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62 Gifts for Cookss P . 19 9

BEST EVER BRISKET P . 11 1 0

Easiest Xmas Cookies

JAMï&#x161;ºFILLED DONUTS P. 107

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B O N A P P É T I T ‒ V O L U M E 6 2 N U M B E R 11

dec- an H O L I DAY

S TA RT E R S

BA KITCHEN

C O LU M N S

19 GIFT GUIDE

45 BA’S BEST

12 R.S.V.P.

Got a pencil handy? We share the goodies you’ll want to give (and get!) this year, from an A+ nonstick skillet to showstopping serving platters. Plus tips on how to put them to use on the regular.

The ultimate monkey bread is all about buttery brioche. BY CLAIRE SAFFITZ

Reader requests and a vintage hot mulled ale recipe from the Bon Appétit archive.

48 DINNER TONIGHT

68 NOTES FROM MY TEST KITCHEN

Cacio e pepe polenta, ten-minute scallops, and more weeknight meals from BA’s food director.

At the peak of indulgence season, a simple curry soup gives our bodies a break.

BY CARLA LALLI MUSIC

BY YOTAM OT TOLENGHI

56 BASICALLY

72 CITY GUIDES: NYC

BY CLAIRE SAFFITZ

58 HEALTHYISH Passport? Check. Toothbrush? Check. Homemade plane snacks? Double check. BY ANDY BARAGHANI

63 THE PROJECT Grab some masa and eight of your best friends: We’re having a tamale party! BY RICK MARTINEZ

Our favorite drinking spots in one of America’s best cities for celebrating the holidays.

125 PREP SCHOOL Dry scallops versus wet scallops, the case for blood orange juice, and more.

132 LAST BITE Neil Patrick Harris on bringing back an old family tradition. BY MAXWELL LOSGAR

IN EVERY ISSUE 10 editor’s letter 130 recipe index 130 sourcebook

C AV I A R A N D P OTATO CHIPS? YES, PLEASE! P. 10 0

4  D E C E M B E R 2 0 17 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 8

PHOTOGRAPH BY PEDEN + MUNK. FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI. PROP STYLING BY AMY WILSON.

Your life could probably use a little more caramel sauce.

BONAPPETIT.COM

dec- an H O L I DAY

F E AT U R E S

80 SMART COOKIES Leave your tweezers, sprinkles, and specialty equipment in the kitchen drawer. This year’s holiday cookies are no muss, no fuss. BY CLAIRE SAFFITZ

90 MERRY & BRIGHT All-star chef Angela Dimayuga shares recipes from her family’s Filipino-American Christmas feast.

100 A FEW OF OUR FAVORITE THINGS Seventeen chefs from around the country dish on their most cherished traditions, seconds-worthy meals, and fail-safe tips for celebrating the season.

110 BRAISE WORTHY The keys to delicious, fall-apart brisket: an initial sear and, you better believe it, Manischewitz. RECIPE BY TYLER SUNDET

112 THE EATING SEASON What do you get when you send a winter-hating Brooklyn chef to wintertime Montreal? A lot of laughs and a lot of délicieux meals. BY TYLER KORD

ON THE COVER

Frosted MaltChocolate Biscuits (for recipe, see p. 88). Photograph by Kelsey McClellan. Food styling by Susan Spungen. Prop styling by Michelle Maguire. Hand lettering by Jen Mussari.

RAISE THE ROOF (SORRY!) THIS CHRISTMAS.

HAVE A QUESTION ABOUT A RECIPE, OR A COMMENT? Email us at askba@bonappetit.com, or contact the editorial offices: Bon Appétit, 1 World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS AND CHANGES OF ADDRESS, call 800-765-9419 (515-243-3273 from outside the U.S.A.) or email subscriptions@bonappetit.com. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.

PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU

P. 9 0

“

NANA CHALLENGES YO U T O A B A K E  O F F. GO!

Editor in Chief

Chief Business Officer

ADAM RAPOPORT

CRAIG KOSTELIC

Deputy Editor ANDREW KNOWLTON Food Director CARLA LALLI MUSIC Digital Director CAREY POLIS Director of Editorial Operations JENNY HAIGHT Senior Projects Editor JULIA KRAMER Senior Editor MERYL ROTHSTEIN Assistant Editor NIKITA RICHARDSON Contributing Editorial Assistant ASHLEY MASON

“

Editor at Large CHRISTINE MUHLKE Design Director KRISTIN EDDINGTON Senior Designer ALAINA SULLIVAN Designer ROSIE NABEREZNY Assistant to the Creative Director CAROLINA MESARINA Senior Visuals Editor ELIZABETH JAIME Associate Visuals Editor EMILY EISEN Staff Photographer ALEX LAU Visuals Assistant LAURA MURRAY Recipe Editor LIESEL DAVIS Senior Food Editors ANDY BARAGHANI, RICK MARTINEZ, CHRIS MOROCCO, CLAIRE SAFFITZ Test Kitchen Manager BRAD LEONE Contributing Assistant Food Editor AMELIA RAMPE Production Director CRISTINA MARTINEZ Design Production Associate KATE FENOGLIO

“CAN I CHALLENGE HER TO A WHISKEY DRINKOFF INSTEAD?”

Associate Managing Editor FAYE CHIU MOSLEY Copy Director GREG ROBERTSON Copy Managers BRIAN CARROLL, HEIDI JACOBS Research Director SUSAN SEDMAN Research Managers BRYNA JEANMARIE, CHRISTINE PENBERTHY Special Projects Associate LILLI SHERMAN Entertainment Associate MAXWELL LOSGAR Editorial Business Assistant SAMANTHA SIEGFRIED Assistant to the Editor in Chief RYAN WALKERHARTSHORN

Digital General Manager ERIC GILLIN Senior Web Editors ALEX BEGGS, AMANDA SHAPIRO, AMIEL STANEK Social Media Manager RACHEL KARTEN Associate Web Editors JULIA BLACK, ALYSE WHITNEY Associate Social Media Manager EMILY SCHULTZ Assistant Web Editor ALEX DELANY Digital Recipe Editor JILL BAUGHMAN Editorial Web Assistants ALIZA BARBANEL, EMMA WARTZMAN Product Manager BRENDAN BRYANT E-commerce Editor ELAHEH NOZARI Software Engineers JULIE BUSCH, JUAN MIGUEL JAVIER, CHRISTOPHER LEBRON, ALAN SIEGLER Associate Analytics Director BILAL SHAIKH Associate Audience Development Director ERIKA OWEN Contributors BROOKS HEADLEY, REBECCA JURKEVICH, YOTAM OTTOLENGHI, ALISON ROMAN, MARISSA A. ROSS, BEN SCHOTT; JIM SCHUESSLER (TABLET) Communications Director, Food Innovation Group MOLLY PACALA

Vice President, Revenue JORDANA PRANSKY Vice President, Marketing BREE M CKENNEY Vice President, Finance & Business Development BARBRA PERLSTEIN

“KRUMKAKES! A

ADVERTISING NEW YORK N O R W E G I A N WA F F L E Executive Account Director JEANNIE LIVESAY C O O K I E T H AT YO U Executive Account Director MELISSA GOOLNICK Executive Account Director FRANCESCA COIA ROLL AND FILL WITH Senior Account Director EMILY HARRIS WHIPPED CREAM Senior Director, Sales Operations MARY BETH DWYER A N D JA M .” Manager, Sales Operations ISABEL KIERENCEW Digital Account Manager SEAN WALTER Associate Account Manager JENA JOHANSEN, Sales Planners HEATHER DRING, KAITLYN MARLEY, LENA PERLMUTTER Associate Business Managers JACQUI SNYDER, JESSICA REINHARDT Executive Assistant to Chief Business Officer MADELINE CURRY

Sales Associates SAMANTHA BENEDICT, BRIDGET KEHOE HAYES, CHELSEA HORHN, SAMANTHA PINTO BRAND MARKETING Executive Director, Marketing HAYLEY RUSSMAN Director, Marketing DINA BIBLARZ Director, Marketing CHRISTIN D E MARIA Director, Marketing TARA MELVIN Director, Marketplace Strategy BRITTANY BAKACS Associate Directors, Marketing NINA BOLKA, MARION BREWER, TOM HEISS, ELANA KORN Managers, Marketing JACKIE ALABASTRO, NATALIE MERIN Marketing Associates MARYBETH LAWRENCE, OLIVIA MARDER Research & Insights Analyst SHARY TCHATCHOUANG Associate Director, Experiences JENNIFER MILLS CREATIVE SERVICES Director, Creative Strategy & Operations CHARLES RUNNETTE Art Director PHUONG NGUYEN Senior Designer CORINNE VIANA Designers ELENA SCOTT, STEPHANIE STANLEY Senior Producer JULIE SULLIVAN Producer JESSICA MAZELON Copywriter SARAH M CLELLAN Executive Chef MARY NOLAN BRANCH OFFICES West Coast MELISSA LEE, SENIOR ACCOUNT DIRECTOR Midwest JENNA ERNSTER, SENIOR ACCOUNT DIRECTOR Midwest PAMELA QUANDT, EXECUTIVE ACCOUNT DIRECTOR Southeast PETER ZUCKERMAN, ZMEDIA, INC. Southwest LEWIS STAFFORD COMPANY Hawaii LOREN MALENCHEK, MALENCHEK & ASSOCIATES

“ M O L ASS E S S P I C E C O O K I E S  W H AT M O R E D O YO U N E E D ? A N D G R A N DM A CAN MAKE A PITCHER OF COQUITO!”

Artistic Director ANNA WINTOUR PUBLISHED BY CONDÉ NAST

“A N O T  T O O  SW E E T, R I C H C H O C O L AT E C A K E N E V E R FA I LS . WITH FRESH WHIPPED C R E A M . D U H .”

Chairman Emeritus S.I. NEWHOUSE, JR. President & Chief Executive Officer ROBERT A. SAUERBERG, JR. Chief Financial Officer DAVID E. GEITHNER Chief Business Officer, President of Revenue JAMES M. NORTON EVP–Chief Digital Officer FRED SANTARPIA Chief Human Resources Officer JOANN MURRAY Chief Communications Officer CAMERON R. BLANCHARD Chief Marketing Officer PAMELA DRUCKER MANN Chief Technology Officer EDWARD CUDAHY EVP–Consumer Marketing MONICA RAY Chief Experience Officer JOSH STINCHCOMB Chief Revenue Officer, Industry Sales, Condé Nast LISA VALENTINO SVP–Financial Planning & Analysis SUZANNE REINHARDT SVP–Ad Products & Monetization DAVID ADAMS SVP–Licensing CATHY HOFFMAN GLOSSER SVP–Research & Analytics STEPHANIE FRIED SVP–Digital Operations LARRY BAACH SVP–Human Resources REBECCA SACHS General Manager–Digital MATTHEW STARKER Head Creative Director RAÚL MARTINEZ CONDÉ NAST ENTERTAINMENT

President DAWN OSTROFF EVP/General Manager–Digital Video JOY MARCUS , EVP–Chief Operating Officer SAHAR ELHABASHI EVP–Motion Pictures JEREMY STECKLER EVP–Alternative TV JOE L ABRACIO, EVP–CNÉ Studios AL EDGINGTON SVP–Marketing & Partner Management TEAL NEWLAND CONDÉ NAST INTERNATIONAL

Chairman & Chief Executive JONATHAN NEWHOUSE President WOLFGANG BLAU Condé Nast is a global media company producing premium content for more than 263 million consumers in 30 markets. WWW.CONDENAST.COM WWW.CONDENASTINTERNATIONAL.COM

8  D E C E M B E R 2 0 17 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 8

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editor’s letter

The big question: Have they canceled school yet ?

Marlon and I went to bed wondering the same thing: Would this be a real snowstorm or just a false alarm? One for the record books or merely a dusting on the sidewalks of New York City? Of course, in this age of preemptive flight cancellations and severe-weather contingency plans, Marlon slept easy knowing that school had already been canceled. I wondered if I’d be at my desk or shoveling snow. But at 6:47 a.m., when my alarm bleeped, I didn’t even have to glance outside—I could already tell. Today was legit. When it snows hard in New York, everything slows down. The snow itself, blanketing the cityscape, acts as insulation, absorbing the horns, the sirens, the guy on the corner yelling about who knows what. On top of that, the nearly 2 million daily commuters who pour into Manhattan stay home. But what to do all day with a rambunctious nine-year-old boy? In a city devoid of any real hills (no sledding!), I figured we’d do what we normally do—go eat. I got on the phone with Marlon’s uncle, my brother Andy, and we arranged to meet in the West Village at Joseph Leonard, which, blessedly, was open for business. I wouldn’t say it’s the most kid-appropriate spot—it’s more bar than restaurant. But you know who loves a bar? Kids. We pushed open the old wooden door and kicked the snow off our boots. It felt like we had stumbled into a secret party, and Marlon’s face immediately lit up. Half of the West Village seemed to be piled in there, a bunch of grown-ups wearing silly grins,

like kids playing hooky. It was as if we were all getting away with something and had agreed to not tell on each other. The three of us snagged the corner of the bar, also known as the best seats in the house. Bartender! A Shirley Temple for my friend here! And a couple of pilsners for us old guys. Marlon ordered a cheeseburger and fries, while we got a couple of fried chicken sandwiches—tender thigh meat enrobed in a deep-brown, craggy crust on a properly squishy bun, with some house-made pickles and freshly fried potato chips on the side. Another round, barkeep! At some point, Marlon, horsing around, literally fell off his barstool. Bread pudding followed. And Daniel, the general manager, shared a photo of his nine-year-old daughter, who also loves soccer. Marlon demurred at the suggestion that they meet. Now, I’m not saying we should all take our kids to a bar. But as the holidays (and the snowy season) roll around, consider that not everything you do needs to be a tried-and-true tradition. Why not go off script now and then? Add a Filipino favorite to your holiday table (page 90), blow off the family and jet to Montreal for the weekend (page 112), usher in the new year with a bag of potato chips and a tin of caviar (page 102). The fact is, so often it’s those unexpected food-and-drink moments that you will remember most—whether you’re not quite ten or, let’s just say, considerably older. A DA M R A P O P O R T

Editor in Chief 1 0  D E C E M B E R 2 0 17 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 8

PHOTOGRAPH BY VIVIENNE GUCWA. FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.

S N O W D AY I N T H E C I T Y

r.s.v.p. Want us to get a restaurant recipe for you? Email us at rsvp@bonappetit.com*

DEAR BON APPÉTIT, THE HIGHLIGHT OF MY BIRTHDAY AT GIADA AT THE CROMWELL IN LAS VEGAS WAS THE JUSTFRIED ZEPPOLE AND CHOCOLATE SAUCE. T I N A M O N TOYA , Scot t sdale, A Z

ORANGE ZEPPOLE The dough for these Italian doughnuts is essentially pâte à choux, the same used for éclairs and cream puffs. Make sure to beat well after each egg for the right consistency. [Editor’s note: Orange Zeppole are no longer on the menu, but a new version is.] M A K E S A B O U T 22

1 cup sugar, divided Finely grated zest of 3 oranges, divided 6 Tbsp. unsalted butter ½ tsp. kosher salt 1 cup all-purpose flour 3 large eggs Vegetable oil (for frying; about 7 cups) Warm chocolate sauce (for serving) S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T :

A deep-fry

thermometer Combine ¾ cup sugar and 1½ tsp. orange zest in a small bowl and use

Doughnuts Done Right Doughnut party, anyone? Double the recipe above and serve them with a spread of toppings and sauces. Check out what these restaurants are doing with fried dough for some sweet inspiration. 12  D E C E M B E R 2 0 17 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 8

your fingers to work zest into sugar. Transfer to a plate; set aside. Bring butter, salt, remaining ¼ cup sugar, and ½ cup water to a simmer in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat (make sure butter is melted). Add flour and vigorously mix with a wooden spoon until dough comes together in a single mass, about 30 seconds. Transfer to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment; let cool slightly. (Or you can use a large bowl, a wooden spoon, and arm muscles instead). With mixer on medium-low speed, add eggs one at a time. Dough will look wet and clumpy when you first add an egg, but continue to beat until dough is smooth before adding the next egg. After third egg is added, beat until dough is glossy and slowly slips off the

paddle when lifted. Add remaining orange zest and beat to combine. Pour oil into a large saucepan to come halfway up the sides (about 2"). Fit with thermometer and heat over medium-high until thermometer registers 350°. Working in batches, scoop out rounded tablespoonfuls of dough (a small ice cream scoop works well) and gently nudge balls of dough into oil. Fry zeppole, submerging and turning with a slotted spoon, until evenly golden brown, about 4 minutes. Transfer to plate with reserved orange sugar and roll to coat. Place on a wire rack set inside a rimmed baking sheet. Serve zeppole with chocolate sauce. D O A H E A D : Dough can be made 1 day ahead. Cover tightly and chill. Bring to room temperature before frying.

1 Sub lemon zest and crushed fennel seeds for the orange like Brooklyn’s Rider and pair with a side of crème fraîche.

3 Take a note from Supper in San Antonio, where the churros are tossed in cinnamon sugar, then dipped in warm dulce de leche.

2 At Morcilla in Pittsburgh, chef Justin Severino glazes his doughnuts in Spanish quince paste and tops them with almonds.

4 Chef Chris Gould of Tipo in Portland, ME, dusts his zeppole in powdered sugar and lemon zest and places them on whipped ricotta.

* S U B M I SS I O N S B E C O M E T H E P R O P E R T Y O F B O N A P P É T I T.

r.s.v.p. DEAR BON APPÉTIT, WE LEFT WATERFRONT WINES IN KELOWNA, BRITISH COLUMBIA, CRAVING THE CAULIFLOWER SOUP TOPPED WITH CRUNCHY HAZELNUTS AND BACON. A S H L E Y F R A M E , Wes t Ke low n a, B ri tish Columbia

Vintage BA: Hot Mulled Ale

CAULIFLOWER SOUP WITH HAZELNUTS AND BACON Creamy puréed soups always benefit from having crunchy things sprinkled on top.

6 S E RV I N G S

½ cup blanched hazelnuts 1 medium head of cauliflower (about 2 lb.), cut into small florets 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 4 slices thick-cut bacon (about 4 oz.) 1 small fennel bulb, chopped 1 small onion, chopped 1 garlic clove, finely chopped ⅓ cup dry white wine or water 6 cups low-sodium chicken broth ¾ cup heavy cream 2 bay leaves Preheat oven to 350°. Toast hazelnuts on a rimmed baking sheet, tossing occasionally, until golden brown, 10–12 minutes. Let cool, then coarsely chop. While the nuts are cooling, increase oven to 400°. Toss cauliflower and 2 Tbsp. oil on another baking sheet;

season with salt and pepper. Roast, tossing once, until florets are browned all over and tender, 30–35 minutes. Meanwhile, cut bacon crosswise into ½" pieces. Heat a heavy pot over medium and cook bacon, stirring occasionally, until browned and crisp, 10–12 minutes. Transfer to paper towels. Cook fennel, onion, and garlic in drippings in pot, stirring occasionally, until onion and fennel are very soft, 8–10 minutes. Add wine and cook until mostly evaporated, about 5 minutes. Add roasted cauliflower, broth, cream, and bay leaves; season with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer until cauliflower is very tender, 20–25 minutes. Pluck out bay leaves; discard. Let mixture cool slightly. Working in batches, purée cauliflower mixture until very smooth. Strain back into pot; season with salt and pepper. Just before serving, ladle soup into bowls; top with bacon and nuts and drizzle with oil. D O A H E A D : Soup can be made 3 days ahead. Let cool; cover and chill soup and bacon separately.

