495
$
LATE NIGHT BITES •
ANGELO BROCATO’S •
Q&A WITH TOM FITZMORRIS •
THE STANDARD
AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 2018 VOL. 5, NO. 4
INSIDEPUB.com
IN THIS ISSUE
August-September 2018
Vol. 5, No. 4
Publisher Lori Murphy –––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Editor-in-Chief Anne Honeywell
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fax (504) 934-7721 Artist Jax Frey. Find more on page 16.
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INSIDE NEW ORLEANS is published bi-monthly (February, April, June, August, October, December) by M and L Publishing, LLC, PO Box 6048, Metairie, LA 70009 as a means of communication and information for greater New Orleans, Louisiana. Bulk Postage paid - New Orleans, LA. Copyright ©2018 by M & L Publishing, LLC. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written consent of publisher. Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts and artwork. Inside New Orleans Magazine is created using the Adobe Creative Suite on Apple Macintosh computers.
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Inside New Orleans
page 28
contents table of
page 32
page 74
Features 16 Artistic Free Spirit Cover Artist Jax Frey 28 A Kitchen Fit for a Restaurateur 32 Late Night Bites 38 Q & A with Tom Fitzmorris 42 Angelo Brocato’s A New Orleans Institution Since 1905 66 “Good City” Bienville: Planting the Seeds 82 Preventing Knee Injuries
page 42 8
Inside New Orleans
Menu Guide
Begins on page 45
contents table of
page 74
Departments
12 Publisher’s Note 14 Editor’s Note
83 IN Better Health with Lenderay Wilson, Jr.
15 Contributors
84 IN Love & Marriage
20 INside Scoop
86 INside Peek Featuring: Palm Beach Island Dancing in the Moonlight Opening Night of The New Orleans Shakespeare Festival at Tulane 92 IN Great Taste Steak Tartare
26 INside Story Legendary Galatoire’s 31 Wine Cellar Champagne 71 Flourishes Extraordinary gifts and home accents 74 INside Look 78 IN Development The Standard at South Market
page 92
94 INside Dining 98 At the Table Summer Specials
Return the Favor by Lori Murphy
Tammy and Pat O’Shea met ten years ago, and it was fun from the start. His joie de vivre was infectious. When they got married six years ago, it was a next chapter for both of them. There were his children, her children and a shared grandchild to come. I knew Pat as that man. I never knew the much-celebrated baseball coach he had been forty years ago. But so many did. A graduate of Jesuit and an 18-year baseball coach at Archbishop Shaw, his network of friends, mentors, students and admirers is vast and wide. When he got sick, they came out to support him. It was a comfort to his family and to Tammy, most of all. Through their memories, she learned details he never shared and appreciated habits they recalled from years ago. … They stood by him as prostate cancer took him away. Sharing a lifetime of friendship is a unique and special privilege. Those relationships are the cornerstone of our lives. As things change, circumstances change, everything changes, friendships sustain us. That is the kind of friend Tammy is for me. I hope I return the favor. Be that friend, share those memories, reach out to those you knew in the past. You will likely find that they haven’t changed, and neither have you. What a blessing.
ps. If you are a guy over 50, please schedule your PSA cancer screening today.
Editor’s Note by Anne Honeywell “Are you ready to order?” My usual answer is,“No, I’m sorry. I haven’t even looked yet.” Menus. We need them. Some restaurants, we may know what we want before we get there. Others? We have no idea, and need to study the options. This issue includes our annual menu guide. Like a good cookbook (which I never use, but love to read), we hope it will serve as inspiration for you! To either go back to a once-familiar haunt or try a new place after you’ve had a chance to peruse the menu. And just like being in the restaurant, the menu is tangible here—it’s not on your phone, you don’t have to scroll and it won’t disappear if you accidently press something on the screen. Our focus on food threads throughout this issue. I enjoyed a chance to learn more about Tom Fitzmorris, the ultimate New Orleans foodie. Read our conversation on page 38. Speaking of ultimate—ultimate New Orleans restaurateur Ti Martin of Commander’s Palace invited us inside her newly renovated kitchen, saying, “All I wanted was a bar…” Learn how that turned out for Ti on page 28. Angelo Brocato’s is celebrating 100 years young, and Mimi Knight tells the story of the family and the restaurant on page 42. Leslie Cardé took on the arduous assignment of investigating Late Night Bites—along with a few craft cocktails! Her question? “Where can we go to get a good meal after the traditional dining hours are over?” She found some great options. Enjoy her story on page 32. Get out and experience some of these wonderful restaurants this month. As Tom reminds us on page 98, it’s COOLinary time, and there are lots of specials to be had! Enjoy the issue!
14
Inside New Orleans
Contributors Our contributors give Inside New Orleans its voice, its personality and its feel. Here we are proud to highlight a few of them so that you can put a face with a name and get to know them. Other Voices: Gretchen Armbruster, Leah Draffen, Lisa Fremont, Candra George, Shauna Grissett, Thomas B. Growden, Michael Harold, Anne Honeywell and Yvette Jemison.
Bill Kearney Bill Kearney believes if you like a wine, it’s a great wine— and the best wine is shared with friends. For more than 20 years, he has added wines from many regions, grapes and friends to his private collection. Recently certified as a sommelier, he serves as the wine director for Galatoire’s Restaurant and also at 33 Bar and Steak, where he is a partner. A graduate of Tulane, Bill is president of Yenraek, a governmental affairs firm. On page 31, Bill talks about Champagne in Wine Cellar.
Leslie Cardé
Tom Fitzmorris
Mimi Greenwood Knight
Veteran journalist Leslie Cardé began her career reporting for NPR in Los Angeles. From there, she landed in New Orleans as an anchor/health and science editor before moving on to anchor three hours of daily financial news and host an entertainment show for CNBC. She’s reported from the Middle East for CNN, worked as a producer and narrator for E! Entertainment and wrote, directed and produced the award-winning documentary America Betrayed. Leslie currently writes for The New Orleans Advocate and Los Angeles Magazine. She is also a producer/reporter for CBS Newspath. On page 32, she writes about late night bites and on page 82, preventing knee injuries.
Tom Fitzmorris grew up in Treme, ate red beans every Monday from his Creole-French mother until he left home. Not long after that, he began writing a weekly restaurant review column that has continued for more than 40 years. In 1975, he began a daily radio feature, which grew into his current three-hour daily talk show on 1350, 3WL. He is the author of several cookbooks, more than a dozen restaurant guidebooks, a daily online newsletter (nomenu.com) and joins us At the Table on page 98.
Mimi Greenwood Knight is a mother of four and a freelance writer with over five hundred articles and essays in print in national and regional magazines, devotionals and fifty anthologies, including two dozen Chicken Soup for the Soul books. She lives on a small hobby farm in Folsom with her husband, David, where she enjoys gardening, beekeeping, Bible study, knitting and chicken wrangling. In this issue, Mimi writes about Brocato’s on page 42. August-September 2018 15
Artistic Free Spirit NATIVE NEW ORLEANIAN and this issue’s cover artist Jax Frey is like a wildflower in a summer field, blowing in the wave of a gentle wind, seemingly free from the conformities of a defined world. Frey has lived many lives and fearlessly follows her dreams. Before becoming an artist, she lived in upstate New York, on a West Virginia farm, in El Paso and Denver and even attended medical school in the Dominican Republic. Eventually, she settled in California and went to a culinary academy, opened a catering business, studied business, marketing and life coaching and worked in sales at a software firm. But she always knew that one day she would be an artist, even though she has no >>
16
Inside New Orleans
by Shauna Grissett
photo: CANDRA GEORGE mycreativereality.com
Cover Artist Jax Frey
18
Inside New Orleans
photos: CANDRA GEORGE mycreativereality.com
artistic training. She says, “As a child, I didn’t know I could draw. But I always felt like an artist, and it was just a matter of time. I moved around a lot but my heart was always here. And that was the start of it all for me, missing New Orleans. I began to paint little things that I missed and remembered about the city, and it turned out that people really liked them, the mini paintings.” So, after living in California for many years, she moved home and has lived in Covington since 2006. Frey is perhaps most well-known for her Little Views mini paintings, which are colorful, highly textured, mixed-media paintings on four-by-four-inch paintings of mostly New Orleans and Louisiana icons, landmarks and images such as Café du Monde, Commander’s Palace, Jackson Square and French Quarter scenes. On June 26, 2017, she painted and recorded her 20,000th Little Views mini painting and received world’s record status for the Most Original Acrylic Paintings on Canvas by One Artist from the World’s Record Academy, the world’s largest organization that verifies and recognizes new records based on unlimited categories. Since setting the record in 2017, she has now painted a total of 23,000 works of art, according to Frey. In terms of her process she says, “There are a lot of steps to the mini paintings, and that’s what makes them special. I sculpt them out first and then ink, glaze and paint them. And, finally, I varnish them. They have a whimsical feel.” Frey is working on a new series, which is featured on our
cover, Jax What’s Cookin’ Kitchen Art. She says, “I have these new paintings that I’m doing, and they are more neutral, not quite such a blast of color. They look good in a more traditional home. They’re printed on fabric and then hand wrapped onto canvas. It’s a little different for me. I have to take my time rather than what I normally do with my really whimsical, loose paintings. It makes you grow as an artist, to try new things.” In addition to the Little Views mini paintings, Frey does paint larger works and has the occasional show. “Every once in a while, I’ll do a show at the Ariodante Gallery, and I’ll paint what I want. I have a tendency to paint women. I created this group of women I call, The Gumbeaux Sistahs, and they keep showing up in my work. They’re Louisiana women that are having a great time and inspiring each other, and it just feels right. In fact, I’m writing a book about them. I’m writing most of it at St. John’s Coffee House in Covington,
and I’m hoping to bring it out next year. I’m having a great time writing it; it’s hilarious!” In addition to her works on canvas, Frey offers a product line of over 25 items based on her paintings. Her products include (but are not limited to): aprons, jewelry, coasters, giclées, napkin sets, ornaments, photo frames, scarves, tote bags, and cheese plates. The artistic free spirit wraps up or rather paints the experiences that led her to this point. “I just did a painting called Authentic Song. It’s all about my artistic journey. Judgment, opportunity, learning, personal freedom and New Orleans … everything about this journey.” For more information about Frey’s product line or to special order her mini paintings, go to artbyjax.com. Her work is exhibited at Ariodante Contemporary Crafts, 535 Julia Street. August-September 2018 19
Celebrating Restaurant Week
Sept 10-16 Restaurant Week New Orleans. For the eighth year, Restaurant Week New Orleans will showcase the city’s best restaurants at a competitive price point during a special week. Pictured: BBQ Shrimp at the Bombay Club. For a full list of participating restaurants, visit coolinaryneworleans.com.
INSIDE a handy guide to events and entertainment in and around New Orleans
1-7 CIRCOVIA Summer Production Show.
Artists Exhibition Summer Show. St.
culinary tradition featuring specially priced
Beau Rivage Theatre, 875 Beach Blvd,
Tammany Art Association Art House, 320
prix-fixe lunch, dinner and brunch menus.
Biloxi, Miss. For hotel packages, (888)
Columbia St, Covington. (985) 892-8650.
coolinaryneworleans.com.
566-7469. beaurivage.com.
sttammanyartassociation.org.
1-12 Lee Friedlander in Louisiana. New
Art Gallery, 646 Tchoupitoulas St.
Crl. noma.org.
brandneworleansartgallery.com.
1-18 53rd Annual National Juried 20
1-18 River of Palms. Brand New Orleans
Orleans Museum of Art, 1 Collins Diboll
Inside New Orleans
1-31 COOLinary New Orleans. Annual
1-31 Tammany Taste of Summer. Culinary events and prix fixe meals. tammanytaste. com. 1-31 New Orleans Museum Month. A collaboration among museums of all
photo courtesy: THE BOMBAY CLUB
August
sizes across the greater New Orleans area, including The National WWII Museum, New Orleans Museum of Art, Ogden Museum of Southern Art, Contemporary Arts Center, BeauregardKeyes House, Newcomb Art Museum and New Orleans Jazz Museum. neworleans.com/museum-month. 1-Sept 16 Changing Course Exhibition. New Orleans Museum of Art, 1 Collins Diboll Crl. 648-4100. noma.org. 1-Dec 21 EMPIRE. Newcomb Art Museum of Tulane, 6823 St. Charles Ave. newcombartmuseum.tulane.edu. 2 Troy Sawyer. Ogden After Hours. Ogden Museum of Southern Art, 925 Camp St. 6-8pm. ogdenmuseum.org. 3-5 Satchmo Summerfest. Presented by Chevron. Extensive line up of music and food. Discussions by renowned Armstrong scholars on the Satchmo Legacy Stage. New Orleans Jazz Museum at the Mint, 400 Esplanade. Daily admission, $5. satchmosummerfest.org. 4 Louisiana Contemporary. Presented by The Helis Foundation. Ogden Museum of Southern Art, 925 Camp St. 5:30-9pm. ogdenmuseum.org. 4 White Linen Night. The coolest night of the year featuring the Julia Street Block Party and the official CAC White Linen Afterparty. Art openings, outdoor celebration, cuisine, dancing and more. cacno.org. 4-Sept 22 Gene Koss and Mythologies Louisianaises. Arthur Roger Gallery, 432 Julia St. Opening reception in conjunction with White Linen Night, Aug 4, 6-9pm. 5221999. arthurrogergallery.com. 4-Oct 6 Constructing the Break. Contemporary Arts Center, 900 Camp St. Opening reception, Aug 4, 5:309:30pm. cacno.org.
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August-September 2018 21
Inside Scoop 5 Imagine Dragons. Smoothie King Center, Sugar Bowl Dr. 7pm. smoothiekingcenter.com. 9-11 Travel Event. Palm Village, A Signature Lilly Pulitzer Store, 2735 US 190, Mandeville. (985) 778-2547. 11 Red Dress Run. Wear your best red dress and run for a good cause in the French Quarter. Starts at Crescent Park, 835 N Rampart St. neworleanshash.com. 15 Raising the Steaks. Music by Lyrica Baroque and a four-course dinner from Chef Nathan Winowich. Foundation Room at the House of Blues New Orleans, 225 Decatur St. 7-9:30pm. houseofblues.com/neworleans/fr. 17-20 Lafayette 148 Trunk Show. Ballin’s LTD, New Orleans. 866-4367. ballinsltd. com. 18 Polos & Pearls. Strolling, shopping, music and food. Downtown St. Francisville, La. (225) 635-3873. stfrancisvillefestivals.com. 19 John Rankin and Harry Hardin. Third Sunday Summer Concert Series. Christwood Atrium, 100 Christwood Blvd, Covington. 5-6pm. Free. christwoodrc.com. 23 The Blue Door Blues Gala. Auctions, cocktails and live music. Audubon Tea Room, 6500 Magazine St. 7-10pm. bgcsela.org/bluedoorblues. 23 The New Orleans Klezmer All Stars. Ogden After Hours. Ogden Museum of Southern Art, 925 Camp St. 6-8pm. ogdenmuseum.org. 23-26 Architecture & Design Film Festival. Presented by the Louisiana Architecture Foundation. Film topics range from preservation issues, modern architecture, landscape design, women’s roles, environmental sustainability and more. Opening reception Aug 23, 6-8:30pm, at the Contemporary Arts Center, 900 Camp St. louisianaarchitecture.org. 24 Hammers & Heels Fashion Show. Benefiting Habitat for Humanity St. 22
Inside New Orleans
Tammany West Women Build. Fashion show, lunch and open bar. Maison Lafitte, 402 Lafitte St, Mandeville. 11am-1pm. $45. habitatstw.org/womenbuild. 24 Nola Downtown Music and Arts Festival. Presented by the Music Business Institute. Musicians, popup shops, food trucks and more. Downtown, CBD and Warehouse District. cuttingedgenola.com. 25 Art Vue. Benefiting art and art education at Longue Vue House & Garden. Ace Hotel, 600 Carondelet St. longuevue.com/artvue. 27 Journey and Def Leppard. Smoothie King Center, Sugar Bowl Dr. 7pm. smoothiekingcenter.com. 30 Jon Dee Graham. Opening set by Ben De La Cour. Ogden After Hours. Ogden Museum of Southern Art, 925 Camp St. 6-8pm. ogdenmuseum.org. 30 Saints vs Los Angeles Rams Preseason. Mercedes-Benz Superdome, Sugar Bowl Dr. 7pm. neworleanssaints.com.
September 1-9 Africa Umoja: The Spirit of Unity Tour. Mahalia Jackson Theater, 3220 General DeGaulle Dr. 367-3554. africaumojausatour.com. 1-22 Gene Koss and Mythologies Louisianaises. Arthur Roger Gallery, 432 Julia St. 522-1999. arthurrogergallery.com. 5 Paul Simon. Smoothie King Center, Sugar Bowl Dr. 8pm. smoothiekingcenter.com. 6 Johnny Sketch and The Dirty Notes. Ogden After Hours. Ogden Museum of Southern Art, 925 Camp St. 6-8pm. ogdenmuseum.org. 7 Chef’s Taste Challenge: Battle of the Gulf Edition. New Orleans and the Gulf Coast’s culinary clash benefiting Edible Schoolyard New Orleans. New Orleans Ernest N. Morial Convention Center, 900 Convention Center Blvd. 6:30pm. $80. 582-3000. chefstastechallenge.com.
>>
August-September 2018 23
Inside Scoop 8 Farm and Table FAMboree. Nationally
New Orleans will showcase the city’s
recognized chefs, interactive kids zone,
best restaurants at a competitive
cooking demos and music. New Orleans
price point during a special week.
Ernest N. Morial Convention Center, 900
coolinaryneworleans.com.
Convention Center Blvd. Free admission. farmandtablenola.com. 8 Viva La Cure-A Night of Hope. Annual gala benefiting the Cancer Association of Greater New Orleans. Silent auction,
13 Food Truck and Beer Fest. Chateau Golf & Country Club, 3600 Chateau Blvd, Kenner. 6:30-9:30pm. $35. 467-1351. chateaugolf.net. 14 Celebration of Life Luncheon.
food, spirits and live music by the
The Cancer Crusaders celebrate 12
Bucktown All-Stars. WWII Museum, U.S.
honorees. New Orleans Marriott Hotel,
Freedom Pavilion. 7:30-11pm. $100. bidr.
555 Canal St. 11am. 501auctions.com/
co/events/viva. cagno.org.
cancercrusaders.
8-Nov 3 Thirty New Orleans Artists. New
15 Fifth Annual NOLA Bluedoo Run.
Orleans Healing Center, 2372 St. Claude
Benefiting the prostate cancer research
Ave. Opening, Sept 8, 6-9:30pm. Free.
fund at Tulane Cancer Center. Tulane
neworleanshealingcenter.org.
University Uptown Campus. 5-7pm.
9 Tampa Bay Buccaneers vs Saints. Mercedes-Benz Superdome, Sugar Bowl Dr. 12pm. neworleanssaints.com. 10-16 Restaurant Week New Orleans. For the eighth year, Restaurant Week
nolabluedoorun.org. 16 Cleveland Browns vs Saints. Mercedes-Benz Superdome, Sugar Bowl Dr. 12pm. neworleanssaints.com. 20-23 Burlesque Festival. Sultry
showcases of burlesque performers
Superdome, Sugar Bowl Dr. 7pm.
from around the world. 975-7425.
mbsuperdome.com/events.
neworleansburlesquefest.com. 21 Excelencia Gala. Presented by the
22-23 National Fried Chicken Fest. Fried chicken, live music and Raising
Hispanic Chamber of Commerce of
Canes. Woldenberg Park, 1 Canal St.
Louisiana. Dinner, dancing, silent auction
11am-9pm. friedchickenfestival.com.
and more. Intercontinental New Orleans,
23 2018 Sunday at Emeril’s. LSUHSC
444 St Charles Ave. 7-12:30pm. $150.
Foundation Department of Psychiatry
885-4262. business.hccl.biz.
