olive magazine - July 2023 [lg23]

Welcome

July is a month of two mindsets. As summer rolls around I crave excitement on my plate and look to hotter climates to inspire my cooking. So this month’s Pakistani recipes – a fragrant prawn kahari, cumin and peppercorn spiked chicken boti tikka and a refreshing cardamom and saffron kulfi – are winking at me. Enjoy Sumayya Usmani’s excellent guide to Pakistan’s sizzling street food, spit roasts and tandoor smoke on page 72.

But on other days it’s British ingredients that pique my interest. A simple dish of broad beans with a fried egg hits the spot and couldn’t be easier to make – especially if I can persuade someone else to de-pod the beans. Salads are lifted with seasonal produce, too, as in Rosie Birkett’s nectarine and halloumi offering (p92). And luscious cherries, with the added flavours of orange and pomegranate, create a wonderful new take on summer pudding (p22).

Eating outdoors is now on! Book ahead, turn up and support our brilliant alfresco restaurants – we’ve shared our favourites on page 54, and more on Omagazine.com.

COOK THE COVER

Find the recipe on page 22

Cherries are the seasonal star in this new take on a summer pud from senior food editor Nadine Brown. Make it, snap it, share it: post your photos on our socials and we’ll repost the best.

Lulu Grimes, managing editor @Omagazine @lulugrimes

This month I’m…

listening to

Tech, TikTok and the Future of Food Writing

This Food Programme episode on BBC Sounds explores the rising use of apps for advice on which restaurants to visit, and how reviews are often not reviews at all. Choose who you follow carefully – and read O!

eating

Cheat’s maritozzi

I stuff St Pierre mini brioche buns with sweetened whipped cream to make my effortless version of maritozzi. Simply split them almost in half, then fill – and don’t tell anyone. £2.80 for a bag of 10.

The past few years have been tough on the hospitality industry, and our beloved pubs have been hit particularly hard. Our Love Your Local campaign champions these cherished spaces by highlighting places we love and sharing recipes from them in the magazine and online. We’d love to hear about your favourites, too – tag us in your social posts when you’re having a pie or pint and share using the hashtag #Oloveyourlocal. Visit Omagazine.com/love-your-local to find all of our pub content including podcasts, pub guides, reader recs, recipes and advice on how you can support your local.

reading

The South Korean Chefs

Redefining the Art of Pastry

This feature in The New York Times delves into what happens when you marry French-trained Korean pastry chefs with the ingredients they grew up eating, giving rise to truly new and innovative dishes. The pastries they make are also exquisite to look at.

General enquiries: Oweb@immediate.co.uk. For subscription queries please call 03330 162 127 or visit buysubscriptions.com/contact

DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLING: HANNAH WILKINSON. FOOD STYLING: LIBBY SILBERMANN

inspiration

7 What’s new for July Three restaurants not to be missed, knives worth investing in whatever your budget, and a lamb and anchovy crumpet from Ploussard.

cook

14 Fuss-free menus for easy entertaining.

19 Cook with the season Dishes to celebrate beetroots, cherries, runner beans and samphire.

28 Plant power Richard Makin shares his vegan twists on favourites, from koftas to a custard slice.

38 Three ways with olive oil This storecupboard staple becomes the star of the show.

44 Eat well everyday Spice up your weekday menu with these easy dishes.

51 Cook a classic Try making these crowdpleasing vegan tacos.

discover

54 Sunshine in every bite The best alfresco dining spots to enjoy the summer sun.

60 Signature dish The eponymous recipe from Mayfair’s luxe French restaurant, Socca.

64 Pro vs punter Critic KS Tong and an O reader try out Korean barbecue at Chung’dam in Soho, London.

66 Need to know Gurdeep Loyal on the Swedish foodie hotspot to visit, a chocolate dessert classic and his recipe for spicy pinto bean dip.

68 The Measure Drinks to enjoy in the sunshine, an elegant whisky cocktail and vintage cider.

71 Wine Learn to pair your wine like a professional.

72 Cook like a local Get to know the diverse flavours of Pakistani cuisine.

76 10 things you need to know about Indonesia Rahel Stephanie on the unique food and cooking of her home country.

unwind

80 Weekend menu A celebration of local British ingredients from The Greyhound in Beaconsfield.

84 Kitchens to covet Kwoklyn Wan walks us through his family kitchen renovation that began as his parents’ restaurant.

90 Bolthole Experience the intimate atmosphere at Glenmorangie House in Scotland.

92 Kitchen therapy with Rosie Birkett Rosie combines savoury halloumi with sweet nectarines for a special summer salad.

97 Show off Patience is a virtue with this fluffy croissant-style laminated bread.

& don’t miss

18 Subscribe today Save 40% and get a free copy of Melissa Hemsley’s Feel Good.

70 Reader offer £10 off a top-notch Cooks Professional food processor and accessories.

75 Coming next month

A sneak peek at our August issue.

78 Reader offer Save on a vibrant citrus tree collection from YouGarden.

Starters, snacks, drinks and sides

Vegetables

28 Beluga dhal with quick kachumber

41 Confit fennel with Puy lentils

24 Herby broad beans with fried eggs

34 King oyster mushroom yakitori

92 Nectarine and chilli maple halloumi quinoa salad

27 Pickled cherry, feta and bitterleaf salad

30 Quick kofta flatbreads

47 Spiced squash and Puy lentil salad

20 Swiss chard and tofu yellow curry

51 Vegan tacos

Breakfast, brunch, baking and puddings

22 Cherry labneh summer pudding

Mains

82 Limoncello posset

43 Olive oil stracciatella ice cream

38 Peach and basil focaccia

74 Street-side kulfi

16 Tinto de verano granita

36 Vanilla custard slice

97 Warm laminated milk bread

48 Za’atar potato hash with baked eggs

Kwoklyn

hold an afternoon tea this august

Whether it’s cake in the garden with your friends and family, or a picnic in the park with everyone you know, get together this August to raise money for people affected by breast cancer.

People with breast cancer need you. And they need you now. Help raise vital funds for world-class breast cancer research and life-changing support.

Scan to order your kit

Sign up to get your Afternoon Tea fundraising kit today, visit breastcancernow.org/cuppa

July INSPIRATION

This month’s on-the-radar restaurants, goodies to adorn your kitchen shelf, and a must-make crumpet topped with slow-cooked lamb and puffed barley from London’s Ploussard

Trendspotting

SOFT SERVE ICE CREAM

Cool creative flavours and palatepleasing toppings are the frozen dessert of choice this summer. Not easy to recreate at home, these cones, cups and dishes topped with soft vertiginous swirls are best eaten from the source and include flavours such as buckwheat, lemon and basil or coconut and hibiscus @soft_n_swirly, inji-puli (tamarind and ginger) at Sri Lankan restaurant Rambutan or pain au chocolat and mandarin @bakestreetdn. This almond and dill topped with crunchy almonds from Tom Sellers @story_cellar ratchets up the flavour with a savoury edge.

3 MUST-VISIT RESTAURANTS make a reservation

ROCKINGHAM FORGE EQUILIBRIUM

This knife performed far beyond its price point, and is a great for efficiently chopping ingredients with a rocking chop. Although slightly restrictive for fine work with the tip of the knife, the curved blade means you can also brunoise and mince with ease, as we did during testing. Harts of Stur (£19)

BUDGET VS BLOWOUT

Buy the best, whatever your budget

this month, chef’s knives

MIYABI

5000 MC D67

An ergonomic, black ash handle and Damascus-patterned blade make this attractive knife a real treat to behold. The blade is nimble and ultra-sharp, and it is lightweight and comfortable to use. Zwilling (£479)

Just opened THE ABBEY INN, NORTH YORKSHIRE

Tommy Banks and his team have just opened a refurbished 19th century inn minutes away from The Black Swan. Produce comes from the Oldstead plot down the road and is used in smoked baby beetroot with ewe’s curd, Dexter chuck brisket and short rib Byland burger, and carrot and chicory tiramisu. Relax by the fire or in the garden. abbeyinnbyland.co.uk

Revisiting CHALK, WEST SUSSEX

Tom Kemble has taken the helm at Wiston Estate’s sustainable restaurant, bringing with him experience from Bonhams, Hedone and Fäviken in Sweden. He uses ingredients from the walled garden in braised lamb with juniper smoked potatoes and asparagus with smoked cod’s roe. Pair with the estate’s wines in the converted 18th century threshing barn or on the terrace. wistonestate.com

Coming soon

LITTLE KUDU, PECKHAM

Husband and wife team Patrick Williams and Amy Corbin will launch their third restaurant later this month in a Queen’s Road railway arch. Signature cocktails and South African wines will accompany a menu of tapas-style plates inspired by Patrick’s South African roots. Think Little Kudu loaf with Cape Malay butter and ham hock terrine with biltong scratchings. kuducollective.com

Ploussard’s lamb and anchovy crumpet

SERVES 4 | PREP 30 MINS

COOK 5 HRS 10 MINS | EASY

4 crumpets

1 heaped tbsp of capers, finely chopped handful of chives, finely chopped

LAMB

800g bone-in half lamb shoulder

1 tbsp vegetable oil

250ml white wine

1 onion, halved

4 rosemary sprigs

ANCHOVY EMULSION

50g tinned anchovies, drained

1 garlic clove, finely grated

½ tsp red wine vinegar

30ml vegetable oil

PUFFED BARLEY

25g pearl barley, rinsed

40ml vegetable oil

1 Heat the oven to 160C/140C fan/gas 3 and season the lamb well. Heat the oil in a large, deep, ovenproof pan over a medium-high heat and brown the lamb on all sides. Pour in the wine and bring to the boil, then add the onion and three of the rosemary sprigs.

2 Cover the pan with a sheet of baking paper followed by a sheet of foil, then transfer to the oven and bake for 2 hrs-2 hrs 30 mins or until the meat falls off the bone. Cool, then remove the lamb from the pan, setting aside the stock. Pick the meat off the bone and season again, then finely chop the remaining rosemary sprig and stir it through the lamb. Shape the meat into patties that are about the same width as the crumpets. Chill until needed.

3 For the emulsion, put the anchovies, garlic, vinegar and 1 tsp of water in a food processor, and blitz until smooth. With the motor running, slowly drizzle in the oil until everything is incorporated and emulsified – it should be the consistency of mayonnaise.

4 Heat the oven to 110C/90C fan/gas 1/2. Tip the pearl barley into a pan and cover with cold water. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer and cook until very soft – it should be overcooked. Drain, rinse under cold running water, drain again, then spread out over a baking tray lined with baking paper. Bake for 2 hrs-2 hrs 30 mins, stirring occasionally, until dried out. Heat the oil in a pan over a mediumhigh heat and fry the pearl barley in batches until puffed up (this will take a few seconds). Remove to kitchen paper to drain using a slotted spoon.

5 Put the lamb patties on a baking tray with a small ladle of the reserved stock, and cook at 210C/190C fan/gas 7 for 10 mins. Toast the crumpets, cool slightly, then spread over the anchovy emulsion and top with the lamb, puffed barley, capers and chives.

PER SERVING 707 kcals | fat 47.6G saturates 13.5G | carbs 27.2G | sugars 5.2G fibre 2.3G | protein 31.5G | salt 2.6G

CRAVING

If any recipe is destined to go viral, it’s this one from Clapham’s Ploussard. Slow-cooked lamb, an umami-rich anchovy emulsion and crisp barley for added crunch – this will make you rethink topping crumpets with just butter. We’ve made the recipe even easier by using shop-bought crumpets. ploussardlondon.co.uk

WHAT ARE YOU CRAVING?

Share your favourite eats by email at Oweb@immediate.co.uk and on social media using #Ocraving.

LIGA HOMEWARE

LIGA’s collection of sealife-inspired homewares features fish, crustaceans and ocean motifs on sustainable cork pieces, perfect for summer alfresco dining. The cork is grown in Portugal in the Montado forests where the eco-friendly process enables the products to be made without the need for felling trees and without interfering with the delicate ecosystems. Placemats £7/coasters £3.50, loveliga.com

GRAVADLAX COLLECTION BY H FORMAN & SON

Grade one Scottish salmon with a selection of three different cures: Swedish with dill and star anise, Russian with beetroot, and Japanese with wasabi and ginger. Mix and match for a celebration starter for a crowd. £59.95 (480g), shop.Omagazine.com

ERBOLOGY LION’S MANE MUSHROOM POWDER

Functional foods are having a moment – this organic mushroom powder promises to help manage stress, balance mood and support a healthy nervous system. Stir into hot chocolate or sprinkle on cereal for a daily boost. £24.99 (50 servings), erbology.co

KITCHEN SHELF

drink and homewares

JUDE’S SALTED CARAMEL COLLECTION

Jude’s signature silky salted caramel ice cream is combined with crunchy caramel pieces or rippled with rich dark chocolate in easy-to-devour mini pots. £5 for four, Sainsbury’s

AVANTCHA SPECIALITY TEAS

These organic leaf, fruit and herb teas are made from real essences, herbs, fruits and flowers, and have a beautiful clarity of flavour. Prices vary, avantcha.com

HECK SMOKED BACON

Elevate your weekend fry-up with this smoky, slightly sweet bacon – now made without nitrates. From £3.20 (210g), Tesco

GODMINSTER VINTAGE BRUTON BEAUTY

Tangy, creamy and with a hint of sweetness, this organic cheese from the award-winning cheddar producer is an after-dinner star. From £6 (200g), Waitrose and ocado.com

BANHOEK COMPANY CHILLI OIL

Made in small batches in Banhoek Valley in South Africa, the clean flavour comes from carefully infusing rapeseed oil with dried chillies. Great drizzled on pizza or used to dress noodles. £8.50/ 250ml, ocado.com

This month’s must-buy food,

cook

An effortless three-course lunch for a sunny weekend get-together, fun and inventive vegan dishes that will appeal to everyone, and easy, nourishing midweek dinners with a spicy kick

On the menu

Fried stuffed vine leaves with dill cream

Flatbread meze pizzas

Tinto de verano granita

Easy on the eye and simple to make, thanks to shop-bought ingredients and no fiddly techniques. These recipes can be made ahead or require 30 minutes or fewer of prep – they’re go-to ideas for entertaining special guests

Fried stuffed vine leaves with dill cream

SERVES 4 | PREP 5 MINS | COOK 5-10 MINS | EASY | V GF

Mix 75g of mascarpone, 4 tbsp of double cream and 1 tsp of finely chopped dill or Seggiano semi-fresh dill. Drain a jar or tin of stuffed vine leaves – you will need 8-10. Heat 2 tbsp of olive oil in a heavy pan over a medium heat. Squash each stuffed vine leaf to flatten it and make it burst a little, add to the hot oil and fry for a couple of minutes or until a little crisp, then turn over and fry the other side. Leave in the pan until ready to eat, then warm gently, add some spoonfuls of the dill cream, scatter with chopped flat-leaf parsley and 2 tbsp of toasted pine nuts. Serve with some bread for mopping up and the remaining dill cream.

PER SERVING 414 kcals | fat 37.1G

saturates 16.7G | carbs 12.9G | sugars 3G fibre 3.5G | protein 5.3G | salt 1.1G

s

Visit the O shop and discover lots of goodies that make entertaining easier, including Cooks & Co vine leaves stuffed with rice – an easy, fuss-free snack for guests, or perfect used in the recipe above. shop.Omagazine.com

Use a nice-looking hob-to-table pan with a board underneath to make the starter – it both looks good and saves on the washing-up

Tinto de verano granita

Tinto de verano means ‘summer red wine’ – sangria-like but much easier to make. Here it’s frozen into a granita or slushie and doubles as a post-lunch drink.

SERVES 4 | PREP 5 MINS PLUS FREEZING | EASY | GF

Mix 500ml of red wine (chose one lower in tannins with a softer mouthfeel), 375ml of lemonade, 125ml of soda water and a good squeeze of lime juice

If you have a high-powered blender, freeze the mixture in ice cubes and then throw the lot in the blender just before serving. Alternatively, pour into a freezer box, freeze for 2 hrs, then use a fork to stir through the ice crystals and freeze again for 2 hrs, stirring again as before. Repeat until you have a slushy mixture of ice grains, then freeze until needed. When ready to serve, scrape up the ice crystals with a fork and stir. To serve, load the icy mixture into four chilled glasses. Serve with a wheel of lemon or lime to garnish.

