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Legend Cut
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A L T E R N A T I V E · F A S H I O N · L I F E · A N D · S T Y L E S
feature Paper couture fashion Hrustić’s origami-esque dresses life Cardine origami chairs styles Remarkable theatre construct
JAN/FEB 2012 SGD 7.90 USD 5.90 Runaway Magazine Issue Number Zero MITA(P) 000/01/2012 www.runawaymagazine.com
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ROSALIA
www.stellamccartney.com THE SHOPPES AT MARINA BAY SANDS B1-135 TEL: +65 66347350
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Legend Cut
Valley fold
Mountain fold
A L T E R N A T I V E · F A S H I O N · L I F E · A N D · S T Y L E S
feature Paper couture fashion +UXVWLßÂV RULJDPL HVTXH GUHVVHV life &DUGLQH RULJDPL FKDLUV styles 5HPDUNDEOH WKHDWUH FRQVWUXFW
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JAN/FEB 2012 SGD 7.90 USD 5.90 Runaway Magazine Issue Number Zero MITA(P) 000/01/2012 www.runawaymagazine.com
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01111
feature 04 Paper Couture by Alexandra Zaharova & Ilya Plotnikov
fashion 10 Plato Collection by Amila Hrustic
life 12 1 sheet of plastic 2 pairs of velcro 14 Origami
styles 16 Star light star bright
last page 18 Fuss facts
RUNAWAY
in
ORIGAMI
Howdy! 2011 has a been a great year for me running along a challenging timeline. All hyped up for 2012, I am proud to unveil RunAway - a bi-monthly zine which brings you fashion off the runway, alternative living, innovative styles and finds. The zine touches a pretty forbidden yet enticing ground of non-mainstream styles. Curiosity kills the cat. We base each episode on a single fun theme - expect goth, colours, minimalism, slow fashion. Be sure to embrace anything to do with origami in this release. From fashion to architecture to product design, we promise to give your style psyche an enviable creative edge. It is almost impossible to translate into words what the zine is about, you have to read it for yourself. It is not about defiance; it is an attitude, unspoken. It is not impractical; it is radical. Like you, I had fun with the origami starter on the zine cover. It goes along these lines: 01
02
03
Clad in anything under-the-radar and hop on the downtown line. Runaway! Caution: Not for the conformists.
Karen Shan editorial@runawayzine.com
RUNAWAY PEOPLE EDITOR Karen Shan STAFF WRITERS Terry Ong, Diana Wong ART DIRECTOR Nancy Ide PHOTOGRAPHER Anna Ng RUNAWAY is published by Page One Publishing Private Limited. 20 Kaki Bukit View, Kaki Bukit Techpark II, Singapore 415956. Tel: (65) 6742 2088 Fax: (65) 6744 2088. MITA(P) 000/01/2012 ISSN: 0129-1335
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An original idea by Alexandra Zaharova & Ilya Plotnikov from Doberman Studio Haute couture with paper: probably it isn’t the next fashion trend for Spring, but these images deserve a different kind of look. A good montage and a little bit of Photoshop reveal the elevated quality of this material under a fashion perspective.
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T
he fresh weather of Russia is not appropriate for Alexandra Zaharova and Ilya Plotnikov's creations - paper dresses. But with all their haute couture using paper, they hail from Moscow.
Dress decorated with a black bow tie. /
Technical origami Technical origami, also known as origami sekkei, is a field of origami that has developed almost hand-in-hand with the field of mathematical origami. In the early days of origami, development of new designs was largely a mix of trial-and-error, luck and serendipity. With advances in origami maths however, the basic structure of a new origami model can be theoretically plotted out on paper before any actual folding even occurs. This method of origami design was developed by Robert Lang, Meguro Toshiyuki and others, and allows for the creation of extremely complex multi-limbed models such as many-
legged centipedes, human figures with a full complement of fingers and toes, and the like. The main starting point for such technical designs is the crease pattern (often abbreviated as CP), which is essentially the layout of the creases required to form the final model. Although not intended as a substitute for diagrams, folding from crease patterns is starting to gain in popularity, partly because of the challenge of being able to 'crack' the pattern, and also partly because the crease pattern is often the only resource available to fold a given model, should the designer choose not to produce diagrams. Still, there are many cases in which designers wish to sequence the steps of their models but lack the means to design clear diagrams. Such origamists occasionally resort to the Sequenced Crease Pattern (SCP) which is a set of crease patterns showing the creases up to each respective fold. The SCP eliminates the need for diagramming programs or artistic ability while maintaining the step-by-step process for other folders to see. Another name for the Sequenced Crease Pattern is the Progressive Crease Pattern.