XXII dinner honoring Dana Hansel and
21 Martini Madness. Friends of City Park
Anne Redd. Emeril’s, 800 Tchoupitoulas.
presents Martini Madness featuring 25
Cocktail attire. 5:30pm. give.
of unique martinis and cuisine from New
lsuhealthfoundation.org.
Orleans’ top restaurants. Arbor Room
26-Oct 7 Aladdin. A part of the 2018-19
and Popp Fountain, City Park. 483-9376.
Hancock Whitney Broadway in New
friendsofcitypark.com.
Orleans season. Saenger Theatre, 1111
22 NOLA on Tap. The largest beer festival in the region with live music, 400+ beers, food, contests, dog-friendly, shopping,
Canal St. broadwayinneworleans.com. 27-29 J’Envie & E.L.I. Trunk Show. Ballin’s LTD, New Orleans. 866-4367. ballinsltd.com.
non-beer drinks and games. Benefiting Louisiana SPCA. New Orleans City Park
Send your event information to scoop@
Festival Grounds. 12-7pm. nolaontap.org.
insidepub.com to have it featured in an
22 Taylor Swift. Mercedes-Benz
upcoming issue of Inside New Orleans.
INside Story
y r a d n e g s ’ e e r i o L t a Gal I GET THIS DIFFICULT QUESTION all the time: “What’s your favorite New Orleans restaurant?” With hundreds of choices, how do you name just one? I like when the question is more food specific. Favorite roasted chicken? Easy. Gautreau’s. Best sno-ball stand? Always the stand closest to one’s house. (In my case, Imperial Woodpecker.) Best dessert? I’m old school. It’s the Baked Alaska at Antoine’s with chocolate sauce, of course. But if this were a life or death question and I had to pick one single place, I know what I would choose: Galatoire’s. I don’t go to Galatoire’s for state-ofthe-art cuisine with unpronounceable ingredients or for the charming Bourbon Street location. I go for tradition and comfort food. My kind of comfort food. As in Crabmeat Maison and Trout Amandine. Think about it. Aside from Arnaud’s or Antoine’s, no other institution embraces ritual and tradition better than Galatoire’s. I like having the tables adorned with starched white linens, the glass carafes and the loaves of hot Leidenheimer’s French bread. I love that gentlemen must wear blazers in the evening, even ill-fitting loaners from the 26
Inside New Orleans
restaurant’s coat rack—and as much as I love tradition, I chuckle when customers flip out over any minuscule change, like the time they decided to use ice from an ice maker rather than chipping it off a block. And, no one will forget the year they finally began employing female servers. One socialite commented at the time, “If I wanted a uniformed waitress, I’d go to the Bon Ton or College Inn.” Times have changed. We all have our own Galatoire’s stories to tell. As children, my brother and I wore our coats and ties and didn’t dare misbehave for fear of staying home with a sitter. Before the bar upstairs was opened, we had to stand in line outside like everyone else, which meant taking turns with parents and grandparents
walking down Bourbon Street and trying to pretend that we couldn’t see into the strip bars. I don’t think any restaurant has produced more folk tales and legendary stories than Galatoire’s. I love the one where a naughty customer and his guests left a massive tip in order stay past closing time in their underwear. Once, a first timer insisted on bringing her “service pet” with her to lunch in a backpack. Needless to say, the baby kangaroo was escorted out and placed behind the desk at a neighboring sex shop. I happened to be there the day one customer broke another guy’s wrist following an arm wrestling bet; however, I’m happy to say I was not there the day one guy got so drunk that he urinated
illustration: PHILLIP SAGE
by Michael Harold
into a woman’s Gucci bag or the day one woman’s gun went off while placing her purse on the floor, sending a bullet flying into the baseboard. The dents are still there. The most poignant and haunting Galatoire’s story I know is from my old friend Johnny. His great-grandfather Henry Rightor was a playwright and a poet. In order to support his family, he was forced to accept a dull job with an insurance company. Despite its not being his lifelong passion, he excelled at the job. One Friday morning, he receives the good news that he is getting a substantial salary raise. He calls his wife, Ella, and says, “Get dressed up. We’re going to Galatoire’s to celebrate.” During their lunch, he pulls out a diamond pin and tells her that the hard times are over and instructs her to take the afternoon off and go shopping on Canal Street. Later that evening, weighed down with bags, she boards a streetcar back uptown. At one stop, a newspaper boys hops on to sell cigarettes and evening papers. She would never forget his words, “Extra, extra, Henry Rightor dies in office.” It was a massive heart attack. In the face of such adversity, Mrs. Rightor went back to Galatoire’s. In 2005, my pals Kenneth Holditch and Marda Burton wrote a wonderful book called Galatoire’s: Biography of a Bistro. It’s filled with colorful Galatoire’s stories. It’s been a while since I’ve looked at it, but now I’m wondering if it’s time for Part Two. I’d be happy to organize the perfect photo shoot, which would include a table of topless patrons wearing obligatory blazers while holding pistols in one hand and arm wrestling with the other. The main challenge would be finding a suitable Gucci bag for the baby kangaroo. August-September 2018 27
A Kitchen Fit for a Restaurateur
TI MARTIN OF COMMANDER’S Palace fame, daughter of icon Ella Brennan and most recently, the recipient of the coveted 2018 James Beard “Who’s Who” award along with her cousin Lally Brennan, wanted to enhance her beloved mid-city residence with a kitchen upgrade. More importantly, she wanted an in-home bar. Ti called upon her very talented friend architect William Sonner and expressed her desires. “Nothing elaborate; just a place to gather with friends.” William suggested they call in a designer as well, so Ti called her childhood friend Trudy Hurley.
28
Inside New Orleans
Before long, demo started and walls were coming down. What began as a simple repurpose to incorporate a bar turned into a full-blown renovation to give Ti the kitchen and bar merited by such an accomplished restaurateur. The first stop was Stafford Tile & Stone. There, Ti fell in love with a very “mod” opaque glass tile in shades of navy and teal. That tile was to become the focal point that would drive the rest of the room. John Lagarde of Classic Cupboards matched the darkest blue in the tile and produced cabinetry in the most gorgeous hue of midnight. >>
photo: CANDRA GEORGE mycreativereality.com
by Lisa Fremont
August-September 2018 29
teal backsplash from Stafford Tile & Stone adds modern interest behind the stove. Right: The sitting area in the kitchen is comprised of repurposed furniture pieces from Ti’s mother, Ella, and her aunts, Dottie and Adelaide. 30
Inside New Orleans
photos: CANDRA GEORGE mycreativereality.com
Above: The navy and
The bar side of the kitchen boasts antiqued mirrored tiles, beautiful glass-fronted cabinets and a drink blender that rises from underneath the countertop as if by magic. The sitting area in the kitchen comprises repurposed pieces from Ti’s mother Ella and her aunts Dottie and Adelaide. Hurley had Keith Guy lacquer the bamboo furniture pulled from storage. A few added pieces, like the contemporary Tulip chairs from DWR, add a touch of modern whimsey, which is Ti’s true vibe. “All I wanted was a bar....really. That first Blood and Sand cocktail I made was the world’s most expensive cocktail ever,” shares Ti. “All of Trudy’s ideas were too good to pass up. I just eventually gave her the keys and told her to go for it. I highly recommend this strategy.”
Wine Cellar
by Bill Kearney
THE WEATHER IS WARM and we are all in search of a beverage that is cool and refreshing. Something that can distract us and bring moments of fun during a time of the year when humidity and heat are omnipresent. Our minds drift to light and sparkling and an endless stream of bubbles seeming to appear out of nowhere. It is the beverage of kings and queens and endless celebrations, and it inspires us to smile and raise our glass in toast. You got it—Champagne! The truth is that Champagne can only originate from that special place known as Champagne, France. Winemakers around the world have attempted to duplicate the glass of bubbly, but their products should rightly be called “sparkling wine.” In fact, there are a few imposters from California who actually do a pretty good knock-off, but we truthfully cannot call them “Champagne,” as they do not hail from the region of Champagne, France. Shramsberg, Domaine Carneros, Mumm and Iron Horse are a few American wineries that produce very good sparkling wines in California. Some will argue that they use similar grapes as well as the traditional methods (Methode Champenoise), but they are still not from Champagne—and yes, that does matter! The primary grapes used in making Champagne are the light-skinned chardonnay and dark-skinned pinot meunier and pinot noir. These become important as we find Champagnes called “blanc de blanc” (white from white) and “blanc de noir” (white from black), which are white Champagnes made from lighter- or darkerskinned grapes. It is common to find Champagnes made with a blend of these grapes, as well as four other grapes used for blending purposes. The
Champagne variety of wonderful flavors found in stylistically differenttasting Champagnes can be attributed to the different quantities of grapes used in each blend. Then, of course, there are the extraordinary Rosé Champagnes that are salmon and coral in color and bring an elegance of softness that many Champagne drinkers find alluring. This additional color is usually attained by the addition of small amounts of still pinot noir during the blending process. Rosé Champagnes can be unique and exquisite expressions of classic Champagnes, though they are usually a bit more expensive and harder to find. There are a plethora of famous Champagne houses that have become synchronized to our American memories as symbolic of grandeur and fine celebration. Moet & Chandon’s Dom Perignon evokes such a fondness, as do others such as Louis Roderer’s Cristal. These will also create a dent in the wallet, so I recommend looking for Laurent-Perrier, Lallier, Mumm and Henriot; of course, many of you will defer to Veuve Cliquot. There has also been a strong movement by smaller producers who call themselves “Grower Champagnes.” These wines may lack the marketing budgets and name identification, but I can assure you that they are usually worthy of your purchase and offer glass-clinking enjoyment. Their bottles of bubbles are fun, as is the ever-familiar ring of the cork popping. Just remember to focus on what is in the bottle and not on the label. That alone should dictate if what you like is truly a good wine. August-September June-July 2018 2015 31
by Leslie Cardé
IF YOU’VE EVER EXITED a movie theater or jazz club at 10:30 p.m. and bemoaned the fact that there was no decent place to eat at that hour, think again. Although we’re all aware that one can get a drink at any time in New Orleans, finding food when your palate runs to something a bit loftier than dive bars and drive-thrus can be a bit elusive if you don’t know where to look. So, in that vein, we present suggestions for excellent food across a variety of communities in our exploration of late-night bites in the city.
THE FRENCH QUARTER If you stroll on N. Peters alongside the river, just a stone’s throw from Canal Place, you’ll find 32
Inside New Orleans
St. Lawrence, a gastropub known not only for its late-night hours (a full menu until 2 a.m.) but for its interesting fare and signature drinks. Since its opening six years ago, it’s been a haven for tourists and locals alike who find themselves hankering for a real meal after 11 p.m. “We are definitely a Louisiana gastropub with very elevated bar fare and simple dishes made great in a casual setting, with a real focus on our food,” says co-owner Brendan Blouin, who along with his partner, Jeff James, owns both St. Lawrence and its sister restaurant at the other end of the street, St. Cecilia. Only St. Lawrence serves late-night food, and since its namesake is the patron saint of cooks and
restaurateurs, there’s a loyalty program with great discounts for those in the service industry. But, no one’s complaining about the prices here for food that’s as good as anywhere in the city, and cocktails that draw you in again and again. “The St. Lawrence, our most popular drink is well-balanced in terms of ingredients and is particularly refreshing on a hot summer’s day,” explains St. Lawrence bartender Casha Balkan. “It’s a mix of Cathead vodka, passion fruit purée that we make here at the restaurant, freshly squeezed lemon juice, elderflower liqueur and a splash of freshly squeezed grapefruit juice, all topped off with Champagne.”
The original menu was put together by Susan Spicer protégé Caleb Cook, so excellent food choices abound. Here are some of the highlights: Soft-Shell BLT. Colosso-sized (yes, that’s a fishing term) soft-shell crabs on a bed of fresh lettuce, onion, tomato, pickles and a spicy mayonnaise to die for. Chicken Confit Wings. Slow cooked inside the oven and served with a sauce that includes Chinese chili paste, these wings have just the right pop. Crawfish Mac and Cheese. If you’re a carboholic, you can’t go wrong with this creamy rendition of a classic. St. Lawrence is located at 219 N. Peters Street. >>
The Galley Burger, from The Harbor Bar & Grill, Metairie.
August-September 2018 33
LOWER GARDEN DISTRICT
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If your tastes run toward Asian fare, here’s the place to go to get fresh fish and beyond. Located on St. Charles Avenue’s streetcar line, Hoshun serves a full menu (one of the largest in the city) until 2 a.m. in an elegant setting. “Many people don’t know we stay open late, but more than half of our business is after 10 p.m.,” says General Manager Mick Tran. “The owner, Steve Ho, came up with the late-night concept in 2005, but got waylaid by Hurricane Katrina. At the time, I was at Commander’s Palace, getting off at midnight, and there really wasn’t a variety of places to get good food late at night. After re-grouping post-Katrina, the restaurant opened in 2007.
particular mainstays. Coconut Curry Soup. Traditional dish of coconut milk and curry, surrounded by fresh veggies and an enormous amount of large fresh shrimp. Beef Teriyaki. Large pieces of ribeye steak, grilled with bell peppers and onions, served on a sizzling plate, with a teriyaki sauce that nicely dances a fine line between sweet and savory. Streetcar Roll (Sushi). A wonderful ensemble of avocado, crabsticks, minced snow crab and rice enveloped in soy paper with Champagne and eel sauce and spicy mayo and then deep-fried. Five-Pepper Calamari. A restaurant favorite, the lightly battered fried squid is tossed with jalapeños and
Folks in the service industry found us first, and they spread the word to others looking for late-night food.” Happy hour from Monday to Sunday is 3 to 6 p.m. Tuesday is for night owls, from 10 p.m. to 1 a.m. Bartender Rochelle Polkey whips up popular drinks like the Blueberry Lemon Drop and the Pineapple Kiss, both of which lend themselves to the exotic fare. The choices are wide and varied, but you can’t go wrong with a few
four other peppers. If you’re looking for anything Pan-Asian you can possibly imagine, you’ll find it here. And don’t count out dessert. Everything from Mississippi Mud Pie to 5-Layer Chocolate Cake and Cheesecake. And, of course, the well-known Asian ice creams—green tea, red bean and mango. Hoshun is located at 1601 St. Charles Avenue.
Inside New Orleans
UPTOWN In the heart of Magazine Street, nestled amongst residential architecture, you could miss Bouligny Tavern if you don’t already know it’s there. Plenty of folks have already discovered this cozy bar and restaurant, which is next door to Lilette and brought to us by the same owner, John Harris. With Christie Plaisance at the helm in the kitchen, the excellent late-night choices are served from 4 p.m. until midnight, Monday through Thursday, and from 4 p.m. until 2 a.m. on Friday and Saturday. “We’re an upscale cocktail bar with an excellent wine list and really great food,” says General
the drinks are unique in name and ingredients. While perusing the cocktail list, I found the Sol y Vida, the White Linen, La Palabra and the Bouligny Bamboo. Meanwhile, my bartender C.J. Russell was whipping me up another concoction known as the Managed Mischief, consisting of Barsol Pisco, orgeat, cold-press coffee, lime, and Angostura bitters. Quite the drink! The food runs the gamut from snacks and small plates to salads, bruschetta and crostini, and varied fried selections. I sampled a couple of popular items, which I’d definitely re-order. Tempura Green Beans. You don’t have to be a vegetarian to love these lightly battered and
Manager Craig Cooper. “I like the informal nature of this place, where you can come in for a quick beer or drink, or you can come in with a group and sit and have cocktails, a round of oysters or a good bottle of wine. We may be more of a bar, but our food and beverages are up to a level of any good restaurant in the city.” And while we’re on the subject of beverages,
tempura-fried French-cut beans, with a spicy sesame aioli on the side. Vietnamese Short Ribs. For the carnivore in you, it’s hard to beat these ribs, which are cross-cut on the bias and full of flavor. Grilled with marinated carrots, cucumber and pickled onion on top, they’re served with garlic chips. Bouligny Tavern is located at 3641 Magazine Street.
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MID-CITY For anyone who remembers the old Christian’s Restaurant nestled inside of a 1915 Lutheran church on Iberville, this location will be familiar. Since 2016, it’s been Vessel Nola, serving dinner until 11p.m. and small plates, drinks and dessert until midnight on weekends. Its motto? “Eat, Drink, Congregate,” as the entranceway signage declares. “The location is obviously unusual, and as such we’ve been in a couple of national publications, including Architectural Digest,” says General Manager Scott Brogan. “We’ve done some remodeling so that the ceiling is now modeled after the inside of a boat hull … so, that’s the vessel. And we have numerous different sorts of vessels for your drinks. There’s a theme. It’s a little kitschy, but it works.” The most impressive part of the interior is the long bar flanked with etched and stained-glass windows that rise to the cathedral ceiling above. “Believe it or not,” says Brogan, “people come here for sanctuary from the storms because it’s a church, and these gigantic windows are protected by plexiglass. We’ve had huge storms which have knocked the power out, but those windows have stayed firmly in place.” The specialty cocktails, which often come in unusual vessels, are innovative and tasty. I tasted the Carlota Fresca, made from Espolon Blanco, sloe gin, lime and coriander and Serrano Soda—great on a blisteringly hot day. And, a more traditional Tipping Point, put together with Cathead vodka, St-Germain, Cointreau, lemon, and Rosé bubbles. The ingredients blended beautifully. If your idea of a late-night bite is an appetizer, a drink and a dessert, this is the place. The small plates available until midnight include a pickle plate of five seasonal vegetables, a cheese board including four specialty cheeses, two house jams, grilled semolina bread, candied pecans and fresh berries—perfect for a late night after a flick at the Broad Theater. Or try the smoked fish dip of red snapper, catfish, cod or redfish, ground up and turned into a creamy pâté. It’s all served on semolina bread. But my sweet tooth kicked into high gear with the desserts. Recommended highly? The delightful bread pudding or the large brownie, with large 36
Inside New Orleans
dollops of vanilla and coffee ice cream, respectively. It’s all inspirational! Vessel NOLA is located at 3835 Iberville Street.
MARIGNY Where Franklin Street meets Royal Street on the slope that divides the Marigny from the Bywater sits Mimi’s In The Marigny, a two-story neighborhood bar whose slogan is “Two Blocks from the River, Three Sheets to the Wind.” Join in the fun and merriment until 4 a.m. Their mixologists at the bars do something called the “Trust Me” cocktail. You pick the spirit, and they’ll invent the rest. These drinks won’t have names because they’re all original, so if you like the blend, write it down. Behind the bar was Elise Prince, whose jubilee of ingredients perfectly hit the spot. My gin drink not only took the edge off the hot, humid day I’d walked in from, but looked like a piece of artwork—3rd Ward Gin, muddled mint and cucumber, St-Germain Elderflower Liqueur, freshly squeezed lemon juice, homemade simple syrup topped with Champagne. (Yes, I wrote this down, for the next time.) My tequila, bourbon and vodka medleys were equally audacious. “I always knew I wanted a bar, but it took many years to find the right location,” says Mimi Dykes, one of the co-owners. “I had returned from Manhattan and began the long search for the right place. We’ve been here now since 2002, and the secret to this place is the wonderful and loyal employees. Rob Hughes, the downstairs bartender has been with me since the place opened, and our wonderful Chef Heathcliffe came just after Katrina. If you don’t have collaboration and support, the restaurant business can be tough. These are pros, and they’re very aware of how much I appreciate them.” Serving top-notch food is the job of Executive Chef Heathcliffe Hailey whose existentialist manifesto on all things culinary is a bit unusual. “Cooking involves mastering the control of fire, and it dates back to Australopithecus man when he grabbed that lightning-struck tree and held the sabertoothed tiger at bay,” says Hailey. “He had taken charge of his life by controlling fire in the same way that chefs control fire to entice us with their edibles.”
