the FOODologist

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FOODologist £2.50

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APRIL 2010

THE MAGAZINE FOR LOVERS OF FINE FOOD AND DRINK EVERYWHERE

Star Anise

seafood is our

speciality

Marina Jaks: Sparkes Marina 38 Wittering Road Hayling Island PO11 9SR

02392 469459 www.marinajaks.co.uk

CONTENTS & CAST Editor/Publisher Simon Scutt simon@citylife-group.net mobile: 07717367977 Executive Chef

Adam Byatt

trinityrestaurant.co.uk

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FOODologist

Fashion /Beauty Editor Amanda Haley-Clarke Amanda@citylife-group.net

April 2010

Creative Director Thor Haley moimoiaah@mac.com mobile: 07876351245

04 Simon Scutt gives his view on “Michelin madness”.

Photography Stefan Venter Stefan@upix.uk.com mobile: 07795363723

08 Celebrity Chef – Adam Byatt’s tips for April food and a recipe.

Kitchen gardener Stuart Scott outsideroomcompany.co.uk 07955658830

14 Amanda Haley-Clarke gives us more to enjoy with star anise.

Illustrator Launa Apps-Woodland www.wallspacearts.com 02392 736693 Mixologist Jeff Firman jefffirman@yahoo.co.uk 07939021548 Art Editor Gillian Perrin gilly@citylife-group.net Edited by Editing Edge, Petersfield, Hampshire www.editingedge.co.uk

06 Amanda Haley-Clarke delights us with food based beauty tips.

12 Star Anise – its hidden secrets and a fragrant recipe.

16 Philip Portal – our resident wine expert on two perfect spring wines.

18 Kitchen Gardener – Stuart Scott tells us what is ripe for the picking.

20 French Markets – the pound versus the Euro.

24 Food history – Auguste Escoffier and why we scoff!

26 Beaujolais – we takes a look at the Beaujolais region of France.

32 Cocktails – Mixologist, Jeff Firman, creates Rhubarb cocktails.

34 Spring! – we look at seasonal produce.

40 Food special – are children’s eating habits changing?

Web Hosting Colin Baines – Wondernet www.wondernet.co.uk

42 Local Events – the Hampshire Food Festival.

Sales Director – Maurice Snowdon maurice@citylife-group.net mobile: 07803393984

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08

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Sales Manager – Victoria Hampton victoria@citylife-group.net mobile: 07843435385 Sales – John Dyer John@citylife-group.net mobile: 07896549551 Media Sales consultant Ross Marshall ross@matrixmediauk.co.uk Media Sales consultant Duncan Williams’s ozone.marketing@yahoo.com mobile: 07960829615

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Whereas every effort has been made by the publisher to ensure the content of this magazine is correct on going to print, the Foodologist and the individuals involved in the magazine’s production accept no responsibility for inaccuracies, omissions and opinions expressed in good faith within. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the editor.

The Foodologist, 1000 Lakeside, North harbour, Portsmouth PO6 3EZ. 02392 988938 Published by City & Coastal Media Ltd. Company number: 7108464

APRIL 2010 THE FOODOLOGIST 03

SIMON SAYS...

Simon Scutt introduces us to a new and exciting magazine

The

FOODologist I have spent a while considering what to write as a foreword for the first copy of The Foodologist. Ideas were bubbling away until I watched the second screening of a programme by the food critic William Sitwell, and it just stirred me to get up in the middle of the night and get cracking.

Michelin Madness The pursuit of a Michelin star for their restaurant – or the desperation to keep one once awarded – has turned some chefs into ‘demi gods,’ while leading others to contemplate ‘Harry Carry.’

The Michelin Guide, first published in the early Twentieth Century, still describes a two-star establishment as a place ‘worthy of a

04 THE FOODOLOGIST APRIL 2010

detour,’ and a three-star restaurant as a place ‘to consider making a special journey for.’ The Guide is run like a Secret Service organisation, giving its critics anonymity to hide behind.

And it can make or break an entire business.

Critics in the food world need no qualifications that I know of, and yet they do have immense power. I know of certain restaurants and individuals broken by their harsh and sometimes unfounded criticisms.

I have to admit that a review by AA Gill is often the first thing I want to experience on a Sunday morning: I feel part of an almost sadistic conspiracy as I pick up The Sunday Times to find out which new and ambitious

SIMON SAYS...

“Critics in the food world need no qualifications that I know of, and yet they do have immense power” set-up he has decided to send to the cemetery – or not, as the occasional case may be. It was also quite a laugh when a group of critics got together and nearly persuaded Michelin to give a star to a Little Chef because of Heston Blumenthal’s involvement.

If we compare how chefs have evolved as celebrities in the last ten years with the music business, we can see them as culinary DJs. They spend time collecting ingredients from far off and obscure producers, coveting some, and keeping others close to their chests.

They then assemble everything and create a spectacular performance – but in the process, some are exposed as egomaniacs who believe

they have a right to swear like troopers at those helping them with the arrangements, yet readily accept the accolades they garner as individuals.

The Foodologist will not attempt to review any restaurants, as we do not feel we are qualified to do so, and the same goes for wine (for which one has to become a Master to really have enough knowledge.) We will, however, introduce our readers to chefs we know, food producers and wine and drink makers both here and abroad, whose work and integrity have helped the nation start to become more sophisticated in its eating and drinking choices. n

APRIL 2010 THE FOODOLOGIST 05

PRODUCTS & BEAUTY

In my opinion Lavere produce wonderful quality creams in a unique range of natural organic cosmetics. Luxurious treatments to regenerate skin, packed with ingredients I would expect to find on my shopping list....

