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Edition 14: August 2011 Price $1.000
The Rise of the 33
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AUGUST 2011 / TABLE OF CONTENTS
STAFF Publisher & CEO Daniel Brewington Editor Julie Gibson Assistant Editor Sharon Ewing Chief Strategy Officer Pamela Lagos Marketing & Sales Steve Halsey Shonika Proctor Andrés Uteau Astrid Diez Online Editor Kayla Young News Desk Bárbara Hermosilla Contributors Brendan Corrigan Jennifer Massoni Al Ramirez Carolina Leseigneur Shonika Proctor Quinn Larwood Stuart Burckhardt Richard Magennis Harper Bridgers Pablo Retamal Pascal Mathieu Ian Gilbert Marcelle Dubruel Alicia Granse Ben Angel Pepe Rawlinson Alexis Psarras Steve Halsey Colin Bennett Jonathan Franklin Photographers Gardner Hamilton Daniel Brewington Bárbara Hermosilla Lorenzo Moscia Jonathan Franklin Design Alfonso Gálvez Translations Mary Tapia Interns Lisa Kimura The I Love Chile Office is located on Loreto 6, Bellavista, Santiago, Chile Our office hours are from 10:00 am to 5:00pm Monday to Friday Contact Phone: +56 (02) 732 26 39 Out of hours contact+ 56 (09) 7 549 1513 To contact our newsdesk email: prensa@ilovechile.cl or press@ ilovechile.cl To contact administration email: info@ilovechile.cl
Letter From the Editor Three Feet From Gold, by Napoleon Hill, is one of my favorite books because it has such a great moral: Before success comes in life, you are sure to meet with temporary defeat and most likely many failures. The true “you” will show when you are facing such defeat. Do you give up easily or do you hunker down and go one step further? In Three Feet From Gold, we see the result of giving up when one man quit just three feet from the richest gold mine in Colorado. “An uncle of R. U. Darby was caught by the gold fever in the gold-rush days, and went west to dig and grow rich. He had never heard that more gold has been mined from the brains of men than has ever been taken from the earth. He staked a claim and went to work with pick and shovel. The going was hard, but his “dig and grow rich” desire and his lust for gold was definite. After weeks of labor, he was rewarded by the discovery of the shining ore. He needed machinery to bring the ore to the surface. Quietly, he covered up the mine retraced his footsteps to his home in Williamsburg, Maryland, told his relatives and a few neighbors of the “strike.” They got together money for the needed machinery and had it shipped. The uncle and Darby went back to work the mine. The first car of ore was mined, and shipped to a smelter. The returns proved they had one of the richest mines in Colorado! A few more cars of that ore would clear the debts. Then would come the big killing in profits. Down went the drills! Up went the hopes of Darby and Uncle! Then something happened! The vein of gold ore disappeared! They drilled on, desperately trying to pick up the vein again— all to no avail. Finally, they decided to QUIT. They sold the machinery to a junk man for a few hundred dollars, and took the train back home. Some “junk” men are dumb, but not this one! He called in a mining engineer to look at the mine and do a little calculating. The engi-
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“Failure is a trickster with a keen sense of irony and cunning. It takes great delight in tripping one when success is almost within reach.” Napoleon Hill neer advised that the project had failed, because the owners were not familiar with “fault lines.” His calculations showed that the vein would be found just three feet from where the Darbys had stopped drilling! That is exactly where it was found! The “Junk” man took millions of dollars in ore from the mine, because he knew enough to seek expert counsel before giving up.” Life seems to have a funny sense of humor and throws us our biggest tests right before success. So, it’s not so much what happens to us that makes or breaks us, rather it’s what we do with what happens to us that determines where we will go in life. I hope you all enjoy this special mining edition of I Love Chile News and never ever give up, for in every failure is a seed of greater success! Sincerely, Julie Gibson Editor
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DJ Spotlight Letter from the Editor Current News Mining for Money Green Mining; Into the Soul of an Industry Shedding Light: The impact of Mining on Astronomy in Chile Hi ho, Hi ho, its off to the mines we go! Big Boy Toys Chilenos Innovate from the Sea to the Moon Little Thinkers The Rise of the 33 Chilean Mining: A history of water, war and copper Every Chilean is a Miner Trace Mineral - Copper LCFA: Los Felinos de la Florida made history in Brazil Colchagua Valley Wine Route Punta de Lobos: Paradise for Sufers…and Daydreamers Casablanca Cool Climate Valley The Legend of Bloody Mary I LOVE CHILE RECOMMENDS
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04
NEWS / AUGUST 2011
News round-up
Photo: Presidencia
By Brendan Corrigan
Southern Chile hit with severe snow storms
are still coming to Residents of southern Chile ere snow storms terms with one of the most sev to hit the region in years. fell in just four Close to three meters of snow cted areas. days in some of the worst affe lared disaster dec e wer s Eight municipalitie ín, Curarrehue, aut rac Cu , zones, namely Cunco Villarrica and Lonquimay, Melipeuco, Pucón, Vilcún. isolated as Thousands of people were left ed and alyz par e wer tes transportation rou er pow ned dow to electricity cut off due supply-lines. losing livestock. Farmers were acutely affected, aged. Extra Many outbuildings were dam made available n bee e hav Government funds tries to get to those worst hit as the region zards. bliz the ing ow back to normal foll
New Presidential Cabinet.
Piñera shuffles pack once again For the second time in just six months President Sebastián Piñera announced a cabinet reshuffle in mid-July. The move was made to quell growing dissatisfaction with the Government; a recent opinion poll put the President’s disapproval rating at a high of 63%. It was not the smoothest of reshuffles for the embattled Premier, with his appointment of Fernando Echeverría to the newly created Energy portfolio lasting just four days. The former Mayor of Santiago resigned from the post over a potential conflict of interests. His swift departure paved the way for Rodrigo Álvarez--from the government’s Finance and Defense Commissions--to step into the breach. The other changes proved somewhat less cumbersome. The Education portfolio--one of the more contentious posts in light of the ongoing student protests for reform in this area--switched hands, with Felipe Bulnes, the former Justice Minister, replacing Joaquín Lavín. For his part, Mr. Lavín is now heading up the Ministry of Cooperation and Planning (Mideplan). Elsewhere, Laurance Golborne has taken on responsibility for the Ministry of Public Works (MOP). He had held the amalgamated office of Mining and Energy, but that has now been split. Hernán De Solminihac is now in charge of Mining and the aforementioned Rodrigo Álvarez is taking on Energy. The vacancy at the Justice Department went to Teodoro Ribera, while the new Economy Minister is Pablo Longueira. Andrés Chadwick is now the new government spokesperson. Photo: LORENZO MOSCIA
Miners to sue Government 31 of the 33 Chilean miners trapped underground for 69 days last year will be suing the government for negligence. The group claims that it was unsafe and that proper inspections were not carried out in the lead-up to the cave-in at the San Jose gold and copper mine in the north of the country on August 5th 2010. It was not until October 13th that the last of the 33 men was freed from the mine - an event that grabbed global attention. Only 31 of the group have joined the lawsuit – filed on Friday July 15th – where they are requesting US$540,000 in compensation for each of the miners. One of the miners involved in the legal action, Luis Urzua, said the mine had accidents in the past and that at one stage it had been forced to close. “Everyone knows that in 2005 and 2007, there were two deaths in this mine and that since then it had always been a dangerous mine,” he said. Discover bands, restaurants and the best empanadas in Chile on www.ilovechile.cl
05
AUGUST 2011 / NEWS
Upturn in Chile-Bolivia relations Photo: Presidencia
Diplomatic relations between Chile and Bolivia took a turn for the better at the end of July. The countries’ presidents held a brief face-to-face meeting for the first time since December 2010. The talks took place prior to the inauguration of Peru’s new premier, Ollanta Humala, in Lima. While relations between the two nations have never been great, they worsened considerably in March of this year when then Bolivan President Evo Morales threatened to take Chile to the International Court of Justice over his country’s claim to a section of the Pacific coast. That territorial claim goes all the way back to the War of the Pacific, which was won by Chile in 1883, resulting in Bolivia losing its route to the ocean. Since Morales’ announcement in March, it’s believed bilateral discussions between the two leaders ceased altogether. Tensions only heightened further in mid-June when 14 Bolivian soldiers were arrested for a number of days by Chilean authorities following an illegal border crossing. In such a context, the Lima meeting between President Sebastián Piñera and President Morales has been seen as a welcome development in an attempt to normalize the relationship between the neighboring countries. While neither side spoke officially to the press after the talks, the Bolivian leader did say that the resumption of relations was ”good” and that the two leaders expressed an interest to continue dialogue.
Major extension of Santiago’s metro on the way Almost 40km of new track is be added to the capital’s metro lines over the coming years. Lines 3 and 6 are to be extended, creating 28 new stations and bringing the city rail service to five new boroughs – namely Cerrillos, Conchalí, Huechuraba, Independencia and Pedro Aguirre Cerda. Line 3 will gain 18 new stations, beginning in Américo Vespucio Norte with Independencia and passing through the center of Santiago by way of Avenida Matta, Irarrázaval and Tobalaba, will arrive at the Plaza Egaña. The remainder of the new stations will be added
to line 6. They will connect the western sector of Santiago with Cerrillos and Providencia, passing through stops such as Franklin, Ñuble, Estadio Nacional and Pedro de Valdivia. All the new routes are due to be equipped with improved technology, including the addition of automatically driven trains with security cameras on board and safety doors on platforms. In addition, WiFi enabled zones will be made available in all but seven of the new stations. The cost of the extension is estimated at US$2.75
million, with just under half of that expected to be funded directly by the Chilean Government – financing for the remainder of the budget will come from various sources. A start-date for the commencement of construction has yet to be finalized, but it is hoped that the improved Line 6 will be up and running by mid-2016. Line 3 completion is expected a year later. An additional 129 million trips a year are expected to be added to the metro’s load as a result of this expansion, bringing the system’s overall total to more than 700 million.
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ECONOMICS / August 2011
Mining for Money
The Economics of the Mining Sector Photo: Courtesy Banco Central de Chile
By Alexis Psarras
W
hile mining has always been big news in Chile, except for a group of foreign investors, the rest of the world hasn’t paid particular attention to the goings on under Chilean ground. As we know, that all changed with the rescue of Los 33 from the San José mine last October. Having recently returned from Europe, this author can attest to the power of Los 33 in putting Chile on the map; people of all persuasions in both the UK and in Greece were fascinated to know what it was like to be in Chile during the famous miner rescue. For a while, mining in Chile was the global story. Back in Chile, miners are largely revered folk, contributing much-- including occasionally their lives-- to the pursuit of economic growth. Yet, while Chile’s economy has been dominated by mining for decades, if not centuries, mining is by no means the only significant industry. The Chilean economy is a relatively diversified one, with forestry, fishing, wines, fresh fruit and other agricultural products sitting alongside service industries like tourism and banking as key generators of the economic machine. Nevertheless, today the mining industry is the principal single-sector contributor to economic growth. BREAKDOWN OF CHILEAN GDP (APPROX.) 2000 - PRESENT
sector’s contribution to national GDP totalled some US$26.9 billion, which accounts for a 15.6% stake. The true figure rises and falls depending on internal factors like overall output, and external factors such as exchange rates and demand. Furthermore, approximately half of all exports are from the mining industry, although this figure has largely been determined by the fluctuating global copper price. Exports by Economic Sector (Nominal)
Chile has been a leading mining nation since the mid-nineteenth century, with the copper industry providing the base for economic growth and development for more than 150 years. Mining really took off post 1990 with an influx of new foreign investments and technologies. Accurate statistics vary but according to the Central Bank of Chile from the year 2000 onwards mining has contributed to approximately 10% of Chilean GDP. The true figure varies depending on whether certain impacts are measured and what indicators are used. For example, Central Bank statistics show that in 2009 the mining
Source: Central bank Central bank of what country or institution? And is it Central Bank of Chile (capitalized for a title)?
