Luxury Travel Magazine - Issue 64

“ EVERY GLASS OF WINE CAME WITH A SMILE, A STORY AND THE WONDERFUL FEELING THAT EACH BOTTLE WAS CHOSEN ESPECIALLY FOR US.”

184 DESIGN HOTEL in the former Soviet Republic of Georgia.

185 EPICUREAN Hong Kong

200 EPICUREAN NEWS

The latest from the world of great food and drinks.

191 CHEF’S GUIDE TO ... Bangkok with David Thompson.

194 GLOBAL KITCHEN Lombardy, Italy

204 CELEBRITY TRAVELLER Pierce Brosnan

208 CREATIVE TRAVELLER

Festival Director of Sydney Festival, Lieven Bertels.

Regulars

94 DO THIS_HOW TO…

Hire a luxury sports car – your guide to drive like James Bond.

118 MAIN EVENT

We take a trip to the Polo in New York City, plus: top tickets to Wimbledon; Australia’s premium food and wine event in WA; concierge services at Art Basel Miami; and the Australian Ballet perform at qualia.

131 TOUR ANTHOLOGY

Fly around the world by private jet; walk ancient trade routes in Central Asia; andBeyond launches into South America.

171 SUITE LIFE

Some of the best suites from around the world; including London, Hong Kong, Macau, Sydney and Canberra.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Susan Borham sborham@magnesiummedia.com.au

EXECUTIVE EDITOR Gary Allen gary.allen@magnesiummedia.com.au

EDITOR Katrina Holden

EDITORIAL ASSISTANT

Belinda Craigie

ART DIRECTOR

Ivan Chow

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John O’Neill

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EXECUTIVE PRODUCER & PUBLISHER

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JOANNA TOVIA

"In the classic film Live and Let Die, James Bond stayed at luxurious resort Half Moon in Jamaica. Half Moon makes you stop, rub your eyes, and say ‘Am I really this lucky?’. Of all the amazing places I’ve been, this one is a real standout.”

Joanna explores the evolution of the kids' club or village concept and some stand-out, five-star holiday resorts and tours where family experiences matter. Page 28.

JOSHUA DOWLING

“The closest I have been to living like James Bond was at a Rolls Royce event in the Cote d'Azur. The Cap Estel French Riviera resort is on the top of a cliff on the coastline between Monaco and Nice. The room I stayed in was accessed via discreet stairs that disappeared downwards at the back of the garden. The room had been built underground and into the cliff face below.”

In this issue, Joshua outlines the best companies around the world to help you rent a luxury sports car and drive like Bond. Page 94.

MITCHELL OAKLEY SMITH

“The Chicago Athletic Association’s Gothic architecture and dim lighting make its bars the perfect place for a dry martini.”

In this issue, Mitchell writes on the Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in New York and some of the best, new luxury experiences while you’re in the Big Apple in our Main Event section (page 118), before next year’s tournament in June 2016.

CIRCULATION 25,790

Source: AMAA; CAB Total Distribution Audit for further information visit auditedmedia.org.au

Audit Period: 01/04/2014 – 31/09/2014

CONTRIBUTORS THIS ISSUE

Kelly Allen, Ewen Bell, Joshua Dowling, Annika S. Hipple, Timothy Grey, Karen Halabi, Sally Macmillan, Andrew Marshall, Rob McFarland, Mitchell Oakley Smith, Larry Olmsted, Matt Shea, Beatrice Spence, Michael Shaw, Dan Stapleton, Phoebe Stenning, Joanna Tovia, Robert Upe.

Q: What’s your favourite James Bond film scene or setting?

ISSUE#64 / SPRING 2015

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

Welcome to our Spring issue which carries a trail of secret service agent 007 James Bond throughout its pages. As the 24th James Bond film Spectre is released worldwide in November, we reflect in our cover story (page 20) on the timeless popularity of Bond and his luxurious, travelling lifestyle. We open the file on some of the best worldwide locations that have acted as a backdrop throughout the Bond films and where to stay in each location if you want to accept your own 007 mission.

The concept of the kids’ club or village has taken a shift in the last decade, as more families seek cultural and enriching experiences

that not only the kids but all family members can enjoy. We highlight those luxury resorts that are investing in innovative kids’ clubs with a difference (page 28).

Are you a luxury cruise enthusiast – or curious to “dip your toes” into the world of cruising? In our special feature this issue, our specialist cruise writer delves into what to expect on a luxury cruise; the best ships to consider; the differences between ocean, river and expedition cruising; when to book; and also what’s new on the seas in 2016 (page 64).

All your regular favourites can be found in the following pages, including luxury golf, cycling, ski and safari destinations to inspire. This issue, we share our insights

from our recent travels to such destinations as Mauritius and Seychelles (page 135); Fiji (pages 146 and 164); Switzerland (page 150); Ireland (page 38); Macau (page 44); Peru (page 54); and Bodrum (page 187).

As 2016 approaches, we’re also busy preparing to bring you our next Luxury Travel magazine Gold List Awards. Voting is now open and all readers who vote online for their favourite luxury properties, operators and destinations go in the draw to win a luxury holiday package to the five-star Saffire Freycinet in Tasmania worth $7,000. Please visit page 79 for details of how to cast your vote.

KATRINA HOLDEN, Editor

Early SpecialBird

Cover illustration: Pietari Posti / Début Art

Ancient Trade Routes of Central Asia

The mountains and deserts of Central Asia are the backdrop for this extraordinary adventure with A&K’s Managing Director Sujata Raman to the heart of the ancient Silk Road, Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan. This is one of the world’s most remote and untouched areas and during the Middle Ages was the epicentre of a powerful empire.

For over half a century, Abercrombie & Kent has been a pioneer in the world of experiential travel. Our itineraries are backed by over 2,200 handpicked staff across 50 offices worldwide. We have the knowledge and resources to create memorable journeys and take care of every detail before, during and after.

21 May – 4 June 2016

15 Days from $10,995 per person twin share

1300 851 925

DISPATCHES

THE LATEST LUXURY HOTEL AND RESORT OPENINGS, REFURBISHMENTS AND TRAVEL NEWS.

PRESIDENTIAL LUXURY STAY IN NELSON MANDELA'S HOME

The former home of Nelson Mandela on Shambala Private Game Reserve in South Africa is now open to guests. The home where Mandela spent his final 12 years is a 55-minute helicopter ride from Johannesburg. The retreat features five luxury bedrooms with ensuites and a true Presidential Suite (Mandela’s former bedroom). On almost 10,000 hectares of bushland in Limpopo Province, the reserve is home to diverse wildlife including the big five. There are outdoor entertaining options, an indoor heated swimming pool and a viewing deck overlooking a private waterhole. The centre, called The Nelson Mandela Centre for Reconcilliation, can be booked for a maximum of 12 people, for exclusive use only. Stays include meals prepared by a private chef, butler service, South African wines, spirits and liqueurs, and guided game drives and bush walks. And the guestbook includes thank-you notes to Mandela from Oprah Winfrey and Bill Clinton. Rates start from R70,000 (about A$7,478) per night. centreforreconciliation.co.za

RECOMMENDED READING TRAVEL MEMOIRS

Geoffrey Kent, founder and CEO of specialist luxury agent Abercrombie & Kent has published his memoirs reflecting on decades of risk-taking, experiential adventures - upon which he has built a half-billion-dollar travel business. In Safari: A Memoir of a Worldwide Travel Pioneer, Kent reflects on his travels to the world’s most remote locations. Born on safari while his parents, a London debutante and an army colonel, were in Northern Rhodesia, Kent was raised on a farm north-west of Nairobi. The book includes a foreword by DreamWorks CEO Jeffrey Katzenberg, plus details of Kent’s philanthropic and conservation projects.

Published by HarperCollins. RRP $64.99. harpercollins.com.au

PENINSULA GUIDES CITY CONCIERGE

The Peninsula Hotel group, in conjunction with online designer retailer Net-A-Porter, has launched a series of mini city guides. Available online, the guides provide expert tips on the best shopping, cultural attractions and dining options in 10 of the cities where Peninsula hotels are located, including Paris, Shanghai, Hong Kong, Beverly Hills, Manila, New York, Chicago, Bangkok – with Tokyo and Beijing to launch by the end of the year. net-a-porter.com/peninsula

TIME WAITS FOR NO SPY

To coincide with the release of the latest James Bond film Spectre, the official James Bond watch brand OMEGA has created a limited edition Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M model inspired by the Bond family coat of arms. The 41.5mm stainless-steel timepiece is powered by the new Master CoAxial calibre 8507, with a resistance to magnetic fields greater than 15,007 gauss. The watch production has been limited to 15,007 pieces. RRP A$8,600. omegawatches.com

COMO OPENS FIRST AUSTRALIAN PROPERTY NEW OPENINGS

THAILAND LUXURY VILLAS

Ani Villas in Thailand is a new, private estate fully staffed and serviced for families and private groups of luxury travellers, due to open by the end of 2015. With 10 bedrooms, the estate is built along the beachfront at Koh Yao Noi with views over the limestone rock formations of Phang Nga Bay. Facilities include a 30 metre oceanfront pool, waterslide and children’s pool, spa and fitness centre. Guests can arrive by a 10-minute helicopter transfer from either Phuket or Krabi international airports. Rates start from US$6,500 (about A$9,102) per night, excluding taxes and charges, with a minimum three-night stay. anivillas.com/thailand

The Treasury Hotel in Perth’s CBD on Cathedral Avenue is set to open on 15 October. The new COMO hotel is part of a new city centre development designed by architect Kerry Hill, who has meticulously returned the majority of the original heritage building to its 19thcentury origins. It features 48 rooms and suites, a rooftop restaurant with views over the Swan River, a spacious lounge bar, heated indoor swimming poor, and a COMO Shambhala Urban Escape spa with holistic wellness therapies and a wellness centre. comohotels.com/thetreasury

LUXURY WATCH

DISPATCHES

MANDAPA RITZ-CARLTON RESERVE, UBUD, BALI

Ubud is the setting for the third and most-recently opened Ritz-Carlton Reserve. Mandapa offers tailored spiritual, wellness, health and detox programs and full-time dedicated butlers for guests in its 35 suites and 25 private pool villas. mandapareserve.com

HYLANDIA BY SHANGRI-LA YUNNAN, CHINA

A new Shangri-La has opened in Yunnan. With 166 rooms and suites, the Hylandia sits at an altitude of 3,260 metres. shangri-la.com

HOTEL NEWS

W BEIJING

CHANG’AN, CHINA

Right in the centre of it all is W Beijing, with 349 rooms and suites, destination restaurants a heated indoor pool. starwoodhotels.com

MANDARIN ORIENTAL, MILAN, ITALY

Housed within four redeveloped 18thcentury buildings on the Via Andegari, the

THE HOTTEST NEW OPENINGS W0RLDWIDE

FOR BOOKINGS

been transformed into a boutique hotel with 51 rooms and suites. It features a private beach and indoor seawater pool. slh.com/hotels/ boutique-hotel-alhambra

THE LASLETT, LONDON, UNITED KINGDOM

Inspired by the culture of Notting Hill and designed to feel more like a home than a hotel, The Laslett is set across five Grade II listed Victorian townhouse. slh.com/ hotels/the-laslett

ST REGIS DUBAI

HARTMANN SUITCASES

The 7R luggage collection from Hartmann is named after the so-called “restless” 7R gene found in 20 per cent of the world’s population, said to be responsible for exploratory behaviour. The suitcases have an exterior shell designed to replicate a reptile scale pattern, made from impact- and scratch-resistant, lightweight material and with 360 degree multidirectional spinner wheels. Available in three colours (rose gold, aluminium and black) each Hartmann product is endorsed by a lifetime worldwide warranty. Prices start from A$949. hartmann.com

SURVEY WHAT YOU SAID

newest member of the Mandarin Oriental portfolio has 73 rooms and 31 suites appointed by internationally renowned Italian designer Antonio Citterio. mandarinoriental.com

PALAZZO VERSACE DUBAI

The fashion house’s second Palazzo is

less than 10 minutes from Burj Khalifa and downtown Dubai, and overlooks Dubai Creek. palazzoversace.ae

BOUTIQUE HOTEL ALHAMBRA, LOSINJ ISLAND, CROATIA

Designed in 1911 by artist and architect Alfred Keller, this once grand residence has

Due to open in November this year, the St Regis Dubai will have 234 rooms and suites, with an architectural design inspired by New York’s “Gilded Age”. starwoodhotels.com

THE H RESORT BEAU VALLON BEACH, MAHÉ, SEYCHELLES

A new 100-room retreat with private terraces, six restaurants and bars, and a luxury spa with Vichy hydrotherapy room. slh.com/hotels/hresort-beau-vallon-beach

We asked our readers if the difference between first and business class is worth the extra spend.

50 % 50 %

“Definitely.

“I find the pricing differential excessive; business class amenities have improved considerably and one gets more value per dollar spent.”

PALAZZO VERSACE, DUBAI

MANDARIN ORIENTAL MILAN

SHANGRI-LAI YUNNAN

W BEIJING

Business class is mechanical and functional, while first is real luxury."

Keemala is a new luxury resort on the west coast of Phuket Island overlooking the Andaman Sea. A member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World, the uniquely designed property compromises a mix of tree pool houses, tent pool villas, clay pool cottages and bird’s nest pool villas. The architecture of the four different villa types aims to reflect the way of life of ancient Phuket settlers. Keemala only allows guests of 14 years of age and above. keemala.com

Fiji’s unique multi award-winning luxury resort for couples only.

DISPATCHES

MOTORING

NEW SPORTS CAR

Aston Martin has released its new luxury sports car, the DB9 GT. The high-performance model features a 6.0 litre V12 engine capable of 0-100km per hour in 4.5 seconds, with a top speed of 295km/h. In the latest James Bond film, Spectre, Daniel Craig drives the bespoke DB10. The DB9 GT is now available to order, priced from £140,000 (about A$303,015).

LUXURY ITINERARIES NEW LUXURY TOUR CLASS

Insight Vacations has launched its new 2016 Gold Luxury itineraries. Hotels selected for the Luxury Gold journeys are chosen for their combination of location, service and style. The itineraries feature fine culinary and VIP travel experiences – for example, walk along the worldfamous Vasari Corridor atop the Ponte Vecchio in Florence; or gain out-of-hours access to the Sistine Chapel in Rome. All trips are accompanied by multiskilled tour directors to ensure optimum comfort.

insightluxurygold.com

NEW OPENING AMAN OPENS IN THE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC

Amanera in set to open in the Dominican Republic later this year – the Aman group's first golf resort. Located on 809 hectares, the resort sits on a cliff above the beach and beside the Playa Grande golf course, which has the highest number of ocean-side holes in the Western Hemisphere. The resort will have 25 casitas, or villas, 13 of which have their own 10-metre private swimming pool. The two-bedroom Bay View Casa has a 20-metre infinity pool with outdoor dining and lounging areas and a private garden. amanresorts.com

WILDLIFE CONSERVATION SAVING THE DEVIL

Saffire Freycinet, a five-star luxury lodge in Tasmania has opened a Tasmanian Devil Experience. The open-range devil enclosure allows guests to have an up-close encounter with this marsupial that faces extinction. Expert guides tell the story of the Tasmanian Devil and the need to find a cure for the Devil Facial Tumour Disease that threatens its survival. saffire-freycinet.com.au

ASTON MARTIN DB10

ASTON MARTIN DB9GT

Meriton Penthouse Collec tion

FOR YOUR EYES ONLY

CLASSIC CITIES GET REVITALISED AND HIDDEN LOCALES BECOME HOT SPOTS WHEN JAMES BOND ARRIVES, WRITES Dan F. Stapleton.

Why do we still love James Bond movies decades after the first, Dr No, was released in 1962? The outrageous plots, flamboyant acting and wacky gadgets used by British Secret Service agent 007 may be reliably entertaining, but they alone can’t explain the franchise’s enduring popularity. Perhaps it is the locations that continue to draw us in – the cities, both familiar and foreign, where Bond chases villains against historic backdrops, and the

far-off islands where he recuperates, often with a beautiful companion by his side. Sumptuously photographed, these locations fire the imagination, tempting us to jump on the next plane. The latest and 24th James Bond feature film, Spectre, visits Mexico, Morocco and The Alps, and features some of the world’s most characterful hotels: pure eye candy for luxury travellers. To celebrate the staying power of Bond, we open the file on nine spectacular Bond destinations so that you may plan a covert mission of your own.

The Peninsula / Hong Kong

Taj Lake Palace / Udaipur

Phang Nga Bay / Thailand

LONDON

For decades, luxury travellers have been drawn to the British capital’s stately hotels, traditional restaurants and posh boutiques. But attractions such as the fast-growing London Fashion Week and the edgy drinkingand-dining scene in East London have put the destination on the map for younger jet setters. The city takes centre stage in the 2012 Bond instalment Skyfall, which includes a memorable chase through the Underground and an instantly iconic shot of Daniel Craig on a rooftop near the Houses of Parliament. Buildings in London have also ‘stood in’ for countless other locations during filming – check out GoldenEye (1995) to see The Langham transformed into St. Petersburg’s Grand Hotel.

l WHERE TO STAY

The Langham, London Rates start from £317 (about A$662) per night. langhamhotels.com

UDAIPUR,

INDIA

This vibrant city on the shores of Lake Pichola lives up to its reputation as a haven for romantics, boasting ornate palaces and temples, enchanting alleyways, bustling markets and an abundance of upscale hotels. The finest guestrooms

LICENCE TO ‘SPILL’: The Bond Dossier #1

Producers of The Spy Who Loved Me (1977) spent US$1m of their US$13.5m budget constructing what was then the largest soundstage in the world for interior shots of villain Stromberg’s super-tanker.

Die Another Day (2002) reportedly featured product placement worth around US$100m.

in town can be found at the Taj Lake Palace, a striking white-marble edifice that served as Octopussy’s lair in the 13th Bond movie of the same name. In the film, Roger Moore swims up to the palace disguised as a crocodile and spots Octopussy and her entourage relaxing by a shimmering pond. Udaipur may have evolved since the release of Octopussy in 1983 (the lakefront is now crowded with modern hotels), but those in search of historic luxury will not be disappointed.

l WHERE TO STAY

Taj Lake Palace

Rates start from INR 23,100 (about A$489) per night. tajhotels.com

HONG KONG

The city state’s days as a colonial outpost are captured in The Man

With the Golden Gun (1974), which features Hong Kong’s quintessential old-school hotel, The Peninsula Hong Kong. In the film, 007 (Roger Moore) observes Bond girl Andrea Anders being picked up by one of The Peninsula’s distinctive green Rolls-Royce courtesy cars, and follows her to the hotel. Today, visitors to Hong Kong can recreate the classic Bond experience by staying at the restored Peninsula, while sampling some of the island’s newest luxury offerings,

including recently Michelin-starred restaurants such as Nur, Akrame and Upper Modern Bistro (all less than two years old), and the burgeoning Art Basel fair (March 2016).

l WHERE TO STAY

The Peninsula, Hong Kong Rates start from HK$ 3,480 (about A$605) per night. hongkong.peninsula.com

PHANG NGA BAY, THAILAND

The shallow expanse of water between Phuket and the Thai mainland is dotted with small limestone islands, two of which feature in the climactic scenes of The Man With the Golden Gun. Khao Phing Kan, now known as “James Bond Island”, serves as the lair of antagonist Francisco Scaramanga, while adjacent islet Ko Tapu – narrow at its base and wider at its top – also appears. Today, Phang Nga Bay’s picturesque rock formations draw scores of day-trippers on boats from Phuket and Krabi, but several ultra-luxe resorts – including Six Senses on Yao Noi island – manage to retain a sense of seclusion.

l WHERE TO STAY

Six Senses Yao Noi

Villa rates start from THB 14,786 (about A$567) per night. sixsenses.com

One&Only Ocean Club / Bahamas

PARADISE ISLAND, BAHAMAS

This lushly forested speck of land – a stone’s throw from busy New Providence island and Bahamian capital Nassau – featured prominently in early Bond film Thunderball (1965), but is perhaps better known as 007’s Caribbean getaway in Casino Royale (2006). After arriving by seaplane, Bond goes to the One&Only Ocean Club resort, where he plays an intense game of poker, seduces a beautiful woman in his villa and receives an important phone call. The resort is one of the most luxurious in the region (Daniel Craig stayed there while filming Casino Royale) and promises to be even more alluring when a current thorough renovation is finally completed.

l

WHERE TO STAY

One&Only

Ocean Club

Rates start from US$1,329 (about A$1,791) per night. oneandonlyresorts.com

ISTANBUL

The ornate buildings and winding streets of Istanbul feature prominently in From Russia With Love (1963), the poorly received The World Is Not Enough (1999) and Skyfall, which includes a memorable chase across the roof of the Grand Bazaar. Watching the films in succession is an effective way to get familiar with Istanbul, which continues to draw large numbers of luxury travellers from Europe and beyond. The place to stay is the Çırağan Palace, a 19thcentury sultan’s residence on the shores of the Bosphorus reborn as a five-star hotel.

l WHERE TO STAY

Çırag˘ an Palace Kempinski Rates start from €420 (about A$621) per night. kempinski.com

LICENCE TO ‘SPILL’:

The Bond Dossier #2

Bond props fetch big money at auction: in 2006, an Aston Martin DB5 driven by Sean Connery in Goldfinger (1964) and Thunderball sold for £2.9m (about A$6.06m).

According to leaked emails from Sony Pictures, Spectre has a budget of around US$350m, making it the most expensive Bond film ever produced.

VENICE

Bond briefly visits the Floating City during From Russia With Love, but spends considerably more time there in Moonraker (1979), in which he shows off a gondola that doubles as a hovercraft. Venice also looks gloriously romantic in Casino Royale, when Daniel Craig sails into the lagoon with his love interest and moors at the Hotel Cipriani. The hotel, offering postcard views of St. Mark’s Square and an Olympic-sized swimming pool (the only such amenity in crowded Venice), is an enduring favourite in a city with no shortage of luxury accommodation options. A recent renovation has made the 95 rooms and suites even more opulent.

l WHERE TO STAY

Belmond Hotel Cipriani

Rates start from €680 (about A$1,005) per night. belmond.com

Note: Hotel Cipriani closed from 8.11.15 to 16.3.16.

l RECOMMENDED READING TRIGGER MORTIS

by Anthony Horowitz

Iconic Bond Girl Pussy Galore returns in this motor racingthemed action adventure set in the weeks after the end of Ian Fleming’s seventh novel, Goldfinger. Best-selling author Anthony Horowitz was commissioned and authorised by Ian Fleming Publications and the Ian Fleming Estate, and based Trigger Mortis on original material from Fleming’s unpublished story Murder on Wheels. The novel manages to retain the essence of Fleming’s original series, but gives 007 a contemporary edge. hachette.com.au

Belmond Hotel Cipriani / Venice

Schilthorn Mountain / Switzerland

Bond icon

References to James Bond throughout this issue of Luxury Travel magazine are stamped with this icon.

SWITZERLAND

The Swiss Alps have been a playground for Bond and his villains on more than one occasion. Some memorable car-chase scenes were filmed in Switzerland including Goldfinger (1964) and On Her Majesty’s Secret Service (1969) – which was the only 007 movie to feature Australian-born actor George Lazenby as Bond. In the film, the villain Blofeld, played by Telly Savalas, has his headquarters on Schilthorn Mountain in the Bernese Mountains. In August 2015, George Lazenby visited Schilthorn Mountain to open the world’s first 007 Walk of Fame at 2,970m. There’s an interactive exhibition that screens scenes from the film, and a helicopter simulator.

l WHERE TO STAY

Victoria-Jungfrau Grand Hotel & Spa, Interlaken

Rates start from CHF386 (about A$529) per night.

victoria-jungfrau.ch

MEXICO CITY

Billed as the most ambitious introductory sequence in the franchise to date, the opening of Spectre includes 1,500 extras parading in Day of the Dead costumes and a fight scene on an airborne helicopter. Much of Mexico City’s centre was closed off for several days to facilitate filming. The interior scenes were shot on location, too. Rooms at one of the city’s most impressive historic hotels, the Gran Hotel Ciudad de Mexico, feature prominently. Bond buffs may also recognise the Gran Hotel from Licence To Kill, (1989), shot in Mexico, but largely set in the fictional Republic of Isthmus.

l WHERE TO STAY

Downtown Mexico

Gran Hotel Ciudad de Mexico, Mexico City

Rates start from A$321 per night. downtownmexico.com

Joanna Tovia OUTLINES SOME OF THE BEST KIDS' CLUBS AND VILLAGES AT LUXURY RESORTS, WHERE INNOVATIVE FAMILY-FRIENDLY ACTIVITIES ARE TRULY COMING OF AGE.

Building a raft at Jean-Michel Cousteau in Fiji.

Opposite page: Exploring the shallows at JeanMichel Cousteau.

Ho-hum kids clubs are being left behind as savvy resorts come up with experiences so compelling that kids can’t help but look up from their screens and join in the fun. And the kids aren’t the only ones being surprised and delighted by novel holiday experiences; parents signing up for bonding family activities are finding them just as engaging for grown-ups as they are for their tots, tweens and teens.

“Because parents are so busy these days, they are wanting to spend quality time with their kids when they’re away, and they’re getting more adventurous,” says Mary Rossi Travel manager Michael Schischka.

Adventure doesn’t necessarily mean climbing a mountain, but Schischka says it does mean parents want to embrace

and experience different cultures when they travel – and they want the same for their children.

Families don’t have to spend every second together to have a memorable holiday – children still love kids’ clubs and parents still relish spa time and relaxing by the pool. Now, though, luxury hotels and resorts are responding to the call from parents (and children) that kids’ clubs offer more than just a babysitting service.

“Hotels are realising children want to be not just minded, but entertained and challenged,” Schischka says. “It’s not just plasticine and colouring-in anymore, it’s cultural and high-tech – you’ve got to have all that for children these days, otherwise it’s just boring.”

Fiji and Bali are ideal for first-class kids’ clubs, he says, naming Jean-Michel Cousteau, Castaway Island and VOMO in Fiji as the real standouts.

Above: Blowing bubbles at Club Med. Top: VOMO in Fiji.

Where to stay

JEAN-MICHEL COUSTEAU RESORT

FIJI

From A$1,170 a night for two adults and two children under 12 sharing a bure. Includes meals, kids’ club, activities and excursions. fijiresort.com

FOUR SEASONS RESORT BALI JIMBARAN BAY

From A$1,718 per night for three-bedroom villa, includes breakfast. Children under 12 eat free. Kids’ club included. fourseasons.com/ jimbaranbay

VOMO FIJI

From about A$2,280 per night for two adults. Children 4-12, A$160/night. Includes meals, activities and kids’ club. vomofiji.com

CASTAWAY ISLAND

FIJI

From about A$799 per night for a family beach bure. Includes kids’ club and activities. Meal plans available. castawayfiji.com

CLUB MED PUNTA CANA DOMINICAN

From about A$1,610 per night per adult, allinclusive. Luxury family suites available. clubmed.com.au

ABERCROMBIE & KENT FAMILY TANZANIA

AFRICA

All-inclusive eightday tour from about A$8,550 per person, twin-share. abercrombiekent. com.au

SONEVA FUSHI MALDIVES

Two-bedroom Crusoe villa with pool from A$4,075 per night for two adults and two children. Meal plans available. Kids’ club included. soneva.com/ soneva-fushi

REPUB LI C

SAFARI

Jean-Michel Cousteau Resort may be luxurious, but vacationing kids are also revered here as future custodians of the earth. “We have a full-time biologist on staff,” says Jean-Michel’s Christine McCann. “It’s not a babysitting club – it’s very interactive, engaging and a great learning experience. That’s what discerning parents are looking for.”

Many of the resort’s activities engage children in the environment and local culture, ranging from visiting a market and cooking up the produce to carving a sword or racing hermit crabs. Teenage activities are more adventurous (“they’re a little harder to get unplugged”), be it building a raft, kayaking down a river or playing volleyball with locals in their Fijian buddy’s village.

“The emotional connection the kids have with their nannies and buddies is just extraordinary,” McCann says.

Schischka also rates the top-tier Club Med resorts around the world. “Club Med has come up a notch and is becoming

more luxury. They’re all-inclusive and so child-friendly.”

Club Med has evolved its family offerings in recent years to stay ahead of the game. Club Med’s Madeleine Clow recommends Kani resort in the Maldives (don’t miss the family surfing lessons), Club Med Punta Cana in the Dominican Republic (the Cirque du Soleil circus school is fun for all ages) and Valmorel

Chalets in France – who can resist the convenience of a private villa host who prepares breakfast every morning, organises ski lessons and greets the family after a day on the slopes with warm Nutella crepes? La Plantation d’Albion in Mauritius is also a drawcard for families wanting a comprehensive kids’ club, with activities tailored to ages two to 17 years.

Creating life-long memories is key for families when they travel, and parents want to broaden their children’s horizons, Clow says. Club Med is meeting this demand with cultural experiences: cooking and language classes, wildlife tours and eco-adventures such as treetop obstacle courses. “In the luxury holiday sector, it’s about providing a life experience for children, educating children on the world’s cultures, developing their creativity and curiosity, and providing them opportunities to discover and have fun.”

Travel Specialists Mosman managing director Sharyn Kitchener places Club

Above: Cooking class in session at Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay. Opposite page: Go fly a kite at Four Seasons Bali.

“The focus among luxury operators is now firmly on “hands-on experiences that introduce the country’s culture to children and their families in an exciting and engaging manner.”

ABERCROMBIE & KENT MANAGING DIRECTOR SUJATA RAMAN

Med up with many Four Seasons resorts, along with Fiji family favourites Castaway, Jean-Michel Cousteau and VOMO Island – which has a Kids’ Village with a kids’ restaurant and dedicated chef. But not all kids’ clubs are impressive in the five-star market, she warns. “The majority offer little more than glorified babysitting and few cater to kids older than 12.”

Kitchener is often asked to tailor family trips to expose kids to a different way of life – helping to build a house or visiting a local school, for example. Volunteer activities such as these are not only bonding, but also give kids a new perspective on their own lives. “A lot of parents try to reconnect with their kids on holidays. They want to get away from WiFi and communicate,” she says.

Biking, Vespa and walking tours are good bonding activities, but Kitchener suggests a private family tour so children really engage with the experience. “If you’re on a tour with 30 other people, the kids get lost.” Tours catering to kids’

interests can be just as exciting for adults – a treasure hunt at the Louvre or a Harry Potter tour of London, for example.

