IOL Fashion - July - September 2022 - A Celebration of Women

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IOL

FASHION

JULY- SEPTEMBER ISSUE

A Celebration of Women


“In order to be irreplaceable one must always be different.” - Coco Chanel


Content

IFW business owner Nkano Senyolo wants to nurture SA fashion designers Body-Konfident owner Kim-Lee Ricketts on empowering women through inclusive fashion What women really want in fashion Bonnie Mbuli’s new jewellery collection inspired by her mental health journey Emma Thompson’s full-frontal scene is a wake-up call for all women struggling with body image Meet Miss International South Africa - She’s a beauty queen, surgeon and philanthropist Refilwe Modiselle continues to shine the spotlight on albinism Makhadzi launches her own skincare range

IOL

CONTACT US PUBLISHER Vasantha Angamuthu vasantha@africannewsagency.com ACTING EXECUTIVE LIFESTYLE EDITOR Debashine Thangevelo debashine.thangevelo@inl.co.za EDITOR Geraldine Cupido geraldine.cupido@inl.co.za DESIGN Dimpho Mokhoanatsi dimpho.mokhoanatsi@inl.co.za PRODUCTION EDITOR Renata Ford renata.ford@inl.co.za BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Keshni Odayan keshni.odayan@iol.co.za SALES Charl Reineke charl.reineke@iol.co.za ENQUIRIES info@anapublishing.com

A note from the editor AS A mom of two incredible daughters, I take it upon myself to constantly remind them of the importance and the power of what it is to be a woman. Strong-willed, bright and curious about the world, they already have big dreams. A vision of how they want their lives to be and how they want to contribute to the world. My eldest believes that our planet is in need of saving and wants to do her part in keeping it alive while her baby sister wants to escape it all and explore other planets. The one has “I want to be a robotics engineer” on her list of things she wants to be one day, while the other wants to be a botanist and marine biologist. These are all careers I didn’t even know existed when I was growing up. Never mind the fact that these are things, women can do! Regardless of what they end up doing one day, I know that they will do it their way. Women are no longer quietly labouring in the shadows of men. They are at the forefront of making bold moves. And doing it in style. While there was a time when men dominated the fashion industry, women such as Coco Chanel, Vivienne Westwood and Sarah Burton have left a lasting impression on what fashion is today. From the runway to production, women are becoming an intricate part of the fashion world not only in what we wear but in how we think about fashion and the impact it has on society. In this month’s IOL Fashion magazine, A Celebration of Women, we chat to women who are making waves in the industry. From businesswoman Nkano Senyolo’s desire to see SA designers flourish internationally to actress Bonnie Mbuli’s incredible mental health journey, each woman featured has made an impact on lives through their passion for fashion.

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Nuturing SA designers

GERRY CUPIDO SOUTH African fashion designers have proven time again that they belong at international fashion events. At the beginning of this year, East London-born Lukhanyo Mdingi showcased his Africaninspired collection, Bodyland, at the Autumn/Winter 2022 collection at Paris Fashion Week. Thebe Magugu, winner of the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers, unveiled his collection, Banyoloyi A Bosigo, at Paris Fashion Week in 2021. It’s undeniable that there’s an abundance of creative talent in our country. The challenge, however, is to get the world to see more of it. Nkano Senyolo, the founder of IFW Business, is determined to do just that. IFW Business is a company which Nkano Senyolo. assists upcoming and registered South African fashion designers by educating them on how to build their businesses. Senyolo, a fashion design graduate from the faculty of Art Design and Architecture at the University of Johannesburg who has more than 11 years of experience in the fashion industry, noticed that there was an imbalance in the industry in that African fashion trends was behind, there were a lot of creative designers but not enough exposure, and a lot of talented individuals but most of them lacked business acumen, and the fashion industry in South Africa was underrated. She founded IFW Business and IFW Projects, an NGO, in 2019. Her company objectives include connecting designers with garment construction manufacturers, assisting designers in building a sustainable online business that

NGUNI Brand.


