Stowaway part 4

Hanami Celebrating Transient Beauty in Japan After a day of work in Osaka, Japan, Laurel Armstrong of Minneapolis, Minnesota, got on her bike to head home, winding through the city’s busy streets toward her high-rise apartment complex. She had been living in this Japanese metropolis for almost a quarter of her one-year work contract and had grown accustomed to the gray, austere metal of the city’s skyline and its almost incessantly overcast weather.

As Armstrong rode past a wide alleyway, her thoughts of dinner that night were suddenly interrupted; her eyes caught sight of something white and brilliant moving softly, stark against the alley’s monotonous slate walls. She stopped her bike and walked through the alleyway and soon found herself surrounded by a gentle, steady shower of cherry blossoms. A man standing nearby, also pausing to admire the soft stream of flowers, turned to Armstrong

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with a smile and explained, “It is the season of sakura.”

The reverence that locals and travelers feel toward Japan’s exquisite natural beauty—especially toward the Japanese Cherry, its most symbolic and well-known flowering tree—is what makes the springtime in this country so special. “If you’re going to go to Japan,” says Greg Wilkinson, a former professor of East Asian Studies at the University of Arizona, “go at the end of March because that’s when the sakura are in full bloom.”

In northern Japan, the blooms may come later—in April or May— but hanami, which literally means “to look at flowers,” usually occurs at the end of March and is a Japanese Shinto festival that celebrates nature, family, friends, and beauty.

Anticipated nationwide in Japan, hanami commences when the sakura, or cherry blossoms, begin to appear.

In fact, the Japanese watch weather

forecasts almost religiously leading up to hanami in order to plan their celebrations. Newspaper and TV weather reports often predict if hanami will come earlier or later than in other years, and even Japan’s most stringent workers are known to take afternoons or long weekends off to celebrate the holiday.

In the last three years, however, hanami has taken on new meaning and ignited controversy throughout the country. After Japan’s devastating earthquake and subsequent tsunami and nuclear plant disasters on March 11, 2011, the nation went into a state of mourning. The feelings associated with 3/11 in Japan are comparable to those of 9/11 in the United States.

Just as the United States held off on events like professional sporting games and comedy shows immediately following 9/11, many Japanese have felt that the somewhat rambunctious and celebratory nature

culture

For those not able to venture quite so far east, cherry blossom festivals are also held in regions throughout the United States.

Brooklyn, New York Sakura Matsuri, the annual cherry blossom festival at Brooklyn Botanic Garden, offers more than 60 events celebrating Japanese culture.

Photo by Leslie Taylor

While Japanese parks and Shinto shrines lay out blue tarps under cherry trees for the public, some families enjoy hanami with quiet picnics in more secluded areas.

of hanami does not appropriately commemorate the loss and devastation of 3/11. Most Shinto shrines and other groups still sponsor the event, though some have tried to tone down the festivities to show respect for the country’s loss during that period.

Kiyiko Saito Sparks, a Japanese native who lived in Tokyo until she was 25, has fond memories of celebrating hanami with her family.

“We would pack up our favorite foods and other goodies and take the train out of the city to somewhere we could enjoy nature,” she says.

Most hanami festivals are sponsored by parks or local Shinto shrines that lay out blue tarps underneath their sakura trees and allow vendors to sell food, clothing, and, of course, sake (rice liquor).

Many families also take home fallen blossoms or branches from the sakura trees as souvenirs.

The significance of viewing the cherry blossoms in Japan dates back to references in the famous eleventh-century novel The Tale of Genji and has been an integral part of the nature-centric culture since.

In Japan, transience is the purest and most desired form of beauty: Japanese literature is replete with stories of unrequited love; the allure

is found in both love’s potentiality and its impossibility. Thus, the cherry blossom, which remains in bloom for only about two weeks, is what Wilkinson calls Japan’s “national aesthetic symbol.”

Hanami, then, is a celebration not only of the manifest beauty in Japan but also of the traditional Japanese perspective on beauty itself. The holiday is widely celebrated throughout the country, and most citizens consider it to be more of a cultural celebration than a religious one.

“Hanami is a much less organized or ritual-based festival than other Shinto matsuri [festivals],” says Wilkinson. “It’s a lot more inclusive.”

For those looking to participate in a Japanese matsuri without knowing much about Shintoism, this may be the right festival to attend. Regardless of the reasons visitors attend the festival, the splendor of the cherry blossoms fosters an appreciation for the fleeting beauty that recurs each year only during hanami. Says Sparks, “It is a very Japanese celebration because the Japanese love and respect nature.”

—Natalie Taylor

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bbg.org/visit/event/ sakura_matsuri_2014

Macon, Georgia Yoshino Cherry Trees are cele­ brated during the city’s 10-day International Cherry Blossom Festival. ▶▶

cherryblossom.com

Washington, DC Since the 1910s, Japan has donated more than 6,000 cherry blossom trees to the capital city, which hosts the National Cherry Blossom Festival annually. ▶▶

nationalcherry­ blossomfestival.org

San Francisco, California Held in one of three remaining Japantowns in the United States, the Northern California Cherry Blossom Festival closes its celebrations with a grand Japanese-style parade. ▶▶

nccbf.org

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Dharamsala Tibetan Spirit Reborn

I hobbled out like a hungover sailor shaking out my sea legs. And there I was, in Dharamsala, India—a cluster of brightly colored restaurants and guesthouses all stacked up on top of each other like a patchwork quilt—something between a city and a village nestled on the green mountain ridges, a place in transit, a sanctuary for the homeless, the country-less. The street was packed with maroon-clad monks and dreadlocked, tattooed hippies, Tibetan seniors waving their canes at oncoming traffic as they tried to get to the Dalai Lama’s temple, and then the occasional dazed traveler.

—Rachael Rueckert, BYU Field Study Coordinator

On the surface, Dharamsala, India, looks like the perfect tourist destination for curious Westerners to discover their own spirituality. The forested foothills of the Himalayas in northern India seem like a likely place for this sort of exploration. Dharamsala is a destination for religious tourists seeking enlightenment or a pit stop for backpackers interested in a hot meal and cheap hostel. It shelters a confusing conglomeration of people with very different backgrounds, worldviews, and reasons for being in this city of outcasts.

However, behind all the tourist shops, the city is steeped in the spirit of sacrifice and faith. The real story behind this place is found in the amazingly dedicated Tibetan Buddhists who risked everything to escape political turmoil, to build a magnificent temple, and to be with their spiritual leader, the Dalai Lama.

These refugees have given up their homes and possessions to start over again in Dharamsala—a reincarnation of traditional Tibet.

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Finding Holy Shelter

Dharamsala is a Hindi word meaning “holy dwelling,” which refers to the shelters adjacent to their temples that house visiting pilgrims. Fittingly, this Indian city has sheltered thousands of Tibetan refugees since 1959, when the Dalai Lama led his followers out of their home country to escape intense religious and cultural persecution. The area is still a refuge for Tibetans escaping hardships in their home country and is the heart of Tibetan Buddhism.

While volunteering as an English teacher, Rachel Rueckert spent three months in Dharamsala, learning many of these people’s stories. The family who housed her included one of the first refugees who crossed into Nepal through the Himalayas in the dead of winter—on foot. Rueckert knew her only as Grandma.

Although today Grandma waves her cane at traffic on her way to the temple, 50 years ago she was thinking of the family members and neighbors whom she lost in the revolution

or who starved to death. Nearly six thousand monasteries and temples were burned, monks were jailed, and their culture was systematically eliminated. Grandma and hundreds of others like her were unable to endure any more persecution. So they decided to escape to sympathetic India. Arriving with nothing but tents and their cultural heritage, these displaced Tibetans began building Dharamsala into a home.

Gathering the Faithful

Even today, sacrifice and devotion infuse the city with cultural and spiritual vitality as newcomers arrive from Tibet. For example, Norbu is a 26-year-old monk with a missing front tooth, a quick wit, and a habit for laughing at moments his elders considered inappropriate. He fled Tibet when he was 19 without even telling his parents beforehand.

During her stay in India, Rueckert learned Norbu’s story.

“You didn’t tell your family?”

Rueckert asked him.

culture

Blanketed over the folds of the Dhauladhar mountian range, Dharamsala’s colorful buildings make up the great bastion of Tibetan Buddhism.

Photography by Rachel Rueckert

“No!” he giggled, slapping his robe-covered knees. “But they are happy I did not tell them. They would worry too much, and I am safe and happier here.”