PER SERVING 116 kcals | fat 0G

saturates 0G | carbs 5.4G | sugars 5.4G fibre 0G | protein 0.2G | salt 0.1G

tip

If you have an ice cream machine you can churn the mixture until slushy and scoop it straight into the glasses.

Flatbread meze pizzas

We don’t really need an excuse to eat mortadella but, if you need one, then this is it.

SERVES 4 | PREP 5 MINS | COOK

15 MINS | EASY

Lay 4 thick flatbreads (choose ones that look like a big round naan rather than wraps) and spread each with 1-2 tbsp of green olive paste or something similar from a meze range – red or green pesto would also work. Divide 300g of firm-ish ricotta cheese (if your ricotta is wet then drain it first in a fine-mesh sieve) between the flatbreads, crumbling it all over the tops. Drizzle with good olive oil and season well. Bake for 10 mins in an oven heated to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Lay two whole slices of mortadella onto each flatbread, scrunching the pieces gently to fit them side by side. Return to the oven for 5 mins. Halve and fold to eat.

PER SERVING 483 kcals | fat 27.3G

saturates 10.2G | carbs 39.5G | sugars 3.4G fibre 3.2G | protein 18.3G | salt 1.2G

tip

You can use slices of parma (or other) ham for this if you prefer. Mortadella is more luscious, so if you swap the meat you might want to add a drizzle of olive oil.

the season

July provides a bounty of fresh ingredients that are at their best in these summer recipes

In season this month

beetroots

blackberries

broad beans beans

cherries

raspberries

runner beans runner

samphire

swiss chard swiss

Swiss chard and smoked haddock eggs en cocotte

SERVES 2 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 35 MINS | EASY | GF

200g smoked haddock fillets (preferably undyed)

½ tbsp unsalted butter

200g swiss chard, washed and chopped grating of nutmeg

2 eggs

2 spring onions, finely chopped

150ml double cream

20g parmesan, finely grated toasted sourdough or rustic bread, to serve

1 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Put the fish into a tiered steamer and steam for 10 mins until cooked through and flaky when pressed. Heat the butter in a frying pan until foaming, then fry the chard for 5-6 mins or until wilted. Season with salt, pepper and a grating of nutmeg.

2 Flake the fish into chunky pieces, then divide between two individual-serve ovenproof dishes. Add the chard to the dishes, then crack an egg over each. Scatter over the spring onions, pour in the cream, season lightly with salt, and plenty of black pepper, then scatter with the parmesan. Bake for 15-20 mins or until the egg whites have set but the yolks are still runny. Serve with toasts for dunking.

PER SERVING 613 kcals | fat 51.9G

saturates 30.5G | carbs 4.4G | sugars 2.3G fibre 0.3G | protein 31.9G | salt 2.1G

Swiss chard and tofu yellow curry

SERVES 4-6 | PREP 20 MINS | COOK 20 MINS | EASY | LC

4 tbsp rapeseed oil

396g block of extra-firm tofu, drained and cut into 1cm cubes

1 lemongrass stalk

1 red onion, thinly sliced

2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

10g ginger, peeled and grated

2 tbsp thai yellow curry paste

1 red pepper, deseeded and finely sliced

200g rainbow chard or chard, stems cut into 4cm pieces, leaves shredded

400ml coconut milk

250ml vegetable stock

1 tbsp lime juice

1 tsp tamari

large pinch of brown sugar

few thai basil leaves, torn, plus smaller leaves to garnish steamed rice to serve

1 Heat 2 tbsp of the oil in a large non-stick frying pan over a medium-high heat. Season the tofu with salt, then cook in the pan in a single layer, turning every so often, for 6-8 mins or until all sides are golden. Transfer to a plate lined with kitchen paper and season again lightly.

2 Gently bruise the lemongrass using a heavy pan. Separate and reserve the green root and finely chop the remaining stalk. Heat the remaining oil in the same pan over a medium-high heat. Cook the chopped lemongrass, onion, garlic and ginger with a pinch of salt for 4-5 mins or until softened. Stir in the curry paste and cook for 1 min until darkened, then add the peppers and chard stems, coating in the mixture. Reserve 1-2 tbsp of the coconut milk and add the rest to the pan with the stock and lemongrass root. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 5 mins until the veggies are tender.

3 Add the tofu and chard leaves. Simmer until the tofu is warmed through and the leaves have wilted. Remove from the heat and stir in the lime juice, tamari, sugar and torn basil. Drizzle the remaining coconut milk over the top and serve with steamed rice.

PER SERVING (6) 307 kcals | fat 24.6G saturates 11.1G | carbs 8.6G | sugars 5.5G fibre 3.3G | protein 11.1G | salt 0.6G

Swiss chard

Don’t be afraid to mix it up with chard and go for different colours – there’s next to no difference in taste, though ruby chard with its rich red stalks is slightly stronger in flavour.

Cherry labneh summer pudding

This makes more labneh than you will need – use as part of a salad spread or smear on toast or inside a hearty sandwich. You will need a 20cm wide, 11-12cm deep domed mixing bowl for this recipe.

SERVES 8 | PREP 35 MINS PLUS OVERNIGHT STRAINING AND CHILLING | COOK 10 MINS | MORE EFFORT

700g greek yogurt

800g pitted or frozen cherries

few strips of orange zest

1 vanilla pod

70g caster sugar

250ml double cream

2 tbsp wildflower honey

1 tsp orange blossom water

12 slices of brioche, crusts removed

200ml pomegranate juice

3 tsp arrowroot powder mixed with 3 tsp of cold water double cream, to serve

1 Making your own labneh is easy, you just need to strain some yogurt for 4-6 hrs or overnight. Mix the yogurt with a pinch of salt, tip it into a piece of muslin or a very fine sieve and let any liquid slowly drain out of it into a bowl. If you are using muslin you can help this along by folding the muslin up around the yogurt and twisting the top to squeeze out the moisture. The salty whey left behind can be used as a stock for soups or stews, or in baking.

2 Combine the cherries, orange zest, vanilla pod and sugar in a pan and bring to a gentle simmer over a medium heat, cooking for 6-8 mins or until the cherries start to soften and release their juices. Tip into a sieve set over a bowl and leave to cool completely.

3 Beat together the cream, honey and orange blossom water until they form very soft peaks. Add 250g of the labneh and gently fold through until just combined. Discard the orange peel and vanilla bean from the cherries, firmly pressing out any extra cherry juice, setting the juice aside. Roughly chop 350g of the cherries, then fold into the cream mixture.

4 Line the domed mixing bowl with clingfilm, leaving enough to hang over the sides. Set aside 200ml of the cherry juice for use later. Dip a brioche slice into the remaining juice and use to layer the bottom of the bowl – you might need to tear beforehand to fit neatly. Add a little less than a third of the cream-cherry mixture, using a palette knife or spatula to level out. Repeat with the brioche, tearing and dipping before layering with the cream mixture. If you need a little more cherry juice, take a few extra tbsp from the reserved juice. You should have three layers of the cream mixture, finishing with a final fourth layer of soaked brioche. Lay the overhanging clingfilm over the top, then put a plate on top. Rest a heavy tin on top of the plate to weight it down, then chill for at least 4 hrs.

5 Combine the remaining cherry juice with an equal amount of pomegranate juice. Gently heat in a small pan, add 2 tsp of the arrowroot mixture and boil, whisking continuously, until thickened – it should be thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. If it’s still a little thin, add a drop or more of the arrowroot, stirring continuously, until you have a thickened, glossy sauce. Leave to cool.

6 Before serving, invert the pudding onto a large plate, removing the clingfilm. Pour over the reserved sauce and serve with lashings of cream and the left-over cherries.

PER SERVING 689 kcals | fat 34.5G saturates 21.6G | carbs 82.3G | sugars 39.8G fibre 3.3G | protein 10.8G | salt 1.1G

Cherries

No cherry pitter, no problem. Put a small metal piping nozzle on a board, press the cherry on top slowly and the pip will pop out of the top.

Herby broad beans with fried eggs

SERVES 2 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 10 MINS | EASY | LC GF

40ml olive oil, plus 1 tbsp 1 small shallot, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced ½ tsp pul biber, plus extra to garnish 300g fresh or frozen broad beans (double podded if fresh) small handful of finely chopped herbs (we used dill, parsley and mint) juice of ½ a lemon

2 eggs

60g feta, crumbled

1 Gently heat 40ml of oil, the shallot and garlic with a large pinch of salt in a frying pan for 6-8 mins or until softened and fragrant. Sprinkle over the pul biber then add the beans, gently heating through for 2-3 mins. Add the herbs and cook for a further 1 min before removing from the heat and adding the lemon juice. Stir through and season to taste, adding a squeeze more lemon juice if needed.

2 Meanwhile, heat the remaining oil in a large frying pan. Once hot, fry the eggs to your desired crispiness, making sure the white is cooked through and the yolk is still runny.

3 Toss most of the feta through the beans, then divide between two plates. Top with the eggs, remaining feta, a fresh crack of black pepper and an extra pinch of pul biber.

Broad beans

It might not be the most fun kitchen job but double podding broad beans is essential to avoid the leathery texture after removing them from the main pod. Simply blanch the beans, drain and cool, then slit the leathery skin, popping out the bright green bean.

Beetroot tartare and ricotta toasts

MAKES 10 | PREP 30 MINS | COOK 1 HR 30 MINS | EASY | V

250g beetroots

1 tsp white miso

½ tsp wholegrain mustard

½ tsp dijon mustard

½ tsp red wine vinegar

½ tsp worcestershire sauce

few shakes of Tabasco

1 small shallot, minced

1 garlic clove, minced

3 cornichons, very finely diced

1 tsp capers, finely chopped

2 tbsp finely chopped flat-leaf parsley

2 tsp finely chopped chives

2 tsp finely chopped dill, plus extra to garnish

180g ricotta

1 tbsp creamed horseradish, plus 1 tsp

5 slices grainy rye bread, lightly toasted (we used Biona Organic rye bread with sunflower seeds)

1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Trim the beetroots of any leaves and stems. Scrub the beetroot bulbs and wrap loosely in foil – if they are large, wrap individually. Put on a rimmed baking tray and roast for 1 hr 30 mins until tender –a sharp knife should pierce them easily.

2 Once the beetroot is roasted, cool slightly before using kitchen paper to rub off the skins. Finely chop the beetroots –they don’t have to be perfectly diced but you don’t want it to be chunky, and keep them as evenly chopped as possible. Combine the miso with 2 tsp of hot water in a small bowl, then stir in the mustards, vinegar, worcestershire sauce and Tabasco. While the beetroot is still warm, combine with the mustard mixture and all the other ingredients, bar the ricotta, horseradish and bread. Season and leave to sit for 30 mins or until completely cool and the beetroot has marinated.

3 Combine the ricotta with the horseradish. Cut the bread into halves, spread over the ricotta and top with spoonfuls of the beetroot. Garnish with dill and serve.

PER SERVING 112 kcals | fat 2.8G saturates 1.4G | carbs 15.5G | sugars 3.9G fibre 4.5G | protein 4G | salt 0.7G

Beetroot

Earthy, rich and sweet, despite its deep red colour and bulbous shape, beetroot is related to spinach and chard, and is just as nutritious.

GET CREATIVE!

Simple recipes, classic ingredients, new flavours – time to get cooking

BEETROOT TOP PESTO (MAKES 200G)

In a food processor, blitz the tops of a bunch of beetroots (you’ll need about 80g, so add in some herbs such as flat-leaf parsley if need be), 50g of toasted nuts (walnuts work well, though pistachios and traditional pine nuts will, too), 2 garlic cloves and 30g of grated parmesan While processing, drizzle in enough olive oil to create a loose pesto-like consistency. Squeeze in some lemon juice for some freshness and season to taste.

PICKLED CHERRY, FETA AND BITTERLEAF SALAD (SERVES 2)

Combine 200ml of red wine vinegar, 75g of light brown sugar, 1 bay leaf, a few thyme sprigs, 1 tsp of whole black peppercorns and a large pinch of salt in a pan with 200ml of water. Gently simmer, stirring to dissolve the sugar, then bring to the boil. Pack 500g of pitted cherries into a sterilised jar and pour in the liquid. Seal the jar and leave to cool for at least two to three days. Combine 2 tbsp of the pickling juices with 40ml of extra-virgin olive oil and 1 tbsp of runny honey, then season. Arrange 300g of bitter salad leaves (such as rocket, watercress, radicchio) on a platter. Crumble over 100g of feta, a few spoonfuls of the cherries and a good drizzle of the dressing.

ROAST GARLIC BROAD BEAN DIP (SERVES 4)

Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Slice a little off the top of a garlic bulb, drizzle with a little olive oil and season. Wrap in foil and roast for 45 mins until softened. Squeeze the soft garlic cloves into a food processor. Add 400g of double podded broad beans, the juice and zest of ½ a lemon, 4 tbsp natural yogurt and some chopped dill with some seasoning. Blitz until smooth, adding a little water to loosen if it’s too thick. Serve with crusty bread and crudités

SALT AND VINEGAR RAINBOW CHARD CRISPS (SERVES 2)

Remove the stalks and ribs from 10 large chard leaves and tear into large pieces. Combine 1½ tbsp of cider vinegar with 1 tbsp of olive oil and drizzle over the leaves. Toss to coat, then sprinkle over a healthy pinch of salt and toss to coat again. Arrange on two large lined baking trays and bake in a 160C/140C fan/gas 3 oven for 10 mins, turning halfway through, until crispy.

PLANT POWER!

Vegan food that everyone can get excited about – mix things up with these fun, quirky recipes from Richard Makin

BELUGA DHAL WITH QUICK KACHUMBER

When you get in line at the DMV (Department for Managing Vegans) to apply for your vegan card, the first thing they ask you is, what’s your dhal recipe? That’s because dhal is one of the most fundamental aspects of being a vegan and it’s your legal duty to commit a recipe to memory. This is my go-to, which you’re welcome to use in any DMV emergency. I use canned Beluga lentils because they hold their shape better than most, so the final product still has some bite.

SERVES 4 | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 20 MINS

EASY | GF

1 tbsp vegan butter

1/2 tsp black mustard seeds

1 small onion, finely chopped

5cm piece of ginger, peeled and finely chopped

6 garlic cloves, crushed or finely grated

1/2 tsp chilli powder

1 tsp garam masala

4 tbsp tomato purée

2 x 400g tins of Beluga lentils, drained

1 long shallot, very finely chopped

1/4 cucumber, very finely chopped

small bunch of mint, leaves only, finely chopped

small bunch of coriander, leaves only, finely chopped

1 tbsp lime juice

60g coconut cream

1 Melt the butter in a medium pan over a medium heat. Once hot, fry the mustard seeds for 30 seconds. Add the onion and fry until soft without letting it brown.

2 Add the ginger, garlic, chilli, garam masala and tomato purée. Stir well and fry for 2 mins. Add the lentils along with 400ml of water. Bring to a simmer, then allow to bubble for 15 mins.

3 Meanwhile, make the kachumber by combining the shallot, cucumber, mint, coriander and lime juice.

4 Once the dhal is reduced and glossy, remove it from the heat. Serve in warmed bowls, swirling through the coconut cream and topping with a few tablespoons of kachumber.

PER SERVING 225 kcals | fat 9.5G

saturates 6.4G | carbs 20.3G | sugars 5G fibre 7.7G | protein 10.8G | salt 0.2G

QUICK KOFTA FLATBREADS

Aaaa! I’ve gone temporarily dizzy from all the new vegan meat options at my supermarket. The choice of what to cook is staggering: call an ambulance! While I’m waiting for it to arrive, I’ve thought of something fun to do with this packet of vegan mince I appear to be clutching. How about shaping it into dinky little koftas, packed full of herbs and spices which makes them ideal for stuffing into flatbreads or pittas? Cancel that ambulance, I’m suddenly feeling much better.

SERVES 4 | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 15 MINS EASY |

KOFTA

430g soft vegan mince (see note, below)

1/2 onion, finely chopped

4 tbsp finely chopped parsley leaves

4 tbsp finely chopped coriander leaves

2 tbsp finely chopped mint leaves

1 tsp paprika

2 tsp garam masala

1 tbsp harissa paste

50g currants

olive oil, for grilling

TO SERVE

4 flatbreads or pittas

vegan mayo

1/2 cucumber, roughly chopped

handful of cherry tomatoes, roughly chopped

finely chopped parsley leaves

1 red onion, finely chopped

handful of shredded cabbage

2 tsp pomegranate molasses

1/2 lemon

1 red chilli, sliced (optional)

CHOOSING THE RIGHT MINCE

1 To make the kofta, use your hands to combine all the ingredients except the olive oil in a bowl, and season well. Squeeze the mince through your fingers to make sure it has completely broken apart and the herbs and spices are evenly distributed.