transforming the quotidian material... and arrange in something which transpires superiority...
Paradoxically enough, when origami designers create a crease pattern for a new design, the majority of the smaller creases are relatively
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A futuristic dress with pleats and origamic architecture style cut-outs.
\ Impressive clean aesthetic of model, dress and photo combined.
Dresses construction Alexandra Zaharova Photography Ilya Plotnikov Model Emma Watson Style Cathy Kasterine
/
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It is striking how detailed and precise the paper is. /
unimportant and added only towards completion of the crease pattern. What is more important is the allocation of paper regions and how these are mapped to the structure designed. For a specific class of origami bases known as 'uniaxial bases', the pattern of allocations is referred to as the 'circle-packing'. Using optimisation algorithms, a circle-packing figure is computed for any uniaxial base of arbitrary complexity. Once this figure is computed, the creases which are then used to obtain the base structure can be added. This is not a unique mathematical process, hence it is possible for two designs to have the same circle-packing, and yet different crease pattern structures.
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As a circle encloses the minimum amount of area for a given perimeter, circle packing allows for maximum efficiency in terms of paper usage. However, other polygonal shapes can be used to solve the packing problem as well. The use of polygonal shapes other than circles is often motivated by the desire to find easily locatable creases (such as multiples of 22.5 degrees) and hence an easier folding sequence as well. One popular offshoot of the circle packing method is box-pleating, where squares are used instead of circles. As a result, the crease pattern that arises from this method contains only 45 and 90 degree angles, which makes for easier folding.
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Zaharova's paper couture dresses Those minimalists, geometrics and black-and-white dresses reflect the Russian high-standards and solemnity. The two photographers by-passed the fragility of paper, transforming the quotidian material we are used to write and arrange in something which transpires superiority. Removing the dust of the library books and dirt papyrus, they finally reveal the fineness of the paper, placing it at the fashion world. Is it a trend for Spring? Probably not: the functional and ecological issues are obvious (imagine walking along the garden in the dress). For these photographers, who get themselves busy also with conception and post production, this is just another challenge born from interest for the most uncommon projects.
Besides this session photographed on 2012 Spring for a magazine, those specialists work with other kinds of materials, juxtaposing several fabrics, getting several kinds of results: the “Penguin!” classic dresses, also in black-and-white, have nothing with the “Futuris” garish colors, or the “Aristocratic” rural sceneries. They like to experiment new things and each new challenge is an opportunity to generate a transformation on themselves. The Alexandra and Ilya’s photographic quality and also be observed at publicity, even with the inherent conditions of this area. They are behind the lens capture of the IKEA, Apple and Nescafé products; besides, they make part of the Luerzer catalogue for the best 200 photographers of this area. Alexandra Zaharova Alexandra began her career as a graphic designer after completing her education on a faculty of graphic arts. In 2006 to 2008 worked as a creative director of fashion magazine.
From 2006, she started to work as a photographer. She found her own style in making photo sessions with paper dresses which she create by herself. She finds an inspiration in classical, futuristic and gothic styles with their clean and acute formes. Simplicity and monumental in shapes of the dresses is her signature. Ilya Plotnikov At the age of nineteen Ilya started as a 3D artist and retoucher. From 2005 he worked as an advertising photographer. His client list now includes McCann Erickson, Lowe Adventa, BBDO, DDB and Cocoon agencies, plus l’Officiel and InStyle magazines. Over the last two years he was chosen as one of the 200 best advertising photographers worldwide by Lürzer’s Archive.
