Luxury Travel Magazine - Issue 65

108 TOUR ANTHOLOGY

An Italian foodie tour through Sicily; tour Kimberley wilderness by plane; and the ultimate private jet tour with singer John Legend, pictured above.

110 MAIN EVENT

Your top tickets to the Monaco Grand Prix, Cannes Film Festival, Henley-on-Thames and Rio 2016 Olympic Games.

112 ANNUAL PLANNER

Our calendar guide to the best sporting events of the year.

193 SUITE LIFE, ITALY

Our Italian-themed suite life including Villa d’Este, Grand Hotel Tremezzo, Bellevue Cogne and the Royal Hotel San Remo.

205 DESIGN HOTEL

The Renwick, New York.

207 CHEF’S GUIDE to Los Angeles.

210 GLOBAL KITCHEN Tokyo.

216 EPICUREAN NEWS

The latest from the world of great food and drink.

220 CELEBRITY TRAVELLER George Clooney.

224 CREATIVE TRAVELLER Stylist Megan Morton.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Susan Borham sborham@magnesiummedia.com.au

EXECUTIVE EDITOR

Gary Allen gary.allen@magnesiummedia.com.au

EDITOR

Katrina Holden

SUB EDITOR

Paul Robinson

EDITORIAL ASSISTANT

Belinda Craigie

EDITORIAL INTERN

Phoebe Stenning

ART DIRECTOR

Ivan Chow

ADVISORY BOARD CHAIRMAN

John O’Neill

PUBLISHER

Adam Davy adavy@luxurytravelmag.com.au

+61 423 373 470

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER

Shakira Wood swood@luxurytravelmag.com.au

+61 2 9302 0258

SUBSCRIPTION ENQUIRIES

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EDITORIAL ENQUIRIES

Katrina Holden kholden @luxurytravelmag.com.au

DISTRIBUTION ENQUIRIES

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Luxury Travel magazine telephone +61 2 9302 0255

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CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER

Susan Borham

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CIRCULATION 25,051

Source: AMAA; CAB Total Distribution Audit for further information visit auditedmedia.org.au

Audit Period: 1/10/14 to 31/3/15

CARMEN JENNER

“Gaya Island Resort off Kota

Kinabalu in Borneo. Each villa is so seamlessly set into the rainforest, it’s as though you have the whole island to yourself. It's the ultimate deserted island experience, except, of course, with any request you have fulfilled by staff.”

Carmen headed off track in Western Australia on the Cape to Cape walk. Read her story on page 133.

ROBERT UPE

“Sal Salis, on the Western Australian coast at Ningaloo Reef, is a remote tented eco resort where you can swim with whale sharks and get treated to stunning local gourmet food. There’s an ensuite, jarrah bed and even a hammock at the front – plus the sea views. You’d never believe a beachside tent could be such a delight.”

In this issue, Robert outlines the style, service and aesthetic guests can expect when staying at any of the 30 worldwide Aman Hotels and Resorts properties. Find out if this hotel group is right for you on page 186.

EWEN BELL

“Laucala Island. Co-founder of Red Bull, Dietrich Mateschitz, bought this modest island as his own private getaway complete with airstrip and a fleet of private jets. A handful of villas are dotted along a series of beaches, some on cliff tops and others facing the ocean. The beach bar is a work of art, like a 40ft high coconut husk that has been peeled backwards to make room for some excellent Amaretto Sour cocktails and the best kokoda in Fiji.”

Ewen this issue captures for us the beautiful, lesser-visited region of Chiang Mai in northern Thailand where you can stay in luxury and immerse yourself in the land of the elephant on page 34.

CONTRIBUTORS THIS ISSUE

Ewen Bell, Elspeth Callender, Sebastian Crowther, Charlie Ferguson, Christine Forbes Smith, Chris Frame, Kelly Gabriel, Tamara Hinson, Steve Hui, Carmen Jenner, Roslyn Jolly, Lucy Jones, Tatyana Leonov, Keren Levelle, Sandra Nori, Jane Ormond, Michael Pirrie, Richard Powell, Matt Shea, Peter Swain, Robert Upe, Camilla Wagstaff, Penny Watson.

Q: “What is the most luxurious beach destination you have stayed at and what was its wow factor”?

PROUD OF EVERY INDUSTRY ACCOLADE

Humbled by each Thank You

Long before we won our first industry accolade, we had already received the highest praise we could ever wish for. It was a short note written in our first Spicers Peak Lodge guestbook. Since then there have been many more Thank Yous in many more books - each a constant and cherished reminder to make every guest’s stay as unforgettable as possible.

1 Best Culinary Boutique Hotel in Australia - 2015 World Boutique Hotel Awards

1 Best Luxury Accommodation - 2015 QLD Tourism Awards

2 Chef Hats - The Brisbane Times Good Food Guide

2 Wine Glasses - 2015 Gourmet Traveller Wine List Awards

A thousand kind words from our guests.

Discover your unforgettable experience at spicersretreats.com

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Imagine if the only obstacle you faced each morning between your bed and the beach was a private plunge pool. This is a holiday dream come true in just a few resorts across the world. Not many people dream of having to wait for a lift to take them to ground level, or for a buggy to collect them for a bumpy drive through the resort past other guests eating breakfast or heading to the gym… but this is the reality at even some of the world’s most luxurious beach resorts.

This issue, our editor Katrina

follow us on:

Holden has compiled a guide to the world’s best bed to beach properties where, with the right villa request upon booking, your first dip of each day is just a matter of footsteps from where you slept the night before.

In our next issue, out in Autumn, we bring you the winners of our 2016 Luxury Travel Magazine Gold List Awards. Voting throughout February is still open to you, our valued readers, to nominate your favourite luxury travel destinations, properties and tour

operators. Visit luxurytravelmag. com.au/goldlist to vote and go in the draw to win a luxury trip for two to Saffire Freycinet in Tasmania.

Please also take some time when you’re online to visit our totally redesigned, and new-look website at luxurytravelmag.com.au – specially enhanced for viewing from your mobile or tablet device, so you’ll find luxury travel inspiration at all times.

SUSAN BORHAM EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

for the best luxury deals on offer follow @LuxeforLessAU

Travel around our new website

Luxury Travel has a new, mobile-friendly website, where you can read about our journeys to inspiring destinations around the world.

This summer, as you research and plan your next luxury holiday, you can view the latest magazine stories with extended online content direct from our website. Look out for the read more icon which indicates the stories that you can further explore digitally, with additional beautiful images.

Travel with us now at www.luxurytravelmag.com.au

DISPATCHES

THE LATEST LUXURY HOTEL AND RESORT OPENINGS, REFURBISHMENTS AND TRAVEL NEWS.

SURVEY LUXURY TRAVEL TRENDS

In March, The Peninsula New York will unveil its new Fifth Avenue Suite. At 232 sqm, the suite will feature modern design aesthetics that exude the feel of a plush New York apartment, with classic deco details. The one-bedroom suite with study also has a seperate living and dining room with views of Manhattan’s Fifth Avenue from oversized windows. The dining room includes an adjoining gourmet kitchen. The suite can be expanded to include a second bedroom, and combined with a one-bedroom Deluxe Suite to create a three-bedroom suite. The Peninsula New York is located on Fifth Avenue and 55th Street, in midtown Manhattan in a 1905 landmark building. Rates for the Fifth Avenue Suite will start from US$20,000 (about A$27,308) per night. peninsula.com/newyork

Virtuoso, an international network of 375 invitationonly luxury travel agencies, recently released its 2016 Virtuoso Luxe Report with the results of its annual survey anticipating emerging luxury travel developments and destinations. It found that the must-have experiences of 2016 were to discover untouched, unique places, with Cuba emerging as the top destination; creating unforgettable memories for travellers that will outlive the actual experience; ticking an item off the bucket list for the trip of a lifetime, for example, seeing Machu Picchu; pushing the boundaries beyond the comfort zone, for example, an expedition cruise to Antarctica; and enjoying closer-to-home experiences. Top travel trends revealed were multi-generational travel; river cruising; active or adventure trips; luxury cruises and celebratory travel. The top emerging destinations were Cuba, Iceland, Croatia, Myanmar and Antarctica. virtuoso.com

REFURBISHMENT PRIVATE POOL UPGRADE TO THAILAND LUXURY RESORT

Aleenta Phuket Resort & Spa in Phang

Nga on Natai Beach has unveiled 34 new spacious and private pool villas after a recent remodelling. The expansion of the resort includes the construction of a 40m beachfront infinity pool, beach club and waterfront restaurant, as well as a wellness centre. Each of the villas is centred on a separate 8m plunge pool and is designed according to Aleenta’s ‘outdoor living-in’ philosophy, with one side of the villa able to open up completely to create a continuous living space. aleenta.com

WATCH THE PAPILLON HEURE SAUTANTE

Bulgari has released a reintroduction of watchmaker Daniel Roth’s Papillon watch with the new Papillon Heure Sautante . The watch displays time in a distinctive manner, with the hour shown in a window at the 12 o’clock mark and the minutes presented along the bottom half of the face from three o’clock to nine o’clock. The case measures 45mm in diameter and is available in pink or white gold. RRP: US$38,900 (about A$53,600). bulgari.com

NEW OPENING

SAFARI LODGE OPENS IN KENYA

The Angama Mara safari lodge has recently opened on Kenya’s Oloololo Escarpment. Two separate camps are comprised of 15 tented suites each, with floor-to-ceiling windows. The camps are divided by a central pavilion with a fitness room, infinity pool, a curated gallery containing African art and craft, and a studio where Maasai women work beading bespoke items. Guests have views over the Maasai Mara Reserve and access to the reserve’s Mara Triangle, with game viewing via a private track. The area was used for filming scenes from the 1985 film Out of Africa. Other experiences include champagne picnics, customised game drives and walking safaris. Prices start from A$1,100 per person, per night. angama.com

RENTALS LUXURY HOME STAYS

OPENING BAREFOOT LUXURY, BRANSONSTYLE

NEW

Sir Richard Branson has added a new property to his Virgin Limited Edition portfolio of luxury properties, available for rent from early 2016. The Branson Estate is a 51ha, three-villa ecoresort on Moskito Island in the British Virgin Islands in the Caribbean. With accommodation for 22 guests in 11 bedrooms, the property also has a recreation area with various dining options and activities, as well as a wrap-around infinity pool, a spa pool, swim-up bar and tennis pavilion. virginlimitededition.com

Abercrombie & Kent, the luxury tour and travel operator, has recently announced a partnership with Luxico, an exclusive accommodation service in Australia and overseas. Guests staying at any of the Luxico-managed homes will receive five-star service in the home and the chance to live like a local; as well as the A&K Concierge Service when they are at the home, offering such services as dining suggestions and bookings, event access and other special requests. abercrombiekent.com.au

LUXURY

DISPATCHES

NEW

SOFITEL OPENS SECOND SINGAPORE PROPERTY

Designed to reflect the surrounding natural environment at Sentosa, the Sofitel Singapore Sentosa Resort & Spa is now open. The property has 211 rooms and suites, as well as four villas. Features include the world’s largest So Spa, a 33m outdoor swimming pool, 27ha of tropical woodlands and easy access to Tanjong Beach overlooking the South China Sea. There are four food and beverage options, including Kwee Zeen, a casual all-day restaurant serving Asian, Western and French cuisine with ocean views; and The Garden, which has a menu dedicated to healthy cuisine.

sofitel.com/SentosaResortSpa

LUXURY SYDNEY HOTEL LAUNCHES

The centrally located, 1930s heritage-listed building that once housed The Sydney Water Board head office is now home to Primus Hotel Sydney, with 172 rooms and suites. The hotel features a ballroom, rooftop pool and bar, a collection of high-end dining experiences (the restaurant headed by executive chef Ryan Hong). The hotel is the first venture into Australia by Greenland International Hotels Group, which is also developing the tallest residential building in the city, the Greenland Centre. primushotelsydney.com

MOLLYMOOK EXPANDS ITS LUXURY OFFERING

Coastal boutique hotel Bannisters by the Sea has opened a new property called Bannisters Pavilion, with 33 guest rooms and two penthouse suites. The hotel sits 100m from Mollymook beach on the New South Wales south coast, and has a design ethos focused on “fresh, earthy and contemporary” interiors. A rooftop pool area has sunbeds, private lounge spaces and a bar and grill. Room rates start at A$255. bannisters.com.au

CHIC IN SAIGON

The Hotel des Arts Saigon has opened in Ho Chi Minh City. The fifth Vietnamese member property of the MGallery Collection, it has combined French and Indochine design elements within its 168 rooms and suites. Facilities include four restaurants and bars, an outdoor lounge, a spa and fitness centre, and infinity pool with views of the city skyline. Rates start from A$188 per night. mgallery.com

LUXE STYLE NEW ZEALAND DESIGN INSPIRATION

Australian designer

We Are Handsome has released a limited-edition scarf in conjunction with Tourism New Zealand as part of its ‘Inspired Journeys’ program. Designers Jeremy and Katinka Somers were inspired by a Marlborough sunset while on a visit to the region. The resulting design is The Beacon, available now. RRP: A$125. wearehandsome.com

DISPATCHES

The Ferrari 488 Spider has officially debuted in Australia as the latest edition to Ferrari's open-top V8 sports car range and the mosthigh performance Spider ever built. The turbocharged V8 coupé goes from 0 to 100 km/h in three seconds and has a throttle response time of 0.8 seconds, which virtually eliminates the turbo lag typical of this kind of engine. Pricing from A$526,888 plus on-road costs. ferrari.com

HEALTH AND WELLNESS NIGHT-TIME WELLNESS TRENDS

At selected luxury hotels around the world, the concept of sleep-time amenities is being revitalised. Contemporary luxury wellness properties are moving beyond pillow menus to offer more interactive activities at turndown time, including candlelit yoga, moonlight floating meditation, herbal elixirs and sleep stretching. At Park Hyatt in Tokyo, for instance, a complimentary 30-minute Good Night Sleep Stretch is offered at the Club on the Park to prepare the body for restful sleep.

At Nayara Springs beneath the Arenal Volcano in Costa Rica, guests staying in their 19 new yoga pavilions (opened in January) are offered evening yoga by candlelight with a soundtrack of the natural surrounds including background frogs and a running stream.

OPEN FOR BOOKINGS

MANDARIN ORIENTAL, MARRAKECH

Set on 20ha of landscaped gardens with views of the Atlas Mountains, the property has 54 private villas and nine suites, a spa and wellness centre. mandarinoriental.com

LUX* TEA HORSE ROAD BENZILAN

The second boutique hotel along the LUX* Tea Horse Road circuit is set on the edge of the Yangtze River in the Benzilan Valley in Yunnan, China. With 30 Tibetaninspired rooms and suites and views of the Baima Snow Mountains. luxresorts.com

THE LASLETT

Opened in September 2015, the Notting Hill hotel has 51 rooms and suites inspired by the area’s rich cultural heritage and British style. slh.com/hotels/the-laslett

FOUR

SEASONS CASABLANCA

A new addition to Morocco’s luxury properties, this 186-room hotel sits oceanfront in the Anfa neighbourhood, just 10 minutes from the city centre. fourseasons.com/casablanca

FOUR SEASONS BOGOTÁ

With 31 guest rooms and 33 suites, accommodations are arranged over three towers. The hotel is situated in the Colombian capital’s Zona T district. fourseasons.com/bogota

FOUR SEASONS SEOUL

The first Four Seasons hotel in Korea has opened in Seoul’s CBD. The 317-room hotel has seven restaurants and bars, a threestorey spa and a fitness complex. fourseasons.com/seoul/

We asked our readers how many holidays they were planning to take during 2016... 75% of our readers said 3 or more trips; and 96% are planning 2 trips.

LUXURY NEW PROPERTY OPENINGS WORLDWIDE

MOTORING GLIDING SPIDER

MANDARIN ORIENTAL, MARRAKECH

RESTORATION HISTORICAL RESTORATION IN COLOMBO

The Galle Face Hotel in Colombo, Sri Lanka, has completed a 30-month restoration of 72 rooms and suites, restaurants and bars in its North Wing. The hotel originally opened in 1864 and has historically hosted royalty and heads of state. The South Wing underwent a refurbishment in 2006 and is currently undergoing a floor-by-floor refurbishment of its 84 rooms and suites. Room rates in the new North Wing start at US$175 (about A$241) per night. gallefacehotel.com

DISPATCHES SURVEY

WHAT YOU SAID

We asked our readers if a new hotel opening from one of their favourite hotel groups inspired them to visit a particular destination they may not have visited before?

78 % 22 %

Fine art photographer, Tony Hewitt, hosts this four day adventure, combining photographic tutelage with rugged luxury.

Fine art photographer, Tony Hewitt, hosts this four day adventure, combining photographic tutelage with rugged luxury.

Your Photographic Retreat includes: Return transfers departing Kununurra and Darwin

Your Photographic Retreat includes: Return transfers departing Kununurra and Darwin

· Accommodation in private luxury villa

· Accommodation in private luxury villa

· Gourmet meals and select beverages

· Gourmet meals and select beverages

Partner rates available. Terms and Conditions apply.

· Sunrise and sunset photography shoots

· Sunrise and sunset photography shoots

Aerial photography in our Bell 407 Helicopter

Aerial photography in our Bell 407 Helicopter

· Activities outside of photography include river cruise, guided hikes, fishing adventures and more!

Activities outside of photography include river cruise, guided hikes, fishing adventures and more!

STEP ONTO THE WHITE SANDS OF SOME OF THE WORLD’S MOST EXOTIC BEACHES WITH OUR GUIDE TO LUXURY PROPERTIES WHERE, AS Katrina Holden WRITES, YOUR DIRECT-ACCESS BEACHFRONT ROOM ENSURES YOUR BED IS LITERALLY A FEW UNOBSTRUCTED FOOTSTEPS FROM THE BEACH.

You’ve seen the brochure – soft sand, pulsing sunshine and crystal aqua waters so clear you can almost visualise your grinning reflection on its surface. But what may not be in the fine print is the reality that your room is six storeys above sand level, in an air-conditioned cocoon that leaves you feeling rather disconnected from the salt spray and frangipani scents below. On your ideal holiday, you didn’t envisage an elevator ride to the beach and footbridges over gardens through a maze of hotel facilities; long, bumpy buggy rides through rainforest; or waters that may not even be suitable for swimming.

The most prized contemporary luxury accommodations are now environmentally sensitive, taking a

wider, but low-rise footprint. These savvy operators recognise the main attraction for their guests – the desire to flop and drop on the beach and in the ocean, where they can be at one with nature and/or each other – with as few obstacles to navigate as possible.

In our summer exotic beach getaway story, we suggest some of the best beach resorts where there’s just perhaps lawn between your bed and a beautiful beach. We explore Fiji, Thailand, Indonesia, Cambodia, Vietnam, French Polynesia, the Philippines, Bali, Hawaii, the Maldives, Seychelles and Mauritius – and tell you exactly which rooms to request. And for those who prefer a getaway closer to home, we rate Australia’s best beachfront destinations.

Australia

LIZARD ISLAND

Great Barrier Reef

QUEENSLAND

With 24 soft white beaches and a lagoon to choose from, or snorkelling on the Great Barrier Reef direct from the resort, the newly reopened Lizard Island offers visitors the chance to experience Australian beachside holidaying at the most northerly resort in tropical Queensland. No black sand or pebbles here –instead, fine-grained, pale sand contrasts with the turquoise waters of the Marine Park, home to green sea turtles and spinner dolphins. The resort can be reached by private transfer from Cairns airport. Many of the 40 villas and suites have private plunge pools and views over Sunset Beach and the Coral Sea. For the bed-tobeach stay, request an Anchor Bay Suite; while the grander The Pavillion and The Villa are more elevated with broader views. When not in your private pool, you can take a guided nature walk, play tennis, take a champagne sunset cruise or a savour a private beach degustation. Rates: from A$1,699 per night; from A$2,399 for the Anchor Bay Suites.

Best time to go: April-November, avoiding peak and wet season. The resort is closed 1-15 February.

HAGGERSTONE ISLAND RESORT

Although the House Mawu is the premium accommodation at the remote, barefoot-luxury, all-inclusive Haggerstone Island Resort on the Great Barrier Reef, the Beach Hut room is the only accommodation right on the beach. Open-plan and driftwooddecorated, with large canvas shutters that open directly over

the sands, tree trunks inside the room and a canopy over the bed, it exudes rustic chic. Set apart from the main resort, its seclusion adds to the appeal. Haggerstone is wellknown for its fishing – and you

feast by night on your own catch of the day. The resort is reached via a private charter from Cairns. Rates: All-inclusive rates for the Beach Hut start from A$800 per person/night twin-share.

AND THERE’S ALSO…

Just a 15-minute helicopter ride from Hamilton Island, One&Only Hayman Island is part of the Great Barrier Reef and brings the cool elegance of the One&Only brand to one of Australia’s most beautiful beaches. The Beach Villas have direct access to the white sands, while the Beach House is a freestanding property on Hayman Beach. Rates: Start from A$1,330 per night; Beach Villas from A$2,500; Beach House from A$3,700.

Orpheus Island on The Great Barrier Reef has newly refurbished rooms, with its North Beachfront Villa on the sheltered western side of the private island overlooking the Coral Sea. The resort accommodates up to 28 guests and can be accessed by a 30-minute helicopter transfer from Townsville. Rates: Start from A$1,200 per night; North Beachfront Villa from A$2,800 per night.

Due to open this February, Elements of Byron sprawls along a 2km stretch of absolute beachfront on Belongil Beach at Byron Bay. Sustainable practices were used in the construction of the 22ha resort and its low-rise villas are designed to integrate the natural environment. Book one of the five Beachside Villas for direct beach access, private bathing decks with freestanding outdoor bathtubs, the quickest pathway to morning beach yoga with the First Light Club, and use of the beach club. Rates: From A$380 per night for Botanica Villas; A$530 for Beachside Villas. Best time to go: Byron Bay is sunny year-round, with its heaviest rainfall from January to March.

LIZARD ISLAND, ANCHOR BAY SUITE

HAGGERSTONE ISLAND RESORT BEACH HUT

EXOTIC BEACH DAZE

EXOTIC BEACH DAZE

Within one long-haul flight

SONEVA KIRI

Koh Kood

THAILAND

Described as Thailand as it once was, luxurious Soneva Kiri resort on Koh Kood Island is 80km off the mainland and 350km south-east of Bangkok. Largely undeveloped, Thailand’s fourthlargest island boasts beautiful beaches with turquoise waters and fishing hotspots. By private seaplane, it’s a one-hour journey from Bangkok airport. Soneva Kiri has 24 large villas and 11 private residences (from one to six bedrooms) fronting either the beach or rainforest, all with private infinity pools and personal butlers. For direct beach access, stay in the Ocean Front Pool Villa Suites or, even closer to the water, the Beach Front Pool Villa Suites. Soneva Kiri champions a “nonews-no-shoes” policy, and guests can choose from swimming, scuba diving, snorkelling with the resort’s on-site marine biologist, star-gazing from the Observatory, an open-air cinema in the jungle or a unique tree-top dining experience in a suspended bamboo pod. Rates: Rooms start

from US$1,570 (about A$2,229) per night; Beach Front Villas start from US$2,755 (about A$3,912). Best time to go: Between November and May, before the wet season and hottest months.

SONG SAA PRIVATE ISLAND

Koh Rong Archipelago

CAMBODIA

While it requires a little bit of navigating to arrive at Cambodia’s first luxury private island resort in the pristine Koh Rong Archipelago, the journey is well worth it. Song

Saa (Khmer for ‘sweethearts’) are two adjacent islands on which 27 over-water, jungle and oceanview villas have been built with sustainable materials and building methods. For direct beach access, stay in the Ocean View Villas where you can step onto your own private white sand beach and snorkel around the island.

The resort’s founders, Australian husband-and-wife team Rory and Melita Hunter, have established the Song Saa foundation and run the resort

under the Buddhist principle of metta bhavana (loving kindness). Barefoot luxury is the order of the day – whether dipping your toes into the infinity pool, snorkelling, browsing Cambodian arts at the boutique or enjoying yoga at sunrise. Rates: Start from US$1,240 (about A$1,737) including breakfast, per night. All-inclusive rates start from US$1,840 (about A$2,577). Best time to go: October until the end of April. May and June can be wet. July-August is wet season and sometimes monsoonal.

SONEVA KIRI THE NAM HAI

SONG SAA PRIVATE ISLAND

THE NAM HAI Ha My Beach, Hoi An VIETNAM

With its tropical gardens and Ha My beachfront, The Nam Hai’s 60 one-bedroom villas and 40 pool villas are a luxury getaway for beach-lovers also keen on exploring the cultural treasures of the nearby UNESCO World Heritage-listed ancient village of Hoi An. A threetiered seaside swimming pool arrangement caters to swimmers of all ages and abilities. Guests can also play tennis at the resort or tee off at nearby golf courses. Villas are designed to replicate traditional Vietnamese garden houses with contemporary touches such as Vietnamese artworks and lacquered eggshell bathtubs. All pool villas come with their own designated butler, private courtyard and temperature controlled swimming pool. For direct beach access, we recommend the one-, three- or five-bedroom beachfront villas. Rates: Start from US$570 (about A$810) per night for the one-bedroom villas; beachfront villas from US$730 (about A$1,037). Best time to go: February to June. September-January is wet season.

THE BRANDO Tetiaroa Private Island FRENCH POLYNESIA

Created by actor Marlon Brando, The Brando is a recent addition to the sustainable luxury accommodation options in this part of the world. Brando fell in love with both his Polynesian leading lady and the local culture while filming Mutiny on the Bounty in 1961. The island, a former go-to destination for Tahitian royalty, has all the cliches – white sands, coconut palms, clear warm waters and tropical birds. The Brando is committed to preserving the island’s beauty, using sustainable infrastructure such as a deep seawater airconditioning system that reduces energy usage. All 35 of the island’s villas are on the beachfront with direct beach and lagoon access.

Rates: All-inclusive and start from €2,400 (about A$3,616) per night for a one-bedroom villa in low season. Best time to go: Tetiaroa is a year-round destination with good weather and medium temperatures.

NIHIWATU Sumba

Surfers and sea-lovers have it all at Nihiwatu on the west coast of Indonesia’s Sumba Island – on “the edge of wilderness”. Southern Ocean storm swells roll into the beach, arriving on the very doorstep of this luxury resort with the famous “God’s Left” break right out front. It’s limited to 10 guests a day, and experienced surfers at the resort must register and pay US$100 to reserve their spot on the break. The resort is also PADI-certified, with underwater rock pinnacles creating the perfect conditions for some of the best diving in Indonesia. As well as surfing, diving, fishing or horse-riding on the beach, there’s also the must-do Nihi Oka wellness experience – a 90-minute trek through lush jungle to a cliff-top lookout where, in your own personal bale, you will be pampered with unlimited treatments for the duration of the day. All the villas at Nihiwatu have direct beach access, by path or stairs. Rates: Start from US$900 (about A$1,275) per night. Best time to go: April to October. Peak period is July-August.

AND THERE’S ALSO….

For a special beachfront, five-star Indonesian experience with a difference, consider Amanwana on Moyo Island. With all the luxury touches of an Aman Resort, the 11 oceanfront tents at Moyo Island, to the east of Bali, offer the best of both worlds – the simplicity of camping on your own private beachfront in luxurious comfort and if privacy is paramount, this is the place. It’s the only resort on the island and has just 20 permanent tents – 11 on the beachfront and nine in the jungle. The tents are permanent structures with air-conditioning, wooden floorboards, pitched canvas ceilings, large ensuite bathrooms, a living area and white mosquito canopies over the king-sized beds. Rates: Ocean tents start from US$900 (about A$1,275) per room, per night, plus taxes.

THE BRANDO NIHIWATU

Within one long-haul flight

FOUR SEASONS RESORT HUALALAI HAWAII

While there are several luxury accommodation options in Hawaii, many can be set back (or upwards over many levels) from the beach. A standout among the luxury options is the low-rise Four Seasons Resort Hualalai property on the Big Island. Guests can swim in the incredible King’s Pond – an aquarium carved out of lava that is home to 4,000 tropical fish. If open ocean swimming is your preference, many villas and suites offer direct beach access: the Kou and Kailani Suites, the Ho’onanea Villa (closest to the shoreline though still central to the resort’s facilities), and the Hawaii Loa Presidential Villa. Guests at the top 10 of the resort’s 51 suites and villas have access to 24-hour suite concierges who can help with everything from packing and unpacking to organising activities such as golf with a pro or even a surprise marriage vow renewal ceremony. Watch the sun set over the Pacific Ocean after a scenic flight over active volcanoes. Rates: Start from US$945 (about A$1,329) per night for an Ocean Golf View Room; US$8,000 (about A$11,250) for Kou or Kailani Suites; through to US$14,995 (about A$21,088) for the Hawaii Loa Presidential Villa. Best time to go: In the Hawaiian summer (May-October) the weather is warmer and drier with average temperatures between 24-31 degrees C. Whale-watching is best between January and early April, while November-March is big-wave surf season on Hawaii’s North Shore.

AMANPULO

Pamalican Private Island PHILIPPINES

The squeaky white sands of 90ha Pamalican Island, part of the Cuyo Archipelego, are home to the 57-room Aman Resort, Amanpulo. The clear waters and unspoiled reef make it an ideal location for water activities including diving, sailing and windsurfing. You’ll spot it all

from the sky first, arriving by private plane to the island’s own landing strip. There are Treetop and Hillside Casitas, and 29 Beachfront Casitas with direct beach access. The spa is perched on the top of the hill with views over the Sula Sea. Rates: Start from US$1,375 (about A$1,948) for Treetop Casitas; US$1,815 (about A$2,571) for Beachfront Casitas. Best time to go: December to May.

TAVANIPUPU PRIVATE ISLAND RESORT SOLOMON ISLANDS

This small island in Marau Sound was a former coconut plantation in the 19th century, owned by Norwegian Traders who purchased it from locals for ammunition. It’s relatively rustic, barefoot South Pacific luxury and can be hard to find – but not too difficult for Prince William and Princess Katherine, who stayed here during their Asia-Pacific tour in 2012. The top room is the Supreme Bungalow. The entire island can be booked for a group of up to 30. When not floating in the sea you can take a fishing tour or cycle through bush tracks on the Guadalcanal mainland. Rates: Start from A$550 for the Supreme Bungalow. Best time to go: From June to September, when rainfall and humidity are at their lowest.

EXOTIC BEACH DAZE

FOUR SEASONS RESORT HUALALAI

AMANPULO

THE ST. REGIS BALI RESORT Nusa Dua

While Bali is extremely popular, it’s not necessarily known for fine, white sandy beaches. Many of the best resorts are located on cliff-tops with ocean panoramas, or in the green and cultural Ubud region in the hills. However, the quiet beach enclave of Nusa Dua is recognised as perhaps one of the best beaches on the island. More than one resort fronts Geger Beach but they are all discretely tucked away from the other and have a real sense of privacy. One of the best on this stretch, boasting the best beach access, is the St. Regis Bali Resort where beachfront villas have private gates onto the sands. The beachfront villas start with the Gardenia Villa; one- or two-bedroom Lagoon Villas; and The Strand Villa, with its own private pool, garden, gazebo, and 24-hour St. Regis butler service. Rates: The Gardenia Villa start

from US$1,020 (about A$1,428) per night. Best time to go: May to October is the dry season with lower humidity.

AND THERE’S ALSO….