Olive Oil Mango Ginger Vanilla Limes Oranges Lemons Apricot Grapefruit Coconut Peaches They smell delicious and are I highly recommended them for this Spring.

Amanda Haley-Clarke

The new lavender & mint moisturizing essential oil Shampoo & Conditioner range from Paul Mitchell, enlivens the mind and restores balance.

Perfect for spring time glossy hair...

Hydrate and protect with the beautiful aromas!

06 THE FOODOLOGIST APRIL 2010

Photos courtesy PRSHOTS

LAVENDER AND MINT – PAUL MITCHELL SHAMPOO & CONDITIONER

Illustration: Launa Apps-Woodland

CELEBRITY CHEF

Adam Byatt Chef Patron of Trinity Adam Byatt, at the age of only thirty five, has already been Head Chef and proprietor of two very successful London restaurants and opened his third, Trinity in Clapham Old Town, in November 2006.

In 2008 Trinity was named ‘London Restaurant of the Year’ at the AA Hospitality Awards as well as ‘Best Local Restaurant’ at the Time Out Food and Drink Awards.

Apart from his successes at Trinity, Adam has appeared in numerous national and international style, food and drink and trade publications as well as participating in various important television and radio programs.

He is a regular on the top-rated BBC 1 08 THE FOODOLOGIST APRIL 2010

programme ‘Saturday Kitchen’, sealing his reputation as one of Britain’s leading chefs and culinary experts. Adam’s first book ‘How to Eat In’ will be published in April 2010.

Before opening Trinity, Adam was the Head Chef and proprietor of Thyme in Clapham.

Thyme was renowned amongst South Londoners and restaurant critics alike for its delicious and innovative menu and fine wines by the glass. The restaurant gained numerous awards including ‘Best New Restaurant’ at the Carlton London Restaurant awards in 2003, ‘Best Newcomer; at the Tatler Restaurant Awards, 2003 and was also the winner of the Remy Restaurant Awards in 2004.

CELEBRITY CHEF

Restaurant 4 The Polygon 路 Clapham Old Town 路 London SW4 0JG 020 7622 1199

Background Adam Byatt graduated from Bournemouth College of Further Education in 1994 and from 1990 for four years Adam studied with the Academie Culinaire de France (sponsored by Claridges Hotel). In 1996 Adam was in the National finals of the Young Chef of The Year and went on to be a Judge in 2003/2004.

Prior to opening Thyme, Adam worked as Sous Chef at The Square, the two Michelin starred restaurant in Mayfair, The Berkeley Hotel in Wilton Street London and also completed a five year apprenticeship scheme under John William at Claridges Hotel APRIL 2010 THE FOODOLOGIST 09

CELEBRITY CHEF

Adam Byatt tells The Foodologist what the people in the know are cooking in April...

Eat in APRIL 10 THE FOODOLOGIST APRIL 2010

April is always a bit of a battleground for ingredients.

Winter is still lurking but no longer welcome and rushing into the early spring crop will only deliver disappointment… my advice is to source great root vegetables and shellfish (crabs are a plentiful in April) and make the most of the tougher cuts of meat for the last of this years braising.

Getting stuck into rhubarb would be my choice for April.

Choose the “English Yorkshire Triangle Rhubarb” that’s not too big, bright pink in colour but needs ample sugar to bring it to life. Use lots of citrus zest to help balance the sweetness of your sugar and the sourness of the rhubarb when baking it in the oven (it only takes 15 minutes.)

The other great joy of April is “purple sprouting broccoli”, simply blanched in well salted boiling water with a grate or two of good aged parmesan this makes for a well received side dish or served with cured meats is an ample starter. Try where possible to buy organic with your greens as the difference in flavour is significant but the price can sometimes be comparative. Most good farmers markets will have the above for the duration of April, otherwise there is always good old Borough Market which continues to be a haven for all food lovers and long may it continue..!

Happy cooking Adam

CELEBRITY CHEF

... and, more importantly, how to cook it Recipe Poached English Rhubarb and Custard Makes 6 portions Ingredients: 500g rhubarb 160g sugar 160ml water 250 ml milk 250 g double cream 90 g sugar 120 g egg yolks 1 vanilla pod Preparation: l Cut the rhubarb lengthwise, arrange it neatly in a long deep tray and sprinkle with the sugar and water, cover it with aluminum foil l Place it in the oven at 100C for 10 minutes l Cool it down in the fridge l Strain the juice off

Recipe

Method: l boil cream and milk with vanilla pod l mix egg yolks and sugar in a separate bowl l pour a little of the boiled milk over the yolk mix l then pour it back on to the pan l cook it on the low flame until it coats the back of a spoon l pass it through a chinoas l cool it down To serve: l arrange poached rhubarb on top l give one layer of custard l repeat layers depending on the size of the glass l set in the fridge before serving it

The Foodologist is giving away a signed copy of Adam’s new book to the best reader contribution published in the May/June issue for our forthcoming readers page.

Watch out for Adam’s next appearance on BBC’s Saturday Kitchen, April 17.