Parents wanting to escape city life can find wildlife experiences with wow factor, too. On Abercrombie & Kent’s eight-day family safari through Tanzania, a Young Explorers Guide coordinates activities to enliven the experience. Kids might spend the day in a Maasai village, cook up some

bush cuisine or enjoy a children-only game drive through the Serengeti.

A&K managing director Sujata Raman says the focus among luxury operators is now firmly on “hands-on experiences that introduce the country’s culture to children and their families in an exciting and engaging manner.” No-one in the family is likely to forget engaging in hand-to-hand combat at a Roman gladiator school, making dumplings and learning kung-fu in China, or going on horseback safari in Africa.

Kids’ clubs and family activities are set to advance even further in the near future. Soneva Fushi in the Maldives is building a playground of the imagination set to open later this year, with a pirate ship, music studio, teen zipline and secret flower garden decked out with treetop nests and swings. Along with a slew of child-centric activities, parents and kids can come together with father-and-son picnics, mother-and-daughter spa treatments and family cooking classes.

Above: Soneva Fushi, Maldives (render). Opposite page: Abercrombie & Kent Tanzania family safari.

FROM DUBLIN TO GALWAY, GUINNESS TO POTATOES: A CULINARY EXPEDITION ACROSS THE IRISH HEARTLAND

Old-fashioned pubs in the cathedral district, Belfast.

DINING IN THE EMERALD ISLE

THERE’S A LOT MORE TO CONTEMPORARY IRISH CUISINE THAN GUINNESS AND POTATOES SAYS Tim Grey.

CHEF STEPHEN M c ALLISTER THE PIG'S EAR

A VERY COSY COTTAGE IN DINGLE

PHOTO:TIM GREY

WALKING THE STREETS OF DUBLIN

PHOTO:TIM GREY

CHEESEMONGER AT SHERIDAN'S

PHOTO:TIM GREY

A FROSTY MORNING AT NEWGRANGE

PHOTO:TIM GREY

SLOW-COOKED GLAZED PORK, THE PIG'S EAR

JAMES STREET SOUTH BAR & GRILL THE HILLS OUTSIDE OF SLIGO

PHOTO:TIM GREY

OXMANTOWN CAFE, DUBLIN

PHOTO:TIM GREY

Irish food gets a bad rap. While travelling the length and the breadth of this tiny but spectacular island on the Atlantic, to be sure, we ate some potatoes. But there’s much more to Ireland than the humble spud: outstanding grassfed beef, market-fresh vegetables, rustic breads, handmade sweets – and a claim on the world’s best seafood.

Like most culinary adventurers, we picked up the food trail in the capital. Dublin might be best known for its downhome pub meals served with creaming pints of jet-black Guinness, but it’s also home to no less than four Michelinstarred restaurants. Patrick Guilbaud’s Franco-Celtic cuisine has been collecting gongs since 1981, and Chapter One presents a polished if somewhat staid fine-dining experience.

However, it’s the new guard of Irish chefs championing fresh takes on traditional cuisine who are making truly exciting food. Overlooking the ancient grey roofs of Trinity College is The Pig’s

Where to stay in Ireland

Ear, a three-level venue fitted out like a comfortable, if eclectic, household. Chef Stephen McAllister has crafted a simplesounding but deftly executed menu that favours local, seasonal and organic. A slow-cooked, glazed pork belly from nearby Crowe’s Farm served with burnt pear, butternut, pumpkin seeds and artisanal black pudding is a standout; as is roast cod with lardo, salt cod brandade, sweetcorn, hay-smoked butter, clams and samphire. Sharing a bottle of crisp, oily Albarino from a smart wine list only improves the fare.

Aforementioned pub meals are not

DUBLIN The Merrion Hotel

The Merrion Hotel sits in the heart of the city centre, featuring 142 bedrooms and suites within its four restored Georgian townhouses. It is also home to the two-star Michelin restaurant Patrick Guilbaud. Priced from A$496 per night. merrionhotel.com

BELFAST

The Merchant Hotel

Situated in Belfast’s historic Cathedral Quarter, the grand Art Deco-inspired hotel houses a luxury spa, rooftop gymnasium with panoramic city views, and a Jazz bar – all a short distance from Belfast’s premier attractions. Priced from A$429 per night. themerchanthotel.com

to be sniffed at, either. Converted grocercum-bar, L. Mulligan Grocer, throngs with locals who queue for the tasty counter meals and craft beer. Think spiced potted crab with lemony croutes, or a free-range vegetarian Scotch egg with cheddar, mustard leeks and a house-made relish, served with a Kentucky IPA.

A traditional Irish dish is smoked salmon, served on sweet, dark-brown soda bread. Its best iteration was at Hatch & Sons. This casual cafe with raw wooden tables and reclaimed lamps serves us a cutting board covered in totally delicious dark-pink salmon with oat-dusted bread.

The city’s cafe scene is expanding, with local roasters opening up shop and baristas serving filter and AeroPress alongside the espresso double-shot. 3FE, founded by World Barista contender Colin Harmon, is roasting the country’s best coffee (and we drank a lot), with quality blends for the milky drinkers and single-origin filters for coffee snobs. Across the Liffey, there’s a new cafe called Oxmantown, which serves spot-on Reuben sandwiches and Cloud

GALWAY

Glenlo Abbey Hotel

This luxurious heritage building, situated on its own lush, expansive grounds, offers five-star accommodation, various fine-dining options, and its own golf course, all only minutes away from Galway City. Priced from A$285 per night.

glenloabbeyhotel.ie/en

Ashford Castle

This restored castle is settled on 142 hectares of woodland, and is the height of luxury with 82 guestrooms, a range of available activities – and, of course, that acclaimed Irish hospitality. Priced from A$542 per night. ashfordcastle.com

The foodiest city in all of Ireland is Galway. A port whose European influence is visible in its Spanish arches, but whose Celtic pride runs deep, Galway’s food culture is vibrantly alive.

Picker coffee while you stare out dreamily into the street.

Across the border in the north, the Belfast food scene is also no slouch. It pains me to say it, but the best steak I’ve ever eaten came from James Street South Bar & Grill: dry-aged and cooked over an insanely hot, wood-fired Josper grill, and served with smoky Brussels sprouts – expertly simple. Up in the Cathedral district, where every alleyway opens onto a jumping little pub, there’s a hilarious (and delicious) Southern-style chicken diner named Yardbird. Again, the menu is simple: dry-rubbed free-range chicken cooked over coals and served in wholes, halves or quarters, with corn, coleslaw or fries on the side – genuinely finger-lickin’ good and a huge amount of fun.

But perhaps the foodiest city in all of Ireland is Galway. A port whose European influence is visible in its Spanish arches, but whose Celtic pride runs deep, Galway’s food culture is vibrantly alive. While its cultural influences certainly don’t hurt, it’s the quality of the produce that makes the West Coast so exciting. Culinary travellers flock to the annual Galway International Oyster Festival, but the seafood is good all year round. Moran’s Oyster Cottage has a reputation for top-quality oysters and smoked salmon stretching back to the 1760s. Sitting before the fire with a plateful of bivalves and pint of Murphy’s Stout is just as good now as it was then.

Of course, you needn’t go out when you can simply cook yourself. Galway Farmers’ Markets bring the best West

Following the food festivals

If you’re a diehard foodie, it’s a good idea to organise your trip around Ireland’s many food festivals. A Taste of West Cork Food Festival, which takes place in Skibbereen from 4-13th of September, is one of the country’s longest-running. It features food markets and special dinners, along with a host of cooking classes and exhibitions.

Galway International Oyster Festival, running from the 24-27th of September is an all-out celebration of the region’s world-class shellfish. It’s actually the world’s oldest oyster festival and is held every year at the beginning of the oyster harvest. To welcome the bivalves, there are street parades, seafood trails, plenty of champagne and, obviously, rivers of stout.

But, if you really want to take things back to basics, October 3 is National Potato Day, with farm visits, spud roasts and celebrity cooking events all over the country.

Coast produce into town. We found foraged mushrooms, heirloom carrots with the dirt still on and bright green sprouts clinging to the stalks – all organic and locally grown. Across the square is Sheridans Cheesemongers, a fromagerie and wine-shop/bar with an international reputation. It has a careful selection of international cheeses and a broad range of excellent locals. Ireland’s washed-rind cheeses, grassy and bold, should be as world-renowned as the country’s whiskey.

So, foodies aren’t exactly starved for choice. But, even with the wealth of beautiful cuisine, it was a little Galway eatery named Ard Bia that provided our journey’s standout meal. Housed in a medieval stone building on the banks of the river, Ard Bia is equal parts cafe, pantry and à la carte restaurant. There’s a faint North African inflection to the unarguably Irish menu, with dishes such as Galway Goat farm fresh cheese, pear, walnuts, wild rocket; and local shellfish risotto, saffron bisque and pea shoots, changing seasonally. Proprietor Aoibheann MacNamara has a judiciously light touch, which transforms rustic, familiar dishes into something more refined. In fact, Ard Bia was so good, we went straight back the next night. How much are tickets again…?

IRELAND l GETTING THERE

Emirates flies to Dublin from Sydney and Melbourne via Dubai. Return economy fares are priced from A$1,539 and return business class fares from A$16,824. Flying time is about 27 hours including stopover. emirates.com

BELFAST NORTHERN IRELAND DUBLIN GALWAY

United Kingdom

ARD BIA, GALWAY

ARD BIA, GALWAY

THE DOOR TO NORTH AMERICA IS OFFICIALLY OPEN.

Daily non-stop to Vancouver with same-plane service to Toronto and connections to over 100 North American destinations.

Air Canada has been voted the Best Airline in North America five years in a row by Skytrax and for good reason. Fly our International Business Class and enjoy fully lie-flat beds, over 600 hours of in-flight entertainment and access to our award-winning Maple Leaf™ Lounges and concierge services. All this is conveniently offered on daily non-stop flights from Sydney to Vancouver with smooth connections to over 100 destinations in North America.

For more information or to book a flight, contact your travel agent or visit aircanada.com.

WE VISIT MACAU, A CULTURAL MELTING POT OF CHINESE AND PORTUGUESE TRADITION.

MACAU

ONCE A TINY COLONIAL BACKWATER, MACAU HAS LITERALLY REBUILT ITSELF BY RECLAIMING LAND FROM THE OCEAN. Ewen Bell EXPLORES THE GLITTERING CITY THAT ROSE FROM THE SEA.

Photography Ewen Bell

A narrow street of old Macau dwarfed by the Grand Lisboa tower.

macau is little more than a cluster of small islands and a slip of land that clings to the edge of China, a unique cultural mix that embraces 500 years of Portuguese influence and an enduring fascination with Chairman Mao. Old China traditions still flourish on the Macau Peninsula where narrow streets hug the curves of the landscape and you can find grandmothers making wonton by hand while the rest of the family pours noodle soup and serves customers. Roasted ducks hang from stalls in the market alongside freshly picked durians and rambutans.

The ruins of St Paul’s rise above the surrounding neighbourhood, a beacon for travellers making day trips from Hong Kong – and a useful landmark for any visitor lost among the laneways. Fruit stalls and knee-high Taoist spirit houses line the smaller lanes, which even a scooter would find difficult to navigate. Buy a mango from an old lady wearing pyjamas on one street, then shop for an exquisitely carved jade Buddha on another. Pockets of tranquillity that were once the private gardens of wealthy merchants are now public spaces. Jardim de Lou Lim IOC is a tranquil enclave where every day people practise tai chi or feed the turtles.

In many ways, Macau is more Chinese than China, having skipped the Great Leap Forward, and instead taking a great leap outwards. What was once only three square kilometres of viable terrain is now 10 times the size and growing. Reclaiming land from the sea has created more than just a convenient ferry terminus for connecting to Hong Kong and international flights – it has been the foundation of a modern Macau where resorts, casinos and high-end retail

The city’s first high-rise urban resort within Galaxy Macau has 256 rooms, 10 villas and a presidential suite. Rates start from MOP2,464 (about A$415) per night (before taxes & fees). banyantree.com

The Ritz-Carlton, Macau This all-suite hotel within Galaxy Macau overlooks the city. Rates start from HKD$3,988 (about A$701) per night. ritzcarlton.com

Located in the One Central development, this luxury hotel has 213 rooms. Rates start from HKD$3,188 (about A$561) per night. mandarinoriental.com/ macau

Strip

This luxury hotel features five pools, including a lagoon and 360 guestrooms and suites. Rates start from HKD$2,288 (about A$402) per night.

fourseasons.com/macau

Banyan Tree Macau

Mandarin Oriental Macau

Four Seasons Hotel Macao Cotai

Where to stay in Macau

In many ways, Macau is more Chinese than China, having skipped the Great Leap Forward, and instead taking a great leap outwards. What was once only three square kilometres of viable terrain is now 10 times the size and growing.

Clockwise from top left: Roasted ducks in a row; Macau cityscape; durians in the market; tai chi at Jardim de Lou Lim IOC.

Luxury Adventure Cruises TRUE NORTH Luxury Adventure Cruises

An adventure on the TRUE NORTH is one of Australia’s most revered holidays! Bigger ships cannot go where we go! Extended periods at sea are specifically excluded and daily activities can include scenic walks, fishing, snorkelling, diving, scenic flights in the ship’s helicopter and cultural events. We deploy comfortable expedition boats (not rubber boats) and discover wilderness in small groups. An AUSTRALIAN crew uniquely chaperones every experience. Beware of imitations and discover for yourself why our guests consistently remark “that’s the best holiday I have ever had!”

An adventure on the TRUE NORTH is one of Australia’s most revered holidays! Bigger ships cannot go where we go! Extended periods at sea are specifically excluded and daily activities can include scenic walks, fishing, snorkelling, diving, scenic flights in the ship’s helicopter and cultural events. We deploy comfortable expedition boats (not rubber boats) and discover wilderness in small groups. An AUSTRALIAN crew uniquely chaperones every experience. Beware of imitations and discover for yourself why our guests consistently remark “that’s the best holiday I have ever had!”

Each year in December – a very select group of adventurers embark on the TRUE NORTH to explore the rarely visited Louisiade Archipelago. They snorkel over WW II wrecks, hike on Jurassic like islands, battle marauding mackerels and dive on the aptly named Fish City! This year’s special guest is renowned underwater photographer Darren Jew. Cruise includes private jet transfer ex Cairns.

Each year in December – a very select group of adventurers embark on the TRUE NORTH to explore the rarely visited Louisiade Archipelago. They snorkel over WW II wrecks, hike on Jurassic like islands, battle marauding mackerels and dive on the aptly named Fish City! This year’s special guest is renowned underwater photographer Darren Jew. Cruise includes private jet transfer ex Cairns.

Don’t miss this opportunity to discover the secrets of underwater photography – cabins are limited, book now!

Don’t miss this opportunity to discover the secrets of underwater photography – cabins are limited, book now!

North Star Cruises Australia

North Star Cruises Australia

Tel: (+61 8) 9192 1829

Tel: (+61 8) 9192 1829

Email: cruise@northstarcruises.com.au

Email: cruise@northstarcruises.com.au

www.northstarcruises.com.au

www.northstarcruises.com.au

Twenty Five Years of Adventure

Twenty Five Years of Adventure

towers now dominate the landscape. Peering down onto the city from the Macau Tower tells the story of progress. To the north is the Grand Lisboa, tallest building in Macau and home to The Eight, its only Michelin three-starred Chinese restaurant. Southwards, the islands of Taipa and Coloane are connected by the Cotai Strip, a reclaimed body of land large enough for a racing track and home to casinos including the Venetian Macao, Sands Cotai and Galaxy Macau.

Integrated resorts such as Galaxy Macau define modern Macau. It's a single destination where several hotels nest together, sharing access to fine dining, family-friendly activities and a casino the size of an airport terminal. Galaxy is a mix of style and substance. There are three hotels in the integrated resort, but the stand-out luxury accommodation is Banyan Tree Macau, its spacious suites designed to keep gadgetry to a minimum, style to the maximum. There are a small number of exclusive villas down by the pool for couples and families who want to spend more time in resort mode and less shopping or playing cards. The pool is dwarfed by the scale and audacity of the adjoining wave pool/waterslide and river ride. Waves roll onto the “sky-high” sandy

beach, complete with a life guard and fringed by palm trees. It’s a world away from baccarat and blackjack.

Galaxy Macau is also home to China Rouge, an exclusive private members entertainment club. Its walls and halls are adorned with contemporary flare, sculptures and paintings giving an irreverent nod to Mao Zedong and his influence in reshaping Chinese culture.

The concierge at Banyan Tree Macau describes Long Wa Teahouse as the kind of place the Chairman would have approved of. In this quiet little dim sum house overlooking Red Market, a portrait of Mao takes pride of place between large red calligraphy panels that impart the wisdom of his Little Red Book. Bamboo cages are filled with har gao and char siu bao. Dim sum literally translates as “little hearts”, hinting at the joyful surprise of the flavours wrapped within each dumpling. Long Wa Teahouse doesn’t do trolleys; you collect your choice of dim sum from the little steam table. The only thing to order off the menu is a blend of tea leaves for the pot.

The Long Wa is a long way downtown from the Grand Lisboa and Michelinstarred dining, but it’s a taste of Macau that will be equally memorable.

Above left: Galaxy Macau. Above right: dim sum at Long Wa Teahouse.

Opposite page: Chairman Mao gazes down from the wall at the Long Wa Teahouse.

l RECOMMENDED READING AN INSULAR POSSESSION

by Timothy Mo

An historical novel that follows two young Americans on the China Coast in the 1830s, during the time of the first Anglo-Chinese Opium War. An Insular Possession was nominated for The Booker Prize in 1986. hachette.com.au

China

MACAU

l GETTING THERE

Cathay Pacific flies daily to Hong Kong direct from Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane. Return economy fares are priced from A$865 and return business class from A$6,080. Flying time is about eight hours, 40 minutes. cathaypacific.com

From Hong Kong, Macau is about a one-hour ride on the TurboJet ferry, departing every 15 minutes between 7am and midnight. Economy class tickets are priced from HK$164 (about A$29) or HK$1,303 (about A$230) for a VIP cabin (seats four).

TurboJet has a newly refurbished Premier Jetfoil boat, which is a five-star option featuring reclinable leather seats, onboard entertainment, air conditioning and free WiFi. The Premier Jetfoil departs about every half hour and is priced from HK$421 (about A$74). turbojet.com.hk

HONG KONG MACAU

Scenic has combined the ease of all-inclusive luxury travel with journeys that offer a true insight into the culture, landscape and history of South America. This itinerary starts in the World Heritagelisted city of Quito and takes in all the key icons of the continent, as well as a deluxe expedition cruise for three nights of the Galápagos Islands where you

South American Adventure

Karen Halabi DISCOVERS THAT WHILE IT WAS ONCE THE UGLY SISTER OF THE VIETNAMESE CENTRAL COAST, THE PORT OF DANANG IS NOW ON THE RISE.

TEN BEST THINGS TO DO IN DANANG U

ntil recently, danang was largely overlooked by travellers who flew into its gateway airport en route to its UNESCO-listed sister cities of Hoi An and Hue. Now those tourists are stopping to take a look and stay a while. Nowhere in Vietnam is changing as fast, a change that began with the opening of a revamped Danang International Airport in 2012. Trip Advisor this year ranked it the world’s top destination on the rise for 2015.

A city on Vietnam’s Central Coast beside the South China Sea, Danang (Da Nang) was a French colonial port, then a US airbase during the Vietnam War. In recent years, Danang has shaken off its military past, becoming a vibrant, brash, modern city that is not only the fastestgrowing, but was also recently voted the most liveable in Vietnam.

1. BEST DAY TOUR

Ba Na Hills is a French colonial resort town in the cool hills above Danang, where the temperature can drop to 20 degrees or lower. With a temple, fantasyland castle, hotel, train station (Gare Morin) and alpine rollercoaster, it sits at the top of the world’s longest and highest non-stop cable car ride. The fivekilometre trip to 1,500 metres above sea level takes about 20 minutes and costs US$25 (about A$34).

2. BEST MUSEUM

Central Vietnam was once the centre of the Cham Kingdom, which included Cambodia and parts of Laos. The tiny Da Nang Museum of Cham Sculpture is the only museum in the world dedicated to Champa culture. It houses the largest collection of Cham art in the world – more than 2,000 sculptures, including artifacts from My Son. Entry is only VND40,000 (less than A$2.50).

BA NA HILLS CABLE CAR

NAMAN RETREAT

3. BEST VIEWS

The hills of Nui Son Tra (dubbed Monkey Mountain by US soldiers) with its Lady Buddha, a 27m-high statue that towers over Danang, provides a great view over the coast. A former strategic military area, Son Tra Peninsula was once called “God’s eye of Indochina” because the American military used it during the Vietnam War.

Other great views include: from the Ba Na Hills cable car over jungle rainforest; the Marble Mountains, five limestone outcrops that are home to pagodas and caves containing Buddhist shrines.

4. BEST BEACH

Many new hotels and resorts are springing up on the sparkling white-sand beaches along Danang’s coastline. The entire China Beach (Non Nuoc) strip to the southwest of the city is now one big resort strip. My Khe is also very popular.

5. BEST PLACE TO STAY

The new Naman Retreat has some eye-catching style with a giant central “drum” (a bamboo building shaped like a Vietnamese drum), bamboo architecture and its wave villas (grass-covered, corrugated concrete bunkers) on the beachfront. It’s the work of Vietnamese architect Vo Trong Nghia, known for his sustainable green designs. The beach and pool villas are only 500 metres from Montgomerie Golf Links. namanretreat.co

6. BEST SIGHT

Several spectacular bridges spanning the Han river are illuminated at night with ever-changing colourful displays. The most spectacular is the new Rong (“Dragon”) Bridge, a 666 metre-long, six-lane bridge that breathes out fire and water. The best view is from the water on a river cruise that also affords spectacular views of other illuminated buildings along the foreshore. Along with the giant Sun Wheel, one of the largest in the world, it is now the most striking landmark of the new Danang.

7. BEST LOCAL DISH

Danang is famous for seafood, spring rolls and cao lau (the traditional food of the area) which differs from typical Vietnamese noodle dishes because it has no soup, like the better-known pho. 4U Restaurant on My Khe beach is famous for its seafood dishes (4urestaurant.vn). Or try Danang local specialties at one of three Tran restaurants in the city (dacsandanangtran.com. vn). Red Bridge Cooking School (visithoian.com/redbridge) runs half- or full-day cooking courses at its restaurant by the river on the outskirts of Hoi An.

8. BEST RESORT ON THE OUTSKIRTS OF DANANG

The sophisticated Nam Hai offers 60 one-bedroom and 40 pool villas over 35 hectares on Ha My Beach between Danang and Hoi An. It really put the Central Coast on the radar of luxury travellers when it opened in 2006. Its architecture is inspired by feng shui and the resort boasts three swimming pools, a luxury spa and a calming lotus pond. ghmhotels.com/en/nam-hai

9. BEST RESTAURANTS

A great place to try a modern twist on Vietnamese is the Australian-owned Waterfront on Bach Dang Street alongside the river. So, too, is Memory Lounge Bar & Restaurant (loungememory. com), which floats on the Han River. Also recommended: Hay Hay, the restaurant at the Naman (namanretreat.com), and Ca Chuon Co seafood restaurant on the beach at Accor’s new Premier Village (accorhotels.com)

10. BEST COFFEE

Vietnam Airlines flies from Sydney and Melbourne to Danang, via Ho Chi Minh. Return economy fares from Sydney start from A$1,461; business class from A$3,361. Total flying time from Sydney to Ho Chi Minh is 8 hours, 45 minutes; and 1 hour, 20 minutes from Ho Chi Minh to Danang. vietnamairlines.com

Vietnam grows very good coffee. Try it at Danang Souvenirs & Café (danangsouvenirs.com) 34 Bach Dang Street, or at Rafew Cafe at 58 Hoang Van Thu Street, Hai Chau.

DRAGON BRIDGE

NAM HAI RESORT

HIGH SOCIETY LAKE TITICACA

PHOTOGRAPHY BY TIM GREY.

as the sun dips under the cordillera range to the west, dusted in snow, the black wave of a storm rises behind it. Persimmon-coloured light floods the fields where campesinos plough by hand. Children herd a flock of sheep home, pitching stones to guide them. The burnt-orange light turns purple on the surface of the lake. It is one of those rare dreamlike afternoons I won’t soon forget.

About 3,800 metres above sea level, the 195 kilometre-long Lake Titicaca is the one of the highest lakes in the world. From its western edge, in the Puno region of Peru, the shores of Bolivia are visible some 65 kilometres away. Here on the altiplano it’s an austere, dramatic landscape – endless, straw-coloured plains, red mud, and temperatures verging on crisp.

While regions such as Cusco now revolve almost entirely around tourism, life on the altiplano goes on much as it has for thousands of

years. While much of Peru is Quechua-speaking, Titicaca locals are mostly Aymara, who were conquered by the Incas around 1600. Evidence of their culture is everywhere – from massive cup-shaped tombs on the hillside at Sillustani to apartment buildings on the rough dirt streets of Juliaca. Many are subsistence farmers, growing quinoa, corn or potatoes, running small flocks of sheep and weaving the wool by hand.

In Copomaya village, we meet Angela and her granddaughter, Ofelia, who wears a hat the same shape and colour as a Peruvian lily. In their dirt-floored courtyard, Angela stoops over a wooden loom, unpicking threads of llama wool with a sharpened bone. I buy a rug hand-woven by her grandmother, an everyday artwork used by locals to carry goods to market.

Jutting from the lake is Taquile, a stony island inhabited for some 3,000 years. It boasts UNESCO heritage status and an unusually

South America Travel Centre specialises in creating tailor-made holidays in South and Central America, including Peru. They prefer to utilise boutique, characterful properties that offer a high level of service and excellent cuisine. Titilaka is a perfect example.

southamericatravelcentre.com.au

While regions such as Cusco now revolve almost entirely around tourism, life on the altiplano goes on much as it has for thousands of years.

Most people here are subsistence farmers, growing quinoa, corn or potatoes, and tending small flocks of sheep or llamas. The Aymara people of Titicaca weave elaborate textiles (below).

Mediterranean microclimate. The locals build terraces for farming and weave elaborate textiles. We meet Roberto, who serves us a delicious quinoa soup garnished with piquant salsa.

Their neighbours literally live on the lake. The Uru people have lived on floating islands made from woven totora reeds for thousands of years, supporting themselves by fishing and trade. These days, most Uru live in nearby Puno, but their way of life is preserved on about 45 “islands”. Travelling in by boat, an elder waving a chequered flag directs visitors to a nearby island, which bobs gently underfoot as people go about their daily business.

Despite the abundant cultural authenticity around Titicaca, visitors need not be deprived of their luxuries. Titilaka lodge is a modern boutique hotel on the banks of the lake run by Relais & Châteaux. Decorated in a quirky, post-modern style, there is local and international artwork on display and each one of the 18 guestrooms features lake views. Excellent dining comes with the tariff, including a haute cuisine take on local dishes such as tender pork chicharrònes (fried pork rinds). Daily activities range from bird-watching to cycling, sailing and visiting

local ruins – and the staff regularly monitor your oxygen levels to ensure you’re in good health at this high altitude.

About two hours from the nearest airport, the lodge sits on four acres with two private beaches right beside the lake. Besides guests and staff, there’s no-one else around. The near-total absence of artificial light makes Titilaka a worldclass stargazing spot. It is the perfect place to retreat to, safe behind floor-to-ceiling windows as the rain breaches the mountains and showers down on Lake Titicaca.

LAKE TITICACA

l GETTING THERE

LAN Airlines operates six one-stop (Auckland) flights per week from Sydney to Santiago, Chile, with onward connections to Juliaca, gateway to Puno and Lake Titicaca, via Lima. Return fares start at A$2,205 (economy) and A$4,915 (premium business). LAN also offers three non-stop flights between Sydney and Santiago weekly in codeshare with oneworld partner Qantas. lan.com

l STAY HERE

Rooms at Titilaka are priced from US$1,002 per night (about A$1,309) including meals, activities, excursions and transfers. titilaka.com

LIMA CUSCO

COLOMBIA

The Uru people live on floating islands made of reeds – to which they commute on boats also made of reeds.

Below: Titilaka is a Relais & Châteaux boutique hotel on the banks of Lake Titicaca.

FIELD NOTES

SAFARI CRUISE

TRADITIONAL NITMILUK

Nitmiluk Tours and Cicada Lodge have teamed up to provide a new cruise safari series through Nitmiluk (Katherine) Gorge in the Northern Territory. The cruise will give passengers an intimate view into the history and culture of the Jawoyn people, traditional custodians of the gorge. The safari series offers three options for up to eight guests, visiting scenic sites along the gorge system with commentary provided by a local guide. Activities such as basket weaving, didgeridoo playing and spearthrowing can also be included. Safari duration is from 2.5 to 4.5 hours and priced from A$150 for adults or $120 per child. cicadalodge.com.au

GEAR WILD STYLE

The NosiLife Angler Shirt is made for the great outdoors, created for anglers, hikers and explorers. Made from a special fabric that contains a synthetic insect repellent (permethrin), it is designed to repel bugs, no matter how many times it’s put through the wash. The shirt is also fitted with SolarShield, providing up to UPF40+ protection from the sun. Available in longand short-sleeved styles, it has multiple pockets, a hidden zipped security pocket, and vented back and underarm gussets to keep wearers cool while they travel and explore. Available at David Jones, priced from A$99.95. craghoppers.com

EXPERIENCE WALKING WITH GIANTS

Anantara’s Golden Triangle Elephant Camp & Resort in Thailand is offering a new Walking with Giants experience to guests as part of its all-inclusive Discovery Package. The two-hour stroll alongside the resort’s majestic, rescued elephants takes place in their native jungle habitat, allowing guests the chance to have a more personal and enriching encounter in their natural environment. The excursions give guests the chance to

witness river bath time or playtime in the mud, and guests can help prepare snacks and activities for the gentle giants. The Elephant Camp was established in 2003 alongside Anantara’s Golden Triangle Asian Elephant Foundation, which has rescued more than 40 elephants from Thailand’s city streets. The foundation also assists in conservation efforts and research projects. Package room rates start at A$1,204 per night anantara.com

E-CONCIERGE

Amazon Echo is a portable voicecontrolled device that provides access to music, audiobooks and information like news and weather updates and traffic reports. It can also create lists, link to Google calendar and set timers. Using a ring of seven built-in microphones, the far-field voice recognition can hear from across a room, even when music is playing. It can access audiobooks and music from Amazon Music, Prime Music, Pandora, iHeartRadio and TuneIn. Its smart personality – Alexa – adapts to speech patterns, vocabulary and personal preferences as you use it. Compatible with select audio devices, users can control them through the Echo. RRP US$199 (about A$272). amazon.com

GEAR & GADGETS

DESIGNER COLLABORATION LIMITED EDITION EYES

German company Leica Camera AG has collaborated with Italian automotive design company Zagato to craft a set of limited edition binoculars. The Leica Ultravid 8x32 Edition Zagato is made of finely riveted aluminium and is limited to 1,000 sets worldwide. The binoculars come with a Zagato-designed case made from Italian leather. RRP €3,450 (about A$5,526).

