DINING IN THE HIGH LONESOME

The headwaters of the Salmon River, Redfish Lake stretches 4.5 miles long and is named for the sockeye salmon that once returned from the Pacific Ocean in such vast quantities that the water gleamed red. PHOTO BY KAREN DAY

By Dana DuGan

At 6,253 feet, Stanley, Idaho is one high town, surrounded by more than 1,000 miles of untouched wilderness. Living in, or even visiting, this tiny burg is considered roughing it for myriad reasons. The roads are often closed due to avalanches, snow, or fire. A multitude of visitors pass through during the summer months. They might be camping or fishing, attending the Sawtooth Gathering music festival, floating the Salmon, or heading to Redfish Lake, Sun Valley, or Challis. The population hovers at around 100 hardy folks. But thanks to some entrepreneurs, it’s a tiny food paradise.

Owned and operated for the past 20 years by Tim and Becky Cron, the Stanley Baking Co. is a much beloved café with hearty daytime repast. From mid-May through October, the log cabin buzzes with activity. “Someone’s showing up at zero dark thirty to roll the dough,” Tim Cron said.

With little kitchen experience, Becky Cron learned all the baking from another baker. “Now, we have a dozen different baked goods a day along with items from the original menu like Mexican Migas, oatmeal and sourdough pancakes, biscuits and gravy,” Cron continued. “By the second year I was in the kitchen, line cooking for maybe ten years.”

The simple menu morphed after a few years as Becky became more health conscious. Cron said it’s labor intensive because everything is made from scratch but satisfying. “That’s why customers come back. They know us.”

Stanley Baking Co., famed for mountain-size breakfasts and fresh-baked pastries in the town of 82 permanent residents that attracts thousands of tourists all summer.

PHOTO COURTESY OF STANLEY BAKING CO.

The couple moved up to Stanley from Ketchum for the quality of life. “What drew us here was the cool mountain town with amazing scenery, rivers and mountains. It has a vibe with young, active, mountain people. People want to take advantage of all of that,” he said. “Hopefully, they also want to work hard too. We have a happy staff, and that’s an important part of hospitality. And a well-done espresso—that’s our thing.”

Helping with that “thing” is manager Gina Braden, who oversees a staff of nearly 40. “She’s able to multitask and be a leader of the front of the house team,” Cron said. Their food is both locally sourced and via produce companies in Boise.

In 2009, along with Becky’s sister, Kelli Kerns, the couple bought the Sawtooth Hotel, another log gem in Stanley. Built in 1931, and in need of repairs, they lived and played there for a few years while renovating. Still feeling entirely authentic, the hotel accommodates a cozy dining room, six guest rooms, and three cabins for rent, plus employee housing. On Friday nights in the season, there’s live music. One can catch Tim Cron himself sitting in with the band, the Pesky Grapeseeds.

“Becky had the vision,” Cron said of renovating and reopening the hotel. The view of the Sawtooth Mountains is unsurpassable.

Visitors can enjoy the outside deck and view of the Sawtooth Mountains at the Sawtooth Hotel.

PHOTO BY KAREN DAY

In the kitchen, Gabe Feuer is the head chef, along with Jessie Rouse. Gabe, who had worked in Los Angeles and had some connection to Sun Valley, created what Cron called a high-quality menu with popular dishes such as pork schnitzel, braised prime brisket, vegetable lasagna and a daily fish special.

“It’s such a fortunate situation,” Cron said. “We love what we do; to live in this great place and employ a great team.”

Down the road a piece at the Redfish Lodge, the lake season attracts daytime visitors, overnighters, campers, weddings, and more. Popular with day trippers, there’s a casual grill outside, with such lunch treats as pulled pork sandwiches and fish tacos. Inside the Lodge is the rustic dining room, Limbert’s, named to honor Robert Limbert, who built the original lodge in 1929 on 16 acres of leased public land.

“We aim to keep his authentic, rustic vision alive,” said Jeff Clegg, who with his wife, Audra, manages the lodge. She is also the daughter of the owners—Arlen and Derrel Crouch, from Jerome.

The Cleggs and the dining room’s Executive Chef Jake Johnson are committed to as much local farm-to-table concept as possible. Everything is made from scratch, Clegg said. Co-Chef TJ Degman handles the catering and is the “magic behind the preparation and plating for the dining room.”

A dinner at Limbert’s with an exquisite view of Redfish Lake.

PHOTO COURTESY OF REDFISH LAKE LODGE

The operators also handle the food at the High Country Inn in Stanley during the winter months.

Clegg described Limbert’s cuisine as “true Idaho brand of comfort food, with a focus on Northwest items such as salmon, trout and wild game.”

The wine list features many wines from the Pacific Northwest. They also serve a deservedly popular breakfast with healthy fruit and house-baked granola, grilled Idaho trout, and chorizo. This summer, look for lunch inside the lodge too. And live music, outside on the lawn, entertains throughout the summer.

“We’ve done a lot over the years,” Clegg said. “For lodging, everything’s been upgraded, and we added seven new units and stand-alone cabins. Last year we did a 100 percent renovation of the kitchen, from foundation to exhaust systems, employee housing, the front lobby, bar, bathrooms, and infrastructure.”

Still charmingly Idaho, these three log buildings with spectacular settings have existed for generations. With upgrades to their dining, the Stanley Baking Co., Sawtooth Hotel, and Limbert’s are creating a healthy and sustainable reality in the hard-to-reach—but oh, so worth it—area.