The Ayodya Palace is part of the larger Ayodya Resort, also at Nusa Dua. The palace section of the property is like a retreat within a resort where premium guests receive club-style treatment. The

best suites are here, a private pool for Palace guests, a dining terrace overlooking the beach and a gateway onto the sand. Book the Kausalya Suite on the ground floor for beachfront access, a plunge pool and private tropical garden with day beds. Rates: Start from US$191.25 (about A$271) per night; Kausalya Suite from US$1,030 (about A$1,463).

Jimbaran Bay is another quiet

Bali beach that has the added benefit of being a just a 15-minute drive from the international airport. Known for its fish markets and seafood restaurants along the shores, early morning walks along the beach and cocktails as you watch the sun set over the headland at the end of the bay, it is something special. The best luxury options here include the Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay with several Oceanfront Villas. Seek out those closest to Sundara, the beach club and restaurant, as they have direct access to the beach through a garden path and down a short flight of stairs.

Rates: Ocean View villas start at US$649 (about A$905) plus taxes; Oceanfront Villas from US$950 (about A$1,325) plus taxes.

Meanwhile, the InterContinental Bali Resort is just a few metres further along Jimbaran Bay from the Four Seasons, and is a popular choice for families with its wide, silky grass verges leading directly onto the beach. Club InterContinental guests are treated to special privileges including an adult’sonly club pool, complimentary afternoon tea, evening cocktails and 24-hour butler service. For direct beach access, book out either the palatial Imperial Villa or the highest room category at the resort, the Jivana Villa – both villas are two storeys and have a private swimming pool, outdoor spa and large terrace from which you can walk directly onto the grass path down to the sand.

Rates: Start from US$450 (about A$632) per night for a resort classic room; US$2,990 (about A$4,205) for Imperial Villa; US$4,990 (about A$7,018) for Jivana Villa.

THE ST. REGIS BALI RESORT INTERCONTINENTAL BALI RESORT

EXOTIC BEACH DAZE

Within one long-haul flight

LAUCALA PRIVATE ISLAND

On 1,400 hectares, the luxurious, all-inclusive Laucala Island resort has just 25 private villas for guests who expect the ultimate in luxury with classic Fijian hospitality. The Plantation Villas, Seagrass Villas and Peninsula Villa all offer direct access to the beach. The Peninsula Villa has its own private natural pool, concealed beach and a jetty. In addition to the complimentary regular water activities such as fishing, diving or surfing, the resort also has an 18-hole championship golf course. A recent (included) addition is a 60-minute underwater exploration voyage aboard the resort’s new DeepFlight Super Falcon submersible – one of just three in the world. All food, beverages, a chauffeur and a nanny are included. Rates: Start

from US$4,600 (about A$6,455) for one-bedroom Plantation and Seagrass Villas; from US$6,600 (about A$9,247) for Peninsula Villa. Best time to go: Late March through early December.

AND THERE’S ALSO...

After a 10-minute seaplane flight from Nadi airport, couples can seek privacy in the oceanfront bures at the luxury adults-only Likuliku Lagoon Resort. The resort has 45 bures – 10 overwater and 35 along the beachfront with daybeds and private courtyards.

Our tip: go for one of the18 deluxe beachfront bures that feature a private plunge pool. Rates: Start from FJD1,790 (about A$1,162) per night for Garden Beachfront Bures; FJD2,590 (about $1,681) for Deluxe Beachfront Bures.

The Yasawa Island Resort &

Spa is on its own unspoiled island with just 18 bures and 10 private beaches. Beach access is at your door at the Bure Suites and Deluxe Beachfront Bures – but for utter seclusion without compromising your access to the sands, book the Honeymoon Bure, ‘Lomalagi’

(Fijian for ‘heaven’). It’s tucked away from the rest of the resort at the end of a deserted white beach with its own horizon pool. Rates: Start from FJD1,665 (about A$1,081) per night for Bure Suites; FJD3,500 (about A$2,272) for Deluxe Beachfront Bures.

LAUCALA PRIVATE ISLAND

LIKULIKU LAGOON RESORT

FIJI

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*Package price applies to two night lifestyle weekend stay per person twin share. Package includes one luxurious spa treatment, daily fitness programs, great retreat facilities, sensational food and 5 star villa accommodation. See website for all packages and prices. Conditions apply.

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EXOTIC BEACH DAZE

And further afield

The Maldives, Mauritius and Seychelles are idyllic tropical island getaway destinations. Presenting slightly longer flight times for Australians than South-East Asia or the South Pacific, these getaways, with beaches so postcard-perfect they often appear to have been digitally enhanced, offer some of the best bed-to-beach getaways in the world.

The Maldives is an archipelago in the Indian Ocean made up of 26 coral atolls. While the region conjures the classic overwater bungalow images, many savvy luxury travellers prefer to sleep on dry land where it’s a mere step off the deck to the sands – and a shorter stroll to the rest of the resort amenities.

SONEVA FUSHI

This is one of the original resorts in the area. Like its sister property, Soneva Kiri in Thailand, families are well catered for here where they might enjoy a movie screening under the stars at Cinema Paradiso. But the real attraction – aside from 60 flavours of ice-cream and 7,000 bottles in the wine cellar – is the range of one-bedroom villas and suites

through to the nine-bedroom, 5,540sqm Private Reserve with its sunken dining area in the middle of an enormous swimming pool. All villa guests have access to the Mr/Ms Friday butler service.

Rates: Start from US$1,905 (about A$2,605) per night for a one-bedroom Crusoe beachfront villa; through to US$34,035 (about A$47,971) for the Private Reserve.

ONE&ONLY REETHI RAH.

Glamour seekers gravitate towards the One&Only Reethi Rah. Its 12 man-made beaches are home to 85 beachfront villas with direct access to their own stretch of beach and the resort also has a Tweens Club. Book the three-bedroom Grand Sunset Residence with the largest stretch of beach and a private road leading

to the property – plus exclusive use of two four-seater golf carts, pool, Jacuzzi and a private chef. Rates: Start from US$1,850 (about A$2,607) per night; up to US$17,000 (about A$23,960) for the Grand Sunset Residence.

CHEVAL BLANC RANDHELI

For distinct French-flavoured hospitality and ultra-chic design, head to Cheval Blanc Randheli, operated by LVMH Hotel Management. All guests have the services of a majordomo during their stay – to take care of everything from trips to see manta rays or private meditation sessions on the reef, to reservations at the French ninecourse degustation restaurant Le 1947. The ultimate in private luxury is the Owner’s Villa – a

dedicated private island accessed by private berth and jetty – with four bedrooms, its own spa and outdoor pool. Rates: Start from US$3,500 (about A$4,929) per night; Owner’s Villa upon request.

AND THERE’S ALSO...

For large families or private island hire, try the new Coco Privé Kuda Hithi, which sleeps up to 12 guests in six villas (price upon request) or Velaa Private Island, owned by a Czech billionaire Jiri Smejc, which features outdoor bathrooms, a three-storey wine tower, a semisubmersible, a nine-hole golf course and a Clarins spa. The fourbedroom Velaa Private Residences are secluded on a private beach. Rates: Start from US$23,000 or about A$32,380 per night) for the Private Residences.

ONE&ONLY REETHI RAH

CHEVAL BLANC RANDHELI

Photo: Gergoire Le Baconttzt

And further afield

ST. REGIS MAURITIUS RESORT

On Le Morne Beach, one of the best beaches in Mauritius, lies St. Regis Mauritius Resort, on the south-western side of the island. Fronting the lagoon, the resort features 172 guest rooms overlooking the Indian Ocean. The Beachfront St. Regis Suites and Grand Suites have separate indoor living room and outdoor balconies from which you step straight onto the beach’s grass verge in front of the sparkling blue waters. The best rooms in the house are the two St. Regis Mauritius Villas –both with ocean views, a private deck, direct access to the beach and a team at your call including a butler, villa manager, chef and security guards. Rates: Start from €1,170 (about A$1,755) per night for the Beachfront Suites; €2,400 (about A$3,600) for the St. Regis Mauritius Villas.

FOUR SEASONS RESORT MAURITIUS

Beach-loving golfers might wish to head to Four Seasons Resort Mauritius at Anahita – and complimentary golf on its Ernie Els-designed course.

When not cycling, snorkelling or centring yourself during yoga, relax in a contemporarystyled room with direct beach access. Rates: Options include the Sanctuary Beach Pool Villa from €1,327 (about A$1,992 per night); Sanctuary Ocean Pool Villas from €1,736 (about A$2,696); or Beach Pool Villas (€1,560 (about A$2342). Best time to go: From May until December when the weather is more cool, dry and sunny.

NORTH ISLAND & VILLA NORTH ISLAND SEYCHELLES

The Seychelles Archipelago, 115 islands off the coast of East Africa, is renowned for its natural beauty, bluest of blue waters and nature reserves with abundant wildlife such as giant tortoises. The conservationfocused, earthy-style North Island has 10 Presidential Villas, all with direct beach access to East Beach, where

See more on this story at luxurytravelmag.com.au/65

children are welcome. However, Villa North Island is a multitiered villa with private direct beach access that is is reserved for couples. Rates: Start from €3,050 (about A$4,580) per night for Presidential Villas; €4,800 (about A$7,211) for Villa North Island. The entire island can also be hired. Best time to go: Temperatures are fairly constant year-round (from 27-32 degrees C). There tends to be more rainfall late November to mid-February. There is higher humidity JanuaryJune, breezier winds JulyDecember.

EXOTIC BEACH DAZE

ST. REGIS MAURITIUS RESORT FOUR SEASONS RESORT MAURITIUS

NORTH ISLAND

OUR WRITERS TAKE IN / THE OFF-THE-TRACK PATHS OF NORTHERN THAILAND / THE COLOURS OF RAJASTHAN, INDIA / THE LITERARY TRAILS OF LAKE GENEVA / THE CULTURE OF ECUADOR / THE TEA TRAILS OF SRI LANKA AND OUR LUXURY CITY GUIDE TO HONG KONG.

CHIANG MAI IS THE HEART OF NORTHERN THAILAND – AND A GATEWAY TO HIDDEN TREASURES OF THE LANNA KINGDOM. STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY Ewen Bell

Chiang dao market is a small roadside stop along the old route between Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai. It operates every Tuesday morning, when villagers come from the nearby mountains to sell homegrown herbs, rice, corn and a wide array of treats foraged from the forests. I find I’m more partial to slabs of wild honey than I am to wafers of wasp eggs.

Ethnic minorities are the majority here, the Lisu, Akha, Hmong and Karen being the most accessible to visit. You can head into the jungles on a week-long hiking trek, stay at the relative comfort of Lisu Lodge,

or seek out the morning markets when the tribespeople come down from the hills to trade wild treasures for baht.

Elephants and rice dominate the landscape between Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai. Just a short drive from the morning market is Chiang Dao Elephant Camp where 12 of these animals have retired from the logging industry to find a new life in entertainment. A bamboo bridge leads visitors across the river where elephants take playful baths and practise their painting skills. Elephants love being busy and will tolerate a certain amount of showmanship for the sake of good grub.

Opposite page (from top): Anantara Golden Triangle Resort; rescued elephants take a bath at Chiang Dao Elephant Camp.

This page: Fresh produce and wild mountain bounty at the regular Tuesday morning market at Chiang Dao.

“At Anantara, not only are the unemployed elephants taken off the streets, but their mahouts and families are given good jobs and benefits.”

The road past Chiang Dao continues north towards the Golden Triangle, where the borders of Myanmar and Laos converge. Guests venturing this far are rewarded at the Anantara Golden Triangle Elephant Camp and Resort with special access to the elephant camp. At Anantara, not only are the unemployed elephants taken off the streets, but their mahouts and families are given good jobs and benefits. This groundbreaking program gives resort guests the experience of training as a mahout over several days.

If you can’t get as far as Chiang Dao or Chiang Rai, there are still plenty of serene moments to be enjoyed in and around Chiang Mai. Some parts of town are full of backpackers and cheap eats such as khao soi (yellow curry soup with noodles),

but there are about 100 temples to visit and very few travellers venture far from the big ones. Doi Suthep is perhaps the most elegant temple in all of Thailand. Perched in the cool mountain air away from the city, it becomes serene at dusk when most visitors leave and the golden statues shimmer beneath the dark blue sky. This is when the monks appear to begin their chanting. Only a handful of visitors remain to enjoy their peaceful offerings.

l STAY HERE

Rates at Anantara Golden Triangle Elephant Camp and Resort start from A$1,238.

See more on this story at luxurytravelmag.com.au/65 as well as a separate article by Ewen on

This page (clockwise from top left): Anantara Golden Triangle Resort (two images); monks worship at Doi Suthep temple; Doi Suthep.

the treatment of elephants in Thailand.

PASSAGE TOINDIA

ON A VISIT TO RAJASTHAN, Katrina Holden GETS UP CLOSE WITH THE COLOURFUL LOCALS BY DAY AND RESTS IN FORMER PALACES BY NIGHT.

Photography Katrina Holden

This page: Guard at the City Palace in Jaipur. Opposite page: Tea on the lawn at the Rajmahal Palace Hotel, Jaipur.

I’m in a village called rohet, 40km south of Jodphur in Rajasthan, India, and the gentleman of the house is wearing a white turban and clothing to signify peace. This 82-year-old member of the Bishnoi tribe, father of four sons, sits serenely in the shade of a khejri tree. With his circular-framed spectacles, he bears a distinct resemblance to Mahatma Gandhi. His wife and granddaughter lean against the walls of their dhani, a circular house constructed of mudbrick and cow dung, while his daughter-inlaw prepares food. His sons are out working the land.

“The Bishnoi people were the first ecologists or ecowarriors,” explains our guide. True “greenies”, the all-vegetarian tribe live a simple and sustainable life. Bishnoi pray to the trees and won’t even kill an insect. Lentils bubble in a pot on an open fire, as we examine a sesame plant from which the seeds are extracted. On a single-string clothesline, women’s traditional red dotted skirts are curling dry in the heat.

We are invited by a tribal elder to observe the tradition of an opium ceremony where the opium seeds are ground and brewed into tea, imparting a medicinal effect. We sip the drink, which tastes like aniseed, from our cupped palms.

Children wave and shout as we pass by in our jeep. Later, we see shepherds in colourful clothing. We encounter leaping blackbuck antelope, camels drinking from waterholes and a baby goat just a few hours old.

Lunch is served at a luxurious desert oasis. Secure within

This page: Mihir Garh is a luxurious nine-suite oasis in the desert.

Opposite page (clockwise from top left): Interior at Mihir Garh; Mehrangarh Fort in Jodhpur; the fort overlooks the Raas Hotel in the old town; entrance to the fort.

its fort-like walls and towers, Mihir Garh is a nine-suite Relais & Chateaux property with complete privacy. It has plunge pools, relaxing lounge areas, quality dining and one of the finest equestrian programs in the country.

It's this mixture of experiences that captivate me during my eight-day visit to the north-western state of Rajasthan on India’s border with Pakistan. I am a guest of Pure India Collection, a Sydney-based luxury travel specialist agent, which is challenging the perceptions many travellers have about India. My own prone-to-worry mother even asks if I have an updated will before departure! What I do have is a conveniently obtained evisa, applied for online just days before leaving.

A visit to Rajasthan is packed with colour, character and contradictions – a mix of maharajahs and meditation; humble homes and princely palaces; manicured gardens and manic market places; bright-purple, sequinned saris and the lavender hues of a rugged landscape at sunset; marigold flowers and martinis; and the aromas of curry and jasmine.

The beautifully preserved Mehrangarh Fort in Jodhpur, built in 1459, is perched on a hill overlooking the old town. Our guide leads us past indigo-washed houses, the homes of priests distinguished by colourful flags. Auto-rickshaws squeeze through the narrow streets they share with freely roaming cows.

That evening, we are treated to a private performance of a 14th-century dance ceremony before dining at the 18th-century Pal Haveli – gazing at the illuminated fort while we eat. On our

IMAGE COURTESY MIHIR GARH

way back to our designer digs – the Raas Hotel in the heart of the old town, which also has views of the fort (you can see it while soaking in your bathtub) – our guide shows us the base of a tree where hundreds of delicate swallows sleep blissfully on soft pillows of leaves.

The capital of Rajasthan, Jaipur, is often called the Pink City because of the pink-walls of its buildings. We ride on the back of an elephant to Amber Fort, built in the 16th century, to see how the maharajahs once lived. We watch a snake charmer entice a cobra from its rattan basket. Monkeys scale the terracotta-pink walls of the City Palace in the old town. Our guide, Ummed Singh, had been on the personal staff of the Maharaja of Jaipur, Bhawani “Bubbles” Singh (1970-2011) for 33 years. Ummed had escorted state guests including Prince Charles and Princess Diana, and Bill Clinton through these same quarters.

That afternoon, Ummed becomes my personal market shopper, to help me bargain my way through the old town markets. I finally leave, satisfied with camel leather sandals, hand-stitched throws and wall hangings, embroidered bags, cotton kaftans, glass bangles and peacock-feathered fans.

I feel like a 1950s maharani during my stay at the refurbished but still decadent and flamboyant Rajmahal Palace Hotel. The former palace, part of the Sujan Collection, has been restored with the help of renowned Delhi-based designer, Adil Ahmad. It’s a flirtatious but tasteful fusion of Palm Springs and Jaipur. Suites include the Queen Elizabeth II Suite, built for

This page: Snake charmer serenades a cobra from its basket; the old town area of Jaipur.

Opposite page (clockwise from top): 51 Shades of Pink dining room at the Rajmahal Palace Hotel; Polo Bar at the Rambagh Palace; The Colonnade at Rajmahal Palace Hotel.

Her Highness and the Duke of Edinburgh for their state visit in 1961; and the Jackie Kennedy Suite where the First Lady stayed for almost three months in 1962. I would recommend: tea on the lawn – sitting on fuschia cushions while a gentleman in a pink turban pours from fine bone china; martinis in the Polo Bar; afternoon tea in The Colonnade; dinner in the vibrant 51 Shades of Pink dining room, designed as an homage to a famous 1952 Vogue magazine cover photographed by Norman Parkinson; or a simple wander through the palace to try to spot the 37 different styles of wallpaper used throughout the hotel.

A more traditional place to stay is the Rambagh Palace, former home of “Bubbles”. Now run by the Taj Hotels group, the romantic palace has flawless grounds and gardens, grand dining rooms, and an internal pool once famously filled with champagne by Bhawani Singh’s father when “Bubbles” was born (hence the nickname). Don’t leave without trying a signature Jaipore Martini in the art deco Polo Bar – the former palace

“I feel like a 1950s maharani during my stay at the refurbished but still decadent and flamboyant Rajmahal Palace Hotel.”

nursery now arguably the most well-known bar in Jaipur.

Leaving the Pink City behind, I am soon mingling with monkeys at lush Amanbagh (“peaceful garden”), an Aman resort in the Aravalli Hills. We travel by car, but it’s only a 15-minute helicopter ride from Jaipur. Greeted with a song, cool towel and welcome drinks, I am escorted to my pool pavilion room. It has a statuesque, Moghul-themed marble bedhead, and an enormous green bath made from a single piece of Udaipur marble. I have my own outdoor pool and garden –and a monkey stick in case I need to chase them from my path. They clamber up trees outside my room, but I have no need for the stick. As dusk approaches, we take the Cow Dust tour, an open-top jeep ride through nearby villages.

The sun is setting behind the mountains and a mist is rolling in low between the hills. Before a roadside stop with villagers for masala tea, we pause, taking in the tranquillity and setting sun. As the sun fades for the day, I savour the realisation that I’m in rural Rajasthan, with trusted local guides in peachcoloured turbans who know this land intimately and are loving the opportunity to show it off at its dusky, quiet best. Before long, I will be back floating in my plunge pool beneath the moonlight, with only the monkeys as my witness. Now that’s the luxury of travel in India.

l RECOMMENDED READING

Set in exotic Rajasthan, India, bookish Elena seeks the romance and transcendence that has been missing from her life in San Francisco. Her quest leads her through the maze of another culture, populated by beckoning goddesses, the outrageous and sometimes tragic people she meets along the way, and a daring lover. It’s a captivating addition to the growing genre of books such as Eat, Pray, Love that explore midlife travel, romance, and transformation. tripfiction.com/books/overnight-palace

The writer travelled courtesy of Pure India Collection and Air India (see our Air India flight review this issue).

Pure India Collection has small-group itineraries departing March and September 2016 along a similar journey. Prices start from A$6,760 for a 13-day/12-night journey with optional luxury extras available. A customised itinerary, similar to the one experienced by the journalist, can be tailored for private travel.

For more information or to book your luxury India holiday or tour, call Pure India Collection on 1300 365 060 or pureindiacollection.com.au

THE OVERNIGHT PALACE by Janet Marie Sola

Amanbagh resort in the Aravalli Hills.

IMAGE COURTESY AMANBAGH

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IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF GIANTS

LAKE GENEVA AND ITS SPECTACULAR SURROUNDS HAVE LONG BEEN A SOURCE OF INSPIRATION FOR GREAT WRITERS. Roslyn Jolly RETRACES THE FOOTSTEPS OF SUCH LITERARY GREATS AS LORD BYRON, MARY SHELLEY AND HENRY JAMES.

We call it lake geneva, but to the German-speaking Swiss it is Genfersee, while the French know it as Lac Léman. This brilliant blue, crescent-shaped lake has a 167km shoreline packed with literary associations. From the Romantic French idealist Jean-Jacques Rousseau to latter-day poets David Bowie and Freddie Mercury, writers have visited, stayed and been inspired by the picturesque combinations of water, mountains, vineyards and castles.

Lake Geneva was the setting for one of the most famous events in literary history. On a dark and stormy night – yes, really – five English travellers gathered in a lakeside villa. The group included the poets Byron and Shelley, and a

teenage girl who would become Shelley’s second wife. Someone suggested a competition to write the most frightening supernatural tale. From this now legendary evening in 1816 was born Mary Shelley’s Gothic masterpiece, Frankenstein

The Villa Diodati still stands in the exclusive residential suburb of Cologny, a short bus ride from Geneva’s city centre, and here the modern visitor can pay respects to literary legend. A necessary place of pilgrimage for any Frankenstein enthusiast, the villa is just one of the sights to draw readers and romantics to this part of the world. Another is the more than 900-year-old Château de Chillon, one of the most spectacular landmarks of the Lake Geneva shoreline. This castle inspired Byron’s haunting poem The

Above: Hôtel des Tros Couronnes, Vevey. Previous page: Château de Chillon on Lake Geneva.

“The perfect end to the day was then ready to hand – tea or drinks on the terrace of the Hôtel des Trois Couronnes, watching dusk descend over the lake from the very spot where Daisy Miller begins.”

MARY SHELLEY

HENRY JAMES

HÔTEL DES TROIS COURONNES

HÔTEL DES TROIS COURONNES

HÔTEL DES TROIS COURONNES VILLA DIODATI

Prisoner of Chillon and, some 60 years later, provided a pivotal episode in Henry James’s bestselling novel, Daisy Miller.

Thanks to the continued operation of historic paddleboats by the Compagnie Générale de Navigation (CGN), you can travel to Chillon exactly as James and his characters did, a pleasant 50 minute cruise from Vevey. On our visit, the scenery was spectacular, but never better than as we approached the château, sitting on its island like a fairytale castle. The reflection of its turrets, swans, clouds and mountains in the blue lake lent an ideal beauty to the scene.

Following our tour of the castle, we walked the lakeshore the few kilometres to Montreux and took the steamer to Vevey. The perfect end to the

day was then ready to hand – tea or drinks on the terrace of the Hôtel des Trois Couronnes, watching dusk descend over the lake from the very spot where Daisy Miller begins.

After elegant Geneva, romantic Chillon and picturesque Vevey, there remains one more stop on your literary tour. To the south-east of the lake lies Chamonix, with its awe-inspiring environment of mountain and glacier the backdrop to some of the most dramatic episodes in Frankenstein. This is the sublime aspect of the Lake Geneva experience, another ingredient in the extraordinary mix of landscapes that makes this region so inspiring.

LAKE GENEVA l STAY HERE

The Lord Byron option (Geneva)

The original Hôtel d’Angleterre, where Byron first stayed in 1816, no longer exists, but a newer incarnation, built in 1872, continues to offer the kind of luxury accommodation and personalised service His Lordship demanded. A keen sailor, Byron would also have appreciated the complimentary boat service that ferries hotel guests to points of interest around the lakefront. Lakeview suites face Mont Blanc and Geneva’s Jet d’Eau. Rooms from CHF440 (about A$625) per night. dangleterrehotel.com

The Henry James option (Vevey)

Travellers can exactly replicate James’s (and Daisy Miller’s) experience by staying at the Hôtel des Trois Couronnes. Established in 1842, the hotel has a long history of connection with artists and aristocrats. The famous lakeside terrace offers commanding Alpine views. Rooms from CHF460 (about A$653) per night, including access to Puressens Spa. hoteltroiscouronnes.ch

The Mary Shelley option (around Lake Geneva)

Travelling en famille, the Shelleys rented family homes and apartments during their stay in Switzerland. For equivalent accommodation options today, see homeaway.com.au/holidayrentals/switzerland/lake-geneva/r11803

l GETTING AROUND

Sadly, horse-and-carriage travel is not a contemporary option, but the other modes of transport our authors used to traverse the Lake Geneva region still operate today with style and efficiency. A Railbookers Swiss Pass covers all rail, boat and bus transport as well as entry to museums and monuments, and can be combined with accommodation in a Railbookers customised itinerary. For inspiration, see their Essential Switzerland: Lakes and Mountains Luxury Holiday, six nights from A$4,050 per person. railbookers.com

l WHEN TO GO

Geneva’s lake and mountains provide the setting for a life-or-death contest between scientist Victor Frankenstein and the monster he regrets creating.

Luxury tourism on the Montreux Riviera brings an American girl face to face with the destructive power of “Europe”.

While the lake and surroundings are beautiful all year round, boating and hiking activities are at their best from April to October. Special events in the region in 2016 include the spring opening of the new Charlie Chaplin museum at Vevey, and the 50-year celebration of the Montreux Jazz Festival (1-16 July). montreuxriviera.com

FRANKENSTEIN by Mary Shelley DAISY MILLER by Henry James

See more on this story at luxurytravelmag.com.au/65

Frankenstein country: the majestic mountains and glacier of Chamonix.

A DOOR TO ECUADOR

FROM THE CLOUD-PIERCING ANDES TO THE JUNGLES OF THE AMAZON TO THE UNIQUE DARWINIAN EXPERIMENT THAT IS THE GALAPAGOS ISLANDS, Matt Shea DISCOVERS THAT ECUADOR IS A TREASURE TROVE OF NATURAL WONDER.

Photography Matt Shea

Vamos, amigos, vamos!” come, our guide, diego jaramillo, is saying. it’s time to go. But we don’t want to. We are transfixed by a wisp of cloud draped over Mount Chimborazo, all pure white on crystalline blue skies, its flanks descending into rich green farmland. We’ve been in Ecuador just three days and already this dance has played out numerous times. Not that Diego is hurrying us. Just as often he stares at the view as well, smiling, hands on head. Diego is as frequently overcome by his country’s beauty as we are.

Right now, though, there’s an extra incentive to leave. For half an hour we’ve been transfixed by Baltazar Ushca – better known as the Last Ice Merchant – who, for half a century, has harvested the glacial ice of Chimborazo. Ushca’s lined face speaks of a different time when a small army would ascend the mountain and collect ice for sale at the bustling city markets. But now the 70-year-old is the last of his kind. His stories are fascinating, but behind us a waiting train blows its whistle. Vamos, amigos! It really is time to go.

This page (clockwise from top left): Guards outside Carondelet Palace; horses graze beneath Mount Chimborazo; street vendor in Otavalo; Galapagos Islands.

Opposite page: Virgen de Quito, the winged Madonna statue on El Panecillo Hill, Quito.

Throughout the morning we’ve been heading deep into Chimborazo province, intimidating altitudes tamed by the diesel power of Tren Crucero (the Cruise Train) a flatfaced locomotive hauling us in easy luxury from the provincial capital Rio Bamba to Ushca’s hometown of Urbina, 3,600m above sea level.

It’s understandable that this last remaining ice merchant is found in Ecuador. The country’s geographical diversity is astounding, vertiginous mountains butting up against farmland and alpine cities. The capital, Quito, is the second-highest in the world after Bolivia’s La Paz.

Diego Jaramillo is a microcosm of modern Ecuador. He’s fiercely proud of his heritage, but welcomes foreigners and displays an expert’s understanding of the West. Over a typically generous lunch of fried empanadas and whole trout, he’ll talk about Ecuadorian history in one

breath, and the Kinks’ Village Green Preservation Society album the next. He represents both the past and the future – and why Ecuador is such an easy place to visit.

Ecuador’s Andean mountain spine, cutting across the equator, is blistered with volcanoes, many of which are still active. Cotopaxi, the highest at almost 6,000m, is considered one of the most dangerous in the world. As a reminder, it churns out clouds of ash for the duration of our visit. It’s easy to imagine God’s hands shaping this terrain even as you walk upon it.

Quito itself is like an ant farm with the top sliced off, a modern city of some 2.6 million people going about their daily lives among towering peaks and gaping ravines. As we flew in, a gap in the mountains revealed the lights of a spectacular city that runs long and narrow, north to south. The north

is primarily office buildings, but travel south and the architecture winds back to colonial times, paved streets turning to cobblestones. Old Quito, like so many South American cities, is defined by its centuries-old churches, including the 400-yearold (construction began in 1605, but wasn’t completed until 1765) Church of the Society of Jesus

l RECOMMENDED READING CITY ON THE LEDGE by Philip Kraske

This page (clockwise from left): Monument at the Middle of the World Ethnographic Museum, Quito; aboard the Tren Crucero; Baltazar Ushca, the 'Last Ice Merchant' of Urbina, harvests the glacial ice of Chimborazo.

Opposite page (clockwise from top): The Basilica del Voto Nacional dominates the northern side of Quito; roof of the Quito Cathedral; courtyard gardens of San Francisco Monastery, Quito.

with its gold-leaf interior – but is dominated by the monumental neoGothic Basilica del Voto Nacional on its northern side, and El Panecillo hill with its giant monument of a winged Madonna to the south. The two local icons face each other across the old city, keeping watch over Plaza Grande and its surrounding religious and civic buildings – including the presidential Carondelet Palace – the epicentre of Ecuadorian power.

Diego shows us the history right in front of our eyes: ancient Incan foundations repurposed for Spanish churches and storehouses. By day, Old Quito bustles with locals and tourists, but by night it is overcome with the gentle romance of the lights laid upon its flanks. We imbibe the romance from Vista Hermosa, a popular restaurant on the city’s eastern hills, and later via the sumptuous grandeur of Hotel Plaza Grande, right next door to Carondelet Palace.

Quito, Ecuador. In this obscure Andean capital, ladled along the ledge of a volcano, an eruption is taking place. After centuries of oppression, the workers are on strike against their banana plantation masters.

If Ecuador, the largest banana exporter in the world and the bargain basement of the industry, raises its prices, so will the others. Jay Streets, an unusual arbitrator, has to navigate the machinations of politics and government wishes.

tripfiction.com/books/city-ledge

“Quito itself is like an ant farm with the top sliced off, a modern city of some 2.6 million people going about their daily lives among towering peaks and gaping ravines.”

FOTO3593 / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

This page (clockwise from top left): Galapagos Island wildlife includes the pink flamingo; red-footed booby; iguana; and giant tortoise.