will attract more traffic for consumers and buyers, securing and organising overseas fashion show attendance and exhibitions as well as building outstanding fashion portfolios for the designer. The company is currently managing a group of 10 South African fashion designers, and their collections and working on expanding its portfolio successively to eventually become the go-to brand for creative individuals or fashion designers that seek to grow their business brand, access resources and have more business opportunities, nationally and internationally. After a successful debut in Amsterdam, Netherlands, in March where they showcased two talented South African fashion designers, Sandi Mazibuko and House of Fabrosanz, they were offered the opportunity to take part in other international fashion shows. In August the company will be taking two local designers to Turkey to showcase their work at the Cappadocia Fashion Week. Cappadocia Fashion Week is an annual event organised by Africa Fashion Week Europe (AFWEU) to give designers a platform to showcase their garments. The two South African brands that will be showcasing at the Cappadocia Fashion Week are Nguni Brand and House of Fabrosanz. Nguni Brand is a Durban label co-founded by Rapule Mathonsi (creative director), Nandi Mtsokoba (production director) and Wendy Magafela (sales director). It is inspired by the Nguni culture. They draw most of their inspiration from Zulu, Xhosa, Swati, and Ndebele culture and incorporate a bit from the Sotho culture to create unique patterns. “We want people all over the world to be exposed to the beauty of our cultures. We are a young, traditional and vibrant brand,” says Mathonsi. Fabrosanz (FRS) was founded in 2011 by designer Sandisiwe Mazibuko. Fabrosanz stands for Fabulous Royalty Sanz with Sanz being a shortened version for Sandisiwe’s name. The brand name describes how Sandi

FABROSANZ.

PICTURE: RENE EWALS

would like to feel when wearing her garments: fabulous and royal. FRS makes clothes for women and men with its own culturally-inspired prints, the Nguni print being the most successful as it is bought globally. It is important for Fabrosanz to translate the Zulu culture into wearable garments as it represents where she comes from. In celebration of being in the industry for 10 years, the brand took inspiration from the previous collections and developed the Venda, Tsonga and Sepedi-inspired prints – launched in 2021. “Our collection offerings are inspired by fabrics, colours, and motifs depicted on the traditional attire of these cultures,” says Mazibuko. IFW Business plans to get other local designers to shows such as Nairobi Fashion Week in November and Istanbul Fashion Week in December.


KIM-Lee Ricketts owner of Body-Konfident.

INCLUSIVE FASHION

and empowering wom THERE’S nothing more fierce than a confident woman. When a woman feels confident she feels she can do just about anything. Industrial psychologist Kim-Lee Ricketts has created a fashion range to help boost any woman’s confidence. Her label Body-Konfident is an inclusive range that allows women to feel empowered. What inspired you to create Body-Konfident? As a woman, I have always been passionate about creating spaces where other women feel safe and comfortable to be their true and authentic selves. As an industrial psychologist and mentor to young girls and women, I wanted to create a movement within fashion by creating an inclusive range that encourages us all to claim our space and show up as our best selves. To not seek external validation, but instead, be confident enough to draw from our own internal strength while celebrating the diversity of who we are. Body-Konfident is a love letter to

GERRY CUPIDO myself, and every other woman out there. To let them know that when we truly love every inch of who we are. How did you get your business off the ground? I absolutely love fashion as I have always recognised that it can be a powerful tool, but being a curvy girl I struggled to find garments that make me feel comfortable with my shape. I also lead a very busy life and always find myself jumping between my home, professional, and social commitments. I soon realised that I lacked a wardrobe that had garments that were multipurpose and interchangeable. After conducting research, I discovered that I was not the only person experiencing this. I started collaborating with other local female-owned clothing manufacturers, workshopping various patterns, fabrications, and designs until I found the right collection that truly represented women and where they are. I started showcasing my Body-

Konfident ran exhibitions an to and taking and making su customers kne they were bein heard and tha their needs are being met. Through the power of collaboration, women supporting wo and so much l and support fr amazing peop have followed journey, it has become the tru it is today.