Take it from me, however you spin this, Chef Heathcliffe knows what he’s doing and brings farm-to-table produce handpicked from Louisiana farms straight to your table. Here’s a small sampling: Marinated Quail. Served with morel and chanterelle mushrooms in a demi-glace. Lamb Chops. Served lollipop style, after being marinated in olive oil with Simon and Garfunkel herbs (parsley, sage, rosemary and thyme). Mimi’s in the Marigny is located at 2601 Royal Street.
METAIRIE Just a stone’s throw from the Lakeside Mall on 17th Street is one of the best finds in town. Billed as the home of the world’s greatest 12 oz. burger, it’s The Harbor Bar And Grill. Whether you want a ribeye or a tuna steak, they’re grilling until 4 a.m. It’s been a family-owned business since 1987, when patriarch Gary Saucier opened its doors. “The menu has now been expanded to include just about everything, but back then it was just burgers and steaks,” says Christy Saucier, daughter-in-law of the founder. “You know, I used to come here with my dad when I was 12 years old, and I never thought I wanted any part of the restaurant business, but I came to love it,” says Jason Saucier, the founder’s son. The restaurant never closed during Katrina, but it eventually lost both roofs and sustained rainwater damage. Two months later, it was up and running again with a packed house. “We were crazy busy, because so many places had closed,” explains Jason. “The construction workers all came here because they knew they could get good food.” Their notable 12-ounce burger is so big you can barely get your mouth around the prime beef. At $8.50, this is a steal. “And there are specials,” says Manager Theresa Thompson. “We have a steak special every Thursday. It’s a 10-ounce ribeye, with mashed potatoes and a side salad for $12.” Long-term employees are the name of the game here. Take the bartender who’s been there since the day it opened. “Vito Longo has been here 30 years,” says Jason. “I go to San Francisco and New York, and people ask me if Vito is still there. He knows everyone’s name and their drink.” Eat in at a high-top by the bar, or take your food to go. Whether it’s a seafood platter, or a BLT with fries, late-night chowhounds can have a feast and still have change in their pockets. The Harbor Bar & Grill is located at 3024 17th Street. August-September 2018 37
by Anne Honeywell OUR OWN TOM FITZMORRIS is very, very busy. So, when I had the chance to sit down with him oneon-one, I didn’t hesitate. Read on to learn more about this man of many talents. Anne: What question are you asked most often? Tom: The #1 question I am asked is, “Which is the best restaurant in town right now?” My answers: If you mean my favorite restaurant, my answer is Antoine’s. If you mean the restaurant that achieves the highest standards of taste, service and environment, that would be Commander’s Palace. 38
Inside New Orleans
Anne: How did you get started as a restaurant critic? Was that an ambition of yours, or did it happen organically? Tom: I was a writer for The Driftwood, the campus newspaper at UNO, in the late 1970s. I was inspired by a professor there, Richard Collin, who in his free time published the New Orleans Underground Gourmet. I didn’t understand the pleasures of the table until I read Collin’s book— although I loved the idea of dining in restaurants. He turned me on to the food world, and it was straight upward ever since. My strongest
& with Tom Fitzmorris ambition was to be a radio personality. It was my coverage of the food beat that led to my first job in radio, in 1974. Anne: What is your process as a critic? Tom: I go out to eat in all kinds of restaurants. When I finish the repast, I try to numerically decide how good it was relative to other comparable restaurants. I pay for the meals myself. I don’t take free meals, and I have never had any kind of expense account. So it hurts me as much as it does my readers and listeners.
Anne: Do you wear disguises? Tom: No. Anne: Do the restaurants know you’re coming? Tom: Sometimes. I am pretty easy to spot, even when I take measures to have a secret identity. A lot of people tell me that they can identify me by the sound of my voice. I sound pretty normal to me. Anne: Do chefs send you free dishes? Tom: Some try to do so, but I have ways of rebating the cost of such freebies to the restaurant. >> August-September 2018 39
Anne: Do you revisit a restaurant after a period of time? How long is a rating valid? Tom: I never give up on a restaurant. Bad ones become better; good ones get worse. Some don’t change much. It’s hard to keep up with it all. We had 809 restaurants the day before Katrina. Now we have 1,450 or so. Anne: Do you have a favorite genre? Tom: My favorite food is New Orleans food. Always has been. Anne: Savory or sweet? Tom: I like all genres of cookery, as long as they are well executed. Anne: Is there any food you won’t eat? Tom: I’ll try anything once, at least, and go back even to bad restaurants if I think there might be development. Anne: Do you like to cook? Tom: The best reason to learn cooking is that it frees you to create dishes that are exactly the way you like them to taste without concerning yourself about the tastes of others. Anne: Did you go to culinary school? Tom: No. There weren’t such organizations back in the America of the 1970s. Anne: What’s the best meal you’ve ever had? Tom: I had two lavish dinners in Alsace, northwestern France. A restaurant there called Auberge de l’Ill was being called the best restaurant in the world. I met the owner-chef’s family when they visited New Orleans. He invited me to get in touch next time I was in France. I had dinner that night and lunch the next afternoon. It lived up to its reputation. Anne: So I understand your radio show, The Food Show with Tom Fitzmorris, has been on the air 30 years this year. Talk about impressive! Tom: Yes—we are celebrating 30 years. It all began 40
Inside New Orleans
at 10 a.m. on July 18, 1988, when I signed on the air with the first edition of The Food Show with Tom Fitzmorris. I had been hired by the lady who, eight months later, would marry me—Mary Ann Connell. She was managing WSMB at the time and was looking for some new talent. She also had been hosting her own talk show for as long as I had. A few weeks later, she quit that gig, but I kept doing mine, three or four hours a day. I’m still doing my show every weekday for two to four hours. I survived all the changes in the station. After 30 years with the same station, same concept, and the same host, I am still there. The only interruption was the first week after Katrina. Most days, I broadcast from the radio station in New Orleans as normal. But on weekends and Mondays I do the show from the Cool Water Ranch—the nickname of the house in Abita Springs where my wife Mary Ann, daughter Mary Leigh and I live. I use a rig that makes me sound as though I’m in the studio. It sounds so good that I can act as an anchor in times of emergencies. For example, mine was the voice of WWL Radio from midnight until six in the morning when Katrina hit. That, combined with the HD Radio technology we use nowadays, makes it sound like I’m at the table with you. This saves me a lot of time commuting. The reason I broadcast remotely on Mondays is that it’s rehearsal night for the Northlake Performing Arts Society. I sing tenor in this organization, which has been around for 22 years now, with maestro and soprano Alissa Rowe conducting. NPAS has about 100 singers, many of whom are classically trained. I am not one of those. But being in a chorus with so many excellent singers helps me sing better than I otherwise would. I also like to sing whenever I spy a possible victim. This is often a complete stranger or someone calling me on the radio. My favorite music is from the Great American Songbook— from which Sinatra got most of his inspirations.
Anne: Wow. All goes back to your voice. Any other interests? Tom: My main interest is what I do for a living: food, cooking, wine, and travel, under the name “The New Orleans Eat Club.” We’ve had dozens of wine dinners and twentyeight cruises around the world, each with around fifty fellow cruisers. We’ve covered the Caribbean, the Panama Canal, Central America, most of Europe, Scandinavia and the eastern Mediterranean. Our most popular cruise is coming up again this October, as we go to Boston, New England and Canada, all during the foliage season. I also have written several major cookbooks, most of which are still in publication: Andrea’s Extra-Virgin Recipes. Tom Fitzmorris’s New Orleans Food, third publication, just out this spring. The New Orleans Eat Book, a restaurant guide, the biggest of a total of eight other such books. Hungry Town, hard-cover memoir of my career, with emphasis on Katrina. Lost Restaurants of New Orleans, book about well-remembered restaurants that are no longer around, written with Peggy Scott Laborde. Anne: And now, for our final question: What would you select as your “last meal”? Tom: You wouldn’t believe how many times people have asked me that, as if I am already in the electric chair. The answer: an unlimited number of icecold, very big Louisiana raw oysters. August-September 2018 41
brother in a while, Father Tony.’” he says. What drew—and continues to draw—the pastor of historic Our Lady of Guadalupe Church is the same thing that’s attracted locals and tourists to Brocato’s for 113 years, the same thing that generates long lines of customers most nights. “The gelato and pastries are absolutely authentic to Sicily,” Father Tony says. “They make everything fresh, every day. For me, it’s a connection to my childhood and to Italy.”
A Family Tradition Eighty-year-old “Miss Mickey” Brocato (named for her grandmother, Michelina, Angelo’s wife) is the third generation of the Brocato family to offer New Orleans the tempting tastes of Sicily. Her grandfather Angelo Brocato
Angelo Brocato’s
Arthur Brocato. 42
A New Orleans Institution Since 1905
WHEN FATHER TONY REGOLI hosts out-of-town guests, one of the first places he takes them is Angelo Brocato’s in Mid-City. A transplant from Buffalo, New York, Regoli first discovered the authentic Italian ice cream parlor and bakery 16 years ago when he moved to New Orleans. “My parents are both from Sicily, and I grew up in an Italian neighborhood,” he says. “When I first found Brocato’s, I went crazy. I was in there every day and sometimes more than once a day.” He visited the Carrollton Avenue business so often, in fact, that he jokingly told a young employee he was one of identical twins. “She said, ‘Weren’t you just here?’ So, I told her that was my twin brother, Anthony, but I was Tony,” he laughs. “She took me seriously and, each time I came in—which was several times a week—she’d ask me which brother I was. Today, I’d be Tony. Tomorrow, I’d be Anthony.” Of course, she eventually caught on to the ruse, and it’s become a running joke between the priest and the Brocato family. “When I visit now, they tell me, ‘We haven’t seen your
Inside New Orleans
was born in Cefalù, Sicily, and, at the age of 12, became an apprentice in one of Palermo’s most elegant ice cream parlors, learning the recipes and techniques that had been handed down for generations. When he migrated to the United States as a young man, he brought those recipes and all that knowledge with him and opened his first business, a tiny ice cream store on Decatur Street. The enterprise quickly prospered. In 1905, he was able to open a larger parlor in the 500 block of Ursulines Street in the French Quarter, and then to expand again in 1921, this time with an iconic white-tiled space modeled after fashionable parlors in Palermo, including ceiling fans, gas lamps, and sawdust on the floor. Also located on Ursulines, it was in the heart of a thriving Italian neighborhood known as Little Palermo. Brocato’s quickly became known for its rich, dense, custard-based gelatos, its cassata cake filled with ricotta cheese and iced with marzipan, lemonfilled “grandmother” cakes, candied fruits, and handchurned ice cream in authentic Italian flavors, such as
photos: CANDRA GEORGE mycreativereality.com
by Mimi Greenwood Knight
torronccino, a vanilla-based ice cream flavored with cinnamon and almonds. And, of course, Angelo made the best Cannoli Siciliana in the city. When Angelo died in 1946, his wife and kids took over the business and introduced wholesale delivery, bringing all that authentic Italian goodness to even more customers through grocery stores, restaurants and specialty stores. The store moved to its current location close to City Park in 1978 and is now run by Angelo’s grandson, Arthur; Arthur’s wife, Jolie; and his siblings, Angelo, Sal and Miss Mickey, with their kids and grandkids often making appearances. The Carrollton Avenue location maintains an OldWorld charm, with its ceiling fans, rows of goodie-filled apothecary jars, glass-fronted cases proffering a rainbow of frozen and baked indulgence and an iconic copper and brass cappuccino machine the family purchased from Tucci’s Restaurant. Through it all, they’ve stayed true to the original recipes and never wavered from Angelo Senior’s commitment to fresh ingredients, with their offerings still made onsite each day. “When I was a girl, my daddy traveled back to Sicily to order the flavors for the ice cream,” Miss Mickey says. “But now we’re able to get them locally.” And because Angelo had learned back in Palermo to make gelato in barrels, pour it into loaf-shaped molds, then slice it for serving, that’s the way the family still serves it to its customers today. In July 2005, the Brocato family and their customers celebrated the centennial of the business. Then, two months later, Hurricane Katrina hit, the levees burst and the building was slammed with five feet of water. The business was ravaged. The family was devasted. The employees and customers were scattered. And there were rumors that Angelo Brocato’s might
never reopen. But as the beloved building sat boarded up and moldering, the Brocato family received a steady stream of correspondence and encouragement to reopen. A year later, when it finally did, the always-long lines pored out of the building and down the sidewalk, with people happily waiting hours for that familiar taste of gelato and cannoli. Some displaced residents flew in for the reopening. New Orleans dignitaries and celebrities were on hand to welcome the business back. A story in the New York Times hailed the reopening of a landmark. And the grand dame of New Orleans cuisine, Leah Chase, made a personal appearance to congratulate the Brocato family.
The Tradition Continues On a recent evening, Ohio tourist John Sipley made his first visit to Brocato’s. Completely enraptured by his serving of Brocato’s stracciatella gelato (vanilla with shaved chocolate and tiramisu) alongside a steaming cup of café au lait, he said, “We asked the concierge at our hotel about the must-visit places in >> August-September 2018 43
photos: CANDRA GEORGE mycreativereality.com
New Orleans, and Angelo Brocato’s was the first place she mentioned. The line was long, but this is totally worth it. The staff was very friendly and told us all about the history of the place.” At the next table, local Lori Russo was enjoying her lemon sorbet. “I love that I can still get something amazing at an ice cream parlor, even though I’m lactose intolerant,” she says. “I’m bringing some biscotti back to my Italian in-laws and some salted caramel gelato to my husband. If they found out I was here and didn’t get their favorites, I’d be in serious trouble,” she laughs. Russo says her parents came to Brocato’s on one of their first dates and that, when she was a student at Loyola, she’d use the promise of cannoli as a carrot-on-a-stick to make herself study. “My friends and I would reward ourselves for a good night of studying with a trip to Brocato’s,” she says. Some of those friends have moved out of state now, and every Christmas they watch their mailbox for a package of Brocato’s goodies from Russo. Brocato’s is a great spot to catch a glimpse of local, and not-so-local, celebrities. Miss Mickey rattled off a list of celebs who’ve been through the doors, including Sandra Bullock, John Krasinski, Alec Baldwin and Drake Hogestyn. She says John Goodman is a regular customer, as are Charmaine Neville, and Lena Prima. Pam Darensbourg has worked at 44
Inside New Orleans
Brocato’s for 19 years. Assistant Manager Mallory Janssen has been there for seven. “I met Mr. Arthur when I worked at Gambino’s Bakery and he was our cookie vendor,” Darensbourg says. “My son was only two when I came to work here. Now he’s 21. People just love Brocato’s, and we just love them back. We enjoy seeing people come here again and again and meeting the new people who find us.” “It can get pretty crazy at night,” Mallory admits. “There’s almost always a line, and we’re open until 10:00 or 10:30, so we see a lot of drunks and a lot of crazy things. Sometimes there are fights. Other nights there are wedding proposals.” And day after day, night after night, the Brocato family continues to welcome customers of all ages, races, and walks of life with genuine New Orleans hospitality and authentic Sicilian confections that— hopefully—will be around for another 100 years. Angelo Brocato’s is located at 214 N. Carrollton Ave. Closed Mondays. If you’re a fan of the HBO series Treme, you may have noticed an homage to Angelo Brocato’s in the pilot episode. Set in New Orleans three months after Hurricane Katrina, it shows the character Creighton Bernette declining an offer of lemon ice, saying he’d feel disloyal if he ate lemon ice anywhere else while Brocato’s was still boarded up. Then later, in the first episode of the second season, set in November 2006, two months after Brocato’s had reopened, Bernette’s wife and daughter are shown at the restaurant eating lemon ice and visiting with the real-life Angelo Brocato III.
French Quarter, Metairie & Northshore / Seafood
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Inside New Orleans
August-September 2018 47
Warehouse / Seafood
Briquette Introduction SCALLOPS
Off the Grill VISITING WHOLE FISH
butter, fried goat cheese grits.
CRAB CAKE
LOCAL CATCH MEUNIERE Lump crabmeat, toasted walnut butter,
Charred poblano butter, popcorn rice
popcorn rice dressing, poached haricot
dressing, purple fennel slaw.
verts.
ALASKAN HALIBUT FILLET
Caramelized sea scallops, charred poblano
Out of the Pan
Heirloom pommes frites, glazed brussels sprouts, pistou beurre.
FLORIDA SWORD
CRISPY SKIN STEELHEAD SALMON Gulf seafood and wakame salad, sweet chili glazed butter, local jasmine rice.
SNAPPER PONTCHARTRAIN
Lump crab cake Napoleon, grilled macque
Bacon plantain mash, wilted market greens,
lump crab meat, Hollandaise, Heirloom
choux relish, wild roquette pistou.
jerked shrimp beurre noisette.
pommes frites, baby green beans.
OYSTERS
LOUISIANA REDFISH ON THE HALF SHELL
ANGUS BACKSTRAP
Chipotle broiled oysters, mushroom,
Charred lemon butter, Belle River crawfish
Pan seared foie gras, smoked bleu cheese,
spinach, smoked cheddar, crawfish pico.
relish, heirloom pommes frites.
fig demi glace, Dauphinoise potatoes.
MUSSELS
WHOLE GREEK SEA BASS
LAMB SHANK PUTTANESCA
Steamed Prince Edward mussels, white
Fennel slaw, lemon garlic aioli, olive and
Fresh tomato and olive sauce, angel hair
wine garlic butter, pommes frites, Dijon aioli.
caper misto.
pasta, market herb gremolata.
AHI TUNA
PEPPERCORN CRUSTED STRIP
Seared Ahi tuna, mozzarella fritti, yellow tomato vinaigrette, avocado, micro basil, reduced balsamic.
Charred kale salad, Bordelaise Yukon potatoes.
PORK PORTERHOUSE
SHRIMP PASTA BRIQUETTE mushrooms, tomatoes, fresh rocket, pimentos, cream sauce.
Bleu cheese crust, fig demi glace, baby green beans, bacon plantain mash.
Soup & Salads
8OZ FILET MIGNON
CRAB BISQUE Lump crab bisque, Louisiana mirliton, Sherry
Encore BREAD PUDDING BEIGNETS
Maitre D’ Butter, Demi Glace, Dauphinoise
White chocolate, Louisiana pecans, demi
potatoes, glazed brussels sprouts.
Irish café au lait.
MEYER LEMON CLOUD
finish, roe garni.
BRIQUETTE SALAD
Poached meringue, charred lemon Anglaise,
baby market greens, eggplant caviar, fresh goat cheese, petite tomatoes, choice of dressing.
BLEU CHEESE SALAD
fresh red berries, Cracked Caramel Dust.
DARK CHOCOLATE CRÈME BRULE Frangelico berries, fresh whipped cream.
Living bibb lettuce, Kurubuta pork belly, smoked bleu cheese, candied Louisiana
All entrees served with pairing option
pecans, Creole mustard vinaigrette.