Opposite page (clockwise from top left): Market in town of Otavalo; hummingbird in the cloud forest; local woman prepares food in Ahuano village; luxury plus at Casa Gangotena boutique hotel in Quito (and next image); exploring the Amazon jungle near Ahuano.

It is an easy four-hour journey from Quito to the village of Ahuano in the Amazon basin. The views change completely – from desolate 4,000m mountain passes to precipitous cloud forests with crowds of hummingbirds, and then to the Amazon Basin with its lush vegetation along the Napo River, a major tributary of one of the world’s longest waterways.

We spend the next three days zooming along the Napo in longboats, exploring the jungle on foot and getting an idea of village life with the indigenous Quechua people. We relax at night over guanabana (soursop) juice and margaritas. After dark, the river is not seen but heard, its almighty torrent sounding like the meditative drum of rain on an open field. It’s a unique bliss.

Of course, Ecuador doesn’t end there. Back over the Andes to the west, more than 900km beyond the coast, sit the inimitable Galapagos Islands, the ultimate destination on our itinerary.

This volcanic archipelago is a place that resets the relationship between man and nature. Lola, our guide on the islands, instructs us to maintain a two-metre distance between ourselves and the unique fauna we’re about to encounter. At first, this might feel like it’s for the benefit of a snap-happy Australian tourist, but we soon realise it’s the animals who want to get close.

Lola explains that the many

species endemic to the islands are ecologically naive, having lost the defensive instincts they need when encountering new predators. It’s a paradigm-shifting moment when a Nazca booby or an iguana or a sea lion approaches, looking you up and down. They display no fear, simply curiosity, and it drives

home the profound impact that humankind has had on the world. The windswept geography does the rest. Cloud formations blow in off the ocean, gathering on the silent volcanoes that over millions of years have pushed up from the ocean floor. From our ship moored in Sullivan Bay we look at

l

STAY HERE

The lavish Hotel Plaza Grande and bold, ritzy Casa Gangotena are the best hotels in Quito, situated right in the middle of the old city. Rates begin at US$600 per night (about A$840) for the Plaza Grande and US$450 (about A$630) for Casa Gangotena. Prices do not include a 12% VAT and 10% service charge.

l TREN CRUCERO

Ecuador’s Cruise Train runs a three-night journey from Guayaquil to Quito every second Sunday, and Quito to Guayaquil every second Tuesday. Prices begin at US$1,393 (about A$1,955) not including taxes. Prices include fourstar accommodation in haciendas along the route

Isla Santiago, in the middle of the archipelago. Under the moonlight it’s little more than a giant void on the near horizon. No lights, no noise, just darkness. That’s how alone you are in the Galapagos.

We fly back to Quito the following day, to be met by a grinning Diego at the gate. “How was it, my friends?” he asks. It was magic, Diego.

We wander out onto the verge of Quito’s ultra-modern international airport and breathe in the crisp smell of the city at dusk. Lights flicker in the apartment buildings across the valley. It’s a startling final reminder of Ecuador’s breadth of beauty – from the stark isolation of the Galapagos Islands in the South Pacific Ocean, to the meditative bliss of the Amazon, to the bustle of cities perched high in the Andes.

Vamos, amigos! Come, it’s time to go to Ecuador!

The writer was a guest of Ecuador Tourism and flew with Delta Air Lines. Delta Air Lines flies to Quito daily from Sydney, with stops in Los Angeles and Atlanta.

“... the many species endemic to the islands are ecologically naive, having lost the defensive instincts they need when encountering new predators.”

SOUTH AMERICA HAS NEVER BEEN CLOSER

DISCOVER THE MAGIC OF ECUADOR

GALAPAGOS TORTOISE, ECUADOR

SANTA CRUZ ISLAND, GALAPAGOS, ECUADOR

LAN Airlines and TAM Airlines form LATAM Airlines Group which serves over 130 destinations in 22 countries.

LAN Airlines offers seven ights per week from Sydney to Santiago, Chile via Auckland and four direct codeshare ights operated by oneworld partner. From Santiago, LAN offers connections to the most wonderful destinations in Ecuador.

CORPUS CHRISTI FESTIVAL, ECUADOR

TIME FOR TEA

Susan Borham TICKS ONE OFF THE BUCKET LIST ON A JOURNEY ALONG THE TEA TRAILS OF SRI LANKA.

Sri lanka has occupied a place in my mind for many years, principally because I admired the fact that science fiction writer Arthur C Clarke had maintained a global profile while leading a life there, I imagined, of exotic serenity. It became less ephemeral in 2008, when I met an expatriate executive of Air Lanka (SriLankan Airlines) in Sydney over lunch, who regaled his fellow diners with stories of the island’s potential, albeit then still troubled by civil war.

And so, when last September our family had the opportunity to visit, I was full of anticipation.

We took an unusual first tour, not doing the Colombo-Kandy loop, but instead heading

straight to the cool High Country, home to the nation’s tea plantations. The Dilmah tea family has diversified, turning the former colonial homes of tea plantation managers into luxury villas for well-heeled adventures, creating the Ceylon Tea Trails.

We arrived at Summerville Bungalow at 3am after a six-hour drive from Colombo to be greeted by staff offering cold beers, cups of tea or any other refreshment we desired. The drive was, as promised by our welcome letter from tour operator Go Travel, “full of activity with never a dull moment”. Six hours of narrow, wet, winding roads with a perpetual stream of oncoming headlights ensured there was, literally, never a dull moment.

Because we arrived at night and transferred immediately by minibus, we missed the startling mountain vistas and only glimpsed the busy towns and villages. Less hardy travellers should stop a night in Colombo and/or explore the helicopter or rail transfer option.

That said, we were driven and guided by an extraordinary man, Charles Ferdinand, who had made his living in hotels, including in the Gulf States and, in semi-retirement continued to work to set his children up in their own homes. Charles provided important contemporary context that helped us understand the opportunities and challenges facing Sri Lanka as it emerges from the ravages of decades of civil war, mostly in the north, and the devasta-

MIST OVER CASTLEREAGH LAKE

MORNING TEA AT SUMMERVILLE BUNGALOW

SUMMERVILLE BUNGALOW THE MORNING SHIFT IN THE TEA PLANTATIONS

JOHN O'NEILL

QUEENSTOWN IS SPECTACULAR

AZUR ENABLES YOU TO BE PART OF THE SCENERY

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tion wrought by the 2004 Boxing Day Tsunami along its southern coast.

Summerville is one of four luxury bungalows within a few hours’ drive of each other. It overlooks a serene, lake-like reservoir. On the other side you can see one of many tea factories dotted around the Tea Trails landscape. The tea plantations run much as they did a century ago, with mainly women working the fields, plucking kilograms of leaves by hand each day.

The tea is then sorted and processed in the tea factories. The factory we visited emphasised its ethical working conditions, but this is, of course, relative. There is no doubt this is an extremely demanding and laborious way of life, which underscores for me the comparative privilege and comfort we enjoy in the developed world – and the work of others that goes into what we think of as a simple pleasure, such as a cup of tea.

At altitude, the weather is temperate and the vegetation lush. We snapped away taking pictures as our son kicked a soccer ball on the lawns of the sister Norwood Bungalow against a backdrop of massive palms and a curtain of giant bamboo in one direction and slopes of terraced tea plants in the other.

When travelling, I opt as often as possible for local cuisine, so I was pleased to find it on offer alongside Western and children’s fare at every meal. As in many countries, there are two versions of local fare – both spring from the same base, but the nouvelle version usually has more to offer as it has outside influences. Fortunately, I love spices and curry, as it is an ingredient of most dishes. For example, the spicy

There is no doubt this is an extremely demanding and laborious way of life, which underscores for me the work of others that goes into what we think of as a simple pleasure, such as a cup of tea.

SUMMERVILLE BUNGALOW LIVING ROOM

SUMMERVILLE BUNGALOW POOL GIANT BAMBOO AT THE NORWOOD BUNGALOW

Sri Lankan breakfast omelette comes with lentil (daal) curry and coconut salsa plus rice.

‘Hoppers’ are a range of dishes based on a fermented batter, usually made of rice flour and coconut milk, that is pan-fried and served with poached eggs inside them for breakfast interesting, but not my favourite. Other local meals at lunch or dinner are invariably anchored by fish, chicken, beef or mutton curries.

We also took a day trip into the local town of Hatton. It was bustling, muddy, but full of friendly faces, bright and colourful fruit stalls, cake shops, local furniture outlets and Sri Lankan versions of convenience stores, with toys for the kids. The railway station was a glimpse into the country’s British colonial legacy – and

the local transport option. Western backpackers happily swung out of carriages as a train pulled in, but it was a humid and smelly experience, all told.

After a couple of days in Tea Country, we departed for the southern coast. Charles took the ‘short-cut’, but it was still another six-hour drive down extremely narrow, often gravel roads. The journey was breathtaking, in more ways than one. At one point, our road was blocked by a local festival parade, kids and adults in their colourful Sunday best, dancing with abandon to the beat of a walking band. We were lucky to chance upon this brief window into traditional Sri Lankan life in all its vibrant cultural glory.

l STAY HERE

The Ceylon Tea Trails is Sri Lanka’s first Relais & Châteaux resort, with four luxurious tea planter’s bungalows located in the Ceylon tea gardens, connected by scenic walking trails. Accommodation includes breakfast, a three-course lunch, four-course dinner, drinks, traditional afternoon tea and a Tea Experience in the tea fields and a factory tour. Double occupancy rates start from US$648 (about A$891) per room, per night.

l GETTING AROUND

The ground operator for Luxury Travel magazine’s Sri Lanka journey was Getaway Sri Lanka (getawaysrilanka.com.au). For details on a nine-day, A$5,564 luxury Sri Lanka itinerary by Getaway Sri Lanka, visit luxurytravelmag.com.au/itineraries

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LOCALS ARRIVE AT HATTON RAILWAY STATION

AMONGST THE LOCALS AT HATTON

SUSAN BORHAM

SUSAN BORHAM

For the of your life...

YOUR LUXURY GUIDE TO

l BEST FOR DRINKS CAFÉ GRAY DELUXE

Level 49, The Upper House, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty

Sitting in the clouds on the top of Hong Kong’s most salubrious boutique hotel, the Upper House, Café Gray has movie-set style. It’s somewhere George Clooney would sit sipping a cocktail with the city lights twinkling in the background. With a European menu, wines from little-known vineyards and impeccable staff, and views of Hong Kong Park, Victoria Harbour and the hilly peaks beyond Tsim Sha Tsui, it remains popular. Catch sunset in the bar with a Hong Kong Highball in hand.

l BEST FOR ASIAN CUISINE FOOK LAM MOON

43-45 Johnston Rd, Wanchai

HONG KONG RESIDENT AND AUTHOR OF THE HONG KONG

Penny Watson SHARES HER LUXURY INSIDER TIPS TO THE BEST SHOPPING, EATING, DRINKING AND DESIGN EXPERIENCES IN HONG KONG. HERE WE PUBLISH SELECTED EXCERPTS FROM THE BOOK AS WELL AS ADDITIONAL EXPERIENCES SHE HAS FOUND EXCLUSIVELY FOR LUXURY TRAVEL MAGAZINE.

Whelk (a saltwater mollusc), bird’s nest, abalone: if it’s traditional Cantonese gastronomy you’re after, the Chui family restaurant, opened in 1972, is where it’s at to this day. This four-storey restaurant with the requisite round tables, chandeliers, carved wood panels and serious staff is the selfprofessed restaurant for the city’s elite. Tycoons, politicians and celebrities front up here to spend big money on the luxurious ingredients, of which millions of dollars’ worth are said to be in stock at any one time.

HONG KONG PRECINCTS BY PENNY WATSON, PUBLISHED BY HARDIE GRANT PUBLISHING, RRP: $39.95. THEPRECINCTS.COM

CITY GUIDE HONG KONG

CAFE GREY

l BEST FOR EXECUTIVE TOYS

THE GURUS SHOP

8 Cheong Ming St, Happy Valley

Big Boys’ Toys could be another name for the Gurus Shop. This contemporary place with window shopper- friendly floor-to-ceiling glass is a nifty gift shop for the (very) well-off man about town. Leica cameras, coloured binoculars, Rolex watches and Dyson propeller-less fans are stylish and practical, but you can let loose with some downright hedonistic items: the Angry Lego motorbike helmet holders, for example. The bee’s knees of gifts

is surely the Romain Jerome moon DNA watches, which are made with parts of the Apollo 11 spacecraft. They’ll set you back about HK$1 million!

l BEST FOR CHINESE FASHION

SHANGHAI TANG

1 Duddell St, Central

Born and bred in Hong Kong, this global boutique for high-end Chinese-inspired luxury should top your list of retail must-dos. Oodles of space, grand ceilings, immaculate staff and the signature ginger lily scent pervade so that the place oozes wealth

and sophistication. If your budget allows a splurge, this is the spot for tasteful gifts and souvenirs, the ones you’ll want to keep forever: colourful cheongsam Chinese-style dresses, tailored suits, horoscope cufflinks, jewellery boxes, silver-plated chopsticks and beautiful pens.

l BEST FOR CULTURE

PEDDER BUILDING

12 Pedder St, Central

Sitting narrowly on Pedder Street, surrounded by modernity, this charming eightlevel heritage building with a

colonnaded arched facade is one of Hong Kong’s elderly darlings. Upstairs, there are upmarket galleries such as contemporary Gagosian, and Chinese art specialists Pearl Lam and Hanart TZ Gallery. Other truly good finds here include The Lavish Attic, a luxury men’s accessories boutique; Burgundy Etc, a cellar devoted to the famed region; and Red Chamber Cigar Divan, a smoking lounge owned by Sir David Tang (founder of Shanghai Tang), with wood-carved furniture, antique artwork and 300 Havana cigars to puff on.

FOOK LAM MOON

THE GURU SHOP SHANGHAI TANG

FOR FASHIONISTAS PATERSON, KINGSTON & CLEVELAND STREETS

Causeway Bay

Hip young things with cash to spare will gravitate to this (relatively) quiet block where malls give way to street-level shopping. Japanese fashion brands Mercibeaucoup, Tsumori Chisato and Y3 differentiate this fashion hub from others in Hong Kong, as do lesser-franchised names such as APC, Gomme and Isabel Marant. High-end names Armani Exchange, Burberry and Max Mara mingle with edgier Zadig & Voltaire, Vivienne Westwood, Miss Sixty, Killah and Diesel. There’s the brand-heavy, good-looking European fashion house Lusso Brillante, too. Cleveland Street is shoe central – check out Camper, Shine, Religion and, for true shoe eccentrics, Brit brand Irregular Choice.

l BEST FOR BESPOKE TAILORING LAPEL

98 Wellington St, Central

It can be slightly baffling finding a tailor in Hong Kong, as they all look like carbon copies of each other. Reality check – a lot of the clothes are made in the same factory over the border in China. Look no further than Lapel. This friendly team will measure you up for a stylish classic work shirt or hand-stitched suit and have it back almost overnight. Failing that, they’ll ship it home and keep your measurements on file for reordering. The walls are lined with pinstripes and checks in Italian and English fabrics.

And for those wanting more

HELICOPTER TO MACAU

It’s only one hour to Macau by ferry, but it is a mere 15 minutes by helicopter. Departing from the Hong Kong-Macau ferry terminal in Sheung Wan, a private chopper to the former Portuguese colony is the vehicle of choice for the city’s deep-pocketed. There are 42 departures a day between 10am and 11pm. Prices start at HK$4,300 (about A$776) one-way. Don’t forget your passport.

JOIN THE CLUB

Accessed via a private lift in the old China Bank Building, the retro-chic China Club is Hong Kong elitism at its heady best. Founded by Sir David Tang of Shanghai Tang fame, this members-only establishment features an intriguing collection of

Chinese art, a bar reminiscent of Shanghai in the 1930s (complete with suited bartenders) and an exquisite library from where you can venture out onto a rooftop bar. To eat in the Chinese restaurant is to step back to a time when safari suits were de rigeur and ceiling fans whirred constantly overhead. Concierges at the city’s luxury hotels are able to score tables for visiting VIPs.

AQUA LUNA

Wooden sailing junks were once a common sight on Victoria Harbour. Today - not so much. Happily, the red sails of the marvellous Aqua Luna still billow as the vessel ploughs the busy harbour waters. The vision splendid makes for a spectacular photo opportunity. Better still, get

on board for a leisurely afternoon harbour discovery tour, a weekend cruise to the village of Stanley or a sunset cocktail cruise complete with lounge chairs and a beverage.

THREE-MICHELIN-STAR FOODIE TOUR

Executive chef Chan Yan Tak, from Lung King Heen restaurant at Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong was the first Chinese chef to earn three Michelin stars. Guests at the luxury hotel can follow in the culinary expert’s footsteps on an exploration of the city’s food scene. Start with dim sum making at Lung King Heen then head into Kowloon for a Cantonese taste test.

l BEST

HELICOPTER TO MACAU

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LEISURELY TRAVEL / THROUGHOUT RUSSIA AND CHINA ON ONE OF THE WORLD'S GREATEST RAIL ROUTES / CRUISE THROUGH THE KIMBERLEY COASTLINE OF AUSTRALIA / PLUS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN FLYING FIRST AND BUSINESS CLASS AND WE REVIEW BUSINESS CLASS AIRLINE FLIGHTS.

Above: True North at King George Falls in the Kimberley, Western Australia.

There are many places in the world where the natural beauty is unique to those countries and regions. In Australia, we are blessed to have an abundance of these jewels. The Kimberley Coast is one of them. With more than 2,600 islands and 13,000 kilometres of coastline with its untamed and remote biodiversity, it is truly one the world’s last great wilderness areas.

To truly grasp the scale and absorb the natural beauty of the Kimberley coast, you must get “up close and personal”. North Star Cruises Australia is now providing the opportunity to experience this very special environment in stress-free luxury and style through its True North Kimberley Wilderness Cruises. North Star offers “luxury adventure-cruising” on the Australian, West Papuan, and Papua New Guinea coasts aboard the Australian-registered passenger ship True North

Cruises are often regarded as relaxing affairs where eating, drinking and napping is the order of the day – with perhaps a show at night. The True North experience is nothing like that. Accommodating just 36 passengers, True North is a floating boutique luxury hotel On this intimate luxury cruiser, no expense has been spared in terms of facilities, service, and catering to provide passengers with the ultimate travel experience with an edge.

North Star Cruises is an award-winning

Australian travel company and has been running luxury adventure cruises in the Kimberley for more than 25 years. Their shortest cruise, the Kimberley Snapshot, condenses all the highlights of the region into a week-long voyage. Embarking at Wyndham, the region’s oldest and northernmost town, the cruise takes in the spectacular King George Falls, the Hunter and Prince Regent Rivers, the incredible Montgomery Reef, and the famous Horizontal Waterfalls, before the run home to Broome.

you to venture off the boat. The activities are as diverse as the changing environment. The ship has six tenders that it uses to take guests on tours to see the local surroundings, as well as for fishing trips in the pristine waters.

Above:

Kings Cascade; perhaps catch of the day?

on board there are several vantage points to best take in the sights: a sundeck, forward observation lounge, the ship’s lounge and an alfresco bar. Sustainable, organic Australian cuisine is freshly prepared (often after being freshly caught!) and served in the dining room. There’s nothing like washing down the chef’s legendary oysters Kilpatrick (made with corn-fed black pig pancetta) with a glass of champagne while savouring a spectacular Kimberley sunset from the observation deck.

Opposite page (clockwise from top left): the Kimberley from the air; True North gets in amongst it; Indigenous rock art; nosing into a waterfall; billabong picnic by helicopter.

If you’re into fishing, then you will have plenty of opportunities to snag a prized barramundi. Even if you don’t get a “barra”, there are so many different edible varieties to hook in these bountiful waters. No luck with the barras for me, but I caught many others including a big barracuda, which was incredible fun to reel in. Most of our group fished at one point or another, prompting a convivial atmosphere each night when the crew would announce the best efforts of the day. Sadly, the coveted “Best Fish of the Day” hat never graced my head.

Aside from fishing, there is a wide range of excursions available. Taking the tenders out to explore at sea level, absorbing all the sights, sounds and sensations is fantastic.

Each day aboard the True North is filled with activities from the moment you wake. Of course, you can do as much or as little as you like, but the schedule is packed with excursions that allow

Being a small ship, True North can get into bays, lagoons, estuaries and rivers that most cruise ships cannot, making the trip even more exotic. In many places, we were the only boat around, making the locations seem that much more remote.

“Experience wild rivers, cascading waterfalls, rugged gorges and rock formations, seagrass meadows, mangrove forests, and coral reefs – all teeming with life.”

KELLY GABRIEL

OLIVER OLDROYD / NORTH STAR CRUISES AUSTRALIA

The crew organise hikes and other activities ashore to ensure there is always an opportunity to walk on dry land.

More excitement comes with the onboard helicopter. Being able to see the country from a spacious and comfortable five-seater helicopter, with a guide, gives it an extra dimension of fascination.

One of the my favourite excursions is a picnic next to an incredible billabong with two huge swimming lakes and a couple of waterfalls for good measure. A swim in a billabong is something everyone should do in their lifetime – it feels really special to be swimming in fresh water in a part of the country where fresh water is so scarce. No crocodiles allowed!

The only way to get there is by helicopter so everyone is escorted in groups. The crew rope up the tarps in the trees, fold out the chairs and tables, and set about preparing a delicious barbecue picnic to make it a real Aussie lunch. There are eskies filled with beer, wine and soft drinks, tasty salads and, on the barbie, meat and fresh-caught fish turned into succulent culinary creations by our chefs. What a fantastic day as the crew take a well-earned break to enjoy the oasis with us.

Our crew director joins us at dinner each night to relay all the news of that day and plans for the next – where we are headed and what we might see and do. I really love that every day our

Dining on deck aboard True North; exploring the rugged Kimberley (left).

TRUE NORTH / THE CRUISE

All cabins on board the True North have ensuites, in-house entertainment and satellite phones. Ocean Class rooms have twin single beds; River Class cabins and Explorer Class staterooms have king-size beds, easily convertible to singles. In their Kimberley Wilderness Cruise packages,

North Star Cruises Australia offer four options aboard the True North. These range from the seven-night Kimberley Snapshot and Kimberley Barra Bonanza, to the 10-night Kimberley Waterfalls Experience and the 13-night Kimberley Ultimate. Embark or disembark from either

Broome or Wyndham. Cruises in 2016 run from May to August and bookings fill fast. Rates start at A$11,995 per person for an Ocean Class berth on the Kimberly Snapshot package to A$27,995 for an Explorer Class Stateroom on the Kimberley Ultimate Cruise. northstarcruises.com.au

“There’s nothing like washing down chef’s legendary oysters Kilpatrick –made with corn-fed black pig pancetta – with a glass of champagne, savouring a spectacular Kimberley sunset from the observation deck.”

OLIVER OLDROYD / NORTH STAR CRUISES AUSTRALIA

Discover Sri Lanka

IN LUXURY

Let us create your most memorable bespoke getaway to an island that offers inspiration, adventure, relaxation and sheer tropical indulgence. Price starts from AU$5,790 per person*

At Tropical Vacations, we define luxury as a combination of exclusivity and experience. The handpicked luxury resorts, the naturalists, butler like service from our chauffeur guides, fascinating cultural sights,

seductive beach stay along with the activities we carefully arrange, will make Sri Lanka your next best luxury getaway. We live and breath exploring the Indian Ocean and create bespoke holidays to Sri Lanka, Maldives and India.

surroundings transform. The landscape, the seascape and the colours seem to change daily, often dramatically, as if with each day we are entering a new world. And going up on deck to check out our current location never fails to be exciting. On one occasion, at King Cascades, the crew deftly steer True North right under the falls. On another, I watch astounded as the 362 square kilometres of coral that comprise Montgomery Reef rise out of the ocean as the tide subsides.

The photo opportunities are simply endless and often I can’t help but snap off a million shots. However, I try to stay in the moment, as such amazing sights are best seen with your eyes and taken in with your mind.

We go to bed exhausted each and every night because the days are so full. The crew makes sure we are always comfortable, always at hand with refreshments and that essential beer or wine at the end of the day. The True North crew is welltrained, experienced and always ready to go that extra mile to please. More than this, they love their work and the pristine locations they take us to. Fun to be around, they add to the enjoyment of the trip. In my case, they even offer a welcome shoulder to cry on when I lose that elusive barramundi I had on the hook for only a few precious seconds!

My experience on the Kimberley Coast has encompassed wild rivers, cascading waterfalls, rugged gorges and rock formations, seagrass meadows, mangrove forests and coral reefs – all teeming with life. I have seen some of the world’s largest population of humpback whales and several major seabird breeding colonies.

My experience has been a mix of expectation, excitement and exhilaration – all wrapped up in a luxury cruise liner package. This has been an experience so confronting, and yet so beautiful, that I will not soon forget it.

l STAY HERE

When travelling to the Kimberley from the east coast of Australia, Darwin is the closest main airport. We recommend the Adina Apartment Hotel in Darwin if stopping over before an early flight home or for exploring the capital of the Northern Territory. Conveniently located, the hotel’s 121 one- and two-bedroom apartments are wellappointed and overlook the Darwin Waterfront. Facilities include Curve Restaurant & Bar, a gym and a pool. The property is a 15-minute drive from Darwin Airport and one kilometre from the city centre. Rates start from A$122 per night. tfehotels.com

See more on this story at luxurytravelmag.com.au/65

NEW SHIP STRAND LUXURY ON WATER

Myanmar’s renowned Strand Hotel has launched luxury vessel The Strand Cruise on the Ayeyarwady River. Luxury trimmings on the 61m, 26-cabin cruiser include a 24-hour butler service, gourmet restaurant, wine cellar, spa, lounge library and swimming pool. Passengers can experience guided tours, tour landmarks, and visit villages to interact with the local community and culture. There are also lectures, BBQs, cocktail parties and wine-paired gourmet dinners. The Strand Cruise commences regular three- and four-night voyages between Bagan and Mandalay in January 2016. Three-night voyages are priced from US$1,782 (about A$2,527) per person, twin-share. thestrandcruise.com

ROYAL MAIDEN VOYAGES

In 2017, Cunard’s Queen Mary 2 will embark on new Australian itineraries, sailing from Sydney and Melbourne in the course of a 118-night world voyage. As part of this world voyage, in February 2017, QM2 will sail on a four-day round trip from Melbourne to Kangaroo Island in South Australia. Also in February, the ship will travel from Sydney to Port Arthur and Hobart in Tasmania on a five-night cruise. The new Australian-leg trips are priced from A$1,169 per person, twin-share. cunard.com

FIRST SAIL

The jewel in the crown of glorious Tropical North Queensland

Alamanda Palm Cove by Lancemore provides the best of all that Tropical North Queensland has to offer.

When you stay at Alamanda Palm Cove by Lancemore, the days are sun-drenched and dreamy with the sand literally at your doorstep. The nights are long and languid and, with arguably the region’s best restaurant and day spa onsite, all the ingredients are at hand for some guaranteed relaxation in the sun.

WWW.LANCEMORE.COM.AU

Richard Powell TICKS AN ELUSIVE BOX ON HIS TRAVEL BUCKET LIST BY TAKING A LUXURY PRIVATE TRAIN ON THE TRANS-SIBERIAN RAILWAY FROM MOSCOW TO BEIJING.

Entering the velvet-upholstered ‘Nostalgic Comfort’ compartment on our super-smart Zarengold private train provided me with an overwhelming sense of relief. Not because this super-plush accommodation for the grandest of great railway journeys was impeccable, with its brass fittings, sofa, armchair, desk, TV and ensuite shower, but because I no longer felt like a fraud for all those years of idle insistence about one day undertaking this trip of a lifetime, spanning seven time zones.

Rolling out of Moscow’s Yaroslavsky station as a brass band played us off, I raised a celebratory shot of vodka to toast the beginning of this most-anticipated 16-day journey to China. We had actually begun the experience on the previous night, with an expedition from

our five-star hotel in the upmarket Tverskaya district to the underground metro stations, which double spectacularly as art galleries, lit by ornate chandeliers and lined with Soviet-era statues. Above ground, we wandered through Revolution Square into Red Square, posing for pictures in front of the colourful domes of Saint Basil’s Cathedral before visiting the Kremlin.

With Moscow behind us as we raced along the 9,250km ‘iron road’ to Asia, we looked forward to visiting six more Russian municipalities. The first was Kazan, where we visited the mosque, ‘miniKremlin’ and Conservatory, where some young prodigies put on a world-class classical concert.

At Yekaterinburg, we posed for pictures at the Asia/Europe landmark and paid our respects to the last tsars in the Church On the Blood built to commemorate their deaths.

CHURCH ON THE BLOOD / YEKATERINABURG

BURYAT STATE OPERA & BALLET HOUSE / ULAN-UDE

KUL SHARIF MOSQUE / KAZAN

CONCERT / KAZAN CONSERVATORY

“As we clinked glasses and said reluctant goodbyes, I felt a satisfaction that I’d completed the world’s greatest railway journey, while others would only ever talk about it.”

FORBIDDEN CITY / BEIJING

GANDAN MONASTERY / ULAANBAATAR

TEMPLE OF HEAVEN / BEIJING

TRADITIONAL TUVAN WRESTLERS / MONGOLIA

SCORPIONS / DONGHUAMEN NIGHT MARKET, BEIJING

In Novosibirsk, we were greeted by Russian folk dancers, who offered us bread and salt. We then toured the Siberian capital’s biggest market. At Irkutsk, we met the founder of the Trans-Siberian railway, in the form of a towering statue of Alexander III, before continuing to Lake Baikal. The conductor invited us for an alfresco ride alongside the train’s engine as we skirted the ancient lake’s vast shoreline before crossing its waters – the deepest on Earth – by ferry. On the other side, we sped to our final Russian stop at Ulan-Ude, where a variety show in the city’s Stalinist-era theatre – distinguished by a gigantic stone bust of Lenin’s head – marked the end of our time in this great country.

By now, the train had come to feel reassuringly homely. Life aboard was as solitary or social as we wanted, with everyone coming together at mealtimes. Food ran the gamut of Russian cuisine from kasha (Russian porridge) to caviar and vodka, sponge cakes and black tea. Some of the train’s waiters had actually been poached from the Orient Express. Whenever the plates were cleared, the dining carriages became bars. When shooting the breeze with fellow travellers over drinks, there was never a dull moment.

Outside, a changing landscape from sprawling forest to vast grassy plains signalled our crossover into Mongolia. An overnight stay in the capital, Ulaanbaatar, allowed us to marvel at ancient monasteries nestled amid gleaming skyscrapers: a testament to the country’s nowbooming mining industry. The Buddhist Gandan Monastery, Lama Temple Museum and the five temples at Choijin Lama, with their garish statues of gods and demons overlooking the metropolis, were highlights. In the countryside, an artistic and cultural extravaganza on the lush steppes featured wrestlers, archers, falconers and expert horsemen putting on a show – with a wow factor that would probably have impressed Genghis Khan.

Passing through the Gobi Desert overnight to arrive in Northern China, we swapped our beloved private train for a simpler state locomotive, made necessary by the change in railway gauges. Before long, we were in Beijing, attempting to acclimatise to its population of 20 million people after the sparse demographic of Siberia and Mongolia.