2 Form the kofta into small sausages with tapered ends and thread a skewer through the centre of each (or stack two on each skewer if you prefer).

3 Heat the grill to maximum. Brush the kofta with a little olive oil and put on a tray under the grill for 10 mins, rotating occasionally to make sure all the sides are browned. Remove from the grill.

4 Gently warm the flatbreads under the grill but don’t let them brown or crisp up. Top each flatbread with a generous spoon of mayo, the cucumber, tomatoes, parsley, red onion and cabbage.

5 Top the flatbreads with the kofta, then drizzle with the pomegranate molasses and a squeeze of lemon juice before serving with the sliced chilli on the side, if you like.

PER SERVING 569 kcals | fat 15.1G saturates 1.3G | carbs 64.5G | sugars 19.1G fibre 11.6G | protein 38.1G | salt 2G

For this recipe, use the vegan mince which comes refrigerated and resembles a block of minced beef. This works best here (rather than frozen or dried vegan mince) because it holds together and firms up when cooked, so you get a much more satisfyingly meaty bite to the final dish. If you can’t find any mince like this, you can simply use vegan burgers instead, they’re made from the same stuff.

CAULIFLOWER CHEESE CROQUETTES

Whatever your trauma is around cauliflower cheese, I’m here to fix it with a nice portion of deep-fried exposure therapy. Yes, I too had some dark experiences with cauliflower in the 1990s but the therapy is working and I haven’t had a flashback in months. These crispy boys are an entirely different experience to the sloppy casseroles and bakes of yesteryear, and are guaranteed to create a cauliflower fan out of anyone.

MAKES 15–20 | PREP 20 MINS PLUS FREEZING COOK 20 MINS | EASY |

FILLING

1 large cauliflower, broken into florets

150ml soy milk

3 tbsp tapioca flour

4 tbsp nutritional yeast

1 tbsp english mustard

1 tbsp white miso paste

55g vegan butter

4 tbsp plain flour

3 spring onions, finely chopped, plus extra to serve

COATING

200g plain flour

150ml soy milk

100g golden breadcrumbs

2 tbsp nutritional yeast vegetable oil, for deep-frying

1 To make the filling, bring a large pan of water to the boil and cook the florets for 5-10 mins or until tender. Drain and set aside to cool.

2 Once cool enough to handle, chop half of the florets into rough chunks and put in a large bowl. Using the coarse holes of a box grater, grate the remaining florets into the same bowl. Transfer the cauliflower to a nut milk bag and squeeze out as much water as you can manage. If you don’t have a nut milk bag, transfer to a sieve and use a spoon to push out the moisture.

3 Put the soy milk, tapioca, yeast, mustard, miso, 1/2 tsp of salt and 1/4 tsp of pepper in a blender. Whizz until smooth, then cover and set aside.

4 Melt the butter in a medium pan over a medium heat. Whisk in the flour and allow to cook, constantly whisking, for 1 min, then slowly pour in the blended

soy milk mixture. While whisking, cook the mixture until dramatically thickened and stringy. Remove from the heat and stir in the cauliflower and spring onions. Transfer the mixture to a baking tray and spread out evenly. Leave to cool completely to room temperature.

5 Once cooled, spread 4 tbsp of the mixture in a rough line on to a small sheet of baking paper. Wrap it up tightly into a mini sausage shape, twisting both ends. Repeat the process with the remaining mixture, creating as many little sausages as possible before the mixture runs out (you should get 15-20). Once all the mixture is wrapped, transfer to the freezer for 1 hr.

6 Put the flour in a small bowl, the soy milk in a separate small bowl and the breadcrumbs, yeast and 1/4 tsp of salt in a third, mixing together the breadcrumb ingredients to combine. Remove a wrapped portion of cauliflower mixture from the freezer and unwrap. Roll carefully in the flour, then coat in the soy milk and finally in the breadcrumbs. Set aside on a baking tray. Repeat until all the croquettes are coated.

7 Fill a deep pan with at least 71/2cm depth of vegetable oil and use a probe thermometer to bring the temperature to 170C. Fry the croquettes in batches of three to five (depending on the size of the pan) for 3-4 mins. Remove once golden brown and drain on kitchen paper. Sprinkle with sea salt flakes and sliced spring onions before serving with your favourite dip.

PER SERVING 148 kcals | fat 6.2G saturates 1.7G | carbs 18.3G | sugars 1.5G fibre 1.5G | protein 3.9G | salt 0.5G

KING OYSTER MUSHROOM YAKITORI

King oysters are the Dwayne Johnson of the mushroom kingdom. They’re really meaty, actually super-nice and also very interesting to look at in a purely scientific kind of way. That’s why I’ve chosen to use them in this yakitori recipe. The shrooms are sliced super-thin and woven on to a skewer before being grilled and basted with Japanese tare sauce. Bingo! Perfect for a big family barbecue.

MAKES 6-8 SKEWERS | PREP 15 MINS PLUS SOAKING | COOK 20 MINS | EASY |

YAKITORI

200g king oyster mushrooms

1 tbsp vegetable oil, plus extra for cooking

TARE SAUCE

100ml soy sauce

100ml mirin

50ml sake

2 tbsp coconut sugar or soft light brown sugar

2 tsp rice vinegar

2 garlic cloves, chopped

2 spring onions, roughly chopped

11/2cm piece of ginger, peeled and chopped TO SERVE lime slices, radishes and coriander

1 Put 6-8 bamboo skewers in a bowl and cover with water, leaving them to soak for at least 1 hr. Use a mandoline to slice the mushroom stems into long, 5mm-thick strips. Transfer to a bowl and cover with hot water. Leave to soften for 5 mins, then drain the water and cool.

2 Drizzle the mushrooms with the oil and use your hands to mix and make sure they are lightly coated. Fold a strip of mushroom repeatedly like a concertina and skewer it through the centre to keep it in place. Repeat until the skewer is full, then move on to the next until all the mushrooms are all skewered.

3 If you’re planning to cook the yakitori on a barbecue, fire it up now. Make sure the grill or wire rack is lightly oiled to prevent sticking.

4 Put the tare sauce ingredients, plus 50ml of water, in a small pan and whisk well to combine. Bring to the boil over a medium heat, then reduce the heat to low and simmer until the sauce is reduced by half and is thick and glossy. Remove from the heat, strain and set aside.

5 Arrange the yakitori on the wire rack and put on the barbecue. Grill for 4-5 mins or until lightly browned, then flip and repeat on the other side for another 4-5 mins. If you are not using a barbecue, put a large frying pan over a medium heat and drizzle with a little oil. Fry the yakitori for 5 mins on each side or until lightly browned.

6 Brush the yakitori with the tare sauce and put back on the barbecue or in the frying pan. Cook for 2 mins before flipping, brushing with the sauce again and repeating. Repeat this process twice more, brushing with more sauce each time.

7 Once fully grilled and coated in caramelised, sticky sauce, the yakitori are ready to serve, with lime slices, radishes and coriander on the side, if you like.

PER SERVING 67 kcals | fat 1.9G saturates 0.1G | carbs 9.6G | sugars 7.3G fibre 0.7G | protein 0.2G | salt 1.1G

NANNY SADIE’S VANILLA CUSTARD SLICE

As a kid, Nanny Sadie’s house was my destination for sick days when both my parents were out at work. We’d play card games, read each other’s tea leaves and eat way too many pastries from the local Sayers bakery. No wonder I was always pulling sickies! Nanny’s favourite was always the custard slice, so naturally she’d get two, so we didn’t have to share.

MAKES 8 | PREP 20 MINS PLUS COOLING COOK 45 MINS | EASY |

2 x 375g packs of ready-rolled vegan puff pastry

1 litre soy milk, plus 2 tbsp

11/2 tbsp vanilla bean paste or the seeds from 1 vanilla pod

260g caster sugar

2 x 400ml tins of coconut milk

120g cornflour

90g vegan butter, chopped

260g icing sugar

1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6 and line a large baking sheet with baking paper. Unroll one sheet of pastry onto the lined baking sheet and top with another layer of baking paper. Top with a second baking sheet. Repeat the process with the second sheet of pastry or, if you’re short on baking sheets, bake the pastry one sheet at a time.

2 Bake in the oven for 25 mins, then remove from the oven and lift off the top baking sheets to allow the pastry to cool fully. Once cooled, trim the sheets to fit inside a 23cm square steep-sided brownie/cake tin. Put one sheet inside the tin.

3 Put 1 litre of soy milk, the vanilla, caster sugar, coconut milk and cornflour in a large pan over a medium-low heat and whisk constantly until very

thick – if the custard is not thick after 8-10 mins, increase the heat slightly and keep whisking.

4 Once the custard is thick, remove the pan from the heat and add the butter. Stir well with a spatula until the butter is melted and evenly distributed. Immediately pour the custard into the baking tin with the sheet of puff pastry at the bottom. Top with the second sheet of pastry and leave to cool for 10 mins. Transfer to the fridge to set for at least 6 hrs.

5 Once cooled and set, mix together the icing sugar and 2 tbsp of soy milk in a bowl. Pour the icing over the top of the custard slice and spread into a thin layer. You could try feathering the icing into patterns with a touch of chocolate at this stage, if you fancy. Return to the fridge for a further 10 mins to set before slicing and serving.

PER SERVING 971 kcals | fat 52.5G saturates 32G | carbs 112.1G | sugars 68.3G fibre 3.7G | protein 10.3G | salt 1G

Recipes extracted from Anything You Can Cook, I Can Cook Vegan by Richard Makin (£25, Bloomsbury). Photographs: Richard Makin. Recipes are sent by the publisher and not retested by us.

3 WAYS WITH

OLIVE OIL

Make this everyday ingredient the star of the show in these impressive recipes

Recipes NADINE BROWN 1

Peach and basil focaccia

SERVES 8-10 | PREP 15 MINS PLUS PROOFING COOK 25 MINS | EASY | V

80ml olive oil, plus 5 tbsp and extra for the bowl small handful of basil leaves, plus smaller leaves to garnish 500g strong bread flour, plus extra for dusting

7g fast-action dried yeast

2 tsp sea salt flakes, plus extra to garnish

4 peaches, pits removed and cut into 24 wedges

1½ tbsp runny honey

1 Put 80ml of olive oil and the basil in a mini food processor. Blitz until the basil is very finely broken down.

2 Put the flour, yeast and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer, and stir to combine. Create a well in the middle and add half the basil oil. Using a dough hook on a medium speed, mix the flour for 5 mins, gradually adding 300-350ml of lukewarm water until combined and you have a smooth, slightly sticky dough – you might not need all the water so keep an eye on it. Lightly oil a large bowl with a little olive oil and add the dough. Cover and leave in a warm, draft-free area for 1 hr until doubled in size.

3 Add 3 tbsp of olive oil to a 23cm x 33cm roasting tray. Add the dough and, using your fingers, spread it into an even layer, stretching into the corners. Loosely cover, then transfer to a warm, draft-free area and leave to rise again for 30 mins.

4 Heat the oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Press your fingers into the dough to create dimples. Arrange the peach wedges on the dough, pressing them in gently. Drizzle with 2 tbsp of olive oil and bake for 25 mins until golden on top and the edges of the peaches start to caramelise. Combine the honey with the reserved basil oil and brush over the top of the bread while still hot. Sprinkle over a generous pinch of sea salt flakes and extra basil leaves to garnish. Slice and serve.

PER SERVING (10) 327 kcals | fat 14.1G saturates 2.1G | carbs 42G | sugars 4.4G fibre 2.2G | protein 6.8G | salt 1G

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Confit fennel with Puy lentils

SERVES 4 | PREP 20 MINS

COOK 2 HRS 30 MINS | EASY | V LC

500g fennel, cut into 12 wedges

6 strips of lemon peel

7 garlic cloves, 6 crushed, 1 minced

1 tsp whole black peppercorns

3 bay leaves

375-400ml olive oil

240g Puy lentils, rinsed

1 vegetable stock cube

60g walnut halves

juice of 1/2 a lemon

1/2 tsp dijon mustard

handful of dill, finely chopped, plus extra to garnish

80g goat’s cheese

1 Heat the oven to 160C/140C fan/gas 3. Put the fennel, lemon peel, 6 crushed garlic cloves, peppercorns, bay leaves and 2 tsp of salt in a medium, deep baking dish. Toss together, then pour over 375ml of oil. Everything should be submerged but add a little more oil if needed. Cover tightly with foil, then cook in the oven for 2 hrs 30 mins, turning everything over halfway through, until the fennel is tender.

2 Meanwhile, put the lentils in a pan and cover with 675ml of water. Bring to the boil, crumble in the stock cube, stir, then reduce the heat and simmer for 30 mins until tender but still with a little bite.

3 During the final 15 mins of the fennel cooking time, put the walnuts in a baking tray and cook in the oven until golden

and toasted – check after 10 mins to make sure they are not burning. Remove from the oven and chop.

4 Strain the fennel, discarding the aromatics and reserving 60ml of the oil. Put the remaining minced garlic clove, lemon juice and mustard in a bowl. Slowly drizzle in the oil, whisking as you go, until emulsified. Whisk in most of the dill, season to taste, then toss with the lentils and walnuts.

5 Divide the lentils between serving plates, top with the fennel, goat’s cheese and an extra sprinkle of dill, with a crack of black pepper to finish.

PER SERVING 532 kcals | fat 35.3G saturates 7.5G | carbs 26.3G | sugars 3.3G fibre 12.2G | protein 21.5G | salt 1.6G

Olive oil stracciatella ice cream

SERVES 8 | PREP 30 MINS PLUS CHURNING AND COOLING COOK 15 MINS | EASY | GF

500ml milk

250ml double cream

150g golden caster sugar

1 tsp vanilla bean paste

4 egg yolks

60ml good-quality extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling

45g dark chocolate (60-75% cocoa)

1 scant tbsp coconut oil

1 Put the milk and cream in a heavybased pan along with half the sugar, the vanilla bean paste and a large pinch of sea salt. Bring the mixture to a gentle simmer over a low heat, stirring often,

until almost boiling. Take off the heat, cover and set aside for 30 mins to infuse.

2 Put the egg yolks in a bowl with the rest of the sugar and beat with an electric hand beater for 2 mins until the mixture is paler and has thickened. Rewarm the cream mixture and then whisk a few tbsp into the egg yolks to loosen. Scrape the yolks into the pan and cook over a very low heat, stirring all the time, for 8-10 mins or until the custard is thick enough to lightly coat the back of a wooden spoon or spatula. You don’t want it to boil as it will curdle, so keep a close eye.

3 Pour the custard into a heatproof bowl and stir in the oil. Sit it in a bigger bowl filled halfway with ice or iced water – be careful not to overfill as you don’t want any water getting into the custard. Stir until cool and to stop a skin forming, then chill for 2 hrs.

4 When ready to churn, freeze the custard in an ice cream maker following the manufacturer’s instructions. Meanwhile, melt the chocolate in the microwave in 15-second bursts, stirring occasionally. Add the coconut oil and stir until melted. Transfer to a piping bag and snip a very small hole at the end. During the final few minutes of the ice cream’s churning time, drizzle the chocolate into the machine in a thin stream. For a firmer ice cream, transfer to a freezable container and freeze for another hour or two. Serve with an extra drizzle of olive oil and a pinch of flaky sea salt.

PER SERVING 414 kcals | fat 32.9G saturates 16.2G | carbs 24.8G | sugars 24.4G fibre 0.5G | protein 4.4G | salt 0.2G

Miso salmon garlic crêpes (recipe on p46)

Chicken burrito fried rice (recipe on p46)

Miso salmon garlic crêpes

MAKES 8 | PREP 15 MIN | COOK 35 MINS | EASY | LC

340ml full-fat milk

1 tsp white miso paste, plus 2 tbsp

2 tbsp olive oil

1 egg

1¼ tsp garlic powder

110g plain flour

coconut oil, for frying

3 tbsp rice wine vinegar

4 tbsp maple syrup

5 x 120g salmon fillets

2 tbsp coconut oil, plus extra for frying

4 garlic cloves, finely chopped

200g shiitake mushrooms, sliced into strips

250g baby spinach

2 tsp light soy sauce

1 tsp sesame oil

2 tbsp sesame seeds, toasted

1 To make the crêpes, put 3 tbsp of the milk in a small bowl and warm in the microwave for 10-20 seconds. Add 1 tsp of miso and whisk until dissolved, then transfer to a large bowl, along with the remaining milk, olive oil, egg, 1/4 tsp of garlic powder, and some salt and pepper. Whisk until combined.

