Luxury Travel Magazine - Issue 68

LUXE FOR LESS

THE 12 BEST VALUE DESTINATIONS RIGHT NOW

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GET THERE WHICH LUXURY RAIL JOURNEY IS FOR YOU?

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CRUISE SPECIAL PART I UNPACKING LUXURY RIVER CRUISING

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ANNUAL TRAVEL PLANNER WHEN & WHERE TO PLAY GOLF AROUND THE WORLD

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DESTINATION MALDIVES THE BEST LUXURY DEALS FROM THIS ISLAND PARADISE

Destination_Greek Islands DESTINATION COLOMBIA /

Destination_Colombia

DESTINATION

LONDON / 063

DESTINATION

VIENNA / 040

DESTINATION

Walk_Japan

GET THERE

CRUISE_ SPAIN / 076

GREEK ISLANDS / 054

DESTINATION

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DO THIS

SAFARI_TANZANIA / 098

Safari_Tanzania

DO THIS WALK_JAPAN / 120

STAY HERE_THAILAND HEALTH & WELLNESS_ AMATARA RESORT & WELLNESS / 146 SRI PANWA / 160

STAY HERE SAMAN VILLAS / 164

STAY HERE_BALI BELMOND JIMBARAN PURI / 155

STAY HERE_FIJI LAUCALA ISLAND / 132 THE REMOTE RESORT /136

STAY HERE_ NEW ZEALAND TREETOPS LODGE / 158 THE LODGE AT THE KINLOCH CLUB /168

STAY HERE_FAMILY SAILS IN THE DESERT / 141

DO THIS CYCLE_QLD / 116

STAY HERE HEALTH & WELLNESS_ BILLABONG RETREAT / 152 SPICERS SANGOMA / 156

109 MAIN EVENT

Your VIP access to the FIS Alpine World Ski Championships; Super Bowl LI 2017; the 2017 Australian Open and Art Basel Miami Beach.

173 SUITE LIFE

Collector's Suites at Pulitzer Amsterdam and hotel suite reviews of Ovolo Woolloomooloo, Crown Towers Melbourne, the InterContinental Singapore and SO Sofitel Bangkok.

182 STAY HERE

All about MGallery.

187 DESIGN HOTEL

Casa Malca, Mexico.

188 CHEF'S GUIDE

Where to eat in Modena, Italy, according to Osteria Francescana sous chef Kondo Takahiko.

190 CULINARY TRAVELS

Epicurean offerings at Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay.

194 GLOBAL KITCHEN

Recipes from Istanbul.

200 EPICUREAN NEWS

The latest from the world of fine food and drinks.

202 CREATIVE TRAVELLER

Fashion illustrator Megan Hess.

210 CELEBRITY TRAVELLER Sam Neill.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Susan Borham sborham@magnesiummedia.com.au

EXECUTIVE EDITOR Gary Allen gary.allen@magnesiummedia.com.au

EDITOR

Madeleine Stratton

ASSISTANT EDITOR

Belinda Craigie

SUB EDITOR

Kate Symons

STAFF WRITER

Katie Milton

EDITORIAL INTERNS

Siobhan Plowman & Alyssa Govindan

ART DIRECTOR

Louise Summerton

ADVISORY BOARD CHAIRMAN

John O’Neill

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Shakira Wood swood@luxurytravelmag.com.au

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Madeleine Stratton

COVER ILLUSTRATION Ben Sanders / jackywinter.com

We asked our contributors what's the one thing they want our readers to know about their stories in this issue.

SARAH GILBERT

"Lunch under a canopy of trees in the middle of the Ngorongoro Crater, surrounded by the sights and sounds of the bush, was unforgettable."

Sarah reports on a safari experience and two luxury camps in Tanzania's Ngorongoro Conservation Area (page 98).

RICHARD M cC OLL

"When, on that first occasion you wander the antiquated streets of colonial Cartagena and your eyes fall upon the glory of the bay, the San Felipe castle and the city walls, it's then that you realise the might of this city, the incredible efforts the Spanish put in to protect her and why today Colombians cherish her as the jewel in their Caribbean crown."

This issue you can read about, and book, Richard's tour of Colombia (page 46).

CHRIS FRAME

"Head to The Wing First Lounge if you're a Oneworld Emerald for some of the nicest airport shower facilities around."

Chris reviews The Wing, Cathay Pacific's first class lounge at Hong Kong International Airport, in our High Flyer pages this issue (page 94).

Kaitlin Allen

Chris Frame

Kelly Jane Gabriel

Sarah Gilbert

Anna Hart

Katrina Holden

Adam Jacot de Boinod

Roslyn Jolly

Catherine Marshall

Richard McColl

David McGonigal

Henry Peters

Angela Saurine

Matt Shea

Beatrice Spence

Craig Tansley

Robert Upe

Camilla Wagstaff

Chris Wright

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

When destinations see significant airfare price drops to and from Australia, along with a weak currency against the Australian dollar, it’s a good value time to visit. Our cover story this issue names 12 destinations that are the best value right now for Australian travellers. We know that as luxury travellers your first questions on any destination will include one on the best place to stay so we’ve included what we think is the best address in each destination along with some great deals at other luxury properties.

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In our Annual Travel Planner this issue we help you plan the optimum golf holiday. Expert golf writer Henry Peters names the best golf destinations around the world across a year letting us know when the weather is perfect to tee off. We do a per night price comparison on the world’s most opulent rail journeys taking a close look at what’s included in the fare and examine the high end of river cruising to determine what each of the best cruise lines offers its passengers. For luxury travellers looking for a genuine deal, our Luxe-ForLess destination this issue is the Maldives. We present the best

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accommodation discounts we could find from among that island paradise’s most luxurious resorts.

Soon we’ll be opening the voting on our annual Gold List awards. We’ll announce the opening of voting across our social media channels so if you’re not already receiving our updates on Twitter, Instagram, Pinterest or Facebook, follow us now to be among the first to vote and then to learn the results when we announce the winners early next year.

SUSAN BORHAM EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

for the best luxury deals on offer, follow @LuxeforLessAU on Twitter

DISPATCHES

THE LATEST LUXURY HOTEL AND RESORT OPENINGS, REFURBISHMENTS AND TRAVEL NEWS.

A NEW CROWN SET TO REIGN IN PERTH

Crown Towers Perth, a luxury hotel designed by Melbournebased architects Bates Smart, is set to open in December. The Crystal Club, located on the 15th floor, will overlook the Swan River and Perth skyline, and feature a dining area, cocktail bar and terrace. The hotel will have 500 rooms, suites and villas as well as a 24-hour casino. Proposing to offer six-star service, the hotel will also feature a Crown Spa compete with an aroma steam room, Roman hot tub, sauna and private relaxation areas. crownperth.com.au/ hotels/crown-towers/crown-towers-perth

Fairmont’s The Savoy has unveiled a new Royal Suite; the top-tier of accommodation available at the historic London hotel. Designed by award-winning designer PierreYves Rochon and ReardonSmith Architects, the new suite spans the hotel’s entire fifth floor and offers a more residential style of accommodation, with a living room with private bar, and floor-to-ceiling windows that reveal river views. There is also a morning room for

intimate dining and a bedroom with a stately four-poster bed and ensuite. Royal Suite guests will have 24-hour access to a dedicated entourage of staff including a butler, concierge, chef, bartender, therapist, personal shopper and a hairdresser and makeup artist, and guests will not only arrive in style but be transported around London throughout their stay in a chauffeurdriven Rolls Royce. fairmont.com/savoy-london/

ALYSSA GOVINDAN

FRESH BEACH LUXURY IN VIETNAM

The Anam Colonial Beach Resort recently opened in Nha Trang, Vietnam. Looking onto the Cam Ranh Bay, the resort has adopted the policy “No shoes. No news. No stress” to ensure guests experience relaxation and solitude. The resort includes 105 villas that open to a private beach, the Sri Mara Spa, which offers Balinese massage treatments, and a fully equipped fitness centre set among pools and tropical gardens. theanam.com

TAKE IT SLOW AT KOKOMO FIJI

There’s a new private island experience coming to Fiji care of Kokomo Island Fiji. Located in the Kadavu island group on the Great Astrolabe Reef, Kokomo Island Fiji is owned by developer Lang Walker. When it opens in March 2017, guests will be able to choose from one of 21 Beachside Villas or one of five luxurious three- to six-bedroom hilltop residences with views of the island’s lagoon. All accommodations have their own private pools and the residences come with an in-house chef, butler and nanny. Water-based activities and excursions will be available – the resort is a PADI 5 Star Dive Resort. There will also be a kids’ club for the little ones. The dining offering will feature dishes made with sustainably sourced produce. kokomoislandfiji.com

QT Melbourne is the recently opened offering from QT Hotels and Resorts. The brand lets its quirk live on with video art displayed on the television screens in each room and elevators that greet guests with broadcasted phrases. The hotel mixes French and local style through rolling footage of fashion shows in the lobby and staff dressed in eccentric yet iconic outfits. The hotel has 188 rooms and is located on Russell Street in the CBD. qthotelsandresorts.com/ melbourne/ AG

MELBOURNE COMES TO TOWN

WHAT TO

DISPATCHES

NEED FOR SPEED ASTON MARTIN REVEALS FIRST POWERBOAT

Aston Martin’s new powerboat was unveiled at the recent Monaco Yacht Show. The 37-foot Aston Martin AM37 powerboat combines innovative technology and bespoke craftsmanship, with a wraparound windscreen sculpted from a single piece of glass, a swim platform for easy access to the water and sliding decking to allow the cockpit to be covered at the touch of a button. The cabin features leather seating for up to eight people, a bathroom, air conditioning, a refrigerator and coffee machine. With an estimated top speed of 45 knots, the new vessel marks the luxury car manufacturer’s first foray into the maritime world. astonmartin.com

The Four Seasons Hotel Sydney is due to reveal its transformed level 32 Executive Club in December. Australian designer Miriam Fanning has reinvented the space in a colour palate of inky blues, soft greys and brushed brass. The new-look Executive Club will include an extended private entrance, new furnishings like plush velvet armchairs, contemporary Australian art and bay window seating overlooking the harbour. Food and beverage offerings will include a menu featuring locally sourced seasonal produce and an open bar with premium spirits and Australian wines. fourseasons.com/sydney AG

for the day, the Molli attaché is an ideal accessory to take along. With a side pocket for storing valuables, the main pocket is designed for clothes and larger items. Made with quality finishes from neoprene with high-grade zippers for water and sand protection, the Molli doubles as a comfortable beach pillow. Available in pink, red, turquoise, yellow and navy, the Molli retails for A$149. mollivoyage.com.au

NEW-LOOK EXECUTIVE CLUB COMING TO FOUR SEASONS SYDNEY

DISPATCHES

SWEET SCENTS COCOLUX’S FESTIVE NEW COLLECTION

In time for summer and the festive season, Cocolux Australia has released a limited edition range of scented home candles inspired by the holidays. Think Cedar & Pine for conjuring up winter wonderland scenes, Fig, Orange & Clove for thoughts of family, food and tradition, and Frankincense & Myrrh, a complex and dramatic scent with spice and citrus accents. Cased in pure brass vessels, the candles are available in 150g (RRP A$50) and 350g (RRP A$70) sizes. cocoluxaustralia.com

HEALTH & WELLNESS

LONDON’S NEW FITNESS, WELLNESS AND RELAXATION DESTINATION

London luxury hotel The Lanesborough will launch its 18,000 square foot The Lanesborough Club & Spa in March next year. Designers 1508 London are behind the new club’s design, which has been inspired by Roman baths, while the interiors will incorporate British materials including silk wallpapers, wood panelling, marble and stone. A colour palette of blues, greens and bronze will complement the look. The new club will offer members and hotel guests access to internationally recognised experts in the fields of fitness, beauty and wellness. The Lanesborough Club & Spa will be accessible via the hotel or a private members-only entrance, and will comprise various spaces including changing rooms, thermal suites, a restaurant, a manicure and pedicure suite, and a Hydropool. lanesborough.com/eng/health-wellbeing AG

manufacturer Baume & Mercier’s Petite Promesse collection. With its diamond-set steel case, mother of pearl dial and diamonds at 12 and six, the 22mm-diameter Petite Promesse comes with a delicate wraparound strap in polished steel or bright blue or orange leather to complement a variety of outfits.

baume-et-mercier.com

REFURBISHMENTS

INTERCONTINENTAL BORA BORA REFRESHED

NEW ADDITION

RELAX WHILE YOU WAIT

InterContinental Bali has recently opened Sayana Lounge, a 24-hour space that acts as a halfway point for guests. Fitted out with lockers, showers, changing facilities, a homely lounge and an outdoor terrace, guests can make themselves at home while waiting to check into their room or depart the resort. bali.intercontinental.com

In September, renovations commenced at Tahiti’s InterContinental Bora Bora Resort & Thalasso Spa. The renovation, which will see the addition of four new two-bedroom overwater villas, each with a private pool, is expected to take 10 months. It will include a refresh of all villas, plus the addition of swimming pools to 10 existing overwater villas. thalasso.intercontinental.com

DISPATCHES

LUXE FOR LESS HAPPY BIRTHDAY AYANA BALI

AYANA Resort and Spa Bali is celebrating its 20th anniversary on 25 November and has released a special package to coincide with the milestone. The ‘20 Ways to Celebrate’ package starts from A$1314 per couple and includes 20 free gifts such as daily breakfast, a special anniversary dinner, a 20-minute Balinese massage, and sunrise yoga. The deal is available for minimum three-night stay and for travel through to 23 December. ayana.com

SNOW BUSINESS FRESH DEVELOPMENTS IN NISEKO VILLAGE, JAPAN

December will see the launch of two new ski lifts at YTL’s Niseko Village, in time for the Japanese ski season. The Village Express is an 816-metre-long lift comprising six-person chairs and eight-person gondolas, while Upper Village Gondola is a 250-metre pulsed gondola that will give guests staying in luxury townhouses at Kasara Niseko Village access to a beginners area, as well as access to the top of the Village Express lift. In addition, there will be a brand new 1.2-kilometre ski run. niseko-village.com

COOKBOOK HAVE A TASTE OF GWINGANNA AT HOME

Queensland lifestyle-retreat

Gwinganna has released a cookbook, a taste of gwinganna

Experience both the ocean and sky with newly launched heli-surfing tours at Four Seasons Resorts Bali. Operated by Tropicsurf, a helicopter will collect guests from Four Seasons Jimbaran Bay for a surfing day trip to Grajagan (also known as G-Land) on Java island. With the flight only 45-minutes long, the tours enable guests to beat the crowds to access the waves at G-Land. The

surf at G-Land requires skill, although there are suitable waves nearby for less confident surfers and sheltered spots for beginners. Tours start from US$10,000 (about A$13,120) and include private helicopter charter, transport of surfboards, heliport transport, private speedboat charter at G-Land, surf guide, personal coaching and water safety and insurance. tropicsurf.net

With a foreword by Maggie Beer, the cookbook features 70 glutenand dairy-free recipes based on the retreat’s newest menus, as well as some classic Gwinganna recipes and a section from the retreat’s organic gardener Shelley Pryor. A portion of proceeds from the book will be donated to Wildcare Australia Inc, an organisation that helps rescue and rehabilitate sick, injured and orphaned native wildlife. a taste of gwinganna is available online for A$54.95 plus postage and handling. gwinganna.com

AUSTRALIA’S LARGEST OWNER OPERATOR OF LUXURY HOTELS

Stay for a night or stay for a while, and be promised a luxury experience to remember forever when you choose Meriton Serviced Apartments.

Our suites, appointed with superior furnishings, are much larger than the typical hotel room and are equipped with all the comforts of a home away from home. Gourmet kitchen, full-sized bathrooms, large living areas, free wifi and an internal laundry – it’s all at your fingertips. There also are state of the art facilities like pool, gym, spa and sauna when you stay at any Meriton Serviced Apartments hotel. Luxury, service and value go hand in hand at Australia’s largest owned and operated apartment-hotel group.

To discover our uncompromised quality and exceptional value for money, call our Australian-based guest hotline on 131 672 or visit staymsa.com

SIX SENSES ZIL PASYON

Luxury resort brand Six Senses has opened a new 30-villa property on the private island of Félicité in Seychelles. Built into the island’s dramatic rocky outcrop and sheltered by lush vegetation, all accommodation options feature a private pool and ocean facing views.

ANANTARA AL JABAL AL AKHDAR

Set in the Green Mountain of Oman, this newly opened Anantara resort has 115 guest rooms and villas that sit 2000 metres above sea level. An adventure traveller’s paradise, the remote resort offers mountain biking, abseiling and even a via ferrata – a rock-climbing route fixed with ladders and cables.

AL BALEED RESORT SALALAH BY ANANTARA

Opening in November, this 136room resort is located on Oman’s Salalah coastline surrounded by towering palms and tropical gardens. Guests will have access to temperature-controlled infinity pools, three restaurants, a Mediterranean beach bar and a spa with a hammam and rasul treatment rooms.

YTL IN THE UK

YTL Hotels has added three new United Kingdom properties to its luxury portfolio. Among the acquisitions is The Glasshouse, an historic boutique property in Edinburgh that features a two-acre rooftop garden. Slated for refurbishment is The Academy Hotel in London, comprised of five restored Georgian townhouses in the West End. While Monkey Island Hotel in Berkshire, near the renowned culinary hotspot of Bray, will be redesigned by New Yorkbased firm Champalimaud Design.

SPICERS POTTS POINT

Australia’s Spicers Retreats will open its first Sydney property in 2017. Spread across three heritage-listed terrace houses on Victoria Street in Potts Point, the 20-room hotel will ooze modern comfort and simple, understated luxury.

MIAVANA MADAGASCAR

Scheduled to open in December, this ultra-luxury lodge will occupy the private island of Nosy Ankao off the northeast coast of Madagascar. Comprising 14 villas, the resort also features wine cellar dining areas and a “chamber of curiosities” filled with island treasures, and offers a variety of guided water activities.

RAFFLES SINGAPORE RESTORATION

The iconic Raffles Singapore will undergo a three-phase restoration beginning in 2017. The hotel will remain open for the first two phases, which will involve the restoration of the main building, the lobby, select hotel suites and the expansive Hotel Arcade. The arcade houses specialty shops, The Ballroom and The Lawn and a collection of restaurants and bars. Phase three will see Raffles Singapore close its doors to the public with a grand reopening in the second quarter of 2018.

RITZ-CARLTON PERTH

Come 2018, visitors to the waterfront Elizabeth Quay in Perth will be able to spend the night at the luxury Ritz-Carlton Hotel. The 204-suite hotel will house a range of leisure facilities including a spa, rooftop bar and lounge, a grand ballroom and whirlpool.

ANANTARA AL JABAL AL AKHDAR

AL BALEED RESORT SALALAH BY ANANTARA

SIX SENSES ZIL PASYON

TRAVEL RICHES

When it comes to planning a luxury getaway or adventure, the allure of discounted airfares, a weak currency against our own dollar and value-packed accommodation packages can be irresistible, even to the most discerning and well-heeled traveller. Luxe-for-less travel is not about counting dollars saved, but rather maximising experiences and luxury with dollars well spent.

Looking at flight prices and exchange rates*, we’ve identified 12 luxe-forless destinations across the globe for you to consider when planning your next holiday, as well as where you should stay when you get there, and some great luxury deals you can take advantage of now.

Here is a country offering not just great wines, pulsating tango and mountaineering high up in the Andes, but also a range of lodges, fincas, haciendas and luxury hotels to accommodate luxury travellers. Now is a great time to visit Argentina. Compared to last year, the Australian dollar has appreciated 59 per cent against the Argentine peso, and flights have become better value, down six per cent to an average of A$1662.

Visit Buenos Aires, a heady mix of European immigrants and indigenous peoples. It is a city both glamorous and sophisticated, yet impoverished and honest. Stay between the fashionable Retiro and Recoleta districts at Palacio Duhau - Park Hyatt Buenos Aires, set in a neoclassical palace and just a stroll to The Latin American Art Museum.

Argentina is a great country from which to experience the Andes. Stay at Cavas Wine Lodge, a luxury lodge at the foot of the mountains in Mendoza, home of the best Argentinian wine and perfect for fabulous excursions. The Incan culture is still manifest in these mountains, if not alive.

A must-see is Iguazu, where the famous falls spill more widely than anywhere on earth. Stay at the nearby Don Puerto Bemberg Lodge. In reach of the Jesuit missionary ruins, it’s a boutique lodge with dark colonial courtyards boasting its own rain forest.

ADAM JACOT DE BOINOD

STAY HERE, LUXE FOR LESS

Stay at Entre Cielos, a luxury hotel and spa near Mendoza, set in a vineyard overlooking the Andes Mountains. Bookings made between 10 November and 19 December 2016 will receive up to 30 per cent off the rack rate. Guests who book a suite for a two-night stay can choose either a complimentary Classic Circuit spa treatment with a foam massage or a complimentary bottle of bubbles in room. Rates start at US$470 (about A$619) per night. entrecielos.com

Or stay at Los Cauquenes, a resort and spa on the Beagle Channel beach only seven kilometres from Ushuaia in Argentina’s south. The hotel is currently offering a package for three-night stays during summer that include a welcome dinner, either a sailing or glacial experience, and a massage per person. For bookings for November, December and March 2017, rates start from US$530 (about A$696) per person, and in January and February, US$680 (about A$893) per person. loscauquenes.com

BRAZIL

-9 %

One of the world’s most alluring destinations, Brazil offers powdery white-sand beaches, verdant waterfall-dotted rainforests, colonial towns and pulsating metropolises. There’s the beguiling beach idyll of Trancoso in Bahia, home to Uxua’s cluster of sumptuously reimagined casas, a celebrity honeymoon favourite and simply one of the most stylish properties on the planet.

In the rhythmic, culture-dense cities of Rio and Sao Paulo, slick city hotels provide a buzzy meeting place for locals as well as a refuge for travellers. Step into the architectural triumph that is Hotel Unique in Sao Paulo, or the Philippe Starck-designed and family-run Hotel Fasano in Rio, where life revolves around an infinity pool. With unforgettable festivals, a serious sport pedigree, world-class cuisine, and a string of bucket-list experiences for adventure lovers, Brazil has it all.

And even though flight prices from Australia to Brazil plummeted by nine per cent during the first half of 2016, the Australian dollar has depreciated by only one per cent, so now is the time to pounce on this great-value luxury destination.

ANNA HART

STAY HERE, LUXE FOR LESS

Stay at Belmond Hotel das Cataratas, right next to the stunning Iguazu Falls on the Argentina-Brazil border, where you can book for a stay before 31 December 2016 and receive a complimentary accommodation upgrade (with daily breakfast included). Or if you’re travelling with children, you can book a family getaway package for a 30 per cent discount on a second room which includes a guided walking tour of the Iguazu Falls before the park opens to other visitors (and also includes daily breakfast). belmond.com/hoteldas-cataratas-iguassu-falls

The Grand Hyatt Rio de Janiero also has a family package, where you can save 50 per cent on the cost of a second connecting apartment for children up to 12 years old. riodejaneiro.grand.hyatt.com

From top: Santisimo Sacramento, Buenos Aires; Hotel Fasano, Rio de Janeiro.

Opposite page from top: Mount Fitz Roy and laguna Torre, Los Glaciares National Park, Argentina; Ipanema Beach in Rio de Janeiro.

ANIBAL TREJO/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

“One of the world’s most alluring destinations, Brazil offers powdery white-sand beaches, verdant waterfall-dotted rainforests, colonial towns and pulsating metropolises”

STAY HERE, LUXE FOR LESS

Chilean all-inclusive luxury lodge operator Tierra Hotels offers a Spirit of Chile package: book a seven-night stay combining two Tierra Hotels (either their Atacama, Chiloé or Patagonia locations) for a 15 per cent discount plus your choice of a complimentary night at the Grand Hyatt Santiago or a US$100 (about A$130) voucher for one of their UMA spas. tierrahotels.com

CHINA

CHILE -2 %

From heli-skiing tours in search of the best powder snow to dining on South American cuisine in five-star restaurants in Santiago, wine tasting in the Casablanca Valley and staying in wilderness lodges, Chile has to be one of the most diverse places on the planet for luxury. The Australian dollar has remained stable against the Chilean Peso over the past year, while the price of flights has fallen slightly by two per cent, averaging around A$1718.

Known for its salt flats, blue lagoons and bubbling geysers, a visit to the Atacama Desert is a must. At Hotel Alto Atacama Desert Lodge and Spa, which was designed to blend in with its sur-

roundings by some of Chile’s best architects, you can soak in water melted from glacial snow in an outdoor hot tub and marvel at the terracotta-coloured ridges that surround you, take part in astrological tours and visit ancient rock art sites and Andean villages.

Just outside Torres del Paine National Park, Patagonia Camp offers glamping-style accommodation on the shores of Lake Toro. Its 18 cosy yurts have views over the water towards snow-capped mountains, where you can lie in bed and listen to the rain and wind against your tent. The camp offers daily excursions including kayaking, horse riding and hiking in the French Valley and to Grey Glacier, where you can look out for wildlife including condors, guanacos (small hump-less camels), ostrich-like rheas, pink flamingoes, foxes and puma.

ANGELA SAURINE

It’s no surprise that a country as vast and populous as China offers a range of opportunities for luxury travel. Beijing has the iconic history, the Forbidden City, and is the easiest place from which to see the Great Wall; Shanghai has the glamour of the Bund and some of the world’s most daring skyscraper architecture; Xian boasts the Terracotta Warriors. And if you want to realise a dream of cuddling a baby panda, you can do it in a sanctuary in Chengdu.

There are top-class cruise operators such as the Sanctuary Yangzi Explorer drifting down the Yangzi river through the stunning Three Gorges, and even off the beaten track – in Tibet, in the mountains of Yunnan Province or travelling by camelback in the Gobi desert –there are highly-rated tour and accommodation options.

Groups like Abercrombie & Kent, Wild China and Remote Lands offer set or bespoke top-end tours of China’s attractions. The best interna-

Clockwise from left: Marble Caves of Lake General Carrera, Chile; Alto Atacama Resort & Spa, Chile; Salar Aguas Calientes, San Pedro de Atacama, Chile.

TURISMO CHILE

ALBERTO LOYO/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

tional hotels abound in China: even industrial Shenyang has a world-class Grand Hyatt.

Better still, your Aussie dollar goes further here than ever following a careful devaluation of the Chinese currency by the state. The Australian dollar is up four per cent year on year against the yuan with the average price of flights down 10 per cent to sit around A$767.

CHRIS WRIGHT

STAY HERE, LUXE FOR LESS

Book a three-night stay at the Mandarin Oriental, Guangzhou in China’s south for travel from 2 January to 29 March 2017 and your third night is free. mandarinoriental.com/Guangzhou

To the west at UNESCO World Heritage Site Lijiang, the Banyan Tree Lijiang also offers a stay-three, pay-two deal for bookings in a Jet Pool Villa (or higher category room) from now until 29 December 2016. banyantree.com/en/cn-china-lijiang

FIJI

-15 %

Amongst these remote islands and their sunny beaches and palm trees, where the accommodation typically consists of bures (thatched beachfront cabins), there is no shortage of luxury resorts. The Australian dollar is strong against the Fijian dollar, and in the last year, the average cost of flights from Australia has decreased 15 per cent to A$378 making now a great time to book.

If you’re searching for luxury, try the Mamanuca Islands. Likuliku Lagoon Resort is a stunning adults-only beachfront resort with overwater bures and is great for snorkelling and island excursions. Also on the Mamanucas is Vomo Island Fiji, an all-inclusive private

island resort offering a choice of 28 villas and four residences, and extraordinary food.

The Remote Resort is an intimate resort right near the Rainbow Reef that caters for a maximum of 14 guests. From there you can get a boat across to fertile Taveuni and stay at Taveuni Palms. The luxury resort is perfect for a romantic hideaway but also for outdoor types with excursions to waterfalls and boat trips. For something really special try Laucala Island. It’s in the top class of private island resorts with a high staff to guest ratio, and where the food is home grown and the villas luxurious.

Coming soon is Kokomo Island, slated to offer six-star all-inclusive luxury via 21 beachfront villas and five hilltop residences, all in a private island setting.

“It’s no surprise that a country as vast and populous as China offers a range of opportunities for luxury travel”

SONGQUAN DENG/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

STAY HERE, LUXE FOR LESS

Likuliku Lagoon Resort offers an Indulgence Package, where guests who stay for seven nights or more from now until 31 March 2018 will get complimentary return island transfers by helicopter, seaplane or private water taxi plus a bottle of Veuve Clicquot. The package is priced from FJ$8204 (about A$5225) per person. likulikulagoon.com

Book to travel from now until 23 December 2016 for a stay-seven, pay-five deal at Vomo Island Fiji. The OOH Package for accommodation in a Hillside Villa for two includes a bottle of wine or sparkling on arrival, two sarongs, all meals and non-alcoholic beverages, a snorkel safari each day, gym access, WiFi, daily laundry service, non-motorised water sports, two massages at the resort’s Kui Spa and nine-hole pitch and putt golf, for FJ$1696 (about A$1080) per person. vomofiji.com

MAURITIUS

-8 %

Mauritius is justly famous among travellers for its piercing blue waters and powder-white beaches, while a rugged, rain-forested interior makes the island a mecca for adventure seekers and nature lovers. But it’s the reasonably priced luxury resorts that elevate this island destination beyond that of her pricier neighbours, providing a front-row seat onto some of the most spectacular vistas of the Indian Ocean.

Experience butler service in Colonial-style

surroundings at the St. Regis or opt for modern luxury at the achingly hip Lux* Le Morne, and spend your days doing yoga, stand-up paddle boarding, hiking Le Morne, visiting rum distilleries, learning to kitesurf or simply delving into one of the most creative national cuisines on the planet.

And this is the year to plan your visit to Mauritius. The island nation’s year-round sunshine makes it an all-seasons destination, so you can jump on a good deal without risking lessthan-perfect weather. Flights from Australia to Mauritius have decreased eight per cent over the past year and now hover around A$966.

AH

STAY HERE, LUXE FOR LESS

Golf lovers can stay at the Four Seasons Resort Mauritius at Anahita for four to six nights and receive a 25 per cent discount on standard rates

with daily breakfast and complimentary daily golf on the Ernie Els-designed golf course (including green fees and use of the driving range). fourseasons.com/mauritius

At The Oberoi, Mauritius, guests who book an Exotic Escape package for a minimum five-night stay will receive, in addition to luxury accommodation, daily breakfast and three-course dinner for two people, return airport transfers and complimentary WiFi. Those in the Presidential Villa or Royal Villa with private pool will also receive a complimentary one-hour couple’s massage. Rates start from €585 (about A$833) per night. oberoihotels.com/hotels-in-mauritius/

MEXICO -2 % +14%

Luxury suites and villas now look out over both the Atlantic and the Pacific oceans in Mexico, and it’s a wonderful destination to visit for a great value luxury holiday. Year-on-year, the Australian dollar has grown against the Mexican peso by 14 per cent, and flights have decreased by two per cent to around A$1597.

On the Atlantic side, visit Tulum, where the classiest hotels are Be Tulum, an isolated retreat where the suites all have private pools, and The Beach, where guests can relax on the private beach in queen-sized beds. For eating, Ziggy’s and Casa Violeta are special. Going back up the coast

“Also on the Mamanucas is Vomo Island Fiji, an all-inclusive private island resort offering a choice of 28 villas and four residences”

Clockwise from left: The deck at VOMO, Fiji; Lux Le Morne, Mauritius; The bedroom in the Overwater Villa at Laucala, Fiji.

Fiji’s unique multi award-winning luxury resort for couples.

Fiji’s unique multi award-winning luxury resort for couples.

Stay 7 nights and receive free helicopter, seaplane or private speedboat transfers * .

Or between November and March, stay 5 nights and receive a sixth night FREE. Prices from AUD $745pp * per night including all meals.

Stay 7 nights and receive free helicopter, seaplane or private speedboat transfers * . Or between November and March, stay 5 nights and receive a sixth night FREE. Prices from AUD $745pp * per night including all meals.

* Conditions apply. Approx rates only – check daily FOREX rates.

* Conditions apply. Approx rates only – check daily FOREX rates.

For reservations and information visit www.likulikulagoon.com

For reservations and information visit www.likulikulagoon.com

or Telephone +(679) 672 0978

or Telephone +(679) 672 0978

Email: reservations@ahuraresorts.com

Email: reservations@ahuraresorts.com

The Warm Heart Of Fiji.

The Warm Heart Of Fiji.

takes you to Playa del Carmen where the glorious Viceroy Riviera Maya hotel has a great position overlooking Cozumel Island and a full-service spa offering treatments inspired by Mayan traditions.

On the Pacific side, on the peninsula of Baja California, there are some wonderful resorts. Try Cabo San Lucas, a resort city known for its beaches, water-based activities and nightlife. Stay at Las Ventanas al Paraiso, a Rosewood Resort with oceanfront suites and villas. Alternatively there’s Esperanza, a beachfront resort with a luxury spa, a championship golf course and private three-bedroom residences for larger groups.

AJ

STAY HERE, LUXE FOR LESS

If you are heading to Cabo San Lucas between now and 17 December, Las Ventanas al Paraiso is offering an extra night free of charge for those who pay for three or four nights (stay five nights and you’ll receive a sixth and seventh night free of charge). rosewoodhotels.com/en/las-ventanas-los-cabos

Another for the golfers, Moon Palace Golf & Spa Resort, an all-inclusive luxury resort in Cancún on Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula, offers those booking between now and 23 December 2016 unlimited golfing on the resort’s Jack Nicklaus-designed signature golf course. The package also includes transportation to and from the resort, golf balls for practice, and food and beverages on the course and in the clubhouse. moonpalacecancun.com PERU -18 %

Peru is emerging as one of South America’s best luxury travel destinations and getting there has never been cheaper. Peru has experienced an 18 per cent drop in flight prices from Australia, which average A$1607. But while Peru offers good value for money with the strength of the Australian dollar steady against the Peruvian sol, it’s not at the expense of luxury.

Peru is South America’s – and one of the world’s – culinary capitals. Its capital Lima is now home to two of the world’s Top 20 restaurants, with one – Central in Miraflores – in the world’s Top Five. And gourmet food comes cheaper here; many world-class restaurants offer degustation menus for less than A$40.

Peru offers a diverse tourist experience: Delfin Cruises offers the most luxurious riverboat on the whole Amazon River in Peru’s north-east corner, with room for just eight passengers, and an on-board restaurant ranked in Peru’s Top 10. But Peru is most famous for its mountains – and one of the world’s Seven Wonders, Machu Picchu. You can now explore Machu Picchu, and the prehistoric culture still on display in its nearby mountains, away from crowds in luxurious mountain lodges specifically built for small groups, with Mountain Lodges Of Peru.

Visitors after a sophisticated, old-world experience can choose from some of the classiest hotels in the Americas in Lima’s fashionable beachside suburbs. You can stay at the former holiday retreat of a 1920s Peruvian president overlooking the Pacific at Hotel B at Barranco.

CRAIG TANSLEY

STAY HERE, LUXE FOR LESS

Stay at luxury Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel, a collection of 81 white adobe casitas nestled in a forest near the ancient city – if you book for two nights for travel from now until 31 December 2016, you get a third night for free. Or, instead choose Inkaterra La Casona in Cusco, where a three-night stay during the same time will earn you 50 per cent off spa services. inkaterra.com

Belmond Sanctuary Lodge Machu Picchu is offering an Escape and Upgrade package, where stays between now and 31 December 2016 will receive a complimentary accommodation upgrade (the package also includes daily buffet breakfast and a la carte lunch and dinner). belmond.com/sanctuary-lodge-machu-picchu

From left: Las Ventanas al Paraiso in Los Cabos, Mexico; Luxury villa at Las Ventanas al Paraiso.

MACHU PICCHU, PERU

A true piece of paradise

Bentota, Sri Lanka

Bentota, Sri Lanka

+94 34 720 0334 / resv@samanvilla.com www.samanvilla.com

+94 34 720 0334 / resv@samanvilla.com www.samanvilla.com

Saman Villas, a true piece of paradise. Immerse yourself in the style and sophistication of one of the most luxurious boutique hotels on the island. Walk on the pristine beach, take a relaxing dip in the sea, discover inner harmony with a pampering spa session or lose yourself in gourmet delights. At Saman Villas, luxury comes as standard and ‘getting away from it all’ takes on a whole new meaning.