THE CHEF SAYS

“Roasting cauliflower mellows its cabbagey flavors and brings out its nuttiness. It enhances its natural sugars and adds depth to the soup, too.” MARK FILATOW , chef,

Waterfront Wines

Inspired by our story on chefs’ holiday traditions (p. 100), we went back to our December1964 issue. In it we endorsed some strange ideas, namely, “heating a poker in the fire… then slowly immersing it in a mug of ale.” Here’s how it’s done, theoretically.

1 Start with a few bottles of British or German ale, which “are less carbonated and better suited to mulling.” 2 Place a poker in the fireplace (naturally) and fill mugs with beer. For a sweet sipper, add a teaspoon of honey. 3 When the poker is white-hot, plunge it into the center of the mug. “This causes a fine sizzling sound, and a pleasant nutty smell.” 4 Once the beer is hot (after a few seconds), remove the poker from the cup and finish with grated nutmeg. “Take the first sip, fast.” 5 Why a mug and not a saucepan? “The foam on the top is almost crusty and has an unforgettable flavor found only in ale mulled this way.” Um, okay…

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DEAR BON APPÉTIT, WE WERE IN MIAMI BEACH VISITING FAMILY, AND MY NIECE SUGGESTED WE GO TO THE BAZAAR. THE SALMON EN PAPILLOTE WAS FANTASTIC. S H E L L I E RU I Z , Pensacola, FL

SLOWROASTED SALMON IN PARCHMENT PAPER Here’s the one-sheet on cooking in parchment packets: The method creates moist, even heat, which is ideal for fish. It’s hands-off, and the parcels can be assembled ahead of time. If it’s new to you and sounds intimidating, reread the previous two sentences until confidence is instilled.

4 S E RV I N G S

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling 1 onion, thinly sliced 1 bay leaf Kosher salt 1 cup Castelvetrano olives, pitted, quartered ¼ cup drained capers ¼ cup raisins 1 6  D E C E M B E R 2 0 17 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 8

6 Tbsp. dark rum 2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice 4 6-oz. salmon fillets, patted dry Freshly ground black pepper 4 Tbsp. coarsely chopped cilantro, divided, plus more for serving Lime wedges (for serving) Preheat oven to 275◦. Heat 2 Tbsp. oil in a large skillet over medium-low. Add onion, bay leaf, and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring often and reducing heat if onion is browning too fast, until onion is golden brown, 25–30 minutes. Add olives, capers, raisins, and 2 Tbsp. water to skillet and cook, stirring occasionally, until olives are softened, about 4 minutes. Add rum and cook until liquid is evaporated, about 5 minutes. Remove skillet from heat and stir in lime

juice and 1 Tbsp. water. If needed, add a splash or two more of water so mixture is saucy; season with salt. Season salmon with salt and pepper. Cut four large sheets of parchment paper. Working with 1 sheet, spoon one-quarter of sauce onto the center of paper; scatter 1 Tbsp. cilantro over. Create a well in the sauce the size of a salmon fillet and place fish in well; drizzle with oil. Gather edges of parchment up and over salmon and tie tightly closed with kitchen twine. Set on a rimmed baking sheet. Repeat with remaining parchment paper, sauce, salmon, and 3 Tbsp. cilantro. Bake packets until salmon is cooked through, 20–22 minutes for medium (go 2 minutes longer for well-done). Remove from oven and let salmon steam in packets 2 minutes. Unwrap and top with more cilantro. Serve with lime wedges for squeezing over. D O A H E A D : Sauce can be made 2 days ahead. Let cool; cover and chill. Before using, add water to loosen if it looks tight.

ILLUSTRATIONS: LARRY JOST (ZEPPOLE, SOUP, SALMON); CLAIRE MCCRACKEN (DOUGHNUT, ALE, CAULIFLOWER). FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.

r.s.v.p.

starters Magnetic knife rack, $99; wakethetree.com

PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU. TEXT BY NIKITA RICHARDSON, JENNY ROSENSTRACH, CHRIS MOROCCO, AND CHRISTINE MUHLKE. PROP STYLING BY ALEX SILVA.

Holiday Gift Guide Edition!

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Gifts We Love (and How to Use Them) We all want to give presents that will be appreciated, right? We’ve rounded up pretty yet practical objects that will get a workout

1—Bob Kramer 8" carbon steel chef’s knife, $300; surlatable.com 2—Bob Kramer carbon steel paring knife, $150; surlatable.com 3—Shun dual core butchery knife, $260; williams-sonoma.com 4—Miyabi stainless-steel and birchwood slicing knife, $300; surlatable.com

Mar ket E di t or M o n i c a K he m s u ro v

D E C E M B E R 2 0 17 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 8  1 9

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G I F T G U I D E

You Gotta Give Props

Sure, good food should speak for itself, but do you ever wonder why, say, that salmon looks so much more appealing in magazines or on your Instagram feed? Chances are it’s because the platter it’s served on looks like one of these—clean, bold, and special enough to be gift-worthy.

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1—Brickett Davda Collection extra large tray, $325; marchsf.com 2—Frama Aj Otto large stoneware plate, $80 for two; qlty-life.com 3—Pink marbled cork tray, $180; melanie abrantes.bigcartel.com 4—Hay medium chopping board in coral, $45; store.moma.org 5—Charcuterie board, $80; facturegoods.com 6—Reiko Kaneko for SCP glazed terra cotta round platter, $130; thefutureperfect.com 7—Marble and brass serving board, $80; shopburkelman.com 8—Hay medium chopping board in yellow, $29; store.moma.org

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PHOTOGRAPH BY TED CAVANAUGH

G I F T

SERVE IT UP

G U I D E 3 12

NEON BEECHWOOD + RUBBER MIXING SPOONS, SET OF THREE, $32

Humble, hardworking cooking spoons don’t get the love they deserve. This set has comfortable handles and wide-set cups, so it’s easy to make waves in big pots of ragù to keep the bottom scorch-free. willfulgoods.com

Make stirring coffee or spooning sugar seem glamorous with these small forged-brass spoons from Facture Goods. Over time they’ll develop a cool natural patina that’ll make them even more attractive. facturegoods.com

This brass-and-steel pie server from metalworker Erica Moody is sturdy, sure, but let’s face it, sometimes we get obsessed with things just because they’re really, really pretty. For the baker who has everything. eatingtools.com

Serve up some Oliver Twist references with this gigantic (it’s five inches across!) naturally dyed white oak spoon, which can easily serve a generous scoop of stew or a helping of savory porridge in just one go. marchsf.com

BLACKCREEK MERCANTILE AND TRADING CO. BLACKLINE COLOSSAL SPOON, $240

PHOTOGRAPHS BY TED CAVANAUGH

BRASS TEA AND MACCHIATO SPOONS, $30 AND $40

ERICA MOODY BRASS & STEEL PIE SERVER, $120

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G I F T

Yes, the Pitcher Matters

G U I D E

You drove three towns over to track down those thick-cut pork chops from your longtime butcher, hit the farmers’ market early to snag the peak-est produce, and spent the better part of the day executing a dinner party menu. Why wouldn’t you make sure every last detail on the table, right down to the water pitcher, is equally well-considered?

1—Kenny Son decagonal brass pitcher, $315; eatingtools.com 2—Nina Nørgaard Studio coffee/tea pitcher, $195; gardeshop.com 3—Clam Lab pointed spout pitcher, $290; spartan-shop.com

4—Bloomingville terra cotta pitcher, $43; allmodern.com 5—Ichendorf tube glass pitcher, $28; barneys.com 6—Flow pitcher in amber & rose, $108; abchome.com

PHOTOGRAPH BY TED CAVANAUGH

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G I F T Cherr y cavarola board and pin, $75; artisanal pastatools.com

G U I D E

COOK LIKE A PRO

Hand Roll Pasta-making equipment that’s crazy elegant

Evan Funke is a master of fresh pasta, but he never relies on a pasta machine. Instead, the chef of Felix in L.A. prefers simple handheld tools. For small textured pastas that can hold a puttanesca or a ragú, he turns to handcarved wooden pasta boards that he first found in Italy. “It goes back to the romantic notion of making pasta [by hand],” Funke says. He uses these cavarola boards to turn out strascinati, a stretched-out orecchiette. Funke drags dough across the patterned surface to make ridges that a machine can’t without robbing the pasta of the tiny air pockets that make it light once cooked. Just don’t get frustrated if you can’t get it right the first—or 41st— time. “Pasta is an animal, and you have to respect the animal,” he says. “There are days when the pasta comes to me effortlessly. But there are days when it spites me.”

2 6  D E C E M B E R 2 0 17 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 8

Would this look good hanging in your kitchen even when you’re not making pasta? Why, yes, it probably would.

PHOTOGRAPH BY TED CAVANAUGH. FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.

b y Ni k i t a R i cha r d s o n

G I F T

IN THE KITCHEN

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If you use salt and pepper as much as we do, you’ll want to keep this minimalist salt cellar and pepper grinder nearby. mjolk.ca

LE CREUSET ROUND DUTCH OVEN, $330

How much can we sing the praises of the Dutch oven? As much as it takes to make sure every cook you love has the braising, breadbaking workhorse. williams-sonoma.com

JOULE SOUS VIDE TOOL, FROM $179

Chefs like sous vide as a way to cook things perfectly (for real!) without much work. This cult-y at-home machine does that and fits in a regular kitchen drawer. chefsteps.com

KISO HINOKI EXTRA LARGE CUT TING BOARD, $240

A giant cutting board (and at 24"x18", this counts) means you can chop all your aromatics and veggies in one place. cuttingboard.com

VICTORIA MORRIS MEDIUM BIRCH COMBED CANISTER, $390

This ridged ceramic storage container is unique, utilitarian, and ideal for storing grains or beans. communedesign.com

MEAT MALLET, $25

Michael Ruhlman modeled this four-sided mallet on an antique. Every time you get chicken Parm or lamb scottadito to an even thinness, you’ll thank him. shop.ruhlman.com

EMMA TEA VACUUM JUG, $119

JAPANESESTYLE WAIST APRON, $36

NAGATANIEN MUSHI NABE, $160

This stainless-steel jug from Danish design duo HolmbäckNordentoft features a built-in filter that stops the tea-steeping process when twisted. No more bitter brew. yliving.com

This half-apron dresses up any hostess outfit. It skews a little Japanese, a little Oaxaca (so on-trend!) and is long enough to catch any spills. tortoisegeneralstore.com

We make no secret of our love for donabe, a Japanese clay pot for braising. That also makes us fans of this specialized version for steaming veg or shellfish. eastforkpottery.com

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY TED CAVANAUGH

NOIDOI PADDLE JAR AND GRINDER, $40 AND $88

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G I F T G U I D E

4 1—Cubisme candle holder, $95; l-objet.com 2—Marble candle holder set, $70; spartan-shop.com 3—001 candle holder, $180; orphanwork.com 4—Gentner Design Eleven candelabrum, $130 each; shophorne.com 5—Peter Karpf Gemini candle holder, $115; theline.com 6—Franc candle holders, $135 each; lostine.com

Fact: The single best way to improve the vibe of a room is with candles. And for that you’re going to want a good-looking set of candlesticks. They are to your table setting what a bottle of Champagne is to any get-together: the easy upgrade, the little hint that something really fun is about to transpire. Here, a few lit standouts.

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PHOTOGRAPH BY TED CAVANAUGH

Everything’s Nicer by Candlelight

HOT + COLD

G I F T G U I D E 8 12

VSBY TRIVET SET, $230

One of our best entertaining moves is setting out a steaming stew or braise and telling everyone to dig in. Well, that’s only possible with a trivet. This set comes with both a large and small trivet for all your tabletop needs. othr.com

The newest, largest member of Yeti’s Rambler family keeps a gallon of beverages (or soup!) at temperature for up to 24 hours using double-wall vacuum insulation. What’s more, it’s virtually indestructible. yeti.com

Of course you can use this electric kettle for tea, but did you know it can boil water for pasta or potatoes when you don’t want to wait for the stove? Heat water in the kettle, then pour it in your pot (you might need a few batches). brevilleusa.com

If you’re one of those people who buys loose tea, first of all, good for you. Second, you’ll want this not-too-delicate ceramic tea strainer sold by BA photographer extraordinaire Nikole Herriott. herriottgrace.com

TEA STRAINER BY SUE PRYKE, $36

PHOTOGRAPHS BY TED CAVANAUGH

RAMBLER ONE GALLON JUG, $130

THE IQ KET TLE, $130

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G I F T G U I D E

11 INCH CARBON STEEL GRIDDLE, $50

I dream of having the prowess of a Waffle House short-order cook. I’m getting kind of close thanks to this nonstick carbon-steel stovetop skillet, which gets ripping hot super fast. Kids want pancakes? I’m father of the year. Wife wants two hard-fried eggs? I got you, dear. I want a crispy smash burger? Pat on the back for me. Without this pan, I’d be half the cook I am. lodgemfg.com ANDREW KNOWLTON

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PHOTOGRAPH BY TED CAVANAUGH

The low sides make it easy for get ting under quesadillas or fish fillets.

G I F T

ON THE TABLE

G U I D E

DARK TOAST STONEWARE TEA CUP, $40

PROJECT 62 COPPER PUNCH BOWL, $20

ALASKA BOWL, $36

A favorite of the Healthyish gang, this mug from ceramist Miro Chun shouldn’t be limited to holding hot drinks: Try using it as a small planter, too. miromadethis.com

Every party gets a little more fun with punch. This copper punch bowl, which has a ladle with a convenient hook attachment, will make any host happy. target.com

Consider this an entertaining bowl—the right size for setting out nuts or dip and attractive enough that guests might compliment it. wilcoxsonbrooklynceramics.com

CERAMIC TEAPOT WITH BLUE LID, $70

MALKA DINA DEW BOWL, $175

POWDER PINK JUG BY SUE PRYKE, $36

Brew loose-leaf tea (we’re into Té Company’s Oriental Beauty oolong) in this handmade crackled ceramic teapot that has slits to strain out leaves. leavesandflowers.com

Side dishes need pretty serving bowls. This one features a spackled design and comes with a curved divot for resting serving utensils. consort-design.com

Use this small matte jug for serving everything from the maple syrup for holiday waffles to the vinaigrette for the inevitable post–New Year’s salads. herriottgrace.com

STELLAR SERVING BOWL, $180

HASAMI PORCELAIN MUG AND LID, $50

COLD WINE COOLER, $193

The medium-size Stellar bowl is just that, with a bright cosmos that’s cast using marbled porcelain. Get it for anyone who could use a salad bowl upgrade. loveadorned.com

With a two-in-one tray that functions as a lid and a coaster, this mug can be set down anywhere as you get your day started or kept warm while you shower. spartan-shop.com

It’s a wine bucket, except you don’t need ice (and it’s sleek). Place the temperatureretaining soapstone vessel in the fridge before opening that bottle of pét-nat. mjolk.ca

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11 12 RIPPLE CHAMPAGNE SAUCERS, $42 FOR TWO

G I F T

For anyone wanting an excuse to open bubbly, consider these festive dishwashersafe(!) coupes. cleverspaces.com

G U I D E

White Negroni R E C I P E

Makes 1 If you like Campari, you’ll like Suze, a bitter French aperitif. Combine 1½ oz. gin (preferably Plymouth), 1½ oz. Lillet Blanc, and ½ oz. Suze liqueur in an oldfashioned glass filled with ice and stir until very cold, about 30 seconds. Garnish with a lemon twist.

As much as I like an end-of-day cocktail, frankly I think half of what I like is a good glass. For me, a glass with heft—like the cutcrystal heavyweights from British designer Richard Brendon, newly available in the U.S.—is what makes that drink feel celebratory. I doubt an after-work White Negroni would feel as restorative in a Solo cup. wolfandbadger.com MERYL ROTHSTEIN

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PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU

DIAMOND DOUBLE OLD FASHIONED GLASS, $115

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G I F T G U I D E

1—Medium Liquid vase, $135; dinosaurdesigns.com 2—AYTM vase, $45; comingsoon newyork.com 3—Cecilie Manz jar vase, $152; mjolk.ca 4—LG diamond pink vase, $250; bzippy andcompany.com

Grown-ups Need Nice Vases

5—KFM medium Soft vase, $525; contextgallery.com 6—Torus vase, $210; rachelsaunders ceramics.com 7—Tall cherry vase, $110; melaniea brantes.bigcartel.com

“Purchase a vase” is probably right behind “dust the blinds” on most of your friends’ priority lists. Which is precisely the reason one would make such a delightful present. Structural and striking and crafted from materials like brass and cherrywood, each of these vases qualifies as something they might not think they need, until they have one, and then can’t believe how much happiness it brings.

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PHOTOGRAPH BY TED CAVANAUGH

kitchen RECIPES

TIPS

MENU IDEAS

S U GA R C OAT

A dusting of sanding sugar around the inside of the pan creates crunch and adds a sparkly finish. PA N P L A N

Baking it in a tube or Bundt pan instead of a cake pan creates more surface area, which leads to better browning.

BA’s Best — Monkey Bread

SLAM DUNK

by CL AIRE SAFFITZ

Who can resist warm monkey bread coated in cinnamon sugar? We improved on the comfort food classic by swapping store-bought biscuit dough for a homemade brioche dough. The result: an entire cake of pillowy pull-apart bites. And that sticky caramel-sauce topping? We pour it over the whole thing after it’s baked for an elegant, smooth finish.

P H OTO G R A P H S BY A L E X L AU

Pour the salted caramel sauce over, or serve it on the side for dipping (turn to page 56 for the recipe).

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k BA’ S B E S T monkey bread

C L A I M T O FA M E First lady Nancy Reagan popularized this cinnamony cake—a recipe she borrowed from Sandy’s Bakery in Los Angeles—in the ’80s when she served the crowdpleaser in her White House Christmas dinner spread.

Monkey Bread No secrets here—the key to the buttery flavor and signature texture of monkey bread is the brioche dough.