Briquette is located at 701 South Peters Street in New Orleans. 504-302-7496. briquette-nola.com. 48
Inside New Orleans
French Quarter / Creole
Broussard’s JAZZ Brunch Friday-Monday 10am-2:30pm $12 Bottomless Rosé and Mimosas
appetizers CHILLED LOUISIANA SEAFOOD TRIO
NAPOLEON BENEDICT English muffins, Canadian bacon, poached eggs, asparagus, hollandaise
SHRIMP AND CRAB BENEDICT Shrimp and crab croquettes, sautéed spinach, poached eggs, béarnaise
RASPBERRY MASCARPONE STUFFED PAIN PERDU Brioche French toast, crispy bacon, fresh berries, toasted almonds
SOUTHERN FRIED CHICKEN & WAFFLES Candied pecans, Creole spiced glaze, whipped sage butter, maple syrup
STEAK AND EGGS BROUSSARD Seared petite filet, sunny-side eggs, lyonnaise potatoes, bacon marchands de vin
BBQ SHRIMP & GRITS Gulf shrimp, New Orleans style
POMPANO PONTCHARTRAIN
Truffled crab claws, shrimp
Gulf shrimp, braised chard, sauce vierge,
remoulade, blue crab ravigote
heirloom tomatoes
OYSTERS BROUSSARD
FILET MIGNON BORDELAISE
Crispy oysters, bacon, creamed
Roasted garlic mashed potatoes, grilled
spinach, crystal aioli
balsamic red onions, bordeaux veal glace
CRISPY FRIED CHICKEN LIVERS Toasted baguette, wild mushroom
desserts
butter, red onion jam
PONCHATOULA STRAWBERRY NAPOLEON
CRAWFISH GRATINEE Gruyere cheese, warm bread
SEARED CRAB CAKE Blue crab, house ravigote, marinated tomatoes
ROASTED BEETS & GOAT CHEESE
Crispy pastry, diplomat cream, strawberry coulis
PRALINE BREAD PUDDING Brandy milk anglaise, praline sauce
BANANAS FOSTER FLAMBÉE CAFÉ BRULOT DIABOLIQUE FLAMBÉE
French lentil salad, champagne
Cinnamon, cloves, orange zest, sugar,
vinaigrette
brandy, orange curacao
CREOLE TURTLE SOUP Aged sherry, chopped egg
CHICKEN AND ANDOUILLE GUMBO Louisiana popcorn rice
barbeque sauce, stone ground grits Smoked cheddar cheese, haystack
BROUSSARD’S CLASSICS
onion crisps, smashed potato salad
GULF FISH AMANDINE
BROUSSARD BURGER
GRILLED CHICKEN & STRAWBERRY SALAD Fresh chevre, toasted almonds,
Haricot vert, brown butter, toasted almonds
BRONZED REDFISH
arugula, red onions, strawberry-
Lump crab, mirliton slaw, lemon
balsamic vinaigrette
beurre blanc
Broussard’s is located at 819 Conti Street in New Orleans. 504-581-3866. broussards.com.
August-September 2018 49
Covington, Harahan, Metairie, Slidell / Mexican
Carreta’s Grill Appetizers
MESQUITE GRILL FOR 2 TO 3
NACHOS CARRETA
29.00
Carne Asada, grilled chicken breast, and our
MONTEREY MAHI MAHI MONTEREY SHRIMP
Shredded lettuce, pico de gallo, sour cream,
house chorizo, along with 4 grilled shrimp.
Select jumbo shrimp served with Carreta’s
jalapeños and beans.
Served with two plates of rice, beans, sour
cheese dip, rice and steamed vegetables.
Cheese
6.25
Ground beef or shredded chicken
7.95
Steak or grilled chicken
CHIMICHANGA DINNER
cream, pico de gallo, and guacamole.
FAJITAS
Deep-fried burrito topped with Carreta’s dip,
9.25
Served with rice, beans, and flour tortillas,
rice, beans over shredded lettuce.
10.25
plus grilled onions and bell peppers. Sour
Shredded chicken, ground beef.
Spinach and artichokes mixed with Carreta’s
cream, pico de gallo, guacamole and lettuce
Grilled chicken, steak
cheese dip and served with wheat chips.
upon request.
or Portabella mushroom
POPEYE DIP
CEVICHE
10.25
11.95 13.25
Portabella mushrooms
13.95
Chopped jumbo shrimp, cooked in lime juice
Chicken
14.25
then mixed with onions, cilantro and fresh
Steak
14.95
Order of four taqueria style tacos. Served with
tomatoes. Served with a choice of saltines
Shrimp
15.50
Chiles Toreados and beans on the side with
or tostadas.
Chicken and steak
15.25
your choice of meat: carnitas, chorizo, steak,
Shrimp, chicken and steak
15.95
grilled chicken or pastor.
14.95
Shrimp or Mahi Mahi
Salads & Wraps LA PAZ SALAD
CARNE ASADA 10.25
Chopped romaine lettuce topped with hand-battered fried shrimp corn tortilla strips and your choice of dressing.
MAYAN SALAD
10.25
sautéed onions, beans, rice, pico de gallo.
POLLO LOCO
13.25
and asadero cheese. Served with a side of steamed vegetables.
CHILE RANCHERO
mahi mahi and your choice of dressing.
EL FELIPITO
wrapped with carne asada. Served with rice.
14.95
13.75
12.95
13.95
EL POBLANO
Desserts SOPAPILLAS FLAN TRES LECHES CAKE FRIED ICE CREAM
4.25 4.95 4.95 4.95
11.95
Chile poblano stuffed with queso fresco and
ENTREES
Shrimp
TAQUERIA STYLE TACOS
Delicious seasoned grilled skirt steak with
Grilled chicken breast topped with spinach
Chopped romaine lettuce topped with grilled
13.95
Specialty Drinks Mojito, Michelada, Tequila Sunrise, Sangria.
ICE COLD MARGARITAS
Our Carne Asada served on a bed of papas
Chile relleno (cheese), enchilada (cheese),
Served on the rocks or frozen. Prepared
de casa topped with asadero cheese and
taco, rice, and beans.
with Jose Cuervo especial tequila, signature
grilled Portabella mushrooms. Served with a
Dobel tequila or tequila of your choice.
side of beans.
Flavors include: regular, strawberry, mango,
FAJITA BURRITO
13.25
peach, raspberry, Chambord, sangria.
Choice of steak or grilled chicken, rice, beans, grilled bell peppers, all wrapped in a flour
Daily lunch specials served Monday
tortilla topped with Carreta’s cheese dip.
through Friday 11 AM to 2 PM
Carretas Grill is located at 137 Taos Street in Slidell. 985-847-0020; 2320 Veterans Boulevard in Metairie. 504-837-6696; 70380 Highway 21 in Covington. 985-871-6674; 1821 Hickory Avenue in Harahan. 504-305-4833. CarettasGrill.com. . 50
14.95 14.25
Inside New Orleans
French Quarter / American Cuisine
Curio VEGETABLE CURRY
Starters ROAST DUCK & BLACK EYED PEA GUMBO Poche’s andouille, popcorn rice
SUSHI GRADE TUNA & SEA SCALLOP CARPACCIO Ginger citrus vinaigrette, fresh mint, jalapeño gremolata
BISTRO BOARD Artisanal cheese, cured meat, roasted garlic,
GRILLED VEGETABLE FOCACCIA Roasted red peppers, portobello mushroom, basil pesto, kalamato olive, fresh mozzarella
GRILLED SHRIMP HORIATIKI SALAD
Coconut ginger broth, shaved fennel salad
GRIT TOTS White cheddar stone ground grits served with roasted red pepper coulis
CHILLED BLUE CRAB CLAWS Chili-basil vinaigrette, radish escabeche
CRISPY GULF OYSTER BLT
Louisiana popcorn rice
CANE SYRUP GLAZED BEEF SHORT RIB Creamy cheddar grits, marinated tomato,
red onion, kalamata olives, lemon vinaigrette
smoked fleur de sel
SEARED SUSHI GRADE TUNA Local citrus, shaved fennel, toasted pecans,
desserts
Bernard’s honey-shallot vinaigrette
TRES LECHES BREAD PUDDING Served with strawberry and candied pecans
dinner Entrees ROAST DUCK CAVATAPPI Andouille sausage, english peas, reggiano parmigiano cheese
BRAISED SPICED LAMB SHANK Local crowder peas, chilis, spinach
S’MORES DOUBLE FUDGE BROWNIE Graham cracker ice cream, toasted marshmallow
COFFEE AND DOUGHNUTS Café au lait créme brulée with doughnut drops
CHICKEN CLEMENCEAU Sweet pea purée, sautéed mushrooms,
lunch Entrees
vegetables, garbanzo beans, and
Romaine, cucumber, feta cheese, tomato,
seasonal fruit preserve
STEAMED WHITEWATER MUSSELS
House-made Vaudouvan curry with roasted
brabant potatoes
GRILLED BAKKAFROST SALMON
Onion bun, applewood-smoked bacon,
Farro heirloom tomato salad, lemon shallot
horseradish mayo, lettuce, tomato
vinaigrette, smoked pine cone oil
Saturday & Sunday Brunch 8am – 2:30pm $12 Bottomless Rosé or Mimosas $14 Bottomless Bloody Marys Breakfast and Lunch Monday – Friday
SHRIMP REUBEN Pastrami shrimp, swiss, thousand island relish, roasted garlic mayo, shredded cabbage, toasted onion bun
ROAST TURKEY CUBAN Chicken confit, cilantro-lime mayo, pickled peppers, charred onions, gruyere cheese
Curio is located at 301 Royal Street, in New Orleans. 504-717-4198. curionola.com. 52
Inside New Orleans
French Quarter / French-Creole
Galatoires 33 Bar & Steak APPETIZERS
SOUPS
STEAKS & CHOPS
Au Gratins
LOUISIANA JUMBO LUMP CRAB CAKE
GALATOIRE’S TURTLE CLASSIC FRENCH ONION POTATO AND LEEK
16 OZ. RIBEYE VEAL CHOP FILET (7OZ. OR10OZ.) T-BONE FOR TWO (30 OZ.) NY STRIP (16 OZ.) LAMB CHOPS
CREAMED SPINACH CAULIFLOWER POTATOES PEAS & MUSHROOMS CRABMEAT LOBSTER BROCCOLI
Crystal remoulade.
GOUTÉ 33 Gulf shrimp remoulade
SALADS
with 1⁄2 dozen deviled eggs:
SALAD “33”
Two smoked trout, two crab
BIbb lettuce, pickled
Sauces:
ravigote and two traditional
vegetables, candied pecans,
Au Poivre, Hollandaise,
with ghost pepper caviar.
creole mustard cane syrup
Béarnaise, Horseradish Créme,
Vegetables
vinaigrette.
Marchand de Vin, Bordelaise
CREAMED SPINACH STEAMED BROCCOLI STEAMED ASPARAGUS BRUSSELS SPROUTS SAUTÉED SPINACH ONION RINGS COLLARD GREENS BROWN BUTTER MUSHROOMS
LOUISIANA SHRIMP BOIL White remoulade or cocktail.
ESCARGOT Herbsaint cream.
STEAK TARTARE BURRATA
CAESAR Parmigiano-Reggiano herbed
Poultry
croutons and Boquerones.
HALF ROASTED DUCK L’ORANGE BOUDIN STUFFED QUAIL
ICEBERG WEDGE Apple wood smoked bacon lardons, grape tomatoes
Basil oil, roasted garlic pine
shaved sweet onions blue
SEAFOOD
nuts and toast rounds.
cheese dressing.
TUNA
TUNA CRUDO CRAB MAISON BAKED OYSTERS Casino or Rockefeller.
BUFFALO QUAIL Pickled celery and blue cheese.
LOBSTER CHOP Maine lobster roasted beets, avocado tarragon dressing.
TOMATO AND SWEET ONION Sliced ripe tomato and sweet onion with oil and vinegar.
Grilled yellowfin tuna olive
Potatoes
tomato tapenade.
GARLIC BRABANT LYONNAISE HASH BROWN SHOESTRING STEAK HOUSE DUCHESS
2 LB. STEAMED LOBSTER GULF FISH CRABMEAT MEUNIÉRE LOBSTER THERMIDOR
Galatoire’s 33 Bar & Steak is located at 215 Bourbon Street in New Orleans. 504-335-3932. galatoires33barandsteak.com. August-September 2018 53
French Quarter / Southern
The Governor Appetizers GULF SEAFOOD & SPINACH ARTICHOKE DIP Topped with feta, pita chips
BLASTED BRUSSELS SPROUTS Mayhaw pepper jelly
ANDOUILLE & FIG CASSEROLE Blue cheese, pita chips
entrees MAYHAW GLAZED SALMON SALAD Cucumber, tomato, peanuts, cabbage spring mix, sesame ginger dressing
SHRIMP CLEMENCEAU
Sandwiches SHRIMP & CRAB CAKE SANDWICH Crispy cake, governor’s slaw, tomato, camp sauce, toasted brioche
BLACKENED SHRIMP POBOY
Sweet peas, mushroom, brabant potato,
Pork belly trinity, tomato, lettuce, camp
roasted garlic, sweet cream corn grits
sauce, french bread
PASTA NOLA
THE PEACEMAKER
GARLIC PARMESAN CHICKEN
Grilled shrimp, roasted garlic, red gravy,
Fried oysters & shrimp, lettuce, tomato,
Paneed with garlic butter
mushrooms, grape tomato, parmesan,
camp sauce, sourdough
SHRIMP BOIL CHOWDER Boil spice corn, potatoes
linguine
“LOADED WITH PORK” POTATO BOWL Pork belly trinity, sweet & russet potatoes,
seafood
fried eggs, white cheddar
BOILED GULF SHRIMP REMOULADE Creole potato salad, corn relish, deviled eggs
CHOUPIQUE CAVIAR DEVILED EGGS Ghost pepper caviar, fried oyster
BUTTERMILK CHICKEN & WAFFLE Fried chicken thigh, belgian waffle, fig &
RED STICK ANGUS BURGER Applewood bacon, cheddar, lettuce, tomato, camp sauce, toasted brioche
CRISPY CHICKEN MELT Buttermilk fried, cheddar, governor’s slaw, mayhaw pepper jelly, sourdough
cane syrup, fresh fruit
Brunch served all day, every day.
LOUISIANA BLUE CRAB CLAWS Lemon caper tapenade
SELECTION OF SPECIALTY BAKED & RAW OYSTERS
The Governor is located at 301 Chartres Street, in New Orleans. 504-291-1860. governorrestaurant.com. 54
Inside New Orleans
French Quarter / Southern
Kingfish Kitchen & Cocktails STARTERS
lunch entrees
dinner entrees
DINOSAUR KALE SALAD
OVEN FRIED CHICKEN SANDWICH
CRISPY FRIED CHICKEN
Pepitas, parmesan, sourdough croutons,
Summer squash pickles, green tomato
Half boneless chicken, bacon braised collard
radish, lemon anchovy dressing
mustardo, and banana pepper aioli on a
greens, buttery fermented hot sauce
MARINATED BLUE CRAB CLAWS Jalapeño, fennel, pineapple, ginger
KINGFISH CHARCUTERIE Assorted pickles, mustard and marmalade
ALLIGATOR “WINGS” Café au lait bbq sauce
BOUDIN BALLS
potato roll with french fries
COCHON DE LAIT POBOY Cabbage slaw and creole mustard ailoli on leidenheimer bread, with french fries
GULF FISH & SHRIMP BURGER Shaved fennel, pimenton, and lemon aioli on a potato roll, with french fries
Mustard aioli, red bell pepper jam
JAMBALAYA RISOTTO Chicken and Andouille sausage
CRAWFISH GRATIN Louisiana crawfish tails, artichoke, roasted garlic bechamel, parmesan, tortilla chips
CRAB CHOP
LOUISIANA BLACK DRUM ON THE HALF SHELL TACOS Hola Nola corn tortillas, salsa verde, chipotle aioli, cilantro and red onions
CRISPY THAI SHRIMP SALAD Curly kale, shredded cabbage, lo mein, and shitake ginger vinaigrette
Jumbo lump blue crab, avocado, sweet chili sauce
SEARED “HOOK & LINE” GULF FISH Local vegetables with daily preparation
PULLED PORK NACHOS Cracklin’, pimento cheese, tomatoes,
MOLASSES CURED DUCK BREAST Sweet potato Andouille hash and bourbon cane syrup
NEW ORLEANS BARBECUED SCALLOP FETTUCCINE Blackened Louisiana shrimp, black olives, pressed garlic, and caper-basil butter
ALLIGATOR GRILLADES Braised Louisiana alligator, traditional grillades sauce, creamy stone ground grits
ROAST SUCKLING PIG Charred mustard greens, peach tasso marmalade, cracklin’
WHOLE GULF FISH Arugula, baby heirloom tomatoes, pickled shallots, red wine vinaigrette
PEPPER CRUSTED 16OZ BONE-IN RIBEYE Bone marrow butter, street corn, cotija cheese
b&b pickles & sour cream
Saturday & Sunday Brunch *$12 Bottomless Mimosas or Rosé Lunch Daily Happy Hour Daily 2pm-7pm.
Kingfish is located at 337 Chartres Street, in New Orleans. 504-598-5005. kingfishneworleans.com. August-September 2018 55
CBD / Seafood
Legacy Kitchen SHAREABLE + SmALL pLATES HOUSE SMOKED SALMON SPREAD 12.00 WARM SPINACH + ARTICHOKE DIP 11.00 CHINATOWN SHRIMP 13.00 With creamy firecracker slaw.
LOADED DUCK NACHOS
13.00
With pepper jelly drizzle, salsa verde.
CHARBROILED OYSTERS (10)
16.00
With garlic parmesan butter.
CRISPY CHICKEN SANDWICH
Shaved vidalia onion slaw, angry pickles.
ALL-AMERICAN CLUB
Chilled salads + soups
14.00
PRIME NY STRIP
Our signature cut, broiled, butter parsley love.
This + that
House favorites 15.00
With rustic cornbread croutons.
FRIED CHICKEN + WAFFLES
18.00
With pepper jelly maple syrup.
SHRIMP LOUIE WEDGE
16.00
Tomato, avacado, creamy dressing.
CAST IRON SEARED TUNA
SIMPLE SEARED SALMON
18.00
GRILLED SHRIMP TACO PLATTER
15.00
With hot-honey glaze, blue cheese, smoky bacon ranch.
22.00
BBQ SHRIMP PASTA 8.00/13.00
Sherry + fine-chopped egg.
28.00 25.00
FLAME-GRILLED RED FISH 7.00/11.00
Burgers & sandwiches All served with chips or fries.
13.00
Freshly ground, tomato, creamy slaw,
crawfish cornbread.
LEMON ICE-BOX PIE CARAMEL CHOCOLATE BROWNIE SUNDAE MILK + HONEY CHEESECAKE WARM SKILLET APPLE PIE
SMOKED CHICKEN WINGS PLATTER 19.00
DELMONICO RIBEYE 14.00
36.00 32.00
With roasted garlic brown butter, crispy fries.
With mushrooms, caramelized onions, melted swiss.
Legacy Kitchen is located at 759 Veterans Memorial Blvd. in Metairie. 504-309-5231. legacykitchen.com Inside New Orleans
8.00 7.00
With onion, bacon.
desserts
Trimmed in-house, loaded baker.
melted cheddar.
SIMPLE SPINACH CRISPY BRUSSEL SPROUTS
With bellos and asparagus tips,
LK CENTER-CUT FILET
7.00
6.00
28.00
With white bbq, creamy slaw, crispy fries.
DRESSED-UP CHEESEBURGER
ROASTED CARROTS
SAUTEED BABY BELLO MUSHROOMS
New Orleans style, fettuccine, garlic bread.
SOUP OF THE DAY CUP/ENTRÉE
8.00 8.00 7.00
With hot honey, sea salt.
With creamy slaw, crispy fries.
CLASSIC TURTLE SHOUP CUP/ENTRÉE
9.00
farm table vegetables
With black beans, avocado.
SLOW-SMOKED BBQ BACK RIBS
CRAWFISH CORNBREAD SKILLET BLUE CHEESE + TRUFFLE HERB CHIPS IDAHO RUSSET BAKER PARMESAN FRIES
19.00
With house pico verde.
PERFECTLY ROASTED CHICKEN
dressing.
CRISPY BUFFALO CHICKEN
22.00
Wilted greens + lemon thyme jus.
Mango, avacado, macadamia nuts, tango
56
35.00
Double-stacked Legacy Kitchen classic.
KALE CAESAR + HOUSE ROASTED CHICKEN
LEGACY BURGER
14.00
8.00 8.00 8.00 9.00
French Quarter / New Orleans Cuisine
New Orleans Creole Cookery EXPERIENCE NEW ORLEANS WITH OUR TRADITIONAL CREOLE MENU, FLAVORFUL DRINKS AND COURTYARD DINING FOR YOUR NEXT DATE NIGHT, OUTING WITH FRIENDS, OR NEXT EVENT.