Saman Villas, a true piece of paradise. Immerse yourself in the style and sophistication of one of the most luxurious boutique hotels on the island. Walk on the pristine beach, take a relaxing dip in the sea, discover inner harmony with a pampering spa session or lose yourself in gourmet delights. At Saman Villas, luxury comes as standard and ‘getting away from it all’ takes on a whole new meaning.

SOUTH AFRICA

+18%

With the Australian dollar rising 18 per cent against the rand, South Africa has become a great value destination. The country’s abundance of wineries means wine is extremely affordable, and you can dine out for a fraction of the price you’d pay in Australia.

In Cape Town, the Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa, opening in the historic Grain Silo complex at the V&A Waterfront in March, is being billed as the most significant new museum in Africa in more than a century. The nearby One&Only Cape Town, which overlooks the marina, is a great base from which to explore the museum and the city’s other attractions, including Table Mountain and Robben Island, where Nelson Mandela was incarcerated

But seeing the ‘big five’ – lion, elephant, buffalo, rhino and leopard – is the main drawcard. While Kruger National Park is the most famous, private reserves offer more exclusive safari experiences.

Neighbouring Sabi Sabi Private Game Reserve has four luxury lodges with the themes yesterday (traditional), today (contemporary) and tomorrow (futuristic). The innovative Earth Lodge, which is one of National Geographic’s Unique Lodges of the World, is built into the side of a hill of natural materials. Its 13 suites

have private plunge pools from which impalas often drink, while elephants have been known to walk on the roof. Dine amidst 6000 bottles of rare wines in the underground wine cellar, and take part in small group safaris and learn about the reserve’s conservation efforts.

STAY HERE, LUXE FOR LESS

One&Only Cape Town currently offers 15 per cent off suite bookings between now and 22 September 2017, as well as a ‘Stay Four Nights, Pay for Three’ package, applicable to all room categories. oneandonlyresorts.com/oneand-only-cape-town-south-africa

Or set out on a safari at the privately owned Tswalu Kalahari Reserve. If you book to stay four nights at either of the luxurious Motse and Tarkuni properties, you’ll get a fifth night free, as well as horse rides, walking safaris, a private guide, vehicle and tracker, WiFi and access to the Children’s Junior Ranger programme and babysitting. tswalu.com

SOUTH KOREA

-7 %

South Korea is not an obvious luxury travel destination, but it has a great deal to offer in terms of food, culture and scenery. Seoul is a modern city made beautiful by the palaces and vast ancient city gates within it, and by the mountains that fringe it, as well as its markets and cuisine. The Park Hyatt is considered the pick of the bunch, but top-quality hotels are in abundance and the locally owned Shilla is a long-standing favourite. Few western visitors get beyond Seoul, but they should. Arguably the most interesting trip in South Korea – and the most nerve-wracking –is the tour to the border with North Korea, which includes a visit to tunnels that have been discovered leading across the border, a tour of the De-

From top: Table Mountain in Cape Town, South Africa; Elephants in Addo Elephant National Park, South Africa.

“ The nearby One&Only Cape Town, which overlooks the marina, is a great base from which to explore the museum and the city’s other attractions, including Table Mountain”

QUALITY MASTER/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

JONATHAN PLEDGER/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

militarised Zone, and even a visit to the hut where the armistice was signed to divide the country in two, in full view of North Korean border guards.

A more peaceful destination might be Jeju, the beautiful island to the south of the Korean peninsular, or the ancient capital of Gyeongju. In the right season, the skiing is among the best in Asia, with top resorts such as Yongpyong.

So start planning your trip - the average cost of a flight from Australia has dropped by seven per cent year on year to A$725. The Aussie dollar and won cross-rate has been stable for the last two years.

CW

STAY HERE, LUXE FOR LESS

Lotte Hotel Seoul, a five-star hotel in the heart of the South Korean capital’s CBD, offers a stay four, pay for three deal with free breakfast and welcome drinks included, plus a dinner at one of the hotel restaurants on the final night of your stay. Rates start from W380,000 (about A$440) per night. lottehotel.com/seoul/en/

SRI LANKA -7 % +5%

With spectacular surf and swim beaches, ancient temples, colonial heritage towns, lush tea plantations and mouth-wateringly delicious food, Sri Lanka has been seducing Aussie backpackers for

years. Now a string of luxury resorts and boutique properties are paving the way for a new breed of traveller, and they offer serious bang-for-buck.

There’s the ravishing eco-resort Tri on Lake Koggala, or the terracotta-tiled Cape Weligama on a windswept bluff near the charming fort town of Galle. Mix it up by heading to the hills and stay in Ceylon Tea Trails’ quaint colonial cottages set among the misty tea plantations to the north.

Move now to take advantage of the Australian dollar’s five per cent growth against the Sri Lankan rupee, making an affordable destination even more attractive. Sri Lanka has also seen a seven per cent year-on-year drop in flight prices from Australia, down to an average of A$576. With a total of eight UNESCO World Heritage sites in a compact space, Sri Lanka is the island destination of choice for travellers who like their beach breaks with a side helping of culture and culinary exploration.

STAY HERE, LUXE FOR LESS

Stay at The Fortress Resort and Spa, in the historic town of Koggala on the Sri Lankan south coast. If you book for a stay before 19 December 2016 you can save up to 40 per cent off the standard rates for an all-inclusive package that comprises breakfast, lunch and dinner, selected alcoholic beverages, minibar, afternoon tea, daily sundown cocktail and farewell destination dinner. fortressresortandspa.com.

Clockwise from left: Bukchon in Seoul, Korea; crowds in Myeong-Dong district in Seoul; St Clair's Falls, Sri Lanka; traditional stilt fishermen at sunset near Galle in Sri Lanka.

“South Korea is not an obvious luxury travel destination, but it has a great deal to offer in terms of food, culture and scenery”

YURY

THAILAND

-2 % +10%

While Thailand is an affordable Asian holiday destination popular with backpackers, it also has plenty of luxury offerings, from high-end beachside resorts to slick city hotels and villas. The Australian dollar has risen by 10 per cent against the Thai baht over the past year, while the price of flights has dropped slightly (two per cent), making it a great time to visit.

Bangkok is usually the first port of call for visitors, with the bustling city offering an excellent introduction to Thai street food and the temples and palaces the country is known for. The Peninsula Bangkok has rooms decorated with silk Thai furnishings and overlooking the Chao Phraya River, and a three-tiered pool surrounded by sun loungers and traditional Thai pavilions.

Around three hours’ drive away, the chic Sofitel SO Hua Hin opened in early 2016 in an area that is a popular holiday spot for Bangkok locals. More like a boutique hotel than a resort, Sofitel SO Hua Hin is on its own private beach and boasts quirky design

elements, including colourful artworks and rain showers in the middle of the bathroom. It is a short bike ride to Cha Am fishing village, where you can indulge in fresh seafood, and you can do day tours to visit the magnificent Khao Luang cave temple and the palace where the Thai royal family once spent their summer holidays.

STAY HERE, LUXE FOR LESS

The Six Senses Yao Noi is a luxury resort with views over Thailand’s famed Phang Nga Bay. If you book a stay in a Pool Villa for five nights or longer, you will get a 20 per cent discount off the best available rate as well as complimentary breakfast daily. sixsenses.com/resorts/yao-noi

Or for a city hotel saving, book at The St. Regis Bangkok, a luxe hotel in a great spot on Rajadamri Road. Bookings for two nights will receive a third free, and a fivenight stay or longer will save 25 per cent. stregisbangkok.com

To confirm pricing, details, and terms and conditions for each deal, visit the website listed. Deals were accurate at the time of printing.

See more images from this story at luxurytravelmag.com.au

*Flight pricing and currency exchange rate research courtesy of Lisa Perkovic, travel expert, Expedia

Average flight prices are based on the average flight ticket price for all ticket fare types on Expedia’s Australian website in the period 1 January – 30 June 2016 for the described destinations. Year-on-year changes are calculated for the same time period for 2015. Prices shown are booked on the Australian site and are not the rates currently displayed on the site. Rates are subject to flight and date selections made. expedia.com.au

Looking for other destinations? We asked flight aggregator Skyscanner which countries were the best value to fly to from Australia during November:

• Save up to 24% when booking flights to Singapore from Perth ($481.83 avg. price paid across year v $365.02 avg. price paid in November)

• Save up to 22% when booking flights to Dublin from Perth ($1683.11 avg. price paid across year v $1308.49 average price paid in November)

• Save up to 19% when booking flights to Honolulu from Melbourne ($1041.28 avg. price paid across year v $840.06 avg. price paid in November)

• Save up to 20% when booking flights to Tokyo from Sydney ($1092.35 avg. price paid across year v $873.57 avg. price paid in November)

Please note, prices above are based on data sourced during mid-October and are subject to change and flexibility, please always refer to Skyscanner site for individual costs and prices. skyscanner.com.au

“You can do day tours to visit the magnificent Khao Luang cave temple”

THAM KHAO LUANG CAVE, THAILAND ICEINK/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

An Island without equal

Laucala Island is a 3,500 acre paradise gem located in the northern region of Fiji. This exclusive private island is set amidst coconut plantations, sandy beaches, turquoise lagoons, rich green mountains. True luxury is appreciated in the privacy of the indigenously inspired 25 villas comprising one, two and three-bedrooms. Experience a variety of activities for all ages, ranging from golf to numerous water sports including a submarine, horseback riding and a Spa. The resort prides itself on an integral philosophy, incorporating elements of the entire island into each guest’s experience, and offering products and ingredients raised and grown on the island in its 5 restaurants and bars. www.laucala.com

Laucala Island

LAUCALA ISLAND, FIJI IS SPECIFICALLY SUITABLE FOR MULTI-GENERATION TRAVEL

DESTINATION

LUXE-FOR-LESS DEALS IN THE MALDIVES

& OUR WRITERS TAKE IN : THE MODERN OPULENCE OF VIENNA / TRAVEL THE WAY WE DO...AND DISCOVER THE HISTORY OF COLOMBIA / PLAN A SUMMER ISLAND GETAWAY IN GREECE / WE GUIDE YOU AROUND THE SWANKY CITY HOTSPOTS IN LONDON

GUATAPE, COLOMBIA FOTOS593/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

MALDIVES Luxe-For-Less

COMPLIMENTARY NIGHTS AT ONE&ONLY REETHI RAH

One&Only Reethi Rah is a long-standing Maldives favourite. Frequented by celebrities and other A-listers, the five-star resort, which occupies one of the largest islands in North Malé Atoll, spans six kilometres of coastline and offers guests the ultimate luxury escape.

Special: Stay for seven nights and pay for five. Book before 31 May 2017 for stays between 23 April 2017 and 18 December 2017 and receive an additional 15 per cent off the best available rate.

Inclusions: Breakfast and one additional meal daily in the Reethi Restaurant (excluding beverages), return boat airport transfers.

*Regular rates start from US$1600 (about A$2097) per room, per night. Valid for stays until 18 December 2017. Offer is applicable for all guests staying in the same villa. Minimum stay is seven nights.

OCEAN ESCAPE TIME AT AMILLA FUSHI, BAA ATOLL

Amilla Fushi is a luxury island resort located in the UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve Baa Atoll. The secluded accommodation options range from Lagoon Water Villas suspended over the ocean, to sleek Beach House retreats and a Wellness Treehouse nestled among the treetops.

Special: Stay a minimum of three nights in an Ocean Lagoon or Ocean Reef House and receive a 25 per cent discount with the #oceanescapetime deal.

Inclusions: Breakfast.

*Regular rates start from US$1650 (about A$2166) per room, per night. valid until 19 December 2016.

Katie Milton BREAKS DOWN SOME OF THE BEST LUXE-FOR-LESS DEALS TO BE FOUND IN ONE OF THE WORLD’S MOST SOUGHTAFTER HOLIDAY DESTINATIONS, THE MALDIVES.

EARLY BOOKING DISCOUNT AT DIAMONDS THUDUFUSHI

Set on the western edge of South Ari Atoll, Diamonds Thudufushi is just a 20-minute seaplane flight from Malé International Airport. The resort features 47 Beach Bungalows and 25 Water Villas (each with their own private terrace), a resident marine biologist and overwater restaurant. Special: Book at least 30 days before arrival and save 30 per cent.

Inclusions: Drinks, minibar, WiFi in the hotel reception and Water Villas, snorkelling equipment, taxes and service. *Regular rates start from US$980 (about A$1275) per room, per night. Valid until 23 December 2017.

Occupying a private island accessible by seaplane, Anantara Kihavah is a five-star resort comprising 79 beach and overwater pool villas. The luxury property features an underwater restaurant and wine cellar, on-site cooking school and over-water spa. Special: Book a minimum two-night stay starting from A$2036 per night and earn rewards.

Inclusions: Daily breakfast for two, room upgrade, a signature cocktail or mocktail per stay, late check-out (subject to availability), 20 per cent off dining for two (excluding alcohol), 20 per cent off 90-minute oil massages for two.

*Regular rates start from A$2135 per room, per night. Valid dates variable.

CELEBRATE CHRISTMAS AT GILI LANKANFUSHI

Gili Lankanfushi offers guests barefoot luxury at its best. Set in one of the largest lagoons in the Maldives, this eco-conscious resort offers distinctive activities like coral planting, blue-light night snorkelling and sound therapy spa treatments. Special: Spend Christmas in the

Maldives

Inclusions: Your choice of villa accommodation, meet and greet at Malé International Airport and return speedboat transfers, early check-in and late check-out, Christmas Eve Gala Dinner for two, daily festive amenities, children under 12 stay free when sharing with two adults (maximum two children).

*Regular rates start from US$2848 (about A$3735) per room, per night. Valid for stays between 16 December and 26 December 2016.

ANANTARA KIHAVAH SHORT BREAKS SPECIAL

Left from top: Diamonds Thudufushi; flowers petals on the bed at Diamonds Thudufushi.

Above from top: Anantara Kihavah Overwater Villa; Beach Pool Villa at Anantara Kihavah.

Right from top: Sea kayaking at Gili Lankanfushi; Overwater villa at Gili Lankanfushi.

COMPLIMENTARY NIGHTS FOR WEEKEND STAYS AT JUMEIRAH VITTAVELI

Located on a private island only accessible by speedboat, Jumeirah Vittaveli has 89 villas and suites and offers a multitude of leisure and wellness facilities. Guests can be served sunrise breakfast on the beach, take a tour along the surrounding reef by semi-submarine, or learn to make Maldivian-style coconut oil.

Special: Stay for a weekend and receive a third night free.

Inclusions: Breakfast, dining for children under 12, private swimming pool with every villa, exclusive access to private beach or lagoon, WiFi access, kids’ club, non-motorised water sports, use of bicycles.

*Regular rates start from US$1050 (about A$1375) per room, per night. Valid for stays until 20 December 2016. Must arrive on a Thursday, Friday or Saturday.

Addicted to the

MALDIVES

ALL-ACCESS PACKAGE AT SHERATON MALDIVES FULLMOON RESORT & SPA

Featuring 176 guest rooms, seven on-site restaurants, a kids’ club and Shine Spa, this private island resort is perfect for the entire family. Set on Furanafushi Island, surrounded by private beaches and a lagoon, the accommodation options range from Water Bungalows to Beach Front Cottages and Ocean Pool Villas.

Special: All-access package for one price, starting from US$490 (about A$645) per person per night.

Inclusions: Speedboat return airport transfers, unlimited dining, free-flowing beverages in resort restaurants and bars, mini bar, unlimited Shine Spa massages, pedicures and manicures for two, full range of water sport activities such as parasailing, jet skiing, scheduled dive trips and excursions.

*Valued at US$900 (about A$1185) per person, per night. Regular rates start from US$351 (about A$460) per room, per night. Valid for bookings and stays between 1 September 2016 and 30 September 2017. Minimum stay is three nights.

• For more information on these Maldives deals head to luxurytravelmag.com.au/luxe-less

LUXURY TRAVEL CONCIERGE

A

SPECIALISES

How many times have you visited the Maldives?

Too many to count! We first visited the Maldives on our honeymoon back in 2008 and have been returning at least twice a year since. This year we are lucky enough to be jet setting back four times!

Why are you addicted to the Maldives?

Oh, for so many reasons. Firstly, it is just one of those places that is truly even more naturally stunning in real life than any photo or brochure you have seen. You have to experience it to understand. The quality and standard of accommodation, food and service, etcetera, is second to none. Not to mention the water and the incredibly diverse marine life there. It is also the only place [where] my husband and I truly do switch off from the daily grind back home, and a place where we always enjoy quality time as a family.

What is the advantage for Luxury Travel readers when using you to book their Maldives holiday? Dealing with a destination specialist like myself offers so much more than an online booking system or other travel agent because I can offer you honest advice and recommendations, based on real experiences. It can be quite overwhelming when you start researching the Maldives, as there are so many resorts to choose from. We take the time to understand our clients’ likes and dislikes and what is important [for] each individual when on holiday, and then personally tailor

a bespoke Maldives experience for them.

We have worked very hard at developing a strong network of relationships with our resort partners in the Maldives, and this means that we have direct contracts with these resorts. The benefit for clients is that we will always be competitive price wise, however, it also means that our clients are given the VIP treatment and [are] very well looked after during their stay.

What does the Maldives offer luxury travellers?

Personal butlers catering to your every whim, villas that are larger than most apartments here in Australia – and most with private pools, a food and beverage team at your disposal to cater to dietary requirements, and a host of dining options.

Can you give us an insider tip on finding luxe-for-less options in the Maldives?

The Maldives offers two distinct seasons – the dry season running December to April and the wet season May to November. The wet season generally offers some amazing discounted packages including stay pay deals, complimentary meals and discounted transfers as an example.

As the Maldives sits close to the Equator, it benefits from warm temperatures year round of between 27 and 30 degrees. The wet season can absolutely still be a great time to travel and you get to take advantage of some great value discounts! addictedtomaldives.com.au

Dianne Lechner IS

PERSONAL

WHO

IN TRAVEL TO THE MALDIVES. Katie Milton SPOKE WITH DIANNE FOR THE INSIDE SCOOP.

JUMEIRAH VITTAVELI

Hosted Small Group Journeys with a Difference

For over half a century, Abercrombie & Kent has been a pioneer in the world of luxury travel. Using the expertise of over 52 offices and 2,200 staff worldwide, we’re pleased to announce our new portfolio of Hosted Small Group Journeys. This series of small group journeys is creatively designed with educational elements that broaden the mind and foster an in-depth knowledge of the destinations, their people, wildlife and culture. Group sizes are from 14 - 18, with your tour hosts entertaining and charismatic travelling companions.

ITALY ‘Food & Walks in Puglia & Amalfi’

Experience the breathtaking landscapes of Puglia and Amalfi on foot whilst sampling bountiful cuisine along the way.

11 Days | $10,995 per person twin share

SOUTH AMERICA

‘Treasures of the Andes: Chile, Bolivia & Peru’

Combine the highlights of northern Chile with the extraordinary Bolivian salt flats and high altitude wonders of Lake Titicaca and Cusco.

17 Days | $16,395 per person twin share

JAPAN ‘Festivals & Culture’

Immerse yourself in the culture of Japan visiting stunning gardens as well as samurai villas, mountain villages and the Takayama Festival.

15 Days | $16,695 per person twin share

IRAN ‘A Journey Through Persia’

Plot a course through Iran’s unique heritage discovering a vast and fascinating country with a 5,000 year old history.

16 Days | $11,350 per person twin share

COLOMBIA ‘Jewels of Colombia’

Discover why Colombia is Latin America’s best kept secret when you explore this fascinating country in the company of Bogotá expat, Richard McColl.

11 Days | $8,295 per person twin share

CHINA

‘The Ancient Silk Road’

Traverse this vast hinterland of Asia, the rugged and desolate landscapes and once- flourishing oasis cities and trading outposts.

10 Days | $10,995 per person twin share

SHINE BRIGHT LIKE A DIAMOND

STEEPED IN OPULENCE AND HISTORY, VIENNA STILL MANAGES TO CELEBRATE MODERNITY, WRITES Catherine Marshall .

There’s a talisman cropping up all over Vienna, and it’s diamondbright. It appears in the crystal petals dripping from the chandeliers that hang inside J&L Lobmeyr, the celebrated crystal and glassware purveyor in the city’s Golden Quarter; it shows up in the sequinned stairwell of the Swarovski store on Stephansplatz; flutters incandescent in the snowy eyelashes of the Lipizzaner horses stabled at the Spanish Riding School; glows from within the ponderous light pendant affixed like a great, bejewelled ring to the ceiling of the Vienna State Opera; and – most adoringly, to be sure – twinkles in the 27 diamond starbursts gifted by Emperor Franz Joseph to his beloved wife, Empress Elisabeth (known as Sisi), to wear in her dark, lustrous hair.

“The most important customer, of course, was Sisi,” says Christoph Kochert, pinching a replica starburst between his fingers and holding it up to the light.

We’re inside A.E. Kochert, the intimate, wood-panelled jewellery salon where Sisi’s starbursts were handcrafted. It’s an old and hallowed space. Established in 1814 and renowned as the jeweller to the imperial court, the company is still run as a family business. The inspiration for Sisi’s hair-jewels came from a production of Shakespeare’s A Midsummer Night’s Dream during which she noticed that the character of Titania had fairy stars sprinkled through her hair.

“She recognised herself in this woman, and so Franz Joseph gave her a box filled with 27 diamond stars,” Kochert explains.

Many a woman has imitated Sisi since. The diamond hair clips that so delighted her are still worn today, in glass or crystal imitations, or in their genuine form, studded with tiny diamonds in A.E. Kochert’s second-floor workshop on Neuer Markt.

It’s a romantic tale, and one that conjures the rich imperial history of this city and the delight-

ful traditions that endure. But the rest of Sisi’s story is told somewhat less quixotically at the Schönbrunn Palace, which this year marks the centenary of Emperor Joseph’s death. Though the much-loved Hapsburg monarch presided over his subjects for a remarkable 68 years, it’s his restless, melancholic wife who draws my attention during a tour of the imperial apartments.

Anchoring Sisi’s quarters is her red and goldwallpapered dressing room, where she would undergo a strict beauty regime for hours each day. On a dressing table sits a selection of hairbrushes with which she would tame her cascading, sometimes diamond-studded hair. In the corner stands the wood-framed mirror that would have reflected, as the years passed by, Sisi’s ageing face and the light disappearing from her eyes. Sisi, it is said, was obsessed with youth and beauty, and the maintenance of her slim, corset-honed body; she could barely tolerate the advancement of age.

THE SPANISH RIDING SCHOOL RESTAURANT KONSTANTIN FILIPPOU

A CARRIAGE RIDE THROUGH VIENNA

“This reluctant empress would have found succour, surely, at the windows overlooking the palace gardens ... These now-public gardens regenerate each year so they remain just as beautiful as they once were, and are listed, together with the palace, as a UNESCO World Heritage Site”

But this reluctant empress would have found succour, surely, at the windows overlooking the palace gardens. From here she would have seen, stretching out for more than a kilometre in each direction, a confection of Baroquestyled flower beds filled with riotous blooms in spring and summer, avenues of trees, secret alcoves, and places of contemplation and repose. These now-public gardens regenerate each year so they remain just as beautiful as they once were, and are listed, together with the palace, as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

It wasn’t old age that Sisi finally succumbed to; instead, she was assassinated tragically –and somewhat randomly – by an Italian anarchist while visiting Geneva in 1898, at the age of 60. In the 118 years since, the empress’s Vienna has somehow grown younger, evolving to accommodate at once both the opulence of its imperial past and a bourgeoning, thoroughly 21st-century aesthetic.

I am immersed in this dichotomy over the course of just a few hours. First, I sit down to eat at Konstantin Filippou’s eponymous, Michelinstarred restaurant, a space characterised by neutral colours and a decidedly cubist sensibility. This unfussy interior – and a menu that simply

lists the three or four chief ingredients in each dish – allows me to better appreciate the edible artwork placed before me: homemade malt bread with onion butter; an amuse-bouche of duck liver pâté with blackcurrant and beetroot; deer tenderloin paired with cochayuyo (crispy seaweed from Chile), txogitxu (air-dried beef from Spain) and morel. Even the diners here are dressed in elementary black smattered with neutrals, the uniform for a new millennium.

Later, I retire to the Hotel Sacher Wien, a Viennese landmark opened in 1876 by Eduard Sacher, son of the creator of that most famous of Viennese cakes, Sacher-Torte. Though fitted with modern amenities and technologies – the mirror in my marble bathroom doubles as a television screen – the hotel has retained the warmth, charm and colour of a long-gone past. The reception is a narrow, tucked-away compartment lined with flocked crimson wallpaper and endless photos of famous guests. The lobby invites me to sink into its velvety sofas and watch as a parade of possibly well-known people wafts by. Much like those of the imperial apartments, the suites and rooms here are embellished with antique rugs and gilt-framed paintings, silk wallpaper and flowing drapes.

I’m staying in The Nutcracker Suite, named for the score written by Tchaikovsky for the ballet, The Nutcracker. It’s decorated in shades of soft butter yellow and bathed in the scent of fresh roses. It’s old, but is inhabited by someone comparatively new. And it’s suffused with that Viennese talisman I’ve come to depend on: light. For hanging from the ceiling is a voluminous chandelier – a Lobmyer, perhaps? – its teardrop petals speared floorwards, its candelabras aglow, its light bouncing bright and fresh and merry into every corner of this grand old room.

VIENNA

l STAY HERE

Double rooms at the Hotel Sacher Wien are available from €495 (about A$730) per night for two people. sacher.com

l GET THERE

Emirates flies to Vienna from Sydney via Dubai. emirates.com/au

See more images from this story at luxurytravelmag.com.au

l RECOMMENDED READING

THE CROOKED MAID by Dan Vyleta

Vienna, 1948. The war is over, and as the initial phase of de-Nazification winds down, the citizens of Vienna struggle to rebuild their lives amidst the rubble. Anna Beer returns to the city she fled nine years earlier after discovering her husband’s infidelity. She has come back to find him and, perhaps, to forgive him. Travelling on the same train from Switzerland is 18-yearold Robert Seidel, a schoolboy summoned home to his stepfather’s sickbed and the secrets of his family’s past. tripfiction.com/books/the-crooked-maid/

“Though fitted with modern amenities and technologies… the hotel has retained the warmth, charm and colour of a long-gone past”

From top: Restaurant Rote Bar at Hotel Sacher Wien; a couple shopping in the Golden Quarter.

A NEW DIRECTION

WHILE HOSTING AN 11-DAY TOUR OF COLOMBIA, JOURNALIST Richard McColl DID HIS BEST TO SATISFY THE ALMOST PALPABLE CURIOSITY AROUND HIM. AS HIS TOUR GROUP SOON DISCOVERED, THIS ONCETROUBLED NATION HAS LIFTED ITS TOURISM GAME.

Explaining contemporary Colombia is no easy feat. The political upheavals and widely publicised violence make this greatly misunderstood country something of a tricky topic. My guests demand the facts and I attempt to balance the hard truths with positive news like the recent peace agreements and the Nobel Peace Prize for President Juan Manuel Santos. Fortunately, once everyone is settled in and comfortable in the thin high-altitude air of Bogotá, Colombia herself does the speaking. The Jewels of Colombia trip is properly underway and for the next 11 days, this group of well-travelled and well-educated adventurers are in my keep.

It’s a crisp morning at 2600 metres above sea level and the piercing blue sky allows for an expansive view from the vantage point on top of the Monserrate mountain over Colombia’s capital city. To the north are the glass-encased skyscrapers denoting the “modern” city and spilling out to the south as if poured along these Andean foothills are the invasiones or shanty towns, a timely reminder of the effects of the conflict in the countryside which caused so many to escape to the city. Today, things are so much better, we reflect, as peace with the largest guerrilla group was signed in September 2016 and further dialogues are in the pipeline for the final rebel holdouts.

As the funicular brings us back down, there’s a palpable silence about the group. There’s so much to take in and consider. For now, I keep them contented with anecdotes about the ghosts of the colonial Candelaria, Bogotá’s old town, which dates back to the 16th century, before plunging into the world-class collection in the Gold Museum. As if blinded by the sun from viewing too much Quimbaya gold and with belts bulging after the hearty local meal of ajiaco – a filling potato, corn and chicken soup – we find relief in the Botero Museum where light humour is shared at the expense of Colombian artist Fernando Botero’s “overweight” statues.

Leaving Bogotá behind in a comfortable private bus, there’s the obligatory stop en route to the colonial town of Villa de Leyva at the Salt Cathedral of Zipaquirá. Hollowed and restored, this former salt mine is now one of Colombia’s most visited attractions and rightly so.

Cobblestones, manicured bougainvillea plants blazing their colours unashamedly, and quaint boutique shops entertain us in Villa de Leyva. At dinner, the group agree they didn’t know whether to take a siesta after the drive from the capital or to photograph their rooms in the eclectic yet stylish posada.

Taking a break from Colombia’s ethereal colonial wonders, we step into another parallel environment

Clockwise from above left: La Candelaria Monastery and courtyard near Villa de Leyva, Colombia; historic Bogotá; a golden mask in Bogotá's Gold Museum.

Opposite pate: Angel statue and cross in the Salt Cathedral of Zipaquira.

by enjoying a brief flight over another of the country’s mountain ranges and into the coffee region. The black stuff has been enjoying a renaissance in Colombia and now a healthy amount of the quality crop remains within the country and is not earmarked for exportation to hipster cafes in San Francisco or Melbourne. It’s time to immerse ourselves in coffee culture and I get the feeling that some of my group would gladly float in the sundrying coffee beans like children in a ball pit. But there’s a culture behind coffee cultivation, and the picturesque town of Salento – with its brightly painted balconies, scenic central plaza and accommodating people – may be an unrivalled place to begin. Perhaps the caffeine rush has been too effective as most are left speechless or bereft of the appropriate words to express their wonder at the towering Quindian wax palms – Colombia’s national tree – which reach heights of up to 60 metres.

No one visits Colombia without a mention made of the nefarious Escobarian past of Medellín and the countless tales surrounding the former kingpin of international drug trafficking. So, during a side trip to the charming lakeside village of Guatapé, we cover our bases with an open conversation about Medellin’s cartel past and bright future. Today, Medellín hosts “transformation tours” to highlight the in-

credible turnaround of the former murder capital of the world. The dark years are behind them, but there remains work to be done, but if anyone can do it, rest assured it will be the industrious and hard-working paisa people. Want to make friends in Medellín? Easy. Simply compliment them on their metro system, cable cars and innovative urban renewal plans, as they are all a source of understandable pride.

No trip to Colombia is complete without winding down in the eternal city of Colombian tourism on the Caribbean coast, Cartagena. The walled city, with her sophisticated offering of restaurants and upmarket shops, appeals to everyone and is the source of so much inspiration for Colombia’s Nobel Prize-winning author, Gabriel Garcia Marquez. Knock back a mojito on the city wall, allow the smell of cinnamon to enter your pores, and permit the Caribbean winds to cool you as the magic of Colombia lifts you up and offers a reflection of how far this formerly troubled country has come. Colombia is open for business.

COLOMBIA

l GET THERE

LATAM Airlines flies daily between Sydney and Santiago, Chile, via Auckland, with connections to Colombia’s Bogota, twice daily. For more information or to make a booking call LATAM reservations on 1800 126 038, visit your local travel agent or latam.com

See more images from this story at luxurytravelmag.com.au

Below: Jesus Nazareno Church

In Medellín, Colombia.

Right: A vibrant yellow walkway in Cartegena.

SHUTTERSTOCK.COM/MATYAS REHAK

“No trip to Colombia is complete without winding down in the eternal city of Colombian tourism on the Caribbean coast, Cartagena”

A Luxury Travel magazine itinerary

JEWELS OF COLOMBIA WITH WITH ABERCROMBIE & KENT

Day 11

Depart Cartagena

Transfer to Cartagena airport for onward flight arrangements.

Meals included: Breakfast

Itinerary includes:

Accommodation as detailed on a double/twin share basis with private facilities; meals as specified; bottled water during transfers and touring; airport welcome; assistance with luggage and group transportation by private air-conditioned vehicle; services of English speaking A&K tour escort & Guest Host; all entrance fees, planning, handling, operational and communication charges, all tipping excluding A&K tour escort; internal flights in Colombia (as per program).

Itinerary excludes:

International flights, visa, insurance coverage of personal loss, injury, illness or damages incurred during your trip; items of a purely personal nature such as drinks, laundry, dry cleaning, internet, fax or phone charges; transfers/ sightseeing or meals not specified in itinerary; excess baggage charges; tipping to A&K tour escort. Tipping is not expected or required for Guest Host.

Cost:

A$8295 per person twin share, (single supplement A$1995) for travel from 12 to 22 May, 2017, or from 24 November to 4 December 2017

For a detailed version of the Luxury Travel magazine / Abercrombie & Kent ‘Jewels of Colombia’ itinerary, visit luxurytravelmag.com.au/ itineraries or call +61 3 9536 1800

Note: Five-star hotels are not available in Villa de Leyva. You will be staying in a property where facilities are simple but adequate. In general, hotel standards in Colombia are lower than can be expected in other Latin America countries.

GRECIAN GRANDEUR

AS WE PREPARE FOR AN AUSTRALIAN SUMMER, THE GREEK ISLANDS ARE EXPERIENCING A COOL MEDITERRANEAN WINTER. WHAT BETTER TIME TO PLAN AHEAD FOR AN ISLAND ODYSSEY? BY Camilla Wagstaff .

The Greek Islands, broadly speaking, refers to several thousand islands strewn across both the Aegean and Ionian seas, although it is those that are inhabited and offer luxury accommodation that make up the ideal playground for island-hopping luxury travellers looking for a postcard-perfect Mediterranean holiday.

The best time to travel to the islands is from April to October (high season is during July and August), and with such choice for islands to visit and places to stay, we’ve selected six stunning resorts on equally stunning islands to help you plan your own Greek Island adventure.

THE CYCLADES SANTORINI ANDRONIKOS HOTEL  SANTORINI

Santorini is renowned for some pretty spectacular vistas. Set upon the monstrous cliffs of a longsince imploded volcano, the main towns have breathtaking views of the glittering caldera below (and the sunsets aren’t bad, either). The newly constructed Andronikos Hotel Santorini might just have the best view of them all.

Nestled amongst the rolling white buildings and winding paths of Imerovigli, these boutique suites are a luxe update on Santorini tradition. If private jacuzzis and balconies overlooking miles of blue ocean are more your style, you’ve come to the right place.

The rooms are set back into the cliff and are cool, clean-lined and cavernous. You might expect them to be a little dark, but sunlight streams in over the soft, organic forms and fresh ocean palette. My suite fronted onto one of the main walkways of the island, which made for a little foot traffic outside. Ask for a room on the upper levels if you prefer the quiet. It is about a 25-minute walk to the heart of the capital town Fira and a beautiful 2.5-hour hike to Oia (wear sneakers or hiking boots). Andronikos can also organise semi-private or private sailing trips in the caldera as well as helicopter, airplane or boat charters for short stays on other islands. Breakfast is served at the hotel’s

partner restaurant, The Athenian House, next door, and is not to be missed.

Gorgeous views and luxurious rooms aside, perhaps the best thing about this hotel is its incredible staff. They are willing to go above and beyond to make each guest’s Santorini experience one to remember.

The Andronikos hotels group plans to expand to new destinations in Greece with the first new addition, Andronikos Athens, due to open at the end of 2017.

Suite rates range from €355 (about A$508) per night in the low season (April and October) to €685 (about A$980) per night in the high season (end of June to mid-September) and include breakfast. andronikossantorini.gr

FOLEGANDROS ANEMI HOTEL

l STAY HERE FOR: UNTAPPED ESCAPE

With just over 700 permanent inhabitants, Folegandros is off the beaten track, to say the least, but that certainly doesn’t mean Folegandros doesn’t do luxury. Case in point? Anemi Hotel.

