Luxury Travel Magazine - Issue 70

Page: 046

LUXE-FOR-LESS THE BEST LUXURY DEALS IN TROPICAL THAILAND

Gold list

Page: 053

EXPLORE ICELAND FROM REYKJAVIK TO THE

Page: 078

CRUISE SPECIAL PART III

EXPEDITION CRUISING: LUXURY AND ADVENTURE

Page: 140

KOKOMO ISLAND FIJI AUSTRALIA’S FIRST LOOK INSIDE

NEW

SOUTH AMERICAN TEMPTATIONS

SOUTH AMERICAN TEMPTATIONS

It is said that a voyage is the aphrodisiac of the soul. Silversea’s grand cruises venture forth across the seas and quench the thirst to go exploring that remains a primal need in all of us.

It is said that a voyage is the aphrodisiac of the soul. Silversea’s grand cruises venture forth across the seas and quench the thirst to go exploring that remains a primal need in all of us.

South America is a land of stunning extremes – the world’s highest waterfall, the world’s longest mountain range, the world’s driest desert, the world’s largest rain forest. Stretching from the steaming Amazon to the bone-dry Atacama Desert and the glacial peaks of the Andes, this is a continent where the unexpected is never a surprise. Luckily, we can transport you there in a far more comfortable way: a Silversea Grand Voyage aboard our brand new Silver Muse

South America is a land of stunning extremes – the world’s highest waterfall, the world’s longest mountain range, the world’s driest desert, the world’s largest rain forest. Stretching from the steaming Amazon to the bone-dry Atacama Desert and the glacial peaks of the Andes, this is a continent where the unexpected is never a surprise. Luckily, we can transport you there in a far more comfortable way: a Silversea Grand Voyage aboard our brand new Silver Muse

69 DAYS | 34 PORTS | 4 ROUTES | 14 COUNTRIES

69 DAYS | 34 PORTS | 4 ROUTES | 14 COUNTRIES

Brand new ultra-luxury ship s Spacious all veranda ocean-view suites s Eight fine dining restaurants s Butler service s In-suite bar

Brand new ultra-luxury ship s Spacious all veranda ocean-view suites s Eight fine dining restaurants s Butler service s In-suite bar

For more information or to book, please see your Travel Professional, call Silversea on 1300 306 872 or visit Silversea.com

For more information or to book, please see your Travel Professional, call Silversea on 1300 306 872 or visit Silversea.com

DELIGHT IN SILVER MUSE

Join us aboard Silver Muse, our newest leading lady, for a 69-day circumnavigation of this exhilarating continent. With less than 300 suites, Silver Muse will be the epitome of Silversea excellence. A small, intimate ship with uncompromised levels of service, comfort, design and accommodation, she will offer tailor-made experiences to last a lifetime. From tranquil niches and observation areas to an unprecedented spacious pool deck, our tailor-made outdoor spaces have been conceived so that time spent aboard is most definitely, time well spent.

2018 Grand Voyage: 69 days, 3rd Jan, Ft. Lauderdale Roundtrip or select from the following segments:

3rd Jan 18 days Ft. Lauderdale to Valparaiso

21st Jan 16 days Valparaiso to Buenos Aires

6th Feb 10 days Buenos Aires to Rio de Janeiro

16th Feb 25 days Rio de Janeiro to Ft. Lauderdale Fares from $7,155pp, including our Early Booking Bonus.

Complimentary wine, Champagne and spirits Menu selections by Relais & Châteaux Complimentary WiFi Included gratuities

Fares are cruise-only, quoted in Australian Dollars, per person including Early Booking Bonus, are correct at time of going to print and may rise as the sailing date approaches. From fare based on Voyage 6803, Buenos Aires to Rio de

Veranda Suite

Spacious Pool Deck

CONTENTS

016 DISPATCHES + WHAT TO PACK

The latest from the world of luxury travel, plus some of our favourite high-end travel products.

COVER STORY

The finalists and winners of the 2017 Gold List Awards.

045 DESTINTATION

Luxe-for-Less Thailand, an exploration of Reykjavik and west Iceland, a round-up of Australian and NZ winter getaways and a luxury guide to Mexico City.

077 GET THERE

An expert guide to luxury expedition cruising, our review of the Seabourn Encore, four new luxury trains launching in 2017, plus our lounge and flight reviews.

105 DO THIS

Five off-the-beaten-track safaris, your VIP access to Art Basel, Wimbledon and America's Cup, golfing in Vietnam, a guide to the best ski passes, heli-skiiing in New Zealand and family fun at Lotte World, South Korea.

139 STAY HERE Design Hotel 7132 in Switzerland, Kokomo Island Fiji and Hurawalhi Maldives.

153 SUITE LIFE

The Penthouse Suite at The Silo and hotel suite reviews of Sofitel Sydney, Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek, Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, Mandarin Oriental New York and Four Seasons Downtown New York.

165 GOOD LIVING

Sound therapy on Seabourn Encore, our stay at Kamalaya Koh Samui, Kamalaya's Raw Chocolate Cake recipe and stand-up paddleboarding in the Cook Islands.

177 TRAVEL&

Chef's guide to Abu Dhabi, truffle hunting in Piedmont and excerpts from Luke Nguyen's Street Food Asia

178

EXECUTIVE EDITOR/MANAGING DIRECTOR Gary Allen gary.allen@magnesiummedia.com.au

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Andrew McEvoy EDITOR Katie Milton

CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Lucy Jones

EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Grace Smith

STAFF WRITER Siobhan Plowman

HEALTH & WELLNESS CORRESPONDANT Kelly Allen

SUB EDITOR Kate Symons

ART DIRECTOR Louise Summerton

SALES MANAGER Richard Bunting rbunting@magnesiummedia.com.au +61 424 138 806

SUBSCRIPTION ENQUIRIES Ph: +61 2 8705 5463 www.luxurytravelmag.com.au/subscribe

EDITORIAL ENQUIRIES Grace Smith gsmith @luxurytravelmag.com.au

DISTRIBUTION ENQUIRIES

AUSTRALIA and NEW ZEALAND

Luxury Travel Media telephone +61 2 8705 5463

PRODUCED AND PUBLISHED BY MAGNESIUM MEDIA ABN 86 066 598 427 Level 1, 18 Grosvenor Street Sydney NSW 2000 Australia Telephone +61 2 8705 5463

DIRECTORS Robin and Scott Venturelli

COVER ILLUSTRATION Megan Hess

For our Gold List issue, we ask three of our contributors to tell us the one luxury travel experience they believe every person should have?

MEGAN HESS

I think everyone should try staying a night at a hotel you’ve always dreamt of staying at. Once you arrive, take a relaxing hot bath and slip into one of the hotel’s beautiful, fluffy bathrobes and a pair of slippers. Then complete the experience by ordering your favourite meal from the room service menu! There’s nothing more indulgent and fun.

STEVE MCKENNA

Enjoying dreamy window views, with gourmet cuisine and wine, from the comfort of a high-end train; say, the Glacier Express, which snakes across the spellbinding Swiss Alps, or the Belmond Hiram Bingham, which winds its way up to Machu Picchu, the incredible Lost City of the Incas.

KEREN LAVELLE

A stay at a boutique luxury hotel, set in beautiful surroundings, sumptuously designed, furnished with fine artworks, carpets and the like, and with everything available you could desire in terms of spa treatments, delectable morsels, exquisite drinks, and – the number one thing – charming, thoughtful staff.

CONTRIBUTORS THIS ISSUE

Belinda Luksic

David McGonigal

Steve McKenna

Leah McLennan

Leslie Patrick Moore

Margo Pfeiff

Gemma Price

Craig Tansley

YOU DESERVE TO PARTNER WITH THE BEST

INDEPENDENT CONTRACTORS

You love what you do. Helping clients discover new experiences, revisit old ones, and travel in style. You enjoy your independence, but appreciate the security of a team and resources around you.

You love what you do. Helping clients discover new experiences, revisit old ones, and travel in style. You enjoy your independence, but appreciate the security of a team and resources around you.

You love what you do. Helping clients discover new experiences, revisit old ones, and travel in style. You enjoy your independence, but appreciate the security of a team and resources around you.

We are Luxury Travel Magazine’s Best Luxury Travel Agent in Australia. We’ve been building an enviable reputation, and unparalleled relationships with industry partners and luxury suppliers for a long time. Together, it’s the best of both worlds. Your independence as a travel manager. Our support and resources to help you deliver even better service. Your business, your choice.

We are Luxury Travel Magazine’s Best Luxury Travel Agent in Australia. We’ve been building an enviable reputation, and unparalleled relationships with industry partners and luxury suppliers for a long time.

We are Luxury Travel Magazine’s Best Luxury Travel Agent in Australia. We’ve been building an enviable reputation, and unparalleled relationships with industry partners and luxury suppliers for a long time. Together, it’s the best of both worlds. Your independence as a travel manager. Our support and resources to help you deliver even better service. Your business, your choice. FBI

Together, it’s the best of both worlds. Your independence as a travel manager. Our support and resources to help you deliver even better service. Your business, your choice.

“I love the flexibility of working from home when I need quiet time to complete tasks or from the office when I feel like interacting with my colleagues and exchanging ideas.”

“I love the flexibility of working from home when I need quiet time to complete tasks or from the office when I feel like interacting with my colleagues and exchanging ideas.”

“I love the flexibility of working from home when I need quiet time to complete tasks or from the office when I feel like interacting with my colleagues and exchanging ideas.”

Dimitri Giannakopoulos, Independent Travel Advisor

Dimitri Giannakopoulos, Independent Travel Advisor

Dimitri Giannakopoulos, Independent Travel Advisor

FBI TRAVEL • 03 8573 0900

FBI TRAVEL • 03 8573 0900

luxury@fbitravel.com.au

luxury@fbitravel.com.au

www.fbitravel.com.au/independent

www.fbitravel.com.au/independent

See Megan's illustration on the cover.

You can read about Steve's trip to Iceland on page 53.

You can read about Keren's Italian truffle hunt on page 181.

A&K HOSTED SMALL GROUP JOURNEYS

Find yourself somewhere amazing on an A&K Hosted Small Group Journey, a new portfolio of expert-led, shared adventures designed for the more intrepid Australian traveller. A voodoo trance in remote Benin, eagle hunting in outer Mongolia, the Day of the Dead Festival in Oaxaca, a micro-financed knitting enterprise in Southern India, polo in the Western Himalayas, camel trading in Pushkar, a journey through Persian history in Iran, an oasis city on the Silk Road, under the Aurora Borealis in Iceland or Norway, a clifftop monastery in the Caucasus, the southern reaches of Patagonia, or in another extraordinary part of the world, in another moment you will never forget, all in inimitable A&K style.

Call 1300 851 925 for more information or to order our new 2017-18 ‘Hosted Small Group Journeys’ brochure or visit abercrombiekent.com.au/hostedgroups

“Blessed are the curious, for they shall have adventures.”

Welcome to our annual Gold List issue! Inside we reveal the finalists and winners of our reader-voted awards that celebrate the world’s best luxury properties, operators and destinations. Now in its 13th year, the Gold List continues to honour old favourites and recognise new properties (see page 26). I’d like to extend a big thank you to everyone who voted in this year’s awards and tuned in to our live social announcement on Facebook and Instagram. Thank you also to One&Only Resorts and InterContinental Bali Resort for providing fantastic voter prizes.

While these awards are cause for celebration, there are some special people and properties currently going

through a difficult time. To those affected by Cyclone Debbie, we’re thinking of you and – just like everyone who included you in their top picks –keenly awaiting your reopening.

If you’re looking for great savings on a luxury Thailand getaway, turn to our Luxe-for-Less feature on page 46 where you’ll find four great deals just for Luxury Travel readers. Also in this issue, we explore Iceland from Reykjavik to the remote west (page 53), and let you in on seven luxury winter escapes (page 63) in Australia and New Zealand.

We’re thrilled to introduce Good Living, a new section that will cover the most exciting health and wellness news from luxury properties around the globe. Craig Tansley takes us on a stand-up paddleboard yoga retreat in

Plus:

the Cook Islands (page 170) and I take a healing journey at Kamalaya (page 165), the winner of our Gold List award for Best Overseas Luxury Health and Wellness Property.

We’re also very excited about our exclusive cover from talented fashion illustrator Megan Hess. Look out for more of her work in coming issues.

Good Living isn’t the only change you’ll see over the coming editions. We’ve got some great ideas in the pipeline and we’d love to hear yours, too. Please let us know what you like and what you’d like to see more of. And if you’re looking for luxury travel inspiration, head straight to our website for first-person reviews and recommendations on the best places to stay.

Thanks for continuing to flip through our pages.

Safe travels

KATIE MILTON EDITOR

WITH CURVES INSPIRED BY AN ANCIENT DREAMTIME CREATURE, A POOL YOU’LL NEVER FORGET.

Dive into the expansive pools elegantly surrounded by luxurious day beds and private cabanas. The water? It’s clear enough to rival Perth’s famous beaches. Refreshed, you ponder your next move. Epicurean? Crown Spa? The choice is yours.

For reservations 1800 776 460 I crowntowersperth.com.au

DISPATCHES

THE LATEST LUXURY HOTEL AND RESORT OPENINGS, REFURBISHMENTS AND TRAVEL NEWS.

THREE STYLISH NSW ESCAPES

IT SEEMS REGIONAL NEW SOUTH WALES IS HAVING A MOMENT. HERE ARE THREE DISTINCTIVE PROPERTIES THAT HAVE RECENTLY OPENED IN THE STATE.

SIERRA ESCAPE

Set among rolling farmland and grazing kangaroos, this stand-alone eco tent is Mudgee’s first ever glamping retreat. The self-contained one-bedroom tent occupies 18 square metres and features a king size bed, spacious indoor bathroom with freestanding bathtub, sliding glass doors and large screen windows for unspoiled views. Guests are provided a modest breakfast pack and encouraged to explore the surrounding wineries and foodie haunts for produce to be enjoyed on the verandah. Rates start from A$250 per night mid-week.

sierraescape.com.au/mudgee-glamping

GOONOO GOONOO STATION

If you’re visiting Tamworth, why not spend the night on a converted sheep station in a heritage-listed 19th century pastoral village? Built in the 1840s and just 15 minutes south of Tamworth, Goonoo Goonoo Station is a 4,000-hectare

estate comprising luxury self-contained two- and three-bedroom cottages, an ex-shearing shed turned function centre, a wedding chapel and an old schoolhouse that now serves as a bridal suite. The owners have also added a modern Australian restaurant serving a refined take on classic country fare

using top regional produce. The oldest and most impressive accommodation option on the property is the refurbished fivebedroomed original Homestead, which comes with its own private pool and courtyard. Rates start from A$245 per night for a two-bedroom cottage. goonoogoonoostation.com

JR’S ECO HUT

This triangular eco hut (the first of three) is perched on a hill in the Kimo Valley near Gundagai, surrounded by 7,000 hectares of working farmland. With striking wooden beams and floor-to-ceiling windows, this off-the-grid escape is entirely solar powered and includes a bathroom, log heater, barbeque and outdoor verandah. Rates start from A$350 per night and include a gourmet breakfast. kimoestate.com/ gundagai-accommodation

DRIVE

ASTON MARTIN ON ICE

Aston Martin is giving motorists the opportunity to put their skills to the ultimate test, driving some of the brand’s most luxurious vehicles over the challenging sub-zero, snow- and ice-covered terrain at New Zealand’s Southern Hemisphere Proving Ground. Experience the performance and handling power of the new Vanquish S, DB11, Rapide S Shadow Edition and V8 Vantage S under the expert guidance of professional driving instructors. Additional adrenaline-charged activities available during the three-day trip include canyon swinging, skydiving, jet boating, skiing and horse trekking. There are four Art of Living trips available in early August 2017. Prices start from NZ$9,495 (about A$8,883) per person twin share. astonmartinartofliving.com

EXCLUSIVE USE

DOORS OPEN TO 18TH CENTURY VILLA

DISPATCHES

PRIVATE ISLAND WITH A CONSCIENCE

A

off the east coast of Bintan, Cempedak is Indonesia’s newest adults-only private escape. Developed by the small hospitality group behind the nearby Nikoi Island, the sustainable resort has been designed to preserve the natural wildlife. The 20 cocooned villas were built using

17-hectare islandbamboo and local alang alang grass and their curved shape promotes natural ventilation. Each two-storey villa has a private plunge pool (though note there are no televisions). Guests can instead spend time playing tennis, croquet, boule or participating in the many water sports on offer. cempedak.com

SHOP

FASHIONABLE COLLABORATION

Louis Vuitton has teamed up with visual artists Jake and Dinos Chapman to produce an Africainspired accessories collection. The menswear range of steamer backpacks, totes, wallets and duffle bags feature sinister interpretations of classic Renaissance animal illustrations against the signature Louis Vuitton tan-andbrown monogram. The collection is available online and in Louis Vuitton boutiques

Treached by a short drive or water taxi. The property offers a unique space for events such as parties and private dinners, or guests can visit to explore the villa’s art, architecture and aristocratic artefacts, as well as the sprawling Italian gardens. grandhoteltremezzo.com/en/villa-sola

DISPATCHES

OPEN FOR BOOKINGS

WORLDWIDE

Built on Pulau Tiga, the same Malaysian island where the first ever Survivor was filmed, this boutique resort is slated to open in June. It’s from the same family behind the luxe Gayana and Bungaraya resorts, and will offer jungle trekking, water sports and farm-to-table produce in an idyllic setting. echo-resorts.com/echoresorts

ANANTARA VILAMOURA

Anantara’s first European property has just opened on southern Portugal’s Algarve coast. The 280-room resort has five swimming pools and views over Arnold Palmer’s Oceanico Victoria golf course. There are a range of special experiences like private winery visits and guided tours so guests can sample the local culture.