In this city of faith and sacrifice, the reincarnated Tibetan spirit inhabits Dharamsala, as shown through Norbu and other religious refugees. This spirit of faith resides in the faithful—from the aged to the young—who visit the temple each evening. This spirit resides in a 90-year-old woman, who resolutely performs her physically demanding prostrations every day. As the air cools, these refugees walk the path that circles the temple, worshipping and improving their karma.

Experiencing Dharamsala Authentically While gathering stories, Rueckert hoped to experience Dharamsala authentically. Like the Dalai Lama, she believes that different religions and cultures can learn from each

other and better understand their own spiritual practices through their interaction. However, she also learned the dangers of romanticizing this spiritual experience, glossing over Buddhism’s intricacies, and inventing a convenient westernized version of this complex culture.

Visitors are more likely to enjoy an authentic experience in Dharamsala if they recognize that the traditions and beliefs of other cultures are not easily understood—and if they arrive in Dharamsala without expectations and with an attitude of welcoming surprises.

When visitors take the time to appreciate cultural diversity and to communicate with the locals—by becoming involved in such activities as volunteering to teach English, asking polite questions, or even becoming a shop owner’s favorite customer—visitors will learn that everyone here has a story worth hearing. When visitors participate in religious services respectfully and intelligently, they may even feel their

karma increasing as they walk around the Dalai Lama’s temple in this holy dwelling place.

—Dallin Law

Monks hike around the temple as part of a ritual called Kora to improve their karma.

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Bite of Philly Cheesesteaks exist as an edible symbol of the working class, a paragon of democratic virtues all stuffed inside an authentic Amoroso roll. Nothing makes a Philadelphian madder than a misrepresentation of the cheesesteak. So how can an avid hoagie-consuming tourist find a decent cheesesteak?

Here are the five most popular places, their prices, and a star rating assigned

by Stowaway .

The Perfect Cheesesteak

Geno’s sits across the street from Pat’s, and the two shops wage a neighborly war over the quality of their cheesesteaks (and the number of customers who swing through their doors). Still, Geno’s suffers from the same problems that Pat’s does— too many tourists and not enough condiments.

Where to Find It

The good news is that there are literally thousands of places to find a good cheesesteak. “When you are in Philadelphia, you can get a cheesesteak just about anywhere,” says former Philadelphia resident Kade Riley. “Almost every corner store and pizza shop sells cheesesteaks.”

How to Order

At Pat’s King of Steaks, ordering correctly is crucial. Pat’s is the originator of the cheesesteak and is arguably the most famous seller in Philly. Here, customers are regularly sent to the back of the line if their ordering style isn’t up to par.

But don’t worry: ordering a cheesesteak is a skill that can be mastered. First, decide how many cheesesteaks you want. Second, choose your cheese. At most places, you’ll be able to choose from American, whiz, or provolone cheese.

Third, decide if you want onions.

To order, simply put all three together, thusly, as indicated on a sign at Pat’s: “One whiz wit” or “two provolone witout.” And take note: calling the sandwich a Philly or a Philly cheesesteak will instantly peg anybody as an outsider. Always refer to the sandwich as a steak or a cheesesteak.

—Bekah Claussen

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Pat’s King of Steaks $8.50 «««« The experience is really what you’re paying for here. You’ll get an okay cheesesteak, but it’ll be served with a generous side of Philly attitude and a blast of neon lights. Keep in mind also that Pat’s is often inundated with tourists, there is limited variety, and it’s sometimes difficult to get what you actually want.

Jim’s Steaks $7.45 ««««« With three locations throughout the city, Jim’s Steaks is one of the easiest shops to find. Their friendly service and low-stress environment make Jim’s a favorite of natives. To top it all off, Jim’s steaks have some of the best flavor in town. Lines aren’t usually long here, but expect the South Street location to be the busiest.

Gooey Louie’s $6.95 ««««« The cheapest cheesesteak on this list by far as well as the biggest. Fortunately for hungry cheesesteakers, Gooey Louie’s also consistently delivers some of the best cheesesteaks in Philly. Make sure to bring some friends; you’ll want to share these enormous sandwiches.

Photo by Yurilong

This question isn’t as simple as it may seem at first. Cara Schneider, a member of the Department of Tourism, puts it this way: “The art of cheesesteak preparation lies in the balance of flavors, textures, and what is often referred to as the ‘drip factor.’” That famous drip factor—the amount of grease—is what sets an average cheesesteak apart from a superb one.

If you are feeling adventurous, duck into any corner store and give their concoction a try. You just might find your favorite cheese­steak masterpiece.

Geno’s $9.50 «««

Savor the Flavor of the Crescent City

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Walking into the restaurant, guests are immediately greeted with a whiff of onion, garlic, and cayenne pepper.

Their ears fill with Louis Armstrong’s scatting. Dimly lit lamps tinted with vibrant colors hang low over the café-style seating. Guests might as well be in New Orleans—all that’s missing is the humidity.

But Boudreaux’s Bistro isn’t in New Orleans, the “Crescent City.”

This Cajun bistro is in Payson, Utah, an hour south of Salt Lake City. It’s one of many New Orleans–influenced eateries that are popping up in cities all over the United States. The owner’s goal is to show his guests that Cajun food is an experience, not just a flavor—and that taste is good no matter where you get it.

Centuries ago, French Canadian settlers emigrated to what is now southeast Louisiana and brought with them a love for blended spices and seafood. Over time, several different cultures combined their culinary styles with these French Canadian flavors, and Cajun food became central to a new culture.

New Orleans native and owner of Boudreaux’s Bistro, Chris Sorensen, explains what technically defines food as Cajun: “The main ingredients are what Cajun chefs call the trinity: onion, bell pepper, and celery. They call garlic the pope.” The Cajun trinity may qualify a dish as Cajun, but the flavor rarely stops there.

New Orleans recipes are also famous for their cayenne pepper, crushed red pepper flakes, and colorful blends of several spices. But Sorensen emphasizes that although “people automatically think that Cajun Creole food is way too spicy,” it’s not really. “It has a little bite to

it,” he explains. “But if it’s too hot, then it’s not cooked right.”

Cajun chefs often pair spicy flavors with beans, rice, and vegetables in stews or other dishes to give the spice a hearty base. If you’ve ever experienced a real Cajun dish, you’ll know that the flavor is unmistakable and well worth a trip to a Cajun restaurant like Boudreaux’s.

Cajun Explosion In recent years, Cajun food has become so popular that most Cajun restaurants have joined forces with another food genre found in Louisiana: Southern food. This new Cajun-Southern hybrid genre is popular both inside and outside New Orleans. In his Utah bistro, Sorensen includes Southern classics like hush puppies and fried pickles, shrimp, and chicken on his menu to

complement the Cajun flavors and give guests a well-rounded New Orleans culinary experience.

Despite the widespread belief among foodies that Cajun food should never be eaten outside New Orleans, don’t be afraid to give it a try. Sorensen says that one of his favorite parts of the job is seeing someone new fall in love with the flavor of New Orleans from 1700 miles away.

“That’s why I keep an open kitchen,” he says, “so that I can talk to people all the time.” The spirit of Cajun food lies within an ever-­ changing culture that began with emigration and which continues to delight food lovers all over the world. ▶▶

boudreauxsbistro.biz

—Katie Laulusa

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Illustration by Samantha Long

Defining Cajun

basil Four Corners of the Kitchen Basil is not only one of the oldest herbs in the world but also one of the most romantic. In Italy, it is traditionally a sign of love: when a woman is ready to accept a suitor, she places a pot of basil on the balcony, signifying her intentions. In Thailand, many people believe that basil protects the body, rescuing it from harmful diseases. Americans have also added the herb to their palate—the Campbell’s tomato soup recipe was revised to include this flavorful ingredient. It is no wonder, then, that basil dishes from all around the globe inspire rich, exotic flavors for a perfectly romantic night in.