Set against the rugged terrain of Karavostasis village, the cluster of pristine whitewashed buildings surrounding an electric blue infinity

“Set upon the monstrous cliffs of a long-since imploded volcano, the main towns have breathtaking views of the glittering caldera below (and the sunsets aren’t bad, either).

The newly constructed Andronikos Hotel Santorini might just have the best view of them all”

Above: The view from Andronikos Hotel Santorini.

Opposite page from top: Blue hue in a room at Andronikos Hotel Santorini; Anemi Hotel.

pool make a lasting impression. A Design Hotels, Anemi Hotel's buildings house 44 unique rooms and suites that expertly combine traditional Cycladic architecture with contemporary Greek style. High, exposed-beam ceilings, sparkling ocean views and white everything, this is barefoot luxury at its best. All rooms feature large bathtubs and comfortable king-size or twin beds, and two of the larger suites have their own private pool.

The hotel is home to one of about three gourmet restaurants on the island, with a selection of local and international dishes to be enjoyed overlooking the pool area. While there’s no spa onsite, the hotel has partnerships with a number of local therapists and can organise in-room services on request. There is also a small fitness centre and a tennis court. The internet connection is what you’d expect from an island with less than 1000 inhabitants. It works, most of the time, but you’re not going to be streaming videos all day. But I promise, you won’t want to.

If you’re after a secluded escape completely removed from the hustle and bustle of the real world, Anemi Hotel is for you. Unwind, relax and enjoy this untapped paradise for a few days. It will not disappoint.

Suite rates range from €310 (about A$443) per night in the low season (May and June) to €740 euro (about A$1058) per night in the high season (August) and include breakfast. anemihotel.gr

MYKONOS

BILL & COO SUITES & LOUNGE

l STAY HERE FOR: A LAVISH PARADISE

CLOSE TO THE PARTY

When I’m picked up from the bustling docks of Mykonos, swept into a sleek black four-wheel drive and handed a cool towel and icy bottle of water, I’m pretty sure I’m in for some seriously good service. When I arrive at Bill & Coo Suites & Lounge, and am treated to an arrival ritual of cocktails and amuse bouches overlooking the infinity pool, my hunch is confirmed.

Just 15 minutes’ walk from the heart of vibrant Mykonos Town, Bill & Coo is your very own luxury hideout away from it all, but close enough that you can join the party (quite literally) whenever you feel like it. The suites are

spectacularly designed for comfort and style, seamlessly blending contemporary clean lines with an almost Indigenous, ethereal finish. My suite had its own jacuzzi and outdoor sunlounge area with pristine ocean views, while other suites feature private infinity pools. Massage sessions and spa treatments, personal trainers and personal assistants as well as private jet and yacht charters can all be arranged upon request.

Absolutely not to be missed is a dinner in the hotel restaurant, indisputably one of the finest on the island. Grab a cocktail in the pool lounge and catch the sunset before treating your senses to a truly exceptional gastronomic experience from award-winning chef Athinagoras Kostakos. I’m not afraid to say his sea urchin risotto was the best entrée I’ve ever tasted. Drenched in luxury, Bill & Coo is a Mykonos

encounter like no other and the ideal destination for lavish island living.

Rates for rooms and suites range from A$750 to A$3000 per night in high season and include breakfast. billandcoo.gr

SERIFOS COCO-MAT ECO RESIDENCES

l STAY HERE FOR: SUSTAINABLE LUXURY

In its previous life, the newly renovated COCO-MAT Eco Residences were a complex of early 1900s miners’ houses. They’ve since been given a spectacular facelift, one that’s been deeply respectful of both the traditional architecture and eco-friendly practice. The roomy two-storey apartments are designed to unify simplicity, sus-

Clockwise from left: Traditional architecture at Coco-Mat Eco Residences; cuisine at Bill & Coo Suites & Lounge; bedroom interiors at Bill & Coo Suites & Lounge.

www.africanuniquesafaris.com/25offLux

Australians dream of Africa from a young age. Exotic animals, cultures and adventures that excite and fire our imaginations. African Unique Safaris and Tours is a unique Australian Owned, but based on the ground safari and tour operator. This means we combine a great mix of western best practise with local hospitality and knowledge. We have a social and environmental conscience and our vision is to create 1000 financially self–dependant families by 2020.

So if you dream of Africa, let us be your experts in the field and work with you to customise and deliver your trip of lifetime, and as we say at African Unique Safaris and Tours, LIVE YOUR DREAMS. www.africanuniquesafaris.com

Contact Michael on 0413 469 895 for personal help in Australia.

OUR PREFERRED 5 STAR ACCOMMODATION PARTNERS:

Marriot Hotel, Kigali Rwanda

Mweya Safari Lodge, Uganda

Ngungwe Forest Lodge, Rwanda Kyaninga Lodge, Uganda Sabinyo Silverback Lodge, Rwanda Trackers Safari Lodge, Uganda

4 Seasons Safari Lodge, Serengeti, Tanzania Essque Zalu Resort, Zanzibar, Tanzania

RWANDA • UGANDA • TANZANIA • CONGO….. AND BEYOND

tainability and elegance, resulting in spaces unlike anything you’ll see elsewhere in the Greek Islands. It’s the ideal spot for a carefree island holiday, in a hotel that cares for the island in return.

With some of the most beautiful beaches in the Cyclades, a surprisingly vibrant food culture and culturally significant historical sites, Serifos is yet to be overrun by tourists, despite its proximity to the mainland. COCO-MAT overlooks one such beautiful beach, Vagia, at the entrance of Koutalas bay. Its protection from the Aegean summer winds gives rise to crystal blue waters, white sandy shores and spectacular sunsets, and earns Vagia a spot in the list of Natura 2000 protected sites.

With a focus on natural materials – linen, silk, stone and wood – an abundance of natural light and a cleverly designed natural air-conditioning system throughout, the spaces in COCO-MAT feel harmoniously in tune with their surroundings. Each apartment offers one or two bedrooms, a lounge area and a fully equipped kitchen stocked with fresh local produce on request. The restaurant serves exclusively fresh fish caught by local fishermen, certified Serifos meat, vegetables grown in local orchards and bread baked daily on site.

Rates for apartments range from €240 (about A$343) per night in the low season to €620 (about A$887) in the high season. serifos.coco-mat-hotels.com

SARONIC ISLANDS SPETSES

POSEIDONION GRAND HOTEL

l STAY HERE FOR: OLD-WORLD ELEGANCE, NEW-WORLD COMFORT

When it originally opened in 1914, the Poseidonion Grand left its mark on the Spetses skyline. It’s cosmopolitan Cote D’Azur-style suites and opulent finishes saw the hotel fast become a favourite amongst wealthy Athenians, well-to-do Greek society and royalty.

The hotel reopened its doors in 2009 after an extensive five-year renovation, which saw the 38 deluxe rooms and suites in the historical wing updated with new facilities and fittings, as well as an entirely new wing added to the property.

The rooms ooze elegance, with a contemporary palette adorned with modern and traditional

l RECOMMENDED READING

CARTES POSTALES FROM GREECE by Victoria

Hislop

Stories within stories that wind their way around the country - charming, thoughtful, wistful and melancholic at times too. Ellie is living in North London where life and work are pretty humdrum but many of her days are brightened when week in, week out postcards pop through her letterbox, addressed not to her but to S Ibbotson, and signed “A". Colourful and varied they chart one person’s progress through the Greek Islands and soon the reader is drawn into a colourful world of life, mythology and good storytelling. tripfiction.com/books/cartes-postales/

furniture referencing the colonial era. Marbled bathrooms, private balconies, spectacular ocean views and superior service make Poseidonion a luxury stay to remember.

Poseidonion was the very first hotel in Greece to offer guests spa services and has kept this tradition alive with an extensive spa, steam and pool area.

The hotel restaurant serves up innovative Asian-inspired cuisine based on ingredients sourced from Poseidonion’s own organic farm, nestled in the Spetzes mountains. The farm produces fresh fruit, vegetables and eggs for the hotel as well as other restaurants on the island. Tours to the farm can be organised on request and make for a very special day out.

Rates for apartments range from €170 (about A$243) per night in the low season to €355 (about A$507) in the high season. poseidonion.com

From above: The restaurant on the verandah at Hotel Poseidonion; the grand staircase at Hotel Poseidonion.

“The rooms ooze elegance, with a contemporary palette adorned with modern and traditional furniture referencing the colonial era”

l

LONDON Your Luxury Guide To...

Eat & Drink.

21–22 Warwick Street, W1B 5NE +44 20 7494 9584, ottolenghi.co.uk/nopi

Mon-Thurs 8am-4pm & 5.3010.30pm, Fri 8am-10.30pm, Sat 10am-10.30pm, Sun 10am-4pm

Famed chef Yotam Ottolenghi, with Noam Bar and Sami Tamimi, opened their first luxe deli in Notting Hill in 2002 – bowls of fresh, delicious salads, raspberry swirled meringues and decadent cakes – and turned take-away fare on its head. NOPI is a rise in the glamour stakes with glimmering, golden brass offset by a cool, white marble interior (the bathrooms, a sometimes confusing but intriguing mirrored maze), but those early Middle Eastern meets

Mediterranean flavours are still here. Upstairs is more formal dining, downstairs a communal table is open all day. Feast on courgette (zucchini) and manouri fritters with cardamom yoghurt, coriander seed–crusted burrata with slices of blood orange and twice-cooked baby chicken with lemon myrtle salt and chilli jam. For dessert, NOPI’s strawberry mess with sumac and rose water has fast become a classic.

l BEST FOR COCKTAIL HOUR DUKES BAR

Dukes Hotel, 35 St James’s Place, SW1A 1NY +44 20 7491 4840, dukeshotel.com

Mon-Sat 2-11pm, Sun 4-10.30pm

I have it on good authority from my martini friends that this is THE place to have a martini in London. It’s said author Ian Fleming took inspiration from a Dukes martini for James Bond’s preference for ‘shaken not stirred’. Tucked away down a cobbled lane off St James’s Street, Dukes Bar is an intimate, old-fashioned affair but worth the

crush for the art of what legendary bartender Alessandro Palazzi takes very seriously. A trolley is wheeled over to your table, where a glass is spritzed with the mere hint of vermouth from what looks like an elegant perfume atomiser; from there on, the rest is tailor-made according to your tastes.

l BEST FOR THE GREEN THUMB CHELSEA PHYSIC GARDEN

66 Royal Hospital Road, SW3 4HS +44 20 7352 5646, chelseaphysicgarden.co.uk Garden only: Mon-Sun 10am-dusk, November-March; garden and cafe: Tues-Fri & Sun 11am-6pm, Apr-Oct

London’s green landscape is enviable for such a large, bustling city, and nothing beats escaping into Chelsea Physic Garden: a teaching and apothecary garden founded in 1673, boasting a unique

living collection of over 5,000 edible, medicinal and historical plants and more than 100 different types of rare and endangered trees. During summer come for lunch over a glass of homemade lemonade or ginger beer at the garden’s Tangerine Dream Café, attached to the Curator’s House (access subject to an entry fee). It boasts vivid, seasonal British and Mediterranean flavours – goat’s cheese tarts, fresh salads of pulses and beans, duck confit, with sumptuous cakes (orange polenta, coffee and walnut) or lavender scones for dessert.

l BEST FOR SWEET TREATS

MAÎTRE CHOUX

15 Harrington Road, SW7 3ES +44 20 3583 4561, maitrechoux.com Mon-Fri 8am–8pm, Sat-Sun 10am-7pm

First it was cupcakes, then macarons, doughnuts and now eclairs – and Maître Choux’s are the prettiest and fanciest you dare ever imagine. Slender couture- worthy eclairs, light choux profiteroles and chouquettes (pearl sugar-crusted little buns) are baked fresh every morning by three Michelin-star, Biarritz-born pastry chef Joakim Prat – and filled with light, luscious flavoured creams, from caramelised banana and intense chocolate to raspberry mousse, then glazed and decorated (with popcorn, roasted pecans, matcha tea) to dazzle the eyes as much as the tastebuds. There are a few seats instore where you can sit and enjoy these sweet treats, teamed with a cup of hot chocolate inspired by a Basque recipe from Joakim’s grandmother, or you can take-away.

HERE IS THE BEST THAT LONDON HAS TO OFFER LUXURY TRAVELLERS RIGHT NOW, ACCORDING TO LONDON GUIDEBOOK AUTHOR FIONA MCCARTHY.

BEST FOR THE FAMISHED NOPI

DUKES BAR NOPI

CHELSEA PHYSIC GARDEN

l BEST FOR SUMPTUOUS SCENTS PERFUMER H

106A Crawford Street, W1H 2HZ +44 20 7258 7859, perfumerh.com

Mon-Sat 10am-6pm

It’s very homely in perfumer Lyn Harris’s atelier (Britain’s only female ‘nose’), a ten-minute walk west of Marylebone High Street. It’s all gorgeous reclaimed wood, velvet and moody hues. Previously behind Miller Harris, Perfumer H is the next stage in Lyn’s olfactory journey. Turning to the UK’s flora, foliage and changing seasons for inspiration, new fragrance ideas might incorporate ivy or marmalade, heliotrope or carrot seed. Seasonal fragrances and scented candles reflect the five scent families (citrus, floral, wood, fern and oriental) and Laboratory Editions allows you to buy a fragrance formula outright (your name registered with it in Provence’s famed perfume town, Grasse). Everything comes in beautiful bottles and vessels handblown by British glassmaker Michael Ruh (personalisation is also available).

l BEST FOR TIMELESS TREASURES BURLINGTON ARCADE

51 Piccadilly, W1J 0QJ +44 20 7493 1764, burlington-arcade.co.uk

There is a wonderful old-world charm to the 19th century Burlington Arcade, originally built to house jewellers and watchmakers. With its curling wrought-iron gates and wood-panelled shopfronts, it will take you from Piccadilly up through to the back of the Royal Academy and on to Bond Street, passing by beautiful cashmere knits at NPeal, dainty macarons at Laduree, and heavenly heels by Manolo Blahnik. There are Maison Michel hats, witty bags, purses and clutches from Lulu Guinness, marvellous marquetry in picture frames, jewellery boxes and candles by Linley (the late Princess Margaret’s son), monogrammed loafers at Crockett & Jones, and antique jewellery dealers Richard Ogden and Michael Foster. It’s also

home to fragrance specialists True Grace, Frederick Malle and Roja Dove. Just around the corner in Burlington Gardens is the recently relocated Pickett, with a cornucopia of rainbow-hued leather goods, jewellery, pashminas, gloves and keepsake boxes.

l BEST FOR LUXE LEATHER GOODS ANYA

HINDMARCH BESPOKE

15–17 Pont Street, SW1X 9EH +44 20 7838 9177, anyahindmarch.com

Mon-Sat 10am-6pm

Anya Hindmarch started in the handbag business at just age 19, with the idea of a rucksack she’d spotted on her gap year in Italy. Today, she’s transformed how we think about our handbags, teaming brilliant organisation (labelled internal pockets or individual carry cases for everything you can think of), with irreverent fun – recent designs have imitated cornflake packets and men at work signs. At

this store, customisation is king – a handwritten message or a child’s doodle can be embossed onto everything from the inside of a bag to luggage tags and jewellery cases by artisans instore. A favourite motto can grace the cover of your diary, a keepsake box can be inlaid with a photograph; there’s a madeto-measure wallet service too. These are heirlooms in the making.

l BEST FOR THE SARTORIAL SHOPPER RELLIK

8 Golborne Road, W10 5NW +44 20 8962 0089, relliklondon.co.uk

Tues-Sat 10am-6pm

Fiona Stuart, Claire Stansfield and Steven Phillip are the trio behind Rellik, one of the fashion world’s key destinations for inspiration. Famed names like uber stylist Katie Grand, designer John Galliano, Bella Freud, Kate Moss, Chloe Sevigny and Kylie Minogue have rifled the rails in this jewel of a shop resting in the shadow of the Trellick Tower. Come here for clothing, accessories and shoes by Comme des Garçons, Yohji Yamamoto and Issey Miyake; vintage Yves Saint Laurent, Alaïa, and Courrèges are highly soughtafter; if you’re lucky to spot a Thea Porter or Ossie Clark, just grab it (these sell in seconds); and there’s always timeless Brit pieces from the likes of Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen.

This is an edited extract from London Precincts by Fiona McCarthy published by Hardie Grant Travel, RRP $39.99. Available in stores nationally. hardiegrant.com.au/travel

JAMIE MCGREGOR SMITH

RELLIK

ANYA HINDMARCH BESPOKE

CITY GUIDE LONDON

Stay & see.

NEWPORT STREET GALLERY

Newport Street Gallery, Newport Street, London SE11 6AJ, +44 20 3141 9320, newportstreetgallery.com

Having just celebrated its first birthday, Damien Hirst’s Newport Street Gallery has been an unexpected, unequivocal hit. The gallery’s popularity can be attributed to a number of factors. Firstly, its impressive 37,000 square feet of six exhibition spaces created from three listed buildings – originally built as scenery painting studios at the turn of the 20th century – and two modern extensions. Secondly, its fantastic exhibitions featuring selections from Hirst’s own extensive art collection (recently Jeff Koons, upcoming Gavin Turk). Thirdly, and perhaps most surprisingly, its quirky location, right alongside a noisy train track out of Victoria Station in the rather rundown area of Vauxhall, south London. It’s also host to Pharmacy 2, a noughties progression on the early nineties’ original Pharmacy in Notting Hill. This reinvention is in partnership with celebrated British chef Mark Hix. Like the original, it features Hirst’s own Medicine Cabinets, as well as his butterfly kaleidoscope paintings. Hirst’s collection has evolved since the late 1980s and now comprises more than 3,000 works including pieces by fellow Young British Artists – or YBAs –like Tracey Emin and Sarah Lucas and iconic artists such as Francis Bacon and Pablo Picasso. Work by young and emerging artists as well natural history specimens, taxidermy, anatomical models and historical artefacts are also part

of Hirst’s extensive collection. On the gallery’s opening, Hirst said “I’ve always loved art and art deserves to be shown in great spaces, so I’ve always dreamed of having my own gallery where I can exhibit work by the artists I love.” Admission to the gallery is free.

WHITE CUBE

White Cube Bermondsey, 144 – 152 Bermondsey Street, London SE1 3TQ

+44 20 7930 5373, whitecube.com

Jay Jopling, in his signature sharpcut suits and thick black-framed glasses, has cut a fine swathe across London’s contemporary art landscape, representing the likes of Hirst, Emin, Lucas and the Chapman brothers, Jake and Dinos, since he opened the first White Cube gallery in St James’s in 1993. After opening a second in Hoxton Square (now closed) in 2000, Jopling took over a massive 1970s 58,000-square-foot building on Bermondsey Street in 2011 and transformed it into one of Europe’s largest galleries with three major exhibition spaces, private viewing rooms, a warehouse, an auditorium and a bookshop. It’s a perfect space for interactive exhibitions that tantalise all the senses from Christian Marclay’s multidiscipline exhibition of music, comic-inspired art, sculpture and video in 2015 through to regular exhibitions by key British artists such as Antony Gormley, Gilbert & George, Harland Miller, Sam Taylor-Johnson (also Jopling’s former wife) and Marc Quinn, who is famous for Self – his selfmodelled head sculpture filled with nine pints of his own frozen blood, and snapped up by businessman

and art mogul Charles Saatchi. Other big-hitting artists on the White Cube roster include Chuck Close and Anselm Kiefer.

Also don’t miss: Gagosian’s three London outposts (Britannia St, WC1; Davies St, W1; and Grosvenor Hill, W1; gagosian.com) – currently enjoying great success with Richard Serra – and Hauser & Wirth (23 Savile Row, W1, hauserandwirth.com).

THE BEAUMONT

The Beaumont, Brown Hart Gardens, London W1 +44 20 7499 1001; thebeaumont.com

Renowned London restaurateurs Jeremy King and Chris Corbin, first famous for A-list favourites The Ivy and Le Caprice in the nineties, now the likes of The Wolseley, The Delauney and Colbert, have brought their unique combination of great service, old-world gentleman’s club style and British warmth to The Beaumont Hotel. Opened in 2014, and located just a stone’s throw from Selfridges but in an oasis of Mayfair quiet, the hotel oozes art deco-elegance and a sense it’s been there forever. In fact, it was created from scratch in what was the old Selfridges carpark

and devised entirely according King’s concoction of a character called Jimmy Beaumont, an American hotelier at the helm of a 1920s London hotel. Art, furniture and objet d’art was hand-picked by King and his interior designer wife, Lauren Gurvich, to emphasise the early 20th-century. The 73-room hotel also boasts a glamorous, glossy hammam spa, the Colony Grill (the omelette Arnold Bennett and chicken pot pie are signature musts), The American Bar (aka Jimmy’s, a perfect pit-stop for martinis and bourbon or whiskey sours) and Antony Gormley’s specially designed ROOM, part sculpture, part cocooning luxury suite. As King told me recently, hotels are the place of dreams –“we want to sweep up our guests off their feet and (help them) lose themselves until the moment they leave.”

Also worth a visit: As featured in London Precincts, The Connaught, Claridge’s, Rosewood London, Edition and the Ham Yard Hotel are well worth a look. Beyond London Precincts’ pages, The Lanesborough, Covent Garden Hotel, Soho Hotel, Haymarket Hotel, Bulgari Hotel, The Langham, and Brown’s Hotel also represent luxurious stays.

ANTONY GORMLEY'S ROOM AT THE BEAUMONT

CITY GUIDE LONDON

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GET THERE

LEISURELY TRAVEL: GET THE LOWDOWN ON LUXURY RIVER CRUISING / BOARD SEADREAM II AND CRUISE THE MEDITERRANEAN / FIND OUT WHICH LUXURY RAIL JOURNEY IS FOR YOU PLUS OUR BUSINESS CLASS FLIGHT REVIEWS

TAKE ME TO THE RIVER

David McGonigal

The idea of taking a cruise without worrying about getting seasick has a lot of appeal, but that’s only one reason why river cruising is booming. There’s also the joy of travelling from city to city without changing rooms, of the never-ending scenery running past your window or balcony, of being part of life on the river.

As river cruising has boomed there’s been rapid proliferation in cruise vessels. Europe alone welcomed more than 20 new vessels between March and July this year. But while ocean-going ships are becoming bigger and bigger, the constraints of rivers and bridges restrict the size of river vessels. Since every company faces the same restrictions, the difference between one company and another may be less pronounced than at sea.

One benefit is that there are no inside cabins so everyone has a view but a disadvantage is that the wider the outside balcony the narrower the cabin. This has necessitated considerable ingenuity in design to make the most of the space available. Some companies have gone for larger rooms and fewer guests, others have created distinct personalities for each vessel and others offer features and facilities beyond your bedroom.

That’s not to say that river vessels offer small cabins or suites: it’s a very competitive market and, on average, the typical river cabin may be the same size – or larger – than a ship’s cabin. However, it’s impossible to match an expansive suite on the most luxurious seagoing vessel – Regent Seven Seas Explorer’s Regent Suite is 413 square metres – on board a river vessel that has to squeeze into a lock.

EXPLAINS THE APPEAL OF RIVER CRUISING AND WHAT’S ON OFFER FROM SOME OF THE PREMIUM OPERATORS.

Then there’s height. River vessels must fit under bridges – some of which may have been built centuries ago – so there’s more creativity required to ensure the furniture and canopies on the top deck can fold flat to make the most of every centimetre.

Europe is perfectly suited to river cruising – many cities began as river ports – and is definitely the area with the greatest concentration of river-cruise vessels. But there are river cruises on five other continents from South America’s upper Amazon, North America’s Mississippi and Columbia rivers, the Nile, Chobe and Zambezi in Africa, Australia’s Murray and several rivers across Asia.

APT

In this year’s Berlitz ‘River Cruising in Europe’ guide, all of the Top 10 vessels of the 310 ranked represented APT or its partner AmaWaterways. The company’s vessels have always been clever in design and its Concerto class features suites that consist of a French balcony and a separate outside balcony. There are 18 vessels in the European fleet and APT also operates river cruises in the USA, Africa, South America and across Asia.

Food is a high priority and APT has recreated its Chef’s Table Restaurant as a true tasting-menu experience. The company has also partnered with action travel company Backroads to offer hiking and cycling excursions. aptouring.com.au

AVALON WATERWAYS

In its panoramic suites, Avalon has turned the beds to face the window – a glass wall that opens

to a French balcony – so you really do feel as if you’re floating on the river. Meanwhile, Avalon will introduce Avalon Fresh in 2017 with an emphasis on local ingredients from small producers.

Avalon offers cruises across Asia and on the Amazon, and a range of themed cruises in Europe. Next year, the Avalon Luminary will run a nine-day Active Discovery voyage on the upper Danube that includes cycling, guided hikes, canoeing and more.

avalonwaterways.com.au

CRYSTAL CRUISES

There was a new operator on the Danube this year – Crystal has moved into river cruising. The Crystal Mozart is a completely refurbished vessel that now carries 52 fewer passengers than in its previous iteration. There are four more vessels being built to operate on the Danube, Main and Rhine rivers by 2018. All carry just 106 passengers so there’s space for walk-in wardrobes and river-view beds.

In one of the onboard restaurants there will be a dedicated space for daily cooking classes and, as well as hiking and biking, Crystal offers more adventurous activities like sightseeing via helicopter.

crystalcruises.com

SCENIC

Scenic’s 16 river cruise ships operate across Asia and in Europe as far as Russia. Two of its vessels based in France are being redesigned to better satisfy cruisers’ luxury needs. The number of cabins on both the Scenic Diamond and Scenic Sapphire has been reduced to create

AQUA MEKONG

ARIA AMAZON

AVALON WATERWAYS

AVALON WATERWAYS

SCENIC SPIRIT

two large Royal Owner’s Suites, a vitality pool and an expanded wellness centre. There are up to six dining options from casual to formal degustation.

Both vessels provide onboard cooking classes in a dedicated space featuring cooking stations and a cheese and wine cellar. While the redesigns are starting in France, the development may extend throughout the fleet. scenic.com.au

TAUCK

From just four European river vessels in 2014, Tauck now has nine. They operate on the Rhine, Rhone, Seine and Danube. The new MS Joy offers a range of suites including some loft cabins that extend over two decks.

Tauck prides itself on offering special cultural experiences and that’s true for its cruises, too, from a private tour of the Baroque libraries of Prague to an imperial evening in Vienna. As well as some themed cruises, Tauck offers a range of family cruises perfect for multi-generational holidays. tauck.com.au

Image: © Benjamin Vergély - Instantané Monaco.

From top: The pool deck on Scenic Spirit; a Tauck vessel on course.

UNIWORLD

Uniworld has recently been judged the World’s Best River Cruise Line by Travel + Leisure magazine. There are 21 vessels in the fleet and they operate in Europe and Asia.

The company has teamed up with Butterfield & Robinson to offer some great outdoor excursions from biking along the Danube to kayaking in France.

Uniworld doesn’t have standardised décor for its vessels, viewing them rather as floating boutique hotels. uniworld.com

VIKING

Viking reassessed the way it used space when it created its Viking Longships in 2012; vessels that, as the name suggests, utilise Scandinavian décor. More public space was found by removing the under-utilised gym and massage room. Now 46 of the 65 vessels in the fleet are Longships.

Viking operates throughout Europe and Asia. Each voyage offers an in-depth cultural enrichment program to bring the destination to life through music, history, art and food. It has expanded its food and wine program with Taste Of events that extend from food-based excursions to cooking classes and on-board demonstrations.

vikingrivercruises.com.au

See more images from this story at luxurytravelmag.com.au

ASIAN OFFERINGS

There are some river cruise companies that operate solely in Asia and these are worth seeking out. This is particularly true for the increasingly crowded Irrawaddy and other rivers of Myanmar. Pandaw is a partial recreation of what was once the largest shipping line in the world, the Irrawaddy Steamship Company (ISC). ISC vessels were scuttled to stop them being used by Japanese troops during World War II. One – the Pandaw – survived and was the model for the new fleet. The quest for authenticity ensures these vessels don’t have every modern amenity but the level of service is first class. The fleet has now diversified to other rivers across Asia.

The Strand is a legendary and recently renovated colonial hotel of Yangon, Myanmar. The hotel has now expanded into river cruising with a vessel of the same name that offers a similar level of luxury on the Irrawaddy. The Strand joins Belmond Road to Mandalay, the long-running luxurious sister vessel to the world’s most exotic rail journeys, including the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express. Sanctuary Retreats operates the only all-balcony vessel on the Irrawaddy: the Sanctuary Ananda

This article is the first in our three-part series on unpacking luxury cruising, where we explore the differences between luxury and premium operators in the River, Ocean and Expedition categories. Look out for the next article in our Autumn 2017 issue.

From top: The opulent interiors on Uniworld's River Empress; The Strand's Deluxe Cabin.

VIKING RIVER CRUISES

LIFE IS BUT A DREAM

SEADREAM’S LUXURY CRUISING YACHTS OFFER EVERYTHING THE LARGE LINERS PROVIDE, BUT ON AN INTIMATE SCALE, WRITES Gary Allen

We wake up to the sun shining brightly over our view across a calm Mediterranean. It’s a beautiful bluesky day and yoga starts in 20 minutes, enough time to grab a cup of coffee up on deck. Afterwards, we take in a leisurely breakfast before the SeaDream II pulls into port for the day. It’s become our routine, our ritual, on our cruise with the SeaDream Yacht Club.

Named Best Luxury Small Cruise Ship of 2015 by Forbes – the latest of a string of

awards since launching in 2001 – the Norwegian cruise line runs two luxury craft in this class, the SeaDream I and II. And they are both all class. Built in the 1980s, the SeaDreams are sumptuously appointed and the scale is more like an intimate private club. The craft are able to dock at ports rather than moor offshore in deeper waters so there’s no queuing to get off or waiting to load onto a tender to go onshore. In fact, there’s no queuing for meals or anything else. The craft accommodates a maximum of 112 passengers and 95 crew, and there

“Docking in town means you always have the option to retreat back to the ship for lunch, a break, or just some (more) rest and relaxation. The convenience is one of the best features of the cruise”

DECK SUNBEDS

is always plenty of room.

SeaDream offer cruises in the Caribbean, the Mediterranean and the Atlantic with durations ranging between seven and 14 nights. Ours is a Spanish cruise that begins in Malaga, on the famed Costa del Sol. We cruise up the Mediterranean coast stopping in Cartagena en route to Valencia, then out to the Balearic Islands and the jet-set islands of Ibiza and Mallorca, as well the tranquil island of Menorca, before finishing in Barcelona.

SeaDream’s motto is “yachting, not cruising”. Every morning, we pull into a new port, with most of the day to explore. Docking in town means you always have the option to retreat back to the ship for lunch, a break, or just some (more) rest and relaxation. The convenience is one of the best features of the cruise.

Friends are made quickly on the first night

as guests gather in the piano bar and lounge. Before long the karaoke and conviviality is in full swing. And if singing off-key is not your thing, there’s always the quiet retreat of the blackjack table. SeaDream claims it is the smallest casino at sea.

Food can make or break a trip and goes hand in hand with the standard of service in determining the enjoyment you get from your holiday. On the SeaDream we saw expert chefs lovingly prepare all manner of culinary delights, paired with wines of distinction, and all dispatched by staff who care enough to make it personal, to find out what *you* want and just how *you* like it: “The usual, Mr Allen?” SeaDream staff always went above and beyond and were a big part of what we loved about this cruise experience.

SeaDream’s “Signature” dining experience is

“Expert chefs lovingly prepare all manner of culinary delights, paired with wines of distinction, and dispatched by staff who care enough to make it personal”

Clockwise from top left: The library onboard; delicately presented dessert; the Admiral Suite.

prepared à la minute and served al fresco at the Topside Restaurant or in the stylish Dining Salon. Menus include a raw organic food selection, where none of the fresh ingredients is heated above 48 degrees.

Once you’ve settled on board, head straight to the concierge and book a night to “Sleep under the Stars”. Staff make up a bed at the bow of the ship and, roped off for privacy, it’s all yours for the night. Pray for a cloudless sky, but don’t worry, your luxury cabin is right below should the weather turn. Suites and staterooms are superbly appointed and come with flat screen TVs, iPhone docking stations, Nespresso coffee machines and 24-hour room service. Your fare includes all meals and gratuities.

In most ports, a guided bicycle ride is offered for those guests eager for early exercise. We took rides at every opportunity as it was a great way to get the sea legs moving and familiarise ourselves with the new port of call. The ship’s bikes are also available anytime you like but numbers are limited on the guided rides, so sign up early.

Weather depending, other activities on board include watersports like kayaks, snorkelling, water skiing, swim platform, and a floating island. There’s also a wellequipped gym and the SeaDream Spa, which the owners boast is the only Thai-certified spa service at sea.

See more images from this story at luxurytravelmag.com.au

THE CRUISE

Prices vary according to season and itinerary. For a typical late summer, seven-day Mediterranean cruise, brochure prices start at around US$8,400 (about A$11,030) per person, dual occupancy, in a Yacht Club Deck 2 Stateroom, plus port and handling charges of US$427 (about A$560). For the same cruise in the premium Admiral’s Suite expect to pay a brochure price of around US$20,250 (about A$26,580).

SeaDream has special offers on an ad-hoc basis which can represent a large discount on the brochure price. For more information on SeaDream itineraries and fares visit seadream.com

Clockwise from top left: Dessert extravaganza on board; an off-board cycling excursion; morning Thai Chi on the deck.

MAJESTIC DESIGN FOR OCEANLINER

Princess Cruises has unveiled the design of its forthcoming luxury oceanliner, Majestic Princess. Features include the use of European marble, mosaic tiled floors, polished wood, plush fabrics and custom-designed carpets. Other highlights include private balconies for 80 per cent of the ship’s staterooms; a signature SeaWalk glass floor walkway; and two new specialty restaurants including Harmony, serving classic Cantonese cuisine by chef Richard Chen (who earned a Michelin star for Wing Lei restaurant in Las Vegas), and Le Bistrot, offering casual French-bistro dining. An atrium will be surrounded by luxury boutiques like Cartier, Bulgari and Gucci. Majestic Princess will embark on her first voyage on 4 April 2017, with a five-day Adriatic Sea cruise visiting Rome, Kotor and Corfu. princess.com

MUSIC EXPERIENCE MUSIC TO SEABOURN EARS

Luxury cruise line

Seabourn will debut an exclusive experience in 2017 with renowned musical theatre lyricist

Tim Rice. Aboard the luxury cruise line’s newest ship, Seabourn Encore, ‘An Evening with Tim Rice’ will consist of a concert-style presentation narrated by the artist, with a cast of singers and live musicians giving the audience a taste of some of his best-known work. Rice has worked on numerous musical productions including Aladdin; Beauty and the Beast; and The Lion King with Elton John, and Evita with Andrew Lloyd Webber. His accolades include three Oscars, three Tonys, and three Golden Globes. Following the event during Encore’s maiden sailing in Australia, Rice will make a select number of appearances on every Seabourn ship. seabourn.com

ON THE RIGHT TRACK

MAHARAJAS EXPRESS, HERITAGE OF INDIA, MUMBAI TO DELHI

A lustrous red carpet is rolled out for passengers as they board the Maharajas Express and the platform at nearly every stop along the journey is embellished with garlands and live musicians. Modelled on the private saloon cars of age-old Maharajas, this opulent burgundy sleeper train, which launched in 2010 and has been accumulating travel awards ever since, is one of India’s most luxurious modes of slow travel.

Its iconic Heritage of India journey takes travellers from Mumbai to Delhi, stopping at the country’s most distinguished sites, from the prehistoric cave paintings of Ajanta, to the palaces of Rajasthan and the resplendent Taj Mahal.

Rates for the Deluxe Cabin start at US$6,840 (about A$8947) per person twin share, making it about A$1,118 per day. The Presidential Suite is the highest level of accommodation on this eight-day, seven-night journey and will set travellers back US$23,700 (about A$31,150), which works out at about A$3893 per night. At 43.1 square metres, the suite spans an entire carriage and features two bedrooms, a private living area, a dining room and an ensuite with a bathtub.