vilamoura.anantara.com

WANDA VISTA HOTEL

Circular Quay will welcome its first new five-star hotel since 2014 when the 181-room Wanda Vista Hotel opens in 2021. The 28-storey hotel will be a part of the One Circular Quay complex, and will be deisgned by Sydney-based Crone Architects and the renowned Japanese firm Kengo Kuma & Associates.wandahotels.com

MANDARIN ORIENTAL HONOLULU

Set to open on the island of Oahu in Honolulu in 2020, this 125-room hotel will be housed in the 36-storey Man’olana Place tower with 107 private residences located on the upper floors. Facilities will include a spa with eight treatment rooms, fitness centre, swimming pool and a rooftop restaurant and bar. mandarinoriental.com

ANDAZ HOTEL SINGAPORE

A new Andaz hotel will open later this year in Singapore’s up-and-coming Ophir-Rochor district. The five-star lifestyle hotel will feature 342 guest rooms and suites, a rooftop bar, event spaces, and an outdoor infinity pool. The hotel will become part of the new Duo complex, a pair of concave skyscrapers designed by award-winning German architect Ole Scheeren with direct access to the CBD, Marina Bay and Orchard Road. singapore.andaz.hyatt.com

EXPERIENCE MAGICAL KAKADU

Guests of Wild Bush Luxury property

Bamurru Plains can now embark on a guided full-day Kakadu National Park experience. The journey begins with a scenic flight, accompanied by a Bamurru Plains field guide, into the heart of the region for an exploration of the ancient rock art at Ubirr. After a chef-prepared bush picnic lunch, an indigenous guide will lead guests on a cruise down the East Alligator River where they will learn about bush survival skills and traditional uses for plants and animals. The tour comes to a close with a stop at the Bowali Visitor Centre. Rates for the Ultimate Kakadu Experience start from A$3,450 per adult inclusive of three nights’ accommodation, the group excursion and on-site wilderness activities. The Kakadu Experience can be added to any of Bamurru Plains’ existing packages for A$750 per person. bamurruplains.com/kakadu-packages

MEMBERS’ CLUB

THE NED OPENS IN LONDON’S SOHO

Highly anticipated boutique hotel and members’ club, The Ned, has just opened its doors in Soho’s historic Midland Bank building. Opened in 1924, a four-year, £200 million (about A$345 million) renovation has preserved features such as the old safety deposit boxes, green marble columns and wooden bank counters. The 252 rooms channel the 1920s and 30s, and range from the intimate Crash Pad, available to under-30s for a discounted A$330, to the expansive seventh floor Lutyens Suite with private rooftop access. The Grand Banking Hall will hold eight restaurants, including an outpost of Mayfair’s Cecconi’s and a New York-style deli. Applications are also now open for memberships, which include access to the ultra-exclusive Ned’s Club. thened.com

NEW OPENING THE FIRST FIVE-STAR IN 10 YEARS

Conrad Bora Bora Nui is the first new luxury property to open on Bora Bora in close to a decade. The 114-room property is nestled in a private cove on Motu To’opua, a short boat ride from the mainland, and features two multi-storey overwater bungalows and presidential villas with a whirlpool, sauna and rooftop sundeck. The resort is offering a range of immersion experiences for guests such as ukulele lessons with local musicians and a traditional Polynesian tattooing experience. conradhotels.com

Luxury resort Jumeriah Vittaveli in the Maldives has revealed the Royal Residence, a new five-bedroom, 3,500-square metre luxury retreat. The Residence features a separate living and dining pavilion, private beach and two swimming pools, along with a grill restaurant and overwater bar. A central suite is flanked by two large guest villas and a two-storey

guest house, easily accommodating up to 14 people. Guests of the Residence enjoy a personal concierge service, private butlers and chauffeurs, and have access to a personal chef and photographer. All activities are offered from the Residence’s private beach. Prices start from US$35,000 (about A$46,000) per night during high season. jumeirah.com

UPGRADE INTERCONTINENTAL SYDNEY UPGRADE

Plans have been announced for a $200 million renovation of the InterContinental Sydney, the hotel’s first upgrade in three decades. All 509 guest rooms, function rooms, restaurants and public areas will be revamped, and a new 900-square metre ballroom will be built extending out from the hotel tower over the adjoining Transport House building that will feature views of Circular Quay and the Sydney Harbour Bridge. icsydney.com.au

THE RITZ PARIS RELAUNCHES ONLINE STORE

Enjoy a piece of the iconic Ritz Paris in the comfort of your own home. Following recent renovations, the hotel has relaunched its online boutique with items ranging from the iconic peach bathrobes and towels to bedside lamps, home fragrances and Bar Hemingway whisky glasses. Prices range from €9 (about A$12) for exclusive coffee blends to €2,300 (about A$3,300) for a cashmere jogging tracksuit. The hotel has also partnered with luxury jeweller Tasaki to launch several diamond collections, available from selected Tasaki boutiques and the Ritz Paris Galerie. ritzparisboutique.com

For the of your life...

DISPATCHES

SELF-DRIVE LIFE IS A HIGHWAY

Planning an extended road trip in Europe this year? Driveaway Holidays has just launched a tax-free Peugeot program designed for non-European residents planning extended European travels. The car lease includes a brand new left-hand-drive Peugeot with unlimited kilometres, no insurance excess and 24-hour Peugeot Assistance. Visit driveaway.com.au/Peugeot for full terms and conditions.

NEW YACHT SUPER EXCLUSIVE SUPERYACHT

Guests and exclusive members of British concierge firm Quintessentially will soon be able to board the world’s largest superyacht. The 220-metre Quintessentially One, valued at A$360 million, will travel the globe following high profile events such as the Monaco Grand Prix and Rio Carnival. In addition to hosting Quintessentially’s elite clients on an invite-only basis, the luxury yacht will also operate as a hotel. Twelve triplex permanent residences are up for sale; prices range from A$11 million to A$17 million. Facilities will include an on-board theatre, shopping emporium and beach club. quintessentially.com

LUXE-FOR-LESS TAHITI CELEBRATES AN ICON

In 1967, the three Californian friends behind Club Bali Hai built the world’s first thatched-roof overwater bungalow on the idyllic island of Moorea. Fifty years on and Tahiti has close to 900 overwater bungalows spread across eight of the country’s 118 islands. To celebrate the 50th anniversary of what is now considered an icon of island luxury, Tahiti Tourism is offering an Ultimate Overwater Experience. The 12-night package offers a stay in overwater bungalows across three islands including Tahiti, Bora Bora and Rangiroa from A$9,999 per person twin share. The package includes return business class flights from Australia, overwater accommodation at Le Meridien Tahiti, Le Meridien Bora Bora and Kia Ora Resort Rangiroa, and transfers, including inter-island flights.

tahiti-tourisme.com.au

DOUBLE THE LUXURY IN HONG KONG

Two new luxury hotels are due to open in Hong Kong this year. ShangriLa Hotels and Resorts is opening a fourth property in the city, the Kerry Hotel. Deemed the city’s first ‘urban resort’ and located on the shoreline of Victoria Harbour’s Hung Hom Bay, the 546-room hotel will feature landscaped outdoor gardens along with a curated collection of more than 1,000 art pieces. Opening in October, Niccolo Hotels’ new flagship property, The Murray, will form part of the government’s new Conserving Central project. The hotel, located between the Central Business District and Hong Kong Park, will offer 336 rooms, signature restaurants and a rooftop bar with spectacular views of the city. shangri-la.com/hongkong/kerry niccolohotels.com

GUCCI TO YOUR DOOR IN A FLASH

Gucci has partnered with online luxury retailer Farfetch to offer 90-minute delivery in 10 global cities. The service, called F90, will be available in London, Paris, Milan, New York City, Madrid, Los Angeles, Miami, Dubai, Tokyo and Sao Paulo. Customers can order online from the Farfetch website or app and a courier will deliver from the nearest Gucci boutique in just 90 minutes. All items qualify for Farfetch’s return service. farfetch.com

KERRY HOTEL POOL

LOBBY AT KERRY HOTEL

IN HONOUR OF OUR GOLD LIST ISSUE, WE'VE PUT TOGETHER A SPARKLY SET OF METALLIC ACCESSORIES AND GADGETS FOR YOUR NEXT LUXE JAUNT.

ALL THAT

1. Leica C camera in light gold, A$899, cameralane.com.au 2. Globe-Trotter 30'' Extra Deep Trolley Case in champagne, £2,425 (about A$4,208), globe-trotter.com 3. Belkin MIXIT Power RockStar 10,000 power pack in gold, A$119.95, belkin.com 4. Maison Francis Kurkdjian Globe Trotter travel perfume spray case, €95 (about A$140), available from mecca.com.au 5. Personalised leather luggage tag and passport cover in gold, US$55 (about A$74) and US$59 (about A$80), markandgraham.com

6. Devon Tread 1 – G watch, A$46,900, vendome.com.au 7. Valextra “All in One” travel wallet in ochre, US$1,880 (about A$2,540), valextra.com

8. Ray-Ban Signet sunglasses in Gold Brown Classic, A$220, ray-ban.com 9. La Biosthetique Volume Powder, A$40, labiosthetique.com.au 10. Beats Solo3 Wireless On-Ear Headphones in gold, A$399.95, apple.com/au 11. Goldfield & Banks Desert Rosewood perfume concentrate, A$229, goldfieldandbanks.com 12. Hartmann 7R Master 80cm spinner case in rose gold, A$1,399, hartmann.com 13. Frye Ivy Low Lace sneakers in metallic gold, US$365.10 (about A$493), thefryecompany.com

Over 6,000 of you voted and here they are, the finalists and winners of our annual Gold List Awards for 2017. Now in its 13th year the awards recognise the best in luxury travel in Australia and around the world. This year we have introduced three new cruising categories in order to recognise the

Gold list

diversity of luxury cruising experiences in the market. Thank you to all who took the time to vote and congratulations to this year’s winners. To our winners and finalists hit by Cyclone Debbie — we know that the Queensland tourism industry is strong and we eagerly await the reopening of your fantastic properties.

our specialist luxury travel agent Gold List panel

This icon signifies the award winner has made the Gold List for the past five or more

consecutive years. They are our Hall of Fame members and deserve special recognition.

TERRI CORDIN SALES & MARKETING MANAGER WILDLIFE SAFARI PERTH

CLAUDIA ROSSI HUDSON OWNER/PRINCIPAL MARY ROSSI TRAVEL SYDNEY

YVONNE VERSTANDIG CO-FOUNDER EXECUTIVE EDGE TRAVEL MELBOURNE

DANNY ENGLMAN DIRECTOR OF LEISURE SALES FBI TRAVEL MELBOURNE

Introducing

Best Australian luxury hotel

1. Crown Towers Perth, WA

The most expensive hotel ever built in Australia, it’s little wonder that Crown Towers’ new Perth property has taken out the top spot in the first Gold List Awards since it opened its doors in December 2016.

2. The Langham, Melbourne, VIC

3. Park Hyatt Sydney, NSW

4. Sofitel Melbourne on Collins, VIC

5. Mansion Hotel & Spa at Werribee Park, VIC

6. Palazzo Versace Gold Coast, QLD

7. Four Seasons Hotel Sydney, NSW

8. Shangri-La Hotel, Sydney, NSW

9. COMO, The Treasury, Perth, WA

10. Pier One Sydney Harbour, NSW

11. Crown Towers Melbourne, VIC

12. InterContinental Sydney, NSW

13. The Langham, Sydney, NSW

14. Park Hyatt Melbourne, VIC

15. The Westin Sydney, NSW

16. Sheraton on the Park Sydney, NSW

17. The Westin Melbourne, VIC

18. Primus Hotel Sydney, NSW

19. Halcyon House, NSW

20. QT Sydney, NSW

GOLD LIST PANELIST PICK: Park Hyatt Sydney, NSW

“Stunning rooms, superb views and service make it consistently the number one pick in Australia.” Yvonne Verstandig, Executive Edge Travel

EDITOR’S PICK:

We heartily agree with our readers in this category. Our editor was lucky enough to experience Crown Towers Perth ahead of its opening weekend and was blown away by the excellent service and sleek design.

CROWN TOWERS PERTH

Best overseas luxury hotel

1. The Peninsula Hong Kong

Once again the “Grand Dame of the Far East”, Peninsula Hong Kong, takes the crown of leading overseas luxury hotel.

2. Marina Bay Sands, Singapore

3. Burj Al Arab Jumeirah, Dubai

4. Raffles Hotel Singapore

5. Four Seasons Hotel George V, Paris

6. Claridge’s, London

7. Atlantis, The Palm, Dubai

8. Bellagio Las Vegas

9. Le Bristol Paris

10. Shangri-La Hotel, Singapore

11. Ritz Paris

12. Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, Canada

13. Four Seasons Hotel, Hong Kong

14. Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong

15. The Peninsula, Bangkok

16. The Ritz London

17. Halekulani, Hawaii

18. Ashford Castle, Ireland

19. Villa d’Este, Italy

20. Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi

21. Corinthia Hotel Budapest

22. Ham Yard Hotel, London

23. The Gainsborough Bath Spa, UK

24. Grand Hotel Tremezzo, Italy

25. The Langham, London

26. Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok

27. One&Only Cape Town

GOLD LIST PANELIST PICK:

Taj Falaknuma Palace, Hyderabad

“The fact it took seven years to restore, the fact you take a horse drawn carriage from the gate to the entrance and the fact you are showered in divine rose petals as you are escorted to the entrance of the palace is beyond luxury.” Terri Cordin, Wildlife Safari

EDITOR’S PICK:

Mandarin Oriental Bangkok for its outstanding service and refined fusion of historical details and contemporary design. Read our review on page 156.

Best Australian luxury resort

1. One&Only Hayman Island, QLD One&Only Hayman Island has crept back to the top this year, beating out last year’s winner, qualia. Unfortunately the resort has temporarily closed following the impact of Cyclone Debbie, but we look forward to visiting when it reopens in 2018.

2. qualia, QLD

3. One&Only Wolgan Valley, NSW

GO L D LI ST PANELIST PICK: Lizard Island, QLD

“Seclusion, physical beauty, sun and sea, history and soul: a luxurious Australian tropical island.” Claudia Rossi Hudson, Mary Rossi Travel

ED IT OR ’ S PICK:

The new Elements of Byron brings a little Miami beachside glamour to one of our favourite coastal towns.

4. Lizard Island, QLD

5. Alamanda Palm Cove by Lancemore, QLD

6. Orpheus Island, QLD

7. Cable Beach Club Resort & Spa, WA

8. Bedarra, QLD

9. The Byron at Byron Resort & Spa, NSW

10. Sheraton Grand Mirage Resort, Port Douglas, QLD

THE PENINSULA HONG KONG

Best overseas luxury boutique property, villa or lodge

1. Tokoriki Island Resort, Fiji

This romantic, adults-only retreat set in the Fijian Mamanuca islands wins your vote this year.

2. Huka Lodge, New Zealand

3. Villa Sungai Bali

4. Royal Davui Island Resort Fiji

5. Likuliku Lagoon Resort, Fiji

6. Vomo Island Fiji

7. The Havannah, Vanuatu

8. Matakauri Lodge, New Zealand

9. Blanket Bay, New Zealand

10. Rumours Luxury Villas & Spa, Cook Islands

11. Ceylon Tea Trails, Sri Lanka

12. The Farm at Cape Kidnappers, New Zealand

13. The Remote Resort, Fiji

14. Amandari, Bali

GOLD LIST PANELIST PICK: Palazzo Margherita, Italy

“This Francis Ford Coppola hideaway is located in a relatively unknown location about to burst onto the international scene when the nearby UNESCO World Heritage site of Matera becomes the European Capital of Culture in 2019.”

Claudia Rossi Hudson, Mary Rossi Travel

Best Australian luxury boutique property, villa or lodge

1. Lake House Daylesford, VIC

Lake House rises almost 10 places from last year to triumph as Australia’s best luxury boutique property in 2017.

2. Bells at Killcare Boutique Hotel, Restaurant & Spa, NSW

3. Southern Ocean Lodge, SA

4. Saffire Freycinet, TAS

5. One&Only Wolgan Valley, NSW

6. Mansion Hotel & Spa at Werribee Park, VIC

7. Orpheus Island, QLD

8. Gwinganna Lifestyle Retreat, QLD

9. Jamala Wildlife Lodge, ACT

10. qualia, QLD

11. Lindenderr y at Red Hill, VIC

12. Capella Lodge, NSW

13. Cape Lodge, WA

14. El Questro, WA

15. Lindenwarrah at Milawa, VIC

16. Alamanda Palm Cove by Lancemore, QLD

17. Pretty Beach House, NSW

18. Halcyon House, NSW

19. Larmont Sydney by Lancemore, NSW

20. Golden Door Health Retreat Elysia, Hunter Valley, NSW

21. Longitude 131º, NT

22. Spicers Peak Lodge, QLD

23. Pumphouse Point, TAS

24. Lizard Island, QLD

25. The Olsen, VIC

GOLD LIST PANELIST PICK:

Saffire Freycinet, TAS

“An architectural gem in the middle of the Tasmanian wild bushland. My personal highlight was definitely the oyster tasting in waders in the Freycinet Marine Farm!” Yvonne Verstandig, Executive Edge Travel

EDITOR’S PICK:

We agree with our readers – most of our favourites are on this list. We’re also really excited about the converted regional retreats that are popping up around NSW. See page 16 for our roundup.

LAKE HOUSE

Best overseas luxury resort

1. Sri panwa, Thailand

Phuket’s trendy Sri panwa resort wins this category for the first time this year.