Having settled into our final top-shelf hotel, the tour itinerary saw us visit some of China’s greatest landmarks including the Temple of

ON THE MAHARAJAS’ EXPRESS

Abercrombie & Kent has introduced a new tour through northern India that includes eight days in a Deluxe Cabin on the Maharajas’ Express. Highlights of the itinerary include exploring the highlights of Mumbai, a visit to the Taj Mahal, the famed forts and palaces of Rajasthan and a dawn boat ride on the Ganges. When not on the train, accommodation is at the Taj Mahal Palace in Mumbai, The Leela Palace in New Delhi, and Nadesar Palace in Varanasi. The two-week tour is priced from A$15,930 per person. abercrombiekent.com.au

In April 2016 a new, dedicated spa car will launch aboard Belmond Royal Scotsman as it begins its new season travelling from Edinburgh Waverley. The luxury travel company has partnered with spa brand Bamford to create the spa concept, which will have two treatment rooms offering a range of treatments; from facials and massages, to manicures and pedicures. The Haybarn Spa has been designed by Bamford architect, Spencer Fung, using Scottish sustainable wood and wood from the brand’s estate at Daylesford in the Cotswolds. It will be the first spa car aboard a train. Bamford Body products will also be distributed throughout the train’s 20 ensuite cabins. belmond.com

Heaven, the Forbidden City, the Great Wall and Tiananmen Square. With the penultimate night of our grand journey already upon us, our hosts bade us farewell with a dinner for all 200 train guests at a restaurant in the financial district. As we clinked glasses and said reluctant goodbyes, I felt a satisfaction that I’d completed the world’s greatest railway journey, while others would only ever talk about it.

THE TRANS-SIBERIAN TRAIN JOURNEY

Rates onboard the private Zarengold train –starting in Moscow or Beijing – start from around A$7,838 per person to around A$25,064 per person (not including flights). Trips run from May to September in 2016. transsiberian-travel.com

See more on this story at luxurytravelmag.com.au/65

LIFE AT THE POINTY END

WITH SO MUCH COMPETITION BETWEEN AIRLINES IN THE BUSINESS CLASS SPACE, THE PRODUCT IS CONTINUALLY IMPROVING. AVIATION EXPERT Christine Forbes Smith ASKS IF THE VALUE IS STILL THERE IN A FIRST CLASS TICKET AND PROFILES FIVE TOP AIRLINE OFFERINGS IN THE SKY-HIGH COMFORT STAKES.

First class, as etihad airways claims, is all about your own private universe – a retreat from the electronic mayhem created in the name of progress and from the intrusion, intentional or not, of other passengers. First is the ultimate in air travel carrying with it an ambience of achievement, entitlement …and a hefty price tag. Mostly the province of the rich and famous, what is it that these distinguished passengers get that their business class fellow travellers forego? The answer is a whole lot of privacy and much more space. The bedding is more luxurious, the amenities superior, bigger flat-screen TVs and, in some cases, an on-board shower.

However, with airlines striving to outdo each other in the business class stakes, the first class proposition can be a little harder to justify. Lie-flat beds are standard though smaller and less secluded than those in first. Airport lounges and separate check-in counters in both classes are exceptional and a limo service is often available for both.

Business class, which accounts for around seven per cent of passengers, is critical to airlines because it contributes a massive 30 per cent of revenue. Competition between full-service airlines is intense – as winning control of the business class market guarantees success. Our profile airlines are amongst the world’s most consistently profitable because they are trendsetters in the first class as well as the business class space.

Food and wine in both premium classes of the airlines we are reviewing are outstanding with first class just that little bit grander with such refinements as Dom Perignon Champagne being offered instead of Moët. First class passengers are treated to a seven- or eight-course restaurantstyle dining experience compared to a slightly pared-down five-course version in business. Here, we take a closer look at the first and business class offerings within five airlines.

ETIHAD AIRWAYS

Late last year, Abu Dhabi-based Etihad Airways introduced its First Class Apartments and Business Class Suites, both offering new levels of luxury and privacy. Its first class product, however, differs markedly from the business, particularly on its flagship A380, which is now operating into Australia. The First Apartments give passengers a huge armchair (77cm wide), a full-length ottoman or sofa where two more people can easily sit, a 61cm monitor that swings so passengers can watch from armchair or bed, a chilled minibar, a well-lit vanity unit with a big mirror, and a four-minute shower in a fullheight shower room.

The Business Class Suites do offer a high degree of comfort and privacy in the 1-2-1 configuration and being brand-new are at the cutting edge of technology and functionality.

EMIRATES

Emirates introduced its “Orient Express”-inspired First Class Private Suites last decade ahead of the arrival of its first A380s, which also feature spacious showers. The suites give a wonder-

ful feeling of seclusion and the exquisite wood-grain and leather treatment drip opulence. The airline’s A380s also introduced the now-iconic bar for all premium classes - you may even encounter Jennifer Aniston!

Compared with the airline’s business class, which is the more traditional open plan, Emirates’ first class delivers on privacy, but unlike Etihad, there is less room to move about.

SINGAPORE AIRLINES

Singapore Airlines launched its current first and business class offerings in 2006 on its 777-300ERs and later on its A380s. First class offers a comfortable double bed on the A380 romantically adorned with Dom Pérignon and red rose petals, but with the blunt message: “No sex please, we are Singaporean.”

On the A380s, Singapore Airlines, unlike Etihad and Emirates, has first class on the main deck ahead of economy, but separated by galleys and toilets. The cabin features two enclosed double suites and four single suites against the windows. Being on the main deck of the A380 they are a bit more spacious in width than the Emirates suites, which

Above:

A. Etihad Airways business class and

B. The Etihad first apartment. Opposite page:

C. The Emirates shower spa.

D. The Emirates onboard lounge.

E. Singapore Airlines first class.

F. Business class meal onboard Cathay Pacific.

G. First class dining on board Qantas.

A B

are on the upper deck.

Singapore Airlines offers four first class open suites, with no sliding door, on its 777-300ERs and thus the value proposition dims a little compared to its business class suites, which are outstanding.

CATHAY PACIFIC AIRWAYS

Cathay Pacific Airways’ first class open suites are amongst the most spacious at 91cm wide and as such offer a distinct value add over the airline’s new awardwinning business class suites. However, because of the design with much lower sides, they do not offer the same level of privacy as other airlines’ suites, although once seated you actually can’t see other passengers.

The airline’s 747-400s have nine first class suites in the exclusive nose area. The suites are angled away from each other and there are privacy screens on the aisle side and between centre seats to add to the seclusion.

QANTAS AIRWAYS

Like Singapore Airlines, Qantas has its first class on the main deck of its A380s. The airline offers open suites, but with a high back and surrounds that give a significant level of privacy. Its business class seats are in sets of two and not entirely private if you’re travelling as a single. Food and wine offerings are comparable, but the width and comfort of the lie-flat bed is superior in first class.

Qantas is introducing a secluded business class suite-style product for its fleet of A330s, but hasn’t yet announced a similar upgrade of its A380s.

See more on this story at luxurytravelmag.com.au/65

ETIHAD AIRWAYS EMIRATES SINGAPORE AIRLINES CATHAY PACIFIC QANTAS

AIRFARE COMPARISON: FIRST VERSUS BUSINESS CLASS RETURN FLIGHT / SYDNEY : LONDON*

* Fares vary significantly according to days and times of travel. Fares are in AUD and are the general range one can expect to pay on a Sydney-London return flight.

HIGH FLYER

LUXURY TRAVEL MAGAZINE SHOWS YOU HOW TO FLY FLAT ON POINTS FROM SYDNEY TO SAN FRANCISCO + REVIEWS OF VIRGIN AUSTRALIA, AIR INDIA AND LAN AIRLINES.

REFURBISHED SEATS

ALOHA TO LYING FLAT

Hawaiian Airlines has announced it will add lie-flat seats as part of an upgrade of the Premium Cabin on its Airbus A330 fleet. In addition to the new seats in first and business class, the airline’s premiumeconomy product, the Extra Comfort cabin, will have an additional 28 seats. The refurbished aircraft will be rolled out from mid-2016 through 2017. hawaiianairlines.com

ONEWORLD DIRECT TO DOHA

Direct daily services from Sydney and Adelaide to Doha will commence next year by Qatar Airways. The new additions bring the number of Qatar’s Australian destinations to four, with Melbourne and Perth services currently in operation. Qatar Airways was named Airline of the Year and awarded Best Business Class Airline Seat in 2015 by airline-ranking website Skytrax. Passengers flying with Qatar will have access to the airline’s two-level Al Mourjan Business Lounge at Hamad International Airport, one of the world’s largest lounges. Flights between Sydney and Doha will commence 1 March, with Adelaide flights launching in May 2016. qatarairways.com

SKYTEAM LOUNGING IN HONG KONG

Global airline alliance SkyTeam has opened its first lounge in the Greater China region at Hong Kong International Airport. The 230-person capacity lounge is available to business and first class passengers, as well as Elite Plus members of the alliance’s member airlines. Amenities include a yoga room, noodle bar serving cooked-to-order cuisine and a ‘living wall’ botanical feature. skyteam.com

CONNECTED IN BUSINESS CLASS

Fiji Airways now has iPads available as in-flight entertainment in business class on its B737 aircraft operating between Fiji and Australia, New Zealand, Hawaii and the Pacific Islands. The iPads are loaded with a range of new-release movies, television shows and music. fijiairways.com

NEW LOUNGE AT NEW YORK'S JFK

Etihad Airways passengers travelling through New York’s JFK International airport can now access a new first and business class lounge. Features include a bar, lounge and dining area; restrooms with showers; a library; male and female prayer rooms; and luggage storage. Guests flying on the luxury The Residence have access to their own private lounge. The airline has recently begun daily A380 flights between Abu Dhabi and New York. The new lounge is located in JFK’s International Terminal 4. etihad.com

AUCKLAND AIRPORT’S NEWEST LOUNGE

Air New Zealand has reopened its lounge at Auckland International Airport. With capacity for 375 guests, features include a covered outdoor terrace with a fireplace that overlooks the runway, 24 different styles of seating, including daybeds and suspended chairs, a ‘food theatre’ with cuisine cooked to order, as well as a buffet, a central bar area serving barista coffee (which can be pre-ordered from the Air New Zealand mobile app), and a designated kids’ area. There is also a separate, invitation-only lounge reserved for members of Air New Zealand’s Elite Priority One tier. airnewzealand.com.au

LOUNGE UPGRADE IN SINGAPORE

British Airways has refurbished its business and first class lounge at Singapore’s Changi Airport. The new lounge has increased capacity for passengers, as well as the airline’s first Concorde Bar for those travelling in first class, with seating for 41 passengers. Modelled on the premium Concorde Rooms at London and New York, entry to the Concorde Bar is available via a passcode or an attendant at the door. britishairways.com

THE RESIDENCE BY ETIHAD TO VISIT MELBOURNE

Etihad Airways will commence A380 services to Melbourne in June. The airline’s A380 aircraft, featuring the luxurious The Residence by Etihad, will fly daily between Melbourne and London, connecting in Abu Dhabi. Melbourne joins Sydney as the second Australian destination serviced by Etihad’s A380. Flights are due to start 1 June. etihad.com

STAR ALLIANCE

WHO DO YOU THINK OFFERS THE BEST IN LUXURY TRAVEL?

Voting is now open for the annual Luxury Travel magazine Gold List Awards 2016. Each year we ask you to tell us about your preferred luxury travel hotels, resorts, cruises, airlines, rail journeys, travel professionals and much more. Visit luxurytravelmag.com.au/goldlist2016, fill out the survey and you could win two nights’ accommodation for you and a guest in a private pavilion at Saffire Freycinet in Tasmania. Valued at $7,000, the prize includes all meals, mini bar, and Saffire complimentary experiences, plus a Schouten Island signature experience for two and luxury car hire for the duration of your stay*.

Saffire Freycinet is an intimate sanctuary on Tasmania’s East Coast that delivers sophisticated coastal style. Discreetly positioned overlooking the Hazards Mountains, Freycinet Peninsula and the pristine waters of Great Oyster Bay, Saffire blends mankind and nature with breathtaking beauty. Featuring 20 luxurious suites, exclusive day spa, restaurant, guest lounge and bar, this experience is a celebration of the art of service, internal and external wellbeing, local culinary delights, ancient landscapes and abundant wildlife. saffire-freycinet.com.au

GREATER SAFETY FOR SOLO CHILDREN TRAVELLERS

Atechnology to allow parents and guardians to track the journey of children flying unaccompanied. At check-in, children travelling alone on the airline will now receive an Airband™ embedded with a chip, which is scanned at key stages of the journey to trigger text notifications to up to five nominated contacts. The new service applies to all children aged between five and 11 travelling alone – with those aged up to 16 years also able to access the Airband™. The new service is being offered complimentary until 3 February 2016.  Bookings made from this date will incur a fee of A$15 per child for each one way domestic journey, or A$40 per child for each one-way international journey. airnewzealand.com.au

Each issue we flight test airline loyalty programs on a different route flying business class on points. We compare apples with apples. Qantas has just launched direct flights between Sydney and San Francisco, so that’s our route this issue.

Fly flat with our points comparison SYDNEY TO SAN FRANCISCO / BUSINESS CLASS (ONE WAY)

BOARDING PASS BOARDING PASS BOARDING PASS

*Note: Flying Singapore Airlines route Sydney – Singapore – Hong Kong – San Francisco. Includes 15% online booking discount

Airline frequent flyer programs are complex in part due to their alliances and partnerships, and this is where some sweet spots can be found if you study the details,” says Steve from I Fly Flat. “In this example, it requires a lower number of points when using Cathay’s Asia Miles program to fly on their Oneworld alliance partner Qantas, than using Qantas points to fly." STEVE HUI

Points analysis by Steve Hui, Points Whisperer at I Fly Flat (iFLYflat.com.au) where for a fee, they get you into Business for the price of an economy ticket.

UNACCOMPANIED MINORS

HIGH FLYER / REVIEWS

AIRLINE: VIRGIN AUSTRALIA

FLIGHT NUMBER: VA 693

AIRCRAFT: AIRBUS A330-200 VH-XFH

ROUTE: MELBOURNE TO PERTH

SEATING: “THE BUSINESS” (BUSINESS CLASS SUITES)

FLIGHT TIME: 4 HOURS AND 8 MINUTES (scheduled 4 hour s 20 mins)

SKYTRA X AIRLINE STAR RATING: 4 STARS

the cabin

Five rows in a 1 x 2 x 1 layout.

checking in Check-in can be done online, via mobile or at the airport. I used mobile check-in, which was quick, intuitive and results in an electronic boarding pass.

lounge

A business class ticket comes with access to the Virgin Australia Lounge. The lounge in Melbourne is excellent, newly refurbished and expanded, it has an array of options for travellers. Services include two barista stations, a hot and cold meals buffet, a well-stocked bar and free Wi-Fi throughout. Large windows afford excellent views of the apron. On this flight, lounge staff made a special effort to welcome passengers travelling on VA 693, explaining the new “The Business” offering to them.

alcohol

While there are a full range of alcoholic drinks to choose from, I stuck with Ayala Brut Majeur NV Champagne.

meals

There were two options for dinner, à la carte or an express service. I chose à la carte, which

has two starter options, three mains and two dessert choices; as well as breads and salad. My starter, smoked salmon with coconut, papaya, Asian herbs and lime dressing was nice, but the main, braised short rib with carrot and cumin puree, was a bit fatty. I should have listened to the recommendation of the cabin crew and selected the barramundi fillet with pearl couscous, peas and eggplant. The lemon meringue roulade was divine; the coffee from an on-board Nespresso machine.

Starter: 9/10; Main: 6/10; Dessert: 10/10; Coffee: 10/10

space

With only 20 seats in a 1-2-1 layout, “The Business” business

cabin feels spacious and exclusive. Each seat has direct aisle access. I had seat 3A, which felt very private. It was soft and comfortable with plenty of back support. The seat can be adjusted to various pre-set positions using a small touchscreen within easy reach. The leg rest, back support and headrest can also be adjusted to a custom setting.

amenities kit

Each passenger is presented with a Mandarina Duck amenities kit.

pyjamas or not

None on this flight.

entertainment

There are 16 inch touchscreens and plenty of movie and TV

choices – although only a few of the films on offer are new releases.

quality of headphones

Each seat comes with noisecancelling headphones. Top marks for sound quality and comfort. 10/10

bathroom

There are two bathrooms dedicated to the business class cabin, one forward and one aft of the cabin. They were kept spotless throughout the flight. 10/10.

baggage

Two checked bags per business class passenger, each up to 32kg. Platinum frequent flyers are welcome to check one extra bag of the same weight. Carry-on allowance is two small bags or one larger bag no more than 7kg in total.

loyalty program

Velocity Frequent Flyer is free to join and it’s easy to redeem points for upgrades or free flights. Status is relatively easy to attain and maintain compared with rival programs. Status benefits include lounge access, extra frequent flyer points, priority check-in and express boarding lane.

gripes

With the exception of my main meal choice, I had no gripes. The service was friendly and the cabin crew took time to show me all the features of the new seat. The meal service was great with crew well-informed in the meal options and wine list.

AIRLINE: AIR INDIA

FLIGHT NUMBER: AI301

AIRCRAFT: 787 DREAMLINER

ROUTE: SYDNEY TO NEW DELHI

SEATING: BUSINESS CLASS

FLIGHT TIME: 12 HOURS, 52 MINUTES

SKYTRAX AIRLINE STAR RATING: 3 STARS

the cabin

Business class seating configuration is 2 x 2 x 2 format with total capacity for 18 passengers.

checking in Check-in is timely and staff friendly. Air India passengers are given access to the Qantas business class lounge. 7/10

alcohol

I’m always one for a glass of bubbles prior to take-off. We’re served H Blin Brut Champagne. With meals, I drink the

Montagny Premier Cru made from chardonnay. I didn’t drink spirits, but brands on the list include Bacardi Rum, Remy Martin Cognac, Gordon’s Gin, Johnnie Walker Black Label 12YO, Chivas Regal 12YO and Talisker 10YO.

meals

For the main I choose the Murgh Makhani – chargrilled chicken in tomato butter gravy served with pulao, spiced vegetables and dal, followed by German Forest gâteau. At each meal there’s a choice between Western

or traditional Indian dishes. Servings are generous. 7/10

space

The bed lies flat and is very comfortable. I manage a good snooze beneath the comfort of my white quilt and beige blanket. The seat width is 56cm and I’m impressed by the amount of leg room and stowage at my feet. If in a window seat, aisle access can be negotiated with relative ease.

amenities kit

No amenity kit provided – socks and eye-mask only. On take-off and prior to landing, guests are offered a choice of hot or cold refresher towels.

pyjamas or not

No pyjamas provided.

entertainment

About 50 movie selections (choice between English and Hindu), 130 TV shows and 10 PC games (including 3D).

quality of headphones

A little large for my frame, but worked fine. 7/10.

bathroom

The toilets were clean and presentable at all times. 8/10

baggage

Business class baggage allowance is 35kg for adults and 10kg for infants. Fee for excess baggage is A$33/kg.

loyalty program

Flying Returns. Air India is a member of the Star Alliance program.

gripes

On this particular flight, there were no printed menus. I enquired, but was told there were none. However, menus were available on my return flight, so just a small glitch that didn’t detract from the overall experience.

KATRINA HOLDEN

the cabin

30 Premium Business Class seats in a 2 x 2 x 2 configuration.

checking in

Strikes are scheduled on the morning we arrive at Sydney airport, but they don’t seem to affect our transfer through check-in, security or immigration, which is a smooth and standard affair. Worth special note on the return flight from Santiago is the airline’s preferential check-in area that sees LAN and TAM preferred passengers through the airport in a matter of minutes. 10/10

which lounge did you visit on departure

In Sydney and Auckland, LAN preferred passengers have access to the Qantas lounge. In Santiago, LAN and TAM’s VIP lounge is the largest in South America and doesn’t skimp on the creature comforts. 9/10

AIRLINE: LAN AIRLINES

FLIGHT NUMBER: LA800

AIRCRAFT: LAN BOEING 787-9 DREAMLINER

ROUTE: SYDNEY TO SANTIAGO (VIA AUCKLAND)

SEATING: PREMIUM BUSINESS CLASS

FLIGHT TIME: 15 HOURS including shor t stopo ver in Auckland

SKYTRA X AIRLINE STAR RATING: 3 STARS

alcohol

Pre-take off, treat yourself to a glass of the award-winning Louis Roederer Brut. Not to be missed at dinner is the Tres Palacios 2012 Carménère. This particular varietal is considered part of the original six red grapes of Bordeaux, France. It came to Chile in the 19th century by happy accident when cuttings were confused with merlot and has since become a national favourite.

meals

Breakfast is an omelette with herb-roasted tomatoes and potatoes, fresh fruit and almost every kind of bread imaginable. Dinner is a light and delicious zucchini soup to start, followed by grilled streak with pepper sauce, sweet potato gratin and sautéed vegetables.

space

Massage seats lie completely flat. Windows are 40 per cent larger than the previous model, which

allows for spectacular views of the Andes coming into Santiago.

amenities kit

Yes. Salvatore Ferragamo.

pyjamas or not

No.

entertainment:

More than 100 movies including new releases, classics and movies from Latin America as well as more than 1,000 complete music albums.

quality of headphones

Noise-cancelling headphones with decent sound. Mind you, there’s actually not a lot of noise to be cancelled on these planes. 9/10

bathroom

Clean and comfortable bathrooms with modern design. 8/10

baggage

Business class passengers have three checked-in pieces at 23kg each. Excess of up to 32kg is charged at US$100. Passengers can take one piece of baggage up to 16kg and one personal item on board, with overhead luggage compartments 30 per cent larger than the previous 787 model.

loyalty program

LANPASS loyalty program. LAN and TAM airlines are part of the oneworld Alliance. Any passengers travelling oneworld receive the benefits of the program.

gripes

None!

AT YOUR VERY PERSONAL SERVICE

Shutting down a designer fashion boutique on the world's most exclusive strips for a private shopping spree might sound like a scene straight out of 1980s film Pretty Woman, but it's one of these moneycan't-buy moments that luxury concierge companies excel at. Concierge businesses specialise in researching and delivering all manner of experiences for clients based at home – and travellers in a foreign city wanting to make the most of their travel time.

With intimate knowledge of particular cities, personal shoppers for instance know all the hidden gems and can save travellers hours by directing them to the right stores to suit their shopping needs. In London, Elle France and Marie Claire veteran Gabrielle Teare offers personal shopping and styling services, taking advantage of her expert knowledge of the London and Paris fashion scenes (gabrielleteare.com).

New Zealand-based Angela Stone Services (angelastone. co.nz), can organise international shopping sprees for her clients.

Angela, one of New Zealand's most successful stylists, travels with clients to international fashion capitals and personally assists her customers on shopping trips to a wide range of flagship boutiques. The trips include styling workshops and an assessment of the client's most flattering colours and styles.

Concierge businesses can offer a broader service than stylists, beyond shopping, to include detailed and customised travel arrangements, and VIP experiences. Most operate on a membership basis, but some boutique companies such as Luxury Concierge China (luxuryconciergechina.com) offer their services membership-free.

Travellers visiting mainland China and Hong Kong can experience the region accompanied by experts in architecture, history, contemporary Chinese art, design and fashion.

In Dubai, the new myconcierge.com offers localised concierge services. Daunted by its enormous luxury shopping malls and abundance of premium activities, many visitors to Dubai seek to engage the help of on-the-ground professionals. The online service offers free membership, connecting its customers with high-end properties and luxury experiences, arranging anything from dune-riding adventures in the desert to finedining at Michelin-starred restaurants. The group has relationships

with almost every hotel in the UAE and are in direct touch with both mainstream and off-the-beaten track experience providers.

The 60 worldwide offices of Quintessentially (quintessentially.com) provide VIP experiences for customers who are prepared to spend considerably. A member of Virtuoso, an invitation-only network of elite travel agencies, the company has relationships with luxury partners globally. In the past, they have successfully closed a Chanel store for a private shopping session – with the expectation of a minimum spend.

Membership tiers exist with certain concierge operators whereby the highest-paying customers have access to the most benefits. The Pure Entertainment Group (purentonline.com) based in Montreal, also a member of Virtuoso, takes on a small portfolio of clients. Elite travellers can choose to become a Bespoke member: this highest level of membership starts from US$50,000 and provides customised benefits to each client as well as 24/7 concierge services.

“Recently, a VIP client from the USA contacted us because he wanted to surprise his wife at dinner with a very special gift on their anniversary – perfectly matched diamond earrings with a matching solitaire diamond pendant," says CEO Steve Edo. "Within a day, we were able to source the desired item, wrap it in a nice gift bag and deliver it to the client’s address the next afternoon. The client was thrilled and told us his wife shed tears when she saw the gift box.”

Receiving the thanks without the effort of physically shopping is a key motivator for the timepoor clients of the top concierge companies wishing to create special memories for their friends and family. On one occasion, The Pure Entertainment Group had a request from a Saudi Arabian client for the exclusive Hermès Nilo Crocodile Birkin bag. “The husband took all the credit and sent us a thankyou email because we put a big smile on his wife’s face,” says Steve.

Pure Entertainment can also deal with short time-frame requests involving travel plans. They once organised an intimate African safari for a client – complete with private jet transfers from Zurich, wine tours and spa treatments – within four days.

INTO THE WILD

Phoebe Stenning OUTLINES SOME OF THE BEST AFRICAN PHOTOGRAPHIC TOUR OPTIONS, WHERE THE ONLY TROPHIES TAKEN ARE BEAUTIFUL IMAGES OF SPECTACULAR LANDSCAPES AND MAJESTIC WILDLIFE.

The african safari experience is the ultimate frontier for photo-enthusiast travellers. Luxury lodges such as Sabi Sabi Private Game Reserve in South Africa, operating since 1979, recognise the desire of many of their guests to capture a photographic memento of their travels. The lodge offers its guests two-day guided photo tours and most recently, unveiled a custom-made game vehicle purpose built with photography in mind. The new Sabi Sabi vehicles feature cutout side panels for getting up closer to the animals, swivel chairs and fixed camera sockets to support camera equipment and allow for

sharp focus and picture clarity. The photo tours include a professional photographer who tailors your safari, with the optional camera and lens hire and a post-processing tutorial. These tours are available on request and must be pre-booked by guests. Rates start from ZAR17,000 (about A$1,683) per professional host photographer based on a two-day course for up to a maximum of six guests on an exclusive photographic vehicle. For those wanting to immerse themselves in a full photographic itinerary, the following photographic safari companies and tours offer both the guidance of professional photographers and luxury accommodation.

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC EXPEDITIONS

National Geographic’s Tanzanian expedition offers ample opportunity to capture the spectacular scenery, vibrant Maasai culture, and wildlife such as zebras, lions and wildebeest traversing the Serengeti on their annual migration. The 11-day photo safari travels between boutique lodges and luxurious permanent-tent camps. A National Geographic expert photographer accompanies each trip (plus both optional extensions: a four-day trip to Ruaha National Park, and a sixday adventure tracking gorillas in Rwanda).

2016 dates: 5-15 March, 13-23 August, 17-27 September.

Price: US$8,995 (about A$12,660) for the March tour; US$9,495 (about A$13,365) for August/ September.

NATURAL HABITAT ADVENTURES

Natural Habitat Adventures conducts photographic safaris in Kenya, Tanzania, Botswana, and Namibia during migration and green seasons. They also run a gorilla photo safari following primates through Rwanda and Uganda. Guests are accommodated at permanent tented camps and luxury lodges, plus Natural Habitat’s deluxe mobile camp, which travels with the migrating wildebeest. Minimal group sizes ensure an intimate safari and maximum interaction with expedition leaders, all expert naturalists and photographers. The African photo safaris range between eight and 15 days.

Dates: Trips in Africa run in all months except for April and May.

Price: US$5,195-US$18,995 (about A$7,312-A$26,736).

Pangolin photographic safaris in Africa use itineraries designed by photographers for photographers. They cater to every level of photographic experience and can customise tours to suit. Wildlife photography trips in Botswana, South Africa,

Namibia and Zimbabwe are specialised according to the level of photographic expertise. Four-, five- and 10-day tours are available in 2016, all accompanied by a professional photographer/ guide. On the Better Wildlife Photography Course tour,

travellers get to experience Pangolin’s customised Photo Boat with a non-vibrating motor and seats that rotate 360 degrees.

Dates: Regular departures throughout 2016.

Price: US$1,895-US$3,250 (about A$2,667-$4,575).

ANDY BIGGS

Andy Biggs’ luxury photographic tours allow travellers to capture breathtaking wildlife encounters. African wildlife safaris include The Ultimate Great Apes Safari in Rwanda and Uganda, the Great Migration in the Maasai Mara in Kenya, and The Premier Wildlife Safari in Botswana. The trips are guided by photographic professionals and cater to all levels of expertise. The safaris use private vehicles and park guides, with one person per row of seating for optimum viewing and photo ops. Luxury accommodations range from game lodges to semipermanent tented camps.

2016 dates: 10-19 June (Great Apes Safari), 23-31 August (Great Migration), 5-13 November (Premier Wildlife Safari).

Price: US$9,995-US$14,750 (about A$14,068-A$20,761).

PANGOLIN PHOTO SAFARIS

PANGOLIN PHOTO SAFARI

DENIS GLENNON ICONIC IMAGES

PANGOLIN PHOTO SAFARI

DENIS GLENNON ICONIC IMAGES

Iconic Images, owned and established by Denis Glennon AO and based in Australia, works in partnership with C4 safaris, a specialist photographic safari company based in South Africa; with some tours also partnered by Canon Australia. Travellers on these small-group tours are led by professional, award-winning photographers and stay in luxury accommodation. Iconic Images will run two African safaris in 2016.

The first is the Canon Collective Namibia photo safari, with shared access to the newest Canon highperformance equipment. The second is in the Okavango Delta in Botswana, led by Denis Glennon and Shem Compion, as well as Kane Motswana, a renowned local tracker and photographer. Groups have a maximum of 12 participants and cater to all levels of experience.

2016 dates: 22 September-8 October (Canon Collective); 2-15 November (Okavango Delta).

Price: US$12,950 (about A$18,228) for Canon Collective; US$23,750 (about A$33,428) for Okavango Delta.