8 S E RV I N G S

DOUGH

1 cup (2 sticks) chilled unsalted butter, cut into 1" pieces, plus more for bowl ⅓ cup whole milk 1 ¼-oz. envelope active dry yeast (about 2¼ tsp.) 3 cups (or more) all-purpose flour 3 Tbsp. sugar 1 tsp. kosher salt 4 large eggs, room temperature ASS E M B LY

¾ cup granulated sugar 1 Tbsp. ground cinnamon 6 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted, slightly cooled, plus more for pan Sanding or granulated sugar (for pan) Prepared caramel sauce (for serving) S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T :

A 10" tube pan or

10-cup Bundt pan D O U G H Beat 1 cup butter in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment on medium-low speed until butter is smooth and pliable but still cold, about 1 minute. Scrape into a medium bowl; set aside. Save mixer bowl because you’re going to use it again in a minute (no need to wash). Gently heat milk in a small saucepan over low until warm to the touch but not steaming hot. It should be 110°–115°. Whisk milk and yeast in a small bowl to dissolve yeast, then let sit until foamy, about 5 minutes. Meanwhile, whisk flour, sugar, and salt in reserved mixer bowl to combine. Add yeast mixture and eggs, fit bowl back onto mixer, and beat on low speed with dough hook, gradually increasing mixer speed to medium as dry ingredients are incorporated, until dough comes together around hook. Continue to mix on medium 4 6  D E C E M B E R 2 0 17 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 8

speed until dough is smooth, elastic, and no longer sticking to the sides of the bowl, about 5 minutes. Add more flour by the tablespoonful as needed if dough isn’t pulling away from bowl cleanly. With motor running, gradually add reserved butter about a tablespoonful at a time, waiting until it is absorbed before adding more. This process can take several minutes, so be patient. When you’re done adding the butter, the dough will be extremely smooth, soft, and supple but not sticky. Place dough in a large buttered bowl and cover. Let sit in a warm, draft-free spot until nearly doubled in size, 55–65 minutes. Uncover dough and punch down several times to deflate. Line a 13x9" baking dish with plastic wrap, leaving generous overhang on all sides. Place dough in pan and press into an even layer, working all the way to the sides of the pan. Fold plastic up and over dough, eliminating air pockets between dough and plastic. Chill dough in freezer until firm to the touch, 20–30 minutes. ASS E M B LY Mix granulated sugar and cinnamon in a medium bowl to combine. Lightly brush tube pan with butter. Sprinkle with sanding sugar, tapping out excess; set aside. Remove dough from freezer and peel back plastic. Brush entire surface with melted butter and sprinkle generously with some cinnamon sugar. Shake excess sugar back into bowl, then invert baking pan and turn

out dough onto work surface sugar side down. Remove plastic; discard. Brush other side of dough with butter and sprinkle with more cinnamon sugar. Use a pizza cutter or a chef’s knife to cut dough into a 12x6 grid. Working relatively quickly so dough doesn’t become too soft, separate pieces and, working one at a time, roll lightly between your palms into balls, dusting with more cinnamon sugar as needed to prevent sticking. Place in prepared tube pan as you go. Cover pan with plastic wrap and let sit in a warm, draft-free spot until pieces have swelled to nearly doubled in size, 40–50 minutes. Preheat oven to 350° a little before monkey bread is ready to bake. Remove plastic from pan and bake monkey bread until golden brown, 25–35 minutes. Let cool 10 minutes, then use a small offset spatula to loosen monkey bread from sides of pan. Pull bottom out from pan and use spatula to loosen bread from bottom. Slide bread back into pan; invert onto a plate and remove pan. Place a wire rack over bread and invert right side up onto rack. If using a Bundt pan, just invert directly onto wire rack. Let cool at least 15 minutes before serving. Pour about ½ cup caramel sauce over monkey bread if desired. Serve with more sauce alongside for dipping. D O A H E A D : Dough can be made 1 day ahead. After punching down, pat into plastic-lined pan and chill in refrigerator instead of freezer.

For a step-by-step of how to form the dough into dozens of balls coated in cinnamon sugar, turn to p. 126.

WHY IS IT CALLED MONKEY BREAD? No one knows for sure, but these are the most plausible theories:

FOOD STYLING BY CLAIRE SAFFITZ. ILLUSTRATIONS BY JOE WILSON.

1It’s the term stage and screen star ZaSu Pitts coined in the 1940s for her snackable loaf that the neighborhood kids (little monkeys) couldn’t resist. 2It refers to the way you eat the bread, like a monkey picking at stuff with its fingers. 3The bread resembles the bark on the monkey puzzle tree, a Chilean evergreen. 4When

assembling the loaf you have to “monkey around” with the dough, cutting it and rolling it into balls. Take your pick!

DINNER TONIGHT

Weeknight Warrior Food director Carla Lalli Music devotes hours a day to tasting, talking, and writing about food. After work? She tries to spend as little time as possible cooking

No pressure cooker? Cook it the oldfashioned way.

Polenta Cacio e Pepe Whisk 1 cup polenta (not quick-cooking) and 4 cups water in a pressure cooker to combine. Season with 1 tsp. kosher salt and several grinds of pepper. Bring mixture to a simmer over mediumhigh, whisk again, then seal pressure cooker according to manufacturerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s directions. As soon as cooker hits high pressure, set a timer for 9 minutes.

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When timer goes off, remove cooker from heat and manually release pressure. Carefully open lid and whisk polenta until homogenous and creamy. Whisk 3 Tbsp. unsalted butter into polenta, then gradually add 4 oz. finely grated Pecorino and/or Parmesan, whisking until melted. Taste and season with more salt, if needed, and lots of pepper. Transfer polenta to a wide shallow bowl and top with more Pecorino and a few more grinds of pepper. 4 servings

P H OTO G R A P H S BY A L E X L AU

k DINNER TONIGHT

Red miso is more robust than yellow and won’t get diluted when mixed with the mayo. 2 If you find radishes with good-looking tops still attached, trim, wash, and dry them and dress along with the watercress. C O O K ’S N O T E S

Fast-Track It Build big flavor in a short amount of time by combining a few ready-made sauces Miso- and Mayo-Marinated Short Ribs with Spicy Sauce 4 S E RV I N G S

You can sub thincut pork chops for the shor t ribs or any greens for the watercress.

3 Tbsp. red or yellow miso1 3 Tbsp. mayonnaise 3 Tbsp. (or more) unseasoned rice vinegar, divided 1½ lb. thin cross-cut bone-in short ribs (flanken style) Kosher salt 1 bunch small radishes 2 4 tsp. vegetable oil Sriracha or hot sauce (for serving) 2 cups steamed rice 1 bunch watercress, tough stems removed Stir miso, mayonnaise, and 2 Tbsp. vinegar in a small bowl. Place ribs on a rimmed baking sheet, pat dry, and season lightly with salt. Pour all but 2 Tbsp. miso mixture over ribs; turn to coat. Set remaining miso mixture aside. Thinly slice radishes and toss in a medium bowl with remaining 1 Tbsp. vinegar. Season with salt and toss again. Heat a large heavy skillet, preferably cast iron, over medium-high. When pan is hot, add 2 tsp. oil and swirl to coat. Cook half of ribs without turning until underside is very dark brown and charred in spots, about 2 minutes. Turn ribs and cook until second side is golden brown, 1–2 minutes. Transfer to a plate. Repeat with remaining 2 tsp. oil and remaining ribs. Let rest 5 minutes. Season reserved miso mixture with Sriracha, taste it, and adjust until it’s the right amount of spicy for you. Add more vinegar, if desired. Cut ribs crosswise into 2 or 3 pieces; serve over bowls of rice, topped with watercress and drained radishes and drizzled with spicy sauce.

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k DINNER TONIGHT

The One-Pan, 10-Minute Dinner Juice lemons. Spoon out capers. Heat pan. Cook scallops. Make sauce in same pan. Serve Seared Scallops with Brown Butter and Lemon Pan Sauce 4 S E RV I N G S

3 lemons Small handful of chives 12 large dry1 sea scallops Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper Extra-virgin olive oil or vegetable oil 3 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into pieces 2 tsp. drained capers

Not all scallops are brought to market equal. Dry ones are nonnegotiable in this dish. Turn to Prep School on page 126 to learn more. 2 Congrats: You just made the classic French sauce called Grenobloise, named for the town where someone had the brilliant idea to combine toasty and rich browned butter with fresh lemon juice and salty capers. C O O K ’S N O T E S

Cut 2 lemons in half and squeeze juice into a measuring glass or small bowl; you should have ¼ cup juice. Set aside. Using a paring knife, cut ends off remaining lemon to expose flesh. Upend lemon on a cut end and remove peel and white pith from lemons; discard. Cut between membranes to release segments into bowl with juice; squeeze membranes to get any last drops of juice. Fish out any seeds; set aside. Thinly slice chives and place in a small bowl; set aside. Pull side muscle off scallops, if needed; pat dry. Season lightly on both sides with salt and pepper. Heat a large skillet, preferably stainless steel, over mediumhigh. Pour in oil to lightly coat surface (2–3 Tbsp.); heat until it shimmers and you see first wisps of smoke. Swiftly

place scallops into skillet, flat side down, and cook without touching, tossing, or fussing until underside is deep golden brown, 3–4 minutes. Use a thin spatula or tongs to gently turn over; if they resist, cook another 30 seconds and try again. Cook on second side until flesh at top and bottom looks opaque but there is still a faintly translucent strip in the middle, 1–2 minutes, depending on size. Transfer scallops to a plate. Pour off any oil in skillet and set over medium heat. Add butter and cook, swirling, until butter foams, then browns, about 2 minutes. Add reserved lemon juice and segments; energetically stir and swirl pan to emulsify sauce. Mix in capers and reserved chives 2 and spoon pan sauce around and over scallops.

k 1

True fact about chicken breasts: They’re sold skin-on and bone-in or skinless and boneless. To get skin-on, boneless, you’ll have to rip out the bones yourself (see left), but it will be worth it so that you can press the chicken flat for quicker cooking.

DINNER TONIGHT

C O O K ’S N O T E S

Lickety Split A roasting trick for weeknight chicken yields juicy meat and golden, crispy skin 12-Minute Saucy Chicken Breasts with Limes 2 S E RV I N G S

2 2 1 1 1

tsp. ground cumin tsp. ground turmeric tsp. paprika tsp. kosher salt, plus more whole skin-on, bone-in chicken breast1 (about 1½ lb.), split 1 Tbsp. olive oil 2 limes, halved Place a 10" cast-iron skillet in oven; preheat oven to 475°. Lay your hands on another heavy skillet or saucepan the same diameter or smaller and tear off an 8" piece of foil; set aside near stove.

Mix cumin, turmeric, paprika, and 1 tsp. salt in a small bowl. Brace yourself: This next step requires some light butchery, but it’s easy. Place chicken skin side down on a cutting board and find the short row of small rib bones near the outer edge of the breast. Grip them with your fingers and pull them off (or use a paring knife or shears). Next: along the center line where the breast was cut in half, there’s a dark, vaguely rectangular bone—it almost looks like an anvil. Sometimes it’s in one piece, or both sides will have a half of it. It doesn’t matter: Grip the bone with your fingers and pull it out, then tease out the strip of flexible cartilage just below it. All done! Now the chicken will lay flat in the pan, which is why it cooks so quickly. Season both sides of chicken with salt, then with all of the spice rub. Remove hot skillet from oven and set over mediumhigh heat. Add oil, then lay chicken into pan, skin side down. Use a spatula to firmly press chicken against surface, then add 1 lime to pan, placing sides down. Cook until skin is starting to brown, about 2 minutes. Transfer skillet to oven, lay reserved foil over chicken, then weight with second pan. Cook 10 minutes. Remove pan from oven and turn chicken over; cook second side in residual heat 1 minute. Squeeze juice from cooked limes into pan; transfer chicken and pan juices to a plate and serve with remaining lime halves.

FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI. ILLUSTRATIONS BY JOE WILSON.

No limes? Use lemons. No turmeric? Use curr y powder. No cumin? Omit!

BASICALLY

Awesome Sauce

b y C L A I R E SA F F I T Z

1―BRING IT ALL TOGETHER

2―TURN UP THE HEAT

Stir 1 cup sugar, ⅛ tsp. cream of tartar, and 3 Tbsp. water in a medium heavy saucepan (this is a must) to combine. A flimsy pan will have hot spots, causing the caramel to burn in places.

Bring sugar mixture to a boil over medium heat, stirring occasionally and scraping around sides to dissolve sugar. Normally, stirring can lead to a grainy caramel, but the cream of tartar prevents crystallization.

3―GET IT GOING

4―HOLD FOR GOLD

5―TAKE IT TO THE LIMIT

Once the sugar mixture is at a rapid boil, reduce heat to medium-low and cook, swirling the pan occasionally. After about 4 minutes, the syrup around the edges will start to turn golden.

Keep cooking, swirling as the edges darken to equalize the color and distribute the heat throughout the pan, until caramel is amber, another 2–3 minutes. Pay close attention, as the caramel darkens quickly.

Continue to cook, swirling, until caramel is dark amber and a wisp of smoke appears, 1–2 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in 4 Tbsp. unsalted butter a tablespoonful at a time until smooth (mixture will sputter).

6―BE SMOOTH

7―CHILL OUT

8 ― A P P LY L I B E R A L LY

Stirring constantly, gradually add ½ cup room-temperature heavy cream. Stir until caramel is silky smooth and thick. If caramel hardens in spots, set back over medium heat and stir until solids dissolve.

Stir 1 tsp. kosher salt into caramel sauce and let cool (it will continue to thicken as it cools). Transfer to an airtight container. It will keep in the refrigerator 1 month. Reheat gently to liquefy before using.

Serve caramel sauce on an ice cream sundae, with apple pie, whipped into frosting, or spooned over Monkey Bread (see recipe on page 45). Recipe makes about 1 cup.

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P H OTO G R A P H S BY A L E X L AU

FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI

Drizzled over ice cream, served alongside crepes, or jarred up and beribboned as gifts, this smooth, salty caramel sauce makes your holiday extra sweet

HEALTHYISH

Snacks on a Plane

Coconut and Crispy Chickpea Trail Mix

The only way to be sure you’ll have a decent in-flight meal is to make it yourself b y A N DY B A R AG H A N I P OWER TOPPER

This sweet-savory mix can dress up yogurt, add crunch to a salad, or be your go-to snack.

Preheat oven to 400°. Spread out one 15-oz. can chickpeas, rinsed, on a paper towel–lined rimmed baking sheet and let drain. Remove paper towels and toss chickpeas with 1 Tbsp. olive oil and ½ tsp. kosher salt. Roast, tossing halfway through, until golden brown and crisp, 35–40 minutes. Meanwhile, slice three 2x1" pieces orange zest into ½"-thick strips and toss in a small bowl with ⅓ cup pumpkin seeds, ¼ cup rosemary leaves, 2 Tbsp. olive oil, 1 Tbsp. pure maple syrup, ¼ tsp. cayenne pepper, and ½ tsp. kosher salt. Remove chickpeas from oven; add pumpkin seed mixture and toss well. Roast until pumpkin seeds are pale green, about 5 minutes. Toss ½ cup unsweetened toasted coconut flakes into trail mix; let cool. 2 servings

EVERY THING SAL AD

Protein, fresh herbs, crunchy veg, plus some good fats help you feel full.

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Cook ½ cup green lentils, rinsed, and ½ cup red quinoa, rinsed, in a large saucepan of simmering salted water until lentils are tender but still retain their shape, 15–20 minutes. Meanwhile, whisk 2 Tbsp. red wine vinegar, 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice, and 2 tsp. Dijon mustard in a large bowl. Whisking constantly, gradually stream in ¼ cup olive oil. Season dressing with salt and a generous amount of pepper. Drain lentils and quinoa and add to bowl with dressing along with 3 celery stalks, thinly sliced on a diagonal, 1 cup celery leaves, 2 cups thinly sliced green cabbage, and 1 cup torn mint leaves; toss to coat. Add 3 oz. shaved semifirm cheese (such as Gouda or Gruyère) and toss again. Taste and season with more salt and pepper if needed. 4 servings

P H OTO G R A P H BY A L E X L AU

FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI

Quinoa Bowl with Lentils and Mustard Vinaigrette

THE PROJECT

HOT! HOT! HOT!

Hot Stuff Break out the masa and chiles and roll up your sleeves: This winter we’re making spicy, soul-warming tamales

These tamales have four types of chiles, but if you can’t get them all, ten ancho and six pasilla should do.

I F YO U C A N S P R E A D

BIG BALLER

The key to this picture-perfect tamale swirl? A baseball-size ball of aluminum foil.

P H OTO G R A P H S BY A L E X L AU

peanut butter and jelly on a slice of bread, you can make tamales. Really, it’s that easy (though it involves a few more ingredients). When I was little, my mom gave me a bowl of masa (corn dough), a spoon, and a stack of corn husks and told me to start spreading. After all, making tamales is a group project. That’s why in Mexico and the southern U.S. tamaladas, or tamalemaking parties, are so popular. When I head home to Austin for the holidays, my parents and I still host a big tamalada, where we catch up, drink, laugh, and cook and eat 20 dozen tamales made with pig’s head and pork shoulders. But don’t worry, I’ve scaled down this recipe to make just a couple dozen so the process is easier. As for the helping hands? Start sending out your invites now. RICK MARTINEZ

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k THE PROJECT tamales

Pork Tamales Rojos M A K E S A B O U T 30

PORK FILLING

1 Tbsp. lard or vegetable oil 1 medium onion, finely chopped 9 large ancho chiles, seeds removed 6 dried guajillo chiles, seeds removed 3 morita chiles 3 pasilla chiles, seeds removed 3 cups low-sodium chicken broth 2 tsp. coriander seeds 2 Tbsp. cumin seeds 8 garlic cloves, peeled 1 tsp. crushed Mexican or Italian dried oregano 1 lb. boneless pork shoulder (Boston butt), fat trimmed, cut into 1" pieces 1 lb. pork belly, cut into 1" pieces 1 bay leaf 2 Tbsp. kosher salt 1 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar M AS A

3 lb. fresh coarse-grind corn masa for tamales (unprepared) 1¼ cups plus 2 Tbsp. (or more) lard, melted ¼ cup low-sodium chicken broth 1 Tbsp. kosher salt

S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T : A spice mill or mortar and pestle B R A I S E T H E P O R K Heat lard in a large heavy pot over medium-high. Cook onion, stirring occasionally, until golden brown and softened, 8–10 minutes. Add ancho, guajillo, morita, and pasilla chiles and broth and bring to a boil. Cover pot, remove from heat, and let sit, stirring occasionally, 30 minutes to allow chiles to soften. Meanwhile, toast coriander seeds in a dry small skillet over medium heat, swirling often and adding cumin seeds during the last 30 seconds, until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Let cool; finely grind in spice mill or with mortar and pestle. Preheat oven to 250°. Transfer chile mixture to a blender; reserve pot. Add ground toasted spices, garlic, and oregano and purée until smooth, about 2 minutes. Place pork shoulder, pork belly, bay leaf, salt, and 1¾ cups chile purée in reserved pot; save remaining purée (about ¼ cup) for masa. Bring mixture to a boil, cover pot, and transfer to oven. Braise pork until very tender and it shreds easily, 2–2½ hours. Let cool 15 minutes, then skim fat from sauce; discard bay leaf. Using a potato masher or a large fork, smash pork into sauce until meat is shredded and incorporated into sauce. Stir in vinegar; let cool. Transfer filling to an airtight container and chill until pork is cold and firm, at least 3 hours.

ASS E M B LY

30 dried corn husks (from a 1-lb. bag) 3 cups (or more) low-sodium chicken broth Fresh salsa and lime wedges (for serving) 6 4  D E C E M B E R 2 0 17 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 8

Fresh to Death Using fresh masa to make your tamales yields the best corn flavor and texture.

Filling can be made 3 days ahead. Keep chilled. DO AHEAD:

M I X T H E M AS A Mix masa, lard, broth, salt, and reserved chile purée in a large bowl with your hands until well incorporated and mixture looks shiny and smooth, about 4 minutes [1, 2, 3]. Slap the top of masa with the palm of your hand, immediately pulling your hand back [4] If masa doesn’t stick and your hand looks shiny, the dough is ready. If masa sticks, add another 2 Tbsp. lard and knead until incorporated; repeat slap test. If masa still sticks to your hand, repeat process until you get there (another 2 Tbsp. lard should do it).

HOT TIP

Your best chance at removing the seeds from dried chiles is before they get soaked. Simply pull off the stem, cut the chile, and most of the seeds should fall out. If not, simply remove with a paring knife. Once all the seeds are out, the chiles are ready to go.

k THE PROJECT tamales Full Steam Ahead Lining the bottom of your pot with corn husk scraps [9] creates a barrier between the pot and your tamales while also trapping steam in the center to cook them.