2. Likuliku Lagoon Resort, Fiji

3. InterContinental Bali Resort

4. Vomo Island Fiji

5. The Brando, French Polynesia

6. Ayana Resort & Spa, Bali

7. Four Seasons Resort Bora Bora

8. Tokoriki Island Resort, Fiji

9. The Havannah, Vanuatu

10. Royal Davui Island Resort Fiji

11. Four Seasons Resort, The Nam Hai, Hoi An, Vietnam

12. Pangkor Laut Resort, Malaysia

13. The Mulia, Bali

14. W Bali – Seminyak

15. Six Senses Laamu, Maldives

16. One&Only Reethi Rah, Maldives

17. The St. Regis Bali Resort

18. The Ritz-Carlton, Bali

19. Shangri-La’s Rasa Ria Resort & Spa, Malaysia

20. The St. Regis Bora Bora Resort

21. Al Maha, a Luxury Collection Desert Resort & Spa, Dubai

22. Hilton Hawaiian Village Waikiki Beach Resort

GOLD LIST PANELIST PICK: Nihiwatu, Indonesia

“The isolation, the service and the tranquility.” Danny Englman, FBI Travel

EDITOR’S PICK:

Laucala Island in Fiji is self-sufficient, ultra all-inclusive (even diving, motorised watersports, and all meals and drinks), plus has its own private submarine for guests. Everything you could ever want in a luxury island getaway and so much more.

SRI PANWA, PHUKET

Gold list

Best overseas luxury health and wellness property

1. Kamalaya Koh Samui, Thailand Kamalya continues its reign as the best overseas luxury health and wellness retreat for the second year in a row, again closely followed by Chiva-Som. Take advantage of our exclusive Kamalaya deal on page 48 and read about our recent stay on page 165.

2. Chiva-Som International Health Resort, Thailand

Best Australian luxury health and wellness property

1. Gwinganna Lifestyle Retreat, QLD The Gold Coast’s Gwinganna Lifestyle Retreat has been voted the nation’s best health and wellness retreat for the second year running.

2. Golden Door Health Retreat Elysia, Hunter Valley, NSW

3. Gaia Retreat & Spa, NSW

4. Eden Health Retreat, QLD

5. Billabong Retreat, NSW

6. EMPIRE Retreat, WA

7. Peppers Mineral Springs Hotel, VIC

8. Samadhi Retreat, VIC

GOLD LIST PANELIST PICK: Gaia Retreat & Spa, NSW

“A true healing experience. The combination of their staff, treatments on offer, organic food, and spirituality of the land ensure you leave feeling revived and nurtured.” Yvonne Verstandig, Executive Edge Travel

EDITOR’S PICK:

Gwinganna Lifestyle Retreat stands out from the crowd because of the incredibly knowledgable and passionate staff who really do want you to succeed and be your best self. They always have a genuine smile and, despite the luxurious surroundings, there is nothing pretentious about the place.

Best Australian luxury property within driving distance of the city

1. One&Only Wolgan Valley, NSW

One&Only takes out another category in this year’s Gold List Awards with its Wolgan Valley property in the New South Wales Blue Mountains. The lucky winner of our Gold List Awards voting competition will have the chance to experience this property first hand.

2. Lake House, Daylesford, VIC

17. Chateau Yering Hotel, VIC

18. Milton Park Country House Hotel & Spa, NSW

19. The Hydro Majestic Hotel, NSW

GOLD LIST PANELIST PICK:

One&Only Wolgan Valley, NSW

“You can drive there but you should go at least one way by chopper. This is a luxury country hotel with a grand vision and even grander vistas.” Claudia Rossi Hudson, Mary Rossi Travel

GOLD LIST PANELIST PICK: Chiva-Som International Health Resort, Thailand

“Still the pinnacle of the wellness world…”

Danny Englman, FBI Travel

EDITOR’S PICK:

The healing energy you feel at Kamalaya is unmatched. We love its natural beauty, the skilled specialists and the tailored programs that can include as little or as much as you like.

NSW

11. Spicers Peak Lodge, QLD

12. Cape Lodge, WA

13. The Schaller Studio, VIC

14. Kims Beachside Retreat, NSW

15. Lindenwarrah at Milawa, VIC

16. Halcyon House, NSW

EDITOR’S PICK:

Driving distance from the Gold Coast and Byron Bay, NSW’s Halcyon House combines playful interiors with a relaxed, beachside ambiance, striking the perfect balance for a luxurious weekend getaway.

3. COMO Shambhala Estate, Bali

4. Aro Ha, New Zealand

5. Spa Village Resort Tembok Bali

6. Canyon Ranch, Arizona

3. Mansion Hotel & Spa at Werribee Park, VIC

4. Bells at Killcare Boutique Hotel, Restaurant & Spa, NSW

5. Gwinganna Lifestyle Retreat, QLD

6. Pretty Beach House, NSW

7. Lindenderr y at Red Hill, VIC

8. Lilianfels Blue Mountains Resort & Spa, NSW

9. Saffire Freycinet, TAS

10. Golden Door Health Retreat Elysia, Hunter Valley,

GWINGANNA LIFESTYLE RETREAT

Best New Zealand luxury property within driving distance of the city

1. Huka Lodge, Taupo

After placing second in two categories last year, Huka Lodge finally wins the top spot for New Zealand in 2017.

2. Matakauri Lodge, Queenstown

3. Blanket Bay, Queenstown

4. The Farm at Cape Kidnappers, Hawke’s Bay

5. Otahuna Lodge, Christchurch

6. Azur Lodge, Queenstown

7. Kauri Cliffs, Matauri Bay

8. Millbrook Resort, Arrowtown

9. Eagles Nest, Bay of Islands

10. Wharekauhau Country Estate, Wairarapa

GOLD LIST PANELIST PICK: Otahuna Lodge, Christchurch

“A short drive from Christchurch takes you to Otahuna Lodge, a glorious property of heritage and prestige. Built as a private residence the house is full of antiques and artworks with plenty of nooks where you can relax.” Terri Cordin, Wildlife Safari

EDITOR’S PICK:

At Hapuku Lodge and Tree Houses in the seaside town of Kaikoura you can sleep among the treetops in canopy-level rooms that look out over the property’s deer park and the surrounding ocean. You might even be lucky enough to spot a whale.

Gold list

Best Australian luxury property for families

1. One&Only Hayman Island, QLD

One&Only Hayman Island is clearly a family favourite, with 2017 marking the property’s third consecutive victory in this category. The huge family rooms, with two separate suites connected through a shared foyer, offer the perfect balance of closeness and privacy.

2. Crown Towers Perth, WA

3. One&Only Wolgan Valley, NSW

4. Alamanda Palm Cove by Lancemore, QLD

5. Jamala Wildlife Lodge, ACT

6. Cable Beach Club Resort & Spa, WA

7. Sheraton Grand Mirage Resort, Port Douglas, QLD

8. Sheraton Grand Mirage Resort, Gold Coast, QLD

9. Hamilton Island Yacht Club Villas, QLD

10. Pullman Port Douglas Sea Temple Resort & Spa, QLD

G OLD LIST PANELIST PICK:

Orpheus Island Resort, QLD

“Small and intimate Great Barrier Reef island experience with great staff offering a super flexible stay with plenty of activities to keep the whole family engaged.”

Yvonne Verstandig, Executive Edge Travel

E DITO R’ S PICK:

Ever since its renovation in 2016, Sheraton Grand Mirage Resort in Port Douglas has been an excellent choice for families. The all inclusive SPG Kids Pass is great for parents with young kids.

HUKA LODGE

Winter at Lake House…

Two Chefs Hats

The Australian Wine List Hall of Fame

The Australian Wine List Hall of Fame

The Australian Hot 50 Restaurants

The Australian Hot 50 Restaurants

Australia’s Top 50 Hotels

Australia’s Top 50 Hotels

Australasia’s Best Spa Experience

Australasia’s Best Spa Experience

Australia’s Best Regional Property

Australia’s Best Regional Property

Australia’s Best Food & Wine Experience

Australia’s Best Food & Wine Experience

#lakehousedaylesford

#lakehousedaylesford

Best overseas luxury property for families

1. Vomo Island Fiji

As always, Fiji proves to be a popular family holiday location, with Vomo Island placing first for the second year in a row.

2. Jean-Michel Cousteau Resort, Fiji

3. InterContinental Bali Resort

4. Atlantis, The Palm, Dubai

5. Castaway Island, Fiji

6. InterContinental Fiji Golf Resort & Spa

7. Shangri-La’s Rasa Sentosa Resort & Spa, Singapore

8. Turtle Island, Fiji

9. W Bali – Seminyak

10. Hilton Hawaiian Village Waikiki Beach Resort

GOLD LIST PANELIST PICK: Jean-Michel Cousteau Resort, Fiji

“Education and fun in a beautiful setting with an eco focus.” Claudia Rossi Hudson, Mary Rossi Travel

EDITOR’S PICK:

If the 11 swimming pools at Ayana Bali aren’t enough to keep the kids entertained the recently renovated RIMBA kids club offers a daily activity program including cooking classes, rock climbing and Balinese dress ups.

Gold list

Best Australian luxury romantic property

1. qualia, QLD

Another property sadly hit by Cyclone Debbie, the ultra-luxe qualia will reopen in June. It’s still top of our readers’ minds though and takes out this category for the second year in a row.

2. Lake House Daylesford, VIC

3. Mansion Hotel & Spa at Werribee Park, VIC

4. One&Only Hayman Island, QLD

5. Lizard Island, QLD

6. Saffire Freycinet, TAS

7. One&Only Wolgan Valley, NSW

8. Alamanda Palm Cove by Lancemore, QLD

9. Southern Ocean Lodge, SA

10. Lindenderr y at Red Hill, VIC

11. Bells at Killcare Boutique Hotel, Restaurant & Spa, NSW

12. Lilianfels Blue Mountains Resort & Spa, NSW

13. Capella Lodge, NSW

14. Pumphouse Point, TAS

15. Kims Beachside Retreat, NSW

16. Pretty Beach House, NSW

17. Bedarra, QLD

18. Longitude 131º, NT

GOLD LIST PANELIST PICK: Spicers Sangoma Retreat, NSW

“A tranquil bush luxury getaway one hour from Sydney. For that special romantic interlude go for the Chief Suite with a chandelier over the bath and the best views on property.” Yvonne Verstandig, Executive Edge Travel

QUALIA

Best overseas luxury romantic property

1. Tokoriki Island Resort, Fiji Fiji has found favour with couples as well as families in this year’s Gold List Awards, with Fijian properties occupying the top three spots. Tokoriki takes the gold here in addition to being voted the best overseas luxury boutique property.

2. Royal Davui Island Resort Fiji

3. Likuliku Lagoon Resort, Fiji

4. Sri panwa, Phuket, Thailand

5. Four Seasons Resort Bora Bora

6. The Havannah, Vanuatu

7. Villa d’Este, Italy

8. InterContinental Bali Resort

9. Rumours Luxury Villas & Spa, Cook Islands

10. Ashford Castle, Ireland

11. Ayana Resort & Spa, Bali

12. The Brando, French Polynesia

13. Pangkor Laut Resort, Malaysia

14. One&Only Reethi Rah, Maldives

15. Yasawa Island Resort & Spa, Fiji

GOLD LIST PANELIST PICK:

Constance Halaveli, Maldives

“There is something about being on a private island surrounded by the aquamarine waters of the Indian Ocean in your overwater villa that is truly romantic...a serious slice of paradise.”

Terri Cordin, Wildlife Safari

EDITOR’S PICK:

Anantara Medjumbe Island Resort, Mozambique

Go right off the grid on this tiny strip of an island in an impossibly beautiful archipelago. It’s a private adults-only escape with just 12 rustic-chic pool villas. You’ll never want to leave.

Best Australian ski property (hotel or lodge)

1. QT Falls Creek

QT Falls proves itself to be a stalwart in the Australian ski scene, marking its fourth consecutive year as the nation’s favourite ski property.

2. Thredbo Alpine Hotel

3. Ski In Ski Out Chalets Thredbo

4.

Best overseas ski property (hotel or lodge)

1. The Little Nell, Aspen The Little Nell has been named the best overseas ski property for five years running. Welcome to the Hall of Fame!

2. Four Seasons Resort and Residences Whistler

3. Fairmont Chateau Whistler

4. The Green Leaf Niseko Village

5. The Westin Whistler Resort & Spa

6. The Lodge Verbier

7. Azur Lodge, Queenstown

8. Park Hyatt Beaver Creek Resort and Spa

9. Nita Lake Lodge, Whistler

GOLD LIST PANELIST PICK: Hotel & Spa Rosa Alpina, Italy

“This family owned boutique property has Hugo Pizzinini on property 24/7 ensuring the smooth running of his superb hotel. A meal at the two-star Michelin restaurant St Hubertus is a must!” Yvonne Verstandig, Executive Edge Travel

EDITOR’S PICK:

It is so luxurious to be able to put your skis on and take off straight from your hotel. It’s the norm in Europe and North America, but more of a rarity in Australia. At Thedbo’s Ski In Ski Out Chalets, you’ll open the door right onto the famed Crackenback Supertrail. Then at night, return to stone fireplaces, steam rooms and spa baths.

The Denman Hotel Thredbo

5. Mt Buller Chalet Hotel & Suites

6. Hotel Pension Grimus, Mt Buller

7. Burnt Hut, Mt Buller

8. Zirky’s, Mt Hotham

9. Rockpool Lodge, Thredbo

TOKORIKI

ASPEN, HOME OF THE LITTLE NELL

Best Australian ski resort

1. Thredbo

Thredbo continues its reign as your favourite Australian ski resort for the ninth consecutive year.

2. Falls Creek

3. Perisher

4. Mt Hotham

5. Mt Buller

6. Dinner Plain

7. Charlotte Pass

GOLD LIST PANELIST PICK: Perisher

“Miles of skiing for all grades; good access for crosscountryskiing;veryaccessible.” Claudia Rossi Hudson, Mary Rossi Travel

Best overseas ski resort

1. Whistler Blackcomb, Canada

Whistler Blackcomb has taken back its reign after being toppled from the top spot by Aspen in last year’s Gold List.

2. Aspen, USA

3. Niseko, Japan

4. Zermatt, Switzerland

5. Vail, USA

6. Chamonix, France

7. Beaver Creek, USA

8. Telluride, USA

9. Big White, Canada

10. St Anton, Austria

11. Verbier, Switzerland

12. St Moritz, Switzerland

13. Banff, Canada

14. Wanaka, New Zealand

15. Mammoth Mountain, USA

16. Breckenridge, USA

GOLD LIST PANELIST PICK:

Lech Zürs am Arlberg, Austria

“Lech is a true international ski resort with an abundance of luxury accommodation, extensive restaurant choices and the largest continuous ski area in Austria. Head to one of the many lively apres-ski bars for an Aperol Spritz in true Arlberg style.” Yvonne Verstandig, Executive Edge Travel

EDITOR’S PICK:

With LATAM now operating direct flights from Australia to Chile, Portillo Ski Resort, set against the spectacular backdrop of the Andes Mountain and Laguna del Inca, should definitely be in Australian skiers’ sights.

Best first class airline

1. Emirates Congratulations to Emirates for being voted the best first class airline again this year.

2. Qantas

3. Singapore Airlines

4. Etihad Airways

5. Qatar Airways

6. Cathay Pacific

7. British Airways

8. Thai Airways

GOLD LIST PANELIST PICK: Etihad Airways

“The Etihad Apartments on their A380s are unmatched in size and comfort.”

Danny Englman, FBI Travel

EDITOR’S PICK:

Singapore Airlines invented the first class private suite and it remains one of the best in the sky. We can’t wait to see what their revamped first class suites on the new A380 bring.

Best business class airline

1. Qantas

Qantas has won best business class airline in seven of the last eight Gold List Awards. Our national carrier continues to innovate with the recent launch of free in-flight WiFi.

2. Emirates

3. Singapore Airlines

4. Etihad Airways

5. Cathay Pacific

6. Qatar Airways

7. Virgin Australia

8. Air New Zealand

GOLD LIST PANELIST PICK: Emirates

“Space and comfort go hand in hand along with consistency with their Business Class product. I always listen to the welcome announcement and the languages spoken by the talented international crew.” Terri Cordin, Wildlife Safari

THREDBO

QANTAS

Best overseas city

1. Paris

Nobody will be surprised to see Paris voted as the best overseas city yet again this year. Our cover this issue features an illustration of the city of love created by the talented Megan Hess.

GOLD LIST PANELIST PICK: New York City

“Forever buzzing, vibrant city that never sleeps. Each time you return there is something new to explore.”

Yvonne Verstandig, Executive Edge Travel

EDITOR’S PICK:

A less obvious choice but one that you should add to your bucket list is the up and coming luxury hotspot Mexico City. Read our insider’s guide on page 72.

Gold list

Best luxury rail journey

1. The Ghan, Adelaide to Darwin

Great Southern Rail’s journey from Adelaide to Darwin is the first winner of this newly introduced category after winning best luxury rail company five times in a row in previous years.

2. Rocky Mountaineer, Vancouver to Banff

3. Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, London to Venice

4. The Indian Pacific, Sydney to Perth

5. Glacier Express, Zermatt to St Moritz

6. The Blue Train, Pretoria to Cape Town

7. Eastern & Oriental Express, Singapore to Bangkok

8. Golden Eagle Trans-Siberian Express, Moscow to Vladivostok

9. Rovos Rail, Pretoria to Capetown

Best overseas country

1. Italy

Italy has been a Gold List favourite for many years and continues to impress visitors with its stunning landscapes, gourmet food and enticing wine experiences.

GOLD LIST PANELIST PICK: South Africa

“South Africa has so much for the traveller in search of experiences, sights and adventure. It is not just about the wildlife. The country has so much to offer and is so accessible from Australia. Ever changing and always something new to discover.” Terri Cordin, Wildlife Safari

GOLD LIST PANELIST PICK:

Belmond Royal Scotsman - Highland Journey

“Two amazing days to sample what Scotland is all about. It’s not about the luxury – it’s the experience that you will remember.”

Claudia Rossi Hudson, Mary Rossi Travel

Best Australian golf resort

1. The Dunes at Barnbougle, TAS

The Dunes has maintained its status as your favourite Australian golf resort after first winning the category last year.

