4 minute read
CHEF GARY KUCY
Glorious weather and lake access add to the charm of Rupert’s in McCall. PHOTO COURTESY OF SAMANTHA SAIS PHOTOGRAPHY
World Class Chef, Small Town Treasure
By April Thomas Whitney
Balance. It’s something that all chefs aspire to achieve with their flavors, and something few of them are able to create in their personal lives. Somehow, in a small mountain town in central Idaho, a celebrated chef has managed to master both. Gary Kucy’s journey as a chef has taken him all over the world— through high profile kitchens to tv shows and celebrity events. He’s been on the cutting edge of the culinary scene and earned accolades as a James Beard Award semi-finalist in 2013.
Kucy has been at the helm of Rupert’s restaurant in the historic, lakefront Hotel McCall for 14 years now. He said that a unique combination of community and creative freedom allowed him to hit his stride here—as a chef and a human.
“I try to cook food that people can relate to. Simple, fresh, flavor-forward, approachable, but with an adventurous spin,” said Kucy, who has loved big flavors his whole life. He grew up in the southwest and picked up an appreciation for all types of ethnic foods during his lifelong culinary career. Rupert’s restaurant in McCall features classic, contemporary American cuisine, a delightfully ambiguous concept that allows Kucy and his team to express their creativity.
Kucy works closely with his purveyors to source the freshest local ingredients he can find. These relationships have led to some of his most popular menu items, which include elk meatloaf and yak momos. Rupert’s regulars keep a keen eye on the daily specials, and Rupert’s hosts “Thai Night” every Thursday, which is a huge hit in a town with a limited variety of ethnic restaurants.
“The Carey family [owners of Hotel McCall and Rupert’s] has been generous in letting me do what I want to do and not put many restrictions or barriers on how I cook, what I cook, how I operate the kitchen,” Kucy said. That generosity has opened the door for everything from ramen and grilled cheese pop-up events to a robust series of wine dinners. Kucy said this allows him and his team to flex their culinary muscles and “do something a little more refined, a little more unique and fresh and maybe something that doesn’t fit on the regular seasonal menu but can showcase fresh or unusual ingredients.”
In a place like McCall, it’s tough to put things like long bone buffalo tomahawk steaks on a regular menu, but they can make an appealing course for a wine pairing. “It gives my staff something to aspire to—they get to see new techniques, new products, things like caviar or foie gras that we don’t use every day,” he said.
Mentoring and supporting his kitchen staff is a high priority for Kucy, even with the high school students who start out as dishwashers. ”If they’re showing initiative, I’ll invest in them. People who are passionate get me excited,” Kucy said. So does providing a unique dining experience for local students. Rupert’s offers special homecoming and prom menus, allowing rural kids to have what is often their first fine dining experience—with a three-course meal priced at just $55 per couple, tax and tip included.
“I wanted to be in a place where I could be part of the community and contribute to the community and not just have a flagship restaurant,” 54-year-old Kucy said. “I really love what I do. I love cooking. I love eating. I’ve worked 80+ hours a week and I’m not interested in that anymore. If I can’t ski or play hockey or coach mountain biking, it’s not worth it to me.”