It’s not just copper As has been reported in ILC in the past, the real engine of growth for the Chilean economy since the 1960s has been the red metal – copper. This is even
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The Chilean economy is a relatively diversified one, with forestry, fishing, wines, fresh fruit and other agricultural products sitting alongside service industries like tourism and banking as key generators of the economic machine. Nevertheless, today the mining industry is the principal single-sector contributor to economic growth. more the case now that China has become Chile’s largest single-nation trading partner. Crudely speaking, copper mining accounts for about 8% of total GDP. Given that Chile holds one third of the global copper reserves and that China is the world’s largest consumer of copper, the price of copper is set to continue on its upward trend. It has risen about 50% in the last year alone, due primarily to demand from emerging Asian markets, and what’s more, global copper consumption continues to outstrip supply. However, Chilean mining is not just about copper. Coal, iron, precious metals, and industrial minerals are also extracted from the Chilean ground and while the country is traditionally dependent on copper exports, a decade ago it ranked first in the production of iodine and lithium, third in the production of molybdenum, and was a leading producer and exporter of potassium nitrate, sodium nitrate, gold, silver, rhenium, and selenium. Industrial output in general was inevitably affected by the 2009 recession but bounced back by 3.2% in 2010. Mining, on the other hand, fared a little better, with recent Central Bank data showing that production of metal mining rose 5.2% in 2010. Non-metal extraction rose 11.3% in the same period. (Common examples of non-metals mined in Chile are nitrates, lithium, iodine and salt). Yet despite encouraging figures of non-metal min-
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August 2011 / ECONOMICS Photo: Courtesy Banco Central de Chile
ing and non-copper extraction, the hard facts point in only one direction – copper. Copper really is the driving force of the mining industry, accounting for roughly 80% of all mining output in terms of price. Figures from 2005 put the mining of molybdenum in second place, down to 14% of total value, followed by gold at 2%. The biggest players The biggest player of all in Chilean mining is the nationalized Copper Corporation, Codelco. The world’s largest copper-producing company, accounting for around 10% of refined copper output, Codelco also claims to have nearly one fifth of the world’s copper reserves. Apart from the state-owned Codelco and a few private Chilean mining companies including Antofagasta Minerals, there are more than 20 foreign and international mining and exploration companies in Chile, many of whom own or partly-own the mines in which they operate. This list includes one of the world’s largest, the British company, Anglo-American, as well as Mexico’s Grúpo Mexico, and Canada’s Noranda. Other nonChilean mining houses include Australia’s BHP Billiton, the international group Rio Tinto, Mitsui Bussan from Japan, and Sweden’s Boliden. Further mining companies hailing from Peru, Russia and Spain also operate in Chile. Almost all the world’s leading mineral extraction companies are working in Chile. The most profitable mines are located in the north of
Photo: Germán Gáez
viewed sceptically by some who regard them as arbitrary and politicized. The question of where, exactly, the money goes is more complicated. In terms of non-Chilean groups within the mining industry, foreign companies investing in the market are awarded various tax breaks and economic incentives, much like in any country, and money made in such a way inevitably returns to its source, beyond Chile. Given that mining is the number one area foreign investment, it is noteworthy that over half the US$15 billion invested in Chile last year corresponded to the reinvestment of profits, which shows a significant proportion of foreign investors found reason to continue to invest in Chile, rather than to repatriate their earnings. However, international mining expertise has undoubtedly contributed to the growth of Codelco and its production techniques, whose revenue, in turn, has found its way back into the Chilean economy. Chilean labor is also by and large guaranteed as employment law stipulates 85% of the workforce of any foreign company with more than 25 employees must be Chilean. It is stating the obvious to say that copper is critical to the generation of government revenue, but whatever your political persuasion, the mixture of public/private ownership of the mineral sector and an investorfriendly environment has allowed the Chilean government to maximise the benefits of mineral exploitation the country, largely in Atacama’s desert region. Codel- for many years. co’s (and the country’s) largest producing mines are On a wider social scale, economic growth has been situated in the company’s northern complex. These are driven by the mining sector, and as a result Chile ranks 3 separate mines found just outside Calama. Chuqui- high in terms of most regional health and development camata mine is the biggest, and the largest open-pit indicators, such as literacy, low infant mortality, and so copper mine in the world. Output from this northern on. The current Piñera administration is using revenue complex, which is set to become just one mine in the from the mining sector not only in reconstruction and next few years as excavations continue, is more than poverty alleviation, but also as a means to balance the double that of Codelco’s next largest producer, El Teni- fiscal deficit and bring it below the rate of growth – ente mine near Rancagua, which is the world’s largest part of the administration’s aim of shrinking its deficit underground mine. to 1 percent of GDP by 2014. The highest producing copper mine for the last few However, despite various World Bank and UN years, in Chile, and indeed the world, has been the Es- indicators ruling in Chile’s favor, and the government condida mine in the Atacama, near Antofagasta. Joint- seeking to balance its books, income inequality remains ly owned by BHP Billiton, Rio Tinto and a few others, high in Chile. Challenges undoubtedly remain. it is called the most important mine in Chile - 2007 sales alone totalling some US$10 billion. Future of mining With emerging markets demanding greater Where does the mining money go? amounts of copper and other minerals from Chile, and The impact of mining is often a controversial topic given that the industry ranks as the largest recipient for a plethora of reasons, from arguments over the eco- sector of foreign investment, the future of mining in nomic benefits and the environmental consequences, the succeeding years looks secure. As we saw with Los to differences over whether more or less of the mining 33, while the economy remains diversified, the minindustry should be nationalised or privatized. One tru- ing sector still gets most of the headlines. The industry ism is that mining exports have driven GDP growth, faces many challenges such as the development of reand international indicators lead to the conclusion that newable energy initiatives and new technologies to ensociety has benefitted as a result. In 1998, the World hance production techniques, but while the near future Bank claimed the poverty headcount ratio in Chile looks good, there are many experts who agree on the was 20.6%, and by 2009 this figure had fallen to 15.1%. need for the Chilean economy to continue to expand Further health and education indicators back these sta- its diversification so that it doesn’t rely quite so heavily tistics up, but the measuring of such data will always be on the mining sector. • ILC Get the latest news headlines everyday on www.ilovechile.cl
08
Social Responsibility / August 2011
Green Mining; Into the Soul of an Industry ›› Once synonymous with exploitation of indigenous peoples, environmental pollution, and corruption, the mining industry has in the last decade responded by recasting itself, through the efforts of a handful of leading companies, into one that strives to minimize its harmful impacts. Sustainable mining has now become a key policy for all international mining companies wishing to compete in the extraction business. By Pablo Retamal
Photo: Luca Galuzzi - www.galuzzi.it
R
eeling from the all-too-frequent black eyes that mining companies have received in the press over the decades, natural resource extractors are doing their utmost to convince the public that “sustainable mining” is possible. Unfortunately, they’re battling a long and dirty history, one fraught with environmental devastation and social indifference. The catalogue of environmental disasters and human tragedies caused by the mining industry is too long to list, but includes gold mining’s release into the environment of thousands of tons of toxic mercury and cyanide, the razing of entire mountains in the name of coal, and a legacy of highly acidic lakes and poisoned river systems as a result of copper extraction. Health issues such a black lung and Weil’s disease have become legendary. It’s a strange concept to get your head around. What could a mining company (and I’ll use the example of a purposely-left-unnamed-gold mining company) possibly teach anyone about sustainability? These days, if you want some gold, you don’t settle in a quaint mountain town in the “wild west”, surround yourself by scrappy boot-strappers and whistle along to “Colorado My Home Sweet Home” in hopes of discovering a nice little vein you can claim by the Mining, after all, is an industry whose core business depends on the depletion of help of a loaded Smith & Wesson. raw natural resources. This is also an industry that consumes vast amounts of To get some gold today, you got to find it and figure out how to do operations in the furthest flung energy and produces massive quantities of waste. corners of the earth. In the Andes on the Chilean-Argentinean border. In the Kyrgyz Republic just north of the China border. Or maybe north of Cajamarca STEP 3: You chunk, grind and mash raw earth into a mosphere—actually makes it inert. Get the in Peru. fine mud using machinery of the kind that PR guys to make sure everyone thinks it STEP 1: You blast and scrape gaping pits out of the could fill an entire chapter in a Robert Kenwill be okay for generations that come after ground. It leaves a bit of a mark, If your pit nedy Jr. book. the mine closes. is the largest, its square footage will be four STEP 4: Then you dump a bunch of cyanide over the If your mine is really kickin’, you’ll get seven times the size of Manhattan. mud to get the gold out. But the used cya- ounces of gold for around every 30 tons of earth you STEP 2: After clear-cutting and scarring roads nide has to go somewhere, right? Preferably process. More than likely you’ll get one or two ounces. through the terrain to get there, you use not in the clean water lake behind the dam Maybe... if you’re lucky. those truly uncanny haul trucks you see in you’ve created for your grinding and mashMining, after all, is an industry whose core busienvironmental scare documentaries to move ing and mud-making operations (see STEP ness depends on the depletion of raw natural reraw earth. The shoulder of a six-foot man 3). sources. This is also an industry that consumes vast comes to its wheel hub. Your mine pit min- STEP 5: So you build another dam and try to con- amounts of energy and produces massive quantities AVISO 1 GRAFICATYPOS.pdf 1 26-05-11 12:21 iaturizes them like a model scene on the set vince everyone that pouring cyanide and of waste. Of all the earth and ore disturbed for metals of a James Cameron movie sulphur dioxide in there —open to the at- extraction, only a miniscule amount is actual ore. For example, in 1995 the gold industry moved and processed 72.5 million tons of rock to extract 7,235 tons of gold. The rest, 99%, was left as waste. The most difficult and contentious issue is likely to be where it is or is not acceptable to mine. For exc o m m e r c i a l p r i n t i n g since 1983 ample, in some instances, an operation with state-of the-art environmental design should simply not be built because it is planned for a location that is not appropriate for mining. Too often, mining companies want to discuss sustainability only in terms of how to mine, not whether to mine. For any sustainability policy to be complete it must address the issues of where and when it is or is not appropriate to mine. Although the mining industry has made a number of technical advances, technical solutions alone will info@graficatypos.com www.graficatypos.com T: (56-2) 8879014 not be enough to fully address the broader environ-
GRAPHICAL SOLUTIONS FOR START
UP
COMPANIES.
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09
August 2011 / Social Responsibility Photo: Luca Galuzzi - www.galuzzi.it
mental issues that the industry faces. Solutions will require grappling with issues of personal, social, and environmental values, ethics, comparative economics, and more. To date, too much of industry discussion and debate with regard to sustainability and responsible mining practices has focused on the technical issues of how to mine rather than the larger issues of whether, and where, to mine. Some in the industry are legitimately struggling with these issues of environmental protection and sustainability. However, the industry cannot have it both ways: advertising itself as “green” to improve its image, while fighting progressive legislative, regulatory, or site-specific environmental measures. It is important to note that progress towards sustainable practices will require industry self-initiative and government action. Governments are perfectly poAlthough the mining industry sitioned to create incentives has made a number of technical and disincentives for readvances, technical solutions sponsible action by compaalone will not be enough to nies. For example, only govfully address the broader ernments can pass “good actor” laws for mining on environmental issues that the public or state-controlled industry faces. territory. They can require full public disclosure, remove subsidies for extraction, and mandate full reclamation and full-cost bonding for clean up of mine sites. There is no doubt that those companies choosing to pursue a path that leads toward sustainable practice in the mining industry will have a struggle on their hands. They will have to win the support of both employees and stockholders. They will be quickly criticized for not going the extra mile and be subjected to intense pressure to demonstrate results. Yet in the end, those who do not choose the path of sustainability will be under the most intense pressure as their operations and performance fall behind industry leaders in ways that are clearly recognizable to stakeholders in industry, governments and regulators, investors, environmental organizations, and community leaders. In this context, we shouldn’t see green mining so much as a contradiction in terms, but more like what the future mining industry will need to look like if it is to remain modern and competitive in the XXI century. • ILC Discover bands, restaurants and the best empanadas in Chile on www.ilovechile.cl
MACROMARKETING
Moon Valley - San Pedro de Atacama.
10
Feature / August 2011
Photo: Hernán Stockebrand
Shedding Light:
The Impact of Mining on Astronomy in Chile Astronomy in northern Chile does however face a problem – pollution.
Tololo Astronomy Center - Coquimbo Region.
By Carolina Leseigneur
D
ue to 320 pristine night skies a year, northern Chile has become the primary center for several of the world’s most prominent astronomy research observatories in the southern hemisphere. Observatories are concentrated in the II, III and IV Regions of northern Chile, around the Atacama Desert and the Elqui Valley in particular. As the Atacama Desert is the driest desert in the world, with few inhabitants, low radio and light interference and high altitudes, the skies in this area are among the clearest on the planet. These are highly sought after attributes for ideal astronomical sites. Some of the most potent observatories in the world are situated in northern Chile. For example, the VLT (Very Large Telescope), the Giant Magellanic Telescope and the ALMA (Atacama Large Millimetre Array) astronomical project, where operations will commence later this year at the Chajnantor Scientific Reserve, 5000m above sea level. The installation of the E-ELT (European Extremely Large Telescope) in the near future will establish Chile as the main global platform for astronomical research. Aside from the obvious scientific importance of astronomy, it is also of economic importance due to astrotourism and the many practical spin-offs that come from modern astronomical technology. These include advances in medical x-ray technology, monitoring of the structural integrity of oil rigs and logistics to reduce light energy waste in cities. According to the Chile’s Image Foundation (Fundación Imagen de Chile), continual astronomical development in the country has been possible because of the National Commission for Scientific and Technological Research, CONICYT (Comisión Nacional de Investigación Cientifica y Tecnolólogia). The Chilean government has also provided economic incentives and improvements in communications to encourage this kind of investment. Construction of
international level astronomical facilities involve several millions of dollars. Chilean astronomers in turn are given 10% of the time available for making observations in the new facilities. Thus, Chile has both strong economic and scientific incentives to preserve the astronomical sky. Astronomy in northern Chile does however face a problem – pollution. Over the last several years with urban and mining developments and related construction activities in the northern regions, the air has gradually become a little hazy. Chile is a mineral-rich country, famous for its copper deposits in the north. Mining is a source of tremendous investment in Chile and one of the largest employment sectors. Most mines in the north are open-pit mines and
Air pollution diminishes the transmission of light from space through the atmosphere. air pollution is the main concern. Air pollution diminishes the transmission of light from space through the atmosphere. Open-pit mining produces significantly more air pollution than underground mining, and several mines in Chile were initiated as open-pit mines as they were more cost-effective. Dust emissions come from the removal of overburden and waste rock by explosions, as well as dust from waste rock, ore and sub-ore piles, dried tailings and roads used for hauling. Additionally, copper can remain in the air for an imposing period of time before naturally settling or falling because of precipitation. Another source of pollution is artificial light – from both mining operations and urban developments. A ten percent brightening with artificial light is equal
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to a ten percent decrease in aperture for telescopes. Critical mining operations that operate 24 hours a day are typically lit at night with flood lights that lose thirty percent of their brightness to the atmosphere. Artificial light combined with dust and other air particles cause skyglow, one of the main enemies of astronomical research. Lighting is controlled in Chile’s three northern “astronomical” regions by Supreme Decree 686/98, better known as the Norma Luminica. This regulation is supervised by the Superintendent’s Office of Electricity and Fuel (SEC) and local municipalities. Lighting pollution is addressed by methods such as using cut-off lighting fixtures, timers, motion sensors, opaquely painted buildings to limit reflection and other strategies. Many astronomical sites in Chile are being considered or are named as world heritage sites or sites of scientific interest. Such designations protect the astronomical sites and immediate surrounding areas by law from the incursions of mining interests. The National Office for the Protection of the Quality of the Skies of Northern Chile (OPCC) carries out public education programs in the northern regions and assists the government in the protection of this natural heritage. The pollution problem may however never be truly grave for astronomy in Chile. The predominant air circulation in the upper atmosphere blows in an easterly direction, drawing air pollutants away from most astronomical sites. Many observatories have been located at 2000m above sea level or higher, to raise the viewing field above the moist marine air layer and most of the lingering air pollution. Additionally, the geography of Chile aids astronomical sites. There are smaller mountain ranges between the coast and the Andes, effectively separating some cities and mining operations from observatories. This limits the interference from both light and radio transmitters. • ILC
11
August 2011 / Feature
Hi ho, Hi ho, It‘s off to
Photo: Courtesy Codelco
the mines we go! By Richard Magennis
C
Chuquicamata - Calama.
