5 minute read
TOFFEE DULLAPHAN’S TRIFECTA OF ASIAN-FUSION CUISINE
PHOTO BY KAREN DAY
By Pamela Kleibrink Thompson
Eagle, Idaho is often looked upon as the Plan B of Boise, as far as great food is concerned, and the citizens of this expansive hamlet are just fine with this misguided perception—especially since the three sophisticated Asian-fusion restaurants of Toffee Dullaphan and Fon Tavijaroen have developed a loyal cadre of customers. It all started with a small restaurant on Fairview in Meridian. Sa-Wad-Dee, which translates to “hello and goodbye in Thai,” opened in December of 2004. Dullaphan, the active manager of all three restaurants, has been saying hello and goodbye over and over to thousands of customers ever since.
Korean Beef Tacos are a tantalizing blend of marinated beef bulgogi, cabbage, lettuce, and cilantro, dressed with house-made pickled daikon/carrot, spicy gochujang Korean mayo sauce, kimchi, and feta cheese, topped with crispy onions and served in corn tortillas.
PHOTO BY KAREN DAY
Specializing in Thai cuisine, Sa-Wad-Dee is a favorite of my husband and mine. We’ve been dedicated to tasting all the items on the lunch menu bite by bite. One of my favorites is “Salmon in the Jungle,” while my husband is partial to sweet and sour shrimp. “Salmon in the Jungle,” as pictured on the cover of FLAVOR, features a fresh filet, stir-fried with spicy green curry coconut milk sauce, green beans, bell peppers, zucchini, bamboo shoots, carrots, ginger, krachai, basil, galangal, and lemongrass.
Dullaphan and Tavijaroen found great success with Sa-Wad-Dee and decided to focus on the restaurant business full-time. In 2013, they opened Rice in Eagle. Dullaphan explained that the concept was to expand beyond Thai food. “Rice is a commonality in all Asian countries,” she said. “Every country has its own version of rice.” Celebrating its tenth anniversary this year, Rice has been named Best of Boise by the Idaho Press annual awards since 2014, often for best cocktail, best Bloody Mary and best martini—specifically, their Lemon Basil Martini. One of secrets behind their great drinks could be that they make their own bar mix fresh every week. “You can tell the difference!” said Dullaphan.
Ribeye basil with fried egg at Rice.
PHOTO BY KAREN DAY
One of the best sellers at Rice is their salmon pineapple curry, composed of a grilled salmon filet, pineapple, tomatoes, basil, peas, carrots, and bell peppers with a red curry sauce. Some of Dullaphan’s favorites include sea scallops and prawns (sauteed sea scallop and prawn with garlic ginger cilantro sauce, carrot, served over brown rice with almonds); Korean bulgogi beef (marinated sliced tender beef served on a hot plate, with a side of white jasmine or brown rice, kimchi, Korean chili paste, and lettuce); and the local Double R Ranch ribeye topped with fried egg (grilled sliced ribeye steak topped with fried egg served with stir-fried asparagus, onions, bamboo shoots, bell peppers, zucchini, and mushrooms in a basil garlic sauce served with white jasmine or brown rice).
Accolades for top local prizes greet patrons at Rice.
PHOTO BY KAREN DAY
But her favorite is any kind of sushi. “My dad took the family out to eat sushi at least once a month,” Dullaphan recalled. “One of the misconceptions about Thai food is that it has to be super spicy to be good and authentic. I grew up in a family in Bangkok where we didn’t eat much spicy food. I only eat mildly spicy food now so I can enjoy it.”
Alternately, enjoy sautéed sea scallop and prawn with garlic ginger cilantro sauce, Chinese broccoli, and carrot, served over Jasmine and brown rice with pine nuts.
PHOTO BY KAREN DAY
Dullaphan and Tavijaroen expanded their offerings with the opening of Taste in 2019, which Dullaphan described as a restaurant with “no borders.”
Rice offers a variety of fresh dishes, including the Samurai Sushi Roll pictured here.
PHOTO BY KAREN DAY
“It’s a combination of Asian food with modern variations. We combine recipes for whatever tastes good. It’s Asian food with a twist,” she said. Taste fuses Asian dishes with specialties from other countries such as Korean beef tacos (marinated beef bulgogi, cabbage, lettuce, cilantro, house-made pickled daikon/carrot, spicy gochujang Korean mayo sauce, kimchi, feta cheese, topped with crispy onions and served in corn tortillas) or spicy shrimp green curry flatbread (shrimp, basil, bell pepper, jalapeno, green beans, and mozzarella blended cheese topped with Parmesan cheese).
Sa-Wad-Dee’s Larb Ground Pork Salad features a Thai lemon-lime vinaigrette, rice powder, onion, mint leaves, tomatoes, cucumber, served on a bed of lettuce.
PHOTO BY KAREN DAY
“I love to eat and I love to cook,” Dullaphan said. She first learned to cook when she was in fourth grade. Her parents owned a restaurant in Thailand when she was in high school. Her first job in America was at Taco Bell while obtaining her master’s degree in marketing and international business from Missouri State University. Tavijaroen has a master’s degree in marketing communication from Emerson College in Massachusetts.
PHOTO BY KAREN DAY
Dullaphan attributes her strong work ethic to values instilled by her father. “My dad trained me well,” she said. Some of the things Dullaphan loves most about Idaho are its “nice people.”
“It is clean, safe and beautiful with mountains, lakes, everything that makes my life enjoyable.I love it,” she said.
The seasonally herbaceous Chiang Mai Martini is a blend of fresh mint and basil leaves, lemon juice, St. Germaine liqueur, and Ketel One vodka.
PHOTO BY KAREN DAY
Dullaphan advised those interested in the restaurant business “be open minded. Listen to the customer. And have passion and patience. You can learn from everyone.”
PHOTO BY KAREN DAY
Dullaphan and Tavijaroen are grateful for their success. “We want to thank our long-time customers. To thank everyone for all your comments and feedback, which helped us grow and become better. We also want to thank our staff who have worked so hard for Rice, especially Major Ludwig and Dusty Guthmillet. They started Rice with us ten years ago,” she said.
Short Rib Kao Soi, offered by Taste, highlights slow-braised bone-in short ribs in a spicy curry sauce, topped with crispy egg noodle, fried shallots, green onions and cilantro.
PHOTO BY KAREN DAY
It may take my husband and myself ten more years to get through the vast array of dishes at Rice, Taste and Sa-Wad-Dee—but have no doubt, Dullphan’s Asian-fusion cuisine has expanded the borders of great food throughout the Treasure Valley.