F I L L T H E H U S KS Soak husks in a large bowl of hot water until soft and pliable, about 15 minutes. Using your hands, swirl husks in water to loosen any silks or dirt. Drain, rinse, and shake off excess water. Place a husk on a work surface and gently stretch out wide end. Measure 5" wide, then tear off any excess (hold onto the scraps; you’ll use them later). The width doesn’t have to be exactly 5", but if you go any narrower, your tamale might not cover the filling. This recipe makes about 30 tamales; prep a few extra husks in case some tear. Arrange husk so wide end is closest to you. Spoon 2 heaping Tbsp. masa onto husk about 4" from the bottom. Using a putty knife, small offset spatula, or butter knife, spread masa into a thin, even layer, covering the width of the husk and about 5" up the length of the husk; leave the narrow

THE TOOL

The next time you’re in a hardware store, grab a putty knife. Its wide, flat head is perfect for evenly spreading masa on your corn husks. And it shouldn’t cost you more than a few bucks.

end uncovered [5]. If you mess up, just scrape off masa and start over. Repeat with remaining husks and masa. Keeping wide end closest to you, place 2 Tbsp. cold pork filling in the center of masa on each husk, forming a log that runs down the center [6]. Fold 1 side of husk over filling [7], then fold other side over to cover [8]. Holding tamale seam side up, fold narrow, pointed end of husk away from you and under tamale. Set on a rimmed baking sheet seam side up. Repeat with remaining tamales.

SHOP LOCAL

Towns with large Spanish-speaking populations usually have a tortilleria. Head to your local shop for both fresh masa and dried corn husks. Otherwise, search online.

6 6  D E C E M B E R 2 0 17 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 8

ARRANGE AND STEAM THE TA M A L E S Line a large heavy pot with husk scraps [9]. Crumple a large sheet of foil to form a 3"-diameter ball. Place ball in center of pot. Using ball as support, prop tamales upright, with folded end down and seam side facing up, around ball; this

will take 4–7 tamales [10]. Continue stacking tamales around the ball, leaning them against one another. Pour broth into pot, being careful not to get any inside tamales (broth should come about ¾" up sides of tamales). Bring liquid to a boil over high heat, then reduce heat to medium-low. Cover pot and simmer tamales, undisturbed, adding more stock as needed to keep some liquid in pot, 40 minutes. Remove a tamale from pot; let cool 3 minutes. (If you don’t let it rest before checking, masa will stick to husk and appear gummy.) Remove husk; if masa sticks to husk, it’s not ready. Carefully refold and return to pot. Cook 5 minutes more; check again. If husk peels back easily, tamales are done. Remove from heat, uncover, and let sit 10 minutes before unwrapping. Serve with salsa and lime wedges for squeezing over [11].

FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI

N O T E S F R OM MY T E S T K I T C H E N

GREEN ME UP

Finish with an herb—it’s one of those chef moves we should all do.

LOVE: LENTILS TROPICAL SWIRL

Unlike dried beans, lentils cook in about half an hour.

A drizzle of naturally sweet coconut milk offsets the heat.

comfort me with soup Extravagant holiday feasts are meant to be indulged in once a year. But as far as Yotam Ottolenghi is concerned, a bowl of soup is forever 6 8  D E C E M B E R 2 0 17 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 8

P H OTO G R A P H BY A L E X L AU

N O T E S F R OM MY T E S T K I T C H E N

Curried Lentil, Tomato, and Coconut Soup This recipe calls for medium curry powder, but it’s flexible. If the one you have is mild or very spicy, adjust the heat level with more, or less, red pepper flakes.

4 S E RV I N G S

“Healthy and hearty, spicy and straightforward, frugal and fragrant in equal measure, lentil soup is the antidote to all that roast duck, the extra helping of lamb, that wedge of Stilton, and all the snacking in between.” YOTA M OT TO L E N G H I

7 0  D E C E M B E R 2 0 17 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 8

2 Tbsp. virgin coconut oil or extra-virgin olive oil 1 medium onion, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 2½" piece ginger, peeled, finely grated 1 Tbsp. medium curry powder (such as S&B) ¼ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes ¾ cup red lentils 1 14.5-oz. can crushed tomatoes ½ cup finely chopped cilantro, plus leaves with tender stems for serving Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 1 13.5-oz. can unsweetened coconut milk, shaken well Lime wedges (for serving) Heat oil in a medium saucepan over medium. Cook onion, stirring often, until softened and golden brown, 8–10 minutes. Add garlic, ginger, curry powder, and red pepper flakes and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add lentils and cook, stirring, 1 minute. Add tomatoes, ½ cup cilantro, a generous pinch of salt, and 2½ cups water; season with pepper. Set aside ¼ cup coconut milk for serving and add remaining coconut milk to saucepan. Bring mixture to a boil; reduce heat and simmer gently, stirring occasionally, until lentils are soft but not mushy, 20–25 minutes. Season soup with more salt and pepper if needed. To serve, divide soup among bowls. Drizzle with reserved coconut milk and top with more cilantro. Serve with lime wedges. D O A H E A D : Soup (without toppings) can be made 3 days ahead. Let cool; cover and chill.

FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI

uring times of great excess, It’s chaotic and not quite sane, to be it’s often the simplest things sure, but also huge fun and as much that satisfy the most. This is about the friends and family sharing as true of what comes out of in it as it is about the food. In the mad the kitchen during the holidays as it is blur of it all, I welcome the uncompliof everything else, when decorations, cated things: an old friend coming over drinks, and general cheer are ramped whom I haven’t seen enough of during up to ten. It’s all fun, of the year, the first cup of coffee course, and hard to resist, in bed as the city is just waking but the bigger the celebraup, the odd free night on the ES TO tion, the greater my appetite sofa watching an old movie. A TO M is, on the other hand, for the These are the things that stand quieter things. out the most. DRY GOODS Don’t get me wrong: I love For me, the culinary equivaThis recipe lent of these moments of joy is all the feasting that suris a testament a bowl of lentil soup. Healthy rounds the holiday season. to the power and hearty, spicy and straightAt home, my husband, Karl, of the pantry. forward, frugal and fragrant in and I do a lot of hosting. We You don’t need a thousand equal measure, it’s the antireturn home from the cheesespices and dote to all that roast duck, the monger and greengrocer specialty extra helping of lamb, that with wheels of Stilton and condiments to wedge of Stilton, and all the Pecorino, filling bowls with eke out big flavor. Keep snacking in between. This is clementines and plenty of canned tomatoes, just the sort of soup that can dried fruit and nuts to be coconut milk, be made without having to run snacked on by all who stop and quickto the store, without breaking by in the days to come. Meals cooking lentils the bank, and without testing are planned, lists are writin the pantry, and this meal the capacity of your system to ten, friends are invited over will always take on yet another elaborate to eat trays of cheese crackbe less than an meal. While this soup ticks a ers, and red wine is always hour away. lot of “free from” boxes—dairy at the ready. Ducks will be free, gluten free, meat free, scored or poussins stuffed in preparation for the feasting, while a guilt free—it feels anything but. I love to marinade will be whisked together, make a big batch of it a day or two before awaiting a leg of lamb. Tolerance for the holidays (it keeps well in the fridge the amount of cheese that can be eaten for about three days and can also be froafter every meal expands at an impres- zen if you’re really getting organized) and sive rate, as does the ability for one have it on hand to both prepare for the meal to blend seamlessly into the next. indulgences ahead and to soothe once The oven seems to be on for most of the we’ve reached the other side, when the day, lowered only when the cycle is bro- parties are over and I can look forward to ken by a walk for some fresh wintry air. the return and reign of (relative) calm.

city guides NYC

The Grill’s Warren Hode pours a Boulevardier. And, yes, we’ll have another.

Holidays on the Rocks A glass of bubbly. A life-affirming martini. A whiskey nightcap. Grabbing a drink in New York City this time of year is our kind of spiritual experience. Here are our favorite festive spots to throw back a few

7 2  D E C E M B E R 2 0 17 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 8

P H OTO G R A P H S BY A L E X L AU

CITY GUIDES holiday nyc

The aperitivo lineup at Vini e Fritti L I V I N G I N N E W YO R K

has its ups (the diversity! the museums! the pizza!) and its downs (the rents! the crowds! the Knicks!). But even the grumpiest New Yorker has a hard time denying the merriment that envelops the city come December. For the staff of BA, our favorite way to celebrate the season is to grab a friend or partner and get a few drinks. But not just anywhere. There are those bars and restaurants that just seem to embody the holiday season—it could be because of the fireplace in the middle of the room, the epic views of Central Park from your chair, or the absurd amount of decorations above your head. So the next time you’re in New York for the holidays, go see that big Christmas tree but save time for some of our preferred pit stops. CITY

Where the locals hang at Balthazar

1VINI E FRITTI

After the trauma that is taking the kids to see Santa at ABC Carpet & Home on Union Square, my wife and I need a drink. Vini e Fritti, the newly opened Roman-style aperitivo bar, delivers. The girls snack on fried artichokes while Mom and Dad drink amaro highballs. Don’t judge—it’s worked for the Italians for centuries.  ANDREW KNOWLTON, deput y editor

2  B A LT H A Z A R

3THE GRILL

There are a lot of touristy things to do in the city that I stubbornly refuse to do because I’m “from here.” But I make an exception for Balthazar in mid-December. First: the rules. I only sit at the bar because it’s way cooler. I only go with my husband because we had just started dating when it opened. I order Champagne, and we get a towering raw seafood platter and then frisée aux lardons and escargots. And fries, of course, because they’re so good with Champagne. To the untrained eye I could be a tourist. Not so! I can come back whenever I want, even if it’s not till a year from now, because I’m from here.

Let others wait in line to go ice-skating at Rockefeller Center. Right now there’s nothing that feels more New York than being at The Grill. The energy at the new restaurant in the former Four Seasons space could light up a hundred trees. Think all dressed up and sitting at the bar with a Boulevardier poured from a cut-crystal mixing glass, chain curtains shimmering, bronze-rod chandelier shining, and Tom Ford–tuxedoed servers practically glowing in the wood-paneled room. Even the potato chips with your $18 drink feel like a gift. It all might be the most memorable present you give this year.

CARLA LALLI MUSIC, food director

CHRISTINE MUHLKE, editor at large

4LE COUCOU

Every December my best friends and I go for a long, fancy lunch. This year we’re splurging at the oh-so-French Le Coucou. What better way to celebrate than a flaming omelette Norvégienne (like baked Alaska) and a glass of rich Sémillon dessert wine. EMILY EISEN, associate visuals editor 74  D E C E M B E R 2 0 17 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 8

From top: Cracking the interactive In the Rocks cocktail at the Aviary NYC; a fiery (and sweet) finish at Le Coucou

CITY GUIDES holiday nyc

5BAR GOTO

senior web editor

Clockwise from top: Everyone looks good at the perfectly lit Bar Goto; the Central Park view from the Aviary NYC; Genesee beer and a whiskey is the order at Achilles Heel; the holiday spirit at Rolf’s is crazy awesome

6  R O L F ’S

To call Rolf’s festive would be like saying Imelda Marcos kinda had a thing for shoes. The German classic takes standard-issue holiday spirit to an over-the-top extreme, decking out its Gramercy space in a floor-to-ceiling, wall-to-wall assault of 95,000 ornaments and 150,000 lights, not to mention more Santas than you can count. Order a dunkelweizen beer and some schnapps and just try not to start humming “Jingle Bells.” MERYL ROTHSTEIN, senior editor

7 6  D E C E M B E R 2 0 17 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 8

7T H E AV I A RY N YC

8ACHILLES HEEL

This winter you’ll find me cozied up in a window seat at the Aviary NYC at Mandarin Oriental, where the only downside is having to decide whether to gawk at the 35th-floor Central Park views or drinks. Every cocktail at the NYC offshoot of the legendary Chicago cocktail bar comes with an elaborate tableside demo. But nothing beats the New Year’s Eve–inspired drink, In the Rocks: An old-fashioned is trapped inside an orb of ice, which you’ll crack open with a custommade slingshot, sending your drink tumbling over a bed of cassisflavored snow. (And if that’s not enough, it comes with a side of Champagne.) It’s a night out worthy of its own countdown.

If you’re visiting Brooklyn in December, I’m taking you to Achilles Heel in Greenpoint and not only because there’s reliably a fire crackling. We’re going because this revamped dockworkers’ bar represents everything that’s great about a borough that inspires more eyerolling than rhapsodies these days. It’s the kind of place where the bartenders are just as quick to expound the merits of a biodynamic rosé as they are to

JULIA BLACK, associate web editor

AMIEL STANEK, editor, Basically

crack a can of cheap beer and pour a shot of whiskey; where

quiet late-afternoon cocktails segue seamlessly into DJ-fueled late nights. It’s old. It’s new. It’s Brooklyn in a nutshell, and it’s the part I’m proud to show off.

FOR DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK

I do a large amount of my Christmas shopping in the eccentric East Village, where a vintage cookbook store is next door to a boutique filled with designer coasters. Hauling my treasures like the Grinch post-Whoville cleanout, I know there’s one place in this city that isn’t blasting carols and stocking-stuffed with tourists. Behind an unmarked door on a sleek slatted storefront is Bar Goto. Everything on the cocktail menu is on Santa’s good list. My pro order is the floral sakura martini (sake, gin) with a sunken cherry blossom garnish, plus a side of miso wings and the classic okonomi-yaki pancake. Once, overheated from holiday shopping, I was treated like an undercover royal, which was no accident. Everyone here is. Jimi Hendrix was playing, the dim lighting complemented my best angles, and I’m not sure why I ever left. ALEXANDRA BEGGS,

SEVEN H O L I D AY COOKIE RECIPES THAT ARE A PIECE OF CAKE by Claire Saffitz photographs by Kelsey McClellan

F R O S T E D M A L T  C H O C O L A T E B I S C U I T S P. 8 8

H O N E Y  VA N I L L A L I N Z E R C O O K I E S P. 8 2

Honey-Vanilla Linzer Cookies You can roll out the dough and punch out other shapes, but the slice-and-bake method is fast, and you won’t have any scraps. M A K E S A B O U T 30

T T WO Y E A RS AG O, I found myself standing in my kitchen beside a sink full of dishes, exhausted, covered in powdered sugar and extremely late to a holiday party. I had just spent hours showing of f my food e d i tor skills hunched over sugar-cookie snowmen and snowflakes, piping lines of royal icing, placing expensive silver dragées with pinpoint accuracy, and painting swirls of sparkly luster dust. I eventually made it to the party, but was it worth the effort? Highly debatable. The cookies didn’t taste any better for it, and I’m a professional! Now my holiday-cookie plan typically rejects that elaborate decorating, relying instead on straightfor ward, nostalgiatinged recipes that still deliver great visual appeal and flavor. The recipes here do all that but don’t require acetate paper, a dehumidifier, or tweezers (all things I have actually used). Think minimal work, tools, and mess but maximum flavor, polish, and efficiency. I guarantee not only that you’ll make it to the holiday party on time with an impressive cookie assortment but that you’ll do so with your sanity and kitchen intact.

1 log Honey-Vanilla Sablé Dough (see recipe) ⅔ cup any flavor jam, strained Powdered sugar (for dusting) S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T : A ½"-diameter pastry tip or ½" cookie cutter

Press down on log with your palms to create a flat surface; roll log over and press down again. Repeat once more so you have a neat triangle. Freeze until very firm but not frozen solid, about 1 hour. Place racks in upper and lower thirds of oven; preheat to 325°. Unwrap dough and cut into very thin slices (⅛" or thinner if possible), rotating every few slices to keep triangular shape. Place on 2 parchment-lined baking sheets, spacing 2" apart. Use pastry tip or cookie cutter to punch out centers of half the cookies. Bake cookies, rotating baking sheets halfway through, until evenly golden brown all over, 10–15 minutes. Let cool on baking sheets. Spread about ¾ tsp. jam across entire surface of each unpunched cookie. Dust tops of cutout cookies with powdered sugar; place on top of jam, sugar side up. D O A H E A D : Cookies can be baked (but not assembled) 2 days ahead. Store airtight at room temperature.

Pistachio Thumbprints You can find pistachio paste at specialty food stores and some grocery stores, but making your own is easy. Process ½ cup raw pistachios, 2 Tbsp. honey, and 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil in a food processor to a smooth paste. M A K E S A B O U T 18

⅓ cup finely chopped raw pistachios 1 log Honey-Vanilla Sablé Dough (see recipe) ½ cup sweetened pistachio paste 4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, room temperature Preheat oven to 350°. Place pistachios in a small bowl. Unwrap dough and slice crosswise into 18 pieces and roll each between the palms of your hands into smooth balls. Press gently into pistachios 8—2

to coat half of each ball, then place, pistachio side up, on a parchment-lined baking sheet, spacing about 2" apart. Bake cookies until barely golden, 8–10 minutes. Remove from oven and press the handle of a wooden spoon about threequarters of the way down into the center of each cookie to make a round indentation, and wiggle in a circular motion to widen. Return to oven; bake until golden brown, 5–8 minutes. Let cool on baking sheet. Using an electric mixer on medium speed, beat pistachio paste and butter in a small bowl until light and fluffy, about 30 seconds. Dollop 1–2 tsp. pistachio mixture into the indentation in each cookie. D O A H E A D : Cookies can be baked (but not filled) 3 days ahead; store airtight at room temperature. Cookies can be filled 1 day ahead.

Honey-Vanilla Sablé Dough M A K E S T W O 9" LO G S This dough produces a finely textured, surprisingly flavorful cookie that holds its shape well.

2¼ ¾ ¾ ½ 2 1

cups all-purpose flour tsp. ground cardamom tsp. kosher salt cup granulated sugar vanilla beans, split lengthwise cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into 1" pieces, room temperature 1 large egg yolk ¼ cup honey

Whisk flour, cardamom, and salt in a medium bowl to combine. Place sugar in a large bowl and scrape in vanilla seeds; save pods for another use. Massage mixture with your fingers until sugar looks like wet sand. Add butter and beat with an electric mixer on medium speed until mixture is smooth. Add egg yolk and honey; beat to combine. Reduce speed to low; add dry ingredients in 2 additions, mixing well after each addition. Knead dough a couple of times to incorporate any dry bits in the bottom of the bowl. Divide dough in half and pat into two 9"-long logs. Wrap each log in parchment paper, then wrap tightly in plastic. Roll each log across work surface to make as round and regular as possible, then chill until firm, about 2 hours. D O A H E A D : Dough can be made 1 month ahead; freeze instead of chilling. Thaw in refrigerator overnight before using.

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S P I C E D M O L A S S E S C O O K I E S P. 8 8

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B L O O D O R A N G E A N D P O P P Y P O L E N T A S H O R T B R E A D P. 8 9

Frosted Malt-Chocolate Biscuits M A K E S A B O U T 20 Original malted milk powder can be found in the baking aisle. Look for the Nestlé Carnation brand.

10 oz. semisweet chocolate wafers (disks, pistoles, fèves; about 2 cups), divided ¾ cup (packed) dark brown sugar ½ cup unsweetened cocoa powder 2 Tbsp. malted milk powder 1 Tbsp. baking powder 1½ tsp. kosher salt 2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for parchment paper ¾ cup (1½ sticks) chilled unsalted butter, cut into pieces 1 tsp. vanilla extract ⅔ cup plus ½ cup heavy cream 1 Tbsp. light corn syrup Flaky sea salt

Bake biscuits, rotating baking sheet halfway through, until firm to the touch around the edges, 13–18 minutes. Let cool on baking sheet. Meanwhile, heat corn syrup, remaining 4 oz. chocolate, and remaining ½ cup cream in a heatproof bowl set over a saucepan of barely simmering water (bowl should not be touching the water), stirring often, until chocolate is melted and mixture is completely smooth. Set bowl with frosting into a large bowl of ice water and let cool, stirring occasionally, until thickened but still pourable and shiny. Spoon a scant tablespoonful of frosting onto each biscuit; sprinkle with sea salt. D O A H E A D : Dough can be made 1 day ahead; keep chilled. Biscuits (without frosting) can be baked 2 days ahead; store airtight at room temperature.