TRACK YOUR TRAVELS

The Lily is a compact, self-flying drone device (1.3kg) that fits in a backpack. Activated by being thrown into the air, the Lily can record 1080 HD video at 60fps (frames-per-second), 120fps slo-mo videos, and can also take still photos. A small waterproof tracker can be slipped into a pocket or worn with the accompanying wrist case. It also has a microphone and a GPS tracker so the drone can follow the user. A mobile app can program other flight paths as well as change camera settings, or edit and share content. Lily can film from 15m high and 30m away from the user. RRP US$729 (about A$996), including shipping. lily.camera

MAGNIFICENT ITALY WITH CAROLINASUSI ITALIA TOURS

Travelling with Carolinasusi Italia Tours is all about food and wine, with travel to remote, scenic parts of Italy.

l Learn about the history of some of the best wine in the world in Tuscany and Umbria, which marries with food that is simple and fresh.

l Sicily has been described as history you can eat, bringing together thousands of years of culinary diversity.

l Emilia Romagna is known as the breadbasket of Italy, home to traditional balsamic vinegar and artisan cheese makers.

l Stand at the summit of Mt Etna and view the world. Go truffle hunting for precious black truffles. Connect with locals to savour the culinary highlights of the region. Take your time, explore and get to really know Italy with us.

PHOTOGRAPHY AND VIDEO

SOUTH AMERICA HAS NEVER BEEN CLOSER!

DISCOVER THE MAGIC OF PERU

LAN Airlines and TAM Airlines form LATAM Airlines Group which serves over 130 destinations in 22 countries.

LAN Airlines offers seven ights per week from Sydney to Santiago, Chile via Auckland and four direct codeshare ights operated by oneworld partner. From Santiago, LAN offers connections to the most wonderful destinations in Peru including Puno, the gateway to Titicaca lake.

TITICACA, PERU

CONSIDERING A CRUISE FOR 2016? Sally MacMillan SURVEYS THE BEST LUXURY CRUISE OPTIONS AND TELLS YOU WHAT TO EXPECT ONBOARD.

Luxury means different things to different people – opulent surroundings and fine dining might be more important to some than exotic itineraries – but for a cruise ship to qualify as true luxury it has to offer very high standards across a range of requirements. As the word “luxury” in the cruise world can be vastly over-used, we’re sticking by the complex and comprehensive rating system established 30 years ago by independent cruise “bible” the Berlitz Complete Guide to Cruising and Cruise Ships.

According to Berlitz, luxury ocean cruise ships rate five stars, range in size from boutique (50 to 250 guests) to mid-size (751-2,000 guests) and their fares should include everything from unlimited drinks to specialty dining and gratuities for crew. (Only two ships have ever scored the coveted five-plus star rating and they are German line Hapag-Lloyd Cruises’ Europa and Europa 2).

Cruises ARANUI

A truly unforgettable experience, the 14 day voyage onboard the Aranui 5 leads you on a spectacular cruise through some of the most remote islands in the world.

Visiting spectacular Nuku Hiva, Ua Pou, Ua Huka, Hiva Oa, Tahuata, Fatu Hiva, Takapoto, Rangiroa and the exciting addition to the ship’s itinerary, Bora Bora, enjoy being welcomed ashore by local villagers and taken on intriguing and enlightening encounters giving you an insight into the natural and untouched Marquesas islands. Aranui’s specially trained guides will accompany you on hikes to beautiful

waterfalls, sacred ritual sites, Paul Gauguin’s grave, museum and more. Enjoy local food, traditions, snorkelling in translucent waters and a wonderfully relaxed atmosphere. Or, if you would prefer, simply sit and watch the freighter in action as essential supplies are delivered to villages. Aranui 5 is scheduled to commence services from early 2016. In the meantime Aranui 3 will operate these cruises.

For further information:

e: info@aranuicruises.com.au

p: (+61) 3 9449 3778

www.aranuicruises.com.au

So we’re talking Crystal Cruises, HapagLloyd, Regent Seven Seas, Seabourn, Sea Cloud Cruises, SeaDream Yacht Club and Silversea. However, the picture is complicated by the trend towards premium cruise lines developing luxury-style “ship within a ship” classes – for example, Cunard’s royal liners, Queen Mary 2, Queen Elizabeth and Queen Victoria, offer a superior experience in their exclusive Grill class, while MSC Cruises and Norwegian Cruise Lines offer a similar category of upper-class suites and exclusive facilities on a select number of their otherwise four-star ships. Holland America Line recently upgraded all its facilities in its top-tier accommodation and its upcoming flagship, MS Koningsdam, will feature a host of luxury touches in its biggest suites.

Earlier this year, Crystal Cruises celebrated its 25 years in the flourishing luxury cruise industry by announcing it was embarking on a massive expansion plan. This December, its fleet of two stylish, five-star vessels, Crystal Serenity and Crystal Symphony, will be joined by the boutique, 62-guest superyacht Crystal Esprit; in 2017, we can expect to see the line’s first river ships in Europe; and in 2018 the first of three new 1,000-passenger, all-suite Crystal Executive Class vessels will be unveiled.

Crystal isn’t the only luxury line that’s building new, even more spectacular ships. Re-

Previous page: National Geographic Orion by Linblad Expeditions.

Above: Europa 2 by Hapag-Lloyd. Below: The new 62-guest superyacht Crystal Esprit by Crystal Cruises.

gent Seven Seas’ 750-guest Seven Seas Explorer will launch in June next year, promising to be the “most luxurious ever”. Seabourn is building two identical 604-guest ships, Seabourn Encore and Seabourn Ovation, which will launch in late 2016 and 2018 respectively – both will feature the sleek, chic style of its existing fleet of three Odyssey-class ships while being slightly bigger. Last, but certainly not least, Silversea is adding Silver Muse to its collection of eight “ultra-luxury” ships, three of which are expedition-class vessels, in 2017.

WHAT SHOULD YOU EXPECT FROM A LUXURY OCEAN CRUISE?

Cruises vary in length from a few days to world cruises lasting up to 16 weeks, with a huge choice of itineraries and destinations in between. And while luxury cruise lines operate ships of different sizes, ages and styles, at the five-star level they all have a few essential features in common. You can expect world-class wining and dining, with a selection of restaurants, highquality, fresh food cooked to order, elegant table settings, a sommelier to advise on wines from

...expect world-class wining and dining, high-quality, fresh food cooked to order, ... wines from an extensive list, and service, service, service.

an extensive list, and service, service, service.

All soft and alcoholic drinks are included throughout the cruise and (in most cases) the in-suite minibar will be stocked according to your taste. The ship will have an impressive collection of artworks in the public areas; it will offer enrichment programs that could include famous guest lecturers and a wide range of classes; the spa will be superb; and there will invariably be a very high crew to guest ratio.

Most suites or staterooms have private balconies (Sea Cloud and SeaDream’s ships are exceptions to this rule) and are appointed with top-quality furniture and soft furnishings, state-of-the-art entertainment systems and fabulous ensuite bathrooms stocked with highend products. The most spacious suites are the most expensive; and butler service is included on most luxury cruise ships.

However, each cruise line and even individual ships offer their own style and atmosphere and it’s important to discuss your tastes and preferences with an experienced agent before you book. For example, if you enjoy a certain level of formality, Crystal Cruises will suit you

better than SeaDream, which prides itself on its “no tie” dress codes and its focus on outdoor living. Similarly, Hapag-Lloyd Cruises’ Europa offers a traditional style of cruising while its sister ship Europa 2 is designed for a younger crowd - it’s one of the few luxury vessels to offer facilities for children.

GOING ASHORE

Wherever you choose to travel, shore excursions are an integral part of the cruise. The options offered by luxury lines are almost limitless and include exclusive behind-the-scenes

tours of palaces, museums and historic sites; adventurous expeditions in helicopters and seaplanes; cuisine- and art-themed outings; and chauffeur-driven trips that you can customise to suit.

Prices for shore excursions vary enormously. Regent Seven Seas includes all shore excursions in its fares, but you can choose an even more in-depth experience for an extra charge. Silversea offers complimentary shore excursions on all its Mediterwranean cruises and again, there’s a selection of for-fee excursions for small groups or individuals.

“Luxury must be comfortable, otherwise it is not luxury.”

COCO CHANEL

WHAT IS THE BEST TIME TO BOOK?

According to all the luxury lines, the earlier you book, the better – both for pricing and to ensure you can secure your preferred suite and shore excursions. Demand is incredibly strong - Seabourn Encore’s maiden voyage in December 2016 sold out within two days of its announcement in March 2015.

Hapag-Lloyd Cruises offers early-bird rates for bookings made up to about 210 days before departure and offers no last-minute deals. SeaDream has “Book Now” promotional rates that increase as the ships fill – but if you

cancel within 120 days of sailing there’s only a US$50 cancellation fee. Guests receive the best fares when they book their next sailing while on board. It’s a similar story at Regent Seven Seas, Seabourn and Silversea – the best advice is to give your contact details to the companies and you will be advised about any special offers.

Some destinations sell out more quickly than others. You have to book at least one year ahead for Silver Whisper’s world cruises and cruises with limited seasonal availability, such as Antarctica and the Kimberley, sell out

FAR MORE IN THE FAR EAST

ASIA 2016 SILVER SHADOW VOYAGES, NOW MORE INCLUSIVE THAN

EVEN FOR THE MOST EXPERIENCED TRAVELLER, ASIA CAN’T FAIL TO FASCINATE.

Here you can still glimpse the truly exotic – water buffalo in rice paddies, jade mountains and white sand beaches. Seeing the Far East has never been easier with Silversea’s seamless packages. An included two-night, pre-cruise hotel stay gives you time to refresh before you step aboard and included shore excursions in every port ensure you’ll see all the key sights.

2016 ASIA VOYAGES OF 9 TO 16 DAYS DEPART THROUGHOUT THE YEAR

Feature voyage: 9–day Treasures of Vietnam Departs 28 Jan 2016. Fares from $5,450 per person.

EXCLUSIVE OFFER

Book any Silversea voyage and Business Class Airfare package between 1 – 31 Oct 2015 and receive your choice of a Luxury Transfer to your closest International Airport or a Duty Free Voucher* when you quote code LTMSILVERSEA2015

quickest. Seabourn says its South America and Australasian sailings have very high international appeal so again, you have to book months in advance.

RIVER OR OCEAN?

Ocean cruising is not for everyone. River cruising, particularly in Europe, is growing at an extraordinary rate (in 2014, according to CLIA Australasia’s latest figures, nearly 80,000 Australians took a river cruise in Europe). It offers an easy way to see several countries in one trip, shore excursions, drinks, meals and gratuities are included in the fare, and river ships are small (140 to 180 passengers) and sociable.

Because of the ships’ size, which is constrained by the width of locks and the height of bridges, they don’t offer nearly as many facilities as luxury ocean ships. However, as more new ships are launched every year, extralarge balcony suites, marble-clad bathrooms and butler service are becoming de rigueur on the top-tier vessels.

The most luxurious river cruise ships are generally considered to be the newest ones

OUR ALL-INCLUSIVE LIFESTYLE

Intimate ships with up to 382 guests

All ocean-view suites, over 85% with private verandas Butler service for every suite

Complimentary wine, Champagne and spirits

In-suite bar with your beverage choices

Open-seating restaurant with menu selections inspired by Relais & Châteaux

A choice of speciality restaurants

Included gratuities

One hour complimentary WiFi daily

Fares are cruise-only, quoted in Australian Dollars, per person, double occupancy, are correct at time of going to print and may rise as the sailing date approaches. Terms & Conditions apply. Contact FBI Travel for full terms and conditions.

EVER

operated by Tauck, Uniworld, Scenic and APT. Tauck and Uniworld are American companies, Scenic is Australian and APT partners with US company AmaWaterways. While each line has its points of difference, they offer similar itineraries in Europe, South-East Asia and, increasingly, in India.

Crystal Cruises is planning to launch its first two river ships in March 2017. The line says the 70-suite vessels will boast a “yacht-like design featuring larger accommodations and space-to-guest ratio than any other river cruise ship”. As Crystal Cruises is a major player in the luxury cruise world, it’s likely its river ships will be a game-changer on Europe’s waterways.

TASTER CRUISES

If you’re tempted but not quite convinced that cruising is for you, why not take a short cruise to see what it’s really like? Alaska is arguably best explored by ship and Crystal Cruises offers a seven-day “Alaska Discovery” voyage from Anchorage to Vancouver, taking in the breath-takingly beautiful Inside Passage, on board the fabulous Crystal Serenity. Departing on June 26, 2016, fares start from US$2,935 (about A$3,316). Call 1800 251 174.

SeaDream has a five-day cruise from

Monte Carlo to Cannes on board SeaDream I, departing on May 30, 2016. It will visit Portofino and Portovenere (for Cinque Terre) in Italy, Saint Florent in Corsica and St Tropez – classic Mediterranean ports. Make the most of the spring weather and the ship’s onboard water sports marina – toys include jetskis, laser sailing dinghies, kayaks and snorkelling

equipment. Fares start from US$3,399 (about A$4,706). Call 02 9958 4444.

Hapag-Lloyd’s “Short and Sweet” four-day cruise on Europa 2 is the perfect introduction to this ultra-stylish, contemporary five-plusstar ship. From Hamburg it will visit the island of Sylt, a favourite with German high society, and the 17th-century coastal town of Kris-

Above: Viceroy suite onboard Uniworld river boat; river cruising with Uniworld.

tiansand in Norway. A day at sea allows you to explore the ship – you’ll be wishing you’d booked for 14 days by the time you return to Hamburg. Fares start from €1,986 (about A$3,163). Call 1300 136 846.

WHO INCLUDES WHAT?

Fares for a true luxury cruise include all meals, alcoholic and soft drinks throughout the ship, gratuities, transfers, onboard entertainment, 24-hour room service and, usually, butler service. However, there are little differences between companies: for example, Silversea and Crystal Cruises charge extra for dining at some of their specialty restaurants, whereas Seabourn’s four specialty restaurants are all complimentary. Hapag-Lloyd Cruises restocks your in-suite minibar daily on Europa and Europa 2 but you pay for drinks with meals and from the bars. WiFi packages also vary from line to line. Silversea will offer free internet access for all guests from January 2016.

River cruises with Uniworld include just about everything, including WiFi, all shore excursions and unlimited beverages - and the line boasts the highest staff-to-guest ratio on the waterways. In 2016, Uniworld is extending its butler service to its entire European fleet.

SYMPHONY CRUISE SAILING TO THE SYMPHONY

In 2016, Sydney Symphony Orchestra (SSO) will perform a series of live performances aboard six departures of APT’s Magnificent Europe river cruise. The 15-day cruises will have a quartet of SSO musicians, who will deliver one-off performances as guests sail through the very places that served as inspiration for many of the compositions, including the Netherlands, Germany, Austria, Slovakia and Hungary. The experience is the first in a series of new Special Events cruises unveiled by APT. Cruises are priced from A$8,495 per person, twin-share, including all meals, complimentary beverages, room service and selected butler service, all sightseeing and entertainment, and transfers, port charges and tipping. A fleet of bicycles will be available on board for guests to use at their leisure. SSO cruises depart during March 2016. aptouring.com.au

Ifive-star experience, there are a few things to avoid. Mega resortstyle ships twhat carry from 2,000 to 6,000 passengers offer a fun holiday with non-stop activities and entertainment, but you won’t find the type of service, dining and accommodation a luxury ship offers. A Pacific island cruise in the height of the summer holidays is probably your worst nightmare. Allinclusive fares are more expensive, but once you’ve paid you won’t be hit for “extras” at every turn, so in fact you’re often getting better value for your money. Talk to an experienced travel agent or directly with the cruise lines we’ve mentioned about what ship or cruise line will suit you best. As the legendary Coco Chanel once said, “Luxury must be comfortable, otherwise it is not luxury.”

WORLD

SAIL THE SEVEN SEAS

Reservations are now open for Silversea Cruises’ 2017 World Cruise, taking in 62 destinations in 25 countries, on a 116-day voyage. Departing San Francisco on the Silver Whisper on 6 January, the ship will take just 382 guests to ports in New Zealand, Bali, Hong Kong, Singapore, India and Greece, before finishing in Monte Carlo on 3 May. Special excursions include a beach party on Boracay Island in the Philippines, an overnight expedition in Shanghai to visit the famous Terracotta Warriors, and a trip through the Pacific Aviation Museum at Pearl Harbour in Hawaii. All-inclusive fares for the cruise start at A$73,150 per person, twin-share. silversea.com

JOURNEY

LUXURY EXPEDITION CRUISING

Since 1966, when Lars-Eric Lindblad founded Lindblad Expeditions with one ship to take travellers to remote outposts previously visited only by scientists, expedition cruising has become a booming business.

Lindblad Expeditions now owns or charters 10 ships around the world and its most recent acquisition, National Geographic Orion, is an elegantly appointed, four-plus-star vessel familiar to many adventure-seeking Australians. After the upcoming season in Antarctica, National Geographic Orion will sail a series of seven-night itineraries in Northern Europe, the Baltic and Mediterranean.

Luxury expedition cruising is a relatively new development in adventure travel – if you want to voyage to the polar regions you can now brave the elements in an ice-class ship that offers all the creature comforts you’d expect in a high-end hotel. Several companies specialise in luxury, or soft-adventure cruising. Their ships are small (accommodating from 50 to 250 guests) so they can travel to exotic destinations that are largely inaccessible to mass-market ships. Onboard expedition teams made up of experts in fields such as marine biology, geography, ornithology, ecology and history lead trips

ashore – often in Zodiacs – and present fascinating lectures about the places you visit.

French line Ponant has four virtually identical ultra-modern expedition ships, built between 2010 and 2015, and operates adventure cruises to all points of the globe. Antarctica is the most sought-after destination, but Ponant also cruises in tropical hot spots such as Latin America, the Caribbean and Africa, where having an onboard pool is a big plus.

Exploring the Amazon is a dream for many travellers and Aqua Expeditions offers the opportunity to make it come true, in considerable style. Its two boutique ships, the 16-suite Aqua Aria, and the newly refurbished, 12-suite Aqua Amazon, sail the Peruvian stretch of the mighty river, a region famed for its extraordinary wild-

Tour the Seas

life. Last year, the company launched the equally luxurious 20-suite Aqua Mekong to cruise the Mekong river between Cambodia and Vietnam.

Freighter cruising is yet another segment of adventure travel that is attracting increasing numbers of people who are looking for a different type of cruise – and who have the luxury of time to take a lengthy sea voyage. Sydney-based company Freighter Expeditions organises an incredible range of trips on cargo ships all over the world and one of the most popular shorter voyages is Aranui III’s 14-day round-trip from Papeete to the Marquesas Islands. Next year, the modern, comfortable Aranui V will replace Aranui III – it will accommodate up to 254 passengers and offer guided shore excursions, an unusual feature for this style of cruising.

In 2016, luxury tour company Ormina Tours will launch joint land and sea itineraries in partnership with Silversea Cruises. The company, which specialises in small group tours, will run 10 matched land and cruise journeys across Europe. Itineraries include the 28-day Turkish Treasures tour and Silversea Istanbul to Venice, with visits to three UNESCO World Heritage-listed sites and a hot air balloon ride over Cappadocia; and the 28-day Highlights of Italy North and Silversea Barcelona to Rome itinerary, which incudes an excursion to the Monaco Grand Prix. orminatours.com

Above: Aqua Amazon by expedition crusie company, Aqua Expeditions.

THE ROYAL RAIL

CHANNELLING THE GRAND DAYS OF THE RAJ, Annika S. Hipple RIDES THE RAILS ON A LUXURY JOURNEY THROUGH RAJASTHAN.

You know you’re on no ordinary rail journey when your arrival at a remote station is greeted by a brass band clad in pristine white, with colourful waistbands and trailing turbans. But aboard India’s Palace on Wheels, such royal treatment is a standard part of the experience.

A luxury train designed to evoke the days

of old, when maharajahs travelled in private carriages, the Palace on Wheels is one of the best ways to visit the far-flung attractions of Rajasthan, where distances are great and roads often mediocre. Each of the train’s 14 saloons is named after a Rajput state, with decor to match, and each has its own saloon captain and assistant who provide princely service to their guests (four cabins with twin beds per saloon).

The musical greeting on arrival at remote rail stations in India onboard the Palace on Wheels.

The week-long journey officially begins in Delhi, though my group boards on day two in Jaipur, capital of Rajasthan, known as the Pink City because of its salmon-coloured stone buildings. Upon arrival at the station, we were escorted to our luxurious cabins, with twin beds and a private bathroom. Space was extremely limited, but the beds were comfortable, and I slept much better than expected as we travelled between destinations at night.

Nevertheless, it soon became clear that the highlight of the Palace on Wheels is not the facilities, but the service. Our saloon captain,

Devendra Pal and his assistant, Gopal are gracious and attentive, anticipating our needs and responding quickly to any issues. Each morning, they serve us breakfast in the lounge area at one end of the saloon, bringing eggs, sausages, fruit, juice and coffee to fuel us for the day’s sightseeing.

Our first stop after Jaipur is Ranthambore National Park, where we set off early in jeeps in search of the park’s famous tigers. Although the big cats remain elusive, we spot two types of deer, as well as a variety of birds and a colony of langur monkeys.

What lingers most is the charm and courtesy of the staff, and the experience of waking up each morning in a new location steeped in history, colour, and splendour.

Above left to right: Musical accompaniments on the journey; langur monkeys at Ranthamambore National Park; colourful scenes at Jaipur. Opposite page: the bar onboard Palace on Wheels.

WHO DO YOU THINK OFFERS THE BEST IN LUXURY TRAVEL?

VOTE NOW FOR YOUR CHANCE TO WIN A LUXURY STAY FOR TWO AT SAFFIRE FREYCINET, TASMANIA

Voting is now open for the annual Luxury Travel magazine Gold List Awards 2016. Each year we ask you to tell us about your preferred luxury travel hotels, resorts, cruises, airlines, rail journeys, travel professionals and much more. Visit luxurytravelmag.com.au/goldlist2016, fill out the survey and you could win two nights’ accommodation for you and a guest in a private pavilion at Saffire Freycinet in Tasmania. Valued at $7,000, the prize includes all meals, mini bar, and Saffire complimentary experiences, plus a Schouten Island signature experience for two and luxury car hire for the duration of your stay*.

Saffire Freycinet is an intimate sanctuary on Tasmania’s East Coast that delivers sophisticated coastal style. Discreetly positioned overlooking the Hazards Mountains, Freycinet Peninsula and the pristine waters of Great Oyster Bay, Saffire blends mankind and nature with breathtaking beauty. Featuring 20 luxurious suites, exclusive day spa, restaurant, guest lounge and bar, this experience is a celebration of the art of service, internal and external wellbeing, local culinary delights, ancient landscapes and abundant wildlife. saffire-freycinet.com.au

Then it’s back to the train for lunch. Unlike breakfast, lunch and dinner are served in the elegant dining cars, Maharajah and Maharani. Turbaned waiters circle bearing trays of Indian and international dishes served family style. Before dinner, guests gather for drinks in the bar saloon, where there is a television with international news. The train also has a spa car, though with a full program of sightseeing, I have no time to check it out.

From Ranthambhore, we wind our way southwest, stopping at Chittorgarh, home to a historic hill fort besieged and abandoned in the 16th century, and Udaipur, a lakefront city with palaces that seem to float on the water. Then it is on to the far west, to Jaisalmer, where the golden colour of the fort and its intricately carved havelis (mansions) matches the sands of the surrounding Thar Desert. At Jodhpur, where the brass band serenades our arrival, the sweeping view from the fort encompasses the many azure houses that give the city its nickname, the Blue City.

Back in the east, we disembark at Bharatpur to visit the Keoladeo National Park bird sanctuary. We see parakeets, storks, cranes, spoonbills, snakebird and, herons as we tour around by bicycle rickshaw. Afterwards, our fellow travellers continue on to Agra Fort and the Taj Mahal before a final night en route back to Delhi. For my group, however, it is time to say goodbye to the Palace on Wheels and make our own way to Agra. Among the kaleidoscope of impressions from the journey, what lingers most is the charm and courtesy of the staff, the festive welcome at the stations, and the experience of waking up each morning in a new location steeped in the history, colour, and splendour that make Rajasthan such a fascinating region of India.

100 YEARS OF TRAVERSING THE TRANS-SIBERIAN

In 2016, the Trans-Siberian Railway line will be commemorating 100 years since its official opening. The longest single service railway in the world (9,288km), it was opened in stages between 1891 and 1916. In addition to its existing classic journey, Golden Eagle Luxury Trains is offering two Trans-Siberian routes to mark this milestone, both of which will include a complimentary upgrade to the Ritz-Carlton Moscow and special celebrations during the journey. The 15-day Trans-Siberian Discovery will retrace the first continuous railroad through Russia’s interior between Moscow and Vladivostok, with two days at the ‘Pearl of Siberia’, Lake Baikal, and a private folk performance in a local village. The trip will run 26 July-9 August 2016, and is priced from US$16,995 (about A$23,000) per person, twin-share. goldeneagleluxurytrains.com

National Geographic Expeditions has released a new journey through the Canadian Rocky Mountains in 2016. The seven-day Canadian Rockies by Rail and Trail will journey along the border between Alberta and British Colombia aboard the Rocky Mountaineer. Guests will take excursions into the Jasper and Banff National Parks with a National Geographic expert, trek across Athabasca Glacier and cruise Maligne Lake in Jasper National Park, staying at historic lakeside hotels along the way. The first departure date will be 27 June-3 July 2016 and is priced from US$8,295 (about A$11,265) per person, twin-share. nationalgeographicexpeditions.com

INDIA

l GETTING THERE

Air India flies direct to Delhi from Sydney and Melbourne. Return economy fares start from A$1,224 and from $7,670 on executive class. Total flying time from Sydney is 12 hours and 35 minutes. airindia.in

l THE JOURNEY

Palace on Wheels (and its Royal Rajasthan on Wheels itinerary) is a seven-night, eight-day trip that runs year-round. Rates for a double cabin start from US$4,482 (about A$6,118) per person excluding taxes and surcharge. Rate includes accommodation, all meals, guided sightseeing, entrance fees for palaces and cultural entertainment. palacetours.com

NEW JOURNEY ROCKY RAIL

CHITTORGARH KHAJURAHO

SAWAI MADHOPUR Rajasthan India

VARANASI

Katrina Holden CHANNELS HER INNER MOVIE STAR AT THE WHEEL OF A FERRARI CALIFORNIA T CONVERTIBLE ON A WEEKEND VISIT TO THE BEAUTIFUL HUNTER VALLEY WINE REGION.

It’s the colour i notice first as I slide behind the wheel of the convertible Ferrari California T for a leisurely two-hour drive from Sydney to the Hunter Valley. The car’s California Rosso colour (an optional $20,500 special paint) has a subdued maroon tint that catches the sunlight, reflecting magenta sparkles from its glossy exterior. I’m naively relieved it isn’t blood-red, hoping to attract less attention. However, people smile, wave, admire – one man gives a thumbs-up. This is a Ferrari, after all, designed to stand out from the pack.

Before long, I’m hitting my stride in this luxury sports car, supremely comfortable in the beige tradizione leather interior, roof down on a beautiful winter’s day. The ‘prancing horse’ guides me effortlessly along the freeway in sports mode, and I become ever more at ease with the 3.8L twin turbo V8 engine power of this burgundy-coloured beast beneath my fingers. I have a cream pashmina draped around my face and neck, although I hardly need

it for warmth, as even though it is winter, the heated seats and the low-set design create a cocoon-like effect. However, the scarf stays as I imagine myself a vintage movie star, perhaps from California, out touring on the weekend.

The LED navigation display tracks our course. Our destination: Hermitage Road in Australia’s oldest wine region, the Hunter Valley. We're booked in for lunch at Restaurant Botanica at luxury getaway Spicers Vineyards Estate. Driving into the tranquil heart of vineyards and country estates, I shift the car into ‘comfort’ mode so as not to disrupt the serenity.

Arriving, we tuck the Ferrari safely away, with the help of the rear parking sensors, and settle in for lunch. Botanica’s natural interiors are warm, inviting and cosy, the large windows giving views of the vines and the dramatic escarpments of the Brokenback Mountains. As restaurant manager Clare seats us, I’m more than ready to relax and sample the modern European creations of head chef Josh Duncan.

Botanica sources many herbs and vegetables from its own kitchen

Driving into the tranquil heart of vineyards and country estates, I shift the car into ‘comfort mode’ so as not to disrupt the serenity.

This page, clockwise from above left: Vanilla sabayon at Restaurant Botanica at Spicers Vineyards Estate; ‘prancing horse’ in front of Restaurant Botanica; cruising the Hunter. Opposite page, clockwise from top left: A welcome glass of red; behind the wheel in the Ferrari California T; cauliflower amuse buche at Botanica; sunset on Hermitage Road.

garden. After a serve of the housemade sourdough bread (a traditional recipe from San Francisco using organic stone flours), it’s time for our entrée. The Chef’s Garden salad (made from a collection of organic root spring vegetables and globe artichoke) resembles a bouquet of flowers, a bursting rainbow of colour and flavour.

The wine list is curated by Belinda and Mark Stapleton, (managing director and director/ executive chef, respectively) who manage both the restaurant and accommodation to the standard for which the Spicers Retreats are renowned. The wine list is naturally made up of some of the Hunter’s best vignerons including Tyrrell’s, Thomas Wines, Scarborough and Brokenwood. From their own vines, Spicers also make a small batch of house wines utilising some

of the region’s best winemakers.