APRIL 2010 THE FOODOLOGIST 11

STAR ANISE

STAR ANISE

a chef’s best kept Secret Chinese Star Anise is one of a professional chef’s best-kept secrets. Described as one of the most beautiful and fragrant spices of the world, it is the fruit of a shrub (Illicium verum) native to the Far East.

As well as being a prized cooking spice it is also the main ingredient of the prescription drug Tamiflu. The recent pandemic of swine flu saw the price of star anise soar and the Swiss manufacturer of the drug Roche is estimated to use up to 90% of the star anise produced worldwide.

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It is widely used in Chinese medicine and also in the liquor industry for the manufacture of drinks such as Galliano, Sambucca, Pastis and Absinthe. It is one of the fundamental ingredients of Chinese Five Spice and is also used prolifically in Chinese, Indonesian, Thai, Vietnamese and Indian cooking. Its use in modern European cooking is more recent, however. It is used in the cooking of both meat and fish to give a dish that special exotic “Je ne sais quoi.” It is also used in cooking desserts and baking cakes and biscuits.

STAR ANISE

“One of the most beautiful and fragrant spices of the world�

A quick recipe for Fillet of Brill steamed with Star Anise

Ingredients (Serves 2-4 People) 4 Brill (or other flatfish) fillets 150 ml White Wine/Water 4 Star Anise Half bulb Fennel roughly chopped Bunch of Chives Sauce Half bulb Fennel 1 Shallot finely chopped 1 Tbs Fennel leaves 1 knob Butter Salt and Ground Pepper Method Season the skin side of the brill fillets. Place each fillet on a piece of foil two and a half times the size of the fillet.

Divide the fennel equally between the

parcels. Pour a quarter of the wine/water mixture onto each fillet. Break the star anise into pieces and add to the fillets. Season with salt and pepper to taste and seal the foil into parcels. Place the parcels on a baking tray and cook in a pre-heated oven for 6 minutes.

Remove and reserve liquor from each parcel, re-sealing to keep the fillets warm.

Sweat the butter, shallots and fennel until softened.

Add reserved fish juices and reduce by half, adding a little more butter to thicken if necessary. Pass through a sieve.

Stir in the fennel leaf and half of the chopped chives. Serve fillets with new potatoes and pour sauce over them before serving.

Garnish with remaining chives. This recipe could be modified by serving fish on spinach or stir-fried vegetables. n APRIL 2010 THE FOODOLOGIST 13

BEAUTY STAR ANISE

STAR ANISE

Spring scents

Beauty Editor Amanda HaleyClarke reviews Jo Malone’s new range called Vanilla & Anise; including bath oil, body creme cologne and candles

Inspired by the floral landscape of Madagascar, capturing the fleeting moment that the rare vanilla orchid blossoms. The fragile cream and white flowers found on the vanilla vine are a precious discovery.

Only one or two appear in the morning and seemingly vanish by late afternoon.

Vanilla & Anise blends notes of bergamot, neroli and star anise to create a touch of spice sparkling above transparent layers of delicate vanilla orchid and frangipani. The warmth of vetiver, white amber and the subtlest hint of clove complete this unexpected, modern story of vanilla.

Fragrance Combining To fragrance combine, spray one Jo Malone Cologne, let it completely dry, and then spray a different Cologne on top to create your very own unique signature scent. Also try a body crème in one scent layered over a bath oil in another.

A Combination of Vanilla & Anise with Black Vetyver Café will add a rich intensity and smoky depths to this exotic sparkling scent.

Your senses and your home will be infused with this comforting scent.

The Vanilla & Anise Collection Shop online at www.jomalone.co.uk 14 THE FOODOLOGIST APRIL 2010

Image courtesy PR Shots. Model

wearing Amanda Wakeley £99.00. Available from Very.co.uk.

BEAUTY STAR ANISE

APRIL 2010 THE FOODOLOGIST 15

DRINK WINE

Philip Portal of Portal Dingwall and Norris, a family business based in Emsworth, West Sussex gives advice on what we should be quaffing this spring

Bodegas Estepa Oak Aged Reserve Merlot 2003

Special reader offer Get Estepa Merlot from Ivy Wines, Main Road, Hermitage, Emsworth, PO10 8AU for £6 - normally £10.

With torrential rain and no sight of the sun for the past few weeks it hard to think of spring, yet spring is approaching albeit a little damp, With spring comes the thought of lamb leaping through the fields and coupled inextricably that thought must be Merlot, Big round soft and Juicy Merlot one with enough tannin to cut through the fatty texture of lamb once its stopped leaping.

We have just the thing, it is from Patagonia (who must be world experts in sheep). The Merlot under scrutiny is from Bodegas Estepa in the Upper Valley of the Negro River, at 39.2º latitude south make it one of the most southerly wine producers in the world. The climate is dry and has a constant east wind blowing clean dry air from the Andes to the

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Atlantic which means very little chemical intervention is required as there are very few bacteria or fungi carried by dry wind.

The harvest is hand picked from vines that are about fifty years old. This gives a smaller quantity of juice than if the vines were younger, however there is much more concentration of flavour from these older vines. The wine is made in a modern winery and then left to settle for 12 months in French casks where the flavours integrate and soften prior to bottling, it is then aged in bottle prior to its release onto the market. The end product is a full flavoured well rounded wine with big fruit flavours on the nose, soft and smooth on the palate but all held together by a twist of tannin on the finish which helps to add length.