hile is undoubtedly blessed with a colossal quantity of mineral deposits and as a result, their excavation has subsequently driven our economy to become one of the most successful in Latin America. It is therefore no surprise to learn that during the course of the past two centuries and beyond, mines have constantly formed part of the natural landscape and even now contribute to our national story. Although mines may not necessarily be first on the list for a family day out, renewed interest in mining was boosted by the exhaustive coverage of the 33 trapped miners in 2010. Indeed, up and down the country there are mines both active and defunct that can be visited, each with their own charm, style and legendary tales. So where in the country are the best places to plunge into the depths of Mother Earth? The Chuquicamata Mine near San Pedro de Atacama in Calama is a must see if you happen to be in the area. The open-pit copper mine may lack the mysterious tunnels that characterize many others in the country; however, the sheer size of it is breathtaking. Being the largest of its kind in the world, the mine boasts a length of 4.5km, a width of 3.5km and a depth of almost 1km. Therefore, if you want to take pictures, make sure you bring your wide-angle lens to take the best snaps! The strategically placed vantage points give you an excellent view of the mine and the gigantic vehicles that manoeuvre the materials. For some of them, a single tire that lasts only one year can cost over US$ 30,000! The mine welcomes visitors all
year round, however, it is recommended that you book at least one week in advance due to the growing popularity of the tour. You can do this at visitas@codelco. cl. The tour itself lasts an hour, runs from Monday to Friday at 2 and 3pm and is free. Nonetheless, a small monetary contribution is expected; all the proceeds are donated to a local children’s charity. You will also need your passport or RUT, and will need to wear long trousers, long sleeves and closed shoes to take part in the tour – even if it is in the middle of the scorching hot desert! If you happen to be around and about Concepción, Photo: Courtesy Codelco
El Teniente - Machalí.
Photo: Amanda Saviñón
So where in the country are the best places to plunge into the depths of Mother Earth?
Chiflón del Diablo - Lota.
make sure you visit La Mina Chiflón del Diablo which can be found around 30km south in a town called Lota. The former coal mine, whose name literally translates as ‘The Devil’s Whistle’, was named for the whistling noise made by a breeze as it entered the tunnel. Indeed, the mine holds the self-proclaimed title of being the only mine in the world with a natural ventilation system. Unlike the open-pit mine in Calama, el Chiflón del Diablo is a closed mine whose tunnels expand out to 11 km under the Pacific Ocean floor! The mine was home to 3,000 miners until 1997 when after 160 years it was taken out of service. The tour costs $CHP 4.000 and is not for the faint-hearted. The 850 mt. circuit takes around two hours and takes you into the deeper tunnels under the ocean. Don’t worry, all visitors are fully kitted out before disappearing into the depths. The guided tours are run by many of ex-miners who feel a sense of pride and attachment towards the mine, enthusiastically telling stories of legends and past histories; this in turn makes for interesting listening. The mine is open 9 am-6 pm every day. Its opening hours are extended to 8 pm from November to March. Finally, travelling 60km east along the Ruta del Cobre as it has been so aptly named, away from Rancagua, you will arrive at Sewell. This old mining town is nestled in the Andes at a height of 2,200 mts and was once home to over 15,000 workers. Some of the 19th century architecture, which was imported from the United States, has been deemed so important that it led UNESCO to declare it a World Heritage Site in 2006. Although the town was effectively abandoned as a permanent residence for thousands of workers in the early 1980’s, the mine which operates at the site, La Mina el Teniente, is still active. In fact, with over 2,400 km of tunnels, it is thought to be the largest underground copper mine in the world and still produces 3% of the world’s copper. The majority of the tours are run by the company VTS (www.vts.cl) and take you up into the resort or into the mine depending on which one you choose. The tour Ruta del Cobre costs between $CHP 20.000 – 26.000 from Santiago and $CHP 18.000-23.000 from Rancagua. For this price, you gain access to the town, transport and a guided tour of the mine. However, due to safety reasons, all participants in the mine tour must be aged between 14 and 75. If the idea of trudging around a cold dark mine isn’t your cup of tea, but the town still sounds appealing, you can take a tour just to Sewell. With the same company, this costs $CHP 20,000 – 15,000 from Santiago and $CHP 12,000 – 17,000 from Rancagua. However, for the difference in price, I would recommend taking the tour into the mine. The tours run every day including on bank holidays. You will need your RUT or passport to take part on these tours. Although other mines and mining communities can be visited in Chile, usually unofficially, the three mentioned above offer by far the best tourist experience, presenting foreigners and Chileans alike with an alternative yet interesting day out. • ILC
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Feature / AUGUST 2011
By Quinn Larwood and Stuart Burckhardt
L
ittle yellow dump trucks, a ubiquitous image of childhood, can be found in playgrounds and sandboxes all over the world. For most people, these tiny trucks are associated with digging holes and building sandcastles, while the enormity of the full size versions is seemingly lost in translation from mine site to toy store. As a result, it can be quite difficult for those outside of the business to imagine the sheer size of the mining industry and all the toys that come with it. Mining is one of the most prominent and most productive industries in Chile, accounting for nearly 17% of total GDP in 2009, and it consistently makes up more than half of the country’s exports. In 2009 Chile exported $30 billion US dollars worth of minerals, which was as large as the total GDP of Uruguay for the same year. Copper makes up the bulk of material mined from this country, and Chile produces about 33% of the world’s copper every year. In 2009 alone, the country produced 5.4 million metric tons of the mineral. For comparison, the Statue of Liberty in New York is made from 27 metric tons of copper. This means that you could build 200,000 Statues of Liberty from the copper produced in Chile over a single year. That’s a lot of copper removed from the ground every year, and there is much more earth that must be moved just to get to all that copper. In fact to extract this amount of copper, you need to remove approximately 10 billion tons of dirt. That’s enough to cover the area of greater Santiago to a depth of 5 meters! So, how do they do it? With the life-sized versions of those little yellow trucks. Most surface mining operations, like those seen across Chile, are conducted as “truck and shovel” operations where huge hydraulic shovels scoop massive chunks of earth and deposit them in into the trays of a fleet of equally huge haul trucks. The haul trucks then
Big Boys Toys
The Mammoths of Chile’s Mining Industry
The Caterpillar 797 haul truck. Burns enough fuel in a year to drive your car to the moon and back 15 times!
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AUGUST 2011 / Feature
Chile Exports enough copper each year to build 27 Statues of Liberty.
take the material to the crusher where the chunks of earth are broken down further. One of the major companies that manufacture this mining equipment is Komatsu, a Japanese company who is well known for their hydraulic shovels or “excavators”. These excavators, such as Komatsu’s PC 8000, are 10 meters tall, 10 meters wide, and take up about as much physical space as a three-story office building. They sit atop a pair of 8-meter long tracks and can pivot 360 degrees to extend their bucket and take a bite out of the earth. The bites it takes are not small either; the bucket capacity on a machine like the PC 8000 is 38 cubic meters. Using the gallons measurement to paint a clearer picture of the size of these scoops, an average household bathtub holds 50 gallons when full. So, when the PC 8000 takes a bite out of the earth, each scoop holds enough dirt to fill about 200 standard bathtubs. Another major company that manufactures this mining equipment is Caterpillar, an American company who is well known across the world for their signature yellow dump trucks known as “haul trucks”. Haul trucks come in many sizes, but the most popular, and largest, is the CAT 797 B 360 ton truck. The 797 sits atop 6 giant tires (2 in the front, 4 in the back) that each have diameters of 4 meters and cost around USD 50,000 each. The tires, by themselves, are so large that if you drove a standard truck such as a Dodge Ram 1500 up next to the 797 it would be less than half as tall as the tires. All in all, with the tires, chassis, and tray, the 797 is nearly 8 meters tall, 14 meters long, and 9 meters wide. That’s, again, as tall as a 3 story office building and as long as 2.5 standard Dodge Ram trucks. The most prominent part of the 797 is the loading tray where the excavators deposit the scoops of earth. The 797 has a payload capacity of 360 tons, which is equivalent to 400 standard road-going pickup trucks. Can you imagine how long it would take to move 400 truckloads of dirt? In addition to carrying heavy payloads, the 797’s also have to carry around 263 tons of their own weight. This makes for a total weight of 623 tons when the tray is full. This is very impressive when you consider that the 797’s have a top speed of 68 Kmph! In order to move all that mass from shovel to crusher, the 797 uses a 24 cylinder dual diesel engine producing 3000 hp and burning a lot of fuel. For each hour of operation, the 797 goes through 160 litres of diesel fuel or 3,500 litres per day. In fact, for the same amount of fuel that the 797 burns in one year you could drive your car to the moon and back 15 times! Obviously, equipment this big and heavy is also expensive. A large excavator will cost about 10 million US dollars, while a large haul truck will cost a mining company up to 5 million US dollars. Further to this, mining companies will spend almost double
this amount on keeping the equipment running over their 10-year lives. Although maintenance costs can amount to as much as 40% of a mine’s operating expenses, it is always much more cost-effective to spend the money to properly maintain the equipment than it is to neglect the equipment and have to buy brandnew machines prematurely. As a result, large teams of mechanics are needed to keep the equipment running properly. Approximately 1 hour of a mechanic’s time is needed to keep the equipment running for one hour. Teams of mechanics work around the clock keeping the machine running to ensure the miners can keep doing what they do best: playing in the dirt. • ILC Article Submitted by Quinn Larwood and Stuart Burckhardt of iSolutions South America (www.isipl.com) iSolutions is a specialized mining asset management consultancy and software company with offices in Santiago, Chile.
How big are the real life versions of these little yellow trucks?