Spiced Molasses Cookies S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T :

A 1½"-diameter

cookie cutter Pulse 6 oz. chocolate wafers in a food processor until finely chopped. Transfer to a large bowl. Pulse brown sugar, cocoa powder, malted milk powder, baking powder, kosher salt, and 2 cups flour in food processor several times to combine. Add butter and pulse until pieces are broken up into bits no larger than a pea. Add to bowl with chocolate and toss to combine. Stir vanilla and ⅔ cup cream in a measuring glass to combine, then slowly drizzle over chocolate mixture, mixing with a fork all the while. Mixture will look dry once you’ve added all the cream. Knead dough a few times in the bowl (it will not come together and will look crumbly), then transfer to a large piece of plastic wrap. Bring the edges of plastic up and over dough and press down to incorporate floury parts, then wrap tightly. Use the heel of your hand to press down firmly on the dough, forcing it to tightly fill out the plastic. This will help the dough adhere into a single mass and help the flour hydrate. Chill dough until firm, at least 1 hour. Preheat oven to 400°. Roll out dough between 2 sheets of floured parchment paper to ¾" thick (you might not have to roll it very much). Punch out rounds with cookie cutter as close together as possible. Transfer biscuits to a parchment-lined baking sheet and freeze 10 minutes.

M A K E S A B O U T 40 If you’d like an even more pronounced molasses flavor, use a robust instead of mild molasses. Just don’t use blackstrap in these cookies; not only will it be too strong and bitter, but it will overwhelm the spices.

1¼ ½ 1 1 2 1½ ½ 1½ 1 ½ 1 ⅓ ¾ 1

cups all-purpose flour cup whole wheat flour tsp. baking soda tsp. kosher salt tsp. ground ginger tsp. ground cinnamon tsp. ground cloves tsp. finely ground black pepper, plus more for sprinkling cup (packed) dark brown sugar cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature large egg, room temperature cup plus 1 Tbsp. mildflavored (light) molasses cup powdered sugar Tbsp. (or more) milk Raw sugar (for sprinkling)

Whisk all-purpose flour, whole wheat flour, baking soda, salt, ginger, cinnamon, cloves, and 1½ tsp. pepper in a medium bowl to combine. Using an electric mixer on medium speed, beat brown sugar and butter in a large bowl until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add egg and beat to incorporate. Add ⅓ cup molasses and mix just to combine. Reduce mixer speed to low and gradually add dry ingredients; beat just until 8—8

incorporated. Pat dough together and wrap in plastic. Chill until firm, about 1 hour. Place racks in upper and lower thirds of oven; preheat to 350°. Scoop out level tablespoonfuls of dough and roll between the palms of your hands into smooth balls. Place on 2 parchment-lined baking sheets, spacing about 2" apart (you should be able to fit about 12 on each sheet). Bake cookies, rotating baking sheets top to bottom and back to front halfway through, until just firm around the edges, 9–12 minutes (if you like chewier cookies, bake less, and if a crispier cookie is your thing, bake a little longer). Let cookies cool about 5 minutes on baking sheets, then transfer to wire racks and let cool completely. Repeat with remaining dough, using fresh parchment paper on baking sheets. Whisk powdered sugar, milk, and remaining 1 Tbsp. molasses in a medium bowl until smooth. The glaze should be very thick and glossy but still pourable. If needed, add more milk or water ½-teaspoonful at a time until you get to the right consistency. Drizzle glaze over cookies and sprinkle with raw sugar and more pepper. D O A H E A D : Cookies can be baked and glazed 2 days ahead. Once glaze is set, store airtight at room temperature, or freeze unglazed cookies up to 1 month in resealable plastic bags.

Hazelnut Lace Sandwich Cookies M A K E S A B O U T 16 Make your dough balls as even as possible so the cookies match up when stacked.

½ ¼ ½ 6 ¼ 2 2 1

cup blanched hazelnuts cup all-purpose flour tsp. kosher salt Tbsp. unsalted butter cup granulated sugar Tbsp. heavy cream Tbsp. pure maple syrup tsp. vanilla extract F I L L I N G A N D ASS E M B LY

8 Tbsp. unsalted butter, room temperature 2 Tbsp. powdered sugar ⅓ cup blueberry jam, strained Finely grated zest of 1 lime

FOOD STYLING BY SUSAN SPUNGEN. PROP STYLING BY MICHELLE MAGUIRE. HAND LETTERING BY JEN MUSSARI.

C O O K I E S Pulse hazelnuts, flour, and salt in a food processor until nuts are finely ground; set aside. Cook butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat until butter foams, then browns, about 5 minutes. Let cool about 5 minutes, then add granulated sugar, cream, maple syrup, vanilla, and 1 Tbsp. water and stir to incorporate. Return saucepan to medium heat and bring to a boil; cook, without stirring, 30 seconds. Remove pan from heat and stir in hazelnut mixture. Scrape batter into a medium heatproof bowl and let cool, stirring occasionally to reincorporate the butter. Meanwhile, place racks in upper and lower thirds of oven; preheat to 325°. Scoop out rounded teaspoonfuls of batter and roll between the palms of your hands into smooth balls. Place on 2 parchment-lined baking sheets at least 3" apart. Because these cookies spread so much during baking, give each ball plenty of space. You should be able to fit 8 per sheet and will need to bake in 2 batches for a total of 32 cookies. Bake cookies, rotating baking sheets top to bottom and front to back halfway through, until they spread into thin lacy disks and are deep golden brown around the edges, 10–14 minutes. Let cool on baking sheets. Repeat with remaining batter, using fresh parchment paper on baking sheets. D O A H E A D : Cookies can be baked 2 days ahead. Store airtight at room temperature, separated by layers of parchment paper to prevent sticking. F I L L I N G A N D ASS E M B LY Using an electric mixer on medium speed, beat butter in a medium bowl until light, about 1 minute. Add powdered sugar and beat until pale, about 30 seconds. Add jam about 1 tablespoonful at a time, beating until smooth after each addition, then beat in lime zest. Carefully remove cooled cookies from parchment. Using a small offset spatula, spread 1–2 tsp. filling across flat sides of half of cookies. Top with remaining cookies to create sandwiches.

Granola Cluster Cookies M A K E S A B O U T 18 These meringuelike cookies have all our favorite granola ingredients. You can swap in equal amounts of other nuts and seeds, such as hazelnuts, peanuts, or sunflower seeds.

1½ 1 1 ¾ ½ ½ 3

cups pecans cup sliced almonds cup unsweetened coconut flakes cup pumpkin seeds (pepitas) cup old-fashioned oats tsp. kosher salt Tbsp. virgin coconut or extra-virgin olive oil, melted 2 large egg whites ⅔ cup sugar

Preheat oven to 325°. Toss pecans, almonds, coconut, pumpkin seeds, oats, salt, and oil on a rimmed baking sheet and bake, tossing once, until coconut is golden and mixture is fragrant, 10–12 minutes. Let cool. Whisk egg whites in a large bowl until foamy. Gradually add sugar, whisking until mixture is thick and opaque. Add nut mixture and fold to coat evenly. Drop ¼-cupfuls of mixture onto a parchment-lined baking sheet, spacing evenly (if your baking sheets are small, you might have to use 2). Bake cookies, rotating baking sheet halfway through, until edges are golden, 15–20 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack and let cool. D O A H E A D : Cookies can be baked 1 day ahead. Store airtight at room temperature.

Blood Orange and Poppy Polenta Shortbread M A K E S 16 L A R G E O R 32 S M A L L If you can’t find blood oranges, substitute navel orange zest and juice or pick up a bottle of blood orange juice. See Prep School on page 128 for more information.

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature, plus more for pan ⅔ cup polenta (coarse cornmeal) 1 tsp. kosher salt 1½ cups all-purpose flour, plus more for hands ½ cup granulated sugar Finely grated zest of 2 blood oranges Finely grated zest of 1 lemon 2 tsp. vanilla extract 2 Tbsp. poppy seeds, plus more for sprinkling ½ cup blood orange juice 1 cup powdered sugar Preheat oven to 350°. Lightly butter an 8x8" baking pan, preferably metal. Line with parchment paper, creating overhang on 2 sides. Lightly butter parchment. 8—9

Whisk polenta, salt, and 1½ cups flour in a medium bowl to combine. Place granulated sugar and blood orange and lemon zests in a large bowl and rub together with your fingers until mixture is very fragrant and sugar starts to look a little moist, about 1 minute. Add 1 cup butter and beat with an electric mixer on medium speed until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add vanilla and beat just to combine. Reduce speed to low and gradually add dry ingredients, mixing just until combined. Fold dough with a rubber spatula a few times to incorporate any dry bits in the bottom of the bowl. The dough will be wet and a bit sticky. Using floured hands, gently press half of the dough into prepared pan in an even layer. Sprinkle 2 Tbsp. poppy seeds over dough; press gently to adhere. Scatter pieces of remaining dough over and press down into an even layer with floured hands. For a completely flat surface, use the bottom of a straightsided measuring cup to smooth dough. Bake shortbread until edges are golden brown and center is light golden, 25–30 minutes. Let cool in pan. Meanwhile, simmer blood orange juice in a small saucepan over medium heat, swirling often, until reduced to 2 Tbsp., 10–12 minutes. Pour into a small bowl and let cool. Carefully slide a small knife or offset spatula along sides of pan not lined with parchment paper, then use edges of paper to lift out shortbread onto a cutting board. Using a serrated knife, slice into quarters in one direction, then into eighths in the other direction (for larger bars, just cut in half first). Puzzle shortbread bars back into pan the same way they came out; set aside. Add powdered sugar to bowl with reduced juice and whisk until smooth. The glaze should fall off the end of the whisk in a thick, glossy, smooth ribbon. If glaze is not pourable and gets stuck in the whisk, add in water a ½-teaspoonful at a time until you get the right consistency. Drizzle glaze over shortbread in pan and use an offset spatula to smooth all the way to the edges. Sprinkle with more poppy seeds and let shortbread sit until glaze is set, at least 1 hour. Just before serving, retrace cuts with a sharp knife and remove bars from pan. D O A H E A D : Shortbread can be baked 3 days ahead. Once glaze is set, cover tightly and store at room temperature.

Chef Angela Dimayugaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s family-filled, flavor-packed, all-hands-on-deck FilipinoAmerican Christmas is one for the books P H OTO G R A P H S BY A L E X L AU

have five brothers and sisters and to macaroni salad. When our extended famwe’re all food nerds, so when we get ily moved to the Bay Area before I was born, together for Christmas, we’re always they brought all of those international flavors showing off for each other (though with them in a combination that reflects the we totally pretend we’re not). Our Pampanga province but also their individual mother, Sarah, is the same way with tastes and talents. her eight siblings, and she gets it from My grandmother Josefina is 99 now, and she her mother, Josefina, who always refused to can’t cook anymore, but she’s still super-serious share her recipes. When my mom was grow- about food. A few years ago I finally convinced ing up in the Philippines, Josef ina stole her to teach me how to make her famous the show every year embutido -stuf fed with her ensaimadas whole chicken. (We before church on made my version of her Christmas morning. dish at Mission Chinese When I was a kid, Food, and she loved my f a m i l y a l wa y s the idea tha t New opened presents at Yorkers ate “Josefina’s midnight on Christmas C h i c ke n ,” b u t s h e Eve so we could just scolded me for not cook and eat our way including her beloved t h r o u g h C h r is t m a s chorizo Bilbao.) Now Day. The menu spans that I’m cooking more Filipino classics to sous Filipino dishes at vide experiments. I’ve Christmastime, I realize made ever y thing just how much techfrom arroz caldo, a nique goes into her The Dimayuga clan porridge traditionally recipes—it’s so easy to slurped in the days leading up to Christmas, overcook the onions on the bistek!—and how to fancy leaves of puff pastry as a comple- her ways work better than the “right” ways ment (but also a challenge) to my sister I’ve learned in restaurant kitchens. Astrid’s beef Wellington. When I cook on Christmas, I want to honor The menu changes from year to year, but for my grandmother, but deep down, I suppose Christmas to feel like Christmas, we always I also want to impress her or even improve need a showstopper, like the whole pig on her creations. I want my family to keep (lechón) my grandmother requested last year. circling back to the buffet table looking for Filipino food is incredibly eclectic because the another helping of Josefina’s Chicken or islands’ history is full of traders, occupiers, Angela’s Pork Belly. In our family, seconds and missionaries, each of whom brought their a r e t h e s i n c e r e s t f o r m o f f l a t t e r y. own ingredients and dishes—from soy sauce  A S T O L D T O K A R E N L E I B O W I T Z

ENSAIMADAS P. 9 6

9â&#x20AC;&#x201D;3

SEARED RADICCHIO AND ROASTED BEETS P. 9 6

9â&#x20AC;&#x201D;4

C l o c k w i s e f r o m t o p l e f t : D i m a y u g a Ê¼s n i e c e s a n d n e p h e w s m a k e a g o o d w e l c o m i n g c o m m i t t e e ; R o a s t P o r k B e l l y w i t h C h i l e V i n e g a r , p . 96; D i m a y u g a a n d s i s t e r A d r i e n n e b u y l o c a l f r u i t ; B i s t e k w i t h O n i o n s a n d B a y L e a v e s , p . 99

Ensaimadas For a step-by-step on shaping these sugary, Parmesan-y, buttery rolls, see Prep School, page 128. M A K E S 12

1 ¼-oz. envelope active dry yeast (about 2¼ tsp.) 6½ tsp. plus ½ cup sugar ½ cup lukewarm milk (105°–110°) 6 large egg yolks 3 cups all-purpose flour, divided 1½ tsp. kosher salt 8 Tbsp. unsalted butter, room temperature; plus 4 Tbsp. melted, slightly cooled, divided Nonstick vegetable oil spray ½ cup grated Parmesan, plus more S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T : Two 6-cup jumbo muffin pans; a ½"-diameter wooden dowel

Combine yeast, ½ tsp. sugar, and 3 Tbsp. lukewarm water in the bowl of a stand mixer. Cover bowl and let mixture sit until foamy and active, about 10 minutes. Whisk milk, 3 egg yolks, ¾ cup flour, and ¼ cup sugar into yeast mixture until smooth. Cover and let sit until very bubbly, 1–1½ hours. Add salt, remaining 3 egg yolks, ¼ cup sugar, and remaining 2¼ cup flour to mixture. Fit mixer with dough hook and mix dough on medium-low speed until smooth and elastic, 6–8 minutes (it will be sticky). Add 8 Tbsp. room-temperature butter 1 Tbsp. at a time, mixing until completely incorporated after each addition (about 1 minute each time). Dough should be very easy to stretch. Cover bowl and let dough rise in a warm draft-free place until doubled in size, about 2 hours. Preheat oven to 325°. Coat muffin cups with nonstick spray and line with 4" squares of parchment paper. Punch down dough; divide into 12 pieces. Working with 1 piece and covering the rest, roll out to a 14x3" rectangle. Brush lightly with melted butter and sprinkle with a little cheese (about 2 tsp.). Working at an angle so dough wraps down the length of dowel, roll dough toward you around dowel. Slide dough off dowel (it will scrunch up a bit). Stretch out to 8–10" long and coil around itself to make a snail-shell shape; place in a muffin cup. Repeat with remaining pieces of dough. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise until puffy and dough springs back when gently pressed, 25–35 minutes. Bake ensaimadas until golden brown and puffed, 20–25 minutes. Brush with remaining melted butter; sprinkle with more Parmesan and remaining 6 tsp. sugar.

D O A H E A D : Dough can be made (do not let rise) 12 hours ahead. Cover and chill. Let dough come to room temperature, then let rise until doubled before proceeding, 1–2 hours.

Seared Radicchio and Roasted Beets Roasting beets over high heat yields charred skin— a nice balance with the sweet flesh. 8 S E RV I N G S

6 medium beets, scrubbed 5 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided Kosher salt 2 small heads of radicchio, cut into large wedges through root end 1 cup pomegranate juice 2 Tbsp. red wine vinegar ½ cup pomegranate seeds Flaky sea salt (for serving) Preheat oven to 450°. Toss beets with 1 Tbsp. oil on a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet; season with kosher salt. Roast, tossing once, until skins are charred and beets are tender, 40–50 minutes. Let cool. Meanwhile, heat 2 Tbsp. oil in a large skillet over medium-high. Cook radicchio wedges on cut sides until browned, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer to a platter. Add pomegranate juice to skillet; bring to a boil and cook until thickened and syrupy, about 5 minutes. Stir in vinegar; season with kosher salt. Tear beets open and place around radicchio; spoon dressing over. Top salad with pomegranate seeds, sprinkle with sea salt, and drizzle with remaining 2 Tbsp. oil.

4½ 4½ 2 3

tsp. hot smoked Spanish paprika tsp. paprika tsp. freshly ground black pepper lb. ground pork Nonstick vegetable oil spray ¼ cup ketchup 2 tsp. Worcestershire sauce

Preheat oven to 350°. Gently lower 6 eggs into a large saucepan of boiling salted water and cook 5 minutes. Transfer to a bowl of ice water and let cool 2 minutes. Drain and carefully peel. Mix remaining 6 eggs in a large bowl with garlic, Parmesan, panko, butter, pickles, olives, raisins, vinegar, both paprikas, pepper, and 2 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 4½ tsp. Morton salt, then mix in pork. Line two 9x5" loaf pans with a sheet of foil, leaving 3" overhang on long sides. Lightly coat with nonstick spray. Divide half of meat mixture between pans. Place 3 boiled eggs in a line down the center of each pan. Top with remaining meat mixture, packing tightly around eggs and making sure they are completely covered. Mix ketchup and Worcestershire sauce in a small bowl and spread over both embutidos. Bake until an instant-read thermometer inserted into several places, avoiding eggs if possible, registers 155°, 55–70 minutes. Let cool 10 minutes. Transfer embutidos to a platter; slice. D O A H E A D : Embutidos can be baked 4 days ahead. Let cool, cover and chill.

Roast Pork Belly with Chile Vinegar Set it and forget it: This stupid-simple method for pork belly with crackling skin and succulent meat is a total winner. 812 S E RV I N G S

Embutido 812 S E RV I N G S Don’t waste any of the paprika-tinted delicious juices remaining in the pan—sop them up with rice instead.

12 large eggs 2 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 4½ tsp. Morton kosher salt; plus more 8 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 cup grated Parmesan 1 cup panko (Japanese breadcrumbs) ¾ cup (1½ sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature ½ cup chopped bread-andbutter pickles ½ cup coarsely chopped pitted green olives ½ cup raisins ¼ cup distilled white vinegar

1 4–5 lb. skin-on, boneless pork belly Kosher salt 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil 1 12-oz. bottle unseasoned rice vinegar 12 garlic cloves, chopped 6–12 green Thai chiles, lightly crushed but left whole 2 serrano chiles, torn into small pieces 4 12-oz. bottles hard apple cider 2 Tbsp. honey Season pork generously with salt. Set, skin side up, on a wire rack set inside a rimmed baking sheet. Chill at least 12 hours and up to 2 days.

EMBUTIDO

9â&#x20AC;&#x201D;7

FLAN WITH UBE

GRAPEFRUIT

( P U R P L E YA M ) CANDIES

9â&#x20AC;&#x201D;8

FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI. PROP STYLING BY AMY WILSON. FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.