DRINK WINE

Domaine de Bellemare Picpoul de Pinet Appellation Coteaux du Languedoc Contrôlée Should you be preparing mussels which is another traditional spring meal, then we to have the ideal accompaniment for you in the form of Picpoul de Pinet from the Languedoc in Southern France.

This wine comes from one specific area bordering the Mediterranean at the bottom of the Gulf of Lion, the Picpoul de Pinet terroir extends around the Thau basin and comprises of 1300 hectares, which makes it the largest white wine region in the whole of the Languedoc. The wines from Domaine Bellmare come from the south of the appellation, grown on rather poor soil covered with lime concretions bordering Lake Thau.

The climate here is tempered by marine mists and breezes. This marine influence is extremely important as it plays the role of a heat accumulator that limits daily temperature swings, namely the temperature rising during the day and falling at night, which is the largest and deepest of the Languedoc lakes. Of an intense blue, this “inland sea” extends over 20 km from Balaruc to Marseillan, passing through Mèze and Sète. A key site for the cultivation of oysters and mussels.

Piquepoul is an old Languedoc grape variety that has been found on the banks of Lake Thau since early antiquity; this lateripening grape variety, planted in a dry climate, takes advantage of the humidity of the late season to complete its maturation. without this climatic advantage it would be much more acid and not have the enormous complexity of flavour that it acquires by ripening slowly.

This wine is racy and intense with great minerality on the palate. It has a long and clean finish without being sharp, it is reminiscent of good quality Chablis or Sancerre in its structure but with flavours that are much more complex. Retails at £7.99. n APRIL 2010 THE FOODOLOGIST 17

KITCHEN GARDENER

The Kitchen Gardener Stuart Scott is The Foodologist’s very own ‘Kitchen Gardener’. In each edition he will be giving readers his advice, and recommending what to grow in your kitchen garden, when and how. It doesn’t matter if you live in a house with acres of grounds or a small apartment because in his day job Stuart specialises in creating ‘outside spaces’ both beautiful and, in the case of a kitchen garden, practical. outsideroomcompany.co.uk

Leek - Allium Ampeloprasum Porrum Leeks are this month’s featured vegetable.

With their lovely long leaves and bulb-like end, leeks date back to 4000BC. Wales instantly springs to mind when leeks are mentioned, but they are also extremely popular in both European and Asian cuisine.

Sweeter than its relatives, garlic and onions, the leek is often served as a side dish.

Very nutritious and rich in vitamin A, the leek is far easier to grow than the onion because they are able to grow in most soil conditions as long as the soil is not too wet for long periods of time. They are very tough and can remain in the ground throughout the cold winter months. You can sow early under glass and have leeks ready for harvesting in the autumn, but it is really during the winter and early spring that they are most appreciated.

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Planting Herbs for the Tub or Garden For many lacking the time, space, energy, skill, or patience, ordering potted herbs is simpler than germinating your own herb seeds.

Many popular herbs are now available from your local supermarket. Once you have chosen which herbs to grow, and assuming the recent cold weather has become a thing of the past, follow these simple guidelines.

Tender seedlings grown indoors need to be acclimatised to the direct sun, wind, and changing temperature. For most herbs this process should be performed a few days before planting in the garden.

When the weather is warm and settled, set your seedlings outdoors in a shady and sheltered location. Gradually increase the time outdoors until seedlings spend a half

KITCHEN GARDENER

day, then a full 24 hours outside in the shade.

Then, keeping the seedlings well watered and protected from winds, move them to a sunny spot. As before, begin with just a few hours of direct sun and increase to a half day, then several full days in the sun before transplanting seedlings to their permanent garden position.

Dig a hole in your herb garden about twice as large as the pot. Fill the hole with water and let it soak in. Carefully remove the plants from their seed flats or pots, ensuring the soil is neither too moist nor too dry. Pick the plants up very gently by their stems, trying to keep the soil around the roots as intact as possible.

Set each plant in the prepared hole up to its first true leaves and press the soil firmly around it. Water it well to get rid of air pockets and assure good root-to-earth contact. n

Herb of the Month Thyme – Thymus Vulgaris Thyme is widely cultivated for its strong flavour, which it retains more successfully than most herbs when dried. Usually planted in the spring, it is best grown in a hot, sunny location with well-drained soil, although the plants can take deep freezes and are sometimes found growing wild on mountain highlands. It can be propagated by seed, cuttings, or by dividing rooted sections of the plant. It tolerates drought well, and is a perennial – it grows every year.

APRIL 2010 THE FOODOLOGIST 19

FRENCH MARKETS

French markets –

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FRENCH MARKETS

the Pound versus the Euro

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Last year was definitely the best year for restaurants along the South Coast of England since 2006. Despite the fact that we found ourselves amidst the worst recession to affect the country for decades, people came to the coast in droves.

APRIL 2010 THE FOODOLOGIST 21

FRENCH MARKETS

“It seems ridiculous, even bonkers, to think of the possibility of us taking provisions of food and wine with us on our travels to France.”

Even the weather did little to deter the visitors. It would seem the most significant reason for this turn-around was the weakness of the pound against the euro. The signs were beginning to emerge at the end of the ski season of 2009, with punters reporting that they had been charged astronomical prices in bars and restaurants – some stating that they had paid the equivalent of £8 for a pint of Guinness. Great news for restaurateurs and bar owners but not so for the many people who have second houses on the continent, especially in France.