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THE ENTREPRENEUR HUNTER / AUGUST 2011
Chilenos Innovate from the Sea to the Moon By Shonika Proctor
I
n December, 1831, Charles Darwin set off on a nautical expedition aboard the ship, HMS Beagle. The expedition, which spanned nearly 5 years, encompassed a detailed journal of his observations in the areas of biology, geology and anthropology. Ultimately his findings developed into a book and became one of his most famed works, Voyage of the Beagle. The expedition included travels to South America and the Galapagos Islands, widely known for its indigenous species unique to the islands. One hundred and eighty years later, Chilean Eduardo Labarca is inventing a way to be able to navigate and observe that same world, from a wireless handheld device. Labarca says, ¨70% of our world we will never really know because it is under water.¨ He is currently working to change that. While he believes that some people may view his work as a novelty, he said he is truly fascinated by this other world that few of us will ever be able to experience. He is working in the field of telepresence and Remote Operated Vehicles (ROV´s). He wants anyone in the world to be able to discover a completely different universe underwater. Recently, he launched his first wireless sensor submarines off the Galapagos Islands and is currently testing the system using a combination of robotics, IAR, communications and social networks. Currently Labarca is in Silicon Valley prototyping another one of his ideas while participating in a 10-week program at Singularity University. Within a 6 month time period, close by in Mountain View, California, fellow Chileno, Nicolás Orellana, CEO of Welcu (welcu.cl), has achieved yet another milestone for South America. In January 2011, it was publicly announced that his company was the first in South America to receive funding from Tomorrow Ventures, the investment fund of former Google CEO Eric Schmidt. Welcu is a solution-based business that seeks to make online ticketing and event management a more efficient and effective process before, during, and after the event, using tools such as invitations, ticketing and accreditation. The most recent announcement out of the Welcu camp is that they have been invited to participate in the Acceleration Program ‘500 Startups’ based in Silicon Valley. They will participate in the accelerator along with 20 other foreign companies. An investment fund with support that includes an investment of $50,000 USD, 500 Startups could even-
tually reach $100,000 USD at the end of the acceleration program. Welcu is the first Chilean company to receive funding and have Dave McClure (founder of 500 Startups) as an investor. Back in Santiago, Chile, the DragonBots (dragonbots.org), a group of young robotic enthusiasts, ages 10-13 years old, have also captured the attention of California as they were the only team in Latin America selected for the Moonbot 2.0 Finals. The contest, which is organized by the Lego Group and Google Lunar X Prize Foundation, asks young people to create scientific videos and programs and share why their robot should be sent to the moon on an upcoming space mission. Other high profile program sponsors and supporters include NASA, Wired Magazine and First Lego League. In addition to the Chilean team, 18 finalists were selected from the U.S. and 1 team from Malaysia. The DragonBots are members of Corazon de Chileno, the First Lego League launched in Chile in 2007. They have been participating in international competition since 2008 and have won 2 prestigious awards. Drag-
onBot team members include, Andrés Seguel, 12, who states that he has 5 years of experience in robotics, his 17 year old brother, Sergio Seguel and their 10 year old sister. Alan Etchart, 13, Ignacio Gonzalez, 12, Ignacio Tapia, 12 and Vicente Vega, 12 round out the team. Corazon de Chileno founder, José Ignacio Fernández is a huge advocate and voice of increasing STEM (Science Technology Engineering and Math) Education in Latin American schools. Jose was extremely excited to hear the news about one of their member teams reaching the finals. He added that this is the first time the DragonBots have advanced this far at the competition level. He had another major announce-
ment to make – the Engineering Faculty at the Universidad San Sebastián (uss.cl) has generously agreed to help mentor the kids and support them with the development of their robot for their annual international competition to be held April 25-28, 2012 in St. Louis, Missouri, USA. More than 16,000 teams in 57 countries, representing more than 150,000 kids are members of the First Lego International League. Corazon de Chileno is currently seeking sponsors and partners to help offset the cost of traveling with 25 youth from Chile to the states. Learn more about their organization and the great work they are doing with youth at corazondechileno.cl. • ILC
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15
AUGUST 2011 / LITTLE THINKERS
Welcome to Our Big Little Thinkers Pages
The World’s Most Powerful Bit of Equipment – Your Brain: Part One
O
ne of the things I regularly hear when I’m working with people – little and big – with games and exercises like the ones in the Little Thinkers pages is “My brain hurts!“ In fact, it’s when I hear this that I know the exercises are working! So, in anticipation of getting your brain to hurt, let’s a have a quick two-part look at the brain to see what’s going on when we think a little differently. This month we can look at the structure of the brain and learn how you don’t have one brain, you have three! Next month we will see how you start to wire up your brain and what its incredible potential really is. But first, imagine a football pitch. This is your head. Imagine, near where the players come onto the pitch at the beginning of the game, there are a load of football fans, chanting, shouting, having a bit of a fight. This is the most basic part of your brain. It’s called the reptilian brain and was the first part of our brain to evolve. (You can imagine the football fans have got iguanas on leads if you like.) Next, surrounding them in a semi-circle, are a bigger group of fans, real fans, who truly love their team. And adore the top player (let’s call him, I don’t know, off the top of my head, Sanchez…). They have been going to matches since as long as they can remember and are proud to be part of the club. Instead of reptiles they have dogs on leads, nice dogs. This is your mammal brain. It deals with emotions and also long-term memory. This was the second part of your brain to evolve. Finally, surrounding them, are the managers, the newspaper reporters, the finance people, the advertising people, the agents, the analysts, the investors, the pundits – all those people who benefit from being involved by thinking about what the club is all
Guide to Parents and Teachers: Teaching children what to think is not enough these days. Knowledge has been democratized and everyone has access to it all of the time if they really want it. The next great step is not just teaching children what to think but how to think. This is what these Little Thinkers pages are all about, allowing you the opportunity to work with your children not to find out what they know but what they think. And the two are very different things.
about. These people represent the last part of our brain to evolve, known as the neo (which means ”new”) cortex. This is the part of our brain that helps separate humans from everything else. When it comes to learning, if the fighting, chanting fans aren’t quiet – that is to say you feel relaxed, not scared – you can’t learn properly. Equally, if the ”reptiles” are quiet but you aren’t happy or excited or motivated or confident or any of a range of positive emotions you can enjoy, then again, you won’t learn to the best of your ability. But, when the reptile brain is relaxed, when the emotional brain is switched on in a positive way then - and only then – your powerful thinking and learning brain, your clever brain, can really show what it is capable of. Which, as we will see next month, is a great deal. In the meantime, take a deep breath and relax, think about how clever you are and how clever you want to be and get your thinking brain around the following games. And enjoy getting that brain to hurt. Good luck
Ian Gilbert and Independent Thinking
The man behind Little Thinkers and Independent Thinking is Ian Gilbert, an educational innovator, entrepreneur and award-winning author who has worked for two decades helping schools bring the best out of young people through improved thinking, learning, motivation, creativity. He has recently moved to Chile to introduce his work across South America. For more information please visit www.independentthinking.com or e-mail us on learn@independenentthinking.co.uk
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LITTLE THINKERS / AUGUST 2011
Very Little Thinkers (8 years and under) The Very odd one out
Which one is the odd one out (in your opinion)? a) A cup b) Two hats c) Three camels
Thunks ™
The answer is simple – it’s either yes or no…
a) Do clocks think? b) If I switch off the lights do the walls change colour? c) Is the moon ”in” the sky?
Connexions
Highly creative people see the way everything is linked. See if you can spot the inks between the following (and remember, there are no right answers): a) An island b) A banana c) A book
Which would win?
In a “fight” which of the following pairs would come out on top and why?: a) An pine tree v/s a pineapple b) A cat v/s a pencil c) boat v/s a tank
What happens next?
Finish this short story with what you think would happen next: d) If there was one thing that Samuel the Spider feared more than anything else it was…
Which means what?
This time there are right answers as you match the word with its meaning: a) Slippery b) Artificial c) Tea towel
1) Not real 2) Makes you slide 3) What you use to dry plates with
Oodles of Doodles
Turn these five circles into five different types of living thing:
Superhero or supervillain?
If you mixed the following together would they be a superhero or supervillain and what would their special powers be?
a) Alexis Sanchez b) Batman c) The man who works in the toyshop
Medium-Sized Little Thinkers (8-12 years)
Have a go at all of the tasks in the Very Little Thinkers column but also here are some especially for you:
Mind the Gap
Here is a paragraph with some words missing for you to fill in. There are no right answers but the sentence has to make sense: It’s not easy being a _________ I can tell you! First you have to __________ every few days. Then there is all the __________ you have to do--especially when the __________ is __________.
Thunks ™
Here are some Thunks just for you. The answer is yes or no, getting to the answer isn’t as straightforward: a) If I borrow a million dollars am I a millionaire? b) Is there ”up” in space? c) Can a sheet of red paper be blank?
Twisted Wikis
Here are three biographies from Wikipedia that we’ve muddled up. You have to work out which three celebrities we are talking about here and also which ”fact” we have simply made up: Despite their being so many stories about him, no one is entirely sure if he actually existed or if he was just a criminal who lived in a tree, stole from the rich and helped create films like Toy Story and Up. We do know that he dropped out of college and set his company up in a garage with his friend and is one of the richest people in the world today, despite his policy of non-violence and the fact that he wore sandals and wove his own clothes.
What comes next?
What is the missing fourth item in this random list and why? a) Tuesday b) Christmas c) Three fingers d) ?
One-Minute Story
Now using these same items from the list make up a story that includes them all.
If this is the answer what’s the question? Instead of us asking you a question how about I give you some answers and let you tell me what the questions would be: A: No, you can’t, not with that spoon Q: ? A: In France you can, but not Brazil Q: ? A: There was, but then it stopped Q: ?
Text Speak
What could the following entirely made-up-on-the-spot text speak acronyms stand for? a) 3B4M b) SSS c) 8TFH
Creative commons
What do the following random objects have in common? a) A hole in a wall b) A zebra c) The 7th March
8-Way Thinking
8-Way Thinking gets you to look at the world through eight different angles – words, sights, sounds, people, feelings, actions, numbers and nature. Do an 8-Way Think, where you come up with a question about the topic for each one of the eight angles, on the following topics: a) Light b) Rugby c) Lizards
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17
AUGUST 2011 / LITTLE THINKERS
Big Little Thinkers (12 -100 years) You can do all the exercises I set for the Very Little Thinkers and for the Medium-Sized Little Thinkers but, also, here are some just to stretch your older brains:
Thunks™
Yes or no – what do you think? Might even be yes and no…! a) Can anything be a toy? b) Does a firework look the same from the back as it does from the front? c) Can you think of anything that can’t be ugly?
Order, order!
Put the following in order of importance – no rights or wrongs remember: a) Birds b) Fish c) Apples d) Hamburgers e) Buses f) Nurses
Twisted Historical Wikis
I’ve muddled up the Wikipedia histories of three countries. Try and untangle them and also identify the one ‘fact’ that I’ve just made up: Located on the edge of the Arabian Gulf, this country is made up of a number of smaller states ruled by an Emir and whose main export is flowers of all kinds. Almost entirely flat, this country also boasts the deepest lake in the world, the largest saucepan factory outside of America and put the first dog into space
Which means what?
This time there are right answers as you match these more complicated words with their meanings. Beware of the trick though…: a) Complimentary b) Priceless c) Complementary
1) Without need for payment 2) Expressing praise 3) Costs a great deal
Quick Thinking Sometimes you have to think both creatively and quickly. See how quickly you can do the following (and then try and beat your friends and family): › Name four things that sing › Identity what they all have in common (apart from being able to sing) › Put them in order of size › Come up with four jobs that would hate the four singing things › Identify how you could make money from each of the four singing things
Which almost means what?
Match up the nearest synonym (that is to say a word that effectively means the same as another word) for the following list. Again. Watch out for the trick…: a) Dog b) Dogged c) Dog-eared 1) Stubborn 2) Scruffy 3) Failure
Remember, you can do the same exercise again by simply changing the item in step one…
You can all give your brains a rest now and go back to Facebook! E-mail me on ian@independentthinking.co.uk if you have any questions or want to share your answers with me. I may print my favourite answers in next month’s Little Thinkers pages.
For more Thunks check out my Little Book of Thunks or go to www.thunks.co.uk where you can add your own.
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18
Interview / AUGUST 2011
The Rise of the
By Harper Bridgers
I
t’s been over a year since miner Florencio Ávalos traveled the 700 meters to the bottom of San José Mine through a large tunnel on a hill only to be trapped for 10 weeks of one of the fiercest international rescue efforts ever attempted, in which 33 men narrowly escaped death’s grip. And yet the majority of the inadequate health and safety policies responsible for this tragedy remain in place. Recently, Chilean Senator Carlos Cantero, member of the high chamber’s Mining Commission, urged the administration “to ratify the Mine Health and Security Agreement that has existed in 1998,” which puts forth regulations concerning the issue, as reported by Chile’s Cooperativa. “I am not happy with the current advances,” said Cantero in the article. “I would like that we could be able to advance by much firmer steps.” He has also proposed that the agreement issued in the International Organization of Labor should be brought to Parliament, which would force the state to write adequate legislation about the rules and regulations in Chile’s mines. Ex-Mining Minister and current Minister of Public Works Laurence Golborne responded that Piñera had recently signed a list that addressed “a good part” of the demands. On the grassroots level, the miners from the world’s biggest copper mine, La Escondida, recently went on an illegal strike on account of a common complaint within the industry—that too much of the profit from the country’s most valued export stays in the hands of private foreign investors. “Los mineros” came to identify the 33 that overcame all odds to see the light of day, but perhaps in the near future it will refer to the hundreds of employees of Compañía San Esteban Primera who did not get trapped that remain unemployed, or the many who lose life and limb every year. Today, the majority of “the 33” have yet to return to steady work, and many are still dealing with psychological trauma from the accident that had them buried beneath the Earth’s surface for an agonizing 69 days. “I have had problems sleeping,” said Carlos Mamani, the only Bolivian trapped in the mine, in a recent interview with The Clinic. “It scares me to start working and to never come back home.” He will, however, return to mining if no other option presents itself, he said.
“I asked Urzúa, ‘The whole world wants to know how you guided these men to safety,’ and he said ‘humor and democracy. We were 33, so 16 plus one was a majority,’” said Franklin. Photos: Jonathan Franklin
g, wearing out and Drill bits were constantly breakin eyard” used bits lay grav ll “dri the in shearing off. Here rescue effort. silent, testament to the tough
Family members commu nicated with the miners writing messages, the by n carefully stashing the letters in plastic tubes which were then lowered 700 meters to the trapped men.
“Since we’re all so connected now because of the Internet, we usually see how we’re connected for negative reasons, a war, 9/11,” said Franklin, “but this was a brief example in this global world how a single event can have the power to unite people in a very positive way. I found it to be a very positive example of what can be done because we are all so wired and connected.”
Some miners have become accustomed to odd jobs, and others have dedicated themselves to other businesses like selling fruit and vegetables. Their new lives began on October 13, 2010. During a 24-hour span in which an estimated one billion people watched worldwide, medical personnel first verified Ávalos’s physical and mental condition before he stepped out of the rescue capsule to greet his wife and weeping child, a surreal moment in which the world met eyes with the first of 33 men who had been buried as miners and resurrected as celebrities. “They completely freaked out,” says Jonathan Franklin, a journalist who gained an all-access pass to the mission. “I asked them later what they thought, they thought six or seven people would be waiting for them. They had no clue that they were world superstars at the level they were.” Franklin, who wrote a book entitled 33 Men about his experience reporting from the mine, remembered speaking with shift foreman Luis Urzúa and others a mere 15 minutes after they made it to surface.
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At the mouth of the mine, one miner’s brother carefully wrote the names of all the miners on a stone and then added the phrase “All One Family.” To many at Camp Hope the rock looked like too much like a tombstone to be comforting
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PHOTO: NEVADOS DE CHILLÁN
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AUGUST 2011 / Interview
20
Interview / AUGUST 2011
Like Gardners tending a small plot, family members fixed the shrines at Camp Hope daily.