—Lexi Devenport

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Pesto Pasta Italy

Ingredients 3 medium cloves of garlic 1 large bunch of fresh basil ½ cup raw pine nuts ¾ cup Parmesan, loosely packed and freshly grated 1 ½ tablespoons of olive oil 1 pound of pasta

Directions

1. Finely mince garlic and basil leaves.

2. Chop pine nuts and add to garlic and basil.

3. Add Parmesan cheese to mixture and continue to chop. Mixture should be very fine.

4. Transfer pesto mixture to a small bowl, pour in olive oil, and set aside.

5. Cook noodles according to package directions and drain well. Stir in pesto. Serve.

Yield: 4 servings Total time: 45 minutes

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Spicy Basil Chicken and Tofu

Tomato Basil Soup

Fougasse

Vietnam

Ingredients

Ingredients

Ingredients

3 cups onion, diced 3 stalks celery, diced 5 carrots, chopped 3 large cloves of garlic, minced 2 cans fire-roasted tomatoes 2 cans tomato sauce 1 ½ cups heavy whipping cream 1 ½ cups chicken broth ¾ teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons fresh basil, plus extra to garnish 1 ½ teaspoons sugar 6 tablespoons olive oil

1 ½ cups warm water 1 ½ teaspoons dry yeast 4 cups all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons salt 5 tablespoons olive oil 1 teaspoon marjoram 1 teaspoon thyme 1 teaspoon savory 1 teaspoon dried basil 1 teaspoon rosemary 1 teaspoon sage ⅛ teaspoon fennel seed

Directions

Directions

Yield: 6 servings Total time: 50 minutes

Yield: 6 servings Total time: 2 hours

10 ounces firm tofu 1 skinless chicken breast ½ teaspoon cornstarch 2 teaspoons soy sauce 1 ½ teaspoons sugar 1 tablespoon water 1 ½ tablespoons fish sauce 3–4 tablespoons peanut oil 4–6 cloves garlic, minced 1 large shallot, thinly sliced 2–3 jalapeños, chopped finely 2 kaffir lime leaves, chopped finely 1 cup basil, lightly packed Salt and pepper to taste

Photo by Yamanaka Tamaki

Directions

1. Cut tofu into cubes and sprinkle with salt. Let drain for 15 minutes.

2. Cut chicken into pieces and transfer to a bowl. Then coat chicken with cornstarch and 1 teaspoon soy sauce.

3. In bowl, stir the remaining teaspoon of soy sauce with sugar, water, and fish sauce. Set aside.

4. Heat a large pan over medium-high heat. Evenly coat with two tablespoons of peanut oil. Add tofu and fry for 4 minutes. Transfer to plate.

5. Reheat the pan with two tablespoons of oil. Add garlic, shallot, and chicken. Let chicken sear on both sides. When chicken is nearly cooked through, add tofu and cook for 1 minute.

6. Add jalapeños and lime leaf, then pour soy and fish sauce mixture over everything. Stir-fry for 1 minute. Add basil. When leaves wilt, transfer to serving dish with rice.

Yield: 4 servings Total time: 1 hour

United States

1. Heat two tablespoons of oil in sauce pan on medium-high.

2. Sauté chopped onions, celery, and carrots. Add garlic and sauté for about one minute.

3. Add tomatoes, tomato sauce, cream, broth, salt, fresh basil, and sugar to the pan and stir. Let simmer for 25 minutes. Add salt and pepper if needed.

4. After the vegetables are soft, ladle the soup into a blender and purée until smooth. Serve with a sprinkle of fresh basil.

France

1. Add yeast to water and let rest for 10 minutes.

2. Stir 1 cup flour, all herbs, salt, and 3 tablespoons oil to yeast mixture.

3. Fold in rest of flour and knead for 10 minutes.

4. Place dough in bowl and cover with towel. Let rise until doubled, about 1 hour.

5. Heat oven to 450°F. 6. Place dough on floured surface.

Divide in half. Shape halves into 11” x 8” oval-shaped loaves and place on baking sheet.

7. Brush each with 1 tablespoon oil.

8. Cut four 2-inch-long horizontal sections starting from top and moving to bottom. Cut sections evenly apart on each side of oval without removing dough.

9. Pull dough apart at cuts so there are gaps between each cut.

10. Cover with cloth and let rise ​ for 20 minutes.

11. Put dough in oven. Bake loaves until golden, 18 minutes.

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 67

justinhackworth.com Wedding and engagement photography for discerning brides

Field Notes A tiny town in Peru is home to a perfectly symmetrical entreprenurial forest.

72

Biking Bavaria: Travel the Romantic Road

Cycle through Bavaria’s countryside and experience the old-world charm and beauty of its palaces, walled

Photo by Michael Curry

cities, and castles.

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Geocaching: A Modern-Day Treasure Hunt

76

Legal Nomad: An Interview with Jodi Ettenberg

78

Starfish Foster Home: Making a Difference One Child at a Time

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Tales from the Trip

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Photo Contest Winners

Learn about geocaching, the modern-day treasure hunt for any smart phone user.

Meet Jodi, a young New York lawyer turned traveler and street food connoisseur.

Discover the continued legacy of Amanda de Lange and her efforts to save hundreds of orphans in China.

Hear travel stories from Stowaway readers.

Take a look at Stowaway readers’ best photos from near and far.

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 71

Biking Bavaria

Travel the Romantic Road Thinking about the Germany of days past conjures up images of a lederhosen-wearing, beer-slinging, sausage-consuming folk. In Bavaria, the most southern of the German states, such scenes still pepper the countryside. Bavaria is also one of the most beautiful German states with its forests, rolling hills, and the Alps mountain range gracing its southernmost border. Capitalizing on Bavaria’s beauty, enterprising travel agents in post-war Germany created the Romantischestraße out of an old medieval trade route. Known in English as the Romantic Road, this highway stretches 221 miles through Bavaria and leads from Würzburg in the north to Füssen in the deep south.

The most authentically German way to explore the Romantic Road is by bike. The official Romantic Road travel agency, supported by the Federal Ministry of Economics and Technology, offers free GPS downloads of the bicycling route.

And there are several services that will cart your luggage from city to city so you don’t have to worry about anything except the bike and the scenery. Along the way, the road provides access to some of the oldest towns in Germany with rich cultural heritages to explore.

—Bekah Claussen

72 ▶ spring 2014

field notes

Würzburg

Start your journey in the scenic baroque town of Würzburg.

Despite heavy bombing during World War II, this city still offers one of the most splendid examples of baroque architecture in Germany: the Würzburg Residenz. This stately structure once housed Franconian prince-bishops and is now a tourist attraction boasting detailed stucco art and painted ceilings. Würzburg also hosts the first spring fair in Bavaria, held three weeks before Easter every year. Walk around the baroque- and English-style gardens for free. You can also enjoy carnival rides, games, food, and traditional dancing.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber 41 miles (66 km) south of Würzburg

From top: photography by John Abel, Clark and Kim Kays, Philip Eagle, and Chris Juden

The small town of Rothenburg ob der Tauber is one of only three remaining walled cities in Germany. Biking in this part of the country is relaxing because the route is flat and the bike paths are well marked along low-traffic country roads. Once you reach Rothenburg, you’ll be awed by its examples of perfectly preserved medieval architecture, city planning, and lifestyles. For two euros, you can climb to the top of the town hall tower, built in AD 1250, and experience an all-encompassing view of the city.

Nördlingen

56 miles (90 km) south of Rothenburg

Biking farther south, you’ll reach another famous walled German town, Nördlingen. This town is much smaller than Rothenburg and is decidedly less crowded. Interestingly, the town lies in a bowl caused by a meteorite impact, making the town feel more secluded.

Walk along the city walls for beautiful views of the city and the surrounding countryside.

Füssen

110 miles (177 km) south of Nördlingen

The farther south you travel along the Romantic Road, the hillier the path becomes. But don’t worry—it’s worth it. Nestled in the foothills of the Alps, Neuschwanstein (opposite page) is a nineteenth-century castle that towers over the town of Füssen.

Reaching this magnificent castle requires a short hike up a paved path. Walk to a footbridge off to the side and you can see Neuschwanstein in its entirety snuggled up against the Alps and the picturesque valley below. The castle is a perfect end to your biking trip through Germany’s most pristine country.

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 73

Geocaching Jeff Lambert from Baltimore, Maryland, discovered the world of geocaching in 2001 when his wife gave him a GPS for his birthday.

While mountain biking and fiddling with his new GPS in a state park, he came upon two people with GPS devices in their hands, scrambling around in the bushes as if searching for something. Curious, he approached them and learned that they were geocaching.

“When I got home,” he says, “I looked for the website and was intrigued by it.” Since he had always enjoyed utilizing maps, Lambert immediately joined the hunt—and he’s been geocaching for 12 years now.

74 ▶ spring 2014

A New Game The word geocaching combines two familiar treasure-hunting words: geo (meaning “earth”), used to describe the global nature of the game; and cache, used to describe a hiding place for supplies. Geocaching began in 2000, when the accuracy of GPS technology was significantly improved. At that time, thousands of GPS enthusiasts began experimenting on their upgraded devices.