2. Hamilton Island Golf Club, QLD

3. Bonville Golf Resort, NSW

4. Peppers Moonah Links Resort, VIC

5. InterContinental Sanctuar y Cove Resort, QLD

6. The Vines Resort & Country Club, WA

7. Pullman Magenta Shores Resort, NSW

8. Cypress Lakes Golf & Country Club, NSW

9. Cape Wickham Links, TAS

10. Noosa Springs Golf & Spa Resort, QLD

GOLD LIST PANELIST PICK:

The Dunes at Barnbougle, TAS

“Golfing nirvana on Tasmania’s northern coast.” Yvonne Verstandig, Executive Edge Travel

Gold list

Best luxury ocean cruise brand

1. Silversea

Silversea has had a big year in 2017, unveiling their new flagship Silver Muse, which sailed its maiden voyage in April.

2. Seabourn Cruise Line

3. Cunard Line

4. Crystal Cruises

5. Regent Seven Seas Cruises

6. Oceania Cruises

7. Azamara Club Cruises

Best overseas golf resort

1. The Farm at Cape Kidnappers, New Zealand

Congratulations to The Farm at Cape Kidnappers for their sixth consecutive win.

2. St Andrews Links, Scotland

3. Pebble Beach, USA

3 G

4. Intercontinental Fiji Golf Resort & Spa

5. Gleneagles, Scotland

6. Kauri Cliffs, New Zealand

7. Millbrook Resort, New Zealand

8. Pan Pacific Nirwana Bali Resort

9. Sun City, South Africa

10. Argentario Golf Resort & Spa, Italy

11. Jack’s Point, New Zealand

12. Bandon Dunes Golf Resort, USA

GOLD LIST PANELIST PICK:

Shangri-La’s Villingili Resort & Spa, Maldives

“The nine hole golf course found on the island of Villingili is the only one of its kind in the Maldives. My favourite spot is the Club House with its incredible ocean views. Such a location!” Terri Cordin, Wildlife Safari

EDITOR’S PICK:

We agree with our readers on this one, the New Zealand golf offerings are among the best in the world. See our Golf Vietnam story (page 122) for new golf resorts on the rise.

8. Ponant

9. SeaDream Yacht Club

10. Hapag-Lloyd Cruises

11. Paul Gauguin Cruises

GOLD LIST PANELIST PICK: Silversea

“Silversea Muse has just been launched –this is now the best of the best in ocean cruising.” Danny Englman, FBI Travel

THE DUNES AT BARNBOUGLE

SILVER MUSE

Best luxury river cruise brand

1. Scenic Congratulations to Scenic, the first ever winner of this new category.

2. APT

3. Uniworld Boutique River Cruise Collection

4. Viking River Cruises

5. Avalon Waterways

6. Tauck

7. Crystal Cruises

GOLD LIST PANELIST PICK:

Uniworld Boutique River Cruise Collection

“Not just nice ships going through extraordinary landscapes; these are extraordinary ships that make you feel part of the region and not just an observer.”

Claudia Rossi Hudson, Mary Rossi Travel

EDITOR’S PICK:

We like Belmond and its stylish Orcaella, taking guests on a spectacular journey through Myanmar both on-board and off. The ship has a near 1:1 staff to guest ratio and plenty of space for lounging by the pool on deck.

Best luxury expedition cruise brand

1. True North Adventure Cruises

Formerly known as North Star Cruises, this local line has been voted your favourite expedition cruise brand in this new category for its luxury cruises to the Kimberley, West Papua and Papua New Guinea.

2. Great Escape Charter Company

3. Silversea

4. Ponant

5. Scenic

6. Lindblad Expeditions-National Geographic

7. Abercrombie & Kent

8. Seabourn Cruise Line

9. APT

10. Crystal Cruises

GOLD LIST PANELIST PICK: Lindblad Expeditions-National Geographic “No one does expeditions like National Geographic.” Danny Englman, FBI Travel

EDITOR’S PICK:

Scenic is our homegrown cruise success story and the new Scenic Eclipse, launching in mid-2018, is going to be a game changer for the industry.

Best luxury eco tourism property

1. El Questro, WA

This year’s finalist list is dominated by Australian properties, with Western Australia’s El Questro coming out on top, after placing third in last year’s voting.

2. Sals Salis Ningaloo Reef, WA

3. The Brando, French Polynesia

4. Gwinganna Lifestyle Retreat, QLD

5. One&Only Wolgan Valley, NSW

6. Southern Ocean Lodge, SA

7. Daintree Wilderness Lodge, QLD

8. Karinji Eco Retreat, WA

9. Longitude 131º, NT

10. Arkaba, SA

11. Bay of Fires Lodge, TAS

12. Saffire Freycinet, TAS

13. Peppers Cradle Mountain Lodge, TAS

14. O’Reilly’s Rainforest Retreat, QLD

15. Jean-Michel Cousteau Resort, Fiji

16. Gaya Island Resort, Malaysia

GOLD LIST PANELIST PICK:

Fregate Island Private, Seychelles

“Known as The Jewel of Conservation, Fregate is the original eco-hideaway in the Seychelles. Enjoy a nature walk with one of the island’s conservationists or ecologists to truly understand how the resort protects and nurtures the unique natural environment.”

Yvonne Verstandig, Executive Edge Travel

WATERFALLS CLOSE TO EL QUESTRO

Best luxury travel agency

1. FBI Travel Congratulations to FBI Travel for being voted best luxury travel agency for the third year in a row!

2. Mar y Rossi Travel

3. Executive Edge Travel

4. Gregor & Lewis Bespoke Travel

5. Oasis Travel

6. Clean Cruising

7. Escape Travel

8. Phil Hoffmann Travel 9. Concierge Traveller

10. Goldman Travel Corporation

11. The Tailor

12. Travel Associates

Best luxury tour operator

1. Insight Vacations Insight Vacations has interrupted Scenic’s winning streak, rising from eighth place to win this category. The company’s Luxury Gold tours offer a range of exclusive VIP experiences around the world.

2. Scenic

3. Abercrombie & Kent

4. APT

5. Tauck

6. Great Escape Charter Company

7. Captain’s Choice

8. Walk into Luxury

9. Butterfield & Robinson

Gold list

Best Australian food and wine property

1. Lake House Daylesford, VIC Lake House enjoys another well-deserved victory in this category in 2017.

2. Bells at Killcare Boutique Hotel, Restaurant & Spa, NSW

3. Lindenderr y at Red Hill, VIC

4. The Louise, SA

5. Cape Lodge, WA

6. Chateau Yering Hotel, VIC

7. Saffire Freycinet, TAS

8. Southern Ocean Lodge, NSW

9. Brae, VIC

10. Balgownie Estate Vineyard Resort & Spa, VIC

11. Port Phillip Estate, VIC

12. One&Only Wolgan Valley, NSW

13. MONA Pavilions, TAS

14. Meletos, VIC

15. Polperro, VIC

GOLD LIST PANELIST PICK: Jackalope, VIC

“A contemporary boutique hotel perched at the forefront of an 11-hectare vineyard offering a new standard of luxury in the Mornington Peninsula. Includes wine tasting in the barrel room, two cool bars and two outstanding restaurants to choose from.” Yvonne Verstandig, Executive Edge Travel

LAKE HOUSE WINE CELLAR

Best Australian food and

wine

region

1. Margaret River, WA

A winning mix of exceptional wineries, delicious local produce and unbeatable surf puts Margaret River on top in this category.

2. Barossa Valley, SA

3. Hunter Valley, NSW

4. Yarra Valley, VIC

5. Mornington Peninsula, VIC

6. McLaren Vale, SA

7. Clare Valley, SA

8. Orange, NSW

9. King Valley, VIC

10. Swan Valley, WA

11. Tamar Valley, TAS

12. Adelaide Hills, SA

13. Mudgee, NSW

14. Daylesford, VIC

15. Rutherglen, VIC

GOLD LIST PANELIST PICK: Margaret River, WA

“A destination of discovery each time you visit. Always a new restaurant to check out, a new cellar door is open or a new craft beer is being brewed.”

Terri Cordin, Wildlife Safari

Best new property

1. Crown Towers Perth

Crown Towers Perth takes out a second victory in this year’s Gold List Awards as your favourite new property worldwide.

2. QT Melbourne

3. Jackalope, VIC

4. Kokomo Island Fiji

5. Soneva Jani, Maldives

6. Amanemu, Japan

7. The St. Regis Maldives Vommuli Resort

8. The Whitby Hotel, New York

9. Six Senses Zil Pasyon, Seychelles

10. Four Seasons Hotel London at Ten Trinity Square

11. Conrad Bora Bora Nui

12. Wynn Palace, Macau

13. Thanda Island, Tanzania

14. Il Sereno Hotel, Italy

15. The Marlborough Lodge, New Zealand

16. Thousand Lakes Wilderness Lodge, TAS

GOLD LIST PANELIST PICK: Milaidhoo Island, Maldives

“Small and private in the Baa Atoll. I so want to dine in the open air Ba’theli restaurant feasting on food inspired by the Maldivian spice route.”

Best luxury Australian adventure experience

1. True North Adventure Cruises, Kimberley Wilderness Cruise, WA True North wins its second award in this year’s Gold List with the Kimberley Wilderness Cruise being voted Australia’s number one luxury adventure experience.

2. The Great Escape Charter Company, Kimberley Cruise, WA

3. Bay of Fires Lodge Walk, TAS

4. El Questro, WA

5. Horizontal Falls Seaplane Adventures, WA

6. Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef, WA

7. Cradle Mountain Huts Walk, TAS

8. Arkaba Walk, SA

9. Three Capes Track, TAS

10. Maria Island Walk, TAS

GOLD LIST PANELIST PICK: Arkaba Walk, SA

“Walk and glamp in the stunning rugged outback in the Flinders Ranges. Step out and step back in time.” Claudia Rossi Hudson, Mary Rossi Travel

EDITOR’S PICK:

There’s nothing like washing down the chef’s legendary oysters kilpatrick with a glass of champagne and savouring a spectacular Kimberley sunset from the observation deck of True North on a Kimberley Wilderness Cruise.

Terri Cordin, Wildlife Safari

EDITOR’S PICK:

The transformation of Cape Town’s historic grain silo building into a contemporary luxury hotel has The Silo on our must visit list for 2017. Read about the Presidential Suite on page 153.

HALL OF FAME 3 G

1. The Peninsula Hong Kong for Best overseas luxury hotel

2. The Little Nell for Best overseas ski property or lodge

3. Thredbo for Best Australian ski resort

4. Qantas for best business class airline

5. The Ghan Adelaide to Darwin for Best luxury rail journey

6. The Farm at Cape Kidnappers for Best overseas golf resort

TRUE NORTH KIMBERLY WILDERNESS CRUISE

QUEENSTOWN IS SPECTACULAR

AZUR ENABLES YOU TO BE PART OF THE SCENERY

Enjoy un-obstructed views from your private villa.

Whether you are after the thrill of an adrenaline rush or the tranquility of nature, complemented by personalised service, luxury and privacy – Azur is the choice.

www.azur.co.nz

THAILAND

MONSOON SEASON IN THAILAND MEANS GREAT DEALS ON LUXURY RESORTS. HAPPILY, RAIN AROUND THE COAST AND ISLANDS IS USUALLY RESTRICTED TO AN AFTERNOON DOWNPOUR THAT BRINGS BLISSFUL RELIEF FROM AN OTHERWISE STEAMY DAY. GRACE SMITH BREAKS DOWN SOME OF THE BEST LUXURY DEALS THAILAND HAS ON OFFER RIGHT NOW.

THIRD NIGHT FREE AT THE SIAM

Set on three riverfront acres in Bangkok’s historic Dusit district, The Siam offers a spacious retreat just 20 minutes from the city’s main shopping destination, Siam Square. The 39-room hotel has some of the largest suites in Bankgok as well as a spa, library, cooking school, yoga terrace, pool and a muay Thai boxing ring. The Siam also has its own private river pier, offering guests a speedboat shuttle to central Sathorn Pier.

Special: Stay two nights and receive a third night free.

Inclusions: Daily breakfast for two, butler service, THB1,000 (about A$39) credit per room for use at the Opium Spa, complimentary WiFi and in-house movies, and private cruise between the hotel and Bangkok’s central Sathorn Pier. *Rates start from THB16,173 (about A$625) per night for a Siam Suite. Offer valid for stays until 23 December, 2017.

DISCOUNTED STAY AND FREE MASSAGE AT KAMALAYA

Kamalaya is a holistic spa resort offering customised wellness programs in a secluded Koh Samui setting. Voted as the best overseas luxury health and wellness property in our 2017 Gold List Awards, Kamalaya has a team of naturopaths, yoga instructors, massage therapists, acupuncturists and dieticians who help guests recover from stress and burnout, detoxify the body and improve overall health and fitness. (Read about our visit to Kamalaya on page 165.)

Special: Stay seven nights or more and receive a five per cent discount and a free massage with any wellness program booking. This special is available exclusively to Luxury Travel readers.

Inclusions: Initial Wellness Consultation, Body Bio-impedance Analysis (BIA), use of pools, steam caverns, fitness and yoga facilities, access to scheduled holistic activities including Yoga, Pilates, Tai Chi and Qi Gong and tropical welcome drink.

* Rates start from THB54,576 (about A$2,112) for the three-night Relax and Renew package. Offer valid for stays until 31 October, 2017 and subject to availability. Contact property directly to redeem.

“ The 39-room hotel has some of the largest suites in Bankgok as well as a spa, library, cooking school, yoga terrace, pool and a muay Thai boxing ring. ”

THE LOBBY AT THE SIAM LUXURY TRAVEL EXCLUSIVE

LUXE-FOR-LESS THAILAND

EXCLUSIVE ROOM UPGRADE ON GLORIOUS GREEN SEASON PACKAGE

Four Seasons Resort Chiang Mai is tucked away among the lush hills and terraced rice fields of the Mae Rim Valley, just an hour’s flight from Bangkok. Guests have complimentary access to cultural experiences such as rice planting, buffalo bathing and introductory Thai language classes, as well as active excursions like mountain biking, nature trails and sunset yoga.

Special: Book the Glorious Green Season package and save up to 20 per cent, plus Luxury Travel readers will receive a guaranteed room upgrade.

Inclusions: Daily buffet breakfast for two, one private set dinner for two, one couple’s Rice & Spice Scrub or Aloe & Lavender Wrap treatment, internet access for up to four devices plus a guaranteed room upgrade.

* Rates start from THB15,750 (about A$606) per night. Minimum stay is two nights. Offer valid until 30 September, 2017, check hotel website for details.

To redeem your exclusive room upgrade, email prodpran yuphadee@fourseasons.com after booking your Glorious Green Season package and mention this deal.

Above clockwise from top left:

A room at Four Seasons Chiang Mai; Connie's Cottage at The Siam; the grounds at Four Seasons Chiang Mai.

Right: Sea View Villa at Kamalaya.

BANGKOK CITY BREAK AT COMO

Located in the Sathorn CBD, COMO Metropolitan Bangkok boasts modern, light-filled rooms that offer a convenient base from which to explore to city’s busiest streets. The property’s on-site restaurant, nahm, headed by Australian chef David Thompson, is currently ranked the fifth best in Asia.

Special: Book two nights or more at COMO Metropolitan Bangkok and receive two free massages and daily breakfast.

Inclusions: Daily breakfasts for two from the COMO Shambhala Cuisine menu and two 60-minute COMO Shambhala massages.

* Rates start from THB5,300 (about A$204) plus taxes per night for a city room. Minimum stay is two nights. Offer validity is variable; check hotel website for details.

TWO FREE NIGHTS AT SONEVA KIRI, KOH KOOD

Set on Thailand’s least populated island, Soneva Kiri is a remote retreat surrounded by tropical rainforest and white-sand beaches. The all-villa resort has its own open-air floating cinema, a private beach and an observatory as well as five separate dining venues. Each villa comes with a private pool and an electric buggy for navigating around the island, as well as complimentary access to yoga and meditation classes, kids’ club, Thai language classes and more.

Special: Stay for five nights and get two nights free OR stay three nights and get one night free.

Inclusions: Complimentary breakfast and dinner daily. Plus, Luxury Travel readers will also receive one complimentary lunch at North Beach for all paying guests. To redeem this exclusive extra, use the discount code RLXMJ17.

* Rates start from US$1,801 (about A$2,395) per night. Offer valid for stays until 30 June, 2017.

Below: Ground floor rooms have direct access to the 120-metre lagoon pool at Let's Sea Hua Hin.

Opposite page clockwise from left: COMO Metropolitan Bangkok; pool at Soneva Kiri; oceanfront pool villa at Trisara.

LUXURY TRAVEL EXCLUSIVE

LUXE-FOR-LESS THAILAND

SAVE 40% AT TRISARA PHUKET

Occupying a picturesque private cove on Phuket’s northwest coast, every suite and villa at Trisara features sweeping views of the Andaman Sea, as well as its own private pool. The resort offers luxury motor yachts, a kids’ club, two tennis courts, hosted excursions, and a digital studio that helps guests document their stay through film and photography.

Special: Book 40 days in advance of your trip and receive 40 per cent off the best available rate.

Inclusions: Complimentary breakfast, private airport transfers, unlimited WiFi, designer beach bag, nonmotorised water sports, tennis and gym

* Rates start from A$817 per night. Offer valid for stays until 31 October, 2017.

EXTRA 10% OFF 'LOVE IS BY THE SEA' PACKAGE AT LET’S SEA HUA HIN

Once a summer getaway for the Thai royal family, Hua Hin is now a vibrant mix of bustling street

markets, city skyscrapers and idyllic beaches. Let’s Sea Hua Hin Al Fresco Resort is set right on the town’s main beach, with a 120-metre lagoon pool spanning the entire length of the resort to ensure each of the 40 rooms has a water view. A favourite with golf lovers, Let’s Sea Hua Hin is within easy driving distance of nine world-class golf courses as well as a number of tourist hotspots including the temple-topped hill of Khao Takiab and Pala-U waterfall.

