Uphill switchbacks

From your local trail centre to remote high-alpine paths, switchbacks are a necessity for trail builders seeking to steer our favourite tracks up steep mountainsides. Former downhill and enduro world champ Tracy Moseley explains how to negotiate them with confidence.

EYES UP

Set up as wide as you can with your front wheel. As you approach the corner, lift your head and eyes and look around the turn to spot your exit line.

PICK A GEAR

Select a gear that allows you to pedal around the whole turn so that you don’t have to shift mid corner, losing precious speed and balance.

S TAY S M O O T H

As you get to the crux of the corner, commit to the move and attack the pedals if power is needed. You can lightly drag the rear brake to aid slow-speed control.

DOWN AND OUT

Be ready to shift your weight forward by moving to the front of the saddle and dropping your elbows. This will keep the front wheel down as you exit.

bike set-up

Some small tweaks to your set-up can really help when it comes to tackling uphill hairpins.

SADDLE ANGLE Having your saddle level will stop you sliding off the rear when riding uphill. It’ll also allow you to shift your weight forward more easily when you need to and help keep you balanced in the centre of the bike.

SADDLE HEIGHT When you’re learning to ride switchbacks, dropping your saddle a centimetre or two (if you have a dropper post) just as you reach the turn will allow you to move around the bike a fraction more, helping you to keep your balance. When you’ve mastered the skill, try to ride at your normal seat height to maximise your power and efficiency.

SHOCK SETUP If your rear shock has a ‘climb switch’ or ‘pedal lever’, you can use it to firm up your suspension. As well as reducing energy-sapping pedal bob (useful on long uphill drags), this will help your bike maintain its static (unsagged) geometry. With the rear suspension riding higher in its travel, you should find it easier to get around tight uphill turns.

FORE/AFT POSITION Move your saddle along the rails until you find the spot where your knee is directly above the pedal axle with the crank arm in the 3 o’clock position. Sit further forwards than this and your knee will be in a weaker position, further back and you’ll lose weight over the front wheel.

TIGHT TURNS

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EXIT SPEED

The final turn is what matters in a sequence of corners. You want to be in the right place and gear to power out of it. If safe to do so, go back and practise the section until you get what you want out of it. Try new lines and experiment.

LEAN

Drop your inside knee slightly and direct your hips, torso and head in the direction you want to go. Assist the lean by putting pressure on the handlebar, particularly the inside grip. Don’t hang off the back of the bike – find a balanced position between both wheels.

LINE CHOICE

The main line may not be the best, so look around and be creative. In tight turns, look for a way to open up the angle. Identify the widest (smooth) line into the corner – this may mean hopping onto the outside bank. Then aim for the apex.

RECCE

Check out tricky sections on foot first. This will help you identify lines and hazards, and let you see what comes after the turns, which will help with gear choice and exit lines. Working your way up from the bottom can teach you a lot about where you want to end up.

ENTRY SPEED

Good control in the first turn will set you up for the next one. Get your braking done in the straight line before the turn and try to be off the brakes when you hit the apex or change direction. Dragging your brakes hinders traction and makes it hard to lean the bike.

BUMP JUMP

Jumping a bike isn’t just great fun, it’s practical too. Bump jumping uses similar skills to bunnyhopping, and can be used to get the bike airborne and pop over obstacles on the trail. Once you’ve got the technique nailed, you’ll be able to find take-offs and landings on every trail you ride, increasing your speed as you go.

When you use a combination of pumping, manualling and bump jumping, it’s possible to take sections of trail at high speed with relative ease, when other riders might be pedalling and grabbing handfuls of brake.

T H E TA K E O F F

Even a small root is enough to get a couple of feet in the air. Don’t start with anything too big or square though, or the kick will be quite harsh. Begin with a small root and work on your timing – this is key in gaining decent air while maintaining control.

L A N D I N G ZONE

As soon as you’ve taken off you should be looking at the landing zone and preparing to land the bike as softly as possible.

COMPRESS Pulling up at the right moment is vital, so be ready by compressing beforehand, ready to spring upwards on the bike. 1

REAR WHEEL PICKUP Let your legs come up underneath you to allow the rear wheel to get airborne. 4

BUMP IT Pull up just before the front wheel hits the root and as the wheel hits the root, will amplify what you’re doing. 2

STAND TALL Stand tall on the bike, un-weighting the rear wheel as it hits the bump. 3

EVEN OUT When you’re in the air now, you need to reposition to prepare for landing. Come up on the bike and find your landing area. 5

SOFTEN THE BLOW If you can, find a transition – even the smallest of banks will help. If not, use every bit of your body to absorb the impact. 6