For example, Dave Ulmer of Beavercreek, Oregon, wanted to test the accuracy of his GPS device, so he hid a navigational target in the woods. He even posted his idea

to GPS user groups, calling it the “Great American GPS Stash Hunt.”

To join in, all you had to do was hide a container in the woods and include the coordinates from your GPS unit so other people could find it. Fellow GPS enthusiasts could then locate the container but had to follow one rule: take something and leave something.

As the game became more and more popular, fellow geocacher Jeremy Irish from Seattle, Washington, created geocaching.com, enabling people from all around the world to both hide and find caches.

Those who choose to hide geocaches simply have to find some kind of container, include a pen

Photo by Tyler Olson

A Modern-Day Treasure Hunt

field notes

or pencil and paper in it, hide it, and post the GPS coordinates on the website so that geocachers can find it. Geocaches are made out of anything—literally. You can hide a rubber alligator geocache with only its stomach slit open to store the pencil and paper. Or if you’re feeling less creative, you can hide a standard geocache box that you can purchase online—a large army-green container with the words “Official Geocache” on its side. You can purchase a box with objects included, you can choose to put your own objects inside, or you can hide it with nothing but paper and a writing utensil.

Join the Hunt: These Days, It’s for Everyone Lambert’s nephew Mark Brown of Provo, Utah, always found his uncle’s geocaching adventures interesting, but he didn’t plan on joining because GPS devices were so expensive—that is, until the advent of the smartphone. Because Brown’s iPhone had a GPS device neatly integrated into it, geocaching quickly became a hobby for him, and within two months, he had found over 100 geocaches.

“When I finally started doing it, I thought it was the greatest thing ever,” he says.

If you own a smartphone, you won’t need a separate GPS device to start caching. Simply download an app and use the GPS device in your phone to locate millions of caches that are hidden in locations throughout the world. Geocaching has become the modern-day treasure hunt for anyone carrying a smartphone. It’s a fun activity for everyone—not just for pirates, gold miners, or topography fanatics.

What was once an intense hobby is now an activity for the average Joe or Jane. Geocaching is a popular hobby for college students because it is fun and inexpensive. You can even

compete in group activities—the group to find the most geocaches in an hour wins.

Caching and Traveling—at the Same Time A tap on your screen will direct you to the nearest cache in your area. Brown explains that finding caches “is easy because they are literally everywhere.”

The best part about geocaching is that it can range from an hour-long activity with a date to a rigorous twoday trip with your friends. Geocaches come in different types and levels of difficulty depending on their location.

You might have to hike for 10 miles to the middle of nowhere to find one geocache, but you might only have to get out of a car and walk a couple of yards for another—so choose whatever you’re up for.

It’s common for geocaching enthusiasts to combine traveling and geocaching. Lambert enjoys biking—he even has a portable bike that he has taken to China. “I tend to geocache when I bicycle, so the geocaches I find are close to trails,” he says. Brown also enjoys caching on vacation. While waiting for his fiancée to pick out a wedding dress in Alexandria, Virginia, he found a number of geocaches that treated him to history lessons about the city.

You may find a little downtime for catching up on your caching during your next trip as well. Whether you’re on a big road trip and need to stretch your legs or on a hike through a park, you can always take a few minutes to go caching. ▶▶

geocaching.com

—Lexi Devenport

Getting Started Don’t know where to start? Head over to www. geocaching.com and create an account— it’s helpful to familiarize yourself with the site.

Then you can download a free app—such as c:geo for Android phones or Geocaching Intro for iPhones— which locates all of the registered caches within a given radius of your location. If you really like geocaching and want more options, you can buy the full-version app called “Geocaching” for $9.99.

If that’s not enough, shop around on www. geocaching.com and find out about all the ways you can buy and use tools, geocaches, and objects called trackables. As you browse through geocaching.com or your new app, you’ll find there’s far more to geocaching than caches and GPS devices.

This website has all the resources you need to become an expert geocacher.

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LEGAL NOMAD An Interview with Jodi Ettenberg

In 2008, Jodi Ettenberg of Montreal, Canada, made the drastic decision to take a year off of working as a lawyer in New York City to travel the world—an adventure that has yet to end. Five years later, she is still traveling and documenting her stories on her popular travel website (legalnomads.com). Ettenberg’s experiences and writing have allowed her to rethink what happiness means to her and to pursue a career as a travel writer. She has even published a book, The Food Traveler’s Handbook, on how to eat safe, inexpensive, tasty food while traveling.

Stowaway caught up with Ettenberg between locations in India and Bangkok.

What lessons have you learned from your experiences?

I’ll mention a few highlights. An appreciation for the commonalities between humans in disparate places. An ability to sweat the small stuff a little less. The ability to learn through food, something I never did before. The incredible kindness of strangers in far-flung places. The staggering disasters we don’t read about in our local news, like corruption or political upheavals that are barely a blip at home. But, ultimately, the biggest impact is a wider perspective: seeing the world more fully and hopefully inspiring people to learn as much as they can in the time that they are given.

What keeps you from returning to your old life?

This new career and new life happened so organically for me, and I want to see where it goes. I’m not traveling constantly any longer like I was before—now I stay in places for five or six months at a time, writing and working on freelance gigs. It’s almost like mini expat-stints in places I love. So when that grows old or when I decide that I miss a more routine life, I can change course. But for now, it’s been incredibly rewarding.

While I am absolutely grateful—I did build this life after all—I’ve definitely traded things that society tells me are normal (house, car, one place to live, less street food at 2 AM) for what I do. That said, this life is 100% worth it to me. If it weren’t, I’d no longer be doing it.

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field notes

I’m still admitted as a lawyer. But I love what I’m doing now—and I love the serendipity of how my new career has progressed. I would have never thought that I’d be doing what I’m doing now. I would have laughed had you told me that I would be doing social media consulting work

or public speaking or taking mini food tours while writing about food all over the world. The flip side to the uncertainty is, of course, the wonderful freedom to follow opportunities that come my way, all the while working in fields I feel passionate about.

How does food factor into your travels?

I think it’s the history that surrounds food that I find most compelling, not just the culture. I’m interested in why people eat the way they do—how a certain set of mores came to be, how the spices or condiments on the table can be traced back to earlier eras in a country’s history. Food is the lens that gives me the most in terms of knowledge and the most in terms of connection.

Food is universal, and it is important just about everywhere. By recognizing this I’ve been honored with invites to weddings and have been welcomed into kitchens to learn how to cook for family get-togethers and festivals. I’ve experienced these amazing things because I took an interest in the food, asked questions, and tried to learn as much as possible. It has been infinitely rewarding for me. The book I wrote stemmed from these lessons, showing that food is the best tool out there to connect with a place.

Photography by Jodi Ettenberg

What advice would you offer to young travelers?

Have a buffer for the worst-case scenario, be it a skill set that you can draw on for work while traveling or a savings account that you can lean on if needed. For those who want to travel and work, there are some great teaching, mentoring, and fellowshipping opportunities out there to fund the experience.

Keep an open mind. Be respectful of local dress and customs. And remember that people across the world are more alike than we realize. ▶▶

legalnomads.com

—Shayla Johnson

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Starfish Foster Home

Making a Difference One Child at a Time

“But young lady, do you not realize that there are miles and miles of beach and starfish all along it? You cannot possibly make a difference.” The young woman listened, paused and then bent down, picked up another starfish and threw it into the sea, saying, “It made a difference for that one.” —Loren Eiseley quest to save orphaned children, and they became frequent volunteers as well as board members of Starfish Foster Home.

Amanda, a native of South Africa, had attended school at Brigham Young University. She later moved to Taiwan, where she taught English for seven years. Amanda then relocated to Xi’an, China, where she felt impressed to start her own foster home for special-needs orphans. Just a few short months later, in 2005, she brought home six babies—and Starfish Foster Home was born. In collaboration with local orphanages, Amanda took in sick babies, nursed them back to health, raised funds to pay for their medical care, and eventually found families for them.

Cindy McLaughlin cradles her newly adopted baby girl, Norma, in 2007.

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It was only through Amanda’s fierce love, dedication, and passion—as well as selfless service from individuals like the McLaughlins—that Starfish has fostered more than 100 babies, overseen 80 adoptions, and performed nearly 250 surgeries on children suffering from various diseases and birth defects. The McLaughlins’ daughter, Norma, was one of those babies, and four years later she is thriving in her new home. “You wouldn’t even know that she had a serious defect,” says Patrick. “She is a great kid.”

