Letter from America

Peter Grimes of VOWS magazine, the leading trade title across the pond, looks at busy markets...and those inevitable price increases

The Fall 2022 bridal market season in the US was very active, with boutiques buying deeply and enthusiastically… though they looked warily beyond the current volatility in costs and availability of goods, and the continuing issues of understaffing and over burdened stylists.

All venues, including the round of pop up markets taking place in five US cities during March and April, showed a surprising and welcome buying intensity that was not limited to bridal apparel. Accessories, and prom, bridesmaids and mothers of the wedding apparel categories were also well shopped and pursued. Exhibitors and venues also reported a surge in attendance and excitement by boutique owners preparing to open new businesses, and/or existing boutiques expanding their merchandising into bridal and accessory categories.

Regardless of the category, design was front and centre, whether from an established brand or witnessed in new ‘private label’ bridal collections introduced by prom and special occasion houses.

The trends

For bridal, it was all about lots of lace and sparkle and exaggerated details; clean, modern styles; dramatic and eye-catching necklines; lots of slits (some not so subtle); a variety of hem lengths; stylish suits and jumpsuits; bigger, bolder sleeves, and finely detailed and embellished accessories.

For prom, short dresses with open backs featuring lots of glitz and sparkle, many in iridescent colors, were one very visible trend. In general, the market venues and exhibitors worked diligently to create an exceptional experience for buyers, providing perks such as Instagram-worthy photo booths, some with props or 3D capabilities; informative educational seminars on topics ranging from digital marketing to boutique branding; mini cafes filled with sweet treats and custom cocktails, and knowledgeable reps showcasing gowns and accessories.

In addition to the up-beat enthusiasm of boutique buyers and owners, often expressed as “the joy of being back and conducting business,” there was an undercurrent of exhaustion and concerns of maintaining a high level of boutique brand experience amid the crush of appointments with limited staff.

Selling success

Many reported brisk selling activity and (for many) “record sales” to start the season and preceding market. These reviews were echoed by apparel and accessory exhibitors as they confirmed their own brisk sales while lamenting the added pressures of increasing product and transportation costs, delivery extensions, and the struggle to pass along some of those costs to the boutiques and eventually to the bride.

One intriguing market discussion… rising interest rates, increasing inflation, product cost increases, delivery snafus and worldwide turmoil do not appear to be negatively affecting the bride, her purchasing power, nor her desire for the experience she has been anticipating but unable to attain during the COVID years.

Though product costs were definitely part of lively discussions, they were secondary to questions about deliveries and specific product availability. Buyers appeared to be buying deep in anticipation of hopefully short-term supply chain issues.

And judging from conversations with exhibitors, the price volatility we’ve seen this past six months will continue at least for the remainder of the year as manufacturers will be periodically and continually passing through price increases and transportation surcharges.

Based on market discussions, continued volatility for US based boutiques (and those UK boutiques working with US vendors) appears inevitable and will be upon us sooner than later.

A suggestion

increase your prices now in anticipation of what’s to come.

To be clear, I am not advocating major price increases that take advantage of the circumstances, nor those that appear to gouge brides. It is, however, prudent to reflect on the cost and transportation increases you have already received from your designers/brands, to anticipate additional increases of about the same in the coming months, and to take those steps necessary to avoid the administration headaches that unexpected or unplanned cost increases can create.

In addition to staying ahead of those costs, this is a rare moment in our industry’s history in which there is little-to-no pushback from brides against the cost of their gowns and accessories. They are very well aware of increasing costs of everything they purchase, yet for bridal continue to equate the cost of their gowns with the value of the experience they have in your boutique... regardless if you’re based in the US or UK.

Don’t be hesitant; be proactive. Acting now will help alleviate some of the additional stresses you’re bound to face soon.

To make an appointment to view the new collections, please contact: Michelle Blackburn: 07935 156275 | michelle@casablancabridal.eu