Our mains follow, herb-roasted lamb rump and duck breast with white bean jus. They have a hearty appeal. For dessert, we cannot go past the milk chocolate, parfait, coffee, orange and fudge, artfully presented (as is the vanilla sabayon with cocoa and buttermilk) on a tiny tower of kiwi and strawberries.

Chatting with Josh Duncan as other patrons head outside to play

bocce on the lawn, I remark there’s a refinement to his cuisine where despite the wintery ingredients, you’re not overwhelmed. “There’s a fundamental lightness to my technique,” he explains. “That’s why we’re here, to challenge ourselves.” Previously, Josh has worked at the renowned Burj Al Arab and at Jumeirah Emirates Towers in Dubai, at two Michelinstarred St Hubertus in Italy, and as

l FAST FACTS

FERRARI CALIFORNIA T

Price: A$409,888 factory standard; to A$549,387 with all optional extras

Engine: 90-degree direct fuel injection V8

Maximum power: 412KW (560cv) @7500 rpm

Transmission: F1 dual-clutch 7-speed transmission

Consumption: 10.5L/100 kilometres

0 to 100km/h: 3.6 seconds

head chef at One&Only Hayman Island. With his family based in nearby Nelson Bay and with a new baby, he loves being close to home, with the opportunity to carve his own niche at the restaurant.

For a full weekend, an overnight stay at Spicers puts you among the best cellar doors in the Hunter Valley. If you want to give the Ferrari a well-earned rest, Spicers can organise a personalised and private wine tour.

However, after your drive, you might prefer to relax with a treatment at onsite Spa Anise – or just unwind by the fireplace in the luxury spa suites.

SPICERS VINEYARDS ESTATE l STAY HERE

Rates start from A$459 per night including complimentary wine on arrival and a gourmet breakfast. spicersretreats.com/ spicers-vineyards-estate

The jewel in the crown of glorious Tropical North Queensland

Alamanda Palm Cove by Lancemore provides the best of all that Tropical North Queensland has to offer. When you stay at Alamanda Palm Cove by Lancemore, the days are sun-drenched and dreamy with the sand literally at your doorstep. The nights are long and languid and, with arguably the region’s best restaurant and day spa onsite, all the ingredients are at hand for some guaranteed relaxation in the sun. Offering the best of both worlds, Alamanda Palm Cove by Lancemore is great for families too, ranking as Australia’s third Best Family Property in the 2015 Luxury Travel Gold List Awards. Whether its romance, adventure, or a family retreat, enjoy the elegant simplicity of this beachside haven with all the comforts of modern living, offering up everything that you need for your next escape.

HIGH FLYER

LUXURY TRAVEL MAGAZINE SHOWS YOU HOW TO FLY FLAT ON POINTS + ALL THE LATEST AIRLINE NEWS + WE REVIEW TWO BUSINESS CLASS FLIGHTS.

ONEWORLD NEW CATHAY PACIFIC PREMIUM LOUNGES

Cathay Pacific has opened a new lounge at Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi Airport and reopened its flagship The Pier First Class Lounge in Hong Kong. The Bangkok lounge has seating for about 140 people and accommodates first and business class passengers.

The refurbished 231-capacity lounge at The Pier is for first class passengers. It has complimentary foot massage services, eight-day suites with daybeds, a dining room with made-to-order food, a library and a lounge bar. cathaypacific.com

LUFTHANSA BUSINESS MENU

LOUNGE UPGRADE

Etihad Airways has refurbished its first and business class lounge at Abu Dhabi Airport. Open 24 hours, the 134-guest capacity lounge features shower rooms, children’s playroom and complimentary WiFi. The dining area encompasses Etihad Airways’ signature food and beverage service with the option of

restaurant or buffet dining. The lounge also has a Six Senses Spa, which has been completely refurbished and now offers a complimentary 15-minute spa session prior to flying. The premium lounge is open to first and business class guests flying with Etihad Airways, as well as loyalty members of partner airlines. etihad.com

PREMIUM SKIES

Premium economy will be available on Air New Zealand’s TransTasman, Pacific Island and Bali services as of 25 October 2015. All Boeing 777 and 787-9 Dreamliner services will have the seats which won the Skytrax World Airline Award for World’s Best Premium Economy Class in June. In addition to extra space, passengers booking premium economy can expect premium food, additional baggage allowance, priority check-in and boarding. airnz.com.au

ufthansa is rolling out its new inflight business class restaurant service on long-haul flights. Designed to simulate restaurant service, flight attendants welcome guests on board by name, take orders and set the table with ceramic crockery. Meals are served on plates, replacing trays and flight trolleys. The program will see a higher ratio of crew to passengers, with one flight attendant for every eight passengers in business class. lufthansa.com STAR

ALLIANCE SWISS TO INTRODUCE NEW JET WITH UPDATED CABINS

Switzerland’s national airline SWISS will be adding nine new Boeing 777-300ERs to its fleet in January 2016, with each providing eight first class seats, 62 in business class and 270 in economy. With new cabin interiors by design house PriestmanGoode, features include private suites in first class and twometre-long lie-flat seats in business. First class will have 32-inch monitors (the largest in the industry), electronic window blinds and personal wardrobes. The new aircraft will also have wireless internet. swiss.com

VIRGIN EXPANDS BUSINESS OFFERING

Virgin Australia’s new Airbus A330 ‘The Business’ experience will be available on its Airbus A330 fleet from the end of October 2015. The new suites have the world’s longest and widest fully lie-flat bed in domestic business class; a 1-2-1 seating configuration that enables 100 per cent direct aisle access for all passengers; a turndown service with memory foam mattress toppers; and a restaurant-style, hand-delivered fine-dining experience, allowing passengers to dine when they want. The cabins will have the world’s first Nespresso by B/E Aerospace machines, designed to overcome the challenges of making coffee at altitude. Virgin is expected to launch its new Boeing 777 long-haul business class service to Los Angeles and Abu Dhabi in late 2015. virginaustralia.com

Fly flat on points

SYDNEY/MELBOURNE TO HONG KONG - BUSINESS CLASS (ONE-WAY)

ONEWORLD EXPANDED LUXURY FOR QANTAS BRISBANE LOUNGE

Qantas has announced a multimilliondollar refurbishment of its terminal and lounges at Brisbane Airport. A new Business and Chairman’s Lounge will be constructed, along with expansion of the domestic terminal by 30 per cent and a redesign of the current Qantas Club. The existing First and Business lounges in the International Terminal will be altered into one lounge, with the aim to increase the amount of space for passengers to dine and relax in pre-flight. Work is expected to start late 2015, with a staged completion in 2016 and early 2017. qantas.com.au

ALITALIA NEW BUSINESS CLASS

Alitalia, the national airline of Italy, has launched a new business class cabin to coincide with its new livery and brand design. Features include refurbished business class seats upholstered in Italian leather by furniture maker Poltrona Frau. A Dine Anytime service is now offered, serving Italian cuisine by hand, when requested by the passenger. A turn-down service is available on all Airbus A330 and Boeing 777 flights, with fully lie-flat seats and a pre-arranged wake-up breakfast time. Alitalia operates in partnership with Etihad Airways. alitalia.com

SKYTEAM

THE CABIN

The Business Class layout has been refurbed from 30 seats in a 2-2-2 layout to 28 arranged in a roomier 1-2-1. To accommodate the changes Qantas has moved a forward lavatory to the back of the cabin, narrowed the aisles and reduced the galley areas. Staff lose, but we gain a comfier space with every seat having either a window or direct aisle access.

COMFORT

The new Business Suites, designed in collaboration with Marc Newson, feature a bonanza of workspace and storage. Seat width varies between 58 centimetres and 61 centimetres depending on where you are in the cabin, but all convert into a comfortable two metre fully flat bed, which lies low to avoid glare from your neighbours’

AIRLINE: QANTAS

FLIGHT: QF52

AIRCRAFT: AIRBUS A330-300

ROUTE: SINGAPORE TO BRISBANE

SEATING: BUSINESS CLASS

FARE: A$3,494 RETURN

FLIGHT TIME: 7 HOURS 5 MINUTES

nocturnal activities. The game changer? A detachable sash component on the belt allowing you to partially recline during taxi, take-off and landing, while a specially designed mattress can stay under your rear for the entire flight. The Oroton amenity kit doesn’t hurt, either.

SERVICE

Typical Qantas — efficient, genial, egalitarian, unobtrusive — but

toss-up between toasted muesli and baked spinach and eggs. The ever-changing wine selection is inspired, as always.

ENTERTAINMENT

Panasonic supplies the entire entertainment system and it’s a doozy: the 16-inch high resolution touchscreen is bright, accurate and responsive, with impressive viewing angles on which to watch a stack of films and television shows, or play games. Noise-cancelling headphones and a remote control are provided for when you want to recline.

BAGGAGE

Business Class passengers are allowed to bring up to two pieces each weighing a generous 40 kilograms, with extra tiers of allowance for Qantas Club members and the different grades of Frequent Flyer. Privileges include dedicated check-in and access to the new Qantas Singapore Lounge.

LOYALTY PROGRAM

with that extra polish of business class. It’s a winning combination. This was the refurbished plane’s first night flight, so the first for this crew, and they hardly missed a beat.

MEALS

The Neil Perry designed supper menu is quality comfort food — think bowls of beef pho, chicken rendang, king prawns and grilled artichokes — while breakfast is a

A Qantas Frequent Flyer membership (A$89.50 to join) gives you earning access to the ever faithful oneworld alliance, which includes British Airways, Japan Airlines, American Airlines and Cathay Pacific, as well as individual partnerships with Emirates, Alitalia, China Eastern and others.

DEPARTURES

The flight departed 15 minutes late but surfed a tail wind to touch down well ahead of schedule. qantas.com.au

THE CABIN

I chose to fly with Cathay Pacific during a recent visit to Macau. Offering 70 non-stop flights a week from Australia to Hong Kong, including four flights daily between Sydney and Hong Kong, the airline has an extensive network throughout Asia with its sister airline, Dragonair. That translates into 720 flights a week to 25 destinations in China and Taiwan as well as daily connections to the UK and Europe. The airline’s new slogan is ‘Life Well Travelled’, which is being injected into the in-flight experience on the A330 aircraft; as well as on the ground with additions such as the new The Arrival premium lounge at Hong Kong International Airport where

AIRLINE:

FLIGHT:

AIRCRAFT:

ROUTE:

SEATING: BUSINESS CLASS

FARE: ABOUT A$3,999

FLIGHT TIME: ABOUT NINE HOURS, 45 MINUTES.

you can shower and grab a snack before heading onwards.

COMFORT

The seats are very comfortable. The armrest drops down to make the seat more roomy and less confined when going to sleep. The fully lie-flat bed is just over two metres long.

SERVICE

The service is excellent, always friendly and attentive. I was offered assistance with my carryon, and attended to until they were sure I was settled into my seat and didn’t need anything else. At check-in, I was asked which seat I would like and given the best available.

MEALS

The business lounge in Hong Kong, The Bridge, had plenty of good food to choose from. Breakfast on the plane was sufficient, but nothing special. There was a good range of beverages with a special selection of wines from the Loire Valley available in business class on all long-haul and Middle East flights.

ENTERTAINMENT

Each seat has a 15.4-inch touchscreen with audio and video on demand. Passengers are also provided with noisecancelling headsets. You can connect your electronic devices to the entertainment system to stream your own content, as well as charge your mobile device.

BAGGAGE

Business class has a standard baggage allowance of 30 kilograms, with no limit on the number of pieces.

LOYALTY PROGRAM

Cathay Pacific uses the Asia Miles loyalty program, which enables members to collect and redeem points through various airlines, hotels, rental car companies, and retail and dining outlets. I was asked about my frequent flyer status during check-in and they assisted in finding my account.

DEPARTURES

The flight left 50 minutes later than its scheduled 7:30am departure.

cathaypacific.com

DRIVE LIKE JAMES BOND: LUXURY SPORTS CAR RENTALS / ON MARINE SAFARI AT GROOTBOS, SOUTH AFRICA / SKI PERFECT POWDER IN NISEKO, JAPAN / TEE OFF ON THE 10 BEST GOLF COURSES IN EUROPE / THRILL TO THE POLO IN NEW YORK / CYCLE THE BACKROADS OF MAINE, USA / KICKBOXING IN THAILAND

SHIFT INTO 007 GEAR

Daniel Craig in Scotland in Skyfall (2012).

SCOTLAND

Whether you’re a fan of James Bond movies, exotic cars or great drives, this package ticks all the boxes.

The McKinlay Kidd travel company offers a three-day package including rental of an Aston Martin DB9, two nights in a five-star hotel with dinner, a martinimaking course, a speedboat ride and a guided castle tour. Collect the car from Edinburgh, drive approximately three hours northwest through Glencoe, where some of the final scenes in Skyfall were filmed (a note: the castles that were “blown up” in the film weren’t there in the first place); and ar-

rive at the Isle of Eriska Hotel (accessed via a rickety bridge) near the west-coast town of Oban. Simply put the address in the car’s navigation, or the trip organiser can suggest bespoke routes to get you to the island hotel.

Once there, you can explore the local region in the Aston Martin before returning the car in Edinburgh at the end of your three-day jaunt. In the middle of the visit is a speedboat trip to Duart Castle, which takes about half a day and leaves from the hotel wharf.

The stay includes free use of the hotel golf course and driving range, gym, sauna, steam room and swimming pool. Massage and beauty treatments are available at an extra charge.

Prices range from £$1,285 to £1,465 (about A$2,681$3,057) per person, depending on the season, two-person minimum. The price includes one designated driver for the car - an extra charge if two drivers are nominated. seescotlanddifferently.co.uk/luxury-aston-martin-weekend/

Joshua Dowling SHOWS YOU HOW TO RENT A LUXURY SPORTS CAR IN AUSTRALIA AND ABROAD THAT WILL SEE YOU DRIVING IN TRUE JAMES BOND STYLE.

MASERATI GRANTURISMO SPORT JAGUAR F-TYPE

ASTON MARTIN DB9

Top tips when renting a supercar USA

there are dozens of operators in the us with super-luxury cars, but for peace of mind our first choice would be rental giant Enterprise, which has a dedicated exotic car division, the biggest range and the most number of outlets.

Enterprise has 21 sportscar rental sites in six states - from Los Angeles to Las Vegas to Miami, although most are in California, which is ideal as you’ll be able to pick up a car in LA and drive up the iconic Pacific Coast Highway and drop the car in San Francisco (there is however an additional oneway destination charge, as is normal with rental companies).

On the route (best done over two or more days, so there is no rush) be sure to plan a three-hour stop at the halfway point between LA and San Francisco to visit Hearst Castle (hearstcastle.org) near San Simeon. The property, formerly owned by media tycoon William Randolph Hearst, includes many treasured artworks and a pool with gold-plated tiles.

Enterprise has 33 sports cars, 25 luxury sedans and 16 top-end SUVs from which to choose. There are, of course, cars James Bond would approve of such as the Jaguar F-Type and XKR convertibles, a Bentley Continental GT, or a BMW 640i (Bond drove a BMW in GoldenEye and Tomorrow Never Dies).

Enterprise even has on its books the aptly named Ferrari California T (now Ferrari’s biggest selling V8), a Lamborghini Huracan (the Italian brand’s latest V10 model) a Maserati GranTur-

ismo, and a choice of the Porsche 911 or Boxster. If you want to experience Americana while in the US, there is a choice of iconic domestic sports cars such as the Chevrolet Corvette Stingray, Chevrolet Camaro and the Ford Mustang GT (although the latter two are available at most big rental outlets). Prices are not listed online for these vehicles; you need to fill out an online application form or call Enterprise’s US toll-free number (866-4-LUXCAR).

exoticcars.enterprise.com/Vehicle

AUSTRALIA

the opportunities to rent a supercar in Australia are few and far between, and many operators come and go. Most offer only guided tours, so you’re driving in a convoy of half-a-dozen or so vehicles.

Ultimate Car Rentals is located near Sydney airport and has a good selection of sports cars including a Ferrari 458 Italia, an Audi R8, a Maserati and a Lamborghini Gallardo LP550, among others. Charges peak at about $3,000 per day, and there is a one-day minimum. That fee includes insurance. There is a minimum driver age between 23 and 30 years, depending on the car, a driver administration fee (A$25), and an excess-kilometres charge above 150km a day. And before you get the keys to the top-end machinery, you need to leave a security bond (from A$2,000 to $20,000), which is refunded within two weeks of the car’s safe return. ultimaterentals.com.au

(or any car for that matter).

1 / Check the insurance excess. If it’s sky-high, budget on paying an extra fee (before driving off) that will lower the excess or eliminate it altogether in the event of a claim. Be aware: some rental companies charge the customer a claim excess whether they are at fault or not.

2 / Check the car inside and out. Take note of any marks and dents, including the wheels. Take photos of the front, back and sides of the car before driving off. Also check roof and bonnet. If in doubt, get the rental desk to note any marks previously unnoticed.

3 / Take time to get familiar with the car. If it’s a supercar, better to ease your way into it and familiarise yourself with the controls - Ferrari indicators, for example, are switches on the steering wheel. Request an emergency contact number in case you get stranded or the car breaks down.

4 Enjoy the ride.

A JOURNEY FOR YOU!

Executive Edge Travel + Events and Luxury Travel magazine have partnered to create the ultimate Peru luxury itinerary.

Have you ever put down a travel article and gazed off into the distance thinking: “I’d like to take that exact trip”?

Luxury Travel and Executive Edge Travel + Events have merged reading about a destination and actually EXPERIENCING that exact itinerary with a new concept called Travel The Way We Do.

Check out the editorial article ‘Follow the Amazon to its Source’ from the July issue of Luxury Travel magazine, detailing a three-week journey to Peru

featuring a culinary tour of Lima, trekking to Machu Picchu with Mountain Lodges of Peru, cruising the Amazon with Delfin, Sacred Valley, Cusco, Lake Titicaca and more - inclusive of all the crème de la crème travel experiences that Executive Edge has privileged access to. The itinerary can be booked exactly as is or customised to suit your travel interests.

Read the full, 22-day Peru Itinerary at:

http://www.luxurytravelmag.com.au/Peru22Days

EXECUTIVE EDGE TRAVEL + EVENTS

YOUR GUIDE TO LUXURY TRAVEL

As a multi-award winning Virtuoso agency, we deliver bespoke service for the international experiential leisure traveller as well as corporate travel for small to mid-size businesses. We hold invitation-only memberships with Virtuoso, Belmond Bellini Club, Dorchester Collection Diamond Club, Four Seasons Preferred Partners, Jumeirah Passport to Luxury, Mandarin Oriental Fan Club, Peninsula PenClub and Starwood Luxury Privileges.

WIN A THREE-NIGHT STAY AT GOLDEN DOOR, HUNTER VALLEY,

VALUED AT $2,040.

Designed to recharge your batteries, Golden Door’s three-night Motivate for Change Program allows you to set some goals to implement when you return home and give you a motivational boost to achieve them. Combining exercise, relaxation, massage and nutritious, low-fat cuisine, this mid-week short break allows you to slow down your mind and take a break from the treadmill of life. The Golden Door team will help guide you in creating a program to encourage positive change to initiate during your stay and continue at home.

YOUR PACKAGE INCLUDES:

l Luxury one bedroom villa accommodation

l Personal wellness assessment on arrival

l Nutritious, low-fat cuisine

l A diverse selection of group fitness activities and relaxation and mind-body classes

l Daily program of health education seminars and workshops

l One luxurious spa treatment in the world-class spa, with your choice of a facial à la carte or Swedish massages (package inclusions can be upgraded if preferred)

l Use of all facilities including steam room, spa bath and relaxation lounges, 25-metre indoor heated lap pool, outdoor resort pool, floodlit tennis courts, fully equipped gymnasium, indoor and outdoor activity studios, and outdoor relaxation areas

l One wellness consultation with your choice of: wellness coaching, meditation, yoga or standard personal training session (package inclusions can be upgraded if preferred)

l The program commences every Sunday, with departure on Wednesday.

ROMANCE IN STYLE

If you are planning a romantic getaway or a honeymoon vacation, a stylish escape to The Nam Hai Hoi An awaits. Set in the heart of Vietnam’s most vibrant and culturally rich destination, this award-winning resort is a sanctuary spread over 35 hectares of tropical gardens while your villa is a private retreat amidst the romantic setting.

LAVISH YOUR PARTNER WITH AN UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCE. ROMANCE IN STYLE FROM USD590.

Conditions apply

Package highlights: Return airport transfer from/to Danang International Airport | Deutz champagne upon arrival | Private barbecue dinner for two | Romantic love bath ceremony for two | Special honeymoon amenities and souvenir

* Additional Club Benefits for Pool Villa bookings

For full details or enquiries, please call our Reservation Team +84 510 394 0000 or email at reservations@thenamhai.com

When you think about an African safari, what springs to mind is driving a Land Rover around the veldt with a guide and tracker, looking for lions, elephants and giraffes. However, Grootbos offers a different kind of adventure experience altogether: a marine safari. Grootbos means “big forest” in Afrikaans, and this five-star eco lodge in the hills above Walker Bay, a two-hour drive south of Cape Town, is indeed set in a forest

of fynbos (shrubland vegetation) and ancient milkwood trees. These gnarled trees can live for more than 1,000 years and their crooked branches extend every which way with long mossy beards blowing in the wind, making it somewhat surreal to walk from your suite to the main lodge at night.

This is the place to experience the marine Big 5 – whales, dolphins, great white sharks, penguins and seals. Gansbaai is one of the few places in the world that can offer this extensive range of marine wildlife in one place and Grootbos is situated right on its doorstep.

THE SOUTH AFRICAN EXPERIENCE AT THE GROOTBOS ECO-LUXE LODGE FEATURES

SPECTACULAR WILD SURROUNDS, SUSTAINABLY PRODUCED FOOD, WINE TOURS AND A MARINE SAFARI –WITH A GREAT WHITE SHARK ENCOUNTER THE HIGHLIGHT FOR Gary Allen.

The resort partners with a local oceanguiding company whose comfortable boats ferry you out to meet these magnificent “locals”. I had never seen so many whales in one outing – mothers and calves, and so much breaching.

Top of my must-do list in South Africa was to see a great white shark up-close with a cage dive. The shark cage company makes sure that the experience has the least impact on the sharks and although I was a little nervous at first, once I was in the water getting my first view of these beautiful animals, it was exhilarating. They seemed so peaceful as they glided by the cage, definitely not the ugly man-eat-

ers they are portrayed as in the media. It was a highlight of my trip, without doubt. Grootbos is actually two lodges in one.

The Forest Lodge is more for couples with its 16 freestanding suites with fireplaces and heated bathroom floors. All have panoramic views of Walker Bay from their decks – and also from the spacious beds and bathtubs. It’s tough to tear yourself away from watching the waves roll in and whales blow in the bay. The Garden Lodge has 11 freestanding suites and is easier for families, with a children’s playroom near reception and the petting zoo and horse stables close by. If you have a big group or family, take the ultra-luxurious villa – with

six suites, it caters for 12 guests. There is a private pool, plus your own private butler, guide and chef. The walls are adorned with an art collection featuring the works of South African painters such as William Kentridge and Walter Meyer.

The food is of a high standard and the staff genuine and welcoming. Guests can choose from a range of activities that are all included in the room rate. Horseriding, guided nature walks, 4WD flower safaris, guided coastal and cave tours are just a few of the adventures on offer. Take a tour to the Overberg wine region for some of that famous South African wine. Or the lodge can simply give you a

Above left: Gary Allen crosses off one of his mustdo lists – swimming with great white sharks.

Top: A pod of whales, mothers and their calves.

Opposite page: Whale watching from the shore in style with champagne and canapes.

Top of my must-do list in South Africa was to see a great white shark up-close with a cage dive. Although I was a little nervous at first, once I was in the water getting my first view of these beautiful animals, it was exhilarating. They seemed so peaceful as they glided by the cage.

South Africa

ride down to the beach for a walk, collecting you later. The weather won’t stop you enjoying the spectacular outdoors as the lodge provides ponchos with warm liners, and blankets during a horse ride or a 4WD trip.

Grootbos is a staunch advocate of responsible tourism, which involves sustainability and social responsibility. The resort grows as much produce as possible and keeps free-range chickens and other livestock for guest consumption – the food is guaranteed to be fresh. The beehives produce a pure honey that is some of the best I have ever tasted.

Michael Lutzeyer, CEO, part-owner

and founder of Grootbos, is passionate about responsible tourism. The non-profit Grootbos Foundation was established in 2003 to run the resort’s environmental and social-development programs. The conservation trust presently owns approximately 2,500 hectares of unspoiled land and various social programs help the local population with education and sports activities.

The Green Futures project was established in 2003. It runs a Horticulture & Life Skills College training up to 12 unemployed young locals each year. Some of the graduates go on to become Grootbos resort employees.

PORT ELIZABETH CAPE TOWN GROOTBOS

ZIMBABWE MOZAMBIQUE COCKTAILS ON THE DECK BED WITH A VIEW

WALKER BAY SUNSET OUT IN THE FYNBOS

GROOTBOS

l GETTING THERE

Qantas flies direct daily from Sydney to Johannesburg. Codeshare partners operate daily flights from Perth. Return economy fares from A$1,744 (Sydney) and business class from A$4,599. Flight time is about 11 hours. qantas.com.au Connecting daily flights to Cape Town are via SAA. Return economy fares are priced from ZAR3050 (about A$322). Flight time is about two hours. flysaa.com

l STAY HERE

High season at Grootbos is from September to April. Whale-watching season is July to December. Prices range from ZAR2,790 (about A$294) to ZAR5,170 (about A$545) per person, twin share, and include all meals and selected adventures. grootbos.com

MICHAEL LUTZEYER CEO, PART-OWNER & FOUNDER OF GROOTBOS

Why did you form the foundation?

The foundation’s focus is on conserving the amazing biodiversity of the Walker Bay region, as well as skills development within the local community through our Green Futures conservation initiatives, Football Foundation sport development and Siyakhula social enterprise program. You’ll find more information at grootbosfoundation.org

How does a Grootbos guest contribute to the foundation and development of the local community? There’s a local unemployment rate of 50 per cent. Grootbos creates 127 jobs, providing employment to the local community. It supports the foundation (which creates a further 24 permanent jobs) strategically by providing board leadership and connection to key donors; and tactically by buying produce from the Growing the Future organic farm, which supplies the lodge with herbs, vegetables, organic eggs and honey; by buying plants from the Green Futures nursery for landscaping on Grootbos; and by supporting the foundation through its enterprise development initiatives, which include a candle-making enterprise and bottling water for the resort. In this way, Grootbos helps the foundation to be self-sufficient, decreasing its need for donor funding. A guest can support the foundation by planting a tree, buying a product such as our Field Guide or honey, or by making a direct donation.

What are the biggest threats to the Walker Bay region? Grootbos is situated in an area of exceptional biodiversity, with 765 plants identified on Grootbos alone (six of them new to science). The main threats to biodiversity are agriculture, invasive plants and development. All of our projects have an environmental education component and we try to educate the Grootbos guests with regard to the value of the fynbos by taking them for flower safaris, walks and horse rides and excursions to caves to teach them about the local history.

Grootbos was one of the founding members of the Walker Bay Fynbos Conservancy (WBFC) in 1999, and works with a group of 23 landowners,

covering 13,928ha to achieve common conservation goals by looking at fire management and alien vegetation control holistically. We are working with the WBFC, Agulhas Biodiversity Initiative and Department of Environmental Affairs to clear our area of alien vegetation, and are currently in our second year of a threeyear clearing project, which creates 24 to 48 job opportunities within the local communities and supports between four and seven local contractors, depending on funds available.

Who visits at Grootbos and what feedback do you receive? The majority of Grootbos guests are international travellers who want to experience responsible tourism.

What’s next for the Grootbos Foundation? We are rolling out a food-security project, which will create 120 to 200 home gardens, enabling our local community to grow their own food, improve nutrition and gain access to betterquality organic vegetables. We will also be setting up a community garden with a training/ enterprise development centre to train the home gardeners how to grow their own vegetables for sale. Phase 2 of the project will focus on further entrepreneurial training. This year will also see the expansion of our organic honey production and the launch of a new range of personal product made with Grootbos honey and fynbos oils.

GROOTBOS LODGE

BAR AT THE LODGE

Meet South Africa Meet South Africa

Go to www.southafrica.net Go to www.southafrica.net

in the very heart of cape town, the historic hotel Belmond Mount Nelson is a pretty-inpink oasis. Built by shipping magnate Sir Donald Currie, who owned the Union-Castle Line, to accommodate his company’s firstclass passengers, the hotel opened in 1899. Throughout the decades, the likes of Sir Winston Churchill, Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, Rudyard Kipling, the Dalai Lama and Oprah Winfrey have stayed here. Although Mount Nelson showcases its rich history and old-world glamour, the comprehensive luxury facilities and customer service are decidedly contemporary.

The elegantly decorated Planet Restaurant features an entrance gilded in crystal balls, galaxythemed carpets and a planetary chandelier. Chef Rudi Liebenberg has created a menu incorporating the freshest local ingredients, and guests wishing to enjoy a more interactive culinary experience can reserve the Chef’s Table.

For breakfast and lunch, head to the Oasis Bistro on the sunsoaked terrace. And be sure not

THE PINK LADY

to miss the Belmond’s famous afternoon tea, which can be taken either in the lounge, on the terrace, or around the fountain amongst the rambling gardens.

In the historic Garden Cottage suites, next to the secluded Cottage Pool, guests can ensure peace and privacy with a king-sized, fourposter bed, marble bathroom and

mini library. The Presidential Suite features similar luxury amenities plus a balcony with breathtaking views across to Table Mountain.

Interior designer Graham Viney has decorated the suite in soft hues and luxurious silk fabrics, 1930s light fittings with baccarat crystal and an original desk that dates back to the hotel’s opening.

Belmond Mount Nelson is surrounded by a diverse array of cultural attractions such as Kloof and Long Streets, with their busy markets, restaurants and bars. The pedestrian avenue of Museum Mile is the spot for museums and art galleries. Those looking to explore Cape Town further can choose one of the hotel’s specialised itineraries. The adventure itinerary includes a hike up Table Mountain, a powerboat tour, and a close (but nonetheless safe) encounter with a great white shark. Other itineraries focus on culture, history, local townships, shopping, wine or sport.