2 Put the flour in a large bowl and make a well in the centre. Slowly pour in the wet mixture, whisking the batter until completely smooth. Set aside to rest.

3 In a large bowl, whisk 2 tbsp of miso, the rice wine vinegar, 2 tbsp of the maple syrup, 1/4 tsp of ground black pepper and 1 tsp of garlic powder, and whisk to combine. Toss the salmon fillets in the marinade until thoroughly coated, then cover.

4 Put 1 tbsp of coconut oil in a large wok over a medium heat, then fry the garlic for a minute. Add the mushrooms, turn the heat up to high and fry them for 2-3 mins, then add the spinach, 1/4 tsp of ground black pepper, soy and sesame oil, and mix well to combine. Turn off the heat and continue stirring the spinach in the residual heat until just wilted. Transfer the spinach and mushrooms to a separate dish to prevent overcooking and scatter over sesame seeds.

5 Using a brush, lightly grease a non-stick pan with coconut oil, then put over a medium heat. Once warm, add a ladle of pancake batter into the pan and quickly swirl around until it evenly coats the base. Fry for 2 mins until the edges start to pull away from the sides, then flip the crêpe carefully using a fish slice and cook for 2 mins. Repeat this process with the rest of the batter until you have eight crêpes. Cover to keep warm while you fry the salmon.

6 Heat 1 tbsp of coconut oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat. Cook the salmon fillets in the hot pan, skin-side down, for 2 mins. Flip and fry for another minute until almost cooked.

7 Transfer to a plate, carefully peel off the skin and use forks to gently break the flesh into large flakes. Pour the marinade into the pan and simmer over a high heat for 20 seconds until slightly thickened. Stir through the flaked salmon and cook for 1 min until just cooked. Add the remaining maple syrup and stir to combine, then take off the heat.

8 To assemble, lay out a crêpe, add a spoonful of the spinach and mushroom mixture in the middle, leaving a 5cm border. Scatter the miso salmon on top of the spinach, fold the top and bottom of the crêpe over the filling, then fold the two sides over to form a square, exposing some of the filling in the middle.

PER SERVING 385 kcals | fat 22.8G saturates 7.6G | carbs 22G | sugars 8.9G fibre 2.2G | protein 21.8G | salt 0.8G

Chicken burrito fried rice

SERVES 5 | PREP 30 MINS | COOK 30 MINS | EASY | GF

CHIPOTLE CHICKEN AND VEG

2 tbsp olive oil, for frying

1 medium onion, finely diced

3 tsp paprika

1 tsp cayenne pepper

6 tsp chipotle paste

6 garlic cloves, finely chopped

600g boneless chicken thighs, diced

1 red pepper, diced

400g can of black beans, drained

160g can of sweetcorn, drained

20 slices of pickled jalapeño

LIME AND CORIANDER RICE

2 limes, zested, plus juice of 11/2 large handful of coriander, finely chopped 600g cooked long grain rice, cold

SALSA

1 red onion, diced

1 lime, juiced

2 small salad tomatoes, diced bunch of coriander, finely chopped

GUACAMOLE

1 red onion, diced

2 limes, juiced

2 large avocados, flesh scooped out

4 garlic cloves, finely chopped bunch of coriander, finely chopped

1 green jalapeño, finely diced (optional)

TO SERVE

1 small Little Gem lettuce, thinly sliced handful of tortillas, crushed

2 large handfuls of grated mozzarella (optional)

1 Heat the oil in a large pan or wok over a medium heat and fry the onion for 10 mins until softened and slightly browned. Add the paprika, cayenne, chipotle and garlic, and fry for a few minutes until fragrant.

2 Add the chicken and cook for 10 mins until browned and well coated in the spices, then add the pepper and cook for 2 mins. Stir through the beans, sweetcorn and 11/2 tsp of fine sea salt, then taste and adjust the spices and seasonings as needed. Turn off the heat.

3 Stir the lime zest and juice, and coriander, through the rice with a fork, mixing well. Turn the heat back on under your pan, add the rice to the chicken and stir gently to combine for 2-3 mins until hot, making sure not to break up the rice. Scatter through the jalapeños, then turn off the heat.

4 To make the salsa, put the onion in a small bowl and cover with lime juice. Scrunch them with your hands to help the onions pickle faster, then add the tomato and coriander, and season with a pinch of salt and pepper.

5 To make a quick guacamole, put the onion in a bowl, cover with the juice of 1 lime and, as before, scrunch the onion with your hands to help it pickle faster. Mash the avocados with a fork until almost smooth, then stir through the garlic and juice of the other lime. Mix through the coriander and jalapeño, then add the pickled red onion and the juices. Finish with a good pinch of salt and pepper, and give it all one last mix.

6 To serve, mix the lettuce through the fried rice, then spoon onto plates. Sprinkle crushed tortilla chips over the top, with the salsa and guacamole on the side. Finally, top with grated mozzarella, if you like.

PER SERVING 760 kcals | fat 33.9G saturates 7G | carbs 67.6G | sugars 12.7G fibre 14.4G | protein 38.8G | salt 2.6G

Spiced squash and Puy lentil salad

If you think that salads are one-dimensional, I guarantee that this one will change your mind. With sweet and spicy roasted red onions and squash, nutty Puy lentils, a creamy tahini dressing and a scattering of peppery rocket, it’s a flavour and texture sensation.

SERVES 4 | PREP 15 MINS

COOK 30 MINS | EASY | LC GF

ROASTED SQUASH

530g butternut squash

2 red onions, sliced into wedges

3 tsp ras el hanout

2 tsp garlic powder

½ tsp dried chilli flakes

3 tbsp olive oil

1 tbsp red wine vinegar

1 tbsp maple syrup

LENTILS

250g pack of cooked Puy lentils

2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for drizzling

1 tbsp maple syrup squeeze of lemon juice

1 tsp dried herbs (I like basil)

½ tsp garlic powder

medium bag of rocket, to garnish

TAHINI DRESSING

3½ tbsp tahini juice of ½ lemon

1 tbsp olive oil

200g greek yogurt (or a dairy-free alternative)

1 tsp garlic powder

1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Top and tail the squash, slice it in half lengthways and then scoop out the seeds and the stringy bits. Cut each half into thick strips (which will look like half moons).

2 Arrange the squash and onions on an ovenproof tray, then sprinkle over the ras el hanout, garlic, chilli, 1/2 tsp each of fine sea salt and ground black pepper, the oil, vinegar and maple syrup. Use your hands to toss the vegetables until thoroughly coated.

3 Roast for 30 mins, rotating the tray halfway through and giving the vegetables a toss. Once cooked, the squash should be soft and pierce easily with a knife. Set aside to cool.

4 Put the lentils in a bowl and add the oil, maple syrup, lemon juice, herbs, garlic and some seasoning, and stir to combine.

5 To make the dressing, whisk all the ingredients, plus 1/4 tsp each of fine sea salt and ground black pepper in a bowl to combine. Add 3 tbsp of water and whisk again to loosen slightly.

6 To assemble, cover the base of a large, flat serving dish with rocket. Spoon the lentils into the centre, then scatter the roasted squash and onions on top. Generously drizzle the dressing all over with a little extra olive oil too, if you wish.

PER SERVING 507 kcals | fat 30.9G saturates 7.1G | carbs 36.3G | sugars 17.7G fibre 11G | protein 15.5G | salt 1.2G

Za’atar potato hash with baked eggs

I recently tried batata harra for the first time, a delicious, spicy Lebanese potato dish. I thought to myself, this would work so well in a potato hash and, lo and behold, it worked a treat. This is perfect for brunch – warm, filling and comforting.

SERVES 2 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 35 MINS

EASY | V LC GF

470g white potatoes, peeled and diced

3 tbsp coconut oil or avocado oil

2 small red onions, diced

2 tbsp sherry vinegar

1½ tbsp za’atar

2 tsp garlic powder

½ tsp dried chilli flakes

small bunch of coriander, finely chopped

1 garlic clove, minced

juice of ½ lemon

2 eggs

1 Heat the oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Put the potatoes in a large pan of cold, salted water. Bring to the boil and cook the potatoes for 10 mins until they can be pierced with a knife but are still firm. Drain and set aside.

2 Put the oil in a large ovenproof frying pan over a medium heat. Once hot, fry the potatoes and onions for 2 mins until the onions have softened and the potatoes are slightly browned. Add the vinegar, za’atar, garlic powder, chilli flakes, 1 tsp of fine sea salt and 1/2 tsp of ground black pepper, and toss everything together until coated. Transfer the frying pan to the oven and bake for 20 mins, tossing everything halfway through, until the potatoes are golden and slightly crispy around the edges.

3 Sprinkle over the coriander, garlic and lemon juice, and give everything a final mix. Make two wells in the mixture and crack an egg into each.

4 Turn on the grill and put the frying pan under the grill for 5 mins until the eggs are cooked and the whites opaque.

PER SERVING 486 kcals | fat 25.9G

saturates 16.5G | carbs 43.2G | sugars 6G fibre 9.3G | protein 15.4G | salt 2.8G

’Nduja, kale and mascarpone rigatoni

SERVES 3 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 25 MINS | EASY

CRISPY KALE

125g kale leaves

2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for frying

1 tsp garlic powder

PASTA

250g rigatoni

85g ’nduja

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

4 heaped tbsp mascarpone

zest of 1/2 a lemon, plus juice of a 1/4 20g parmesan, grated, plus extra to garnish

1 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Tear the kale into bite-sized pieces, removing any thick stems, and put on a large roasting tray. Toss with the olive oil, garlic powder and 1/2 tsp each of fine sea salt and ground black pepper, and use your hands to ensure the leaves are well coated. Bake for 25 mins until crispy, rotating the pan halfway through.

2 Bring a large pot of heavily salted water to the boil and cook the rigatoni until just before al dente (about 3 mins less than the pack instructions). Reserve 250ml of the cooking water.

3 While the pasta is cooking, put a large frying pan over a medium-low heat and fry the ’nduja for 2 mins until it has melted into a sizzling paste. Add some olive oil and the garlic and fry over a very low heat for 5 mins until fragrant. Add half of the pasta water and swirl to loosen the ’nduja a little, then stir through the mascarpone, mixing to combine. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the rigatoni from the water straight into the frying pan. Give the pasta a really good toss until fully coated in the sauce. Add the lemon zest and juice, the parmesan and a little more pasta water as needed, to loosen the sauce, mixing well until glossy.

4 Take the pan off the heat, season with black pepper and stir through half the crispy kale. Toss together, then serve scattered with the remaining kale and more parmesan, if you like.

PER SERVING 741 kcals | fat 43.3G saturates 19.9G | carbs 65.6G | sugars 5.3G fibre 6.5G | protein 18.8G | salt 2.1G

Recipes extracted from FlavourKitchen by Crystelle Pereira (£22, Kyle Books).

Photographs: Vanessa Lewis.

Cover photograph: David Reiss. Recipes are sent by the publisher and not retested by us.

MEET KAREN

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Vegan tacos COOK A CLASSIC

SERVES 4 | PREP 20 MINS PLUS PICKLING | COOK 20 MINS | EASY | GF

PICKLED ONIONS

1 small red onion, finely sliced

4 tbsp cider vinegar

2 tbsp caster sugar

TACO FILLING

1 tbsp vegetable oil

½ red onion, finely chopped

1 large sweet potato, peeled and cut into 1cm cubes

2 red peppers, deseeded and finely chopped

400g tin of black beans, rinsed and drained

2 tsp ground cumin

1 tsp garlic granules

1 tbsp chipotle paste

SALSA

2 tomatoes, finely chopped

½ red onion, finely chopped

1 lime, juiced, plus wedges to serve small bunch of coriander, half finely chopped, plus leaves to serve

8-10 small corn tortillas, warmed

1 avocado, finely sliced, to serve dairy-free yogurt, to serve

1 Put the pickled onion ingredients in a jar or bowl with 2 tbsp of boiling water and a pinch of salt. Leave to pickle while you make the tacos.

2 Heat the oil in a large frying pan and fry the onion for 10 mins until soft. Stir in the sweet potato and pepper, then fry for 5-10 mins or softened. Stir in the beans, cumin and garlic. Toast the spices for a few minutes, then stir in the chipotle, 100ml of just-boiled water and plenty of seasoning. Simmer for 10 mins until the veg is tender.

3 Mix together the salsa ingredients in a bowl with some seasoning. Serve the warmed tortillas with the veg and beans, pickled onions, salsa, avocado and yogurt alongside, and let everyone build their own tacos.

PER SERVING 586 kcals | fat 16.1G saturates 2.6G | carbs 87.1G | sugars 20.2G fibre 13.4G | protein 16.6G | salt 1.2G

These meat-free tacos are fresh, zesty and perfect for a Saturday night sofa supper

Recipe ANNA GLOVER

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Total PERi-fection

African origins

Did you know Nando’s was born in South Africa? For centuries, the people of Mozambique have used PERi-PERi, also known as the African bird’s-eye chilli, to bring fire to their food. Over time, the country became a melting pot of cultures, and the Portuguese soon learned of the power of PERi-PERi too. With a squeeze of lemon and a kick of garlic, they turned it into a sought-after sauce – which eventually ended up in Rosettenville, Johannesburg.

Fast forward to 1987, when Fernando Duarte invited his friend Robbie Brozin to try PERi-PERi flame-grilled chicken at a humble Portuguese eatery in Rosettenville. As their meal drew to a close, they both felt they’d found something that had to be shared. In Fernando’s own words: “I knew nothing about the food business. I just knew it was the best chicken I had ever tasted.” Together, the pair opened the first ever Nando’s restaurant that same year.

products you

Of course, Nando’s has come a long way since then. Today, you can find its restaurants in more than 20 countries around the world, and there’s even a range of grocery products to help you bring Nando’s signature PERi-PERi flavour to your food at home. From sauces and condiments to seasoning blends, you’ll find everything you need to create simple yet delicious midweek meals that go far beyond the usual Nando’s menu.

Get cooking

Want to give the Nando’s range a go? Head to bit.ly/nandos-olive to discover an exciting selection of recipes you can make using your favourite PERi-PERi products. Each one requires minimal effort for maximum flavour, so you can serve up a mouth-watering plate of PERi PERi spaghetti and meatballs, Lemon & Herb gnocchi or Smokey BBQ chicken quesadillas for the whole family in no time.