OTHER PHOTOGRAPHIC SAFARIS AROUND THE WORLD

Natural Habitat Adventures

Northern Lights Photography Tour (Canada)

India’s Tigers & Wildlife: A Photo Safari

The Wild Side of China Photo Adventure

Lindblad Expeditions

Epic Galapagos Photo Expedition

Abercrombie & Kent

Iceland & Greenland: In the Wake of the Vikings Photographic Expedition

DENIS GLENNON ICONIC IMAGES

TOUR ANTHOLOGY

THE LATEST LUXURY TOURS FROM AROUND THE WORLD

SECRET LIFE OF SICILY

Carolinasusi Italia Tours will be hosting an all-inclusive Secrets of Sicily tour in 2016, taking in the sights and tastes of the Mediterranean. Highlights include a visit to Mount Etna followed by a wine-tasting lunch at a nearby vineyard, exploring the Greek ruins of Segesta, a boat trip around the island of Mozia to view Phoenician ruins, and a visit to the 17th-century town

of Noto with its baroque architecture. The Secrets of Sicily tour runs from 16 October through 31 October and is priced from A$9,850 per person, twin-share, including accommodation at four- and five-star properties, driver and coach transportation, guided tours, select local transport, select meals and wine tastings, and entry fees and excursions. carolinasusi.com.au

TOURING WITH A LEGEND

THE WILDERNESS

Kingfisher Tours is offering a one-night journey into the Kimberley wilderness this year, staying at APT’s Mitchell Falls Wilderness Lodge. Guests will embark on a 1.5-hour flight on a private aircraft to Mitchell Plateau, flying over the Ord River Dam and the Cockburn Range before landing at the lodge. Other highlights include touring Mitchell Falls by luxury 4WD, a picnic lunch at the falls and helicopter ride back to the campground, as well as exploring Port Warrender and Kalumburu. Tours are scheduled to run 1 May to 31 August and priced from A$2,475 per person, twin-share. kingfishertours.net

TCS World Travel, in partnership with Four Seasons Hotels & Resorts and acclaimed musician John Legend, are offering a private jet tour visiting New York, Paris, London and Italy to experience exclusive private art, music and cultural events. Some highlights of The Legend Experience itinerary, designed by Legend himself, include a private dinner with famed chef Marcus Samuelsson in New York, a private tour of the Valentino atelier in Paris to view the brand’s newest creations, a meeting with Aston Martin chief designer Marek Reichman and a test of the new DB11 in London, and an intimate performance by John Legend at Villa d’Este at Lake Como, Italy. The trip runs 17-26 July 2016 and is priced from US$149,000 (about A$209,483) per person, twinshare. Five per cent of the profits will go to Legend’s non-profit organisation Show Me, which aims to break the cycle of poverty through education. tcsworldtravel.com/the-legend-experience

TOUR THE KIMBERLEY FLY INTO

Meet South Africa Meet South Africa

Go to www.southafrica.net Go to www.southafrica.net

MAIN EVENT

YOUR PREMIUM ACCESS TO SPORTING AND CULTURAL EVENTS, EXPERIENCES AND FESTIVALS.

l MOTORING MAYFAIR TO MONTE CARLO

Guests on this VIP tour group to the Monaco Grand Prix will travel in style led by British racing driver and TV presenter Tiff Needell. Beginning in Ascot, you will wind through France, and relax in the Riviera before arriving for the main event in Monaco.

Maximum group size is 25 vehicles. Travellers have the option of using their own luxury vehicle or hiring one from operator Exclusive GP’s collection (Ferrari, Lamborghini, Jaguar, Bentley, Aston Martin DB9 Volante). Tourers watch the race from the Ermanno Penthouse terrace, a €65m (about A$95.2m), split-level apartment overlooking the start/finish line with views of 75 per cent of the circuit. Travellers will be provided with access to two

VIP parties, including the exclusive Amber Lounge post-race party.

When: 23-30 May

Where: Commencing in Mayfair, London; concluding in Monte Carlo.

Price: Self-drive options

start from £9,880 per person (about A$20,618).

Includes: Accommodation at luxury properties across France, lunches at premier restaurants, VIP transfers between Monaco and Nice, valet services, support vehicles, navigation

CANNES FILM FESTIVAL

iPads, and optional vehicle transport to the UK at the end of the tour. Guests have the option to spend the last three nights in Nice, or upgrade to a hotel in Monaco such as the Hotel Metropole Monte-Carlo. exclusivegp.com

The annual Cannes Film Festival sees glamour and high-profile guests visit the beautiful Cote d’Azur. Travellers can experience the festival as a VIP, with the opportunity to arrive by helicopter, walk the red carpet, dine at Michelin-starred restaurants and attend a media screening.

When: 11-22 May 2016

Where: Cannes, France.

Price: Staying at the five-star Relais & Châteaux property Cap d’Antibes Beach Hotel, prices start from £5,500 per person (about A$11,478).

Includes: Helicopter transfers from Nice to Cannes, three nights’ accommodation including breakfast, VIP tickets to a Cannes International Festival Media Screening, lunch at Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc, gourmet dinner at La Palme d’Or, VIP tickets to the Festival House Party, and VIP transfers. thisisparagon.co.uk

l FILM

ANDREA RAFFIN / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Naomi Watts walking the red carpet at the 67th Cannes Film Festival

RIO DE JANEIRO 2016 SUMMER OLYMPIC GAMES

Rio VIP Pass has access to 150 luxury properties in Rio for the 2016 Summer Games. The company has created a range of VIP Summer Games packages to assist travellers to the Olympic games with accommodation and to be their personal hosts in Rio – assisting with VIP access to Rio’s best night spots, restaurant reservations, luxury transport and sightseeing.

When: The Olympic Games run from 5-21 August, 2016.

Where: Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Price: Luxury accommodation starts from US$800-$3,000 per day about A$1,109-A$4,159) per property at luxury oceanfront properties on some of Rio’s most popular beaches. Other properties include five-star apartments in Leblon with ocean views; as well as

QUEEN ELIZABETH II 90TH BIRTHDAY CELEBRATIONS IN HENLEY

Celebrate Her Majesty the Queen’s birthday with a day of historic touring and tradition. This celebration will see you arrive in Henley-on-Thames by helicopter or chauffeured car, and cruise aboard Enchantress (pictured), which has played an important role in every Henley Royal Regatta since 1913 and carried a number of royal guests. Following lunch, visitors will spend the afternoon at Cliveden House, first built in 1666 by the 2nd Duke of Buckingham as a hunting lodge. The house has seen a parade of royal family members and notable guests such as Charlie Chaplin, Winston Churchill and President Roosevelt. Guests can enjoy a personal tour that covers the notorious history of Cliveden House before completing the afternoon with a quintessentially English afternoon tea.

When: 21 April-12 June

Where: Henley-on-Thames

Price: £1,820 (about A$3,812) per person for a party of two wanting the Platinum experience – an upgrade to helicopter transport is available, priced at £5,250 (about A$10,996).

Includes: Full chauffeur service, river cruise, expert guide, personal photographer and photo book to be sent to guests, three-course lunch, afternoon tea, refreshments, and a gift from Humphreys. humphreysofhenley.co.uk

accommodation at luxury resorts directly across from Olympic Park in Barra da Tijuca. Sample accommodation includes this five-bedroom and five-bathroom, modern design villa in Joá (pictured) with views of the Christ the Redeemer monument. Customised VIP hospitality packages are also available that can include 24-hour concierge service, luxury transfers, free tours with personal guide, some meals at fine-dining restaurants, opening and closing Olympic ceremony receptions, VIP parties, private chef and discounts at 400 restaurants. Benefits vary according to the package booked. Optional extras include security, event planning, Brazilian smartphone with WiFi, gym membership while in Rio, private yoga lessons, personal trainer, helicopter rides and a golfing schedule (golf is returning as an Olympic sport in Rio for the first time in 100 years). riovippass.com

l ROYAL CELEBRATIONS

Sports Calendar

ANNUAL TRAVEL PLANNER

START PLANNING YOUR 2016 YEAR OF SPORT USING OUR GUIDE TO THE BIGGEST AND BEST EVENTS OF THE YEAR.

JANUARY 18-31

AUSTRALIAN OPEN

● TENNIS MELBOURNE, AUSTRALI A

The annual grand slam is the first major tennis event of the year, and attracts fans and star players from around the world.

FEBRUARY 14

NBA ALL-STAR GAME

● BASKETBALL TORONTO, CANADA

The exhibition game features the league’s favourite players in a showdown between East and West. This is the first time the event will be held in Canada.

FEBRUARY 27-28

LOUIS VUITTON AMERICA’S CUP WORLD SERIES

● YACHT RACING

MUSCAT, OMAN

America's Cup sailing is headed to Oman – the first time it will be held in the Middle East. The Oman regatta will be the first round of the 2016 Louis Vuitton America’s Cup World Series, a point-scoring event for the 2017 America’s Cup.

MARCH 2-6

TRACK CYCLING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS

LONDON, UK

The world’s best in cycling compete in a number of different events for the coveted rainbow jerseys.

APRIL 7-10

US MASTERS

● GOLF AUGUSTA, GEORGIA, US

The exclusive tournament takes place annually at the historic Augusta National Golf Club in Georgia and is a highlight of the year for golf enthusiasts.

APRIL11 - MAY 3

ICC WORLD TWENTY20

● CRICKET INDIA

Sixteen teams will compete in an international competition to determine the best in cricket.

MAY 26-29

MONACO GRAND PRIX

● FORMULA 1, MOTOR RACING MONACO

The Formula One race is held annually on the famous Circuit de Monaco, and is rated one of the most glamorous motor races in the world.

Above: 2015 Australian Open Champion Novak Djokovic. In a stellar year, he captured the Wimbledon and US Open crowns, but lost to Stan Wawrinka in the French Open final.

JUNE 4

VEUVE CLICQUOT POLO CLASSIC

NEW YORK CITY, USA

JUNE 11-25

QANTAS WALLABIES VS ENGLAND TEST SERIES

● RUGBY

The historic Rugby Union event will be hosted in three locations in Australia –Suncorp Stadium, Brisbane on 11 June; AAMI Park, Melbourne on 18 June; Allianz Stadium, Sydney on 25 June. It will be the first time in the century-old rivalry between Australia and England that the two nations will meet in a three-test series.

The best polo players go head to head in the most exclusive polo competition of the season.

Bottom: The famed street circuit of the Monaco Grand Prix.

JUNE 27 - JULY 10 THE CHAMPIONSHIPS, WIMBLEDON

● TENN IS LONDON , ENGLAND

The oldest and most prestigious tennis tournament in the world guarantees spectacular matches from the biggest players.

JULY 2-24

TOUR DE FRANCE

● CYCL ING FRANC E

The famed multi-stage cycling race sees riders from around the world travel throughout France – plus forays into Switzerland, Spain and Andorra – in pursuit of the yellow jersey.

JULY

10-17

THE OPEN

● G OLF TROO N, SCOTLAND

One of the world’s biggest golfing events, the 145th British Open sees players compete for the Claret Jug on Scotland’s beautiful Royal Troon golf course.

AUGUST 5-21

RIO 2016 OLYMPIC GAMES

RIO DE JAN EIR O, BRAZIL

The biggest sporting event in the world this year takes place in Rio, promising colourful celebrations and a vast array of events that will be the culmination of years of training from the many international competitors.

AUG 27 – OCT 8

2016 RUGBY CHAMPIONSHIPS

AUSTR ALIA, NEW ZEALAND, SOUTH AFRICA, ARGENTINA

This international championship will see four rugby union teams compete for their countries in a series of home and away games throughout Australia, South Africa, New Zealand and Argentina from August through to October.

AUG 29 – SEPT 11 US

OPEN

● TENN IS NEW YORK, US

The annual tennis tournament at Flushing Meadows is the fourth and final grand slam of the year.

SEPT27 – OCT 2 RYDER CUP

Team USA versus Team Europe in the biennial men’s golfing tournament, established in 1927.

OCTOBER 2-12

AUSTRALIA VERSUS SOUTH AFRICA IN THE ONE DAY INTERNATIONAL SERIES.

● CRICKET SOUTH AFRICA

Australia will play in Centurion (30 Sept); Johannesburg (2 Oct); Durban (5 Oct); Port Elizabeth (9 Oct); and Cape Town (12 Oct).

NOVEMBER 1

MELBOURNE CUP CARNIVAL

● HORSE RACING

MELBOURNE, AUSTRALIA

Described as ‘the race that stops the nation,’ this annual racing carnival is as famous for its fashion as for its thoroughbreds.

NOVEMBER 6

NEW YORK MARATHON

NEW YORK CITY, US

The New York City Marathon is the biggest and most popular in the world, attracting some 50,000-plus entrants.

NOVEMBER 27

ETIHAD AIRWAYS ABU DHABI GRAND PRIX

● FORMULA 1, MOTOR RACING

2016 will see the longest Formula 1 season in history, culminating in a finale in Abu Dhabi. The biggest names in Formula 1 will race on the Yas Marina circuit.

DECEMBER 26

ROLEX SYDNEY HOBART YACHT RACE

● OCEAN RACING

The annual 1,170km ocean race is one of the most difficult in the world, attracting competitors from around the globe.

● GOLF HAZELTINE NATIONAL GOLF CLUB MINNESOTA, USA

Right: Motor boats follow the yachts as they jockey for the best positions at the start of the 2014 Rolex Sydney Hobart Yacht Race.

One of sports great rivalries at the Ryder Cup as the best golfers of Europe go head to head against the best golfers from America.

Cicada Lodge is a small, private sanctuary from which to embrace the ancient landscapes of Nitmiluk Gorge and Indigenous culture within the Nitmiluk National Park. The lodge is designed for the luxury traveller looking for an authentic Indigenous and natural “experience of a lifetime” in Australia’s timeless north. Nitmiluk Gorge is the centrepiece of Nitmiluk National Park, with a system of 13 immense gorges carved over the millennia by the Katherine River. More than a location of beautiful landscapes, the gorges hold great cultural value for the Jawoyn people. For these traditional owners, Nitmiluk refers to a cicada dreaming place – the place where the spirits of creation abide.

THE COMPETITION PRIZE INCLUDES:

Two nights’ accommodation at Cicada Lodge for two people (twinshare), inclusive of sunset canapés and drinks, continental breakfast, complimentary WiFi and in-house movies.

A Nit Nit Dreaming 2 Gorge Cultural Cruise for two people.

Dinner for two at Cicada Lodge restaurant

SNOW BUSINESS

John

O’Neill CHECKS OUT THE BOUTIQUE QT HOTEL IN THE VICTORIAN ALPINE VILLAGE OF FALLS CREEK.

When the innovative hotel brand qt arrived on the Gold Coast in 2011, you wondered why noone had noticed the massive hole in the market for designer boutique hotels before. Amalgamated Holdings (QT’s parent company) managing director David Seargeant had. It was his inspiration that saw QT hit this niche so perfectly. The brand has since been welcomed as a vibrant newcomer in markets as far afield as Port Douglas, Sydney, Canberra and the alpine ski

town of Falls Creek in Victoria. It is soon to be joined by sister properties in Bondi in Sydney, Melbourne; and Wellington and Queenstown in New Zealand.

QT Falls Creek has an exceptional location at the base of the resort’s main access lift, enabling the all-important ski-in/ski-out amenity not readily available on Australian ski fields. The formerly Rydges property has had a QT overlay and the rooms, while not overly spacious, include outside spas and serviceable kitchenettes.

The hotel’s Bazaar food marketplace with its retro chic interiors and energetic, youthful, hip and happy staff make it a destination and an experience – not just a bed for the night. The challenge for such endeavours in the Australian market remains labour, consistency and cost. The further away from a city location, the more challenging managing this trifecta becomes. At Falls Creek, this includes mobilising a transient workforce.

QT Falls Creek has much to recommend it and, with continued at-

tention from Seargeant’s go-to man Jordan Rodgers who, in addition to his day job as general manager at Kosciuszko Thredbo, doubles as general manager QT Hotels & Resorts - it should mature into a match for other properties in the portfolio.

Room rates at QT Falls Creek start at A$833 per night. qthotels.com.au

FAIRWAYS TO HEAVEN

THE TWIN ISLAND FEDERATION OF ST. KITTS AND NEVIS IS THE CARIBBEAN AS IT ONCE WAS 25 YEARS AGO, WRITES Peter Swain – FRIENDLY, LAID-BACK, AND THE IDEAL PLACE FOR A FEW ROUNDS OF GOLF.

With several historic hotels, a brace of brandnew international hostelries, and three (soon to be four) outstanding golf courses, St Kitts and Nevis is a destination fast gaining a reputation for both sporting excellence and lavish hospitality. At 93sq km, Nevis is the smaller of the two islands, with visitors staying either in the soigné Four Seasons or one of the stylish plantation inns. The Robert Trent Jones II golf course at the Four Seasons is consistently rated one of the best courses in the Caribbean. The undulating design is demanding, its condition pristine and the views of the forested 985m Peak above, and the cerulean ocean below, truly dramatic.

Opened in 1991, the mountainous course winds up steep slopes and across jungle-engorged ravines before plunging back down to finish within a few metres of the beach. I found the standout challenge to be the monster 550m par-5 15th hole. Downhill all the way, it plays nearer 460m, but the tee shot requires a 165m carry over a forested ghaut (ravine), so demands respect.

The scenic range and short-game area are perfect for practice, the pro shop well stocked and helpful. There isn’t a clubhouse, but players can enjoy a post-game choice of 101 rums at Mango next to the 18th green. Non-golfers appreciate the hotel’s lavish spa, several chic eateries, watersports on Pinney’s beach and the 10-court floodlit tennis complex.

Of the other five-star hotels, Montpelier Plantation is probably the pick, with the suites much in demand by honeymooners, and the French chef adding a dash of Gallic panache to the preparation of local fish such as wahoo and mahi mahi.

Also ‘up the Peak’ at Golden Rock Inn, American artists Brice and Helen Marden have transformed a former sugar mill into a botanical fantasy/hotel, with a dramatic outlook towards Montserrat. The rooms are a riot of colour and the rum punch perhaps a contender for the most potent on the island.

About 3.5km across The Narrows, the larger St. Kitts currently has two golf courses, with a third under construction. On Frigate Bay, opposite the Marriott, Royal St. Kitts was established in the mid1970s, then revamped by Thomas McBroom in 2004. Ideal for the first day of a trip, it plays close to 6,309m, with the opening holes inland followed by a spectacular closing stretch along the ocean, reminiscent of California’s Pebble Beach.

Inventive design ensures good variation between holes, with water frequently in play, but the real selling point is the exceptional USGAspec greens. The main defence is the wind, which can blow mightily at times. Rates are reasonable, good Taylor Made rentals are available, and the clubhouse restaurant is friendly and fast. The Marriott runs the golf club, so a variety of competitively priced packages are on offer.

Part of the new Kittitian Hill development at the north-west end of St. Kitts, Irie Fields is a recently established, Ian Woosnam-designed 18-holer. It is built high on a breezy hillside, featuring ocean vistas on every hole and I found it the toughest of the three current courses.

Not especially long at 5,944m, and par-71, this is a strategic, second-shot course. If you stay out of the myriad traps, the fairways are relatively generous, but I found approaches to the demanding green complexes challenging. On such an exposed site, the wind is again the joker in the playing pack. It’s also a difficult set-up to visualise first time out, so really benefits from playing several times.

The establishment is still evolving, with a new clubhouse being built and the landscaping growing in, but in time Irie Fields should become

STAY AND PLAY

Four Seasons Resort

Nevis

Rates start at US$385 (A$539) per night, for a minimum four-night stay with unlimited golf. fourseasons.com/nevis

The Marriott Rates start at US$286 (A$400) per night, minimum four-night stay, with one round per day. See Golf Packages on royalstkittsgolfclub.com

one of the Caribbean’s must-play venues. Because the fairways are lined by mango, banana, pineapple and avocado trees, it’s also described as an ‘edible course’. The fruit actually goes to the chic, on-site five-star hotel Belle Mont Farm, but respecting the local environment to create an ecologically sympathetic set-up is a laudable approach.

Increasing the choice of luxe hotels on island, 2016 sees the opening of an Embassy Suites by Hilton and a brand new Park Hyatt close to the superyacht marina at Christophe Harbour. On the hill overlooking the dock, legendary designer Tom Fazio has shaped 18 holes, with the course due for completion in 2017. When finished it could be the best course on the island, maybe even in the Caribbean.

Kittitian Hill

Rates start at US$400 (A$560) per night, plus golf from US$150 (A$210) a round. kittitianhill.com See more on this story at luxurytravelmag.com.au/65

So, there are three great courses and a fourth on the way, plus a choice of hotels and restaurants to suit every taste. But what really sets St. Kitts and Nevis apart as a luxury destination is the friendly, laid-back vibe of the locals. In their quest for upscale modernity, some islands in the region have become almost indistinguishable from resort destinations in Mexico or Thailand. But these two islands have maintained an authentic Caribbean identity while delivering all the 21st-century service trappings. For me, that’s a hole in one.

MONTPELIER PLANTATION / NEVIS

18TH HOLE AT IRIE FIELDS / ST. KITTS

BELLE MONT FARM / ST. KITTS PETER SWAIN

DEVIL’ S ADVOCATE

Elspeth Callender FINDS THE GUESTS AT A TASMANIAN SUPER LODGE ARE OFFERED THE OPPORTUNITY TO GET CLOSER TO NATURE, INCLUDING THE ISLAND'S ENDANGERED LITTLE DEVILS.

There’s something about Murray that makes me want to adopt him. He’s small, wiry, a bit unsteady on his feet and has to be isolated for meals because his mates hog all the food. Not necessarily take him home, just adopt. Falling for this little devil came as easily as feeling close to nature while at Saffire Freycinet, though both were unexpected outcomes of a luxury lodge stay.

While fresh to Saffire, I’ve visited and explored the Freycinet Peninsula on Tasmania’s east coast many times in varied weather, but the Hazards never seem to lose their impact. Dramatically framed though the expansive glass wall of Saffire’s reception area, which curves at the ceiling like a mountaintop, they appear more beguiling than ever.

After I’ve settled into my luxury suite, it’s time to meet some little devils, the Tasmanian variety. Activity guide Nicole Dyble leads us to the fenced enclosure surrounding one hectare of bushland – mainly blue gums, banksias and grass trees – where four lucky devils live in seagrass-lined dens. Solitary creatures, except for sex and snacks, they race in to the viewing window on hearing the devil wrangler’s voice. One plonks on the sunny sill.

This enclosure (along with devils Moinee, her sister Weenie, and Malcolm and his scrawny brother, Murray) has been a feature of Saffire for about a year. The devils guard, squabble over and devour their favourite edibles while we learn about the world’s largest carnivorous marsupial.

These often-misunderstood animals are opportunistic scavengers. Devils are quite predictable, silent if eating alone, have a jaw/bite force in relation to body mass that rates them among the top mammal land predators, and can consume nearly half their body weight in about 30 minutes.

Devils died out on mainland Australia long ago (between 400 and “thousands of years ago”) and have recently faced total extinction due to Devil Facial Tumour Disease (DFTD). This infectious form of cancer spreads

easily between animals that instinctively bite each other’s faces and, once tumours develop, life expectancy is six months.

A statewide initiative to find a cure for DFTD is seeing some success, but government funding has run out. Saffire’s contribution, Dyble explains, is “providing housing for the oldies”. Accommodating these devils (previously involved in the breeding initiative but now past reproductive age and unaccustomed to living wild) frees up room in breeding facilities. Three more females are booked to arrive soon.

Saffire guests can further help by adopting a devil, and all contributions

go directly to Save the Tasmanian Devil Program and Menzies Research Institute of Tasmania.

The next morning, after breakfast, I join a group for a short Freycinet walk and am happy to find that Nicole is our guide again. She knows how to provide digestible detail without oversimplifying, but can expand on certain points as questions arise.

From the van down to Sleepy Bay it’s no more than 10 minutes of walking, but we stop to discuss the growth rate of giant kelp and the necessity of bushfires for banksia regeneration and watch a flame robin flit through the casuarinas.

This page (from top): The Tasmanian devil enclosure viewing area never closes; Murray and his devil wrangler. Opposite page (clockwise from top): View of Great Oyster Bay and the Hazards; Saffire dining; rugged coastline; Tasmanian devil; devil viewing, wine in hand.

“These oftenmisunderstood animals are opportunistic scavengers. They’re quite predictable, and have a jaw/bite force in relation to body mass that rates them among the top mammal land predators.”

ELSPETH CALLENDER

Sleepy Bay is tranquil today, although the scarred beach boulders suggest the swell is rarely so slack.

From the walkway at Cape Tourville we gaze south across Thouin Bay to the entrance of Wineglass and hear about the Oyster Bay people who lived and hunted on this peninsula and whose middens remain visible along its coastline. The final stroll is to Honeymoon Bay, right beside the Hazards. Another of Saffire’s popular complimentary experiences is birdwatching from sea kayaks in the Swanport estuary. Activities coordinator Joel Daltry tells me they generally spot red knots, sooty oystercatchers, sea eagles, black swans and herons.

Meanwhile, back at the lodge, a narrow path leads through the lightly landscaped native vegetation, which merges seamlessly with the bushland, down to the beach for swimming, fishing off the rocks or walking to Coles Bay.

Similarly, Saffire’s interior doesn’t display artworks or furniture to draw attention to another time or place –the predominant view from suites and communal areas is raw Tasmanian land- and seascape. The fluidity between being inside and out at Saffire is often aspired to, but rarely achieved by high-end accommodation in natural settings. Hotels tend to overly preen the surrounding environment, plant introduced species and attempt to buffer guests from the elements. Saffire is an elegant observation platform to nature that also facilitates active as well as passive interaction with that view.

Even if you don’t go wading around an oyster farm, join a ‘connection to country’ beach stroll or stretch your arms at the archery range, just walking to meals gets you out in the fresh air, the suites have couches positioned perfectly for stargazing and that Tasmanian devil Murray’s blinds are always open.

All-inclusive room rates at Saffire Freycinet start from A$1,950 per night for a luxury suite. Read more about devil adoption and complimentary experiences appear at saffire-freycinet.com.au

See more on this story at luxurytravelmag.com.au/65

ELSPETH CALLENDER

In march 1949, newfoundland (pronounced “New-fen-LAND”) became the 10th and final province to join the nation of Canada. But if you ask the locals, they will tell you that Canada joined them. The island of Newfoundland sits on the edge of what was once the most fertile fishing ground in the world, the Grand Banks, which teemed with a seemingly endless supply of cod. However, years of relentless overfishing caused the industry to collapse, and in 1992 a moratorium was placed on fishing. More than 30,000 people lost their jobs and Newfoundland lost its identity.

However, “Newfies” are a tough breed and tourism is one of the ways the province is recovering. Fishermen who spent their life on the water are now at the helms of whale-watching boats and many of the old oceanfront cottages have been transformed into gourmet restaurants or plush B&Bs.

The sparsely populated town of Sweetland rests on the shore of a remote Canadian island. Its slow decline finally reaches a head when the mainland government offers each islander a generous resettlement package, the sole stipulation being that everyone must leave. Fierce and enigmatic Moses Sweetland, whose ancestors founded the village, is the only one to refuse. As he watches his neighbours abandon the island, he recalls the town’s rugged history and its eccentric cast of characters. tripfiction.com/books/sweetland

Cape Race is at the forefront of this rebirth. “Racers” are supplied with a car, the entry code to three impeccably restored heritage houses and a customised guidebook that is put together by owner Ken Sooley. There’s no set itinerary beyond which town

you need to be in, and the book is filled with general information, tips and local insights. The rest is up to you.

Our trip is divided into three stages with three nights each in the towns of St John’s, Heart’s Delight and Bonavista. St John’s is a compact, bustling seaport that feels more like Dublin than Vancouver. The George Street area, allegedly with more bars per square foot than anywhere in North America, buzzes with live music every night. Our home here is Hipditch House in The Battery. Windows wrap around half of the kitchen and living area, giving fantastic views over the harbour and making the house feel a bit like a ship.

We potter around the downtown area, venture out to Cape Spear Lighthouse (the most easterly point of North America) and walk the trails around Signal Hill. We drive down to Bay Bulls for a whale-watching cruise

“Those not lucky enough to be born in Newfoundland are welcomed by kissing a cod, drinking a shot of local rum and eating a capelin, a small dried fish that tastes like cat food.”

l RECOMMENDED READING

SWEETLAND by Michael Crummey

Above: The Battery, St John’s Harbour (left); Hipditch House at St John’s (right).

EJ Sooley House in Heart’s Delight (and left); Hipditch House in The Battery, St John’s (below left); The Anchor House on Bonavista Peninsula (below right).

with O’Brien’s Tours. There aren’t any whales, but thousands of seabirds dot the rocky islands including puffins, easily the cutest bird in the world. We even spot one of Newfoundland’s 120,000 moose (one for every five people), loping across the road one day, unperturbed by our presence.

In the charmingly named Heart’s Delight (just down the road from Heart’s Content and Heart’s Desire) racers stay in the EJ Sooley House, where members of Ken’s family grew up. It’s like stepping into the 1930s, complete with portraits of the royal family on every wall. Ken’s cousin-in-law Jerry invites us to a party. It’s a raucous affair with a live band playing traditional songs and a ceremonial ‘screeching in’ for the Australians. Those not lucky enough to be born in Newfoundland are welcomed by kissing a cod, drinking a shot of local rum and eating a capelin, a small dried fish that tastes like cat food.

Newfoundland is possibly the iceberg capital of the world and in Bonavista we come upon a monster berg with a huge wave-shaped break carved out of the middle. If any drift close enough to shore, the Cape Race team can hack off a chunk and pop it in in the freezer, so you can chill your cocktails with ice that’s been around for thousands of years.

The journey is not entirely without its difficulties. We do get lost – a lot. At

Clockwise from above left: Icebergs are frequent visitors to St John’s; St Paul’s Anglican Church in Trinity.

one point, a road Google Maps identified as a highway turns out to be a gravel logging road. On one long and hungry day we are reduced to a service station hot dog (the guide book does warn you to bring snacks). It’s bitterly cold. But that’s part of the fun. Cape Race is what you make it and the experiences we enjoy the most aren’t the ones you’d expect. The unexpectedly beautiful drives, the conversations with people in local stores, waking up each day to the crackling of icebergs offshore – it’s an endlessly entertaining adventure through one of the most beautiful parts of the world. Just bring a warm coat.

Cape Race runs a range of four-to 10-day tours around the east coast of Newfoundland. This trip was based on the 10-day Eco Culture Experience. Prices start from C$2,890 (about A$3,093) per person and C$250 (about A$268) per child under 21. Ken will be in touch before the tour departs to customise your guidebook and arrange the activities best suited to each group. caperace.com

l WHEN TO GO

The tour runs May to October, although mid-June to August is the best time to guarantee warmer weather and that restaurants and attractions will be open.

l GETTING THERE

Air Canada flies from Sydney to St John’s via Vancouver and Montreal. Return economy fares start from A$2,210 and total travel time is around 30 hours. aircanada.com

“It’s bitterly cold. But that’s part of the fun. Cape Race is what you make it and the experiences we enjoy the most aren’t the ones you’d expect.”

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WALK ON THE WEST SIDE

Carmen

Jenner

TAKES A TWO-NIGHT ADVENTURE ON THE CAPE TO CAPE TRAIL IN MARGARET RIVER, WESTERN AUSTRALIA WITH A LUXURY WALKING TOUR COMPANY.

Craning our necks to take in the magnitude of the star-studded, midnight-blue sky, our little pocket of Margaret River seems to be embraced by the galaxy. Walk into Luxury owner Nikki King declares, “I’ve never seen so many stars so close before.” Talk about receiving star treatment!

I’m joining Nikki for a preview of the new twonight package in Margaret River, which includes

luxury accommodation at the five-star Cape Lodge, gourmet meals and wine, as well as a personalised guided one-day trek.

Luxury aside, traversing any part of the 135km trail between Cape Naturaliste and Cape Leeuwin does require a medium level of fitness. Nikki’s tours don’t span the entire trail, but they have opened up the track to a whole new audience and the experience certainly lives up to its tagline of “a new way to walk.”

The tour begins with a five-course degustation at Cape Lodge. The following morning, our chauffeur arrives at a civilised 9am. We’re dropped off at Wyadup car park, which has sweeping views of the coastline. While ambling along the sand dunes and rocky granite coastline, we watch for whales and frolicking dolphins. We’re transferred to the lookout above Contos Beach and walk up to Cape Freycinet. It’s just us and the elements. The sun warms our journey as the ocean crashes in the distance. Lizards rustle amongst the natural perfume of rosemary as the taste of sea salt lingers on our lips.

It’s an easy stroll into Boranup Forest where we’re dwarfed by towering karris and peppermint trees as kookaburras and cockatoos laugh at us from above in our quest for a kangaroo, echidna or possum encounter. Eventually striding into

our pick-up point, we’re whisked off to Leeuwin Estate winery for a leisurely late lunch – panko crumbed oysters with a 2011 Leeuwin Estate Brut, followed by ocean trout, 45-day dry-aged Black Angus and the Leeuwin Estate Art Series wines.