The hotel’s Librisa Spa offers signature treatments designed to balance energy. Visitors can relax before or after treatments in the Finnish sauna, steam bath and plunge pool – or just unwind in the tranquil conservatory.

BELMOND MOUNT NELSON l

STAY HERE

Garden Cottage Suite rates start from ZAR 17,165 (about A$1,806) per night. belmond.com/ mount-nelson-hotel-cape-town/

Travel the way we do.

Can you picture yourself on any of the journeys you have read about in this issue? Visit our website to book a Luxury Travel magazine bespoke itinerary to destinations like India, South Africa, Monaco and Norfolk Island.

We have partnered with preferred destination specialists to create tailored itineraries, with authentic experiences for the luxury traveller who chooses to Travel the way we do.

THE WHITE STUFF

KNEE-DEEP IN CHAMPAGNE POWDER, BUT AVOIDING THE CROWDS, Rob McFarland DISCOVERS A MORE SELECT STYLE OF SKIING IN JAPAN’S NISEKO VILLAGE.

with prodigious amounts of snow, affordable lift tickets and only a two-hour time difference, it’s no wonder Niseko’s Hirafu has become the darling of the Australian ski set. Every year this Japanese resort receives a deluge of Aussie skiers that’s only surpassed by the region’s legendary annual snowfall – up to 18 metres – earning it the rather unflattering nickname of “Perisher with chopsticks”.

Yet, here I am in the delightful Sisam Japanese Restaurant, feasting on grilled scallops with truffle sauce, surrounded almost entirely by well-heeled Japanese.

The reason? For a start, I’m not in Hirafu. I’m in Niseko Village, a more exclusive resort on the same mountain - Mount Annupuri - with just three properties and a handful of high-end restaurants and bars. It attracts an altogether more dis-

cerning clientele who come here for fine dining and ski-in/ski-out convenience, not fast food and sake shots. The other factor is I’m here in March. Most Australians visit in January when, according to my guide, “four out of five days are powder days”. March is more of a gamble as far as snowfall, but the payoffs are fewer tourists, shorter lines and a much more authentically Japanese experience.

Niseko Village offers three accommodation options: the imposing 506-room Hilton, the more discreet 200-room Green Leaf and Kasara’s range of swish three-bedroom townhouses. From the outside the Hilton looks like the love child of a grain silo and a missile launcher, but inside it’s a welcoming haven of Japanese courtesy with a foyer featuring a suspended fireplace. It has seven

restaurants, ranging from casual buffets to fine-dining options such as Sisam, which specialises in omakase tasting menus, and Rera, a sushi counter where chefs prepare delicate seafood morsels to order.

The Green Leaf is lower-key, with just one restaurant and an intimate lounge bar where you can sip cocktails on a burnished chesterfield in front of a flickering fire. Both have the sort of bigproperty facilities you’d expect such as spas and gyms, but it’s the outdoor onsens that are the crowdpleasers. If anyone’s found a better way of relaxing after a day on the slopes than watching the sunset from a steaming 40C geothermalfed pool, let me know.

Kasara is the new kid on the block. Ideal for larger groups, each of its eight two-storey townhouses has three luxuriously

Aficionados rate Japan’s snow as among the best in the world... While I could wax lyrical about the grin-inducing high of skiing knee-deep through champagne powder, all I’ll say is it feels so good, it should be illegal.

GREEN LEAF NISEKO VILLAGE

HILTON NISEKO VILLAGE

appointed bedrooms with designer bathrooms plus a fully-equipped kitchen and a spacious lounge and dining area.

However, let’s face it, you don’t go skiing just to hang out in your hotel room all day. Aficionados rate Japan’s snow as among the best in the world, but does it really live up to the hype? While I could wax lyrical about the grin-inducing high of skiing knee-deep through champagne powder, all I’ll say is it feels so good, it should be illegal.

Niseko’s four resorts are all connected, so irrespective where you stay you’ve got access to some 70 runs spread across 887 hectares. Beginner and intermediate runs make up roughly 70 per cent of the terrain, but an innovative program means advanced skiers can tackle more extreme slopes once they’ve taken an avalanche safety course.

There’s a good variety of runs, from wide, sweeping groomers to narrow, snaking, tree-lined chutes. Boarders are well looked after with several terrain parks and there are two areas specifically for kids.

As far as the weather goes, don’t come expecting brochureblue skies. The rule in Niseko is if it’s not already snowing, it will be soon. The good news is the weather

NISEKO VILLAGE

l GETTING THERE

Japan Airlines flies to Sapporo from Sydney via Tokyo. Return economy fares are priced from A$1,071 and return business class fares are priced from A$5,265. Flying time is about 13 hours, 15 minutes, including stopover. au.jal.com

Niseko is then a two- to three-hour drive (about 110 kilometres) from New Chitose Airport.

fronts come in from Siberia so the snow is so light and dry it blows off your hand. When the skies do occasionally clear you’ll be greeted by the mesmerising sight of Mount Yotei, a 1,900 metre-high, snowcapped, dormant volcano, which has Mount Fuji-like symmetry.

While there are enough dining options in Niseko Village to satisfy most palates, it’s worth venturing

l STAY HERE

Hilton Niseko Village

Rates start from Y29,130 (about A$319). hilton.com

Green Leaf Niseko Village

Rates start from Y18,612 (about A$204). thegreenleafhotel.com

Kasara

Townhouses start from Y173,376 (about A$1901). kasara.com/nisekovillage/

into the nearby resort of Hirafu at least once during your visit. It’s an easy 15-minute trip by free shuttle bus, and you’ll find the usual ski town mismatch of fast food joints and dive bars.

However, more sophisticated options do exist, one of them being Barn, a sexy, upscale Manhattanstyle restaurant and cocktail bar with an impressive two-storey glass frontage. For more traditional fare, try Michelin-starred Kamimura, which specialises in a fusion of French and Japanese.

For a nightcap with a difference, make sure you check out Bar Gyu. Enter through an oldfashioned fridge door, order a dangerously more-ish Bailey’s Irish Cream-infused hot chocolate and soak up the ambience of this quirky drinking den. Now, you couldn’t do that in Perisher.

KASARA KASARA

BAR GYU

BAR GYU

Established in 1924, Oslo Golf Club is the oldest in Norway. Between 2007 and 2009, the course underwent a total revamp by Steve Forrest, including the construction of greens, tees, fairway surfaces and drainage systems according to USGA specifications. The result is a championship-quality, par-71 design of 6,340 metres, which features plenty of elevation changes with water coming into play on several holes. oslogk.no

“You will not find a golf course like this anywhere else on the planet,” says course designer Gary Player about his stunning layout framed by rugged coastal cliffs and the vast blue of the Black Sea. The 302-metre par-4 7th sums up what Thracian Cliffs is all about. The men’s regular tee is a small island in the Black Sea, and a carry of nearly 170 metres is required to reach the fairway. The best approach is to aim at the bunker on the left-hand side of the fairway. Once safely there, a precise short iron second is required to the elevated green. thraciancliffs.com

As you turn off the A90 north of Aberdeen, glimpses of shaggy-topped dunes provide a tantalising appetiser for these traditional Scottish links on a modern scale. Right from the par-5 opening hole, you are thrust into an imposing landscape of the world’s largest dunes. One of the highlights is the par-4 14th and the unforgettable sight of a rumpled fairway twisting its way through towering dunes alongside the crashing waves of the North Sea. trumpgolfscotland.com

With its undulating fairways, impressive dunes and a multitude of heath areas, Germany’s only authentic 18-hole links course is a captivating experience. A classic hole is the 391-metre, par-4 14th, with pot bunkers left and right. Be bold and you’ll be rewarded with a short iron second shot to a green that nestles in the dunes with picturesque views over the Wattenmeer and neighbouring islands of Föhr and Amrum. gc-budersand.de

l BULGARIA THRACIAN CLIFFS

l GERMANY GOLFCLUB BUNDERSAND

l NORWAY OSLO GOLF CLUB

l SCOTLAND TRUMP INTERNATIONAL GOLF LINKS

PAR-3 – OSLO GOLF CLUB

HOLE 7: PAR-4, 302 METRES – THRACIAN CLIFFS

HOLE 14: PAR-4, 391 METRES – GOLFCLUB BUDERSAND

AERIAL VIEW OF TRUMP INTERNATIONAL GOLF LINKS

GOLFCLUB BUDERSAND

BRIAN MORGAN

From the moment you drive through the gates of Bro Hof Slott and glimpse the white castle, manicured fairways and glistening Lake Mälaren, you know you’re in a special place. “Everything is big at Bro Hof. The holes are longer, the greens are bigger, the course

has more water and the bunkers are larger and well-placed,” says Robert Trent Jones Jr, who designed this superb lakeside layout with state-of-the-art facilities. Only open for play since 2007, Bro Hof Slott’s Stadium Course is now a world top 100 golf course and hosts the Nordea Masters European Tour event. brohofslott.se

Designed by Kyle Phillips of Kingsbarns and The Grove fame, this 6,092m track presents a stern test with superbly manicured greens, roller-coaster fairways, meandering water hazards and regular elevation changes, producing a truly

memorable golf experience. After playing your approach shot through a cut in the rocks, at the par-5 1st, take a few moments to appreciate the setting. The emerald green is on the same level as a snow-capped mountain range in the distance creating one of the most spectacular vistas in Austrian golf. eichenheim.at

l SWEDEN BRO HOF SLOTT

l AUSTRIA GOLFPLATZ EICHENHEIM

HOLE 11: PAR-4 – GOLFPLATZ EICHENHEIM

SLIGO (ROSSES POINT)

Established in 1894, the present links were redesigned by Harry Colt in 1927, and continuous improvements have been made over the years to make the layout, in the words of BBC golf commentator Peter Alliss: “a tremendous test for the highestquality player and great fun for the modest competitor.” The signature hole is the par-4 17th, a long dog-leg left where the second shot must be hit up a hill to a difficult green that slopes severely from the back. A par here is as rare as an unfriendly Irishman. countysligogolfclub.ie

PORTUGAL

PRAIA D’ EL REY

This Cabell B. Robinson-designed golf course is arguably one of the most spectacular in Europe. After the tighter, pine-lined fairways of the opening nine, the layout opens up and heads towards the pummelling Atlantic, offering all the elements of a Scottish or Irish links, but with warmer weather. Bold, deep bunkers, undulating greens, and natural sand areas contrast sharply with lush green fairways, making it a complete golfing challenge.

praia-del-rey.com

Sited in the south of Sicily, Donnafugata is aimed at the established golfer looking to play two different styles of course at one luxury resort. The first is a Franco Piras-designed links course routed around a couple of lakes in open rolling terrain near the Mediterranean; and the second 18 is a Gary Playerdesigned parkland course winding through a landscape dotted with olive, pine and carob trees. donnafugatagolfresort.com

Designed by Robert Von Hagge, Gran Canaria’s impeccably maintained, desert-style PGA championship course, set amid rocky canyons and teeming waterfalls, offers a perfect contrast to the surrounding volcanic mountains. Anfi Tauro is one of those rare courses that generate a genuine sense of awe from one hole to the next. One of the most photogenic holes is the classic 209-metre, par-3 6th, framed on either side with swaying palms and a pyramid-shaped rock, with the crystalline Atlantic as a backdrop. anfi.com

l ITALY DONNAFUGATA GOLF RESORT & SPA

l SPAIN ANFI TAURO

l IRELAND COUNTY

l

PRAIA D’EL REY IS ONE OF THE MOST SPECTACULAR COURSES IN EUROPE

HOLE 6: PAR-3 – ANFI TAURO

PAUL MARSHALL GRAN CANARIA GOLF

MAIN EVENT

YOUR PREMIUM ACCESS TO SPORTING AND CULTURAL EVENTS, EXPERIENCES AND FESTIVALS.

There’s a longstanding tradition of escape from New York City during the warmer months. As temperatures soar, heat waves regularly cause brown-outs and the city clears as locals flee east to the Hamptons and Montauk, west to California, or across the Atlantic to the Mediterranean. However, although the city is best-known for ice-skating in Central Park or Christmas shopping at Bergdorf Goodman, the spring-summer season – with fewer crowds and down-tempo atmosphere – is also a great time to visit.

Where for the most part, the NYC nightlife happens indoors – in dingy rock’n’roll bars on the Lower East Side or historic bistros on the Upper East, for example – during the warmer months, bars pop up everywhere outdoors, a case of freer licensing regulation and

savvy entrepreneurs. In Midtown, where the city has most recently experienced its greatest revival (iconic tourist attractions such as Times Square are still on the itinerary of most visitors, but there’s much more to do, so long as you know how to find it), rooftop and patio bars, such as in the new Baccarat Hotel and SixtyFive Bar at the Rainbow Room atop the Rockefeller Center, are the ticket to afternoon cocktails with the added comfort of a breeze to stir the humid air.

One event in particular sways New Yorkers and visitors alike to trade the crowded, traffic-riddled Jitney for a five-minute cruise across the Hudson River: the Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic. Although located in New Jersey in Liberty State Park, the site of the annual event boasts an unrivalled view of

the Statue of Liberty, one of the polo’s many draw cards. And given that the tournament is for charity –in 2015 the event again supported City Harvest, a non-profit organisation helping feed New York’s homeless – the competitive adrenaline that pervades a regular sporting event is replaced with a relaxed, joyous spirit.

To be clear, this isn’t the Melbourne Cup, nor is it Royal Ascot. Dress code strictness doesn’t stem beyond a suggestion to wear a summer dress or a linen suit; the event attracts little more than 7,000 guests, meaning that packed grandstands are eschewed in lieu of blankets on the grass and picnic lunches on the outdoor tables; and, given the event’s namesake sponsor, there’s not a beer or white wine in sight –this is a distinctly bubbly affair,

l POLO

VEUVE CLICQUOT POLO CLASSIC, NEW YORK, 4 June, 2016

with Veuve Clicquot champagne keeping guests – this year included actresses Diane Kruger, Freida Pinto, Emma Roberts and Maggie Gyllenhaal, model Andreja Pejic, and musicians Leigh Lezark and 50 Cent – well hydrated throughout the afternoon.

Like haute couture, the champagne descriptor is reserved for houses in France (specifically from the Champagne region), and since its foundation in 1772 by Philippe Clicquot-Muiron, Veuve has been a leader in the field. In 1805, after the death of her husband (Francois, son of Philippe), Madame Clicquot, the “Grande Dame of Champagne”, took control of the house and greatly expanded its global reach. Veuve Clicquot became extremely popular with various royal courts and legend has it that during the Napoleonic Wars, Madame Clicquot circumvented the Russian blockade – enforced

by the Prussian Guard - to ship champagne to the Tsarist court. The Prussians, bribed with champagne, apparently developed the practice of “sabring” - opening the bottles with their swords.

In perhaps a hangover from the Prohibition era, Americans tend to favour hard liquor over wine, but given Veuve Clicquot’s reasonably accessible price and global branding efforts such as the polo and its annual Business Woman Award, and instantly recognisable yellow

packaging, the US has become the house’s biggest world market, followed not far behind by Australia. There’s no sabring at the polo, but you are invited to join in the tradition of stomping the divots at half-time.

The Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic will be held on 4 June, 2016, with general admission tickets beginning at $65*, including transportation to and from Manhattan and New Jersey, access to champagne bars, merchandise tents and gourmet food trucks. Early Access tickets ($125*) include first ferry (from Manhattan) transportation and fast-pass line privileges. Rose Garden tickets ($500*) also include one bottle of Veuve Clicquot rose champagne, dedicated seating and other benefits. The Standard Hotel is the official hotel partner for Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic. veuveclicquot. tumblr.com/vcpoloclassic#tickets

VEUVE CLICQUOT POLO CLASSIC, NEW YORK

l GETTING THERE

Qantas Airways flies twice daily to New York via Los Angeles. Return economy fares (June 2016) start from A$1,656; business from A$8,779. qantas.com

l WHERE TO STAY

The Standard Hotel’s Highline property offers accommodation packages as part of the Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic. standardhotels.com/high-line

mitchell oakley smith

l BALLET

THE AUSTRALIAN BALLET AT QUALIA

The Australian Ballet will perform at luxury Hamilton Island resort, qualia in September 2016 for an intimate weekend performance of Pas de Deux in Paradise. Two outdoor performances will be scheduled for just 140 guests who will have the opportunity to go behind the scenes of The Australian Ballet. qualia.com.au/events/australia-ballet

When: Friday 23 – Sunday 25 September, 2016. Where: qualia, Hamilton Island, Queensland.

Price: Two-night all-inclusive packages start from A$3,800 per person, twin share. Includes: Welcome champagne and canapés with chance to meet the dancers and Australian Ballet artistic director; a ballet class rehearsal preview; behind-the-scenes insight hosted by Catriona Rowntree; black-tie Pas de Deux in Paradise performance and dinner; transfers.

A GOURMET ESCAPE TO MARGARET RIVER

Margaret River Gourmet Escape, presented by Audi,  is a premium three-day food and wine festival in Western Australia’s Margaret River region, with a series of gourmet events hosted by the world’s top Michelin-star chefs (six of whom feature on the S.Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurant List). Guests are treated to dishes created by chefs such as David Thompson, Enrique Olvera, Gaggan Anand and Tetsuya Wakuda, as well as given opportunities to learn about WA wines, beer and produce from local and visiting wine talent and winemakers. Luxury bespoke agent ExperienceSmith is offering day trips from Perth; transfers to Margaret

River by private jet and private chauffer to your chosen Gourmet Escape event. The three-day trip packages to choose from include; An International Cabernet Celebration at Cape Mentelle (Friday 20 Nov); Audi Gourmet Beach BBQ (Fri 20, Sat 21 & Sun 22); Fraser Gallop Sundown Soiree (Sat 21); and Audi Leeuwin Platinum Lounge (Sat 21 & Sun 22). A minimum of four guests are required for the private jet day-trips. Prices start from A$1,200 per person. gourmetescape.com.au

When: 20-22 November, 2015.

Where: Margaret River, Western Australia.

l TENNIS

WIMBLEDON 2016

Guests to the quintessentially British Wimbledon tennis championships can enjoy VIP hospitality with these special packages through exclusivegp. During their chosen stay, guests will be seated in the highly prized Debenture area, Centre Court, which now features a retractable roof. exclusivegp.com

When: 5-10 July, 2016.

Where: The All England Lawn Tennis and Croquet Club, London.

Price: from £2,350 to £5,995 (about $5,152A$13,142) per person for the five-star hotel packages. Includes: Two nights luxury accommodation; VIP hospitality at The Wimbledon Club; return Rolls-Royce transfers on match day; Centre Court tickets, à la carte menu and wines; afternoon tea at the Wimbledon Club.

Art Basel is the premier international art fair for art collectors and galleries, with fairs held annually in Basel, Hong Kong and Miami Beach. The 2015 Miami Beach fair will feature a large selection of galleries from the Americas, Europe, Asia and Africa. Concierge Services Miami has partnered with the event as the official VIP concierge of Art Basel, and can assist with

luxury home rentals, private travel, premier entertainment planning and onsite VIP services to personalise the Art Basel experience for its clients. artbasel.com/miami-beach; conciergeservicesmiami.com/ ArtBaselConcierge

When: 3–6 December 2015

Where: 1901 Convention Center Drive, Miami, Florida, USA

ON A FIVE-DAY LUXURY CYCLING TOUR, Larry Olmsted DISCOVERS THE HIDDEN BEAUTIES OF THE NORTH-EASTERNMOST STATE IN THE USA.

cadillac mountain summit, the first spot in the eastern United States from which you can see the sun rise (between October and March), is a popular morning destination. But the 360-degree views are stunning at any time. We arrive in the afternoon, after another decadent lunch provided by our guides, Amanda and Mariah. Most visitors drive the steep 5.6km road, climbing over 450 metres, but we do it the hard way, standing over our pedals, fighting to turn the cranks, and wishing we had skipped that second – or third –cookie, that was too good to resist.

Every day of our Backroads Maine cycling trip we choose from two or three different routes. It’s Day 2, and seven out of the 20 cyclists on our tour, have opted for the challenge of the week’s biggest climb. Panting a collective sigh of relief, we dismount at the top to admire the view. Far below sits the

too-charming-to-believe village of Bar Harbor, and the rocky islands and blue waters that have made the rugged Maine coast one of the country’s most popular summer destinations for more than a century.

Amanda is waiting back at the base of the mountain with the Backroads van, a four-wheeled

friend we see again and again, prowling the roads in case a rider has a flat tyre, appearing like a white knight whenever water bottles get low. She offers snacks, directions for finishing the day’s ride (74km) into Bar Harbor, and expert dinner suggestions. Most meals are included – at top-notch eateries – but tonight is open, and

she recommends local favourite, the Side Street Cafe, for ultra-rich lobster macaroni and cheese.

Backroads leads trips in nearly 50 countries, from Cuba to Bhutan, but the main secret to its success is its guides’ local knowledge. Amanda was raised on Mount Desert Island, this gorgeous chunk of earth that is home to Bar Harbor and Acadia National Park, the oldest east of the Mississippi.

There are so many reasons to visit Maine, but Mount Desert Island, or MDI to the locals, is one of three standouts. Acadia has an extensive, century-old, 80km network of carriage trail, built by philanthropist John D Rockefeller Jr. These are a cyclist’s delight, carfree, edged in granite and featuring 17 stone bridges. Bar Harbor is an entirely walkable coastal town, full of shops, restaurants bars and craft breweries, with sightseeing cruises from its harbour. We stay

Above: On the carriage trails of Acadia National Park. Below: Camden, Maine.

the first two nights at the town’s finest lodging, the West Street Hotel, overlooking Frenchman Bay with great views from the rooftop pool, the only one in Maine.

Maine’s two other signatures are its postcard-perfect fishing villages and Maine lobster. As integral to the local fabric as pizza is to Naples or wine to Burgundy, lobster is everywhere here – even in the ice-cream. On our third night, Backroads hosts a cocktail hour with a local fisherman to educate us on all things lobster. Our very first meal of the trip is a lobster roll, the most common local offering: chunks of meat tossed with butter and mayonnaise on a bun.

Our group first comes together in Portland, Maine’s largest city, and we are driven to Northeast Harbor, a tiny fishing village. The third Backroads staffer, behindthe-scenes miracle worker Susan, has prepared an oceanfront lobster

roll picnic and as we eat our guides fit out the bikes. Backroads provides titanium models custommade in Europe to company founder Tom Hale’s specifications.

Backroads is the oldest luxury active travel outfitter in the United States (1979) and over four decades, Hale has honed every detail, including the bikes, guides

and vans. Every group, no matter how small, gets two vans and three guides. It works, and more than half the participants are repeat guests.

After lunch, we enjoy a 27km warm-up along beautiful Somes Sound, often described as the East Coast’s only fjord, into Bar Harbor.

After our adventures in Acadia National Park, the Day 3 options (34km to 56km) all finish in Camden, perhaps the most scenic of Maine’s many beautiful coastal towns. Many of what were once the homes of sea captains are now upscale inns, Camden now being a summer hub for the yachting set.

We stay two nights at Camden Harbour Inn, a Relais & Châteaux property, which is also home to Natalie’s restaurant, renowned for its five-course lobster tasting menu. However, tonight’s dinner is at Primo, the most desirable reservation in Maine. Truly farm-to-table, Primo boasts its

LUXURY MEETS LUXURY

Ormina Tours and Silversea Cruises partner to create joint itineraries on both land and sea.

Featuring Silversea’s Istanbul to Venice cruise, followed by Ormina Tours’ Highlights of Italy North itinerary.

Departing from Istanbul, enjoy 11 days at sea on your luxury five-star Silver Spirit Ship. Disembark in Venice for 14 days in exquisite four and five-star hotels as you

experience the best Northern Italy has to offer with Ormina Tours’ Highlights of Italy North.

Departing 15 July 2016

Visit www.orminatours.com to see the full list of itineraries.

Email info@orminatours.com for more information or to request a brochure.

As integral to the local fabric as pizza is to Naples... lobster is everywhere here – even in ice-cream.

Above: Another beautiful day on the bikes.

USA/Maine

Prices start from US$2,898 (about A$3,923) per person, twin-share; or US$3,928 (about A$5,317) for single-occupancy, including accommodations, most meals, all special events, bicycle and equipment. Activity level: Active (2-4 on 1-5 scale). backroads.com

The World’s Top Luxury Cycling Tour Operators

BACKROADS

America’s largest and oldest luxury active travel operator, with 2,500 trips in 2014. Signature strengths are guides and top choices for restaurants. backroads.com

BUTTERFIELD & ROBINSON

Considered the inventor of luxury cycling trips, this family-owned Canadian company has been at it since 1966 and remains the gold standard. With trips globally, it is known for excellence in France and Italy. Signatures include painstakingly chosen small luxury hotels (often with complete takeovers for its groups), and lots of private tours, experiences and cooking classes in addition to cycling. butterfield.com

AUDLEY TRAVEL

The UK operator recently opened a US subsidiary and customises trips for every client. Besides cycling, it offers a full range of active travel such as safaris. audleytravel.com

GRAY & CO.

DAY 1

Start in Portland (shuttle to Northeast Harbor before lunch).

Ride Northeast Harbor to Bar Harbor (27km).

DAY 2 Acadia National Park Carriage Road Loops (45km or 62km) with Cadillac Mountain option (74km).

own sustainable farm (vegetable garden, pigs, poultry) and contracts local fishermen. Asking about the chicken, one of my fellow cyclists is told, “It was walking yesterday –you will never find fresher.”

We work the calories off on Day 4 with the longest (71km) option, including a lunch stop (lobster club sandwich) and visit to the Farnsworth Art Museum in Rockland, before a farewell dinner at Natalie’s.

DAY 3 Shuttle to Belfast. Belfast to Camden routes (34km, 43km or 56km).

DAY 4 Camden Rockland Loops (43km-71km).

Our final day features an easy scenic 29km post-breakfast (lobster benedict) loop around a pristine lake before we board the shuttle back to Portland. Guests swap tales of Backroads trips past and rave about the week’s scenery and food. Including the very best available dining in every trip is a company trademark, so much so, that many repeat guests have nicknamed it “Snackroads”.

DAY 5 Lake Megunticook Loop (29km). Shuttle to Portland or Portland Airport.

PORTLAND, MAINE

l GETTING THERE

Qantas flies to Dallas Fort Worth direct from Sydney. Return economy fares are priced from A$1,600 and return business class from A$6,500. Flying time is about 15 hours, 35 minutes. qantas.com.au

From Dallas Fort Worth, domestic flights to Portland, Maine, can be booked through most US carriers and take about five to six hours, including stopover.

Striving for “six-star” service aimed at the private jet set, this boutique Canadian specialist does only 100 per cent bespoke trips, with no catalogue or scheduled departures, moving its stable of expert guides around the world with clients. Because most customers have been on bike trips to hot spots such as Tuscany and Burgundy, Gray & Co. specialises in finding less-known destinations with excellent road conditions and sights, such as South America, Texas, Mallorca, Ireland and Tasmania. grayandco.ca

TREK TRAVEL

This offshoot of bicycle-maker Trek offers a full array of luxury trips to expected destinations, but excels at long itineraries such as the annual, fully supported, 45-day Portland to Portland ride across the US, and longer Tour de France routes. The company – not surprisingly – provides guests with high-end current-model Trek bicycles. trektravel.com

THE CLASSIC PREMIERE INNS MAINE BIKE TOUR / 5 DAYS, 4 NIGHTS

BAR HARBOR

BELFAST

PORTLAND

CAMDEN

ROCKLAND

Cicada Lodge has been designed for the traveller looking for an “experience-of-a-lifetime,” in the heart of Australia’s Timeless North, Nitmiluk National Park. A sanctuary of elegant comfort, just 29kms from the historic township of Katherine, the Lodge provides a level of excellence in accommodation, service and dining.

Cicada Lodge Bed & Breakfast only $495 twin share. Includes accommodation, personal meet and greet on arrival, continental breakfast and sunset drinks and canapés. Please quote ‘Luxury Traveller’ at time of booking for a complimentary upgrade to a full cooked gourmet breakfast.

*Terms & Conditions: Rate provided is based on twin share room. Valid from 31 August 2015 - 31 December 2015.

Phone: 1800 242 232 Call now to book your next adventure! www.cicadalodge.com.au

“Jab, jab, uppercut, knee, elbow, elbow, kick, kick, knee, knee, jab, jab, punch!” yells my instructor. I’m breaking a good sweat in the Thai humidity and get a well-deserved break for a minute before resuming my Muay Thai workout at Four Seasons Koh Samui. I look out from the ring at the sparkling ocean, which will definitely be my next stop.

Story by GARY ALLEN

active travel is a growing trend, whether trekking, cycling, swimming, fitness or health and wellness. Rest and relaxation is all very well, but for many “flop and drop” doesn’t work like it used to. I love my food and at Four Seasons I look forward to every meal. So I need to work out and the Muay Thai program is perfect.

In Thailand, Muay Thai kick boxing is centuries old and the national sport. Known as “Art of Eight Limbs” – it uses fists, feet, elbows and knees – Muay Thai is real fighting and, for me, has more art than boxing. Like any sport, there is much to learn. The Four Seasons Koh Samui program is an opportunity to train with a professional and get a great workout. So the Four Seasons ticks all the boxes: on an exotic island in a beautiful country, luxury accommodation, great food, an amazing spa, and discovering a new form of fitness. It’s my form of meditation and yoga combined. I work out with the trainer in the morning, have a massage specifically designed to ease all the aches and pains from the workout, then a relaxing lunch at the beach.

My day starts with breakfast by 7.30, then I head down to the boxing ring to warm up. Andy, my trainer, is there already. He is not the retired Thai fighter I was expecting. He’s ex British Special Forces, 30-something, built like a tank, and a former professional Muay Thai fighter. We warm up jumping rope and doing push-ups and abdominal exercises. It’s warm and humid, and I am soon dripping sweat. Andy gets me to do some boxing, checking my form. Slowly he introduces new techniques such as spinning with elbows, and combination punches with elbows. One or two minutes’ practice, then a much-needed brief rest. We talk technique while I go through the motions, slowly at first then quicker. It’s harder than I thought with a lot of switching feet position to throw a

left or right elbow or fist. We work on the new moves for the rest of the 90-minute session.

When it’s over I go straight to a recovery spa session. My masseuse ensures the muscles I used will be ready for tomorrow’s session. Later in the afternoon, I return to the ring to practise my technique and do some rope jumping and exercises before dinner. The food is amazing –healthy and tasty, it certainly helps my recovery.