To find out more and see the full recipes, visit bit.ly/nandos-olive or scan the QR code

DISCOVER

Our round-up of the best outdoor dining spots for alfresco season, serve up a slice of the Riviera from Mayfair’s Socca, plus venture into the fascinating cuisines of Indonesia and Pakistan

EVERY BITE VER Sunshine in

O’s pick of the peachiest alfresco dining spots for summer ’23, from sun-baked city squares to chilled rural idylls, rooftop hideaways and waterside retreats

ALL-WEATHER EXTRAVAGANZA KAPARA, LONDON

Channelling Tel Aviv, this vivacious Soho complex mixes music, food and cocktails, the fun spilling out onto a large covered, heated terrace (pictured, left). Chef Eran Tibi’s creative food revels in theatrical presentation and playful dish names. Dessert ‘gramp’s cigar’ very much looks like it, while deep-fried paprika marinated chicken thighs, with orange harissa kimchi and wild garlic mayo, are subtitled ‘crispy crunchy bums’. Core plates from £11; kapara.co.uk

HARBOUR VIEWS ARGOE, NEWLYN

Celebrating Cornwall’s fishing fleet, this modish, wood-clad restaurant serves daily changing menus of, say, grilled chard and scallop butter, sand sole with preserved lemon or coley skewers with togarashi. Its terrace and low-intervention tap wines seal a sweet summer deal. Plates £9-30; argoenewlyn.co.uk

HIP HIDEAWAY HOLM, SOUTH PETHERTON

A spin-off from London’s acclaimed Levan, this gorgeous Somerset restaurant-with-rooms has a kitchen garden terrace where you can linger over Orkney scallops with salsify and dulse butter or Westcombe ricotta agnolotti with pecorino and wild garlic. Larger plates from £18; holmsomerset.co.uk

BEACHSIDE BOLTHOLE THE GALLIVANT, CAMBER SANDS, RYE

There is a take-out menu to graze on while lazing in the dunes, or seek out this hotel’s chill alfresco area for English wines and sustainable plates such as Brit burrata with embercooked leeks and romesco. Mains from £22; thegallivant.co.uk

RURAL IDYLL UPDOWN, DEAL

There’s a Tuscan villa vibe to this renovated Kent farmhouse. Both in the more Italian of chef Oli Brown’s seasonal dishes (pork, borlotti, cime di rapa and salsa verde; Amalfi lemon sorbet), and in its outdoor space with its pergola of vines and wisteria. Mains from £22; updownfarmhouse.com

HOT STUFF BECKFORD CANTEEN, BATH

Chef George Barson’s modern British cooking (sardines on toast; monkfish with cauliflower and curried butter) is gathering plaudits and Beckford’s new courtyard garden only intensifies its appeal. A varied drinks list includes own-label wines, or for a great choice pop into nearby Beckford Bottle Shop where you can buy wines to drink here (plus corkage fee). A commitment to sourcing locally and choosing suppliers with strong sustainability credentials make it extra popular. Larger plates from £19; beckfordcanteen.com

PARISIAN STYLE POMPETTE, OXFORD

With its pavement terrace, steak frites, panisse and jambon persillé terrine, Pompette is a slice of Paris in Summertown. Two courses from £26; pompetterestaurant.co.uk

SEAFOOD CLASSIC BENTLEY’S, LONDON

Richard Corrigan’s classic, AKA the ‘grand dame of Swallow Street’, has been serving oysters, lobster bisque and dover sole from starched white linen since 1916. Its year-round terrace is especially appealing in the city sunshine. Mains from £29; bentleys.org

DAYTIME DELIGHT HILLTOP KITCHEN, GODALMING, SURREY

Farm-to-fork lunch spot (think brawn croquettes, chilli mayo; squash ravioli with hazelnuts, brown butter), whose terrace commands sweeping views. Mains from £11.50; hilltop-kitchen.co.uk

SUNNY DAY SPEED DIAL CELENTANO’S, GLASGOW

Nurse a negroni made with homemade vermouth on the handsome terrace, before trying chef Dean Parker’s Italian plates, such as linguine, cod cheeks, pistachio, preserved lemon and dill. Larger plates £15-26; celentanosglasgow.com

SUBURBAN STAR HEANEYS, CARDIFF

Serving ambitious dishes such as barbecued Welsh lamb, goat’s curd, black garlic, mint and nori, chef Tommy Heaney’s buzzy restaurant is a fave with Pontcanna foodies. Now includes a neat pavement terrace. Two courses from £25; heaneyscardiff.co.uk

POP-UP PEACH BARNABY’S, PADSTOW

Prawn on the Lawn’s new summer pop-up at Trevibban Mill Vineyard, an indoor-outdoor affair with lush views of vineyards and wildflower meadows. Expect dishes such as scallops, fenugreek and pistachio butter or BBQ mackerel and mojo verde. Plates around £7-24; prawnonthelawn.com

HIDDEN GEM DININGS SW3, LONDON

Shaded by an ancient oak, the cute courtyard behind this west London mews offers a serene escape. Chef Masaki Sugisaki’s elevated fish dishes, sushi and sashimi are equally restorative. Plates from £6.50; larger dishes from around £16.50; diningssw3.co.uk

COUNTRY HOUSE CLASSIC THE BARN, ASCOT

Stylish covered terrace amid hotel Coworth Park’s splendid gardens. The Barn’s British brasserie menu, from upscale burgers to elegant seafood dishes, is designed by Adam Smith, Michelin star holder at the hotel’s Woven restaurant. Mains from £26; dorchestercollection.com

WATERSIDE WONDER PACO TAPAS, BRISTOL

LA DOLCE VITA CIRCOLO POPOLARE, LONDON

With its extravagant décor, Neapolitan-style pizza and fresh pastas (including a carbonara served in a hollowedout pecorino wheel), Circolo feels like a portal to Italy. Its leafy terrace, like a courtyard you might stumble across in Sicily or Rome, continues that vibe. Mains from £13.50; bigmammagroup.com

From prized presa ibérica pork to Galicianstyle octopus, next-level Spanish dishes alfresco on Bristol harbour. Dishes £8-49; pacotapas.co.uk

ENGLISH WINE AND DINE CHALK, WASHINGTON, WEST SUSSEX

Lush courtyard setting amid a renovated 18th century barn complex, on winemaker Wiston’s estate. After an appetite-sharpening glass of brut NV, enjoy well executed dishes of beef tartare or lamb, juniper-smoked potato and salsa verde. Mains from £17; wistonestate.com

MAKING HISTORY PURNELL’S CAFÉ & BISTRO, COVENTRY

Glynn Purnell’s latest venue, within a restored 14th century monastery and gardens. Sharing plates around £6-11; historiccoventrytrust.org.uk

SERENE IN THE CITY TOKLAS, LONDON

Large, peaceful, plantfestooned terrace above the Strand, serving – example plate: dover sole with courgette trifolati, marjoram and Amalfi lemon – some of London’s best Italian food. Larger plates from £19; toklaslondon.com

THE HIGH LIFE

Rooftop terraces where the food and vibe is as exciting as the view.

• Studio Frantzén, London

Björn Frantzén’s Asian-inflected Nordic food on Harrods’ top floor – the rooftop terrace offers views across Kensington and dishes such as sake-cured mackerel. Mains from £30; studiofrantzenlondon.com

• The Ubiquitous Chip, Glasgow

Eat the brasserie’s seafood risotto or beef and venison burger on a cosy terrace overlooking the West End. Mains from £16; ubiquitouschip.co.uk

• Green Room, Leeds

Hip brunch-lunch spot with a large, sunny roof terrace, and dishes ranging from rainbow bowls to pavlova-inspired french toast. From £8; green-room.com

• Maene, London Overlooking Spitalfields, enjoy the likes of Cornish mussels in smoked cider and butter sauce. Core plates £10-19; maenerestaurant.co.uk

• Climat, Manchester Consider the city’s skyline over sharing dishes of, say, pork loin, smoked clementine and mustard seeds. Plates £8-23; restaurantclimat.co.uk

• Cavo, London A stylish, lively terrace near Tottenham Court Road where you can enjoy upscale Mediterranean plates such as seared scallops in champagne butter with chilli. Sharing plates, £13-48; cavorestaurant.com

• The Seafood Restaurant, Padstow

On fine days, Rick Stein’s HQ opens its terrace for ocean views and seafood ranging from fish ’n’ chips to a blow-out fruits de mer. Mains from £18.95; rickstein.com

ARCHITECTURAL FIND MARAY, MANCHESTER

Colourful global plates on a terrace by the famous Hidden Gem church. Plates £5-13.50; maray.co.uk

• The Swan, Tenterden, Kent Expect inspiring views across Chapel Down vineyard and dishes of soused mussels, sea herbs, sourdough croûte and rouille. Lunch, two courses, £35; swanchapeldown.co.uk

• Laurel’s on the Roof, London Poolside 70s LA chic atop Mondrian Shoreditch. An allday menu includes tuna ceviche and lobster risotto. Mains from £16; ennismore.com

• The Suffolk, Aldeburgh Restaurantwith-rooms where stellar dishes (try roast halibut with lobster velouté) are now served with sea views on a new roof terrace. Mains from £18; the-suffolk.co.uk

SIGNATUREDISH

Socca

Discover a touch of French Riviera glam courtesy of Claude Bosi’s Mayfair restaurant

SOCCAWITHSATARTINADE

The food of the Côte d’Azur is known for its sunshine and chic, effortless vibes, elements captured exactly in Mayfair’s Socca. The palette of pastels and baby blue inside and out, art from local artists and waiters are decidedly French, and the menu reflects that, too. Informed by Claude Bosi’s (pictured) memories of eating the food in the south of France as a child, fish and seafood is celebrated, the aperitif menu is plentiful and, of course, there’s the namesake socca – a type of thin, unleavened pancake or crêpe made from chickpea flour. soccabistro.com

Socca with sa tartinade

SERVES 4-6 | PREP 20 MINS PLUS RESTING

COOK 1 HR 20 MINS | EASY | GF

SOCCA

6 tbsp olive oil

1 large shallot, finely sliced

3 thyme stalks, leaves only, roughly chopped

100g gram flour

1 scant tsp baking powder

1/2 lemon, zested and juiced

2 tbsp tinned chickpeas, drained and roughly chopped

SA TARTINADE

250g aubergine, chopped

2 peppers, 1 red and 1 yellow, chopped

1 garlic bulb

1 tsp olive oil, plus extra to drizzle

1 Heat 2 tbsp of the olive oil in a pan over a medium heat. Cook the shallot and thyme leaves for 4-6 mins or until softened. Set aside and leave to cool until needed.

2 Mix the gram flour, baking powder and lemon zest in a large bowl. Make a well in the centre and add 2 tbsp of olive oil. Slowly pour in 250ml of warm water, whisking as you go, until a smooth batter forms. Season, cover and set aside for at least 1 hr, or you can also keep in the fridge for up to a day.

3 Smoke the aubergine and peppers over a gas burner for 6-8 mins until the skins are charred and blistered. Alternatively, put them under a high grill for 8-10 mins, turning occasionally. Transfer to a container and cover, letting them steam for 10 mins. Remove the seeds from the peppers, plus the stalks and the charred skin from the aubergine and peppers.

4 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Slice a little off the top of the garlic bulb, drizzle with the olive oil and season. Wrap in foil and roast for 45 mins until softened.

5 Transfer the peppers and aubergine to a food processor along with the garlic flesh, and pulse until it forms a dip consistency. Alternatively, finely chop the peppers and aubergine, mash the garlic and combine. Stir in the lemon juice, zest and season to taste. Cover until needed.

6 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 5. Put the remaining oil in a 23cm non-stick pan and transfer to the oven to heat up for 15 mins. Stir the onion and chickpeas into the batter and carefully pour into the pan – it should sizzle. Transfer to the oven and bake for 15-18 mins or until the pancake is set. Loosen the sides with a spatula or knife and carefully flip onto a chopping board – the underside should be golden brown. Cut into squares or triangles.

7 Transfer the sa tartinade to a serving bowl and drizzle with the olive oil. Serve with the socca on the side.

PER SERVING (6) 266 kcals | fat 11.3G saturates 1.5G | carbs 25.8G | sugars 3.8G fibre 8.7G | protein 10.8G | salt 0.2G

Menu decoder

ORKNEY SCALLOPS

Socca uses this seafood from a cluster of islands off the coast of Scotland as part of the raw menu – and for good reason. Orkney scallops are meaty and cleaner in taste, giving a tantalising flavour of the sea.

GRAM FLOUR

This fine flour made from ground chickpeas is also called besan flour, and is the staple ingredient used to make socca/farinata/torta di ceci.

The ingredient is also popular in the Indian subcontinent for dishes including pakoras.

Marguerite de la Riviera

SERVES 1 (SYRUP MAKES 20 SERVINGS) |

PREP 10 MINS PLUS INFUSING | COOK 5 MINS | EASY

PINK PEPPERCORN SYRUP

225ml agave syrup

2 tbsp pink peppercorns

COCKTAIL

20ml freshly squeezed lime juice

pink salt to garnish

45ml tequila blanco (we used Código)

25ml Farigoule de Forcalquier Thyme Liqueur

25ml fresh grapefruit juice, plus a strip of peel to garnish thyme sprig, to garnish

1 Combine the agave syrup and peppercorns in a small pan over a low heat for 5 mins until warm, then remove from the heat, cover and leave to infuse for a few hours, ideally overnight. Strain through a fine mesh sieve into a bowl and whisk in 30ml of hot water until combined.

2 To make the cocktail, rub a little lime juice on one half of a rock glass rim. Dip into the salt to coat and transfer to the fridge to chill. Meanwhile, add the remaining lime juice, tequila, liqueur, grapefruit juice and 10ml of the infused agave to a cocktail shaker with plenty of ice. Shake vigorously until sufficiently chilled. Add more ice to the glass and strain in the cocktail. Garnish with the grapefruit peel and thyme.

BOURRIDE

A French-style fish stew, elevated beyond your average soup due to its use of aïoli. At Socca, it’s made with monkfish.

FARIGOULE LIQUEUR DE THYM

Produced by Distilleries et Domaines de Provence in France, this honey-hued liqueur is made by macerating thyme, sage, angelica and lemon verbena, creating an aromatic and fragrant spirit.

Chung’dam

Critic KS Tong and O reader Caitlin Smyth give their verdicts on this modern Korean restaurant in London’s Soho

Kar-Shing ‘KS’ Tong works in the City by day but spends his free time exploring and eating wherever his palate takes him. From street food to Michelin-starred restaurants, nothing is off the table, and he shares it all on Instagram @ks_ate_here

Our pro says

I am too old for TikTok but that won’t stop me from attempting to keep up with the kids. So while Fifty Fifty’s Cupid and accompanying dance helped me realise my K-pop dreams, I turned to Soho’s newest addition, Chung’dam, to rediscover my affinity for Korean food.

The minimalist décor of cream walls contrasted by green marble tables and a golden central bar doesn’t offer much atmosphere; however, the pleasant staff, smartly dressed in casual traditional attire, and the sounds and smells of Korean barbecue cooked at the table give Chung’dam a spark.

The menu is broken down into barbecue meats, rice and noodles, and sides, and direction from the ever helpful staff suggests you order one from each section per person.

An order of kimchi is obligatory – not ordering kimchi at a Korean establishment is like going to Pisa and not taking a picture pushing up the leaning tower. Refreshing and fragrant kimchi served with seasonable vegetables, which on this day were dressed bean sprouts and white radish, perfectly whetted the appetite for the main event.

Here the meal comes to life owing to the theatrics of the dishes being cooked before you by the staff. Orders of the pork belly and salted chicken thighs disappeared quickly but the standout was the signature bulgogi (marinated thin slices of beef) which was best eaten wrapped in lettuce leaves and topped with fermented chilli and paired with an organic white from Italy from the global wine list. The hot stone bowl beef bibimbap was also delicious.

A delicate, fresh strawberry cream shortcake proved the perfect ending. I regret not getting the pyeonbaek steam box – a three-tiered wooden box with steamed seafood, prime beef and seasonal vegetables. Next time.

BILL FOR TWO, INCLUDING SERVICE: £133.88

ATMOSPHERE: 7

SERVICE: 7

FOOD: 7

TOTAL: 21/30

Caitlin Smyth is a rehab assistant for the NHS from Tottenham, London. She eats out twice a month and finds it impossible to pin down a favourite restaurant (it’s a toss up between Officina 00, Chuku’s and Lucky & Joy).

Our punter says

The décor is unassuming at Chung’dam. There is an effort to make the restaurant feel welcoming and up-market, and the atmosphere is lively and warm. The sound of sizzling meat creates a great buzz and the staff are friendly.

The menu is succinct and interesting, with enough choice without being overwhelming. The main draw is the barbecue plate on your table. The drinks menu included some Korean and East Asian spirits. I missed a trick here and went for a Chung’dam Draft, which was a tasty craft-style lager, but I wished I’d noticed the cocktails earlier!

The staff were attentive and their knowledge of the food was where their passion showed. We started with mandoo – chicken and vegetable dumplings which included pickled and chilli daikon for added crunch. The kimchi provided the usual spicy kick, although for the portion size it was expensive. Beef tartar is a favourite of mine so I was excited to see it on the menu with sesame-dressed pear – however, it was served too cold and lacked in seasoning. As it warmed up though, the flavour came through and the juice of the pear cut through the richness of the beef and egg yolk.

On to the barbecue – we ordered rice with thin skirt beef, and marinated iberico pork rib. The beef was served with a homemade wasabi that didn’t blow your head off, and wrapped in a lettuce leaf. It was tender and juicy, we just wished the portion was more generous. The pork was charred and caramelised – it had a sticky, chilli sweetness which went well with an umami ssamjang sauce on the side that we requested plate after plate of.

Overall, the barbecue added theatre, and the service was great. However, it is quite pricey – perhaps because of the Soho location.