Special: Luxury Travel readers receive an extra 10 per cent off the already discounted Love Is By The Sea package OR 15 per cent off when booked with the Z-Luxe Club upgrade. Inclusions: Gourmet breakfast, high-speed internet and daily mini-bar allowance. See website for details on Z-Luxe Club inclusions.

* Rates start from THB6,179 (about A$239) per night. Offer valid until 31 December, 2017. To redeem your extra 10 per cent discount, enter the code Luxe for Less when booking.

For more information on these deals head to luxurytravelmag.com.au/luxe-less

THE GREAT ICELANDIC

escape

STEVE M c KENNA IS BEGUILED BY THE MAGICAL LANDSCAPES AND AGE-OLD TRADITIONS OF THE LAND OF FIRE AND ICE.

espite being cast away in the North Atlantic Ocean, shrouded in volcanic activity, Iceland has an increasingly magnetic allure. Tourism is booming, with annual visitor numbers tripling in the past decade; they now top 1.7 million, more than five times Iceland’s population.

Most travellers stick to a tried-andtrusted circuit: they potter around Reykjavik, the quirky and creative Icelandic capital, soak in the milky, mineral-rich geothermal waters of the Blue Lagoon spa, and road trip around the Golden Circle – a jaw-dropping route fringed with bubbling mud pots, spewing geysers and rainbow-tinged waterfalls. Relatively few tourists, however, venture onto the Snaefellsnes peninsula.

This surreal, spindly finger of land is a two-hour drive northwest of Reykjavik, but feels blissfully rugged and remote, its mostly empty roads threading past eerie, crinkly lava fields, giant basalt columns and pastoral fields dotted with cuddly sheep and beautiful Icelandic horses.

Every now and then, we glimpse a colourful farmhouse or a hamlet, a volcano or a glacier. “We call this ‘Iceland in Miniature’,” says our driver, Kristjan Gudmundsson, an amiable, bearded, barrel-chested character who traces his ancestry back to Ingolfur Arnarson, the first Viking to settle on Iceland in 874.

Snaefellsnes, explains Kristjan, boasts its moniker because it contains many of the flavours and sights that typify a country shaped by a hardy Nordic spirit and Mother Nature’s mercurial ways. Iceland nestles on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates drift apart, sparking sporadic, and occasionally earth-shattering, volcanic events; the 2010 eruptions of

the Eyjafjallajokull volcano, for instance, spawned a giant ash cloud that shut down European airspace.

Despite a faint whiff of sulphur in the air – it’s a smell you get used to when exploring Iceland – all seems peaceful today, as we hop in a boat in the quaint little harbour of Grundarfjordur, a sleepy fishing village on Snaefellsnes’ north coast. Zipping into the bay’s serene, deep-blue waters, we gawp back at Grundarfjordur’s dramatic setting.

Jutting by the shore is Kirkjufell, a coneshaped mountain that graces so many of Iceland’s tourist brochures. Lurking in the backdrop is Snaefellsjokull, a sprawling ice cap that acted as the doorway in Jules Verne’s sci-fi novel A Journey to the Center of Earth, and is regarded as one of the planet’s great ‘energy centres’ by New Age travellers. We’re jolted out of collective daydream by a cacophony of squawking and squabbling as we near Melrakkaey, a tiny offshore island that’s a sanctuary for seabirds, such as kittiwakes, cormorants, Arctic terns and, of most interest to us, puffins.

Seeing these adorable ‘clowns of the sea’, perched on the craggy rocks, elicits coos

Above: Horse riding on Longufjorur beach.

Opposite: Turf houses in Laufaskirkja, Nordurland.

and ‘aahs’ from my co-passengers (along with a few curses about the lack of zoom on their smartphone cameras).

Leaving Melrakkaey behind, we’re handed fishing rods by the crew and told it’s time we caught our dinner. Over the next half-hour, as flocks of terns circle noisily above, angling for a feed, our 20-strong group reels in a few dozen cod – plus a catfish that puts up a mighty fight.

Our haul is gutted and cleaned by the crew and later we enjoy a delicious grilled fishy feast at Hotel Framnes, a former fishermen’s hostel converted into a snug waterfront hotel and restaurant, with a sauna and outdoor hot tub. In this part of the country, accommodation is generally more traditional and rustic than swanky and stylish, but you’ll find that it’s warm and cosy, and the food, by and large, is excellent, with tasty servings of say, North Atlantic salmon, Arctic char and tender Icelandic lamb, followed by desserts such as skyr (a creamy yoghurt-like dairy treat), par for the course.

Dining in Iceland may come as a pleasant surprise considering the country’s worldfamous reputation for odd delicacies like rams’ testicles, singed sheep heads and hakarl (fermented shark meat). We sample hakarl, with rye bread and brennivin – a distilled schnapps that Icelanders call ‘Black Death’ – at the pungent Bjarnarhofn Shark Museum and Farm, the Snaefellsnes’ biggest hakarl producer.

Celebrity chef Anthony Bourdain panned hakarl as “the single worst, most disgusting and terrible tasting thing” he had ever eaten, and I’d probably concur, though it is fascinating to learn about hakarl’s heritage, and the near six-month fermentation process that makes the toxic Greenland shark meat safe to eat (it’s buried under sand, frozen and thawed, then aired).

Bjarnarhofn’s owner, Gudjon Hildibrandsson, whose family has been in the hakarl business for about 400 years, tells us food was historically scarce during the long Icelandic winters, so preserving and eating shark was a matter of survival for their forebears.

Hakarl’s popularity endures, with Kristjan, our driver, likening this ammoniatinged delicacy to ‘candy’, and some peckish fellow tourists (Americans) displaying an acquired taste for it.

For me, a nicer quintessential Icelandic experience is riding a native horse. You can saddle up across the country, but I do it along the grassy banks of Eyjafjordur, the longest of Iceland’s myriad, mountainflanked fjords on the outskirts of Akureyri, a pleasant port city and the unofficial ‘capital’ of Iceland’s north.

Like all Icelandic equines – some of the world’s oldest and purest bred – my charge, Hera, is a descendant of the horses brought here from Norway by the first Vikings. As I inhale the fresh, sulphur-less air, we clipclop, trot and canter beside the fjord, occasionally breaking into a ‘tolt’. My instructor, Klara Olafursdottir, reveals that the Icelandic horse evolved this extra, four-beat gait to cope with the island’s rough, lava-strewn terrain. It is now so naturally ingrained that even foals perform it. Not for the first time on my Icelandic travels, I’m left marvelling at this unique, magical island.

See more images from this story at luxurytravelmag.com.au

l WHEN TO GO

Come to Iceland between May and October and you’ll have mild temperatures (10-25°C) and lots of daylight (the sun almost never sets in June). From November to March, it’ll be chilly (often below freezing) and dark most of the time, but you might see the Northern Lights. visiticeland.com

l

STAY HERE

Double rooms, with breakfast, at Hotel Framnes in Grundarfjordur are priced from around ISK18,950 (about A$224) per night. The hotel arranges sea-angling trips and harbour cruises. hotelframnes.is

The most luxurious option in this part of the country is the remote Hotel Budir, set on a lava field and overlooking the Snaefellsjokull glacier and a golden sand beach. It’s a grand manor-style property with 28 rooms, all with stunning views over the countryside. The restaurant is exceptional and in the summer the hotel will often throw bonfire parties on the beach. Rooms are priced from ISK25,500 (about A$300) per night. hotelbudir.is

“...its mostly empty roads threading past eerie, crinkly lava fields, giant basalt columns and pastoral fields dotted with cuddly sheep and beautiful Icelandic horses.”

OF THE BEST

LOOKING FOR A UNIQUE LUXURY PROPERTY IN THE ICELANDIC COUNTRYSIDE?

HERE ARE OUR TOP PICKS.

HOTEL RANGA

A classic log cabin-style lodge in southern Iceland, around an hour from Reykjavik, Hotel Ranga makes for a warm and cosy retreat on a windswept plain. It’s decorated with a whole host of quirky pieces from around the world, like surfboards, zebra skins and a 10-foot tall polar bear named Hrammur. Three outdoor hot tubs are filled with geothermal water, overlooking the East Ranga River. Rooms start from around €299 (about A$420) per night. hotelranga.is

ION ADVENTURE HOTEL

This sleek, bold hotel is in the middle of the popular Golden Circle route, jutting sharply out of an icy hillside. Interiors are decorated with driftwood, lava and concrete, and photographs of Icelandic ponies adorn the walls. The private geothermal spa features water pumped straight from the nearby volcanic hot springs. Rooms start from around ISK48,600 (about A$575) per night. ioniceland.is

ULFLJOTSSKALI LODGE

A self-contained lodge in the Golden Circle, Ulfljotsskali is operated by Iceland Luxury Lodges. There are nine bedrooms and seven bathrooms, along with an outdoor hot tub, firepit, sauna, gym and plenty of open plan living space. It’s a great option for families or groups looking for the space and luxury of a private home. The lodge is priced from US$2,200 (about A$2,900) per night. icelandluxurylodges.com

charm

FAMOUS FOR ITS GEOTHERMAL POOLS, REYKJAVIK HAS EMERGED BEYOND THE BLUE TO BECOME A MUST-VISIT NORDIC FOOD-AND-DESIGN DESTINATION, DISCOVERS GEMMA PRICE

s Instagram-worthy travel experiences go, a soak in Iceland’s legendary Blue Lagoon – a geothermal pool surrounded by snow-capped mountains and moss-covered lava fields – is hard to beat. Bill Gates took a midnight swim here. So, too, did Beyoncé and Jay Z, on their recent visit to Iceland to celebrate the rapper’s birthday. And because they rented the entire space for their exclusive use, their photos, unlike mine, probably didn’t include hoards of British, American and Japanese tourists – something other well-heeled travellers will be able to replicate when they come to soak in the silica- and algae-rich, allegedly anti-aging waters later this year.

Building on its 2016 expansion, this summer the Blue Lagoon – named among the 25 Wonders of the World by National Geographic magazine – will launch luxury spa Lava Cove, set deep within the area’s natural lava formations. The 62-room Moss Hotel will follow in autumn, where each room will open onto its own private balcony and mini-cove, etched into the edge of the lagoon.

This will come as welcome news to most travellers. While it’s always been easy to snag a table at the top-notch, on-site Lava restaurant – where dishes such as langoustine soup and shoulder of lamb with artichokes, carrots, dates and thyme are a far cry from the usual poolside fare – the lagoon resort’s six luxury rooms, which offer exclusive access to a private area of the lagoon, are often booked up months in advance. The next-best option is to take the Premium package, which offers a robe and slippers alongside standard access to silica and algae mud masks doled out from counters fringing the lagoon. But even this might be sold out – daily passes are limited and as Iceland’s popularity continues to grow, so do the numbers of visitors bussed in from Reykjavik, 50 minutes away.

Luxury operators, particularly in the capital Reykjavik, are hastily expanding their offering to meet demand. Hospitality stalwarts the Hotel Borg and Icelandair hotels Marina and Natura have been joined by the upscale Canopy by Hilton, where ocean- and volcanic-rock inspired rooms are set across six art-filled houses, and the sleek 101 Hotel, Kim and Kanye’s digs of choice when they’re in town.

Tower Suites, perched on the 20th floor of a new office block, are the most visually arresting accommodations in town: the almost unpronounceable names of each of the eight suites are taken from the mountains they overlook, a jaw-dropping panorama visible from both the bed and tub in each room. The ultra-exclusive Trophy Lodge, nestled in the mountains beneath Langjokull glacier within Iceland’s famed Golden Circle, is owned by the same folks. The property is available by referral only so don’t expect to be able to book online.

Pockets of the city are being given new

life as old buildings are renovated and colonised by art galleries and hip eateries. When a four-storey former herring factory opened as the Marshall Building – home to a honeytoned restaurant, gallery space for emerging artists, and a permanent exhibition-cumstudio space for artist Olafur Eliason – in March, it cemented the burgeoning harbour area’s reputation as the new place to hang out. Icelandic fashion brands Farmer’s Market and Steinnun have their flagship stores here; the after-party for Reykjavik Fashion Festival – the capital’s annual version of fashion week – was held here at Bryggjan Burgghús, Iceland’s first brewpub.

Elma Backman realised the area was on the up and up, which is why she opened her restaurant Matur og Drykkur (“Food and Drink”) at the harbour mouth two years ago. Menus feature traditional Icelandic dishes but you’ll find no fermented shark here: dried, thinly sliced lamb with Iceland’s sweet-and-sour sauce, lightly seared shark and grilled fish skin topped with dollops of pureed carrot are a modern twist on heritage

Reykjavik is becoming known as one of Europe's most design-forward capitals, thanks to buildings like the Harpa concert hall (above) and Hallgrimskirkja Cathedral (below).

TSUGULIEV / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

recipes that chefs take from a 1950s recipe book. “This area is becoming much more of a destination for both visitors and Icelandic people. Before it was unheard of for locals to dine out on anything other than a special occasion,” says Backman.

In fact, it’s fair to say that Iceland’s culinary scene – previously overshadowed by neighbours Sweden, Norway and Denmark – is having a moment.

New Nordic 20-seat restaurant Dill was just awarded its first Michelin star. Set within an old stables, a prix fixe seven-course menu of dishes such as smoked haddock, potato and local yogurt skyr, based on foraged ingredients, is served to a single seating nightly from Wednesday through Saturday.

Grillið at the Radisson Blu is still a go-to for white tablecloths and haute cuisine; at Fiskmarkaðurinn (“Fish Market”), set over two cosy levels of a town house, head chef Hrefna Rósa Sætran selects fresh ingredients bought directly from farmers and fishermen, offering local fare such as robata-grilled minke whale with horse-

radish and redcurrant, soy ginger sauce and smoked puffin breast alongside Japanese hot dishes and sushi.

And paralleling growth in the hospitality scene is the proliferation of boutiques run – and often staffed – by designers, many of whom don’t worry about launching a fancy website or being searchable on Google maps as they benefit from curious, captive foot traffic.

Designer Hildur Yeoman’s new store at Skólavörðustígur 22b stocks her contemporary feminine designs and international brands such as Dutch lingerie label Love Stories; at Orrifin, a jewellery store tucked below street level, goldsmith proprietors Orri Finnbogason and Helga Gvuðrún Friðriksdóttir can often be found crafting their signature scissor pendants and braided metal rings and necklaces in the workshop behind the till.

Ask Iceland’s designers where they get their inspiration, and they’ll direct you to any number of spots where they feel close to “the nature”. The craggy green peaks, waterfalls and bays of the Westfjords are unbelievably beautiful; the glaciers of central Iceland feed huge rivers and rainbow-ringed

Above: Mount Esja dominates Rejkjavik's skyline.

Right: A modern take on traditional Icelandic dishes at Matur og Drykkur restaurant.

BOYLOSO/ SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

waterfalls such as Skógafoss and Goðafoss are impressive natural amphitheatres.

Even if you don’t have time to undertake a thorough expedition in Iceland’s myriad landscapes, you can cheat, like I did, and take a luxury Helo helicopter ride. Route options abound, but I recommend flying over the Golden Circle, where you’ll see old Viking settlements and glacier-capped mountains, to Langjökull, where you can stroll through a man-made tunnel inside the glacier itself.

Another recommendation? Iceland’s visitor numbers only look set to increase, so you better go now, before everybody else does.

Rates at Hotel Borg by Keahotels start from around €440 (about A$622) per night. keahotels.is/en/hotels/hotel-borg

At Icelandair Hotel Reykjavik Marina, rates start from around ISK40,230 (about A$478) per night. icelandairhotels.com/en/hotels/marina

Rates at Icelandair Hotel Reykjavik Natura start from around ISK26,460 (about A$314) per night. icelandairhotels.com/en/hotels/natura

Rates at Canopy by Hilton Reykjavik City Centre start from around ISK36,500 (about A$433) per night. canopy3.hilton.com

Rates start from around ISK42,400 (about A$503) per night at the 101 Hotel. 101hotel.is

At the Tower Suites rates start from around ISK190,000 (about A$2,255) per night. towersuites.is

“It’s fair to say that Iceland’s culinary scene – previously overshadowed by neighbours Sweden, Norway and Denmark –is having a moment.”

l WHERE TO STAY

TOWER SUITES

101 HOTEL

CANOPY BY HILTON

See more images from this story at luxurytravelmag.com.au

Country retreat

LAKE HOUSE, DAYLESFORD

Just 90 minutes from Melbourne, idyllic Daylesford is a small country town in the middle of Victoria’s spa country, known for its natural mineral springs and healing spa retreats. Daylesford is the ideal location for a luxury winter escape, not just for a soothing soak, but also as somewhere for food and wine lovers to relax and enjoy. Think frosty morning walks, afternoons in front of the fire with a good book and a glass of red, before finishing the day with a sumptuous, slow dinner. This is where Lake House comes in.

The property’s two-hatted restaurant is famed for its cutting-edge, seasonal dishes made using local produce and accompanied by an internationally acclaimed wine list with more than 1,000 labels. Nearly everything is made inhouse, from the freshly baked breads to

the charcuterie range – local lamb, grass fed beef and goat’s milk cheese are often delivered in the morning.

Lake House’s 33 rooms and suites sit on six acres of country gardens, brimming with native birdlife (and the odd koala). Keep an eye out for the Kitchen Garden with its edible shoots and flowers or the sculptures and artworks from local artists. Relax with a cocktail in the Argyle Library Bar or have a hit of tennis in the winter sunshine before retiring to the pavilion for refreshments. The Salus Spa sits among the treetops with its airy Scandinavian-inspired spaces and mineral spas overlooking the lake. In winter, treatments are infused with pine and eucalyptus from the hotel gardens.