Starters
Cookery traditions
From the grill
CRABCAKE NAPOLEON THE COOKERY TRIO
CRAB CAKES
14 OUNCE ANGUS 1855 NEW YORK STRIP
Shrimp remoulade, crab Maison, and crab stuffed mushrooms.
GATOR BITES Alligator andouille sausage.
GUMBO cup/bowl Creole seafood.
Crab cakes served over spring mix with dill
Topped with veal demi and served with
Buerre Blanc.
asparagus and heirloom potatoes.
DUCK LAFITTE
8 OUNCE PRIME FILET MIGNON
Seared duck breast topped with raspberry
Topped with a veal demi and served with
glaze, served with creole risotto and fresh
asparagus and heirloom potatoes.
asparagus.
SNAPPER PONTCHARTRAIN Pan-seared and topped with sautéed
Oysters
jumbo lump crab meat with a delicate herb
CHARGRILLED ON THE HALF SHELL ROCKEFELLER, BIENVILLE OR TOULOUSE TRILOGY
hollandaise accompanied with Creole green beans and heirloom potatoes.
Fried seafood platter Served with heirloom potatoes and hush puppies.
SHRIMP AND CATFISH PLATE COMBEAUX PLATTER
BLACKENED REDFISH Pan-seared redfish topped with dill Buerre
Finishing touch
Two Rockefeller, two Bienville and two
Blanc sauce, served with Creole green
BANANA FOSTER BREAD PUDDING
Toulouse.
beans and heirloom potatoes. Add jumbo lump crab meat, 11.00.
Creole favorites SHRIMP AND GRITS Gulf shrimp sautéed with Andouille sausage,
MARKET PRICE
the Holy Trinity, and smothered in a magical
2 pound lobster, snow crab, shrimp, clams
Cajun sauce served with grits.
and mussels served with boiled potatoes,
SHRIMP CREOLE Thick Creole sauce of tomatoes, seasoned
Bounty of the sea
corn on the cob and Cajun sausage. No substitutions. Add one additional lobster,
with Louisiana spices and fresh peeled Gulf shrimp, served over white rice.
TASTE OF NEW ORLEANS Jambalaya, crawfish étouffée, shrimp Creole and red beans and rice.
New Orleans Creole Cookery is located at 508 Toulouse Street in New Orleans. 504-524-9632. neworleanscreolecookery.com. . August-September 2018 57
Westbank / Steakhouse
LK Prime Steak + Chop SHAREABLE + SmALL pLATES
With bellos and asparagus tips,
farm table vegetables
crawfish cornbread.
ROASTED CARROTS
FLAME-GRILLED RED FISH
HOUSE SMOKED SALMON SPREAD 12.00 WARM SPINACH + ARTICHOKE DIP 11.00 CAJUN QUESO 9.00 With tortilla chips.
27.00
SMOKED CHICKEN WINGS PLATTER 18.00 With white bbq, creamy slaw, crispy fries.
CHINATOWN SHRIMP
13.00
With creamy firecracker slaw.
LOADED DUCK NACHOS
With crispy fries.
16.00
House favorites FRIED CHICKEN + WAFFLES
16.00
With pepper jelly maple syrup.
SIMPLE SEARED SALMON
22.00
With house pico verde.
19.00 25.00
This + that
with butter + green onion-parsley love.
CRAWFISH CORNBREAD SKILLET POTATOES AU GRATIN IDAHO RUSSET BAKER SIMPLE MASHED POTATOES CREAMED SPINACH
NY STRIP LADIES CUT FILET BONE-IN COWBOY
18.00 39.00
25.00
29.00 42.00
With brown butter.
29.00
Roasted + sliced, chimichurri.
DELMONICO RIBEYE
With creamy slaw, crispy fries.
BBQ SHRIMP PASTA
All steaks seasoned to perfection and brushed
TOP SIRLOIN
With black beans, avacado.
SLOW-SMOKED BBQ BACK RIBS
House-cuts premium steaks LK CENTER-CUT
40.00
LEMON ICE-BOX PIE CARAMEL CHOCOLATE BROWNIE SUNDAE MILK + HONEY CHEESECAKE WARM SKILLET APPLE PIE
garlic bread.
LK Prime Steak + Chop is located at 91 Westbank Expy Ste. 150 in Gretna. 504-513-2606. legacykitchen.com Inside New Orleans
6.00
8.00 8.00 7.00 7.00 7.00
desserts
New Orleans style, fettuccine,
58
8.00 7.00
With onion, bacon.
Broiled, butter parsley love.
GRILLED SHRIMP TACO PLATTER 19.00
SIMPLE SPINACH CRISPY BRUSSEL SPROUTS SAUTEED BABY BELLO MUSHROOMS
With loaded baker.
Wilted greens + lemon thyme jus.
PERFECTLY ROASTED CHICKEN
27.00
13.00
With pepper jelly drizzile, salsa verde.
JUMBO LUMP CRABCHOP
13 CLUB RIBEYE
7.00
With hot honey, sea salt.
8.00 8.00 8.00 9.00
CBD / Seafood
Tackle Box SOCIALS “OH SO” SOUTHERN FRIES
8.00
Bacon, cheddar, white sawmill gravy.
LOADED PIMENTO CHEESE
9.00
Bacon & onion jam.
SMOKED SALMON DIP ALLIGATOR POPPERS
11.00 11.00
With pepperjelly glaze.
JUMBO SHRIMP COCKTAIL CRAWFISH BEIGNET BITES THE GRAND TOWER (serves 4)
14.00 9.00 48.00
12 raw oysters, 6 charbroiled oysters, 6 shrimp cocktail, smoked salmon dip, crawfish remoulade.
16.00 15.00
TACKLEBOX CHILLED SAMPLERS 17.00 Crawfish remoulade, smoked salmon dip, shrimp muffaletta salad.
14.00
Garlic herb aioli.
CRAFTED OYSTERS
18.00
Freshly shucked + flash fried generously topped (8)
GRIS GRIS Creamed spinach, tabasco hollandaise.
WHO DAT Smoked white beans, creole mustard.
SEARED TUNA SALAD
18.00
Mango, avocado, macadamia nuts, tango
bacon ranch.
10.00 10.00
26.00
Cajun crawfish cream and featured veg.
20.00
Brown butter & louisiana popcorn rice.
FRIED CHICKEN + WAFFLES
17.00
LOWER-THAN-LOW COUNTRY SHRIMP + GRITS 23.00 New Orleans version of a coastal classic.
SOUTHERN COMFORT PLATES
LEGACY KITCHEN CLASSICS THE FRIED TACKLEBOX PLATTER 32.00
FRIED SHRIMP OR OYSTER POBOY 15.00 New Orleans “dressed”, house chips.
Thin catfish, oysters, shrimp, alligator poppers, crawfish hushpuppies, fries.
PECAN SMOKED CHICKEN WINGS PLATTER 16.00 Fries & slaw.
REDFISH ST. CHARLES
29.00
Garlic herb butter asparagus, mushrooms & crawfish cornbread.
14.00
SOUTHERN FRIED CHICKEN
15.00
Applewood smoked bacon, peanut butter,
22.00
Braised cabbage, crawfish spoonbread.
CENTER CUT FILET
jam, fries.
ELVIS-THE KING BURGER
Kentucky bourbon peppercorn sauce.
Bacon studded, pepperjelly maple syrup.
Hot-honey glaze, blue cheese, smoky
OLD SOUTH CHEESEBURGER
27.00
THIN FRIED CATFISH PECAN
Tomato, avocado, creamy dressing.
36.00
Creamy smoked greens, fried oysters and tabasco hollandaise.
cheddar cheese & brûlée bananas, fries.
SOUTH GEORGIA CHICKEN SANDWICH
SIDES 15.00
Vidalia onion slaw, fries.
SOUP & SALADS CRAB + CORN BISQUE CRAWFISH BOIL SOUP
15.00
Pimento cheese, vidalia onions and bacon
VOO DOO Cajun mayo, blue cheese, crumbled bacon.
THE SHRIMP WEDGE SALAD
RIBEYE STEAK PERFECTLY GRILLED FISH
Cornbread croutons.
SOUTHERN-FRIED CHICKEN SALAD 16.00
Garlic parmesan herb butter.
SIMPLE FRIED OYSTERS
12.00 12.00
dressing.
OYSTER BAR ICE COLD RAW OYSTERS (12) CHARBROILED OYSTERS (8)
LOADED SEAFOOD GUMBO POT KALE CAESAR
PAN ROASTED SALMON
22.00
SOUTHERN BRAISED CABBAGE TODAY’S FEATURED VEG CRAWFISH SPOONBREAD
6.00 6.00 9.00
Chef tartar, brussel sprouts.
Tackle Box is located at 817 Common Street in New Orleans. Legacykitchen.com. August-September 2018 59
Warehouse District / Creole Italian
Tommy’s Cuisine APPETIZERS
TOMMY’S CLASSICS
ENTREES
SHRIMP REMOULADE
GULF FISH CAPRI
MEATBALLS & SPAGHETTI
Spicy boiled Louisiana Gulf shrimp, served
Local blue crabmeat, crawfish tails,
Beef & pork blend, angel hair pasta,
with traditional New Orleans remoulade
artichokes, lemon-caper beurre blanc
marinara, shaved parmesan
and a deviled egg
CRISPY CALAMARI Fresh lemon, marinara, shaved parmesan
FRIED OYSTER BLT Gulf oysters, bacon, tomato jam, micro arugula
CRAB & AVOCADO RAVIGOTE Local blue crab, heirloom cherry tomatoes, Romaine hearts, sauce ravigote
STEAMED PEI MUSSELS Pancetta, garlic, fennel, chilies, white wine,
SEAFOOD STUFFED EGGPLANT
Gulf shrimp, calabrian chilies, garlic,
lemon butter
tomatoes, linguine
CHICKEN ROSEMARINO
BAKED OYSTERS “TOMMY” Roasted red peppers, parmesan cheese, crispy
Crispy gulf oysters, angel hair pasta, extra
oil and rosemary garlic jus, served with a
virgin olive oil, garlic, herbs
side of pasta marinara
DUCK TCHOUPITOULAS Wild rice, wilted spinach, pecans, bacon & raspberry glaze Panéed veal, lump blue crabmeat, linguine, haricot vert, lemon-caper beurre blanc
VEAL MARSALA
pancetta
FRIED OYSTERS BORDELAISE
Roasted with white wine, extra virgin olive
VEAL PICCATA
butter
SHRIMP FRA DIAVLO
Gulf shrimp & crab dressing, crisp eggplant,
TURTLE SOUP AU SHERRY
Panéed veal, sautéed mushrooms, linguine,
A New Orleans classic
haricot vert, mushroom-marsala reduction
VEAL OSSO BUCCO Creamy polenta, veal jus reduction, parsley gremolata
GULF SEAFOOD CIOPPINO Shrimp, mussels, fish, garlic, fennel, tomato broth, grilled bread
GRILLED FILET MIGNON Whipped potatoes, caramelized cippolini onions, red wine demi-glace
TOMATO & BURRATA SALAD Marinated tomatoes, fresh arugula, burrata cheese, pressed basil, wild berry vinaigrette
ROASTED BEET SALAD Mixed greens, Ricotta salata, citrus-honey vinaigrette
Tommy’s Cuisine is located at 746 Tchoupitoulas Street in New Orleans. 504-581-1103. tommyscuisine.com. 60
Inside New Orleans
French Quarter / International Fusion
French Quarter / Café
Café Beignet BEVERAGES
bäcobar
Coffees (hot, Iced and frozen),
New Orleans style soup with
tea, soft beverages, and juices.
chicken & andouille sausage.
BREAKFAST
starters KIMCHI DEBRIS FRIES Pork debris, kimchi, jack cheese, seoul sauce
CRISPY BRUSSELS SPROUTS Pork belly, apples, chili’s, greens, sweet chilies, peanuts.
CRAB RANGOON GRATIN Creole curried wonton chips.
bäcos & Lettuce wraps bäcos, signature steamed bun tacos, or get “naked” lettuce wraps
bäc-bäc SHRIMP
SOUTHERN BREAKFAST Scrambled eggs, bacon, & grits.
CAJUN HASH BROWNS Home-style potatoes, Andouille
YELLOWFIN TUNA POKE Ponzu, pineapple, sesame seeds, guacamole.
Entrees SHRIMP AND BACON PAD THAI Rice noodles, sprouts, peanuts, herbs, sweet – spicy sauce, soft egg.
SEOUL BOWL Braised chicken, pork belly, LA rice, mexican street corn, crispy brussels, cebollitas tomato salad, sunny egg.
BÄCOBAR LA rice, corn, black beans, cabbage, smoked jalapeño queso, kimchi salsa. Add shrimp, steak, or chicken.
WAGYU BEEF BURGER Bibb, BB pickles, American cheese, caramelized onions, tomato, creolaise, leidenheimer bun, bacobar fries. Add pork belly and/or egg.
Served with rice & French bread.
ROAST BEEF PO-BOY Hot roast beef in gravy. Served on French bread with lettuce, tomatoes & pickles.
MUFFALETTA
sausage, bell pepper & red
New Orleans sandwich with
onion.
Genoa salami, ham, swiss,
BREAKFAST SANDWICH Scrambled egg, bacon & white cheddar on croissant or bagel.
FRENCH STYLE OMELETTES Served with French Bread &
Crispy Gulf shrimp, cucumber, pickled veggies, seoul sauce, sesame seeds.
GUMBO
Grits. Crawfish, Ham & Cheese, Veggie, Western, Mushroom, or Veggie.
BELGIAN WAFFLE OR PECAN WAFFLE Served with fruit & maple syrup.
FRENCH TOAST
provolone & olive salad.
SHRIMP OR FISH PO-BOY Battered and fried on French bread with lettuce, tomatoes & pickles.
FRIED SHRIMP, FISH OR CRAWFISH CAKE OR COMBO PLATTER Served with fries, fried okra & tartar sauce.
SPECIALTY SANDWICHES Louisiana Ham, Oven Roasted
Made with French bread, dusted
Turkey Breast, Tuna Salad,
with cinnamon sugar & served
Royal Croissant, Decatur Club,
with fruit & maple syrup.
Bourbon Croissant, Veggie.
FRESH MADE-TO-ORDER BEIGNETS 3 per order
Menu subject to change by season or location.
New Orleans Specialties RED BEANS
Slow cooked creamy beans with andouille sausage. Served with rice & French bread.
JAMBALAYA Lunch specials Monday through Friday, weekend Brunch and
Cajun style rice dish with
catering. bäcobar is located at 70437 Hwy. 21, Ste. 100 in Covington.
chicken & andouille sausage.
985-893-2450. bacobarnola.com.
Served with French bread.
Café Beignet is located at 334 Royal Street, 311 Bourbon Street and 600 Decatur St., in New Orleans. cafebeignet.com. August-September 2018 61
Metairie / Café
French Quarter / Creole
Caffe! Caffe!
Gumbo Shop
AVOCADO
APPETIZERS
Salads
Romaine lettuce topped with sliced avocado, gorgonzola cheese & walnuts, garnished with orange slices & red onions, finished with our signature Mango Vinaigrette on the side.
GREEK Mixed Greens topped with feta cheese, red onions, green peppers, cherry tomatoes & Kalamata olives, finished with our Greek dressing and served with pita wedges.
TOMATO, ONION, AVOCADO Fresh sliced tomatoes, red onion, feta cheese, Kalamata olives and sliced avocado atop Greenleaf lettuce, served with pita wedges and olive oil and balsamic vinegar.
Add grilled chicken, chicken salad or tuna salad or shrimp salad.
Sandwiches CAFFE CLUB- HAM OR TURKEY Your choice of ham or turkey with Swiss cheese, bacon, lettuce, tomato, mayonnaise and a honey mustard spread on toasted sourdough bread.
GRILLED CAESAR PITA Romaine lettuce tossed with seasoned croutons and our signature Caesar dressing, topped with grilled chicken in a fold-over pita bread.
CHIPOTLE CHICKEN WRAP Grilled chicken, Swiss cheese, mixed greens and our homemade chipotle sauce in a whole wheat wrap.
One-of-a kind desserts made fresh daily.
Caffe! Caffe! is located at 4301 Clearview Parkway in Metairie and 3547 North Hullen. 504-885-4845 and 504-267-9190 62
Inside New Orleans
SEAFOOD OKRA GUMBO (CUP) CHICKEN ANDOUILLE GUMBO (CUP)
4.99 4.99
SALADS SEASONAL GREEN SALAD SHRIMP REMOULADE CRAWFISH REMOULADE BLACKENED CHICKEN SALAD
4.99 Small 7.99/Large 12.99 Small 7.99/Large 12.99 10.99
ENTREES SEAFOOD OKRA GUMBO CHICKEN ANDOUILLE GUMBO JAMBALAYA SHRIMP CREOLE RED BEANS AND RICE WITH SMOKED SAUSAGE CREOLE COMBINATION PLATTER
9.50 9.50 12.50 15.50 10.99 14.99
a large platter of Shrimp Creole, jambalaya and red beans & Rice
(to substitute crawfish etoufee for red beans, add 2.00)
VEGETARIAN DISH OF THE DAY, CREOLE STYLE
9.99
meatless beans and rice with plenty of seasoning and lots of local flavor, ask your server for today’s selection
CRAWFISH ETOUFFEE CRAWFISH AND PASTA IN TASSO CREAM FRESH FISH FLORENTINE BLACKENED FISH FRESH FISH CREOLE CHICKEN ESPAGNOLE GRILLED OR BLACKENED CHICKEN
18.99 16.99 17.50 17.50 17.50 14.99 13.99
Gumbo Shop is located at 630 St Peter Street in New Orleans. 504-525-1486.
French Quarter / New Orleans Buffet
Steamboat Natchez Dinner Jazz Cruise
New Orleans Buffet Cruise Time 7:00-9:00pm Dining Salon Seating 6:00-7:15 p.m or 7:45 p.m. Reservations Required
NATCHEZ TOSSED SALAD Mixed greens, tomato, praline bacon, croutons, tossed in our Steen’s cane syrup vinaigrette and served family style.
CHICKEN AND SAUSAGE GUMBO PORK LOIN Served with a Creole mustard sauce STEAMBOAT ROUND Certified Angus Beef, carved to
with fresh rosemary, thyme, garlic, and ground pepper.
CREOLE CREAMED SPINACH Spinach with mozzarella, parmesan and cream cheese.
GREEN BEANS ALMONDINE Southern style green beans topped with almond slivers.
WHITE CHOCOLATE BREAD PUDDING
order w/ natural au jus and a
A soufflé of local Leidenheimer
horseradish cream sauce.
French bread in a rich custard
BAYOU SEAFOOD PASTA Crawfish tails and Shrimp tossed in a white wine and garlic parmesan cream sauce with penne.
PADDLEWHEEL PRIMAVERA
with a decadent white chocolate sauce. BANANAS FOSTER
A New Orleans original! Fresh sliced bananas sauteed in
Fusilli pasta, zucchini, squash,
butter, brown sugar, vanilla,
mushrooms and cherry tomatoes
cinnamon and rum. Served
tossed in a zesty basil pesto.
warm atop vanilla ice cream.
HERB-GARLIC FINGERLING POTATOES Fingerling potatoes roasted
La Louisiane Sliced French Bread Community Coffee and Iced Tea included.
Steamboat Natchez is located at Toulouse Street & the Mississippi River in New Orleans. 504-569-1401. steamboatnatchez.com. August-September 2018 63
CBD / Seafood
photo: RUSH JAGOE
CBD / Italian Cuisine
Josephine Estelle SHRIMP Peel and eat, brown butter, green garlic, piment d’espelette, lemon.