On board, the Maharajas Express’s two restaurants serve a range of cuisines including authentic Indian and international dishes. The chefs aboard the train are accommodating of dietary requirements and will add as much or as little spice as you like.

This all-inclusive fare provides travellers with a personal butler service, all meals and housebrand beverages, and guided off-train tours as included in the itinerary.

maharajas-express-india.com

KATIE MILTON

BELMOND, EASTERN AND ORIENTAL EXPRESS, SINGAPORE TO BANGKOK

The Belmond Eastern and Oriental Express was originally built in Japan in 1972 and spent its early life operating on New Zealand railways. Since being purchased by luxury travel company Belmond, the 22-carriage train has operated through Southeast Asia, and is renowned for its classic three-day journey between Singapore and Bangkok.

TAKING AN ICONIC RAIL JOURNEY IS SOMETHING MOST LUXURY TRAVELLERS WILL DO AT LEAST ONCE IN A LIFETIME, BUT WHICH TO CHOOSE? Katie Milton AND Belinda Craigie SURVEY THE FOOD, ACCOMMODATION, ATMOSPHERE AND COST OF FIVE OF THE WORLD’S MOST OPULENT RAIL JOURNEYS.

Refurbished with wood-panelled interiors, hand-tufted carpets sourced from local Thai rug makers, and elegant furnishings, the on-board carriages include an Observation Car, Saloon Car with a reading room, and Piano Bar livened with a resident pianist and local entertainment on select evenings.

Rates for the journey starts at  US$2820 (about A$3714) per person, around A$1238 per day. Occupying half a train car, the Presidential Cabin measures 11.6 square metres and features an expanded bathroom, wardrobe and complimentary bar. The carriage functions as a private lounge throughout the day and at night the seating is converted into two single beds. Rates for the Presidential Suite start at  US$6530 (about A$8601) per person, twin share, equating to about A$2867 per day.

A simple continental breakfast of yoghurt, pastries, cereal and fruit is served in the cabin each morning, and tea in the afternoons. Lunches and dinners, served in the two restaurant cars, are much grander affairs. Headed by Executive Chef Yannis Martineau, whose food philosophy is shaped by the exotic flavours of Southeast Asia, the menu on board is a fusion of Eastern and Western cuisine and is intended to mirror the scenic vistas along the journey.

While all meals and itinerary excursions are included in the fare, wines and bar drinks are at an additional cost. belmond.com/eastern-and-oriental-express/

BELMOND, VENICE SIMPLON-ORIENT-EXPRESS, PARIS TO ISTANBUL

Belmond’s Venice Simplon-Orient-Express is the most luxurious way to see Europe’s locales by rail. The train’s carriages were purchased in 1977 and restored for launch in 1982. Each original 1920s car has been created to have its own character, but all have the feel of glamorous 1920s luxury, with lacquered wood and vintage fabrics. Twin berths can be transformed to banquette seating for daytime viewing of the varied European landscapes passing by.

The train’s three restaurant cars are a glitzy affair, with white linen tablecloths, fresh flowers and polished silver cutlery as well as an evening dress code for patrons (minimum jacket and tie for men, with the equivalent for women) – tuxedo dress is encouraged. A Champagne Bar serves a selection of vintages in Lalique glassware or passengers can retreat to the melodic Bar Car ‘3674’ which has a resident pianist to set the mood for aperitifs or nightcaps.

The Venice Simplon's most famous journey is the fivenight Paris to Istanbul route that only travels once per year. Starting from £12,250 (about A$19,470) per person, twin share (about A$3894 per day), the trip makes stops in Hungary, Romania and Bulgaria, before arriving in Istanbul, Turkey. Belmond can also include tailor-made experiences at each city stop on the journey, with options like a trip to the Szechenyi Baths in Budapest, or a cruise on the Bosphorus in Istanbul.

“Belmond’s Venice SimplonOrient-Express is the most luxurious way to see Europe’s locales by rail”

DINING ON THE MAHARAJAS EXPRESS

EASTERN ORIENTAL EXPRESS CABIN

Guests take continental breakfasts in their cabin and indulgent multi-course meals are served in the luxurious restaurant cabins at lunch and dinner. Executive Chef Christian Bodiguel and his team, collecting fresh ingredients from stops along the journey, present a menu featuring rich delicacies like lobster and saltmarsh lamb, and the finest cheeses and chutneys. The fare is inclusive of all meals but not drinks.

The vintage nature of the train means there are no showers on board. Guest cabins feature washbasins and overnight hotel accommodation along the way incurs an extra cost, bar one night included in Budapest. The other nights are spent on the train.

The Venice Simplon journey from Paris to Istanbul departs 25 August 2017. belmond.com/venice-simplon-orient-express

BELINDA CRAIGIE

GREAT SOUTHERN RAIL, THE GHAN, DARWIN TO ADELAIDE

A long-time favourite of  Luxury Travel  magazine readers, this iconic Australian journey is operated by Great Southern Rail and has featured prominently in our Gold List awards over the years as winner of the Best Luxury Rail Journey category. The train today journeys between Adelaide, South Australia and Darwin, Northern Territory, traversing some 2979 kilometres of Australia’s heartland over three nights and four days.

Among the offerings, a Nitmiluk Gorge boat cruise in the Northern Territory not only shows off the stunning rocky ridges of the Katherine, but also allows passengers to experience Indigenous traditions with an expert guide – from creating an Indigenous painting, to using a  woomera (a traditional Aboriginal spear-throwing device), and passengers can explore the Alice Springs Desert Park. Adventurous travellers can choose upgrades like a helicopter flights over Alice Springs or the Nitmiluk Gorge, a camel ride in Alice Springs, or a fixed-wing flight over Uluru and Kata Tjuta.

As for the train itself, guests can retreat to a luxurious and refreshing cabin with five-star touches, like a turndown service in the evening. Platinum or Gold Class fares are all-inclusive of food and beverages, with fully cooked breakfasts, two-course lunches and three-course dinners in the Queen Adelaide Restaurant car.

A Platinum fare in the high season will cost around A$3699 per person, one-way (twin share), working out to about A$1233 per day.

Paying Platinum means you’ll be staying in a cabin that measures almost twice the size of a Gold Twin Cabin, transforming to a deluxe private lounge by day and a bedroom at night with a double or twin beds. A full-size ensuite with shower, transfers at the start and end of the journey, freshly prepared continental in-cabin breakfasts

From top: The opulent bar aboard Belmond's Venice Simplon-Orient-Express; The Ghan passing through the MacDonnell Ranges; Sleeping quarters on the VeniceSimplon-Orient-Express.

and a 90-kilogram luggage allowance per guest are some of the Platinum benefits. Access to the recently introduced Platinum Club carriage with a daytime lounge, deco-style bar, and dining area serving five-course breakfasts, lunches and dinners, is another plus. greatsouthernrail.com.au/trains/the_ghan

GOLDEN EAGLE LUXURY TRAINS, TRANSSIBERIAN EXPRESS, MOSCOW TO VLADIVOSTOK

This year marks the 100th anniversary of the TransSiberian Railway, which, at a length of 9288 kilometres is the world’s longest railway journey. Golden Eagle Luxury Trains is well renowned for their opulent eastbound 15-day itinerary from Moscow to Vladivostok.

Embodying Imperial Russian grandeur, the 25-car steam locomotive is outfitted with plush seating and ornamental details with the showpiece of the train the Bar Lounge Car. By day the lounge hosts guest activities such as Russian language lessons and local history lectures and by night it transforms into a sophisticated bar with a resident pianist. An informal dress code is encouraged throughout the journey creating a blithe atmosphere on-board.

A buffet breakfast each morning is provided in the restaurant car with the option for hot food cooked to order. Gastronomic lunches and dinners served on board feature local ingredients and range from inter-

national cuisine to Russian delicacies such as black sturgeon and red Pacific salmon caviar.

Rates for the journey start at US$15,895 (about A$20,789) per person, which works out to about A$1385 per day. The Imperial Suites are the highest tier of luxury accommodation on board, measuring 11.1 square metres, and start at US$30,995 (about A$40,538) per person, about A$2702 per day. This is the only cabin to house a large double bed as well as a lounge area with a dressing table, small library and complimentary laundry service. Complimentary Dom Perignon is also served to those staying in Imperial Suites when they board the train.

The all-inclusive fare features an extensive and flexible off-train itinerary such as private viewings of the tsars in the Armoury Chamber in Moscow, tours of the Old Believers Village in Ulan Ude and overnight stays in five-star hotels. The Imperial rate is inclusive of a private guide and car service at most stops along the route as well as drinks in the Bar Lounge Car, which comes at an extra cost to both Gold and Silver passengers.  goldeneagleluxurytrains.com/journeys/trans-siberian-express/

“Gastronomic lunches and dinners served on board feature local ingredients and range from international cuisine to Russian delicacies such as black sturgeon and red Pacific salmon caviar”

TRANS-SIBERIAN EXPRESS

TRANS-SIBERIAN BAR LOUNGE CAR

TRANS-SIBERIAN CUISINE

RAIL ART BELMOND LAUNCHES ON-BOARD ART COLLECTION

Guests travelling aboard the Belmond Grand Hibernian will now have more than the scenery to admire with the launch of the luxury rail company’s first on-board art collection. Occupying the walls of Ireland’s only luxury sleeper train, Inspirations of Ireland has been curated by Belfast-born international art consultant Katie Kennedy Perez. The collection

features a range of watercolours, oil paintings and photographs by emerging and established Irish artists that illustrate the landscape traversed on the overnight rail journeys. Each artist’s work has been assigned to its own carriage, displayed either in the ensuite cabins or publicly in the dining car.

belmond.com/grandhibernian

From left: Amelia Stein's black and white photographs; vibrant images of native flora by Samuel Laurence Cunnane.

HIGH FLYER

WE SHOW YOU HOW TO FLY FLAT ON POINTS + HIGH FLYER AIRLINE AND LOUNGE REVIEWS OF JAPAN AIRLINES, TURKISH AIRLINES & CATHAY PACIFIC + ALL THE LATEST NEWS ON PREMIUM AIRLINE OFFERINGS

NEW STANDARD FOR QANTAS AT BRISBANE

Anew Qantas international lounge has opened for travellers at Brisbane Airport; the first of several new Qantas facilities to be unveiled at the airport over the coming months. Mirroring the design of lounges at Hong Kong and Singapore airports, the lounge is split across two levels and offers around 25 per cent more space than the previous lounges. Interiors have been designed to reflect Queensland’s tropical attractions with a colour palette reflecting the reef, sandbars and waterways of the region’s coast. A new breakfast menu, designed by Qantas chef Neil Perry and inspired by his renowned restaurant Rockpool, offers breakfast bowls, bircher muesli and French toast, with a hot and cold buffet also available. A new lounge concept called Quench serves a range of non-alcoholic beverages including a signature tisane blend by Rockpool. A bar serving premium wine and beer is also available. Qantas has also scheduled a new domestic lounge precinct with a Business Lounge and refreshed Qantas Club and Valet experience, to open in 2017. The Qantas Brisbane International Lounge is open to Qantas customers travelling in Business, eligible Frequent Flyers and oneworld members. qantas.com

LATAM GOES LOCAL WITH FOOD AND WINE

LATAM Airlines has launched new, regionally inspired menus and wine lists for passengers travelling in Premium Business and Premium Economy on its international routes. The menu incorporates local ingredients from the countries in which LATAM operates; for instance salmon, seabass, oysters, Patagonian crab, quinoa, flat iron steak and beef shoulder on its flights departing Chile, Argentina, and Rio de Janeiro. The airline’s new wine list was curated with consultant Héctor Vergara, the only master sommelier in Latin America, and features wines exclusively from Chilean and Argentinean producers. The new menu and wine list are available in the Premium Business cabin on LATAM’s international flights operated on Boeing 787, 767, 777 and Airbus A350 aircraft. latam.com

DELTA PREPARING FOR NEW DESIGNS

D

A380S ON BOARD FOR EMIRATES

Emirates has launched A380s on its daily services between Dubai and Christchurch, stopping in Sydney. The new service means Sydney-based travellers have a wider choice of routings and timings on A380 flights, with two daily Emirates A380 services already in operation, plus partner airline Qantas’s A380 service to Dubai. Emirates now operates four daily flights from Australia to New Zealand, with the new flight from Sydney to Christchurch joining daily flights from Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane to Auckland. All of Emirates’ three flights to Sydney are now operated by an A380, which features the airline’s luxurious first-class suites and on-board shower spa. emirates.com

Etihad Airways has received the Skytrax Certified 5-Star Airline Rating, recognising quality performance across the board.

STAR ALLIANCE

B

AMENITY

KITS GET YOUR KIT OFF ETIHAD

SKYTEAM

MORE FLAT BEDS FOR SINGAPORE

FREQUENT FLYER PROGRAMS

Each issue we flight test airline loyalty programs on a specified route, flying business class on points. This issue, we examine the best way to travel from Sydney to Fiji and lie flat using points. We compare the frequent flyer points needed on several airline loyalty programs.

Fly flat with our points comparison SYDNEY TO FIJI / BUSINESS CLASS (ONE-WAY)

Note1: Tabua Club does not earn points. An upgrade is granted after 8 international one-way trips with Fiji Airways.

Note2: Qantas codeshares with Fiji Airways and Jetstar (they do not operate themselves). Statistics are for flights with JQ or FJ.

Provided by Steve Hui, The Points Whisperer, CEO of iFLYFLAT.com.au. Use points to fly business class at less than half price.

PRIVATE SKIES

ON YOUR MARK, JET SET

Prestigious hotel group, Oetker Collection, has announced a private jet tour for guests visiting its hotels in Europe. The 12-day European Odyssey tour will take in the region’s art, history and epicurean indulgences, with guests transported by a Legacy 600 private jet to The Lanesborough, London; Brenners Park-Hotel & Spa in Baden-Baden, Germany; Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc, Cap d’Antibes, France; and Hotel Le Bristol, Paris. Bespoke experiences en route include a helicopter excursion to Stonehenge, a trip to the Picasso exhibition at Château Grimaldi, a visit to Château La Coste winery in Aix-en-Provence, and personalised shopping appointments at the ateliers of Hermès and Berlutti. The first journey departs 22 April 2017 and is priced from €68,500 (about A$98,985) per person, twin share, all-inclusive. oetkercollection.com

NEW JET CRYSTAL CRUISES SET TO SOAR

Crystal Cruises is taking its cruising experience to new heights with the introduction of a new Boeing 777-200LR as part of its Crystal AirCruises venture. Scheduled for 2017, the jet will take 84 guests on various itineraries (to be announced) to destinations around the world. Currently undergoing renovations, the jet will have flat-bed seats, large flat-screen TVs, butler and concierge services, and premium cuisine prepared by a dedicated chef. crystalcruises.com

AIRLINE: JAPAN AIRLINES

FLIGHT NUMBER: JAL772

AIRCRAFT: 777-300ER

ROUTE: SYDNEY TO TOKYO

SEATING: BUSINESS CLASS

FLIGHT TIME: 9 HOURS, 35 MINUTES

SKYTRAX AIRLINE STAR RATING: 4 STARS

REVIEW: GARY ALLEN

THE CABIN

The JAL SkySuite seats were set in a 2-3-2 configuration. The clothupholstered seats are in a cubicle with a drop-down privacy screen. If you are seated in the middle, seat storage is behind you on top of the seat and access to and from the aisles without disturbing fellow passengers is easy. The seats are comfortable enough and come with a large, firm pillow for back support. The provided blankets were very thin so I was glad I had some extra clothing to sleep in.

CHECKING IN

We arrived early for an early morning flight so checking in was easy – no queue! It was a full flight so we weren’t offered an option to change our seats but the attendant was pleasant, enquiring about our travels and whether or not it was our first time travelling to Japan.

LOUNGE

Travellers on JAL Business Class can access the Qantas Business lounge at Sydney International Airport. On our return from Tokyo we visited JAL's Sakura lounge, which was very nice. It was large and roomy with food upstairs in a separate area (meaning no leftovers and dishes to be cleaned up from the comfortable seating area). The food options were plentiful with great Japanese dishes and treats. Asahi draft beer was a nice addition.

THE SERVICE

Flight attendants were very polite and always smiling, dressed in smart uniforms. I was offered a comfortable cardigan, which was nice to put on after take-off.

MEALS

We were offered the usual (for business class) champagne and orange juice before take off. JAL’s dining option is presented under the moniker of “BEDD” (which represents bed, dining, delicious and dream), and described as an inflight auberge (restaurant or inn).

Both Japanese and Western dishes are available for the main meal, so you could choose from the likes of pumpkin with a snowcrab salad for sakizuke (appetiser) and yuzu miso grilled snapper for something more substantial, or scallops with marinated vegetables and roast chicken rolled with prosciutto. There is also an ‘anytime you wish’ menu of light meals and noodles.

The beverage options, curated by Fumiko Arisaka, a leading Japanese wine journalist, include wines and champagnes as well as top-of-therange sakés and shōchūs (a distilled Japanese spirit). Food and beverage options like this is one of the reasons I often choose to fly with my destination’s national carrier – dining on Japanese cuisine (and saké) en route is a nice way to ease yourself in to the culture.

SPACE

The amount of space was fairly typical – it didn’t feel tight and there was plenty of room in the aisles.

AMENITIES KIT

The amenities kit is by luggage maker Zero Halliburton and included earplugs, a toothbrush, an eye mask and a lip balm by Institut Karité.

PYJAMAS OR NOT

There were no pyjamas offered on this flight.

ENTERTAINMENT

The business class TV screens were nice and large. I felt the variety of movies and television programs was fairly limited, but adequate to get through the flight. There is in-flight WiFi for a fee, from $10.15 for one hour to $18.80 for 24 hours. It’s complimentary for first class travellers.

QUALITY OF HEADPHONES

We were offered Sony noisecancelling headphones for the

flight, which were very comfortable, and there was a place to hang them when not in use in the compartment provided.

BATHROOM

The bathroom was very small, but well maintained throughout the flight (though there wasn’t much provided in terms of amenities).

BAGGAGE

There’s a 32-kilogram allowance for checked luggage.

LOYALTY PROGRAM

JAL Mileage Bank is the airline’s loyalty club, with points redeemable on flights, shopping…the usual. You can also join as a family group in JAL Family Club, allowing you to pool points. JAL is also part of the Oneworld alliance.

THE GRIPES

The amenities kit seemed to be just about as basic as can be. There was nothing special and I left it all behind.

jal.com

SAKURA LOUNGE

THE CABIN

Seats were in a 2-2-2 configuration. They were roomy and comfortable. There were not enough storage pockets for me, but it was adequate.

CHECKING IN

With a five-hour layover before our Turkish Airlines flight, we were able to use the early business check-in. This comfortable lounge located just past the check-in counter was friendly and efficient. The process was very fast and very easy and there was a separate exit through security.

THE SERVICE

Turkish Airlines staff provided some of the best and most attentive service I have experienced in business class. Once in the air, there was a flurry of activity from all of the flight attendants getting things sorted. The ratio of attendants to passengers is quite high –you only have to glance up and there is someone there to help. There is also a counter at the front of the business class section where the flight attendants often stand and prepare foods and snacks – unlike other airlines

AIRLINE: TURKISH AIRLINES

FLIGHT NUMBER: TK9301

AIRCRAFT: 330-200/300

ROUTE: SINGAPORE TO ISTANBUL

SEATING: BUSINESS CLASS

FLIGHT TIME : 11 HOURS, 10 MINUTES

SKYTRAX AIRLINE STAR RATING: 4 STARS

REVIEWED BY: GARY ALLEN

where the attendants are often out of sight.

MEALS

Meals were very impressive. The chef, in his chef whites, takes your order, answering any questions you may have about the choices. The meals are served on porcelain dishes and included a meze platter, traditional Turkish lentil soup, a choice of three mains, and a dessert trolley featuring Turkish desserts, cakes, ice cream, fruit and cheese.

Battery operated tea light candles on the meal trays and around the cabin add a lovely touch. They completely change the mood and allow you to almost forget you’re on a long-haul flight. It’s Turkish delight by candlelight.

SPACE

The cabin feels spacious and walking around the aisles is easy. There was enough room to walk by the service carts if needed as they were more like trolleys than big carts

AMENITIES KIT

A black Jaquar tablet case holds your amenities and also contains a pencil case and soft pouch full of the necessary toiletries. Both my partner and I are enjoying the case for our iPads.

PYJAMAS OR NOT

There were no pyjamas provided on this flight.

ENTERTAINMENT

There was a large screen at close

to 40cm to watch an assortment of movies and TV shows, and over 600 albums to listen to on the noise-blocking headphones. The remote is a state-of-the-art touch screen making it easy to make selections. There was also complimentary WiFi

QUALITY OF HEADPHONES

The noise-cancelling headphones were large and comfortable.

BATHROOM

The bathroom was clean and tidy throughout the flight

BAGGAGE

In business class, adult passengers have a 30kg baggage allowance

LOYALTY PROGRAM

The loyalty program is called Miles&Smiles. You can also earn miles through other Star Alliance member airlines.

GRIPES

Though there was plenty of storage on the floor in front, I would have liked a bit more next to me within easy reach. If flying solo, you may like more privacy between you and your neighbour. turkishairlines.com

THE DESSERT TROLLEY SEATING IN BUSINESS CLASS

AIRLINE: TURKISH AIRLINES

LOUNGE CLASS: BUSINESS

AIRPORT: ATATURK INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

REVIEWED BY: GARY ALLEN

SERVICE WITH A SMILE

The very friendly lounge staff greet you as you walk through the door. All you need to do is scan your boarding pass at the turnstile and in you go.

LOUNGE AMBIANCE

The two-storey Turkish Airlines Departures Lounge is beautiful and inviting. On entry, your first view is of a library room with big chairs and a pool table. Immediately to the right is a storage room with individual compartments to lock your things away. The spacious lounge is accented by large plants and big rounded archways. It’s light and bright with collection of different chairs and tables on wooden floors. Plenty of natural light filters in and, with its high ceilings, the lounge has a nice open feeling. At nearly 6000 square metres, the lounge is spacious with

a capacity for more than 1000 guests at one time.

READING MATERIALS AND ENTERTAINMENT

You couldn’t get bored here if you wanted to. There is a movie theatre, state-of-the-art simulated golf, a slot-car track, video games, a pool table, and extensive reading material in the library. There’s also a media wall of television screens playing channels from around the globe, with headsets provided so you can tune in.

CONNECT ME

There were access points throughout the lounge for power and charging devices.

FEED ME

While there was no table service, the food was great. Options in-

cluded local fare like freshly made gozleme and other assorted hot dishes, as well as plenty of Turkish sweets like baklava. There was also an entire station devoted to olives.

FEELING THIRSTY

There was freshly made Turkish tea and coffee, plus a variety of alcoholic drinks available. There were plenty of “help yourself” refrigerators around the lounge, each containing water, soft drinks, beers and ayran (Turkish yoghurt drinks).

REFRESH ME

The lounge offers massage and ironing services, and showers for travellers needing refreshment. It’s best to seek the showers out as quickly as possible as there may be a wait. There are also a number of sleeping suites for long-haul

passengers with long connection times.

FLIGHT INFORMATION

Flight information is broadcast on screens located throughout the lounge.

AMENITIES FOR FAMILIES

There’s a dedicated children’s play area, Curio City (with glass walls so parents can keep an eye on them) and older kids will enjoy the video games, golf simulator, slot-car track, movies and pool table.

BIGGEST WOW FACTOR

The wow factor is in the ambiance of the lounge, thanks largely to the décor, high ceilings and abundant natural light. It’s a beautiful lounge – one of the best I’ve ever visited.

turkishairlines.com

MEDIA WALL

GRAND PIANO IN THE LOUNGE

HIGH CEILINGS AND NATURAL LIGHT

AIRLINE: CATHAY PACIFIC LOUNGE CLASS: THE WING, FIRST CLASS

AIRPORT: HONG KONG INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

REVIEWED BY:

CHRIS FRAME

SERVICE WITH A SMILE

A friendly Cathay Pacific staff member walks over and greets me with a genuine smile. She takes my boarding pass and lounge invitation. On seeing my One World Emerald status, I am directed upstairs to the First Class Lounge.

LOUNGE AMBIANCE

The lounge is divided into several sections and is very spacious. A seating area, where large seats are clustered around an open and airy expanse, offers views over the balcony to awaiting aircraft. There are also well-equipped work stations, a light snack buffet, a fully serviced bar and a restaurant.

The First Class Lounge is illuminated by natural light and is open to the terminal, meaning while it’s an exclusive space there is some background noise from the terminal below. Background music was playing at a volume loud enough to hear, yet it was not so loud as to be intrusive, which adds to the ambiance.

READING MATERIALS AND ENTERTAINMENT

Complementary WiFi is promoted on small signs around the lounge. When it was working, it was very fast. However, on both my visits in September 2016 there were significant outages and difficulties connecting to the service. Newspaper choices include

local titles The China Morning Post and The Standard, as well as international publications such as The New York Times and The Times of London. There is also a selection of magazines including Time and National Geographic

CONNECT ME

It was easy to find power points, with the standard British-style 220 volt power sockets available throughout the lounge. Adapters were available to borrow if required. There are circular ‘podded’ seats with a lounge chair and working desk built in, perfect little workspaces. These have power sockets under the desk. USB power can be found at the computer stations.

FEED ME

A buffet area offers light meals and sweets; including apple tart and chocolate cake. There is an à la carte restaurant called The Haven. It offers a full table service with a variety of local and western dishes. It is full service restaurant with wait staff available to take orders and provide selection advice; while there is also a buffet available if you prefer to help yourself.

FEELING THIRSTY

There’s a little champagne bar with attentive staff on hand to offer assistance in the selection. During my visit, Möet et Chandon, Veuve Clicquot and Barons de Rothschild were

available. I opted for the Veuve Clicquot following advice from the waiter that the Rothschild may be a bit too sweet for my tastes.

There is a fully stocked bar with a wide variety of spirits, wines and beer. This is a serviced bar where a bartender will mix the drink in front of you.

REFRESH ME

The shower suites were among the nicest I’ve experienced at an airport lounge. The facilities are spacious and well appointed.

They include a large shower with both hand-held and rainforest functions. The water was instantly hot and the water pressure excellent. The shower room includes a toilet, washbasin and dresser. There are individual amenities including dental kit, shower cap and soaps. There are also cabanas which include a lounge, bathtub and shower.

FLIGHT INFORMATION

Large TV screens are scattered

around the walls throughout the lounge showing departure details. Flights are only called if there are delays or gate changes. This keeps the ambiance in the lounge quiet and relaxed, but you do need to pay attention so as not to be late to your flight.

AMENITIES FOR FAMILIES

The Wing First Class Lounge really didn’t seem to be designed for children, however kids could be occupied with the computers, which offer access to high speed internet, and they’d also enjoy the food! I’d suggest you bring your own device with pre-loaded movies to reduce the likelihood of boredom.

BIGGEST WOW FACTOR

The sleek décor and friendly service makes a good first impression. The lounge is a pleasant retreat and a welcoming place to spend a few hours before your flight; and the shower suites were superb.

cathaypacific.com

FOOD AND REFRESHMENTS ON DISPLAY

CHRIS FRAME

When it

beachfront luxury,

Infact, we’ve been voted the number one hotel in Palm Cove and one of the top five hotels in Australia by Tripadvisor.

But that’s not surprising, because Alamanda at Palm Cove is one of the only places in Far North Queensland to offer direct beach access, as well as luxurious beachside suites, the critically acclaimed Nu Nu restaurant and our multi-award winning day spa. And if that’s not enough, we also cater for families with extra-large apartments, a family pool zone and games room.

So no need to search TripAdvisor to find the perfect Palm Cove luxury accommodation, come straight to us.

Book at palmcove@alamandapalmcove.com.au or call 07 4055 3000

www.lancemore.com.au/alamanda

comes to

we’re way out in front.

Summer on the lake…

Two Chefs Hats

The Australian Wine List Hall of Fame

The Australian Hot 50 Restaurants

Australia’s Top 50 Hotels

Australasia’s Best Spa Experience

Australia’s Best Regional Property

Australia’s Best Food & Wine Experience

HOW TO : EMBARK ON A SAFARI IN TANZANIA / HAVE A VIP EXPERIENCE IN GLAMOROUS ST MORITZ / PLAN YOUR NEXT LUXURY GOLF TRIP USING OUR ANNUAL TRAVEL PLANNER / CYCLE QUEENSLAND'S HIDDEN PEAKS TRAIL / WALK JAPAN'S NAKASENDO WAY / SKI ASPEN IN WINTER AND GO HIKING IN SUMMER

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

THE NGORONGORO CRATER IS A TANZANIAN ICON AND A GO-TO LOCATION FOR A BREATHTAKING SAFARI EXPERIENCE. BUT THERE ARE MANY TREASURES TO BE DISCOVERED BEYOND THE RIM, TOO, WRITES Sarah Gilbert

As we pulled up what seemed perilously close to a pride of lions stirring from their siesta, a powerful lioness fixed me with her amber eyes. My heart stopped for an instant but I was clearly of no interest, as she soon rolled on to her back, revealing formidable fangs in a gaping yawn.

I was in Tanzania’s Ngorongoro Crater, the world’s largest unbroken caldera and one of Africa’s most iconic spots. A super bowl of wildlife, the ‘big five’ and thousands of other creatures roam across its 300 square kilometres, attracting equally large numbers of visitors.

As I explored its multiple microclimates, I was thrilled to see a shifty-looking spotted hyena emerging from its den, and a black rhino moving through the grass like an oversized lawnmower.

A throng of grumpy-looking buffalo heading to a watering hole created a traffic jam. We had to wait for elephants too. I held my breath as a fearsome female started towards us, enormous ears flapping, trunk waving. But she abruptly pulled up, gave a loud harrumph and lumbered off to join the rest of the herd.

But there’s another side to the UNESCO-protected Ngorongoro Conservation Area, and two new camps are aiming to showcase its less-visited areas, far from the crater’s usual four-wheel drive herds.

My first stop was Nomad Tanzania’s secluded Entamanu camp, which clings to the north-western rim of the crater. Sheltered by a forest of quintessentially African flat-topped acacias, it looks out over both the crater floor and Serengeti’s sunscorched plains.

Nomad Tanzania is renowned for its innovative, eco-luxe safaris and Entamanu – which means circle in Maasai – is footprint-free. Enormous canvas tents sit on wooden platforms, where the style is understated safari chic: furniture handcrafted by local artisans, lampshades created from beaded Maasai hats, cosy hand-knitted cushions and cowhide rugs.

One afternoon, I took a walk across the undulating savannah with a long-limbed Maasai – me head-to-toe in khaki, him wrapped in a dazzling red shuka, or traditional robe – along with my guide and an armed ranger in case we ran into something ferocious.

There wasn’t another soul in sight as I watched three ostrich sprinting in strict formation across the plain. A hundred-strong troop of baboons darted past, their sentries stopping to check us out,

From top: Nomad's Entamanu Ngorongoro camp; understated safari-chic interiors at Entamanu Ngorongoro; adventures with a Maasai at Asilia's The Highlands.

“There’s another side to the UNESCOprotected Ngorongoro Conservation Area, and two new camps are aiming to showcase its less-visited areas, far from the crater’s usual fourwheel drive herds”

while four keen-eyed giraffes interrupted their leaf chewing for a moment to stare at us, doe-eyed and curious.

As the sun began to streak the mountains pink and gold, a table magically appeared laden with snacks and I sat, gin and tonic in hand, bathed in the scent of wild basil, and drank in the stunning views.

On our return to camp, we stopped to talk to two young Maasai guarding a herd of cattle and, with my guide translating, it felt like a real conversation, unlike some pre-planned village visits.

Nomad are creating a boma, a traditional camp, exclusively for their guests, for a more authentic glimpse into Maasai life, their traditions and the importance of their cows – as well as sharing a barbequed goat.

That evening, I curled up on a sheepskin-clad sofa with a glass of malbec and shared wildlife tales with my fellow travellers.

My second stop was Asilia’s The Highlands, set more than 2,500 metres above sea level on the edge of a forest that envelopes the slopes of the Olmoti volcano, just north of Ngorongoro Crater.

Asilia is also known for creating first-rate camps in remote places around Tanzania and Kenya, and here the design is as revolutionary as the location. Classic safari tents have been replaced by eight futuristic-looking geodesic domes, half of each being transparent to take in the views – including the star-filled sky at night. There’s a wood-burning stove to ward off the evening chill, faux fur throws and striking black-and-white portraits of the Maasai line the walls.

Early one morning we drove across the seemingly boundless plains, dotted with cows, sheep, goats and the Maasai, adorned in intricate beaded jewellery, their robes vivid against the landscape, to the Empakaai Crater, ringed with steep, forested walls that conceal a turquoise lake scattered with brilliant-pink flamingos.

As I hiked down the narrow path, past tangles of bushes and ancient trees festooned with vines and creepers, the only sounds were birdsong and the tinkle of cowbells. And while it’s not the crater at which you’ll tick off the big five, my guide pointed out a fresh footprint of a leopard that had been prowling along the same path that very morning.

Asilia based the camp close to Ngorongoro’s less-visited Lemala entrance, which gave me the chance to take in the sheer spectacle of the crater, without another vehicle in sight.

When it was time for lunch, we drove past the public picnic site with its line-up of Land Cruisers, to an enchanted forest of yellow-barked acacias, where a table was laid and the chicken was already on the barbecue.

When the sun began to sink behind the mountains, it was time for cocktails and relaxed chat in the stylish Old Moti Bar, before a convivial fourcourse dinner around the communal table and a bedtime cocoa laced with Amarula liqueur.

Later, I lay in bed and looked up at the silver streak of the Milky Way, as hyenas whooped late into the night.

See more images from this story at luxurytravelmag.com.au

TANZANIA

l STAY HERE

Entamanu Ngorongoro

Rates at Entamanu Ngorongoro start from US$655 (about A$856) per person per night, and are inclusive of all meals, house drinks, all game activities, return airstrip transfers and laundry. nomadtanzania.com/north/entamanu-ngorongoro

The Highlands

Rates at The Highlands start from US$430 (about A$562) per person per night and are all-inclusive. asiliaafrica. com/east-africa-safari/tanzania/ ngorongoro-conservation/the-highlands/

From top: Breakfast on the deck at The Highlands; geodosic dome interiors at The Highlands.

FIELD NOTES

l

CAMPING COMFORT IN WINE COUNTRY

Autocamp, a glamping provider in California, has launched in Russian River. Surrounded by native redwood trees, Russian River Autocamp is just 90 minutes north of San Francisco in the heart of Sonoma’s wine country. Guests can choose to stay in luxury canvas tents or wellappointed Airstream trailer suites. All accommodation is fitted with premium hotel bed linens and spa-inspired bathroom amenities while the trailers feature walk-in showers. Nearby activities include hiking trails in the area’s national parks, canoeing and swimming in the Russian River, or perusing some 70 wineries in one of North America’s premier wine regions. The nearby town of Guerneville is a good foodie spot, with a selection of reputable local restaurants, bars and shops. Rates start from US$135 (about A$176) per night for a canvas tent and US$250 (about A$327) per night for an Airstream trailer. autocamp.com/location/russian-river

AND ON HIGH

Guests of Belmond Eagle Island Lodge in Botswana have a new way to experience the Okavango Delta, with the property launching a helicopter and horse-riding safari through the UNESCO World Heritage site. Available as a halfor full-day experience, guests start with a helicopter flight over the delta to witness aerial views of the landscape and the animal species that call the area home. Accompanied by a specialist guide, guests then venture on a trail via horseback through the bush, traversing a variety of terrain to view the local wildlife. Guests must be comfortable riding horses at all paces and have basic horse-riding skills to partake in the experience, which is priced at US$716 (about A$940) per person for a half-day safari and US$958 (about A$1258) for a full-day safari (2016 prices). belmond.com

l CONSERVATION

SAFARI UNDER THE STARS

Guests of Ceylon

Tea Trails in Sri Lanka will now be able to partake in the country’s first night safaris. The resort’s naturalist, Anuradha Ediriweera, and his team will take guests over 2000 acres of tea country trails where they can spot amphibians, sleeping lizards, snakes and wild boar as well as three different types of cats. The Relais & Chateaux property has also launched the Dunkeld leopard conservation station in partnership with The Wilderness and Wildlife Conservation Trust, where guests are invited to join resident naturalists and conservationists to track high-density zones of animal movement, plus conservation activities like observing data and remote camera activity. Night safaris start from US$30 (about A$39) per person. resplendentceylon.com/teatrails

l EXPERIENCE ON HORSEBACK

STEADY AS SHE GOES

The Sony FDR-X3000 is a new action camera featuring updated image stabilisation technology called Balanced Optical SteadyShot. Designed to compensate for excessive motion caused by shaking, particularly when users are shooting during sporting activities, the camera records in ultra highresolution (4K) video. The camera can also be purchased with an optional compact, mountable remote, which can control camera capabilities from other attachable accessories, such as a handlebar mount for biking. Other features include the ability to turn stills into 4K time-lapse movies; built in GPS; and three lens field angle options: wide, medium and narrow. The FDR-X3000 has a splash-proof body and comes with a waterproof case that is certified to 60 metres in depth. Prices for the Sony FDR-X3000 start at A$649, or A$899 for the kit with the new Live-View Remote. sony.com.au

GEAR & GADGETS

l NEW DRONE VIEW FROM ABOVE

Action camera expert GoPro has launched Karma, a compact drone that has been designed to fit inside a small Karma Case backpack. The new drone has foldable wings and comes with an image-stabilisation Karma Grip that can be mounted to vehicles, the Karma Case backpack, or handheld for users to continue filming on the ground. The Karma is compatible with the Hero4, Hero5 and Hero5 Session GoPro cameras and comes with a gamestyle remote controller designed to emulate the ease and familiarity of smartphone functionality.