Preheat oven to 350°. Pour 4 cups water into baking sheet with pork. Rub pork skin with oil; season with more salt. Roast, adding more water to pan as needed, until skin is golden brown and an instant-read thermometer inserted into thickest part of pork registers 195–200°, 1½–1¾ hours. Meanwhile, pour out ½ cup vinegar from bottle (save for another use). Remove pouring spout from bottle and add garlic, chiles, and a large pinch of salt. Cover and shake to distribute; let sit until ready to serve. (Or, combine in a glass jar or bowl). Bring hard cider and honey to a boil in a large saucepan; cook until thickened and very syrupy, 30–45 minutes. Increase oven temperature to 450°. Continue to roast pork until skin is browned and puffed, 15–20 minutes (add a few more splashes of water to baking sheet if juices are scorching). Transfer rack with pork to a cutting board; let rest 20 minutes. Pour off fat from baking sheet and add ½ cup water, scraping up browned bits. Return baking sheet to oven for a few minutes if needed to help loosen browned bits. Stir into reduced cider mixture. Remove skin from pork, using the tip of a knife to get it started (it should come off in 1 large piece with a little help). Slice pork lengthwise into 2"-wide strips, then crosswise into ½"-thick pieces. Transfer to a platter and drizzle with reduced cider mixture. Break skin into large pieces and arrange on top; place a few chiles from vinegar around. Serve with chile vinegar. D O A H E A D : Chile vinegar can be made 1 week ahead. Store at room temperature.

about 1 minute. Add onion and ½ cup water. Cover skillet (use a baking sheet if you don’t have a lid) and cook until onion is partly tender; it should have lost its raw bite but still have some crunch, about 5 minutes. Transfer onion and bay leaves to a plate with a slotted spatula or tongs. Increase heat to medium-high and bring remaining liquid in skillet to a boil. Cook until only 2 Tbsp. remains. Scrape into a small bowl and stir in lemon juice and soy sauce. Set sauce aside. Wipe out skillet and heat remaining 1 Tbsp. oil in skillet over medium-high. Season reserved meat with salt. Working in batches, cook meat undisturbed until dark brown, about 2 minutes. Turn and cook until second side is lightly browned, about 45 seconds. Transfer to a platter. Reduce heat to medium (let skillet cool a little if it is very hot) and cook reserved sauce in skillet just to let flavors meld, about 1 minute. Add 1–2 Tbsp. water if sauce is too concentrated. Pour over meat and top with onion and bay leaves.

remaining ⅔ cup sugar in a blender until smooth and sugar is dissolved, about 1 minute. Transfer to a large bowl and gently mix in cream, milk, salt, and reserved grapefruit zest; let sit 5 minutes. Strain into a large measuring glass. Divide custard between prepared baking dishes. Line a roasting pan with a thick kitchen towel; this will keep baking dishes from sliding and will insulate flan, preventing it from overcooking. Set dishes on towel and place roasting pan in oven. Pour very hot water into pan until it reaches the same level as flan in baking dishes. Bake flan until it looks set like Jell-O (it will wobble when gently shaken), 40–55 minutes. Transfer dishes to a wire rack; let flan cool. Run a small knife around edges of flan to loosen. Invert onto a platter and top with reserved grapefruit segments. D O A H E A D : Flan can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and chill. Unmold and bring to room temperature before serving.

Ube (Purple Yam) Candies Flan with Grapefruit For the clearest caramel and smoothest custard, we found that ceramic or glass baking dishes work best. 8 S E RV I N G S

1 1⅔ 4 5 1⅓ 1⅓ ¼

small grapefruit cups sugar, divided large eggs large egg yolks cups heavy cream cups whole milk tsp. kosher salt

M A K E S A B O U T 60 Traditionally made with ube (Filipino sweet potato), this recipe will work with any purple or orange sweet potato or yam.

12 oz. purple- or orange-fleshed sweet potatoes (about 2 medium) 7 oz. sweetened condensed milk ½ cup nonfat instant dry milk ½ tsp. finely grated lime zest Pinch of kosher salt 2 Tbsp. sugar, plus more S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T :

Bistek with Onions and Bay Leaves If you trimmed any excess fat off the steaks, render it slowly over medium heat and use in place of the oil. 8 S E RV I N G S

2 1" thick boneless rib-eye steaks, excess fat trimmed 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil, divided 8 fresh bay leaves 1 large white onion, sliced into ½" thick rounds ¼ cup fresh lemon juice ¼ cup soy sauce Kosher salt Slice steaks in half lengthwise. Following natural seams in meat, cut each half into 2–3 pieces and set aside. Heat 1 Tbsp. oil in a large skillet over medium. Add bay leaves; cook until beginning to brown around the edges,

Finely grate zest from grapefruit; set aside. Cut away peel and white pith from flesh; discard. Working over a bowl, cut along membranes to release segments into bowl; discard membranes. Set segments aside. Cook 1 cup sugar in a small saucepan over medium heat until it begins to melt and turn brown around the edges. Using a heatproof rubber spatula, pull melted sugar at edges toward center of unmelted sugar. Continue cooking, pulling in melted sugar, until all the sugar is melted and caramel is uniformly dark brown (it should smell toasty but not burnt), 10–12 minutes total (if you still have undissolved lumps of sugar, stir off heat until they melt). Divide caramel between two 8"-diameter shallow ceramic ovenproof baking dishes or two 9x5" loaf pans, preferably glass or ceramic, to create a ⅛"–¼" deep layer. Let cool. Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat to 275°. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Purée eggs and egg yolks with

A potato ricer or

food mill Preheat oven to 350°. Roast sweet potatoes on a rimmed baking sheet until tender, 40–50 minutes. Let cool. Halve lengthwise and scoop flesh from skins; discard skins. Press flesh through ricer into a bowl (you should have 1 packed cup). Cook sweet potato and condensed milk in a medium nonstick saucepan or skillet over medium heat, stirring often, until thickened and jammy, 6–8 minutes. Stir in powdered milk, lime zest, salt, and 2 Tbsp. sugar. Cook, stirring often, until slightly shiny, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl; cover with plastic wrap, pressing directly onto surface. Let cool. Turn out ube mixture onto a work surface and roll into ½"-thick logs. Sprinkle sugar over surface; roll logs in sugar until generously coated. Cut into 1½" pieces. D O A H E A D : Candies can be made 2 weeks ahead. Wrap tightly and chill.

A FEW OF OUR FAVORITE THINGS

Turns out chefs aren ’t only experts when it comes to running a restaurant—they also know how to holiday. We asked the pros for the timeless rituals and recipes they wouldn ’t dare celebrate the season without PHOTOGRAPHS BY PEDEN + MUNK

ILLUSTRATIONS BY PETER ARKLE

BittersweetChocolate Truffles p. 108

1 1— 0 —2

Finish with a Bang J od y Wi l l i a m s , Buvet te, NYC

“I always set a long table—at least 12 seats. And after dinner, I lay clementines or satsumas with their green-leaf tops right down the middle. I’ll do nuts, too—walnuts, hazelnuts, chestnuts. We’ll drop beautifully wrapped Italian chocolates and some big bricks of nougat for people to chip away at. And then there’s the chocolate truffle, with spoons for people to run across the surface and create chocolate shavings. Everyone grabs a small plate and serves themselves. It’s participatory. We’ll peel the citrus and suddenly the peels will be everywhere. We’ll start to crack nuts and there will be shells everywhere. That’s when the meal becomes really, really relaxed. You could sit there all night, making conversation, playing card games. That’s my favorite moment.”

2 Chips with Dip Caviar

W E ’ R E A L L S E C R E T LY P U Z Z L E N E R D S “A holiday-themed puzzle is always on the table, and it’s slowly built over many days by many hands. My partner Kaitlyn’s family rolls in the 2,000-piece range; 1,000 is entry-level.” — Ashley Christensen, Poole’s, Raleigh, NC

L i n t o n H o p ki n s , C . E l l e t ’s , Atlanta “I learned about

caviar and potato chips from the late Sam Beall of Blackberry Farm. It’s become my family’s holiday tradition, just the four of us. The high-low is what’s so great about it. I have a rose-colored antique glass dish that I’ll spoon the caviar into, and we use mother-of-pearl spoons. If I’m planning in advance, I’ll use homemade chips from Restaurant Eugene. If not, it’s classic Lay’s. I’ll make clabber cream to go with it, but you can also use crème fraîche. Lately we’ve been enjoying Mote caviar out of Florida, but you can find other great stuff online. I recommend Browne Trading Company; a friend of mine gets his from Sam’s Club.”

E M B R AC E T R A D I T I O N E V E N I F I T I N VO LV E S R U M S AU S AG E S “I split Christmas between my parents and my girlfriend’s family, but it doesn’t really matter if I’m there, as long as I send the rum sausages: Hormel breakfast sausages, brown sugar, and light rum. Let it stew until it gets thick, like half an hour, throw it in the slow cooker, and serve with toothpicks. It’s just one of those dishes that’s so easy, so dumb, so fantastic.” —Chris Shepherd, Underbelly, Houston

“My siblings and I have separate Christmas plans, but on the Lunar New Year, we all get together with our families. We call it Festivus [laughs]. We cook, we feast, we play cards—and I always make tteokguk, or rice cake soup. Koreans traditionally eat it to welcome New Year’s Day, and it signals that you’re getting a year older and, hopefully, better as a human being. The older generation says, ‘If you don’t eat your tteokguk, you won’t get a year wiser!’ It’s their passiveaggressive way of making sure you have a bowl.” Sohui Kim, Insa, Brooklyn

CUE THE NETFLIX “On Christmas Day, we all lounge around, eating leftovers from our Christmas Eve feast and watching some strange, obscure indie movies. Try Santa Sangre.” —Diana Dávila, Mi Tocaya Antojería, Chicago

“The past four years, we’ve done Christmas Eve with family friends. Our friends’ oldest daughter wants to be a chef, so we give her new tasks every year. Anything that involves an interesting object or a repetitive task works well, like shaping gnocchi. Oyster shucking is heavily supervised. Once, another friend’s daughter skinned her hand, so we just said, ‘You have chef hands now!’ She was really proud.” —Nicole Krasinski, State Bird Provisions, San Francisco

1— 0 —3

PUT THE KIDS TO WORK

Good Luck Beef and Korean Rice Cake Soup p . 108

Ring in the (Lunar) New Year

Indian-Spiced Pork Roast with Rosemar y and Onions p . 108

Rack of Ages

Salted But tered Pecans with Orange and Nutmeg p . 109

GO HAM ON THE CHRISTMAS DECORATIONS “Right after the Halloween decorations come down, my seven-year-old daughter and I begin drafting our Christmas plans for the front yard. Everyone goes all out in our neighborhood. We keep it pretty traditional, but sometimes we get wild and hang three-foot light-up orbs from our maple tree. It takes us until March to put them all away.” —Krista Kern Desjarlais, the Purple House, North Yarmouth, ME

“I grew up in India, so my first experience with American holiday traditions was with my wife’s family. They’re Jewish, but they do Christmas bigger, badder, and louder than most, not to mention their over-thetop Thanksgiving feasts. Turkey’s hard to cook and always dry, so I’m always thinking, what can I do that’s as centerpiece worthy? I do crown roast with black peppercorn, fennel seed, and cumin. It’s not that I’m trying to Indian-ize it; my spice pantry is just four times larger than other people’s.”

WAIT, YO U’RE NOT SABERING?

“My wife tries to discourage my holiday Champagne sabering. It’s not because of safety—she just wants me to open bottles like a normal person. But sabering is the way to go—like shotgunning a beer but better.” —Justin Severino, Morcilla, Pittsburgh

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Meher wan Irani, Chai Pani, Asheville, NC

Food Gifts > Other Gifts V i v i a n H o w a r d , C h e f & t h e Fa r m e r , K i n s t o n , N C

“Every year I make my mom’s salt-and-butter-roasted pecans. We share them with special customers, my kids’ teachers, and friends. Plus, I keep a few tins in the car for moments when I feel like I should have a gift for someone and I don’t. And I always receive a few jars of ‘Apple Pie’ cocktail as gifts—it got the name because people used to hide their moonshine in apple cider jugs and cut it with cider and spices. That trick evolved into a batched cocktail folks take great pride in. I’ve served it more nights than I can remember, heated with more lemon juice, as a nightcap.”

1―Choose wisely “The better the Champagne, the better it sabers. Really good Champagne comes in awesome delicate bottles. Prosecco bottles can be as hard as steel. In general I gear toward the Brut rosés from France, but I’m not picky.” 2―Secur e your weapon of choice “I keep a foot-long metal file

on top of my refrigerator. That works well, but I pride myself on sabering with anything that’s around. I once sabered with an iPhone 4.” 3―Pr ep your bo t tle “Take the foil and basket off the cork, then turn the bottle so the seam faces up. Run the blade up and down the seam three to four times to create a little vibration and carbonation.”

4 ―Ta ke y o u r s ho t “Aiming away from people, hack off the top of the bottle in one fluid sliding motion and follow through. The last thing you want is to use force. As you get better, start thinking about distance and accuracy. My record is 25 feet.” 5 ―E xe r c i s e c a u t i o n “Don’t drink straight from the bottle. It’ll cut your face off.”

GET CRACKING 1— 0 — 6

“My dad, my brother, some friends, and I go crabbing on Christmas Eve. If the weather is nice, we’ll cook them right on the beach in saltwater. My parents have a big marble countertop, so we’ll sit around in the kitchen making dinner. Everyone in this family has cracked a lot of crab, so it’s nice to have the help. We’ll do a simple but decadent pasta. Oh, and lots of Champagne. We don’t wait until five o’clock. We’re not going anywhere.” —Renee Erickson, Bateau, Seattle

It’s Your Lucky Day Julia Sullivan, Henriet ta Red, Nashville “It’s a big tradition in the South

to eat black-eyed peas and collard greens on New Year’s Day. It’s something my mom has always done, and I think my grandparents, too. It’s a superstitious thing. The black-eyed peas bring good luck, and the greens symbolize money. Everybody takes a couple of bites in solidarity.”

New Year’s Day Black -Eyed Peas and Sweet and Tangy Collard Greens p . 109

PEKING DUCK OR BUST “Peking Gourmet, this Chinese restaurant in a strip mall in Falls Church, Virginia, is a madhouse between Christmas and New Year’s. I go with my family on Christmas Day and always run into friends from restaurants like Komi, Tail Up Goat, and Mirabelle—among my friends, it’s a Jewish tradition. I’ve never left there not in pain…and without extra food.” — Aaron Silverman, Rose’s Luxury, Washington, D.C.

A N D A F T E R T H E PA RT Y I T ’S T H E L E F T OV E R S PA RT Y “Every year, right after Christmas, I get my friends together for a leftovers party. People bring whatever’s in their fridge and we convert the leftovers into a second meal. All the pressure’s off this time! Everyone can just kick back and have a good time.” —Mike Lata, FIG, Charleston, SC

The More Cookies the Merrier

“The best part of hosting our cookie exchange at Sister Pie—a tradition we started last year for staffers and customers—is seeing this gloriously diverse selection of cookies that you wouldn’t be able to get anywhere else. Here’s a few tips.” —Lisa Ludwinski, Sister Pie, Detroit

Time to Make the Doughnuts

Michael Solomonov, Zahav, Philadelphia

Make a Big Batch

“One year my staff and I realized that with tweaking, our challah dough has all the characteristics of really good doughnut batter. Now this version inevitably makes an appearance on our Hanukkah menu at Zahav. When we fill them with fresh quince paste, it’s the classiest jelly doughnut.”

“Bake at least three dozen to trade. It’s enough that you can try a few during the swap and still go home with a full box of treats.”

L ATA’S LEFTOVERS GA M E PLAN

HAM >> BISCUIT SANDWICH WITH PRESERVES

TURKEY >> TURKEY HAND PIES

HAM SCRAPS & G R AV Y > > R E D E Y E G R AV Y POTLIKKER WITH YO U N G G R E E N S

MASHED PO TATOES >> S H E P H E R D ’S PIE

Try a New One “As someone who bakes for a living, I love the chance to make something challenging that I wouldn’t otherwise, like rainbow cookies. Last year I decided to make a vegan cookie — we very rarely make those at the shop.” Set Out More Than Cookies If you’re hosting, having savory snacks, like chips and guac or a cheeseball, encourages people to hang out and helps with palate fatigue. Mulled wine, cider, or milk is never a bad idea, either.”

ROLLS >> TURKEY SLIDERS WITH M AY O A N D CRANBERRIES

1— 0 —7

Jam-Filled Challah Doughnuts p . 109

Bittersweet-Chocolate Truffles The truffle mixture will end up on the table in whatever vessel you chilled it in, which could be a pie plate or a decorative platter—it’s your house! M A K E S A B O U T 24

8 oz. bittersweet chocolate, chopped ½ cup heavy cream 2 Tbsp. grappa, plus more for serving Pinch of kosher salt ¾ cup cocoa powder Clementines, amaro, bourbon and/or dark rum (for serving)

1— 0 —8

Place chocolate in a medium heatproof bowl. Bring cream, salt, and 2 Tbsp. grappa to a simmer in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. As soon as bubbles begin to form at edges of pan, remove from heat and pour over chocolate. Let sit 3 minutes to let chocolate melt. Whisk (or blend with an immersion blender if you have one) until emulsified and smooth. Scrape into a shallow bowl or pie plate. Let ganache cool; cover and chill until firm, at least 2 hours. Place cocoa in a medium bowl; set out on table with ganache and some spoons so guests can drag spoons across chocolate to make curls and toss in cocoa. Serve with clementines and amaro. D O A H E A D : Ganache can be made 3 days ahead. Keep chilled.

Good Luck Beef and Korean Rice Cake Soup 8 S E RV I N G S Korean rice cakes can be found frozen or vacuum-packed at Asian markets. They’re delicious in soups (of course) but also seared or lightly grilled.

1½ lb. piece point- or flat-cut beef brisket or stew meat, fat trimmed 1 tsp. toasted sesame oil 1 Tbsp. plus 2 tsp. vegetable oil Kosher salt 4 scallions 1 3" piece ginger, peeled 4 garlic cloves, finely grated ⅓ Korean radish, peeled, quartered lengthwise, sliced crosswise ½" thick, or ½ medium daikon, halved lengthwise, sliced crosswise ½" thick 4 large eggs 8–10 oz. Korean rice cakes (tteok), sliced 2 tsp. fish sauce Freshly ground black pepper Korean red chile threads (optional; for serving) 10 8

Cut meat into 1½" pieces. Heat sesame oil and 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil in a large pot over medium-high. Add meat and season with salt. Cook, turning occasionally, until browned on all sides, 8–12 minutes. Meanwhile, separate scallion whites from greens and coarsely chop; set aside. Thinly slice scallion greens and set aside separately for serving. Using a flat-bottomed mug or the side of a chef’s knife, lightly smash ginger. Add to pot along with garlic, reserved scallion whites, and 16 cups cold water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, skimming any foam from surface, until meat is tender, 60–75 minutes, if using stew meat, or up to 2 hours , if using brisket. Transfer meat to a plate with a slotted spoon, then scoop out ginger and scallion whites and discard. Add Korean radish to pot and simmer until tender but not mushy (it should still hold its shape), 12–15 minutes. Meanwhile, heat 1 tsp. vegetable oil in a medium nonstick skillet over medium. Whisk eggs in a medium bowl and season with a large pinch of salt. Pour half of eggs into the center of skillet and quickly swirl pan to distribute evenly. Cook eggs undisturbed until they are just set, about 2 minutes. Carefully loosen with a heatproof rubber spatula, flip, and cook until other side is just set, about 1 minute. Slide egg crepe onto a cutting board and fold in half; let cool. Slice into ¼"-thick ribbons. Repeat with remaining eggs and 1 tsp. vegetable oil. Slice beef as thin as you can and return to pot; add rice cakes. Cook until rice cakes are soft, about 5 minutes. Stir in fish sauce; taste and season soup with more salt and a few grinds of pepper. Ladle soup into bowls and top with sliced egg, reserved scallion greens, and chile threads (if using). D O A H E A D : Soup (without garnishes) can be made 2 days ahead. Let cool; cover and chill. Reheat over medium before serving.

Indian-Spiced Pork Roast with Rosemary and Onions 12 S E RV I N G S You may think that there’s a lot of salt in this recipe, but the roast needs it. The spice mixture is acting as a dry brine, delivering seasoning to deep within the big cut of meat.