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fashion
Dresses construction Milan Senic Photography Irfan Redzovic Model Lana Pasic
PLA collection: an assortment of origami-esque dresses made from paper and textiles. DESIGNER AMILA HRUSTIĆ
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fashion
W
hile a lot of us have forgotten the basics of high-school geometry, Sarajevo student-designer Amila Hrustić finds inspiration in the ancient branch of mathematics. "Plato Collection," an assortment of origami-esque dresses made from paper and textiles, is a mass of edges, vertices, and faces, with each dress corresponding to one of the five Platonic solids (the tetrahedron, cube, octahedron,
dodecahedron, icosahedron).
“The garments are made... by hand, without any machines or things that could damage body or nature.”
What culminates is a series of artfully structured forms that are as pleasing to the eye as they are mathematically sublime. Amila Hrustić, a student at the Academy of Fine Arts at the University of Sarajevo, found herself gravitating towards geometry—specifically Platonic solids—during her four years
studying product design. Her love affair with the five platonic solids led to her diploma project, “Plato Collection,” a line of
\ This project examines the concept of geometrically arranged and structured space in relation to the human body.
dresses that embody the forms’ aesthetic beauty and symmetry. Coupled with Hrustić’s use of black-and-white printed patterns, the end result is a dramatic lineup ideal for fashion editorials or the theatrical stage. In the same way that Plato theorised that the five Platonic solids were the building blocks of the universe—earth was associated with the cube, air with the octahedron, and so forth—Hrustić used the same shapes as the basis of her dresses. Constructed from recyclable paper and fabric, the garments are made almost entirely by hand, without, as Hrustić describes it, any “machines or things that could damage body or nature.” The concept of geometry may appear far removed from the world of fashion, but Plato Collection provides us with five direct proof of a correlation that we will not argue with. \ Dodecahedron platonic solid is a basic building element for the little black dress.
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life
1plastic 2velcro sheet of
pairs of
Korean designer Sooin Kim developed this awesome origami chair called Cardine. It is so brilliant because it is formed with only one sheet of plastic and two pieces of Velcro.
K
orean designer Sooin Kim uses the origami concept in chairs. Cardine is a folding chair formed with only one sheet of plastic and two pairs of Velcro. This simple structure requires extremely few resources and energy for manufacturing so it can be an answer for the sustainable future. And the low cost to produce will make it a low price product so anybody who wants to use will be able to have it.
Cardine can be folded to a chair and also be unfolded at any time and place. You can have a chair anywhere and just roll it up when you leave. It is almost weightless. Kids can carry their own chair on picnic so they don’t have sit on dirty grass or dirt. And also, its interesting folding structure (2D to 3D) will give them an inspiring experience. Unfolded Cardine is flat and takes a little space. It is easy to stack and will save space to keep. And its lightness will make you carry tens of them at one time. It will be very useful for some place for seminar or convention. But our question is, how ass friendly can something like this possibly be?
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Genuinely not leather.
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life
ORI GAMI ORIGAMI, from ori meaning "fold", and kami, "paper", is the traditional Japanese art of paper folding.
A
s one of the world’s favorite pastimes, origami offers numerous solutions and ideas in design, fashion, home, and technology. ORIGAMI features innovative origami concepts and products from manufacturers, artists and engineers around the world. These innovators contribute significantly to commerce for they demonstrate that origami is a viable endeavor and worthy of our attention.
Origami green berry teabags from Russia By Nathalia Ponomareva, the teabags is a very creative idea based on the simple principles of origami. The teabag when immersed in water, will gradually expand to reveal the shape of a bird. I bet you wish you could see the amazing process!
Flux Furniture For Flux, form is function. Flux is all about folding: their chairs are made from one single, durable piece of sustainable material designed with curved fold-lines and integrated assembly notches. This folding business is quite clever: it means that each chair collapses into one, easyto-store, envelope-shaped package. But more importantly, it transforms into a stylish design piece, engineered to support the weight of a human being. We like it when things work two ways.