Karma is priced from A$1195.95 including the drone, case, grip, stabiliser, controller, plus battery and charger. GoPro camera attachments are sold separately. gopro.com

l ON-THEGO VIDEO

TOUR ANTHOLOGY

THERE IS NOTHING LIKE A CHAMPAGNE DAME

Self-described “Champagne Dame” Kyla Kirkpatrick will lead two six-day tours of the Champagne region in June 2017, with guests staying at Château de Fère, a Small Luxury Hotels of the World property with a Michelin-starred restaurant. Guests of The Insider’s Tour have the opportunity to participate in masterclasses, degustation lunches and private cellar-door tastings with famed champagne houses like Bollinger, Pol Roger, Laurent-Perrier and Billecart-Salmon. The tour starts and finishes in Paris, with additional excursions like a champagne and perfume masterclass at a Parisian perfumery, where guests can create their own fragrance. The Insider’s Tour is priced from A$6990 per person and includes five nights’ accommodation, all transfers, and food and beverages. thechampagnedame.com

NEW TOURS FOLLOW FAMOUS FOOTSTEPS

Exotic Voyages has released two fully customisable tours inspired by James Bond and the popular BBC television show Top Gear. On the Recreating Top Gear’s Glory Days tour, guests will spend 15 nights traversing Vietnam, mirroring a 2008 journey by the Top Gear hosts. Highlights include a Vespa tour of Ho Chi Minh City; a motorbike ride along Hai Van Pass, one of Vietnam’s greatest driving roads; and a tailor-made suit outing in Hoi An and Hue. The tour finishes with a relaxing stay in Halong Bay. On the A Modern Take on James Bond tour, guests will spend 13 nights journeying through Hong Kong, Macau and Thailand, inspired by the 1974 film The Man with the Golden Gun. Experiences include playing at the floating Macau casino; a ‘Peninsula green’ Rolls Royce experience, where guests are taken to The Peninsula Hong Kong; a cruise of Hong Kong Harbour; a Muay Thai kickboxing match in Bangkok; and a speedboat visit to Khao Phing Kan, northeast of Phuket, known as James Bond Island. Accommodation is at two Mandarin Oriental properties in Macau and Bangkok, The Peninsula Hong Kong, and The Shore at Katathani resort in Phuket. Rates for Recreating Top Gear’s Glory Days start from US$3225 (about A$4261) per person, and prices for A Modern Take on Classic James Bond start from US$7561 (about A$9995) per person. exoticvoyages.com

TEE OFF IN ITALY

Small-group Italian tour specialist CarolinaSusi Italia Tours has launched an Italian Golf Tour for 2017. The 15-night tour will be hosted by Australian Golf-Pro Richard Harris and starts at Lake Maggiore in Northern Italy, finishing up in Tuscany. Throughout the tour guests will tee off at some of Italy’s best golf courses (and indulge in Italian food and wine along the way). The first golf game will be at the Jack Nicklaus-designed Le Robinie Golf Club, and from there, highlights will include a visit to Lake Como and the gardens of Villa Melzi, a cruise across Lake Maggiore to the Borromeo

Islands, a stop in Verona, another in Venice and the Chianti wine region in Tuscany. The courses guests will play include Franciacorta Golf Club in Brescia, the Marcus Crozedesigned Colli Berici Golf Club near Vicenza, the Montecatini Golf Course in Terme (also by Croze) and Versilia Golf Course near Pietrasanta.

The tour departs on 15 May, 2017, and tour rates start from A$9850 per person twin share (non-golfing partner rates are A$7550, single supplement A$1255), for a maximum tour group of 20 people. carolinasusi.com.au

GOLF TOUR

CHAMPAGNE TOUR

SOFT ADVENTURE CRUISE AROUND

Follow the paths of Paul Gauguin, Robert Louis Stevenson, Thor Heyerdahl and Jacques Brel on a 14-day cruise as it links the remote Marquesas and Tuamotus with Tahiti and provides one of the few remaining authentic cargo ship experiences.

Aranui 5 offers a window into the lives of local villages as it delivers essential goods during the 3,800 km journey from Papeete. This adventure will leave you with an indelible imprint of French Polynesia’s allure.

Highlights:

14 day cruise with all meals (French and Polynesian), onshore picnics and BBQs included

Cruise to nine islands with 17 ports of call

Maximum 254 passengers

All exterior cabins, over half with balconies

Guided excursions to archeological and cultural sites, ancient tikis, local villages and historic churches

Local multi-lingual tour guides (English, French and German)

Visit Paul Gauguin and Jacques Brel museums (entrance fee additional)

4WD sightseeing tour and hikes

Meet local artisans; visit handicraft studios and a working pearl farm

Traditional dance performances

Bora Bora

Ua Pou Royal Suite

* The 2018 Early Bird 10% discount booking is available to all accommodation until 31/12/2016.

Feel life´s potential

Experience a complete wellness journey at Kamalaya Wellness Sanctuary and Holistic Spa, Koh Samui, and restore your health and vitality with one of our inclusive programs

MAIN EVENT

HERE’S HOW TO GAIN VIP ACCESS TO THE WORLD’S BEST SPORTING AND CULTURAL EVENTS.

The glamorous Swiss ski resort of St Moritz has been a playground for the rich and leisured since winter tourism began there in 1864. The first town in the world to have its name registered as a trademark, St Moritz has developed into a travel ‘brand’ associated with cosmopolitan luxury. Behind the image stands a formidable sporting and hospitality infrastructure, while the whole enterprise rests on the region’s undeniable natural charms. Surrounded by lakes, mountains and glaciers, St Moritz enjoys an average of 320 days of sunshine per year and a famous ‘champagne climate’ that is as dry, sparkling and uplifting as the drink that bears its name.

In February, St Moritz will host the

FIS Alpine World Ski Championships for a record fifth time. No other location matches St Moritz’s popularity as the venue for this premier international sporting event, previously held in the iconic Alpine town in 1934, 1948, 1974 and 2003. VIP packages for the championships include admission to an exclusive hospitality area, situated right at the race finish line. You can watch all the action from the open-air second-floor terrace, where drinks and hot snacks are served and the views of the surrounding landscape are as spectacular as the sporting performances. Between races, slip into the lounge, where super-chef Reto Mathis and his team will be serving up his signature contemporary Alpine

l SKI

FIS ALPINE WORLD SKI CHAMPIONSHIPS

cuisine at live cooking stations. Breakfast and lunch are included in your ticket price. Packages also include a VIP shuttle service, but for a real James Bond entrance – after all, the Swiss Alps feature in four of the movies – why not arrive by helicopter? Swiss Helicopter provides a number of options for doing just that, whether in a private charter or shared flight.

In 2017, the competition will overlap with a much-loved annual local event, White Turf. Over three Sundays in February, horse races and ‘skikjöring’ – horse-drawn skiing – take place on frozen Lake St Moritz, surrounded by snow-covered mountains. Next year’s program will also include an evening of illuminated Night Turf, with light shows, music performances and art exhibitions complementing the ice races. Again, VIP packages are available, offering exclusive dining and seating options.

The brilliance and energy of St Moritz is best experienced

during the high social season of January-February. There seems to be no end to the inventiveness of this town in creating winter sports events that capitalise on its scenic location and luxury lifestyle. Every year, on the last weekend of January, elite riders gather here for the Snow Polo World Cup. A month later the St Moritz Cricket Club hosts its Cricket on Ice competition, in a playful nod to the British influence on the town’s sporting culture. During all these events, the streets buzz with popup bars and cafes, many hosting jazz performances.

For downtime, retail therapy is available at Via Serlas, where upmarket sports and gift shops sit beside the world’s top design and fashion brands. You can visit one of St Moritz’s 12 art galleries or stop in at Audrey Hepburn’s favourite café, Café Hanselmann. And of course, there’s always the option of taking to the slopes yourself, with 350km of ski runs just waiting to be explored.

BY ROSLYN JOLLY

l SPORT

SUPER BOWL LI 2017

While the teams for the 51st Super Bowl are yet to be confirmed, the soon-to-be sold out status of the event is certain. Returning for the third time to NRG Stadium in Houston Texas, tickets to the annual championship game of the National Football League are some of the most sought-after in American sport. The official hospitality provider of the NFL, On Location Experiences, offers a number of exclusive packages, the highest tier being the Diamond Package, which includes pre-select seats, meet and greets with NFL legends and on-field access post-game.

l VIP PACKAGES

VIP tickets for the FIS Alpine World Ski Championships start at CHF650 (A$878) per person for a one-day pass, CHF2290 (A$3092) for a three-day weekend pass, or CHF6390 (A$8627) for all 11 race days. Front row boxes, accommodating eight people, cost CHF7775 (A$10,496) per day. stmoritz2017.ch

VIP packages for White Turf are priced from CHF810 (A$1094) per person per day. whiteturf.ch

l GET THERE

Helicopter transport from St Moritz to the World Championships starting line is CHF 80 (A$108) per person in a shared helicopter. swisshelicopter.ch

Prices for private charters are available upon request from Swiss Helicopter at samedan@swisshelicopter.ch

l STAY HERE

Suvretta House

Suvretta House provides refined five-star elegance and a spectacular natural setting. Double rooms start from CHF760 (A$1026) per night, including breakfast. suvrettahouse.ch/en

For more information, visit stmoritz.ch/en

When: 5 February 2017

Where: NRG Stadium

Price: Diamond Packages start from $11,800

Includes: Diamond Package Game Ticket – Sideline Club Seats; pre-game three-hour VIP party in the NRG stadium; VIP concierge service; 90-minute postgame VIP party including on-field access; meet and greets with NFL legends; priority stadium access (early entry required); premium parking (available upon request); VIP NFL Experience ticket; Super Bowl LI gift package; official lanyard and ticket sleeve; commemorative gameday bag; priority option to purchase hotels, transportation, and additional exclusive experiences. superbowl.nflonlocation.com

BY KATIE MILTON

SUVRETTA HOUSE SILWENAE

l SPORT

THE 2017 AUSTRALIAN OPEN

Dating back to 1905 the Australian Open is Australia’s most renowned tennis championship. Hosted annually in Melbourne, the two-week tournament is the first of the four grand slams of the year and draws top players from around the world to compete for the prize money and title. Every year tickets sell out quickly, with finals seats an especially hot commodity. US-based Grand Slam Tennis Tours offers a range of bespoke VIP finals round itineraries inclusive of accommodation and Grand Slam champion appearances. The most exciting of these are the newly launched on-court seating options. The Australian Open 2017 will be the first tournament to offer 16 on-court seats per match, for what will arguably be the very best seat in tennis. KM

l ART

ART BASEL MIAMI BEACH 2016

Art Basel comprises a trio of the world’s leading modern and contemporary art fairs held annually in Basel, Hong Kong and Miami Beach. Art Basel Miami Beach is the art fair that spurred the birth of Miami Art Week and is one of the most globally renowned art events for international galleries and collectors. The 2016 fair will display work by over 4000 artists and more than 260 galleries from the Americas, Europe, Asia and Africa. Millionaire’s Concierge offers numerous VIP options for visitors to the fair. These include

When: 16-29

January 2017

Where: Melbourne Park, Batman Avenue, Melbourne, Victoria, Australia

Price: US$50,000 (about A$65,864) for on court seating for a final.

Packages include: Luxury accommodation at The Langham Melbourne; round-trip transfers to tennis venue; welcome dinner with past tennis champions; farewell dinner; commemorative gift; services of Grand Slam Tennis tour hosts. These packages start from US$2750 (about A$3622). grandslam tennistours.com

VIP previews, personal tours of collectors’ homes and access to Art Basel events and after parties. At the top of the list is an intimate 60-person dinner presented by artist Domingo Zapata and actor Adrian Brody, at which Leonardo DiCaprio will be in attendance. KM

When: 1-4 December 2016

Where: Miami Beach Convention Center, 1901 Convention Center Drive, Miami Beach, Florida, USA millionairesconcierge.com/service/ art-basel-in-miami

2016 WOMEN’S SINGLES CHAMPION ANGELIQUE KERBER

SHUTTERSTOCK.COM / JIMMIE48 PHOTOGRAPHY

Esther Schipper’s stand at Art Basel Miami Beach 2015.

We want you to know…

#whatstheonething

We’ve been asking luxury hotels, resorts, tour operators, cruise lines, rail companies and more to share with our readers the one fabulous thing about their product that they really want Australian luxury travellers to know about.

@visit.dubai: the city is ever evolving

@saffirefreycinet: the new Tasmanian Devil complimentary experience as part of our save the devil campaign

@mondrianhotels: LA –the hotel’s Skybar with its stunning view of #LosAngeles

@intercontinentalsydney: Club InterContinental, for fabulous views and personal service!

@bhutantourism: it’s the happiest place on earth.

@elementsofbyron: the introduction of a heritage train line between the property and #ByronBay in the new year

@oceaniacruises: the finest cuisine at sea!

@vegas: the amazing luxury product offering in the entertainment capital of the world

TO FIND OUT WHAT YOU ABSOLUTELY HAVE TO KNOW IN LUXURY TRAVEL, FOLLOW US ON:

www.luxurytravelmag.com.au

ANNUAL TRAVEL PLANNER: GOLF

Henry Peters TAKES A LOOK AT SOME OF THE WORLD’S BEST PLACES TO TEE OFF, AS WELL AS THE BEST TIME TO DO SO.

OCEANIA

● JANUARY – MARCH

BARNBOUGLE

FANCOURT (THE LINKS)

George, South Africa

Halfway between Cape Town and Port Elizabeth, Fancourt is Africa’s ultimate golfing oasis featuring three worldclass courses – The Links, Montagu and Outeniqua – all designed by legendary South African Gary Player. The Links is consistently ranked the country’s premier layout and hosted the famous 2003 Presidents Cup, which ended in a tie between the Americans and the Internationals after Tiger Woods and local hero Ernie Els played until near darkness. Although The Links is a private club, it offers public access to guests of Fancourt Hotel or Manor House.

Green fees: $185

Website: fancourt.com

Stay here: Fancourt Hotel (on-site)

LEOPARD CREEK COUNTRY CLUB

Malelane, South Africa

Only a river separates Leopard Creek from Kruger National Park, so don’t be alarmed if you’re distracted in your backswing by the sight of a crocodile or hippopotamus

Another Gary Player design, Leopard Creek has hosted the European Tour’s Alfred Dunhill

Championship every year since 2005 and is famous for its 18th island green. Tee times are available to guests of various local lodges.

Green fees: $320

Website: leopardcreek.co.za

Stay here: Buhala Lodge

Tasmania, Australia Tasmania has become a haven for international golf tourists with the addition of two breathtaking courses on King Island and the revered Barnbougle resort on the state’s mainland north coast. Barnbougle’s The Dunes, which is carved out of sand dunes, opened in 2004 and has been ranked by Golf Digest as the world’s 11th-best course while the newer Lost Farm (2010) has 20 holes and is considered by many to be just as good. Light charter flights take off and land on a runway right beside The Dunes.

Green fees: $99 (low season), $109 (high season)

Website: barnbougle.com.au

Above: Fancourt, hole 17.

Below: Barnbougle Dunes Villa.

Stay here: The Dunes Villas (on-site)

CAPE KIDNAPPERS

Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand

If photos of the cliff-top location of Cape Kidnappers leave you astounded, you can only imagine the feeling of being there. Perched 140 metres above the Pacific Ocean, Cape Kidnappers opened in 2004 to instant acclaim. Many holes are separated by gaping ravines, providing golfers with thrilling risk-reward play. Each hole has at least three sets of tees, allowing players of all levels a chance to succeed.

Green fees: $290 (low season), $460 (high season)

Website: capekidnappers.com

Stay here: The Farm at Cape Kidnappers (on-site)

KAURI CLIFFS

Northland Region, New Zealand

The Pacific Ocean is in plain view on all but three of Kauri Cliffs’ 18 holes. Rolling plains, wide fairways and giant greens make Kauri Cliffs grand in scale and, just like Cape Kidnappers, a collection of tees on each hole give less confident golfers a chance to thrive. Like Kidnappers, it’s an absolute must for any golfer visiting New Zealand.

Green fees: $290 (low season), $460 (high season)

Website: kauricliffs.com

Stay here: The Lodge at Kauri Cliffs (on-site)

ASIA

● MARCH – MAY

MISSION HILLS HAIKOU

Hainan, China

The game is growing in China, in particular on Hainan Island off the nation’s southern coast. The island is about half the size of Tasmania and is dotted with dozens of world-class public-access resort courses. For sheer shock value, visit Mission Hills in the island’s capital, Haikou. Mission Hills’ main complex is on the Chinese mainland but its Haikou facility alone has an eye-popping 10 courses, shopping centres, an 18-storey hotel and its own ‘Movie Town’.

Green fees: $300 (most expensive of 10 courses)

Website: missionhillschina.com

Stay here: Mission Hills Resort (on-site)

NORTH AMERICA

● JUNE – SEPTEMBER

PEBBLE BEACH GOLF LINKS

California, United States

A five-time US Open venue and the annual host

of the PGA Tour’s Pebble Beach National Pro-Am, Pebble Beach is among the most famous courses on the planet. Tiger Woods, Jack Nicklaus and Phil Mickelson have all won at Pebble Beach, which hugs the Pacific Ocean, offers breathtaking cliff-top golf and is arguably the world’s best public course. About a two-hour drive south of San Francisco, it neighbours the ultra-exclusive masterpiece Cypress Point, but there’s no hassle getting a tee time at Pebble if you stay at any of its three on-site hotels.

Green fees (hotel guests):

$650

Website: pebblebeach.com

Stay here: The Lodge at Pebble Beach (on-site)

BANDON DUNES GOLF RESORT

Oregon, United States About a two-hour drive north of the California border on the Pacific coast, Bandon Dunes Golf Resort has become a global golf mecca. It has four world-class 18-hole links courses – Bandon Dunes, Pacific Dunes, Bandon Trails and Old Macdonald – and its newest design, Bandon Preserve, is a 13-hole par-3 course. Bandon Dunes and Pacific Dunes are its most revered layouts, built on rugged coastline, exposing golfers to the elements and offering a quintessential links experience.

Green fees: $110 (low season), $330 (high season)

Website: bandondunesgolf.com

Stay here: Bandon Dunes Golf Resort (on-site)

From top: Cape Kidnappers, hole 15 green; Bandon Dunes Golf Resort, The Lodge; Kauri Cliffs, hole 7.

Opposite page, from top: Cabot Links, The Henebry; Yas Links, hole 12; The Old Course at St Andrews Clubhouse.

BANDON DUNES GOLF RESORT

CABOT LINKS

Nova Scotia, Canada

Perched atop Atlantic Ocean coastline, 36-hole venue Cabot Links is so spectacular that one major golf magazine declared its 2016 addition, Cabot Cliffs, the 19th-best course in the world before it had opened to the public. Cabot Links is Canada’s answer to Pebble Beach and considered the nation’s only authentic links golf resort. Cabot Links is in the community of Inverness, which was named after the Scottish town, so it makes sense the ocean views conjure comparisons to those in Scotland. Green fees (hotel guests): $90 (low season), $215 (high season)

Website: cabotlinks.com

Stay here: Cabot Links Lodge (on-site)

EUROPE

● JULY – AUGUST

THE OLD COURSE AT ST ANDREWS

Fife, Scotland

Universally recognised as ‘The Home of Golf’, St Andrews is where the game started and the Old Course is the crown jewel of its seven courses. Few golf experiences can match the joy of crossing the tiny Swilcan Bridge and striding up the 18th fairway towards the clubhouse. Bookings

on the Old Course can fill up more than 12 months in advance, so another option is to enter a ballot a few days before you want to play, or you can try your luck arriving unannounced on the morning you want to play.

Green fees: $127 (low season), $252 (high season),

Website: standrews.com

Stay here: Old Course Hotel

THE MIDDLE EAST

● OCTOBER – DECEMBER

YAS LINKS

Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates

Yas Links is hailed as the first links golf course in the Middle East. Built on flat, sandy land, the 18-hole layout runs along one

side of a Persian Gulf inlet and its sand dunes, man-made bumps and hollows, and clever bunkering have earned it a reputation as the premier course in the Emirates. Formula 1 fans will be pleased to know the Abu Dhabi F1 circuit is only a stone’s throw away.

Green fees: $170 (twilight), $230 (peak)

Website: yaslinks.com

Stay here: The Yas Hotel

EMIRATES GOLF CLUB

Dubai, United Arab Emirates

With the burgeoning Dubai skyline as a backdrop, the 45hole Emirates Golf Club has a unique wow factor. Built on desert terrain, Emirates’ Majlis

Course opened in 1988 as the Middle East’s only 18-hole grass golf course and has hosted the European Tour’s iconic Dubai Desert Classic since 1989. Truly a modern marvel, you can even play night golf at Emirates Golf Club on its fully flood-lit Faldo Course and nine-hole course, Par-3.

Green fees: $350 (Majlis Course)

Website: dubaigolf.com/emiratesgolf-club

Stay here: The Ritz-Carlton Dubai

All green frees quoted are for 18 holes. All prices are in Australian dollars. The months specified for each golf venue are when the temperature is most manageable for golf (warm but not being sweltering).

ST ANDREWS LINKS

ADVENTURE ON TWO WHEELS

THE SCENIC RIM IS ONE OF QUEENSLAND’S OVERLOOKED GEMS. Matt

TAKES TO HIS MOUNTAIN BIKE FOR FOUR DAYS OF RUGGED, NATURAL BEAUTY AND INTRIGUING HISTORY.

Shea

Karmen Butler is telling us about a brumby. The young mountain-bike guide has been pedalling hard but her breathing stills as she describes a beautiful, chestnut-brown stallion that seems to appear sometimes like magic. “Out of these woods; almost out of nowhere,” she says. “Hopefully we’ll see him.”

Hopefully.

Spicers and Cunningham gaps are brumby country. Or were, at least. Hundreds of the wild horses used to roam these mountain passes 100 kilometres southwest of Brisbane, which in the 19th century acted as a vital connection through what’s now known as the Scenic Rim between the Queensland capital and the fertile agricultural lands of the Darling Downs beyond.

Upon this long, vertiginous shelf’s conversion to national parks, the number of brumbies was slowly brought down to protect native wildlife. Now, though, the rangers don’t mind this one nameless chestnut stallion wandering the land like it’s his own.

Karmen and fellow guide Alastair Oakman push off and lead us on a series of single trails

that zigzag down the ridges of Cedar Mountain. This is day one of the Hidden Peaks Trail by Spicers Retreat. The four-day ride through the region is exhilarating stuff with berms flowing from one to the other and spectacular views over the Main Range National Park a giddy distraction.

The 18-kilometre ride turns out to be more down than up, but we’re still numb with exertion when, that afternoon, we pedal into Spicers Canopy EcoLodge, our first night’s accommodation. Bikes are lowered, champagne raised, and we climb into the beguiling property’s hot tub to sooth muscles and swap stories late into the night.

This is also convict country. The next day we set off from Canopy, heading east, out of the plateaus of the Main Range towards the valley beyond. Slowly, the scenery changes from woodland populated by gum and Kurrajong trees to dense rainforest. We push uphill, urged on by cooing bellbirds and buying back gears on the humped ‘whoa-boys’ (prominent rain diversion banks, named by the drovers who once negotiated them), towards Spicers Gap Road. Skirting the pass at an elevation of 750 metres, this park-protected stretch of cobblestone roadway was built by More-

Below: Cyclists en route on the Hidden Peaks Trail.

Opposite: A pause at the Governor's Chair Lookout.

“The four-day ride through the region is exhilarating stuff with berms flowing from one to the other and spectacular views over the Main Range National Park a giddy distraction”

ton Bay Penal Colony detainees between 1859 and 1865 (Peter Spicer himself was a convict overseer).

We stop for lunch at the Governor’s Chair Lookout, so named for prominent rock that sits atop the Gap (and the prominent buttocks that once sat on it, surveying the convicts’ work), looking eastward. You’re barely a 90-minute drive away from Brisbane, the Gold Coast and the Pacific Ocean beyond, but you’d hardly know it. Instead, it’s a stunning view across the rich farmland of Fassifern Valley and the stumpy peaks beyond – a dramatic, primordial caldera that curves to the southeast to flirt with the New South Wales border.

After lunch, Alastair leads the way as we fly in a perfect line down Spicers Gap Road into the valley below. It’s six kilometres of sweeping fire-trail turns, an exhilarating bitumen stretch pushing our bikes beyond 70km/h.

That night, we gather round the fire pit at our second overnight stop, Hidden Peaks Eco Camp, its cosy, red-gum cabins and lodge cradled by the surrounding ranges. Owls hoot, the Milky Way glistens above; right now, we might just be the only people left in this world.

Day three swaps single tracks and fire trials for a change of pace along a series of valley roads that head north through farmlands and seemingly forgotten hamlets. To our left, the granite mountains of the Main Range stack awkwardly on top of one another, like children’s building blocks. It’s a spectacular view, more Monument Valley than Southeast Queensland. The hard climb into the Hideaway Cabins camp that ends the day warrants embraces and fist pumps, before we swap glory stories and GPS data around the log fire.

A long dinner of char-grill local beef complemented by a South Australian shiraz is

fuel for the final morning of our ride: an exploration of Hidden Vale Adventure Park, a sprawling network of mountain-bike trails. With swooping, expertly constructed routes christened with names such as ‘Ripple Effect’ and ‘Almost There’, it’s a daredevil’s paradise. Suddenly, we’re no longer alone, riders of every age, stripe and skill level sharing the trails, high-fiving and urging each other on.

On a misty Monday midday we finally roll into our ultimate destination: Spicers Hidden Vale. Hot showers and a hearty lunch await. We sit and watch the clouds descending off the mountains, light rain a soothing drum on the restaurant roof. What was at the start of the trip a ragtag bunch of strangers are now firm friends. We made it, together – even if no one saw that elusive brumby. Karmen smiles. “Next time,” she says. “You’ll see him next time.”

MATT SHEA

MATT SHEA

HIDDEN PEAKS TRAIL

The four-day, three-night Hidden Peaks Trail operates from February through to late November. A rate of A$2290 per person twin share includes accommodation, meals and beverages. Guests are also provided with a dual-suspension mountain bike, gloves, helmet and daypack with water bladder. The price includes transfers from Brisbane. Guests must have mountain biking experience and a good level of fitness; padded bike pants are essential. hiddenpeakstrail.com

l STAY HERE

Accommodation along the route is well-appointed camping. Night one is spent in king beds and spacious safari tents at Spicers Canopy Eco-Lodge. Nights two and three are in more basic but comfortable cabins with lined highquality sleeping bags.

See more images from this story at luxurytravelmag.com.au

From top: Riders stop for a rest and the view; Spicers Hidden Vale.

Opposite, clockwise from top left: Toasting by the firepit at Hidden Peaks Eco Camp; Hidden Peaks Eco Camp by day; tents at Spicers Canopy EcoLodge; cyclists on day one.

“What was at the start of the trip a ragtag bunch of strangers are now firm friends. We made it, together even if no one saw that elusive brumby”

MATT SHEA

AN ANCIENT JOURNEY

Gary Allen GIVES UP TWO WHEELS FOR HIS OWN TWO FEET TO EXPLORE THE RICH TRADITIONS AND NATURAL SPLENDOUR OF OLD JAPAN.

To experience a traditional Japanese culture, you might consider venturing into the country and away from the vortex of big-city life. Here, amongst the trees, parks and small villages where the local people have lived for generations, you’re away from the global shopping brands and crowded tourist hubs.

I’d never been on a guided walk before, having always opted for cycling; a faster, more intensive way of exploring the countryside. I was looking forward to experiencing Japan at a more leisurely pace. It was to be a time for slowing down; an opportunity to observe an unfamiliar way of life, to interact with people going about their daily routines, and to sample the foods that have been eaten locally for centuries.

The Nakasendo Way walk brings to life the majesty and tradition of ancient Japan. It is a journey rich in history. Dating back to 1600,

l THE WALK

Walk Japan’s Nakasendo Way tour is a fully guided walking tour suitable for occasional walkers who can walk for up to four hours in comfort. The 11-day, 10-night tour starts in Kyoto and ends in Tokyo. Rates start from JPY472,000 (about A$5955) per person. walkjapan.com

samurai and their subordinates travelled this route making their way to Edo (modern day Tokyo) to pay homage to the Shogun, the supreme military commander and overlord, answerable only to the Emperor.

There were 12 of us on this walk along with our guide Shima, Tokyo-born but now living in America. She had led this walk 16 times before and knows the trail inside and out (including every bathroom, café and grocery store along the way!).

The Nakasendo Way starts in Kyoto and, after 10 nights of travel through cities and towns including Hikone, Sekigahara, Magome, Tsumago and Narai, ends in Tokyo. Along the way we stayed in ryokans (inns) catering to distinguished travellers that have been run by the same families for generations. Traditional customs are still very much a part of the hospitality offering in Japan’s ryokans: from eating your meals sitting cross legged on the floor;

washing in a Japanese onsen before dinner; sleeping on futons laid out on the straw tatami mats on the floor; and definitely no shoes allowed (all guests receive slippers upon entry).

At one of the nightly meals I had wild boar that was shot by the innkeeper only the day before as well as freshly caught trout from a nearby stream and sweet crispy grasshoppers. All of it was amazingly delicious. Have no fear though; the hosts do happily accommodate Western preferences where they can, such as having small stools or backrests at meals. The futons take some getting used to but after a day of walking, you might be so tired you won’t notice the difference. I did bring a pillow with me, and I was glad I did, as the local pillows are very small and sometimes made of buckwheat. Ryokans also feature the traditional Japanese rice-paper walls, which as you would imagine, are very thin. A tip for light sleepers, you may want to bring ear-plugs and an eye mask.

Left: Hikone Castle. Right, from top: breakfast along the Nakasendo Way; local school children practice their English with writer Gary Allen; shrine in Narai-Juku.

The walks were beautiful. Distances varied from 10km to 25km in a day and incorporated differing and often undulating terrain. I recommend doing some training before you go. It will make for a more comfortable experience, as there were some challenging ascents over compact earthen trails, pavement, stone paths and dirt roads.

After each day of walking, and that relaxing onsen, you’ll change into your yukata; a cotton kimono provided at every ryokan. This multipurpose piece is what you wear to dinner – a great way to keep packing to a minimum as you never have to worry about dressing up. Dinner and breakfast are served at a long, low table and everyone is seated on the tatami mats, which takes some time getting to get used to for most Westerners (unless you practice yoga).

One day we happened to walk through a village that was having its annual harvest festival. Dressed in traditional costumes, drummers played and chanted as the crowd watched, then the town elders threw dozens of small packets of rice cakes to the amassed people. There was a frenzy of both young and old clamouring to

catch these prizes – a few of our group managed to catch some which we enjoyed grilled at dinner, to bring us health and happiness in the coming year.

I enjoyed this tour so much that, if I’d had the time, I would have continued with Walk Japan’s add-on tour of Tokyo. If you are interested in history and want to enjoy an authentic cultural experience in Japan – one that includes exercise, traditional food and the great outdoors with a knowledgeable guide – then this is your trip.

WALK THE OITA HOT SPRING TRAIL

Walk Japan has launched a new walking tour for exploring the Oita Prefecture on the island of Kyushu. The Oita Hot Spring Trail is a fullyguided six-day tour that will allow up to 12 guests to explore the rich countryside of the Oita Prefecture and discover the many onsen along the way. The tour will finish by the sea in hot spring resort city Beppu. Rates start from JPY316,000 (about A$4045) per person. walkjapan.com/tour/oita-hot-spring-trail/

See more images from this story at luxurytravelmag.com.au

A DICTIONARY OF MUTUAL UNDERSTANDING

by Jackie Copleton

Amaterasu Takahashi has spent her life grieving for her daughter Yuko and grandson Hideo, who were victims of the atomic bomb dropped on Nagasaki in 1945. Now a widow living in America, she believes that one man was responsible for her loss; a local doctor who caused an irreparable rift between mother and daughter. When a man claiming to be Hideo arrives on her doorstep, she is forced to revisit the past.

tripfiction.com/books/dictionary-mutualunderstanding/

COMPLETE YOUR TRIP TO THE GRAMPIANS IN WESTERN VICTORIA WITH A VISIT

• Best’s cellar door a MUST visit whilst in the Grampians

• Best’s has won many awards including the James Halliday Wine of The YEAR 2016 and 2012 Jimmy Watson Trophy

• Free wine tasting and underground cellar tours

• Special museum wines with matching cheese tasting available www.bestswines.com

BEST’S GREAT WESTERN

Proud winner of the James Halliday Wine Companion 2017 WINE of the year

LITTLE NELL, BIG TREAT

Siobhan Plowman DELVES INTO THE ICONIC ASPEN OPULENCE AND ONE OF THE TOWN’S MOST LUXURIOUS SKI RESORTS, THE LITTLE NELL.

Aspen: the iconic Colorado ski-resort town famous for its incredible scenery, glamorous hotels, worldclass skiing terrain and its abundance of celebrity guests.

While the name Aspen has become synonymous with extravagance and a jet-setting, affluent crowd (flaunting in the latest European fashions), it surprisingly still manages to retain that quintessential, small town feel. Home to four world-class ski resorts (all accessible on the one lift ticket), it is one of the few ski and snowboard destinations that suits all abilities and demographics – appealing to experts, beginners, couples, singles and families alike. In Aspen, you can find everything – from that $30,000 designer jacket to a $10 pub meal.

If luxury is your thing, though, you can’t miss The Little Nell.

Set at the foot of Aspen Mountain, also known as Ajax, this ski-in, ski-out resort is Aspen’s only Forbes Five-Star and AAA Five Diamond hotel; one of the most exclusive and luxurious properties that the glamorous address of Aspen has to offer. Wake up in one of the 78 guest rooms, eight suites or six luxury suites to your personal ski concierge and slope-side service; pull on your gear, which has been prepared for your arrival (boots warmed), and head out the door, with only a few metres to the base of the Silver Queen Gondola. If you feel like skiing one of the other three Aspen ski resorts, such as the colossal Snowmass, the famous Highlands Bowl at Aspen Highlands or the beginner-friendly Buttermilk, hop in a complimentary Audi A8 for a lift.