33
The Rise of the
“I asked Urzúa, ‘The whole world wants to know how you guided these men to safety,’ and he said ‘humor and democracy. We were 33, so 16 plus one was a majority,’” said Franklin. It was true the whole world wanted to know. Conversation about the trapped miners often drifted to imaginative proposals about their status. Some pictured a Lord-of-the-Flies climax, while others tried to fathom living in the dark 700 meters below ground without going crazy, or without giving up hope and preferring to die. San José Mine was no stranger to fatal accidents and debilitating injuries. The 120-year-old mine was so dangerous, the crew nicknamed themselves “the kamikazes”, yet it continued production even under pathetic working conditions. In his book, Franklin is quick to acknowledge that this mine was not a prime example of Chile’s mining industry. Instead it was a sad exception to some of the world’s safest mines, although implying that mining is safe could be misleading. Any mine collapse, even under safe conditions, has tended to drain optimism rather than bolster it. However, hope was not lacking in Chile, most profoundly among the family members that inhabited the camp rightfully called Esperanza, at the base of the hill. They mourned, cheered, ate and slept as close to their loved ones as physically possible without tunneling through the ground on which they walked. For the general public the story retained a certain level of unreality, a gloss that perpetuated the drama without the gloom of empathic despair. “I think it was always much more precarious than the public realized,” said Franklin, having lived and reported from the front lines for about six weeks. “Anybody who works in mining knows that even a safe mining operation is inherently dangerous. It’s like saying you’re safe in a combat unit at war... I think because there was progress that was reported almost everyday, plan A here, plan B here, plan C, people didn’t realize all the little failures, and how close the guys may have come to dying along the way.” Even the day when the miners were scheduled to be rescued, there was a massive cave-in near their shelter that almost killed them, a fact not heavily reported at the time. On the day when first contact was made, Chile
Even the day when the miners were scheduled to be rescued, there was a massive cave-in near their shelter that almost killed them, a fact not heavily reported at the time.
Family members prayed and maintained faith that the trapped men were alive. Even when rescue workers were doubtful, the families lit candles, built shrines and pushed for the rescue to continue.
and the rest of the world received a visual glimpse into the lives of their new favorite characters. They punched through with the famous note scribed with red pen stating that all 33 were alive in the refuge and in the iconic video broadcasted shortly after, these lost figures appeared real. The first frames seemed straight out of a science fiction film, in which desperate life had been found in a dark, damp abyss. From then on “Los 33” became international celebrities. The press unfolded their narrative, and people hung on. “The public reaction was key here, because all the friends and family of these guys just stormed up to
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the mine and basically camped out, saying ‘we’re not going until you save them,’” said Franklin. “I think it really helped that these guys were from a singular community. If it had been a mine in another country the guys might have been from different parts of the country, but it affected one community, Copiapó, so strongly...I think that’s the reason they got saved. The family members just insisted that everything had to be done. That really brings urgency into everybody’s work.” It quickly became a technical challenge that had the world mining community on its toes. Codelco, Chile’s world-class mining company, was collaborat-
Celebrating New Year’s
27
at the sea
O
21 By Carolina Sipos
on
AUGUST 2011 / Interview
The fireworks are a tradition since 1952 and are accompanied by a party that shuts down streets and draws over 1 million visitors to the ports and beaches each December 31st. While the show is similar every year, some novelties straight from the labs of Igual Pyrotechnics will surprise spectators in the first minutes of 2011. Initiated from 17 ships lying at anchor in the bays of Valparaiso, Viña del e centers nerv rent up diffe to visit the Mar and Concón, 30.000 explosions will light the Author Jonathan Franklin was able ds of san thou t kep e polic as n Eve ks. wee rumoured to be from the The views n for are operatio uebest the resc of sky. ers, min the w rvie itted to inte Barón or 21 even klin was permYugoslavo, promenades of Gervasoni, rters at bay, Fran repo they were underground. den Mayo. whe
wh at ´ s
ver 20 tons of explosives are currently being shipped from Barcelona, Spain, to the San Antonio port in Chile. They were ordered by Mario Igual, the man in charge of one of the most extensive fireworks in the world. “New Years at the sea 2011” will illuminate 21 kilometres of Chile’s coast for a 25 minute long spectacle of light.
Jonathan Franklin spent wee ks front row with the rescue operation. Here he is with paramedics who deliver food and messages to the miners.
ing with top minds from Chile, the spent U.S., Canada and Sebastian The city of Valparaiso alone USD $200.000 on Piñera pounced on the situation from the start. more. San José Mine owners, Compañía San Esteban last year’s red, white and blue fireworks theme. OnThe administration reported they spent $10.5 million on the mission plus in-kind contributions. Minera on the bankruptcy this Primera, last day were of 2010, theverge city’sofbars and nightclubs when the mine collapsed, so assistance with the search will open early, while the main square will beSome filledaccused the president of exploiting them and milking and with rescuelive attempts was obligatory. music until sunrise. Expect to be covered in it for all it was worth. Others proposed that it wasbut his chance to show up former president Michelle United States Postal Service sent lbs. of confetti and embraces when the26,000 clock hits 00:01, Bachelet, airfreight for free. The Japanese shipped about a mile the celebrations really start three days in advance of who was criticized by her post-earthquake theoptic big moment, withOakley a street carnival and tsunami efforts in February of that year. But of fiber cables to Chile. donated the and Ra- parade made up the of actors, dancers, painters, musicians and believes it was mostly a mix of good will and Franklin dar sunglasses miners wore during their transition course thousands offollowing Chileansthe from thethe challenge of overcoming the odds that got Piñera fromofdark to light. Many were storyall re-over country. so involved by taking huge risks. ligiously, and they wanted to get involved. “I personally don’t think having a businessman “Since we’re all so connected now because of the If you car,connected make sure to get as there a president is often a very good idea, but if you’re Internet, we want usuallyto seego howbywe’re for negaAfter said that,Franklin, traffic jams are likely spoil miners, having a businessman is perfect,” said tive before reasons,noon. a war, 9/11,” “but this was a totrapped fun. Ainbetter ideaworld is to take bus,event but reserve Franklin. “He looked at it like an entrepreneur. He briefthe example this global how athe single well intoadvance. Theinsame goes for hotels was like, ‘we don’t know how to do this, but we’re can your have seat the power unite people a very posiwhich tive and way. Iapartments, found it to be a verymight positivealready examplebe of booked going to do three separate plans, and one of them is of the we elevated Either theto work.’ He knew that failure was part of the whatout candespite be done because are all soprices. wired and con-way, going Valparaiso fireworks at the sea are an experience nected.” game, and he didn’t really care if it was plan A, plan not to be missed. Happy New Year! Along with help from mining experts, President B or plan C.”
During the first anniversary of the tragic collapse that spawned Los 33, many reminisced about heroic feats of risk and reward, along with the reality show that propagated the suspense of the rescue mission. Above all, and most importantly, people remembered how a country, and the world, came together in support of the overwhelming underdog. “At Camp Home, they really showed the best side of Chilean character,” said Franklin. “They worked together and were really united under a common goal. In general, the atmosphere was like when a nation comes together for a war, but there wasn’t an enemy, or maybe time was the enemy. There was this real common stance that everybody seemed to get behind— that the miners were going to get out. You didn’t hear that many doubts after they were found alive. There was frustration that it would take forever, but you didn’t hear that many doubts.” “For me, it was really a showcase of Chilean cando.” • ILC
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HISTORY / AUGUST 2011
Chilean Mining
A history of water, war and Copper
By Ben Angel
Photos: Archivo Nacional
C
hile stands as one of the greatest sources of copper in the world. According to the British Geological Survey, of the 15.1 million tons produced worldwide, over 5 million tons comes from Chile. The next largest copper producer is the United States at 1.2 million. The threat of a strike in Chilean mines can cause panic in the copper markets worldwide, such is the strength of the mining sector in Chile. The history of mining in Chile is therefore rather extensive, and important in understanding the history, and potential, of the country as a whole. Mining – why Chile? When in November, 1519, Fernando de Magallanes passed through the Estrecho de Todos los Santos the first feature he noticed was the coast. The second was the mountains. The Andes have always been known for precious metals, even in pre-history. Hunter-gatherer sites such as the Pali Aike lava tubes and the Stone Age ChanChan cultural complex show extensive use of igneous rocks for tools and hunting weapons at least 7,000 years ago. Over the next three millennia, the use of precious metals emerged, indicating the start of rudimentary mining, but extraction methods likely did not change much during the Inca Period in Peru, Bolivia, and northern Chile. Still, Inca mines certainly grew more productive as their empire grew, and by the time that the Spanish seized Atahualpa in November, 1532, enough gold had been collected to fill a large room, and enough silver to fill two. Spanish precious metal extraction The Spanish brought with them more than an obsession for the conquest of rich cities, real and imagined. They brought new ore extraction techniques. In 1550, Georgius Agricola, a Saxon living within the Hapsburg-
When in November, 1519, Fernando de Magallanes passed through the Estrecho de Todos los Santos the first feature he noticed was the coast. The second was the mountains. The Andes have always been known for precious metals, even in pre-history.
The Strait of Magellan is the most important natural passage between the Pacific and the Atlantic oceans, but it is considered a difficult route to navigate because of the unpredictable winds and currents and the narrowness of the passage.
Chuquicamata is by digged volume the biggest open pit copper mine in the world, located in the north of Chile.
controlled Holy Roman Empire, wrote in his book “De Re Metallica,” about the use of a water wheel for several operations used in mining, including lifting of material out of a shaft, and the grinding of ore. It was this latter technique that transferred readily over to the other Hapsburg-controlled empire in Madrid, and which was applied for the first time in Chile two decades later with the first “maray,” an early stone mining mill. Following the Spanish, came the European technique of using mercury to collect ore during extraction. The most commonly occurring metal that stays liquid at room temperature, mercury, when passed through crushed ore, latches onto metals. The resulting amalgam ball can then be evaporated at a temperature above 356 degrees Celsius, leaving behind only the extracted metal, molten and ready to be poured into an ingot or plate mould. This technique for mining was improved in Chile over the next two centuries, resulting in the eventual evolution of the maray into the Chilean trapiche. In large part, these were owned by farmers, who readily adapted from milling grains to milling rocks. As a result, wealth from both farming and mining went into the great land-owning families of colonial Chile, who continued to hold these means of production after independence from Spain. Industrial age diversification - coal In 1698, military engineer Thomas Savery patented his steam engine, an invention that led to ironmonger Thomas Newcomen developing in 1710 his landmark steam device, and James Watt in 1775 to create his machine, all of which boosted the industrial revolution in England. Steam began to be applied to everything, from mills to moving engines on “railed roads,” to even the ships at sea. At that point, ocean travel no longer depended on the wind – all that was required was coal. Throughout the 1800s, Chile played an important role in international shipping. With the opening of Valparaiso as the “puerto principal” of Chile, vessels of all countries began to make the rapidly growing town their chief port of call. A little more than a decade after the voyage of the sailing ship HMS Beagle, Valparaiso served as a major resupply station for ships sailing out of the Atlantic northward toward the California Gold Rush. The arrival of steamships sparked a new search for a
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different kind of mineral in Chile - coal. In the 1840s, this search intensified south of Concepcion, drawing all manner of fortune seeker into the region. Among these was Matias Cousiño. Cousiño’s story prior to his arrival at Coronel was that of rags-to-riches. His family lost everything in the war for independence, and the young man began working as a postal clerk in Valparaiso. He began to buy and sell livestock, investing his profits in the mill for a silver mine. Innovating from the basic Chilean trapiche model and improving its efficiency, Cousiño’s star rose rapidly, and following his marriage to Luz Gallo Zavala, widow and heiress of the fortune of her late husband, Ignacio Goyenechea, he soon became Director of the powerful mining interest, “La Junta de Minería de Copiapó”. Cousiño established in 1852 the “Compañía Carbonífera de Lota,” and began at once to build an extensive coal mining empire. His coal supplied not only domestic needs, but also the growing needs of steam ships stopping at his former postal station of Valparaiso. “The War for Guano and Saltpeter” – the War of the Pacific The third traditional component of the Chilean mining industry actually didn’t get its start in Chile. The extraction of saltpeter for the production of gunpowder began instead under the administration of Peru and Bolivia. These two countries held the Atacama Desert until
ar, commanded by The Peruvian ironclad Huásc the Esmeralda, a k san rio, ina Miguel Grau Sem ed by Arturo Prat tain Chilean wooden corvette cap bat. com of rs hou r Chacón, after fou
23
AUGUST 2011 / HISTORY