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vision come to life. My husband and I are the founders and developers of my brand, and I work with local manufacturers who specialise in various elements. The beauty of my brand is that my team also includes all my followers and supporters. As much as I create beautiful clothes, the source of inspiration and direction comes from the many stories I come into contact with on a daily basis. What type of woman is your garments are for? Upon designing my range, I really wanted to take women back to basics. I chose clean lines, fabrics that do not crease easily, and garments that worked together as one look and also separately to enhance any existing wardrobe of any shape and size. The range is for anyone looking for a fresh start and perspective on who they are, and who they can be. How do women feel wearing your garments? The response has been so overwhelming as my brand makes its way into the wardrobes of so many women, locally and internationally. My intention was not only to create garments, but to also create a range that deconstructs falsities about body image and liberates women into becoming the best version of

themselves. In fact, I went completely left field in my approach to design, where the clothes are simplistic and sophisticated, with a quiet confidence that allows the individual wearing it to shine. The true hero of this range is the woman wearing it. What advice do you have for women who want to start their own business? Never feel that you have to operate within silos, but instead, break barriers and create opportunities for collaboration. Do not limit yourself, even though you may feel that your ideas do not meet the status quo, be confident in your ideas and know that when you are led by passion, you will always achieve greater heights. Last but not least, do not be discouraged by set-backs. Every experience will build resilience as you navigate your business. Always welcome opportunities to grow and learn lessons, even if they are harsh. I am learning that the journey is way more important than the actual destination. So cherish those you meet along the way, never allow people to push you into acting out of your own character and always extend a helping hand and be the life-changing opportunity for the next aspiring entrepreneur. What future plans do you have for the brand? My dream is to see BodyKonfident expand its range, broadening our offering in fashion spaces, and using garments as a vehicle to change how women see themselves. I would also like to see my brand activate and unlock other avenues for women within education, skills development, and corporate engagement, meeting needs outside of the wardrobe and into communities.


What women really want GERRY CUPIDO FASHION is ever-changing, and most of us like to have a finger on the pulse of what’s trending. You might not be a slave to trends, but it’s nice to add a few hot pieces to your wardrobe just to give it a bit of an upgrade. However, having a solid foundation of good wardrobe basics is essential so that no matter what comes in and out of fashion, you’re able to pull out an outfit and still look great or dated. The last thing you want is to be stuck with a wardrobe filled with garments that will be “so last season” two months after splurging on it. And just because a look is trending doesn’t mean you HAVE to hop on it either. Just because the low-rise jeans are back, it doesn’t mean we should all have our hip bones on display. A trend we had hoped was left behind in the late ’90s. Why does everybody find the need to wear floss tops or dresses with cut-outs in all the wrong places? Is this really what women want in fashion? I asked the ladies in the Independent Online lifestyle team what, as women, they want to see in fashion and here’s what they had to say.


“I’m tired of loungewear. Can we go back to dressing up UP? I also want more body positivity and inclusiveness in fashion. Why do retailers make only small cuts or cuts that don’t reflect the demographics of SA women? Stop shrinking sizes. I hate that, at times, fashion can inadvertently promote body dysmorphia. Too many women are starving to fit into clothes instead of buying clothes that fit them. Most of these small sizes end up on sale or not bought. The UK has its own sizing, and the US and Europe have their own sizing as well. It’s about time that we work towards clothes that are suited for African figures and stop chasing eurocentric beauty ideals when on African soil. I’d like African women to be more comfortable in their skin instead of feeling that they have to change who they are in order to fit in.” - ZAMANDOSI CELE

“What I would like are a pair of jeans that fit properly and not while my whole booty is on display. I find it so annoying when I fit on a snug pair only to find that half my ass is sticking out no matter how far I pull them up. I’m not a plumber, and I’m not a fashionista. All I want are jeans that fit. You’d think that would be easy, but it’s not. Dear Levi’s, please, please, if you want my hard-earned cash, no low rise, tight ass jeans.” - MARCHELLE ABRAHAMS

‘Fashion is transient, trends come and go. I believe in style, not fashion. ‘ - Ralph Lauren

“I’ve come to understand that trends aren’t everything in fashion. Every season, a must-have piece for your wardrobe emerges that, regrettably, you’ll probably only use once. And buying every season’s must-have isn’t necessarily fashion. More celebrities are embracing sustainable fashion and minimising their environmental impact wherever possible. And as a result, you’ll collect a bunch of out-of-season clothing that you actually rarely wear. Waste of money, and no one wants to look tacky no matter how expensive your pieces are, and that is almost guaranteed if you don’t know how to put your clothes together. A capsule wardrobe is one of the most popular recent trends. I’d support a style hack in which you wear fewer clothes, and everything you own complements one another. Do a wardrobe inspection, your lifestyle, and your activities to give you a sense of your style. Choose the style of clothing to incorporate into your now-daily wardrobe. Easily achieve maximum style with minimal effort.” - VUYILE MADWANTSI