Origami coffee table The "Origami" coffee table by Augusto Mandelli and Walter Selva from Porada features interlocking elements in its base. It has a square glass top and a plywood frame available in a range of stained wood and mattlaquered closed pore finishes. There is also the "Origami Bar" round side table in the series.
Karim Rashid’s origami island kitchen Like the shapes created by the Oriental art of folding paper, Rashid’s new Origami Island kitchen, designed for Amr Helmy Designs, reveals a complex design that is simultaneously elegant and subtle. Made entirely of DuPont™ Corian®, this kitchen was skillfully produced by Egyptian producer Amr Helmy Designs.
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life Clouds by Ronan and Erwan Bouroullec Clouds is a new tile concept designed by Ronan and Erwan Bouroullec, in collaboration with Danish textiles manufacturer Kvadrat. Clouds evolves as you add elements to it, producing a unique threedimensional effect, coating architecture in a fluid yet chaotic way. Inspired by the inviting irregularity of the surface, you construct your own piece and turn your vision into reality. Clouds is available in 2 Kvadrat fabrics, 7 colour combinations and infinite possibilities.
ORI I, the stool origami Playing around with origami, designer Jakub Piotr Kalinowski came up with a cool stool design that leaves no doubt as to its biggest influence. “Use of a bending and cutting method allowed to satisfy main design assumption: simplicity and lost manufacturing costs, by dint of that the mass production is possible,” he says.
Rosenthal A la Carte Origami Set by Robin Platt A la Carte means a free choice from a varied offering. An innovative concept that corresponds to modern tabletop culture is hidden behind this expression for the Rosenthal studio-line: the ability to combine different set elements for an attractive tabletop setting. Six new organically formed porcelain services each comprises three sculpture-like sets that assume the functions of bowls and plates. The design is influenced by the Japanese art of folding paper; Nimbus, Poncho, Scoop, Tatami and Papyrus are both expressive and soft in form and enable users to celebrate new styles over and over again.
Nestlé's Chocolate Museum This is probably the first chocolate museum ever to be called both an origami and a shipping container. The corrugated metal look gives it an air of impermanence and industrial clunk while the bright color and crazy shape evoke play and fun. What any of this has to do with chocolate, we are not exactly sure, but we almost managed to fold a KitKat wrapper to a similar shape.
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With limited resources from its client, Studio Gang devised a plan that allowed Starlight to expand gradually, gracefully.
styles Photography Irfan Redzovic Designer Studio Gang Architects
Star light Star bright
M
oving roofs typically shelter massive sports stadiums, but rarely do they play a leading role in the design of small-scale, outdoor theaters. At the $8.5 million Starlight Theatre in Rockford, Illinois, Chicago architect Jeanne Gang, AIA, incorporated this technology into a relatively inexpensive, yet elegantly sculptural, design in which the drama begins long before the stage doors slide open.
\ Bengt Sjöström Starlight Theater is a theater that has the origami-like roof that can be opened and closed for the performing arts.
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Starlight Theatre, a 36-year-old outdoor community theater in Rock Valley College, wanted to increase the quality and scope of its programmes. But its ticket sales and revenues were limited because it was at the mercy of the weather. Gang and her firm, Studio/Gang O’Donnell (now Studio/Gang Architects), were charged with expanding and improving Starlight’s old home: an amphitheaterlike, concrete bowl with a small stage that seated
styles
600. According to Mike Webb, theatre's director, "We wanted to maintain a tradition of open-air performances, yet we sought new flexibility that would enable us to expand the season and allow performances even when it rained." Like most nonprofits, however, it had big dreams but little money. Gang devised a three-phase plan that allowed Starlight to expand gradually. Phase one expanded the seating bowl to 1,050 seats and created a 18-foot-high concrete structure at the back to house toilet rooms and ticket booths. Gang dematerialized the concrete mass with portholelike windows set in the pattern of constellations. When backlit at night, they provide a marqueelike element of fantasy. The concrete wall also endowed the theater with a sense of procession, forcing patrons to enter from the side and teasing them along rather than revealing the building’s drama all at once. Consisting of a 50-foot-tall, copper-clad fly tower, the addition shelters a full proscenium
stage house and fly equipment that vastly expands Starlight’s ability to display multiple sets. Instead of velvet curtains, the stage has sliding, translucent weather doors adapted from airplane hangers. Because it is indoors, it also doubles as a rehearsal space. The faceted roof consists of triangular, stainless-steel-clad panels supported by steel columns and trusses. The panels on the perimeter are fixed; some fold down to provide a sense of enclosure for the audience, turning ceiling into wall. The real visual drama, however, lies in the center of the roof: With the click of a computer mouse, six panels rise in succession, with one lifting just before the one alongside it. Seen from directly below, the resulting void is, appropriately for the Starlight Theatre, shaped like a star. Gang designed the roof so it could be built offsite, saving on scaffolding costs. Thi also allows remarkably thin steel panels and supporting columns to appear like the underside of an umbrella than a massive bridge pylon.