Next morning, I’m ready to hit it again. I tell Andy I want to leave with a few combinations I can perfect. We begin warm-up exercises together. They’re difficult, but I push through. More new moves and combinations follow. The 90 minutes flies by and once more I’m drenched in sweat. During our short rest breaks Andy tells me about his fighting career. It’s fascinating to hear the amount of training these fighters do and the amount of respect they have for their opponents. It can be brutal – I have bruising on my forearms and shins –but Andy says this is typical and that if I continue to train after I return home, the pain will go. We finish and I am exhausted and ready for a swim. My afternoon session is weight training and after 45 minutes we go to the ring for some more technique work. Soon I am exhausted all over again but it hurts so good!

KOH SAMUI

l GETTING THERE

Thai Airways flies from Sydney, Perth, Brisbane and Melbourne to Koh Samui via Bangkok. Return economy fares are priced from A$1,032 and return business class from A$3,574. thaiairways.com

l STAY HERE

Three-night Muay Thai package rates (including accommodation, transfers, training, massage and breakfast – plus a visit to Chaweng to see a Muay Thai competition) start from THB 39,900 (about A$1,532). fourseasons.com

TRAINER ANDY

THE WRITER & THE FIGHTER

Pure Royale

TOUR ANTHOLOGY

LUXURY TOUR NEWS.

EXPANSION EXPLORE SOUTH AMERICA ANDBEYOND

Journeys by Private Jet is a set of exclusive itineraries from luxury tour company Captain’s Choice, launching in 2016. Guests will travel aboard a newly refurbished private Boeing 767 jet, which has 90 all-business class seats. The Equatorial Explorer journey is the first to depart on 23 August, and runs to 13 September 2016. Guests will journey from London to Sydney with stopovers in the Azores, Cuba, Antigua, Panama Canal, the Amazon River, Galapagos Islands, Easter Island and Tahiti. Excursions include discovering Havana in a private classic car and a cruise of the Panama Canal. Itinerary rates start at A$47,500 per person, twin-share. captainschoice.com.au

Luxury experiential travel company andBeyond has expanded its portfolio into South America, providing services for travellers to Chile and Argentina, with additional offices due to open in Peru and Ecuador in 2016. The company now operates on three continents, with tours and luxury eco-lodges available in Africa and South Asia. andbeyond.com

NEW JOURNEY SILK ROAD TRIP

Abercrombie & Kent (A&K) has launched a new small-group journey taking in the remote sights of Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan in Central Asia. With no more than 24 guests on the two-week trip, attractions include some of the ancient trade routes linking cities such as Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva. Guests will tour the ancient civilisations of the Silk Road, with A&K managing director Sujata Raman leading the excursions. The Ancient Trade Routes of Central Asia tour runs 21 May to 4 June 2016, and is priced at A$10,995 per person, twin-share. abercrombiekent.com.au

NEW PRIVATE JET TOUR PRIVATE SKY

& south america

all the adventure all the amenities antarctica

Complimentary in-suite bar stocked with your preferences

• Complimentary open bars throughout the ship

Complimentary fine wines poured at lunch and dinner

Spacious all-suite accommodations

• Complimentary welcome champagne

• Tipping is neither required nor expected

• Award-winning gourmet dining

BALMY BEACHES, NATURAL BEAUTY & FRIENDLY LOCALS IN SEYCHELLES & MAURITIUS / FUN FOR THE WHOLE FAMILY IN FIJI / WE EXPERIENCE STYLE UP CLOSE IN SWITZERLAND / MINDFUL MOMENTS AT A WELLNESS

RETREAT IN THE HUNTER VALLEY / THE EVOLUTION OF A FIVE-STAR HOTEL GROUP PLUS LIVING THE SUITE LIFE - LUXURY SUITE REVIEWS FROM AROUND THE WORLD.

INDIAN OCEAN IDYLL

IN MAURITIUS AND SEYCHELLES, Gary Allen REVIEWS FOUR LUXURY RESORTS THAT EACH OFFER AN ABUNDANCE OF LEISURE ACTIVITIES.

FOUR SEASONS RESORT MAURITIUS AT ANAHITA

The ideal combination of traditional island feel and luxurious modern design, Four Seasons Resort Mauritius at Anahita certainly makes an impression, even though we are arriving at night. Dinner is booked for us at Acquapazza: contemporary Italian. The menu is extensive, ranging from wood-fired pizza and pasta to lasagne and local seafood. The octopus salad is fresh and bursting with flavour, the mushroom lasagne the best I’ve ever tasted. The chef treats us to a beautiful pizza of cheese and black truffles, which we devour in seconds.

Waking early to the sounds of the sea and tropical birds, we are finally able to see the beauty surrounding us. The villa is spacious and elegant, with a kitchen, lounge and dining area, and private pool. Gardens stretch to the water’s edge, and trees surround us on both sides. It feels as though we are the only ones here.

Despite no member of our family being familiar with golf, we are all keen to have a golf lesson on this championship course, designed by Ernie Els, beside the Indian Ocean. (Guests have unlimited complimentary golf.) We enjoy a perfect fun morning, our teacher patient and informative. Cookies and iced tea keep the heat and hunger at bay as we snack midway through the lesson. Although we don’t make it out onto the course proper, we drive the buggy around and check out this huge property before being dropped at the 18th hole for a well-earned lunch at Il Forno.

Four Seasons Resort Mauritius at Anahita.

An open, breezy restaurant situated right on the course, the Il Forno menu offers sandwiches such as the “Old School” meatball sub, wood-fired pizza, or sushi and sashimi platters. After an icy-cold homemade lemongrass tea we are refreshed in no time.

A few hours of golfing can tighten the muscles, so a trip to the spa for a yoga session and massage seems sensible. The spa is a tranquil waterside spot on the outskirts of the resort away from the hustle and bustle. In a shaded outdoor space with an unobstructed view

over the clear blue ocean, I relax to the calm voice of the instructor. I learn a few new poses, stretched to a new level as my muscles relax in the warm island air. Other classes on the schedule included tai chi, reiki, Qi Qong, laughter yoga, and kids’ yoga.

Calm and refreshed, we are shown to the outdoor spa lounge area where we have a cup of tea before beginning our treatment. The buffet-style tea table is a treat for tea aficionados, with flavours such as chocolate rooibos and iced melon, cucumber and peppermint

tea. The spa is equipped with a hair salon and includes treatments such as indulgent bath rituals, Ayurveda practices, and massage and spa services. We opt for a traditional Mauritian-style massage. An hour of blissful pampering is followed by another delicious tea to end the treatment.

FOUR SEASONS RESORT MAURITIUS AT ANAHITA

l STAY HERE

Rates start from €780 (about A$1,213) per night. fourseasons.com/mauritius

Four Seasons Resort Mauritius at Anahita: Sailing on the lagoon, sleeping in a hammock, playing 18 holes on the Ernie Els-designed course or just relaxing by the pool. It's all good.

GARY ALLEN

FOUR SEASONS RESORT SEYCHELLES

The four seasons seychelles is a bit like a mansion-sized tree house on a hill above the ocean in a forest. The resort is designed so you feel as though you never really step into an indoor area at all. From the large villas, equipped with a private pool, luxurious day bed and balcony, to the spa and yoga room, you’re outdoors in nature the entire time.

There is no shortage of activities suitable for families or couples. A yoga class is on our schedule, and we get an

unobstructed view of the ocean below as we take a 60-minute basic-but-fun outdoor yoga class. We then take a private family cooking class with the resort chef, where we learn to make traditional Creole dishes such as fresh octopus salad, curry and deep-fried bananas. We enjoy each of the meals after the class and are gifted with a cooking pack of traditional herbs and spices such as local cinnamon bark.

The resort beach is simply stunning. Located in a bay, the water is calm and iridescent and the sand incredibly white and soft. We spend an afternoon snorkelling with the resort aquatic guide. Swimming slowly along the rock fringe we realise there is an incredible amount of sea life beneath us. The water is deep and clear, affording a perfect view of huge, colourful parrotfish, groupers and massive schools of tiny fish.

Four Seasons Resort Seychelles.

The next afternoon we embark on the mountain meditation walk. Just a few minutes from the resort is a short track up to a lookout with unbelievable views of the resort, beaches – and the sunset. The sun is just beginning to exude a fading golden glow, and the heat of the day is easing. We get comfortable on the rocks, looking out into the ocean and begin our meditation lesson. Our instructor starts with laughter yoga, a funny and unique experience. In a few minutes we are all laughing hysterically.

We then sit in quiet meditation, enjoying our surroundings. In just a few days it feels as though we’ve packed in a week’s worth of activity, yet still feel relaxed and refreshed. It has been a short stopover, but definitely a worthwhile one. The Four Seasons Seychelles is a truly beautiful place.

FOUR SEASONS RESORT SEYCHELLES

l STAY HERE

Rates start from €1,286 (about A$2,000) per night. fourseasons.com/Seychelles

Opposite page: Guestroom and in the swim at Four Seasons Resort Seychelles; meditation walk at sunset.

ANGSANA BALACLAVA MAURITIUS

Less than one hour’s drive (60km) from the airport, in secluded Turtle Bay on the northwest coast of Mauritius, Angsana Balaclava Mauritius is a glimpse of paradise. With 52 luxury suites ranging in size from 72 to 180 square metres, most with private pools and ocean views, you’re spoiled for choice. If bigger is better, then the Imperial Pool Villa is the one for you. At nearly 800 square metres, elaborately spread out over two storeys with four bedrooms, two pools and a dedicated butler, the Imperial Pool Villa is the epitome of lavish living. The villas are well-appointed with lava stone walls, timber and marble floors, thatched roofs and a large free-standing bath tub.

There are many activities on offer, from snorkelling, sailing, tai chi and yoga to bike tours and cooking classes. If you decide to venture out and see some of the island, it’s a 15-minute drive to the capital, Port Louis, for markets, shopping and cultural activities. Fifteen minutes in the other direction takes you to the coastal village of Grand Baie, a popular spot for dining and beaching.

Dining at Angsana centres around the lush garden courtyard with indoor and outdoor seating at Oryza restaurant. Serving Asian fusion, Creole, Indian and European cuisine, the setting is romantic and the service friendly. The five-course dinner has options for all tastes. We enjoy predinner drinks at Sylea, the thatchedroof bar in the courtyard.

The award-winning spa and wellness centre at Angsana has a vitality pool, sauna, steam room and nine treatment

Angsana Balaclava Mauritius at Turtle Bay.

rooms. They offer traditional Ayurveda remedies along with Thai massage and local treatments using freshly ground coconut, lime, ginger, lemongrass and ylang-ylang.

There are two pools, a freshwater and a sandy bottom saltwater pool. For lunch, Passion Grill has a swim-up bar and an open kitchen. Snack on mussels and oysters on your submerged bar stool or enjoy your meal at a table and chairs submerged a few inches into the watermy kids love this!

We hire a car for the week and spend our afternoons exploring. It’s the best way to get a feel for the island. We discover little roti stalls in small villages and eat with the locals, who are friendly,

helpful and proud of their small island. We see people sweeping the beaches and footpaths – the place is spotless!

However, if you just want to relax in the sun there are plenty of lounge chairs and palm-fringed shade huts along the beachfront, with large jugs of lemon water to keep you hydrated in the hot Mauritian sun. While the beach has its share of coral, the sand is soft and white, and the water warm and calm. Being on the west coast, the sunsets are amazing.

l STAY HERE

Rates start from €315.25 (about A$490) per night. angsana.com

ANGSANA BALACLAVA MAURITIUS

Clockwise from above left: Not a giant coconut but a free-standing bath tub in a beach pool villa; dining at Oryza; thatched-roof luxury by the sea.

KEMPINSKI SEYCHELLES RESORT

The kempinski seychelles Resort nestles in the tropical paradise of secluded Baie Lazare on the island of Mahé. After a 20-minute ride from the airport, you will soon be bathing in the warm tranquil water of the Indian Ocean.

With plenty to do (or not to do) you won’t be bored. The clear blue water begs you to dive in, to start the day with an early morning swim. Bring the

mask and snorkel and check out the underwater aquarium. It’s amazing and can all be enjoyed before your first cup of coffee.

After breakfast, the guided snorkel tour is a fantastic thing to do with the family. We board the kayaks and paddle a short way to an area down the beach from the resort, moor to a buoy and jump in. Schools of fish quickly surround us. Afterwards, our guide takes us out the front of the resort to hunt for edible sea urchins, which we are shown how to clean and eat.

The beachside buffet lunch option is fantastic, with choices of grilled lamb chops, chicken and fresh fish grilled to perfection, along with tasty salads and a dessert buffet.

Kempinski Seychelles Resort, Baie Lazare, Mahé.

Dinner at L’Indochine is also quite amazing. Specialising in seafood, but with plenty of alternative options, their sashimi and sushi platter is beautiful to look at and tastes great. The sommelier and staff make sure we enjoy the experience, which includes a surprise birthday party for one of the family. Later, the huge open gym helps minimise any calories gained.

Also great fun are the guided nature walks. With a local colourful character named Achilles, we walk through the

jungle and learn about different native plants on the island. Everything is there for us to see and taste – native berries, cinnamon trees, even where to find fresh water. The turnaround point is at the top of a cliff looking over the resort and bay out to the ocean. It is beautiful end to the day as we watch the sun begin to set over the ocean.

KEMPINSKI SEYCHELLES RESORT

l STAY HERE

Rates start from €390 (about A$607) per night. kempinski.com

Africa

l GETTING THERE

Air Mauritius flies direct to Mauritius from Perth. Return economy fares are priced from A$1,346; return business class from A$3,697. Flying time is about eight hours, 40 minutes. airmauritius.com

Air Seychelles flies between Mauritius and Seychelles. Return economy airfares are priced at MUR 16,154 (about A$633); return business class at MUR 25,496 (about A$1,010). airseychelles.com

l WHERE TO STAY BEFORE YOU GO

When travelling from Australia to Mauritius, direct flights exit out of Perth. If you have an early morning domestic flight out of Sydney to reach your connection in Perth, we recommend the Adina Apartment Hotel Sydney Airport. Recently opened, the hotel has been designed to bring the comfort of apartment-style accommodation to Australia’s busiest airport. Conveniently located less than one kilometre from Sydney Airport, the hotel has 123 serviced apartments across six storeys; with 51 studios, 66 one-bedroom units, and six two-bedroom units. Guests can take the hotel’s airport shuttle or nearby train to the terminal – avoiding Sydney's early morning traffic. Rates start from A$138 per night. tfehotels.com

SEYCHELLES

MAURITIUS

MADAGASCAR

Clockwise from left: Pool vs beach; L'Indochine restaurant; kayaks and bikes ready to go – the choice is yours.

THIS PICTURE POSTCARD-PERFECT ISLAND WELCOMES FAMILIES JUST THREE TIMES A YEAR. Katrina Holden DISCOVERS BAREFOOT LUXURY WITH A KID-FRIENDLY SMILE.

this is going to be good, i think when the booking forms arrive in my inbox. “Please describe your child’s dominant personality trait so we can custom-match their ‘bula buddy’ to their personality” it reads. I’m asked to name my favourite tropical drink to be handed to me on arrival. I’m eager to watch as my kids enjoy their new surroundings, make new friends and leave their comfort zone to experience new customs.

Turtle Island in Fiji’s northern Yasawa Island group is, for most of the year, a couples-only haven of white sand and glorious clear waters. The setting for both the 1949 and 1979 versions of

The Blue Lagoon, this romantic island with its seven private beaches turns into a playground for families just three times a year during Turtle Island Family Week. Only on Fijian soil for less than five minutes, I’m reminded why this South Pacific gem is a consistently smart choice for families. They don’t just “tolerate” children here – they positively love them. Even the customs officers smile and chat with the kids. Through the gates, our Turtle Island representative, Mary, is waving to us. Within five minutes, we’re wearing shell necklaces and my two-yearold is sitting atop the luggage on the trolley feeling like lord of Nadi Airport.

THE TURTLE ISLAND WELCOME

A 30-minute seaplane flight later and we are shoeless, stepping onto soft, finely textured white sand, music playing in our honour. We’re all carried out of the seaplane, my welcome drink is placed in my hand by our new ‘bure mama’, Elle, and I can see my kids being welcomed by their bula buddies, Illy, Maca and Milly.

Walking to our oceanfront bure, the path lined with pavers etched with the names and messages of former Turtle Island guests, we get a thrill to see our names on a wooden plaque above the door. Inside, flowers are everywhere including on the white-cotton bedcovers, leaves that spell out “Bula! Welcome home!”

The open-air kids’ village is a short stroll down the beach. There’s a communal table where the kids can have meals, activity tables for puzzles, drawing and board games and a sandpit which my youngest spots instantly. There are also hammocks, kayaks and the constant sounds of staff singing Fijian songs to strumming guitar accompaniment.

Back at the main dining area, I become acquainted with some of my fellow guests. I meet a couple from Sydney’s northern beaches who have brought their children and grandchildren here for a holiday on their seventh trip. Other families of grandparents, children and grandchildren are here from New Zealand and also Seattle. Another couple, emergency room doctors from Louisiana, are here on their third visit – they honeymooned here and have since returned twice with their children. It seems many couples return again and again. One Australian couple had a party thrown in their honour to mark their 50th visit – quite a commitment considering it opened in 1980. The accommodation and dining quarters are truly “barefoot luxury”. As seven-time visitor Karen says, “People don’t come here to wear their stilettos at dinner, they come to be a part of the village and the Turtle Island family”. It’s true. I spend most of the week barefoot (except on vigorous walks to the top of the mountain, where I’m rewarded by panoramic vistas).

I join my children in activities such as fish-feeding, visiting the nearby village and the local school across the bay, and taking a guided horse ride along the beach – sometimes we just splash around in the calm blue

PHOTOGRAPHY BY KATRINA HOLDEN

BULA BUDDY MILLY

CULTURAL PERFORMANCE

FISH-FEEDING TIME

waters right outside our bure. The kids hang out in anticipation for their bula buddies to appear along the beach. Before I can yell “put your hat on!” they’re racing off to discover more new adventures.

Private picnics can be arranged at any of the island’s private beaches. Private pontoon dining is also an option and afternoon tea is delivered daily to our room. On one occasion, staff make their way along the beachfront to form a small choir outside our bure and then serenade us. The bures all offer beautiful water views. Some have spas, but with a

two-year-old, I’m thankful ours didn’t. That didn’t stop my other two from finding their way into the bure of a new friend where they all splashed around. The ideal age for children here is probably four to 12 years old.

Adults can go for a walk, swing in a hammock, enjoy one-on-one time or a spa treatment comfortable in the knowledge their children are having the time of their lives, cared for by staff who treat them as their own. There is no WiFi (only outside the gift shop) and no TV – exactly the way I want it.

On the morning of our departure, we are

Fiji islands

invited to say a few words to the new friends and behind-the-scenes staff who work hard so we can relax.

As we head down to the jetty, after etching our names in our own stone, staff sing a farewell song and wreaths of flowers are placed around our necks. As the propeller blades fire up on the Turtle Airways seaplane, we cast our flowers into the water. My nineyear-old son has tears rolling down his cheeks as he waves goodbye to his new Turtle Island family. This has been a magical week, one they will remember for a lifetime.

TURTLE ISLAND

l GETTING THERE

Fiji Airways flies direct to Nadi International Airport from Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane. Return economy fares from Sydney start from A$813; business class from A$1,697. Total flying time from Sydney is approx. four hours. fijiairways.com

l STAY HERE

Turtle Island Family Week dates for 2016 are 21 December, 2015-10 January, 2016; 26 March-10 April; 25 June-17 July; and 17 December-8 Jan 2017. turtlefiji.com

“People don’t come here to wear their stilettos at dinner, they come to be a part of the village and the Turtle Island family”.

BEDROOM IN THE BURE

Lobby at Swissôtel Zurich.

SWISS STYLE

Belinda Craigie CHECKS IN TO CHECK OUT HOW THE LUXURY ON OFFER IN TWO OF SWITZERLAND’S FINEST HOTELS REFLECTS THE LUSHNESS OF THE LAND.

Having flown over the Danube River winding through Hungary, past the Italian Dolomites with just the occasional glimpse of the Swiss Alps, I touch down in Zurich. As the plane taxis to the gate, I’m greeted by scenes that conjure up memories of Heidi – chalets, flower-filled meadows, snow-capped mountains, hills dense with trees.

It’s not a high-rise city, but more a jumble of churches, quaint houses and public spaces that give way to the rivers and lakes that make up a large part of the city’s character. I’m in Zurich as a guest of Swissôtel Hotels & Resorts, to see first-hand how their claims of weaving Swiss culture into their hotels translates into the guest experience. Swissôtel now operates in more than 30 countries under Canadian-based hotel group FRHI, which also owns Fairmontand Raffles-branded properties.

From the airport, it’s a short drive

to Swissôtel Zurich in the Oerlikon District. This is the brand’s flagship hotel and has just undergone a renovation of its common spaces (refurbishment of its 347 rooms and suites is scheduled for later this year). One of the highlights is Le Muh restaurant, serving contemporary European cuisine. Swissôtel sources products from local artisans, with the aim of giving guests a glimpse into the Swiss way of life.

I visit John Baker bakery in Zurich, which provides Le Muh with its daily

l RECOMMENDED READING HOTEL DU LAC

by Anita Brookner

Hotel du Lac focuses on romance novelist Edith Hope’s encounters with fellow guests at Hotel du Lac on the shores of Lake Geneva. A humorous story of selfreflection and independence, the novel won the 1984 Booker Prize. penguin.com.au

bread, including Swiss plaited loaves. Later, an outdoor dinner party in the Old Botanical Garden allows me to sample honey from one of the hotel’s suppliers: an ‘urban bee garden’, with hives kept on rooftops around Zurich. A taste of the honey atop a slice of creamy Jersey blue cheese from renowned cheesemaker Willi Schmid confirms my belief in the superiority of Swiss cheese. Schmid’s factory is the size of an average living room and he can determine what type of grass a cow has eaten by tasting its milk. I get a more rural insight into how the Swiss live the following day en route to Geneva. Stopping in Wangen an der Aare, we’re shown farms where mint, lemon balm and lavender are grown –to be distilled into essential oils, which are then infused into the hotel’s Pürovel amenities brand. These products are found in Swissôtel’s rooms and spas around the world. One farmer explains the process of growing mint while I run my fingers through the leaves. A delightfully potent scent on my skin

We’re shown farms where mint, lemon balm and lavender are grown – to be distilled into essential oils, which are then infused into the hotel’s Pürovel amenities brand.

Above, clockwise from left: fine dining at Swissôtel Zurich; essential oils and the fragrance of mint at Wangen an der Aare; 'urban' honey at Swissôtel Zurich.

remains with me for the rest of the morning. In the next field, a sea of bee balm (bergamot) is a blanket of pink, contrasting perfectly with the blue sky.

Sunflower meadows and vineyards soon give way to the lakefront buildings of Geneva, their façades splashed with advertising for luxury Swiss watch brands. I’m checking into Swissôtel Mètropole Geneva on the lakefront in the Old Town, opposite the Jardin Anglais, or English Garden, and its l’horloge fleurie (floral clock). The cool lobby is refreshing after a hot day in the fields – and the service equally as impeccable as in Zurich.

On entering my room, zesty raspberry cocktail in hand, I am taken by the colourful silk wallpaper crafted for the hotel by Jakob Schlaepfer, whose bespoke fabric creations have been utilised by the likes of Louis Vuitton, Vivienne Westwood and Chanel. The blurry floral print is designed to evoke alpine fields and honours Switzerland’s silk-making heritage.

Swissôtel’s artisanal partnerships extend to century-old luxury stationers Caran d’Ache. At its factory, I hear about the most extravagant pen they’ve crafted – made of solid gold and encrusted with diamonds, it was picked up by a collector for about €1 million (about A$1.5m).

Swissôtel’s partnership with Caran d’Ache is somewhat more practical, the

Swissôtel Mètropole Geneva, clockwise from above left: Jakob Schlaepfer silk wallpaper; bedroom; Lake Geneva view from 5 Lounge.

stationer crafting special-edition pens to be gifted to members of its Swissôtel Circle loyalty program who reach the top-tier Zenit level.

At the end of a busy day, I head to the rooftop bar 5 Lounge. Sipping LaurentPerrier with a panoramic view of Lake Geneva and the Jet d’Eau fountain is an unbeatable way to greet the sunset.

SWISS Ô TELS

l GETTING THERE

Emirates flies to Zurich and Geneva from Sydney, via Dubai. Flying time is about 23 hours, including stopover. Return economy fares start at A$2,047; return business class from A$8,487. From October 2015, Zurich becomes an all-A380 route, with a second daily A380 service launching between Zurich and Dubai. emirates.com

l STAY HERE

Room rates at Swissôtel Zurich start at CHF315 (about A$438) per night. Room rates at Swissôtel Mètropole Geneva start at about CHF550 (about A$765) per night. swissôtel.com

GENEVA

ZURICH

I am taken by the colourful silk wallpaper crafted for the hotel by Jakob Schlaepfer...The blurry floral print is designed to evoke alpine fields.

CALM MIND AND A GOLDEN GLOW

Katrina Holden GOES BEYOND THE DOOR TO EXPERIENCE THE WELLNESS ETHOS AT A TOP RETREAT IN THE HUNTER VALLEY, NEW SOUTH WALES

it’s 6:30am and i’m standing in silence on Meditation Hill, overlooking a patchwork quilt of fields and vineyards. I’m breathing deeply, my arms outstretched on this brisk winter morning, and wishing my fingerless gloves could go the distance over my chilled cuticles. The enthusiastic program manager at Golden Door Health Retreat & Spa Elysia, Jaye Hoelscher, leads us through tai chi moves, which we are told roughly translates to ‘energising of life force’. As we finish,

Hoelscher asks us to turn towards the rising sun as it edges slowly over the horizon to illuminate our crisp faces in a golden glow. “Let’s give thanks for all we are grateful for – and this beautiful day,” she says.

With only the sounds of trickling water and the morning musings of birds, I think of my children and what I hope to get out of the next three days. My eyes fill with happy tears. It’s a golden start to my three days at this wellness retreat in the Hunter Valley.

PROGRAM MANAGER JAYE HOELSCHER

Voted by our readers as Australia’s best in our 2015 Luxury Travel magazine Gold List awards, Golden Door is now celebrating its 10th year. Its villas have been thoughtfully designed in a circular pattern from the main reception, library and dining area, flanking Meditation Hill, which has two pathways to its crest, and representing yin and yang. On my arrival, groups of strangers, some couples and some friends, converge in the communal dining area for the first healthy meal of our stay. Together, over our herbal teas and low-fat, sugar-free, no-red-meat cuisine, we trade stories. One couple from Perth are here for their anniversary, halfway through their first pregnancy and expecting twins. One mum from Melbourne was enjoying a much-needed break, booked in by her husband for almost every spa treatment. Another mother from Sydney was soon to start a new job. Nine gentlemen from an aviation company were here for a group conference.

here, but you deserve to be here, because if we can’t operate at our optimum for ourselves, we can’t operate at our most optimum for those who need us.”

The promise of “helping you feel like yourself again through balance of the mind, body and spirit” draws collective nods of approval and recognition. The group seems united in wanting to leave Golden Door feeling we are on the way to being better versions of ourselves.

After a welcome lunch, Hoelscher takes us on a tour of the property. We learn where the gym, fitness studios, indoor pool, spa, steam rooms, laundry and numerous water filters are located. We’re asked to observe the ‘no mobile phone’ policy in common areas and limit device usage to our rooms.

The first day includes a wellness assessment to discuss goals for the stay. You can have weight, body mass index and hydration levels measured – or if you prefer to focus on mindfulness, you’ll be

The staff tell us people come here for a wide range of reasons – some are grieving for lost loved ones, some recovering from major illness or trauma, some have burned out, some want to escape and disconnect, while others want to kickstart a healthier lifestyle. Around the room, ‘return guests’ are distinguished by yellow stickers on their nametags, which we’re encouraged to wear at all times so we can be addressed personally.

Golden Door also operated on Queensland’s Gold Coast for 21 years, closing last year. Many former guests now make the pilgrimage to NSW to continue their journey. At our evening orientation seminar, Hoelscher, with Golden Door since 2008, tells us, “I meet lots of people who feel guilty for being

guided to classes such as yoga, guided meditation and Feldenkrais. Sessions run for 45 mins to an hour, with a daily program placed on my bed each night at turndown service, which also includes lighting an oil burner in my bathroom. Consequently, a bubble bath seems a fitting way to end the day.

What I enjoy about my Golden Door stay is being able to set my own pace, joining in activities as I wish. During group hockey and badminton sessions, I opt to enjoy a leisurely soak in the spa bath and steam room. However, I do manage to work up a sweat during the morning walk, in the deep-water running in the pool and in the Zumba class. (There is something liberating about a group of women of all ages shaking their hips

I’m happy to say I’ve avoided coffee, I’m drinking more water, I’m paying closer attention to what I feed myself and my children, and I’m remembering the one thing I can control when everything else seems out of control – my breathing.

BOXING WORKOUT

SPA ELYSIA

to the beat of Proud Mary, laughing our heads – and, hopefully, butts – off.) My mind is treated to tai chi each morning, yoga, a one-on-one meditation, breathing session and stretch classes.

Wholesome, nutritious food is prepared by affable Scottish chef David Hunter, another veteran of the Queensland property. In his weekly cooking demonstration, he gives us his best MasterChef judge impersonation. “Why ‘huv’ they got to be so serious, it’s only cooking! It’s bullying on TV!” he declares in a thick Scottish brogue. Clearly the Golden Door philosophy and absence of caffeine, alcohol and saturated fats in his diet is having the desired effect.

Preparing to leave, I ponder how to carry the ‘golden glow’ with me in my daily life beyond the Hunter Valley bubble. The advice we receive is that successful change begins with just “10 per cent tweaks”. We’re encouraged to make small, manageable changes rather than attempt an unsustainable lifestyle overhaul. A few weeks on and I’m happy to say I’ve avoided coffee, I’m drinking more water, I’m paying closer attention to what I feed myself and my children, and I’m remembering the one thing I can control when everything else seems out of control – my breathing.