Community support

One of the great attractions when visiting France is the variety of magnificent markets found in many of the small towns across the country, where the fantastic choice of quality produce on display has to be seen to be believed. Just as at home in the UK, the major supermarkets compete ferociously with the independent sellers.

However, whilst here in the UK the

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supermarkets have succeeded in closing down many of the corner shops, and markets are virtually a thing of the past, the French markets are supported by the local townspeople and villagers, helping them to thrive and preserving them as a focal point of community life.

Thirty percent devaluation

The pound and the euro have almost reached parity in the last few months. That’s neither good news for people who holiday abroad, nor for restaurants here which sell fine wines and champagnes. For certain wines, costs have been pushed up because of poor grape harvests (so we are told) and the high value of the euro. This is especially so with the wines of the Loire (Sancerre, Pouilly Fume, and Muscadet).

Bargains that were to be had at the local markets in France have been similarly affected, including ciders from local producers.

These are now comparable in price with a decent bottle of wine a couple of years ago.

FRENCH MARKETS

Photographs taken of the market in Aix en Othe in the Champagne region show a shellfish stall with freshly cooked crayfish and crab selling at 60 euros and nearly 17 euros respectively per kilo.

It looks like we’ll be taking coal to Newcastle on our travels in the future.

It seems ridiculous, even bonkers, to think of the possibility of us taking provisions of food and wine with us on our travels to France. I am afraid, however, that this is a reality, unless you have very deep pockets and large wallets, or are lucky enough not have to worry about costs.

Making a quick comparison between supermarkets home and away, a bottle of Veuve Clicquot champagne at Carrefour costs 30.15 euros, and at Tesco is £25 per bottle.

Chablis Carrefour costs 8.50 euros from the cheapest producer, and only £4.95 from Morrison’s. A considerable saving in the UK – and one that could soon see us smuggling wine across the channel in the opposite direction for a change. n

APRIL 2010 THE FOODOLOGIST 23

FOOD HISTORY

Scoff a little bit of history Simon Scutt digs deep into culinary history and shares his findings with the Foodologist. Do you have an interesting tale to tell? Send us your story for the next issue of the Foodologist.

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The word ‘scoff’ is derived from the name of a man who is generally credited with the revolutionary change in the methods of cookery found in the world’s best restaurants during the first few decades of the 20th Century. Auguste Escoffier (1846-1935) was referred to by the French press as “roi de cuisiniers et cuisinier des rois” (“king of chefs and chef of kings”) and awarded the highest decoration in France, the cross of the Legion d’Honneur, for his work promoting French cuisine. He was also the creator of the Brigade de Cuisine system, which involved each separate section of the kitchen being run by a Chef de Partie.

During his work in the Hotel National in Lucerne he met Cesar Ritz and formed a business partnership that soon transferred to England and the new Savoy in London, where they became an immediate success catering to the aristocracy. They were both dismissed

FOOD HISTORY

Auguste Escoffier and Cesar Ritz were both dismissed from the Savoy for irregularities that involved the taking of gifts from suppliers, the mysterious disappearance of a substantial amount of alcohol to the value of £3,500. from the Savoy for irregularities that involved the taking of gifts from suppliers, the mysterious disappearance of a substantial amount of alcohol to the value of £3500. To put that into perspective a terraced house cost around £600 at the time.

The two went on to develop the RitzCarlton hotels, and it was at the Carlton that my maternal grandfather, Abraham Edgar, became one of the Chefs de Partie in the Pastry section, working with the great man up until his departure in 1920. Incidentally, I have discovered through further research that one of the young kitchen porters who was promoted into the Pastry section at that time would later become the leading political figure and President of Vietnam, Ho Chi Minh.

It was during my grandfather’s time at the Carlton that he met my grandmother, who was a cook to the family of Anthony Eden (later Prime Minister). She had been in

service to the Eden family for some time and regularly travelled between Windlestone Hall in Durham and their London residence. Both of my grandparents were from Durham, which was probably a significant reason why they became close in London.

I have my grandmother’s recipe book from the time before she married, which bears the warning “This book belongs to Barbara Shaw and is for her eyes only,” on the inside cover - she was obviously very protective of its contents. I also have a book of recipes and ingredients that belonged to my grandfather.

This is much more difficult to use because he often neglected to include a method and many of the recipes include ingredients for large quantities. However, I do intend to take some recipes from each of these ‘secret books’ and reveal them for the first time to the readers of The Foodologist. I am sure that they would give me their blessing were they still here.

APRIL 2010 THE FOODOLOGIST 25

DRINK WINE

The Crus of

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DRINK WINE

Beaujolais The grape variety is Gamay and the ten Beaujolais Cru wines are Brouilly, Côte de Brouilly, Chenas, Chiroubles, Fleurie, Julienas, Morgon, Moulin à Vent, Saint-Amour and Régnié.

The difference in quality from the more basic Beaujolais is unmistakable and these ten Crus, although far less expensive, can approach the standard of drinking of their near cousins, the Pinot Noirs of Burgundy.

The harvesting of the Beaujolais Crus is done exclusively by hand by around 50,000 grape-pickers working in the 3,000 or so vineyards that cover an area of around 19,000 hectares.