FRIED CHICKEN BISCUIT
Seaworthy OYSTERS
Jefferson / American Cuisine
Rivershack Tavern LEAF ME ALONE (CHEF SALAD)
Wild-caught and sustainably harvested
Lettuce, tomatoes, mozzarella and
oysters from American Waters- Gulf Coast,
cheddar cheeses, ham and turkey breast.
East Coast and West Coast.
CRAWFISH OMELET
STICKY CHICKY Grilled chicken breast on top of a combo
Louisiana crawfish, shitake mushrooms,
of greens with tomatoes, ‘shrooms, green
tomatoes, shallot, fontal cheese.
peppers and onions, topped with swiss
SEAWORTHY BENEDICT Fried Louisiana oysters, poached farm eggs,
cheese with honey mustard dressing.
SHANK YOU
Calabrian honey, double deuce,
caviar-chive hollandaise, served with tuscan
Juicy combo of fresh beef and Louisiana
farm greens.
lettuces and sofrito potatoes.
hot sausage.
AGNOLOTTI Green garlic, ricotta, black truffle.
BBQ SHRIMP AND GRITS
BBQ SHRIMP Cauliflower “grits,” cajun herbs.
SMOKED COBIA
Cheddar grits, gulf white shrimp,
thinly sliced smoked lemonfish
tasso ham, green onions.
ceringnola olive vinaigrette, sesame
SWORDFISH Chicories, croutons, spring vegetables, pistachio, calabrian chile.
PORK OSSO BUCO
bread crumbs, shaved fennel, prosciutto.
BURGER 50/50 brisket and chuck, fontal cheese, garlic aioli, roasted country ham, carmelized
Polenta, cardamom, orange,
onions, Hijiki seasoned fries, spicy bread and
pancetta, peas.
butter pickles.
COCONUT SEMIFREDDO
HANGER STEAK
SEE-FOOD PLATTER Massive combo of daily snatched seafood delights of oysters, catfish and shrimps paired with alligator sausage and fries.
CAESAR PO’BOY Grilled chicken topped with romaine, mozzarella and homemade caesar dressing.
RIVER ROAD ROAST BEEF Slow roasted debris style au jus.
SHRIMP OR OYSTER PO’BOY Can’t dee-cide? Try our ½ and ½.
BEN D. RULES
Pineapple, passionfruit, black
Smashed yukon gold potatoes, mizuna,
Pastrami, pepper jack, sauerkraut, and
sesame-tahini crunch.
chimmichurri.
creole mustard on toasted rye.
REDFISH
Josephine Estelle is located at 600 Carondelet Street in New Orleans. 504-930-3070. josephineestelle.com. 64
Inside New Orleans
CLUB SAMICH
On the half shell, chili butter, roasted new
Ham, turkey breast, bacon, lettuce,
potatoes, mustard frill, satsuma vinaigrette.
tomato, mayo and topped off with cheese.
Seaworthy is located at 630 Carondelet Street in New Orleans. 504-930-3071. seaworthynola.com.
Rivershack Tavern is located at 3449 River Road in Jefferson. 504-834-4938. rivershacktavern.com.
August-September 2018 65
Bienville: Planting the Seeds
by Joey Kent
Above: Jean Baptiste LeMoyne, Sieur de Bienville. Opposite: A map of New Orleans circa 1722. 66
IN THE MOST RECENT INSTALLMENT of this tricentennial series, credit was given to the frail and mysterious Sieur de Sauvole for originally selecting the location of what is now the city of New Orleans in 1699. This was by no means meant as a slight against the man history credits with the founding of the settlement in 1718—Jean Baptiste LeMoyne, Sieur de Bienville, who was undeniably the glue that held the company together long enough for the roots to take hold. Most of the historic images we have of this rugged Canadian adventurer are sketches and paintings of him in later years, clad in the ridiculously over-the-top attire of the French noblemen of that
Inside New Orleans
era and making it almost impossible to picture the aged statesman in powdered wig and frilly cuffs staring back at us as ever having been the Jeremiah Johnson of his generation. Let’s take a closer look at “the brother that stayed behind” as the settlement he named Orleans began to take shape. Now, keep in mind our fair city didn’t spring from the earth fully formed with jazz on every corner and food to die for—well, you could certainly die from a lot of food prepared and served here back in the early 1700s, but there was no bliss associated with its consumption. What few roads there were through the city in those early days were just as
photo courtesy: The Historic New Orleans Collection, acquisition made possible by the Clarisse Claiborne Grima Fund, 1990.49
“Good City”
potholed as they are today, and, with no levee system in place, the town routinely flooded during hurricane season. Now called “New” Orleans because somebody pointed out there was already an Orleans in the French empire, our township was hardly an improvement upon the original. Charles Gayarre, in his 1854 tome History of Louisiana, offered this portrait of New Orleans, age 9, in 1727: “Mosquitos buzzed, and enormous frogs croaked incessantly in concert with other indescribable sounds; tall reeds, and grass of every variety grew in the street, and in the yards, so as to interrupt communication, and offered a safe retreat, and places of concealment to venomous reptiles, wild beasts, and malefactors, who, protected by these impenetrable jungles, committed with impunity all sorts of evil deeds.” Safe to say, the Trip Advisor five-star ratings would be a long time coming. With the passing of the territory’s first governor, Sauvole, in 1701, Bienville was immediately installed as his replacement and remained the governor, off and on, for much of the following 42 years and the territory’s chief advocate for the rest of his life. The founding of the great expanse known as “New France,” or “Louisiana,” had been done in large part by French and Canadian explorers at the behest of King Louis XIV of France and his great-grandson, Louis XV, and had always been about the enrichment of the homeland. While the monarchy promised to provide manpower, salaries and provisions for the expeditions and the resulting colonies—at least on paper—one or more of these obligations were often years late in coming, if at all. If an expedition didn’t immediately begin harvesting the riches of the New World, the King would lure outside investment by selling interests in the colony in question or granting a trade monopoly for a period of years. Such was the state of affairs Bienville found himself embroiled in when Louisiana failed to be an overnight success. In her 1892 biography, Jean
Baptiste LeMoyne, Sieur de Bienville, Grace King painted quite the portrait of his early governorship: “Satan himself could not have worsened the moral atmosphere of the struggling community. [Bienville], the young, rude, unlettered Canadian, who from midshipman and lieutenant of marines, had been pushed to the first place of a command, whose entire character and administration constituted one obstinate determination to maintain and increase the grasp of country left him by [his brother] Iberville…bulwarked himself against the Spaniards in the east, spying out their land in the west, fending off the English at the north, keeping his channel of the Mississippi well open, scouring the Gulf with his little vessels, arming the Indians against one another and against everybody but himself, buying, borrowing food, quartering his men in times of dearth upon the Indians, recalling them at every new invoice from France, Havana or Vera Cruz, marrying the girls, breaking the Canadians into farmers, punishing savages, repressing his own bandits, building, sowing, carrying out with a handful of soldiers and a pittance of money the great Mississippi and Gulf policy of Iberville—his activity and dexterity, it would seem must have compelled acknowledgment from even his detractors.” All this duly noted, Bienville’s detractors would ultimately prevail, at least in the short run. In 1710, Louis XIV appointed Antoine Laumet the governor of the colony, in part to try a different leadership and in part to deal with a growing problem as equitably as possible. Laumet had been enjoying a fur trading monopoly in another part of New France he founded along the Straits between Lake Huron and Lake Erie (“le Detroit” as it was known in French) but was charged with abuse of authority and ordered south as a punishment or reward, depending on one’s point of view. He refused the order and returned to France instead, where he convinced one of the King’s financiers, Antoine Crozat, to invest in the colony. Crozat willingly agreed and was granted a fifteen-year trade monopoly
>>
August-September 2018 67
for his troubles. With that little bit of business out of the way, Laumet and Crozat and their families established themselves in what was then the capital city of the colony, Mobile. By virtue of his royal appointment, Crozat was now the first proprietary owner, or effective ruler of the colony, second only to the King. Then came the appointed governor, Laumet, yet another titled “Lord� destined to be known to history by the territory he lorded over back in France—Antoine Laumet de la Mothe, Sieur de Cadillac. Yes, that Cadillac. Lastly, Bienville was unceremoniously reduced to what amounted to head of the Bureau of Indian Affairs. Crozat immediately set his designs on establishing a vast trading network, not with Louisiana but with the Spanish possessions in the area. He was a monopolist focused solely on his own financial gain. A series of peace agreements emerging in Europe between many of the countries, including Spain, Great Britain and France, collectively known as the Treaty of Utrecht, gave him confidence in his plan, but as it turned out, the Spanish ports he depended on for success ended up being closed to French vessels as part of the equitable sharing of trade among the member nations. Finding his charter not worth the paper it was printed on, Crozat grew indifferent to the people of the colony and they, in turn, fought and stalled his efforts to exploit them at every turn. As for Cadillac, he found the colony contemptable from the onset and trash talked it to the folks back home in France every chance he got. He conceded Bienville was indeed gifted in Indian relations, but only to underscore his recommendation that the man be relegated to Fort Rosalie, a new French 68
Inside New Orleans
outpost on the fringe of Indian Territory at Natchez. In a letter to his brother, Charles, dated October 3 of 1713, Bienville noted that Cadillac “has put such consternation in this country that, from the highest to the lowest, all are asking with insistence to go out of it.” He goes on to lament the state of the union: that his men have not been paid their salaries in seven years; that promised provisions show up months or years late and are a fraction of what is needed; that their promissory notes for payment are no longer good at the company store and they must pay cash for the few supplies available, which are charged to them at exorbitant rates—today’s equivalent of $75 for a five-pound bag of flour, $50 a yard for linen, and more than $300 for a hat, the cost equivalent back then of a good cow or a low-end horse. “I will tell you nothing of Monsieur de la Mothe,” Bienville wrote, “except that we all find it disagreeable to serve under him.” By 1716, after many arguments over the direction of the colony, Crozat removed Cadillac from office, and the following year, both made their separate return to France in defeat. Jean Baptiste LeMoyne, Sieur de Bienville, was again made interim governor of the colony. In 1718, he was reappointed governor and renewed his fight in earnest for the capital city of the colony to be established along the Mississippi at the point Sauvole had so wisely noted as “ideal,” a settlement he had begun to seed with inhabitants that would grow into the vibrant multi-cultural port city of New Orleans. The Lord of Bienville, whose very name in French means “good city,” still had a ways to go before his dream would become a reality. We’ll get there in the next installment, I promise. August-September 2018 69
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Inside New Orleans
Flourishes 3
2
1
4
5
1. Chair with curvy, exposed, solid mahogany hardwood frame in aged, bone-white finish, dark-chocolate and milky-white velvet outer surround; neutral linen box cushion; tufted inside back. Seat height is 19”. American Factory Direct, Covington, 985-871-0312. 2. Handmade, warm-white goose feather headdress transforms into wall hanging 18”-30”
6
in diameter, starting at $225. French Mix by Jennifer DiCerbo Interiors, Covington, 985-809-3152. 3. Unusual glass with round glass top and pewter base; handmade in Italy. Ice tong, $130; double old-fashion, $70; ice bucket, $400. Hilltop Shoppe, 533-9670. 4. Alabaster table lamp with white linen shade, $335. Niche Modern Home, Mandeville, 985-624-4045. 5. Wooden wastebasket and boutique tissue box with scalloped accents and archival map of Paris, with silver leaf detail. The Linen Registry, Metairie, 831-8228. 6. Elke table with white marble top and warm brass base, $1099. Susan Currie Design, 862-5800. August-September 2018 71
Flourishes
1
2
5
3
4
1. Luna umbrella light with Bluetooth speaker, $119. Outdoor Living Center, Covington, 985-893-8008. 2. Speedy, 48� x 48�; $7,900. 6
Gallery B. Fos, 444-2967. 3. Personalized drinkware; printed in store, $12.95 to $29.95. Auraluz, Metairie, 888-3313 or shopauraluz.com. 4. Pontchartrain Beach Token Keychain, sterling silver, $125. Also available as a pendant or charm. Symmetry Jewelers & Designers, 861-9925. 5. AKDO Essence Collection exclusively at Stafford
7
Tile & Stone, 895-5000. 6. Big Green Egg. Outdoor ceramic kamado-style charcoal grill and smoker. Prices vary based on size and EGGcessories selected. Southland Plumbing Supply; Mandeville, 985-893-8883; and Metairie, 835-8411. 7. Jan Barboglio angel sculpture, plated in German nickel, on wooden stand. Greige Home Interiors, Covington, 985-875-7576.
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August-September 2018 73
INside Look
2
1. Silky Georgette gown with high halter neck, contrast cream binding, open back and ruched detail at bodice, $430. Ballin’s Ltd, 866-4367. 2. Jack Kelege
1
platinum and diamond band, $30,900. Lee Michaels, Metairie, 832-0000. 3. Platinum, black onyx and diamond art deco earrings, $5,500. Lee Michaels, Metairie, 832-0000. 3
4. Signature Imperial Blend Collection Tailored Fit Plaid Sportcoat with crisp white dress shirt, black vest and bowtie. Jos. A Bank; Mandeville, 985-624-4067; Metairie, 620-2265; and New Orleans, 528-9491. 5. Estate earrings with 10 cts of sapphires accentuated by sparkling round cut diamonds, $6,300. Friend & Company, 866-5433. 6. Heather Elizabeth antiquefinish bracelet with Jet Czech glass beads,
4
$60. The Shop at The Collection, The Historic New Orleans Collection, 598-7147.
5
6
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August-September 2018 75
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Inside New Orleans
INside Look 2
3
1 5
1. Lycra sun protection shirts in adult and youth sizes, $20. Love
4
Swimming, 891-4662. 2. TOGO leopard frame by Francis Klein Glasses, $489. Optical Shoppe, 301-1726. 3. Platinum and diamond earrings, $52,000. Adler’s, 5235292. 4. Terry cloth robe, $119. The Pontchartrain Hotel, 800-708-6652.
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5. BABOR Beauty Rescue ampoule concentrates for stressed skin. The Grand Hotel Point Clear Resort & Spa, Alabama, 251-990-6013. 6. Woven palm leaf collapsible bag with white tassels, $25. The Shop at
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Longue Vue, 488-5488. 7. Trista shift dress in Resort White, $198. Palm Village – A Lilly Pulitzer Store, Mandeville, 985-778-2547.
August-September 2018 77
IN Development
The South Market District The South Market District encompasses a burgeoning five-block area in the heart of downtown New Orleans. The first mixed-use, transit-oriented development downtown, South Market combines luxury apartments with some of the city’s best retailers, restaurants and entertainment venues, including the nearby Ace Hotel. Once complete, the $500M South Market will include 1,000 luxury apartments and condominiums; 200,000 square feet of retail space, including a 40,000 square foot full-service gourmet grocer (Rouses Market); and 1,300 garage parking spaces. southmarketdistrict.com.
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THE STANDARD AT SOUTH MARKET has opened the doors of its 15-story luxury condominium building, exceeding expectations. With 50 percent of the building sold, The Standard is the top-selling condominium product in New Orleans. It has set a record for the highest-priced condominium sold in the city at $3.215M for one of two penthouses*, with both penthouses sold. The Standard’s residences offer a range of pricing, layouts and views, with currently available units starting at $650,000 for a one-bedroom, $785,000 for a two-bedroom and $1,189,000 for a three-bedroom. “We’re just as excited about the building’s grand opening as the community members and buyers who have chosen to call our newest project home,” says Matt Schwartz, Principal of The Domain Companies, The Standard at South Market’s developers. “We’re proud to introduce a level of product never before seen in the New Orleans market, and look forward to expanding upon what South Market has to offer
photos: THE STANDARD
The Standard at South Market
locals and travelers in the city.” The Standard, the fourth development in Domain’s South Market District, offers 89 one-to-three-bedroom, for-sale luxury condominiums and 24,000 square feet of retail space. Designed by renowned architect and New Orleans native Morris Adjmi, The Standard features a reflective metal façade, deeply set windows and 20-foothigh retail storefronts. Its downtown location places it at the center of some of the city’s best dining, shopping and entertainment venues. “Our goal was to reference the architecture and natural flora of New Orleans,” says Morris Adjmi, The Standard at South Market’s architect, regarding the building’s design aesthetic. “We wanted to create a built environment that was both >>
photo: THE STANDARD
authentic and drew on the historical context of the surrounding area.” The building doubles as an expansive art gallery, displaying large-scale works by local, national, and international artists, including Donald Martiny, Mallory Page, Windy Chien, James McNabb, Katrine Hildebrandt, Marjorie Pierson and Meghann Riepenhoff. The heart of the building features nearly 30,000 square feet of indoor/outdoor amenity space, including a pool house and deck with private cabanas, outdoor kitchens, a clubhouse for entertaining and a fully-equipped fitness center. A full-time concierge, secure storage and on-site parking round out the building’s amenities.
The Domain Companies Founded in 2004, The Domain Companies is based in New Orleans and New York and specializes in the development and management of unique, mixed-use properties in core urban locations. Domain creates high-quality properties that stand apart through innovative design and exceptional management, enhancing the communities in which they build. Domain’s projects include the new construction and preservation of affordable, mixed-income, and
The Standard at South Market is located at 1001 Julia Street. For more information, please visit standardnola.com or stop by the sales gallery at 719 O’Keefe Avenue.
luxury housing; the acquisition and repositioning of distressed housing; historic restoration; brownfield redevelopment; seniors and special needs housing; and hospitality, retail,
*Data supplied in whole or in part by New Orleans Metropolitan Association of REALTORS® based on sales over $600,000. Pricing data dates back to 1994. 80
Inside New Orleans
and commercial development. thedomaincos.com.
August-September 2018 81
Preventing Knee Injuries
by Leslie Cardé
OUR KNEES TAKE THE BRUNT of virtually every move
Building strong bones should be supplemented with other elements in a total program to prevent bone loss. A balanced, calcium-rich diet is essential for strong bones. Foods that contain large amounts of calcium
we make. Whether it’s walking, jumping, running or
are: Milk; poppy, sesame, celery and chia seeds;
climbing stairs, the full impact and weight of these
cheese; low-fat yogurt; sardines and canned
movements rests on those two hinge joints within our
salmon; beans and lentils; dark leafy greens; figs;
knees. And, although medical advances have allowed us to
edamame; and tofu.
surgically replace our knees in minimally invasive ways with newer, improved implants, optimally we would all like to keep our knees intact for the duration of our lives. A lifetime of walking and exercising wears down the smooth
The recommended daily intake for calcium is 1000 milligrams. If you’re not getting enough of this nutrient from your food, consider taking a daily supplement. When the body doesn’t intake enough
rubbery connective tissue, known as cartilage, which covers and protects
calcium from the diet, it extracts calcium from your
the ends of the bones in our knees. The result is the loss of cushioning, in
bones, resulting in loss of bone mass, a precursor to
which bone is now rubbing against bone. This can produce bone spurs,
osteoporosis. Remember to accompany the calcium
can lead to inflammation, and can make simple walking painful. This
supplement with Vitamin D, which helps the body
situation can lead to swelling, and ultimately osteoarthritis.
absorb the calcium.
So, how do we preserve our knees—those vital weight-
To maintain healthy knees, it is imperative
bearing bones and joints? Exercise, accident prevention
to prevent injuries. According to the American
and sports nutrition are all a part of keeping the knees
Medical Society for Sports Medicine, overuse
in tip-top shape. The following recommendations from the American Academy of Orthopedic Surgeons will help you stay healthy. Since your bones actually become stronger when they are being used, it is essential to exercise with weights. As we age, our bones can
injuries are largely responsible for damage to our knees. These injuries can include everything from stress fractures to runner’s knee to shin splints. The Society recommends commonsense ways to avoid these overuse injuries. Warm up before you start doing strenuous lunges. Use well-
become weak, fragile and thin. This condition is called osteoporosis.
maintained shoes with good cushioning. If you have knee pain
(X-rays of osteoporotic bone resembles Swiss cheese, with pervasive
following an injury, remember r-i-c-e (rest, ice, compression, and
holes throughout the bone.) This bone thinning puts everyone at risk
elevation). While knees are swollen or sore, avoid the following
for broken bones. Much like muscles become stronger with weight
positions: squatting, kneeling, twisting and pivoting or dance aerobics.
lifting, so too do bones. With regular exercise using weights, bone
Orthopedists point out that obesity is linked to chronic knee pain.
adapts by building more cells and becoming more dense. Another perk
For the millions of people who are carrying extra weight, even a small
of exercising is improving balance and coordination, making falls and
weight loss can help reduce pain and lower the risk of osteoarthritis.
possible breaks less likely.