‘Bon Ami is a celebration of self, a tribute to one’s inner beauty and resilience,’ - Bonnie Mbuli

Bon Jew o com


nnie’s wels of mfort

KEDIBONE MODISE INTERNATIONALLY recognised actress and TV host Bonnie Mbuli’s mental well-being and passion for accessories have inspired her decision to venture into the world of jewellery. The “Noughts + Crosses” star is celebrating the beauty of the South African people with her jewellery collection, “Bon Ami”, which launched in the country this week. “Bon Ami is a celebration of self, a tribute to one’s inner beauty and resilience. We all love to adorn ourselves with beautiful things and for my first collection, I wanted the adornment to speak to where people are at and what I think is important right now; self-care and mental wellbeing,” said Mbuli. Bon Ami’s first collection also aims to raise awareness about mental health. “Mental health has been the cause that makes my heart beat because I know that without a healthy mind, living your life as the best version of yourself can become quite tough or near impossible, now more than ever in the world. People are finding it even more difficult to feel mentally whole and well.” Each piece in the collection, which includes pendant necklaces, anklets and gold rings, comes with a message. “I’ve found that one of the most important things to pay attention

to is how one regards oneself and speaks of oneself. The messages on the pieces act as a reminder to treat yourself with a healthier mindset and positive self-speak. “Affirmations for me are the first step in owning the realisation that we have the power to build and break our lives with our words. Speaking the things you believe about yourself is the first step to true transformation. What we think and speak is what we become. Words carry energy so it’s literally like wearing your affirmations.” Addressing the preservation of her own mental wellness, Mbuli, who has been open about her struggle with clinical depression and anxiety for years, says it’s important to admit that you’re struggling. “Accept that everyone at some point needs help with something, you are not weak for needing help. “Also, most people don’t believe that the kind of help available out there actually works – it does. Lastly, we have to do the work it takes to get better, taking responsibility for changing our habits, shifting our environment and committing to habits that are proven to have a positive effect our minds and bodies is work we all have to do.” The stainless steel and 18-carat gold-plated collection is available online at www.zackia.co.za. Prices start at R180.


Emma Thompson’s full-frontal scene is a wake-up call for all women struggling with body image


GERRY CUPIDO THE female body is truly a thing of beauty. From the softness of our skin to all our curves, our bodies are not only a visual delight but the bearer of life. We are truly magnificent beings. So why do we hate ourselves so much? Why can’t we look at our naked bodies and celebrate their splendour? Why can’t we see what artists throughout decades have been inspired by to create masterpieces? Why is it that all we see is what’s wrong with it? I’ll tell you why. It’s because women have been told how their bodies should look. We are constantly bombarded with images of the “perfect” female body. Firm, perky breasts, toned abs, shapely legs, thin ankles, perfectly round bottoms, slender arms, the list goes on. While we all know that it’s an unrealistic expectation for all women to look a certain way, we continue to strive to do so. This constant striving for “perfection” has led women to believe their perfectly natural form is ugly. An ageing body, a body that has brought life into the world, one that has borne the stresses of life is even less desired. The older women get the more they dislike their bodies. Our sagging breasts that have provided nutrition to our children,

“I can’t stand in front of a mirror like that. If I stand in front of a mirror, I’ll always pull something in (or do) something. I can’t just stand there. Why would I do that? It’s horrifying.” - Emma Thompsona

the stretch marks covering our bellies where once we bore life, the wrinkles on our faces that once expressed joy and sadness and pretty much everything in between, the skin that has drooped thanks to the force of gravity and having spent more time on earth than the younger women, is now seen as unsightly and preferably kept under covers. When I saw the trailer of Emma Thompson’s latest film Good Luck to You, Leo Grande, I instantly knew that I HAD to watch it. A movie about a widow in her mid-fifties seeking sexual awakening after going through life having never achieved an orgasm or had any other sexual experience other than your run-ofthe-mill missionary position. So she does something completely out of character and hires a sex worker to allow her the opportunity to experience something, anything, beyond what she knows. While I was intrigued as to how the rather handsome sex worker, Leo Grande, played by Daryl McCormack, was going to take her on this sexual journey, I soon realised the film was about so much more than just sex. Thompson’s character, Nancy Stokes, had to first come to terms with and accept her body before she could truly let go of her inhibitions and immerse herself in the experience.