Back at Cape Lodge after my walk in my lakeview suite, a platter arrives heaving with goodies including chicken soup with truffles, Rangers Valley beef, cheese, salmon and cured meats. Even though today’s 6km trek barely walked off lunch, let alone last night’s extravagances, I can’t resist.

This page (clockwise from top left): Contos Beach from the Cape to Cape Track; Cape Lodge platter; Wills Domain winery restaurant, Yallingup; Cape Lodge; Wills Domain; Leeuwin Estate oysters.

Opposite page: Towering gums in Boranup Forest.

“While ambling along the sand dunes and rocky granite coastline, we watch for whales and frolicking dolphins.”

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Tamara Hinson CYCLES BACK IN TIME ON A TWO-WHEELED TOUR OF THE MEDITERRANEAN ISLAND OF GOZO IN MALTA.

Ta' Pinu (Miracle) Church in Gharb village, Gozo.

2016 is an interesting time to visit Gozo, the smallest island of the Maltese archipelago. Why?

Because last November saw the release of By the Sea, a film directed by and starring Angelina Jolie alongside her other half, Brad Pitt. I arrive at the start of summer, when a cool coastal breeze takes the edge off the scorching Maltese sun. I’ve signed up for a cycling holiday and Gozo is a destination ideal for two-wheeled exploration. The small island, measuring just 67 square kilometres, is a 25-minute ferry ride from Malta. Roads are quiet, wide and well-maintained, and

while there are enough steep hills to burn off the huge plates of seafood linguine I consume, the beginners in our group tackle all the routes with ease.

One of our first stops is Mġarr ix-Xini Bay, where Turkish raiders landed in 1551 and where, more recently, Angelina and Brad frolicked in the sand during the filming of By the Sea. From here we travel along the cliff top, dodging sheep munching on sprigs of fragrant herbs, to Xlendi Bay, a sparkling crescent of clear blue water and bustling seafood restaurants. It’s home to some of Gozo’s wealthiest residents and their

mansions, carved from creamy local stone, rise up from the lush hills above the bay.

Gozo’s architecture has a distinct Arabic feel. In fact, there are several moments when it seems as though I’ve been transported to Tangier or Cairo. Arabs actually ruled Malta for two centuries before the arrival of the Normans in 1090. However, some of the most spectacular structures are those constructed during neolithic times. One example is Gozo’s Ggantija (“giant”) temple, built between 3600-3200 BC. Its name acknowledges the local legend that the temple was constructed by giants. It’s easy

MG ARR IX-XINI BAY

XLENDI BAY

TONY LEWIS

to believe, given that those who built it had only the most basic tools at their disposal.

Equally spectacular is the Ta` Pinu basilica, the “miracle church”. This enormous sand-coloured structure in the middle of a patchwork of bright green fields near the tiny village of Gharb is one of Gozo’s most breathtaking sites. Inside, there’s a bizarre display of items left by people who

came to pray for a miracle after relatives or loved ones had been injured in an accident. Various reminders of their trauma include crushed crash helmets, plaster casts and mangled bicycles.

Our final day is spent sampling local wine at Gozo’s Ta’ Mena Estate – Malta’s first agrotourism complex – and trying our hand at brilli, a traditional Maltese game similar

to skittles. Somehow, I manage a strike with my first roll of the ball, despite never playing the game before, and when the owner makes me promise to return for a rematch, I’m only too happy to accept.

Accommodation on the Headwater trip is at the Hotel Ta’ Cenc and Spa, rooms from €85 (about A$131) per night; and the Kempinski San Lawrenz, rooms from €108 (about A$166 per night). The six-night Highlights of Gozo cycling holiday with Headwater starts from A$1,658 per person, excluding flights.

See more on this story at luxurytravelmag.com.au/65

“Gozo’s architecture has a distinct Arabic feel –there are several moments when it seems as though I’ve been transported to Tangier or Cairo.”

GGANTIJA TEMPLE

KEMPINSKI SAN LAWRENZ

RUGGED NORTH GOZO COAST

RYOKAN HARMONY

JAPAN HAS FOUR DISTINCT SEASONS, EACH HONOURED BY A LONG-STANDING HISTORY OF HOSPITALITY. IN KAGA PROVINCE IN THE ISHIKAWA PREFECTURE, Keren Lavelle FINDS THE SUMMER PERFECTLY REFLECTED IN THE CUISINE AND CULTURAL OFFERINGS OF ITS TRADITIONAL RYOKAN ACCOMMODATION.

Halfway along the west coast of Japan’s main island of Honshu lies the town of Kanazawa, for 300 years a bastion of the noble Maeda clan, who ruled here from the late-16th century until the Meiji Restoration in 1868. Their fiefdom, the district known as Kaga, is blessed with mineral-rich soils and reliable rainfall. Despite amassing great wealth from rice production, the Maeda managed to avoid antagonising Japan’s ruling Tokugawa

shoguns by avoiding warlike posturing and patronising the arts, inviting artisans and performers to settle in the town, eventually creating a refined artistic culture that still thrives.

Experience the legacy of this culture by shopping for traditional craftware such as kaga yuzen (hand-dyed silk), lacquerware, exuberant Kutani ware pottery and gold-leaf products. Or go hands-on: make traditional sweets, try wood-turning, pottery, gold-leaf

embossing or calligraphy. Explore Kanazawa Castle, ancient home of the Maeda lords and stroll through nearby Kenrokuen Garden, once the castle estate; or discover the samurai quarter and the chaya (tea house) districts where geishas still entertain. Visit the bustling 300-year-old Omi-cho food market, dine on exquisite local cuisine and partake of a tea ceremony.

However, the best way to get a taste of Kanazawa’s noble past is to stay at a sumptuous ryokan (traditional inn) in this region renowned for onsen (hot springs). The essence of ryokan lifestyle is to relax – soak in the onsen at the end of the day and then retire to your room where a traditional kaiseki (multi-course) dinner is served in multi-platform lacquerware boxes. Each course is served immediately after it is prepared, to maintain freshness. While you

are dining, a maid makes up your futon bed. In the morning, as you breakfast, she packs it away.

Kanazawa is small enough to be easily accessible, and the boutique Ryokan Asadaya (with only five rooms) is at its heart. More than

140 years old (1867), and decorated with antiques, Ryokan Asadaya has been acclaimed as a “traditional cultural asset of Kanazawa hospitality”. When I arrived, I was greeted with a cup of robust tea which, my host explained was more like

a soup, restorative and strengthening. At Ryokan Asadaya, guest comfort is taken seriously. Guests complete a questionnaire to ascertain their preferences, right down to pillow choice, and each room is assigned a servant. Yukata (cotton kimonos) are supplied to wear after soaking in the onsen. It is summer, and the ryokan’s menu focuses on fresh fish and vegetables. Green leaves (symbols of summer) decorate most dishes and also appear as motifs on the bowls. Summer flowers adorn the reception area. Lattice has replaced sealed paper screens in walls and doors to allow cooling breezes to circulate.

Several resorts have grown up around Kaga’s onsen. Yamashiro village was created by hotels grouping around a decorative communal bathhouse near the spring’s source. Araya Totoan is best-known. An elegant ryokan

KANAZAWA CASTLE

KAY ECKER / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

The essence of ryokan lifestyle is to relax –soak in the onsen at the end of the day and then retire to your room where a traditional kaiseki (multi-course) dinner is served in multiplatform lacquerware boxes. Each course is served immediately after it is prepared, to maintain freshness.

ARAYA TOTOAN RYOKAN (AND RIGHT)

KAYOTEI RYOKAN (AND LEFT)

UCHIHASHI-TEI TEA HOUSE / KENROKUEN GARDEN

HIGASHI CHAYA-GAI / GEISHA DISTRICT

with a venerable history, nine of its 18 guest rooms are equipped with private outdoor baths. It was a favourite of artist Kitaoji Rosanjin (1883-1959) also a gourmet, and its cuisine is highly regarded. Totoan also boasts a “secret hideout” bar in an adjacent wooden cottage, originally built for a Meiji imperial visit.

In the small onsen village of Yamanaka, serene Kayotei nestles in a beautiful garden, its 10 suites arranged in the traditional style of a tea ceremony pavilion. This mountain inn maintains close connections to local artisans and producers. “We see ourselves as the inheritors and keepers of the region’s traditions,” says Shuta Takeuchi, youngest member of the family which manages the inn. The family regards the ryokan as a “vessel to showcase the region that surrounds us”. Kayotei serves

naturally harvested fish and shellfish, organic rice and vegetables – “ingredients we obtain from our local environment,” says head chef Yutaka Ebihara. Its tatami mats, ceramics and furniture are sourced from local artisans, whose workshops, farms and studios the inn can arrange for guests to visit.

l GETTING THERE

Japan Airlines (JAL) flies direct to Tokyo from Sydney, Return economy fares from Sydney are priced from A$1,231 or return business class from A$5,265. From the Tokyo airports Narita and Haneda, there are domestic flights to Komatsu Airport, or from Tokyo a very fast (bullet) train take 2.5 hours. Overseas visitors to Japan can buy a Japan Rail Pass for 7, 14 or 21 days of travel on Japan Rail’s extensive lines, including on the bullet trains (excluding the Nozomi train).

See more on this story at luxurytravelmag.com.au/65

RYOKAN ETIQUETTE

Plan your arrival for the late afternoon (by 6pm at the latest), which helps the timing for dinner to be served in your room.

Travel light – leave your heavy luggage at another hotel if you can, so your elderly maid doesn’t struggle with a huge bag unable to be rolled on the tatami matting.

Before getting into an onsen, soap and scrub your body, wash your hair, and rinse off scrupulously: sitting on a small stool makes this easier.

WHERE TO STAY

When you have dried yourself, wear your yukata with the left side over the right side (right over left is reserved for corpses). It is perfectly acceptable to wear yukata outside.

Take off your shoes at entry. House slippers or wooden sandals (geta) will be provided, if you want to walk in the garden or outside. Slip off the slippers before walking on the tatami floors of your room.

Tipping your maid is not offensive – a gift from your home country would be a gracious way to do this.

Ryokan Asadaya: room rates between ¥49,000-¥52,000 (about A$543-A$546) per night, twin-share, including dinner and breakfast. asadaya.co.jp/ryokan

Araya Totoan: room rates between ¥29,550-¥57,750 (about A$327-A$640) per night, twin-share, including dinner and breakfast. araya-totoan.com

The Kayotei: room rates between ¥38,850-¥70,350 (about A$430-A$779) kayotei.jp

KEREN LAVELLE'S VISIT WAS ASSISTED BY ISHIKAWA PREFECTURE AND JNTO.

FIELD NOTES

THE ELEPHANTS

Banyan Tours has launched a private elephant camp in the Aravali Range, near Amer in Jaipur. Guests will meet with the mahouts and help bathe the elephants. After helping to paint them in the local Jaipuri style, guests head off on a gentle ride through the forest to a tented camp with four well-appointed tents with ensuite bathrooms and rain showers. Cocktails and a home-cooked dinner are provided, with a ride back through the forest the following morning. Rates from about A$550 per night for two people. For more information contact info@ banyantours.com

GEAR & GADGETS

The new Bose SoundLink Around-Ear Wireless Headphones II have been developed to provide clear sound using a combination of TriPort technology and Active EQ, incorporating a microphone system that adapts to deliver clear calls in any environment. They are durable and light, designed for everyday mobile use with maximum comfort thanks to ear cushions and a contoured headband. Other features include a rechargeable lithiumion battery that lasts up to 15 hours, a multipoint Bluetooth system that is able to connect to two devices, audio/video syncing and intuitive controls and voice prompts. The headphones fold flat for easy storage. RRP A$379. bose.com.au

IN BOTSWANA

Belmond Eagle Island Lodge in Botswana’s Okavango Delta – a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the world’s largest inland water systems – has reopened following an almost total rebuild. Local artisans and materials have been used to create new tented guest accommodation and a new restaurant and lounge. Each of the lodge’s 12 spacious Deluxe Tented Rooms now has its own plunge pool and outdoor deck overlooking the delta. Also completely renovated is the reception area; a new restaurant with indoor and outdoor dining; and a new lounge area with bar and library. All-inclusive room rates start at US$1,560 (about A$2,167) per night. belmondsafaris.com

Victorinox, known for its highquality Swiss Army Knives, has released a limited-edition pocketknife. The RangerWood Damast Swiss army knife has a large Damascus steel blade, Swiss walnut handle and its features include a can opener with small screwdriver, a cap lifter with another screwdriver and a safety release for the lock blade. The RangerWood Damast has a production run of just 5,000 and is numbered accordingly. RRP A$699. victorinox.com

l NEW EXPERIENCE MEET

l LODGE REFURBISHMENT GLAMPING

l WELL-EQUIPPED LOOKING SHARP

l HEADPHONES WIRE-FREE LISTENING

WE VISIT LUXURY PROPERTIES ACROSS THE GLOBE / IN FIJI / TURKEY / KIMBERLEY COASTLINE, WESTERN AUSTRALIA / NEW SOUTH WALES / VICTORIA / CANBERRA / SOUTHERN FRANCE / AND SUITES IN ITALY.

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It’s difficult to imagine a more archetypal South Pacific resort than the revitalised Vomo Island. A tropical island paradise, tastefully developed to fit in with the natural beauty, from hilltop lookout to pristine sands, Vomo is like the island location from Central Casting—where the guests are the stars. Relaunched in March 2015, all the villas at Vomo were completely gutted, redesigned and refurbished. Recently named Fiji’s Leading Spa Resort 2015 at the World Travel Awards, Vomo’s facilities once again match its beautiful location, surely one of Fiji’s most enchanting island getaways.

With only 28 villas in the whole resort, the watchwords are privacy, exclusivity and luxury. There are several categories of accommodation,

ranging from the Beachfront Villas and Retreats at the shore’s edge to the Villas on the Hill with their sweeping views of island and ocean. All the villas have air-conditioning, complimentary WiFi, direct-dial phones and L’Occitane toiletries.

Apart from the five-star appointments, what I love about Vomo’s Beachfront Villas is the privacy and beach access. I can wake up first thing and, without talking to another soul, walk a few steps to the sand and flop into the warm, clear, refreshing waters of the South Pacific. What an amazing way to start the day, and something I do every morning during my stay at Vomo.

The food at this all-inclusive resort is little short of amazing, with many different tastes and spices. Vomo executive chef Erwin Joven has a reputation for fresh, innovative cuisine

and sources his produce from the best domestic and international suppliers, complemented by fresh ingredients from the resort’s own herb and vegetable gardens. The fish is always succulent and full of flavour (there are so many places around the islands where it is overcooked until dry); the wahoo, snapper and tuna expertly prepared and spiced in creative ways. So delicious is the seafood, in fact, that I eat it for lunch, dinner and even as an entree (fresh tuna ceviche or Hawaiian poke).

A short hike to the top of island is rewarded by a 360 degree view and “Kodak moments” at sunrise and sunset. Vomo is blessed with beautiful beaches on both sides of the island. If there is wind on one side, just take a short walk through the “pitch-and-putt” nine-hole golf course and

The newly refurbished Vomo Rocks Bar and extended deck (all images). Opposite page: On the beach at Vomo.

palm trees, and you’re at a calm swimming spot. For a special occasion with friends or family, Vomo has three secluded, self-contained compounds. The four-bedroom Residence comes with a 24-hour butler, while the three-bedroom Royal has its own private pool. The Beachhouse has three bedrooms, each in its own private pavilion, with ensuite bathroom and an external bathing deck and sun deck, all connected to a living complex that opens onto its own swimming pool. The décor combines Fijian élan with European elegance.

If you want to get away, but not get lost, fear

not: WiFi is excellent throughout the island. The gym is on the small side, but well-equipped, and Vomo’s complimentary Kids Village is open daily with distractions including a playroom, media room and cubby house. Children under four must be accompanied by a baby butler or nanny. While Vomo is family-friendly it also affords ample privacy, and there is always the respite of evening drinks in the Vuda Bar – no kids allowed!

Vomo has world-class snorkeling just offshore, but the further out you go, the more varied and colorful the marine life becomes. Guided snorkeling trips leave every morning

for one of the reefs surrounding the island, just 10 minutes away. Space can be limited so it’s best to sign up when you arrive. Other activities span paddle boarding, glass-bottom kayaking, windsurfing and daily fish feeding.

And then there’s the Spa…

All-inclusive room rates for Beachfront Villas start at FJ$2,709 (about A$1,747). vomofiji.com

When you land at Nadi International airport, use Island Hoppers for a seamless transfer through customs, waiting in air-conditioned comfort with WiFi, complimentary cold drinks in a private lounge, before a short, scenic helicopter flight to Vomo Island Resort. islandhoppersfiji.com

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“Vomo’s refurbished facilities once again match its beautiful location, surely one of Fiji’s most enchanting island getaways.”

This page, clockwise from top left: Vomo Villa interior; getting there via helicopter with Island Hoppers; down around the pool; Vomo Retreat outdoor bathroom. Opposite page: The deck at Vomo Rocks bar.

#INLOVE WITH SWITZERLAND

Truenorth helicopters would like to invite you to be part of our exclusive helicopter safari that will see you travel through parts of the Northern Territory and breathtaking rugged outback of the Kimberley. This safari is all about the experience from a working cattle station, natural wonders, river cruising to barefoot luxury in Australia’s remotest lodge.

With limited seats released each year, do not miss this opportunity to join us for an unforgettable holiday experience that is guaranteed to delight. Our helicopter safari is the ultimate way to see Australia’s unique, rugged and spectacular natural landscape in 5 star luxury. The wilderness of the Kimberley and the Northern Territory can only be truly appreciated by air and the freedom that the helicopter allows.

The 9 day safari will have you staying in a variety of accommodation from eco tented cabins to luxury ocean villas. The EC 145 twin engine helicopter has all forward facing seats, generous viewing windows and air-conditioning.

The destinations are fantastic and the hundreds of kilometres between them are filled with waterfalls, floodplains, crocodiles, buffalo, remote fishing holes and parts of Australia few have ever seen.

Bullo River

Bungle Bungles

Berkeley River Lodge

Kimberley Coastal Camp Prince Regent River

King George Falls Kings Cascade Mitchell Falls

TURKISH DELIGHTS

Tatyana Leonov LEARNS TO BREATHE DEEPLY AND NOURISH MIND AND BODY IN A SERENE OASIS OF WELLBEING ON THE TURKISH COAST.

Some of the finest destinations are hidden so that only the savvy traveller knows about them. They may be hard to get to, but that’s a big part of the attraction.

D-Hotel Maris in Marmaris on Turkey’s Datça Peninsula at the intersection of the Mediterranean and Aegean Seas, is one such place. For Australians, the voyage involves a flight to Istanbul, a flight to Bodrum and a helicopter or luxury car transfer to the resort.

D-Hotel Maris offers ‘Bodyism’, a holistic approach to wellness that was founded by celebrity trainer James Duigan. “Our sole purpose is to change people’s lives,” he says. Bodyism is a program that specialises in creating lean bodies and overall health through customised exercise programs and a range of supplements and health drinks with ongoing program support to its worldwide members. It’s provided at outlets in London, Maldives, Capri and Turkey.

At this resort, there is no need to leave and the choices are hardly onerous. Which of the five private white-sand (imported from Egypt) beaches should I lie on? Will I have Italian or Japanese for dinner (the hotel has six restaurants including the award-winning Zuma)? Cycling or waterskiing in

the afternoon? Or just relax in my room?

Those opting for a complete Bodyism holiday wear a special wristband so that when dining they’re presented with a Clean and Lean menu, incorporating natural and unprocessed proteins, fats and vegetables. But James is also flexible and realistic. I relish dessert, so he tells me to own it.

The day begins with outdoor yoga. We breathe deeply as rays from the rising sun salsa over the cove below.

We go sightseeing in nearby villages and atolls on one of the hotel’s yachts. I cycle in the mountains, rewarded by spectacular views. I also indulge in a therapeutic ESPA skincare treatment that leaves me feeling more rejuvenated than I thought possible.

At the end of the week, I want more. James says, “Be kind to yourself”. That means applying Bodyism to my lifestyle at home. It may also mean returning to D-Hotel Maris.

The writer flew Emirates from Sydney to Istanbul; then to Bodrum on Turkish Airlines. Rates at D-Hotel Maris start from €188 (about A$277) per night. Bodyism is a customised service with pricing dependent on guest preference.

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This page: Award-winning Zuma Restaurant is one of six at the resort; enjoy a signature ESPA treatment at the Spa. Opposite page: Travertine bathroom; Deluxe Sea View Room and view from the infinity pool.

“ Our sole purpose is to change people’s lives ... A long time ago, we identified that any change that happens in the body has to happen in the mind first. ”

I’m flying over what appears to be an endless stretch of outback. The intense late-afternoon sun streams through the windows of the eight-seater plane en route from Kununurra to Berkeley River Lodge, a luxury property on Western Australia’s Kimberley coast that can only be accessed by air or sea.

The earth below is brownishred, dotted by the gullies and trees that are markers for areas that can be completely submerged during the wet season. I take in the sights of the outback as my pilot gives a running commentary on the landmarks of the region, which include vast cattle properties such as Carlton Hill Station, one of the sites used in the Baz Luhrmann movie Australia; and the nearby Argyle Diamond Mine, which has a history reminiscent of a blockbuster movie plot. It is one of the world’s largest sources of diamonds by volume (or carats). Annual production averages about 35 million carats and the mine is also a major production hub for the rare pink diamond – the largest found in Australia weighed in at an impressive 12.76ct.

Diamonds aren’t the only luxury manufacturing coming out of the Kimberley. Indian sandalwood is also proving to be a major export for Kununurra, with the trees – the heartwood worth up to $80,000 a tonne – producing base oils for fragrances such as Chanel No. 5.

Circling over the coast, we glimpse the Berkeley River Lodge’s 20 villas perched on a cliff, half of them overlooking the Timor Sea and Reveley Island, the others with views of the Berkeley River.

We are greeted on the airstrip by general managers Ross and Jennifer Penegar, who joined the property in February 2015 after working at resorts Lizard Island and One&Only Hayman Island in Queensland. A quick drive along a red dirt road in a safari-style 4WD sees us at the property’s main building where we’re given a glass of sparkling wine to go with the panoramic ocean and outback views. The sunset is spectacular.

During a five-course meal on the poolside deck at the lodge’s

Dunes Restaurant, I try enormous New Zealand oysters topped with roe and garnished with edible flowers. Nursing an extremely full stomach, I’m shown to my villa. It’s unassuming in design, with an outdoor bathroom being the most interesting feature, indicative of the property’s barefoot-luxury style. A deep soak in the tub turns into a relaxing pre-bed ritual under the stars, which blanket the sky in this utterly remote part of the country (cell phone service is unavailable and WiFi limited).

Despite not being blessed with a tolerance for early morning wake-up calls, I don’t mind nature’s way of waking me the following morning, the sun pouring through my window and birds chirping.

The lodge provides outdoor activities such as river cruises, as well as fishing trips by boat or helicopter. Most keen fishermen and women come here to catch the elusive barramundi, but many other species thrive in the Kimberley and I – a novice – manage to hook four during my morning fishing excursion. Resident executive chef Troy Mathews catches many of the fish eventually served to guests as canapés. His tempura queenfish soon becomes a firm favourite.

Not all catches are welcome, though. One guest nonchalantly tells me about her accidental hook (and speedy release) of a three-foot saltwater crocodile, a prospect I find more terrifying than she apparently does. Saltwater crocs are ubiquitous

“I’m already wishing for more time on what feels like the edge of the Earth, for now I decide to make the most of the silence and star-filled sky with a final soak in my outdoor outback bathtub.”

and sightings are all but guaranteed on a cruise down the Berkeley River. Other wildlife I encounter include rock wallabies along the orange rock faces and a small pod of dolphins, which swim alongside the boat as we approach the river mouth on our return that afternoon.

The hot sun on the sparkling river tempts me to indulge in a refreshing dip, but swimming in the river and the ocean is discouraged due to the amount of crocodiles (not to mention several species of shark) that call these waters home. Keeping my limbs seems the sensible choice!

However, weather conditions permitting, the Berkeley River Lodge team can organise excursions to waterholes that are safe for swimming. Other options include 4WD drives along the beach, with a gourmet picnic or guided walks on the tracks along the river.

If a day of lounging about is preferred, guests can flop and drop at the resort pool, which looks out over the ocean to nearby Reveley Island. After a late-afternoon swim on my last day at the lodge, I enjoy sunset drinks with the other guests. The mood is jovial and relaxed after a busy day in the sunshine. Even though I’m already wishing for more time on what feels like the edge of the Earth, for now I decide to make the most of the silence and star-filled sky with a final soak in my outdoor outback bathtub.

Rates start from A$1,650 per night twin-share, including meals, selected beverages and selected excursions. Transfers to Berkeley River Lodge are available from Kununurra and Darwin airports, with prices from A$900 return ex-Kununurra, A$2,300 return ex-Darwin. There is no road access to the lodge. berkeleyriver.com.au

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For Australian and international travellers, accessing this remote part of the country can be a lengthy and costly exercise, so breaking up the trip is an appealing option. Scenic and cultural highlights accessible from Kununurra include Lake Argyle and the Ord River, with its vast dam and irrigation system; a scenic flight over the Bungle Bungle Range in the World Heritage-listed Purnululu National Park; a tour of local Indigenous art galleries; and Mitchell Falls. Broome is a one-hour flight from Kununurra, providing access to beautiful Cable Beach and the region’s pearl farms. Berkeley River Lodge offers transfers to and from Kununurra and Darwin, which then have connecting flights to major Australian hubs. For more information see australiasnorthwest.com

At El Questro Wilderness Park & Homestead there's little between guests and the stunning surrounds. Opposite page: Table for two overlooking the gorge.

THE MAGIC AND MYSTERY OF THE KIMBERLEY REVEALS ITSELF IN THIS WONDERFUL LUXURY HOMESTEAD EXPERIENCE, WRITES G ary Allen

Walking through the gorge it’s as if we have been dropped in the middle of Jurassic Park. Craggy red escarpments tower overhead while thick rainforest surrounds us. The ancient 25m-high rock walls are covered in rambling vines and ferns, and now and then we spot a rock wallaby. We come to a stream so clear and pure it is hard not to jump right in. We follow it to our destination, a beautiful oasis at the base of a small waterfall skirted by large boulders upon which we relax. The waterhole is large enough for a cooling swim.

Just to get to the El Questro Wilderness Park & Homestead in the remote Kimberley region of Western Australia requires a flight to Darwin, then on to Kununurra before embarking on a 100-minute 4WD journey to the homestead. Getting there is part of the adventure.

Our suite is perched above the Chamberlain Gorge. An oversized bathtub sits on the edge of the verandah and there’s a generous outdoor shower. Two comfy, largecushioned chairs are the ideal spot from which to look out over the gorge and El Questro station to the wilderness beyond. Most of

CLIFF SIDE RETREAT

CLIFF SIDE RETREAT

KELLY GABRIEL

the walls in the suite have floorto-ceiling windows, allowing for amazing views in all directions.

After meeting the other guests at cocktail hour, we sit down for a superb meal. El Questro’s menu always includes prime Australian beef and its famous barramundi, paired with the finest West Australian wines. We are not alone in our intention to get to bed early, with the promise of so much to see and do over the next few days.

At El Questro, you want to hit the ground running every morning. We fit in several hikes and a river cruise on the Chamberlain – notable for archer fish spitting water at us from two metres away!

Undoubtedly, our favorite excursion is the hike to Emma Gorge. It’s a 45-minute drive from the lodge and then another 45 minutes to hike into the gorge, but the swimming hole is beautiful.

Surrounded by steep rock walls with mini waterfalls cascading out of crevices and, allegedly, a small freshwater croc – we looked, but couldn’t find him – Emma Gorge is a glorious place to swim, relax and recharge. It’s one of three spots you can stay in the park, aside from the

WHERE TO STAY (IN TRANSIT)

official campsites. Our guides keep us informed about everything from the flora and fauna to the geology. We even enjoy some Aboriginal bush tucker, discovering that sugar ants have a sweet-and-sour flavor.

In the evenings we talk with other guests about their adventures

while enjoying delicious canapés and cocktails. Dining choices are: at the communal table, at a table for two overlooking the gorge, or on your own verandah. Sometimes you also get to see Charlie being fed. This chubby freshwater croc patiently waits below the cliff for fish to be tossed down.

El Questro is a popular start/ end point to the True North Kimberley cruise. An unexpected bonus is that half of our group is joining the cruise, which means we get to know many of our shipmates before we even set foot on the boat.

When travelling to the Kimberley from the east coast of Australia, Darwin is the closest main airport. We recommend the Adina Apartment Hotel in Darwin if stopping over before an early flight home or for exploring the capital of the Northern Territory while you’re there. Conveniently located, the hotel’s 121 one- and two-bedroom apartments are well-appointed and overlook the Darwin waterfront. Facilities include Curve Restaurant & Bar, a gym and a pool. The property is a 15-minute drive from Darwin Airport and 1km from the city centre. Rates from A$122 per night. tfehotels.com

Rates start from A$1,969 per night twin-share. Includes dining and selected beverages, and guided tours within El Questro Valley. Transfers from Kununurra are $139 per person, one way. elquestro.com.au

EUROPE 2016

“... our favorite excursion is the hike to Emma Gorge. Surrounded by steep rock walls with mini waterfalls cascading out of crevices ... Emma Gorge is a glorious place to swim, relax and recharge.”

IDYLL INTHE EYRIE

FOR A RE-ENERGISING BREAK FROM THE EVERYDAY, Kelly Gabriel FINDS SPICERS SANGOMA RETREAT IN THE BLUE MOUNTAINS HAS THAT HEALING TOUCH.

Tucked into a hillside and surrounded by bush, on the quiet side of the world-famous Blue Mountains sits the luxurious, African-inspired Spicers Sangoma Retreat. Named after the Zulu word for healer, Sangoma is an intimate hideaway perfect for a romantic getaway or a break from the hectic urban lifestyle. Perched amid giant boulders and stone ledges overlooking the Blue Mountains National Park on one side, and with distant views of Sydney on the other, it’s hard to believe you’re little over an hour’s drive from Australia’s biggest city.

The Spicers Retreats group acquired this established property in early 2015 and relaunched it as Spicers Sangoma last February.

Sangoma already carried many of the Spicers trademarks such as a beautiful natural location, an attention to personal service, an intimate atmosphere and superlative cuisine drawn from regional produce.

Warmly welcomed by head chef, and local, Sam Hardinge, we immediately get the feeling we’ll eat well on this stay. Sam is chatty and down to earth, with a couple of tattoos and a genuine smile. While we settle in on the deck, he brings out a cheese and prosciutto platter, paired with champagne, which we enjoy as we take in the vista and watch kookaburras in the nearby trees. Winding down already!

Manager Pablo and his lovely wife Lahnee make sure that we have everything we need and nothing is too much to ask. After a discussion on the different types of coffee found around the world, the next

morning Pablo stops off at a local beanery to get us a specially ground coffee. That’s the type of thoughtful service you find at Spicers Sangoma.

Our hunch about the food proves spot-on. Sam is a genius in the kitchen and the five-course degustation paired with wines is a leisurely gourmet event. We savour each course until fully sated.