1879. As the hunt for new mineral deposits continued into the late 1800s, prospectors soon discovered a valuable supply of sodium nitrate in guano deposits held in the extremely dry climate of the Atacama Desert. The discoveries, providing a source for the creation of gunpowder, were of such magnitude that Spain triggered a naval war with Peru and Chile for control of Peru’s guano-laden Chincha Islands in 1864. After that war ended and the islands returned to Lima’s control, Chile and Bolivia negotiated an agreement for the peaceful exploitation of mineral deposits in the Atacama Desert, setting a boundary the 24th Parallel (24 degrees South latitude), in return for which Chilean interests would get a percentage. This agreement didn’t last long before both sides began a game of intrigue aimed at getting more. In the midst of this game, Chilean and British investors created the Compañía de Salitres y Ferrocarril de Antofagasta and signed a deal with the Bolivian government that would allow for the extraction of guano from La Chimba. By 1872, the company was bought out by the British-held Melbourne Clark and Company. Work on a new railroad was completed in 1878, but because the Bolivian government had not ratified it, Bolivia’s previous deal to allow for export of saltpeter by that railroad was invalid. However, the Bolivian representatives said that this problem could be resolved with what they called a reasonable tax on exports. The British regarded this as extortion and went to the Chilean government, seeking assistance. As a result Chile invaded the Atacama Desert, and after an initial setback off the coast of Iquique, the Chilean navy defeated the Peruvians, even going so far as to occupy Lima in 1883. Chile’s victory in 1884 resulted in the redrawing of the national boundaries between the three countries to what they are today. Still, despite its decisive nature, and the permanence set forth in the treaties, Bolivia continues to this day to seek some form of restoration of its sover-
The chain of volcanoes that operate across the entire north-south extent of the country indicate that more deposits of minerals are certainly probable. eignty in the region. Resentment also continues today in Peru over the loss of territory from a war that started over saltpeter and guano. Copper becomes king After the War of the Pacific, the Atacama Desert opened up for Chileans, and “Red Gold Fever” spread across the country. In the late 1880s, the Copper Rush hit areas like Calama, with over 400 mining claims being staked on the Chuquicamata Mountain alone. Scenes similar to those in the Klondike a decade later played out in the nearby camps and shantytown settlements. For the lucky, “red gold” would get a miner his share of booze, women, and entertainment. However, with murders occurring on almost a daily basis and rebels periodically confiscating the stakes claimed by the losing side, the bones of the unlucky would merely bleach in the Atacama sun. In 1899, a Scotsman named Norman Walker and his Compañia de Cobres de Antofagasta made one of the first attempts to use a leaching process to produce metal from low grade ore and establish a working mine at Chuquicamata, but the lack of water and difficulty in bringing in supplies doomed the effort. It would take improvement of the leaching process at a mine in the U.S. a decade later before the area around Calama would transform a copper camp into a real mining settlement. Albert C. Burrage, lawyer and investor, brought the improved process with him in April 1911, and started buying up mining claims. However, he didn’t
have the finances to start the mine himself, so he sold his interest to the Guggenheim Brothers of New York. They formed the Chile Exploration Company the following year. By 1914, their mine was in operation and producing 50,000 tons of copper a year by 1920 and 136,000 tons by the time of the stock market crash and global financial crisis in 1929. In 1922, the Anaconda, or Amalgamated, Copper Mining Company expanded operations into Latin America, buying mining operations in both Mexico and Chile, including Chuquicamata. Kennecott retained ownership of operations such as El Teniente, which eventually became the largest underground copper mine in the world. Meanwhile, the other mining sectors in Chile began to flag. Artificial nitrates developed first in Germany during the Great War sapped the need for guano for gunpowder; the nitrate market collapsed. The Panama Canal sapped a significant chunk of the coal market when ships no longer made their port of call in Valparaiso. The rise of petroleum and liquid natural gas drained much of the rest of the market for coal, and by 1969, the mine in Lota was closed, relegating the “Chifron del Diablo” to a future as a tourist attraction. The next major event in the world of Chilean mining was the election of Salvador Allende as President of Chile. Espousing a program that he described as “Chile’s Way to Socialism,” Allende ordered the nationalization of Chilean copper in 1971. The rise of socialism in the country hadn’t been a big surprise, and so companies that foresaw the seizure wisely vacated the market while they could. Kennecott sold its majority interest in El Teniente in the late 1960s, and didn’t suffer as great a shock as Anaconda, which lost two-thirds of its worldwide copper production. The move was not unpopular within Chile, as companies like Anaconda operated with little concern about the social impacts of their decisions. However, nationalization did trigger a worldwide boycott, and likely played a major role in the decision by U.S. President Richard Nixon to covertly back Augusto Pinochet in 1973. Despite the pro-US nature of the military coup, Chile retained control of the nationalized mines, with Pinochet formalizing the creation of the Corporación Nacional del Cobre de Chile, or Codelco, in 1976. New companies were allowed to form under the Pinochet regime, and by his ouster; they had recovered 40% of the national output. In 1992, U.S. mining company, Phelps Dodge, and Japanese mining company, Sumitomo Metal Mining, joined together in developing a new gold and copper mine south of Copiapo called “La Candelaria,” a project that promised to produce 10 percent of Codelco’s entire current production. Today, Candelaria is best known for its environmental management, becoming the first mine in the world to be certified under ISO 14001 standards. Future of Chilean mining Given the nature of the world economy, any claim to certainty in predicting anything about the world’s economy is a bit foolhardy. However, it is reasonably certain that environmental and occupational health and safety management will play a strong role in the future of Chilean mining. For years, mercury has successfully extracted gold from ore, but that same process has created a major problem for the fishing industry as mercury levels increase in the water offshore. Safety in locally run Chilean mines was highlighted for the entire world when the San Jose mine suffered a collapse as a result of what is believed to have been cost-cutting measures made at the expense of worker safety. These issues have the attention of the Chilean government, and likely will play a major role in the evolution of the Chilean mining practices. Meanwhile, the chain of volcanoes that operate across the entire north-south extent of the country indicate that more deposits of minerals are certainly probable in reaches of the country not covered by roads, i.e., areas south of Puerto Montt. New markets for deposits, such as that for the lithium used in modern battery production that is extracted today from the salt flats near San Pedro de Atacama, show promise for the future of mining in the country. Finally, as the ice continues to melt in this period of global warming, Chile’s Antarctic holdings may likewise play a major role in the distant future of Chilean mining – certainly a geological survey cannot be too far away. • ILC
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24
PEPE’S CHILE / AUGUST 2011 Photo: Lorenzo Moscia - www.moscia.cl
is a Miner
The Highs and Lows
C
hile has a long and storied history with mining. Before Chile was even a country, the inhabitants of modern-day northern Chile mined for copper and other precious metals. These same resources drive Chile’s massive copper industry today.ummer’s In fact, almost Chile here and the season has over a third of the world’s copper reserves and is the has already begun to take shape for those in the tourism industry. High world’s leading copper exporter. The northern Atacama Desert is homeseason to some begins of the in mid-December and ends around mid-March. world’s largest copper mines—mines such Studies as the massive show that over the last five Chile has been growing an Chuquicamata. Although northern years, Chiletourism has theinmajorof 7%mine to 9%isper year with visitors ity of Chile’s copper mines, the largeaverage El Teniente spending close to three-hundred million found in central Chile, south of Santiago. dollars per month. However, there have During Chilean president Salvador Allende’s rule,that have shaken and been certain events stirred theand industry Chile nationalized the nation’s copper mines formedsuch as the February 27th earthquake and the decrease in cruise the National Copper Corporation ships of Chile (CODELthat will arrive this year, which went CO). The state-owned firm CODELCO is the world’sforty-five per year to from approximately to thirty that largest copper-producing company, the withuncertain recorded twenty-eight copper are scheduled to dock this season. reserves of 200 years. This means that Chile has enough One favorable point is the media coverage copper to mine for 200 more years. Since Chile’s copper mining is nationalized, the profits and dividends from copper production go to benefit the state. Due to copper’s dominance as Chile’s primary export, the country’s economy follows a boom-and-bust cycle that varies with the price of copper on the world mar-
S
Every Chilean is a miner: either directly working in the mines or indirectly benefiting from the State’s mining profits. Chile obtained for the rescue of the thirty-
9
of Chile’s Tourism Industry By Al Ramirez
How have the events, which have occurred throughout this year, affected your company? On the earthquake: “... It was in our agenda to provide services for an international construction congress, which was going to take place in Santiago this past September, being the MOP (Public Works Ministry) our main sponsor. For obvious reasons, the money they had destined for the congress had to be used immediately after the earthquake in order to aid the affected regions in the south of Chile.” - Cristian Martinez, General Manager of Pacifico Andino Expeditions, Urban & Adventure Tours Chile On the US dollar exchange rate: “Any kind of important event in Chile will affect my business directly. Lately it has been the instability in the American currency (I charge in US dollars), which means that we have to charge more. We are now less competitive in the South American market when it comes to tourism because Chile is one of the most expensive countries for tourists. That obviously means that they tend to stay less time here.” - Hector Medina, owner of “Hector’s Private & Flexible Tour Service” What must a company do in order to
try not to exclude any information that can benefit our country and its regions.” - Rodrigo Gonzalez, General Manager of “ChileXclusive Travel & Incoming” COURTESY PHOTO
By Pepe Rawlinson
n e w s
Every Chilean
What area do you think needs more improvement in toursim (tour companies, restaurants, hotels, shops, musums, etc.)? “All of them. But, specifically, I think commissions should be regulated because sometimes it gets out of hand. I am not against commissions for those who take people to restaurants, hotels, shops, etc., this is how it’s done pretty much all around the world, but I think 10% is more than enough. This can only be regulated through an extensive market study and some serious effort from the government.” - Jose Luis Rojas, General Manager of Serviline Pacific Viña del Mar, Radio Taxi Service.
As the years go by, the people who work in tourism expect to receive a wider scale of visitors, but it seems clear that the earthquake, the unstable currency, the decrease in cruises and the rescue of the thirty-three miners have changed the impression foreingers have of Chile. Having a ministry of tourism seems to be an essential issue, and little by little we will likely see changes that will allow for Chile to Every Chilean will continue to can advance on an international level, which only of help to tourism be be a miner asthose theywho digrely foronnew for their livelihood.
three miners, whichinhas put our country grow in such a seasonal line of work? ket. Recent boom times with high copper prices pulled on the map as a nation that has overcome large surpluses for the Chilean government. The governseveral tragedies and is ready for whatever “First of all, giving quality service in every vicissitudes aspect, which includes working honestly ment wisely saved a lot of this money that was may then occur used in the future. and respectfully towards our passengers. to fund economic stimulus during recessionary times. In order to get a better perspective of In the end, the concept of seasonal work Chile’s mines not only provide work for miners directly what is happening in this “rollercoaster” isn’t something that affects all of Chile; but their revenues impact Chileans industry, all over the country. a Mina I interviewed few people who- October there are many places here that are visited San José 2010. depend on this income for the all year round, so the answer is to mention If you ask any Chilean on the street, the odds are seasonal very success of their business. places within your programs and It would take over two months to good that he or she knows a miner. Don’t be surprised fine in the shelter.” these opportunities to grow and expand by a response like: “Sí po! My cousin works in a copper finally extract the miners. Fortunately, all 33 survived the Chile’s economic future. mine.” While every Chilean doesn’t necessarily work in epic ordeal. Chileans throughout the country awaited each piece a mine, having so many family and friend connections in the mining industry instantly causes everyone in the of news from the San José mine. The story of the minis intertwined with that of its mining industry. Every ers was everywhere: on the television, on billboards, in country to care about mining. Chilean is a miner: either directly working in the mines This was never more apparent than last year’s dramat- newspapers, and in conversations. The entire country or indirectly benefiting from the State’s mining profits. ic rescue of 33 trapped miners. While working in the San shined with a huge patriotic energy and rallied for the years will be a time of evolution for Chile. Industrial Heating The and next Steam200 Systems José mine in northern Chile, a cave-in cut off their exit to safe rescue of their mining brethren. When the copper runs out, will Chile have been transResidential Heating This disaster brought added attention to the dangers the surface. The miners withdrew to a designated shelter formed into a technology hub, a services economy, or High efficiency Pellet and Solid Wood Stoves and awaited rescue. Rescuers tried to enter the mine and of mining and the shortcomings of current installations something yet unseen? Every Chilean will continue to Solar Systems reach them underground but all the paths were blocked. and practices. The hopes of the miners and their famibe a miner as they dig for new opportunities to grow and Vicuña Mackenna Avenue #801, Los Angeles, Chile lies were echoed by Chilean President Piñera he 318246 an- • Cellexpand On the surface, workers drilled1 several probing afiche 6 verde GraficaTypos.pdf 26-05-11 13:14 holes economic future. • ILC Phone:as (56-43) Phone Sales:Chile’s (59-9) 99996547 for not just searching for the miners. After two weeks of frustration nounced that conditions must be improvedin Temuco City: Av. Pedro de Valdivia 0135, Phone (56-45) 646009 Showroom Palazzetti: Av. Las Condes 8283, Santiago, Phone (56-2) 2204189 and failed attempts, they finally reached the miners. The miners but all workers in Chile. Joe “Pepe” Rawlinson is the author of “The Gringo’s Mining is vital to Chile’s economy and the live- Culture Guide to Chile” and shares regular insights into miners sent up a famous note that read “Estamos bien en afiche 6 verde GraficaTypos.pdf 1 26-05-11 12:59 el refugio los 33 which translated reads, “all 33 of us are lihood of many Chileans. Thus the future of Chile Chilean culture and travel on his blog: pepeschile.com