1 Tbsp. black peppercorns 1 Tbsp. fennel seeds 1 tsp. cumin seeds

1 Tbsp. crushed red pepper flakes 1 Tbsp. paprika 3 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 Tbsp. plus 2¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt, plus more 2 8-bone racks of pork (about 4 lb. each), chine bone removed, fat trimmed ¼" thick, rib bones frenched ½ cup coarsely chopped rosemary leaves ½ cup plus 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 1½ lb. medium mixed red, white, and/or yellow onions, peeled, quartered through root end 4 bay leaves S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T :

A spice mill or

mortar and pestle Toast peppercorns, fennel seeds, and cumin seeds in a dry small skillet over medium heat, tossing often, until fragrant about 2 minutes. Let cool, then coarsely grind in spice mill or with mortar and pestle along with red pepper flakes and paprika. Transfer to a small bowl and stir in 3 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 Tbsp. plus 2¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt. Place racks of pork on a rimmed baking sheet and pat dry. Tie racks with kitchen twine, spacing 1" apart (make sure to tie the meat snugly; you want it to be uniform in shape so that it will cook evenly). Rub all over with spice mixture and chill, uncovered, at least 6 hours or up to 12 hours (for the best flavor, longer is better). Let pork sit out at room temperature about 2 hours before roasting. Combine rosemary and ½ cup oil in a small bowl; let infuse while meat is coming to room temperature. Place a rack in middle of oven and preheat to 500°. Toss onions and bay leaves with remaining 3 Tbsp. oil in a large roasting pan (they should cover the bottom of the pan); season with salt. Rub pork all over with rosemary oil and place on top of onions. Roast until top of pork is golden brown, 10–15 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 325° and continue roasting pork and onions until an instantread thermometer inserted into the center of meat registers 135°, 60–75 minutes. Transfer pork roasts to a cutting board and tent with foil. Let rest 20–30 minutes. Keep oven on. Just before serving, give onions a toss and heat in oven just to warm through. Slice pork roasts between rib bones to make individual chops; arrange on a platter with onions.

Sweet and Tangy Collard Greens

M A K E S A B O U T 2 C U P S The orange zest and nutmeg say holiday, but you can switch up the spices as long as you keep the butter and salt.

8 S E RV I N G S Finishing these collard greens with vinegar means they tend to be on the acidic side. If you like yours sweeter, add less vinegar and up the sugar.

2 3 ⅛ 1 1

cups pecan halves Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted tsp. freshly grated nutmeg tsp. kosher salt, divided tsp. finely grated orange zest

Preheat oven to 350°. Toss pecans, butter, nutmeg, and ½ tsp. salt on a rimmed baking sheet to coat. Bake, tossing once, until deepened in color and fragrant, 8–10 minutes. Remove from oven and toss with orange zest and remaining ½ tsp. salt. Let cool before eating all of them. D O A H E A D : Pecans can be made 3 days ahead. Store airtight at room temperature.

REPORTING BY DAVID WALTERS, ASHLEY MASON, NIKITA RICHARDSON, AND EMMA WARTZMAN. FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI. PROP STYLING BY AMY WILSON. FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.

New Year’s Day Black-Eyed Peas 8 S E RV I N G S Black-eyed peas are easy to overcook, so go slow and steady when simmering, and don’t forget to taste often to check their doneness. They should be creamy but retain their shape.

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling 4 oz. slab bacon, cut into ½" pieces (optional) 1 medium onion, finely chopped 5 sprigs thyme, plus leaves for serving 4 garlic cloves, smashed 2 cups black-eyed peas, soaked overnight, drained Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper Heat 2 Tbsp. oil in a large saucepan over medium. Add bacon, if using, and cook, stirring occasionally, until some of the fat begins to collect in the pan and bacon starts to look shiny, about 5 minutes. Add onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden and tender, about 5 minutes. Add thyme sprigs, garlic, black-eyed peas, and 8 cups cold water and bring to a simmer over medium-high. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer gently, skimming any foam from surface, until beans are tender, 35–45 minutes. Discard thyme; season with salt. To serve, drizzle beans with oil and top with thyme leaves and some pepper. D O A H E A D : Beans can be cooked 3 days ahead. Let cool; cover and chill.

3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 4 oz. slab bacon, finely chopped (optional) 1 medium onion, finely chopped 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes 3 lb. collard greens (about 3 bunches), ribs and stems removed, leaves sliced crosswise into 1"-thick strips 3 cups low-sodium chicken broth or water ¼ cup apple cider vinegar 2 tsp. sugar Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper Heat oil in a large heavy pot over medium. Add bacon, if using, and cook, stirring occasionally, until some of the fat begins to collect in the pot and bacon starts to look shiny, about 5 minutes. Add onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden and softened, 5–7 minutes. Add garlic and red pepper flakes and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Working in batches, add collard greens to pot, letting greens wilt slightly after each handful before adding more. Add broth, bring to a simmer, and cook, stirring often, until greens wilt and lose about half of their original volume, about 4 minutes. Reduce heat to medium-low, partially cover pot, and simmer gently, stirring occasionally, until greens are tender and liquid is almost completely evaporated, 25–30 minutes. Stir in vinegar and sugar and cook another minute to allow sugar to dissolve; season with salt and pepper.

Jam-Filled Challah Doughnuts M A K E S A B O U T 24 If your jam is too thick, a few pulses in a food processor will loosen it up—no need to add water.

DOUGH

1½ 1 5 1 2⅓ 6

tsp. active dry yeast Tbsp. plus ¼ cup sugar large egg yolks tsp. kosher salt cups all-purpose flour, plus more Tbsp. unsalted butter, room temperature, cut into pieces Vegetable oil (for bowl)

F RY I N G A N D ASS E M B LY

Vegetable oil (about 8 cups; for frying) 1 cup sugar 1½ cups any flavor seedless jam S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T : A 2"-diameter biscuit or cookie cutter, deepfry thermometer, pastry bag, and ¼"-diameter pastry tip

Mix yeast, 1 Tbsp. sugar, and ½ cup warm water in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with paddle attachment to combine; let sit until mixture is foamy, 8–10 minutes. Add egg yolks, salt, and remaining ¼ cup sugar and beat on medium-low speed to combine, about 1 minute. Increase speed to medium and gradually add 2⅓ cups flour; mix until combined and thick, about 3 minutes. Remove paddle, scrape down mixture back into bottom of bowl, and swap in dough hook. With mixer on low speed, add butter a piece at a time, mixing until incorporated after each addition. Once all the butter has been added, mix until dough is smooth, shiny, and elastic, about 5 minutes. Turn dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead, adding more flour by the tablespoonful, until no longer sticky, about 3 minutes. Place dough in a lightly oiled large bowl and turn to coat. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let rise in a warm, draft-free spot until doubled in size, about 1 hour. Punch down dough and roll or pat out on a lightly floured surface to ½" thick. Punch out rounds of dough with cutter and place on a parchment-lined baking sheet, spacing 1" apart. Reroll scraps once and cut out more rounds. Cover doughnuts loosely with plastic wrap and let rise until not quite doubled in size, 30–40 minutes. F RY I N G A N D ASS E M B LY Fit a large heavy saucepan with thermometer; pour in oil to come 3" up sides and heat over mediumhigh until thermometer registers 350°. Working in batches and adjusting heat to maintain oil temperature, fry doughnuts, turning once, until golden brown, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a paper towel–lined baking sheet; let cool slightly. Place sugar in a medium bowl, and working in batches, toss doughnuts to coat. Transfer back to baking sheet. Stir jam to loosen and spoon into pastry bag fitted with tip (or use a squeeze bottle). Working one at a time, poke a small hole into side of doughnuts (a chopstick works great) and gently pipe in a generous amount of jam. 10 9

1— 0 —9

Salted Buttered Pecans with Orange and Nutmeg

CHOOSE A F L AVO R F U L FAT

Cooking with schmaltz, or any other animal-derived fat, adds roundness and depth to the roast.

At Mamalehâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, a new-school Jewish deli in Cambridge, M A , fork-tender brisket gets fortified with schmaltz and Manischewitz PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX L AU

RECIPE BY T YLER SUNDET

FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH. PROP STYLING BY KALEN KAMINSKI. FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.

Mamaleh’s Brisket 8 S E RV I N G S The point cut is the fattier end of the brisket. It’s more tender and especially delicious because of the marbling. Ask for it first.

BROWNED IS BEAUTIFUL

By searing the meat before braising it, you’re building flavor and creating caramelized bits that will transform into a rich sauce.

LET IT CHILL OUT

Instead of eating the brisket immediately, refrigerate it at least overnight. The extra resting time helps the roast soak up the salty jus, making it moister.

1—1—1

1 6–8-lb. piece untrimmed pointor flat-cut beef brisket 1 Tbsp. freshly ground black pepper ¼ cup Diamond Crystal or 2 Tbsp. plus 2 tsp. Morton kosher salt; plus more ¼ cup schmaltz (chicken fat) or vegetable oil 2 large onions, coarsely chopped 5 large carrots, peeled, coarsely chopped 5 celery stalks, coarsely chopped 1½ cups Manischewitz Concord grape wine or Concord grape juice 2 heads of garlic, halved crosswise 8 sprigs thyme 4 fresh bay leaves 2 Tbsp. black peppercorns 3 quarts low-sodium chicken broth Season brisket all over with ground pepper and ¼ cup Diamond Crystal or 2 Tbsp. plus 2 tsp. Morton salt, rubbing into the grain. Wrap tightly in plastic and chill at least 3 hours and up to 3 days. Place a rack in lower third of oven; preheat to 275°. Heat schmaltz in a large roasting pan set over 2 burners on high. Unwrap brisket; cook, reducing heat if needed, until browned, 7–10 minutes per side. Transfer to a baking sheet. Reduce heat to medium-high. Add onions, carrots, and celery to pan; season with salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until browned and just softened, 15–18 minutes. Add wine, bring to a boil, and cook until evaporated, 8–10 minutes. Add garlic, thyme, bay leaves, peppercorns, and broth; bring to a boil. Nestle brisket into aromatics and cover tightly with foil; braise in oven until meat is very tender but still holds its shape, 2–3 hours. Let cool, then chill at least 8 hours and up to 2 days. Preheat oven to 250°. Remove solidified fat from surface of braising liquid; discard. Transfer brisket to a platter. Strain braising liquid into a large measuring glass; discard solids. Return liquid to pan and cook over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until reduced by half, velvety and intensely flavored, but not overly salty, about 30 minutes. Return brisket to pan, cover with foil, and heat in oven until warmed through, 60–90 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board and slice against the grain. Arrange on platter and pour braising liquid over.

IN THE KITCHEN AT L A R RYS

When Montreal gets cold, its food-loving citizens get hungry. Chef Tyler Kord explores the hearty bistros, classic delis, and one transportive tropical spot and finds out that the city is about more than just poutine PHOTOGRAPHS BY DOMINIQUE L AFOND

HUMMUS LAHME WITH SPICED LAMB AND PINE NUTS AT DAMAS

On a dark and windy night last December, in the middle of a brutally cold snowstorm in Montreal, where everybody was speaking French and acting like it was no big deal, I ate one of the greatest bowls of soup I have had in years.

know what you’re thinking: He’s in Canada, the land of ice fishing and beaver-tail soup with foie gras dumplings and smokedmeat maple syrup quenelles served in wooden bowls in smoky tanneries, and I did eat things like that, but no, this soup was made with squash and lime and cilantro and it was at a vibrant and boisterous Haitian restaurant, and it was magical. There are some fundamental reasons why I have absolutely no business writing about eating in Montreal in winter, not least of which is that Montreal is cold, and I hate being cold. I also kind of hate eating food. Let me explain: I am obsessed with food. But I’ve spent the past 15 years in professional kitchens, tasting little bits of everything, and the idea of sitting and eating a three-course meal makes my stomach want to shoot itself in its stomach-face. Also, this trip was scheduled for the week my wife was due to give birth to our first child, and I knew that if I were to miss that so I could eat myself silly in Canada, my wife may rightfully have never forgiven me. And also, really, I’m a chef, not a food writer. At any rate, I went to Montreal and it was very cold, and I ate way too much, and it turns out that it makes sense to be there in winter. Montreal is really its truest self in winter. The city is all strung up with Christmas lights, and people go skiing and sledding in Mount Royal Park. And it seems that the locals are just waiting for the tourists to go back south before they fill the city’s many restaurants. Have you seen the Quebec episode of Anthony Bourdain’s Parts Unknown? I can tell you with absolute certainty that my trip was nothing like that winterfest. I did not go ice fishing and eat truffles with the Joe Beef guys. I did not go

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: AU PIED DE C O C H O N ’S FOIE GRAS CHICKEN NUGGETS; FLETCHERS E S PAC E CULINAIRE; NORA G R AY ’S LINGUINE;

beaver trapping and eat truffles with the Au Pied de Cochon dude. And I did not ride on trains and eat hot maple syrup poured on snow, covered in truffles. Not to be completely outdone by Mr. Bourdain, I did have gut-busting, drunken meals at both of those establishments. But outside of the restaurants celebrating the splendor and excess of Québécois tradition, there’s a whole city of other places casually putting forth their own ideas of what Montreal food can be, from hip Haitian to Jewish delis old and new, and they’re doing it all with a French accent and a kiss on each cheek. I dragged along food personality and actual writer Francis Lam so that he could help me eat, but the next time I go, I’ll do it with family.

IN THE DAMAS KITCHEN

W H E R E I ’ L L TA K E MY PA R E N T S

ICESK ATING IN OLD MONTREAL

Lunch is my favorite time to eat a big meal, and Montreal seems to agree. And sometimes breakfast is lunch when you’ve eaten at Joe Beef the night before—which is when you go to Wilensky’s Light Lunch for a Wilensky Special. The special is bologna and salami on a cornmeal roll with mustard, and it has remained unchanged since 1932. I sat at the counter and washed it down with some grape soda while chatting with Sharon Wilensky, daughter of the founding patriarch, who was not the strict arbiter of the Law of Wilensky I had heard about (thou shalt not ask for a sandwich without mustard) but was in fact delightful and suggested some wintry things to do in Montreal, like zip-lining and a big dance party down by the docks— which, for a person who hates being cold and suffers from social anxiety, sounded terrifying.

WINTER FUN IN A WINTER TOWN; SEA BASS WITH CUCUMBERS AND BAKED CLAMS WITH C H I P S AT F OX Y

Wilensky’s was the first stop on the Jewish tourist food thing in Mile End, which I wanted to do because (1) I was a Jewish tourist, and (2) my father and his parents emigrated to Montreal in the late ’30s, refugees from what was once Hungary and is now Romania, and I wanted to see where my father learned to speak French and love ice hockey, as well as to eat the same smoked meat that he had as a child. And there is the same smoked meat. Like at Schwartz’s, apparently the oldest deli in Canada! It turns out that a smoked-meat sandwich is not a pastrami sandwich; the smoke is a little less intense and the spices are like pastrami spices, but they pop individually—one bite is black pepper, the next, coriander. And maybe I like the whole thing better than New York’s Katz’s (he typed as gently as possible with his eyes closed and mouth pinched into an uncomfortable smile as he if were about to be punched in the face). I also found a crop of restaurants drawing from tradition but doing something entirely new, like Fletchers Espace Culinaire, the small café inside the tiny but charming Museum of Jewish Montreal. Fletchers is run by Kat Romanow, a Jewish-food historian who gives tours in good weather; come winter she can be found at the café preparing awesome food, like gravlax cured with ras-el-hanout and served with a sesame bagel from famed and ancient Montreal bagel shop St. Viateur, preserved-lemon cream cheese, and pickled red onions. If you are really nice, maybe you can get her to tell you all about the neighborhood, a treat because she will direct you to the old Jewish delicacies that aren’t in the guidebooks, like the cheese crowns, little cheesecake hand pies covered in powdered sugar, at the Cheskie bakery. At Hof Kelsten bakery, right up the street from Fletchers, owner Jeffrey Finkelstein is less concerned with Jewish history than absolute perfection. And the seeded rye bread is that. The brisket sandwich comes on two untoasted slices filled with corned beef (his mother’s recipe), sliced apples, pickled cabbage, and a Russian dressing made with pickles that Finkelstein brines himself. The second time I had the sandwich (and I’m sorry, editors, I know I was supposed to eat as many different things as possible, but I literally could not stop thinking about this sandwich), I was just going to have a couple of bites to remind myself of the beautiful interplay of the salty beef with the bright apples and that slightly funky smell from the cabbage so that I could properly plagiarize it for No. 7 Sub, my sandwich restaurant in Brooklyn, and again, I ate the whole damn thing.

THE VIEW FROM ALMOST ANY S E AT AT F OX Y: ITS GLOWING, FIERY OVEN

W H E R E I ’ L L TA K E MY W I F E I had no idea that Montreal was so well known for its strip clubs, but every cab driver seemed to see in Francis and me a couple of guys who look like they’re really into strip clubs. They would ask repeatedly if we wanted to go to one. Instead, we mostly walked around. Even though it was cold, there were always lots of other people out and about enjoying the holiday decorations. (Montreal goes hard both for restaurants and Santa displays.) It was so romantic that my running joke was to stop and grab Francis’ arm and say, “Actually, there’s something I wanted to ask you...,” after which we would burst out laughing, but secretly I think that the city was getting to us. Walking out of the cold into a restaurant in Montreal is like getting into a hot tub with a Brandy Alexander in hand next to a stereo playing Van Halen on a clear winter night. (I’m not saying I’ve ever done that, but doesn’t it sound amazing?!) Anyway, that’s what it felt like to walk into Nora Gray, which looks like a Midwestern grandparents’ den in a low-ceilinged, woodwalled, leather-upholstered way, and feels like where the popular kids eat. Because I look

THE BAR AT N O R A G R AY; PA N E T TO N E FROM HOF KELSTEN BAKERY

like a bearded version of the great Canadian actor Rick Moranis, I stuck out a little. It was worth it because linguine with clams and nduja was easily one of the best things I ate in Montreal. Next I need to tell you about Foxy. Foxy doesn’t use any gas cooking equipment, blah, blah, blah. But instead of just being wood-fired everything, it also lists charcoal on its menu, and a restaurant with a charcoal grill makes me feel super good about everything. It has a pretty awesome aesthetic as well because just about anywhere you sit in the dark restaurant, you can see the coals glowing red, and it feels like Satan is roasting the souls of Canadians who covet thy neighbor’s goose liver while the chef grills the night’s sea bass and serves it with cucumbers and aioli. I honestly couldn’t pick a favorite dish: the brussels sprout coleslaw full of sweet apples and shreds of duck, or what sounded like a simple bowl of polenta that came out topped with braised mushrooms and bright orange shavings of Gouda. But who am I kidding? It was the clams! Baked in a smoky tomato sauce with almond breadcrumbs and a lot of cilantro, they tasted like Spain but with a creamy, nutty Canadian thoughtfulness. Damas is fancy. Not jacket-required fancy, but there are beautiful hanging light fixtures and the kitchen is done up in black-and-white tiles, and the modern Syrian food totally blew my tiny mind open. Plus, our server drank the most delicious lemoninfused fancy cardamom boozy shots with us, which is not a thing that usually happens at fancy restaurants, but I was again reminded of how Montreal goes hard. The hummus lahme, a swoosh of the lightest, silkiest hummus topped with delicately spiced chunks of lamb sautéed in ghee with pine nuts, was as good as it looks in the photo in this story. And for the record, I ate at Damas directly after the foiepocalypse at Au Pied de Cochon, and while I was planning on just having a bite here and a bite there, I ended up eating a full-on second dinner and felt surprisingly great afterward. Maybe it was the shots! I felt less great the next morning, but that is no excuse to skip brunch. I usually find that the only brunch worth eating anywhere is the Jewish variety involving bagels and salmon, and Montreal has plenty of that, so if you skipped the first section of this story, go back. Despite all of this, my friend Mark Slutsky (another food writer who actually lives there) talked me into meeting for brunch at Larrys in Mile End. If Larrys were in Brooklyn or Silver Lake, it would be impossible to get a table. The roasted potatoes with mayonnaise for dipping, as well as the blood sausage stewed with chickpeas and topped with a poached egg, made me feel like I could get into brunch after all. As we were leaving, a line was forming and my companion seemed to know everybody and I really got a glimpse of what it’s like to be a hungover celebrity in one of the coolest neighborhoods in Montreal.