\ Theater space centered vertical axis to the sky and there is an observatory for the stars.
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Fuss Facts Trivia worth your attention (and excitement). 02
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1/ A fortune teller (also called a cootie chatterbox), is a form of origami used in children's fortunetelling games. A player asks a question, and the fortune teller operator answers using an algorithm to manipulate the fortune teller's shape.
02/ Chronicle Books published a book called Baby-Gami. BabyGami is all about folding blankets around babies. This art form is called swaddling and is well known to mothers world-wide. 03/ Andreia Chaves is a designer who created magnificent work which captured the attention of international media even before her graduation from Polimoda Fashion institute in Italy. The series entitled ‘Invisible Shoe’ was shown in New York in an exhibition organised by Mercedes-Benz in collaboration with designer Herve Leger.It has been launched in Asia were her designs can be found in Beijing Market Comme Des Garcons. 04/ Akira Yoshizawa is considered the Grand Master of modern Origami. He created over 50,000 origami models, invented wet-folding, and developed a method of diagramming origami instructions. Mr. Yoshizawa died in March 2005 at 94.
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06 05/ According to experts beginnings of origami can be traced in the 8th century. Japanese aristocrats of that time noticed creases on paper when folded during wrapping of gifts. The oldest book about origami was published in 1797 as "Hiden Senbazuru Orikata" ("Secret to Folding One-thousand Cranes"). 06/ Located in Seattle's University District, Peace Park is a memorial to Sadako Sasaki. A popular version of the tale is that Sadako folded 644 cranes before she died; her classmates then continued folding cranes in honor of their friend. She was buried with a wreath of 1,000 cranes to honor her dream. 07/ Toilegami (or hotel toilet paper folding) is a common practice performed by hotels worldwide as a way of assuring guests that the bathroom has been cleaned. Elaborate folding is sometimes used, to impress or delight guests with the management's creativity and attention to detail. 08/ In August 1998, a 207 feet origami crane was made in Odate, Akita, Japan. In November 1999, Wings for Peace created the world's largest paper crane: it was over 215 feet wide, and approximately 1750 pounds.
Savvy design for the design savvy.
WALL STICKERS 路 WALL ART www.wallcandyarts.com Marina Square 01-135 Tel: +65 66347355
io r
Flux junior is
ginal flux chair.
ller) durable piece
patent pending
its big sister.
rs:
ibling,
colours.
made in Holland tested and certified
Now kids can flux too.
available colours
available colours
flux junior The flux chair - but then for kids. Flux junior is an identical, mini version of the original flux chair. Which means it still comes in one (smaller) durable piece that flat-packs in the same way as its big sister. Choose from six colours: three that match its older sibling, and three new, child-friendly colours. Visit us Flux Furniture (Singapore) Pte Ltd Showroom/Office (from October 2010) 60 Tampines North Drive 2, Singapore 528764 Store hours open daily (including public holidays) 10am - 11pm Contact us Tel +65 6786 6868 Fax +65 6786 6888 E-mail: info@fluxchairs.com