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25
AUGUST 2011 / HEALTH
Trace
Mineral - Copper By Marcelle Dubruel
T
he mining industry is a key contributor to Chile’s economic growth and the main mineral mined is Copper. Copper has many uses and as a result we use products made with copper on a daily basis. Copper’s excellent electrical conductivity and corrosion resistance make it ideal for wiring in common electrical goods as well as plumbing pipes. On a smaller scale, copper is used to make copper pots and copper ornaments and accessories. Interestingly, copper is also important to our overall health and is one of the minerals that have been identified as important in human nutrition. Together with vitamins, there are at least 18 identified minerals that we need for our cells to function efficiently. These minerals make up about 5% of our body weight. The term “major minerals” refer to minerals we need in daily amounts of more than 100mg, like calcium and magnesium. “Trace minerals” refer to those we
require in daily amounts of less than 100mg. Copper is classified as a trace mineral and is the third most abundant trace mineral in our bodies after iron and zinc. The safe dietary daily intake of copper for adults is between 1.5-3.0 mg. Copper is used by our bodies in the manufacture of red blood cells; formation of collagen structures, especially joints and arteries; and in generating energy. This is why some people find wearing a copper bracelet helps to relieve arthritic joint pain and back pain. Copper deficiency is characterised by anemia, fatigue, poor wound healing, elevated cholesterol levels and poor immune function. We can also have too much copper and high copper levels have been linked to schizophrenia, learning disabilities, premenstrual syndrome and anxiety. In the past, there has been evidence of excessive copper intake in areas with copper lined water pipes. Many of the problems associated with too high copper levels can be offset by zinc. Zinc and copper comCopper content of selected foods, in milligrams per 100 gram serving Brazil nuts Almonds Hazelnuts Walnuts Pecans Split peas, dry Buckwheat Peanuts
2.3 1.4 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.2 0.8 0.8
Sunflower oil Butter Rye grain Barley Olive oil Carrot Coconut Garlic
0.5 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3
Millet Whole Wheat Corn oil Ginger root Molasses Turnips Green peas Papaya
0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.1 0.1
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Source: The Encyclopedia of Healing foods marcelle@rootstovitality.com
pete for absorption sites and where there is too much zinc, copper absorption will decrease. On the flip side if there is too much copper in your body, zinc absorption will decrease. The optimal ratio of zinc: copper is 10 : 1. Good multi-vitamin and mineral supplements will contain zinc and copper in this ratio. In nature, foods that are highest in copper are typically even higher in zinc. Nuts and legumes are good examples. While mineral deficiencies are common, they can be avoided by eating a whole-food diet. Plants incorporate minerals from the soil into their own tissues and eating a wide variety of vegetables, fruits, nuts, seeds, and legumes will provide a good supply of both major and trace minerals. Replace refined table salt, which contains little or no trace minerals, with healthier salts rich in trace minerals like Himalayan crystal salt, Vogel Herbamare, or Celtic sea salt. Herbs and spices are also a tasty way to flavour your meals and increase your trace mineral intake. • ILC
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26
SPORTS / AUGUST 2011
Copa AmÉrica
2011 By Brendan Corrigan
T
he 2011 Copa America, the 43rd renewal of the tournament, has come and gone. And for many football followers in Chile, they probably wish it had never arrived at all. A competition that promised so much for ”La Roja”, ultimately – once again – ended in disappointment. Just when it appeared the door had blown wide open with the eliminations of hosts Argentina and, more pertinently, the perennial bogey team Brazil, Claudio Borghi’s side also suffered its own humbling exit at the quarter-final stages. That came at the hands of tournament surprise-package Venezuela, one of the few teams to exceed expectations over the 23 days of action, finishing a highly respectable fourth. Not bad for a country where football must feed off the leftovers from the nation’s number one sport, baseball – a unique situation in the continent, considering ”the beautiful game” dominates the sporting landscape in all of the other competing nations. As for Chile, there are – tenuous as they may be – some positives. The side topped Group C, coming through unbeaten with results that included a respectable 1-1 draw against eventual tournament winners Uruguay plus a well celebrated last-gasp victory over neighbors and rivals Peru. Although Photo: Pascal Mathieu
with a bronze medal finish to its name, the last laugh on that one fell to the Peruvians. On a broader scale, La Roja’s average showing hasn’t affected it globally. In the latest FIFA world rankings it jumped 16 places to number 11. Perhaps the rest of the world wasn’t watching events in Argentina? The tournament itself won’t live long in memory. There was a dearth of positive, attacking football with very often the less-adventurous team succeeding. Sambastyle football in an Argentinean winter just doesn’t mix, so it seems. Furthermore, we had a number of games played in front of paltry attendances, which only added to the general air of lethargy surrounding the competition. The fact that comparatively poorly supported teams such as Paraguay, Peru and Venezuela made the last-four, together with Argentina’s failure to do likewise, played a major part here. But we can’t let any of that take away from Uruguay’s success. Over the three weeks it was the most consistent side and deservedly captured a record title number 15, pulling one clear of Argentina. That they won the championship in Buenos Aries, too. made it taste all the sweeter. As for the beautiful game – well let’s just say it went for a makeover during this Copa America. Fingers-crossed, it returns with vigor for Brazil 2015. • ILC
LCFA: Los Felinos de la Florida made history in Brazil By Pascal Mathieu Cuiabá, BRAZIL. In July, the world of American Football in Latin America was under the spotlight with the presentation of the 1st International match on Brazilian soil between Los Felinos de la Florida from Chile and Arsenal de Cuiabá of Brazil in the state of Mato Grosso in front of 2000 fans gathered at Estadio CPA 1. The Chileans suffered a 48-16 defeat to the hands of the Brazilian Champions. Arsenal drew blood first. Right from the kick-off, Kenneth Joshen picked up the ball on his 10-yard line and “speedy Gonzalez” crossed the whole field without even being touched, passing by Felinos players as if they were practice cones. Chilean players were stunned by the display of speed and agility by the 26-year old former player from the NCAA’s Coastal Carolina Chanticleers. The Chileans kept possession of the ball till the second quarter without being able to hit the end zone. In the 2nd quarter, the Brazilian Arsenal’s big hitters were chopping Felinos’ squad into pieces. Arsenal scored five unanswered touchdowns and the locals were up 41-0 halfway through the game. The Chileans demonstrated that succeeding is not always related to a positive outcome, but is in knowing that you have cast your fear aside in the face of adversity and left everything on the field. They is no doubt in the minds of the Chileans or anyone else present in Cuiabá that Saturday night that “Los Chilenos de Corazon” have achieved somehow, not the impossible, but a major step forward that will take American Football in Chile to the next step. For more information on the LCFA visit: www.lfca.cl • ILCH
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Photos: Andes Mountain
27
AUGUST 2011 / TRAVEL
Colchagua Valley Wine Route This is a spectacular tour of 7 days and 6 nights throught the country’s best vineyards. You’ll have the pleasure of a wine tasting at each vineyard, enjoying the best wines while also learning about wine production and history. Our trip starts in the Central Valley. The first visit begins at the Cousiño Macul vineyard and later continues on to Concha y Toro. Both vineyards are of Chile’s oldest and most distinguished. Later it’s on to Maipo Valley, where the Santa Rita vineyard is located with its chalet that since 1996 has served as a lovely Hotel. In 1885, the german architect Teodoro Burchard, finished building a neogothic chapel alongside the old chalet. Over the years it has been very well preserved and not in vain; one of the restorationists of the Vatican’s Sistine Chapel travelled from Florence (Italy) just to revert this temple. Upon arriving at the hotel, a delicious dinner will be enjoyed by all. The following day, after the respective tour that includes a visit to a museum filled with a collection precolumbian and post conquest art, you’ll be served a delicious lunch. Next, the trip continues to Colchagua Valley. This valley was originally inhabited by the Chiquillanes tribe, the most ferocious warriors of the Mapuche nation. The Mapuche were conquered by the Incas in 15th century, introducing agriculture and irrigation systems, giving way to the beginning of agriculture in Colchagua Valley. Along with the Spanish came the Catholic Order of Jesuit Missionaries whose mission was to evangelize the indigenous villages. These missionaries introduced farming vineyards for the production of wine and to celebrate mass,
hence beginning the history of Colchagua’s Viticulture. During the time of colonization the first of the valley’s ranches were established with their extensive autonomous agricultural estates dedicated to agriculture and livestock and that were later adquired by wealthy families of Spanish descent. By the end of the 16th century, a byproduct of the great mining wealth in Chile, these families introduced finer french varieties, mainly Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere, Merlot and Malbec, they replaced the Spanish varieties that did not produce quality wines. By the beginning of the 20th century the first bulk wine export by the barrel to Europe from Colchagua forever established the character of this valley’s Viticulture. While in Colchagua valley, we’ll also tour the best vineyards and thier chalets tasting the best wines, cheeses, and of course, the best meals. We’ll also break through to the culture with a visit to the Santa Cruz Museum known for it’s arqueology. At the end of the two day visit to Colchagua, the trip
will continue to Maule Valley, arriving at a marvelous place tucked away in the Andes mountains, with a spectacular view of the river’s edge and its cristalline and real pure waters.. the…Río Achibueno. A delicious dinner will be awaiting us. The following day we’ll have at our fingertips the most amazing place to get active with different activities such as hiking and parades, or rafting and kayaking for the more courageous… Upon our return, a most delicious roast “A La Chilena” will be awaiting us. It will be the last night. Nearing the close of our trip on the last day and before our return to Santiago, we’ll stop in at the thermal baths of Panimávida to have a relaxing moment and get some lunch. Later we’ll visit the last vineyard of this valley, the Balduzzi vineyard, also one of our nation’s most visited. In this interesting Andes Mountain Expediciones program, you’ll be able to break through to the spectacular world of wine, its history and the culture, experimenting through your senses and soaking in the land’s aromas and flavors. You’ll meet the famous Chilean cowboy “Huaso Chileno” and his inseparable steed, we’ll go for a carriage ride and you’ll be swept away by nature. You’ll fill your lungs with an aroma of wine and your palate with various fruits of our typical Chilean meals, “Placer para los cinco sentidos”, “Pleasure is for the five senses”. Andes Mountain offer a wide variety of excursions, such as mountaineering (from medium to high altitude), trekking, ski, mountainbike trips and visits to the famous vineyards in central valley of Chile. Visit www.andesmountain.cl for more info.
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By Lisa Kimura From real estate, individual recruitment to business consultation, Professionals in Chile works as a light of guidance for those looking to locate in Chile. I Love Chile’s Lisa Kimura talked with the co-founder Adriana Villarreal Baez to find out more about her inspiration behind the company and what it offers to the wide-ranging clients. -So what initially inspired you to establish Professionals in Chile? -Despite being Chilean myself, arriving in Chile after my long residence in Australia meant I had to face the familiar difficulties of settling in a new country. Even though I speak Spanish, Chile functions on a set of rules and cultural values that are different to other countries. From opening bank accounts to finding properties, I realised there existed a certain attitude to foreigners, based on the assumption that they can wait or pay the most. Having a four-year-old child, I had the opportunity of meeting a network of English speakers living in Chile. It turns out that a lot of them needed help with their new residence in Chile, and after what started as personal favours by lending a hand to them, I realised there was a niche in the market to take this on as a business. -So how can your company help the individuals looking to either locating or relocating in Chile? -It really depends on what that individual requires. The basics will be helping them find the right property, or guiding them through the housing contracts. But we can also recommend them with move companies, schools to English-speaking doctors. -Your services also extend towards professional corporations. How do you help companies and entrepreneurs starting out in Chile? -Chile obviously has a different legal structure. Even though many overseas organisations take on an
extensive research about this country in advance, it is still important to have someone to help them understand the Chilean market. Most companies also require local recruitment. This is an area our company works in two ways, where we ensure that companies can find the right employees from the Chilean community but also for those locals to have a firm understanding of what these corporations are about. So we are not just about the numbers; we do our best to really get to know the clients and act as HR for them. -Why do you think companies should be
looking at either establishing or expanding businesses into Chile? What is so special about the country? -Well I believe that Chile has a fantastic economy compared to other nations, one that is growing. It is also politically stable, which naturally makes an ideal foundation for businesses. On a more personal level, I think the country has so much to offer in terms of the cultural aspects. -Your services are impressively extensive and broad. Is there an overall goal you are trying to achieve in helping both the corporations and individuals? -It would certainly be easier and far simpler to limit our company’s services. Yet it is so easy to disappoint or lose respect from people and organisations, that by not cutting down those fine details, I believe all our customers can be fully satisfied with us. And building an excellent reputation as a company is our ultimate aim. What makes Professionals in Chile in a sense so approachable is that their company was founded as a result of Adriana’s struggles in Chile, so similar to what we often experience in new countries. The extensive range of their services is undoubtedly remarkable, yet it is most of all inspiring to see a living demonstration where one’s personal experience was transformed to becoming a thriving business.