GOLDEN DOOR HEALTH RETREAT & SPA ELYSIA

l GETTING THERE

Golden Door is a two-hour drive north of Sydney. It offers a transfer service from Sydney airport for its guests.

l STAY HERE

Prices start from A$1,780 (twinshare) for a three-night stay. The Motivate for Change program is Sunday through Wednesday every week. Guests can also stay for five or seven nights, prices varying accordingly. Inclusions are luxury villa or suite accommodation, personal wellness assessment on arrival, all meals, activities including fitness and mind-body classes, seminars and workshops; use of all facilities including indoor heated lap pool, outdoor resort pool, tennis courts, fully equipped gymnasium, steam room, spa bath, indoor and outdoor activity studios; one spa treatment and one wellness consultation. goldendoor.com.au

KATRINA HOLDEN

MISTY MORNING OVER THE HUNTER

VIEW TO BROKENBACK MOUNTAINS

AS Susan Borham DISCOVERS, SOUTH PACIFIC LUXURY AWAITS ONLY TWO HOURS FROM FIJI’S INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT.

australian-based luxury travellers heading to Fiji will likely spend a night on Fiji’s main island of Viti Levu before heading off by plane or boat to a resort on one of the country’s many smaller, far-flung islands. On the way home, again because of transfer scheduling, they often do the same. Until Nanuku opened in early 2014, the options on Viti Levu were limited for anyone hoping for a boutique luxury resort experience. In fact, Nanuku is still the closest you’ll get to a private, villa-style, South Pacific island retreat without having to make the trip across water to one of the half-dozen or so of Fiji’s more than 300 smaller islands where the most luxurious properties are.

No shortage of luxury at Nanuku, though. The property, now operated by Californian based luxury boutique resort company Auberge Resorts, is built on Viti Levu’s best beach, in the heart of Fiji’s soft-adventure capital the Pacific Coast, just more than two hours’ drive from Nadi International Airport. With a limousine transfer on offer, the drive is a chance to take in the villages and tropical landscape. However, if Nanuku is your final Fiji destination and you’re staying longer than five nights, included in your tariff are return air transfers for two from Nadi to Nanuku’s private airstrip.

Nanuku offers 12 villas and four suites. For families and groups of friends there are spacious beachfront residences with private pools and landscaped lawns, outdoor living rooms, outdoor day beds, yoga pavilions, luxurious ensuites with spa baths, spacious air-conditioned

NANUKU AUBERGE RESORT

l GETTING THERE

Fiji Airways flies from Sydney direct to Suva on Mondays and Fridays, or from Melbourne and Brisbane via Nadi. Return economy fares are priced from A$749 from Sydney to Suva; return business class from A$1,960. Flying time from Sydney to Suva is approx. 4 hours 30 minutes. fijiairways.com

Nanuku is about a 55-minute drive from Suva, or a two-hour drive from Nadi. Nanuku also offers a 30-minute air charter service from Nadi Airport to the resort’s private airstrip. Fares are priced from FJD 290 (about A$188) per adult and FJD 203 (about A$132) per child.

AUSTRALIA

KADAVU ISLAND

Clockwise from above: Grand Villa second bedroom at Nanuku; Grand Villa; Nanuku blends into the scenery. Previous pages: Cultural encounter and beachcombing at Nanuku.

YOU’RE INVITED...

... to enjoy Peter Kuruvita’s passion for creative modern dishes, imaginative menus and sumptuous seafood in the heart of Hastings Street.

... to enjoy Peter Kuruvita’s passion for creative modern dishes, imaginative menus and sumptuous seafood in the heart of Hastings Street.

Open 7 days a week for breakfast and dinner.

Open 7 days a week for breakfast and dinner.

Lunch Saturday and Sunday from noon to 3pm

Lunch Saturday and Sunday from noon to 3pm

Noosa Beach House Peter Kuruvita

Noosa Beach House Peter Kuruvita

14-16 Hastings Street, Noosa Heads T +61 7 5449 4754

14-16 Hastings Street, Noosa Heads T +61 7 5449 4754

E noosabeachhouse@sheraton.com

E noosabeachhouse@sheraton.com

Visit noosabeachhousepk.com.au

Visit noosabeachhousepk.com.au

Fiji’s best golf courses are on your doorstep... or you can snorkel the surrounding reefs, go game fishing, feed sharks or take a hiking safari... Or you could just stay poolside at Nanuku, eat delicious food and have fruit cocktails delivered to you.

indoor living and dining areas, and nannies, butlers, chefs and a kids’ club. For couples, there is all of that – plus quiet, child-free spaces… and yoga instructors, a spa, fitness centre and a bar that swings into gear before dinner.

There are six huge residences altogether, five spaced out along the beachfront and another on a volcanic outcrop with sweeping island and ocean views. Each residence gets a golf cart to whisk its occupants around the resort’s gardens up to the main restaurant and spa.

The Lomana day spa has indoor and outdoor treatment pavilions and uses the local Pure Fiji products. You can take your massage or spa treatment in your villa. Likewise, on the occasions you’d prefer not to take the buggy-ride across to the resort’s Kanavata restaurant, dining in your villa is an option. Or perhaps lunch across the water on a nearby private island, or at any of a number of other privatedining locations throughout the property. Kanavata restaurant is worth the effort

Above: Dine in your villa. Opposite page: Relax in the spa, dive in the deep, get cerebral or chill out poolside. Decisions, decisions...

though, if only for the beautiful views. The long table is an option if you're feeling lucky and want to take your chances on dining with strangers (Treasurer Joe Hockey was a guest during our stay, but he didn't make an appearance at the long table). The food is Pacific – fresh, local (some ingredients are organic, harvested from the resort’s garden) and seasonal, with an emphasis on locally caught seafood. With limited ingredients in the Pacific, it’s down to the chefs to apply imagination to what is

available and the team at Nanuku do an amazing job of serving up delicious cuisine at breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Fiji’s best golf courses are on your doorstep and soft adventure abounds. You can snorkel the surrounding reefs; go game fishing for wahoo, giant trevally and mahi mahi; feed sharks in Beqa Lagoon (about 20 minutes offshore from Nanuku); or take a hiking safari to the Waisese Waterfall. Other excursions include jet skiing, ziplining and river rafting. Or you can partake in cultural activities such as witnessing a kava ceremony at a local village, all of which can be arranged from the resort.

Or you could just stay poolside at Nanuku, eat delicious food and have fruit cocktails delivered to you on trays with decorative flowers.

NANUKU AUBERGE RESORT

l STAY HERE

All-inclusive room rates at Nanuku start at FJD 2,550 (about A$1,657) per night, including taxes and fees. nanuku.aubergeresorts.com

COSMOPOLITAN COOL

PULLMAN PEOPLE ARE GLOBAL NOMADS, CONSTANTLY ON THE MOVE AS THEY MIX BUSINESS AND LEISURE, HAVE AN EYE FOR DESIGN AND CRAVE A HIGH LEVEL OF CONNECTIVITY. Robert Upe DISCOVERS AN ICONIC TRAVEL BRAND REINVENTING ITSELF AS A BENCHMARK OF STYLE.

HYDE PARK SYDNEY

Celebrity chefs are the order of the day and the uber-trendy Pullman hotels have nabbed one of the best with their culinary ambassador Justin North of Hotel Centennial and Becasse fame.

The award-winning chef’s Tapastry menu has been a hit since it rolled out last year. The tapas-style menu is indicative of the five-star hotel group’s desire to be on trend. It pushes all the right buttons: small sharing plates, low-food miles and sustainably sourced produce.

But not content to sit on his laurels, North has refreshed the menu with greater emphasis on local produce. The menu was still in development when Luxury Travel went to press, but a sneak peek in the test kitchen revealed some of the possibilities: plates of deep-sea prawns with miso-burnt garlic butter; crispy fried free-range chicken, fermented red chilli emulsion, pickles and fennel salt; and toothfish with green papaya salad, ginger and lime dressing.

North will have three signature dishes on the revamped menu at Pullman

properties across Australia, while the executive chefs at each property will contribute up to five locally inspired dishes exclusive to their respective hotels.

North, who has been awarded multiple chef’s hats over eight years by The Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide, is passionate about ethical eating. He prefers to use ingredients sourced from growers who embrace sustainable farming practices.

The Pullman brand is part of the Accor Hotels group, which also has Sofitel, MGallery and the Sebel in its stable. However, it is Pullman that has become the fastest-growing five-star brand in the Asia-Pacific, set up as an executive lifestyle, upscale brand. There are now 109 Pullmans globally in 29 countries, more than 60 in the Asia-Pacific, including 14 properties in Australia/ New Zealand. This runaway success may partly be due to staying on trend, not just with food, but also with the design-conscious fit-out common to all its hotels.

Pullman hotels draw in a cosmopolitan crowd. They’re people who travel a lot, have an eye for design,

TAPASTRY

TAPASTRY

PULLMAN CULINARY AMBASSADOR: CHEF JUSTIN NORTH

IMAGES COURTESY OF ACCOR

want to be somewhere cool, and are probably the first ones in the queue when a new Apple product is launched.

The Pullman calls them ‘global nomads’ who mix business and leisure and crave a high level of connectivity.

The Pullman brand has its origins in the luxury sleeping cars developed in the USA

during the 1880s. These railway cars transformed rail travel into a desirable experience, not just a way of getting from A to B. High service standards were part of that experience, a dictum particularly evident with Pullman’s ‘Welcomers’ who greet guests and provide a quality concierge service throughout their stay.

The Pullman property portfolio is diverse, from wellpositioned city properties to resorts in idyllic settings. Its Australian hotels and resorts range from Bunker Bay in Margaret River to the glorious views of Pullman Quay Grand Sydney Harbour, and the tropical chic of the Pullman Port Douglas Sea Temple Resort

Pullman hotels draw in... people who travel a lot, have an eye for design, want to be somewhere cool. They call them ‘global nomads’.

GRAND QUAY SYDNEY

SEA TEMPLE PORT DOUGLAS

ALBERT PARK MELBOURNE

KING GEORGE SQUARE BRISBANE

and Spa. Sea Temple has won a place in Trip Advisor’s Hall of Fame for receiving a certificate of excellence five years in a row. The resort provides ready access to the Great Barrier Reef and Daintree rainforest. Its lagoon-style swimming pool is one of the largest in Australasia, but getting to it may be a problem because there

are so many other temptations, such as private plunge pools in the villas or the treatments at Vie Spa.

Another pool where you should make a splash is at Sydney’s Hyde Park Pullman, which offers a rooftop dip with views over the park.

Melbourne on the Park (it was formerly a Hilton),

opposite the MCG is the second Pullman hotel in Melbourne, after its Albert Park property. Both hotels are in the thick of the action for this sports-mad city’s spectacular events: the Australian F1 Grand Prix, AFL Grand Final, Australian Tennis Open and cricket’s annual Boxing Day Test.

Accor relaunched the

Pullman brand last January and they have plans for 40 new properties in the AsiaPacific (11,000 rooms) over the next three years – two in the Sydney and Brisbane airport precincts – and keep an eye out for the Pullman Park Lane Hong Kong and the newly announced Pullman Bangkok. pullmanhotels.com

BUNKER BAY MARGARET RIVER

ALBERT PARK MELBOURNE HYDE PARK SYDNEY

ROYALLY REFURBISHED

Amember of the prestigious oetker Collection, The Lanesborough London has just reopened after an extensive renovation project led by design studio Alberto Pinto. The hotel’s Buckingham Suites are aptly named, as the stately and luxurious rooms feature views across the royal palace gardens. Each suite welcomes its guests in a mahoganylined entrance hall, which leads to a spacious separate living and dining room decorated with hand-stencilled wood panelling and able to host up to six guests.

The elegant bedrooms are styled with a touch of Regency and are connected to bathrooms gilded in hand-cut Italian marble. Room temperature and the integrated entertainment system (offering unlimited movies and music) are controlled by a Sony tablet. There is a 24-hour butler service and the daily replenishment of fresh fruit, assorted sweets and mineral water is also included.

Rates for the Buckingham Suite are priced from £5,600 (about A$11,890) per night. lanesborough.com

SUITE LIFE

ABOUT THE HOTEL

Built in 1912, Pier One was a cargo wharf and passenger terminal until 1977. The hotel opened in 1999 and was renovated in 2012. Set in the heart of The Rocks overlooking Walsh Bay, it has 189 rooms including seven newly renovated suites (four with balconies). The prevailing theme is nautical, blending original timber beams and ironwork with a chic modern design. It has a small boutique feel.

UNIQUE FEATURES

Pier One has over-the-water rooms with amazing views of Luna Park, the Harbour Bridge and Opera House. It is pet-friendly (cleaning fee applies). The function/ conference venue features jaw dropping floor-to-ceiling views of Sydney Harbour.

PIER ONE SYDNEY HARBOUR Harbour View Balcony Suite

Size: 62 square metres

Price: From A$1,200 per night

Website: pieronesydneyharbour.com.au

Review by: Kelly Allen

DINING

The Gantry Restaurant & Bar overlooks Walsh Bay, and is enveloped by the sunset, which transforms it into a glowing amber ball. Admiring the large zinc-clad bar, we enjoyed a predinner cocktail while listening to the DJ. Our shared plate of Mirrool Creek 24-hour roasted lamb shoulder with caramelised vegetables and couscous was melt-in-your-mouth delicious. The breakfast was also very good with a selection of healthy options

such as chia seed pudding, fresh berries, homemade yoghurt in glass pots and probiotic drinks. There were also gluten-free options. You can sit outside on the pier if weather permits.

SPA

Experience the luxury of a spa without leaving your room. The hotel’s Stay-In spa menu features massage, exfoliating scrub treaments, facials, manicures, pedicures and more, all without leaving your suite.

HIGHLIGHTS

Champagne when checking in was a nice surprise. Other highlights were yoga on the pier under the Harbour Bridge, watching the sun set from our 40 squaremetre balcony overlooking Walsh Bay, and the beautiful Appelles Apothecary amenities.

UPGRADE

We stayed in a Harbour View Balcony Suite overlooking Walsh Bay, but the Harbour View Balcony Suite at the north end of the hotel has the best views of the harbour.

INSIDER TIP

Don’t forget to book ahead for yoga on the pier, which is free to hotel guests. If yoga is not your thing, take a morning walk around the botanical gardens before heading back for breakfast.

ABOUT THE HOTEL

With views overlooking the Sydney Harbour Bridge and Opera House, Shangri-La Sydney is one of the city's most prestigious harbourside hotels.

UNIQUE FEATURES

The Shangri-La is part of the urban beekeeping movement with seven hives on the hotel rooftop, which produce between 60kg and 70kg of honey per year, for use in the hotel restaurants and kitchens. Executive chef Steven Krasicki is passionate about his “girls” and – along with beekeeper Doug Purdie, author of Backyard Bees –maintains the hives and collects the honey. We were fortunate enough to check out the hivesand the honey was fantastic!

DINING

The Shangri-La is well-known for its fine-dining restaurant Altitude, on the 36th floor, which has both

SHANGRI-LA HOTEL, SYDNEY Horizon Club Darling Harbour View Suite

Size: 77 square metres

Price: From A$590 per night

Website: shangri-la.com/sydney

Review by: Gary Allen

incredible views and food. We enjoyed taking in all the colour of Sydney’s Vivid festival the night we dined. On weekends, dinner is a four-course set menu showcasing the best in local produce including cured yellow-fin tuna, roast Cervena venison, Hiramasa Kingfish and a comprehensive cheese selection to accompany the extensive wine menu. The more casual Shayan Quarter on the first floor is a gem. While the view may not compete with Altitude, the food certainly holds its own. Chef Bo Sorensen has a creative modern twist on Asian street food, and we

were blown away with everything we tasted, including sticky chilli caramel pork belly “baogers” and Szechuan-style chicken wings .

SPA

Shangri-La’ s Chi Spa features Australian brand Sodashi , which is chemical-free and uses some native Australian plant ingredients. It has a new spa menu offering treatments ranging from 30 minutes to 3.5 hours. We enjoyed a couple’s facial in a softly lit room on heated massage tables. It was honestly one of the best facials I have ever had.

HIGHLIGHTS

I loved a welcome tea basket in our room with a hot pot of brewed tea and ceramic cups – and the views of the city from Millers Point to the Opera House. Other highlights were evening cocktails in the Horizon Club and the delicious rooftop honey.

UPGRADE

The Royal Suite is the hotel’s top suite at 242 square metres, with one bedroom, a separate kitchenette, dining room and executive study.

INSIDER TIP

As a Horizon Club guest you can use the newly refurbished Horizon Club on the 30th floor. It offers a light breakfast, beverages, canapés and cocktails, suit pressing and many other benefits. The views alone are worth the investment.

ALTITUDE RESTAURANT

PARK HYATT SYDNEY Opera Deluxe Suite

Size: 75 square metres

Price: About A$1,500 per night

Website: sydney.park.hyatt.com

Review by: Gary Allen

ABOUT THE HOTEL

Perched on the edge of majestic Sydney Harbour, Park Hyatt Sydney offers views of the iconic Opera House and Harbour Bridge. The hotel houses 155 spacious guestrooms and suites, with floorto-ceiling glass doors and private balconies that make the best of the harbourside location. The contemporary interiors include specially commissioned artwork, paintings and sculptures by Australian artists, and custommade furniture and lighting. The hotel is within walking distance of several major attractions around

Sydney, including the historic centre, The Rocks.

UNIQUE FEATURES

The hotel places an emphasis on service, with a dedicated 24-hour personal butler and even a private wharf, accessible by water taxi. It also offers complimentary morning CBD limousine service and airport transfers, as well as a same-day laundry and drycleaning service.

DINING

Dining at the Park Hyatt Sydney can be done in either the Dining Room, a stylish waterfront restaurant headed by chef Franck Detrait, whose sophisticated menu features a hint of French technique; or in the Living Room, a more casual setting providing breakfast and light meals. We were very well looked after in the Dining Room and I enjoyed the best steak I have ever had in my

life; a David Blackmore Wagyu beef tenderloin with red wine jus and potato puree. I will remember that meal for a long time. A range of Australian and international wines can be found at The Bar, as well as a monthly cocktail created by The Bar’s team of mixologists.

SPA

The Spa at Park Hyatt Sydney offers treatments tailored to each guest. They use iKOU products made in the Blue Mountains of New South Wales. For an incredibly indulgent experience, try the Australian Awakening package, 5.5 hours of pampering including a body scrub, massage, facial, manicure and pedicure. It ends with a spa lunch and glass of champagne on the harbour.

HIGHLIGHTS

The Park Hyatt rooftop is home to a heated swimming pool with spa, private sun deck and

cabanas from which to relish the panoramic views of the harbour and cityscape.

UPGRADE

The Sydney Suite measures an impressive 350 square metres, with a sauna, fireplace, indoor and outdoor dining areas, and a palatial master bathroom, which features an enormous spa bath. The two bedrooms each have custom-made cotton linens and spectacular views over Sydney Harbour.

INSIDER TIP

The hotel offers a number of activities including a weekly Vitality jog around Sydney Harbour and the Royal Botanical Gardens led by a hotel team member; a one-hour Vinyasa yoga class held every Thursday morning; and a private walking tour around The Rocks every Saturday at 1:30pm.

OPERA SUITE BEDROOM

QT CANBERRA QT State Suite

Size: 98 square metres

Price: About A$500 per night

Website: qtcanberra.com.au

Review by: Gary Allen

ABOUT THE HOTEL

QT Canberra has 205 designer guestrooms with luxury amenities such as 24-hour room service. The hotel is in the centre of Canberra, close to the CBD and Capital Hill, and is a 10-minute drive from the airport. We had a large contemporary two-bedroom suite on the 13th floor with amazing sunset views over to the Telstra tower. Our suite came with a kitchen, dining room, bar, loungeroom guest toilet, and two bedrooms with ensuites. It felt more like a luxury apartment than a hotel suite.

UNIQUE FEATURES

The hotel houses a classic Barber Shop, with antique barber

chairs and professional services encompassing haircuts and razor shaves.

DINING

The Capitol Bar & Grill under the QT hotel offers an extensive menu and is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. The Italian-themed restaurant has signature antipasto plates

and prime cut steaks cooked on a wood-fired grill. We all chose the Crispy Whiskey Buttermilk Chicken and it was a unanimous winner. Another thumbs-up to the side dishes: macaroni and cheese with truffle and four cheeses, crabcakes, and a creamy clam chowder. The QT Lounge is an invitation-only member’s

lounge with a full-service bar and snack menu, on the top floor of QT Canberra. The hotel also is home to the popular Lucky’s Speakeasy, an art decothemed bar.

HIGHLIGHTS

The bed was incredible, the pillows, sheets and mattress all top-notch.

ABOUT THE HOTEL

Ritz-Carlton Macau is an all-suite hotel with 254 guest suites decorated in a colour palette that matches the elegant interior design. The hotel has a huge range of entertainment facilities, including a casino, luxury shopping facilities, a water park, and a 10-screen, 3D Cineplex. Guests can also visit the state-ofthe-art fitness centre and outdoor swimming pools.

UNIQUE FEATURES

The exclusive club lounge is open 24 hours a day, and provides highly personalised service including limousine drop-off service, five food and beverage presentations a day, complimentary pressing services on arrival, use of the library and boardroom, and in-room check-in. The RitzCarlton Macau also houses Ritz Kids, a kids’ club with fun and

RITZ-CARLTON MACAU

Suite: Carlton Two Bedroom Suite

Size: About 137 square metres

Price: From MOP7,888 (about A$1,387) per night

Website: ritzcarlton.com

Review by: Gary Allen

inspirational activities for younger guests.

DINING

The hotel offers several dining options, including Lai Heen, serving handcrafted Cantonese dishes in five private dining rooms, for a more intimate experience. French cuisine and fresh seafood is served at The Ritz-Carlton café, while the Bar & Lounge offers à la carte breakfast and afternoon tea during the day, and Asian tapas in the evening. There’s also the

Ritz-Carlton Pool Bar, which provides casual alfresco dining inside a white willow wood cabana, located on the pool deck.

SPA

Relaxation and privacy is ensured at the hotel’s spa, ESPA, which has 10 treatment rooms and three couples’ suites with vitality pools, steam rooms, ice-fountains and experience showers. It feels so far from everyone outside, dark and quiet and incredibly relaxing.

HIGHLIGHTS

There is so much to do that its hard to be bored. For a family visiting, the pools will be a big hit. Waterfalls and slides with a current pool where you can grab an inter tube floaty and just ride along. The restaurants are all fantastic with the Chinese options being a true experience and very authentic. The bar is a must experience for specialty drinks and entertainment.

COULD DO BETTER

A few more breakfast options in the club level would have been nice to have.

INSIDER TIP

Being such a large hotel, it’s best to upgrade to the club level as it will be far more private and quiet. Choose the Chinese restaurants on offer at the hotel, as they are truly authentic.

ABOUT THE HOTEL

Above the busy streets of Hong Kong, The Upper House is an enchanting and calming haven that sits atop mega-mall Pacific Place. The interior, designed by interior architect Andre Fu, uses natural materials and subtle lighting to create a serene atmosphere of modern luxury. A number of contemporary Asian artworks complement Fu’s design, including sandstone, ceramic and bronze sculptures. The Upper House’s location on Queensway is ideal for exploring Hong Kong .

UPPER HOUSE HONG KONG Upper Suite

Size: 114 square metres

Price: From HK$17,000 (about A$2,973) per night

Website: upperhouse.com

Review by: Gary Allen

UNIQUE FEATURES

Picked up at the airport by our driver, we are handed a menu and asked to choose something to eat, which will be waiting for us in our room on arrival. This sets the tone for our experience at Upper House, which was warm and

inviting. Even our check-in was easy and streamlined, completed in our room using an iPad.

DINING

The hotel’s restaurant and bar, Cafe Grey, is beautiful and located on the 48th and top floor. It offers

modern European dining and panoramic views of the parks, city and across the harbour to Kowloon. It has a very active bar scene and Sunday brunch should not be missed. Breakfast is à la carte with plenty to choose from. Those relaxing on The Lawn, a secluded garden on the sixth floor, can order from a small menu of picnic treats and cocktails.

SPA

The hotel doesn’t have a spa.

HIGHLIGHTS

The bathroom is particularly spectacular, with a large oval free-

standing tub and shower. There is a large flat-screen TV built into the glass panels in the bathroom that you can watch if you tire of the views of either the harbour or the Peak, depending on where you are standing.

COULD DO BETTER

There are few facilities, with no pool or spa, and only a small gym.

UPGRADE

Guests can opt to stay in the penthouse, with spectacular city and harbour views. The 182-square-metre space features a living room, two bedrooms and ensuite bathrooms, all furnished with bespoke pieces and original artworks.

INSIDER TIP

Take advantage of complimentary revitalising yoga sessions held every Saturday and Sunday morning on The Lawn, led by Yoga master Wayne Yeh. Yoga mats, towels and water are all provided by the hotel.

CAIRNS | GREAT BARRIER REEF

Just 45 minutes from Cairns by Fast Cat, Fitzroy Island is nestled on a slice of tropical island paradise, positioned where the reef and rainforest collide. The 4 1/2 star resort is the ideal location for discovering the Great Barrier Reef, come for the day or stay overnight.

ACTIVITIES INCLUDE: GLASS BOTTOM BOAT | DIVING | SNORKELLING | KAYAKING | TOURS OF THE TURTLE CENTRE

EXCLUSIVE OFFER Ocean Suite from $236 per room per night

- 4 nights accommodation in an Ocean Suite

- Return transfers from Cairns

- 1 day Snorkel & Fin hire

- 1 hour Kayak hire

Use

code LTM15

- Daily vouchers for cooked breakfast at the price of continental

Lifestyle

+ Wine + Food + Design.

THIS ISSUE / DESIGN HOTEL IN GEORGIA / CHEF'S GUIDE TO BANGKOK WITH DAVID THOMPSON / EPICUREAN TRAVELS IN BODRUM , TURKEY PLUS / GLOBAL KITCHEN – ITALIAN RECIPES FROM LOMBARDY / CELEBRITY TRAVELLER: PIERCE BROSNAN, BOND... JAMES BOND / EPICUREAN TRAVELS...THE LATEST NEWS FROM THE WORLD OF FINE FOOD & DRINKS.

RUSTIC GEORGIA

Nestled at the foot of the spectacular Caucasus Mountains in northern Georgia, Rooms Hotel Kazbegi was designed by Tsbilisi-based duo Nata Janberidze and Keti Toloraia, who acted as both architects of and interior designers to the sleek retreat. The geometric structure was designed to blend in to the surrounding woodlands, employing subtle timber materials with glass and steel. Floor-to-ceiling windows link the interiors with the surrounding beauty. Janberidze and Toloriaia have used a minimalist design for the interiors that emulates Georgia’s Asian and European heritage. Rustic rugs and furnishings from Belgian brand Flamant punctuate the raw wood floors, while the abundance of fireplaces and plush

couches aim to give a warm and inviting atmosphere. The 156 guestrooms feature a palette of mushroom and taupe with the occasional dash of colour, adding character to the otherwise minimalistic design. The hotel’s restaurant specialises in traditional Georgian cuisine, as well as a bar serving premium wines and spirits – plus a cigar menu. Guests can take advantage of the wide sun terrace that overlooks the dramatic landscape, explore the library and the casino, or have a swim in the indoor pool. Outdoor activities include quad-biking and heli-skiing. For a cultural excursion, visit the nearby landmark Gergeti Trinity Church. Room rates start from A$288 per night. designhotels.com

A CUT ABOVE

AT AN ARTS-FOCUSSED HOTEL IN HONG KONG, Beatrice Spence DISCOVERS A GROOVY ROOFTOP VIBE.

Astay at ovolo southside’s restaurant cirqle is filled not just with resident guests but also Hong Kong locals drawn by the exciting modern cuisine from Chef Krzysztof Bandel. Whether it be for an intimate dinner, a friend’s birthday or a business brunch Cirqle is an ideal location with bar/share tables or table seating. The outdoor terrace is lovely, spacious and summery: perfect for breakfast. On Sundays the endless barbecue with free-flowing champagne and all day band on the terrace is not to be missed.

The restaurant inside is all cool casual. Watch the chefs at work in the open kitchen while you sip on a cocktail. Chef Bandel brings delicious and unexpected pairings of food from around the world such as merguez sausage with orecchiettte pasta or seared

pigeon with marquez sausage. Even a straightforward fettuccine bolognese is an East meets West meal at Cirqle with a spicy Asian twist. Top quality produce is sourced from all around the world so that plates like 16oz corn fed Nebraska rib eye can feature, together with Scottish salmon and Australian lamb.

Finish with desert in the restaurant or head up to Above bar. The Above bar has a groovy industrial feel with live DJs and panaromic views across Wong Chuk Hang. Party on late with cocktails and desserts on offer.

OVOLO

l STAY HERE

Corner room rates start from HK$1,400 (about A$228) per night. ovolohotels.com

ANCIENT ATTRACTION

BODRUM HAS ATTRACTED TOURISTS SINCE THE TIME OF ALEXANDER THE GREAT AND THE PERSIANS. Michael Shaw EXPLORES THIS BEAUTIFUL COAST’S EQUALLY ENTICING CUISINE.

Long gone are the days when only backpackers went to Bodrum. It’s now one of the hottest places to be seen and luxury travellers are well catered for. The proof is in all the private jets at the airport and the superyachts moored in the bays. The Greeks knew they were onto something special when they settled what was then called Hallicarnassos around 1,000BC. Alexander the Great had designs on the place, as did Persian satrap Mausolos who created the Mausoleum of Mausolus, a great wonder of the ancient world. Even the Crusaders came and stayed.

These days you can enjoy the views with a sunset raki or a good Turkish rosé, feet in the sand at a beach cafe. Further around the

Bodrum Peninsula are gorgeous bays that still seem undiscovered if you arrive before peak season. As with most of the Mediterranean, it can be hot in summer and those beautiful bays fill with yachts and the bars and cafes overflow. The transition seasons are best, in late May and early June, or September and October, and many places are closed in winter.

The enchanting drone of the muezzin is a reminder of the relaxed tolerance of the Turkish people. Bodrum town is a bustling little place with an enormous marina surrounded by bars and cafes. Better are the smaller villages and bays with their orchards of pomegranate and fig, lemons, stone fruit and olives.

There also are treasures of the

Where to stay / Bodrum

table to be discovered. Conversing with a local, you see how deep the food culture really is. The local bazaars travel from town to town and have inspiring local produce. Purslane is a popular local ingredient. Forget what you think you know about baklava. Borek is served with a dip of mix of raw minced garlic, olive oil and paprika. When made fresh it is sublime.