To celebrate its 20-year anniversary, The Little Nell Residences (next to The Little Nell and also available for nightly occupation) recently underwent a major renovation, swapping its wooden skilodge look for contemporary, luxurious interiors. The rooms have a modern chalet look; intended to emulate the feeling of walking into a private home rather than a hotel room, while maintaining all

aspects of luxury you would expect in five-star accommodation. The cosmopolitan hues of metal, blue and silver are balanced out by the large stone-clad fireplaces, walnut tables, fur throws and plush, textured linens. The classic marble bathrooms, thick carpets and heated floors are given a contemporary edge by a Jean Michel Wilmotte dining table, or a Mark Albrecht bar stool. The modern artworks that decorate the walls add a fresh splash of colour. Many of the rooms are flooded with natural light; however if its spanning mountain views you’re after, you’ll have to upgrade to one of the premium guest rooms or luxury suites. Despite the opulence, all of the rooms and suites are family friendly.

The 52 guest rooms, 26 premium guest rooms and eight suites at The Little Nell itself will be refreshed in the Spring of 2017 by Champalimaud Design of New York known for their work on The Dorchester in London, Carlyle and Waldorf Astoria in New York, Hotel Bel Air in Los Angeles and Island House in Nassau.

Clockwise from top: Snowmobiling at Aspen; the Paepcke Suite at The LIttle Nell; the Pfeifer Suite at The LIttle Nell.

Opposite from top: One of Aspen's huts; bonfire at Aspen.

If staying at The Little Nell with children, you’ll find a stuffed animal on the bed, toddler shampoo and bubble bath in the bathroom and children’s robes and slippers waiting in the wardrobe. Like many North American ski hotels and resorts, pets are not only welcome but are looked after like any other guest at the hotel.

The Little Nell is home to Element 47, touted as one of the best dining experiences in Aspen. The extensive wine cellar, headed by the hotel’s Master Sommelier Carlton McCoy (one of only 230 Master Sommeliers worldwide), is said to contain more than 20,000 wines. If silver service is not what you’re after, visit the ever-popular Ajax Tavern’s rooftop patio for some star-spotting, a nice après-ski cocktail, some fresh oysters and their famous truffle fries. Alternatively, visit one of the hotel’s several bars, including Oasis – the roving pop-up champagne bar that can be found serving Veuve Clicquot from a hidden location somewhere on Aspen

C2PHOTOGRAPHY

THE LITTLE NELL

DAVID MARLOW

“[Aspen] still manages to retain that quintessential, small town feel”

Mountain (clues can be found on the hotel’s Twitter account). On the occasions you’d prefer to venture away from the resort, the town centre of Aspen is less than a minute’s walk. Aspen is rife with dining options, shopping and nightlife, with more than 100 restaurants, countless clubs and bars and activities to suit every age and price range.

The fun doesn’t simply come to an end once winter is over; Aspen’s roaring social calendar continues into the summer months. For some art and culture, visit one of the many galleries and museums (also operating during ski season), attend the ballet or check out one of Theatre Aspen’s summer performances in the park. The Aspen Music Festival and School puts on more than 300 events from June through August, and concert hotspot Belly Up has featured past acts such as Snoop Dogg and The Flaming Lips. Aspen is

famous for its surrounding scenery, and many call it the gateway to Colorado’s best alpine hiking and walking trails. Visit the famous Maroon Bells, with its iconic peaks and picturesque valley lakes and streams, or take your pick from one of the many outdoor recreational activities on offer; from hot air ballooning and paragliding, to horseback riding, rock climbing, fishing, and mountain biking. The fresh air and stunning natural surroundings of Aspen can be enjoyed all year round.

Rates start at US$470 (about A$610) per night for a Tower View room. Rates for The Residences at The Little Nell start from US$2875 (about A$3733) per night for a two-bedroom residence in early winter. thelittlenell.com

l GET THERE

Aspen/Pitkin County Airport (ASE) is only minutes from the hotel. Fly in privately or on one of the 150 weekly nonstop and connecting flights. The airport is serviced by commercial airlines United, American and Delta. Shuttle services and private vehicles are available daily from Vail/ Eagle County, Grand Junction, Rifle and Denver airports.

DO THIS: SKI ASPEN

Book your trip to Aspen with Travelplan Ski, the world’s largest international supplier of skiers and snowboarders to Aspen Snowmass

– you can save on business and first class airfares with major carriers, accommodation, as well as on lift passes (like the SKI10 and SKI30 lift passes just for Australian skiers), snow school and equipment rental. travelplan.com.au/destinations/usa/ resorts/aspen.html

Clockwise from top left: Ice skating; Aspen at night; a snowy walkway.

See more images from this story at luxurytravelmag. com.au

“Aspen is rife with dining options, shopping and nightlife”

JEREMY SWANSON

JEREMY SWANSON

WE VISIT LUXURY PROPERTIES ACROSS THE GLOBE IN FIJI / AUSTRALIA / THAILAND / BALI / NEW ZEALAND / SRI LANKA & SUITES IN SYDNEY, MELBOURNE, SINGAPORE AND BANGKOK.

&

ABOVE BEYOND

WHEN YOU’RE READY FOR AN EXPERIENCE THAT EXCEEDS LUXURY, WHY NOT TRY FIJI’S LAUCALA ISLAND – THE LARGEST PRIVATE ISLAND IN THE SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE, WRITES Kelly Jane Gabriel.

When Red Bull co-founder Dietrich Mateschitz purchased Laucala Island from the Forbes family for US$10 million in 2003, he used it as a getaway for friends and family. Five years and untold millions later saw the creation of 25 meticulously crafted villas. If you’re interested in hiring the entire island with 71 of your closest friends it will set you back a cool US$170,000 per night with a five-night minimum.

If that’s above your budget you can always seek approval to rent the owner’s villa, the Hilltop Residence, which sits on the highest point of the island, has 360-degree views and encompasses lush jungle cascading down to a stunning blue lagoon. This will cost about US$45,000 per night.

But really, there is no need to splurge as the standard Laucala villa is far from standard. With a traditional Fijian thatched roof and timber beams, mahogany floors, and giant bathtubs carved out of granite, this is island luxe at its best. Besides

the main villa with bedroom, bathroom and sunken living room, a second lounge room is in a separate pavilion, which cleverly adds to the feeling of spaciousness. The bar stocked with decanters of scotch, gin and cognac is partnered with a fridge full of wine, beer, freshly squeezed juices and, of course, Red Bull. Upon returning to our villa each afternoon we were greeted by decadent pastries –blueberry tarts and lemon meringue pies.

Glass walls surround the lounge room and lead to a large patio, two covered cabanas, a large infinity pool, a second granite tub, and two outdoor showers. The pool area is surrounded by tiki torches programmed to light up at dusk and turn off after you’re comfortably tucked away in bed.

Villa locations vary from private beachfront to hillside jungle and there is one sprawling villa perched over the water with a pool carved into lava rock. Then there’s Oprah’s favourite, The Pavillion, which is built into the side of a cliff with a private beach below and two pools.

While nearly all resorts in Fiji rely on barges from the mainland for supplies, Laucala strives to be self-sustaining. With hydroponic greenhouses, beehives, a cattle farm, piggery,

ducks, chickens, quails, and even an abattoir, all set upon about 240 acres of farmland, they are able to produce about 85 per cent of what is required to provide guests with an elevated culinary experience day in, day out. The farm tour was very insightful, I took comfort in the transparency provided by the farm tour and the farm-to-table approach.

Worried that you might get bored on an island? That won’t be the case on Laucala. Never before have I seen so many activities on offer, and nearly every one is included in your stay – even your first massage. All of the equipment is top of the range, from the clear acrylic kayaks (I watched a sea turtle swim under me), to the dive equipment, sailboats and jet skis. The horses were the most impressive I have seen at any resort and the equestrian expert, Heather from New Zealand, made my daughter feel comfortable and confident, having only been on a horse once before. We rode through the coconut plantations and along the beach, ending up at the dive shop where we impulsively decided to jump on the jet skis and take a 35-minute spin around the island – because that’s what you do on a private island, whatever you feel like, whenever you feel like it.

Nothing is ever too much trouble at Laucala, in fact I don’t think I heard the word “no” the entire stay. The ultimate activity that blew us all away was the submarine ride. Yes, they have a US$1.5 million dollar submarine. The Deep Flight Super Falcon takes one guest at a time on an ocean tour through coral filled reefs to view tropical fish, rays and turtles. It’s a one-of-a-kind experience.

As you can imagine, the food at any of the resort’s five restaurants is nothing short of spectacular. Australian-born chef Anthony Healy spent his early years in France and London, and prior to Laucala was at both Hayman and Lizard islands. He offers an amazing range of choices and is also happy to cook up any special request you may have. Breakfast at the Plantation House on your first morning is a special experience. It’s a breakfast degustation of sorts, with the kitchen sending out a huge sampling of what is on offer so you can try everything from house-smoked fish, chicken and ham to beef tartare and homemade yogurt, Asian chicken soup, congee, pastries, fresh fruit and coconut pancakes. The tiered silver trays keep flowing at a perfect pace. The Thai flavours at the Seagrass restaurant, which sits on the side of a cliff,

“Villa locations vary from private beachfront to hillside jungle and there is one sprawling villa perched over the water with a pool carved into lava rock”

OVERWATER VILLA

were also a standout, along with Teppanyaki at the exclusive table that seats six also perched cliff-side.

Arriving at the spa is like stepping into a garden paradise with walkways suspended over pools of lotus flowers that lead to four spa suites. The beauty products are handmade on site with a primary focus on natural ingredients found on the island such as papaya, coconut and hibiscus. My daughter and I spent time in the spa kitchen learning how to make some of the signature candles and bath bombs. The girls in the spa are also happy to show the kids how to create special souvenirs to bring home while you and your partner are enjoying a treatment.

The 18-hole championship golf course is a stunning feature. Renowned Scottish course designer David McLay Kidd created the par72 course, which, thanks to Mateschitz’s love for the environment, imposes little impact on the old coconut plantation. There is always a golf pro on hand if you would like a lesson or tips on how to improve your game. In fact, with a staff to guest ratio of about 5:1 when at full capacity, you won’t have to wait a split second for a drink refill, or anything else for that matter.

Laucala was truly an unrivalled experience. There is so much to be said about a destination that leaves you feeling that you could have done with nothing more. It was as if the skills of each and every employee were so finely honed that you could be forgiven for feeling they could sense your every want and need as soon as it came to mind. The first-class facilities and picture perfect surroundings all but solidify the opinion that this place is completely faultless.

Rates start from US$4800 (about A$6237) per night for two adults in a one-bedroom Plantation, Seagrass or Plateau villa. laucala.com See more images from this story at luxurytravelmag.com.au

Above: Meke Wau Dance Performance.

Left, from top: Laucala offers diving as a guest activity; Laucala's championship golf course; deep flight submarine; dining at the onsite Seagrass Lounge and Restaurant.

THE GREAT ESCAPE

AFTER A BLISSFUL STAY AT THE REMOTE RESORT IN FIJI, Kelly Jane Gabriel UNDERSTANDS THE APPEAL OF PACKING IT ALL IN FOR ISLAND LIFE.

You’ve got to admire a family that decides to leave the rat race and start life over; a simple island life, with two beautiful kids in tow, on a remote beach in northern Fiji. It takes guts and a lot of hard work, but Australians Dan and Natasha Dimmock decided to pursue their dream, and now own and operate a boutique luxury island getaway, The Remote Resort.

Three and a half years in the making, with Dan living on-site in a tent for a year and Natasha and the kids visiting from Brisbane, the barefoot luxury resort they have created makes for a unique and wonderful experience. I hesitate to call it a resort, as it feels so unreserved and intimate. Being warmly welcomed with a traditional kava ceremony shortly after arriving by boat, you remain more of a friend than a guest for your entire stay. With only seven bures, you won't ever queue for meals, activities or spa treatments. Everyone we met was friendly and low key, there’s no room for snobbery here; this is an authentic island experience with a five-star twist.

The Remote Resort is designed with the intention of slowing guests down and encouraging them to disconnect from the rigours of everyday life. There is free WiFi access in the main pavilion, which is thankfully just inconvenient enough to keep you from constantly checking your phone as we are so programmed to do. Having teenag-

ers I loved this, I actually got to see their smiling faces instead of always looking at the tops of their heads.

True to its name, The Remote Resort is definitely secluded, but getting there was part of the adventure and I loved it. From Nadi Airport we took the most stunning one-hour plane ride with Island Hoppers Fiji. After landing in Savusavu the resort had organised a private car to take us on the one hour, 15-minute drive, which followed the turquoise sea past tiny villages, old homesteads and coconut plantations. As we got closer to the ocean, the bitumen ended and a 20-minute four-wheel drive adventure through the jungle began. At this stage we were grinning from ear to ear with the realisation that the ‘real’ world is now far behind us. The last part of the journey is a 15-minute boat ride spent lounging on beanbags in the sunshine on the top deck. When you hear the sweet sound of a Fijian welcome song, something inside tells you that you have arrived. Paradise. Alternatively, if that sounds like too much excitement, you can fly to Taveuni Island and take an easy 20-minute drive followed by a 20-minute boat ride.

The resort sits neatly on the edge of Rainbow Reef, a world-famous dive and snorkel sight. You will definitely want to spend some time there. Other activities include guided hikes to hidden waterfalls, kayaking and a visit to nearby vil-

THE MAIN LODGE

lages. My daughter’s favourite day was when we were dropped at a private beach with a picnic lunch. A large friendly pig that lives on a nearby farm, and who frequents this particular beach, just so happens to love coconuts. He begs like a dog until you open one for him. It is entertaining to watch a pig devour a coconut. Then, as if orchestrated, a rooster arrives to help clean up the scraps.

Dan and Natasha have done a terrific job with the villas. Admittedly, I was not expecting such luxurious and comfortable beach bungalows in such a remote location. This only serves as a testament to the couple’s determination to produce a high quality service despite obvious hurdles. The beds and bedding are incredibly comfortable. All villas are oceanfront and have a large sundeck with plunge pool. The 92-square-metre two-bedroom villa is set at the end of the beach and is perfect for families. There is a bedroom with ensuite on each side of the full-size kitchen and bi-folding glass doors that open to the patio. They have also recently completed two oceanfront retreats that have a larger pool and deck area, which was perfect for a couples coconut scrub and banana leaf wrap.

All of the timber and furniture is local and was milled on-site with the help of neighbouring villagers.

The food is another highlight. Each morning during breakfast you are given a menu

with several choices for lunch and dinner. You can also choose where you would like to dine; on the beach under the stars by a bonfire was our favourite. Memorable meals included salt and pepper squid, coconut chickpea curry with freshly caught fish, vegetable stir-fry, grilled Spanish mackerel and delicious freshly baked bread. And make sure you try some of the homemade potato chips served at the bar – they are highly addictive!

By the end of our stay my partner was trying to convince me that we should buy the land around the corner and follow in Dan and Natasha’s footsteps. Though it’s a romantic idea, I’m happy to keep coming back to The Remote Resort for my island fix. Besides, I would miss those homemade potato chips.

l GET THERE

Transfers to the island are operated by Island Hoppers. Rates start from FJD740 (about A$467) per adult and FJD516 (about A$326) per child for a one way transfer from Nadi to Savusavu (rate includes 25 per cent taxes).

islandhoppersfiji.com

l STAY HERE

Rates at The Remote Resort start from FJD1475 (about A$940) per night (including 25 per cent taxes).

fijiresort.com.fj

See more from this story see luxurytravelmag.com.au

l

RECOMMENDED READING

THE SHOESHINE KILLER by Marianne Wheelaghan

The Shoeshine Killer is the second of the bestselling Scottish Detective Lady mysteries, featuring DS Louisa Townsend from Edinburgh. Louisa is on her first visit to Fiji and immediately gets caught up in the search for a double killer. This takes her on a dangerous journey into Fiji’s murky underworld, which is as far removed from the country’s tourist images of blue lagoons and palm-lined beaches as possible.

tripfiction.com/books/the-shoeshine-killer/

Left: A new oceanfront villa at The Remote Resort.

Below: Arrive in style on Island Hoppers' fixed wing aeroplane.

“You can also choose where you would like to dine; on the beach under the stars by a bonfire was our favourite”

A SACRED JOURNEY

ULURU IS AWE-INSPIRING FOR ADULTS AND CHILDREN ALIKE. Katrina Holden DISCOVERS A FAMILY-FRIENDLY WAY TO EXPERIENCE ONE OF AUSTRALIA’S MOST RENOWNED DESTINATIONS.

From the moment our plane makes its approach towards the Uluru airport tarmac, with the windows framing a scene of earthy red dirt, cobalt blue sky and glimpses of that monolith, I know we’re in for a special family holiday to the heartland of the Australian outback.

Transported to Voyages Ayers Rock Resort, we can see the wondrous Uluru, or Ayers Rock, as we drive towards our accommodation at one of the several properties that make up the resort. Voyages Ayers Rock Resort was purchased by The Indigenous Land Corporation in 2011 and was established by Voyages Indigenous Tourism Australia, but the resort was first built in 1984. It’s 20 kilometres from Uluru, in the Yulara township, and is ideally located to explore all the natural attractions in the Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park.

While the most luxurious accommodation in the Red Centre is Longitude 131° with its luxury tent accommodation, it doesn’t accept children under the age of 10. So the best option for families with young children is the five-star Sails in the Desert Hotel.

At Sails in the Desert, it does indeed feel like an oasis in what can sometimes be an unforgiving climate. We’re greeted with the sounds of a didgeridoo being expertly played by a local Indigenous man, as we make our way

Opposite:

through the impressive hotel gallery and gift shop of Indigenous art towards reception.

The staff are helpful and are all trained on the best options for their guests. I had arrived expecting to use the complimentary resort shuttle bus and take day trips to Uluru, but after chatting to the team on reception, I learned the better option for my family was to hire a car. I’d recommend this for other families with young children. After paying the entrance fee to the National Park, which is valid for three days, you can come and go as you please. If required, a child car seat can be fitted to your car. As it can naturally be hot and there are no food facilities in the National Park, I found making shorter morning and afternoon trips to the National Park, while heading back to the comfort of Sails in the Desert during lunchtime, was incredibly family-friendly.

In our hotel room, Indigenous art adorns the wall with Aboriginal motifs in the carpet, bed spreads and soft furnishings. Notes to guests emphasise that we are indeed in a very special and distinct environment, reminding us that the region’s natural flora and fauna are protected by law. If any insects or uninvited guests find their way to our room, we’re told to contact reception.

The breakfast buffet soon became the hotel highlight for my kids. Every possible breakfast food imaginable is seem-

Clockwise from top left: Ilkari Restaurant; room exteriors at Sails in the Desert; and comfortable interiors; the resort's pool.

Bruce Munro's Field Of Light

“Internationally acclaimed British artist [Bruce] Munro has set the fields of Uluru twinkling with no less than 50,000 slender LED coloured lights that bloom like a field of flowers”

ingly on offer to cater to the large number of international guests – from sushi to pastries. I was more impressed with the evening meals at Walpa Lobby Bar. The green curry was beautifully fragrant with a zingy Thai tang, but I also couldn’t go past the lightly battered barramundi and chips, knowing the fish, from Northern Australia, would be fresh.

We visited in the thick of the Australian winter in June, but that didn’t stop the kids enjoying the inviting heated outdoor pool. It has three zones – the regular pool with a large deep end, a hot water zone and a shallow wading zone for babies and toddlers. I order a glass of rosé from the Pira Pool Bar and watch as the kids splash about in the water and try to outdo each other with underwater handstands.

As fun as frolicking in the water might be, we haven’t come all this way to be poolside flops on the blue and white striped towels. The management understands this and provides useful access to information about visiting

Uluru and Kata Tjuga (The Olgas) – the real stars of the show. Daily at reception, there is a display of sunrise and sunset times over Uluru, which is helpful for planning your morn-

ing and afternoon activities – because frankly, seeing the sun kiss good morning or turn her back on Uluru at dusk are must-dos. There are a number of ways in which to enjoy your sunset or sunrise vistas of the rock; you can head out to Uluru on a camel tour, a Harley Davidson or take a guided 10.6-kilometre (3.5-hour) base walk. We drive out to the sunrise viewing platform. As we head closer and closer to the rock before taking the turn-off to the sunrise vantage point, there’s an air of total amazement and awe coming from all of us. “Look at it kids, isn’t it amazing?” I shriek as our car hugs the turns in the road and my son films occasional moments on my phone. Although they had studied the rock at school, nothing had prepared them for its sheer scale. At one point, as the car approaches, Uluru takes up the entire view from our dashboard, rising like an enormous earthy red sandstone 348mhigh tidal wave, frozen in time. The car park is full as we ascend the spinifex-lined path, and there’s only a handful of deck spaces left from which to view the sunrise. As the colours change and a pinky orange hue warms the rock, there’s an air of silence and appreciation

– the only sound the hundreds of camera clicks and the chirping of birds and native fauna as they greet another day in the outback.

The cultural centre is well worth visiting before attempting any base walks or getting up close to the rock for the first time. It provides a comprehensive understanding of the local Pitjantjatjara Anangu culture. Uluru is a sacred site to the Anangu people and climbing the rock is strongly discouraged.

Kata Tjuta, or The Olgas, is a 50km drive from Uluru and worth the trip. It too has sunrise and sunset viewing stations and a series of Valley of the Winds walks ranging from moderate to difficult. Kata Tjuta means ‘many heads’ in the local language. We enjoyed stopping regularly to view up close some of the numerous native floras.

The reception area at Voyages Sails in the Desert contains useful tour information to plan your trip. A visit to the Wintjiri Arts and Museum shows the work of local artists including paintings and jewellery. We take in the free cultural movie at the Mani-Mani Indigenous Cultural Theatre where in 45 minutes, my children learn about Aboriginal culture and its traditional

KATRINA HOLDEN

laws and customs – and I witness a true sense of respect begin to emerge from them. My nineyear-old-son, normally an avid rock collector, knows not to take so much as a small pebble from this place, as it is offensive to the traditional owners.

For a night out, enquire about the Tali Wiru experience. Dining under the southern desert sky, the open-air restaurant seats no more than 20 guests and has magical views over Uluru and in the distance, Kata Tjuta. It’s an adults-only experience but you can book a babysitting service at Sails in the Desert. Tali Wiru operates nightly from April until midOctober.

For evening activities that suit all members of the family, the Family Astro Tour is a fasci-

after-dark floriade. Internationally acclaimed British artist Munro has set the fields of Uluru twinkling with no less than 50,000 slender LED coloured lights that bloom like a field of flowers. With young children, you can take the basic two-hour journey – I’d advise taking a torch and rugging up. To see Field of Light in style, try either the ‘Night at Field of Light’ which includes entrance, canapés and drinks, a cultural performance and a three-course meal overlooking the lights; alternatively to extend this dining experience and to see the lights from above, take a ‘Night at Field of Light by Heli’ tour which includes the dinner but also a 30 minute Uluru and Kata Tjuta helicopter tour.

As we leave after our four-day stay, our suitcases heavier with hand-painted boomerangs

Opposite page: Children will love exploring Australia's Red Centre; Sails in the Desert at dusk.

Below: Katrina Holden and her family at Uluru.

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THAI DELIGHT

WHEN IT COMES TO HEALTH AND WELLNESS, THAILAND REMAINS AT THE FOREFRONT OF PURE BLISS, WRITES Kelly Jane Gabriel .

Thailand has to be one of the top locations in the world for health and wellness experiences. I’ve visited more than a dozen times and am yet to find another country that provides the highest level of luxury and hospitality combined with a multitude of treatments from toptier therapists at very reasonable prices. But with so many resorts to choose from, how do you determine what is right for you? Are you looking to detox, be pampered, lose weight, enhance your yoga practice, or all of the above?

I’m staying in Phuket at the newly rebranded Amatara Wellness Resort retreat in Cape Panwa. Formerly The Regent, Amatara Wellness Resort recently launched a range of wellness programs and a stunning Thai hammam. If you are new to hammam, think traditional Turkish and Moroccan bathing rituals combined with the luxury of Thai spa therapies.

There are several options to consider when choosing a wellness program, but after hearing rumours of just how good the food is, I decide to pass on a detox that restricts what I can eat and instead indulge in a spa retreat. During my five-day stay I am treated to daily massages, scrubs, body wraps, a manicure and pedicure, a cooking class and the Thai hammam experience. For those who wish to raise the heart rate, never fear, there are also several fitness classes offered throughout the day, scheduled nicely between treatment times.

I arrive in the evening following an easy direct flight from Sydney. I am met at the airport by an Amatara representative sporting a beaming smile, and am taken to an awaiting van for the 45-minute drive. The luxury transfer has an iPad, WiFi, several movie options and cold drinks. Already I feel completely at ease.

The check-in process is efficient and I am soon whisked away by buggy to my room, although the word room is an understatement. I am staying in a 150-square-metre Ocean View Pool Villa. With vaulted ceilings, marble floors, dark timber and sliding glass doors that lead to a private pool and patio, this villa is very impressive. The bathroom is huge and features an oversized free-standing circular tub. The complimentary mini bar is stocked with healthy snacks, coconut water and even a few alcoholic beverages. There is also a generous eight items of clothing laundered per day and a 24-hour butler service.

On my first day I am twisted like a pretzel during the morning yoga class. The instructor, Uttam, is from Rishikesh in India, known as the yoga capital of the world. Let’s just say the yoga is a lot stronger than the class I take in Sydney. It’s challenging, but I love it and I know that I am in the safest of hands.

“During my five-day stay I am treated to daily massages, scrubs, body wraps, a manicure and pedicure, a cooking class and the Thai hammam experience”

Clockwise from top left: Bedroom in the Ocean Pavilion; morning yoga class; the Turkish and Moroccan-inspired Thai Hammam; bathtub in the Premier Sea View room.

After attending practice every morning, by the end of the week I have confidently achieved the headstand on my own – I know yoga is not supposed to be about ego, but deep down I’m feeling pretty good.

After yoga I wander to the spa and meet Yana, my wellness consultant. After a few necessary health checks we discuss what I would like to gain from my time at the retreat. Following my consultation I meet with the physiotherapist who masterfully assesses my posture and alignment, teaches me some exercises and shows me some stretches I can use to alleviate the tightness in my shoulders.

I have decided I want to experience as much of the retreat’s diverse offerings as possible so Yana kindly helps to organise my daily treatments so I can fit yoga, meditation, Muay Thai boxing, fitness ball movement classes, and a bike tour in during my stay.

The bike ride is a highlight and a great way to immerse yourself among the locals going about their daily life. My guide and I ride for about two hours through several villages. We explore the local markets, stop to watch a band of wild monkeys causing trouble overhead, and pass by some men who have set up a small cockfighting venue on the side of the road. There is a bike lane the entire way and the bikes are good quality, which makes for easy riding.

The resort has a private beach overlooking the calm, clear waters of the Andaman Sea, which makes for the perfect place to relax in the afternoon. You can borrow a kayak, try your luck at stand-up paddle boarding, or simply relax on one of the extremely comfortable sunbeds.

With three restaurants on site you are guaranteed to find what you’re in the mood for, whether it’s traditional Thai at The Restaurant, organic free-range grilled beef, fish, pork, chicken, or seafood at The Grill, or healthy cuisine at The Retreat. Executive chef Justine Bazuik has worked in renowned restaurants around the world including Dubai, Australia, and Singapore. Part of my personal objective was to try to stay healthy so I ate most of my meals at The Retreat. Thankfully, the portion sizes were generous and I never once felt deprived. Breakfast was usually house-made probiotic rich yogurt with local honey and organic fruit, and buckwheat soba noodles with a smoky chicken broth and Asian vegetables.

There were several healthy juice and smoothie options on the menu and, of course, being in Thailand I also enjoyed coconut water straight from the source – nature’s best hydrator.

Lunch was chargrilled octopus on a bed of quinoa with the best gazpacho soup I have ever tasted (so good I eagerly ordered it everyday). Dinners are equally as delicious; Tasmanian salmon with buckwheat noodles, or if you’re indulging, you can’t beat the Wagyu striploin with truffle French fries at The Grill. I’m no steak expert but I know enough to realise this cut of beef was seriously special.

The high point of the retreat for me was the Thai hammam. A recent addition, this huge underground area is drop-dead gorgeous and features tiles imported from Italy, pink sea salt bricks sourced from high in the Himalayas, gold and crystal chandeliers, and enormous slabs of European marble. Built by Bulgarian craftsmen, the three king-sized heated marble tables are like nothing I have ever experienced. The 165-minute treatment includes a sauna, steam, Moroccan black soap skin scrub with an authentic hammam kessa glove (intense but not painful), shampoo and conditioning treatment, thermal mud therapy, hot and cold showers, Himalayan salt cave therapy and a relaxing massage to top it off. Honestly, my skin looked and felt incredible and I was in such a deep state of bliss that I ended up cancelling the whole afternoon’s activities, instead opting to settle in on the library couch before enjoying a delicious high tea.

I will happily keep searching the globe for the best wellness retreats, but for now I think Thailand holds the winning spot, and Amatara Wellness Resort is certainly making a name for itself.

Rates at Amatara Wellness Resort Phuket start from THB10,400 (about A$391) per night for a Premier Sea View room and from THB27,040 (about A$1017) for an Ocean View Pool Villa. Wellness packages include accommodation and treatments with rates starting from THB58,500 (about A$2201) for a three-night package. The five-night Spa Revive package starts from THB95,500 (about A$3594). amataraphuket.com

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REFRESHING BEVERAGE

THE RESTAURANT

“With three restaurants on site you are guaranteed to find what you’re in the mood for whether it’s traditional Thai at The Restaurant, organic free range grilled beef, fish, pork, chicken, or seafood at The Grill or healthy cuisine at The Retreat”

FINE DINING

AT HOME AMONG THE GUMTREES

YOU NEEDN’T TRAVEL FAR FROM SYDNEY’S CBD TO ESCAPE THE CITY BUZZ. Kaitlin Allen DISCOVERS THE CALMING EFFECT OF BILLABONG RETREAT.

Irise with the sun at 6am and wander over to the timber treehouse-inspired room perched on the edge of the water. Rolling out my yoga mat, I salute the sun and begin my practice. Gazing at the lily pads bobbing in the water, and the fuchsia lotus flowers emerging to catch the first rays of light, I notice that others have the same idea as me. I spot guests strolling around the billabong, they too are looking for a peaceful spot to wake up and begin their day.

This is what my typical morning is like at Billabong Retreat, a secluded escape less than an hour’s drive from Sydney, but far enough away from city life. As much as I usually love to wake up by the ocean, it is refreshing and grounding to be surrounded by native bushland, with the billabong being the ideal alternative for that invigorating swim to begin the day.

There are no rules or set schedules here, just peace and quiet with the option to join any activity or class on offer, curl up in a comfy chair on the balcony or indulge in a spa treatment.

Guests dine together on the balcony overlooking the property, all in a very casual and easy manner. Meals are served buffet-style, with a delicious spread of curries, soups and hearty salads prepared by chef Angie Cowen. Every meal is gluten -free and vegetarian, using local and organic produce. There’s even a cookbook for sale written by Angie in which she shares her nourishing recipes and secrets.

The yoga and meditation classes are definitely to be experienced, with one or two classes scheduled in the morning, and one in the afternoon, followed by an evening meditation and breathing class. I join in for the mid-morning yoga that is suited for all levels. This class takes us back to the basics and even teaches some of the history of yoga. It is a smooth, flowing class that leaves me feeling stretched out and blissful.

After an afternoon swim in the billabong I feel ready to embark on a little journey outside the property on the complimentary bikes. There’s a quiet circuit that winds around the property passing horse farms and beautiful bushland. It’s mostly downhill, but there’s one steep incline towards the end that will get your heart pumping if you’re up for it.

During the day guests also have the option of lounging around the communal outdoor living space, complete with a wood-burning stove, an ample range of books and magazines to read, and cosy couches and lounge chairs. I find myself dozing off to sleep after swimming in the magnesium

solar-heated pool. The live music is another way to relax; guests gather around the guitar, some reading, some resting, but all are entranced by the ambient sounds.

If you’re after something more than relaxation, there’s cooking classes with Angie, guest speakers answering your questions on nutrition and naturopathy, mandala drawing, and inspirational movies shown in the evening. For me, it was the tranquillity of the surrounds that made this the perfect escape. Billabong Retreat epitomises serenity. Everyone just seems to be enjoying their space, whether they’re bathing in the sun or reading their book on the balcony. My tip would be to book a room with an outdoor bathtub. The large clawfoot tub is set on the verandah and the highlight of my visit was a hot rainwater Epsom salt soak in the privacy of my treehouse, beneath the gumtrees.

Rates for a Deluxe Cabin at Billabong Retreat start from A$500 a night for one person or A$700 a night for two. Rates include accommodation, all meals, drinks and snacks, twice daily yoga, meditation and retreat programs. billabongretreat.com.au

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Clockwise from top: Outdoor meditation; nourishing breakfast offerings; the outdoor bathtub in the Deluxe Cabin; treetop lounge area.

PURI BLISS

DESPITE YEARS AS A TOURIST HOTSPOT, JIMBARAN BAY HAS RETAINED ITS CHARM. THAT CHARM IS EMPHASISED AT THE BELMOND JIMBARAN PURI.

BY Siobhan Plowman .

Located on the tip of Bali’s southern coast lies the tranquil Jimbaran Bay, a region famous for its picturesque sunsets, exquisite seafood and swathe of luxury hotels and resorts. Only 15 minutes from Bali’s Ngurah Rai International Airport, this fishing villageturned getaway hotspot is popular with tourists but somehow retains its charming sense of local community and character – aided by the bustling markets teeming with fresh produce and the traditional Jukung fishing boats that decorate the water.

Situated along the scenic Jimbaran Beach and removed from the bustle of the town, the Belmond Jimbaran Puri is one of the few resorts with direct beachfront access. Featuring 64 secluded villas and cottages, the resort oozes the feeling of a tranquil Balinese village with its thatched roofs, lotus ponds and lush gardens. The traditional Balinese architecture is supplemented by touches of understated luxury, with polished marble and wood floors, teak furnishings and high ceilings. Every room offers ample space, with the master bedroom and the living area housed in separate pavilions, surrounded by a private garden. For even more luxury, upgrade to one of the one or two-bedroom pool villas, which feature their own sunken pool and private terrace.

The warm and welcoming staff cater to your every need – wake up to daily fresh fruit and bottled water, and enjoy complimentary afternoon tea served in the privacy of your villa. Try your hand at tai chi, Balinese dance

or cooking with one of the many classes on offer; relax on the beach with a private massage; or soak up the sunset views with a cocktail by the water. If you’re seeking a dose of culture, immerse yourself in the local fish markets or visit the nearby shrines and temples, including the iconic Uluwatu temple. If these aren’t adventurous enough, activities such as mountain biking, trekking and white-water rafting can easily be arranged via the hotel concierge.

The resort has several dining options including beachfront restaurant Nelayan, which offers fresh Mediterranean-style cuisine and daily signature dishes. For something more intimate, guests can sample a private fourcourse dinner in a secluded spot on the beach or in their villa, prepared by a personal chef.

Rates start from A$840 for a Garden View Cottage Suite. belmond.com/jimbaran-puri-bali/

l RECOMMENDED READING

LOVE AND DEATH IN BALI

by Vicky Baum

Set against the backdrop of the Dutch invasion of Bali just over a century ago, and the resulting “mass suicides” of the Balinese royalty, Love and Death in Bali uses the tales of ordinary people to tell the bloody story of the conquest and subjugation of an island paradise. tripfiction.com/books/love-death-bali/

Clockwise from top: Villa at Belmond Jimbaran Puli; bedroom details; villa lounge.

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LOVE AT FIRST BITE

NEWLY RENOVATED, SPICERS SANGOMA RETREAT IS A PEACEFUL HAVEN WITH PLENTY TO OFFER, NOT LEAST OF ALL THE MEMORABLE CUISINE, WRITES Gary Allen .

August saw the relaunch of Spicers Sangoma Retreat, following a sixmonth, multimillion-dollar refurbishment. The eco-retreat is a haven of eight suites in the Bowen Mountain township of New South Wales’ Blue Mountains and about an 80-minute drive from the CBD.

As part of the refurbishment, two new Escarpment Suites were constructed, designed by the original Spicers Sangoma architect with a view to keep the design language consistent across the property. In addition, the property now comprises three Bush Suites and a Lodge, Chief’s and Tent suite, plus a lounge and dining space, outdoor space with fire pit, infinity lap pool, tented spa and sauna.