It’s lucky we only have a minute’s walk to our suite, where a fire is blazing in the wood-burning stove and Van Morrison is playing on the sound system. Perfect. The Chief’s Suite is a 95sqm, twostorey, glass-and-wood structure that could well be ripped out of the pages of a glossy decorator

Escape the everyday Delamore Lodge at

magazine. Downstairs is a spacious lounge/kitchen/dining area with floor-to-ceiling windows, a deck and heated plunge pool. Upstairs is the bedroom, with another wall of windows and panoramic views that stretch out to Sydney, 80km away. On one side is an open shower and Philippe Starck bathtub, which comfortably accommodates my 2m-tall partner.

The next morning, after a breakfast of spicy shakshuka eggs with a side of crispy mushrooms and bacon, we hike the Cabbage Tree track in the National Park. Over several hours, past ancient eucalypts and large boulders, we don’t encounter another person.

After our hike, we’re glad we’d arranged a Kahuna massage at the Sangoma’s Spa Anise, a warm and cozy tented room. I struggle to stay awake while expert masseuse Tracy kneads my body like a lump of dough, the sounds of the creek outside lulling me to sleep. My husband rates it one of the best massages he has ever had.

Sometimes you just need a break from the bustle, some downtime for yourself, or maybe even time to rediscover your significant other. Spicers Sangoma Retreat has great food, plenty of quiet time, fresh air – and a fantastic bathtub. We can’t wait to return!

Tucked away in the secluded Owhanake Bay on picturesque Waiheke Island, Delamore Lodge offers stunning luxury accommodation with the utmost privacy, five-star facilities and spectacular panoramic views of the Hauraki Gulf, all just a short journey from Auckland city.

Whether you need a weekend away or a base from which to explore the beautiful Auckland region of New Zealand, Delamore Lodge will ensure you have a memorable stay.

“Warmly welcomed by head chef, and local, Sam Hardinge, we immediately get the feeling we’ll eat well on this stay.”

An all-inclusive overnight getaway package starts from A$1,199 per night, per room. spicersretreats.com/ spicers-sangoma-retreat

The luxurious and boutique Seabreeze Resort is now exclusively for adults 18yrs and over, providing the ideal romantic getaway for honeymooners and couples or those seeking luxury and intimacy.

Catering for adults, guests will enjoy a complimentary in room mini bar refreshed daily, a nightly turndown service, handy phone and a la carte breakfast daily.

Nestled into a private, secluded bay and hidden amongst coconut palms, discover the magic of this intimate, luxurious, boutique resort, catering exclusively for adults.

RISE & VINE

WITH SERENITY AND FINE DINING ON THE MORNINGTON PENINSULA, Michael Pirrie DISCOVERS AN INVITING WEEKEND ESCAPE.

My visit to lindenderry at Red Hill after many years overseas was like a journey through the mists of time, and occasional coastal fog, back to the sand dunes and beaches of my youth. Lindenderry was a fated romantic experience as well, accompanied by Christine, a fellow time traveller with whom I had reunited following a chance encounter more than 30 years after we first met on a blind date at a school ball. What could possibly go wrong? I was on a mission to impress, after all. It was Christine’s birthday and after missing the milestone last year, the pressure was on. Lindenderry came highly recommended and did not disappoint.

My original trips to the Mornington Peninsula had bypassed Red Hill in

favour of the adrenaline rush to be had at the surf beaches of Sorrento and Portsea. This time, however, the natural beauty of Red Hill and the surrounding peninsula was a constant reminder we are a lucky country still.

From its spectacular coastal views and pristine beaches, long winding roads and pleasant valleys to sheep and cattle farms and lazy hamlets, this is a beautiful part of the world. At one moment, sun peering through gaps in the clouds to shine on the ocean below and green fields behind, you could be in Scotland. The sweeping vistas and spectacular cliff formations with rolling surf backdrops at Flinders, Cape Schank and beyond down to Point Nepean are as compelling as those on the Cornish coast or maybe

California. And all this little more than an hour’s drive from Melbourne.

The homespun values of Australian life are reflected in the secluded comforts, cuisine and corkage of Lindenderry, a standout promotion for Australian tourism.

It fills the senses. Arriving at the property is like stepping into a canvas composed by the British-born, French impressionist-inspired Australian landscape artist John Tiplady. Its trees are precisely positioned and manicured to set heights to frame the guest accommodation. The dining, relaxation, day spa, pool and conference areas have been massaged into the surrounding grounds, which include an award-winning vineyard. The warmth of our welcome set the tone for a memorable stay.

This page: Eat and relax –pizza, pancakes and a seafood entree from the Lindenderry kitchen under the direction of award-winning chef Michael Greenlaw.

This tranquil place offered a range of activities, so there was something new at every turn. The majestic gardens were a delight to wander around and we could choose between a morning dip in the pool or just to relax and read the papers in the library. Tennis, table tennis, billiards and chess were also available. Another plus was that our bathroom was stocked with Christine’s favourite Appelles toiletries.

Lindenderry’s locally sourced fine dining was a highlight under the helm of

award-winning chef Michael Greenlaw, formerly of Melbourne’s Vue de Monde. The spacious dining room encouraged intimacy and staff were attentive and friendly. Menus comprised five mains and three desserts – the panacotta with autumn fruits was sublime. The mushroom pot pie side dish, which included fresh mushrooms foraged by the chef from the Lindenderry grounds, was mouth-watering. From the excellent wine selection we chose the 2010 Lindenderry Pinot Noir. Breakfast

was more low-key, with highlights the savoury egg and vegetable tarts, and the rich Bircher muesli.

Lindenderry delivered the perfect hosted experience, with abundant creature comforts, superb service and subtle surprises such as the bowls of local apples that gave the reception area such a refreshing fragrance. But it’s the staff who are the stars and they made our stay one to remember. Approachable and knowledgeable on anything that could be of interest to us during our stay they are ideal brand ambassadors for Lindenderry and the peninsula.

Room rates at Lindenderry Red Hill start from A$250.

This page: Swim in the pool, walk in the majestic gardens, relax alfresco on the deck or sit in front of a cosy fire in your room.

“Lindenderry fills the senses. Arriving at the property is like stepping into a canvas composed by the British-born, French impressionist-inspired Australian landscape artist John Tiplady.”

It’s a popular bucket list item: travel to Africa and go on safari. Experiencing first-hand the sights, sounds and smells of this enigmatic continent fires the imagination – not to mention the appeal of seeing wild animals in their natural habitat. But for many, safaris are out of reach. Africa is a long way to travel and most lodges impose an age requirement of 12 years and above – so the kids can’t come.

However, a passport is no longer required to get up close and personal with wild beasts – and Africa is as close as the nation’s capital. The Jamala Wildlife Lodge in Canberra can give you and your young adventurers an incredible experience.

The National Zoo is privately owned and operated by Richard and Maureen Tindale, who purchased the property in 1998 with a vision to rescue animals that had been in circuses or other negative environments throughout the world. The zoo contributes to a large number of breeding programs attempting to save animals from extinction. Besides staying at the lodge, you can help this effort by becoming a member or adopting an animal.

Although in the zoo grounds, the lodge has its own entrance and living areas. There are three five-star accommodation options: the Giraffe Treehouses, Jungle Bungalows and uShaka Lodge, each with various configurations to accommodate couples and families. The suites are Africanthemed and comfortable, but the real attraction is the floor-to-ceiling glass wall that allows you to actually sleep next to a wild animal. Choose from the Brown Bear, Sun Bear, Cheetah or Lion rooms – or Giraffe suites high enough off the ground to put you eye-to-eye with the giraffes that feed from the boxes near your balcony.

Three-course meals are all-inclusive and African-themed, served at long tables with other guests to create a inclusive atmosphere starting with pre-dinner drinks on a deck

One word says luxury like no other place on earth...Yasawa

adjacent to the hyena enclosure. Special guests include the male and female white lions lounging in their glass-enclosed den while you eat. Kids are offered their own exclusive tours during dinner to give parents a break.

Guests even have the opportunity to walk around with handlers and actually hand-feed lions, tigers and bears. It is truly incredible to be that close to a large, ferocious animal, and feed it meat with kitchen tongs. We also fed the giraffes and got upclose to the rhinos. It’s an amazing experience and the kids will feel like they’ve been somewhere very special, on their own personal African safari –without a long plane ride.

Rates start at A$1,000 per twin-share per night for the Giraffe Treehouse, including accommodation, all meals and dinner beverages, zoo entry and guided tours. jamalawildlifelodge.com.au

See more on this story at luxurytravelmag.com.au/65

Escape the busy working life with a perfect getaway to a remote location with the one you love, plan your island escape in Fiji.

Yasawa Island Resort & Spa offers couples the most idyllic, romantic and serene piece of paradise to spend time enjoying each other’s company in a stunning and luxurious setting will all inclusive...

• meals

• non alcoholic beverages

• all motorised & nonmotorised activities, trips & tours (excluding fishing, diving, spa)

“At dinner, special guests will include the male and female white lions that lounge in their glass-enclosed den while you eat.”

LIFE BY THE LAKE

ON A GOURMET FOODIE WEEKEND IN DAYLESFORD, Jane Ormond DISCOVERS THE LUXURY OF LAKESIDE WINING, DINING AND COOKING.

I’m up early on a Sunday morning. I am usually not a big believer in so doing, but dangle the (glazed heirloom) carrot of a culinary getaway in front of me and I’m on that freeway faster than you can say ‘eight-course degustation.’ I’m heading to Lake House, beside Lake Daylesford, about 90 minutes’ drive from Melbourne. Famed for its restaurant, it’s a lush enclave where art, food and relaxation reign supreme. My main motivation is to attend a culinary spring masterclass, but I also want to explore the new surrounds. It’s been a long time since my last deliciously memorable visit so I’m keen to see what the relentlessly creative Wolf-Tasker family have been up to.

On arrival, I’m offered a fortifying coffee under a wisteria-draped pergola before being guided inside to the Cooking School, with its fully equipped demonstration kitchen and angled mirrors above the workbench for a bird’s-eye view of the chefs at work.

Hosted by the charismatic Alla Wolf-Tasker, it’s a day of fascinating insights at the hands of hatted chefs. After class, I head to my suite for a little downtime. Ivy-clad and surrounded by a squat hedge, it looks like a country cottage from the outside, but inside, this recently refurbished Lodge Suite (part of the estate’s original owner’s lodge) is so chic yet relaxed, so luxe and spacious, you can’t help but twirl.

A fat jar of flowers from the garden, including sprigs of hypnotically tactile lamb’s ears, sits on the dining table. Light pours through the wrap-around windows, drenching the white wooden accents. Citrus-yellow velvet armchairs form a dappled reading nook in one corner, the feature fireplace is fresh out of North by Northwest, and an enormous, emerald velvet ottoman is worthy of the most photogenic lounging.

Everything is made locally and to the Taskers’ specifications, including the upholstered bedhead and the mattress, which feels luxuriously dense and feathery, as if rendered from a fairytale. There’s Elemis in the bathroom and Gosset in the minibar. When my bed is turned down, there’s an Elemis pillow spray or a temple balm waiting for me – part of the ‘aromatherapy night-time ritual’. However, for me, the biggest luxury is being spared notoriously bad hotel art. Here, thankfully, a rotating selection from the WolfTasker’s ever-expanding private collection will watch over you.

It’s now late afternoon, the golden hour, and I think a little aperitivo might be in order, so I head to the intimate Argyle Library Bar, another new addition to the Lake House, for a refreshing Negroni. It’s a lounge-like, artfilled salon with soft grey leather couches, an open fire and an epic cookbook collection – and the ideal precursor to dinner in the famed

LODGE SUITES

LODGE SUITES

ALLAN WOLF-TASKER'S STUDIO

ARGYLE LIBRARY BAR

restaurant down on the next level. Service is warm, informed but not starchy. The menu acknowledges it’s been a wild and unpredictable spring, offering bumper crops of some vegetables and slightly underwhelming crops of others, so dishes riff on availability. There’s an eight-course degustation or à la carte. I spot a dish with white asparagus, which I team with the

recycled timber tables, the Pavilion has glass walls that open out to water views and a mobile gin (or vodka) station. I can feel a sense of relaxed celebration already.

Gently caffeinated, I explore the grounds – rubbing herb bushes to scent my fingers, communing with Mishka the hotel dog. I visit Allan Wolf-Tasker’s painting studio – a thrilling, colour-smudged cave

of preparatory sketches, racks of paintings, pyramids of paint pots and an impressive vinyl collection.

I decide to round off my stay with a relaxing treatment at Salus, the on-site day spa. It has a range of wellness treatments, massages and facials, but I opt for a treetop spa filled with 100 per cent pure Daylesford mineral water. In a small cabin perched in the

treetops, I simply throw open the cantilevered wooden slat windows to welcome in the trees and relax in a warm spa. I look out through the bouncing leaves and take in the lushness below, daffodils poking up through ferns, a glimmer of the silver lake through the foliage, a posse of fat geese waddling by.

At any one time, more than 25 per cent of Lake House guests are return visitors, and there’s a reason for that. The hotel is so intrinsically entwined with the land, the seasons, the local producers and the local artists, that it never stops evolving, capturing time and place in fleeting, delicious moments – or more permanent, painted ones.

Dinner, accommodation and breakfast packages at Lake House start from A$305 per person, per night. lakehouse.com.au

“Lake House is so intrinsically entwined with the land, the seasons, the local producers and the local artists, that it never stops evolving...”

ALLA WOLF-TASKER

Experience ‘the Verve Difference’

Verve Beachside specialise in Luxury Holiday Accommodation on the Mornington Peninsula. All the components of the quintessential Australian Holiday Experience are available through Verve Beachside, experts in Travel and Leisure planning.

As a Verve Luxe Guest, you can expect to move in and find everything

you need ready and waiting, including linen & bed making, luxury toiletries, and all the essential items that you require during your stay. We can arrange everything for your complete holiday experience, weekend escape, conference or special event. Verve concierge is on hand to organise even the finest detail. The sky’s the limit!

Verve Indulgence Package

Stay at one of Verve’s Luxe Properties between 27 January – 30 April 2016 and you will receive an extra free night’s accommodation (terms and conditions apply).

 Two Bath House bathing passes to the Peninsula Hot Springs.

 Complimentary Concierge Services

 Gourmet Hamper

To view our list of Luxe Properties please log on to: www.vervebeachside.com.au/ holiday/Luxury or call 03 9866 4922

All Verve Luxe Properties are in close proximity to the Peninsula Hot Springs.

Peninsula Hot Springs is Victoria’s international award-winning natural thermal mineral springs and day spa centre.

Bouddi is an aboriginal word for “heart” – and at the heart of the Bouddi Peninsula lies the premium Pretty Beach House. It’s an easy 90-minute drive north of Sydney, or you can also get here by helicopter, ferry or a 20-minute flight from Sydney by seaplane.

Originally opened in 2009, the property was destroyed by fire and has only recently reopened. Interior designer Michelle Leslie worked with local artisans to create its new look – a mix of salvaged materials and new designs, from locally sourced sandstone to handmade mud bricks, Busatti Italian bed linen and timber beams from a dismantled bridge in Queensland. The result is warm and welcoming.

Consisting of four pavilions, Pretty Beach House has that real connection to the location typical of Luxury Lodges of Aus tralia properties. Nestled in the bush, the property has views across beautiful Bouddi National Park. It’s a short walk to the pristine sands of Lobster Beach, Box Head or Tallow Beach. A bike ride will get you to the seaside villages of Killcare, Wagstaffe or Hardys Bay. There’s lots to see, so leave time to explore.

On our first afternoon we take the mountain bikes out. After the

bush track, it’s a moderate level ride through the National Park down to Killcare beach. On a perfect spring day, except for a few happy dogs and their owners, we are the only people around. Back at our lodge, we’re greeted with a cold drink and sit around the pool reading the paper and enjoying the fresh air and sounds of the native birds.

These lodges offer the ultimate in intimate luxury. The food alone is reason to stay. The cuisine of renowned chef Stefano Manfredi (pictured left) features seasonal Italian flavours, with much of the produce coming fresh from the garden at sister property Bells at Killcare. A special offer for foodies lets you pre-book a private cooking class in the fabulous open kitchen and then sit down to enjoy your creation. Guests not wanting to play chef can order meals at any time of the day and choose where they’d like to dine – privately, in the main dining area, alfresco or even on a private boat. We favour the dining room with its open fireplace, vaulted ceilings, mood lighting and views over Box Head to the Pacific Ocean.

For dinner, we savour the five-course degustation paired with wines from an extensive range. The menu starts with a delicate crab salad followed by crisp-skin quail, lobster tail wrapped in prosciutto and, for

FRESH AIR AND BIRDSONG

STEFANO MANFREDI CUISINE

the main course, a tender Mandagery Creek venison fillet. Dessert is a light ending to a perfect meal – vanilla parfait with pear, lime and mango coulis and an espresso di Manfredi with frivolezze. Unsurpassable! And yet, the next morning, I have to say breakfast is also superb – definitely the best croissants I’ve ever tasted, and that includes Paris! Everything is made in-house or on the sister property, Bells at Killcare.

The Pretty Beach Launch can be chartered for cruises around the Bouddi waters, visiting secluded beaches and coves where you can picnic, snorkel and swim. Depending on the season, you may even see dolphins or whales. If you’re looking for more adventure, spend a full day deep-sea game fishing for marlin, tuna and shark above the continental shelf.

When you’ve finished hiking, mountain-biking and big-game fishing (oh, and there’s also The Springs Championship 18-hole golf course just 30 minutes from the house) it’s time for the Bouddi spa, which uses pure Australian botanical products from the LI’TYA range. The treatments

incorporate traditional Indigenous elements and begin with a cleansing Aboriginal smoking blend, which calls upon the healing energy of the Earth to reconnect and balance the client. For more than three hours of serenity, The Dreaming starts with a footbath, followed by an exfoliation and mud cocoon, a hot stone massage and head massage, and concludes with a facial and hand treatment. Best not to plan too much after that, you’ll be too relaxed to venture much farther than the sunbed!

Pretty Beach House offers all-inclusive, personalised and aroundthe-clock service, but it is not for all tastes. Children under 13 are only catered for with a book-out of all four pavilions by one group, and the owners emphasise the property is not serviced apartments. Daily service comes at an extra cost if required.

Rates start at A$1,000 per person, per night for twin-share, all-inclusive with meals, beverages and a ‘Welcome to Country’ Indigenous smoking ceremony. prettybeachhouse.com

“Nestled in the bush, the property has views across beautiful Bouddi National Park… there’s lots to see, so leave time to explore”

Sydney Seaplane prices start at A$605 per person return to Pretty Beach House from Rose Bay including luxury transfers from city hotels and the airport. seaplanes.com.au

SWEET DREAMS

SERENITY AT PRETTY BEACH BATH TIME

SANCTUARY OF THE A-LIST

THE ULTRA-LUXE, BOUTIQUE RESORT BRAND AMAN HAS A PASSIONATE FOLLOWING AMONG THE RICH AND FAMOUS. THEY SELF-IDENTIFY AS AMAN JUNKIES AND THEY’RE KNOWN TO DETERMINE THEIR TRAVEL DESTINATIONS BASED ON WHETHER OR NOT THERE’S ONE OF THE BRAND’S HAVENS OF SERENITY AND SOPHISTICATION IN THE REGION.

Robert Upe REPORTS ON THE LATEST NEWS FROM AMAN HEADQUARTERS.

AMAN

One of the hallmarks of the ultra-luxury aman hotel group is privacy. Paparazzi are not welcome and sometimes, when royalty or celebrities check in, staff must sign confidentiality agreements. George Clooney stayed at the seven-star Aman Canal Grande, in Venice, for his 2014 wedding to London lawyer Amal Alamuddin. There are only 24 guestrooms in the immaculately restored 16th-century palazzo that fronts the Grand Canal.

That’s the thing with Aman. The philosophy is essentially about being welcomed into the home of a friend (one who has a lot of money and good taste). The personable general managers are active hosts and each property embraces the local aesthetic. There are 30 Aman hotels,

resorts and residences in 20 countries, including Indonesia, Thailand, China, Cambodia, France and Turkey. Most are 40 rooms or under, to give them an intimate and homely feel – with the exception of the 84-room Aman Tokyo, designed by Australian architect Kerry Hill.

This urban resort, opened in 2014, is the first ‘vertical’ Aman in the world, perched on the top six floors (33rd to 38th) of the Otemachi Tower in Tokyo’s financial district. There are sliding paper screens, scattered bonsai and calming water features. Floor-to-ceiling windows provide city views and you can see Mount Fuji from the infinity pool.

‘Aman junkies’ (the name given to frequent stayers) will be pleased to know another Aman is on the way in Japan, with the opening of Amanemu this year, the group’s first hot-spring resort.

AMAN TOKYO

AMANJIWO BALI

AMANJIWO BALI

AMAN TOKYO

“That's the thing about Aman. The philosophy is about being welcomed

into the home of a friend (who has lots of money and good taste).”

There are no immediate plans to open in Australia, but Australians can easily visit the cluster of Amans in South-East Asia. One of those is the Amanjiwo in central Java, which overlooks the Buddhist temples at the UNESCO World Heritage site of Borobudur. The property, surrounded by volcanoes and lush rice paddies, has a spiritual aura.

Because of their small size, Amans pride themselves in offering experiences that may not be available at bigger hotels. At Amanjiwo, those experiences include a horse-and-cart ride through a village, chanting with monks and dinner in a local’s house. This northern winter, the Amangani, near Jackson Hole in Wyoming, is lending its guests exclusive, handmade, Italian Foil skis.

Aman also offers private jet journeys and cruises that include a

luxury yacht sailing around the Indonesian archipelago. The yacht adventure, with luxury-tented camps, visits Komodo Island to see fearsome Komodo dragons, the largest lizards in the world.

Not previously known as a resort brand with a food and wine focus, Aman are lifting its standards. Back at Venice’s Aman Canal Grande, the hotel has announced Davide Oldani as its new creative culinary consultant. The Michelin-star chef has celebrity status.

Mr and Mrs Clooney may just have to schedule another visit for their anniversary dinner.

AMANOI VIETNAMAMANZOE GREECE

AMANBAGH INDIAAMANJENA MOROCCO

VILLAGE VANTAGE POINT

The sleepy town of Chalabre is a four-hour drive from Barcelona, an 80-minute trek from Toulouse or less than an hour from the preserved mediaeval marvel that is Carcassone. Our destination is Chateau Terre Blanche, newly renovated and reopened in the European summer of 2015.

The chateau is castellated with an imposing entrance and a travertine balustrade stairway to the chateau proper. It was originally built for the mistress of a German baron and his bust is sculpted into a stone windowsill. There are “grand” and “blue” salons, a library, a pool and terrace ideal for predinner canapés, drinks and chat. A rooftop lookout delivers a glorious 360-degree view of the village and surrounds, and in season, guests are free to pick fruit from the many trees in the expansive gardens. A Moroccan-themed bathroom has been converted into a stylish Morrocan themed gymnasium/ massage room. The rich, intricate patterns of the wallpaper, the voluminous curtains, antique furniture and soft furnishings collude to create an atmosphere of elegant stateliness. Four ample guest rooms have ensuites with minimalist top-of-the-line finishes. Each room is unique, with views to the Pyrenees – and total privacy.

Guests have the option of self-catering, or the services of Michelin-starred chef Jean Marc Boyer and his seasonal menus. He also offers a cooking master class for six. Also available if required are British-trained butlers, a chauffeur, nannies, or a concierge/chef/ valet/tour guide combo in the person of Angus Longstaff, a Frenchtrained chef who has worked for five-star establishments in Paris.

Angus’ personally tailored local food and wine tours are informative, and fun. He will also make arrangements for any of your other touring wants. It is so enjoyable going with him to the local village market at Mirepoix, buying fresh produce – escargot, cheeses I’ve never seen before, salamis, hams and other smoked delights,

seafood, vegetables, bread. These markets have been here from time immemorial.

It is equally fascinating to watch Angus and Jean prepare and cook the meals. I am allowed to help listen and learn, glass of wine in hand, before enjoying a sumptuous dinner.

Nothing in Chalalabre is more than a few minutes’ walk from anything else with the shops, petanque piste, (you can have a go with the Chateau Terre Blanche boules set), river, and boulangeries with their smell and taste of fresh-baked baguettes all beckoning. Take a languid walk in the late afternoon on a country lane – the disused chemin de fer (railway line) is now a 40km walking trail.

If you want to explore further afield, the area is steeped in the history of the Cathars (Gnostic Christians who thrived between the 12th and 14th centuries) and several Cathar castles are nearby, around Narbonne and Montsegur. Visit a vineyard, take a bicycle tour from Chalabre up into the Pyrenees, or join a Canal du Midi tour, boarding a barge at Carcassonne. It’s a pleasant, meandering drive to Niaux to see the extraordinary prehistoric cave paintings. If you don’t want to hire a car, transport can easily be arranged through the chateau.

Chateau Terre Blanche is just perfect to enjoy that relaxing, authentic French village experience. Time has stood still in Chalabre, and it is wonderful! It is a very special location for three or four couples to enjoy time together. You will leave relaxed and stimulated, your palate better informed – and, if you are very careful, only a kilo or two heavier!

Rates at Chateau Terre Blanche start from €200 (about A$294) per night. www.chateaulanguedoc.com

Sandra Nori DISCOVERS THE LANGUEDOC REGION OF FRANCE IN A FULLY SERVICED CHATEAU IN THE FOOTHILLS OF THE PYRENEES.

“Chateau Terre Blanche is just perfect to enjoy that relaxing, authentic French village experience. Time has stood still in Chalabre, and it is wonderful!”

LUXURY CHIC BY THE SEA

Renowned Australian fashion designer Collette Dinnigan has lent her creative talent to the refurbishment of two penthouse suites at boutique hotel Bannisters by the Sea in Mollymook, New South Wales. Suites 29 and 30 have been redesigned to give a relaxed, coastal elegance. The casually luxurious suites have ocean views from balconies with customised cane furniture. The bedroom in Suite 29 is finished with Schumacher fabrics, brass Aerin Lauder wall fittings and a vel-

vet hand-covered chair that was sourced by Dinnigan in the south of France. The bathroom has handmade vanities with Carrera marble tops, Perrin & Rowe tapware and heated floors. Suite 30 is similarly decorated, with a separate powder room and an extended balcony on which is an antique Indian daybed. Both suites are decorated with Australian artworks and photography, as well as botanical and sea life Dinnigan found in French markets. The penthouses are priced from A$625 per night. bannisters.com.au

WHY STAY HERE?

Everyone should stay here. Once the summer house of Cardinal Tolomeo Gallio, this wonderful expression of 16th-century Late Renaissance architecture was transformed into a luxury hotel for the nobility and high bourgeoisie in 1873. Villa d’Este is pure Old World charm. Just an hour from Milan, the approach through the spectacular gardens of this magnificently manicured 10ha estate still won’t prepare you for the moment when you walk into the lobby. This is the palace of accommodation, you are its rulers and you have arrived.

RISE & SHINE BREAKFAST TIME?

The Veranda restaurant allows you to survey Lake Como and the gardens as you savour an excellent breakfast, delivered pronto by waiters happy to cater to any special needs. Afterwards, take a hike round the estate

Suite: Double Executive Suite

VILLA D ’ ESTE Lake Como

Size: Classic Doubles range from 30-50sqm

Price: Rates start at €460 (about A$800) per night for a Classic Double with courtyard view; to €4,600 (about A$6,810) per night for the Cardinal Suite. Note: Closed for the winter season until March 10, 2016.

Website: villadeste.com

Review by: Gary Allen

on the jogging trail, or try the exercise circuit.

WHAT’S FOR DINNER?

The menus are typically drawn from traditional Italian haute cuisine with an interesting variety of regional dishes with the best Italian wines. In summer, meals are served in the garden under the century-old plane trees. Our deer loin and fresh octopus for dinner at the Grill, one of the more casual dining venues, was excellent.

TIME OUT

Just visiting Lake Como and Villa d’Este is good for the soul. The treatments available in the spa ensure the body is also well looked after. We enjoyed a massage in this tranquil and soothing environment.

WOW FACTOR

Everything about Villa d’Este is jaw-droppingly ‘wow’! The gardens are magnificent. Manicured to the last detail, they’re great for a stroll. Don’t miss the 16th-century

Mosaic and its Nymphaeum as you wander. Close to the Veranda restaurant, it is a magical grotto.

COULD DO BETTER

How do you improve on perfection? There are eight tennis courts available on the grounds. I guess they could make it nine?

I WOULD LIKE AN UPGRADE

If money is no object, book the premium Cardinal Suite. At 108sqm plus a 90sqm terrace, it’s Villa d’Este’s signature style, only more of it – sumptuous furnishings, marble bathroom and rare antiques adorn this elegant self-contained apartment. Three exclusive 19th-century villas are also available for short-term rentals.

INSIDER TIP

Book well ahead. This one of the world’s premium hotels and is often entirely booked out for months in advance.

WHY STAY HERE?

The century-old Grand Hotel

Tremezzo is an art nouveau masterpiece on the shores of Lake Como adjacent to the famed Villa Carlotta gardens. Recently refurbished, the spacious three-room Emilia suite is in the 18th-century Villa Emilia, in its own wing to the side of the main hotel and attached to the spa. From the vaulted ceilings and antiques to the marble bathroom, it’s incredibly beautiful. But plan well ahead as this hotel can be booked out for months.

RISE & SHINE BREAKFAST TIME?

A delicious breakfast is served on the verandah overlooking the lake with views of Bellagio. In a word, superb.

WHAT’S FOR DINNER?

A star of modern Italian cuisine, Gualtiero Marchesi, aided by expert chef Osvaldo Presazzi,

Suite: Emilia

Size: 90sqm

GRAND HOTEL TREMEZZO

Lake Como

Price: Rates start around €893 (about A$1,324) per night, all-inclusive.

Note: Closed for the winter season until March 11, 2016.

Website: grandhoteltremezzo.com

Review by: Gary Allen

oversees a fine-dining experience not easily forgotten. That is, if you’re not already overwhelmed by the breathtaking view across Lago di Como from the La Terrazza restaurant. Living doesn’t get much better.

TIME OUT

The Hotel’s T Spa has possibly one of the world’s most beautiful infinity pools. The spa exclusively uses “ESPA” skincare and spa treatments. Try the Hammam Suite for an authentic Turkish steamroom experience.

WOW FACTOR

The bathroom in the Emilia suite is a work of art in Lasa marble and glass with a steam bath, double rain shower and oversized Jacuzzi in the centre of the room. You may never want to leave, but if you do, take the ferry and hop from village to village on the lake, starting with Bellagio.

COULD DO BETTER

The Grand Tremezzo should be ashamed of the huge assortment of premium lollies in the lobby, despite the apparent delight of

kids young and old. The hotel is one premium establishment on Lake Como that welcomes children.

I WOULD LIKE AN UPGRADE

The hotel’s pinnacle is, literally at the top, a Rooftop Penthouse, created by combining a Corner Suite and a Front Suite (the entire rooftop can be reserved on request). Each self-contained apartment has a drawing room, bedroom and exquisitely appointed marble bathroom, all opening out onto a spacious terrace, with a private mini-pool and a spectacular view.

INSIDER TIP

The Grand Hotel Tremezzo boasts the “only and most exclusive private beach on Lake Como” and a beautiful 2ha private park adjoining the Villa Carlotta gardens. Please remember us to George Clooney.

WHY STAY HERE?

This wonderful family-owned establishment is now in the capable hands of the fourth generation. While the five-star accommodation and excellent dining offer the perfect base from which to explore Piedmont’s spectacular Gran Paradiso National Park, it is the Bellevue’s famous Spa that is the chief attraction. Two swimming pools, five types of sauna, two Turkish baths, a saline cave, whirlpool bath, frosty space and fitness area are all included for guests. Specialised treatments attract charges.