The excess load on your knee joints causes an accelerated rate of
To engage in weight-bearing and strength-training exercises, the following activities are recommended: brisk walking and
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using your own body weight (push-ups, pull-ups).
deterioration of the knee cartilage and the support tissues. Exercise, eat well, and try to prevent injuries. But, if you sustain
hiking; jogging or running; dancing; jumping rope; playing
an injury in which pain and swelling persist, call your orthopedic or
tennis; stair climbing; using weight machines or free weights; and
sports medicine specialist for a professional diagnosis.
Inside New Orleans
IN Better Health
by Leah Draffen Health Concern: Leg pain and numbness. Treatment: Microdiscectomy.
photo: THOMAS B. GROWDEN
with Lenderay Wilson, Jr. WHILE ON THE JOB, Lenderay Wilson Jr. bent down to pick up a wire and felt a twinge in his lower back. Although not uncommon, the discomfort heightened after a car accident. “I was the primary source of income for my family, so the progress was aggravating and slow trying to get back to normal. After months of treatment by my physician, he referred me to Dr. Katz,” says Lenderay. Dr. Ralph Katz of Westside Orthopaedic Clinic says: “Lenderay was experiencing leg pain and numbness to his foot from lateral disc herniation. For the right patient—one who has failed conservative treatment of medication, physical therapy and injections— minimally invasive microdiscectomy can be done in an outpatient setting with an incision that can be covered by a band-aid.” Such procedures typically take less than an hour, and most patients are back to normal activities within three to six weeks, depending on
individual’s circumstances. Following surgery, Lenderay only needed stretching to get back on track. He says: “After the surgery, I immediately felt relief and began to thank God for the knowledge and skill Dr. Katz has. He is amazing at what he does. Everything was explained and articulated with care and precision. There was nothing that I did not understand about the procedure, its rarity and complexity. He, along with nurse Jen and Annette, put me at ease.” Dr. Katz is a specialist in minimally invasive spine surgery. For over 19 years, he has practiced at Westside Orthopaedic Clinic and has performed over 500 such procedures with consistently excellent patient outcomes. As a full-service orthopaedic clinic, Westside Orthopaedic Clinic offers cervical-disc surgery and a wide array of care, including upper-extremity care for shoulder, elbow, wrist and hand problems. August-September 2018 83
M A R R I A G E A N D L O V E I N
Conner-Simmons
William Allen Conner and Madeline Avery Simmons
exchanged vows under an ancient oak tree at the Marsh House, a family home on Avery Island. Madeline graced the aisle in a full-lace, off-the-shoulder Yvonne Lafleur gown, which was complemented by her mother’s wedding day earrings and the veil worn by Madeline’s sister on her own wedding day. The maids, who wore elegant sage green gowns, were preceded down the aisle by 14 flower girls. The ceremony was officiated by the bride’s uncle, Honorable Cameron B. Simmons, in the same place where her maid of honor, her sister, said vows one year earlier. Following the ceremony, guests enjoyed a raw seafood bar of oysters, shrimp and which was a surprise for the groom. The scene was set with a tented yard and string lights twinkling in the oaks. Groove Addiction from Nashville inspired plenty of dancing, and fireworks concluded the celebration. The happy couple honeymooned in Dublin, Ireland, before returning to their Uptown home. 84
Inside New Orleans
photos: ANGELA JANETTE
more, including Tabasco char-grilled oysters and Burritos-to-Go,
M A R R I A G E A N D L O V E I N
Hebert-Battaglia Justin Hebert and Christian Battaglia happily wed at St. Anthony of Padua Church on Canal Street. The bride wore a trumpet-style lace dress with a train and illusion top. Christian’s sister, Caroline, stood as maid of honor and the groom’s brother, Dylan, was his best man. The bride and her maids carried white florals with emerald foliage and hints of blue. Guests reconvened to celebrate at the Pavilion of Two Sisters in City Park, where the Louisiana Spice Band kept everyone on the dance floor. Traditional New Orleans cuisine photos: CANDRA GEORGE mycreativereality.com
of shrimp and grits, gumbo and an ACME oyster bar were enjoyed by all. The bride’s four-tier traditional wedding cake and the groom’s fourtier king cake were created by Haydel’s Bakery. Reception highlights included Justin lifting the bride’s sister, Caroline, onto his shoulders while everyone sang Sweet Caroline and a second-line exit. The newlyweds traveled to St. Lucia for their honeymoon before returning home to Lafayette. August-September 2018 85
INside Peek 1. John Foley, Michael Williamson, Karin Stafford Bird, Rick Young, Pam Masson, Gary Lorio, Patty Riddlebarger, Jack Merrill, Kalisa Hyman, Jerry Forestall and Amy Coakley after United Way announced Southeast Louisiana’s
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2018 Most Generous Workplaces. 2. Diane Lyons, Dr. K. Renee Horton, Mayor LaToya
Tricentennial Women’s Day. 3. FestiGals 2018 Stephanie Burks (center) with members Reagan Charleston and Tamica Lee of her Wonder Women of NOLA krewe that raised $3,955 for the New Orleans Family Justice Center in the Step Up Second-Line Parade.
photo: RIVERVIEW PHOTOGRAPHY
Cantrell and Sandra Dartus at the FestiGals
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4. Caroline Mang, Shawn Carroll, Debby Counce and Ashley Lengsfield at the grand opening celebration of The Standard at South Market. 5. Dr. Shelly Gupta, Lisa Brener, Dr. Reagan Gupta and Max Cusimano at the Gray Matters fundraiser to benefit the Brain Tumor Initiative at LSU Neurosurgery.
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Inside New Orleans
1. Academy of the Sacred Heart Headmistress Sr. Melanie Guste, RSCJ, and Dr. Bridget Bagert, Director of the Ochsner Multiple Sclerosis Center and Neurology Research at the Ochsner Neuroscience Institute, who was the alumna guest speaker at the Baccalaureate Mass. 2. Dress for
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Success New Orleans Client of the Year Daviauna Morrell and Meaghan Bonavita at the Dress for Success New Orleans Suits and Salads Luncheon. 3. Academy of the Sacred Heart’s salutatorian Lily Conroy and valedictorian Claire Moreau at the 131st graduation in the school’s front courtyard on St. Charles Avenue. 4. Rubye Noble and Volunteers of America’s 2018 Outstanding Community Service Award recipient David Fennelly at the Volunteers of America Southeast Louisiana Awards Dinner. 5. Jana
at the Harry Tompson Homeless Center Gala. 6. The Patrick F. Taylor Foundation 18 in ’18 finalists with Phyllis Taylor (back center).
photo: SCOTT FORBES
Fogelman, JoAnn Dunn and Tracey Lightfoot
August-September 2018 87
INside Peek
The invitation’s watercolor illustration of a pink flamingo set the tone for a Palm Beach Island-inspired night for debutantes Emily June Hardie, Erin Colleen Tolar, Lilia Elise Kuhn, Lucie Sandoz Lanier, Margaret Doyle Malone and Megan Maria McGoey. Whimsical hand-painted signage by Cynthia Koerner and a candlelit stroll through the Zoo welcomed guests to the Audubon Tea Room as peacocks freely roamed nearby. The tropical evening began with a signature cocktail, the Fizzy Flamingo, under the tent in the Garden. Flamingo centerpieces, tropical arrangements by Meade Wenzel and hand-painted decorative panels of palm fronds framed the pink-lit Tea Room in an Old World tropical paradise. Music by Atlanta’s Big Bling and the Funk Machine filled the air, gathering Emily, Erin, Lilia, Lucie, Margaret and Megan on stage for They All Asked for You. Guests were treated to a New Orleans-inspired menu of seafood, steak sandwiches and hand-passed hors d’oeuvres. Colorful desserts reiterated the theme with personalized tropical cookies by Joan Farrell, macarons and cake pops by Rosary Chetta. As celebration and libations continued, late-night snacks of hot beignet sticks, grilled cheeses and sliders filled any hunger brought on by dancing. 88
Inside New Orleans
photos: JOSH BRASTED
Palm Beach Island
photos: NORRIS GAGNET
Dancing in the Moonlight Family, friends and guests gathered for an evening of Dancing in the Moonlight to celebrate debutantes Caroline Chunn, Julia Plauché, Chloe Pelitere, Katherine Verlander, Madeleine Landry, Elizabeth Reed, Shea Duckworth, Lauren Paysse and Elizabeth Toso at the Mansion in Mardi Gras World. Huge luminous balloons with silver streamers throughout the foyer and entrance hall lighted the way for guests as they passed black and white portraits of the nine honorees. Floral arrangements of white roses and hydrangeas decorated the tables and votive candles framed the expansive view of the Mississippi from the Mansion’s second-floor Riverview Room. The debs and their mothers dressed in a variety of summer colors and silhouettes, while the fathers donned a uniformed look of white linen suits and matching NOLA Couture neckties. The night’s signature cocktail, Moonlight Martini, was chilled on an ice luge carved in the shape of a crescent moon and stars. Guests enjoyed a bountiful menu of food and buffet stations as well as desserts while dancing to the music of the Bucktown Allstars. As the evening came to a close, the debs, wearing illuminated white floral wreaths, rallied near the stage for Dancing in the Moonlight. August-September 2018 89
Opening Night of The New Orleans Shakespeare Festival at Tulane While New Orleans celebrates its 300th birthday, The New Orleans Shakespeare Festival at Tulane commemorates an anniversary of its own. Twenty-five years ago, several Tulane faculty members joined forces to create New Orleans’ own professional classical theatre company, and since that time, the Festival has grown into one of the South’s most noteworthy producers of Shakespeare’s work. In celebration of its silver anniversary, the Festival offered an array of unique programming, with two main stage productions, All’s Well That Ends Well and Macbeth. The opening nights attracted many faithful followers of the Festival, as well as students, teachers, board members and patrons. Each opening night production was followed by a party where all theatregoers could mingle while enjoying libations and light snacks in Tulane’s Lupin Hall. The mission of the New Orleans Shakespeare Festival at Tulane is to produce professional, classical theatre with a primary focus upon the works of William Shakespeare. Its commitment is to utilize local, national and international talent to create dynamic, visceral, text-based performances celebrating Shakespeare’s brilliant insight into the human condition. With this programming, the Festival provides to the people of the Gulf South both entertainment and educational resources of the highest quality, honoring Shakespeare’s legacy.
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Inside New Orleans
photos courtesy: SHAKESPEARE FESTIVAL AT TULANE
INside Peek
August-September 2018 91
IN Great Taste by Yvette Jemison
Steak Tartare Yes, you can make it at home. YOU MIGHT THINK that steak tartare is only to be ordered in restaurants, but the truth is that it can be made at home. If you’re able to get your hands on top-quality beef, this is a great way to serve it. Here are a few basic tips to create your at-home tartare that can be as good as at your favorite steakhouse. This is one of those times that you’ll want to visit your local butcher or specialty meat shop. The one non-negotiable is that you must buy good, fresh beef. Because you’ll be serving the beef raw, be sure to let your butcher know you’ll be preparing it as tartare so that you’ll get the best and freshest cut of meat. Chilling and freezing are important tips for optimal taste and texture. You’ll be freezing the steak just until the meat firms up, making it easier to chop. While you’re at it, go ahead and toss your mixing bowls, utensils and serving platter in the freezer, too. Just a few minutes of freezing your mixing bowls and platter will ensure your tartare 92
Inside New Orleans
stays chilled while mixing and serving. Get creative with your mix-ins! The standards include egg, shallots, capers, parsley, salt and pepper. You can add brininess with finely chopped olives or mashed anchovies. Add a little crunch with sesame seeds. Chives are a good substitute for the shallots and also add a pop of color. Tartare is defined by its mix-ins, so create your very own signature blend. Tartare is traditionally served with toast points, but the crunch of lightly toasted slices of baguette works beautifully with this recipe. After mounding the tartare on a chilled plate or bowl, serve with your favorite garnishes. Add pickled accompaniments such as cornichons, capers or onions to cut through the rich beef. The last little addition is pungent mustard. Select grainy or ground mustard; both complement this dish. The beauty of tartare is that it’s really up to you. So, if you want to top it off with salty caviar, go for it!
Steak Tartare 4-6 servings 10-12 oz. prime filet mignon 1 egg yolk 2 Tablespoon olive oil 1 Tablespoon Dijon mustard 2 Tablespoons shallots, minced 2 Tablespoons capers, chopped 2 Tablespoons parsley, chopped 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1/2 tsp fresh cracked pepper 3 dashes Tabasco hot sauce
Simple Crostini 16-20 crostini olive oil and arrange in a single 3 Tablespoons olive oil layer on a rimmed baking sheet. 1/2 teaspoon salt 4. Season with salt and 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, and bake until the crust is pepper golden, 8-10 minutes.
photos: YVETTE JEMISON
1 baguette
1. Preheat oven to 425°F. 2. Diagonally cut the baguette into 1/4” slices. 3. Lightly brush each side with
Do Ahead: Crostini may be made up to 2 days ahead and kept in an airtight container at room temperature.
1. Place steak in the freezer just until the surface is frozen and the inside is chilled but not frozen, 1-2 hours depending on your freezer setting. 2. Using a sharp knife, cut beef into sheets. Quickly working in batches, stack the sheets and cut into strips. Cut the strips into cubes. Transfer to a bowl and refrigerate. 3. Just before serving, in a medium bowl, whisk egg yolk, olive oil and mustard until emulsified. Add shallots, capers, parsley, salt, pepper and hot sauce and whisk until well blended. 4. Fold in chilled and cubed steak until well coated. Served immediately on a chilled platter, spooning half of the tartare into a small mound. Refrigerate the remaining tartare and replenish as needed. Do Ahead: Beef can be cut 2 hours ahead and kept chilled. For more recipes, visit YDelicacies. com. We’d love to see your version of tartare. Show us your creations by tagging us on Instagram at @InsideNewOrleans. August-September 2018 93
INside Dining New Orleans is home to more great restaurants than we could hope to list here. For a comprehensive listing of restaurants in the New Orleans metro area, please refer to Tom Fizmorris’ nomenu.com. In this guide, you will find some of the best bets around town. Tom’s fleur de lis ratings are shown.