The open-plan suites at Spicers Sangoma Retreat have been designed to exist in harmony with the natural surroundings, with large windows revealing the bush setting beyond. The Escarpment, Bush and Chief’s suites each comprise a lounge area, private balcony and bathroom with two-person Philippe Starck bathtub. The Escarpment Suites are the largest option, while the two-level Chief’s suite

offers an upstairs bedroom with panoramic views and a private plunge pool. The Bush Suites feature African-themed décor, and The Lodge Suite is located in the main lodge with a north-east outlook and has a separate lounge area. We spent the night in the Tent Suite, which was glamping at its best. Beneath the canvas canopy was timber flooring, a king-sized bed, freestanding bath and even a large crystal chandelier. Relaxing on the lounge in front of our wood-burning stove in the evening, with the sounds of nature all around us, was a spectacular way to end the day. And just as wonderful was an early morning bath in the giant tub with the sliding doors wide open looking out onto the bushland.

Spicers Sangoma Retreat is an all-inclusive getaway, with dining taken care of by head chef Sam Hardinge. The menu features dishes made from fresh, organic and locally sourced seasonal produce. Dinner is a set menu of four courses that changes each night, and guests can dine out under the stars during the warmer months. After my first bite of the main course – a slow roasted braised pork neck with chili fennel, red shiso, and buffalo milk – I

Above from left: The Spicers Sangoma Retreat pool. Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Delicious dining; the lounge area; Tent Suite interior; Spicers Sangoma Retreat exterior; the restaurant.

“The open-plan suites at Spicers Sangoma Retreat have been designed to exist in harmony with the natural surroundings, with large windows revealing the bush setting beyond”

did something I have never done. I jumped up and walked straight over to the kitchen to tell Sam that was the best thing I have ever tasted – in my life! I’m not exaggerating. I would drive to Sangoma for just one bite of that pork – it was absolutely incredible. When not relaxing or indulging in a meal or massage treatment, guests can embark on nature walks, mountain biking and visits to nearby Blue Mountains attractions. For something a bit different, how about a bird’s eye view of the Blue Mountains? Book a helicopter flight with Sydney Helicopters and they will pick you up on the helipad located on the lawn at Sangoma. We spent nearly half an hour soaring over the treetops checking out rivers, valleys and waterfalls – it makes you realise just how vast the area really is.

Rates start from A$1099 per night. spicersretreats.com/spicers-sangoma-retreat

IF YOU GO DOWN TO THE WOODS

Located just outside Rotorua, in Maori heartland, Treetops Lodge is known for its hunting and trout fishing. With seven trout streams and game reserves, it is set in over 2500 hectares of native forest that is more than 800 years old: think scenes from Jane Campion’s gothic film

The Piano. We arrive at the entrance of Treetops Lodge – which has stone walls, wrought iron gates, and is guarded by statues of deer – after an easy three-hour drive from Auckland. We enter an autumn-coloured, tree-lined road before winding up through green hills on dirt roads, following the signs for the lodge.

We manage to detach the toddlers from feeding the goldfish in the ponds either side of the paved entrance to the main lodge. The huge wooden entrance doors are intricately carved and lead into the lounge room with soaring cathedral ceilings, inspired by traditional Maori buildings. On either side of this room are metre-deep stone open fires. If the weather turns foul, everything you need to relax is indoors: an extensive library, a billiard table, huge open fireplaces, and lots of great nooks for children to play hide and seek. There is a for-

mal dining room and a charming conservatory with floor-to-ceiling glass doors and windows that open on to the gardens. The wood for all the exquisitely built lodges and villas at Treetops has been felled from the surrounding land.

There are five in our party, including two toddlers, and we are accommodated in adjoining villas separate from the main lodge. The villas are constructed to the highest standards and finished with comfortable, elegant and hospitable furniture in a warm, natural colour scheme. Open fireplaces, leather armchairs, French doors opening onto paved terraces overlooking the hills, spa baths, walk in wardrobes and in–room dining all add to the sense of luxury. There was also a great choice of board games, DVDs and books for when we got rained in.

Treetops has Michelin-star chefs on staff and superb degustation meals featuring produce from the estate included game meats of venison, buffalo, and wild pig. Customary Maori ingredients such as peppery horopito are harvested from the kitchen garden (organic and pesticide free) and incorporated into meals. Don’t miss the Estate to Plate Safari where the chefs show you where

traditional ingredients are harvested and explain the traditional medicinal qualities. Game and seafood served at Treetops all come from the estate. Guests are taken out in four-wheel drives and have the opportunity to view wild deer and buffalo, and see the manuka honey aviaries. The safari is concluded with a half day spent at the Wild Food Cooking School.

Treetops now offers a five-star kids program with options such as horse-riding, mountain biking, clay bird shooting and a fly-fishing tutorial. The highlight for our little ones was seeing the horses roaming around the property and the opportunity to get up close for a pat. Our stay was too short and we look forward to returning to experience some of the other exciting activities on offer such as archery and trout fishing, or simply exploring some of the many walking trails through the forest.

Bed and breakfast rates start from NZ$956 (about A$900) per couple, per night. treetops.co.nz

BOASTING NATURAL FINISHES AND ACTIVE EXPERIENCES, TREETOPS LODGE IS AT ONE WITH ITS NATIVE-FOREST SURROUNDINGS. BY Beatrice Spence.

THE DINING ROOM

THE GREAT HALL

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SOLITUDE IN THE CITY

Nestled in the landscape of Panwa Peninsula overlooking the Andaman Sea, Sri Panwa is a secluded 52-villa resort spread across 40 acres of tropical rainforest. Manicured paths wind throughout the lush grounds, the roads catering to the personal tuk tuk service that transports guests throughout the resort’s facilities.

Due to the enormity of the site, Sri Panwa is being built in phases, with the newly opened Habita an enclave of 30 luxury suites and penthouses, restaurants and an Olympic-size outdoor infinity pool.

Wan Issara manages the property; a vivacious family oriented man whose enthusiasm is reflected in the beautiful team of young staff. Issara’s vision is that of a party paradise, the fivestar resort hosting weekly live music events and attracting a clientele of high-profile celebrities, the Thai Royal family and, during my visit, the cast of the reality television shows WAGS who were in residence filming a marriage proposal.

On my first morning there I woke to the sun bursting through the panoramic windows of the Tiger Villa. Designed to resemble private

houses, the villas contain two separate living spaces each furnished with an abundance of daybeds and traditional handcrafted furnishings. The vibe is sophisticated tropical paradise. The grey stone floors encouraging guests to slip straight from bed into the infinity pool that wrapped around the room and between the inroom sauna and outdoor rain shower, all set in the upmost of privacy. Music, you begin to notice, is a core element of the resort. Each room is enlivened with a funky beat and each villa fitted with a high quality sound system pre-loaded with playlists made by Sri Panwa’s resident DJs.

Breakfast each morning is hosted at Baba Pool Club, an outdoor maze of infinity pools and seating booths designed to give the illusion that the level is floating in mid air. Baba is the Thai word for blend and it is this concept of fusion that underpins Sri Panwa’s dining experiences. The recently completed Habita houses two of the eight on-site restaurants each specialising in a different cuisine. At Baba Hotbox the chefs grill meaty prawns the size of my fist on the specialty Spanish grill, affectionately referred to as “Josper”. In Baba Chino, Thai Iron Chef,

THAILAND Katie Milton SPENDS A FEW INDULGENT DAYS IN A SECLUDED CORNER OF PHUKET.

BABA SOUL

chef Pom, treated us to a tasting menu of modern Chinese featuring silken tofu and mushroom broth, and artfully crafted dumplings served in miniature bamboo steamers.

On my second morning, at sunrise yoga atop Baba Nest, dark clouds hovered menacingly over the sky and slight winds made me topple as I tried to balance in warrior three. Save for the chirruping birds the silence was meditative, but as we twisted in the slow hatha flow I could feel the sake from the night before sitting uneasily in my belly. Lucky for me I was scheduled in for a spa treatment.

Entering the newly refurbished Cool Spa was like stepping into a tranquil utopia. The open-air waiting room sat under a thatched roof, scented with soothing aromatic oils and surrounded by trees, infinity pools and rectangular ponds filled with lily pads. Even the light drizzle outside complimented the ambience. I was led down a staircase revealing the

multi-level spa and into a private glass walled room. My masseuse gently washed my feet in a warm water footbath before I entered and I felt all my worries exfoliated away with the buttery scrub. I began to doze as she began the Aromatic Thai oil massage, drifting off to the scent of lemongrass and the rushing sounds of the waterfall outside.

Sri Panwa is its own private bubble of paradise. The staff (who all live on the grounds) wander around in shorts and polo shirts with the trademark S on them, leaving little notes of affirmation on your pillow and brightening the resort with their renowned Thai hospitality. One employee, Moni, initially came to the resort on a holiday with her family and fell in love with Sri Panwa, so asked for a job there. It is, after all, the type of place you don’t want to leave.

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“Manicured paths wind throughout the lush ground, the roads catering to the personal tuk tuk service that transports guests throughout the resort's facilities”

Top left: Baba Nest. Clockwise from top right: Cool Spa; Josper the Spanish grill at Baba Hotbox; Baba Sunset Lounge; sushi at Baba IKI.

Rates at Sri Panwa start from THB15,200 (around A$571) per night. sripanwa.com

Out of the city I start to notice things. Stars at night, the freshness of the air; the way coconut trees, tall and thin, slant left with the wind. I begin to notice silence broken only by sounds like the waves crashing against the shore as I drift into sleep. At least, this is the case at the serene Saman Villas.

The 27-suite resort lies in Benota, Sri Lanka, about an hour and a half south of Colombo near a small fishing village called Athuruwella. Hugging the southwest coastline, the entire property is oriented toward spectacular ocean views with near-deserted beaches on either side. The five-star Saman Villas, which opened in 1995 and has been continually upgrading since, pioneered the luxury boutique concept in Sri Lanka and serves as an indulgent couples retreat. The resort even offers a range of specially tailored wedding packages on the grounds and surrounding beaches.

I am staying in a Deluxe Suite with a small grass courtyard and private infinity pool that looks out onto the choppy waters. The suite is on the ground level of a two-storey villa; the top floor occupied by a separately booked Superior Suite that looks down onto the courtyard. If you’d prefer exclusivity, the Saman Villa Suite gives guests private access to a villa with two levels of luxury.

Sunbeds by the pool, an outdoor terrace, tropical interiors and fresh frangipanis laid on the bed each morning and night combine to create the perfect island escape. But the real star of the suite is the open-air bathroom featuring a large white tub and lavish rainwater shower. Sunlight streaming directly onto my face, I indulge in a shower so long that my hands are pruned when I finally step out.

On my way to breakfast I walk through the outdoor reception and a woman in a traditional sari greets me. Hands together at her chest, she bows and says “Ayubowan”, a Sri Lankan greeting that wishes long life. The same greeting is given each time I pass. Saman Villas employs more than 100 staff and each of them is attentive, welcoming and skilled, and anticipate my every need.

Housed beneath a wooden roof on the headland, the restaurant lies at the heart of the property. The architecture has been modelled on Sri Lankan temples and the walls are retractable glass windows that, for the most part, remain entirely open. I’ve never been one

for solo travel – it’s the eating alone that makes me most uncomfortable – but at Saman Villas, overlooking the showpiece infinity pool that spills into the ocean below, I am not fazed. Private dining locations perched cliffside or over the main pool and lit by a path of lanterns are also available on request.

After two days here I have started to look forward to the daily three-course breakfasts. I forgo muesli and waffles and instead decide on kola kenda, a green Sri Lankan herbal porridge served with a cube of palm sugar to nibble on after each sip. This is followed by traditional

“Sunlight streaming directly onto my face, I indulge in a shower so long that my hands are pruned when I finally step out”

KATIE MILTON

egg hoppers, wispy, crepe-like bowls made from fermented rice flour, coconut milk, coconut water and a little sugar that have been fried in a wok with an egg cooked in the base. Small bowls of fish curry, dahl, and tempered spicy onion are served alongside, all of which I spoon generously into the crepe casing. While the restaurant serves a variety of Eastern, Western and traditional Sri Lankan cuisine, it’s finest is definitely it’s native.

The onsite Sahana Spa is set at the end of a boardwalk suspended above a water garden. I remove my shoes before I enter and am greeted at the blue-washed shutter doors by my masseuse. The two-villa treatment spa is spread between gardens and little ponds, stone pavers leading the way across water from the treatment room to the outdoor jacuzzi and day bed. I undress and lay down on the outdoor treatment bed, the spare bed beside me a subtle reminder that I am alone at a couple’s retreat.

Touted to relieve pain, increase memory, improve circulation and promote a feeling of wellbeing, I emerge 85 minutes later, floating. The blue lotus oil that has been massaged through my hair is made by Kemara, a local producer of organic healing solutions, and

Clockwise from left: Private dining location over the main pool; Deluxe Suite with a private pool; a visit to a Buddhist monastery on the day tour through Benota.

Opposite page, clockwise from top: Sahana Spa; Grand Deluxe Suite; Egg hoppers with fish curry, dahl and tempered onion.

seems to have worked its magic.

For guests who want to venture further than their lush villa and private pool, the team at Saman offers a variety of day tours and activities through the surrounding village and the UNESCO-listed heritage town Fort Galle. The stops on the tour are comprised of local tourist haunts like the Kosgoda Turtle Conservation Project and a moonstone mine garden. The cars are sourced from local transport providers. On a bike ride through the lush marshlands of Athuruwella my guide points out the local village school which Saman Villas has made numerous donations to, including English training programs, computer facilities and fabric for school uniforms.

Herein lies Saman Villas’ true beauty; its operational model, not entirely self-serving but rather based on a symbiotic relationship with the village community in which it resides.

Rates for the Deluxe Suite with a pool start at US$474 (about A$620) per night. samanvilla.com

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“Sunbeds by the pool, an outdoor terrace, tropical interiors and fresh frangipanis laid on the bed each morning and night combine to create the perfect island escape”

KATIE MILTON

KATIE MILTON

LUXURY BY THE LAKE

RENOWNED FOR ITS WORLD-CLASS GOLF COURSE, THE LODGE AT THE KINLOCH CLUB DELIVERS PLENTY OF GRANDEUR BEYOND THE GREEN, TOO, DISCOVERS Kelly Jane Gabriel.

Nestled on one of the many bays of New Zealand’s famous Lake Taupo is the sleepy village of Kinloch; population 500. When embarking on a luxury getaway, this may not be the first destination on your must-do list, but with the opening of The Lodge at The Kinloch Club, it should be.

Expansive and sparse, The Lodge sits on 254 hectares and is home to the stunning Jack Nicklaus-designed golf course. The design and layout of The Lodge is extraordinary; the combination of modern villa and Scottish castle is exactly what award-winning New Zealand architect Andrew Patterson was asked to deliver.

Meanwhile, renowned designer Virginia Fisher has masterfully utilised textured interiors to engage your senses.

Equipped with a spa, bar, lounge, private den, dining area, and of course an incredible golf course, The Lodge is certainly well appointed. Future plans include a fitness centre, outdoor infinity pool, and a self-sustaining organic garden.

Ten villas are scattered around the property. In ours, nothing failed to impress. From the mini bar stocked with local ciders and chocolates, to the toiletries from local and sustainable brand Nellie Tier, everything was well considered and truly perfect.

In the morning light, views of the golf green from each villa are enough to convince even a novice to head out and hit a few balls. And although the club is renowned for its course, there is much more on offer, including premium dining.

The cuisine adheres to the ‘Estate to Plate’ philosophy, using organic products primarily from the owner’s private 2000-hectare estate. Each evening it is hard not to beeline for the best seat in the house, a table cut into the sidewall which offers a panoramic view of the course and the lake.

Kinloch is ideally located just a 20-minute drive to the main town of Lake Taupo, full

Clockwise from top left: The Jack Nicklaus-designed golf course; the Villa lounge area; picturesque views from the Villa bedroom.

of shops, restaurants and waterfront walking trails. Taupo is a hub for mountain bikers and adventure seekers and you must make a visit to the Huka Falls. Lake Taupo is also known for its natural hot springs while, in summer, lake activities are the more soughtout options.

What appealed most to me about The Lodge at The Kinloch Club was that although the estate is expansive, it offers guests such a bespoke luxury experience without detracting from the timeless charm of the Kinloch township.

Rates at The Lodge at The Kinloch Club start from NZ$1162 (about A$1126) per night for a Junior Suite. Rates for a one-bedroom villa start from NZ$1968 (about A$1907) per night. thekinlochclub.com/accommodation

See more on this story at luxurytravelmag.com.au

“In the morning light, views of the golf green from each villa are enough to convince even a novice to head out and hit a few balls”

Above: Scenic views from the bar.

Below from left: Head chef Jeremy Talbot; the beautifully lit walkway to reception.

Have you ever had a dream of soaring like an eagle along a snaking river system embraced by deep gorges that guide it towards the sea. Or imagine yourself walking a Kimberley wetland in the footsteps of a brolga where few white men have walked before you. Or quietly sitting in some of the oldest art galleries in the world reading the stories through art left by the tribes of yester years. Perhaps, dreamt of catching that elusive Barramundi. Wild swimming in the cool waters of a Kimberley Billabong. Watching the sunset at the end of the day listening to the sounds of silence. Pondering, a crystal clear night sky full of a million sparkling Kimberley diamonds while waiting for tomorrow. Tomorrow is today's dream....

Truenorth Helicopters would like to invite you to be part of this exclusive 8-day adventure. Our helicopter Safari is the ultimate way to see Australia’s unique, rugged and spectacular outback staying in a variety of award winning accommodation from eco-friendly cabins to luxury ocean villas.

The destinations are fantastic, and the hundreds of kilometres between them are filled with waterfalls, floodplains, crocodiles, buffalo, remote fishing holes, ancient art galleries and parts of Australia few have ever seen.

DARWIN. BULLO RIVER. EL QUESTRO. KIMBERLEY COASTAL CAMP. BERKELEY RIVER LODGE.

SUITE LIFE

COLLECTOR’S EDITION

After three years of remodelling, the Pulitzer Amsterdam recently reopened, revealing a revamped lobby, internal garden and gym as well as 145 new rooms and suites. The most visionary of the accommodation options are the four Collector’s Suites and the Pulitzer Suite, each featuring a private canalfacing street entrance.

Each Collector’s Suite is individually styled. An archway of stacked books line the doorway in the Book Collector’s Suite while the sitting room offers guests their own private library.

The Antique Collector’s Suite is filled with vintage pieces collected from local markets. The antiques in the suite are reflected in assorted mirrors adorning the walls.

The Art Collector's Suite fittingly displays a series of specially commissioned pieces, most notable is Thierry de Cromieres' Hals Brunch, a modern interpretation of the Last Supper. Also within is a colourful bar cart and golden chair in the shape of a hand.

The Music Collector’s Suite welcomes those who are ready for rhythm and features a trumpet-lined wall and a vintage record player for guests to create their own soundtracks.

The Pulitzer Suite is styled differently to the Collector’s Suites, and is designed with romance in mind. A highlight of the suite is a freestanding bath on marble flooring.

Nestled between the Prinsengracht and Keizersgracht canals, Pulitzer Amsterdam is in a prime location for those looking to explore the city’s rich history. The hotel is a brief walk from the Anne Frank House, Van Gogh Museum, Royal Palace of Amsterdam and other attractions.

BY ALYSSA GOVINDAN

Rates for the Pulitzer and Music Collector’s suites start from €645 (about A$920) per night. Rates for the Art, Antique and Book Collector’s suites start from €815 (about A$1,165) per night. pulitzeramsterdam.com

ANTIQUE COLLECTOR'S SUITE

THE PULITZER SUITE

Suite: Ultraroo

Size: 100 square metres

Price: Rates start at A$1275 per night.

Website: ovolohotels.com/en/hotels/sydney/ovolo-woolloomooloo/

Review by: Gary Allen

OVOLO WOOLLOOMOOLOO Sydney

WHY STAY HERE?

Ovolo Woolloomooloo should stand for “fun”. This is a hotel where it’s all about having a good time (and a sense of humour) –it’s definitely not your standard luxury hotel. Not far from Sydney’s Royal Botanic Gardens, and only a stroll from the CBD, the hotel is housed in the heritagelisted Finger Wharf building at Woolloomooloo. Inside, the staff are dressed in cool outfits, and the sounds of classic rock and dance music waft through the building. Beyond the reception desk is Lo Lounge, the hotel’s bar and social space. Look out for the billiards table and old-school arcade games like Centipede and Donkey Kong.

RISE AND SHINE BREAKFAST TIME

Breakfast is served at the back of Lo Lounge and there were several delicious options on offer. There was a full buffet where we could choose from Sonoma breads, T2 teas, smoked trout and salmon, cheeses, muesli and yoghurt. You can have breakfast cooked to order – I chose soft poached eggs with dukkah, labne, mushrooms, coriander and sumac oil.

WHAT’S FOR DINNER?

The dinner offering is casual lounge dining. Everything is prepared in-house and you might like to try spiced calamari with squid ink aioli, deboned and scallopfilled chicken wings with truffle

THE SUN DECK AND INDOOR HEATED POOL

mayonnaise, or something more substantial like the roasted Tinder Creek duck or grilled flank steak. Other options include sandwiches, share plates, cheeses and desserts.

Private dining is part of the hotel’s events offering and can be pre-booked by guest groups of 10 or more in advance of a stay. The chefs blew us away with their creations for our degustation dinner, including yuzu gel and sea grapes; roasted pork and scallop with squash puree and golf ball carrot; duck with rhubarb puree and toasted grains, and a dessert of blueberry, lavender cream and milk crisp. It was an absolute standout.

WOW FACTOR

We stayed in one of the hotel’s

Ultraroo suites and, for some real wow factor, ours was themed around Australian rock band INXS, complete with song lyrics “I need you tonight” emblazoned on the wall in bright neon light. Overall, the suite was impressive with a huge lounge area and a round bar stocked with scotch, gin, beer, wine and soft drinks – all complimentary. The bedroom is in the loft above, complete with a vanity with tea facilities, a desk and a fabulous bed.

COULD DO BETTER

I would have loved a big bathtub to relax in.

INSIDER TIP

If you’re not into INXS, there’s also an AC/DC-themed Ultraroo suite.

ULTRAROO SUITE

FINE DINING

BEDROOM SURPRISE

LO LOUNGE

INXS THEMED SUITE

GARY ALLEN

GARY

ALLEN

GARY ALLEN

CROWN TOWERS Melbourne

Suite: Premier Suite

Size: 70 square metres

Price: Rates start at A$668 per night

Website: crownmelbourne.com.au/hotels/crown-towers

Review by: Katie Milton

WHY STAY HERE?

Crown Towers Melbourne is located in the heart of the Melbourne CBD overlooking the Yarra River. The five-star hotel is within walking distance to Flinders Street Station and popular tourist spots like the National Gallery of Victoria, Federation Square and the Australian Centre for the Moving Image (ACMI). In 2015, Crown Towers

was voted Best Australian Hotel in Luxury Travel magazine’s annual Gold List awards; a well-deserved title considering the lavish resort facilities, grand architecture and delightful staff.

RISE AND SHINE BREAKFAST TIME

Guests staying in the Premier Suite have access to the Crystal Club Lounge where complimen-

tary breakfast is served each morning. A sophisticated buffet features smoked salmon, miniature jars of rhubarb and orange bircher muesli, platters of fresh fruit, fresh pastries and croissants, and selection of hot food. I ordered an eggwhite omelette with baby spinach and local mushrooms from the à la carte menu and our waiter brought us freshly squeezed orange juice.

WHAT’S FOR DINNER?

Crown Towers definitely isn’t short of fine-dining options. The hotel offers 24-hour room service and also houses some of Australia’s top restaurants. There’s Dinner by Heston Blumenthal with awardwinning chef Ashley Palmer-Watts,

fine-dining, modern Chinese restaurant Silks; the world-renowned Nobu for new-style Japanese; and the hatted Bistro Guillaume for French classics. The Waiting Room, the hotel's luxurious lobby bar, is the perfect place for classic cocktails and small plates.

TIME OUT

The Crown Spa was the perfect place to spend an overcast Melbourne Sunday. Located on the third floor, guests can select from a variety of massage, facial or salon treatments. We spent the day lounging in a cabana by the 25-metre indoor pool and relaxing in the Aqua Retreat which features a hammam steam room and vitality pool.

THE LOBBY

WOW FACTOR

The sheer grandeur of the hotel blew me away; high ceilings, marble and stone colonnades, magnificent chandeliers and gorgeously plush furnishings combine to create true indulgence. Much to the credit of the attentive staff, it’s a luxury hotel you can relax in.

I WOULD LIKE AN UPGRADE

At 174 square metres, the Tower Suite contains two large bedrooms, two bathrooms and a separate lounge and dining area. Even more luxurious are The Villas, located on the 30th and 31st floors. Measuring 130 square metres, the deluxe one-bedroom villas offer guests a penthouse experience.

CRYSTAL CLUB LOUNGE

INTERCONTINENTAL SINGAPORE

Suite: Premier Suite

Square metre size: 52 square metres

Price: Rates start at SGD 570 (about A$535) per night

Website: singapore.intercontinental.com

Review by: Katie Milton

WHY STAY HERE?

Occupying a prime position in the heart of the arts and heritage districts, and just a short walk from the central business district and the buzzing Marina Bay, Intercontinental Singapore is the perfect base for any luxury traveller. The five-star hotel has recently undergone a multi-million dollar refurbishment with upgrades to all 338 guestrooms and suites in the main tower. The result features elegantly opulent interiors, impeccable ser-

vice and residential-style suites that feel more homely than a hotel.

RISE AND SHINE BREAKFAST TIME

Guests staying in the Premier Suite have access to Club Intercontinental where complimentary breakfast is served each morning. The à la carte menu offers Western breakfast options as well as Asian dishes like Chinese congee and Japanese bento. This is accompanied by an extensive buffet with everything from cereals, decadent pastries,

cheeses and cold cuts to a selfservice fridge with freshly bottled juices and assorted yoghurts. Alternately there is a buffet at European restaurant Ash & Elm where guests can walk into the open kitchen and request their egg order from the chefs.

WHAT’S FOR DINNER?

At the newly revamped Ash & Elm, European cuisine is prepared in three live culinary theatres; a charcuterie and cheese room, a woodfired oven and an open charcoalgrill kitchen. Man Fu Yuan is the hotel’s long-established contemporary Chinese restaurant. Helmed by executive Chinese chef Kwan Yiu Kan, the rich menu features a tea-pairing service designed to complement the dining experience. Light meals and share plates are also served in Victoria Bar and the

Lobby Lounge along with cocktails and live music.

TIME OUT

While the hotel has no spa, the outdoor pool is perfect for escaping the sticky Singapore humidity. I spent a relaxing afternoon before my flight enjoying the complimentary high tea in the Intercontinental Lounge. I hear the Royal Heritage Afternoon Tea beneath the exquisite chandeliers in the Lobby Lounge – the showpiece of the hotel – is also delightful.

WOW FACTOR

From the traditional shophouse living experience recreated in the Heritage Wing rooms to the digital-cut motifs of Peranakaninspired prints in the carpet; the history of the Peranakan culture and the surrounding Bugis precinct

HOTEL LOBBY

is embedded into the design of the entire hotel. Most notable is the Concierge Lounge that has been modelled on the design of a Peranakan living room. This inviting extension of the concierge features plush lounges, a specially commissioned Danielle Solk artwork and cabinets filled with items that represent the history of the local area. For Intercontinental Singapore, just like the Peranakan people, this lounge is where the hotel’s hospitality begins.

I WOULD LIKE AN UPGRADE

At 259 square metres, the Presidential Suite is the most luxurious lodging option at Intercontinental Singapore. Located on the 16th floor, the suite features high ceilings, floor-to-ceiling windows, a study, grand dining room, in-room sauna and the option to expand to a two-bedroom residence.

VIEW FROM THE PREMIER SUITE

ASH & ELM

THE LOBBY LOUNGE

LOBBY LOUNGE DINING

SINGAPORE AMBASSADOR SUITE LIVING AREA

KATIE MILTON

SO SOFITEL BANGKOK

Suite: SO Suite

Size: Between 75 and 94 square metres

Price: from THB13,200 (about A$495) per night

Website: so-sofitel-bangkok.com

Review by: Gary Allen

WHY STAY HERE?

SO Sofitel Bangkok is cool, colourful and vibrant. The hotel has a great positive vibe about it… and it’s five-star and luxurious. Located right in central Bangkok and across the street from Lumpini Park, it’s a convenient base to access everything in the city with sky train and subway stations close by. It’s a hotel for someone looking for a non-traditional place to stay with a cool, youthful vibe. French fashion designer Christian Lacroix was instrumental in the design and feel of the hotel, so be ready for colour and fun. The SO Suite features Monsieur Lacroix’s touches throughout. Styled for either the earth or water elements, the SO Suites feature a bedroom, ensuite and a living

space, and include free WiFi, minibar and iPad for guest use.

RISE AND SHINE BREAKFAST TIME

Breakfast was served at Red Oven on the hotel’s seventh floor. The restaurant offers a market-style buffet with an array of dining options from various culinary traditions. Light, bright and colourful with high ceilings, it’s hard to have a quick breakfast here – you’ll want to try everything. If you so choose, you can also sit outside on the huge deck overlooking the park and the city.

WHAT’S FOR DINNER?

Adelaide-born Paul Smart is at the helm as executive chef at SO Sofitel Bangkok. Red Oven is an all-day dining venue, and on the

DINING AT SO SOFITEL BANGKOK

HI-SO ROOFTOP BAR

29th floor is Park Society, the hotel’s rooftop restaurant and bar, featuring modern Western cuisine with city views. The entire 10th floor of the hotel is occupied by The Water Club, a poolside bar that serves cocktails and light meals, and on the 30th floor, the HI-SO rooftop bar is a lively space with skyline views.

TIME OUT

SO Spa is on the 11th floor and is a wellbeing centre designed with inspiration from the legendary Himmapan Forest from Thai mythology. Think wood furnishings and plants – it is beautiful and amazing. The spa has everything you

can think of for healing and nourishing your face and body. If you’re a spa junkie you can stay in a SO Suite Spa room – there are three in the hotel and each features a private ensuite treatment space.

WOW FACTOR

The wow factor is in the hotel’s interior design. Common areas, like Red Oven, draw inspiration from the fire element, while different rooms display interiors representative of earth, metal, water and wood. Each element was handled by a different Thai designer.

COULD DO BETTER

I loved this hotel. It was very easy

to relax and spend not just the day but evenings here too. I enjoyed just exploring the hallways filled with artwork and different lighting effects. I really don’t know where they could improve as I think they are doing it right.

I WOULD LIKE AN UPGRADE

The one-bedroom SO Lofty Suites range from 95 to 120 square metres and have the added luxury of an in-room private bar, while the SO VIP duplex suite is 223 square metres and has views over Lumpini Park, a master bedroom taking up the whole upper floor, and a separate guest bedroom and dining area.

INSIDER TIP

With the heat of Bangkok, make use of the infinity pool on the 10th floor. It can be a bit of a scene on weekend nights but it is great to have an afternoon dip and drinks at The Water Club. Also, if you’re staying in a suite, you have access to Club Signature located on the 25th floor. Designed by Christian Lacroix and Pongthep Sagulku from August Design, it’s a colourful and luxurious lounge with complimentary breakfast, snacks, refreshments and evening cocktails in a private club-like atmosphere. And one last thing: seek out Chocolab, located on the ground floor in the lower lobby. It’s a chocolate delicatessen – need I say more?

M IS FOR MEMORABLE

WITH 85 HOTELS AROUND THE WORLD, ACCORHOTELS’ MGALLERY COLLECTION IS COMMITTED TO DELIVERING MEMORABLE MOMENTS WITH A NICHE.

Walter Lindrum is considered by many to be the world’s greatest ever snooker player.

Resplendent in a dark suit with a bow tie and waist coat, his silky skills and poise over the billiard table became legendary.

Lindrum held the world billiard championship from 1933 until he retired in 1950 and created 57 world records for the fastest and biggest breaks in the game. After quitting competitive snooker, he toured the world performing exhibition matches.

Sadly, he passed away in 1960, but his legacy lives on at Melbourne’s Hotel Lindrum, which has all the style and class of its namesake.

Hotel Lindrum is at the MCG end of Flinders Street and is housed in the same redbrick heritage building where Walter’s niece, Dolly, once ran Lindrum’s snooker hall.

One of the full-size tables from the hall, beautifully restored, takes pride of place in the hotel.

The luxury property is part of AccorHotels’ boutique hotel collection called MGallery by Sofitel. There are 85 MGallery hotels around the world, in 23 countries. Each has its

Opposite

BY Robert Upe

own history and personality and an exclusive experience called a ‘Memorable Moment’.

At Hotel Lindrum, that ‘Memorable Moment’ is playing snooker.

Hotel general manager Michelle Bradshaw says some guests stay just for the table. But if you see yourself as bit of a pool shark, the experience gets even better.

“As part of our ‘Memorable Moment’ package we have also arranged for triple word billiards champion Robby Foldvari to host private lessons for guests, followed by a degustation dinner in the Felt restaurant,” Bradshaw says.

Second row: Mount Lofty House, South Australia; Felt Restaurant at Hotel Lindrum, Melbourne

Other ‘Memorable Moments’ in the hotel group include whiskey and chocolate tasting at Brisbane’s New Inchcolm Hotel and Suites; helicopter rides at Hotel St Moritz in New Zealand; candlelit rooftop dinners with a string quartet at the Harbour Rocks Hotel overlooking Sydney Harbour; and morning yoga sessions at Elements of Byron, located on the eastern-most point of Australia and the first place to see sunrise in the country.

Elements of Byron is the most recent addition to the MGallery portfolio, opening in Byron Bay at the start of the year. The

Above: The entrance to St Ermin's Hotel, London.

top row from left: Relaxing massage at The Reef House, Palm Cove; Harbour Rocks Hotel, Sydney; Hotel Baltimore Paris Champs Elysées; Hotel St Moritz, Queenstown.

$100 million resort is set on 22 hectares of beachfront and has 94 villas in native bush.

The resort’s lagoon pool is a stunning centrepiece, surrounded by bures and hanging lounges over the water. There’s also a sunken firepit poolside, but if you want to get up and about you can go horse riding on the beach or do a food tour of Byron Bay.

The MGallery boutique hotels are all very individual, but Accor says that by being part of a collection they are revealed to a wider audience.

“Each hotel has its own personality and story, experienced by guests through architecture, interior design and services,” a spokesperson says.

MGallery hotels are categorised under one of three atmospheres – heritage, serenity and signature.

Heritage refers to history, artwork and architecture from a bygone era, signature reflects a heightened sense of style and design, while serenity is applied to properties that are tucked away in the mountains, are on the coastline or in a quiet urban landscape.

So, who is staying?

“Our guests are well read, curious and are interested in the world around them,” the spokesperson says. “The needs and expectations of hotel guests are constantly changing. Guests today are worldly travellers and seek more modern interpretations of luxury, but they still want locally immersive travel experiences filled with rich stories.”

The MGallery brand was launched in 2008 with eight properties, so the expansion of the hotel group to 85 properties has been rapid.

There are 11 MGallery hotels in Australia and New Zealand, but the collection is spread across five continents. Hotels are located in many countries including Algeria, France, Brazil, Germany, Italy and Hungary. There’s also a very strong presence in Asia.

All of the hotels are part of Le Club AccorHotels, a worldwide loyalty program.

Accor is set to announce another MGallery opening in Australia, but as Luxury Travel was going to press the details were still under wraps.