BILL FOR TWO, INCLUDING SERVICE: £101.25

ATMOSPHERE: 7

SERVICE: 8

FOOD: 6

TOTAL: 21/30

Named after the bustling Cheongdam-dong district in Seoul, Chung’dam is a contemporary Korean restaurant combining modern Korean cooking with traditional cooking techniques, paired with the finest ingredients in a sleek and refined space that’s designed to facilitate an interactive dining experience taking you on a journey through all your senses. With an impressive cocktail list that features rice wine and soju alongside a global wine list, Chung’dam attempts to live up to the vibrant reputation of its namesake. chungdam.co.uk

What is SALSA MACHA?

SALSA MACHA IS A MEXICAN CRUSHED CHILLI PASTE THAT CAN INCLUDE INGREDIENTS SUCH AS DRIED CHILLIES, PEANUTS, SPICES AND SEEDS, GARLIC AND AGAVE SYRUP. IT HAS AN INTENSE SMOKY, FRUITY FLAVOUR AND IS GREAT USED AS A CONDIMENT FOR TACOS, TO ADD TO MARINADES OR SPOON OVER SCRAMBLED EGGS. IT’S AN INGREDIENT LOVED BY CHEFS SUCH AS KARLA ZAZUETA OF BLOG MEXICAN FOOD MEMORIES, AND GABRIEL PRYCE AT RITA’S IN SOHO, AND FOUND OFTEN ON THE MENUS OF RESTAURANTS INCLUDING CASA PASTOR AND KOL. HERE IT’S RIPPLED INTO A CREAMY PINTO BEAN DIP THAT’S GREAT FOR A PICNIC OR BARBECUE. BRANDS SUCH AS LUCHITO, COOL CHILE AND NATOORA ALL SELL THEIR OWN BLENDS OF SALSA MACHA, AVAILABLE AT OCADO.

THIS MONTH with Gurdeep Loyal

Our trends expert shares a recipe featuring a smoky Mexican chilli paste and explores a must-visit

Swedish foodie hot spot

Pinto bean and salsa macha dip

SERVES 6-8 | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 10 MINS

EASY | V GF

3 tbsp rapeseed oil

1 onion, finely diced

3 garlic cloves, minced

2 tsp ground cumin

2 x 480g tins of pinto beans, drained

2 tbsp soured cream

pinch of sugar

3 tbsp salsa macha (I used Luchito) thumb-sized piece ginger, minced

3 tbsp lime juice, plus 1 tsp of zest 10g coriander, very finely chopped corn tortillas, to serve

1 Heat the oil in a pan over a low heat, then gently sizzle the onions for 6-7 mins or until they turn soft and translucent.

2 Add the garlic and cumin, warming through for 1 min, before adding the beans. Stir well, warming through the beans and coating them in the spices.

3 Empty the mixture into a blender along with the soured cream, ¾ tsp of fine sea salt and a pinch of sugar. Whizz to a fine paste, adding a splash of water if needed to get a creamy consistency. Empty into a serving bowl.

4 In another bowl, mix together the salsa macha, ginger, lime juice and zest, and coriander. Ripple the citrussy salsa mixture through the dip. Serve with corn tortilla chips and ice-cold beers.

PER SERVING (8) 160 kcals | fat 9G

saturates 1.3G | carbs 12.6G | sugars 2.9G fibre 4G | protein 5.2G | salt 1G

Östersund, Sweden

Situated in the middle of Sweden, Östersund is a Unesco Creative City of Gastronomy and boasts one of the highest numbers of small-scale food artisans and organic farmers in the country. Innovative bistro Republiken Bar & Kök (republiken.net) serves everything from moose carpaccio to cellar-matured goat’s cheese from local farmers. Nästgårds Farm Restaurant (open in summer) and its sister BUA (nastgard.se) create menus with sustainability at their heart, with dishes such as halibut with coriander seeds, rose pepper, green tomato and fried sourdough. The menu at Hamngatan 12 (hamngatan12.se) fights against food waste by using surplus produce and with upcycled dishes including its potato and leek soup topped with crispy pork belly. But for something iconic to the region, Wedemarks Café (wedemarks.se) is where the smörgåstårta was invented, a savoury layered ‘sandwich cake’ of rye bread, shrimps, salmon and pickled vegetables.

TRANSFORM

Chocolate ganache

a sauce for ice cream or as a chocolate fondue for berries.

TREAT

Jay Patel, co-founder of Legare restaurant

Legare is one of those ‘almost secret’ restaurants that has a very special atmosphere and equally special menu. It’s one of my favourites.

“I grew up in a fairly traditional East African-Indian household where food was a huge part of my life. Naturally, that love of eating turned into cooking and feeding others. With Legare the idea was simple – myself and my business partner (head chef) Matt wanted to create a great local Italian restaurant with a small seasonal menu and cosy atmosphere. The menu isn’t traditional but it is rooted in the ideals of Italian cooking: simple, seasonal, artisanal ingredients with a focus on hand-made dishes. We may use sobrasada de iberico instead of ’nduja, or maybe Greek olive oil instead of Sicilian, all based on what would work best with each dish. Our signature is our cannoli but my favourite is our orecchiette with fennel sausage ragu. It’s our take on Nancy Silverton’s signature dish and it’s such a special recipe.”legarelondon.com

A no-effort dessert hero, a ganache is made by pouring hot double cream over an equal weight of grated dark chocolate. It can be frosted over shop-bought cakes, chilled into instant truffles, heated into

Gurdeep Loyal is a food and drink trends specialist who built his career working at Harrods Food Halls, Innocent Drinks and M&S Food. He’s also a food writer and curator of online platform Mother Tongue. Find more recipes in Gurd’s new book, Mother Tongue. @gurd_loyal

THE MEASURE

Try summer whisky cocktails, vintage cider and a tequila negroni this month

HOME BAR HACKS

Sessionable summer drinks

The sweet spot when it comes to summer drinking is a refreshing tipple that delivers on flavour but is not so boozy that it leaves you feeling worse for wear in hot weather.

Low-ABV beers are a go-to – try Pastore’s Small Lemon Sour (£4.20/440ml, store. claptoncraft.co.uk), which is deliciously fresh and zingy with creamy lemon flavours.

For two-ingredient drinks – G&Ts, highballs – swap out your favourite spirit for a less alcoholic fortified wine. Try mixing sweet or blanc vermouth, white or tawny port with tonic; fino sherry with lemonade; or amontillado sherry with ginger ale.

On-trend non-alcoholic bitter aperitifs can also be used to boost flavour in cocktails – try swapping for your usual Aperol and Campari in spritzes, for example. We like 0%-alcohol stalwart Everleaf Mountain with its berry and floral notes (£20/50cl, amazon.co.uk), and newcomer Botivo with its bold bitterness and intense citrus notes (£26.95/50cl, shop.botivodrinks.com).

THIS MONTH WE’RE DRINKING...

Showerings Triple Vintage Cider (£45/12 x 375ml bottles, showeringscider.co.uk)

Consider this deliciously drinkable cider our go-to summer drink, made in Somerset using mostly Dabinett apples from a single orchard, aged and slowly fermented. It’s a blend of three different vintages, which adds depth and complexity, with masses of mellow juicy apple fruitiness and well-balanced medium dryness.

3-INGREDIENT COCKTAIL

Whisky vermouthandhighball

Super refreshing and simple to make, a highball is perfect for those who prefer lighter whisky cocktails. Its minimal formula – just whisky and sparkling water – also makes it really easy to adapt. Here we’ve added red vermouth for a hit of bittersweet complexity.

Put 50ml of blended scotch and 15ml of sweet red vermouth in a chilled highball glass filled with ice. Gently stir and top with around 75-100ml of sparkling water. Stir again and garnish with an orange twist.

PERFECT HOST

David Perry Glass Ceramics coaster (£15 each, glassette.com) Add some cheerful colour to aperitif hour with these handmade glass coasters – perfect for serving your alfresco drinks.

Where? Head downstairs at Soho’s decadent Argentinian restaurant, Sucre, to this sultry cocktail lounge, where a funky disco soul soundtrack adds to the 1970s vibe of the space.

What to order? The bittersweet Murano is a lighter, brighter take on a negroni, made with floral Malfy Gin Rosa and Electric Velvet liqueur for extra zing. Mama Quilla has the floral foaminess of a pisco sour with earthy mezcal, funky house fermented cassava wine and heat from Ancho Reyes Verde chilli liqueur. Try chef Fernando Trocca’s bar snacks such as empanada parcels filled with creamy aged cheddar, chilli and caramelised onions. almabysucre.com

Bartender’s tip

Tony Pescatori is the managing director of Alma Keeping its core 1:1:1 ratio and the Campari, negronis are easy to play around with, alternating different spirits instead of the classic gin, and sweet wine, sherry, sake or port in place of red vermouth.

Tequi-lazy-grony

In a large container, mix together 700ml bottles of blanco tequila, Campari and red vermouth, along with a few bags of earl grey tea, a handful of citrus peel, a pinch of salt and chilli, and a glass of water. Rest in the fridge overnight. Strain back into the original bottles and store in the freezer, ready to pour over ice or top with tonic or prosecco.

ALMA, SOHO, LONDON

GUINNESS, ALEX CROSSLEY. PHOTOGRAPHS: JONATHAN KANTOR/STOCKBYTE, LARRY WASHBURN FSTOP, BURKE CARUSO/PHOTODISC, BRENT HOFACKER/500PX, WIRATGASEM/MOMENT/GETTY

Enjoy creating a vast range of delicious meals and recipes with this powerful 1,000W food processor from Cooks Professional. You can chop, blend, mix, grate and so much more. This processor gives you all the convenience of a blender with the added bonus of a range of accessories that allow you to grind coffee beans or nuts, peel potatoes, mix dough, grate cheese and vegetables, as well as blend.

With a large 3.5-litre mixing bowl that has a 2-litre working capacity, and an 1.8-litre blender jug attachment, it’s quick and easy to make large quantities of fresh smoothies and plenty else for all the family to enjoy.

This is an excellent addition to any kitchen and is great for preparing meats, vegetables, dough and cake mixtures, jams, milkshakes and soups. Versatile yet compact, this food processor is perfect for those looking for a product that has all essential features without taking up all your precious worktop space.

ATTACHMENTS INCLUDED:

• 2-litre mixing and chopping bowl with food pusher

• 1.8-litre blending jug with access hole

• metal chopping blade

• plastic dough blade

• french fry cutting blade

• thick slice blade

• thin slice blade

• fine grating blade

• coarse grating blade

• plastic spatula

Available in either black and silver (G3483) or black and rose gold (G3485)

5-MINUTE WINE EXPERT with

PART 4: FOOD MATCHING BASICS

Kate Hawkings

Get the most out of what you’re drinking with our monthly crash course in wine. Next up, why matching food with wine is easier than you think

Oysters and chablis; steak and a beefy malbec; blue cheese with sauternes. Just a few of the classic food and wine combinations that become more than a sum of their parts.

While I think we should all drink what we like rather than sticking to rigid rules, it’s true that some things make much happier marriages than others. Matchmaking is often instinctive – we reach for fresh, dry whites with a zip of acidity for light, fresh food, especially if it’s lifted with a squeeze of lemon, or anything deep-fried and salty, whereas if you like heavy, tannic reds you’ll know they’ll go better with red meat, earthy pulses and hot spices.

Think about how the food is cooked, rather than the base ingredient, and try to balance the flavours and weight with the wine. Creamy sauces go well with whites with some richness – an oaked chardonnay or barrel-fermented white rioja, perhaps – while dishes involving cooked tomatoes are better with a bright young red like sangiovese or an unoaked tempranillo.

Anything with a bit of sweetness, such as the nectarine and chilli maple halloumi quinoa salad on p92 pairs well with a fruity chenin blanc or an off-dry riesling, which are both also really good with Thai and Vietnamese cuisines, while sweeter whites such as sauternes set off the saltiness of blue cheese brilliantly.

Barbecue wines should be versatile to go with whatever’s cooking. I’d reach for a fruity rosé or a light red such as a pinot noir or gamay, served a bit chilled, which would be good with meaty things as well as fish and veggie burgers.

My latest discovery for a left-field wine that goes with robust, flavoursome dishes such as the fried stuffed vine leaves (p15) and flatbread meze pizza (p16) is retsina, a Greek wine flavoured with pine resin. Kourtaki is the most famous brand, and is an affordable introduction to the style at £6 from Sainsbury’s, but it’s worth seeking out retsinas from more boutique wineries, too.

Omagazine.com

Ara Zero Sauvignon Blanc (£9, ocado.com) This scooped a gold medal at the World Alcohol-Free Awards. Lots of the tropical fruit and grapefruit zestiness that characterise the New Zealand sauvignon blancs that are perennially popular, it’s a great summery wine for non-drinkers – try it with the herby broad beans with fried eggs on p24.

Bulgarian Heritage

Dimyat Orange

Wine, Via Vinera 2020 (£8.50, thewinesociety.com)

Markou Schinopefko Retsina (£13, Amathus)

A modern retsina where the pine sits delicately against the floral and fruity aromatics of the native Savatiano grapes that make the base wine. Elegant and refreshing but with enough body to stand up to a variety of food. Serve it at a barbecue along with the peach and basil focaccia on p38.

SPEEDY SERVE Gimlet

Fantastic value for an easy-to-like orange wine, it has savoury nuttiness, peachy fruit and gentle spice. Versatile with many summer dishes, it would be an ace match with the swiss chard and tofu yellow curry on p20. The gimlet has its roots in the 19th century when Scottish shipyard owner, Lauchlin Rose, launched Rose’s Lime Juice

Cordial. The vitamin C in the lime juice kept scurvy at bay for the sailors who mixed it with their daily rations of rum. The officer classes preferred it with gin, which is what this drink is.

I love the simplicity of simply pouring 50ml of a juniper-led gin (Beefeater is my choice) in a tumbler over ice, then mixing in slightly less Rose’s lime cordial

• Learn more about wine at Omagazine.com, from new grapes worth trying to the best wine subscriptions.

KATE HAWKINGS IS A WRITER AND WINE CONSULTANT. HER LATEST BOOK, THE LITTLE BOOK OF APERITIFS: 50 CLASSIC COCKTAILS AND DELIGHTFUL DRINKS, IS OUT NOW (£10, QUADRILLE). FOLLOW HER ON TWITTER @KATEHAWKINGS

Words and recipes SUMAYYA USMANI

Pakistan is a land of diverse ethnicities and climates, and its cuisine is influenced by invasion, migration and its borders. From Arab, Mongol and Turkish invasions, to the borders of China, Central Asia, Afghanistan, Iran and India – this is a cuisine best described as a confluence of South Asia.

Days begin with rich breakfasts of halwa puri, nihari stew and spicy eggs, lunch is usually lighter, with dinner mostly eaten late. Eating out is a favourite pastime. Cuisine drives religious festivals such as Eid, and in Ramadan restaurants are closed during the day, opening at ‘Iftar’ (breaking fast), when streets are lined with pakora and samosa stalls.

There are marked provincial differences: Punjabi food is hearty and aromatic, infused with cardamom, saffron and cloves. Lahore, famous for street food with sizzling meat dishes and markets filled with spices. In southern coastal Sindh, Arab influences of barbecue and seafood are found. Western Balochistan is arid and barren land, and most eat spit-roasted meat and bejewelled rice in carcasses. Little spice is used, and meats are dusted with salt and pepper, as it is in northern Pakistan, with Central Asian dumplings and noodle soups, with Chinese influences of stir-frying, too.

Cities and village streets are alive with tandoor smoke and chaat snack stalls. In cities, people enjoy eating out – chicken tikkas, boti kebabs and other specialities such as kata-kat (offal chopped up with spices and tomatoes).

Food is the life blood of all Pakistanis, both the sharing and the eating of it.

Bundoo Khan-style chicken boti tikka

Family weekend trips to our favourite open-air barbecue restaurant meant we’d get to eat boti tikka with flatbreads and tamarind chutney – as the grown-up chat bored me, that was the only reason I’d willingly go along. The chicken tikka was always spicy and made my tummy rumble the minute I saw it.

I’d pull off pieces of the chicken meat, roll it up in hot naan and reach for the chutney. For this recipe you’ll need some bamboo skewers to thread the cubes of chicken on (remember to soak them for at least half an hour so they don’t get singed in the oven).