The Crus can be kept for up to ten years if made traditionally and from a good vintage, but around three years is a safe recommendation. They are exceptional

when accompanying dishes such as Chicken Chasseur, any red meats, or cheeses such as Brie.

The wines offer a good aroma and palate and are rich and complex. Whilst the prices for these wines are on the up if purchased in the UK, there are still bargains to be had when traveling to France, where they are still available from around 4-6 euros in supermarkets.

Chantal and Eric Coudert-Appert Chantal (born in 1967) passed a BTS (HND) in vines and wine at the Beaune school of wine before she took over from her father Michel and started wine making in 1991. Eric (born in 1964) used to be a carpenter but completed adult training at the Macon-Davayé wine school in 1997 before he returned to the estate on the retirement of his father-in-law.

Both of their families come from a vine growing and winemaking background and the estate has belonged to the Appert family for over a century.

They do all the work themselves, following the wine from the vines to the glass.

The work they carry out throughout the year includes all the work on the land as well as crafting the wine itself. The passion they have for their chosen profession finds its roots in seeing their product evolve stage by stage.

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The Beaujolais region stretches between Maconnais in the north, and Lyon in the south.

APRIL 2010 THE FOODOLOGIST 27

DRINK WINE

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Over the years they have grown to know their plots of land and care for their needs as you would a loved one, although they never forget that Mother Nature always has the last word.

Harvesting This is the culmination of our year’s work in the vines, making it both decisive and thrilling. We have to adapt to the coming year and no two years are ever alike in our profession. Nature is the only decision maker in this business. If it rains a few weeks before the harvest, as it did in 2004, we have to keep a very careful watch for rot; if it’s very hot, like in 2003, we have to bring the harvest date forward to maintain the balance between alcohol and acidity levels.

Picking lasts around a week, and during

t

(described by Mme Coudert –Appert)

The harvesters sit down together to relax, eat and drink after a hard days work. t

APRIL 2010 THE FOODOLOGIST 29

DRINK WINE

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this time we give board and lodging to our pickers. The harvest is done by hand, following Beaujolais regulations. We employ around 40 people with Eric managing the team. On the first day we take the time to show each person how to sort the grapes on the vine, although we are lucky to have a number of regulars who know the work and pass the knowledge on to the newcomers.

We require that every single desiccated or rotten berry be discarded, preferably at the picking stage, to completely prevent contamination. This is time-consuming work, but for a difficult vintage it could save the harvest.

A few years ago we might have wanted to use a harvesting machine like our colleagues in other French winemaking regions. But now, with hindsight and after a few difficult years in which rigorous sorting saved the harvest, we are pleased that we kept to the rules and we wouldn’t change it for anything. Ours are “made to measure wines” and they’re staying that way! n

“Ours are ‘made to measure wines’ and they’re staying that way!”

30 THE FOODOLOGIST APRIL 2010

BEAUJOLAIS HISTORY Beaujolais winemakers are very proud of their region, which is closely entwined with the history of vine growing. The chapels at the top of the hills of Brouilly and Fleurie were built there to appeal to the Virgin Mary for her help fighting the scourge of powdery mildew, and the busts set on the squares of Chiroubles and Romanèche-Thorins are to pay homage to two “saviours of the vine,” Victor Pulliat in Chiroubles and Benoît Raclet in RomanècheThorins. Respectively, these viticulturists advocated the use of grafting in the fight against the phylloxera aphid and found a way to combat the pyralid grub: “scalding.”

There is winemaking all over the world, but for local people the Beaujolais region remains central to its history, a history paved with their predecessors’ blood, sweat and tears. Worldwide viticulture has moved forward thanks to their work and Beaujolais people feel very proud of them -– and honour bound to continue and spread the work they started.

The COUDERT-APPERT family have a holiday cottage available at very favourable rates.

For further information visit www.coudert-appert.fr

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DRINK MIXOLOGIST

Rhubarb cocktails

With the prospect of evening sunlight, and spring looking like it might actually happen, its time to dust off the cocktail shaker and try these simple ‘one spirit’ recipes, using beautiful, seasonal rhubarb.

Jeff Firman, our resident mixologist creates three refreshing cocktails for Spring...

Rhubarb juice Chop rhubarb into thumb size chunks, place in a pan and cover with water (don’t add any sugar at this stage, the juice will be sweetened later). Bring to the boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook for 5 minutes, remove from the heat and allow this mixture to cool. Next pass the cooled liquor through a sieve or colander lined with a muslin (the leftover pulp can be sweetened and served with ice cream). Now sweeten the pink rhubarb juice to taste with simple syrup (equal quantities of boiling hot water and sugar stirred together until dissolved, allow this mixture to cool fully before using). The rhubarb juice will be delicious on its own, can be topped with lemonade or ginger beer (for a refreshing non alcoholic pick me up), or you could use it in one of the following: 32 THE FOODOLOGIST APRIL 2010

Rhubarb fizz 2 shots Gin 1 shot fresh orange juice 3 shots rhubarb juice 1/2 shot lime juice 1/4 shot simple syrup champagne/soda Shake the gin, orange juice, rhubarb juice, lime juice and syrup together in a shaker with ice.

Strain into a long ice filled glass and top with champagne or soda, garnish with a wedge of lime and sprig of mint.

This will also work by substituting the gin and orange juice with vodka and pressed apple juice.

