MEET SABRINA TOY

SHOP TALK

WEDDING TRADER INTERVIEW Sabrina Toy

You’ll be hearing a lot about this design supremo who is spearheading the creative direction of the big Modeca collection of collections With a sparkling track record with some of bridal’s biggest brands, she’s looking forward to dazzling tomorrow with the famous Dutch house

First, many congratulations on your new role. Tell us a bit about the chapter before this – what were you working on and who with? With over 20 years of bridal gown design experience, my most notable positions included Senior Designer at Maggie Sottero for over 13 years. Although I am most known for my designs for the Sottero & Midgley brand, I also designed for the Maggie Sottero, and the Rebecca Ingram labels. I also worked for Mon Cheri as their Head Bridal Designer for Mon Cheri Bridal, Mon Cheri Flower Girls, 2Be Bridals, and 2Be Couture. There I launched Mon Cheri Couture by Sabrina Toy, a luxury brand

Where did you study design? I graduated Summa cum Laude from the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising (FIDM). I attended the San Francisco campus and moved forward to their elite third-year programme in Los Angeles, of which ten students are accepted globally. At the end of the Advanced Fashion Design Programme, my collection debuted at a gala. Within the year, I won the award for Biennale de Firenze and TALA. I was a finalist Designer for Giorgio of Beverly Hills, Dockers, Andrea Pfister, and Salvatore Ferragamo contests.

Was the move into bridal by chance, or a deliberate step? In high school, I made costumes for my dance company and prom dresses for friends, without patterns… I simply put the fabric on the floor, cut and sewed it, and somehow it magically fitted. When a teacher asked me to design and make her wedding gown, I was hooked!

After honing my skills to become a master tailor at FIDM, I deliberately sought jobs that would get me closer to this goal. My first design job after college was with Jessica McClintock, who was best known for her prom gowns for the Gunne Sax brand.

Jessica was looking for a design assistant, but after our interview created a position for me as a ‘Designer in Training’. She promoted me to Designer three months later. She then created a luxe bridal line for me to design and that really jumpstarted my career in this industry.

During my stint at Jessica McClintock, I was also fortunate enough to dress celebrities for their big events and even weddings! I am forever grateful for Jessica’s belief and trust in me.

What about the industry appeals to you most? The most appealing part of the bridal industry is really knowing that I have made a difference in the lives of over 500,000 brides thus far, and counting! This motivates me to be the best designer I can be, knowing that I have created a little bit of joy for these women, and partook in one of the most special days of their lives.

How do you work? Do you start each new collection with a fixed idea of the direction you take? Honestly, I am very meticulous about how I start each new collection. I’m very methodical in how I work and organise my focus. I set a goal for myself and do whatever it takes to achieve that goal. I usually have a cohesive focal objective with my design but it often, through osmosis, creates a life of its own, which is beauty within itself. I have learned to follow my instincts and trust my own judgment.

What comes first, the fabric or the design? The driving force for my work is the design. I envision the final dress, then put pen to paper to reiterate my thoughts in this form of communication. I then research and find the perfect fabrications and treatments for each design with precision and decisiveness. Knowing how different fabrics react is the key to any successful design. The manipulation of those fabrics and realising their capabilities is my main ingredient.

What has joining Modeca meant to you? It has reinvigorated me with new possibilities, and renewed my passion for design. The world, having gone through such a tough period in our history, has changed in so many ways… both negative and positive. Everyone was impacted to some degree, and for me this new venture has given me a second wind. I am proud and excited about where this road will take us!

Which brands will you be working on, and do you see developing a new personality for each? The brands I will be working on are: Modeca, Le Papillon, Curves, Jazz, and a new and exciting Couture collection. I also design for Randy Fenoli Bridal. With the 2023 collections, a refresh has taken hold of these brands. You will see a focused, cohesive feeling within each label with its distinct voice and personality.

Modeca is for the elegant, romantic, classic bride. She is the Grace Kellyesque woman.

Le Papillon is designed for the urban chic fashionista, glamorous, sometimes boho, and sometimes edgy bride. She is the Sophia Lorenesque woman.

Couture is our luxe brand, imaged with the best fabrications, laces, and embellishments in mind. She has an edgy vibe with sophisticated details and upscale treatments. She is the Audrey Hepburn-esque woman.

Curves has been reimagined to include the latest in bridal fashion trends, made accessible to all shapes and sizes. My mantra is “Love yourself… you do you!”.

Jazz consists of on-trend mix-and- match separates to create a unique look for a more personalized feeling.

Where do you get your inspiration? Most designers will say they are inspired by places, sights, etc. Yes, I am also inspired by my travels and things I see, but it is the everyday occasions that inspire me the most. My inspiration comes from within, and the feelings that are evoked by the stories shared with me. I am grateful to all the strong women that surround my everyday life and the stream of hope I feel when I am with them. Spending time with these women enlightens me – their passion and striving for achievement through personal struggle go straight to my heart, which then in turn goes straight into the heart of my designs. The woman I design for is my inspiration.

Do you have a design team working under you for each label? I am proud to say that each dress has its own story and was created

by many hands. It takes a uniquely- talented team of individuals to create a bridal gown. Nothing is a solo operation.

Our design studio in Taiwan is one of the best teams in the industry. Their combined experience and unique cohesion are why these gowns are so beautifully crafted. With my vision, direction, and leadership, all our gowns take on a life of their own through the careful attention from our devoted design team.

I wish I had the space here in Wedding Trader to name all the people responsible for these works of art! I am truly grateful for their passion and respect their dedication!

With all the uncertainties of the past few years, do you see brides themselves changing their demands? With the pandemic still much in evdence, yes, I do see a shift in the industry. Many retailers in the USA are shifting to a more private shopping experience. With some countries’ social distancing protocols, many brides have limitations to the entourage they bring with them. To many, this is a blessing in disguise, since often too many opinions can sway the bride away from her true heart’s desire.

I also feel that weddings will take on different paths. Yes, there will still be the grander wedding ceremonies for those who love the production of it all. However, I strongly feel there will be a higher increase in more localised/personal/ intimate ceremonies involving smaller attendees but making the event more of quality over quantity. This does not necessarily mean the dresses will be more casual though; the bride will still want the wedding gown of her dreams, but the event itself will hold more meaning in an intimate setting.

Will you be liaising with retailers? As the state of the global pandemic is unclear, it is unclear if I will personally be attending markets in 2022. For now, I intend to be at the Barcelona and Chicago markets.

JLM