SERVES 4-6 | PREP 25 MINS PLUS MARINATING

COOK 30 MINS | EASY | GF

½ tsp chilli powder

½ tsp crushed black peppercorns

¼ tsp ground turmeric

1 tsp cumin seeds, roasted in a dry frying pan and ground

1 tsp coriander seeds, roasted in a dry frying pan and ground

½ tsp garam masala

½ tsp unsmoked paprika

3 garlic cloves, crushed 21/2cm ginger, finely grated juice of 1 lemon

4 skinless chicken breast fillets, cut into 2cm cubes

2-3 tbsp sunflower oil

TAMARIND CHUTNEY

100g dried tamarind

4-5 tbsp dark brown sugar

1 tsp cumin seeds, roasted in a dry frying pan

½ tsp crushed black peppercorns

½ tsp chilli powder

TO SERVE

basmati rice or naan

1 In a large bowl, mix the spices, garlic, ginger and salt to taste with the lemon juice. Add the chicken and coat well, then leave in the fridge to marinate for at least 1 hr but preferably overnight. In the meantime, soak 6 bamboo skewers in water and make the chutney. Put the tamarind into a small pan with 150ml of water, the sugar, spices and 1 tsp of salt. Bring to the boil and stir for 10-15 mins or until the tamarind breaks up and the sugar and salt have dissolved. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl, discarding the tamarind seeds and cumin seeds.

2 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4 and line a baking tray with baking paper. Thread about four chicken pieces onto each skewer, then put on the baking tray. Brush the chicken with oil and cook for 20-25 mins or until the chicken is brown around the edges and cooked through. Serve hot with the bowl of chutney alongside and your choice of basmati rice or naan.

PER SERVING 261 kcals | fat 7.2G

saturates 1.3G | carbs 22.4G | sugars 13.1G fibre 0.8G | protein 26.2G | salt 1G

Prawn karahi

Based on my maternal grandmother’s recipe, this is best made with fresh raw prawns rather than already cooked ones.

SERVES 4 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 20 MINS | EASY | GF

2 tbsp ghee or 1 tbsp unsalted butter with 1 tbsp sunflower oil

1 heaped tsp cumin seeds

½ tsp nigella seeds

½ tsp ajwain seeds (optional)

1cm ginger, finely grated

4 large ripe tomatoes, skins discarded, coarsely grated

2 tbsp concentrated tomato purée

¼ tsp ground turmeric

½ tsp kashmiri chilli powder or other chilli powder or paprika

450g shelled, deveined, fresh raw prawns

TO GARNISH

juice of ½ a lemon

21/2cm ginger, cut into fine strips

2 tbsp chopped coriander leaves

1 green chilli, deseeded and finely chopped

1 Put the ghee in a wok or frying pan over a medium-high heat and, when it is hot, fry the cumin, nigella and ajwain seeds (if using) for 1 min until fragrant.

2 Add the ginger and fry for 10-15 seconds or until fragrant, then stir in the tomatoes. Lower the heat slightly, add a splash of water and stir until it starts to simmer. Add the tomato purée, turmeric, chilli powder and salt to taste.

3 Keep cooking for 7-9 mins or until the sauce thickens and the oil begins to rise to the surface. Add the prawns and cook, stirring, for 3-4 mins or until they turn pink – be careful not to overcook the prawns or they will go rubbery.

4 Turn off the heat, add the garnishes and cover, leaving to infuse for a minute or so before serving.

PER SERVING 157 kcals | fat 8.6G saturates 4.6G | carbs 5.5G | sugars 5.5G fibre 2.5G | protein 13.1G | salt 1.2G

Street-side kulfi

SERVES 6-8 | PREP 15 MINS PLUS OVERNIGHT FREEZING COOK 6 MINS | EASY | GF

5-6 green cardamom pods, seeds extracted and ground 397g tin of sweetened condensed milk

500ml whole milk

4 tbsp ricotta

5 tbsp dried whole milk powder

1 tbsp cornflour

large pinch of saffron threads

1½ tbsp pistachios kernels, finely ground

1 tbsp ground almonds honey or sugar, to taste (optional) poppy seeds, to decorate

1 Whizz the cardamom, milks, ricotta, milk powder and cornflour in a blender or food processor until combined. Pour the mixture into a pan and warm over a low heat, stirring for 15-20 mins or until the mixture thickens. Stir in the saffron, half the pistachios and half the almonds. Let them warm through, then take the pan off the heat.

2 When the mixture has cooled slightly, taste it and adjust the sweetness by adding honey or sugar, if you like, then leave to cool to room temperature.

3 Pour the cooled mixture into kulfi moulds, then seal and freeze overnight. You could also use cones made from baking paper to make kulfi on a stick: stand each cone upright in a small glass and pour in the mixture to the top of the cone. Let them semi-freeze for an hour or two before inserting a lolly stick into each one.

4 When ready to serve, if using moulds, dip them into warm water to help ease out the kulfi. If using paper cones, gently peel the paper away. Roll the kulfi through the poppy seeds and the remaining ground pistachios and almonds to decorate, then eat straight away.

PER SERVING 269 kcals | fat 11.1G | saturates 5.7G carbs 33.1G | sugars 31.3G | fibre 0.3G | protein 9.1G | salt 0.2G

Recipes extracted from Andaza: A Memoir of Food, Flavour and Freedom in the Pakistani Kitchen by Sumayya Usmani (£25, Murdoch Books).

Photographs: Jodi Wilson. Recipes are sent by the publisher and not retested by us.

1GEOGRAPHY

THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT

10 Indonesian food and cooking

Chef, food writer and supper club founder, Rahel Stephanie, shares her expert knowledge on the O podcast

Indonesia is made up of some 17,000 islands and more than 300 different ethnicities. Naturally, its diversity is reflected in the country’s cuisine – and not just the cuisine but the heritage, art, music, everything really.

2SATAY

In Indonesian, the word satay just refers to any skewered dish. Here you’ll find it in the form of satay salad and satay marinade or sauce, all with no skewer in sight. The misconception is the equation of satay with peanut sauce. The Jakarta Post counted 252 unique sate (the original Indonesian spelling) varieties in Indonesia, so it baffles me why the humble peanut version has stuck in the UK.

3SAMBAL

We love our sambal. A spicy sauce made from chilli peppers, it is a staple in many Indonesian dishes. Often people equate a sambal to a spicy red sauce. However, we have

more than 200 different kinds that aren’t necessarily red, from West Sumatran green chilli sambal to the beautiful raw and fragrant Balinese sambal. You might say an Indonesian meal is incomplete without a side of sambal.

4TEMPEH

Tempeh is a popular vegan ingredient but most people aren’t aware of its ancient Indonesian origins. Over the years, I’ve seen the growing popularity and Westernisation of it as a superfood and meat substitute. Its humble roots are far from this: it was eaten by those who were not able to afford meat as a cheap source of protein, and its creation from a traditional zero-waste culture was more from necessity than choice.

5

RICE

There is a saying in Indonesia, if you haven’t eaten rice, you haven’t eaten a meal. We could have rice for all meals, breakfast, lunch, dinner. Since we’re one of the world’s biggest

producers of rice, the government established a nationwide campaign called beras-isasi a few decades ago, which translates as ‘rice-ification’, to encourage rice consumption in the 90s. This ended up defining rice as a vital component to a balanced diet.

6COCONUT

Indonesia is the world’s largest producer of coconuts and they are present throughout so many dishes in our cuisine. We have the water of a young coconut as a refreshing drink along with bits of its flesh for a chewy bite. We grate the flesh of mature coconuts and use it in lots of dishes including salad dressings. We use coconut milk and coconut cream to make all sorts of dishes, from curries to cakes, baked desserts and shaved ice.

7SPICES

Nutmeg and cloves originated from Indonesia, specifically from the Maluku Islands (also known as the Spice Islands),

from far left

Coconuts are used throughout Indonesian cooking; a floating market in Banjarmasin city in South Kalimantan; the

which are located in the eastern part of the country. Today, Indonesia is still one of the largest producers of nutmeg and cloves in the world. Cloves are an important spice in Indonesian cuisine and are used in a variety of dishes, as well as in traditional medicine.

8BUMBU

Bumbu can be considered the foundation of Indonesian cuisine. It is a spice paste that typically includes garlic, shallots, chillies, lemongrass, galangal, turmeric and coriander. It is used to add flavour, aroma and complexity to dishes and is often the key to achieving the unique taste of Indonesian cuisine. Many dishes, such as rendang, satay, and nasi goreng, rely heavily on bumbu for their flavours.

9BALANCE

Many Indonesian dishes are based on the concept of balancing flavours. The five basic tastes – sweet, sour, salty, bitter and umami –are all incorporated into dishes to create a harmonious and balanced flavour profile.

10COMMUNAL EATING

One of the most distinctive traits of Indonesian dining is that meals are always consumed in company. We have a phrase, makan tengah, which translates to ‘eating in the middle’ – having a spread of dishes across the table – though, traditionally, Indonesians would sit on the floor and food would be served to share on a banana leaf or a wooden plate, demonstrating a strong sense of communal dining.

To listen to the full podcast with Rahel, scan the QR code or find it via Omagazine.com, Acast, iTunes or your favourite podcast provider

Jatiluwih rice terraces in Bali

Rahel Stephanie is a food writer, presenter, chef and founder of plant-based supper club Spoons, which she began in 2019 and is now so popular it regularly sells out in minutes. Rahel aims to put authentic Indonesian cooking firmly on the map and share the cuisine of her heritage with a wider audience. @eatwithsp00ns

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(Plants may not be the same height)

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Classic-looking, long-lasting, sturdy plastic planter that is ideal for larger single specimens such as palms, or for bright and bold bedding plants. Finished with a lovely metallic silver paint it is also UV and weather resistant. Diameter: 36cm (14.5in) round. Volume of compost: 28 litres. CODE: 130127

BLOOD ORANGE CITRUS

Pick your own delicious blood oranges and add a Mediterranean feel to your home or garden. This tree will also produce fragrant white blossom during late spring and early summer, with wonderfully sweet blood oranges ready for you to pick from October each year. Supplied as an established plant in a 6-litre pot, approx 100cm tall, growing to a height of 2m (6½ft) and spread of 1.5m (5ft). CODE: 340042

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UNWIND

The Greyhound shares a relaxed pub menu to create at home, chef Kwoklyn Wan invites us into his Cantonese-inspired home kitchen, and Rosie Birkett brings the summer vibes with her must-make nectarine and halloumi salad

Modern, locally sourced British food and quirky interiors make this 17th century Buckinghamshire coaching inn a next-level dining destination

Smoked eel and watercress

SERVES 4 | PREP 25 MINS PLUS OVERNIGHT STRAINING COOK 25 MINS | MORE EFFORT

300g natural yogurt

40g celeriac, peeled and cut into 1cm cubes

150g smoked eel, cut into 1cm pieces edible flowers, to garnish

WATERCRESS VELOUTÉ

1 small potato, peeled and sliced

1 small onion, sliced

4 garlic cloves, crushed

25ml vegetable oil

150g watercress

PICKLED CELERY

50ml white wine vinegar

50g sugar

3 celery sticks, peeled and cut into matchsticks

1 Put the yogurt in a strainer lined with muslin over a bowl and leave overnight in the fridge to remove excess moisture.

2 Cook the potato, onion and garlic in the oil in a large pan over a medium heat for 5 mins until softened. Pour in 500ml of water, bring to the boil, then turn down to a simmer for 6-8 mins. Once the potato is cooked, bring to the boil again and add the watercress. Transfer to a blender and combine until smooth. Pass through a sieve, then chill until needed.

3 Put vinegar and sugar in a pan with 100ml of water, and bring to a boil. Add the celery, turn off the heat, cover and leave to cool.

4 Cook the celeriac in boiling salted water for 4-5 mins, then drain.

5 To plate up, arrange the eel, celeriac and celery on plates. Pipe on some of the strained yogurt. Pour over the watercress velouté and garnish with the flowers.

PER SERVING 224 kcals | fat 11.8G

saturates 3.1G | carbs 12.1G | sugars 4.8G

fibre 4.7G | protein 14.9G | salt 1.8G

Limoncello posset

SERVES 4 | PREP 10 MINS PLUS INFUSING AND CHILLING

COOK 15 MINS | EASY

LEMON POSSET

450ml double cream

100g caster sugar

2-3 lemons, 1 zested and the rest juiced

LIMONCELLO JELLY

40g caster sugar

30ml lemon juice

1 gelatine leaf, soaked in ice-cold water

50ml limoncello

CANDIED LEMON ZEST

1 lemon

50g caster sugar

strawberries, sliced, to serve

1 For the posset, bring the cream, sugar and lemon zest to the boil in a pan, then remove from the heat and leave to infuse for 30 mins. Add 100ml of the lemon juice, then bring back to the boil. Simmer gently for 2-3 mins until the mixture starts to thicken. Pass through a fine sieve, then leave to cool slightly before dividing between four ramekins. Transfer to the fridge for 3 hrs to chill completely.

2 To make the jelly, dissolve the sugar in 60ml of water and the lemon juice over a low-medium heat for 2-3 mins. Remove from the heat. Squeeze the water out of the gelatine and stir into the lemon mixture until dissolved. Set aside for 1 hr to cool to room temperature, then pour in the limoncello. Pour the jelly directly on top of the chilled possets, then leave to set in the fridge for 3 hrs.

3 Peel the lemon zest and cut into thin strips, removing any white pith. Combine the sugar with 100ml of water in a small pan and heat over a low-medium heat until the sugar has dissolved. Add the zest and cook for 2 mins. Remove from the heat and keep in the syrup. Drain completely before using. Will keep for up to a month.

4 To serve, put a few strips of candied zest on top along with some sliced strawberries.

PER SERVING 747 kcals | fat 60.4G

saturates 37.6G | carbs 44.1G | sugars 44.1G fibre 0.3G | protein 2.3G | salt 0.1G

Grilled pork chop with baby artichoke and pickled onion

SERVES 4 | PREP 35 PLUS COOLING AND RESTING COOK 1 HR 45 MINS | MORE EFFORT

4 x 150g pork chops

1 tbsp olive oil

3 cavolo nero leaves

1/2 tsp olive oil

1/2 tsp sherry vinegar

CELERIAC PURÉE

2 tbsp olive oil

250g celeriac, peeled and diced

185ml double cream

CHICKEN SAUCE

500ml good-quality chicken stock

2 tbsp olive oil

200g shallots, sliced

120g button mushrooms, sliced

75ml white wine

50ml madeira wine

2 sprigs thyme

1 Granny Smith apple, cored, peeled and finely diced

ARTICHOKES

2 baby artichokes

190ml white wine

75ml white wine vinegar

2 tsp coriander seeds

1 star anise

2 tsp fennel seeds

CHIVE OIL

50ml vegetable oil

15g chives

PICKLED ONION

100ml white wine vinegar

100g sugar

few sprigs of thyme

1 star anise

5 whole black peppercorns

5 coriander seeds

1 onion, peeled and cut into petal shapes

1 For the purée, pour the oil into a large pan over a lowmedium heat. Add the celeriac and a large pinch of salt. Cover with a lid and cook gently for 20-25 mins, stirring often, until the celeriac is soft. Meanwhile, simmer the cream over a medium-low heat for 10 mins until reduced by half. Transfer the celeriac and cream to a high-powered blender, season well, and blitz until smooth – add 2-3 tbsp of water if it’s too thick. Pass through a sieve into a bowl to remove any lumps, then cover and set aside.

2 To make the chicken sauce, bring the stock to the boil in a pan, then simmer for 15 mins until reduced by half. Heat the olive oil in a large pan over a medium heat and cook the shallots and mushrooms for 3-4 mins or until softened and starting to colour. Add the wines and cook for 5 mins until reduced by half. Add the stock and thyme, then continue to reduce until you get a glossy sauce. Pass through a sieve and combine with the diced apple.

3 Remove a few layers of the artichoke flowers and peel the stalks. Put all the ingredients for the artichokes, plus 2 tsp of salt and 500ml of water, in a medium pan, and bring to the boil. Turn down to a simmer and cook for 15 mins. Check the artichoke by piercing with a small knife – it should be easy to penetrate. Remove from the heat, still in the liquid, and leave to cool. Once cool, cut the artichokes into halves and use a small spoon to scoop out the middles.

4 For the chive oil, gently heat the oil in a pan. Leave to cool a little, then tip into a blender with the chives and blitz for 3 mins. Pour into a bowl set over ice to chill. Once completely chilled, pass through a muslin cloth.