Rhubarb daiquiri 2 shots light rum 3 shots rhubarb juice 3 or 4 strawberries 1/2 shot lime juice 1/4 shot simple syrup Put all of the ingredients into a blender with a handful of ice and blend until smooth, serve it long with a straw. You could use gold or dark rum, and replace the strawberries with some of the leftover rhubarb pulp (from the juice recipe) and a grate of fresh ginger for a spicy alternative.

DRINK MIXOLOGIST

APRIL 2010 THE FOODOLOGIST 33

SPRING SELECTION

34 THE FOODOLOGIST APRIL 2010

SPRING SELECTION

Spring What is in season during early spring in the South? Easter Sunday falls on April 4th this year. This is an important date in everyone’s calendar, and whether you are going out to eat or dining at home, it is a great time to choose new seasonal produce and taste the joy of spring.

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“It is a great time to choose new seasonal produce and taste the joy of spring. ”

APRIL 2010 THE FOODOLOGIST 36

SPRING SELECTION

There is an opportunity to find purple sprouting broccoli growing wild in certain areas of the coast, but as an old (chef) friend once said to me, “If I told you where I would have to kill you.”

Asparagus A great choice of vegetable, its season’s start coincides with St George’s Day on the 23rd April and lasts for around eight weeks. It can be expensive in the first week or so, but the price drops as it becomes more abundant. Serve simply with butter or a hollandaise sauce.

Jersey Royals The first crop of these wonders of the gastronomic world is available from as early as February if grown indoors but they fetch a very high price up until the outdoor season kicks in around the end of March. They are delicious cooked with mint (a new-season herb) and served with butter and a little parsley alongside almost any dish, although they are the perfect accompaniment for spring lamb.

Purple Sprouting Broccoli This particularly healthy vegetable is at its best throughout March and April. The purple variety is excellent, and is in its prime when its spears are tightly packed. It should be lightly cooked and served ‘al dente.’ There is an opportunity to find it growing wild in certain areas of the coast, but as an old (chef) friend once said to me, “If I told you where I would have to kill you.” If you are lucky enough to find it growing wild, please take it sparingly, be sure to wash it well in case of dogs or pests, and make sure you are not breaking any local byelaws.

Spring Lamb Spring Hampshire Downs lamb is a product that is most sought after and the breed has existed for many years. It is known for its succulence and flavour and can be obtained from a few reputable specialist butchers or, more recently, directly from the farmers themselves. A medium rare rack of spring lamb served with asparagus, broccoli, and Jersey Royals is the perfect dinner for Easter Sunday or indeed St George’s Day. Rhubarb Forced Rhubarb is available from January but arrives naturally in the garden in March. Most people think of it as a fruit but it is actually botanically a vegetable, and a close relative to the herb sorrel. Served as a tangy sorbet, or in a crumble with homemade custard and perhaps an indulgent splash of Jersey double cream, it will leave the taste of spring with you until early summer! n

36 THE FOODOLOGIST APRIL 2010

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SPRING RECIPE

Roast Turbot & new potatoes

Red Mullet Escabèche a la Grècque salad Ingredients (serves 4) 500 g Red Mullet Fillets (Ask your fishmonger to fillet) 2 Tablespoons Olive Oil 1 Bulb Fennel 2 Carrots 1 Onion 1 Shallot Sea Salt Fennel Seeds (pinch) Coriander Seeds (pinch) Star Anise (pinch) Saffron (pinch) 25 ml White Wine Vinegar White Wine (half glass) 1 cup Water Method Sprinkle the red mullet with a couple of pinches of sea salt and set aside. Use a mandolin to evenly slice the vegetables and set aside. Take a medium saucepan and heat the olive oil. Add the sliced vegetables with two or three pinches of salt. Add the fennel seeds, coriander seeds, star anise and saffron. Add the white wine vinegar and after the white wine burns off, add the cup of water. Bring to the boil for a minute.

Pour the sauce over the fish pieces and leave to cool. When cool, put in the fridge overnight. The combination of the heat and the acidity of the liquor and vegetables will cook the fish.

Serving Suggestion Put some of the sliced vegetables on a side plate and place a couple of pieces of fish on top of them. Pour on a little of the liquor and, if you are experimental, circle the dish with some aioli with a sweeping movement of the wrist. Serve with bread, olives, and perhaps tapenade.

38 THE FOODOLOGIST APRIL 2010

Ingredients (serves 4) 1.5kg Whole Turbot (Ask the fishmonger to remove the head and fins) 2 Tablespoons Olive Oil Baking tray covered in Plain Flour Sea Salt Black Pepper 50g Butter 2 Shallots Tarragon (bunch) Dill (bunch) Basil (bunch) Lemon Grass (stick) White Wine (2 glasses) 1 cup Water Small pot fresh Single Cream Lemon Half kg New Potatoes (pre cooked) Method Sprinkle the turbot with a few of pinches of sea salt on the dark side and then place in the seasoned flour on the white side. Use a mandolin to thinly slice the shallots and set aside. Take a large frying pan with a cover and heat the oil. Place the turbot white side down in the frying pan for 4 minutes, then add most of the butter.

Add the shallots, the herbs and the chopped stick of lemon grass, allowing the side to caramelise and brown. Add a glass of white wine, turn the fish over and cook the other side for 4 minutes before adding the other glass of wine.

Place the lid over the pan and heat in a medium hot oven for another 10-15 minutes.