Tragedy Strikes

In January 2012, Patrick received a phone call from a hospital in China.

“That was the first I’d even heard that Amanda thought she had cancer,” he says.

“It was just terrible. It was our worst nightmare,” Cindy says.

“Amanda was the kind of person who never looked after herself. She always looked after the children first. She would always say, ‘I’m like a weed— nothing is going to happen to me!’”

But six months after her diagnosis, Amanda went into diabetic shock and passed away, leaving her babies, volunteers, and four grief-stricken board members wondering how they would keep alive the organization she had created.

Unfortunately, Amanda’s passing was not the only trial the Starfish community would have to endure.

According to Starfish Foster Home board member Deborah Coffey,

Photo by Patrick McLaughlin

In 2009, Patrick and Cindy McLaughlin had just sold a business and were traveling around the world. They wanted to make a lasting contribution and bring home a few memories along the way. But there was one thing the McLaughlins never expected to bring home with them: a baby girl.

It was by chance that the couple found themselves at a little-known foster home called Starfish in Xi’an, China. The foster home was run by Amanda de Lange, a six-foot-tall woman with long, thick, graying hair, a contagious giggle, and a passion unlike any the McLaughlins had ever seen. Upon getting to know Amanda and her cause, both Linda and Patrick were compelled to help her with her

field notes

Getting Involved ▶▶

How do I volunteer?

Starfish is always in need of volunteers to help keep Amanda’s cause alive and to ensure that their babies always have loving companionship. Visit www. starfishfosterhome.org to learn how you can help volunteer. ▶▶

What do volunteers do?

Volunteering at Starfish Foster Home, located in Xi’an, China, Foster children laugh and play in the halls of Starfish Foster Home in Xi’an, China.

would give you the opportunity to serve in many different ways, including holding, feeding,

Photo by Deborah Coffey

seven children were killed in a fire in a Chinese foster home unrelated to Starfish soon after Amanda’s death.

As a result, the Chinese government made stricter rules on foster homes and, devastatingly, sent most of the Starfish babies to local orphanages.

The Starfish volunteers and board members were heartbroken. But working with the Chinese government to adapt to their changing rules, the board members developed a better business model and ultimately kept Amanda’s legacy alive.

“Very few people in my life, after they have died, continue to be a part of my daily thinking,” Patrick says.

“The inspiration Amanda has given me is that she has helped a stubborn 51-year-old guy continue to fight the good fight on behalf of the kids.”

Patrick admits, however, that keeping up with Amanda’s energy will continue to be a challenge. “We will never match her passion,” he says.

“There aren’t many Amandas walking the face of the earth.”

Moving Forward

Thanks to hard work, tireless nights, and sheer determination, Starfish Foster Home is nearly back on its feet. The members of the board, including the McLaughlins, have visited China countless times; as

they rebuild the orphanage’s business model, they are able to comply with China’s standards. Coffey says that, instead of being one large home, the new Starfish will likely be a collection of apartments that house up to six babies at a time.

“We are keeping Amanda’s mission and values in the forefront,” Coffey says. “It’s going to have to be a little bit different now, but you move forward with that because the most important thing is the babies.”

Starfish is also working on securing a location for their new home.

As long as they take it day-by-day, Patrick says, there are great things on the horizon. “We have survived the past two years, which is the main thing,” he explains. “We are about to open up and blossom into something new, but we are going to take baby steps first.”

No matter the business plans or trials in the past, the priority at Starfish has been and always will be the welfare of the children—those who will become or have already become witnesses that one person can make a difference and that one child still matters.

—Sara Phelps

playing with, entertaining, and teaching the babies. You may also be asked to help with their health and physical development. Other tasks include administrative work, helping with maintenance around the home, painting, doing interior design, and cleaning. ▶▶

What can you expect?

Starfish will be able to accommodate all volunteers in dorm rooms for $9 each night (which includes a Chinese lunch).

Other amenities are also available courtesy of the foster home. The minimum stay is five working days, and volunteers are required to work at least five hours each day. In your spare time, you can visit plenty of historical sites near Starfish, such as the famous Terra Cotta Warriors. ▶▶

What will I need?

A tourist visa, health insurance, and a round-trip plane ticket.

For a more extensive list of items, visit www.starfishfosterhome.org and download the Volunteer Handbook.

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take flight Publish your travel photos and anecdotes in Stowaway magazine. See previous contest winners at www.stowawaymag.com.

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Tales from the Trip “Oy! You need to open the door!”

I could hardly hear the man who came to jump-start our truck. But as I wiped the foggy window with my sleeve so I could actually see him, I could tell by his expression that he was very annoyed with me.

For the previous couple of hours, my friend and I, along with four girls we were nannying, had been stuck inside the truck we had driven to Thorpe Park—England’s “Thrill Capital.” Inside the amusement park, we had spent an entire day being whipped back and forth on rides and making ourselves sick with concession-stand food. But we didn’t realize that the real thrill would begin as soon as we got in the truck to leave.

Except we couldn’t leave. The truck wouldn’t start. The battery had died. Its electronic lock system had also died, after we shut ourselves inside, so we couldn’t even get out of the truck.

“It won’t open,” I yelled through the window.

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“Well, unlock it then!” the man yelled back.

I could only imagine what was going through the man’s mind— something about how only dumb American girls could manage to lock themselves inside a truck.

As I tried communicating with the man using my best sign language and enunciation, I couldn’t help but wonder how we ended up in this situation. Before this summer excursion with my friend, I had pictured Buckingham Palace, Big Ben, rolling green fields, and British accents whenever I thought of England.

Instead, I had a blue truck, four panicking preteens threatening to break open the windows, and an unhealthy amount of underarm sweat. Some exotic excursion! No one told me to be prepared for this.

But then I realized something: isn’t that the point of traveling? I have been lucky enough to experience fun, beautiful, educational places.

However, the experiences I remember most vividly from any trip are usually the unplanned but laughably memorable ones.

Plan for the usual touristy attractions? Sure. Have an itinerary? Yes. But when the unplanned happens, just embrace it.

As I stared at the man through the truck window, my sheepish expression turned into suppressed giggles.

Before I knew it, the whole truck was full of uncontrolled snorts and laughs, which continued as the man eventually got us enough power to unlock the doors.

In no time, it seemed, we were out of the truck and taking deep gulps of cold, fresh English air. Through the tow truck windows and my tears of laughter, I enjoyed the green countryside the whole way home.

—Kate Sullivan Santa Rosa, California

Photo by Michael Wuensch

A Stationary Adventure

field notes

How Did I Get Here?

“The world is a book and those who do not travel read only one page.”

—St. Augustine Adjusting the height of my microphone, I cleared my throat nervously, running through my harmonies in my head. I looked out at the audience, squinting in the bright lights that shone directly at us. The small Paris nightclub was full, and all eyes were on my brother and me. My heart raced as my brother struck the first chord on his guitar. We started singing. At that moment I suddenly realized that I was actually singing at a nightclub in Paris. This was definitely an experience I never thought I would have. I asked myself, How did I get here?

Another one of these moments came on a warm summer night in Cinque Terre, Italy. My brother, my sister, and I explored the twisting, narrow roads and somehow found

ourselves on top of a building that overlooked the housetops of the quaint Italian village. Suddenly we heard a commotion in the street below us. As we peered over the edge of the building, we saw a big gathering of people holding candles.

Music started playing from inside a church, and the people began walking. Some of the people down below saw us and beckoned for us to join them. We eagerly did so. It was surreal to be walking in a thronging but reverent processional that weaved through the cobblestone streets. We soon stopped and gathered in a little square that overlooked the ocean. I never would have imagined myself in this situation.

Two years later, I had this same sensation as I stood in a cramped kitchen in a small town in the mountains of Sicily where I was living. My friend, Vito, and his family

had invited me over for dinner, so I offered to help as they were preparing the pasta. Vito assigned me the pasta-stirring job. I stirred and he talked. Being in his home with his family made me miss my family. Vito decided to teach me an old Italian song about the mothers of the world.

His rich voice filled the room; the steam and the aroma of the simmering sauce reached my nostrils; and suddenly, I felt at peace. This moment was perfect. Again I asked myself, How did I get here?

The world is full of experiences that cause us to stop and marvel. It doesn’t matter where your travels take you: as long as you venture out, you’ll have the chance to read from the world’s pages and learn things you never thought you’d learn.

singer’s voice evoked such emotion in me that, for the briefest moment, I felt sorrow.

The guide pulled out a hollow, wooden box and asked me to sit on it. “Serás el ritmo” (“You’ll be the rhythm”), he announced to the group.

He showed me a syncopated rhythm that was difficult to comprehend and afterwards taught the entire group a rhythm that they could clap with their hands. When we had mastered the rhythms, the guide began to wail again.

The sound, which had surrounded us before, now beat within us.

Finally, we crammed ourselves into a room to witness the full power of flamenco. The guitar began to play a sad song with quick-moving notes.

The singer began to wail but not with his full voice. Then a woman wearing a red dress walked into the center of

the room. Her face was intense, and deep within her eyes was a look of defiance. Suddenly, she stomped her foot on the ground, and the audience sat up in surprise. Soon she stomped faster, the guitar burst a string, and the singer wailed at full voice and beat his hands on a box.

In that moment, I realized that they weren’t just stomping on apples.

They were stomping against the injustice that surrounded them, the government of medieval Spain that had tried to control them, and the discrimination they experienced just because they were called gypsies.

Through it all, they never gave in to these struggles. To this day, they remain courageously defiant.

—Hillary Olsen Alpine, Utah

El Flamenco In my high school Spanish class, our teacher taught us folk dances from Spanish-speaking countries. When she taught us the flamenco, she flicked her wrist high in the air and said, “The gypsies stole fruit from the orchards in Spain. Raise your hand and pick a fruit, move your hand in front of your face, and take a bite out of the fruit. Now throw it on the ground! Stomp on it with defiance!

No one can tell you how to live!”

Years later at the Museum of Flamenco in Seville, Spain, I sat with my peers in a circle as our guide sang to us with sounds reminiscent of the Middle East. “Soy gitano” (“I am a gypsy”), he sang. The song was sad and was sung with an Arabic wail that danced among quarter tones; it was the song of flamenco. The winding notes and the loud wailing of the

—Kathryn Stubbs Las Vegas, Nevada

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photo contest

First Place Granja Porcón

High in the Andes, right outside of Cajamarca, Peru, lies a village of entrepreneurs.

The village is kept alive by two sources of income—the wildlife zoo and wood exports from 13 million hand-planted pine trees. Over 30 years ago, the mayor of the village came up with the idea to plant trees. Back then, the village was nothing but a few sheepherders and a dry, barren landscape. Today, Peruvians and foreigners travel from all over to visit the zoo (complete with baby panthers, condors, and other exotic animals) amidst the only Andean forest with perfectly aligned pine trees.

—Michael Curry Phoenix, Arizona

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Second Place Dinner

The markets in Bangbon, Bangkok, Thailand, are amazing in that they have everything a person could ever dream of. I guess all the little piggies went to the market.

—Leah Saycich Las Vegas, Nevada

Third Place Inception

Arch within an arch at the Alhambra in Grenada, Spain. Repetition is something that I love about Islamic art and architecture.

—Jeffrey Laidlaw Las Vegas, Nevada

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Insider

Once you master the subway system of New York City, getting around town will be a breeze.

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Ready to Run Learn about technical running apparel for a more enjoyable run.

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Homebodied by Fear: Five Tips for Dealing with Travel Anxieties

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The Take Home

Dreams of traveling the world are one step closer with these five steps.

Photo by Marco Derksen

Peruse through this helpful guide for bringing home souvenirs you’ll actually want to keep.

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Mastering the Metro

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On Pointe: Discover Ballet Competitions

Learn how to hop around the burrows of New York City like a native with these quick tips.

Find out a new way for travelers to explore the world of ballet.

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GasBuddy: Find Cheap Gas How to not let fueling up get you down.

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ReadytoRun Warm Weather The base layer is the most important part of your running apparel because it’s the closest layer to your body. In warm or hot weather, the base layer is the only clothing you wear. One if its main purposes is to help get rid of moisture and to prevent chafing.

“An essential that people don’t immediately think of is technical underwear,” Moody says. He recommends Brooks Runderwear®.

He also explains that “for girls, a breathable sports bra is a necessity.”

Running Balm For marathon-length races, products such as Bodyglide® balm “help reduce chafing in the places where you definitely don’t want to chafe,” says Moody.

Legwear The best legwear has two layers: a spandex compression liner and an outer lightweight short or skirt layer made from synthetic materials. The compression liner in legwear reduces the chafing that comes from the thighs rubbing against each other during a run.

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Tops Chafing can occur when clothes become wet and rub against the body. Cotton shirts are not a good choice for running apparel because they are heavy, hot, and absorbent. The best running shirts are made from synthetic materials like polyester, nylon, or spandex blends. These materials wick away moisture from the body, reducing both friction and chafing.

Compression Socks If you are prone to leg injury, compression socks are a worthy investment. They provide muscle support to prevent (or treat) shin splints and increase oxygen delivery to the leg muscles and venous return to the heart.

Photography by Michael Curry

Undergarments

insider

If you like to run, chances are you already own running shoes. But have you given as much thought to your running apparel? The clothes you wear can improve your long-distance running experience, even when you’re running close to home. And when you’re traveling, carefully chosen running apparel can make it easier and more comfortable to run in a climate you’re not used to, whether it’s really hot or freezing cold. Stowaway asked Danny Moody—a manager at Runner’s Corner in Orem, Utah, and a long-distance runner for more than 15 years—to offer his expert advice on the most essential running apparel. Here are Moody’s top picks.

Cold Weather When you run in cold weather, it is important to wear layers. Wear your regular base layer to provide compression and wicking, and then add more layers of clothing for warmth.

Tops Over your base layer comes the thermal layer, which consists of a long-sleeve shirt made from slightly heavier, warmer fabrics. An alternative to wearing this extra shirt is to wear compression sleeves or arm warmers, which often have the added bonus of pockets for keys, phones, or iPods.

For windy or rainy weather, add a shell layer, which is a paper-thin waterresistant jacket. Some runners actually use a trash bag for the shell layer because it is cheap and easy to discard, but it is decidedly less stylish.

Gloves and Hats Gloves and hats are a must for protecting fingers and ears when you’re running in cold climates.

Running Belt A runner’s pack or belt provides an easy way for you to carry your phone, keys, or water with you while you run.

Legwear There are two options for thermal legwear.

The first is a pair of running pants worn over shorts. “Running pants are semi-fit at the waist and tight at the ankles. They can create an air barrier around the legs and ultimately keep you warmer,” says Moody. The second option is a pair of running tights worn beneath shorts. Since they are skintight, they are lighter than pants and can help with blood circulation. The only drawback is that they are less resistant to cold.

—Sara Grasley www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 89

Homebodied by Fear Five Tips for Dealing with Travel Anxieties

The fear of flying is just one phobia that can keep travelers at home. What might seem like a dream vacation to some may feel like a daunting task for the millions of people with anxiety. Some face fears like agoraphobia (fear of being embarrassed or trapped in open or public places), aviophobia (fear of flying), claustrophobia (fear of being trapped in confined spaces), or pathophobia (fear of disease).

Anxiety is a real disorder, but it is possible to help anxious travelers keep worries under control. Janis Johnson, a licensed clinical social worker with 19 years of experience as a therapist and life coach in Utah, suggests five helpful tips.

Conquer

Johnson recommends facing fears rather than avoiding them. She suggests recalling fears that you have overcome in the past and applying those experiences to your present situation. For example, ask yourself, How did I get over the fear of moving away from my family? or How did I overcome my fears when I went on my work trip to Japan?

“If you can see yourself traveling and tolerating it—even looking forward to traveling—it helps,” says Johnson.

Write

Writing down your feelings can be a great way to understand where your fears may be coming from. Once you start to understand the source of your fears, you may be able to discover ideas to overcome them. For example, you might write, “When I am in the air, I am startled by the noises I don’t understand.” Then, to decrease your anxiety, try wearing headphones during your flight.

Visualize

“Try to picture yourself traveling and enjoying it,” says Johnson. The more specific you can create your vision, the more it will help you look forward to your trip, keeping your mind occupied with happy images rather than with negative “what if” scenarios.

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Self-Talk

Create a symbolic connection that helps you feel more secure while flying. For example, you might compare flying a plane to flying a kite. “When the kite is in the air, it is moving about, but science ensures it returns safely,” Johnson says.

After creating a story with a rational method to resolve the plot’s conflict, tell yourself this story before and during your trip. The unconscious part of your mind can hear the story and help you cope more effectively with your anxiety.

Breathe

Breathing exercises are one tool that can help you keep your body steady and calm. Psychologists suggest breathing in for four seconds, holding your breath for four seconds, and releasing for four seconds. Keeping this steady pattern can help keep your mind busy—and can keep your heart rate consistent and stable.

As you apply these tips during your travels, remember to be patient with yourself. As you learn to manage your anxiety better, you’ll find ways to travel a little farther than you thought you could before.

—Lauren Bryce

Photo by Éole Wind

As the winds howl violently, 350 passengers are jerked from side to side in their chairs around you. Your anxiety spikes with each sound of booming and banging from the undercarriage.

Your palms sweat as you grip the armrests of your seat, and your heart beats so loudly that you’re sure the people next to you can hear it too. This pounding in your chest doesn’t seem to rest until the wheels of the plane touch the runway.

insider

The Take Home It’s tough to find a souvenir that encompasses the life-changing experiences, memorable people, and indescribable sights that only travel provides. A few Google searches before your trip will help you avoid on-the-spot thoughts like, Maybe I’ll just buy a snow globe or an “I love Moscow” T-shirt—even though both gifts were probably made 14 time zones away. Here are some tips for taking home a piece of the places you visit and eliminating the stress of souvenir shopping.

—Shayla Johnson

Do research

The more you know, the more you can appreciate. Researching tourism boards, travel blogs, and travel sites like www.tripadvisor.com can give you an idea of what kinds of things are produced locally where you are traveling.

These are the souvenirs you will want to take home because they are authentic. Researching your destination’s culture, history, and customs can also be helpful so you are aware of what types of products to keep an eye out for, where to find them, and what to avoid while traveling.

Buy local You might be surprised that in a city like Paris, home to great artists like Claude Monet, you can find beautiful original canvas oil paintings done by Parisian art students at street markets for less than $20. Meaningful souvenirs like paintings can make fantastic gifts, and an inexpensive poster tube can provide an easy way to carry them home. This kind of souvenir can also give you the satisfaction of knowing that, in a small way, you’ve helped sustain the local economy. Ask the locals what a fair price to pay is so you don’t get ripped off or insult any of the vendors.

Be practical Ask yourself, Is this going to be useful when I get home? Could I buy it at home? Will it be significant to me beyond this moment? Something like a brass saucepan from Italy will be useful when you get home and will often remind you of the place where you bought it, the food you ate, and the people you met there. But a miniature statue of the Leaning Tower of Pisa is probably going to end up in the junk pile. Practical souvenirs are rewarding and will remind you of your travels long after the trip ends.

Photo by Neil Howard

Stay observant Keep an eye out for the perfect memento as you travel; don’t restrict yourself to half a day of shopping before your flight home. Even worse, don’t expect the 10 minutes in the airport’s overpriced, duty-free shops to provide satisfactory solutions. Ask locals or hotel staff and consult websites like www.lonelyplanet.com and www. fodors.com to find museum shops, open markets with street vendors, and secondhand stores. Then incorporate souvenir shopping into your trip—it could end up being your favorite part.

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Mastering the Metro New to the subway system in New York? Well, there’s no time to waste and no patience to spare in the Big Apple. New York’s subway, also known as “the train,” is the longest underground railway in the United States. Workers, tourists, and families commute on the train 24 hours a day, seven days a week—and it takes practice for a beginner to get around on it. Try these steps to help you keep up the cityslicker pace.

—Lauren Bryce

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1

Purchasing a MetroCard

2

Navigating the Subway Map

3

Taking Local vs. Express

The MetroCard is your ticket to the city, permitting you access to all subway stations in New York. Without it, you’re not getting on the train. You can purchase this pass with cash, a credit card, or a debit card at MetroCard Vending Machines located near subway entrances. These machines have user-friendly touch screens. You’ll pay $2.75 per ride unless you buy a week or month pass. Once you have purchased your MetroCard, it is polite to have it in hand before you reach the subway entrance to avoid holding up the lines.

Paper maps are available in many subway stations, but there are great map apps that are as easily accessible and as reliable—if not more so. Most New Yorkers use subway maps, digital or paper, so you’ll fit right in with one in hand. It’s a good idea to map out your stops before you head underground. This will give you time to find your way and prevent a panic if your mobile app doesn’t work underground. If you have questions about your map, ask somebody. Most passengers are willing to answer your questions if they have a few seconds to spare.

Local trains stop almost three times as often as express routes, so if you’re traveling a longer distance—from the Upper West Side to the Brooklyn Bridge, for example— you will want to take the express route. The subway should be able to get you anywhere in Manhattan in 30 minutes or less when navigated properly and when there are no delays. Also note that some express routes are changed to local routes on Sundays and in cases of construction. There should be announcements on the train to warn you of the more frequent stops.

4

Avoiding Empty Cars

5

Entering during Rush Hour

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Eating on the Subway

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Giving Up Your Seat

If you see a train with many packed cars and one empty car, you’re seeing what is often called a “bum car.” Whether it’s the smell, a fight, or a broken heater or air conditioner, there’s a good reason no one is jumping on that open car. Just take one of the crowded cars or wait for the next train. However, if you do find yourself in a bum car, “you can walk in between cars,” says Kimberly Vartan, who works in Manhattan. “You’re not supposed to, but people do it all the time.”

There is usually enough room for people to get on and off the subway simultaneously.

However, during rush hour—when the boarding traffic is substantially higher— stand aside to let people off the car before you board. This may save you from colliding with other hurrying passengers.

If you want to grab a snack on your ride from Uptown to Midtown, make sure your food doesn’t have a strong odor that might annoy the passengers around you. Even if you’re itching for some potent yellow curry, save it for later. Scent-free snacks like granola bars are a more courteous choice.

Just as your mother probably taught you, it is good etiquette to give up your seat for elderly people and pregnant women on the subway. From there, use your judgment on when to offer your chair. Karene Torgerson, who lived in New York for six years, admires the courtesy people sometimes show on the subway. “I honestly had people give me their seat when I was in heels,” she reports. “And that was very nice.”

If you follow these steps, you’ll fit right into the brisk flow of traffic without causing any jams.

From Yankee Stadium to Battery Park, and from Brooklyn Heights to Coney Island, the city that never sleeps is yours.

On Pointe

Discover Ballet Competitions

International ballet competitions provide an alternative experience for travelers with various tastes and budgets for the arts.

For patrons and lovers of the arts, attending high-caliber, live ballet performances without breaking the bank can be a challenge. International ballet competitions, however, which take place in the United States and in other countries throughout the world, allow you to see the world’s top aspiring dancers compete for scholarships, titles, contracts, and recognition on their journeys toward professional dancing.

Each ballet competition varies in its individual structure and length, but all follow a consistent pattern in price, flexibility, and atmosphere— prime reasons to consider attending a competition over a professional company performance.

Price

Held annually in the David H. Koch Theatre in New York City, the Youth America Grand Prix Finals are one of many competitions that offer exceptional dancing at a minimal cost, with ticket prices ranging from $25 to $45.

This may still seem pricey to some, but compared to the price of an American Ballet Theatre performance in the same theater—often $300 per ticket— the YAGP Finals are a terrific deal.

Sergej Neikshin and Margarita Demjanoka perform at the International Baltic Ballet Competition.

Flexibility

Ballet can sometimes stretch the patience and attention spans of little ones or other comrades who may not be as enthusiastic about dance as you are. At ballet competitions, most pieces are solos, pas de deuxs (duets), or small group numbers and normally last less than five minutes each.

Only care to see a few superstars of the event? It’s not rude to leave in between pieces at a competition.

Take a break to explore the city, and then come back in time to catch the performances you most want to see.

Atmosphere

Held every four years, the USA International Ballet Competition describes itself as a “two-week ‘Olympic-style’ competition.” For those not particularly fond of pointe shoes, Petipa, or pas de deuxs, this competitive atmosphere can provide enough excitement to keep the events compelling. Viewers can predict who they think will come out on top, providing an added element of fun to the world of ballet and a chance to glimpse the ballet stars of tomorrow.

International competitions to see this spring Youth America Grand Prix Finals April 9–10, New York City, New York ▶▶

yagp.org

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USA International Ballet Competition June 14–29, Jackson, Mississippi ▶▶

usaibc.com

Moscow International Ballet Competition June 10–19, Moscow, Russia ▶▶

moscowballetcompetition.com/en

Photo by Jack Devant

—Natalie Taylor

tips ＆ tricks

GasBuddy find cheap gas

Finding and paying for gas can consume time and money that could be better spent on hotels, food, and sightseeing. GasBuddy is a free app that helps travelers in the United States and Canada earn rewards and find the cheapest and closest gas stations so you can focus on your destination.

Photo by Randolf Rautenberg; Screenshots courtesy of GasBuddy

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GasBuddy’s “Find Gas Near Me” tool—the easiest and most frequently used feature on its home page—automatically pulls up gas prices near your location. You can also search for specific areas along your travel route to help find the best time and place to look for gas.

Arrange the price list by nearest or cheapest gas options using the Distance and Price buttons on the bottom left. You can also filter the list by specific fuel types using the Regular, Midgrade, Premium, and Diesel tabs above the price list.

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If you’re unfamiliar with the area, GasBuddy can also show where you are in relation to the listed stations. Switch from the List setting to the Map setting on the top tool bar to determine whether getting the cheapest gas is worth driving out of your way.

You don’t have to register for an account, but registering for one allows you to earn rewards points.

For every 1,000 points, you’ll get one entry in a weekly prize drawing for pre-paid gas cards or other prizes. Simply updating or posting a gas price will help you become eligible for savings.

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Royal

America Hearst Castle in California

Experience life as one of William Randolph Hearst’s celebrity guests in San Simeon, California. On the bus ride from the visitor’s center to the castle, keep a lookout for the roaming descendants of Hearst’s zoo animals—zebras, mountain goats, and elk. You can experience the enormous castle through one of four guided tours: the grand rooms, upstairs suites, cottages and kitchen, or evening tour. Each tour offers you glimpses of some 25,000 artifacts, including 500-year-old tapestries, Egyptian statues, antique Gothic ceilings, and other art pieces. After your tour, take time to explore the gardens and to see the stunning blue and gold mosaic of the Roman Pool. ▶▶

Iolani Palace in Hawaii

hearstcastle.org

In downtown Honolulu, visit Iolani Palace, once home to the last Hawaiian royals. You’ll enjoy the unique design of the palace, built in the late 1800s to introduce Hawaii as a modern and prestigious nation with a mixture of western, Asian, and Hawaiian influences.

Inside the palace you’ll find portraits of past kings and queens lining the Grand Hall, which leads to the red and gold Throne Room, the luxurious reception area called the Blue Room, and the elegant State Dining Room. Wander the grounds to discover the coronation pavilion; the Royal Mound, where Hawaiian chiefs are buried; and the Barracks, which house the gift shop and ticket office. Call ahead for reservations and check online for special events, such as Royal Hawaiian Band concerts. ▶▶

iolanipalace.com

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escapades

Craving castles? Royal residences aren’t exclusive to Europe—you can find them in the United States as well. From Venetian splendor to traditional châteaux, here are a few palatial homes you can tour.

—Eve Hart Smith

Boldt Castle in New York

Explore Boldt Castle, a monument to one man’s incredible capacity to love. The castle was meant to be a gift from millionaire George C. Boldt to his wife, Louise. But after Louise unexpectedly died in 1904, Boldt immediately stopped construction, and the structure was left unfinished for 73 years in Alexandria Bay on Heart Island. The castle has now been restored to pay tribute to Boldt’s original purpose. You can access the island by water taxi, private boat, or tour boat, and tour the main castle and its beautiful grounds. Stay for lunch and watch the comings and goings of water traffic on the St. Lawrence River for a relaxing afternoon. If you’re a boating enthusiast, you can pay a few extra dollars to visit the Boldt Yacht House and view an original 1892 steam yacht. ▶▶

boldtcastle.com

Biltmore House in North Carolina

Experience the French-influenced Biltmore House, nestled in the mountains of Asheville, North Carolina. You can take a self-guided house tour for a peek into the opulent lifestyle of a Vanderbilt heir. Expect to be amazed by a massive private library, lavish furnishings in some 250 rooms, and a unique collection of vintage clothing. Afterward, walk through the blossoming English-style gardens; then fill your shopping and refreshment needs at Antler Hill Village and Winery, located just three miles up the road. You can also hike up to 22 miles of estate trails or take a private fly-fishing lesson at one of the nearby ponds or lakes. With unlimited options available, the way you experience Biltmore is completely up to you. Since ticket pricing varies by season and day of the week, plan on buying tickets in advance to get a discounted rate. ▶▶

biltmore.com

Ca’ d’Zan in Florida

Visit Ca’ d’Zan—“House of John” in a Venetian dialect—a tribute to the gothic beauty of Venice, where circus icon John Ringling and his wife, Mable, loved to spend time. Ringling’s estate juts out into the waters of Sarasota Bay, resembling an Italian landscape. Enjoy a public tour and see frescoed ceilings, marble balustrades, ornately carved furniture, and pieces from the Ringlings’ impressive art collection. Your ticket will include admission to other parts of the Ringling estate, including the John and Mable Ringling Museum of Art and the Circus Museum. During the spring, catch one of many musical concerts at the historic Asolo Theater or plan a picnic on the bayfront promenade on the estate. ▶▶

ringling.org

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An angry clansman clad in highlander garb charged right at me. I was standing in the middle of the four-walled theater at Culloden Battlefield museum, watching a reenactment of the gruesome battle unfold before me. Jacobite clansmen beat their chests and rallied for their country. Then British soldiers annihilated the clansmen with cannons and other advanced weapons.

I couldn’t help but feel a little emotional; after all, these actors were representing my ancestors who had fought in this battle for the rights to their native land.

Before I actually traveled to Scotland, I had grand fantasies about what it would be like to explore the country of my ancestry: to see misty mountains dotted with purple

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heather, to visit deep and expansive lochs, to hear enough bagpipe music to fill my little Scottish soul. Luckily, I did have all of these stereotypical Scottish experiences. But what I didn’t count on was finding myself in the history of the Scots.

Standing on the battlements of Stirling Castle, I listened as our guide pointed out the surrounding landscape. To our right was the National Wallace Monument, an ancient-looking relic that bursts upward from the trees in honor of Sir William Wallace. The guide gave us an in-depth look at the workings of the castle, including the Great Hall, the kitchens, and the living quarters. All of this information was interesting and informative, but I wanted to know more.

After the tour, I asked our guide if he had heard of George Buchanan, one of my ancestors who—I was fairly certain—had lived at the castle.

The guide confirmed that George Buchanan had been the widely respected tutor of Mary Queen of Scots and her son, James VI, and that he had indeed lived at the castle in the mid-1500s. Then the guide pointed out a classroom where my ancestor would have taught and told me stories about him that only seasoned tour guides could know.

I realized that because of my ancestry I was part of this castle, part of this land, and part of Scotland’s history. This moment of discovery meant more to me than any other fact or statistic I had heard on the tour. But another moment of discovery was

Photo by Dave Apple

Heritage Hunting in the Highlands

Photos by Duncan Brown and Becca Taylor

staff essay waiting for me: I visited the museum near the battlefield and saw the Battle of Culloden unfold before me.

As I exited the theater, I looked up and saw a memorial with the names of all the clan leaders who had fought in that battle in 1746.

That’s where I saw the name of Robert Buchanan, another of the patriarchs of my family’s clan. It hit me at that moment that I was part of his legacy too—and that returning to this place had become a mark of patronage and a sacred honor that I was privileged to experience.

As I walked around the grounds of the battlefield, I silently paid respect to the members of my clan who had loved their land enough to fight for it, even at the expense of their lives.

Personal history invites us to explore a land in the context of its people and to connect with the land in deeply meaningful ways. Learning about the souls who built, worked for, and fought for my homeland gave me access to intimate relationships with the physical landscapes, relationships fostered by familial bonds.

Traveling to Scotland made me see that while time, society, and culture soldier on, the land preserves much of the history that is carved into it. It is our privilege to draw out these histories from the landscape, thereby enabling us to better write our own history.

At the end of my trip, I found a shop that made clan tartans and kilts, and I purchased a wool blanket in the Buchanan plaid. This blanket reminds me of the relationships I created through uncovering the history of my ancestors’ sacrifices.

And it encourages me to pass on the stories I found and thereby honor the surname that I bear.

—Kylee Buchanan Opposite: The volcanic glen known as Glen Coe is considered one of the most spectacular views in Scotland. Top: This marker memorializes the highlanders who fought for the rights to their homeland. Travelers can walk the battlefield and see markers of individual clan graves. Above: A line of blue flags marks the line where the Jacobites would have been when the Battle of Culloden started.

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Parting Shot Blackpool, Lancashire, England At high tide, Blackpool’s iconic Spanish steps disappear into the Irish Sea. Visitors to this coastal town flock to one of England’s most popular beaches.

—Shayla Johnson Richland, WA