During the first encounter, she could barely stand the sight of her own body, picking out only its flaws. However, by the end, after finally achieving the orgasm that had eluded her, her entire life, she could finally look at her naked body with admiration. It is the closing shot that has had people talking. It is the full-frontal nude scene, of all the sex scenes in the movie, that the 62-old actress described as “the hardest thing” she’s ever had to do. During a press conference at the Berlin Film Festival, Thompson spoke candidly about how she views her own body, saying, “I can’t stand in front of a mirror like that. If I stand in front of a mirror, I’ll always pull something in (or do) something. I can’t just stand there. “Why would I do that? It’s horrifying. But that’s the problem, isn’t it? Women have been brainwashed all our lives. That’s the fact of it. And everything that surrounds us reminds us how imperfect we are and how everything is wrong. Everything is wrong, and we need to look like this.” If a woman as famous as Thompson, who has had a camera in her face almost her life, still feels uncomfortable in her own skin, how long will it take for us to stand naked in front of the mirror and say, “I love this body”?


Meet Miss International South Africa


MANY young girls grow up dreaming about one day wearing a crown. Ferini Dayal, one of those girls, now holds the Miss International South Africa title. “I’ve dreamt about being a beauty queen my entire life, growing up with my dad who is a broadcasting engineer, who filmed many of the pageants in South Africa and my mom who was dressing me up with my crown on so many birthdays. It’s truly a dream that became a reality,” says the 27-year-old Joburg-based doctor/ surgeon. Miss International is the third largest beauty pageant in the world, after Miss Universe and Miss World. It’s held yearly in Tokyo, Japan. This year the final will take place on December 13. “No African country has yet won the crown, I will be the first sent from any African country and I’m hoping I will bring home the crown,” she said. While she always dreamt of wearing a crown, becoming a doctor was her other ambition. She completed a biomedical sciences degree in physiology and graduated at 20. In 2015, she began her medical degree and completed it in 2018. “As I grew older and understood how the women involved in the pageants create change and globally are able to run campaigns and advocate for people throughout the world, I realised how my passion for medicine tied into a childhood dream. “I’ve been practising as a doctor for four years and recently started practising as a surgeon, but throughout my career, I’ve focused on giving back and supporting causes close to my heart which is exactly what Miss International stands for.” She’s also the founder of Dayal

GERRY CUPIDO Foundation, a charitable institute which aims to create a difference in many South Africans’ lives through fund-raising and medical advocacy. “Over the past year and a half, my foundation has raised over a million rand in various projects which aim to educate the public on health topics, eradicate poverty and hunger, improve access to health and basic health needs, and these coincide with the goals of the United Nations.” During the peak of Covid-19, she implemented an initiative to donate gifts to children in paediatric wards – known as the ‘Dayal Christmas Drive’. More than R250  000 worth of toys were donated to spoil each child. We asked Dayal a few questions about the pageant and what the title means to her as well as her views on what is beauty. Why did you enter Miss International? The organisation’s intention aligned with my values, and I knew that it would be a platform where I’d be able to live out my purpose and affect change on an international scale. I believe that there are no coincidences in life, and my path in medicine, surgery, philanthropy and pageantry brought me to this exact moment for a bigger purpose and I intend to put in my best to represent our country and living out my intentions to make a change in this world. What would winning the title mean to you and SA? To win would be my childhood dream becoming a reality. I have many ideas and so much I know that I can accomplish. To have the support of an organisation headed by a powerful woman by my side would be remarkable and I know South Africa would be proud of me too.