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28
TRAVEL / AUGUST 2011
Punta de Lobos: Paradise for Surfers… and Daydreamers A sunny winter afternoon prompts one expat’s thirst for the Chilean coastline. By Jennifer Massoni
I
f there is anything a warm winter weekend in Santiago makes me crave it’s a summer weekend at the coast. The craving is apt, as it’s the heart of summer back home in California and very much a winter smogland here. Fortunately, in Chile it is possible for t-shirt weather to arrive at the end of July and for our snowcapped peaks to melt (in my mind at least) into the roaring waves of Punta de Lobos, the surfer’s paradise just south of Pichilemu, a two-to-three-to-four-hour drive from Santiago depending on how gringo you are. While it may be a few months yet before peak season arrives, I recommend taking advantage of a weekend to escape to this rocky coastal retreat while the cabanas are a-plenty and the waves are always breaking. This stretch of Chilean coastline is home to some of the most consistent surf the world-over. But you don’t have to be a surfer to enjoy the view from the region’s jagged cliffs or even get in the water (you need a wetsuit year-round). Last December, my husband Ryan and I chose Punta de Lobos, a surf town just south of Pichilemu, for our honeymoon destination; it was a part of Chile—our new home thanks to my husband’s work—that I had been eager to see after leaving behind a San Francisco apartment where I could hear the waves crash through the fog. After all, a winter wedding in California can get you a summer honeymoon in Chile, over New Year’s Eve no less. So we fought holiday traffic, but didn’t mind. We were newlyweds; a Copec stop is a good time when all you want to do is talk about how lucky you feel to have found one another. Soon enough the hot highway turned into pine trees that reminded us of Lake Tahoe, wheat-colored hillsides that reminded me of my Northern California hometown and Ryan of his, and the dirt roads of this “Wolves Point” that didn’t have to summon any comparison—they gave off a first-time beauty all their own, studded by grazing horses and
How thrilling it is to catch one that takes you all the way into shore. How your body can still meet the challenge of an ever-moving ocean and how the concentration and the letting go can funnel an active mind straight into the present moment.
scented by mile-high Eucalyptus. We were there. At Surf Lodge Punta de Lobos, a cluster of eight eco-friendly, hand-built cabanas nestled on high with views of that very same Pacific I know so well, not to mention salt baths and a swimming pool. Within 24 hours, we had traveled from winter’s rain to summer’s rays, from “single” to newlywed, and from the familiarity of home to the excitement of another hemisphere. We pulled up pre-sunset to an outdoor, fireside dinner cooked at the onsite restaurant, cold Pisco Sours at the ready, and the promise of fireworks over the beach. Truth be told, our post-wedding exhaustion made us retreat to our cabana while it was still 2010, but nothing beats awaking to a new year, solid head-high waves (if you’re anything like my husband), perfect patches of sand and sun (if you’re anything like me), and plenty of fresh air (which does any Santiaguiño good). Once you’ve arrived at a place this secluded yet comfortable—the cabanas have their own kitchens, driveways and open fields, the glass-walled square main house sports a surf shop, intimate bar and fireplace, and the property is landscaped with local flora and fauna—it makes the small town of Pichilemu some four miles up the coastal road feel like a big city. Still, the proximity offers a healthy bounty of restaurants and fresh bags of churros to douse with powdered sugar for a post-surf beach stroll. Pichilemu is big wave country after all. As my husband tells me, it has some of the best left-hand breaks around. Those lefts can also have some twenty-foot faces. In other words, not the place for beginners to make a splash. So I left the solid head-highs to him, but the
Californian in me still knows how to read the water. Instead, I took a tip from the local kiddies and rented a boogie board. In my past attempts to take on surfing, I might have lost track of how fun it is to splash around in the smaller waves. How stabilizing it is to still have your feet on the sand when you jump for the wave that looks right. How thrilling it is to catch one that takes you all the way into shore. How your body can still meet the challenge of an ever-moving ocean and how the concentration and the letting go can funnel an active mind straight into the present moment. And how long that rush can last. All the while, I knew my brand new husband was out there, too, catching the larger waves just around the point, the very same ones that eventually tempered down into the white water I was hopping on. We were still riding together, he and I, as we get to with the long, glassy wave curling ahead of us—one we are equipped for with equal skill, as partners. My husband probably doesn’t want me to publicize just what a great “fin de via” Punta de Lobos really is, but I wouldn’t deprive anyone else of the feeling I get there. And while you ideally only get to honeymoon once, all it takes is a daydream, a car and a wetsuit to capture that feeling all over again, whether it’s winter or summer. • ILC
Where to Stay:
Surf Lodge Punta de Lobos Reservations: (56) 9-81541106 reservas@posadapuntadelobos.cl www.posadapuntadelobos.cl/ingles/index.htm
Jennifer Massoni is a writer from San Francisco. She recently moved 6,000 away to Santiago to start married life, teach English, and learn Spanish. You can follow her musings at http://notesfromthesouthernhemisphere.blogspot.com/.
Follow Soltera in Santiago, the single gringa about town, every Thursday on www.ilovechile.cl
29
Photo: Pamela Lagos
AUGUST 2011 / TRAVEL AND WINE
Casablanca
Cool Climate Valley
By Al Ramirez
C
Photo: Pamela Lagos
hoosing great white wines can be a bit complicated, but as a famous wine connoisseur in Chile once said, “Casablanca’s white wines can’t be imitated anywhere in the world.” Pablo Morandé, who, about 25 years ago, was responsible for making Concha y Toro’s Don Melchor, discovered Casablanca Valley. In the 1980’s, Pablo was looking for the perfect land to grow vines, and after seeing the countryside near San Antonio and Valparaiso, he found that the perfect place in the Casablanca Valley, in an area where a Huaso (Cowboy) grew Moscatel, Torrontel, and País. Pablo Morandé mentioned in an interview that the huaso laughed at him when he bought the land and said, “You’re crazy, you’ll only get the frost and
lose your plants.” What that huaso said was right, and when he felt foolish about not listening; he decided to plant again, but would be more careful the next time around. As the years passed, he found a similarity between Casablanca and California wines; Chardonnay became an emblematic variety for the valley, followed by Sauvignon Blanc, and Pinot Noir. This last grape is a great choice at Morande´s winery, under their reserve line, “Terrarum.” Eventually, the Casablanca Valley became known for great white wine. By the late 1990’s he had received some awards, and more people decided to invest in the area. The property value went from approximately $5,000 US dollars per hectare, to $75,000 US Dollars per hectare. Today, there are 12 wineries, many of which have their doors open to the public. • ILC
Listed below are, in my opinion, the best wineries in the valley. If you’d like to visit simply book your tour or tasting party by sending an email on their website or by asking your local tour operator to make arrangements.
1. Viña Casas Del Bosque
This is considered the most elegant winery in the valley. The infrastructure is simply marvelous, and their Sauvignon Blanc is probably your best bet. They also have red wines which they make from grapes that come from Rapel (Cachapoal & Colchagua) in the 6th region. My personal favorite red wine is the “Estate Selection” blend.
2. Viña Loma Larga
These guys have a wide selection of varieties in their winery, such as Malbec, Syrah, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir and a five-variety blend called “Quinteto”.
3. Viña Catrala
“Oh yeah, the one with the girl playing the guitar” is the way we know this wine. They’re the surprisingly good wine producer little known by people in the tourism industry, however, their wines are among the ones you can’t miss when you’re in the area.
4. Viña Emiliana
Biodynamic is their theme. Everything they make is organic; they use their own yeasts, and have a great line of reserve wines. Try “Coyam”, which means oak in Mapudungun or indigenous Mapuche language.
5. Viña Indomita
If you’re looking for a great view and great premium wines, then you have to try the “Duette” tasting. The Chardonnay and the Pinot Noir are very interesting wines. Don’t miss taking a taste when visiting the valley.
... And as a bonus: Viña William Cole – The American who owns this winery has managed to keep a great reputation in the valley with wines like “Bill”, “Columbine” and “Alto Vuelo.” Their prices are very fair and they have a great selection of Pinot Noir.
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30
FOODY CHILE / AUGUST 2011
The Legend of Bloody Mary
For those of you who may be woefully ignorant of the magic that is the Bloody Mary, I’ll tell you that it has many delicious variations and is often what you might call an acquired taste.
By Alicia Granse
I
f you’ve ever spoken to me on a Saturday or a Sunday morning you would know that nothing pleases me more than going to a Bloody Mary buffet. Since most of you have never spoken to me, I don’t blame you for not having this information at the ready. Nor should I really get too angry at restaurants in Chile that also lack this tidbit of personal data regarding Alicia and all her needs. I have to give them credit for at least attempting to put such a particularly American drink on the menu. However, what I do find remarkably irritating is the unwillingness to imagine that the customer knows best. Especially when it comes to a Bloody Mary. For those of you who may be woefully ignorant of the magic that is the Bloody Mary, I’ll tell you that it has many delicious variations and is often what you might call an acquired taste. I acquired the taste many years ago, and can safely say that the proper blend of tomato juice, vodka, Worcestershire sauce, Tabasco, and celery salt will convert even the most skeptic of critics. It rivals Leche de Tigre and any other home remedy your older friend from college ever gave you as a hangover cure, and even a virgin version goes over well in the morning as a pick me up. You may ask why I have decided to go with a beverage for this month’s article, as I usually regale you with tales from my kitchen and other food-related goodies. I’ll tell you right away that the beginning of this story is rather unpleasant, and those of you who suffer from apoplexy at the thought of bad service should shy away. However, here goes. The night of the game between Chile and Peru I made plans to watch the event with a few friends at a karaoke place in Las Condes that shall remain nameless—they know who they are. I arrived about 15 minutes in, and the place was, understandably, packed. While Chileans know nothing about a Bloody Mary they sure do seem to be experts on futbol. Anyway, I sit down, take a look at the menu, and find nothing inspiring. Fortu-
nately or unfortunately, depending on how you look at it, I saw neither hair nor hide of a waitress until she brought my friend a drink—the elusive Bloody Mary. Now, normally I don’t even bother to order one, preferring instead to make them at home with my own recipe, but I took a sip and it was pretty decent. The waitress had already left, so I had to wait for her to come back, but I pointed at my friend’s glass and said ‘I’ll have the same.’ I didn’t get it. When she returned, she came bearing a drink in one of those glasses meant for a daiquiri or other umbrellatype drink. There was shaved ice in it, and the color just wasn’t right. It was full of lemon juice. Don’t get me wrong, lemon juice is both delicious and nutritious, but it’s not what one looks for in a Bloody Mary as the main ingredient. My lips actually puckered as if I had taken a bite into a lemon. I had my friends try it, just to assure myself that I wasn’t insane, and sure enough, everyone’s lips pursed in the same way. So I sent it back saying, ‘I don’t know what this is, but it isn’t a Bloody Mary. It’s pure lemon juice. I want what he’s got.’ The little lady goes up to the bar and returns with a normal looking glass, and gives it to me. It’s obviously the same drink with a bit more Tabasco. I
RECIPE 1 1/2 ounces (1 jigger) vodka 1/2 cup tomato juice 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice Worcestershire sauce to taste Tabasco to taste Celery salt to taste Green olive juice to taste 1 celery stick and three olives for garnish Don’t forget the celery salt rim.
say, ‘look, I’m not an idiot, I know this is the same drink in a different glass, I worked in a bar, I’m familiar with all the tricks. Please bring me one without lemon juice.’ Once again, she walks away only to return 5 minutes later with a drink much the same as the first two. This time she waits to see if I approve. I don’t, and she says, ‘they didn’t put any lemon juice in it.’ I say, ‘ok, well, I’m still not going to drink it. Because if there isn’t any lemon juice, then the tomato is bad and you’re tying to poison me. Please ask them to make one without lemon juice.’ The fourth and final drink is exactly the same and I put it down in disgust, only to hear her say that it was impossible to make one without lemon juice because then it wouldn’t be a Bloody Mary. Now, I don’t know what kind of mix they’re using, but normally tomato juice and lemon juice come in separate containers. Needless to say, I decline to drink what she’s brought or anything else on the menu. So I sit and watch the game in a pout. Now, I’ll give her credit for trying. She has no idea what a Bloody Mary is, and apparently doesn’t know how to deal with a persnickety customer. I can be a bit cantankerous when I want to. But jeez, if a customer says no lemon juice then don’t add lemon juice! Don’t despair, there is a happy ending to this tale. I wrote an email detailing my complaints to the management this morning and surprise, surprise I actually heard back. They offered their sincerest apologies and invited me to a happy hour of a Bloody Mary made to my specifications. I can even bring a friend. There are several things to be learned here. One, don’t order a Bloody Mary in a Chilean bar when it’s busy. Two, things are changing here. They do actually care if customers are happy. Maybe not right away, but if you give them time, they’ll come around. I’ll leave you with a sense of optimism and my recipe for success. • ILC
Flavors from the North By Colin Bennett When it comes to mining the north of Chile is king. Antofagasta, Calama, Coquimbo are all communities shaped by the industry. Chile’s north is a stark contrast from the green, lush environment that gives southern Chile its charm. But the rocky, barren, mars-like landscape has its own beauty and personality that a visit to San Pedro de Atacama shows clearly. When it comes to food and agriculture, our national identity is also centered squarely on central and southern Chile. From the basic products like fruit that are exported globally to typical dishes and treats like German-style kuchen or Chiloe’s curanto, the southern traditions dominate. However, just like the landscape, the north of Chile also has products and regions that give it a unique culinary identity. Here are a few that you should look for: Probably one of the most common items you’ll see in the market that hails from the north is the limon de pica. These small, green, rounded lemons have a tart,
lime flavor. In Peru these are the standard for pisco sour, instead of the large yellow lemon used in your common Chilean pisco sour. You’ll find them in pretty much any produce market. A favorite for the pre-dinner spread are olives from the Azapa valley, which lies near the border city of Arica. These olives are an off-violet color and have a strong bitterness that gives them their flavor. Being an olive growing region you can also find quality olive oils from the region. The valley is also home to papaya and mango crops. You can find aceitunas de azapa at the supermarket, but the best is to get them fresh from a market vender. One of the joys of traveling to the north of Chile is stopping on the highway and buying a chunk of fresh queso de cabra, or goat cheese. Due to the warmer, drier climate the cheese you find up north is creamier than its counterpart
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from the central region. The Elqui Valley marks the start of Chile’s norte chico, and is also home to the pisco industry. Look for higher quality pisco than the typical mass market, 35 grade brands you find on special in the capital. Pisco above 40° is considered the norm for a better quality spirit. The industry is now open for tourists and pisco tasting, similar to the wine experience further south. Although Chile’s central and southern regions are known as the mass fruit and produce growers, the north of Chile, especially around Copiapo, plays a crucial role in the global stock of fresh fruit. This region produces table grapes that are harvested early in the season, starting as early as midNovember, thus the first arrivals of grapes. • ILC Colin Bennett is an editor, writer and guide with foodyChile.com, a blog and tourism website that offers food tips and tours in and around Santiago. Visit www.foodychile.com for more info.
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11:36
If you are an ex-pat with oddball tax problems OR an oddball ex-pat with tax problems, help is available. Call Ken Shields
66670525
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Te invitamos a hacer un recorrido por la
gastronomía del mundo, a redescubrir la magia de cocinar y a vivir la experiencia Coquinaria, en Isidora Goyenechea 3000, frente a Plaza Perú.
Almost well-read, a very Chilean take on nightlife and culture, every Tuesday on www.ilovechile.cl
Lo mejor a tu alcance