PETA’S PICK

Peta’s Picks

Sleeves themselves are no big news, but the styles and detailing in the 2022/2023 collections move arm cover into a very different dimension

How I love a sleeve! Not only does it keep you warm, and I know love can keep you warm, but in January in the snow? Having pictures taken? Sleeve me up, as not only does a sleeve help in the cold, but it adds style and gravitas to a dress, and they are a crucial element of a garment’s look and silhouette.

Okay, so here are my current favourite sleeves, but they are subject to change, because I’m fickle!

JESUS PIERO HOUSE OF ST PATRICK

LIHI HOD

KATE HALFPENNY KATE FEARNLEY

Think Princess Diana‘s sleeves. They epitomised a particular era, but now those giant puffy numbers look like making a return! The big shoulder/ sleeve combo is certainly runway- and social-media-popular. It’s quite a statement, and slimming, too (oops, not supposed to say that) – the old mutton chop sleeve definitely helps to make the most of the figure. Hot on setting this trend are Sassi Holford, Mia Mia, Katya Katya London and Jesus Piero, who all have their own version of the look.

For me the most romantic sleeve is the classic, long lacey one which exudes elegance, as seen on Kate Middleton, Grace Kelly and recently on Paris Hilton in her Oscar dress, so I would imagine there will be an uptake of that almost traditional bridal look.

Hurrah! Oscar de la Renta does it to perfection, but for those of us not on an A lister’s budget, Justin Alexander and Anne Barge do have beautiful sleeves with fabulous dresses attached.

I do have a bit of a crush on sheer sleeves – they as super romantic, especially with a big cuff. Thank you Ellis Bridals, Kelsey Rose and Rebecca Ingram. Temperley Bridal also has a super-cute, short sheer sleeve that’s lace trimmed and a very flattering shape, as the lace hides and softens those areas that we often don’t choose to show off.

I am a big fan of the floppy, billowing sleeve look, too, perfect for that Boho vibe, being tight at the top and flaring out. This look gives you a chance to show off your jewellery, and your dance moves – by just waving your arms about you can create the illusion of some fancy footwork.

Love these sleeves from Ines Di Santo – she created a great look, a cross between a Spanish dancer and a hippy. Even more on the hippy trail is the fringe sleeve at Kate Fearnley; if

JLM

ELLIS BRIDALS your bride is having a country, barn, or tepee wedding, this dress should be top of her list.

The hardest sleeve look to pull off is, of course, the one sleeve dress. It has to be so perfectly balanced that, in my humble opinion, should be avoided unless the wearer is on the red carpet with hundreds of minders keeping the sleeve in place.

I love the idea of a giant bow that turns into sleeves; Sally Bean has created that bow/sleeve thing that works perfectly for me, while Kate Halfpenny has gone into sleeve overdrive this season, with a stunning collection of detachable, oversized sleeves, great for that one-dress-two looks combo.

Maggie Sottero, Mia Mia and Sottero Midgley also have a very romantic sleeve wardrobe – will we be seeing that in stores soon? Just a little oversized Barbie closet with a selection of sleeves? Somehow detachable sleeves make wearing a strapless dress so much easier.

Kavier Gauche’s new collection is petal inspired, as well as being visually inspired – their jacket with the huge flowery sleeves will bring out the smiles. It works by itself over a slim dress, or plain trousers, perfect for a fashion forward bride who really understands tailoring.

For 70s lovers (with a nod to Ossie Clarke), I love the sleeve on Alan Hannah’s dress – it has the right amount of vintage and modern mix.

Long, plain sleeves work (as illustrated by Megan Markle) for the understated bridal look. Best in crepe, but they have to skim the arm perfectly, no one wants to see a tight creased sleeve.

INES DI SANTO

ALAN HANNAH

Easy to wear and looking stylish is the balloon sleeve at Rasha London. I love the balance of bare back (daring) and big sleeve (modest).

One of the great looks that seem to be hitting the catwalk, is a cape sleeve whether it’s a great big flouncy one, from Hermione de Paula, to little tiny ones like at Lilhi Hod.

Sleeve lexicon 1 Set-in sleeve – attached to the garment’s armhole and sewn all the way around, it is the most common of sleeves. 2 Bell sleeves, or peasant sleeves – this is a long sleeve that’s fitted around the upper arm and flares out to the wrist. 3 Cap sleeves – this one is extremely short and doesn’t go below the armpit. It can be gathered, or float free. 4 Kimono sleeves – are generally used for Chinese-style robes and tend to be in one piece with the garment’s bodice. In a Japanese kimono, the sleeves are usually sewn separately. 5 Raglan sleeves – extend from a

MAGGIE SOTERO

VESTAL

HERMOINE DE PAULA XXXXXXXXXXX TEMPERLEY LONDON

garment’s neckline, rather than from the shoulder, allowing for better movement. 6 Bishop sleeves – these flare out from the shoulder, with volume all the way to the cuff, where the fabric is tightly gathered. 7 Butterfly sleeves – like a bell sleeve, a butterfly sleeve flares out from the shoulder, but it usually does not fully cover the arm. 8 Flutter sleeves – are very similar to a butterfly sleeve but generally a little shorter and wider, falling loosely. 9 Dolman sleeves, or batwing sleeves – have a very deep armhole, and the sleeve gets progressively narrower to the wrist. 10 Puffed sleeves – these are gathered at the shoulder and puffy in the middle. 11 Cape sleeves – no surprise, these full and flowing sleeves look like capes; the fabric is gathered at the shoulder and flares out. 12 Lantern sleeves – here’s a long sleeve that balloons out from a gathered wrist to the elbow. 13 Balloon sleeves – they are long, puffed sleeves that are gathered at the shoulder and again at the wrist. 14 Slit sleeves – also called a ‘cold shoulder’ sleeve, this one has a slit down the centre usually exposing part of the arm. 15 Leg-of-mutton sleeves –gathered and puffed by the shoulder and upper arm and then fitted on the forearm. 16 T-shirt sleeve – it is set-in, starts at the shoulder and ends at the middle of the upper arm. 17 Detachable sleeves – the clue’s in the title!