RISE & SHINE BREAKFAST TIME?

The Cunéaz family care for their guests and the best indication is the food. The buffet breakfast is hearty, delicious and gives you a great start to the day. There is no more inspiring place to take breakfast than on the Terrace overlooking the Meadows of Sant’Orso towards Gran Paradiso Glacier.

Suite: Junior Suite

Size: 48sqm

BELLEVUE HOTEL & SPA COGNE

Price: Junior Suites start at €320 (about A$473) per night, twin-share, room and breakfast during low season; €420 (about A$620) for the premium capodanno period.

Website: hotelbellevue.it/en/camere/vi

Review by: Charlie Ferguson

WHAT’S FOR DINNER?

Almost anything would taste good eaten behind the picture windows of the Bellevue Restaurant. However, the chefs ensure the food is equally memorable, such is the succulence of the fresh produce, much of it from the Bellevue’s kitchen garden, and the creativity of the daily-changing menu. Dining can be enjoyed in three venues and you must try some of the best regional cheese from the cheese cellar.

TIME OUT

Voted Best Hotel Spa in Europe

in 2013, the Gran Paradiso Springs wellness centre offers all manner of treatments for face and body. Facial treatments are conducted exclusively with products by Officina Profumo Farmaceutica Santa Maria Novella. Facials start at €80.00 (about A$118).

WOW FACTOR

It’s the location of this hotel with staggering views across the Valle d’Aosta that really stands out. In summer the hiking is to die for, and in winter, activities such as alpine skiing,

icefall climbing and snowshoe excursions offer incredible vistas of the valleys below.

COULD DO BETTER

Some may find the cluttered décor of the Bellevue a little bit kitsch, even if the objets d’art are rare, authentic and expensive.

I WOULD LIKE AN UPGRADE

The self-contained chalet La Cheminée spreads over 90sqm of Alpine opulence, with two rooms, two bathrooms, its own fireplace and jacuzzi (sauna).

INSIDER TIP

During the summer, guests can visit the hotel’s alpine hut, La Maison à l’Alpage, where once a week the Bellevue chefs decamp to serve delicious grills in front of the magnificent Gran Paradiso Peak. Don’t forget to spend some time in Cogne itself. This quaint mountain town has managed to keep its charm despite the annual tourist influx.

GRAN PARADISO SPRINGS WELLNESS CENTRE

CEILING FRESCO

WHY STAY HERE?

This old and distinguished hotel on the Italian Riviera is rich in history and tradition. It opened in 1872 and was once the home of royalty. On the Mediterranean shore, it boasts 180-degree views and its own sandy beach right out front. And talk about convenient location – Royal Hotel Sanremo is only a short walk from the centre of Sanremo town and its shops and restaurants. Nice Airport and the French Riviera are a 45-minute drive, Monte Carlo just 25 minutes.

RISE & SHINE BREAKFAST TIME?

A beautiful buffet breakfast is laid out with views over the Mediterranean. Service was outstanding with plenty of staff to order up or change anything. A fresh juice bar is available with

ROYAL HOTEL SANREMO SANREMO

Suite: Penthouse Deluxe Sea View Junior Suite

Size: 48sqm

Price: From €438 (about A$644) per night

Website: royalhotelsanremo.com

Review by: Charlie Ferguson

plenty of options to have your own fresh juice made up.

WHAT’S FOR DINNER?

There are three restaurants in the hotel, plus the summer option of dining alfresco in the beautiful gazebo. With its panoramic bay windows, eating at Fiori di Murano almost feels like dining right on the sand. Menu choices range across Mediterranean, Ligurian and international cuisine, with

fixed-price or à la carte options.

TIME OUT

The Royal Wellness Spa features a hammam and hydro-massage pool.

WOW FACTOR

It is the best hotel in the area and right on the beach. During the summer months there wouldn’t be a better place to stay in this part of Italy. The heated outdoor seawater pool

COULD DO BETTER

More restaurant options in the

I WOULD LIKE AN UPGRADE

Suite Sissi is spacious and luxurious at 82sqm. It has a large outdoor terrace with sunbeds, a gazebo and a four-person jacuzzi plus a dining table for six. Inside are two bedrooms with marble bathrooms, and a common living area with plenty of lounge space.

INSIDER TIP

Make sure you reserve an oceanfront room. And take some time of an evening to sit in the Bar delle Rose and listen to the live piano music, pre-dinner drink in hand.

in front of the hotel is a work of art with its mosaic tiles and water features.

hotel.

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TRAVEL

Lifestyle + Wine + Food + Design

THIS ISSUE / DESIGN HOTEL IN NEW YORK / CHEF'S GUIDE TO LOS ANGELES / GLOBAL KITCHEN – RECIPES FROM TOKYO CELEBRITY TRAVELLER: GEORGE CLOONEY ON HIS TRAVEL HIGHLIGHTS / / EPICUREAN TRAVELS WITH THE LATEST NEWS FROM THE WORLD OF FINE FOOD AND DRINK CREATIVE TRAVELLER / AUSTRALIAN STYLIST MEGAN MORTON

INSPIRED BY ARTISTS

The remodelling of the renwick in midtown new York, has taken its creative cues from former residents of the building such as writers F Scott Fitzgerald and Thomas Mann. The 173-room hotel is named after James Renwick Jr, a Manhattan architect who, despite lacking formal training, went on to design the neo-gothic St Patrick’s Cathedral on Fifth Avenue. Under the direction of Stonehill & Taylor, the design reflects an artist’s studio. Rooms feature a number of artworks created exclusively for the hotel by local artists, easellike television stands and carpet replicating paint-spattered concrete. Restaurant Bedford & Co, under chef John DeLucie, offers ‘elevated comfort food’ such as truffle mac and cheese. The

wood-burning, open-grill kitchen serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. With 33 studios and suites, the pièce de résistance is the James Renwick Presidential Suite, channeling the decadence of the 1920s, Renwick’s architectural influences, and his travels. The suite features handmade fixtures, a sleeper sofa with arms that store sketchbooks, brass fittings by Waterworks, a Kohler whirlpool tub, a portable bar, powder room and an outdoor terrace with views of the Midtown skyline.

THE RENWICK

l STAY HERE

PHOEBE STENNING

Room rates start at US$232 (about A$327) per night. therenwickhotelnewyork.com

A chef's guide to LOS ANGELES

CALIFORNIAN CELEB CHEFS Mary Sue Milliken & Susan Feniger LIST THEIR TOP 10 FAVOURITE EATING SPOTS IN THE CITY OF ANGELS.

Californian celeb chefs Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger are known for their successful TV series Too Hot Tamales and the new Tamales’ World Tour. The two Sues also run the award-winning Border Grill restaurant in Santa Monica and have written four cookbooks. Here, they pick their favourite LA food haunts.

# 1

KOREATOWN

I love K-town for the variety in Korean restaurants and shops. The blood sausage at 8th Street Soondae, Kobawoo for chilled pork, and Park’s BBQ are all favourites.

MARY SUE

# 2

MEALS BY GENET ON FAIRFAX (LITTLE ETHIOPIA)

Genet prepares wonderful Ethiopian dishes such as doro wat and foul, perfect for scooping up with injera flat bread. There are also plenty of options for vegetarians.

SUSAN # 3

ARIS NATURAL FOODS

Found at local farmers’ markets such as Downtown LA, San Pedro and Sherman Oaks, Aris makes sheep’s milk yoghurt in delicious flavours such as plum and fig!

MARY SUE

# 4

SAMBAR IN CULVER CITY

This place has a really interesting menu inspired by India. The food is full of flavour and I just love Akasha (chef/owner) and her husband, Alan Shulman.

SUSAN

# 5

BAY CITIES ITALIAN DELI & BAKERY IN SANTA MONICA

This deli serves one of LA’s most famous sandwiches, The Godmother, made with prosciutto, ham, capicola, mortadella, Genoa salami and provolone cheese. It’s the perfect beach picnic item and we love to spend the day playing in the waves and working off those irresistible calories.

MARY SUE

# 6

GRAND CENTRAL MARKET IN DOWNTOWN LA

Downtown LA is a hotspot right now, especially at Grand Central Market where there are tons of affordable yet delicious food options: falafel at Marcapra and a super high-quality butcher, Bel Campo, to yummy, traditional pupusas at Sarita’s (there for decades) and cheeses from DTLA Cheese.

MARY SUE

Abundant choice at Grand Central Market in Downtown Los Angeles (above); Koreatown delights (top, both images).

# 7

ROC KITCHEN ON SAWTELLE

I live on the Westside and often satisfy my craving for great Taiwanese-style soup dumplings here.

SUSAN

# 8

K-ZO SUSHI RESTAURANT IN CULVER CITY

The restaurant offers a private booth with a stainless-steel, beaded curtain that we always reserve for family birthdays and homecomings. It’s our favourite table in LA.

# 9 COOLHAUS

I’m such a fan of Coolhaus and their architecturally-inspired ice-cream sandwiches. If you’re craving ice-cream and can’t find the truck, they also have two shops in the LA area in Pasadena and Culver City.

SUSAN # 10 VERONICA’S KITCHEN IN INGLEWOOD

This is a fantastic Nigerian restaurant, which serves amazingly yummy food.

SUSAN

SIMPLY TOKYO

TOKYO NATIVE PRIVATE CHEF Maori Murota HAS COMPILED A SERIES OF EASY-TO-MAKE RECIPES THAT SHOWCASE THE GASTRONOMIC HUB OF TOKYO. HERE ARE FOUR EXTRACTED RECIPES FROM HER BOOK, ALONG WITH WINE RECOMMENDATIONS BY MASTER SOMMELIER, SEBASTIAN CROWTHER.

AGEDASHI DOFU (FRIED TOFU WITH DASHI)

l RECIPES AND IMAGES FROM TOKYO CULT RECIPES BY MAORI MUROTA, WHO AIMS TO DEMYSTIFY DAUNTING JAPANESE RECIPES INTO SIMPLE-TO-PREPARE MEALS. AVAILABLE NOW IN BOOKSTORES AND ONLINE (MURDOCH BOOKS) A$49.99.

AGEDASHI DOFU

Fried tofu with dashi serves: four

20 minutes preparation time

+30 minutes resting time

4 minutes cooking time

the ingredients

250g momen tofu

50g plain (all-purpose) flour

Sunflower oil, for frying

2cm white radish (daikon), grated.

(You can use black radish as a substitute, but daikon is much larger and milder.)

2cm ginger, grated

One spring onion, thinly sliced on the diagonal sauce

200ml dashi

(see below for Dashi recipe)

40ml mirin

the preparation

Wrap the tofu in two layers of paper towel. Put a plate on top and leave it to drain for 30 minutes.

To make the sauce, put the dashi, mirin and soy sauce in a saucepan on a medium heat. When the sauce boils, reduce the heat to low. In a small bowl, mix the potato starch with the water to make a smooth paste. Add to the sauce and keep stirring until it thickens, then remove from the heat.

KITCHEN

l WINE RECOMMENDATIONS BY OUR GUEST SOMMELIER

25ml soy sauce

1 tsp potato starch

1 tbsp water

DASHI

40 minutes preparation time

17 minutes cooking time

the ingredients

1 litre water

10g kombu seaweed

SEBASTIAN

CROWTHER

Sebastian is the head sommelier of Rockpool Est. 1989 restaurant in Sydney. He is one of only two Master Sommeliers currently working in Australia. In August 2015 Sebastian was awarded the Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide Sommelier of the Year.

10g katsuobushi (dried bonito flakes)

It is easy to remember the quantities of katsuobushi and kombu: one per cent of the quantity of water.

the preparation

1. Soaking in water

Place the water in a saucepan. Cut the kombu into two pieces and add to the water, then leave to soak for at least 30 minutes in the refrigerator.

Cut the drained tofu into four square pieces. Pat dry with paper towel and then flour the tofu. Heat a two-centimetre depth of oil in a high-sided frying pan on a medium heat. Cook the tofu on both sides until golden brown, about three to four minutes. Transfer to a serving dish, then pour over the hot sauce. Garnish with the radish, ginger and slices of spring onion.

You can do this the night before or a few hours ahead of time.

2. Cooking the dashi

Heat the water on a low heat until it just comes to a simmer, about 15 minutes. Don’t let it boil, or the seaweed flavour will be too strong. Take out the kombu just before the stock comes to the boil and add the katsuobushi all at once. Bring to the boil on a medium heat, then turn off the heat immediately. Let it infuse for 10 minutes.

3. Straining

Strain the dashi into a bowl. Let the dashi drip through, pressing lightly.

l drink

CHIKUMA NISHIKI

Nagano, Japan. RRP A$80.

Junmai (pure rice sake); Ginjo (rice polished to 60 per cent or less), Nama (unpasteurised), Genshu (undiluted)

“As delicate as a snowflake, this sake hails from the mountainous prefecture of Nagano, made famous for the 1998 Winter Olympics. It is like pure mountain air with green apple and nashi pear. The fermentation has been stopped slightly early to capture just a touch of natural sweetness, beautiful contrast to the savoury element of the dish.”

GLOBAL

BUTASHABU SALAD

Sliced

pork salad

serves: four

20 minutes preparation time.

10 minutes cooking time

the ingredients

300g pork, thinly sliced

Half a bunch of shungiku

(edible chrysanthemum

– you can find it at Chinese supermarkets or you can use spinach instead)

2 tsp toasted sesame oil

1 tbsp toasted sesame seeds

3cm leek (white part), cut into very thin matchsticks

Dressing

4 tbsp soy sauce

3 tbsp rice vinegar

2 tbsp raw (demerara) sugar

2 tbsp toasted sesame oil

2cm leek (white part), finely chopped

2cm ginger, finely chopped

Half a garlic clove, finely chopped

1 tsp tobanjan (Chinese fermented bean and chilli paste. You can substitute 1 tsp brown miso and half a tsp of mild chilli flakes.)

the preparation

Bring a saucepan of water to the boil and reduce the heat to

as low as possible (you should barely see any movement on the surface of the water). Add the sliced pork, making sure the slices don’t stick together. When the meat is cooked (pale all over), remove from the heat and drain. Mix together all the dressing ingredients. Pluck the leaves from the shungiku stems, then wash and drain them well. Mix together the shungiku, sesame oil and sesame seeds in a bowl. Arrange on a plate. Place the pork on top and then the leek. Pour over the dressing just before serving.

l drink

“Cobaw Ridge is a small familyowned and operated winery tucked into the sleepy Macedon Ranges, north-west of Melbourne. This is a wine fermented and aged in a portion of new French oak barrels that add richness and texture, suitable for a dish like this. Being from such a coolclimate region, the coldest on mainland Australia, it still retains acidity and freshness that helps to work with the salty/acidic element that the dish carries.”

2013 COBAW RIDGE CHARDONNAY Macedon Ranges, Victoria. RRP A$55.

BUTASHABU SALAD (SLICED PORK SALAD)

Award Winning Authentic Luxury Fiji resort

Fiji’s leading resort

NIKU UDON (UDON WITH SWEET AND SAVOURY BEEF)

NIKU UDON

Udon with sweet and savoury beef serves: four

15 minutes preparation time

15 to 20 minutes cooking time

the ingredients

320g dried udon noodles, or four packets pre-cooked udon

One spring onion, finely chopped

Amani beef (beef simmered in a sweet sauce)

400g beef, ideally a well-marbled cut, sliced

2 tbsp soy sauce

1 tbsp raw (demerara) sugar

2 tbsp mirin

200ml dashi (recipe p195)

Soup

1.2 litres dashi

3 tbsp mirin

3 tbsp soy sauce

1 tsp salt

2 tbsp sake

the preparation

For the beef, cut the beef slices into three-centimetre strips. Place the beef, soy sauce, sugar

l drink

2013 MINISTRY OF CLOUDS GRENACHE McLaren Vale, South Australia. RRP A$40.

Bright red fruits are a hallmark of this wine, but it doesn’t lack the spice and complexity to keep you going back for more. From a 65-year-old, dry-grown vineyard, this is a wine that bucks the trend of producing big, rich and alcoholic wines from this region –it is fresh, drinkable and mediumbodied. There’s enough weight and intensity to ensure it matches up with the intensity of the dish while not being overwhelmed.

and mirin in a saucepan. Sauté, stirring regularly, over a low to medium heat. Add the dashi and let it simmer on a low heat for five minutes.

To make the soup, put all the ingredients in a saucepan and bring to the boil.

Cook the noodles according to the instructions on the packet. Drain the noodles and divide between four bowls. Pour the soup over the noodles. Top with the beef, garnish with the spring onion and serve immediately.

SORBET

Shiso sorbet serves: four

15 minutes preparation time

3 minutes cooking time

3 hours freezing time

the ingredients

140g white sugar

30g grated ginger

300ml water

4 shiso (perilla) leaves

Juice of one organic lemon

1 tbsp egg white

the preparation

Put the sugar, ginger and water in a saucepan. Heat on a medium heat until the sugar has completely dissolved.

Strain to remove any ginger fibres, then cool to room temperature.

Transfer to a blender or food processor, add the shiso leaves, lemon juice and egg white and blend until smooth.

Pour the mixture into an ice-cream maker and follow the directions for your machine. If you don’t have an ice-cream maker, pour the mixture into a metal container and freeze for three hours, scraping the sorbet with a fork

l drink

2010 CRAWFORD RIVER SEMILLON/ SAUVIGNON BLANC

Henty, Victoria. RRP A$45.

“It’s a mould and there’s nothing visually appealing when you see these grapes getting picked, but botrytis (or noble rot) sure does make some tasty wines. Picked when the grapes are shrivelled and concentrated, these wines have high sugar, but good ones carry enough acidity to not make them cloying. A dish that is as refreshing as it is sweet needs a wine that will balance its sugar. Look no further than this beauty from the far-flung Henty wine region in south-western Victoria. Ripe stone fruits and honey with a long palate will have you reaching for another glass!”

every hour to break up the ice crystals.

For a more granita-like texture, make the sorbet manually instead of in an ice-cream maker.

SHISO SORBET

BY HESTON BLUMENTHAL

Australian fans of celebrity chef Heston Blumenthal OBE (pictured) can now dine at his permanent restaurant in Melbourne, Dinner by Heston, following a successful 2015 Melbourne pop-up of his Fat Duck restaurant from the UK. With a capacity for 120 people Dinner by Heston is on the third floor of Crown Towers Hotel, overlooking the Yarra River. An open kitchen allows guests to watch chefs prepare contemporary dishes inspired by British gastronomy, along with traditional pulley-operated spit roasts. Reservations on dinnerbyheston.com.au

l NEW RELEASE

BAROSSA 'ICON'

Australian wine company Calabria Family Wines from the Riverina in New South Wales has released its premium The Iconic Grand Reserve Barossa Valley Shiraz 2012. Fruit for The Iconic was hand-harvested by owner and winemaker Bill Calabria and his family from vines originally planted in 1914. The wine has received a 96-point score from leading Australian wine critic James Halliday. Available from fine wine retailers and online. RRP A$175. calabriafamilywines.com.au

l LIMITED RELEASE

JOHNNIE WALKS ONTO

SINGAPORE AIRLINES

For whisky aficionados and collectors, Johnnie Walker House has released a limited-edition bottle of their top-tier, luxury whisky Johnnie Walker Blue, exclusively for Singapore Airlines. The Casks Edition is contained in a bottle design inspired by the airline's distinctive sarong kebaya uniform. The uniform was designed by French couturier Pierre Balmain in 1968. The lapis lazuli blue bottle features the airline’s signature batik work etched in silver. Just 2,000 bottles of the blended scotch are available exclusively for purchase on board Singapore Airlines (passengers can pre-order through krisshop.com/jw). RRP SG$378 (about A$369) for a 750ml bottle.

l MELBOURNE FINE DINING DINNER

l FINE CRUISE CUISINE FINE FOODIE SAILING TRIPS

Luxury cruise companies are increasingly focussing on the their food onboard, as well as off-shore excursions of interest for the foodinterested cruiser. Two wine-and-food themed voyages are departing in 2016 with luxury liner, Crystal Cruises. On 1 May, Crystal Symphony will sail a 12-day Mediterranean voyage from Istanbul to Rome, joined by Michelinstarred French chef Alexis Gauthier of London's Gauthier Soho House.

Starting 17 July, guests aboard Crystal Serenity will be joined by master chef Nobu Matsuhisa for a 10-day Alaskan cruise round-trip from Vancouver, with personally hosted dinners. All-inclusive Silver Celebration cruise fares start from US$3,725 (about A$5,093) per person, double-occupancy for the Crystal Symphony Mediterranean voyage; US$6,275 (about A$9,195) for the Crystal Serenity Alaskan cruise. crystalcruises.com

HOTEL CHEFS INTERCONTINENTAL GOES FOODIE

InterContinental Hotel Group is stepping up its food offering across the brand, with Dubai, Danang and Bangkok recently opening new restaurants featuring renowned chefs. Briton Jason Atherton, who has a Michelin star from his London establishment, will open his restaurant in Dubai, while renowned chef Theo Randall will be located in Bangkok. Michelin-starred chef Pierre Gagnaire (pictured left) will head the restaurant La Maison 1888 in Danang. ihg.com

l MUNICH FINE DINING NEW NOBU RESTAURANT OPENS

Mandarin Oriental, Munich has recently opened its restaurant Matsuhisa, which is steered by internationally acclaimed chef Nobuyuki Matsuhisa (pictured). The restaurant offers Nobu’s ‘new style Japanese-Peruvian’ cuisine with a menu featuring signature dishes such as black cod and yellowfin tuna sashimi with jalapeños. There is a semiprivate dining space for up to 10 people who can experience omakase, an innovative menu selected by the chef on the day. Matsuhisa also has an eightseat live cooking counter where food will be prepared directly for guests. mandarinoriental.com

TALENTED CHEFS SET UP IN PERTH

Australian Michelin-starred chef David Thompson, an expert in Thai cuisine, has opened Long Chim – an atmospheric restaurant deep in the vaulted cellars of the State Buildings in Perth CBD. The interior has been designed to reflect the streets of Bangkok and includes street art by renowned Thai artists. longchimperth.com

Meanwhile, Pan Pacific Perth has announced the appointment of Paul Gaspa (pictured above) as executive chef of its two hotel restaurants, Montereys and Origins. Gaspa has more than 15 years’ experience in such hotels as the Michelin-starred Conrad Hotel, the seven-star Burj Al Arab, Drones of Pont Street by Marco Pierre White. panpacific.com

l PERTH FINE DINING

l

FAMED PARIS RESTAURANT GROUP OPEN IN UK

Taillevent Paris, the family-owned group behind the two Michelinstarred Le Taillevent, has opened a wine and food-matching brasserie in Cavendish Square, London – with no less than 110 wines by the glass. Les 110 de Taillevent London focusses on pairing wines with seasonal French cuisine. The wine collection is curated by Pierre Bérot, Taillevant Paris wine director. les-110-taillevent-london.com/en

BESPOKE GIN ONBOARD WITH QANTAS

Australian-made Four Pillars Gin, produced at a distillery in Victoria, has created a limitededition gin for Qantas as part of a collaboration with the mixologists of Rockpool. Tagged as the Modern Australian Gin, the gin is comprised of handpicked botanicals to form an Asianinspired, modern gin. It will be poured in the Qantas First lounges in Sydney, Melbourne, Los Angeles, Hong Kong and Singapore. The gin is available to purchase to Qantas epiQure members at qantasepiqure.com.au or at the Four Pillars Distillery in Healesville, Victoria. RRP: A$85. fourpillarsgin.com.au

l LIMITED RELEASE

BOTTLED BELLE

The champagne house that supplied the bubbles of choice at the 2011 wedding of Albert II of Monaco to Princess Charlene, Perrier-Jouët, has now released its Belle Epoque 2007 cuvée. Described by cellar master Hervé Deschamps as “a crystalline vintage”, the 2007 is set to be one of the most sought-after vintages of the Belle Epoque cuvée in the past 20 years, contained in the bottle adorned with white anemones first designed by French art nouveau artist Émile Gallé in 1902. The wine is an assemblage of 50 per cent chardonnay, 45 per cent pinot noir and five per cent pinot meunier. RRP A$299. perrier-jouet.com

l LIMITED RELEASE

FRENCH FLAVOUR

Champagne Taittinger, the 280-year-old Champagne house, has released its prestigious cuvée, the 2006 Champagne Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs. It is made from 100 per cent chardonnay fruit sourced only from Grand Cru vineyards. Available from fine wine retailers and selected on-premise outlets nationally. RRP A$349.99. taittinger.com

l LONDON FINE DINING

EFFERVESCENCE SPARKLING WINE CELEBRATION

Luxury Travel magazine attended the 2015 Effervescence Festival in Launceston, Tasmania – a weekend of events celebrating Tasmanian bubbly and the wineries that produce Australia’s premium and world-class sparkling wines. The event began at Josef Chromy Wines, a 15-minute drive south of Launceston, the winery behind the festival. Each year, a guest chef is invited to curate the Grand Degustation Dinner and other culinary events throughout the weekend; in 2015 it was renowned Sydney hatted chef and Relais & Châteaux member Tetsuya Wakuda. Over the weekend, each year in November, there were tasting sessions and masterclasses led by Tyson Stelzer, Australia’s foremost authority on champagne and sparkling wine. He was joined by some of Tassie’s top winemakers including Louisa Rose

from Jansz, Dr Andrew Pirie AM from Apogee Tasmania (Ninth Island wines) and Australia’s most-awarded sparkling winemaker, Ed Carr from the House of Arras. Other highlights included a Meet the Producers Lunch, and the Saturday night Bubbles and Beats in the beautiful Josef Chromy grounds, with live music, bean bags and, yes, more bubbles. Hobart also hosts events with a Go South lunch on Sunday. A 200km drive south can see you sampling wines from the likes of Stefano Lubiana, Frogmore Creek and Moorilla. The 2016 Effervescence Festival is scheduled for November. For the best accommodation in Launceston, we recommend Hatherley Birrell Collection. Read more at luxurytravelmag.com.au/65 and find out more on the festival line-up for 2016 at effervescencetasmania.com –

KATRINA HOLDEN

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l We are specialists in travel to Italy

l Itineraries are personally designed and researched and our small groups provide an intimate experience

l Take an extended holiday in Italy – tours run consecutively, so you can link one or more experiences together

l We travel when it’s less crowded

l We tailor to clients' special interests wherever possible

l We visit off-the-beaten-track areas, as well as some major tourist destinations

l Our tours are all-inclusive

l We hand-select centrally located hotels

l Slower paced, we spend up to a week in each location

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Opposite page: View over Lake Como. Inset, George Clooney with wife Amal in Venice, after tying the knot.

GEORGE CLOONEY

FROM HAWAII TO HIS SECOND HOME OF LAKE COMO, GEORGE CLOONEY SPEAKS TO Luxury Travel MAGAZINE ABOUT HIS FAVOURITE DESTINATIONS AND THE WAY HE LIKES TO TRAVEL.

What is your best-ever travel memory? What was so great about it? My favourite memory is when I invited my friends to go on a motorcycle trip across the Alps. That was one of the best things I ever did. Some of the guys I still ride with are friends from when we were teenagers, and I try to make it a point to get everybody together at least once a year in Como and then make some sort of journey with our bikes. That’s my eternal teenager side.

What has been one of your best locations in which to shoot a movie – and why? Hawaii [where Clooney shot family drama

The Descendants]. The place is magnificent. The locals are great, everyone was relaxed, and this allowed us to do our job efficiently and at ease.

What’s amazing is how they live above the rules: people go around on motorcycles without a helmet. They crowd up on trucks and go slow when nobody’s on the street. I rented a motorcycle and I loved riding around, even in the rain.

Have you ever wanted to get lost in the crowd and feel like an ordinary local for a day?

[When motorbiking in Italy] I love being able to stop in small towns and enjoy drinks with the locals. The Italians have a very infectious spirit and that makes me feel very relaxed and less caught up in the business of being who I am. That’s a big part of what draws me back to Italy. I just appreciate the way Italians enjoy life. We should all learn the beauty of fourhour meals!

Your wedding in Venice practically turned into a state event. How did you feel about that? The funny thing is, we didn’t tell anyone we were getting married. And all of a sudden, thousands of people were out on the streets in Venice, lining the canals. It was crazy and I thought, “this is what it’s going to be like for the next three days”. And it was wonderful. It added to the celebration.

What do you love about Lake Como? What I love about Italy in general is being able to feel very free there. The Italians have a great joie de vivre and way of looking at the world. Very little bothers them except when their local football team loses. So that kind of spirit is incredibly stimulating. As soon as I set foot in Laglio, I feel truly at home and at peace ...and no-one cares

about the film business. It’s all about food and wine and the beauty of being there. Life doesn’t get better than that! I’ll work, I’ll play and drink plenty of great wine. I’ve worked hard to get to this point – why should I stop now?

What do you wear when flying? The trick is slip-on shoes. I am telling you, that’s the secret. The shoes you have to tie, they take forever… and I never wear those goofy masks on my eyes. I am too worried about the guy in the next seat taking a picture of me. That is one photo that you can’t live down.

MEGAN MORTON

THEY CALL HER THE “HOUSE WHISPERER”AND SHE HAS WORKED HER STYLING AND DESIGN MAGIC EVERYWHERE FROM GETAWAY WEEKENDERS TO CELEBRITY MANSIONS. HER WORK HAS BEEN FEATURED IN INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINES SUCH AS VOGUE LIVING AND VANITY FAIR. HERE Megan Morton TALKS TRAVEL.

How do you draw inspiration from your travels and how is it reflected in your work? There is never a wasted journey. I search for travel experiences near and far to ensure I don’t miss a thing. This year [2015] has been great for travel, but the most rewarding has been within Australia, Tasmania in particular, as well as rediscovering Adelaide.

What is the most luxurious project you’ve worked on? In terms of monetary value, the multimillion-dollar homes we work on. But the most satisfying jobs are the budgetconscious ones where you have to work hard to make the magic. It is oh-so rewarding!

How often do you travel for work and what are some of the destinations? Every four weeks I find myself away. I have Paris and Japan on my wish list – as well as any small islands or easy-to-get-to-butundiscovered local getaways! Travel for me is never just about the destination, it’s about the preparation, anticipation and discovery of the voyage in general – and that you always return a better, more informed person.

Where do you like to shop when travelling? My go-to is always the local chemist for something lovely and regional, particularly in France or Italy. You will never know about

the local soaps, fragrances, toothpastes or talcs until you shop where locals get their provisions. In New York, go to Economy Candy for great candy. I like BHS Hardware in Paris for electrical goods.

What are specialist regions you’ve visited for specific products for your work? For example, Cambodia is wellknown for its silverware. India for anything and everything fabric. I have been twice and hope that these are the first trips of many, many more. The textile culture is so deeply ingrained – it is a way of life, so as a visitor you can soak up the knowledge, skills and products from this

amazing place, whatever region you travel to.

Are there any luxury hotels you are drawn to that have an interesting design aesthetic? I adore anything with distinct point of view. Jobner Bagh in Jaipur, India is a favourite as it’s like a lovely house – so lovely I got remarried there on my last trip! It’s nothing overt or super-fancy, just discreet decadence.

Do you fly business class?

I vary between business and economy class. As a six-foot person who likes to drink a lot of water, I hope this changes soon to almost exclusively business class or upwards!

CREATIVE TRAVELLER

JOBNER BAGH / JAIPUR INDIA

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