5 Put all the pickling ingredients, bar the onion, in a pan along with 100ml of water and 3 tbsp of salt, and bring to the boil. Remove from the heat. Add the onion petals, cover and leave to marinate for at least 1 hr before serving. Will keep for up to a week.

6 Heat a frying pan over a high heat. Hold the pork fat-side down in the pan until some of the fat has rendered. Fry the chops for 3 mins on each side with 1 tbsp oil. Remove from the heat, loosely cover and leave to rest.

7 For the cavolo nero, start by removing each leaf and taking the hard stems out. Cut into 10cm strips and briefly blanch in a pan of boiling water. Remove, plunge into icecold water, then drain and toss in the olive oil and vinegar.

8 To serve, put a dollop of the purée on serving plates. Top with the chops, an artichoke half, a drizzle of the chicken sauce, onion petals, cavolo nero and a drizzle of chive oil.

PER SERVING 787 kcals | fat 60G saturates 20.8G | carbs 8.2G | sugars 6.5G fibre 9.3G | protein 47.2G | salt 1.9G

From the brains of Master of Culinary Arts, Daniel Crump (pictured) and Margriet Vandezande-Crump, it’s no surprise that The Greyhound is a pub a cut above the rest. With thoughtful touches such as personalised napkin rings for repeat visitors and resident dog, Truffle, it truly feels like a local with the customer in mind – and that’s before we’ve even got to the caramelised butter! greyhoundbeaconsfield.co.uk

My name is Kwoklyn Wan and I’m a third-generation restaurateur and Cantonese chef. I have now moved away from the restaurant business and instead use my knowledge and passion for Chinese food to teach people how to cook their favourite Chinese dishes via my cookbooks and on television.

Just over a year ago, my wife Jo and I bought my parents’ old restaurant, which is on the outskirts of Leicester city centre in a 130-year-old three-storey Victorian end-terrace, which we are slowly renovating back to its former splendour as our home. First to be fully renovated is our beautifully spacious kitchen and dining room, brightly lit from the bay windows at one end and looking down the long room towards the centre island kitchen area, all overseen by our mysterious wise man Jin, a terracotta ornament of an old Chinese wise man who sits watchfully on a local railroad sleeper above the sink area.

One of the biggest reasons we bought our property was its size – with such a wide variety of rooms and levels to play with, and all very spacious with high ceilings, as was fashionable at the time it was built. The kitchen truly is the heart of our home and where we spend most of our time, so it needed a few special features for it to work for us.

The first of these was a large centre island where we could cook and still be able to entertain our family and friends, so our hob faces into the room giving us the freedom to be cooking and still enjoy the company of our guests. The second was the dining space – we wanted a kitchen that could also fit in our large South African railroad sleeper wood dining table. We love to entertain so a big table that seats eight to 10 people was a must. Third was a walk-in pantry – having lived in smaller properties where kitchen cupboards were always packed with ingredients and mystery bottles, we had a very clear vision of the old-style walk-in pantries where everything is visible on open shelves.

We are forever developing new recipes, so our pantry had to be big enough to allow us to scan around and see everything at a glance. And lastly on our wish list, and thankfully the amazing space lent itself perfectly to this use, was a separate utility area where we could put all the dirty pots after a cooking marathon and deal with them after our guests have left.

My wife and I designed our kitchen after chatting with our builder and the design team at our local kitchen showroom. During the build, there were plenty of lows, as once you start to renovate a 130-year-old property you unearth so many hidden problems that you didn’t anticipate. Even though it took twice as long as we had hoped and cost twice as much as we’d originally budgeted, we totally love our kitchen-diner. I would encourage anyone to design their own kitchen and the best way is taking time to think about how you move around your kitchen. Having a space big enough to move freely, entertain guests and hide the pots after cooking is, in my opinion, the perfect kitchen layout. There are just two things I would change in the kitchen –an even bigger centre island and a gas hob, but our home is now gas free and I’ve adapted my cooking style to suit the induction hob, plus it’s lovely to wipe clean.

My favourite memory is from Christmas 2022 – it was our first year in our new kitchen and we had all of my family join us for a traditional turkey roast. It was so lovely to get all of us back into this amazing Victorian property again, but as our home, instead of a restaurant. We all have so many memories working in this space, and this was the first time in more than 40 years that we had all had a chance to enjoy the space as a family home.

clockwise from top left Kwoklyn’s traditional Chinese crockery and ornaments; the pantry was designed so they could see each ingredient on open shelves; the family love to entertain and gather people around the railway sleeper dining table

Essential kitchen kit?

A large wok, large chopping board and my trusty chopper.

What’s always in your fridge?

Chicken breasts, as I’m on a high-protein diet, and sriracha and oyster sauce, as they make everything taste great.

Is there a family dish you cook again and again?

Hong Kong-style springy, chewy noodles in a clear broth served with Chinese leaf, tofu rolls, shredded chicken and, of course, sriracha.

Give us a recipe in a sentence, maybe something you eat when you’re on your own?

Pork chops marinated in five-spice powder, light soy sauce, oil and black pepper, air fried for 20 minutes until the crackling is crunchy and the pork tender.

Can you share a clever shortcut, cheat or hack that makes entertaining more effortless?

Preparation is key – unfortunately if you want to entertain you have to do some work, so do this before your guests arrive. Then you can enjoy your guests’ company without having to disappear into the kitchen too often.

Favourite cookbook?

I know I shouldn’t but I love my first cookbook, Chinese Takeaway Cookbook. Not only does it have all of my favourite dishes but as I wrote it I was able to relive every single dish growing up in my parents’ restaurant. It really does feel like part of the family.

Favourite restaurant?

My absolute favourite restaurant is Rothley Fisheries in Leicester – they do the very best fish, chips and curry sauce. My all-time favourite cheat meal.

Favourite travel destination?

I’m a wanderer so when we do a holiday we like to explore – at the moment we are making our way across America, but New Orleans is right up there as a favourite so far.

This year’s best food discovery

Pot liquor and southern-style cornbread. If you ever visit the southern states of America, you have to try these two together.

What do you cook when you want to unwind?

If there was ever such a thing as Anglo-Chinese soul food it would be rice with lashings of gravy – perfect simple food to unwind with.

Reasons to be cheerful in 2023?

My wife and I are pretty healthy, pretty fit and we are totally in love with each other. I’m the luckiest man on Earth.

LOVE KWOKLYN’S KITCHEN? TURN OVER TO GET THE LOOK

Will you serve yours straight?

Discover the delectable taste of Mionetto Prosecco this summer.

With its refreshing fruity notes and crisp, dry finish, it’s perfect for every occasion.

1 Spanish ceramic lebrillo medium bowl, £48, lesser-spotted.co.uk | 2 Vintage laughing Buddha holding five children, £74.92, etsy.com | 3 NuWave Brio three-quart digital air fryer, £234.46, amazon.co.uk | 4 Ripples blue wall tile, £56.16 per box, porcelainsuperstore.co.uk | 5 Astro Thurso oval outdoor wall light, £179.90, lights.co.uk | 6 Flora Flight ginger jar, £36.50, trouva.com

7 Blue rice spoon, 14cm, £2.50, souschef.co.uk | 8 Serax cactus vase, £104, nordicnest.com | 9 Russell Hobbs K65 Anniversary copper kettle, £64.99, currys.co.uk | 10 Mini 4.5 inch cleaver knife, £97, dalstrong.co.uk | 11 12-piece black Coupe ceramic dinner set , £79.99, cookserveenjoy.com

Glenmorangie House, Scotland

Boldly beautiful, this 17th century house looking out over the stunning Moray Firth has been given a maximalist makeover, with a creative Highlands menu to match

What makes it unique

The appeal of Glenmorangie House goes way beyond whisky. With only six bedrooms and three cottages, and warmly attentive staff who’ll soon know how you take your tea, the stay here is designed to feel more house party than hotel. The dining room has one large table, cocktails are taken together before eating, and evening entertainment in the form of music, mixology or stargazing is arranged to make the most of the company. The interiors, by designer Russell Sage, tell the story of Glenmorangie whisky with maximalist styling, sensory interpretation and more than the occasional surprise.

On the ground floor, each room represents the ingredients of whisky – the beautiful Morning Room is swathed in gold, with meadows of flowers on the walls and artwork made from barley. Upstairs, bedrooms explore Glenmorangie’s signature blends. Reserve is a desert island shipwreck, while Nectar is a French patisserie. A further three cottages behind the main house immerse guests in the whisky-making process.

On the menu

Head chef John Wilson creates Glenmorangie food pairings, dishes that are enhanced by, and in turn enhance the flavours of, each whisky.

There are all the Scottish treats you’d hope for, with rich haggis en croûte in a velvety whisky sauce. Surrounded by pristine Scottish waters you can expect fresh langoustine, lobsters and scallops, too. Your bacon, sausages and black pudding for breakfast travel just three miles from a local artisan, and some of the fruit, vegetables and herbs are picked outside the dining room window in the handsome walled garden. A project, Russell Sage’s first garden, is underway in keeping with the new-look house.

Recreate at home

Thanks to the carefully planned design and the eclectic collection of local arts and crafts, there are new details to discover wherever you turn. While the clashing colours, patterns and textures could be overwhelming at home, you might feel liberated by the more is more approach. It’s the unusual juxtapositions that make you look twice and appreciate things anew. Seating in the snug mixes traditional tartan upholstery with bright plain seat pads, antique bud vases are displayed with different seed heads and lichen like prized blooms. The giraffe is something of a mascot here – they pop up when you least expect them. Rooms from £1,347 for three nights. glenmorangie.com

Kitchen therapy with Rosie Birkett

Nectarines shine in this bountiful salad that makes the most of seasonal stone fruit

Stone fruit is one of the biggest thrills of the summer for me, and the minute the very first ripe apricots, nectarines and peaches show up in their blush-cheeked splendour at the greengrocer, I start to load up, buying in bulk and filling bowls dotted about the kitchen. And as much as I love the abundance and beauty of these summer specimens, it’s not just for show. We get through kilos and kilos in summer. Our daughter finishes almost every meal at this time of year with a destoned, juicy fleshed fruit, and my heart swells to watch her savouring the sweet pleasure of peak season fruit at every meal, the sweet syrup spilling down her chin. More often than not I’ll join her, standing over the sink (because unlike her I don’t own a bib), and in the unlikely event that some fruit might go over in the bowl, it’ll get puréed for bellinis, jammed to eke out the season, or melted down into syrups for soft drinks and cakes.

As well as being wonderful for sweet dishes, ripe stone fruit is amazing in salads and snacky lunches. I am a long-standing lover of peachy panzanellas, ricotta and stone fruit bruschettas, and this recipe draws on one of my favourite synergies – that of nectarines and halloumi. The salty, squeaky cheese just works so beautifully alongside the sweet acidity and soft flesh of the fruit, and the heat of red chilli melded with maple is used to glaze the cheese, which is then grilled until yielding and caramelised, bringing everything together.

This way of scoring halloumi before grilling it was something I learned from the wonderful Greek Cypriot food writer Georgina Hayden, whose recipe for grilled halloumi with caramelised figs is also a firm favourite in our house in late summer. In this recipe my chilli- and maple-glazed halloumi is tumbled on top of a nutty, tabbouleh-esque herby quinoa salad, which is finished with a lemony olive oil dressing. If that doesn’t say ‘peak summer’ to you, I don’t know what does.

Nectarine and chilli maple halloumi quinoa salad

SERVES 4 | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 10 MINS | EASY

DRESSING

1 shallot or small red onion, finely diced

1/2 a lemon, zested and juiced

2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

QUINOA SALAD

3 ripe nectarines

250g cooked quinoa (I like the dual or tricolour)

small bunch of mint, leaves only, roughly chopped handful of flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped

30g roasted blanched hazelnuts, roughly chopped

50g rocket

CHILLI MAPLE HALLOUMI

2 tbsp olive oil

1 tbsp maple syrup

1 tsp dried chilli flakes (I use pul biber)

2 x 200g halloumi

1 Put the shallot into a bowl and season with a good pinch of sea salt, then pour over the lemon juice and zest, and whisk in the olive oil. Taste and season. Destone and slice the nectarines, then combine the cooked quinoa with most of the herbs, most of the nuts, the rocket and nectarine, and dress with the dressing.

2 Whisk together the olive oil, maple syrup and chilli flakes, then use a sharp knife to deeply score the tops of the halloumi in a cross-hatch pattern roughly 2cm deep, being careful not to go all the way through. Put them on foil in a roasting tray and brush them generously with the chilli maple oil. Heat the grill to its highest setting and grill for 6-8 mins or until deeply caramelised and softened, basting occasionally with a little more maple oil.

3 When the halloumi is done, tip any grill juices into the salad and toss, then cut up the halloumi into equal-sized pieces. Divide the quinoa salad between plates and top with the halloumi. Scatter over extra hazelnuts and herbs.

PER SERVING 599 kcals | fat 40.8G saturates 18.7G | carbs 25.9G | sugars 14.2G fibre 4.6G | protein 29.6G | salt 3G

Rosie Birkett is an award-winning food and cookery writer, food stylist and cookbook author based in London and on the Kent coast. Follow Rosie on Substack at rosiebirkett.substack.com

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SHOW OFF

Warm laminated milk bread

MAKES 1 LOAF | PREP 1 HR 30 MINS PLUS TWO DAYS OVERNIGHT CHILLING AND PROVING COOK 15 MINS | MORE EFFORT

500g plain flour, plus extra for dusting

10g honey

10g salt

7g fresh yeast, crumbled

350g whole milk, cold

120g unsalted butter, cold, plus 20g softened, and extra to serve

1 beaten egg, for brushing

1 Tip all of the ingredients, except the butter and egg, into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook, and mix

slowly for 4 mins on speed 1. Turn up the mixer to speed 2 and knead for 4 mins. Reduce the speed back to speed 1 and add the softened butter, kneading for 4 mins. Turn the speed back up again and knead for another 4 mins – by now you should have a smooth dough that pulls away from the sides of the bowl but is still a little sticky. Cover and chill overnight.

2 The next day, squash any air from the dough by pushing your fist into it, then tip out onto a lightly floured worksurface and roll into a long rectangle (about 20cm x 30cm) using a rolling pin.

3 Roll out the cold butter between two sheets of baking paper into a flat rectangle that’s just under half the size of the dough. Sit the butter rectangle on the bottom half of the dough rectangle, making sure there is a 1cm border around the edge of the butter. Fold the other half of the dough over the butter to enclose it and seal the edges. Carefully, and with even pressure, roll the dough out into a rectangle again, with one of the short ends facing you. Fold the top half of the dough down to the centre and bring the bottom up to meet it, then fold the dough in half along the join so you have four layers of dough. Wrap and chill for 1 hr.

4 Take out the dough, put it back in front of you as if you’d just folded it, then turn it by 90 degrees. Roll it out into a rectangle again, and fold the top third down. Bring the bottom third up over the top, wrap and chill for 1 hr.

5 Roll the dough out until it is 6mm thick, then cut into long 4cm-wide strips (you might have to trim the edges straight, keeping the offcuts) and roll up into spirals. Arrange the spiral rolls side by side in loaf tins, or put one in each hole of a muffin tin (you can bake the offcuts in a muffin tin, too). Or roll the strips up from both ends in opposite directions to make an S-shape (as in picture). Arrange two rolls in a buttered 12-13cm shallow cake tin (you will end up with four batches but you can also make a bigger loaf by using a larger cake tin). Cover and chill overnight.

6 The next day, take the rolls out of the fridge and leave to prove until doubled in size (this may take a couple of hours). Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 4. Brush the tops of the rolls with the beaten egg and bake for 10-20 mins or until the rolls are puffed up and golden on top – keep an eye on the timing, as it will depend on which tin you have used. Cool for 5 mins in the tin before lifting out and serving with more butter.

PER SERVING (10) 315 kcals | fat 13.5G saturates 8.3G | carbs 40.9G | sugars 2.6G fibre 2G | protein 6.5G | salt 1G

Turn over to see Studio Frantzén’s bread in all its glory

SHOW OFF

Studio Frantzén’s warm laminated milk bread

(recipe on p97)

This light, fluffy croissant-bread hybrid is made by folding (and refolding) butter-rich dough – it’s a heavenly way to start any meal. Studio Frantzén’s (find the restaurant within Harrods) version tops the class, and is served with blond miso and honey butter. studiofrantzenlondon.com

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