To be the first African candidate to bring home a crown and, the first South African, would put us as a country on the map for a prestigious competition which will highlight South African women as winners in the top three pageants and we would be a bigger force to be reckoned with than we already are. It would be an honour. What is beauty to you? Beauty is the outward reflection of your inner expression, it’s about being confident in your pyjamas or your bikini, about being beautiful with and without make-up, and being truly happy with who you are, because that’s when we take pride in our appearance. It’s about loving ourselves, showcasing our personality, and being unafraid of being true to who we are. With social media and filters, people now have an even more warped idea of what beauty is. How do we change the perception of beauty? We need to instil values that remind our younger generations of what authenticity is, that confidence in who you are, how you treat others, your knowledge and the ability to create a positive impact on another person’s life is what truly constituents life. Because beauty will fade, money will come and go, filters will change, and the truth of who you are and what you are will always be visible. . What are your thoughts on aesthetic beauty treatments? I have trained for the past three years in aesthetics and have my own aesthetic practice in Fourways at Cure Day Clinic. I fell in love with aesthetics because of the confidence I was able to restore in a woman who no longer felt happy with themselves. Aesthetics is about enhancing natural beauty, not about changing and distorting what exists.


Shining a light on

m s i n i b l a


Modiselle speaks about her journey as the first professional fashion model with albinism KEDIBONE MODISE INTERNATIONALLY recognised actress and model Refilwe Modiselle continues her quest to raise awareness about albinism. Albinism is a genetic disorder which results in a lack of melanin in the hair, skin and eyes. People with albinism have a reduced amount of melanin or no melanin at all, making their skin sensitive to sunlight. The condition can also affect eyesight. Taking to her Instagram page recently, the Joburg-born star shared a video of her recent interview with UK’s TalkTV’s Petrie Hosken in which she spoke about her journey as the first professional fashion model with albinism. “I’ve become far more than Africa’s first successful model with albinism through my journey … one is doing some incredible things …. There’s a lot of growth & accomplishments that came from how it all began,’’ she said. “I love that I can share my journey & educate worldwide baby, not when people feel they want to call me only for a specific day … But they can actually see the value in what I can impart anytime 24/7/365,” added Modiselle. “I’m Africa’s first successful model with albinism, meaning I’m the first model on the continent to have successfully worked within the modelling industry,” she said. “I started at the age of 13 when I was scouted in high school to do my first five-page editorial for a youth

culture magazine. “At age 13, I had no concept of what that meant for me, because back then there was no representation whatsoever of a person with albinism in mainstream media.” Modiselle said her mother was reluctant at first to have her teenage daughter go into the cutthroat modelling industry. “Little did we know that would be history being made, as well as my career growing into other spaces other than the modelling industry because I then became a TV and radio host.” As an activist, Modiselle also advocates for the rights of people living with albinism. Modiselle recently ventured into acting, her debut being the lead in the international film White Gold in 2020. The film tells the journey of Mansa, an African woman with albinism whose arm is hacked off as the result of myths and misconceptions surrounding albinism and witchcraft. Written and directed by UK-based film-maker Luke Bradford, White Gold made its world debut at the Pan-African Film Festival, where the film scooped its first award – for best short narrative. In February 2020, Modiselle bagged the best actress award at The African Film Festival (Taff) in Dallas, Texas. The film also won best acting honours at the Global Impact Film Festival (Giff) in Washington, DC. The film premiered in South Africa at the RapidLion Film Festival 2020, which was held at the Market Theatre in March.



Makhadzi launches

Mavoda

THOBILE MAZIBUKO SOUTH African singer Makhadzi just entered the beauty market. The “Ghanama” hitmaker took to Instagram to announce the launch of her skincare line Mavoda. “Let me introduce you to MAVODA, the product by myself, Makhadzi. I have been working on this one for years now. So many sleepless nights perfecting it for everyone,” says Makhadzi. She adds that the products are for the whole family, including children. She joins celebrities like Rihanna, of Fenty Beauty, Kim Kardashian, of KKW Beauty, and Kylie Jenner, of Kylie Cosmetics, who own skincare brands. In South Africa, we have Amanda du Pont, the co-founder of Lelive, a vegan skincare brand. There is also Mbali Sebapu from Soshanguve, the owner of Hermosa, a make-up brand, and Boity Thulo of Halo Heritage, a company that makes natural hair and fragrance products. Actress Gail Mabalane also entered the beauty industry this year with Ethnogenics, an innovative local haircare range dedicated to combating hair loss. “It was clear from my own hair loss journey that knowledge was the missing piece. I realised there was a distinct lack of education around how to solve the problem. This led me to create the Ethnogenics range and provide consumers with the information they need to make smarter and more empowered haircare choices aimed at preventing long-term damage to their hair,” said the “Blood and Water” star. Makhadzi’s skincare range launched in May.


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