First Person

Looking back over the past two decades, Laura Daly remembers the days before social media, and the dresses that had something special to say

The other day, while sorting out some clothes, I realised I have a coat that is actually older than some of our youngest staff members, and it dawned on me, not only that I am now officially old, but that Bellissima is nearly as old as Lily, Lizzie, and Nicola, too.

So, yes, 21 years ago, it was all systems go in the Daly household. We were slap bang in the middle of setting up Bellissima Weddings and looking forward to making lots of money. After all, it seemed so simple; buy some dresses, sell some dresses, re-invest in more dresses, and keep the profit – anyone could do it!

All these years later, it transpires that (with the notable exception of the bit about making lots of money), it could indeed eventually be done. That is to say, provided there’s a commitment to hard graft, no holidays for over a decade, neverending expansions, a great deal of help from ever-increasing numbers of staff, and enough fingernails to bite during all the moments of worry about the cash flow.

In 2001, social media was not much more than a twinkle in its creators’ eyes. Websites were, to put it mildly, very basic, and Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest, etc, were yet to be invented. Smart phones were not particularly smart, and you needed a camera if you wanted to take a photograph. “Customer experience”, “journey” and “expectation” were all buzz words waiting in the wings.

We had to rely mainly on the Yellow Pages and bridal fairs to spread the word, and most of the wedding dresses we saw at the twice-yearly Harrogate bridal exhibition, were made in the UK, Europe, the US or beyond, with only a smattering of Chinese imports thrown in for good measure.

Imported beaded gowns from China were only just filtering their way through into to the market, and they very quickly took hold, owing to the cheaper prices and excellent finish. Some of the original beaded gowns we stocked from Benjamin Roberts in those very early days were true works of art that, if made

2001–2022

Bellissima has come of age, and grown up so beautifully. Laura has overseen change after change not only in bridal fashion, but in the attitudes and wants of brides themselves

in the UK, would have cost a fortune. the strapless revolution. Long gone And there we were, able to offer this were the top hats and riding habits of almost couture finish on a gown that the late 80s, and even the large puff would retail at something like £500. sleeves and high necks, confectioned

Chinese manufactured gowns in shiny silk and lace, were firmly on quickly became the saviour of so their way out by the time we saw our many brides-to-be over the following first customer. couple of decades offering, as they In my first year, I’d say that every did, great value other phone call for money, with ‘During her reign, the swag I took was from high fashion someone asking styling and lots detail took on a million whether or not we of beading. Given that guises. Left to right, right to stocked Maggie Sottero (we didn’t the alternative left, straight, at an angle, at the time). The was to have a dressmaker front only, all the way dress they were hoping to find was try to recreate around… you name it, the the one that started the look, which this revolution. It nearly always swag did it!’ was the new kid ended in on the block and disaster, or to buy a plainer dress at came with a matching handbag. a significantly higher price from a UK I had to move quickly and find an or European label, you can see how alternative. quickly the bling took hold! Mori Lee came up trumps with the 5507, and I taught myself how to Arriving at the scene make a matching handbag! A-line, It so happened that Bellissima strapless with a swag or, if you opened her doors just at the start of prefer, drape across the middle, she was perfect, and my little bags were hitting the spot. Then Ellis Bridals made a taffeta version, and in a marketing masterstroke, photographed it as if in a fairytale – and the ‘Princess and the Frog’ dress was born. My phone rang off the hook!

The swag bag

During her reign, the swag detail took on a million guises. Left to right, right to left, straight, at an angle, front only, all the way around... you name it, the swag did it! And, when craftily teamed with a corset back and either a straight or sweetheart neckline, the swag could make every bride’s dreams come true with relative ease.

Nipped-in waists were achieved in seconds; tummies camouflaged, muffin tops were things of the past, and busts were minimised or maximised as required with the pull of a corset and the correct neckline.

Whether it was satin, silk, taffeta, organza, chiffon or even lace, there really was a swag for everyone.