WHY WINTER? The Annual Producers

Day on Sunday June 25 marks the winter solstice with a celebration of regional cold-weather cuisine. Guests can meet the producers, sample local

wines and see celebrity chefs like Darren Robertson of Three Blue Ducks in action at the Cooking School. Lake House chefs will also be hosting a special hands-on winter masterclass on July 23, creating a delicious three-course lunch. lakehouse.com.au

Beachy breaks

BANNISTERS, MOLLYMOOK

In the coastal New South Wales town of Mollymook, the winters are just as pristine as the summers. A touch over three hours south of Sydney, this quaint beachside town draws visitors with its sweeping two-kilometre beach, seaside golf courses and migrating humpback whales.

Bannisters by the Sea, which began life as a classic beach motel, has been upgraded to a chic 34-room oasis. Its suites and penthouses are particularly luxurious, with ocean views and plush touches like spa baths, fireplaces and wraparound

Above, clockwise from left: Balcony at Lake House; bathroom at Elements of Byron; bedroom at Bannisters Pavilion.

balconies. The two Collette Dinnigan penthouses are standouts with oak floorboards, hand-printed textiles, custom marble bathrooms and classic Australian surf photographs on display.

Just down the road is Bannisters’ sleek second venture, Bannisters Pavilion, which opened in 2015. The style here is more cool and contemporary with charcoal tones, soft-hued timbers, Scandinavian-inspired furnishings and contemporary artwork. The highlight is a cantilevered rooftop pool, which hangs over the entrance.

British cooking icon Rick Stein calls Mollymook his ‘spiritual home’ and opened his eponymous restaurant here in 2009, his only venture outside of the UK. Mollymook’s village atmosphere and excellent seafood remind him of his beloved Cornwall, and he puts a distinctly British spin on fresh kingfish, trevally, snapper and scallops (with plenty of cream and butter).

WHY WINTER? Take advantage of the Ten Degrees Warmer package during the winter months, which includes two nights’ accommodation (at either property), breakfasts, A$100 dining credit and two 60-minute hot stone massages at the Bannisters Day Spa. Prices start from A$810 and the package is available from Sunday to Thursday until August 31. bannisters.com.au

ELEMENTS OF BYRON, BYRON BAY

Byron Bay is one of the country’s favourite beach towns in summer, but as the crowds thin and temperatures begin to ease, there is still plenty to see and do. June to November is whale-watching season – sit and enjoy a beachside breakfast while spotting humpback whales as they migrate down the coast or take in the ocean views from one of Byron’s many hikes and trails, like the Cape Byron walking track.

Just north of Belongil Beach is Elements of Byron, a quiet eco-oasis away from the busy Byron Bay township. Part of Accor Hotels’ MGallery collection, this A$100 million resort opened in 2016. The 50-acre property is dotted with 94 freestanding villas, surrounded by natural ponds, lakes and vegetation. Sustainability is a major focus and the villas are carefully designed to have minimal impact, but don’t be fooled by their external simplicity. All villas have split-level living and sleeping areas, with sleek, modern Australian interiors – think simple, natural wood tones with a splash of colour in artworks or furniture.

At the centre of the property is a large pavilion, architecturally designed to mimic the surrounding sand dunes. Here the reception, restaurant and bar open on to a large infinity lagoon pool, accompanied by cabanas and thatched swinging chairs. Guests can relax with a treatment at the Osprey Spa or join the First Light Club for some yoga while watching the sunrise. Classes run every day throughout winter and are complimentary for hotel guests. WHY WINTER? The Byron Bay Fine Food & Beverage Festival is held on the first Saturday in June and celebrates the finest of Australian food and wine. Try the VIP Foodies Weekend in Byron package, which includes two nights’ accommodation, a ticket to the gala dinner, VIP festival entry and a guided tour of the Bangalow Farmers Market. Prices start at A$950 per person or A$1,250 per couple. Alternatively, the Byron Writers Festival is on in August; book three nights between August 4-6 and receive two three-day passes to the festival (valued at $A285 per person) along with complimentary breakfasts. elementsofbyron.com.au

Below: Sleek interiors at Bannisters Pavilion.

DESTINATION AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND

City stays

SOFITEL MELBOURNE ON COLLINS

It’s fitting for a French hotel brand to live at the ‘Paris End’ of Melbourne’s Collins Street, known for its heritage buildings and ritzy boutiques. Sofitel Melbourne on Collins is right in the city centre, five minutes from Federation Square and a 15-minute walk from the Melbourne Museum and Melbourne Arts Centre.

The building towers over the city and all 363 rooms and suites are located on the 35th floor or above, making for stellar views. The views are even more impressive in the suites, with their corner positions and floor-to-ceiling windows. The style is simple, understated luxury with colour schemes of plush creams and greys, along with luxe touches like French toiletries and Bose sound systems.

Head to the hotel lounge for an elegant high tea late on a chilly winter afternoon, or enjoy bar snacks and a glass of champagne at the Atrium Bar. Sofitel’s fine-dining restaurant, No35, also offers a pre-theatre menu.

WHY WINTER? Now in its 14th year, the Melbourne Winter Masterpieces series brings major international exhibitions exclusively to the city for 100 days. This year, Van Gogh and the Seasons will be showing at the National Gallery of Victoria with more than 60 works, most of which have never been seen in Australia. Take advantage of the Sofitel’s So Cultural package, which includes overnight accommodation, breakfast with a view at restaurant No35 and two tickets to the latest Melbourne exhibition, including Van Gogh. Prices start from A$335 per night. sofitel-melbourne.com.au

SOFITEL SYDNEY WENTWORTH

It’s always a good time for a break in Sydney, but there’s something extra special about winter. The harbour city sparkles with crisp, cool days and there’s a packed calendar of sporting and cultural events, including Vivid, the world’s most spectacular light show.

Venture into the heart of the city to find the Sofitel Sydney Wentworth,

a heritage-listed property that was Sydney's first five-star hotel. Now more than 50 years old, the Sofitel has always been the local address for high-profile guests like the Queen, Prince Charles and Princess Diana. The unique horseshoe shape of the building is reflected in the interior design, including the curvilinear marble bathrooms, which were the first of their kind in the Southern Hemisphere. The more than 400 rooms and suites follow the signature Sofitel style, with plush furnishings, soft lighting and opulent touches of glass and gold. Palatial floral displays fill the hotel from the lobby to the 15th floor.

The hotel’s central location is ideal for sightseeing, with the iconic Harbour Bridge, Circular Quay, Opera House and Botanical Gardens located within minutes. When the day’s exploring is done, come back to the hotel’s 1960s-inspired Soiree Bar for cocktails and champagne accompanied by a complimentary selection of canapes.

Above: Soiree bar at Sofitel Sydney Wentworth.

Right: Breakfast at No35, Sofitel Melbourne on Collins.

The building towers over the city and all 363 rooms and suites are located on the 35th floor or above, making for stellar views.

WHY WINTER? The Sofitel Sydney Wentworth has a front-row seat for Vivid. Stay in the heart of the action with their Vivid Sydney Experience package, including buffet breakfast for two, and Vivid cocktails and canapes served in the Soiree Bar. Prices start at A$325 per night, based on classic room rates. Offer is available from May 26 to June 2017. sofitelsydney.com.au

Across the pond

AZUR LODGE, QUEENSTOWN

Nestled on New Zealand’s South Island beside the pristine waters of Lake Wakatipu, Queenstown is one of the nation’s top holiday destinations. And winter is one of the best times to visit, thanks to clear, crisp sunny days and sparkling snow-capped mountains. Whether visiting the world-class ski resorts, trying out the many adventure sports on offer, or simply relaxing, this resort town makes an ideal winter getaway.

Just west of Queenstown is Azur Lodge, a luxurious private retreat with nine identical villas set around a central lodge. Perched on a steep hillside, Azur offers spectacular views of the lake and the surrounding mountain ranges, including the Remarkables, and Cecil and Walter peaks.

The freestanding stone-and-beechwood villas are designed by award-winning Queenstown architect John Blair and every angle of the contemporary, open-plan-living interior looks out to the lake through floorto-ceiling windows, while glass doors open on to a private sundeck. The best views, however, are from the bathtub, which is set into a bay window to mimic the feeling of bathing outdoors. Luxurious touches such as a gas fireplace, underfloor heating and 300-count Egyptian cotton sheets make the lodgings even cosier. Azur doesn’t have a restaurant, however evening drinks and canapes in the main lodge followed by a complimentary transfer into town to dine at one of Queenstown’s many fantastic restaurants is an exceptional solution.

WHY WINTER? Queenstown is home to two of the South Island’s most popular ski resorts, Coronet Peak and the Remarkables, and is the epicentre of myriad adrenaline sports including bungee jumping, paragliding and heli-skiing (all of which continue to run throughout the winter

This page, from top: Great Room at The Marlborough Lodge; aerial view of The Marlborough Lodge. Opposite: A villa with a view at Azur Lodge.

months). Try landing on a glacier via helicopter at Milford Sound, or unwinding in an open-air onsen hot pool, overlooking the snow-covered Shotover Canyon.

Azur Lodge’s Snow Deal offers a 15 per cent discount for a minimum stay of five nights between June 1 and September 30. Starting at NZ$1,050 (about A$962) per night, the offer includes breakfast, return airport transfers, a bottle of New Zealand wine on arrival, and daily afternoon refreshments, pre-dinner drinks and canapes. Luxury Travel readers receive an additional NZ$80 (about A$73) credit when booking via phone or email. Simply quote “Lux Travel”. azur.co.nz

THE MARLBOROUGH LODGE, MARLBOROUGH

Located at the top of the South Island, Marlborough is New Zealand’s biggest winegrowing region with almost 60,000 acres of vineyards. Famous for its endless sunshine, stunning waterways and sauvignon blanc, the region is ideal to visit any time of year.

At the heart of the region is The Marlborough Lodge, an historic Victorian house that sits on 16 acres of vineyard and parkland. Originally built in nearby Blenheim as a convent in 1901, the majestic two-storey building was relocated in five pieces to its current location, before being extensively refurbished and reopened in late 2016 as a luxury bed and breakfast. Victorian craftsmanship and local timbers can be found throughout the house, while the 10 suites are simple but elegant, blending Victorian-style curtains and plush armchairs with spacious, contemporary bathrooms. Join the head gardener on a tour through the estate, before sitting by the outdoor fireplace with pre-dinner drinks and canapes. A three-course dinner is served in the private dining room, with many ingredients sourced from the vegetable garden. Matched wines come from throughout the region, accompanied by wine produced on the property.

WHY WINTER? While temperatures drop, blue-sky sunny days and calm weather abound. The Marlborough Lodge is the perfect base from which to explore the area, whether cycling around the cellar doors and wineries, hiking one of the many walking trails or sailing the stunning Marlborough Sounds. The lodge offers a Winter Warmer Escape package that includes two nights’ accommodation for two guests along with breakfast, pre-dinner drinks, canapes and a fivecourse dinner each evening. Guests will also be taken on a half-day private wine tasting and a half-day seafood cruise, go foraging with chef Jason at the lodge, and take a guided tour of the gardens and vineyards. Rates for the package start from NZ$3,175 (about A$2,932) for a Lodge Room. The offer is valid until September 30 2017.

themarlboroughlodge.co.nz

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A city reborn

ONCE WIDELY CONSIDERED DIRTY AND DANGEROUS, MEXICO CITY HAS EVOLVED INTO A WORLD-CLASS LUXURY DESTINATION, AS LEAH M c LENNAN DISCOVERS.

exico City is a metropolis that has it all. Bursting with inviting neighbourhoods, revamped green spaces and clean air, it’s no wonder

The New York Times last year named it as the number one place to go to in the world.

Originally built on an island of Lake Texcoco by the Aztecs in 1325, this megalopolis has so much heart. Remarkably, each neighbourhood feels like a village, despite being part of the sprawl – the Greater Mexico City is home to about 22 million people.

No longer fitting the description of a “crime-ridden urban jungle”, the Mexican capital is now considered one of the safest cities in Latin America. Of course, there are areas where tourists should not venture, but it’s not the organised crime hub that some may think.

And international visitor numbers prove the point. Tourism in Mexico is booming, up nine per cent in 2016 to a record-breaking 35 million tourists.

Hoteliers, chefs, fashion designers, architects and artists have redefined Mexico City’s image. Now a world-class luxury getaway, it boasts some of the world’s most innovative cuisine and is home to 10 of the 50 best restaurants in Latin America.

While the city has changed in so many ways, some things remain the same. Life is still lived outside, on streets lined with taco stands, old-school cantinas and colourful markets. Throw artsy hotels, funky bars and designer shops into the mix, and the atmosphere in this city is as potent as a chilli margarita.

Most of the sites of interest to tourists are located in the buzzing city centre. Explore Templo Mayor, a huge Aztec temple complex that was excavated in the 1970s. Nearby, admire Diego Rivera’s murals at the National Palace.

Also unmissable are: Chapultepec Castle, the former imperial castle with glorious views of the city; the National Museum of Anthropology, which is home to the Aztec calendar stone Piedra del Sol; and the splendid white-marble Palacio de Bellas Artes (Palace of Fine Arts).

A visit to artist Frida Kahlo’s house, La Casa Azul (the Blue House), a 30-minute drive south of the city centre in Coyoacan, is an absolute highlight of any trip to Mexico City. Around the corner, Leon Trotsky’s home remains much as it was on August 21, 1940, when he was assassinated.

About 20 minutes’ drive from here is Xochimilco, which is unlike anywhere else in the city. Its floating gardens are laced with canals that are best explored by gondola.

When the sun goes down, catch an opera, ballet or symphony back in the city centre at Palacio de Bellas Artes. Tickets

are available on the day at the venue or through Ticketmaster.

The clubs (known as “antros”) don’t start heating up until midnight and close in the early hours. Two of Mexico City’s most exclusive nightclubs can be found in the posh Polanco district, a 15-minute drive from the city centre. Area Bar and Terrace at Habita Hotel (hotelhabita.com; Av. Presidente Masaryk 210) is perhaps the sexiest bar in all of Mexico and at nearby Dinsmoor (Av. Horacio 400) everyone looks like a model.

Foot-tapping bars in the city centre include El Zinco (zincojazz.com; Calle Motolinia 20), one of the greatest underground jazz clubs in the world; Salon Los Angeles (salonlosangeles.mx; Calle de Lerdo 206), a famous old dance hall; and raucous disco Barba Azul (Calle Gutierrez Najera 291).

High-end travel company Journey Mexico (journeymexico.com) specialises in crafting unique itineraries featuring the finest bars, restaurants and accommodation in Mexico City. Abercrombie & Kent (abercrombiekent.com.au) has private journeys in Mexico from five to 14 days, with extensions available.

LA CASA AZUL

PALACIO DE BELLAS ARTES

FELIX LIPOV/ SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Eat & drink

Breakfast is generally a light meal, as is dinner. The most important meal of the day is lunch, between 2 and 4pm.

The leafy Polanco district is home to three restaurants that have been included on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list: Biko (biko.com. mx; Av. Presidente Masaryk 407), a flavoursome collision between Spain and Mexico; Quintonil (quintonil.com; Newton 55), featuring modern Mexican cooking with an emphasis on greens; and Pujol (pujol.com.mx; Tennyson 133), named by Wall Street Journal as the best in Mexico City.

At Dulce Patria (dulcepatriamexico.com; Anatole France 100), also in compact Polanco, critically acclaimed chef Martha Ortiz channels the creative spirit of Kahlo with an avant-garde interior and colourful Mexican food. Can there be a more exciting place to eat?

In prime location in the city centre, traditional Mexican dishes get a modern update at Barrio Alameda (Calle Dr Mora 9), housed in a stunning art deco building (chic lodging Chaya B&B Boutique is on the top floor).

The Mercado de San Juan (San Juan Mar ket), also in the city centre, draws gourmets

with its mind-boggling maze of stalls selling everything from simple smoked ham rolls to worm quesadillas.

When in Roma, one of Mexico City’s most fashionable neighbourhoods, don’t miss Fonda Fina (fondafina.com.mx; Medellin 79), serving regional Mexican dishes with modern nuances in a homey atmosphere.

After dinner make a beeline for Roma’s Licoreria Limantour (limantour.tv; Av. Alvaro Obregon 106), heralded as the top cocktail bar in Latin America. Majer Tejado, the first woman to win the title of best mixologist in Mexico, recommends the bar’s classic margarita al pastor; silver tequila with bright cilantro, pineapple and smoky chilli.

Shop

Polanco boasts some seriously upscale shopping. Said to be the most expensive shopping street in Latin America, Presidente Masaryk Avenue is lined with designer brands such as Louis Vuitton and Dolce & Gabbana. Find unique items at Onora Casa (Mexican textiles and handmade objects) and Yakampot (mixes traditional with modern designs to create garments like the rebozo scarf).

Vintage treasure hunters should head to La Lagunilla Market, located about 10 blocks north of the city centre’s main plaza in La Lagunilla district. It has everything from rare books to old Mexican ceramics (from 9am Sundays).

QUINTONIL RESTAURANT ONORA CASA

BARRIO ALAMEDA

LEAH MCLENNAN

The height of chic, Las Alcobas (lasalcobas.com; Av. Presidente Masaryk 390), which translates as “the bedrooms”, is on Polcanco’s President Masaryk Avenue, the most exclusive street in Mexico City.

A Starwood Luxury Collection Hotel, it comprises 35 two- and three-bedroom suites and penthouses with custom-made rosewood furniture, lavish bathrooms stocked with handcrafted soaps and a mostly complimentary minibar featuring tamarind chews, chilli-dusted dried mango and anejo (aged) tequilas. The farm-to-table restaurant and indigenous treatments at Aurora Spa make it difficult to check out.

transport

Uber is a good way to get around. It’s especially useful if you don’t speak Spanish, as you can type in your exact destination on the phone. Getting around Mexico City by authorised taxis is easy. For safety reasons, never hail a cab on the street. Instead, take a taxi from the sitio (taxi stop) or have your hotel or restaurant call you a sitio taxi.

top tips

Don’t judge a book by its cover when it comes to the best coffee in the city centre. The food truck in Lic. Verdad (the street on your left as you leave Templo Mayor) serves a top-notch brew. Flat whites are smooth with good crema and not bitter. Could this be the best coffee in Mexico City?

LIMANTOUR POLANCO

LAS ALCOBAS

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the changing fac� of

EXPEDITION CRUISING

EXPEDITION CRUISING HAS MODEST ROOTS BUT, AS DAVID M c GONIGAL EXPLAINS, THE MODERN EXPERIENCE IS AN UNFORGETTABLE COMBINATION OF ADVENTURE AND LUXURY.

SILVERSEA'S SILVER

The words of 19th century travel writer Robert Louis Stevenson certainly have a romantic edge, but he was riding a donkey. When it comes to expedition cruising, the journey is as hopeful as it is inspiring, and arriving in wonderful places aboard remarkable ships is all part of the service.

Until 1966 expedition cruising didn’t really exist. In that year Lars-Eric Lindblad led the first tourist trip to Antarctica on an Argentinean naval vessel. In 1969 he launched his own vessel, the Lindblad Explorer, to explore the world’s wildest places.

However, luxury on board wasn’t a vital part of the concept. The real luxury was that you were able to visit those remote parts of the world at all. While that’s still partly true, there’s a new era in expedition cruising that combines comfort and experience.

Expedition cruises visit many parts of the world including the Galapagos, the Amazon, Papua New Guinea and Australia’s Kimberley coast. But the core area remains the polar regions.

Until 1990 the number of tourists to Antarctica

was tiny – a mere few hundred each year. Then the Berlin Wall came down and the Soviet empire collapsed. The ice-strengthened ships of the Russian fleet found themselves underfunded and many were leased to take tourists (mainly from the United States but also Australia, the UK, Germany and Canada) to the poles, helping fund their scientific programs for the rest of the year. It was the beginning of the polar travel boom.

Today the second stage of expedition cruising has arrived. As many of the Russian expedition ships reached the end of their working lives, or came up against new clean-fuel requirements, they were retired. Meanwhile, travellers were demanding more comfort and expeditions with a butler service became a reality.

A popular destination of choice is the Galapagos Islands (and rightfully so), yet many of the regular expedition cruise operators don’t travel there. That’s because the Ecuadorean authorities restrict Galapagos cruising to local vessels. Standards vary widely, so if you’re looking for luxury, go with one of the established international cruise lines with vessels based in the region.

This page from top: Hapag-Lloyd's MS Hanseatic in Trollfjord, Norway; the spa on Scenic Eclipse. Opposite page: True North's Kimberley expedition.

To travel hopefully is a better thing than to arrive.

The expedition crew

QUARK EXPEDITIONS

One vessel still reflects the luxury of simply being able to do it: Quark’s nuclear-powered Russian icebreaker, 50 Years of Victory, can take you through the ice to the North Pole. The ship is comfortable, not luxurious, and the 14-day voyage costs from US$40,000 (about A$53,333) for a twin cabin up to US$60,000 (about A$80,000) for a suite. quarkexpeditions.com/au

HAPAG-LLOYD CRUISES

Among the most highly rated cruise ships in the world, according to the authoritative Berlitz Cruising and Cruise Ships guide, is the Hanseatic, one of the two expedition ships of Hapag-Lloyd. The line’s older expedition ship, the Bremen, is rated four-stars.

Hapag-Lloyd is a distinctly German operation, from the quality of its finish to the attention to detail. Also distinctly German is the organisation of local cruisers, meaning the ships are often booked out more than a year in advance. Hapag-Lloyd expedition ships operate mainly in the Arctic and Antarctic with some cruises in more temperate zones. hl-cruises.com

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC EXPEDITIONS

Many Australians discovered expedition cruising aboard Orion, our own luxury cruise ship, which spent much of its operation around Western Australia’s Kimberley Coast and into exotic Papua New Guinea. The vessel is now the National Geographic Orion and forms part of the Lindblad Expeditions/National Geographic partnership.

Others in the National Geographic fleet are National Geographic Explorer, National Geographic Sea Bird and National Geographic Sea Lion. Together, this fleet covers the polar regions, Patagonia, South America, Europe, the UK, Alaska, Central America and beyond. National Geographic Endeavour II and National Geographic Islander operate in the Galapagos Islands. Two new vessels are being constructed: National Geographic Quest (expected to be in Alaska by mid-year) and National Geographic Venture (due to launch in 2018). These vessels all boast the unique selling point of having National Geographic photographers on board, which means plenty of expert advice. au.expeditions.com

TRUE NORTH ADVENTURE CRUISES

Australia’s Kimberley does have an excellent vessel with a wealth of experience in these waters. True North, the only vessel in the True North Adventure Cruises (formerly North Star Cruises) fleet, is best known for carrying its own helicopter on board, opening up even more exploring options. Besides the Kimberley, True North also offers regular voyages in West Papua and Papua New Guinea as well as occasional cruises around the Australian coastline. truenorth.com.au

SILVERSEA

Silversea has three expedition vessels and a fourth on the way. As her name implies, the 100-passenger Silver Galapagos offers a series of seven-day voyages around the Galapagos Islands. The ice-strengthened 130-passenger Silver Explorer is a familiar sight in Antarctica and the Arctic, but turns up in Easter Island and Tahiti too. The 120-passenger Silver Discoverer includes the Kimberley in its largely Pacific schedule that extends from Kamchatka to Guadalcanal.

In November the extensively refurbished and ice-strengthened Silver Cloud will be heading to Antarctica for the season with just 200 passengers (though it will carry up to 260 elsewhere). Then, after some voyages in Europe, she will be in Spitsbergen before returning to Antarctica. silversea.com

PONANT

French line Ponant is certainly visible in the Australian market these days. Indeed, Ponant can be found everywhere from the poles to Borneo and the Amazon. With four expedition ships, each accommodating about 260 guests, and characteristic French flair, Ponant is rapidly gaining a strong Australian following. Ponant ships can be found in Alaska and Russia as well as the Arctic, Antarctica, throughout the Pacific and in Latin America. au.ponant.com

See more images from this story at luxurytravelmag.com.au

This page from top: The view from onboard a Ponant expedition ship; Crystal Endeavor polar expedition. Opposite page: Penguin spotting on a National Geographic expedition.

On the horizon

The trend in expedition cruising has shifted from providing acceptable accommodation in exotic places to excellent service everywhere. Stand by for what’s next.

At least 12 new expedition ship builds have been ordered in the past 12 months. Two of these have been for Hapag-Lloyd, three for Crystal Cruises and four for Ponant.

Last year, Crystal Cruises announced it will launch “the world’s first purpose-built polar class megayacht” to sail in August 2018. This will be the 200-passenger Crystal Endeavor and it will be as functional as it is beautiful.

The Crystal Endeavor will offer extreme adventures by air, sea and land with a complete range of toys not commonly found on today’s megayachts, including two helicopters and two landing pads for flightseeing expeditions, as well

as two seven-person submarines, eight electric amphibious zodiacs, jet skis, wave runners, kayaks, paddleboards, snorkelling and scuba equipment, recompression chamber, dive support tender and a multi-person ATV. The Crystal Endeavor will also be equipped with SEABOBs – the world’s most technically advanced and powerful underwater scooter – that allow you to move gracefully underwater. crystalcruises.com

While Scenic is mainly known for luxury river cruises, it will be launching the very futuristic Scenic Eclipse in August 2018. It will operate at both ends of the earth as well as the Mediterranean and the Americas. A retractable glass roof and helicopters will ensure the 228 guests (restricted to 200 in Antarctica) make the most of their surrounds. scenic.com.au

The Crystal Endeavor will also be equipped with SEABOBs – the world’s most technically advanced and powerful underwater scooter – that allow you to move gracefully underwater.

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ENCORE, ENCORE

SEABOURN’S NEWEST VESSEL IS ALSO ITS BIGGEST, AND A LOCAL VOYAGE LEFT LUCY JONES READY FOR MORE.

There are few sounds more appealing than the popping of a champagne cork, which made my week on board Seabourn Encore a particularly delightful experience. I lost count of the popping corks early, but barely 20 minutes would go by without the celebratory sound. This is indicative of the ship; one on which you’d feel practically naked walking the decks without a glass of chilled Nicolas Feuillatte in hand.

I’ve joined Seabourn’s brand new vessel in Sydney, where she is just finishing up her first season. It’s quite a coup for Australia to be the first port of call for a luxury launch, which tend to head straight for the more traditional markets of the Mediterranean or Caribbean. Right now, Encore is arguably the most luxurious ship in the world and she looks suitably striking parked right by the Sydney Opera House.

The ship is largely flawless. Bright, airy and spacious; so new it still smells of paint and floor polish as you step

aboard. Famed hotel and restaurant designer Adam D Tihany is behind the aesthetic and he’s worked hard to make it feel more like a private yacht than a commercial cruise ship. It’s sleek and sexy with sculptural staircases and chandeliers plus a remarkable on-board art collection.

There are just 300 Verandah Suites, starting at a very roomy 34 square metres and ranging up to the huge Wintergarden Suites that, at more than 100 square metres, are about the same size as my two-bedroom apartment (though considerably more stylish). TVs are loaded with a great selection of movies and series (perfect for binge watching). The bathroom is enormous with a separate shower and tub, double vanity and plenty of storage space.

Encore’s hub is Seabourn Square, a hybrid lobby/living room/library as well as the ship’s one really good coffee bar. It takes the place of the traditional customer service desk and is a much more user-friendly space to ask questions or

book shore excursions. The main swimming pool is pleasantly deep and there are rarely more than a handful of swimmers. I’m assured there are many more deckchairs than passengers, so it’s always easy to find a place to recline. I come to favour the comfy double day beds, well-stocked with cushions, for my daily catnap.

Tihany has gone a bit wild in the spa, a gleaming futuristic space that looks like the flight deck of a spaceship. Seabourn has partnered with wellness guru Dr Andrew Weil to create a holistic program overseen by a Wellness Guide, the first of its kind at sea. There are daily yoga and meditation classes and, while I have good intentions, somehow I don’t make it for any of the 7am starts. There’s the usual menu of treatments plus a few interesting extras, such as a sound bath with humming Tibetan crystal bowls (see page 175 for more).

Then there’s the food. Seabourn has partnered with American celebrity chef Thomas Keller to launch The Grill, its new signature restaurant. The dining room is dark and club-

by, the menu a modern twist on classic 1970s steakhouse fare. In keeping with the theme, I order crab cakes, lobster thermidor and an enormous ice cream sundae prepared right at the table.

Encore is also home to the line’s first standalone sushi restaurant (called, simply, Sushi) that’s so good I eat there two nights in a row. There’s a different themed dinner held each night in The Colonnade (which operates as the buffet during the day) and it’s excellent the night I attend. As with all Seabourn ships, all dining and drinks (excluding some top shelf stuff) is included in the fare.

Our first port of call, Mooloolaba, is cancelled due to rough weather. And I can’t say I’m disappointed. The real story here is the ship and I soon feel I would be happy enough never to set foot on dry land again. Cruising through the Whitsundays, we drop anchor right beside Hamilton Island. Surrounded by the curved green backs of the islands and with seemingly doll-sized sailboats bobbing about beside us, it must be the prettiest cruise port in the

This page: The private deck of a Signature Suite. Opposite page from top: Seabourn Square, the heart of the ship; solarium and hot tub of a Wintergarden Suite; The Spa at Seabourn.

I soon feel I would be happy enough never to set foot on dry land again.

country. I jump aboard a Zodiac and zip out to Sawmill Bay for one of the line’s custom Ventures by Seabourn shore excursions. The program is new to Australia and focuses on active excursions led by members of the expert expedition team; a good way to burn off a few of those champagne calories.

The highlight of the voyage is the Champagne and Caviar evening, one of Seabourn’s signature events. The ship’s singers perform opera on the main deck as we sail away from Hamilton Island at sunset, and it’s exceptional. These are genuine word-class performers, far above the usual ‘cruise ship cabaret’ fare, and even an operatic philistine like me is moved. The ship also hosts a new show from Broadway legend Tim Rice, featuring songs from shows such as The Lion King, Aladdin, Joseph and the Amazing Technicolour Dreamcoat, and Evita. Sadly, it’s not performed during my leg of the journey and I don’t get the opportunity to wow everyone with my rendition of ‘Hakuna Matata’.

I spend one day in the private confines of The Retreat, an exclusive adults-only area on deck 12 that’s making its debut on Encore. It is Tihany’s favourite space and the man has good taste. Fifteen cabanas circle a large central hot tub, each with sun loungers, a TV, mini bar and couch. The house pour is Bollinger, which, it turns out, is the ideal breakfast champagne (if you like that sort of thing). A day at The Retreat will set you back an additional US$249 (about A$330) on port days or US$349 (about A$462) on sea days, which is potentially why it remains largely empty during the voyage. It’s a shame, because it really is divine, but Seabourn might need to rethink how it operates.

This isn’t the only problem that crops up. If the outdoor section is closed, there isn’t enough seating in The Colonnade buffet (unless you like to sit with strangers, which I do not). Cabin lighting is unnecessarily complicated. One night, after at least 20 minutes of frustrated flickering, I throw a towel over a lamp that remains stubbornly inextinguishable.

There are also few hiccups in the famed Seabourn service that don’t go unnoticed.

I spoke with other passengers who had sailed with the line for close to 100 days and they felt it

wasn’t up to the usual standard. Service around the pool was often slow (or non-existent) and a particularly surly waiter left a bad taste in my mouth. But the service improved considerably as the voyage continued. With just a handful of sailings under its bow, Encore is a new ship and is considerably larger than others in the Seabourn fleet, so I’m happy to chalk these up to teething issues. Especially considering the experiences at the other end of the spectrum.

One night, as I’m walking back to my cabin, a man calls me over to the railing. A pod of dolphins are frolicking in the bow waves, their slick silver bodies visible just under the surface. They race along beside the ship for a magical half hour, leaping over the breaking waves and tumbling underneath the foam. It seems everyone wants a piece of Encore

Seabourn Encore will return to Australian waters in December, sailing five 16-day voyages in the region. Prices start from A$10,299 per person, twin share for a Verandah Suite. seabourn.com

l NEW JOURNEYS TAUCK & THE BBC CRUISING TO PLANET EARTH

If you dream of having your travels narrated by the dulcet tones of David Attenborough, Tauck’s new series of smallship cruises could be just the ticket. The line is partnering with the BBC to create a series of journeys themed around the smash hit documentary series Planet Earth II. Destinations include the Galapagos Islands, Antarctica, Costa Rica, South Africa, Kenya, Nepal, Botswana, India and Panama, with voyages starting in 2018. Guests will even get to try out some of the technology used by the documentary filmmakers, like long-range microphones, thermal imaging cameras, night vision goggles and self-activating cameras. tauck.com/bbcearth

FIRST PONANT EXPLORER LAUNCHING SOON

Construction is underway for the first ships in French expedition line Ponant’s new Explorers series. Le Laperouse and Le Champlain, named after the famed explorers, are being built in the Fincantieri yard in Norway and will join the fleet in mid-2018. The next generation vessels will carry 184 passengers and be certified as Ice Class, enabling them to sail to the polar regions and drop anchor at the most inaccessible sites. Both will feature the line’s exclusive underwater multi-sensorial lounge, a first in the industry. en.ponant.com

l NEW RIVER

SHIP MORE JOIE FOR UNIWORLD

Uniworld Boutique River Cruise Collection’s newest super ship, SS Joie de Vivre, has set sail on its maiden voyage in France. At 125 metres, the ship is slightly smaller than others in the Uniworld fleet and will carry just 128 guests. The ship can dock in the heart of Paris, in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower, when sailing on itineraries through northern France. The bright, colourful décor is inspired by 20th century Parisian style from the roaring 20s through to the swinging 60s. uniworld.com

l REFURBISHMENT THE MUSE STRIKES SILVERSEA

The full Silversea fleet is set to undergo a A$170 million revamp, following on from the successful launch of the flagship Silver Muse in April. Described by the brand as a ‘muse-isation’, all Silversea's vessels will be upgraded to reach the new design standards set by Muse. The first ship to be revamped will be Silver Explorer, which has just gone into drydock. Executive chairman Manfredi Lefebvre d’Ovidio also announced the line has an option to build three sister ships for Muse, which would potentially be launched from 2020. silversea.com

Somewhere onlyknowwe

Behold the ebb and flow of the Indian Ocean in luxurious privacy. Savour the sweet, sour and spicy tangs of the tropics in cuisine made to order. Share secrets on strolls along a sun-kissed beach and relish the sensual pleasures of bespoke spa rituals. Saman Villas is your paradise, found.

SOFT ADVENTURE CRUISE AROUND

ARANUI CRUISES IS RENOWNED FOR ITS UNIQUE VOYAGES TO SOME OF THE MOST REMOTE ISLANDS IN THE WORLD, THE MARQUESAS ARCHIPELAGO

Journey to islands where the interiors are often largely unexplored, matted by dense jungle and volcanic outcrops. Follow the paths of French impressionist, Paul Gauguin and Moby Dick author Herman Melville on a 14-day cruise as it links the remote Marquesas and Tuamotus with Tahiti and provides one of the few remaining authentic cargo ship experiences.

Aranui 5 offers a window into the lives of local villages as it delivers essential goods during the 3,000 km journey from Papeete. Be part of this exceptional adventure.

Highlights:

14 day cruise with all meals (French and Polynesian), onshore picnics and BBQs included

Cruise to nine islands with 17 ports of call

Maximum 254 passengers

All exterior cabins, over half with balconies

Guided excursions to archeological and cultural sites, ancient tikis, local villages and historic churches

Local multi-lingual tour guides (English, French and German)

Visit Paul Gauguin and Jacques Brel museums (entrance fee additional)

4WD sightseeing tour and hikes

Meet local artisans; visit handicraft studios and a working pearl farm

Traditional dance performances

Optional activities: fishing, spa treatments, horse riding, swimming with sharks & rays.