AMANRUYA

Amanruya by Aman Resorts is an Ottoman palace, but with every convenience of modernity. Slick and incredibly comfortable, the beauty of the architecture is astounding. There is nothing modest in the sense of proportion. The 36 “cottages” are spacious and beautifully appointed, and as with the rest of the resort, of a design deeply rooted in local culture. Each cottage has its own courtyard and pool surrounded by lawn and the fragrance of thyme. Rates start from €826 (about A$1,323) per night. aman.com/resorts/amanruya

MAÇAKIZI HOTEL

Turkbuku is arguably the most beautiful bay on the peninsula, with untouched islands offshore. Tucked below the massif at the far end of the bay, among cascades of bougainvillea and oleander, lies Maçakizi (“the Ace of Spades”). Part hipster hotel and part chic beach club, it has music and fine food on a casual deck dining area with spectacular views. There is a modern hammam and gym, yoga and Pilates on offer. Rates start from €459 (about A$735) per night. macakizi.com

CASA DELL’ARTE

The tone is set from outside with classic cars parked in front of the ancient door, but once inside all becomes obvious. The owners of the property are serious collectors of Turkish and European modern and contemporary art. There are pieces everywhere, a small gallery at every turn, and artists in residence hold workshops. In-house dining is limited at times, but there is a seafood restaurant close by. The great feature of this casa is its resident yachts. Take one for a week and explore. Rates start from TL660 (about A$313) per night. casadellartebodrum.com

BAKLAVA

IMAM BAYILDI

NADIR KEKLIK KATERINA BELAYA

You may have tried many of these foods before, but here, in the hands of specialist makers they come alive. For kunefe (that blend of shredded wheat, tasty cheese and honey) or baklava, try the specialist shops in the alleys of Bodrum. A favourite is cream-filled and rolled in a fine layer of mostly pistachio pastry. The food is robust and rustic, but wonderfully fresh and

flavoursome. Try the Imam bayildi (“the Imam blushed”, a meat-filled roast aubergine dish that made me blush with excitement. Manti, a tiny bishop’s mitre-shaped, meatfilled dumpling, served topped with yoghurt, olive oil and sprinkled with paprika was truly heavenly.

In Bodrum, dine at Mimoza (mimozagumusluk.com), but have an aperitif next door at Limon Café (limongumusluk.com) first. It has the best romantic sunset views on the peninsula. Orfoz (orfoz.net) offers extraordinary seafood, and Maçakizi has not only a brilliant lunch buffet, but menus for lunch and dinner. Resident chef Aret Sahakyan has a wide-ranging menu emphasising the wonderful local produce - and

Michelin-starred chefs are regular guests in his kitchen.

The local wine industry, under government monopoly sine 1927, was boosted by deregulation and the growth of tourism in the 1980s. Having grafted to some very old rootstock they are producing excellent grapes, and with modern winemaking techniques, have had outstanding results. The local chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and pinot blanc, alone or blended, are worth consideration. Petit verdot, malbec and merlot share the red

wine stage with a quite muscular cabernet sauvignon. Gulor, Sarafin and buyulubag red wines were also very palatable. And we enjoyed a vintage Kayra chardonnay in particular.

BODRUM, TURKEY l GETTING THERE

Turkish Airlines flies from Sydney, Brisbane, Melbourne and Perth to Bodrum via Bangkok and Istanbul. Return economy fares are priced at A$2,104 and return business class from A$8,034. Flying time is between 26 and 30 hours, including stopovers. turkishairlines.com/en-au

MANTI

BODRUM

SYRIA IRAQ

GEORGIA

ISTANBUL

GORKEM DEMIR

a

in Bangkok discovering the flavours of Thai food. Returning home to Sydney, Thompson opened Darley Street Thai in 1992 and Sailors’ Thai three years later. He was then invited to create a Thai restaurant at The Halkin by COMO hotel in London, opening Nahm in 2001. The restaurant was awarded a Michelin star within six months of opening (the first Michelin ever to be bestowed on a Thai restaurant outside Thailand). In 2010, Thompson opened Nahm in Bangkok where he has developed a loyal following, including many locals. Thompson will be appearing at this year’s Margaret River Gourmet Escape, hosting ‘An International Cabernet Celebration at Cape Mentelle’ on Friday 20 November 2015.

ACCLAIMED CHEF David Thompson LISTS HIS TOP 10 FAVOURITE EATERIES IN BANGKOK.

Australian chef David Thompson’s Nahm restaurant at hotel Metropolitan by COMO in Bangkok is the top-ranked eatery in Asia on S. Pellegrino’s World’s 50 Best Restaurants’ list. He spent his early years as

chef

# 1

OYSTER OMELETTE

Located in Chinatown, this is my favourite place of all in Bangkok. It’s absolutely scrumptious!

# 2

YAOWARAT ROAD DURIAN

Also in Chinatown, opposite Dtalart Gao, which means “old market”, this place has the best durians in town, especially the long-stalked ones, known as garn yao. Durian is one of my favourite meals, hands down.

# 3

APPIA

On Sukhumvit Soi 31, this is one of my favourite places to eat when I get bored with Thai food. It’s a delicious Roman trattoria that’s worth negotiating the Bangkok traffic for.

# 4

OR TOR KOR (OTK) MARKET

In Thanon Kamphaengphet, this is quite the tourist trap, but still terrific, open every day from about 10am and closing around 4pm. You can ride the sky train or BTR underground there, but a taxi is much easier. It has some of the best produce in Bangkok. You can source fantastic meats, including sausages and grilled pork, as well as curries. They also have the most refreshing, fresh sugar cane juice, made using rollers. There’s also an Aladdin’s Cave of fruit with some of the best lychees in the world.

#

5 SOI LINCHI

Behind the Metropolitan Hotel, this place serves absolutely delicious pad see ew – stir-fried rice noodles with egg, pork and Chinese broccoli.

OR TOR KOR (OTK) MARKET

# 6

SAM YAN MARKET

This local market has lots of fresh vegetables, great fish and food shops. It’s where to eat in the daytime.

# 7

BAAN KLANG NAM

In Bangkok Square at Jatujak Market on Rama III Road. This place has great seafood that is simple and delicious, especially the deep-fried grouper with fish sauce.

# 8

SIAM PARAGON

Shopping malls should not always be disdained and there are some surprisingly good restaurants at Siam Paragon on Rama I Road. Four Season does amazing roast duck, and on the fourth floor there is a great beef noodle place.

# 9

NAHM AT METROPOLITAN BY COMO, BANGKOK

Of course I’ll recommend my own restaurant. But if you don’t eat here, try Bo.lan on Sukhumvit Soi 53. They change their menu often, but there is a always something fantastic to eat.

# 10

KRUA APSORN

Just up from the National library on Samsen Road, Apsorn’s Kitchen serves some of the best Thai street food in the world. I believe they have the best crab, stir-fried in curry powder. It’s always busy for a reason - you won’t find fresher food!

A CHEF'S GUIDE TO...

NAHM AT HOTEL METROPOLITAN / COCONUT CUPCAKES

A LOMBARDIAN COOKBOOK

LOMBARDY SITS IN THE NORTH OF ITALY BETWEEN THE ALPS, HILLS AND LAKES. HOME TO RENOWNED ITALIAN FOOD SUCH AS PANETTONE AND RISOTTO MILANESE, IT IS ALSO THE HOME OF CHEF Alessandro Pavoni OF SYDNEY’S ORMEGGIO AT THE SPIT. IN A LOMBARDIAN COOKBOOK, PAVONI, ALONG WITH CO-AUTHOR Roberta Muir, SHARES MORE THAN 100 RECIPES BASED ON THE RICH PRODUCE OF THE REGION.

PUMPKIN GNOCCHI WITH GORGONZOLA SAUCE

Lara is the founder and director of the Sydney Italian Food & Wine Festival. She has worked as a sommelier in top Sydney restaurants for 14 years, including Aria and Pilu at Freshwater, where her wine list was awarded the 2010 Wine List of the Year by The Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide.

GNOCCHI DI ZUCCA AL GORGONZOLA

Pumpkin gnocchi with gorgonzola sauce

serves: eight

“One of my cousins married a Mantuan, and I remember looking forward to visiting them in Mantua as we always got to enjoy their different regional specialities, even though they only lived 45 minutes away. This style of gnocchi is traditional to Mantua, as they grow a lot of pumpkins. Their pumpkins are a lot drier and more floury than Australian ones. In Australia, the type of pumpkin available often depends on the season, and the moisture content varies a lot between different types, and even from pumpkin to pumpkin, depending on how long they’ve been stored. Sometimes, if there’s a lot of moisture in the purée, I wrap it in muslin and hang it over a bowl in the restaurant cool room to drain for a while.”

the ingredients

1kg russet or other floury potatoes, scrubbed

2.2kg butternut pumpkin, cut into eighths and seeds removed rock salt, as needed

1 and ²/³ cups (250g) plain flour, plus extra for dusting

250g cornflour, plus extra if needed

250g Grana Padano, freshly grated fine salt

2 eggs

1 cup (250 ml) water

100g unsalted butter

24 sage leaves

300g gorgonzola dolce, diced

the preparation

Preheat the oven to 180 degrees Celsius. Place the potatoes and pumpkin on a bed of rock salt on a baking tray and bake for

one to one-and-a-half hours, or until a wooden skewer can be inserted into a potato without any resistance. Remove from the oven, cut the potatoes in half and immediately press, flesh-side down, through a potato ricer, onto a clean, dry workbench lightly dusted with extra flour, spreading it out on the bench. Remove the pumpkin skin and press the flesh through the ricer onto the potato. Leave to cool for a few minutes.

Sift the combined plain flour and cornflour over the top, sprinkle with 200 grams of the Grana and fine salt to taste and break the eggs into the centre. Using a pastry scraper and your hands, work the mixture until the dough just comes together; don’t overwork it, add a little more cornflour if it’s too moist.

Shape the dough into a four-centimetre-high brick, cut lengthways into one centimetrethick slices. Cut each slice into one centimetre-thick strips and roll gently with your hands to form logs. Cut the logs into one centimetre-thick pieces.

Bring a large heavy-based saucepan of salted water to the boil. Add the gnocchi and cook for one to two minutes or until they rise to the surface.

Meanwhile, combine the water, butter and sage leaves in a heavybased frying pan over medium heat. As the gnocchi rise to the surface, scoop them up with a slotted spoon, drain well and add to the frying pan. Gently toss for a couple of minutes to coat well.

Remove from the heat, add the gorgonzola and remaining Grana and continue tossing until the cheese has melted. Transfer to a platter or divide among plates and serve.

l drink

2013 CA DEI FRATI ‘I FRATI’ TREBBIANO DI LUGANA

Lombardy RRP$42.99

Trebbiano di Lugana, or Turbiana, as it is known in Lombardy, is a native northern Italian variety that has been found by DNA testing to be identical to the Trebbiano di Soave of the Veneto, and Verdicchio from the Marche. Turbiana produces a rich, dry white wine that retains a clear line of acidity. This un-oaked version shows clean dried fruit, nut and herbal characters, possessing enough palate weight to stand up to the strong character of the gorgonzola; while its crisp finish prevents this food/wine pairing becoming heavy in the mouth.

l RECIPES AND IMAGES FROM A LOMBARDIAN COOKBOOK BY ALESSANDRO PAVONI AND ROBERTA MUIR, WITH PHOTOGRAPHY BY CHRIS CHEN. PUBLISHED BY LANTERN, RRP A$59.99. AVAILABLE NOW.

l WINE RECOMMENDATIONS BY OUR GUEST SOMMELIER

LARA CARATURO

GLOBAL KITCHEN

PORCHETTA ALLO SPIEDO

Pork belly roasted on the spit with apple salad

Serves: 12

“This is the perfect dish to serve a crowd, and makes a great centrepiece for a gathering of family and friends. I like to dryage all meat, in particular pork belly, because it helps to make the skin crisp. Order the pork belly one week in advance and ask your butcher to dry-age it for you. This dish can be eaten hot or cold, and is delicious thinly sliced in a panino (bread roll).”

the ingredients

1× 2kg pork belly, skin on 500g fine salt

2 tbsp salt flakes

Half tsp freshly ground black pepper

10 sprigs rosemary, leaves finely chopped

1 potato, scrubbed and cut in half (optional)

Apple salad

2 red apples

4 large handfuls (about 4 cups)

lamb’s ear lettuce

100g Grana Padano, freshly shaved

Chardonnay vinegar, for drizzling

Extra virgin olive oil, for drizzling

Salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

the preparation

Place the pork on a tray, skin-side up, and cover the skin with fine salt. Refrigerate for six hours, then brush off the salt.

To butterfly the pork, slice it widthways almost all the way through. Open it up and spread the salt flakes, pepper and rosemary over the flesh. Roll it up like a Swiss roll, as tightly as possible so that only the skin is showing on the outside, if possible. Loop a piece of kitchen twine lengthways around the centre of the roll and tie it, then turn the roll 90 degrees and loop the twine around again. Tie it off, then tie around the circumference

of the roll at four-centimetre intervals. When you get to the end, go back the other way, placing the twine diagonally between each section.

Thread a rotisserie fork (or half a potato), onto the barbecue spit, then thread the rolled pork on lengthways and finish with a rotisserie fork (or remaining half of the potato), to hold it firmly in place.

Place over a cold barbecue, place a metal tray underneath the spit (a disposable aluminium one is fine), then turn the heat on to low. Cover and cook for one hour 45 minutes, checking occasionally that the roll is securely attached to the spit and browning evenly; if not, carefully reposition the pork on the spit. Increase the heat to medium, poke holes in the skin with a carving fork to release some of the fat (this will help crisp the skin), and cook for another two hours. Turn the heat off and leave, with the lid closed, for 30 minutes; the pork will continue to cook in the residual heat in this time.

Meanwhile, to make the apple salad, thinly slice the apples and combine with the lettuce, Grana, a drizzle each of vinegar and oil, and salt and pepper to taste.

Remove the twine from the pork, cut into one centimetrethick slices and serve with the apple salad. Discard (or eat!) the potato.

l drink

2012 MAZZEI ‘ZISOLA’ NERO D’AVOLA Sicily RRP$38

Nero d’Avola, known as the Shiraz of Sicily, is the island’s most widely grown native red variety; producing a range of styles that go from juicy and plump, through to big structured, heavily oaked examples. Located near Noto in south-eastern Sicily, the Zisola Estate is owned by the iconic wine-producing Mazzei family of Tuscany, who have been making wine at their Fonterutoli Estate since 1435. Grown on alberello (bush) vines, this wine is aged in small French barrels for 10 months, resulting in a seamless blend of fruit/ oak with characteristic spicy cherry/plum fruit. I find any type of slow-cooked pork will benefit from a red wine rich in sweet fruit flavours; this dish would also suit a medium to full-bodied Australian shiraz or grenache.

This dish can be eaten hot or cold, and is delicious thinly sliced in a panino (bread roll).”

BUDINO DI RICOTTA Ricotta pudding

serves: 12

“If you can, use a patterned savarin mould with a hole in the centre (also called a budino mould), as it makes for a very attractive presentation. You could also make this pudding in a baking dish and either turn it out or serve it straight from the dish, if that is easier – it may not look as fancy but will still taste great. This recipe makes a large pudding, but leftovers will keep well, covered and refrigerated, for several days. It’s delicious as a snack, with coffee, or even for breakfast. The ingredients can also be halved if you only have a smaller mould or want to make less. The ricotta needs to be quite dry for this dish; if it’s very fresh it may make the pudding too wet so wrap it in a piece of clean muslin, then hang it overnight in the refrigerator with a bowl underneath to catch the excess liquid.”

the ingredients

100g sultanas

¼ cup (60 ml) brandy

Unsalted butter, for buttering

Plain flour, for dusting

10 eggs, separated

¾ cup (165g) caster sugar

1kg fresh well-drained ricotta

pinch of fine salt

200g candied fruit, diced

Finely grated zest of 2 lemons

200g dark chocolate, finely chopped

the preparation

Place the sultanas and brandy in a bowl and leave for three hours to soak.

Preheat the oven to 120 degrees Celsius. Butter and flour a four litre-capacity savarin mould.

Using an electric mixer, whisk the egg yolks and sugar until thick, pale and fluffy. Add the ricotta and whisk until smooth, then transfer to a large bowl.

Rinse and dry the whisk and the bowl of the electric mixer, then whisk the egg whites and salt until very firm peaks form.

Meanwhile, squeeze the sultanas to remove the excess

brandy, discarding the brandy, then gently fold them into the egg yolk mixture with the candied fruit and lemon zest. Fold in the egg white in batches, being careful not to over-mix it.

Pour the mixture into the prepared mould and gently tap it on a workbench to level it. Bake for one hour or until the centre is firm to the touch. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool.

Meanwhile, just before serving, melt the chocolate in a small heavy-based saucepan over low heat. Unmould the pudding onto a serving plate, drizzle with the melted chocolate and serve.

MARCHESE’ VIN SANTO Tuscany 500ml RRP$62

A dish like this needs a wine that is not too sweet, an unfortunate trait of many Australian dessert wines. Vin Santo, or holy wine, is a traditional Tuscan style produced by semi-drying the grapes before crushing, with the finished wine aged in oak barrels anywhere up to 12 years before release. During this period, evaporation, or the ‘angel’s share’, causes a loss of up 75 per cent of the wine, with oxidation adding extra drying characteristics to the wine. This Vin Santo is amber in colour with dried fruit and nut flavours that will integrate with the candied fruit and chocolate of the budino.

This recipe makes a large pudding, but leftovers will keep well, covered and refrigerated, for several days. It’s delicious as a snack, with coffee, or even for breakfast.

RICOTTA PUDDING

l COCKTAILS SHAKEN NOT STIRRED

The best place for a classic Bond martini has to be Dukes bar in St James, London. It was here that Ian Fleming, author and creator of the James Bond character, reportedly coined the famous line ‘shaken not stirred’ after a regular session at the bar. Dukes serves several signature martinis from a drinks trolley with their most famous being Ian Fleming’s Classic Vesper, named after the Vesper Lloyd, the Casino Royale Bond girl played by Eva Green. Martini masterclasses are also offered. dukeshotel.com

l NEW RESTAURANT AMAN TOKYO CAFÉ

The Café by Aman, part of Aman’s urban property in Tokyo, is on the ground floor of the Otemachi Tower in the CBD. A Mediterranean-inspired menu features fresh local and seasonal produce, including Japanese meats, Iberian hams and fresh seafood, resulting in modern Japanese cuisine. Guests can dine outdoors on the terrace, surrounded by the lush greenery of the manmade Otemachi Forest. aman.com/resorts/aman-tokyo

MEDICINAL BRANDY

Coinciding with the brand’s 90th anniversary, iconic Australian brandy distillery St Agnes has released two ultra-premium XOs; the XO Imperial 20-year-old (RRP A$200) and XO Grand Reserve 40-year-old (RRP A$785) – distilled in South Australia. Available at selected Dan Murphy’s stores, leading independent national retailers, or stagnesdistillery.com.au

l ICE-COLD BOND LICENCE TO CHILL

Scenes for the new James Bond film Spectre were recently filmed at Ice Q restaurant – in the Austrian ski resort Gaislachkogl. Opened in 2013, it is perched on the summit 3,048 metres above sea level and accessed via gondola. The glass walls of the cuboid building make the most of the spectacular view across the Ötztal Mountains. For a luxury dining experience, guests can book the Summit Dinner, held under the sky accompanied by musical performances and wines from the surrounding regions. soelden.com/iceq

DINING GUILLAUME JOINS RELAIS & CHÂTEAUX

Sydney restaurant Guillaume has become the newest culinary member of Relais & Châteaux. In an historic site in Sydney suburb Paddington, the restaurant joins more than 500 of the world’s top rated, luxury small hotels and restaurants, and just five Australian member properties. The 90-seat restaurant opened in August 2014, after extensive renovations of the heritage three-storey building. The menu reflects chef and owner Guillaume Brahimi’s passion for quality Australian produce. Brahimi moved to Australia in the 1990s from Paris, where he worked for acclaimed chef Joel Robuchon. His restaurants have included twohatted Pond in Potts Point, Quay, which held three hats, and from 2001 until 2013, the three-hatted Guillaume at Bennelong at Sydney Opera House. guillaumes.com.au

l LIMITED RELEASE

JOHNNIE WALKER LIMITED EDITION

Johnnie Walker has launched the John Walker Philip Lawson Johnston Limited Edition: a collaboration with Philip Lawson Johnston (pictured), specialist glass engraver by appointment to Queen Elizabeth II. The handcrafted bottles mark a shared commitment to skill and craftsmanship between Johnston and John Walker & Sons. Exclusively available through Johnnie Walker House whisky embassies. RRP RMB 23,759 (about A$5,187). johnniewalker.com

l TOURING RESTAURANT NOMA AT BARANGAROO

World-renowned Danish restaurant Noma will relocate to Barangaroo in Sydney for 10 weeks, from January 2016. Chef René Redzepi and the Noma team have designed an original menu utilising sustainable Australian produce, selected during several countrywide visits facilitated by Tourism Australia. Noma will be located in the Anadara building on the waterfront. Book at noma.dk/australia

l SYDNEY FINE

l CRUISE RAISE A GLASS

APT Luxury Touring & Cruising has recruited a number of leading figures from the Australian wine industry as Wine Ambassadors to host exclusive departures throughout Europe in 2016. The Ambassadors will facilitate tastings of regional wines, dinners complemented with locally paired wines, vineyard and winery excursions, and teach the nuances of traditional European winemaking. Each of the ambassadors will host their own itiner-

l LUXURY TRAVEL PICK DINING UNDER THE SPRING MOON

Spring Moon restaurant at the Peninsula Hong Kong serves pure Cantonese cuisine crafted by executive chef Frankie Tang. Signature dishes include wok-fried tiger prawns in a chicken broth, Kagoshima beef fillet with black pepper, and BBQ pork and goose. The restaurant began producing its XO sauce in 1986, when it first opened. The sauce combines chillies, dried shrimps and scallops in a highly sought-after secret recipe. hongkong.peninsula.com

l SPECIAL RELEASE BELVEDERE MEETS BOND

In the newest Bond movie, 007 will have his martinis made exclusively with Belvedere Vodka. Belvedere has released a limited edition bottle in celebration of the film, featuring the 007 logo. Available from 1 October until 31 December. RRP A$69.99 belvederevodka.com

l LIMITED EDITION DRESSED TO KILL

To celebrate the release of the newest James Bond film Spectre, Bollinger has launched a limited-edition Dressed to Kill gift box (RRP A$299) inspired by 007’s legendary tuxedo. The 2009 vintage Bollinger cuvée, a blend of pinot noir and chardonnay, will only be released in this limited-edition bottle. The gift box also has a cooling element that keeps the bottle chilled for up to two hours following refrigeration. Bollinger and Bond have a long association, dating back to Live and Let Die (1973). Spectre will be the 15th film where Bollinger has been the champagne of choice for 007, marking a 40-year partnership between the two brands. Available from Dan Murphy’s stores. champagne-bollinger.com

TASMANIAN SPARKLE

House of Arras in Tasmania is celebrating two decades of wine-making with the release of the 1998 House of Arras 20th Anniversary Late Disgorged, the first created by the brand. Only 200 bottles have been produced, to be released this October, and represent the best that Tasmanian terroir has to offer. Chief winemaker Ed Carr (pictured), Australia’s most awarded sparkling winemaker, crafted the wine with fruit from the Tamar Estuary, Lower Derwent and Coal River Valley. Available from Dan Murphy’s, it will be Australia’s most premium sparkling wine, with an RRP of A$350. danmurphys.com.au

MATT MORAN @ TASTING ON HASTINGS

Tastings on Hastings will be held in Port Macquarie from 6-8 November. Themed ‘Fire, Water, Harvest,’ the celebration will include a night festival, celebrity chef dinners, cooking demonstrations and masterclasses, with produce from 100 local producers. Headlining chef Matt Moran from Sydney’s Aria restaurant will host two fine-dining experiences at the Stunned Mullet restaurant overlooking Town Beach. tastingsonhastings. com.au

EATING LATE

InterContinental Sydney has launched a Supper Club offering 27 varieties of champagne and late night dining. Open from 9pm, Wednesday through Saturday, the club is available exclusively to Club InterContinental members and hotel guests. Prior bookings essential. icsydney.com.au/dine-drink/cisupperclub

l LIMITED RELEASE

l SUPPER CLUB

l FOODIE EVENT

PIERCE BROSNAN

THE FORMER 007 TALKS TO Luxury Travel MAGAZINE ABOUT HIS TIME AS JAMES BOND AND HIS JET-SETTING LIFE.

What was your favourite James Bond movie location? Oh, there were so many! Chamonix in France is a particularly beautiful part of the world. And I actually enjoyed filming in London.

What have been some of the best hotels in which you've stayed? Ritz Paris is my favourite, closely followed by The Hassler in Rome. They are hotels full of history, with so much romance. They’ve come to represent their cities, as well as be a part of them.

What was your best James Bond driving experience and in which car? Any time I was driving the Aston Martin Vanquish. They gave it to me after I finished, which was very good of them. I still have it. It is a beautiful car.

Where do you like to holiday and what’s the first thing you do when you arrive? I love being in our house in Kauai in Hawaii. It’s a form of paradise on earth. We have a very beautiful cottage by the sea, fairly isolated, and very peaceful. I like to describe it as

Ireland except the heating is turned on! I get up at six o’clock, I make myself a cup of coffee, sit on the terrace and watch the waves roll onto the beach. Then I’ll have breakfast with Keely and the boys and spend the rest of the morning painting. Then it’s lunchtime, maybe a few hours of surfing, reading, relaxing in the sun, and then before you know it, you go, “What’s for dinner?”

It’s a very simple and peaceful life. There are very few things that can trouble you, not even my occasionally dour Irish soul.

In the quest for ever more authentic travel, these days connecting with the locals is a highly desirable travel experience. Do you enjoy doing that? Have you had any interesting local encounters?

I love connecting with the locals. People know me in Hawaii, and I treat people the way they treat me, which is always with courtesy and good fun. I take the same attitude wherever I go - I pack a suitcase and go and share experiences with whatever great new people I meet.

Have you ever been anywhere in the world where you weren’t recognised? Where and when? How did that feel? Was it good or disconcerting?

I tend to get recognised everywhere, but that is fine. I get to meet so many interesting people that way. And similarly, I hope I put the fame thing to one side and people come away feeling good about our meeting. As long as there is no weirdness, I appreciate all the well-wishers. I wouldn’t want to be isolated from the world.

What do you wear when flying?

A linen or a white cotton shirt to stay cool and comfortable.

Is there something you never travel without? Sunglasses are essential. I always take several pairs. I’d be lost without my iPhone and a pair of Bose headphones. And pads and pencils so I can draw.

What’s your favourite city?

New York, just ahead of Paris and London. I love everything about it - the food, the people, the theatre, the whole energy of the city.

CELEBRITY TRAVELLER

Below: With Halle Berry in Die Another Day (2002); Above left: as James Bond in Goldeneye (1995); Above right: Times Square, Manhattan.

NAPA VALLEY OREGON GRAND CANYON HAWAII SAN JUAN ISLANDS

LIEVEN BERTELS

What’s your ultimate holiday destination? The Japanese countryside south of Nara – it’s the cradle of Japanese civilisation and a very different experience from the bustling city life of Kyoto or Tokyo. Around villages such as Asuka you cycle between rice fields, going from one amazing temple to the next.

Where is the most luxurious place you’ve stayed? Probably the Fairmont Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten in Hamburg, which is the epitome of a classic European Grand Hotel. It’s perfect if you want to catch a performance at the nearby Hamburg State Opera.

What’s the most creative city you’ve ever been to? Perhaps an unusual choice but I’d say Dakar, the capital of Senegal. Africa is definitely the continent of the future and cities like Dakar are buzzing with creativity. Resources are scarce (and you don’t go to Dakar for a five-star hotel

experience), but the youthful energy of West Africa is just infectious.

What do you consider to be the cultural capital of Europe? Hands down: Paris. The international theatre, dance and music, the exhibitions and permanent collections, how the city stays connected to all continents, the quality of food and fashion, make it the most cosmopolitan and cultural city in all of Europe.

What’s left on your destination bucket-list? Vietnam and Vancouver Island are high on my wish list. An ultimate dream would be to spend a few days on St. Kilda in the Scottish Outer Hebrides, a tiny island that counted only 36 inhabitants when it was evacuated in 1930 after more than 2,000 years of habitation.

What’s your most memorable front-of-the-plane experience? On long-haul work trips I fly business, but as a frequent

flyer I do get the occasional upgrade. One of the best “Seat 1A” experiences was with China Southern Airlines on their A380 between Guangzhou and Paris – attentive crew and great Cantonese cuisine with Australian wines.

With your musical background, what must-do international music experiences can you recommend? The Glyndebourne Opera is a very civilised experience: dress up, bring (or pre-book) a picnic hamper and mingle with the who’s who of British society on the lawns of the purposebuilt modern opera theatre. Or attend the world’s largest music festival – the Madras Music Season in Chennai, India. With mass crowds and over 1,200 performances of Carnatic music – it’s a once-ina-lifetime cultural experience in one of India’s culinary and musical capitals.

You’re originally from Belgium. Can you recommend a special

dining experience there? My favourite place remains Peter Goossens’ Hof van Cleve. Set in a charming farmhouse and serving modern versions of fine Belgian and French cuisine, it has three Michelin stars and makes regular appearances on the world’s top 50 restaurants list.

What inspiration have you taken from your travels and infused into your work? No matter how far we travel, it’s about people. I try to keep events humansized, to bring personal, memorable experiences and to create true meeting places. Sydney Festival is not just about seeing great arts; it’s about jointly celebrating what our amazing city has to offer with locals and visitors alike. A shared experience is a memory for life!

2016 marks Sydney Festival’s 40th anniversary and will also be Lieven’s final year as festival director. The 2016 program will be released 21 October 2015. sydneyfestival.org.au

CREATIVE TRAVELLER

LIEVEN BERTELS IS THE FESTIVAL DIRECTOR FOR SYDNEY FESTIVAL. HERE HE SHARES WITH Belinda Craigie HIS SOURCES OF INSPIRATION AND HIS TOP CREATIVE TRAVEL EXPERIENCES.