Remove and allow the fish to rest, spooning a little of the juices over it from time to time. In a small saucepan heat the cooked new potatoes with the rest of the butter and a little water.

Season with salt and black pepper.

Serving Suggestion Place the turbot on a serving plate white side up and peel away the skin to leave the flesh exposed. Remove and reserve the fin muscles to make the sauce. Put the fin muscles into a small pan with the juices from the cooked fish and any chopped herbs that are left. Over a low heat, add a little cream and squeeze half a lemon into the mixture. Pour the majority over the plated turbot and reserve any remaining in a gravy boat. Surround with the buttered potatoes and serve from the centre of the table.

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FOOD SPECIAL

Junk Food?

I don’t think so

In light of Jamie Oliver’s recent campaign against schools serving junk food, are kids’ eating habits changing?

40 THE FOODOLOGIST APRIL 2010

Holly Anne, eleven, eating oysters.

the alternative option with a vengeance and some sophistication. Nothing warms the ‘cockles’ of my heart more than watching a child devour a Fruits de Mer along with Mum and Dad. The other reality is that new mums are simply not offering their children the unhealthy option. My eldest daughter and many of her friends are certainly having none of it. It’s Brussels sprouts, cauliflower cheese, lamb stew and dumplings. And guess what?

The little ones are wolfing it down because they have never been fed the addictive alternatives. Many junk foods are laden with salts and artificial flavourings that older kids find hard to give up, having to ‘withdraw’ from the addictive substance.

I don’t think anyone is saying you should never give your child a High Street burger or piece of southern fried chicken.

Just make it the occasional treat.

And what of the magnificent Jamie Oliver?

Sir Jamie? Lord Jamie? Perhaps even St Jamie?

I am sure many mums will probably agree to one of those titles!

Holly Anne, eleven, eating oysters

Photography © Chris Terry 2010

Yes, they are, it’s official! Jamie Oliver, the pioneer of healthy eating for kids, has achieved what many believed was impossible.

The revolution was televised; and now that the dust has settled the results are there for all to see.

As a restaurateur, I have noticed a significant trend of kids being more experimental with their choices. A couple of years ago we were often asked if we sold chicken nuggets or fish fingers. We didn’t, of course, but the Chefs made their own, healthier, versions. Now kids are trying more of what their parents are eating and we are often asked for smaller portions of items on the menu - consequently we don’t have a ‘kids’ menu’ as such anymore.

So why the change, and why the time lapse? Immediately after the launch of the experiment there was an amount of ridicule and, to some degree, failure. Children stopped eating school dinners, some mums were up in arms and were reported to be passing unhealthy helpings of their kids’ usual lunches through the school fences at lunchtimes.

Then things did begin to change. I think that now the whole subject of healthy eating has taken hold of the nation and, whilst they were slow to start, many kids have embraced

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LOCAL EVENTS

Hampshire Local food-lovers will want to get a copy of this year’s Hampshire Food Festival (1st – 31st July) programme, which is now available and packed with events across the county showcasing local food and drink.

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LOCAL EVENTS

Food Festival Festival events include tractor-trailer tours and walks around orchards, vineyards and dairy, livestock, vegetable, garlic and lavender farms; open days to see how ice-cream, cheese, beer and apple juice is made; workshops for adults and children in bee-keeping, cookery, breadmaking, chocolate-making and growingyour-own fruit and veg; country shows and Hampshire Farmers’ Markets; cookery demonstrations and plenty of opportunities to enjoy gourmet lunches, cream teas and dinners using seasonal Hampshire produce.

‘Celebrity chefs‘ taking part include James Martin at Chewton Glen, Alex Aitken at Lime Wood, Atul Kochhar at Vatika, Raymond Blanc at Gunwharf Quays, Ed Baines and John Burton-Race at Basingstoke’s Festival Place as well as vegetarian food writer Rose Elliot at Winchester Discovery Centre and Winchester Writer’s Conference.

To mark the Festival’s 10th anniversary, generous messages of support for The Hampshire Food Festival have been given by numerous top chefs who have been involved in the past 10 years of the Festival, including James Martin, Gordon Ramsay, Atul Kochhar, Mark Hix, Sophie Grigson, Alex Aitken, Raymond Blanc, Phil Vickery as well as conservationist Chris Packham.

Raymond Blanc said: “As someone who applauds any effort to get people to

support local food producers, I am very, very pleased that The Hampshire Food Festival is celebrating its 10th anniversary....I congratulate Hampshire Fare on their ten years of telling the world about the excellence of the produce of the county.”

James Martin said: “I have lived and worked in Hampshire for the past 16 years and I am passionate about the amazing diverse produce the county has to offer. From great fish to amazing meats and plentiful amounts of fresh salads and vegetables, there is everything here for the keen foodie. But it’s the likes of food festivals and markets that enable you to taste all the things that are grown on your door step that you probably weren’t aware of.

So go see it, embrace it, taste it and you never know what you might find, one thing’s for sure, if its great food you’re after then join in the Festival.”

Alex Aitken said: “The county of Hampshire is a rich and diverse larder.

Ranging from fantastic farmers and markets, small artisan food producers to the wild ancient New Forest National Park. Not forgetting two great rivers and a huge coastline for fish and shellfish. It is no surprise that as a self taught chef I have only ever cooked in Hampshire, there is no reason to go further afield”.

James Martin

Alex Aitken APRIL 2010 THE FOODOLOGIST 43