Making a difference

Above, left to right: Bejamin Roberts 930; Hollywood Dreams; Ellis Bridals, the Princess and the Frog; Laura, with one of the many trophies she has been awarded over the years

Thanks to the fact that social media was still not a big thing, brides couldn’t measure quite how popular this style actually was, and we heard: “Oh my god, I love it – it’s so different” time and time again for several years!

Although there were always fitted styles being sold or sought, the trend was definitely leaning towards larger and larger skirts. And, when the swag did eventually die away (may it rest in peace), the strapless bodice was still a firm favourite and could be teamed with a jacket if arms were an issue!

Think big

Alongside the very popular polyester satins and tulle, silk came at a price that meant it was still a viable option, so we saw amazing full-skirted silk gowns appear, with Hollywood Dreams, Ian Stuart, and Dizzie Lizzie just some of the designers who made these styles their own. Coloured silk and satin were the norm for their creations, in glorious pinks, lilacs, blues, golds, and of course, the Hollywood Dreams signature scarlet red –teamed with long red gloves for that extra touch of drama.

Our storeroom and shop rails groaned at the weight of them all, and our seamstresses groaned at the size of them, and the space needed to take up even a hem! Sadly, the era of the over-the-top ballgown came to a dead halt the day the first Big Fat Gypsy

‘Some of the original Wedding was beaded gowns we stocked aired. Literally. To the point from Benjamin Roberts in that we had brides who had those very early days were already ordered true works of art that, if their gowns calling in tears made in the UK, would pleading with us have cost a fortune’ to change their dress as they didn’t want to look like those girls on the telly. Actually, this was probably the first time that our brides had been so influenced by images that they’d

seen outside of wedding magazine adverts, and it opened the floodgates that have not closed since.

During the swagathon years, we had sold a slim-fit silk gown (Benjamin Roberts 930) with more of a ruche than a swag over the tummy and bust area as an alternative, and it had done very well, But now we had a problem.

Silk and taffeta were not only becoming more expensive, but they were also becoming a bit boring to a generation of brides who had seen their peers in nothing else. Cue the arrival of lace…

Social media was now coming into its own and, the minute that models, actresses and these new beings, ‘influencers,’ were photographed in slimmer-fitting red-carpet-worthy lace gowns (filtered to within the proverbial inch, of course) that’s what suddenly became the ‘look’.

And how we embraced it! Slim lace gowns that took up so little space, didn’t show the wrinkles, and were so forgiving. Then they started growing. Lace on lace, with lace trims and lace hems. They got bigger, then they got shorter. They got blinged up, they got lined with colour, lined with sparkle, or left entirely unlined. You name it. They got so technical in their construction that it could take days just to unpick a hem.

Trains have got longer and longer while backs got lower and lower or disappeared altogether. Lace has even merged into boho, and into Cottage Core… Whatever label you wish to put on it, there’ll be a lace dress somewhere with its hand up saying “pick meeee!”

Looking back at these and the other changes in bridal fashion over the years that we’ve been trading, one thing is apparent: the styles of the early days made the Mum happy and the bride feel like her shape had been enhanced, with the ‘good bits’ on show and the ‘bad bits’ hidden.

Nowadays, for the most part, gone are the hang-ups about body image. We no longer say “it’s so flattering” or “look at your tiny waist in that”.

Our customer is more focused on how she feels and the image she has in her head rather than whether or not her bum looks big in this or that. In truth, the correct answer to that particular question nowadays is most probably yes – and, if not, then don’t worry, we can sew some pads in it!

Given that the normal rule of fashion is to repeat key looks on a loop with some minor adjustments, I’m off to source some riding hats now before the rush starts. Tally-ho!

Modern, glamorous and unforgettable... Let us introduce you to the AW 22 collection from Pure Bridal, where all gowns retail below £999. Please contact kerry@romanticaofdevon.co.uk for more information on becoming a stockist.

www.romanticaofdevon.co.uk