For more details, visit sofitel.com/gb/luxury-hotel-experience/ mgallery-by-sofitel.shtml

ASIA/PACIFIC MGALLERY HOTELS

AUSTRALIA

Mount Lofty House, Adelaide, mtloftyhouse.com.au

The Playford, Adelaide, theplayford.com.au

The New Inchcolm Hotel, Brisbane, inchcolm.com.au

Elements of Byron, Byron Bay, elementsofbyron.com.au

Fairmont Resort

Blue Mountains, fairmontresort.com

Grand Hotel, Melbourne, grandhotelmelbourne. com.au

Hotel Lindrum, Melbourne, hotellindrum.com.au

The Como, Melbourne, comomelbourne.com.au

The Reef House Palm Cove, reefhouse.com.au

Harbour Rocks Hotel, Sydney, harbourrocks.com.au

NEW ZEALAND

Hotel St Moritz, Queenstown, stmoritz.co.nz

INDONESIA

The Royal Beach Seminyak, Bali, sofitel.com/gb/ hotel-5551-the-royal-beachseminyak-bali-mgallerycollection/index.shtml

The Royal Surakarta, Solo, sofitel.com/gb/hotel-9239the-royal-surakarta-heritagesolo-mgallery-by-sofitel/index. shtml

The Phoenix Hotel Yogyakarta, accorhotels.com/ gb/hotel-5451-the-phoenixhotel-yogyakarta-mgallery-bysofitel/index.shtml

LAOS

3 Nagas Luang Prabang, sofitel.com/gb/hotel-9641-3nagas-luang-prabang-mgalleryby-sofitel/services.shtml

MYANMAR

The Lake Garden, Nay Pyi Taw, sofitel.com/gb/hotel9096-the-lake-garden-nay-pyitaw-mgallery-collection/index. shtml

THAILAND

Vie Hotel, Bangkok, viehotelbangkok.com

Veranda High Resort, Chiang Mai, verandaresortandspa.com/ verandachiangmai/ Veranda Resort, Pattaya, verandaresortandspa.com/ verandapattaya/

V Villas, Hua Hin, vvillashuahin.com

Veranda Resort and Spa, Hua Hin Cha Am, verandaresortandspa.com/ verandahuahin/ Baraquda, Pattaya, hotelbaraquda.com

Avista Hideaway, Phuket Patong, avista-hideaway-phuketpatong.com

VIETNAM

Hotel Royal, Hoi An, hotelroyalhoian.com

La Residence Hue Hotel and Spa, Hue, la-residence-hue.com

La Veranda Resort, Phu Quoc, laverandaresorts.com

CHINA

Songtsam Retreat at Shangri La, sofitel.com/gb/hotel7078-songtsam-retreat-atshangri-la-mgallerycollection/index.shtml

MAIN EVENT

GOLD LIST AWARDS 2016 HIGHLIGHTS

BLURB REQUIRED TO EXPLAIN THIS SECTION.

SPICERS RETREATS

Finalists in categories for: Best Australian Boutique Property: Villa or Lodge; Best Australian Property (within driving distance of the city); and Best Australian Romantic Property

TURTLE ISLAND FIJI RESORT

A finalist in the Best Overseas Family Resort category

ITEL MELBOURNE ON COLL

A finalist in our Best Australian Hotel category

ABERCROMBIE & KENT

A finalist in the category for Best Luxury Tour Operator

MIRAGE PORT DOUGLA

A finalist in our Best Australian Resort category

VOMO ISLAND RESORT FIJI

A finalist in our Best Overseas Resort category, and winner of Best Overseas Family Property

To see more on our Gold List Awards, go to luxurytravelmag.com.au/gold-list

Lifestyle + Wine + Food + Design

THIS ISSUE : DESIGN HOTEL IN MEXICO / CULINARY TRAVELS IN BALI / GLOBAL KITCHEN –RECIPES FROM ISTANBUL / CELEBRITY TRAVELLER : SAM NEILL ON HIS TRAVEL EXPERIENCES / EPICUREAN TRAVELS WITH THE LATEST NEWS FROM THE WORLD OF FINE FOOD AND DRINK / CREATIVE TRAVELLER : FASHION ILLUSTRATOR MEGAN HESS

page

COCOLUX CANDLES ARE MADE FROM EARTH-FRIENDLY CLEAN BURNING COCONUT WAX. CREATED TO CAPTURE THE ESSENCE OF NATURE AND RAW LUXURY.

THE ART OF TRAVEL

The picturesque white beaches of Mexico’s Yucatan peninsula might be the last place one would expect to find an extraordinary modern art collection worthy of a museum, but renowned NYC art dealer Lio Malca’s art-centric boutique hotel suggests otherwise.

Casa Malca, located just outside the ancient Mayan city of Tulum, is decked out with original works from Malca’s private collection of contemporary art pieces – featuring artists such as George Condo, Vik Muniz, Wayne White, Jean-Michel Basquiat and Marco Brambilla. From the KAWS Companion figure in the lobby to Rafael Gomezbarros’s giant fibreglass ants ascending the walls, a vast range

of sculptures, paintings and photography fills the 26 guestrooms and nine suites.

Stretched across more than 180 metres of private coastline, the resort could be considered an artwork in itself; blending elements of whitewashed, natural warmth with rustic Mayan influences and graphic bursts of colour. The striking tapestries and edgy décor, such as the Keith Haring wallpaper in the bar area, are delicately balanced by the luxurious interiors, large floor-to-ceiling windows and views of either the surrounding ocean or gardens.

Guests can spend the day exploring the nearby Mayan temple ruins and the historic Tulum coastline, before returning to unwind in

the oasis of the resort. Activities for the more adventurous include kite-surfing, exploring the jungle reserve in an all-terrain vehicle, and scuba-diving or snorkelling the ancient limestone cenotes (natural underground reservoirs).

If you’d prefer to relax and appreciate the artwork, unwind by the private beach or next to one of the three swimming pools; indulge in a massage or private yoga class, before watching the sunset from the rooftop.

BY SIOBHAN PLOWMAN

CASA MALCA, TULUM, MEXICO l STAY HERE Room rates start from A$577 per night. casamalca.com

Chef’s guide to MODENA

AS SOUS CHEF AT OSTERIA FRANCESCANA, RANKED NO. 1 ON THE LIST OF THE WORLD’S BEST 50 RESTAURANTS, Kondo Takahiko KNOWS WHAT IT TAKES TO DELIVER A MEMORABLE DINING EXPERIENCE. HERE HE RANKS 11 OF HIS FAVOURITE EATERIES IN MODENA, ITALY.

# 1 BAR DONDI (PASTICCERIA DONDI)

Serving macchiatone (like a cappuccino but served with less milk) and cannoli with custard made fresh every morning to start a beautiful day.

# 2 TRATTORIA BIANCA

My favourite place for lunch. Go here to eat gnocco fritto with prosciutto, mortadella, coppa with morello (cherry) jam and lambrusco wine.

# 3 FRANCESCHETTA58

Franceschetta58 is the bistro of Osteria Francescana. The food is fantastic and the service is good, you feel like you are at home here. Eat an amazing hamburger, Emilian-style as well as delicious tortellini and salumi mix.

# 4 MON CAFÉ

The owner of Mon Café used to work with us at Osteria Francescana, and he opened this very cool café which is great for breakfast, aperitivo and dinner, and is always packed with people. [Chef patron of Osteria Francescana] Massimo Bottura and I often go here for coffee.

# 5 MENOMOKA COFFEE & MORE

Probably the best coffee in Modena. They have a lot of variety to choose from and I buy my coffee for home from here!

# 6 MERCATO ALBINELLI

This is the central market for Modena’s vegetables, fruits, meats, seafood, cheeses, hams – everything is here! I love to go in the morning before work. I get inspired from the amazing farmers and products – it’s a must-do.

CULINARY TRAVELS

Kondo Takahiko is in Sydney for two sold-out dinners at Ormeggio and LuMi, but there are still tickets available to see him with chef Alessandro Pavoni at their Sydney Seafood School masterclass on 14 January 2017. Tickets are $220. sydneyfishmarket.com.au/seafood-school/about-sss

#

7 TRATTORIA ERMES

Posto da provare! Un posto storico!!! [A place to try! An historic place!!!] Here you can feel the essence of Modena. Open for lunch only, [patron] Ermes Rinaldi is always there. He is a famous and inspiring person in Modena!

#

8 ARCHER

A beautiful space. They have amazing wines and do fantastic cocktails. I really like one cocktail called Hugo. It’s a must-try! Here is a place to watch the world go by. The amazing Ghirlandina bell tower sits in front of you, you can drink good wines and cocktails – it’s a very romantic place.

# 9 BAR ENOTECA RISTRETTO

Amazing wines and cheeses, and open late into the night. I often go with the guys from [Osteria] Francescana after work and we party all night.

#

10 CÀ CERFOGLI

About 60km outside Modena, Cà Cerfogli is a beautiful restaurant for a traditional meal. When the autumn season of porcini and truffle arrives, this is the best place to enjoy these fungi done in different ways. I always go to have tortellini with white truffle when in season.

# 11 RISTORANTE PIZZERIA

GAMBERO ROSSO

Massimo and I always visit for a great pizza and mussels gratinatela.

Clockwise from top: Cuisine at Franceschetta58; arty interiors at Menomoka Coffee & More; dinner setting at Mon Café.

SEASON TO TASTE

Siobhan Plowman FINDS THE FLAVOURS OF THE FOUR SEASONS BALI AT JIMBARAN BAY ARE WELL-MATCHED TO THE BRAND’S RENOWNED LUXURY.

The Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts brand is well known for its superior luxury and worldly sophistication, but when someone mentions “gourmet food experience”, this global hotel chain is not always the first thing that comes to mind. The Four Seasons Bali at Jimbaran Bay, however, is leading the way for the brand.

Situated along the tree-lined curve of one of Bali’s most pristine beaches, this Four Seasons resort serves as a tropical oasis, hidden away from the humidity and fast-paced activity of the local town. Surrounded by views of the Indian Ocean, the resort’s luxurious villas and residences sit nestled upon the hillside, connected by paths that lead directly to the private beach. The intimate but oversized terraces, opulent indoor and outdoor living areas, secluded pools and lush gardens are great for a romantic holiday, but

work well for families also. But this luxurious retreat offers more than just an idyllic beach escape. Guests travel to sample the edible experiences the Four Seasons at Jimbaran Bay has to offer. Begin with what the resort proudly touts as a ‘Culinary Tour de Force’; a journey of four courses, each taking guests to a differ-

ent, picturesque location. The dining experience begins at sunset, at a private table-for-two by the foreshore. Absorb the view of the traditional Jukung fishing boats dotting the calm waters of the bay while sampling the exotic flavours of Indonesian-style tapas. The second course, an entree, brings local seafood specialties into

From left: Garnished cocktails; a couple on the Culinary Tour de Force.

the spotlight. Savour this underneath the open-air, thatched-roof pavilion of the resort’s Taman Wantilan restaurant, while basking in the gentle sea breeze. The third course, Asianinspired contemporary cuisine, is served at the oceanfront restaurant Sundara, which is named after the Sanskrit word for ‘beautiful’. Finally, dessert is served in the garden of a private, candlelit villa.

For those after a more interactive food experience, Sundara bar staff, who have been trained by renowned Spanish mixologist, Javier De Las Muelas, are available to pass on valuable skills in cocktail mixing. Alternatively, take one of the daily cooking classes at the Jimbaran Bay Cooking Academy, led by head chef and Balinese native Anak Agung Kristya Yudha (also known as Kris), who has been cooking with the Four Seasons for more than 20 years. Begin at 9am with an optional tour of the Jimbaran Fish Market, where chef

Kris explains how locals shop for fresh produce, and details the history of the traditional seaside village. Upon returning to the resort, pick ingredients (such as Thai lemon basil, tamarind and pandan leaf) from the Academy’s own herb garden before gathering in the state-of-the-art kitchen to cook a five-course meal. All recipes are created by Four Seasons chefs, and use organic Indonesian ingredients. Traditional menus rotate daily and specialise in cuisines from regions across Indonesia, such as Java, Nusa Tenggara, Sumatra, and of course, Bali. Finish with a sampling of the day’s culinary creations around the communal dining table or outside in the stonepaved courtyard, and take home a certificate of achievement and a hand-drawn menu. The classes are suitable for food-lovers of all ages and skill levels and are limited to eight participants per session, in order to ensure a more personal experience. Classes for children also

run once a week, with a focus on Indonesian pastries and desserts.

The gourmet experiences don’t end there. The resort offers plenty of intimate dining options, including a sunset cruise around Jimbaran Bay – where guests can sit back and watch the sun set over the water while sampling canapés and champagne. If the water isn’t your thing, try one of the many a la carte and set-menu options available – ranging from the Jimbaran Seafood Experience served in the privacy of your own villa, to the Indonesian Indulgence banquet served in a gazebo on the beach.

Rates at the Four Seasons Bali at Jimbaran Bay start from US$775 (about A$1110) per night. fourseasons.com/jimbaranbay/

See more images from this story at luxurytravelmag.com.au

Clockwise from top left: Dine with stunning views at Four Seasons Bali at Jimbaran Bay; cooking classes; dishes on display at Bali's longest brunch; fresh food being prepared.

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TAKING IN INFLUENCES FROM ASIA, EUROPE AND THE MEDITERRANEAN, TURKISH CUISINE IS DIVERSE. IN HER BOOK TITLED ISTANBUL CULT RECIPES FOOD WRITER Pomme Larmoyer HAS COMPILED RECIPES FROM MEZE TO BAKLAVA THAT SHOWCASE THE FLAVOURS AND CULTURES OF ISTANBUL’S NEIGHBOURHOODS. HERE WE PRESENT FIVE OF HER BEST ALONG WITH HER FOODIE RECOMMENDATIONS FOR THOSE VISITING ISTANBUL SOON.

TIM WATKINS

Tim Watkins is Head

Sommelier at chef Clayton Wells’ first solo restaurant, Automata, in Sydney; and current The Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide

Sommelier of the Year. Tim was formerly sommelier at Sydney’s Pilu at Freshwater for many years.

LITTLE BÖREK FROM DELICATESSEN

Delicatessen yufka böreg˘i

SERVES: TWO TO FOUR (EIGHT SMALL BÖREK)

Preparation time: 30 minutes

Cooking time: 35 minutes

Here is "A chic little appetiser served at Delicatessen in the Pera district. You can also make these as cigars, by rolling the spinach filling in a sheet of buttered yufka, brushing with egg yolk and cutting into lengths, decorated with sesame seeds,” writes Pomme Larmoyer.

INGREDIENTS

10g butter, plus 20g extra, melted, for brushing

1 tbsp olive oil

1 onion, grated

1 garlic clove, grated 300g (6 cups) baby English spinach leaves

4 rectangular super-thin yufka pastry sheets or filo pastry sheets

8 chives

1 egg yolk, beaten black sesame seeds, to decorate

PREPARATION

Melt the 10 grams of butter in a small frying pan with the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic, and sauté for about five minutes until soft. Add the baby spinach and continue cooking for about 10 minutes. Using a sieve, gently squeeze out the moisture

Parsley

from the spinach. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper, and allow the mixture to cool. Preheat the oven to 180 degrees Celsius. Quickly butter a sheet of the pastry with some of the extra melted butter. Place another sheet on top, butter it as well and cut –carefully, as it is fragile – into four rectangles. Place a tablespoon of the spinach mixture in the centre of each rectangle, gather up the four corners of each into a bundle and tie closed with a chive. Do the same for the rest of the rectangles, then with two other yufka sheets, which are buttered, laid on top of each other and cut into four like the previous ones. Brush the eight parcels with egg yolk, and scatter with sesame seeds. Transfer to a greased baking tray, and bake in the oven for 20 minutes.

TURKISH TABOULEH

Hande’s kısır

SERVES: FOUR

Preparation time: 15 minutes

Cooking time: 10 minutes

Garlic

l drink BILLY BUTTON ‘THE FEISTY’ FRIULANO

Alpine Valleys, Victoria RRP$25

“I suggest a white with good acid structure and even a little residual sugar would work well with these pastries. Something that can clean the palate while enjoying the buttery pastry.”

“Kısır is Turkish tabouleh, traditionally made from burghul, tomatoes, capsicums and fresh herbs. Hande Bozdoğan, the lovely founder of the Istanbul Culinary Institute, gave me her version, which is both sweet (from the beetroot) and sour (from the pomegranate molasses and balsamic vinegar). The pomegranate molasses used to dress this salad is very different from pomegranate juice, and far more like a thick vinegar. Do not overlook it because it has a unique sweet–sour flavour,” writes Larmoyer.

l RECIPES AND IMAGES FROM ISTANBUL CULT RECIPES BY POMME LAMOYER (MURDOCH BOOKS). RRP $49.99, AVAILABLE 1 DECEMBER 2016.

l WINE RECOMMENDATIONS BY OUR GUEST SOMMELIER

GLOBAL KITCHEN

INGREDIENTS

150g fine burghul (bulgur)

2 beetroot, trimmed, cooked and peeled (see note below)

extra virgin olive oil

½ tsp balsamic vinegar

2 bulb spring onions, finely chopped

3 or 4 flat-leaf (Italian) parsley sprigs, finely chopped

2 or 3 fresh thyme sprigs, leaves picked and finely chopped pul biber (Aleppo pepper) or other chilli flakes

1 generous tsp pomegranate molasses (available from Turkish or other Middle Eastern food shops, some supermarkets and online)

PREPARATION

Bring 300 millilitres of water to the boil in a saucepan, and add the burghul. Cover and cook over low heat for about 10 minutes, then set aside. Purée one of the beetroot in a blender or food processor with a little olive oil and the balsamic vinegar. Dice the other beetroot, and add the diced beetroot and the purée to the burghul. Next, add

the spring onions, parsley, thyme, a pinch of chilli flakes and a good pinch of salt. Stir through, then add the pomegranate molasses and a little more olive oil. Stir through again, and serve cold.

NOTE: To cook beetroot, wrap them in foil and roast in a preheated oven at 200 degrees Celsius for 1–1½ hours. (Insert a knife into the flesh to check whether they are done: they are cooked when they are tender and the flesh is easily pierced.) Peel once they are cool enough to handle.

l drink

TENUTA DI TAVIGNANO MONTEPULCIANO BLEND

ROSATO –

MARCHE

Italy RRP$26.95

SPINIFEX ROSÉ

Barossa Valley, South Australia RRP$26

“A medium-bodied rosé would work well here. Something with enough weight and mouthfeel, but still having good acid to retain a freshness so as to work with the sweetness coming from the beetroot and pomegranate molasses.”

TURKISH TABOULEH (continued)

GLOBAL KITCHEN

SAUTÉED LAMB WITH SMOKY EGGPLANT

hünkar begendi

SERVES: FOUR

Preparation time: 50 minutes

Cooking time: 40 minutes

“The sovereign loved it.’ This is the translation of ‘hünkar begendi’, referring to its origin – at least according to the story that attests the dish was invented in the seventeenth century for Sultan Murad IV. Two hundred years later, the Empress Eugénie, wife of Napoléon III, was also supposed to have especially enjoyed this dish. So, sovereigns do love it, then. And not only sovereigns – me, too. It can be made with either cubes of meat or as meatballs,” writes Larmoyer.

INGREDIENTS

2 tbsp sunflower oil

1 onion, very finely chopped

400g boned lamb (such as boned short loin saddle), cut into cubes

40g butter

1 tsp sweet paprika

6 eggplants (choose ones that are not too large)

2 tbsp olive oil

2 tbsp plain flour

200ml milk

60g kasar, cantal or emmental cheese, grated

1 small handful flat-leaf (Italian) parsley, chopped

PREPARATION

Heat the sunflower oil in a large frying pan over medium–high heat. Add the onion and sauté for about five minutes until soft. Now add the meat, season with freshly ground black pepper and brown for a few minutes over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to low and continue cooking

SAUTÉED LAMB WITH SMOKY EGGPLANT (continued)

for about 30 minutes until the lamb is tender. Just before serving, season with salt. Melt the butter with the paprika in a small frying pan over medium heat; set aside to keep warm. Meanwhile, make the purée. Prick the eggplants and cook directly over a gas flame or under a preheated hot grill, turning regularly, until the flesh is meltingly soft. Open up each eggplant (use tongs if they are too hot to handle) and scrape out the flesh with a spoon (discard the skin). Mash the flesh to a purée with a fork; set aside. Stir the olive oil and flour in a medium saucepan over medium heat until the mixture turns a caramel colour. Gradually add the milk, then the eggplant purée and cheese, stirring continuously. Season with salt and pepper. Serve the purée hot, topped with the meat, drizzled with the paprika butter and with the parsley scattered over the top.

NOTE: Kasar (known as kasseri in Greece) is an unpasteurised medium–hard cheese made from sheep’s milk with a small amount of goat’s milk mixed in. You can find it at Turkish, other Middle Eastern or Mediterranean food shops.

Black Pepper

VANILLA MILK PUDDING muhallebi

SERVES: FOUR

Preparation time: five minutes

Cooking time: 10 minutes

Resting time: four hours

“Muhallebi can also be flavoured with orange flower water or rosewater: if you want to try that, replace the vanilla with 60ml (1/4 cup) of either water, and add to the pudding when it starts to thicken,” writes Larmoyer.

INGREDIENTS

30g cornflour

500ml (2 cups) milk

90g (generous 1/3 cup)

caster sugar

1 vanilla bean

1 small handful crushed unsalted pistachio nut kernels

PREPARATION

Blend the cornflour into a little of the milk, add this mixture to the rest of the milk in a saucepan with the sugar, and stir to dissolve. Open the vanilla bean

lengthways, and scrape out the seeds over the saucepan, then add the bean to the milk. Gently heat over medium heat, stirring constantly, for about 10 minutes until the mixture thickens. Pour into four small individual ramekins, and decorate the top of each one with a generous pinch of crushed nuts. Once the puddings have cooled, set aside the ramekins in the refrigerator for several hours to chill until ready to serve.

GLOBAL KITCHEN

Vanilla

l drink

FRIENDS OF PUNCH NOBLE RIESLING

Gippsland, Victoria RRP$25

“I tend not to go too sweet on the beverage side of things with desserts like this, as anything too ‘sticky’ will only mask the sweetness in the dish and detract from the flavour of the pudding.

I’d suggest an Auslese or Noble Riesling, which will have enough sweetness but not overpower the dessert.”

ISTANBUL, THE COCKTAIL

MAKES ONE GLASS

Preparation time: five minutes

“Istanbul is a cocktail: a fine mix of styles, the new and the old. Müzedechanga, a pioneering restaurant of the new Turkish cuisine, has created a rakı cocktail named after the city. It’s best enjoyed on their terrace overlooking the Bosphorus. Thank you to Tarık Beyazıt for passing it on to me,” writes Larmoyer.

INGREDIENTS

½ mandarin*, cut into 5 wedges

20ml sugar syrup

40ml vodka

20ml rakı

20ml lemon juice crushed ice

PREPARATION

Use a pestle to crush the pieces of mandarin with the sugar syrup in a cocktail shaker. Add the vodka, rakı, lemon juice and a big handful of crushed ice. Close the shaker, shake vigorously and serve in a pretty glass.

*At Müzedechanga, the mandarins used to come from Bodrum, a city in the southwest of Turkey, and have a very particular flavour and appearance (green outside, orange inside). It may be a little hard to justify going to Bodrum for a cocktail, so you can replace them with ordinary mandarins or bitter Seville oranges.

What’s new in Sydney

GRAIN BAR DEBUTS FRESH COCKTAIL MENU

Grain Bar, the watering hole at the Four Seasons Hotel Sydney, has launched a new-season cocktail menu of vibrant drinks showcasing seasonal fruits, blooms and some unusual ingredients like molasses bitters, rocky road liqueur, toasted marshmallows, bacon twists and white chocolate straws. The menu features playful names like Swipe Right, PDA and What’s Your Number Cucumber. One highlight is Caracas; Pampero Anejo rum stirred over ice with a fig and caramel liqueur, a touch of molasses bitters and a caramelised fig. The new cocktails will be available at the bar from 12 noon until late throughout daylight savings. grainbar.com.au

NEW WHARF SMOKE SHACK

BISTRO REMY NOW OPEN AT THE LANGHAM

The Langham, Sydney has opened its new restaurant, Bistro Remy, a relaxed 120-seat bistro featuring distressed wooden flooring and white French shutters. At the helm is chef Dave Whitting, whose CV includes stints at Bistro Guillaume in Perth, Bistro Moncur in Sydney's Woollahra and Jonah’s at Whale Beach. Whitting’s produce-led menu offers a modern take on classic bistro fare, and includes dishes like black ash tortellini filled with silky potato crème and dressed with pecorino and watercress, Golden Plains pork belly with apple and potato crème, and quince tarte tatin paired with blue cheese and marshmallow. The restaurant offers a wine list by sommelier Matt Herod. Bistro Remy is open for lunch Monday to Friday and dinner Monday to Saturday. langhamhotels.com/en/the-langham/sydney/

Barbecue fans will be delighted with the launch of The Kerrigan at Pier One at Walsh Bay. The smoke shack is set alongside the Pier One Sydney Harbour hotel and offers an array of barbecue dishes with Sydney Harbour Bridge views. The Kerrigan has a custom-made charcoal-burning grill and on-site smoker where meats are smoked for up to 14 hours. The menu includes slow cooked lamb and pork ribs, smoked brisket, wings and a signature Kerrigan Burger with housemade pickles and sauce. The Kerrigan is open daily from 11.30am til 9pm. pieronesydneyharbour.com.au

l NEW BAR

RODD & GUNN VENTURES INTO HOSPITALITY WITH NEW QUEENSTOWN BAR

New Zealand-based luxury menswear brand Rodd & Gunn has launched a lodge bar on Lake Wakatipu in Queenstown, New Zealand. The space has been designed to reflect the brand with American white oak floorboards, brass fittings, and a pressed-steel bar, while floor-toceiling glass doors reveal views of the lake beyond. Visitors to the bar can order from a wine list curated by New Zealand’s master sommelier Cameron Douglas (with 30 wines offered by the glass), and a menu featuring fresh New Zealand produce by chef Matt Lambert, to enjoy from the comfort of Rodd & Gunn-designed bespoke furniture. thelodgebar.roddandgunn.com

EXPLORE THE CUISINE OF SOUTHERN INDIA WITH PETER KURUVITA

Travel with Australian celebrity chef Peter Kuruvita through the southern states of India to learn about the food and history of this vibrant part of the country. Along with Peter and a local English-speaking guide, 14 guests will explore areas including Chennai, Thekkady, Kumarakom, Kochi and Hyderabad, and partake in cooking classes, and market and street food tours along the way. The tour includes private transfers and transportation between cities and accommodation in luxury hotels and boutique properties. The 15-day tour departs 3 March 2017. Rates start from A$11,499 per person, twin share. peterkuruvita.com/travel/india/

DISARONNO

WEARS ETRO

Italian amarettoflavoured liqueur Disaronno has paired up with luxury fashion label Etro to release a limited edition bottle, Disaronno Wears Etro. The latest in a series of designer collaborations, the striking Etro bottle features the Italian fashion house’s signature style – paisley print in a bold mix of blue, orange, green and gold. The limited edition 700ml bottle retails for A$44.99 at select retailers, and there are also six mini bottles with different designs to collect, available in packs of three. disaronno.com

l ULTRA-LUXE THE BEST KIND OF BUTLER

In partnership with Dom Pérignon, Shangri-La’s Le Touessrok Resort & Spa, Mauritius now offers a Champagne Butler service. Upon arrival, guests will be greeted with a glass of Dom by their Champagne Butler, who will then be available around the clock to serve the prestigious champagne any time, anywhere. The Champagne Butler service is available to guests staying in the luxury resort’s Beach Villas for a supplement of €2000 (about A$2832) per night. shangri-la.com/mauritius/beachvilla

l WINE AND DINE THE HOME OF ST HUGO OPENS IN THE BAROSSA VALLEY

South Australia’s Barossa Valley is now home to a luxury wine lodge showcasing the wines of Cabernet Sauvignon producer St Hugo. The Home of St Hugo comprises a wine lounge offering its wines for guests to taste by the fire in cooler months or al fresco during summer, and a private lower-ground tasting room. In addition, there is an intimate restaurant headed by Executive Chef Mark McNamara, where the four- and eight-course degustation menus are based on seasonal produce and matched with St Hugo wines. The St Hugo restaurant is open for lunch from 12pm until 3pm and dinner at 6pm on selected days. Bookings are essential.

The Home of St Hugo offers remarkable wine experiences including the luxe Legacy Wine Experience, with a private helicopter flight to the St Hugo home, private wine tasting of the finest vintages and a special St Hugo gift package priced at A$10,000 for up to two people. Not luxe enough? The Sainthood Experience features a private tasting and tour of the estate, a chartered flight to Coonawarra, the chance to name a vineyard row, and the opportunity to create a wine blend with the chief winemaker that will be bottled and stored in the vault to mature for three years before being personally delivered to the guest. This package starts from A$150,000 for two people. sthugo.com

l DRINK UP

l FOODIE TOUR

MEGAN HESS

MEGAN HESS IS A RENOWNED FASHION ILLUSTRATOR AND HAS WORKED WITH SOME OF THE WORLD’S MOST RECOGNISED LUXURY BRANDS.

Belinda Craigie SPOKE WITH MEGAN ABOUT HER INSPIRATION, HER TRAVEL STYLE AND WHERE SHE’D MOST LIKE TO KICK UP HER HEELS NEXT.

Which destinations you’ve travelled to have really inspired your creativity?

Of all the countries I’ve travelled to it always comes back to Paris and New York.

Paris: the architecture of the buildings and the Eiffel Tower always make the best backgrounds for my sketches. I love the chic, effortless style of Parisians – such great subject matters to draw.

And New York: I particularly love it there in autumn. There is nothing more beautiful than the autumn leaves blowing around that

incredible city to inspire some creativity. I also love the street-style in Soho. I perch myself in a busy coffee shop Downtown and sketch all the eclectic New Yorkers passing by.

You’ve worked with a lot of luxury brands –Chanel, Dior, Tiffany & Co., to name a few. How do you integrate the feel and look of the brand while retaining your own style? It’s always about keeping the essence of what is loved about a brand – it’s their DNA,

CREATIVE TRAVELLER

but it's my job to draw something that’s completely original. I focus on what it is that made that brand special. For example, with Tiffany &Co., women’s heart rates go up when they see that signature Tiffany blue! For Louis Vuitton it’s all about the ‘Spirit of Travel’ – theirs was the only luggage that didn’t sink with the Titanic! It’s those special details that always need to stay, but be re-imagined for today. It’s enormous fun to get to work and collaborate with brands that have such history.

What’s the most memorable travel experience you’ve had?

The very first time I arrived in NYC as a teenager – the excitement of all of the cabs honking, sirens wailing and chic New Yorkers strutting the sidewalk was unforgettable.

What was it like working with Michelle Obama? It was certainly a career highlight to be asked to create portraits of her. She is one of the smartest, funniest and kindest people on the planet. I took the commission very seriously and really focused on keeping every detail very true to exactly how she looks and carries herself.

Are there any illustrators or artists you take inspiration from?

I’ve always been obsessed with Erté. He was a Russian illustrator and one of the very first artists to bring fashion illustration to life as a profession. His work was so unique and I loved that he ignored all fashion trends and just drew a completely imaginary world. I search for original sketches of his work and I will always be inspired by him.

What is the most opulent or extravagant project you’ve worked on?

I created an illustration for a royal couple in the Middle East – the illustration was turned into thousands of mosaic tiles for the base of their rooftop swimming pool!

What do you always pack when you travel?

All my carry on luggage is Louis Vuitton and even just looking at my suitcases in my wardrobe makes me want to travel! My check-in luggage is Hartmann. I wear the same Chanel cashmere cape on all long-haul flights. It provides the perfect warmth and feels like a blanket. I never wear it in real life and as soon I arrive home I put it in dry cleaning so it’s all ready to go again on my next trip! I also bring soft sheepskin socks. (It’s all about getting cosy on a long flight!) I also always download my favourite TV series onto my iPad so I can watch it on the flight – I never risk not liking the movie selection on board!

Where is next on your travel schedule?

I have a HUGE travel schedule for my upcoming book tour to launch New York: Through a Fashion Eye.

We will be kicking it off in Dubai then straight over to Paris and London. From London we will head to New York and LA, finishing up in Sydney then home to Melbourne.

In each city I have up to five or six events with lots of media interviews and in-store signings – so it's a big crazy trip but after working on a book for a year it’s so exciting to see it launch all over the world!

Where in Australia is your favourite place to unwind?

Port Douglas. I just love to sit by the water indulging in fresh seafood and champagne. All I need is my husband, my kids and a good book, and I’m set. Bliss.

Have you got any dream destinations left to tick off the bucket list?

Many. I have so much of Asia still to see and so many parts of Europe that I want to discover. Right now I’m dreaming of the Greek Islands.

“I also love the street-style in Soho. I perch myself in a busy coffee shop Downtown and sketch all the eclectic New Yorkers passing by”

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Choose a self-skippered self-catering canal or river boat or relax aboard a crewed hotel barge with guided sightseeing & a chef onboard serving regional specialities. Ideal for friends or families.

Departures from March to October – early bookings essential

For a free brochure contact our inland cruise specialists. Call 1800 331 582 www.outdoortravel.com.au

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SAM NEILL

THE MUCH-LOVED STAR OF SCREENS BIG AND SMALL, NEW ZEALAND NATIVE SAM NEILL TALKS TO Belinda Craigie ABOUT HIS TRAVEL LOVES AND PASSION FOR PINOT NOIR.

Of all the places you’ve travelled for your film projects, which have been the most memorable?

At last count I think I have worked in well over 30 different countries, and I have seen some really remarkable places. Last year, for instance, we spent some weeks right on the Namibian/South African border [filming ITV’s mini-series Tutankhamun]. It was the closest thing on earth to the surface of Mars and yet, just below us, winding through this beautiful desolation, was the Orange River. This meant a strip of unimaginable fertility perhaps 100 yards wide, supporting all kinds of life. Birds of all kinds, mammals, trees and of course, people. I loved every day there, particularly drifting downstream in a canoe.

There’s a lot of striking scenery in the acclaimed New Zealand film, Hunt for the Wilderpeople – can you tell me a bit about what was it like filming in New Zealand?

Well, it’s home. And it was winter, so I was prepared. Cold often, but never less than exhilarating. It’s a great place to film, New Zealand; the landscape changes radically every few miles. All our shoot was in the North Island, and a fair bit of that was on the Central Plateau, below the great volcanoes Ruapehu, Tongariro

and Ngauruhoe. A lot of critics say that the landscape was like another important character in the film, and they want to get on a plane and visit as soon as possible.

If you were to recommend a destination in New Zealand for travellers seeking seclusion, where would it be?

I would have to say the West Coast of the South Island. Very under populated, very remote and very beautiful. Take some good insect repellant, however.

You have a winery, Two Paddocks, in New Zealand’s Central Otago – what attracted you to the region and why do you think it produces such a premium product? Don’t get me started. Oh, all

right, you have. Cool climate, hard work, schist soils, innovative people, a spirit of cooperation, dazzling sunlight, low humidity, vision, clay, thousands of years of imported wine culture and vine material from Burgundy, courage and/or foolhardiness...the list goes on.

Do you have a favourite wine from your portfolio?

That’s very hard. Perhaps our Two Paddocks Last Chance Pinot Noir – this is from the second vineyard we planted in 1998, and perhaps the world’s southernmost vineyard. Or Two Paddocks The Fusilier Pinot Noir. This comes from our newest vineyard, planted in 2000 on Felton Road in Bannockburn.

Quite a different style of pinot, but extraordinarily impressive.

Where do you like to go for a leisure holiday?

I don’t really like leisure, so I don’t go on leisure holidays. They sound ghastly.

Do you have a travel bucket list? If so, what’s next on the list for you to check off?

I’ve always wanted to go to Egypt and Iran. I’m interested in antiquity. No one wants to go to these places much at the moment, which is probably a very good reason to go. At least I think so.

In your mind, what is the ultimate luxury?

For a start, it won’t have a ‘brand’ name anywhere near it. I like simplicity. I really dislike any display of wealth. Big yachts...things like that turn my stomach.

So, I’m probably against the idea of luxury altogether, especially the idea of ultimate luxury. Just give me a simple white cottage in the middle of nowhere, some mountain scenery, a river or two for fly-fishing – that’ll do me. And plenty of pinot noir, of course. Oh, I think I know the place... home.

CELEBRITY TRAVELLER IMAGES BY CHRISTOPHER D. THOMPSON

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