ANCHOVIES, CARROTS, BROCCOLI: STRONG SIDES GA M E AT L A R RYS

A SMOKED M E AT SA N D W I C H AT S C H W A R T Z ’S , C A N A D A ’S OLDEST DELI

12 0

JOE BEEF CHEF DE CUISINE MARCOLIVIER FR APPIER TAKES A BREATHER; THE GINGER ROSE FIZZ AT DAMAS

HAND LETTERING BY JEN MUSSARI. FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.

T H E F I R S T P L AC E I ’ L L TA K E MY N E W B O R N On my last night in Montreal a friend and I were on a long walk in the Old Port, a neighborhood that looks like Europe and caused me to say for maybe the hundredth time, “Montreal feels so foreign”—because, you know, Quebec is so close, but they speak another language and it is literally another country—when it started snowing. Or since it is apparently always snowing to some degree in Montreal, it started snowing harder. We weren’t wearing appropriate shoes, so we quickly trudged the few blocks to the last restaurant of the trip. When we walked into the small house that is Agrikol, it was warm, the music was loud, and the place was packed. One of the specials was “A Celebratory Haitian Soup for Two,” and even though a giant bowl of soup was figuratively the last thing I wanted to see, of course my friend insisted we try it. (See what I did there? We’re back at the soup!) Out came a giant steaming bowl of soup joumou, a purée of squash cooked in beef stock with chunks of potatoes and parsnips, small meat-filled dumplings that look like ravioli, and a giant marrow bone sticking out like a lighthouse in a blizzard of coriander seeds and cilantro leaves. It was served with two of my favorite things in the known universe: a lime for squeezing and grilled crusty bread for dipping in the broth. We ate it in silence in the warmth of that restaurant while it snowed and snowed outside. And I could go on about how a Haitian restaurant makes so much sense in Montreal because they speak French and eat soup too, or about the fundamental idea that Montreal is a postcolonial soup of cultures trying to coexist while navigating the French language, so why not cheese crowns and hummus too? But I don’t think I need to do that. Someday, if I am ever hungry again, I will go back and take my wife and our ridiculously tiny new daughter (yes, I made it back in time for her birth, and we named her Montreal Tourtière Kord, though we’ve just been calling her Monty McPoutine, and I want you to know that I am kidding and her name is Barbara Grace Kord and we call her Screamy McPooperson, so you can just relax). And maybe we will go next spring when the weather is nice, but probably not because Montreal feels so right right now.

EAT LIKE A LOCAL EVEN IF YOUâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;RE NOT.

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prep school T E C H N I Q U E S , T I P S , A N D M O R E F R OM T H E B O N A P P É T I T T E S T K I T C H E N

It’s not a chip or a chunk. It’s a chocolate shard.

Nothing says cool mint like a frost y fauxgreen custard.

Baking Powder vs Baking Soda

MINT CONDITION

If you’ve ever seen baking powder and baking soda in a recipe and wondered if you really have to go to the store to pick up the one you ran out of, the answer is, forever and always: Yes, you do. Though they’re both leaveners, they’re not equivalent. Now you know.  C L A I R E S A F F I T Z

“Baskin Robbins’ mint chocolate chip is the OG ice cream of all ice creams. Not chips but tiny flecks—shavings if you will—of chocolate, sprayed throughout the minty green ice cream. The color? A key part of the appeal, if you ask me. Every kid knows that green mint chip tastes way better than that naturallooking white mint chip. Plus, the shamelessly neon hue signals to the world that you’re much more discerning than someone who would order plain old vanilla chocolate chip. It’s classic for a reason.”

SODA NEEDS SOUR

Baking soda reacts with acidic ingredients (buttermilk, molasses) to produce carbon dioxide gas, which will result in a light and fluffy texture.

POWDER HAS THE POWER

Because baking powder already contains an acidic ingredient, it will start to aerate the batter when mixed with a liquid.

FROM P. 96

B E L LY B U S T E R Angela Dimayuga’s expert technique for tender, juicy pork belly topped with a shatteringly crisp top layer of skin

looks super restaurant-y, but you can pull it off in your own kitchen with basic equipment and a little time. By placing the belly skin side up on a rack set over a pan of water, you create moist, even heat that softens the flesh and renders the interior marbling. At the same time, dry heat radiates from the oven’s ceiling, slowly but surely transforming the skin into a glasslike layer of bubbly pork cracklin’s. P H O T O G R A P H S BY L A U R A M U R R AY

 A D A M R A P O P O RT

D E C E M B E R 2 0 17 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 8  12 5

prep school Look for chiles that feel pliable, not brittle.

FROM P. 52

Nice and Dry

FROM P. 63

CHILE CHOICES There are four chiles called for in our tamales, which was a conscious decision we made so that this recipe would be awesome and worth doing. It’s not some power trip we’re on to make you, our dear readers, run around town collecting chiles for sport. In fact, we think each chile has earned its spot, and we’re prepared to defend that position to the end. A. PASILLA

B. GUA JILLO

C. ANCHO

D. MORITA

These chocolate–colored slender pods are essential in moles and other sauces. Here, they offer richness without a lot of heat.

The guajillo is known for its vibrant color and a moderate, slightly acidic flavor. It balances out the earthiness and spice of the other chiles.

Anchos are dried poblanos with a sweet, meaty, medium-spicy profile. They’re also extremely common and easy to find.

Enter smoke, fire, and necessary spice. These smoked jalapeños are responsible for serious kick and a roasty-toasty flavor.

When buying scallops, you need to ask your fishmonger if they are wet or dry. You want dry scallops, a.k.a. diver or dayboat scallops. Wet scallops are treated with a liquid preservative that extends their shelf life and makes them heavier, i.e., more expensive. What’s worse, all that added moisture makes it difficult to sear them. Dry scallops will caramelize in a hot pan, and any crisp bits that stick to the surface will make your pan sauce that much more delicious.

FROM P. 46

BALL OF FAME For anyone who is too intimidated to make a twisted, rolled, or braided dough, there’s monkey bread. It’s got that large-format, crunchychewy, finger-friendly appeal but with much less fussing. If you can brush, cut, and roll, you can’t mess this up. Once the dough is of even thickness, cutting a grid is the easiest way to divide it into equal pieces. And if they’re slightly irregular, no one will ever notice.

Does this dough need to be brushed with more butter? Why, yes! Otherwise the cinnamon sugar wouldn’t have anything to stick to.

Repeating the buttering and sugaring on the second side isn’t just fair, it ensures each bite is evenly sweetened.

It doesn’t matter if the pieces aren’t all perfect spheres. In fact, it’s part of what makes this monkey bread so fun to pull apart.

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prep school

Get a small wooden dowel at any hardware store.

FROM P. 96

R E A L LY ROLLING A series of rolls and twists is what gives Filipino ensaimadas their spiraled snail-shell shape. Roll each piece of dough out to a long rectangle, then brush with butter and sprinkle with cheese. around the dowel until you get to the bottom. Dough will be thickest in the center and narrower at each end. Slide it off the dowel, then coil it onto itself and place in a muffin pan cup. As it bakes, the narrow top will curl up and out like the handle of a spinning top.

FROM P. 89

O.J. Upgrade Our blood orange shortbread cookies get sweet-tart flavor and a perfectly pink tint from the jewel-toned juice of blood oranges, which also have less acidity than a standard navel or juicing orange. They’re in season in winter, but if your market doesn’t stock them, look for bottled blood orange juice instead, then have fun with what’s left over. Yes, you can drink it or use it to replace half the lime juice in a margarita or make a vinaigrette to dress roasted beets or sweet potatoes.

FROM P. 82

SHAPE AND BAKE To make a tight, even cylinder of dough for slice-and-bake cookies, parchment paper and a bench scraper are your friends. Shape the dough into a rough log, then transfer to a sheet of parchment paper. Fold the paper over and wedge the scraper (or a ruler) into the crease where the dough meets the surface.

Angle the straight edge against the dough while you pull on the bottom of the paper, creating light tension that sculpts the log.

FOOD STYLING BY ANNA BILINGSKOG. ILLUSTRATIONS: CLAIRE MCCRACKEN (BAKING SODA, BAKING POWDER, SCALLOP, BLOOD ORANGE JUICE); BRUCE HUTCHISON (PORK BELLY, MONKEY BREAD, COOKIE DOUGH).

Place a dowel at a slight angle at the top end of the dough. Roll

recipe index

sourcebook

COOK THE COVER

VEGE TARIAN

SHOPPING LIST

Frosted Malt-Chocolate Biscuits p. 88

Curried Lentil, Tomato, and Coconut Soup p. 70 Polenta Cacio e Pepe p. 48

BEVERAGE

White Negroni p. 38 BREAD

Ensaimadas p. 96 Monkey Bread p. 46 SALAD

Quinoa Bowl with Lentils and Mustard Vinaigrette p. 58 SOUPS

Cauliflower Soup with Hazelnuts and Bacon p. 14 Curried Lentil, Tomato, and Coconut Soup p. 70 Good Luck Beef and Korean Rice Cake Soup p. 108 MAIN COURSES SEAFOOD

Seared Scallops with Brown Butter and Lemon Pan Sauce p. 52 Slow-Roasted Salmon in Parchment Paper p. 16 MEAT

Bistek with Onions and Bay Leaves p. 99 Embutido p. 96 Good Luck Beef and Korean Rice Cake Soup p. 108 Indian-Spiced Pork Roast with Rosemary and Onions p. 108 Mamaleh’s Brisket p. 111 Miso- and MayoMarinated Short Ribs with Spicy Sauce p. 50 Pork Tamales Rojos p. 64 Roast Pork Belly with Chile Vinegar p. 96 POULTRY

12-Minute Saucy Chicken Breasts with Limes p. 54

VEGETABLES, SIDE DISHES

New Year’s Day BlackEyed Peas p. 109 Seared Radicchio and Roasted Beets p. 96 Sweet and Tangy Collard Greens p. 109 MISCELLANEOUS

Coconut and Crispy Chickpea Trail Mix p. 58 Salted Buttered Pecans with Orange and Nutmeg p. 109 DESSERTS

Bittersweet-Chocolate Truffles p. 108 Blood Orange and Poppy Polenta Shortbread p. 89 Flan with Grapefruit p. 99 Frosted Malt-Chocolate Biscuits p. 88 Granola Cluster Cookies p. 89 Hazelnut Lace Sandwich Cookies p. 88 Honey-Vanilla Linzer Cookies p. 82 Honey-Vanilla Sablé Dough p. 82 Jam-Filled Challah Doughnuts p. 109 Monkey Bread p. 46 Orange Zeppole p. 12 Pistachio Thumbprints p. 82 Salted Caramel Sauce p. 56 Spiced Molasses Cookies p. 88 Ube (Purple Yam) Candies p. 99

FOR NUTRITIONAL INFO FOR THE RECIPES IN THIS ISSUE, GO TO BONAPPETIT.COM/RECIPES

BRAISEWORTHY pp. 110–111 CARVING SET $95; jungleeny.com

TRAVEL PLANNER EDITOR’S LETTER p. 10 JOSEPH LEONARD 170 Waverly Pl., NYC; 646-429-8383; josephleonard.com R.S.V.P. pp. 12–16 THE BAZAAR 1701 Collins Ave., Miami Beach; 305-455-2999; sbe.com GIADA 3595 S. Las Vegas Blvd., Las Vegas; 855-442-3271; giadadelaurentiis.com/vegas MORCILLA 3519 Butler St., Pittsburgh; 412-652-9924; morcillapittsburgh.com RIDER 80 N. Sixth St., Brooklyn; 718-210-3152; riderbklyn.com SUPPER 136 E. Grayson St., San Antonio; 210-448-8351; supperatemma.com TIPO 182 Ocean Ave., Portland, ME; 207-358-7970; tiporestaurant.com WATERFRONT WINES 1180 Sunset Dr., Kelowna, British Columbia; 250-979-1222; waterfrontrestaurant.ca COOK LIKE A PRO p. 26 FELIX 1023 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, CA; 424-387-8622; felixla.com CITY GUIDES: NYC pp. 72–76 ACHILLES HEEL 180 West St., Brooklyn; 347-987-3666; achillesheelnyc.com THE AVIARY NYC Mandarin Oriental, 80 Columbus Circle; 212-805-8800; aviarynyc.com BALTHAZAR 80 Spring St.; 212-965-1414; balthazarny.com BAR GOTO 245 Eldridge St.; 212-475-4411; bargoto.com THE GRILL 99 E. 52nd St.; 212-375-9001; thegrillnewyork.com LE COUCOU 138 Lafayette St.; 212-271-4252; lecoucou.com ROLF’S 281 Third Ave.; 212-473-8718; rolfsnyc.com VINI E FRITTI 30 E. 30th St.; vinifritti.com MERRY & BRIGHT pp. 90–99 MISSION CHINESE FOOD For locations, go to missionchinesefood.com A FEW OF OUR FAVORITE THINGS pp. 100–109 BATEAU 1040 E. Union St., Seattle; 206-900-8699; restaurantbateau.com BUVETTE 42 Grove St., NYC; 212-255-3590; ilovebuvette.com C. ELLET’S 2605 Circle 75 Pkwy, Atlanta; 678-996-5344; c-ellets.com CHAI PANI 22 Battery Park Ave., Asheville, NC; 828-254-4003; chaipaniasheville.com

CHEF & THE FARMER 120 W. Gordon St., Kinston, NC; 252-208-2433; vivianhoward.com FIG 232 Meeting St., Charleston, SC; 843-805-5900; eatatfig.com HENRIETTA RED 1200 Fourth Ave. N., Nashville; 615-490-8042; henriettared.com INSA 328 Douglass St., Brooklyn; 718-855-2620; insabrooklyn.com MI TOCAYA ANTOJERÍA

2800 W. Logan Blvd., Chicago; 872-315-3947; mitocaya.com POOLE’S 426 S. McDowell St., Raleigh, NC; 919-832-4477; ac-restaurants.com/pooles THE PURPLE HOUSE 378 Walnut Hill Rd., North Yarmouth, ME; 207-808-3148; thepurplehousebakery.com ROSE’S LUXURY 717 Eighth St. SE, Washington, D.C.; 202-580-8889; rosesluxury.com SISTER PIE 8066 Kercheval St., Detroit; 313-447-5550; sisterpie.com STATE BIRD PROVISIONS

1529 Fillmore St., San Francisco; 415-795-1272; statebirdsf.com UNDERBELLY 1100 Westheimer Rd., Houston; 713-528-9800; underbellyhouston.com ZAHAV 237 St. James Pl., Philadelphia; 215-625-8800; zahavrestaurant.com BRAISEWORTHY pp. 110–111 MAMALEH’S 1 Kendall Sq., Cambridge, MA; 617-958-DELI; mamalehs.com THE EATING SEASON pp. 112–121 AGRIKOL 1844 Amherst St.; 514-903-6575; agrikol.ca AU PIED DE COCHON RESTAURANT

536 Duluth Ave. E.; 514-281-1114; aupieddecochon.ca CHESKIE BAKERY 359 Bernard St. W.; 514-271-2253 DAMAS RESTAURANT

1201 Van Horne Ave.; 514-439-5435; restaurant-damas.com FLETCHERS ESPACE CULINAIRE 4040 St. Laurent Blvd.; 514-840-9300; imjm.ca FOXY 1638 Notre Dame St. W.; 514-925-7007; foxy.restaurant HOF KELSTEN BAKERY 4524 St. Laurent Blvd.; 514-649-7991; hofkelsten.com JOE BEEF 2491 Notre Dame St. W.; 514-935-6504; joebeef.ca LARRYS 9 Fairmount Ave. E.; larrys.website NORA GRAY 1391 St. Jacques St. W.; 514-419-6672; noragray.com SCHWARTZ’S 3895 St. Laurent Blvd.; 514-842-4813; schwartzsdeli.com WILENSKY’S LIGHT LUNCH 34 Fairmount Ave. W.; 514-271-0247; wilenskys.com

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13 0  D E C E M B E R 2 0 17 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 8

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1,631,801

1,638,787

1,293,681

1,293,646

65,951

68,959

1,359,632

1,362,604

141,889

150,168

(2) Free or Nominal Rate In-County Copies included on PS Form 3541

(3) Free or Nominal Rate Copies Mailed at Other Classes Through the USPS

(4) Free or Nominal Rate Distribution Outside the Mail

10,588

13,015

e. Total Free or Nominal Rate Distribution

152,477

163,183

1,512,109

1,525,787

119,691

113,000

1,631,801

1,638,787

89.92%

89.31%

b. Paid Circulation (1) Mailed Outside-County Paid Subscriptions Stated on PS Form 3541 (2) Mailed In-County Paid Subscriptions Stated on PS Form 3541 (3) Paid Distribution Outside the Mails Including Sales Through Dealers and Carriers, Street Vendors, Counter Sales, and Other Paid Distribution Outside USPS (4) Paid Distribution by Other Classes of Mail Through the USPS

c. Total Paid Distribution d. Free or Nominal Rate Distribution (1) Free or Nominal Rate Outside-County Copies included on PS Form 3541

f. Total Distribution g. Copies Not Distributed h. Total i. Percent Paid j. Paid Electronic Copies

32,300

30,735

k. Total Paid Print Copies (line 15c) + Paid Electronic Copies

1,391,931

1,393,339

l. Total Print Distribution (line 15f) + Paid Electronic Copies

1,544,409

1,556,522

90.13%

89.52%

m. Percent Paid (Both Print & Electronic Copies) 7. I certify that all information furnished on this form is true and complete. (Signed) David E. Geithner, Vice President and Treasurer

T H E L AS T B I T E

Neil Patrick Harris How do you celebrate the holidays? The best part of waking up THE VITALS

When he was growing up in New Mexico, Neil Patrick Harris’ family started every Christmas morning the same way: with a giant breakfast of scrambled eggs, lots of bacon, and, his favorite, cinnamon rolls. “They were the ones from…the little guy,” he says, by which he means the Pillsbury Doughboy (real name: Poppin’ Fresh). The best part? Icing the tray of piping-hot pastries straight out of the oven. “ That was terribly exciting,” says Harris, who appears in Alexander Payne’s sci-fi comedy Downsizing this

December. “ We rarely did that except Christmas morning.” Over time, rarely became never and the long-held childhood tradition was eventually forgotten. Until now. This year Harris and his husband of three years, David Burtka, plan to revisit the custom with their seven-year-old t wins, Harper and Gideon. “David is a chef, so we will probably go a little more bespoke,” Harris says. “ The idea of a nice homemade cinnamon roll on Christmas morning sounds divine right now.”  M A X W E L L L O S G A R P H OTO G R A P H BY A L E X L AU

FOOD STYLING BY CLAIRE SAFFITZ. ILLUSTRATION BY JOE WILSON.

Hometown Ruidoso, NM Comfort food Mom’s noodle casserole Holiday Once you nightmare pop… Finding halflicked candy canes in his kids’ pockets Can’t resist Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups