I Love Chile News Edition 13: The Harlem Globetrotters

Water, Energy & Rubik’s Cube

Don’t Breathe Too Deeply

Winter Time Fun for Little People with Big Dreams

Promoting English in Chile, Promoting Chile in English.

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I LOVE CHILE RADIO / JULY 2011

A Virtual Meeting Place for the Global Wanderer ILC Radio has been streaming 24 hour, live webcasts in ENGLISH out of Chile since 2007. Globally loved as a breeding ground for expat communications and their unique wandering perspectives on Chile, ILC Radio - based in Santiago, orients local and international listeners with eclectic, open format programming on Chilean politics, news, food, music, nightlife, opinions and yes, sports.

Tune in anytime for the local scoop at: www.ilovechile.cl/radio

Z

enan Delaney, from England and currently Station Manager of I Love Chile Radio (ILCR), is the host of “Chile Sauce,” 10 am to 12 noon Monday through Thursday on ILCR. Chile Sauce is a satirical look at the latest news and current affairs in Chile and around the globe.

Radio is Zenan’s passion, the way he puts it is, “unlike television which takes your soul and is somewhat antisocial, radio is a companion.” By broadcasting on radio he has made friends all over the world.

Radio can be so many things--from a play to a party, always there to entertain and inform. Zenan is also the producer and creator of a program for FM radio in Chile, “Del Otro Lado”, which translated means “from the other side.” The program’s aim is to promote love and understanding in inter-cultural relationships.

Zenan lives in Chile because he likes the wine and has been living here happily drinking it for the past 10 years. Originally imported to Chile by a woman for love, he has continued to live here because he enjoys the sun and the beautiful countryside. He has said, “the most wonderful things about Chile apart from the wine, are the desert and the women, as they are both hot!”

His one thing to improve in Chile would be to have the police actually fine drivers for running red traffic signals. Many times he says he has seen police directing traffic at an intersection when the signals are functioning normally, this has always been a mystery to him! He questions why they are making traffic jams and not giving tickets to the many drivers that run the lights?

Since 2001, Zenan has been involved with Santiago Stage, Chile’s English-language theater company. In 2007 he become President of the acting troupe. Santiago Stage is a voluntary organization; the troupe produces plays, then gives the proceeds to local grassroots charities. Through the theater, Zenan has gained an acting career in Chile, appearing in El Cuento Del Tio, Mea Culpa (TVN), Infieles (CHV), Golpe Bajo (MEGA), and Heroes (UC13) amongst others. Recently Zenan made a comical documentary about his life in Chile which will be aired on MEGA in September. You can get more information about Santiago Stage at www.santiagostage.org

Zenan Delaney

Program Host on I Love Chile Radio PHOTO: BÁRBARA HERMOSILLA

Advertiser Profile

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By Astrid Diez As the third largest airline in the world, American Airlines not only knows why you fly, but also where you fly. With the winter season upon us, I Love Chile’s Community Engagement Liaison, Astrid Diez, connected with Pamela Camus, Director of American Airlines Chile to see what´s hot this season for American Airlines travelers.

ILC. What destination would you recommend for the winter vacation in order to escape from the cold?

AA. For this winter vacation, we recommend Miami as a destination. Its white sand beaches, its excellent weather and all the tourist attractions that this city has to offer to visitors, without a doubt, make Miami a family destiny you cannot miss.

ILC. What are some of the things you would recommend for a long weekend in Miami?

AA: Miami has everything one needs in order to rest and enjoy. It offers a lot of alternatives: one can benefit from the best sales in the US in one of the malls in the city; visit the Art Decó hood, famous for their neoclassic style constructions, or the Design District, with art and decoration stores.

ILC: Miami has temperate weather all year round, how difficult is it to get a flight out?

AA. American Airlines flies everyday to Miami without scales and in high season we offer three additional flights weekly. It is important to mention that Miami International Airport, managed 90% by American Airlines has all the amenities that passengers need when they arrive at this airport.

ILC. How do you manage the volume of people flying in and out of Miami?

AA. American Airlines offers the latest technology and a full service center thus making travel life easier for its clients. Some of our services and amenities at Miami International Airport includes a renewed check-in area, a Skytrain which can transport up to 900 passengers per hour, a rental car center, a great variety of stores and

11-06-11 12:59

Get the latest news headlines everyday on www.ilovechile.cl

PHOTO COURTESY: AA

restaurants with flavors from South Florida, two Admirals Clubs and a new American Airlines, British Airways and Iberia Premium Lounge, among other attractions.

ILC. Can you elaborate on the latest technology´and how American Airlines’ technology helps their clients have a pleasant flight experience?

AA. At American Airlines we offer different services that give passengers greater facilities from the time they plan their trip to the time they reach their final destination. We offer a variety of free mobile and web based applications for all American Airline users that offer the capability to plan trips through their mobile phone, check flight status, their frequent flyer miles, view terminal maps, and they can even play Sudoku while they wait. iPhone and iPad applications are also available for download in App Store. Additionally, American Airlines just announced the BlackBerry® and Windows® Phone applications release. With this, American Airlines is going to be accessible by more communications channels than any other airline, which confirms our commitment to ensuring all of our

passengers are connected while they’re traveling ILC. What travel documents are needed when traveling on American Airlines from Chile to continental U.S.A.?

AA. As the time of writing, people who travel from Chile to the U.S. mainland do not need a visa to enter the US. One can obtain the boarding pass from their mobile devices, helping them save time during the check-in process.

Also, we now offer a new automated international check in service at Santiago airport, with equipped machines that read the passport information. This service helps improve the trip experience making the check in time even faster for those who travel from Santiago or any other international city to or through the US. This service is available to most of the clients with international electronic tickets. For your travel safety and security, the passengers’ documents are checked by an agent during the automatic check in service or the exit gate before boarding.

ILC. Where can our readers contact an American Airlines’ representative for more information about Miami, flights and special services?

AA. Our passengers can contact our sales representatives directly by calling 678 0000 Also, they can access our multiple award winning website AA.com, which was recently redesigned in order to offer an easier and more convenient navigation experience. There, our passengers can book flights, check their AAdvantage program accounts, check flight status and also check booked flights.

For the second time, AA.com has received the Global Traveling Award for being the best airline webpage in the whole world, and has received multiple awards from a number of organizations.

An award winning website, the latest in travel technology including a variety mobile applications and expedited check in for international clients makes American Airlines Chile yet another reason why I Love Chile!

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STAFF

JULY 2011 / TABLE OF CONTENTS

Publisher & C.E.O Daniel Brewington Editor Julie Gibson Assistant Editor Sharon Ewing Chief Strategy Officer Pamela Lagos Director, Sales & Marketing Steve Halsey Community Engagement Shonika Proctor Astrid Diez Online Editor Jayne Scarman News Desk Bárbara Hermosilla Contributors Jayne Scarman Shonika Proctor Carolina Leseigneur Richard Magennis Sean Black Harper Bridgers Pablo Retamal Pascal Mathieu Ian Gilbert Marcelle Dubruel Alicia Granse Ben Angel Pepe Rawlinson Alexis Psarras Gonzalo Mena Blake Appelhof Patrick Milligan Photographers Gardner Hamilton Daniel Brewington Bárbara Hermosilla Mauricio Cancino Design Alfonso Gálvez Translations Mary Tapia Interns Christie Gidumal Callie Mills Jerusa Pozo Alvaro Caceres Annika Kirbis

The I Love Chile Office is located on Loreto 6, Bellavista, Santiago, Chile Our office hours are from 10:00am to 5:00pm Monday to Friday Contact Phone: +56 (02) 732 26 39 Out of hours contact+ 56 (09) 7 549 1513 To contact our newsdesk email: prensa@ilovechile.cl or press@ilovechile.cl To contact administration email: info@ilovechile.cl

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Where else can you get a complete presentation of what’s going on in Chile in English? We provide to the Chilean community a well written tool to practice English as well as providing positive Chilean news to expats and other foreigners in Chile and abroad.

I Love Chile news is currently being delivered to embassies, airlines, schools, universities and tour related enterprises, as well as in newsstands around Santiago. If you are having trouble finding it, get your subscription today so it can be delivered right to your doorstep. Subscribe today so you don’t miss out!!

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Letter From the Editor

A

Chilean winter can hit you with more than just low temperatures and high Quality of Particulated Air, i.e. smog.

With none of the excitement of fall festivities and holidays to look forward to as those in a northern hemisphere winter, it can be difficult to stay positive as the season drags on.

The winter blues can happen to even the most cheerful of us for a few simple reasons. The days get shorter, the weather gets colder, and due to the smog it’s advisable to spend a lot more time inside. But you don’t have to be fall victim to the winter blues. Seize this time of year as an opportunity—an opportunity to view the different areas of your life and consider how you might enrich them to stay happy and healthy. Give some thought to these suggestions for staying healthy, active, and positive during this Chilean winter.

It’s important that you remain socially active and keep yourself in the company of friends. Otherwise, it’s too easy to slip into loneliness. Become a social butterfly! Socializing with friends and family will help you stay optimistic, even if it seems easier to bundle up at home. Every week, plan a lunch date with a close friend. Join a club or register for a fun class. This is a winter double punch because you continue to build relationships while learning a new skill.

Be physically active. While hiding indoors may sound appealing, especially when we have one of our many “pre-emergency” smog days, but staying active can help you physically and emotionally. Work out within your home or join a gym. Relieving some pent up winter tension will stretch and strengthen your entire body. Make sure you’re getting some sun on your skin every day. Seasonal Affective Disorder plagues those who hide away indoors. Take a walk around the block when the weather permits, and make sure to drink plenty of fluids.

Challenge yourself mentally. By keeping your mind challenged you can avoid some of the depression that attacks during the cold part of the year. Give some

You don’t have to be fall victim to the winter blues. Seize this time of year as an opportunity—an opportunity to view the different areas of your life and consider how you might enrich them to stay happy and healthy.

thought into your career goals. Are there things you could do right now that would give you a leg up, professionally? Could you learn a new skill, or branch out into a new area? Or perhaps take up a new hobby that will challenge your mind. Maybe take up a cooking class, or try your hand at knitting. Winter is a great time to explore ideas you haven’t considered before.

And if you find that one hobby’s not for you, just move on to another. The objective is to make sure that you’re keeping your mind active and always expanding.

I hope you all enjoy I Love Chile News’ winter edition and have a healthy and happy South American winter.

Julie Gibson Editor

Table of Contents Page 2 Page 3 Page 4 Page 5 Page 6 - 7 Page 8 - 9 Page 10 Page 11 Page 12 - 13 Page 14 Page 15 - 17 Page 18 Page 19 Page 20 Page 21 Page 22 - 23 Page 24 - 25 Page 26

Page 27 Page 28 Page 29

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DJ Spotlight Letter from the Editor News round-up Living Bees: New Genetics for Better Colony Health Mapuche State of Araucania Water, Energy & Rubik’s Cube The Joy of a Chilean Winter The Andes Mountains Don’t Breathe Too Deeply The State of Chilean Education Part 2 Little Thinker Winter Time Fun for Little People with Big Dreams Winter del Mar Ace Your Lungs Against Air Pollution Ski Chile Globetrotting Magic Alto Atacama Heating Up Chile’s Far South Here Comes the Rain Again Fashion: Dress the “Mad Men” way Love and Confusion All Eyes on La Roja in the Copa America 2011 LCFA: Los Felinos Want to Make History in Brazil GOURMET: Rishtedar Winter Comfort Food

Follow Soltera in Santiago, the single gringa about town, every Thursday on www.ilovechile.cl

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NEWS / JUly 2011 Photo: Courtesy NASA

News round-up

By Jayne Scarman

Volcán Puyehue explodes After lying dormant for almost half a century, Volcán Puyehue in Chile’s X region exploded on June 2nd.

The eruption caused a mass evacuation across parts of Las Lagos and Los Ríos regions. Over 4000 people were evacuated from their homes for just over two weeks as the volcano, located in the Caulle volcanic range, sent a plume of ash over 10 meters into the air and volcanic material over this mostly rural are of Chile.

The ash caused major problems over neighbouring Argentina, covering the nearby town and ski resort of San Carlos de Bariloche in a thick layer of grey dust.

Buenos Aires’ principal airport was closed for all flights at various points over the two week period that the “We Americans. volcano wasare at itsall most active, with Todos flights insomos Uruguay Americanos.”

Noted President also suspended.

After just over one week, theBarack ash com-Obama pletedduring a full circle southern hemispheres, his around recentthe visit to Chile. causing havoc with flight schedules in South Africa, Australia and New Zealand, and eventually Chile.

Photo: Bárbara Hermosilla

Student protests continue Secondary school and university students continued with large-scale demonstrations throughout June, culminating in the biggest protest so far on June 30th, where 100.000 students marched along the Alameda in downtown Santiago. The protests were marred by pockets of violence, spoiling what were largely peaceful marches until their final stages.

The stalemate between the government and students continued. The various representative bodies of students and teachers presented a unified set of demands to Education Minister Joaquín Lavín, whose proposals in response were rejected for not being deep enough. The President, Sebastián Piñera, eventually stepped-in on July 5th with a speech on national TV, outlining a major reform entitled the GANE agreement (Gran Acuerdo Nacional por la Educación). At the time of writing, the student movement was still considering its response.

Sexual equality march Somewhere in the region of 80.000 people turned out in central Santiago on June 25th to march for sexual equality. Organised by MOVILH, Chile’s campaigning body for the rights of lesbian, gay, bisexual, transexual and transgender people, the peaceful march saw people from all parts of Chilean society pledge their support for sexual equality in the country.

Homosexuality remains a largely taboo topic in Chile, with the Catholic Church and some parts of government openly rejecting the concept and refusing to recognise gay marriages. However, a bill is soon to be sent to Congress to legislate on unmarried unions - which will include both heterosexual and homosexual couples.

Discover bands, restaurants and the best empanadas in Chile on www.ilovechile.cl www.ilovechile.cl

05

JUly 2011 / NEWS

Living Bees

New Genetics for Better Colony Health

By Carolina Leseigneur

A

ndes Bees Ltda. is the first com- lem is the climate - many bees die over pany in the Chile to export its the Canadian winter or are too weak to live product abroad using a new be viable in the spring.

Together with the SAG, the Cusinnovative packaging and delivery system. Both CORFO and ProChile offer toms Agency (CFIA) and air freight companies, the bees were delivered via their support in the endeavor.

The company exported 200 queen the new packaging system from Chile bees of high genetic quality to Winni- to clients in Winnipeg, Canada within peg, Canada, on May 18th. The ship- 24 hours. Andes Bees Ltda. is the first ment was comprised of 175 naturally company in Chile to deliver a live prodfertilized Carniolan queens, 20 hybrid uct under the new innovative system, queens and 5 artificially inseminated which constitutes a great advantage over national and international competitors. queens.

This project commenced in 2009, The company also plans to consolidate when Ricardo Acuña, manager of the the Canadian market in future. RepreCentro Apícola Abejas del Bío Bío, fo- sentatives from Andes Bees Ltda. will cused in on Canada. He applied to and travel to Winnipeg in September to hear won the support of ProChile to execute first-hand from their clients about their a preliminary inspection of Canada experience and to listen to their opinion and its market. Four other companies of the product. Quantities and prices for were invited to participate by ProChile, the 2012 season will also be discussed. forming a group of bee exporters known Representatives will also travel to Spain as Andes Bees: Agrícola y Forestal El in September, to explore the viability of Tambillo Ltda., Prado, Mann y Cía European markets.

This is an overall success for Chile Ltda., Colmenares Hortisur S.A., and Sociedad Agrícola y Forestal San José as a country. Years of geographical confinement by the Pacific Ocean and the de Munilque Ltda.

Canada represents a viable market Andes Mountains has allowed Chile to for bee exportation from Chile. Ac- be relatively untouched by the outside world, leaving it mostly free cording to the CFIA, Canof the diseases afflicting ada imports queen bees bees in the northern from New Zealand, hemisphere, parWestern AustraYears of geographical ticularly colony lia and Chile, confinement by the collapse disorbut not from Pacific Ocean and the Andes der. This, tothe continenMountains has allowed Chile to gether with tal U.S., as be relatively untouched by the recent genetic varroa mites outside world, leaving it mostly developments, are endemic free of the diseases afflicting bees has allowed in U.S. bee in the northern hemisphere, Chilean apihives. Varroa particularly colony collapse culturists to prois also becomdisorder. duce robust queen ing widespread bees which can face in Canada, and varied conditions, probee losses have been viding a stable and healthy unusually high in North source of bees for apiculturists in America over the last 3 years, according to AGCanada. The other prob- northern hemisphere countries.

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Chilean History / JULY 2011

Mapuche state of

By Ben Angel

T

he national character of Chile is composed of components from many different lands, but the most important, the one that most differentiates it from other South American countries, comes from Chile itself. The Mapuche tribe is the largest indigenous nation remaining in Chile. When the Europeans arrived in the country, they led the resistance.

More or less, they still do.

The Mapuches were already well-entrenched in the lands of modern Chile when the Inca Empire rose from the 13th century Kingdom of Cuzco. The southward advance of Incan armies under Huayna Capac, the 11th Sapa Inca, or Incan Emperor, stalled at the Itata River (located in the present day’s Bio-Bio, or Region VII), which for many years served as the frontier between the Empire and the lands of the Mapuche.

The Mapuche meet the Spanish With the fall of the Incan Empire, it didn’t take long for the Arauco War between the Spanish and the Mapuche to start.

In the expedition southward the conquistador proved exceptionally lucky when his interpreter failed to inspire the former Incan tributary tribe of the Picunche (“Northern People”) to attack the small expedition. Almagro sent Gomez de Alvarado with 200 Spaniards and 5,000 native warriors to the south in 1536. Alvarado found a host of some 8,000 primitivelyarmed Mapuche warriors waiting for him.

Despite the numerical superiority and fierceness of their attack, the Mapuche were repelled several times, and finally forced to withdraw after losing many warriors in battle. The cold of the austral winter proved greater than expected, so when spring returned to the Aconcagua valley, the Spaniards returned north, giving the Mapuche a brief respite.

That respite ended when Pedro de Valdivia arrived in 1540, and founded Santiago a year later on the Mapocho River. The Arauco War had begun.

The next great battle between the Spanish and the Mapuche took place at Quilacura in February 1546. The Mapuche tribal leaders appointed Malloquete as their Toqui, or wartime leader, who then organized a force of some 2,000 men to repel the Spanish expedition. With superior arms and armor, the Spanish easily defeated the Mapuche defenders, killing Malloquete. The fierceness of the defenders convinced Valdivia to turn back.

Four years later, Valdivia again attempted to reach the Strait of Magellan. This time, the Mapuche chose Ainavillo as Toqui, and he gathered a much larger force of some 5,000 warriors, which he divided into three divisions in order to carry out a surprise night attack in February 1550. In three hours of fierce night fighting in the battle of Andalien, the Mapuche were repelled losing some 3,000 men in their attacks. Valdivia was convinced to return to the coast to try a new strategy.

This involved the creation of a new Spanish fort later called Concepcion del Nuevo Extremo. Toqui Ainavillo saw this fort as a significant threat, and ordered many thousands more men to be brought to his command. A month after his defeat at Andalien, Ainavillo advanced with 60,000 warriors and surrounded the newly-created fort. When the arrow firing slowed, Jeronimo de Alderete spotted Ainavillo’s position and without orders from Valdivia, he carried out an assault against the Toqui’s guards. By the end of the battle, Ainavillo lay dead in the nearby hills. With Concepcion established, Valdivia sought to create a defensive line of his own against a potential Mapuche counterattack.

Araucania

The national character of Chile is composed of components from many different lands, but the most important, the one that most differentiates it from other South American countries, comes from Chile itself. The Mapuche tribe is the largest indigenous nation remaining in Chile. When the Europeans arrived in the country, they led the resistance.

More or less, they still do.

Mapuche victory at Tucapel Described as having incredible stamina and strength and skilled at inspiring his men to fight, Caupolican had a secret weapon that his predecessors didn’t have, a Subtoqui named Lautaro. He was trained by the Spanish, becoming very good at horsemanship and other aspects of Spanish military strategy. One day he returned to his village, where he then taught Mapuche military leaders everything he knew.

Meanwhile, in December 1553, Valdivia was patrolling his newly established line of forts along the Mapuche frontier. Though this line provided greater control of Chile, it also greatly divided his forces, leaving him less capable of facing any large Mapuche force advancing northward.

He arrived at Tucapel on Christmas Day and found the fort destroyed. His former protégé Lautaro had learned Spanish tactics well, and had massacred Gomez de Almagro and his garrison. Almost immediately after Valdivia’s men occupied the ruins, war cries sprung from the nearby forests. Seeing the rush of Mapuche warriors advancing on the broken fort, the conquistador quickly arranged a defense that successfully repelled this first attempt. Almost immediately, the Mapuche launched a second attack, this time carrying maces that took out the Spanish horses. Valdivia’s men could only huddle in what was left of their defenses, waiting for the inevitable third and final attack.

Lautaro skillfully brought down the Spanish defenses. When Valdivia attempted a retreat, Lautaro cut the retreating force off. The only men to escape the massacre at Tucapel was Valdivia himself and his priest Padre Pozo.

By the end of the day, Valdivia was Lautaro’s captive.

There are many stories about how Valdivia died. He may have been tortured then executed, killed by a vengeful warrior. In any case, Valdivia’s death provided a respite for the Mapuches while the Spaniards selected a replacement. Had it not been for a major epidemic striking the tribe about the same time, the Mapuche might have managed to destroy the Spanish defenses during that critical power vacuum.

The Fall of Lautaro Lautaro continued to prove himself during February, 1554, when Francisco de Villagra led a punitive expedition against the Mapuches. As a result of the sub-toqui’s

tactics, Villagra lost half his force in battle. In May, 1556, after a 2-year epidemic raged in the Mapuche lands, Lautaro advanced northward and sought to raise an insurrection of indios against the Spaniards north of the Bio-Bio River. A superior force under Pedro de Villagra, Francisco’s uncle, advanced on the Mapuche fortress, and in a series of costly attacks, the Spanish finally drove Lautaro from his stronghold to the Maule River.

Late in the austral summer of 1557, Francisco de Villagra launched a new 10,000-man offensive against the Mapuches, but Lautaro merely evaded the oncoming Spanish army and launched a counterattack of his own northward toward Santiago. At the very start of the Battle of Mataquito, on April 30, Lautaro was killed in the doorway of the building where he was staying.

When news reached the sub-toqui’s men of his death, the battle that followed became a rout.

Toqui Caupolican was left with only lesser leaders to fight the enemy. Caupolican himself could not duplicate Lautaro’s brilliance against the Spanish.

Not long after, Caupolican was captured by a special expedition led by Pedro de Avendano. Caupolican’s son Lemacaguin succeeded him as Toqui, but died at the Battle of Quiapo a month later. The Spanish defenses on the frontier were quickly restored after his death.

The Second Mapuche offensive The campaign to restore the Spanish defenses on the Mapuche frontier gave rise to a new Spanish leader, one who became hated very quickly among the tribesmen on both sides of the line, Avedano. As a result, a selected band of Mapuche ambushed him near his stronghold of Puren, killing him and inspiring a new insurrection known as the Second Great Mapuche conflict of July, 1561.

The Mapuche leadership selected Illangulien as their new Toqui. He trained in secret within the swamps of Mapuche territory. Finally in February, 1564, he ordered his sub-toquis Loble and Millalelmo to lay siege to Concepcion. At the same time, the Toqui himself marched on Angol.

Though his strategy was effective, Illangulien was killed in his attempt, turning a near victory into a complete loss. A year later, Francisco de Villagro quelled by 1569, a year before a catastrophic earthquake temporarily flattened Concepcion, sub-toqui Llanganabal (under Illangulien’s successor Paillataru) defeated the Melchor Bravo de Saravia, Spanish governor of Chile, at the Battle of Catirai.

For the next three decades, the Mapuche remained a major problem for the Spanish Empire. Spanish soldier Alonso Diaz defected in 1572, and spent a decade as Paillataru’s successor. A year later, Nangoniel became Toqui; he introduced cavalry to the Mapuche forces before being killed in an ambush. A couple years and toquis later, Guanoalca finished off the Spanish fort at Puren, and turned the tide of the war against Spanish Governor Alonso de Sotomayor before dying in 1590.

The next great Mapuche toque was Paillamachu, who sent warrior Pelantaro against Governor Onez de Loyola. The sub-toqui caught the governor by surprise at Curalaba, and completely massacred his force.

The Third Mapuche offensive

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07

JULY 2011 / Chilean History

Archive Photos: National

create a new road through Mapuche territory in 1784.

In February 1789, war was averted by the Treaty of Rio Bueno, which provided concessions for the local tribes along the road in return for allowing it to be built. However, newly arriving Spanish entrepreneurs began to build new haciendas in Mapuche lands.

Nonetheless, the conflict remained limited and was swiftly ended by treaty. The result was that Mapuche lands would be under Spanish protection (de jure Spanish sovereignty), while in reality, the Mapuche would run their own territory (de facto Mapuche sovereignty). This peace lasted through the end of Spanish rule.

Paillamachu earned his place in Mapuche history by organizing the systematic removal of Spanish settlers from the territory south of the Bio-Bio River. In his lifetime, he destroyed six of seven Spanish cities established in traditional Mapuche territory. The seventh, San Felipe de Araucan (today’s Arauco) was destroyed in 1604 by his successor, Huenecura, a year after the old toqui’s death.

A decade after Huenecura’s death, a new toqui rose named Lientur. His ability to carry out swift raids and slip almost invisibly in and out of Spanish territory earned him the nickname of “the Wizard” among the Spanish. He chose to retire in 1625. The next two toquis continued the guerilla campaign, albeit less effectively.

In January 1641, Governor Francisco Lopez de Zuniga held negotiations and a treaty was finally agreed upon by the two warring powers. The Spanish agreed to recognize the Mapuche as a sovereign nation south of the Bio-Bio River, exempted the Mapuches from enslavement in Spanish territories, carried out trade, and allowed missionaries to evangelize in Mapuche country.

The Fourth Mapuche offensive The peace lasted about a decade. During that time, minor insurrections rose against Spanish missionaries and within Spanish territories, but none really took root until January, 1651, when the Spanish ship San

Jorge ran aground. Sailors aboard attempted to salvage as much of the supplies on the ship as possible, but nearby Mapuche warriors saw the supplies as a prize, and attacked the survivors of the shipwreck, killing them all.

The Spanish demanded punishment for those who took part, a demand that was never really met. Two years later, a punitive expedition was organized.

Juan de Salazar led an army of 900 Spaniards and about 3,000 Yanacona warriors into Mapuche territory in 1653. The expedition ended disastrously at the first attempt to cross a river into Mapuche territory. His superior, Governor Antonio de Acuna Cabrera, was removed from office for ineptitude. And south of the Bio-Bio River, the Mapuche themselves were stirred to arms under a new Toqui, Clentaru.

Clentaru’s advance surged northward from the BioBio River up to the Maule River. The two sides only began to talk again in 1671. Another generation would pass before peace was restored for a three-decade period.

Eighteenth Century Mapuche offensives In a familiar pattern, the Spanish began to build new forts, sending in troops with missionaries to reconnoiter Mapuche activity. When the Spanish set up a monopoly in the trade of ponchos, the leaders of the Mapuche nation decided upon a renewed war against their northern neighbors. Vilumilla, a low-ranking warrior who was nonetheless respected for his skills at strategy, was chosen to be the new Toqui.

In 1723, Vilumilla carried out a bold attack on the Spanish defensive line. Gabriel Cano was sent with a new Spanish army of 5,000 to capture and restore the defenses, but he could do little. In 1726, the Treaty of Negrete was signed, ending further conflicts.

New conflicts sprung up in 1759, 1764, and 1766.

The latter two featured the tactical prowess of Toquis Cunnancu and Lebian. Toqui Lebian was assassinated

by Spanish soldiers after peace was made.

The last great Mapuche conflict with the Spanish resulted from a plan by Ambrosio O’Higgins as governor of Chile and Francisco Hurtado as Governor of Chiloe to

The Rise and Fall of Araucania In deference to the treaties they held with the Spanish, many Mapuche leaders fought on the side of the Royalists in the Chilean War of Independence. Therefore, the Mapuche were never regarded as welcome in the fledgling Republic of Chile. In 1825, a treaty was put into effect setting up the Bio-Bio River as again the frontier between the new republic and the Mapuche state of Araucania.

The Mapuche lived in isolation for the first three decades of Chilean independence. Both Argentina and Chile had only limited control of the remote lands of the Patagonia, and the Mapuche maintained control of their frontier despite efforts to extend Chilean control southward into their territory.

German colonists landed at Melipulli, a Mapuche site meaning “four hills,” from Chiloe in the summer of 1851, in the midst of an insurrection against President Manuel Montt in the north. Government-sponsored German immigrants, quickly settled into the southern part of Araucania.

In 1858, after the insurrection in Santiago failed, Orelie-Antoine de Tounens, a lawyer from France arrived in Chile. He eventually moved to Valdivia and befriended Mapuche leaders. Soon after, De Tounen’s motive became very clear-- to create from the disorganized Mapuche state in Araucania and the disorganized territories in Patagonia a new country, with himself as head of state. The Araucanian Declaration of Independence was issued on Nov. 17, 1860, after which he invited newly elected President Jose Joaquin Perez Mascayanoto negotiate recognition of sovereignty. Nobody took him seriously.

President Perez ordered the annexation of the region between the Bio-Bio and Tolten rivers The French consul eventually arranged for De Tounens to be declared mentally incompetent, and he was shipped back to France. The war was effectively over before it had begun.

The last great armed conflict, the one the effectively ended all de facto Mapuche sovereignty, took place in 1880, when the Chilean army returned south from the War in the Pacific and forcefully evicted the Mapuche.

To be Mapuche today From their history, it is clear that the Mapuche identity today is tied very strongly to the concept of independence. Their fight continues for the control of their lands, but the opponent has changed. No longer is it just the government alone that the indigenous Chileans fight, but also the companies that own large swaths of land that they claim to be historically Mapuche lands. Predictably, this includes fights against lumber companies, and works perceived as highly damaging to the environment, such as HidroAysen’s Patagonian dam project.

Despite repeated defeat over the centuries, and perhaps because of a steadfast resistance and a refusal to integrate or die, over 600,000 of Chile’s 18 million people still can claim today to be Mapuche. The names of early Mapuche leaders have been lauded in Chile and across South America; Lautaro had been specially selected by Francisco de Miranda, Simon Bolivar and other revolutionaries as the name they would use for their Masonic Lodge – an organ used much like St. John’s Lodge in Boston to help organize a revolution.

The parallels – a brief infiltration of Spanish society before declaring independence from Spain – were clearly purposeful.

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08

Social Responsibility / JULY 2011

Water, Energy & Rubik’s Cube

By Pablo Retamal

am big fan of sustainable development. However, having studied it at university, worked on relevant projects and continuously debated on the subject, it strikes me as odd how since the term’s birth in the 70´s (Brundtlund Report) the words “next generation” never stop popping up. Don’t get me wrong, that’s not at all the problem! My beef is that it seems we have been conceptualizing sustainability solutions since the 70’s for future generations. And it’s now 2011! We are still thinking of doing things right for our kids and their kids! So when do we do it right for us, now, today?

Back in the 70´s, kids used to bust their brains trying to line up colors on the famous Rubik’s Cube. I don›t know about you, but the closest I ever got to a Rubik›s Cube “victory”, was handling it for 15 minutes after I found one on my older cousin’s bookshelf.

I remember the cube seemed insoluble – 100 times more difficult then beating the big boss on Nintendo’s Mario Bros. “How is this fun?” I remember thinking.

However, some persistent “cubers” discovered not just one way to crack the puzzle, but many. The cube recently came to mind as I was researching about the astonishingly complex water/energy nexus challenge we now face.

In a study published in Nature Climate Change, Prof. Declan Conway and Sabrina Rothausen argue that greater focus on the energy requirements of the water sector will be a crucial part of the policy response toAVISO the huge challenges this1 sector faces 12:21 in the 1 GRAFICATYPOS.pdf 26-05-11 coming decades. Transparency in the water industry’s

I

So, in a Rubik-Cube-kind-of-way, sustainable development has thrown a climate, water, energy, and food cube at us and said, “solve it, then come talk to me.”

energy use is also likely to be important for it to meet carbon-reduction commitments while responding to other measures of sustainability, such as the need for stricter quality standards and increasing demand.

To date, much attention has been given to the need for sustainable water resource management. Far less attention has been given to the growing energy use and associated emissions of the water sector, for

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example, the processes involved in water treatment and distribution and domestic heating of water.

«Pressures on water management include stricter water-quality standards, increasing demand for water and the need to adapt to climate change, while reducing emissions of greenhouse gases (GHGs),» said Prof Conway, professor of water resources and climate change at the University of East Anglia in the UK. «The processes of abstraction, transport, and treatment of fresh water and wastewater all demand energy. Adapting water management to meet increasing demand, regulatory standards and the effects of climate change will in many cases require greater energy use.»

So it’s no surprise, then, that energy use in the water sector is growing. However, its importance needs to be highlighted further. There are obvious gaps that remain in our knowledge. This is shown in the way we do things in cities and the way we behave every day.

Some recent studies have highlighted the importance of GHG emissions from energy use in the water sector. They show that water-related energy use in the US accounts for nearly 5% of total GHG emissions, and the proportion is even higher in the UK, although in the UK it is mostly associated with the end uses of water, such as heating. In countries with very high freshwater withdrawals, most of the water is used for irrigation and the energy used in its extraction and transport is often considerable. Estimates for India suggest that emissions from lifting water for irrigation could be as much as 6% of total national emissions. In Chile, a recent climate change study financed by the UK government estimates that the effects of climate change will lower water resource availability in the Metropolitan and V Regions by 30% by 2070!

That’s 30% less water in Chile’s most productive and populated area!

Climate change represents a huge challenge to the sustainable management of water resources. In recent decades, developments in industrial, agricultural and domestic water use, and in water-quality regulation, have greatly intensified the treatment and transport of water. A rising demand for food and bio-fuels, and their international trade, threaten to drive expansion of irrigated cropland and cropping intensity and hence a greater use of water for agriculture. These activities generally require high-energy consumption and have contributed to increases in energy use in the

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09

JULY 2011 / Social Responsibility

water sector in many parts of the world.

The “perfect storm” scenario for sustaining increases in food production is described as climate change effects, the need to reduce GHG emissions, and the increasing competition for water. It provides a strong rationale for better integration of water and energy use. There is also a need to connect activities related to mitigation and adaptation more effectively. Considering alternative water supply systems, treatment technologies, or other patterns of water allocation may lead to a tendency to overlook the carbon cost; some measures regarded as sustainable water management, such as desalination, are very energy intensive. In the north of Chile, some copper mines have ventured into coal-powered desalination projects, contributing to GHG emissions.

In Greenhouse-gas emissions from energy use in the water sector, Professor Conway and Ms. Rothausen, quantify energy use in the water sector and detail the extent of current knowledge on emissions from the water sector and agricultural water use. Their review shows that energy use and GHG emissions in this sector are under-recognized, in part because of differences in the scope of water-sector boundaries, data availability, methodological approaches, and also whether results are expressed as energy use or GHG emissions. sibility. It is already a reality for many,” explained ProMs. Rothausen explained: «Although end use of- fessor Allan. ten has the highest energy use of all water-sector eleFocusing in on Allan’s virtual water concept, we ments, it has not traditionally been seen as a direct think in terms of the water we can see – the water we part of the water sector and is often unaccounted for use for drinking and washing (blue water). There is a in water management and policy. What evidence there far greater consumption of water that is invisible to is shows that energy use in the water sector is consid- us (green water) – the water used in all the processes erable and growing. This growth is likely to continue, involved in producing goods and food. This is what is sometimes as an unintended policy outcome, with meant by virtual water (blue and green water)! greater pressure to use and maintain quality of water We use about 150 liters (quarts) of water a day resources.” for drinking and washing. If we include our virtual Even if there has been some recent progress, we still need to better understand and profile the role of the water sector as a GHG emitter. A coordinated view of the water sector will promote more comprehensive assessments of energy use, while standardized methodologies will enable comparisons between assessments of different technologies and processes, and between regions or countries. As we leave the era of cheap oil it seems we enter that of climate-energy.

By the way that the climate-energy era is shaping up, we need to realize that it is undermining the resource without which life is impossible: water.

So, in a Rubik-Cube-kind-of-way, sustainable development has thrown a climate, water, energy, and food cube at us and said, «solve it, then come talk to me.» In the seventies, people left it up to those “Our ignorance is immense. Most in the 80´s and the baton of us don’t have the slightest has been passed over progressively under the preidea about the sheer volumes of text that something needs water involved in our daily lives. to be done for «the next With a global population pushing generation.» As President seven billion, water scarcity is Obama said so well: “the not just a possibility. It is already buck stops here”… It’s a reality for many,” time for our generation to kick in the solutions!

In 1999, I took a course at University entitled “Water and Development”. My Professor at the time, Tony Allan, explained a simple concept to us, “virtual water”. I found it fascinating, not least because it sounded like my favorite video game at the time ”Virtual Striker!” However, Prof. Allan’s trick worked, and I paid lots of attention in his class. So what is this virtual water thing? Put simply, we human beings don’t understand the true value of water, and we are at a point in our relationship with nature’s vast but limited water resources where we simply cannot afford to stay ignorant. Already, our over-consumption and mismanagement of water has had a serious impact on our water environments and the essential services they provide.

“Our ignorance is immense. Most of us don’t have the slightest idea about the sheer volumes of water involved in our daily lives. With a global population pushing seven billion, water scarcity is not just a pos-

water consumption, this figure rises to 3,500 liters!

How much water is there in your espresso? 140 liters.

It takes 140 liters to grow, package and ship the beans that make 1 cup of coffee. Capiche? Simple really, it’s actually thinking of it as embedded water.

Virtual water can help all of us understand the characteristics of water, its nature and our (mis)use of it. It will help us to get to grips with our collective impact on our national and global water security. Once we understand water truly, we will be able to use it wisely. There are 6.8 billion reasons why we need to understand water properly. 6.8 billion thirsty human beings unwittingly consuming between 2 and 5 cubic meters of water each day. Understanding virtual water will allow us to manage our water use more effectively and to ensure mutual water security for our large, and continually growing global population.

The virtual water concept is definitely a start to solving the water sustainability issue, but how on earth do we muster the will power to line-up water, energy, and climate change efforts to create true longlasting sustainable growth? Is there such thing as an integrated solution? Whatever the weather, let’s hope the well does not run dry of ideas or will power during this generation.

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10

Pepe’s Chile / JULY 2011

The Joy

of a Chilean Winter PHOTO COURTESY: COCINARTE CHILE - ANABELLA

By Pepe Rawlinson

A

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ll of the winters that I’ve spent in Chile have been in homes that didn’t have central heating.

These homes were heated by the mighty little propane-powered estufa. Every home has at least one of these faithful boxes that does quite a good job of warming up a room. There are, of course, challenges with these devices. Lighting them can be a problem for the uninitiated. Additionally, you don’t want to run out of propane. And please don’t forget to turn off the estufa before you go to bed.

The challenge of using one of these stoves for heating is the temperature in the rest of the house. If you go to the bathroom, prepare to freeze. Are you going to bed? Dress warmly and rely on tons of blankets. In my first winter in Chile it seemed like I had so many blankets on my bed I couldn’t count them all. Blankets help with night time survival but they also make it extremely hard to get out of bed in the morning into a cold house. It reminds me of camping and how you don’t want to get out of your sleeping bag when the chilly morning arrives.

Winter in Chile traditionally means tons of rain.

While some years are the exception, Chile’s central regions enjoy a Mediterranean climate that usually means wet winters and dry summers. During my first winter in Chile, I was completely baffled that Santiago wasn’t prepared for the rain. The city seemed to be a solid piece of concrete and pavement that didn’t deal with rain very well. The rain falls and then follows the path of least resistance, often flooding areas that moments ago were dry.

Many Santiago streets flooded near places I have lived during the winter months. When this happens near you, be careful of the passing buses. They can take a few inches of water and make a tidal wave that will soak any bystander along the way.

As the saying goes, when you’re dealt lemons, make lemonade. At almost every busy, flooded street corner, I found enterprising individuals who, for a fee, would ferry people across the street. Many of these porters had the ubiquitous tricycle with a cart attached to the front. On the cart would be a chair. Take a seat. Pay a few pesos and be escorted across the river- street with-

out getting your feet wet.

Cold, rainy days are great for enjoying some classic Chilean winter cuisine. My first introduction to sopaipillas was during the winter. A good cazuela stew will also warm you up on a cold day.

The rain in Chile doesn’t just make you wet. It magically cleans the air. During the winter, Santiago suffers from an increased smog inversion that makes breathing harder. It also makes it impossible to see any measurable distance towards the horizon. The moments right after the rain stops always offer the best opportunity to catch a nice view of the city from the top of San Cristobol or Santa Lucia. Many people have arrived into a smog-covered Santiago and didn’t know where the mountains were.

Winter rains reveal the majestic Andes to the East

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of the capital city. One of my favorite visuals after the rain was to see just how far down the Andes snow had fallen. Towering mountain peaks with freshly fallen snow are always a beautiful sight.

Winter in Chile has its ups and downs. If you just look at the negatives, you’ll find that they often hide positive benefits. Winter rains help the summer crops grow and Chile’s agricultural economy flourish. Even the nuances of keeping warm or dry during the winter months highlight aspects of Chilean culture and life here that makes winter a memorable experience every year.

Joe “Pepe” Rawlinson is the author of “The Gringo’s Culture Guide to Chile” and shares regular insights into Chilean culture and travel on his blog at pepeschile.com

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JULY 2011 / Featured Ad PHOTO COURTESY: ANDES MOUNTAIN

By Andes Mountain

W

e began our journey toward the Ninth Region of Araucanía. In my opinion, it’s one of the most beautiful regions of Chile because of its forests, lakes, and volcanoes. We arrived at the Malalcahuello shelter at night, so we couldn’t see much. We were unable to realize the real beauty of this place as only the moonlight on the snow gave us some idea of the spectacular spot we were in. It was like a fairy tale.

After a delicious dinner, we went to sleep. The trip had made us a bit tired and we had to get everything ready for the early morning wake-up time.

By 7:30 a.m. the next day, we were already up and eating breakfast. We were greeted with a spectacular day; the sun peeked shyly through the mountains and dyed the sky a deep blue. We prepared the skis and all the other necessary equipment to start this beautiful climbing adventure, planning on reaching an altitude of 2.800 meters on the Lonquimay Volcano.

Once in the van, it took us about 20 minutes to reach the foot of the volcano. The sun shone across the landscape, showing us Lonquimay’s forests of pine, its brightness dazzled by the reflections in the snow. It was really beautiful.

In winter, the climb can be done with skis or walking with snowshoes, but in summer you can simply walk up. This time we used cross-country skis with faux fur on the bottom of the ski. This allows forward movement as you climb. Thanks to its mounting system, leg movement is similar to the action of walking. The climb is approximately 1,000 meters up the volcano from the ski center Corralco.

As we climbed, we began to feel the heat and we had to remove some of our outerwear. The climb lasted about 3 hours. We were relatively slow so as not to tire ourselves too quickly since this was the first volcano in this climbing adventure.

Once at the summit, the view was amazing. We were 2,800 meters high, surrounded by a truly spec-

The Volcano Journey:

Lonquimay

tacular landscape with views of neighboring volcanoes Llaima, Tolhuaca, Callaqui, and furthest away - the Villarrica volcano. With a unique silence, only at times could we hear the sound of the strong cold breeze that made us feel we were in heaven. A good sandwich along with some biscuits and chocolates helped us recover our energy and prepare for the best part of the day, which was yet to come.

After removing the skins from the skis and setting the skis and boots to Alpine position (like a traditional ski), we began to descend the slopes of Lonquimay. It’s considered one of the best offslope snows in the region--and why not?--of Chile.

The experience of descending in the middle of Nature itself, surrounded only by the presence of your friends, makes this sport in a faraway land an unforgettable experience.

When we got back to the base of the volcano, a timid Chilla fox came to us looking for some food,

Tips: Best time to climb in cross-country skis is in spring, from September to October.

Andes Mountain Expeditions take journeys through different volcanoes of the Araucania region in either an 8-day program or in an 11-day program. If you do not have the gear you need, they can provide all the necessary tools, including such safety gear as the Arva, a shovel, a first aid kit and communication equipment. letting us photograph him and add to our gallery of memories. We put our equipment away in order to have a beer comfortably seated and to appreciate the environment and the beautiful day that had been given to us.

While returning, happy and exhausted, we could not pass up the opportunity to take a moment to relax, and went to the Baths of Malalcahuello. It’s a pleasant and beautiful place where we took time to enjoy the tranquility and harmony of the environment in the warm thermal waters.

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Feature / JULY 2011

Don’t Breathe Too Deeply

PHOTO: André Künzelmann/UFZ

Pollution in Santiago

By Alexis Psarras

W

hile the onset of winter in Santiago signals a drop in temperature, there is something more sinister lurking in the atmosphere than the biting cold. It’s not so much the falling thermometer readings that residents need concern themselves with, as it is the content of the air itself.

While air pollution affects every urban centre in the world it is particularly acute in Chile’s capital, where smog at this time of the year is an almost daily presence.

This is a serious public health problem that doesn’t lead only to a few itchy eyes and rasping throats, but to serious respiratory illnesses. In fact, up to 1,000 people die each year as a result of the city’s contaminated air.

So with emission levels similar to many other cities, just why is Santiago one of the most polluted places not just in Latin America but the world? What exactly is being done to solve the problem?

Natural pollution hot spot Air pollution is at its worst between May and August due to the meteorological phenomenon of thermal inversion. This is exacerbated by the city lying in a bowllike valley surrounded by the Andes on one side and the Cordillera de la Costa on the other. The mountains act to trap the airborne pollutants and only rainfall brings relief by literally washing the sky clean. This past May was the Zona Central’s driest since 1968, and with meteorologists predicting a dry winter, high and sustained levels of contamination will not be uncommon.

When Pedro de Valdivia founded Santiago del Nuevo Extremadura in 1541, it must have seemed a perfect site, sitting between the two mountain ranges and providing an excellent defensive lookout in all directions. Little did he know that five centuries later the city would engulf the entire valley and that the mountains themselves would be part of the problem.

Transport and industry Rapid economic growth and urban expansion contribute to high rates of air pollution in Santiago, as elsewhere, but the World Health Organisation (WHO) ranks Chile’s capital as one of the most polluted on earth.

Although figures are disputed, heavy traffic and high levels of industry in the Metropolitan Region are generally considered to be the biggest contributing factors.

These account for approximately 40% and 25% of the city’s pollution respectively. Industry, personal fuel burning (especially of wood) construction, agriculture, and unpaved roads contribute to the total, as do emissions from the mining industry. What’s more, Chile’s dependence on foreign energy imports has played a significant role, especially in the capital.

Natural and human development play their combined parts, but over the last decade there has been another obstacle to overcoming the contaminated air: a general lack of official understanding, and funding. All this has made finding a viable solution all the more challenging.

Health impact Air pollution is a major environmental health risk, estimated by the WHO and World Bank between them to cause an average 1.4 million premature deaths worldwide every year.

The WHO claims that the pollutant “particle matter” (known as ‘PM’; it’s what the pollution is actually made up of ) affects more people than any other pollutant on earth. It is no different here in Santiago, where PM as well as ozone and nitrous dioxide levels are high. The major components of PM are sulphates, nitrates, ammonia, sodium chloride, carbon, mineral dust and water, and when inhaled, these particles can reach deep inside the lungs and impede the respiratory process.

Air Quality Warnings System Air Quality Level

Particle Matter (per cubic metre)

201-300

Restrictions • Restrictions of vehicles circulating without catalytic converters (rotating registration number lottery system) • Prohibited to use stoves and fireplaces (to burn fuel) • Schools may suspend physical education classes if necessary

Alert

Same as ‘Alert’, plus • Restrictions of certain public highways • Increased restrictions on vehicles without catalytic converters • Restrictions on vehicles with catalytic converters (again, determined by a registration number lottery system) • All outdoor sports are banned

Pre-emergency

301 – 500

Emergency

Same as ‘Pre-Emergency’, plus • Further restrictions on vehicles with and without catalytic converters • Suspension of all pre-primary, primary and secondary school classes • Intensification of enforcement

501+

Chronic exposure to such particles increases the risk of developing cardiovascular and respiratory diseases such as lung cancer, chronic bronchitis, coronary disease, exacerbation of asthma, as well as reduced neurological development, a damaged immune system, and general long-term health problems. Even death may result as a direct result of exposure to PM. The Blacksmith Institute, an international non-profit organisation dedicated to solving pollution problems in the developing world, claims that the number of people affected by pollution is comparable to HIV/AIDS, TB and malaria. Yet, pollution remains one of the most underreported and underfunded problems on Earth. On top of the estimated 1,000 deaths each year, a 2009 study commissioned by the then National Environment Commission found that almost 20,000 people suffer pollution-related health problems in the capital every 12 months, with the elderly and the young particularly susceptible.

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Particle matter is measured in PM10 and PM2.5, the number referring to the size of the chemical particle in micrometres. The latter is deemed more harmful as it can enter further inside the organs. In Santiago, like in most cities particle matter is measured in PM10. Although no levels of particle matter are strictly safe, the WHO recommends that to reduce illness, levels of PM10 should reach an annual daily average of no more than 20 micrograms per cubic metre. Currently the Chilean government deems up to 100 micrograms per cubic metre “good” and between 100 and 200 “regular.”

This is all particularly bad news for the residents of the outlying districts of the city such as Puente Alto and El Bosque in the south and Quilicura, Pudahuel and Cerro Navia in the north and west. According to the city-wide air monitoring system made up of 11 air quality monitoring stations around Santiago, these are the locations that have the consistently highest PM10 readings.

According to government statistics from 1997-2006,

13

JULY 2011 / Feature Vehicle restrictions began in the 1980s and have steadily increased since. All such restrictions run from between April 1st to August 31st every year.

Between these months car drivers in the capital are advised to check the government’s air quality updates. The air monitoring stations’ readings are published on a rolling basis on the Ministry of Environment’s website, where browsers can also find a daily air quality forecast for the following day.

If you want to know more about the vehicle restrictions visit the Ministry of Transport’s website.

To date there have been three ‘Pre-Emergency’ warnings in 2011 along with numerous ‘Alerts’ throughout May. Since rain fell in the first week of June the capital’s air has been much less contaminated.

Air Quality Warnings Issued, 2006 – 2010

Alert Pre-emergency Emergency Level Level Level 2010 7 3 0 2009 23 0 0 2008 21 8 (incl. 1 suspended) 0 2007 27 4 0 2006 21 3 0

The last recorded ‘Emergency’ level warning was issued in 1999. In the early 1990s, there were about 100 of these pollution environmental warnings a year, and as the table shows, last year there were just 10.

The general trend was towards overall air quality improvement from 1997 – 2006. There exists a general lack of public trust in the accuracy of these air quality readings, with residents frequently documented as saying pollution is actually higher. If they are distrustful, people may pay little heed to the warning system and ignore all of the restrictions.

It proposed a number of initiatives to improve air quality and some areas have improved: • Sulphur content of diesel dropped from 5,000 parts per million to 50 • Sulphur content of gasoline dropped from 1,500 parts per million to 30 • Lead was eliminated from gasoline.

The introduction of catalytic converters to new cars was also crucial to PM reduction. So, too, was Santiago’s switch to natural gas in the mid-1990s following a Chilean-Argentine accord. But when Argentina turned off the tap during the last decade, saying it needed to guarantee domestic supply first, Chilean industry and households reverted back to dirtier fossil fuels and pollution levels rose once more.

While these achievements should be lauded, there is always more to do.

The PPDA report claimed that the main problem was the lack of a unified and centralised government agency to coordinate policy direction and enforcement, and that there was a general lack of political will to change. The multiagency approach in which responsibilities lay with different ministries, each with their own priorities and budgets, meant that the issue of air quality was often de-prioritised.

Since then, a major step has been taken towards rectifying the situation with the creation of the new Ministry of the Environment. Coming into being in October 2010, following its establishment under the Bachelet Presidency in January 2010, this change demonstrates that some political will to combat Santiago’s dirty air does exist. By replacing the National Commission of the Environment (a decentralised body without ministerial status) and gaining ministerial status, the Ministry of the Environment now has, at least in theory, begun to repair the structural and financial impediments that were seen to be standing in the way of a more holistic approach to combating pollution. However, policy change is born out in practise and not just in theory and the new Ministry is under scrutiny.

Finding solutions Over the years, all sorts of ideas have been proposed to combat Santiago’s dirty air. A plan to change the location of public bus exhaust pipes from the rear of the vehicle to its roof was put into action, but clearly this has had no impact on actual emission levels. Perhaps the most innovative idea was that of a team of Japanese scientists which proposed blowing a hole in the part of the Andes nearest the city so that pollution could disperse more easily. Obviously, the Japanese scientists did not fulfil their wish and the Andes remain intact. Meanwhile, successive Chilean governments have continued to impose a series of less drastic measures. Initiatives have included the 2007 introduction of the Transantiago transport system, which saw the introduction of 1800 new buses equipped with high efficiency Diesel parThe WHO recommends that to ticle filters, thereby helping reduce illness, levels of PM10 to cut emissions. This, plus should reach an annual daily the ever expanding Metro, average of no more than 20 are theorectically helping to micrograms per cubic metre. incentivize people to switch Currently the Chilean government from their private vehicles deems up to 100 micrograms per to public transport, thereby cubic metre “good” and between cutting emission levels fur100 and 200 “regular.” ther. However, between the rising fares and the limited extent of the Metro, some still claim that the mass transit system doesn’t incentivize them to leave their cars at home.

At present there is approximately only one vehicle per five people in Santiago, while the figure in the US is one per person. As Chile’s economy continues to grow at a fast rate, private car ownership is likely to follow suit. In terms of pollution, it is therefore argued that authorities must continue to make public transport the fastest and cleanest option for public travel.

Will the sky clear?

Despite the advances, Santiago’s air remains well above international standards for what is deemed “safe and clean”.

As recently as 2004, government statistics showed that levels were 75% above its own clean air standard in terms of PM10 levels per 24-hour period. It has been argued that Chile should adopt the same emissions targets and enforcement models as the EU and USA, and that the State should provide the necessary funds to do so. Health Minister Jaime Mañalich has recently raised this topic by calling for further restrictions on vehicles circulating in the capital in order to lessen the health impact of the dirty air. However, the government has made it clear that this is not something it is currently considering.

Any meaningful changes will clearly take time, as well as political will. In the meantime Santiago’s residents will continue to fall ill, and many fatally so. The authorities have a big and important job on their hands.

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Any progress?

Following the 1997 government declaration that Santiago’s air was ‘saturated’ (that means above acceptable levels of contamination), the Metropolitan Region Decontamination and Prevention Plan was devised to combat the city’s dirty air. This PPDA (the plan’s Spanish acronym) set about auditing the capital’s air and air management system over a 10 year period.

Recent initiatives in the fight against Santiago’s dirty air have seen the current Environment Minister, María Ignacia Benítez, present the first ecological Transantiago bus. It will run on a form of biodiesel called B5. The pilot project is expected to cut emissions of current fleet by up to 5%. She is also championing electric cars and rolling out of a text message service for receiving air quality warnings. The controversial HidroAysén dam project is also considered to be part of securing Chile’s energy supply and therefore reducing reliance on foreign fossil fuel energy sources.

However, while pollution is down from 1990 levels and despite such government initiatives, PM levels have not been reduced significantly since 2000. Some air monitoring stations have actually detected rising carbon monoxide and ozone levels. “At this rate, Santiago will never enjoy healthy air,” the PPDA report warns. Hope was further dented this May with the release of the latest OECD statistics showing Chile at the bottom of the 34 members’ Environmental Care league table with a score of 0.0 points.

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14

education / JUly 2011

By Ian Gilbert

‘I

just want to be better’, a teacher said to me. ‘I don’t want more materials imported from Spain or wherever and dumped on me, knocking off the shelf the last lot of expensive materials I had dumped on me. I just want someone to sit with me in my lesson and tell me how I can teach better.’

This desire in ordinary people to make things better in schools across Chile is one of the factors that is most striking about education in this country. Everyone you speak to knows it can be better, a lot better, but rather than just moan into their lunchtime salads about it there are many people who are actually trying to create some sort of movement for change. Ordinary people who know that, for this country to fulfill its wonderful potential, it needs a new outlook on the way it educates its children. All of its children.

The battle for, if not the hearts, at least the minds of Chilean youth has been opened on many fronts. Successive governments have introduced many different initiatives to try and help. Trouble occurs when politicians dabble in education. In Chile as in any other country, you get a system bent on quick wins and headline-grabbing schemes that often either skim the surface of the real educational issues or else just make things worse by disorienting the children, school leaders and teachers at the chalk face.

One of the big issues currently loved by the government, hated by the children and exasperating teachers is testing. On the surface a test shows how well a child is doing and, when added with everyone else’s tests, how well a school is doing or even a country. Governments can easily identify progress in specific areas and issues on which they can take a hard line elsewhere. But, research shows a testing culture leads teachers to “teach to the test” at the expense of other things that are important but not measurable. What’s more - teaching in a top school in Santiago encourages children to learn to the test. ‘Is there a grade?’ is the stock phrase with which any task is met.

Piñera’s government is trying to reform various aspects of the educational world here and credit for having a go needs to be given where it is due. They are increasing the amount of money being given to the better-qualified students to entice them into a career in teaching. The better your PSU score, the bigger the bursary you receive. They are relaxing the rules on letting principals fire unsatisfactory teachers, something that was almost impossible to do before. They have introduced a new breed of academy-type school – Bicentennial Schools – to offer the opportunity Twitter (39,113 followers with 7943 Tweets as opposed to for academic excellence to children in key areas of Chile, Waissbluth’s personal account with just 24,446 followers regardless of parental income. And, knowing the quality of but a mind blowing 23,385 Tweets as the time of writing an education system is driven by its universities, they have this article). More of a pressure movement than a group just released details of an opportunity for universities to bid with answers to the big education questions, their masfor funds to make significant changes to these institutions. sive support means that every aspect of education (not to What’s more, I’m sure the government has been heart- mention other areas such as the controversial HydroAysen ened by the improvements in the latest PISA reading tests dam project) is under careful scrutiny. where Chile is described as “one of the rare countries where Less on the side of getting angry about the problems both boys and girls improved over the period.” and more on the side of getting on and sorting them out is Educational reform gets really interesting in Chile Enseña Chile, led by the effervescent Tomás Recart (4043 when you look at not at what is coming from on high but Twitter followers and 438 Tweets). Linked to the original what is growing up from grassroots level. Here there are Teach for America model and with ties to similar models many organizations and individuals who are committed to elsewhere such as Teach First in the UK, Enseña Chile’s having things better, including I Love Chile for whom edu- remit is to take young people, who have great potential to cation is a big part of their remit. be teachers but who wouldn’t otherwise have considered it One of the most visible groups is that led by Mario as a career, and get them into the classrooms of some of Waissbluth at GraficaTypos.pdf the Universidad de known as Edu- the country’s most challenging schools. One month’s intenafiche 6 verde 1 Chile 26-05-11 13:14 cación 2020. A self-styled citizen’s movement, their mis- sive training before they start, combined with support from sion is “to improve quality and equity of the Chilean the organization and from fellow Enseña Chile teachers, education by 2020.” Currently they boast 76,489 fol- means that the young people soon learn to thrive in classafiche 6 verde GraficaTypos.pdf 1 26-05-11 12:59 lowers through various highly active social media such rooms where they can not only make a difference quickly as Facebook, YouTube and their ever-present Tweets on but where a quick difference is most needed. What’s more,

The State of the Education Nation Part II

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Ian Gilbert is an educational innovator, award-winning author and founder of Independent Thinking now living and working in Chile. You can contact him at ian@ independentthinking.co.uk or follow him on Twitter @ThatIanGilbert. He has only 449 followers and just 985 Tweets. But they’re good ones…

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and this is an important factor in the movement’s success elsewhere too, the teachers are groomed early for leadership. Not so much trainee-teachers, they are ‘talent’ as far as Enseña Chile is concerned. Beyond that, they are the future leaders of this country, leaders who have cut their teeth not in industry, business or the military, but in the classroom.

What’s more, Recart’s work is so successful that he has recently been recognized with a “Social Entrepreneur of the Year” Award by the World Economic Forum.

Another busy non-governmental organization is Elige Educar, (6175 followers and 1582 Tweets) linked this time to Santiago’s prestigious Pontificia Universidad Católica.

Understanding how few talented young people seem to want to go into education as a career compared to the obvious avenues of law, medicine or engineering, this organization’s remit is to raise awareness of how rewarding and satisfying a career in education can be. Furthermore, OECD surveys show that the quality of a country’s education system is directly linked to the quality of its teachers. Shows in various towns across Chile, combined with the ever-present online social media presence, means that their message is reaching many young people throughout the country.

There are, of course, many other NGOs and “fundacións” across Chile trying to help the educational cause. All are doing great work, as are heavyweights such as UNESCO, the educational arm of UNICEF, who has a Latin-American base in Santiago and also has tremendous plans for improving education at many levels across the continent.

But, at the end of the day, educational change is down to individual teachers trying new things with willing children; this Chile seems to have in abundance. And while there are teachers who are prepared to consider that there is another way when it comes to teaching and learning, one that engages a child’s heart and mind and gets children to think – and to think for themselves without just slavish repetition of rote learning - then this country will succeed and will owe those teachers a tremendous debt of gratitude.

15

JULY 2011 / LITTLE THINKERS

Welcome to Our New Expanded

Little Thinkers Pages

In 1956 a committee of educators in the US set about an ambitious project to seek to classify the nature of learning.

Although the work remained unfinished, there was one aspect they described in particular that has since found lasting appeal.

Bloom’s Taxonomy, named after the chairman of the committee, is a powerful tool for looking not at what children are learning but how they are doing it. And when I say ‘learning’, I mean it in the true sense of the word. Remembering facts, whilst it has its uses, is the lowest part of the taxonomy, the one that involves the least amount of real thinking. Using those facts to explore, to analyse, to draw conclusions, to create, to think for themselves – that’s where the real learning comes in. How much of children’s time in Chilean classrooms is spent in such real learning currently? To what ex-

tent do the various national tests simply measure the ability of an entire generation to remember dates and places? As my 12 year old daughter said to me recently coming back from her school (for which we pay not an inconsiderable sum of money) – ”I learn nothing at school.

I memorise a lot but I don’t learn anything.”

Little Thinkers pages are designed to get children really thinking (and adults too). Memory has very little to do with doing well with these sorts of questions.

Rather you need to get your creative thinking hats on, forget about the ”one right answer” (apart from one or two questions) and just get your brain really working hard.

And have fun in the process!

Ian Gilbert

Guide to Parents and Teachers: Teaching children what to think is not enough these days. Knowledge has been democratized and everyone has access to it all of the time if they really want it. The next great step is not just teaching children what to think but how to think. This is what these Little Thinkers pages are all about, allowing you the opportunity to work with your children not to find out what they know but what they think. And the two are very different things.

Very Little Thinkers (8 years and under) The Very odd one out

Which one is the odd one out (in your opinion): a) A pineapple b) A whale c) A space rocket

Thunks ™

The answer is simple – it’s either yes or no…

Connexions

and Independent Thinking

The man behind Little Thinkers and Independent Thinking is Ian Gilbert, an educational innovator, entrepreneur and awardwinning author who has worked for two decades helping schools bring the best out of young people through improved thinking, learning, motivation, creativity.

He has recently moved to Chile to introduce his work across South America.

For more information please visit www. independentthinking.com or e-mail us on learn@independenentthinking.co.uk

Finish this short story with what you think would happen next:

d) Every day, just before, eight o’clock, something quite amazing happens to my dog…

a) Can you write on a shadow? b) Should you bully a bully? c) Can ducks get bored?

Ian Gilbert

What happens next?

Highly creative people see the way everything is linked. See if you can spot the inks between the following (and remember, there are no right answers): a) School b) Disneyland c) The cinema

Which means what?

This time there are right answers as you match the word with its meaning: a) Grateful b) Regal c) Slug

1. Fit for a king or queen 2. Showing appreciation 3. Animal like a snail without a shell

Oodles of Doodles

Which would win?

In a ‘fight’ which of the following pairs would come out on top?: a) A chicken v a penguin b) A postman v a bus driver c) A television or a computer

Turn these five circles into five different types of vehicle:

Superhero or supervillain?

If you mixed the following together would they be a superhero or supervillain and what would their special powers be? a) Father Christmas b) Hannah Montana c) SpongeBob SquarePants

Pull-Out

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16

LITTLE THINKERS / JULY 2011

Medium-Sized Little Thinkers (8-12 years) Have a go at all of the tasks in the Very Little Thinkers column but also here are some especially for you:

Mind the Gap

Here is a paragraph with some words missing for you to fill in. There are no right answers but the sentence has to make sense:

When I’m at school I ________ a lot but I never ________ unless I have to. My friend once __________ but that wasn’t my fault.

When the teacher found out he ____________ and my friend said, ‘____________ to the ____________’

Thunks ™

Here are some Thunks just for you. The answer is yes or no, getting to the answer isn’t as straightforward:

a) Is not playing chess a hobby? b) If you write the word ”run” a thousand times would you have written a short story? c) Is a tunnel through a mountain below ground?

Text Speak I

What do the following mobile phone text abbreviations stand for: a) ABT2 b) AITR c) IWALU

Text Speak II

I’ve now made up some text speak acronyms –come up with what they could stand for: a) B2B b) AFLM c) P4F d) 333

Creative commons Twisted Wikis

Here are three biographies from Wikipedia that we’ve muddled up. You have to work out which three celebrities we are talking about here and also which ‘fact’ we have simply made up:

a) He was born in 1962 and lived with his aunty and his uncle. His life changed after being bitten on the hand by a spider after which he had many hits as one of the few white rappers, selling over 12.5 million records in the UK alone. MTV voted him the 7th greatest pop icon of all time and he is currently using his tremendous wealth to help needy causes around the world with his wife Melinda.

What do the following random objects have in common: a) A shoe b) A clock c) The back of a horse

What comes next?

What is the missing fourth item in this random list and why?: a) A spoon b) A dinosaur c) A volcano erupting d) ?

One-Minute Story

Now using these same items from the list make up a story that includes them all.

If this is the answer what’s the question?

Instead of us asking you a question how about I give you some answers and let you tell me what the questions would be: A: It’s going up and down and I can’t stop it Q: ?

A: Three but sometimes five Q: ?

A: No, because it’s broken Q: ?

8Way Thinking 8Way Thinking gets you to look at the world through eight different angles – words, sights, sounds, people, feelings, actions, numbers and nature. Do an 8Way Think, where you come up with a question about the topic for each one of the eight angles, on the following topics: a) Winter b) Argentina c) Skiing

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17

JULY 2011 / LITTLE THINKERS

Big Little Thinkers (12 -100 years) You can do all the exercises I set for the Very Little Thinkers and for the Medium-Sized Little Thinkers but, also, here are some just to stretch your older brains:

Thunks™ Yes or no – what do you think? Might even be yes and no…!

a) Can you stand on the same beach twice? b) Would a baby living on a desert island know right from wrong? c) Is the journey from A to B the same journey in the dark?

Order, order!

Which means what?

This time there are right answers as you match these more complicated words with their meanings. Beware of the trick though…: a) Fertile b) Hairy c) Splendid

1. Covered in hair 2. Very impressive 3. Capable of producing lots of crops 4. Rather dangerous

Put the following in order of importance – no rights or wrongs remember: a) Me b) You c) Sight d) Warmth e) Laughter f) Music

Which almost means what?

Twisted Historical Wikis I’ve muddled up the Wikipedia histories of three countries. Tyr and untangle them and also identify the ‘fact’ that I’ve just made up

This country was home to the Incas and is named after a ruler who lived near Panama in the 16th century when it was explored by British and French expeditions. Even now there are parts of the country who speak French and only eat fish on a Tuesday although the main language is Swahili since the British granted independence in December 1963

Match up the nearest synonym (that is to say a word that effectively means the same as another word) for the following list. Again. Watch out for the trick…: a) Undaunted b) Expensive c) Fast 1. Quick 2. Immobile 3. Fearless 4. Priceless

Quick Thinking Sometimes you have to think both creatively and quickly. See how quickly you can do the following (and then try and beat your friends and family):

› Name four things that are wooden › Identity what they all have in common (apart from being wooden) › Put them in order of how long they have been in existence › Come up with how each of the four wooden items would be used by a footballer › Choose one of the items and identify three ways the world would change if that item no longer existed.

You can do the same exercise by simply changing the material…

You can all give your brains a rest now and go back to Facebook! E-mail me on ian@independentthinking.co.uk if you have any questions or want to share your answers with me. I can print my favourite answers in next month’s Little Thinkers pages.

For more Thunks check out my Little Book of Thunks or go to www.thunks.co.uk where you can add your own.

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18

THE ENTREPRENEUR HUNTER / JULY 2011

Winter Time Fun for Little People with Big Dreams

By Shonika Proctor

W

inter is often seen as a time where people have low energy and activity levels. The days are shorter and kids tend to grow restless trying to figure out something to pass the time indoors. In today’s article, I want to take a step back in time and explore a different perspective in entrepreneurship and innovation – stimulating and engaging the mind of a child! Regardless of whether your child ultimately grows up and decides to start a business, it is the skills that they learn from their life experiences that will help to significantly improve their quality of life. Whether it’s team building, solving a problem, self-confidence, determination, curiosity or speaking in front of others, these are all skills that are needed in all phases and periods of life.

Don’t think you have the entrepreneurial bug? Well no worries – all parents, grandparents or caregivers, who are constantly searching for and testing new and creative ways to occupy the time of young people-- are using entrepreneurship and innovation in its purest and most natural form, that of problem solving and imagination.

es to you with their When your child com s, share in their seemingly crazy idea ms. Replace the enthusiasm and drea and get out of the word HOW with WHO place of fear.

Everything and everyone that exists in the world of a child can be leveraged to instill the lifelong skills of entrepreneurship and innovation, whether that is learning manners at home, studying hard to get good grades in school or developing new friends in their day-to-day activities.

I believe we don’t find our passion, but our passion finds us. In fact, it has always been with us. Like many ideas that you think of throughout your life, they never go away. They just resurface stronger as we grow older and wiser and can better appreciate and cultivate them.

Our passion often comes from interests and experiences that were undeveloped, unresolved or not encouraged during our childhood years.

When your child comes to you with their seemingly crazy ideas, share in their enthusiasm and dreams. Replace the word HOW with WHO and get out of the place of fear - Fear of rejection, fear of failure and fear of being ridiculed. When a child thinks of ANY idea or invention, it is an experience and moment to be celebrated. Creativity and thinking how it is that they connect with the world around them is the very core of innovation, entrepreneurship and leadership. If you do not FULLY believe in them, it is because you do not fully believe in you. Go beyond yourself and your world, by getting out there and finding the people, places and things that can help build on their ideas.

With expert support, a different perspective and a little encouragement, you never know where those ideas will lead.

Experienced journalist needed for international agribusiness news site based in Santiago The proactive candidate would need to be able to write clean and interesting copy, with a good news sense, high level Spanish language skills and a team mentality.

The journalist must be an English native speaker.

Please send your resume and feature writing samples. journalistfp@gmail.com (6) 8342046

Following are 10 simple things you can do in your daily routine to enhance a child’s entrepreneurial thinking and imagination skills 1. Discipline: Stimulate critical thinking skills and instead of ‘time-out’ use a thinking chair. Ask your child to think of 3 other ways they could have solved their problem instead of throwing a tantrum or starting a fight, etc.

2. Puzzle: If possible, leave a puzzle in a communal place in your home. In times of frustration, teach patience and determination by recommending that your child “works the puzzle,” meaning to try to assemble it.

3. Pixtoncomics.com is a great site where children can make their own comic strips. And the personal version is free (at time of writing). They can practice telling a short story, which would be an essential skill to know for the “elevator pitch”, or offering a product to sell.

4. Film a commercial: Use a mobile device or handheld video camera such as the Flip to make a commercial.

5. Google App Inventor: The Google App Inventor is a fun and free tool available through Google that makes developing apps for a Droid phone very simple. No coding or technical expertise is needed: http://appinventor.googlelabs.com/about/.

6. Engage Teachers: For young people interested in starting a business, teachers are a great resource. The art teacher can help make a flyer, the math teacher can help figure out pricing for a proposal and the drama teacher can help prepare a presentation or speech. They can also provide you with projects and suggested reading material that can help build certain skill sets.

7. Do Something: Ashoka Youth Venture and Do Something.org are both tremendous websites that offer grants and other incentives for young people who are doing cause based initiatives.

They offer everything from startup kits to funding, depending on the idea and motivation of the young person to see their idea come alive in the real world.

8. Cooking: From taking a piece of dough and figuring out all the ways to use it – whether making pretzels, breadsticks, pasta or pastries to trying new recipes, cooking shows kids skills like improvisation, being mindful of resources, planning and being open to new things.

9. How things work (invention, innovation): – Everything around you was built by an entrepreneur.

Ask your child where they think a certain product came from. Go all the way back to when it could have been an idea and ask them why the person might have created it. Maybe it was drawn on a sheet of paper, then maybe made into a sample product (Rapid Prototype) and then it went on to be fabricated. Now write in the price of how much it cost to make, market and distribute that idea. Explore ways it can be made better. A good blog on how things work is: blog. makezine.

10. Make a business plan: A business plan needn’t be long - a one-page plan should work for most efforts. By answering the below questions, kids will be able to clearly define their products, customers and advantages: -What business am I in?

-Who are my customers?

-How will my customers know about me?

-How am I different?

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19

JULY 2011 / Eye on Vina

Winter delRMar 04

By: Andrea Ernst

By Eye on Vina Staff

The season for sunbathing on the beach has come to a close, but that does not mean that the fun has to end in Viña del Mar. From cozy cafés to the great outdoors, the Garden City provides an array of getaway spots year round.

The Eye on Viña staff shares some of their favorite places to escape to in the winter months. For more cold weather suggestions, visit us online at www.eyeonvina.com.

The director of the National Cooperation of Indigenous Development (ConadI), Jorge Retamal Rubio, who visited the high school on the Easter Island, was completely satisfied seeing how this initiative is being approved by Eye“I on Viña the population of the EasterPHOTOS: Island: am so happy to see the children talking to each other in their native tongue, recovering their dances and culture. In July, Conadi will send them on a cultural exchange to Tahiti and that is what we should keep on doing, because the language is fundamental for the development of our original villages”, he added.

ecently announced by the Minister of Education, Joaquin Lavín, pupils on Easter Island will be taught in their native language Rapa Nui. Lavín visited the Lorenzo Baeza Vega School on Easter Island and signed an agreement which permits students of first to fourth grade to receive all classes in the Rapa Nui language.

This program, called Immersion in the Language Rapa Nui, will begin this year and will use native teachers to hold the lessons. Assignments such as mathematics and language courses will be mixed with the Spanish language to avoid losing important knowledge “What we want to that is necessary for further school exachieve with this is ams. Furthermore, there will be realized the rescue of the crafts workshops, workshops of carving language and the and instrumental musicals that make up a complete program of cultural rescue habits of the Rapa Nui for the island. population. It is very Other students will continue to have good news for the their classes in Spanish but will involve people of this island.” the indigenous language Rapa Nui in their class schedule for a total of four hours weekly.

Lavín argued: “What we Gonzalo Mena During his visit to Easter Island, want to achieve with this is the rescue of Minister alsoa visited theAnlanguage and theofhabits the RapaAvenida historic center socialofmeetings, PerúLavín has been touristiceducational and social attraction sinceItthe foundation of Viña Mar. Its unique view overlooking the on Easter Island where students Nui population. is very good news for delfacilities landscape and the wide variety of restaurants and ice cream places makes have the opportunity to become specialtheamazing people of this island.” it a place visitschool, with the family. Even cloudy days, thesectors trip is for worth izedon in cold two very important theit.

Thperfect e director oftothe JacqueA common tradition on rainy and is totourism drive toand Avenida Perú and island: the farming andpark live-near line Rapo Tuki, appreciated the windy visit days the sea to wait for the waves to crash against the rocks, and splash all over the street. of the government and the fact that it stock sector. In addition, the Ministry of If it is not raining, the casino gardens provide a nice and relaxed environment for all delivered government grants stimulates spreads thea initiative: ages. Theand grounds include playground, Education puppet shows, pony rides and bicycle carts. for the acquisition of fundamental “ItAtisthe very important that we rescue the end of Avenida Perú comes Avenida San Martín, where an assortmentmateof rialsall that arelong. necessary continued cultural Rapaand Nuiinteresting heritage and wetake are place attractions events year One offor thethe main attractions of these twoDifferent sectors,shows such really thankful that the isgovernment is development along the beach paths the sand sculptures made by local artists. also line street, Just next to the local handicraft as computers, video and photo cameras taking carethe of this andespecially is helpingduring us withweekends. shops, jugglers, cheerleaders and clownsand grace the beach with their talent and farming machines. this issue”, said Rapo Tuki.

Ea

stu tau Ra

Avenidas Perú and San Martín

Enjoy del Mar Blake Appelhof

With the cold weather setting in, the opportunity for outdoor drinks and dinner is rapidly fading. Yet, this winter one restaurant in particular has decided to try something different.

Located on Avenida San Martin 199, Enjoy del Mar is said to have the best terrace view of any restaurant in all of Viña. With their high-end cuisine accompanied by a wide range of cocktails, this ocean-side restaurant has become a must visit spot on the lists of most gringos.

By installing around 20 outdoor heaters, along with a dedicated staff that seems to constantly be passing out blankets, the winter outdoor dining at Enjoy del Mar is an experience like nothing else. Whether your visit is for a quick drink, or a full course meal, Enjoy del Mar will be worth the trip.

enthusiasm.

La Campana

Patrick Milligan

La Campana, the most accessible national park in the area, sits just outside of Olmue.

To arrive, take the metro to Limache and a quick bus ride from there. The park itself contains the rocky Cerro La Campana and the rare Chilean palm forests that are in danger of extinction. Visitors can enjoy camping and hiking as well as excursions to some of the area’s abandoned mines.

Camping is probably among the best you’ll find in Chile as the sites are spread out throughout the park, rather than right on top of each other, and are set in beautiful locations. To fully appreciate the nature of the region, however, adventurous souls should make the challenging trek up Cerro La Campana. The view from the rocky summit looks like a postcard and is well worth the effort. The trip is also better done during winter, as some leaves turn color and the summer heat can be stifling during the climb.

A weekend in the park can be done on the cheap. Entrance costs CLP$1,500 per person and camping rates run at CLP$6,000 per night.

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texto ingles aviso NDC .indd

Celebrating New Year’s

at the sea

Health / JULY 2011

ver 20 tons of explosives are currently being shipped from Barcelona, Spain, to the San Antonio port in Chile. They were ordered by Mario Igual, the man in charge of one of the most extensive fireworks in the world. “New Years at the sea 2011” will illuminate 21 kilometres of Chile’s coast for a 25 minute long spectacle of light.

The fireworks are a tradition since 1952 and are accompanied by a party that shuts down streets Thedraws air pollution Santiago andtothe and over 1 in million visitors thepotential ports andnegative long term beaches each 31st.

While the show is impact on ourDecember health from breathing in the pollutants is something similar every year, some novelties straight from the that concerns us all. During the winter months when the pollution labs of Igual Pyrotechnics will surprise spectators areminutes especially high, bring outfrom your17 trump inlevels the first of 2011.

Initiated ships card and “ACE” yourat lungs against harmful effects of air del pollution. The top antilying anchor in thethe bays of Valparaiso, Viña Mar and Concón, 30.000 explosionsA,will light upC,the pollution nutrients are: Vitamin Vitamin and Vitamin E. sky. The best views are rumoured to be from the promenades of Gervasoni, Yugoslavo, Barón or 21 de Mayo. of anti-oxidants as free radical scavenBy Marcelle Dubruel gers.

There has been a lot of research on The city of Valparaiso alone spent USD $200.000 on antioxidant nutrients. The main playpollutants ozone, nitrogen dioxide, lastiryear’s red, such whiteas and blue fireworks theme.

On ers are Vitamins A, C, and E, together other tobacco thisand last dayenvironmental of 2010, thetoxins city’ssuch barsas and nightclubs powerful oxidants and capable pro-be with willsmoke openare early, while the main squareofwill filledbeta-carotene, the precursor to Vitamin ducing unstable chemicals “freeExpect radicals.” with live music untilcalled sunrise. toWe becan covered in A. The balance between your anddamage embraces when the clock hits of 00:01, butintake of antioxidants and your likenconfetti free radical or oxidation to the process theThink celebrations really start threetodays inand advance of to free radicals is the key exposure rusting. of a car continually exposed sea air the big moment, with street carnival to good health. Another importhe rusting that occurs from the ahumidity and salt inand the parade made upcontinual of actors, dancers, and point to remember is air. Similarly, exposure to airpainters, pollutantsmusicians dam- tant of course thousands of Chileans from all over thenutrients work best ages the delicate cells that line our respiratory tract. Free that country. radicals are also a natural by-product of normal cell me- in synergy. The combitabolism and we are all exposed to these unstable mol- nation of nutrients is If you want tooccur go by car, make sure to If get significantly there more ecules.

The problems when there are too many. before noon.

After that, traffic jams are likely to spoil and more left to their own devices they attack and ravage healthy effective beneficial than cells.the fun. A better idea is to take the bus, but reserve your seat well in advance. The same goes for hotels What we need to do to reduce or minimize the any one nutrient on its own. Antioxidants also help and apartments, which might already be booked oxidant or free radical damage is to eat a diet rich in boost your immune system and increase your resistance out despite of the elevated prices. Either way, the anti-oxidants. The action of anti-oxidants on free rad- to infection.

Valparaiso fireworks at the sea are an experience Which foods should we eat to maximize our antiicalsnot is totoeither add an oxygen or remove a be missed.

Happymolecule New Year! hydrogen molecule, so that it falls apart. We can think oxidant intake? Beta-carotene is found in red/orange

A

fruits and vegetables. Vitamin C is abundant in fruits and vegetables but be careful as it can be destroyed by heating and cooking so include some raw foods in your diet. Vitamin E can be found in nuts and seeds and their oils and vegetables like peas, corn and whole-grains.

Foods can be assigned ORAC units according to their “Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity”. Foods that score high in these units are especially helpful in countering oxidant or free radical damage in your body. Top scoring foods include: prunes, raisins, blueberries, blackberries, kale, strawberries, raw spinach, raspberries, plums, alfalfa sprouts, broccoli, beetroot and avocado.

You should aim to eat 5 to 7 servings of fresh fruit and vegetables daily. With a little planning this is easier that it sounds. Make a fruit smoothie for breakfast and add a cupful of frozen berries. Eat a piece of fruit with some seeds or nuts for your morning and afternoon snack. Choose a mixed salad with a variety of dark coloured vegetables with a piece of grilled fish or chicken for lunch. Include a vegetable soup, like broccoli or carrot with your evening meal. Your challenge is to manage / decrease your exposure to free radicals and increase your intake of antioxidant rich foods.

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on

ACE Your Lungs O Against Air Pollution

By Carolina Sipos

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21

JULY 2011 / Feature

By Richard Magennis

A

s the Chilean ski season is kicking off, I love Chile brings you information on the best places to hit the slopes on what it is hoping will be a snow-filled winter. Chile is undoubtedly the best ski location in South America, with the best amenities, largest variation in slopes and terrain, and most advanced technology used to maintain the quality on the slopes. The main Chilean resort, the Tres Valles (three valleys) is made up of the three interconnecting resorts: La Parva, Valle Nevado and El Colorado.

Their close proximity to the sprawling urban centre of Santiago makes these three resorts extremely popular with citygoers and tourists alike.

El Valle Nevado is the largest and newest of the three resorts and attracts a very international crowd including many Argentineans and Brazilians. These may be the reasons for which the prices are literally sky-high. Its isolation means that if you choose to stay the night, you are forced to reside in the onsite accommodation which would severely stretch most budgets. The resort is the furthest of the three from Santiago, and is only accessible by a treacherous road which is often slow due to blockages. With the negatives aside, this resort boasts an excellent amount of snow with the best lift system in Chile, including the Tres Puntos Poma lift, the longest one in South America. The Tres Puntos lift drops you at a staggering height of 3,670m.

However, this is not noticeable given the 6,000m Cerro Plomo that looms over the resort. The slopes are mainly intermediate; however, you can ski at a more advanced level if you wander off the beaten track.

El Colorado is the nearest resort to Santiago and the cheapest of the three. The resort is split into two; the first part of which sits alongside the village of Farellones and offers easy beginner slopes, and the second part, El Colorado, forms the main ski area and is made up mainly of intermediate slopes. The two areas are connected via a lift.

There is accommodation in the village of Farellones such as the Posada Farellones Backpacker’s Hostel which offers a cheaper alternative to some of the more expensive hotels at the foot of the slopes. The village also provides a rather buoyant nightlife for the resort. Some of the downsides are that the views are not the best seen in Chile’s ski resorts, and when the wind is in the wrong direction, half of the resort will lack snow. Furthermore, as with the other two Tres Valle resorts, the slopes are above the tree line-- meaning a slightly featureless ski experience. The interconnectivity of the three resorts means it is easy to mistakenly ski down into one of the other resorts, which can be a problem unless

As the Chilean ski season is kicking off, I love Chile brings you information on the best places to hit the slopes on what it is hoping will be a snow-filled winter. Chile is undoubtedly the best ski location in South America, with the best amenities, largest variation in slopes and terrain, and most advanced technology used to maintain the quality on the slopes.

The main Chilean resort, the Tres Valles (three valleys) is made up of the three interconnecting resorts: La Parva, Valle Nevado and El Colorado. Their close proximity to the sprawling urban centre of Santiago makes these three resorts extremely popular with citygoers and tourists alike. you have a lift pass which grants you unlimited access.

La Parva is the resort most popular with well-off Chilean families, and the least crowded of the three Tres Valle resorts. Although the size of the ski area is relatively small, the varied terrain and large proportion of vertical slopes makes for extremely fun skiing. Moreover, the opportunities to go skiing off-slope are abundant, depending on the conditions. At the top of the main slope there is a good bar serving up a range of food and drinks – something

PHOTO: NEVADOS DE CHILLÁN

Ski Chile

the other two resorts are lacking. Furthermore, La Parva offers skiers an amazing view of the city below, providing that the smog isn’t too thick and an unforgettable sunset at the end of the day. Prices here aren’t as steep as Valle Nevado, and the village of Farellones lies a mere 15 minutes away for cheaper accommodation.

PORTILLO. Leaving Santiago and heading North for 164km on the Mendoza route via Los Andes, you will come to the prestigious resort of El Portillo. This exceptionally beautiful resort is best known for the lake at its centre separating the two main ski areas. The slopes present a challenging terrain even if the ski area is not that large, and the quality of the snow is generally excellent even when it’s been a while after the last major snowfall. However, as with all the resorts in the region, it is recommended to make the best of the slopes from 10-2 to avoid the early morning ice and the afternoon slush. The resort proudly presents an outstanding ski school that has had four Olympic champions as their directors, and boasts of its ability to host world-class events such as the 1966 Ski World Championship. Although the hotels are generally quite expensive and the isolated location can create a cruise ship atmosphere, El Portillo has good nightlife. The most economical hotel is the Octagon Hotel. However, if it’s luxury you’re after, the Grand Hotel is your best option. This is not the resort for anyone on a shoestring budget.

NEVADOS DE CHILLÁN. About 400km south of Santiago lies the town of Chillán, home to its own ski resort, Los Nevados de Chillán (formally known as Los Termas de Chillán). The resort provides its visitors with an all-round winter experience from dog sled circuits to snowmobile rentals. The skiing is also of a high standard, with a good range of slopes. It offers the longest ski slope in South America, Las Tres Maríasat 13km long, and a Nordic-style crosscountry ski course--all of which are to be found on the side of the Volcano Chillán. The lower altitude of the resort when compared to those closer to Santiago, means that skiers are treated to an ancient forest setting when shooting down the slopes. However, the jewels in the crown of Nevados de Chillán are its 9 thermal hot springs which provide a source of mineral-rich relaxation at the end of a long day on the slopes.

The major downside of the resort are the high prices. The self-catering apartments are the best value and are available for groups of 4, 5 or 6 people. Or, if you don’t mind that your day’s schedule would be restrained by the bus that leaves and returns once a day, a $25 taxi or the luck you have by sticking out your thumb, you could stay in a hotel outside the resort.

There are usually cars passing that are willing to transport you to the resort, and it is usually safe to do so.

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Interview / JULY 2011

Globetrotting Magic

“It takes more than being a good basketball player to be a Harlem Globetrotter,” Daley says. “You have to be a good person. You have to have made good choices throughout your entire life. If you were a criminal with great basketball skills, most likely you wouldn’t be on the team. It took me making some very good decisions throughout my life to get to this point. We all know right from wrong.”

PHOTOS: FÉNIX CHILE

By Harper Bridgers

A

lmost 24 million people in the U.S. watched the definitive Game 6 of the NBA finals this year, let alone however many other millions watched around the world. Everyone from children to senior citizens yelled at their TV screens and stared unblinkingly until their eyes nearly bled, captivated until the final seconds and probably a little longer still. They stood behind their favorite multi-million dollar players to victory, and for some no doubt, to defeat. A lot was on the line – millions of dollars in winnings, more millions in future boosts in ticket and merchandise sales and even more millions in highervalued contracts and endorsements, not to mention the pride that comes with an NBA championship.

You don’t need Mark Cuban to tell you that with all that at stake, the game turns into somewhat of stressful experience, like any lucrative sport. Replace the money lust and cut-throat competition with goodwill diplomacy, and that’s a lot like what the Harlem Globetrotters have been doing for more than 85 years in over 25,000 games.

A smooth and entertaining blend of skill, trickery and showmanship, the Globetrotters push the limits on how a ball can be passed, dribbled, shot, dropped, twirled, slung and dealt. Memorably accompanied by their theme song “Sweet Georgia Brown” in which whistles carry the lead, the magicians of basketball substitute high profiles for a sense of humor and sport. It’s what the game, according to some, should be all about.

“The main [idea] really is to have fun through sports,” says Kevin “Special K” Daley, one of the team leaders and a Guinness World Record holder. “Just enjoy yourself. Sports don’t have to be so serious all the time.”

Wearing number 21 on their signature red, white and blue, his on-court position is Showman according to the Globetrotters’ official website; however the title superficially attempts to honor a performer of basketball theatrics, like if LeBron James joined Cirque du Soleil. Daley and his teammates exhibit another standard of play.

“My personal mission is to make sure that everyone leaves that arena entertained, definitely laughing, forgetting about whatever troubles they may have had when they walked into that arena. At least for that moment they’ve forgotten about it and are having a good time,” Daley says in a recent phone interview from his Dallas, Texas, home.

“And it’s for them to return when we come back, whatever year we may come back.”

Gearing up for an upcoming South American tour, Daley finetunes his game when he is not spending time with his wife and kids. He keeps his shot on point, maintains his physical condition and rehearses his signature halfcourt hook shot, dedicating anywhere from eight to ten hours a week in the gym during the off season. The hook

shot, an impressive move in general, takes plenty of practice, he says, especially from halfcourt. Out of every seven games, he probably makes the basket in five. That’s what the Globetrotters bring to the fans – an exposition of the improbable, the inconceivable and the downright thrilling.

“We do the “magic circle” in the beginning of the game, where everyone comes out and displays what they can do with the ball,” Daley says. “Everybody does different tricks with the ball – rolling it down their neck, catching it and spinning it on their head.”

It’s an image that an older generation may remember as a 1970s cartoon, slick exchanges and ball handling that defy the laws of physics, like a team of superheroes assembling to demonstrate their otherworldly powers. The Globetrotters, or representations of them, have starred in movies and TV shows, and they have entertained presidents and popes with hands that deceive and ball skills that show up many NBA stars.

“We take the fundamentals to another level, basically.

That’s what we do,” Daley says. “We work on our individual ball-handling skills, and then we work on our Globetrotter plays – plays that you would never see anywhere else except on a Globetrotter team.”

Ever since the team’s beginnings in the south side of Chicago, the players have been notorious for showboating,

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but it has never been simply a circus out there. During real exhibition matches, fancy tricks wouldn’t surface until a generous lead was established. When the entertainment factor started to outshine the actual game, the Globetrotters incorporated more and more comic routines. They made the opponent look foolish, a playful form of domination, by dribbling circles around them, juggling multiple balls and disorienting the other team with blinding coordination.

Every individual player has flexed his skill at the college level, Daley says, and that includes off court. Education represents a major aspect of success, a lesson they emphasize when visiting schools, hospitals and charity events. The Globetrotter organization dedicates a substantial amount of money and time to help children physically, mentally and socially. Promoting an active childhood to prevent obesity, preparing kids for challenges they will soon face in adolescence and stressing the significance of an education, they truly serve as diplomats of athleticism and integrity in the community.

“We like to let people know that education is very important to reach your goals. None of us would be on this team if we didn’t go through college. That’s something very important that a lot of kids don’t realize, because they think that just because we’re playing sports that we didn’t go to school.”

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JULY 2011 / Interview

From college, some played in professional leagues around the world before being recruited by the Globetrotters. Raw talent alone will not earn you a spot on a team with such a high standard of conduct for its members, whether they are wearing the jersey or not.

“It takes more than being a good basketball player to be a Harlem Globetrotter,” Daley says. “You have to be a good person. You have to have made good choices throughout your entire life. If you were a criminal with great basketball skills, most likely you wouldn’t be on the team. It took me making some very good decisions throughout my life to get to this point. We all know right from wrong.”

Daley grew up in Panamá before moving to Los Angeles. One of the proudest moments in his career was when the Globetrotters packed out the arena in Panamá City.

Seeing that kind of support was outstanding, he says.

“Once I became a Globetrotter, I saw the bigger picture,” Daley says. “I enjoy what I do as a Globetrotter because of how much good I do for people by just stepping on the court and making them laugh.”

As one of the most senior members of the team, Daley assumes an important leadership role to guide rookies through the initiation process. Anthony “Ant” Atkinson joined the squad just a couple years ago. At 5 foot 10 inches, his nickname seems adequate, although there’s nothing

“It’s been an incredible experience, traveling all over the world, playing for so many people,” Atkinson says.

There is a lot to learn when you represent not just a team or an organization, but a philosophy. meager about his moves. From Wilson, North Carolina, a town of a mere 45,000, Atkinson amazed high school basketball audiences before attending Campbell University.

He later transferred to play at Barton College in his hometown, where he lead one of the most riveting comebacks in college basketball history to win the Division II NCAA championship in the last seconds. It became quite a YouTube hit.

“It’s been an incredible experience, traveling all over the world, playing for so many people,” Atkinson says. There is a lot to learn when you represent not just a team or an organization, but a philosophy.

“Just because you join the team, you don’t automatically become a Globetrotter, because it takes a whole lot more to become a Globetrotter than just wearing the uniform,” Daley says. “You have to know the history of it. You have to know the importance of it. You have to know how people view you now as a Globetrotter. You have to carry yourself as a Globetrotter even when you’re out of uniform. Even

on the elevator or walking down the street. You have to carry yourself respectfully as a Globetrotter. If somebody needs help, they might not even know you’re Globetrotter, but you just help them because that’s what we do. I have to teach [rookies] that it’s more than just on the court. There’s a lot of it that’s off the court that people don’t see. And to be very, very proud of what you’re doing for a living. And don’t let anybody come in and mess up what we’re doing so great.”

Atkinson joins an all-time roster with names like Wilt “The Stilt” Chamberlain and Fred “Curly” Neal, players who solidified the Globetrotters’ place in the history of basketball as feel-good entertainment. It has been a few years since they brought their antics to Santiago de Chile. It’s something Daley is looking forward to, reflecting on the warm welcome they received during the last visit. He remembers the high energy, energy which fuels the players to perform at their highest potential. It’s not the NBA. They don’t play with millions on the line. But the excitement is practically the same.

“In the arena [the energy] is incredible. We feed off of the crowd,” Daley says. “I’ll be the first one in line coming out, and I hear the crowd. That’s the automatic energy I get right there in that moment. They’re screaming, happy that we’re there, and we feel it.”

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Tourism / JULY 2011

Alto Atacama

PHOTOS: MAURICIO CANCINO

By Ben Angel

A

n aging fortress overlooks a garden oasis in the middle of the driest desert in the world.

That oasis, nestled comfortably at the foot of the Andes Mountains, is called the Alto Atacama.

An article in Condé Nast Digital’s “Hotel Chatter” website listed the Alto Atacama as one of the Top 5 honeymoon hotels in the world, alongside properties in Hawaii, Buenos Aires, the Antilles, and the Maldives. Alvarado Mendez, the Alto Atacama’s assistant manager, suggested the reason for this could be because of the need for couples to get away from the bustle of the big cities such as Santiago. Still, the words of the writer describing the surroundings as magical seem to indicate that it is more than “quiet” that places it in the 2011 list of the Top 5.

National Geographic, the journal of the U.S. scientific society by the same name, listed the hotel as the number one hotel on its 2011 Chilean “Stay List”. The focus of their praise appeared to be on the methods of environmental management used by the hotel.

A garden in the desert The Atacama Desert, for which the hotel is named, is special unto itself. Writers describe its flats and rock formations as “other-worldly,” an image not dispelled by the United States space program’s continued use of the region to test hardware destined for Mars. Still, people have lived at the edges of the Atacama for thousands of years, and have been witness to its quiet beauty, its majestic mountains, the many visits by creatures of hoof and wing, its sunrises that symbolize the beginning of life, and its sunsets that symbolize the approach of death.

About 7-1/2 years ago, Andres Mac Lean decided to create a refuge in the green Catarpe River valley just outside of San Pedro de Atacama, a cultural center from before the time of the Incas.

Behind a protective wall set on the valley floor, he worked closely with Veronica Poblete, a “paisajista” or landscape architect, to create an exotic South American garden on 20,000 square meters of land, set in among low buildings covered by adobe clay colored in the same hue as the surrounding hills.

In this “Andean Scape,” a creation Poblete had long planned that incorporated both local plants and pieces of Atacamaño culture (and for which the hotel won the 2008 Colegio de Arquitectos de Chile design award for blending into the local landscape), a world-class hotel was founded.

• An aging fortress overlooks a garden oasis in the middle of the driest desert in the world. That oasis, nestled comfortably at the foot of the Andes Mountains, is called the Alto Atacama.

• An article in Condé Nast Digital’s “Hotel Chatter” website listed the Alto Atacama as one of the Top 5 honeymoon hotels in the world, alongside properties in Hawaii, Buenos Aires, the Antilles, and the Maldives. Alvarado Mendez, the Alto Atacama’s assistant manager, suggested the reason for this could be because of the need for couples to get away from the bustle of the big cities such as Santiago. Still, the words of the writer describing the surroundings as magical seem to indicate that it is more than “quiet” that places it in the 2011 list of the Top 5.

• National Geographic, the journal of the U.S. scientific society by the same name, listed the hotel as the number one hotel on its 2011 Chilean “Stay List”. The focus of their praise appeared to be on the methods of environmental management used by the hotel.

For eight centuries, the valley has been regarded by the local people as a source of treasure. This treasure isn’t composed of gold or gems, but rather something much more important: water. Around 1200 A.D., the Aymara people who lived on the Bolivian Altiplano, driven by drought, raided down the Catarpe against the Atacamaños, who cultivated plenty of food with their water sources. In response to the Aymara raid, the Atacamaños built the Pukara de Quitor fortress to guard against further attacks.

Today, the ruins of that fortress overlook the garden and hotel grounds, which are supplied by a salty water reservoir from a little over 70 meters below the ground; absolutely none of the water supply comes from the surface flow of the Catarpe River. The entire hotel and garden uses an average of 1.2 liters per second for irrigation and potable water use, according to Mendez. In order to render it usable for the hotel and the garden, it passes through a reverse osmosis desalinization and filtration system. Gray water (wastewater that does not include sewage) is filtered as well and used to supply additional irrigation water.

The menu grows outside your window The irrigation water flows into various parts of the garden, including the carob-tree piazza (“Plaza de los Algarrobos”), the French garden (an area of hedges reminiscent of the Royal French Gardens), and the Orchard (containing both fruit trees and vegetable gardens). And throughout the grounds, native foodbearing plants and greens wait to be picked.

This translates into a unique menu of dishes that

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mix into European recipes uniquely South American ingredients To use just one meal as an example, consider a fresh pasta stuffed with quinoa – an Andean pseudo-cereal – and wheat-roasted eggplant, as well as home-made ice cream flavored with nuts from the hotel orchard.

Breakfasts are buffet-style, and are relatively light fare when compared to both of the other three-course meals. Still, granola can be mixed with yoghurt or milk; avocado can be spread on toast that is cooked on a quick little conveyor belt, and augmented with cheese, ham, or turkey; and coffee, tea, and juice wait to be sampled.

The common building where meals are served features an adobe interior with ancient depictions of importance to the Atacamaños. Hunters chasing prey are depicted near the fireplace and bar area where tour guides chat about the next day’s offerings to guests over mixes of local nuts with standard bar nut offerings, and couples meet couples while playing checkers or other nicely maintained board games. Primitive pictures of alpacas tending to their young demark the dining area.

Sleeping areas are for sleeping The rooms, however, feature walls of darker adobe and wall hangings of natural fibers that were chosen to provide relief and rest from a bright summer afternoon. Above the living area, an air passage receives the

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JULY 2011 / Tourism

heat produced by the sunlight beating down upon the exterior adobe surface of the roof, and carries it away, keeping the rooms cool without resorting to air conditioning. The curtains are heavy enough to block out daylight, if needed.

This is not a hotel designed for those who like to rest in bed and watch television. There are no TVs in any of the rooms, only piped-in soft music that a guest can only turn the volume up or down. Smoking is not allowed in any of the buildings, even in the private rooms. Wi-Fi exists, but the signal is very weak at best within the sleeping areas. To make use of the Wi-Fi, a guest would need to take the laptop to the common area.

It’s in the common area that guests find a largescreen Samsung television. A book-drop sits near Reception, where a person who has finished their copy of Danielle Steele can swap for Dan Brown.

Even a Russian guide to Peru recently sat waiting for the next Cyrillic-reading traveler to come along and pick it up.

But the rooms are made for calm and quiet, or rather to serve as refuges. The showers are apparently heated by an electrical inline heater, which can be slower to heat up water than a gas-fired inline heater when the morning is cold. But the floors are heated by electrical elements within the tiles, and this lends comfort to the wait.

The Puri Spa Spas are usually offered at resort-level hotels, and

the Alto Atacama is no exception. However, the spa breaks with the rest of the hotel in that it offers, instead of traditions associated with the Atacameño culture, a focus on India. This is perhaps because the masseuses of the Spa, although Chilean by birth, are very well-versed in Indian techniques regarding body and wellness.

The spa offers guests several options for body treatments, Reiki therapy, and relaxation therapy.

For the latter of these three, relaxation therapy, the most basic of these is relaxation massage. This is described as the use of a Shiatsu massage technique, which uses fingers and palms to release tensions.

Additionally, the masseuse relaxes the person on the table with the use of lavender oil, the scent of which is supposed to release tensions from the body.

Again, the technique, applied to the back, seems to make strong use of the Indian concept of chakra, with the masseuse concentrating greatly on the areas of the body where the chakras are supposed to be located. The technique appears to make use of repetitive massage upon the tense parts of the body, as well as the chakra “force centers”. The end of the massage frequently leaves the person on the table asleep, according to masseuse Susana.

Tours into the desert Each day, there is a morning and an evening tour operating in a number of different areas near San Pedro de Atacama, each led by an Atacameño tour

guide. Each guide had been conducting tours before coming to work for the Alto Atacama, and is very familiar with the area. Where they may have been weak before on a particular subject, all guides receive frequent training, and they are quite capable of answering almost any question, whether on archeology, geology, history, flora, fauna, or culture in general.

According to Mendez, each guide is certified as a Wilderness First Responder by the U.S.-based National Outdoor Leadership School (or NOLS).

As such, the guides appear to be multi-lingual, and capable of explaining things in at least English and Spanish (the Atacameño language has been extinct since the 1950s).

Carolina provided an excellent example of the care for which the tour guides at the Alto Atacama are known. She showed close attention to each member of the party, ensured that their questions were answered, and kept good watch on the safety of her people while they were at each of the different sites in the Valley of the Moon. At the sunset viewpoint, the van was kept separate from other tour groups watching the same sight, and even amidst the cold wind at the edge of a cliff, they set up a table for wine and cheese. It lent a wonderfully decadent feel to the end of a nice afternoon amidst the jagged rocks west of San Pedro.

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26 PHOTOS: Courtesy puntarenas.cl

PATAGONIA / JULY 2011

Heating up Chile’s far south

By Jayne Scarman

Y

ou could be forgiven for thinking that with the arrival of the winter solstice, the far south of Chile would become inhospitable. As Santiago shivers under its electric blankets, the thought of enduring nights, sub-zero temperatures, and carpets of snow all lead one to imagine the region of Magallanes as strictly a summer destination. Not so, however, as it is in June and July when things really heat-up down there.

Organized by the municipality of the regional capital Punta Arenas, the ”Invernadas” - or winter season - is the city’s street festival, stuffed to the gills with cultural panoramas that leave its visitors in awe.

Celebrating its 15th year in 2011, the two-day winter solstice carnival boasts street musicians, art exhibitions, fashion shows, craft fairs, literary events and sports, all culminating with the crowning of the winter queen, who dons the winter carnival crown.

And this is just the start; the solstice festival kicks off 40 days of celebrations in the region. Amongst them is the Patagonia folklore festival, now in its 23rd year, where local artists present their own original songs.

Heats take place throughout June and July, before the competition finals at the end of August. This is the place to hear the region’s finest work in the genres of

cumbia, milonga, cueca and more.

Not for the faint hearted, but why not join in the Chapuzón? It’s a refreshing dip in the freezing Magallanes Straits - a contest guaranteed to sort the men from the boys. Or for those who prefer to stay warm and dry, take advantage of the long nights by enjoying evenings of dance, band nights and gastronomic shows.

Towards the end of July comes the “Corrida de los hielos”, a marathon of arts and sport on ice. This precedes an explosive firework display to rival that of the traditional summertime new year, bringing the Invernadas once more to a close.

The Regional Director of Sernatur, Andrea Téllez, extended an invitation to the Invernadas to the whole country, emphasizing that Punta Arenas, and the region of Magallanes, make an excellent winter vacation spot. “This is the season that’s good for families to enjoy activities that allow them to share in and enjoy culture and art. That is why I’d like to invite people with plans to travel to visit Chilean Patagonia; they won’t regret it. There is much to see this winter and the “Invernadas” add a tremendous amount of activity for all ages and for all tastes”.

Calendar June 21st Winter Solstice party June 22nd-24th June 25th June 26th July 1st-2nd July 3rd July 8th-10th July 9th-10th July 9th July 11th-14th July 12th July 13th July 13th-14th July 15th-17th July 18th-22nd July 18th-24th July 19th July 20th-24th July 22nd July 23rd July 23rd-24th July 23th July 24th

Student folklore festival recreational evening for older adults Biker and Skate exhibition Gastronomy show Civic parade International winter futsal championship Folklore festival heats Noche de Peñas: artists in the city Children’s cinema cycle Band night Evenings of dance Arts and sport on ice Small business show Literary talks and storytelling Book fair Crowning the Winter Queen Craft fair Nautical festival Chapuzón and international regatta Winter Carnival “Corrida de los Hielos” marathon Close of Invernadas with firework display PHOTO: Courtesy Puerto Varas

Here comes the rain again

By Jayne Scarman What do you do when it rains? Curl up on the sofa with a good book or don your rubber boots and go splashing about in the puddles? Well, if you live in Puerto Varas, it’s the second. In honour of its pluvial climate, each winter the Los Lagos region town grabs its umbrellas and celebrates its rain festival (or Festival de la Lluvia). And people in the town sure know how to party, as the week long festivities are characterised by some pretty crazy shenanigans...

Bed race

Yes, a bed race. Locals in fancy dress race around the streets of Puerto Varas in specially decorated beds, everything from the marital boudoir to grandma with her frilly sheets.

Umbrella parade

Another excuse to get all dressed-up and parade through the town under the shelter of some fantastical creations - the roads are awash with multicoloured, fabulously decorated umbrellas.

Rain bars

If it’s shelter you’re looking for, the bars and pubs of Puerto Varas host special happy hours throughout the week.

Dress the town

White lights twinkle in the windows of local shops, hotels and restaurants - a sight to behold from the shores of Lago Llanquihue.

The rain festival is enjoying its third year in 2011.

In addition to the parades, locals and visitors to Puerto Varas alike also got to enjoy late night shopping, documentaries and art exhibitions in celebration of rain, a gourmet market and a masquerade ball, among other activities. So next autumn, why not dig out your waterproofs and head on down to Puerto Varas for some fun in the rain!

Almost well-read, a very Chilean take on nightlife and culture, every Tuesday on www.ilovechile.cl

27

JULY 2011 / FASHION

Dress The Mad Men Way

By Gary Mallon

I

t’s got me hooked! Following in the footsteps of LOST and Prison Break another award winning TV drama series from the USA is occupying any spare minute I have right now. Distinct in content to the other two and more recently aired on prime time, the show has an added element of attraction for me. Sterling Cooper’s corporate environment of the 1960’s has become the reference for various modern day style icons and a catalyst for the rebirth of what is affectionately becoming know in the fashion industry as ‘Mad Style’.

In Mad Men, similar to the policy of many well heeled office environments in the ‘60s, Sterling Cooper’s dress code requires Don Draper (the leading character) et al. to be properly dressed at all times. In the early ‘60s, when the series first takes place, a well turned-out man wore classically cut suits and coats, and never forgot the obligatory accessories like ties, hats and lighters. While modern day corporate life in Santiago may not call for this kind of look on a regular basis, wouldn’t it be fun to mix things up once in a while?

It`s so easy to be enamoured by the slick outfits on display and think to yourself: “How can I look like that?” Well actually the desired effect is not too difficult to achieve with a little style advice and inspiration. Let me explain.

Ignoring the chain smoking and the serving of bourbon every time one of your team enters your office / the board room (It’s best to use the show as inspiration rather than a blueprint,) if you stick to the fashion principle of less is more when it comes to colour and pattern you too could become a Mad Man for the day!

Dress The Mad Men Way While the wardrobes of the Sterling Cooper advertising agency may seem standardised on the surface, all dark coloured suits, light-coloured shirts and simple signature ties, each of the main characters distinguishes himself through small details. Within the bounds of a fairly narrow genre of dressing, each character imposes his own individual trademark, something that characterizes every man of style. So which Mad Man are you?

Bertram Cooper, the firm’s senior partner, is in the twilight of his career, and his clothes are a throwback to the style of his early years. He comes from another generation, suggesting a 1930s Esquire illustration with his patterned suits, bow ties, burgundy pocket squares, and tattersall shirts. He’s out of fashion but he doesn’t care. Every man should reach this point.

Roger Sterling’s partner status is conveyed by an extra layer of wool.

He wears three-piece suits (the vests add to the suit›s expense, and thus his status), while his inferiors wear two-piece suits. The interns in the mail room wear just one, working in their short sleeves and pants. Sterling’s status-raising style also exemplifies historian Pearl Binder’s assertion that in all cultures and at all times “the neck has been the focal point of masculine self-assertion.” Sterling wears a rounded club collar which is making a comeback, affixed with a collar pin.

Another accessory used to convey power is Don Draper›s (the principal character) cuff links that, along with his TV-fold handkerchief and extrarestrained wardrobe, distinguish the creative director from inferiors like Pete Campbell.

Campbell, the ambitious prep-school kid, still gives off a collegiate air with his Brooks Brothers-styled sack suits often in blue (see photo, extreme left) when others are dressed in grey and details like natural shoulders in his suits and lapped seams, (key features of a custom made suit!)

The firm’s art director, Salvatore Romano, shows he’s on the creative side of the business via double-breasted suits (which are currently making a comeback!) worn at the low point of their popularity and the colour scarlet red (on a sweater) at its height.

Finally, Harry Crane’s retro spectacles, pipes, bow ties, and tattersall vests are a reminder that genius in style should have merely a touch of madness. Worn together in 2011, these accessories would create vintage overload, overshadowing the man himself. And nothing you wear should ever do that All these Mad Men would find it unthinkable to wear anything other than a suit when they want to put their best foot forward and present a polished image. However, rather than saving it for the right occasion, take a tip from the men at Sterling Cooper and try wearing it around your office for a couple of weeks. Who knows? Your employer might start thinking you’re searching for better job prospects and you could land yourself a promotion! www.trajealamedida.cl

Get the latest news headlines everyday on www.ilovechile.cl

28

LOW RENT / JULY 2011

Love and Confusion

By Sean Black Love is unconditional….relationships are not.

- Grant Gudmundson

I

can see the gringos now, their pasty white legs (“da legs of eh pig” as a friend of mine says) partially covered in cargo shorts and sporting sandals on those battered feet with yellowed toenails kept confined in winter boots and wool socks for 5 months, their Hawaiian shirts filtering the humid summer breeze off Lake Ontario, beer spilling onto the patio of the Black Bull Tavern, watching the action, lazily spending the pay day away and dreaming of… (don’t laugh), Love. Summertime in Gringolandia. Well ok, I am thinking about Toronto, which is not technically gringo – but all foreigners are the same to me now…

And as I envision this summery scene in my mind, a shroud of smog (“smog that you eat with a fork, not with a spoon!”) wraps its long nebulous fingers around Santiago’s neck, sticking its rank, toxic tongue down our throats while the Andes vamp out and disappear in the background.

The air is cooling off, women are dusting off their leather SS boots and the night air is once again saturated with the sickly comforting fumes of burning kerosene. For most Santiaguiños, this is the time for wine-fuelled depressions and sickness of Edgar Allan Poeportions. Unventilated bedroom windows are sealed shut, odors are culled with chemical sprays and the coughing commences… oooooooh hace friiiio! And just you wait until the temperature drops below 15°C! But not this Gringo. Nowayjose. This is my time! During the “reverse” Chilean winter from June to September, I tend to start those summertime activities that are too expensive or are too crowded to get to in the Chilean summer – surfing the empty beaches in Punto de Lobos or in Maitencillo during July or August is way safer and more fun with less people, just watch out for them gnarly bladder infections dude! And there is nothing like the moonlit, snowcovered landscape up in Baños Morales during this season.

For some reason, in spite of the suffocating “air” and wristslitting demeanor of the locals, my mind, body and soul also become energized and dominated with thoughts about (as it is written in the book of Abraham) “gettin’ down”. A reverse spring fever sets in. But love in Chile brings its own set of issues and puzzles to be resolved, like opening one of those freaky Moroccan puzzle boxes, or negotiating your way into the metro on the Baquedano platform at 7:30 am… Let me explain.

A few years ago I woke up at an X’s apartment. She had gone to work and had left me alone in her bed among the deluge of clothes, pink curtains, and assorted flowery un-

identifiables. As I rose from the girly squalor, I noticed a birthday card this ski instructor guy that I had only heard about as being a “friend”. I opened the card and was a little stunned to see it signed as “Te Quiero, -X Now, the literal translation of te quiero (tq) into English would be “I want you”, but this is not at all what it means. It actually means I love you, and so I asked the aforementioned X about the tq in question and she was adamant that this was not “I love you” as we say it in English, which would be “te amo”, but rather I love you as you would say to your pet guinea pig, your Barbie doll, or maybe your bestest bestest special pal. Our relationship was in English and she had told me several times that she loved me in English but never in Spanish. So I asked her point blank, “¿me amas?” “no, pero te quiero” “so when you say you love me in English it is the same as with ski instructor boy?” “no, I love ski instructor boy as only friend and you I love as lover” “¿me amas?” “….no” “Do you love me?” “…..si” I’ve had days in Chile when the mysteries of Spanish language leave me wide-eyed and stammering, pleading with anyone I can find for explanations to perceived injustices or what would seem to be conveniently missing logic.

Rodrigo, an unsmiling, grey-suited accountant; a man of equations and ledgers for whom I taught English, at that time was the only “anyone” willing to listen to me and systematically explain. He took the white board marker from my hand in the stuffy board room / classroom, and began

outlining a chart containing from top to bottom, the following information: 1- te amo, 2- te quiero mucho, 3- te quiero, 4- me gustas mucho, 5- me gustas, 6- te estimo.

“When the woman says I love you in English and she is Spanish native,” he explained, “it can mean any from numbers 1-3.”

“Which of those 3 is the love that I am thinking in English?” I asked.

“Number 1 is this love,” explained Rodrigo, both of us gazing at the whiteboard and the neatly spaced Love Degree Chart. “She says love and is thinking any from 1-3” What a scam, I thought. Just another lie in the long, dark procession of lies regarding love, this language trick probably created by Spanish-speaking mathematicians to confuse English speaking romantics- to be employed by players and charlatans…

“Does she love me and ski instructor boy the same? I mean, you know, in the same way?” I asked.

“According to this table… yes, you are both #3 to her and no more.” Said Rodrigo still marveling at his carefully marked board, erasing and straightening lines and corners here and there, captured like Narcissus by his own mug.

Fuming, I began thinking of ways to dump Rodrigo from my schedule. How could I ever have a conversation about love with someone who wears argyle socks, a numbers pervert? What does he know about modern, bicultural, bilingual relationships and their subtle intricacies, anyway? He looked down to the table where I sat.

“Well, teacher,” (arms folded over his wool vest) “we know what she means when she says love, she means the # 3. What is it that you are saying when you say it?”

Rodrigo looked from me to the board and back again wearing this grim accountant contentment. I understood then that I wasn’t clear about what I was telling anyone, that I didn’t have love completely worked out - chopped up and diced into parameters and designated for appropriate circumstances. I didn’t tell this to Rodrigo, but he could probably see on my face, that I was utterly confused.

“Can you pay in cash for the class today Rodrigo?”

Quizco, Horcon, and Maitencillo are just some of the beautiful places to visit during Chile’s winter months. The prices are considerably lower than in the summer months.

The winds are vigorous off the Pacific and you can watch the gulls feast and fight over that which washes up to shore.

The locals seem happier to see you. You can rent the best surfboards and the wetsuits have been adequately cleaned.

There are no tourists this time of the year demanding this and that and peeing on the sides of the buildings. And most importantly, it is quiet and far away enough to take someone’s warm hand, walk down a deserted boardwalk and just know.

Follow Soltera in Santiago, the single gringa about town, every Thursday on www.ilovechile.cl

29

JUly 2011 / sports

All eyes on la Roja in the The Highs and Lows

I

Though Argentina, who will host the competition for the ninth time, and Uruguay are the most decorated teams, each with 14 titles, Brazil is the team to bid on. The Scratch has won four of the last five Copa Americas.

of Chile’s Tourism Industry

How have the events, which have occurred throughout this year, affected your company?

On the earthquake: “... It was in our agenda to provide services for an international construction congress, which was going to take place in Santiago this past September, being the MOP (Public Works Ministry) our main sponsor.

For obvious reasons, the money they had destined for the congress had to be used immediately after the earthquake in order to aid the affected regions in the south of Chile.” - Cristian Martinez, General Manager of Pacifico Andino Expeditions, Urban & Adventure Tours Chile On the US dollar exchange rate: “Any kind of important event in Chile will affect my business directly. Lately it has been the instability in the American currency (I charge in US dollars), which means that we have to charge more. We are now less competitive in the South American market when it comes to tourism because Chile is one of the most expensive countries for tourists. That obviously means that they tend to stay less time here.” - Hector Medina, owner of “Hector’s Private & Flexible Tour Service”

By Al Ramirez

try not to exclude any information that can benefit our country and its regions.”

- Rodrigo Gonzalez, General Manager of “ChileXclusive Travel & Incoming” COURTESY PHOTO

S Copa America 2011 ummer’s almost here and the season has already begun to take shape for those in the tourism industry. High season begins in mid-December and ends around mid-March.

Studies show that over the last five years, tourism in Chile has been growing an PHOTO: Courtesy Diario La Cuarta

By Pascal Mathieu average of 7% to 9% per year with visitors spending close to three-hundred million f the World Cup of Soccer is thedollars most popular per month. However, there have been sports event in the world, well, let’s say certain that theevents that have shaken and stirred the industry such as the February Copa America is the most anticipated soccer 27th earthquake and the decrease in cruise competition in South-America. Argentina all set to arrive this year, which went shipsis that will receive all 12 teams that will battle for the fromtitle. approximately forty-five per year to This year’s editionis no exception the to the rule. It twenty-eight to thirty that uncertain are scheduled should be a cracker with Mexico and Costa Rica join-to dock this season.

One favorable point is the media coverage ing the 10 South-American teams.

9

What area do you think needs more improvement in toursim (tour companies, restaurants, hotels, shops, musums, etc.)?

“All of them. But, specifically, I think commissions should be regulated because sometimes it gets out of hand. I am not against commissions for those who take people to restaurants, hotels, shops, etc., this is how it’s done pretty much all around the world, but I think 10% is more than enough. This can only be regulated through an extensive market study and some serious effort from the government.” - Jose Luis Rojas, General Manager of Serviline Pacific Viña del Mar, Radio Taxi Service.

All eyes on Chile With Chile’s performance at the last World Cup in South Africa, fans and experts alike are looking forward to seeing La Roja in action. They are looking to find out if La Roja’s great exhibition of soccer last June was a fluke or an indication of what is coming in As the years go by, the people who work Argentina. in tourism expect to receive a wider Chile obtained The presence of new Coach, Argentinean Claudio for the rescue of the thirty- What must a company do in order to scale of visitors, but it seems clear that three miners, the earthquake, the unstable currency, Borghi, has attracted the attention of the media.

Ev-which has put our country grow in such a seasonal line of work? on the map as a nation that has overcome the decrease in cruises and the rescue eryone is eager to see if EL Bitchi will be able to come several tragedies and is ready for whatever “First of all, giving quality service in every of the thirty-three miners have changed out from Bielsa’s shadow and make a name for himself vicissitudes may occur in the future. aspect, which includes working honestly the impression foreingers have of Chile. to the quarter-final round along with the two best ouroptions if they want to stay clear from the defending with the national team.

Having a ministry of tourism seems to be and respectfully towards passengers. orderfavorto get third-place a better perspective of In the end, the concept of seasonal work teams overall. champions untilan theessential final. issue, and little by little we will El Niño Maravilla, Alexis Sanchez, In another what happening in “rollercoaster” likelyfor seeChile changes willsecond allow for Chile to isn’tCsomething affects allThe of Chile; Lathis Roja belong to Group joined by that Mexico, best scenario is tothat clinch spot ite of the headline, is under the spotlight withisrumors industry, I interviewed a few people who advance on an international level, which can there are many places here that are visited flying about his transfer to Barcelona for 45 millions Perú and Uruguay. If Chile wants to have a successful in their Group. They would then face the 2nd position depend on this seasonal income for the all year round, so the answer is to mention only be of help to those who rely on tourism campaign at this year’s Cup,these the key is to within avoid their winner inand Argentina’s group, which would be decided euros, That would make him the most expensive success of their business. for their livelihood. places your programs nemesis, Brazil, in the quarter and semi-final games. between Colombia, Japan or Bolivia. If that happens, Chilean player sold in the history of Chile.

Chile has yet to lay hands on the trophy after play- Hopefully they won’t meet until the final where any- they would meet the host team in the semis.

If Chile wins their group, they would face the secing in the competition 35 times. La Roja have finished thing could happen. Otherwise it could mean an early exit for Borghi’s pupils. ond place team in Brazil’s Group, which is expected to second on 4 occasions: 1987, 1979, 1956 and 1955.

In the last 5 years, Chile played Brazil on 6 occa- be Paraguay. They would take on Brazil in the semis. sions, losing all of them, allowing an average of 4 goals If Chile finishes 3rd in their group and qualifies Can Chile win this one?

The competition consists in 3 groups of 4 teams, per game and scoring only 3 times. There is nothing under the best third position rule, they would play eieach team playing once against each other in the to build confidence on. Considering that The Scratch ther Argentina or Brazil in the quarter-final, not the Systems matchupand forSteam the Chileans. of ideal Heating group phase. The top 2 teams in each group move on will finish first in their group, La Roja has a couple Industrial Speculations Residential Heating apart, planet soccer knows the potential of thePellet Chilean Soccer Team. The quesHigh efficiency andNational Solid Wood Stoves marks reside in the change of coaching staff over Solar tion Systems the lastAvenue 4 months and the Vicuña Mackenna #801, Los Angeles, Chileeffect that will have on the players.

Phone: (56-43) 318246 • Cell Phone Sales: (59-9) 99996547 in Temuco City:Can Av. Pedro de ValdiviaBorghi 0135, Phonetop (56-45) 646009 results with the Claudio Bielsa’s Showroom Palazzetti: Av. Las Condes 8283, Santiago, Phone (56-2) 2204189 Only time same players but with a different strategy? will tell.

LCFA: Los Felinos want to make history in Brazil

By Pascal Mathieu Los Felinos de la Florida are travelling to Brazil on June 28th in their first history-making American Football Match of the American Chilean Football League (LFCA) against the Brazilian Champion of the LBFA, Arsenal of Cuiabá at Estadio Eurico Gaspar Dutra. The team is sponsored by the State of Mato Grosso and will travel by bus and provided with food and shelter once they get to the city of Cuiabá.

The Team will arrive on the 30th of June. On the 1st of July, Los Felines will head to the field for a training session followed by an American Football clinic run by Matthew Rahn and Clayton Lovett.

Matthew Rahn coaches at Harper College and plays for the Northern Kentucky River Monsters, a professional indoor football team which began play as a charter member of the Ultimate Indoor Football League during its inaugural 2011 season. Rahn was playing for the Arsenal last year and will fly to Brazil for the event.

Clayton Lovett, an English teacher, lives in Cuiabá.

THEPULSE Nº8-nigroPAME.indd 9

He was part of the team last year when they won the title and is currently the trainer of Arsenal.

On July 2nd, Arsenal and Felinos will get down to business. This will be without a doubt the toughest test for the Chileans in the young history of the Club.

“Developing the sport and creating bonds between both countries are the main priorities here though once the whistle blows we are surely going to have our game-face on!!!” commented Head Coach of the Felinos, Gonzalo Cataldo.

English AA in Chile

contact@englishaainchile.cl

www.englishaainChile.cl

Discover bands, restaurants and the best empanadas in Chile on www.ilovechile.cl

30

GOURMET / JULY 2011

By Jayne Scarman

A

ccording to my (Chilean) manager, hailing from the UK means I have a better knowledge than most of Indian food. I did try to explain that the tradition in the UK is to go for a curry late on a Friday night after several pints of beer - not exactly making for the most delicate of palates - but this didn’t seem to dampen her enthusiasm. Still, I wasn’t about to turn down an opportunity to taste a cuisine that I hadn’t eaten since I left the Balti Triangle of Birminghamp* ten months ago.

Arriving at the Rishtedar (Holanda 160, Providencia), I entered a small, homely-looking restaurant decorated as you would expect from an Indian restaurant; murals of elephants and kohl-painted eyes adorned the walls, a heavily bejewelled screen and carved dark wood bar framed the room and the tables were covered with traditionally patterned cloths. Overall, the place gave a feeling of warmth and intimacy, the delicate reds and golds of the decor contributing to this.

My companion and I shared lunch with the Rishtedar’s owner, Vikram Thadani. A first generation descendent of Indian parents in Chile, Vikram started the restaurant at age 21 and has developed it over the last four years from a cafewith home-cooking to a broad range of faithfully Indian dishes. He introduced us to Ram, one of two chefs originally from Goa, who selected a range of dishes for us to try.

While we were waiting, Vikram explained to us some of the difficulties his restaurant has faced in bringing Indian cuisine to Chile, highlighting four main problems.

Firstly, that Chilean food does not contain any spices, making the introduction of masala, cumin, chilli and others somewhat of a shock to the palate. Secondly, the combination of dishes; Indian food does not arrive on one plate but rather features a range of smaller dishes to be eaten together. For instance, rice or naan bread is essential to accompany the main curry dish. Vikram reported that this has been met with suspicion at times, with some customers viewing it as a ruse to charge more money. Thirdly, there’s the unfamiliarity of the menu, with a number of dishes seeming to contain the same ingredients. As Vikram explained, while two dishes may contain chicken, onion and masala, different cooking processes and amounts of spices will create two very different plates. Finally, there’s the age-old “Delhi-belly” issue. Bodies unaccustomed to such spices may find themselves sweating with the heat or with some discomfort in the stomach. People are quick to assume this means bad food, said Vikram, but in reality it’s just that they are not used to it.

To counteract this, the waiting staff at Rishtedar guide customers through the menu, gauging their experience with Indian food and suggesting dishes accord-

And that’s where Rishtedar’s strength lies. While it has no pretensions to be gourmet, what it delivers is good honest food that is interesting and tastes superb.

Cinema listings in English every Thursday on www.ilovechile.cl

ingly. For example, we were offered three levels of “heat”: Chilean - mild; English - medium; and Indian - very hot. As such, the chefs tailor their dishes to the customer to ensure that no one gets caught out by a flaming bhaji.

Having plumped for the English heat level (obviously) we ready to eat. First arrived a plate of samosas - potatoes and spices wrapped in light pastry and served with mint sauce. This was served alongside a traditional Goan dish of squid fried with peppers, onions and chilli, topped with a squeeze of lime.

This had a hot aftershock but was delicious. Seafood was introduced to Indian cuisine in Goa, a former Portuguese colony that fused the diet of fish from the colonists with the curry of the native people. For me, quite simply an awesome combination.

Next came a selection of mains: an exquisite aubergine (eggplant) dish with tanginess introduced by green mango pulp; an astonishingly light dahl made from five types of beans, cream and masala; chicken in tomato, ginger, onion and coriander - made hot for me; and a sweet, creamy bowl of chicken in a sauce of chestnuts and almonds - ideally suited to Chilean customers. Accompanying this we had some fragrant basmati rice and two naans (bread), one with garlic and the other with sesame and coriander.

We rounded the meal off with a yogurt-based drink, designed to aid digestion. Interestingly, as our host explained, behind Indian food lies a Vedic tradition (an ancient form of medicine), where each of the dishes complements the others to provide a balanced meal with all the nutrients required by the human body. This, he explained, was the reason we felt so relaxed and happy after our feast. It was either that or we were content to have eaten a highly comforting meal of warm, reassuring food on a freezing cold winter’s day.

And that’s where Rishtedar’s strength lies.

While it has no pretensions to be gourmet, what it delivers is good honest food that is interesting and tastes superb. Rishtedar is the perfect place for a first introduction to Indian cooking or for a catch-up with a familiar cuisine from home. www. rishtedar.com *The Balti is a signature British-style curry dish thought to have been developed in Birmingham, the UK’s second city, which has one of the largest southAsian communities outside of the sub-continent itself.

Birmingham’s Balti Triangle is a small cluster of streets to the south-east of the city center that houses a high concentration of Balti restaurants, including some of the oldest and best in the city.

31

JUNE 2011 / GOURMET

Winter Comfort Food

By Alicia Granse

W

ell, it’s that time again. Winter in Santiago. Grey skies, dirty air, crowded streets. This is my third winter season, and I really can’t say that I’ve gotten used to being winter and never Christmas. I really hope someone caught that reference to The Lion, the The Witch and The Wardrobe. Anyway, what I’m trying to say is that it’s weird to live in a place that doesn’t have some sort of interruption in winter. I mean, let’s face it we’re stuck here in misery until September brings us clear skies and heaps of empanadas. With no hope of Santa Claus or Mary Poppins or whatever other fairy tale comes to visit you bearing gifts. The people who made our calendar were definitely NOT from the Southern Hemisphere.

What will get us through such a season of discontent?

Fortunately, and despite all the grief I give Chilean cuisine, it does do one thing well: comfort food. In fact, I would venture to say that ALL Chilean food should be labeled as such. The greasy goodness of a chorrillana, onions and eggs and meat, oh my! The solid heft of a pino empanada drenching your hands in juice. The first, tantalizingly hot spoonful of caldillo congrio.

Even the most basic lunch menu around-the chunk of chicken and the accompanying mound of mashed potatoes-manages to make even the darkest of days seem brighter. How are Chileans not fatter? I know I am after a good pastel de choclo. I mean, as I write this, I’m devouring more calories than the average

Michael Phelps consumes in a week. So, as we proceed through this trying time, what will make us feel better? What should we eat? The answer: anything you can get your hands on.

Now, I’m from Minnesota, and if you’ve ever seen the movie Fargo or even watched the news, you know that it’s a pretty cold place to be during the winter. You could even say we’re experts on comfort food. We’ve got the hot dishes and the cakes and pies and all manner of things that are bad for our hearts and diets. So trust me when I tell you that I’ve got some tricks up my sleeve to keep you warm and full for the long days ahead. And no, I’m not going to give you grandma’s recipe for tuna hot dish because that’s a family secret. So back off. I will however, donate some of my insights into the world of fatty goodness.

My number one homemade dish is quite simple really.

Sweet potatoes and melty cheese. There are any number of variations to this dish. My original recipe begins with one sweet potato, baked in the oven at around 300 degrees for about an hour. This serves a double purpose here in Chile, a land notorious for its lack of central heating. When you turn on the oven you heat up not only your food but also your house. Who knew?

In any case, you pop that sucker out of the oven and put it on your plate. You top it with bleu cheese and walnuts and smash it around until it’s good and mixed and you shove it in your face because it feels so good when it hits your lips.

You may ask, ‘Alicia, that sounds delicious, but where do I get a sweet potato?’ And my response would be, ‘dude, the grocery store.’ Fortunately, they do have what are called camotes available in your run of the mill Lider or Unimarc. They look a

bit funny and rotund, but they work in a pinch. If you’re looking for something closer to what we have at home you’re going to have to go a bit further afield. La Vega now has more Peruvian stalls that are chock a –a-block full of Peruvian camotes, which have that beautiful orange color that we’re used to, and pair very well with a little brown sugar or maple syrup. And a nice full Cabernet, if you’re so inclined (which I inevitably am). Now, if you’re not into the whole weird moldy looking cheese, this works just as well with a brick of Mantecoso from Los Criadores. This diary dairy makes consistently flavorful cheese, and it’s what I always buy when I’m at the store if I’m not feeling adventurous. It’s not a Havarti, which is what I would use at home, but you can’t get that stuff here. I’ve asked. Many times. I suppose you could even use a cream cheese, if you were feeling particularly lethargic.

Speaking of lethargy, there are of course those times that you get home and all you want to do is go out and grab something hot to warm you up. For times like these I recommend the phenomenon that is the cazuela. What I love about this dish is that you can see all of its parts. A typical bowl of this soup comes with a piece of tender meat, a third of an ear of corn, several large chunks of potato, maybe a slice or two of camote, and some carrots. Its origins are a sort of ‘come what may’ of the leftovers from last night. And, being from the land of casseroles, this is something I can definitely appreciate. My two favorite places to get my hands on this flavor craze are Galindo in Bellavista and Don Peyo in Ñuñoa. I prefer Galindo, mostly because it’s closest to my house. And on cold days no one wants to go too far from home. Both places have that typical Chilean feel-waiters in fancy dress among shoddy tables and ugly checked tablecloths. And both serve up equally hearty helpings of either chicken or vacuno versions of the dish. I’ve looked at both websites, and Galindo’s is certainly more impressive, which may be because its locale is more cateredcaters more to foreign guests. You can find this brightly painted place on Dardignac and Constitución in Bellavista. If your heart yearns for something a bit off the beaten track, though, you can hit up Don Peyo on Lo Encalda 465. Either way you won’t be disappointed.

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AV. PACIENTE INERNACIONAL TRAZADO.pdf

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