Chophouse aaa Steak, 322 Magazine St., 504Desi Vega’s aaaa Steak, 628 St. Charles Ave., 504-523-7600 Domenica aaaa Italian, 123 Baronne St. (Roosevelt Hotel), 504-648-6020 Drago’s aaaa Seafood, 2 Poydras St., 504-584-
CARROLLTON, RIVERBEND AND BROADMOOR Babylon Café aaa Middle Eastern, 7724 Maple St., 504-314-0010 Barcelona Tapas aaa Spanish, 720 Dublin St., 504-861-9696 Basil Leaf aaa Thai, 1438 S. Carrollton Ave., 504862-9001 Boucherie aaaa Southern Barbecue, 1506 S. Carrollton Ave., 504-862-5514 Brigtsen’s aaaa Contemporary Creole, 723 Dante St., 504-861-7610 Cooter Brown’s Tavern aaa Sandwiches, 509 S. Carrollton Ave., 504-866-9104 Dante’s Kitchen aaaa Eclectic, 736 Dante St., 504-861-3121 Dat Dog a Craft Hot Dogs, 5030 Freret St., 504899-6883 Hana aaa Japanese, 8116 Hampson, 504-8651634 Jacques-Imo’s aaa Cajun, 8324 Oak St., 504861-0886 Lebanon’s Café aaa Middle Eastern, 1500 S. Carrollton Ave., 504-862-6200 Louisiana Pizza Kitchen aaa Pizza, 615 S. Carrollton Ave., 504-866-5900 Maple Street Café aaa Creole Italian, 7623 Maple St., 504-314-9003 Mat & Naddie’s aaaa Eclectic, 937 Leonidas St.,
Ave., 504-488-1881 Mona’s Café aa Middle Eastern, 1120 S. Carrollton Ave., 504-861-8174 Panchita’s aaa Central American, 1434 S. Carrollton Ave., 504-281-4127 Pupuseria La Macarena aaa Central American, 8120 Hampson St., 504-862-5252 Riccobono’s Panola Street Café aa Breakfast, 7801 Panola St., 504-314-1810 Vincent’s aaaa Italian, 7839 St. Charles Ave., 504-866-9313 Ye Olde College Inn aaa Neighborhood Café, 3000 S. Carrollton Ave., 504-866-3683 CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT Blue Room aaa American, 123 Baronne, Roosevelt Hotel. 504-648-1200 Bon Ton Café aaa Cajun, 401 Magazine St., 504524-3386 Borgne aaa Seafood, 601 Loyola Ave. (Hyatt Regency Hotel), 504-613-3860 Café Adelaide aaaa Contemporary Creole, 300 Poydras St., 504-595-3305
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The Davenport Lounge Small bites and cocktails, 921 Canal Street (The Ritz-Carlton, New Orleans) 504-670-2828 Deanie’s Seafood Seafood, 841 Iberville St., 504581-1316 Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse aaa Steak, 716
3911 Herbsaint aaaa Creole French, 701 St. Charles Ave., 504-524-4114 Liborio aaa Cuban, 321 Magazine St., 504-581-
Iberville St., 504-522-2467 El Gato Negro aaa Mexican, 81 French Market Place, 504-525-9752 Frank’s aaa Creole Italian, 933 Decatur St., 504-
9680 Legacy Kitchen’s Oyster Counter + Tap Room aa American, 817 Common St, 504-827-1651 Lucky Rooster aaa Pan-Asian, 515 Baronne St., 504-529-5825 Lüke aaa French, 333 St. Charles Ave., 504-378-
525-1602 Galatoire’s aaaa Creole French, 209 Bourbon St., 504-525-2021 Galatoire’s 33 Bar & Steak aaa Steak, 215 Bourbon St., 504-335-3932 Gumbo Shop aaa Creole, 630 St. Peter St., 504-
2840 MiLa aaaa Eclectic, 817 Common St., 504-412-
525-1486 GW Fins aaaa Seafood, 808 Bienville St., 504-
2580 Morton’s The Steakhouse aaa Steak, 365 Canal St. (Canal Place Mall), 504-566-0221 Mother’s aaa Sandwiches, 401 Poydras St., 504-
581-3467 Irene’s Cuisine aaaa Italian, 539 St. Philip St., 504-529-8811 K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen aaaa Cajun, 416
523-9656 Poppy’s Crazy Lobster Bar & Grill a Seafood, 500 Port of New Orelans Pl., Suite 83. 504-569-3380 Poppy’s Time Out Sports Bar & Grill. Hamburgers. 1 Poydras St. (Riverfront). 504-247-9265 Restaurant August aaaaa Eclectic, 301 Tchoupitoulas St., 504-299-9777 Ruby Slipper Café aaa Breakfast, Neighborhood Café, 200 Magazine St., 504-525-9355 Ruth’s Chris Steak House aaa Steak, 525 Fulton St., 504-587-7099 Windsor Court Grill Room aaa American, 300 Gravier St., 504-522-1994
Chartres St., 504-596-2530 Kingfish aaaa Cajun, 337 Chartres St., 504-5985005 Louisiana Bistro aaa Contemporary Creole, 337 Dauphine St., 504-525-3335 Louisiana Pizza Kitchen aaa Pizza, 95 French Market Place, 504-522-9500 M Bistro aaaFarm to Table Restaurant 921 Canal Street (The Ritz-Carlton, New Orleans) 504-6702828 Mr. B’s Bistro aaaa Contemporary Creole, 201 Royal St., 504-523-2078 Muriel’s aaaa Contemporary Creole, 801
504-861-9600 Mikimoto aaaa Japanese, 3301 S. Carrollton
Dat Dog a Craft Hot Dogs, 601 Frenchmen St., 505-309-3362
522-7902
FRENCH QUARTER Acme Oyster House aaa Seafood, 724 Iberville St., 504-522-5973 Antoine’s aaaa Creole French, 713 St. Louis St., 504-581-4422 Arnaud’s aaaa Creole French, 813 Bienville St., 504-523-5433 Bayona aaaa Eclectic, 430 Dauphine St., 504525-4455 Bombay Club aaa Contemporary Creole, 830 Conti St., 504-577-2237 Bourbon House aaa Seafood, 144 Bourbon St., 504-522-0111 Brennan’s Contemporary Creole, 417 Royal St., 504-525-9711 Broussard’s aaaa Creole French, 819 Conti St., 504581-3866 Court of Two Sisters aaa Creole French, 613 Royal St., 504-522-7261 Crescent City Brewhouse aaa Pub Food, 527 Decatur St., 504-522-0571 Criollo aaa Creole French, 214 Royal St., 504681-4444
Chartres St., 504-568-1885 Napoleon House aa Sandwiches, 500 Chartres St., 504-524-9752 New Orleans Creole Cookery Classic Creole, 510 Toulouse St., 504-524-9632 NOLA aaaa Contemporary Creole, 534 St. Louis St., 504-522-6652 Palace Café aaa Contemporary Creole, 605 Canal St., 504-523-1661 Pelican Club aaaaa Contemporary Creole, 312 Exchange Place, 504-523-1504 Port of Call aaa Hamburgers, 838 Esplanade Ave., 504-523-0120 R’evolution aaaa Creole French, 777 Bienville, 504-553-2277 Red Fish Grill aaa Seafood, 115 Bourbon St., 504-598-1200 Rib Room aaa American, 621 St. Louis St., 504529-7045 SoBou aaa Contemporary Creole, 310 Chartres St., 504-552-4095 Ted Brennan’s Decatur Classic French Creole, 309 Decatur St., 504-525-7877 The Country Club Contemporary Creole, 634 Louisa
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St., 504-945-0742 Trinity aaa Contemporary Creole, 117 Decatur St., 504-325-5789 Tujague’s aaa Creole, 823 Decatur St., 504-5258676 Vacherie aaa Creole Homestyle, 827 1/2 Toulouse St., 504-207-4532 GARDEN DISTRICT Caribbean Room 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504-5231500 Commander’s Palace aaaaa Contemporary Creole, 1403 Washington Ave., 504-899-8221 Coquette aaaa Creole French, 2800 Magazine St., 504-265-0421 Delmonico aaaa Contemporary Creole, 1300 St. Charles Ave., 504-525-4937 Juan’s Flying Burrito aaa Mexican, 2018 Magazine St., 504-569-0000 Mr. John’s Steakhouse aaaa Steak, 2111 St. Charles Ave., 504-679-7697 Sushi Brothers aaa Japanese, 1612 St. Charles Ave., 504-581-4449 Tracey’s aaa Sandwiches, 2604 Magazine St., 504-897-5413 LAKEVIEW Café Navarre aa Sandwiches, 800 Navarre Ave., 504-483-8828 Cava aaaa New Orleans Style, 785 Harrison Ave, New Orleans LA 70124, 504-304-9034 El Gato Negro aaa Mexican, 300 Harrison Ave., 504-488-0107 Lakeview Harbor aaa Hamburgers, 911 Harrison Ave., 504-486-4887 Mondo aaa Eclectic, 900 Harrison Ave., 504224-2633 Munch Factory aaa Contemporary Creole, 6325 Elysian Fields Ave., 504-324-5372 Ralph’s On The Park aaaa Contemporary Creole, 900 City Park Ave., 504-488-1000 Sala Cocktails and Small Plates, 124 Lake Marina, 504-513-2670 Steak Knife aaa Contemporary Creole, 888 Harrison Ave., 504-488-8981 METAIRIE Acme Oyster House aaa Seafood, 3000 Veterans Blvd., 504-309-4056 Andrea’s aaa Italian, 3100 19th St., 504-8348583 Andy’s Bisro aaa American, 3322 N. Turnbull Dr. 504-455-7363 Austin’s aaaa Creole, 5101 West Esplanade Ave., 504-888-5533 Caffe! Caffe! aa Breakfast, 4301 Clearview Pkwy., 504-885-4845; 3547 N. Hullen., 504-267-9190 Café East aaa Pan-Asian, 4628 Rye St., 504888-0078 Carreta’s Grill a Mexican, 2320 Veterans Blvd., 504-837-6696; 1821 Hickory Ave., Harahan,
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Canal Street Bistro aaa Mexican, 3903 Canal St.,
504-305-4833 Casablanca aaa Mediterranean, 3030 Severn Ave., 504-888-2209 China Rose aaa Chinese, 3501 N. Arnoult St.,
504-482-1225 Crescent City Steak House aaa Steak, 1001 N. Broad St., 504-821-3271 Dooky Chase aaa Creole, 2301 Orleans Ave.,
504-887-3295 Crabby Jack’s aaa Sandwiches, 428 Jefferson Hwy., Jefferson, 504-833-2722 Cypress aaa Contemporary Creole, 4426 Transcontinental Blvd., 504-885-6885 Dat Dog a Craft Hot Dogs, 3301 Veterans Memorial Blvd. (Lakeside Mall), 504-304-7005 Drago’s aaaa Seafood, 3232 N. Arnoult Rd.,
504-821-0600 Five Happiness aaa Chinese, 3605 S. Carrollton Ave., 504-482-3935 Juan’s Flying Burrito aaa Mexican, 4724 S. Carrollton Ave., 504-486-9950 Katie’s aaa Neighborhood Café, 3701 Iberville St., 504-488-6582 Little Tokyo aaa Japanese, 310 N. Carrollton
504-888-9254 Heritage Grill Contemporary Creole, 111 Veterans Blvd., 504-934-4900 Impastato’s aaaa Creole Italian, 3400 16th St.,
Ave., 504-485-5658 Liuzza’s aaa Neighborhood Café, 3636 Bienville St., 504-482-9120 Mandina’s aaa Italian, Seafood, 3800 Canal St.,
504-455-1545 Legacy Kitchen aa American. 759 Veterans Memorial Blvd. 504-309-5231 Little Tokyo aaa Japanese, 2300 N. Causeway Blvd., 504-831-6788 Martin Wine Cellar Deli aaa Deli, 714 Elmeer Ave., 504-896-7300 Mellow Mushroom aa Pizza, 30 craft beers on tap, 3131 Veterans Memorial Blvd., 504-6444155
504-482-9179 Parkway Poor Boys aaa Sandwiches, 538 Hagan Ave., 504-482-3047 Ruby Slipper Café aaa Breakfast, Neighborhood Café, 139 S. Cortez St., 504-309-5531 Rue 127 aaaa Contemporary Creole, 127 N. Carrollton Ave., 504-483-1571 SWEGS Kitchen Healthy comfort food, 231 N. Carrollton Ave., Ste. B, 504-301-9196
Mr. Ed’s aaa Neighborhood Café, 1001 Live Oak St., 504-838-0022 Mr. Ed’s Oyster Bar & Fish House aaa Seafood, 3117 21St. Street, 504-833-6310 Parran’s Po-Boys aaa Sandwiches, 3939 Veterans Blvd., 504-885-3416
Toups’ Meatery aaa Cajun, 845 N. Carrollton Ave., 504-252-4999 Venezia aaa Italian, 134 N. Carrollton Ave., 504488-7991
Severn Ave., 504-455-2266 Ristorante Filippo aaa Creole Italian, 1917 Ridgelake Dr., 504-835-4008 Ruth’s Chris Steak House aaaa Steak, 3633 Veterans Blvd., 504-888-3600
Covington, 985-400-5202; 1200 W. Causeway Approach, Mandeville, 985-624-2990 La Provence aaaa French, 25020 US 190, Lacombe, 985-626-7662 Lakehouse aaa Contemporary Creole, 2025 Lakeshore Dr., Mandeville, 985-626-3006 Mandina’s aaa Italian, Seafood, 4240 La 22, Mandeville, 985-674-9883 Mattina Bella aaa Breakfast, 421 E. Gibson St., Covington, 985-892-0708 Nathan’s aaaa Contemporary Creole, 36440 Old Bayou Liberty Rd., Slidell, 985-643-0443 New Orleans Food & Spiritsaaa Seafood, 208 Lee Lane, Covington, 985-875-0432 Nuvolari’s aaaa Creole Italian, 246 Girod St., Mandeville, 985-626-5619 Ox Lot 9 aaa Contemporary, 428 E Boston St., Covington, 985-400-5663 Pardo’s aaaa Contemporary Creole, 69305 Hwy 21, Covington, 985-893-3603 Ristorante Del Porto aaaa Italian, 501 E. Boston St., Covington, 985-875-1006 Sal and Judy’s aaaa Italian, 27491 Highway 190, Lacombe, 985-882-9443 Zea aaa American, 110 Lake Dr., Covington, 985327-0520; 173 Northshore Blvd., Slidell, 985-3270520 OLD METAIRIE
St. Ann St., 504-822-9503
Byblos aaa Middle Eastern, 1501 Metairie Rd., NEW ORLEANS EAST
504-457-4188
21, Madisonville, 985-845-9940 La Carreta aaa Mexican, 812 Hyw 190,
Willie Mae’s Scotch House aaa Chicken, 2401
Pho Orchid aaa Vietnamese, 3117 Houma Blvd., Riccobono’s Peppermill aaa Creole Italian, 3524
Keith Young’s Steak House aaaa Steak, 165 LA
Castnet Seafood aaa Seafood speciality, 108261/2 Hayne Blvd., 504-244-8446 Deanie’s on Hayne aaa Seafood, 7350 Hayne Blvd., 504-248-6700 Messina’s Runway Cafe Creole Homestyle, 6001 Stars and Stripes Blvd., 504-241-5300
504-834-9773 Café B aaa Contemporary Creole, 2700 Metairie Rd., 504-934-4700 Galley Seafood aaa Seafood, 2535 Metairie Rd., 504-832-0955 Porter & Luke’s aaa Creole Homestyle, 1517 Metairie Rd., 504-875-4555
Sandro’s Trattoria aaa Creole Italian, 6601 Veterans Blvd., 504-888-7784 Shogun aaaa Japanese, 2325 Veterans Blvd., 504-833-7477
NORTHSHORE
UPTOWN
Acme Oyster House aaa Seafood, 1202 US 190,
Ancora Pizzeria aaa Pizza, 4508 Freret St., 504-
Covington, 985-246-6155
Taqueria Corona aaa Mexican, 3535 Severn Ave., 504-885-5088
Café Lynn aaaa Contemporary Creole, 2600 Florida St., Mandeville, 985-624-9007
Vincent’s aaaa Creole Italian, 4411 Chastant St., 504-885-2984
Carreta’s Grill a Mexican, 1340 Lindberg Dr., Slidell, 985-847-0020; 70380 LA Hwy. 21, Covington,
Zea aaa American, 4450 Veterans Blvd. (Clearview Mall), 504-780-9090; 1655 Hickory Ave., Harahan, 504-738-0799
985-871-6674 The Chimes aaa Cajun, 19130 W. Front St., Covington, 985-892-5396 Dakota aaaa Contemporary Creole, 629 N. US
MID-CITY Angelo Brocato aaa Dessert and Coffee, 214 N. Carrollton Ave., 504-486-0078 Café Degas aaa French, 3127 Esplanade Ave., 504-945-5635 Café Minh aaaa Vietnamese, 4139 Canal St., 504-482-6266 Cafe NOMA Contemporary Creole,
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1 Collins Diboll Circle, 504-482-1264
Inside New Orleans
190, Covington, 985-892-3712 DiCristina’s aaa Italian, 810 N. Columbia St., Covington, 985-875-0160 Fazzio’saa Italian,1841 N. Causeway Blvd., Mandeville, 985-624-9704 Gallagher’s Grill aaaa Contemporary Creole, 509 S. Tyler St., Covington, 985-892-9992 George’s aaa Mexican, 1461 N. Causeway Blvd., Mandeville, 985-626-4342
324-1636 Apolline aaaa American Gourmet, 4729 Magazine St., 504-894-8881 Atchafalaya aaaa Contemporary Creole, 901 Louisiana Ave., 504-891-9626 Baru Bistro & Tapas aaa Caribbean, 3700 Magazine St., 504-895-2225 Bistro Daisy aaaa Creole French, 5831 Magazine St., 504-899-6987 Casamento’s aaa Seafood, 4330 Magazine St., 504-895-9761 Charlie’s Steak House aaa Steak, 4510 Dryades St., 504-895-9323 Clancy’s aaaa Contemporary Creole, 6100 Annunciation St., 504-895-1111 Dat Dog aa Sandwiches, 3336 Magazine St., 504894-8885; 5030 Freret St., 504-899-6883 Dick & Jenny’s aaaa Contemporary Creole, 4501
Tchoupitoulas St., 504-894-9880 Flaming Torch aaa French, 737 Octavia St., 504-895-0900 Gautreau’s aaaa American, 1728 Soniat St., 504-899-7397 High Hat Café aa Creole Homestyle, 4500 Freret St., 504-754-1336 Joey K’s aaa Neighborhood Café, 3001 Magazine St., 504-891-0997 Kyoto aaa Japanese, 4920 Prytania St., 504-891-3644 La Crepe Nanou aaaa French, 1410 Robert St., 504-899-2670 La Petite Grocery aaaa French, 4238 Magazine St., 504-891-3377 La Thai Cuisine aaaa Thai, 4938 Prytania St., 504-899-8886 Lilette aaaa French, 3637 Magazine St., 504-895-1636 Mahony’s aaa Neighborhood Café, 3454 Magazine St., 504-899-3374 Martinique aaa French, 5908 Magazine St., 504-891-8495 Midway Pizza aaa Pizza, 4725 Freret St., 504-322-2815 Mona’s Café aa Middle Eastern, 4126
Creole, 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504-528-9393 Grand Isle aaa Seafood, 575 Convention Center Blvd., 504520-8530 Josephine Estelle Italian, 600 Carondelet St., 504-930-3070 La Boca aaaa Steak, 870 Tchoupitoulas St., 504-525-8205 Mais Arepas aaaa South American, 1200 Carondelet St., 504-523-6247 Opal Basil Artisan Sandwiches, 719 S. Peters St. Pêche Seafood Grill aaa Seafood, 800 Magazine St., 504-522-1744 Rock-n-Sake aaa Japanese, 823 Fulton St., 504-581-7253 Root aaaa Eclectic, 200 Julia St., 504-252-9480 Seaworthy Oysters and Cocktails, 600 Carondelet St., 504-930-3071 Tomas Bistro aaaa Creole French, 755 Tchoupitoulas St., 504-527-0942 Tommy’s Cuisine aaaa Creole Italian, 746 Tchoupitoulas St., 504-581-1103
Magazine St., 504-894-9800 Pascal’s Manale aaa Creole Italian, 1838 Napoleon Ave., 504-895-4877 Patois aaaa Creole French, 6078 Laurel St., 504-895-9441 Rum House aaa Caribbean, 3128 Magazine St., 504-941-7560 Slice aaa Pizza, 5538 Magazine St., 504-897-4800 Sukho Thai aaa Thai, 4519 Magazine St., 504-373-6471 Taqueria Corona aaa Mexican, 5932 Magazine St., 504-897-3974 Upperline aaaa Contemporary Creole, 1413 Upperline St., 504891-9822
WEST BANK Kim Son aaa Vietnamese, 349 Whitney Ave., 504-366-2489 La Fiesta aaa Mexican, 1412 Stumpf Blvd., 504-361-9142 La Providencia aaa Central American, 2300 Belle Chasse Hwy., 504-368-5724 Legacy Kitchen Steak + Chop aa American, 91 Westbank Expy., 504-513-2606 O’Brien’s aaaa Steak, 2020 Belle Chasse Hwy., 504-391-7229 Pho Bang aaa Vietnamese, 932 Westbank Expy., 504-872-9002
WAREHOUSE DISTRICT
WEST END AND BUCKTOWN
AND CENTRAL CITY
The Blue Crab aaa Seafood, 7900
American Sector aa American, 945 Magazine St., 504-528-1940 Annunciation aaaa Contemporary Creole, 1016 Annunciation St., 504-568-0245 Briquette Contemporary Coastal Cuisine, 701 S. Peters St. Café Reconcile aaa Lunch Café, 1631 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504-568-1157 Cochon aaa Cajun, 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 504-588-2123 Legacy Kitchen’s Craft Tavern aa Refined American Fare, 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 504-613-2350 Emeril’s aaaaa Contemporary
Lakeshore Dr., 504-284-2898 Brisbi’s aaa Seafood, 7400 Lakeshore Dr., 504-555-5555 Deanie’s Seafood aa Seafood, 1713 Lake Ave., 504-831-4141 New Orleans Food & Spirits aaa Seafood, 210 Hammond Hwy., 504-828-2220 R&O’s aaa Seafood, 216 Old Hammond Hwy., 504-831-1248 Sala Small plates and great cocktails, 124 Lake Marina, 504-513-2670 Two Tony’s aaa Creole Italian, 8536 Pontchartrain Blvd., 504-282-0801 Wasabi aaa Japanese, 8550 Pontchartrain Blvd., 504-267-3263
August-September 2018 97
At the Table
Summer Specials THE WEEKS FOLLOWING the Fourth of July begin the worst time of the year for the hospitality business. Not only are visitors staying away from restaurants in droves, but the everyday local restaurant customers are out of town, on the beaches, gone fishing or back at home manning the barbecue pits. (Or, in the kind of heat and humidity we’ve had lately, just hanging at home.) But for people whose hobby is checking out interesting restaurants, this may be the best time of year to dine out. Restaurants that are inaccessible at other times have lots of space in their dining rooms for you. It’s a great time to establish a relationship with a waiter. That’s a pursuit that comes in handy the rest of the year. You might even become recognized as a regular. Finally, the foodstuffs of the summer are
98
Inside New Orleans
terrific. Crawfish are about finished, but the crop of crabs is rich. Creole tomatoes are also usually over for the year, but I continue to find many nice specimens—beautiful, meaty tomatoes, the kind you bend over a sink and eat from your hand— for some reason widely available and very tasty. Shrimp are superb. There has been a nice supply of pompano, swordfish and tuna. Astonishingly, oysters continue their streak of goodness. I might have to eat my words raw on the half-shell, of course, this late in the season, with such warm water in the Gulf. The oysters are not as briny as they are generous in size, but in cooked dishes they’re meaty and sophisticated. All of this converges in the COOLinary, an annual event spanning the month of August, organized by The New Orleans Tourism Marketing Corporation. Each year, a growing number of restaurants join in a panorama of special menus. Particularly in the French Quarter, the COOLinary offers New Orleans diners a month’s worth of special menus designed to attract more potential diners. Some of these are mind-boggling in terms of dish-for-the-dollar. The 2018 COOLinary menus and prices have not yet been set. If the minimum prices stay the same, $35 will bring forth a three-course dinner. That’s the bottom price; some of the restaurants ask for a bit more—and perhaps a lot more. However, even at the high end the value is attractive. It’s all enough to motivate eaters to see how many COOLinary menus they can indulge in. I’m beginning to hear requests from my radio listeners as to when the COOLinary will begin and which of the themes are the best this year. A guide to all the COOLinary dinners will be found here: coolinaryneworleans.com. As soon as the details appear, I will begin reviewing the dinners for nomenu.com. Enjoy as many COOLinaries as you can.
illustration: GRETCHEN ARMBRUSTER
by Tom Fitzmorris