For further information

e: info@aranuicruises.com.au

p: (+61) 3 9449 3778

www.aranuicruises.com.au

Right on track

FOUR NEW LUXURY TRAINS

WITH FOUR FIRST CLASS TRAINS SET TO HIT THE RAILS IN THE COMING MONTHS IT SEEMS LUXURY SLOW-TRAVEL IS CATCHING UP. GRACE SMITH AND KATIE MILTON LET YOU IN ON WHAT TO EXPECT ON-BOARD.

THE PRESIDENTIAL TRAIN

Portugal’s iconic Presidential Train returns to the tracks in 2017 following its acclaimed 2016 debut. After a century spent transporting Portuguese royalty and politicians across the country, the Presidential Train was placed on display in the National Railway Museum where its old world glamour caught the eye of entrepreneur Goncalo Castel-Branco. Inspired to give the luxury locomotive a new lease on life, Castel-Branco relaunched the train to run daylong journeys and one-off culinary experiences. In May the train will host a completely redesigned experience – a culinary and viticultural exploration of the scenic Douro Valley. The nine-hour journey departs the 100 year old Sao Bento station in Porto and will transport guests to the private Quinta do Vesuvio property for a tour and port wine tasting with a gourmet lunch prepared by a Michelin-star chef on board.

thepresidentialtrain.com

SHIKI SHIMA

Just 34 passengers at a time will experience the luxury of Japan’s exclusive Shiki Shima train. Created by the award-winning Ferrari designer Ken Kiyoyuki Okuyama, Shiki Shima will launch in May with a handful of one- to four-day itineraries in northern Japan.  The train’s 10 cars comprise 17 spacious double-storey suites,

each with their own bathroom. There is also a shared lounge and gourmet dining room, plus two glass-walled observatory cars. Bookings are by application only and are now open for departures in 2017 and 2018.

www.jreast.co.jp/shiki-shima

BELMOND ANDEAN EXPLORER

Travellers will be able to embark on overnight journeys through the Peruvian countryside when South America’s first luxury sleeper train launches in May. Sister to the Belmond Hiram Bingham, the Belmond Andean Explorer will host up to 48 passengers on a range of one- and two-night itineraries throughout Cusco, Puno and Arequipa with exclusive off-train itineraries. Wake to the sunrise across Lake Titicaca, explore the ancient Sumbay Caves and, back on board, sample a seasonal Peruvian menu put together by Diego Muñoz and chefs of Belmond Hotel Monasterio. belmond.com/belmond-andean-explorer

TWILIGHT EXPRESS MIZUKAZE

With tickets only available for purchase in Japan and no English-language service on board, the Twilight Express Mizukaze is not for the amateur traveller. Carrying on the tradition of the original Twilight Express that was discontinued in 2015, the 10-coach sleeper train will offer a selection of overnight routes through western Japan when it launches in June, vis -

iting Kyoto, Osaka and the Sea of Japan, with cultural off-train activities. On board, guests can take in the passing landscape from the observation car and enjoy Japanese cuisine planned by food columnist Takeshi Kadokami and prepared by top chefs Yoshihiro Murata and Hajime Yoneda. twilightexpress-mizukaze.jp

HIGH FLYER

THE LATEST AIRLINE NEWS, FLIGHT & LOUNGE REVIEWS FOR THE DISCERNING TRAVELLER

Qatar Airways has unveiled the world’s first business class double bed, allowing those travelling together to comfortably share their space. The ingenious seats, dubbed Qsuites, aim to give passengers freedom to customise their space by using adjustable privacy panels with movable TV monitors. Couples or par-

ents and children travelling side-by-side can remove the middle panel and transform their adjacent seats into a shared double bed, while the side panels provide privacy from the rest of the cabin. Larger groups of friends or family can use the panels to create their own private ‘party of four’ suite with a central dining table,

allowing them to socialise and dine together during their trip. Alternatively, solo travellers have the option to remain in a private oneperson suite.

The Qsuites will be gradually introduced on the existing Qatar Airways fleet from June. qatarairways.com

Virgin Australia has partnered with Barossa Valley winery St Hallett to create a custom blend specifically for in-flight consumption. The wine, named The Duo, blends grapes from both the Barossa and Eden valleys to produce the perfect balance of acidity and texture for the high altitude and dry air of the cabin. Available now, the wine is served exclusively in Virgin Australia business class cabins and in Virgin Australia lounges. virginaustralia.com

The fight is on for the title of Australia’s favourite airline, with Virgin Australia announcing a trial of an on-board WiFi service just days after Qantas. While neither carrier is charging for the service during the trial period, only Qantas has confirmed that the WiFi will continue to be free once it is rolled out nation-wide.

Air Tahiti Nui is set to introduce high speed in flight WiFi from 2018, when the airline takes delivery of its first Boeing 787-9 Dreamliner.

» DRINKS CUSTOM WINE BLEND

» NEW SEATS QATAR UNVEILS BUSINESS CLASS DOUBLE BED

WIFI WARS

» NEW AMENITY KITS AUSSIE ARTWORKS AT ALTITUDE

Qantas has unveiled its new business class amenity kits featuring 16 unique Australian designs. The kits are the result of a collaboration with some of Australia’s leading artists representing a range of styles including pop

culture, fine art, abstract landscape, indigenous art and textile design. With names such as Fairy Bread, 7000 Ironbarks and Maaate, the designs aim to reflect contemporary Australia. One kit even features a photograph of Hamilton Island

taken by digital influencer Nicole

The new range is now available for business class passengers on international flights, with two new designs launching every few months.

» SPECIAL MENU ADVANCE AUSTRALIA FARE

Singapore Airlines has launched a special menu to celebrate 50 years of flying to Australia. The menu acknowledges the influence of Australian culinary culture on Singapore Airlines’ on-board food offerings by showcasing the nation’s sustainable local produce and native flavours. Highlights include pan-seared Tasmanian salmon with an aniseed and myrtle rub, and Jack's Creek wagyu sirloin seasoned with saltbush and wild tomato. The menus will be available until 30 June, with separate rotating selections available in first, business and economy class. singaporeair.com

Warne (@garypeppergirl).

PRIVATE SKIES

EN ROUTE TO WELLNESS

Aman has expanded its private jet offerings with the addition of two new wellness itineraries that combine custom-designed health and fitness programs with globetrotting. Guests travelling on the Southeast Asian itinerary will visit Indonesia, the Philippines and Vietnam, while practicing a combination of Pilates, yoga, breathwork and body rolling led by expert trainer Yamuna Zake. Alternatively, guests can choose to explore India, Sri Lanka and Thailand while improving their spiritual and physical wellness through yoga, Pilates and structural integration, under the expert eye of James D’Silva and Eyal Chehanowski. The jet wellness journeys will launch in September and pricing is available on enquiry. aman.com/expeditions/private-jet/pan-asia-september

POINTS HACKS FROM STEVE HUI, IFLYFLAT

One of the best value ways to use frequent flyer points is when flying first class from Australia to the UAE. The joy of travel is in the peace and quiet of looking over the clouds with your noise-cancelling headphones playing your favourite tunes. The 14hour flight from Sydney/Melbourne to Dubai/Abu Dhabi is the perfect length to enjoy the luxuries, allowing you to settle, relax and put your busy mind to rest. There's time to fully enjoy the food service, be adventurous with the drinks menu, catch a movie or two, read a few chapters of your book, or even do a bit of work and grab a nap.

Emirates first class, Sydney/ Melbourne to Dubai (round-trip) is 288,000 Qantas Frequent Flyer or Emirates Skyward points, plus taxes.

Etihad First Apartments, Sydney/ Melbourne to Abu Dhabi (round-trip) is 257,561 Etihad Guest or 305,000 Virgin Velocity points, plus taxes.

When flying Emirates first class or in the Etihad first apartments enjoy the extra benefits of a shower on-board and a bar for mingling with other passengers, making it a true delight to travel. iflyflat.com.au

BESPOKE JET-CENTRIC EXPERIENCES

Recently launched private jet company Adagold Luxe is offering a new way to travel to destinations in Australia, New Zealand and the Pacific. The brand has partnered with leading luxury properties and super yacht charter company Northrop & Johnson to create a number of all-inclusive ‘Jet-Centric Experiences’. These bespoke itineraries range from The Great Southern Gastronomic Experience through South Australia and Tasmania to an Oceania Luxury Escape jetting to New Zealand, Fiji and Bora Bora. Each trip includes limousine transfers to a private jet terminal, accommodation at highend properties, custom catering and a selection of exclusive experiences. adagoldluxe.com

AIR NEW ZEALAND BUSINESS PREMIER/ AUCKLAND INTERNATIONAL

Reviewed by: Chris Frame

Look & feel

The lounge is bright and airy, and benefits from a lot of natural light thanks to huge windows that offer an impressive view of awaiting aircraft. It was peak hour when I visited, and very full, yet there was a pleasant and sophisticated ambiance. The lounge is decorated in a clean, modern style with furnishings that echo the Air New Zealand brand colours. Dark grey seating is juxtaposed with white tiles and pink chairs, and it all comes together well to create a very pleasant space. Standout features include a winter garden indoor/outdoor area where, in good weather, the roof opens letting in fresh air and natural light.

Entertainment

There’s fast, free WiFi throughout the lounge and plenty of things to keep you busy. There’s a popular media room where lounge chairs are set up facing a large screen (playing a rugby match when I visited) and a business centre for those working on the go (with laptops available to borrow if you’ve forgotten your own). This is a modern lounge built with today’s travel habits in mind, so power and USB outlets abound. Outside the

business zone power is available at nearly every seat, with outlets cleverly installed in walls, on the floor and even in tables between the seats.

Eat in

One of the most popular areas of this lounge is the coffee bar. It was in constant use. The lounge is high tech, and includes an electronic ordering system for coffee and tea. There’s also an app that regular visitors can download, meaning by the time you arrive at the lounge your order is ready!

Another popular area was the restaurant. When I visited, a chef was cooking a variety of breakfast dishes in a live demonstration. It smelt great! For time-poor visitors like me, there’s a self-service buffet, which included typical premiumlounge fare such as breads, muffins and fruit salad.

At the bar I saw tap beers (local ale Steinlager had a good presence) and bottled spirits on display.

Freshen up There are a number of relaxation areas within

the lounge with three hanging chairs being a firm favourite. These seats are suspended from the ceiling and give a hammock-like feel through a gentle swaying movement. There are also bright pink daybeds, which are far more comfortable than they appear.

The shower rooms are pleasant with ample space to refresh between flights. They include a large dresser and mirror, a toilet and a shower area with both rainwater and handheld options. Towels are provided and amenity kits can be requested.

Family friendly?

The lounge really stands out here. It has excellent facilities for kids and young families by way of a dedicated kids zone. It is far bigger and more extensive than any other I’ve seen. This includes a parents’ lounge, kids’ play zone, a multi-storey cubby house, toys, games, a beanbag room, and even a small observation area where the kids can see their parents in the lounge below.

Our rating

The cabin

SINGAPORE AIRLINES

FLIGHT NUMBER: SQ 291 / BOEING 777-200

Route: Canberra to Wellington / Class: Business / Seat: 14D

Flight Time: 3 hours and 15 minutes / Startrax rating: / Reviewed by: Katie Milton

This flight was on the older Boeing 777-200 –the business class cabin had 38 seats in the 2-2-2 layout and somewhat lacklustre interiors, but was comfortable enough for this short daytime hop across the Tasman.

The seat

Standing at less than 160 centimetres, I felt tiny in this spacious seat. It was 56 centimetres wide and 193 centimetres long with an eight-degree incline when in flat-bed mode. Positioned in the middle aisle, my neighbour and I

both had direct aisle access. There wasn’t much storage space but the massive amount of legroom more than made up for it.

The service

Is 10am too early for champagne? I decided it wasn’t when the option between bubbles and orange juice was offered before take off. A flight attendant also came around with a selection of magazines and newspapers prior to departure and the delightful service continued throughout the flight.

The food

A “light” (three-course) lunch was served on board starting with a seared yellow fin tuna nicoise salad that I followed with a braised barramundi fillet in garlic chilli sauce served with vegetables and egg noodles, and a glass of 2015 Mud House Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough, New Zealand. There was a good selection of Australian and New Zealand wines and I was almost tempted by the Singapore Sling on the cocktail menu. Dessert was an option of strawberry tiramisu cake

or an assorted cheese and fruit plate.

The entertainment

There was no way I could get through the 1000plus entertainment options on this short flight. I put on my Phitek noise-cancelling headphones and settled in to watch Allied (starring Brad Pitt and Marion Cotillard) on the 39.1-centimetre screen.

The highs

Launched last September, this new Capital Express route flies four times per week and connects

Baggage: 40kg plus two carry-on items up to seven kilograms each

Loyalty program: KrisFlyer

WiFi: No

Pyjamas: No

Amenities kit: No

Canberra to Wellington in less than three and a half hours. This eliminates the previous connections with Sydney or Auckland – a big time saver for business travellers. We whisked through the bright new international gate at Canberra Airport, which was very quiet on a Sunday, and waited in the Virgin Australia lounge. On board, the three-cheese plate with White Savourine Log, Maffra Red Wax Cheddar and Tarwin Blue was a delicious standout, and the amount of space made it an extremely comfortable journey.

The lows

Maybe due to the short flight, the entree and main course were not up to Singapore Airlines’ usual standard.

Our rating

www.vomofiji.com

with a twist

STEP OUT OF THE JEEP AND INTO AN ADVENTURE. LUCY JONES DISCOVERS THERE’S MORE THAN ONE WAY TO TAKE A LUXURY SAFARI.

TRACK SNOW LEOPARDS THROUGH THE HIMALAYAS

With their shaggy white-grey coats and delicate teddy-bear ears, snow leopards look disarmingly sweet, but these are some of the fiercest predators on earth. Tey have adapted to live in incredibly harsh environments – on steep rocky mountains in freezing temperatures –and can leap more than six times their own body length to take down unsuspecting wild sheep and goats. Tere are just a few thousand snow leopards left in the world, spread across a dozen countries in the foothills of the Himalayas. In Search of the Snow Leopard, a new expedition from andBeyond in the Indian state of Ladakh, is on the trail. Te journey includes seven nights at Snow Leopard Lodge, from where you will set out each day on foot or in a four-wheel drive accompanied by a local

guide to trek through the cold desert in search of these elusive big cats.

13 days from US$5,726 (about A$7,575) per person. andbeyond.com

SOAR ABOVE THE SERENGETI IN A BALLOON

Get a unique perspective on the world’s most famous national park from the basket of a hot air balloon. Taking off at dawn, the balloon will float gently over migrating herds of wildebeest, lone tusker elephants or lions feasting on a fresh kill. Te flight takes you into remote areas of the park where off-road driving is not permitted, and allows you to appreciate wildlife trails and migration routes that are not perceptible from ground level. Te balloon travels with the winds so each journey is different, though animal sightings are virtually guaranteed.

Te morning finishes with a safari-style champagne breakfast, complete with bone china and white-robed waiters, under a secluded acacia tree.

Flight from US$546 (about A$722) per person. balloonsafaris.com

DIVE WITH HUMPBACKS OFF MOZAMBIQUE

Who says a safari has to be on dry land? Each year from July to October, pods of humpback whales make their way from Antarctica up the east coast of Africa on their way to the warmth of the Indian Ocean for calving season. Mozambique has a front row seat to the migration and is one of the best places in the world to get up close to these giants of the deep. Te waters are free of killer whales, the humpbacks’ only predator, so the whales tend to be calm and will take time for

Above from left: A rare snow leopard; elephants spotted from a hot air balloon. Opposite: Dive with humpbacks in Mozambique.

Mozambique has a front row seat to the migration and is one of the best places in the world to get up close to these giants of the deep.

MICHAEL

underwater acrobatics and powerful breaches. Journeys by Design can create a custom itinerary, staying at a luxurious private-island resort, wilderness lodge or eco camp, and including snorkelling or diving with internationally qualified instructors.

10 nights from US$10,000 (about A$13,234) per person. journeysbydesign.com

EXPLORE THE OKAVANGO DELTA ON HORSEBACK

It’s one thing to drive beside a herd of zebra, but quite another to ride along with them at a thundering gallop. Horseback safaris present a rare opportunity for humans to feel at one with the animals they are tracking, blending into the everyday life of Botswana’s magnificent Okavango Delta. Te delta doubles in size each year with the annual floods, leaving much of it inaccessible to jeeps. On a horse, you can ride across vast untouched flood plains or through fields of tall grass, perched high above in your saddle. Spot giraffe, elephant, buffalo, antelope and, if you’re lucky, the critically endangered wild dog. You’ll need to be an experienced rider and be prepared to spend up to six hours a day in the saddle, though you can relax each night in a luxury bush camp complete with plunge pool.

Five days from A$3,350 per person. forthandwonder.com.au

TAKE A WALK ON THE WILD SIDE IN ZAMBIA

Te rugged South Luangwa National Park in Zambia is the birthplace of the walking safari and even now, decades later, animals in the park remain unperturbed by the sight of people hiking through their habitat. Groups of up to 70 hippos (known variously as a crash, bloat or herd) can be found wallowing in the shallows of the Luangwa River, and large herds of elephant, zebra and buffalo will be grazing on the plains. Robin Pope Safaris is one of the original operators in the region and has been taking walking safaris for almost 30 years. Tere’s around 10 kilometres of walking each day, across landscapes that vary from dry grassland to shallow river crossings. Groups are escorted by a guide who carries a gun for safety (though it is almost never used). A mobile pop-up camp follows the group with spacious tents, comfortable beds, showers and good-quality meals.

Nine nights from US$6,611 (about A$8,750) per person. robinpopesafaris.net

See more images from this story at luxurytravelmag.com.au

Above to right: A vibrantly coloured lilacbreasted roller; river crossings on foot.

Groups of up to 70 hippos (known variously as a crash, bloat or herd) can be found wallowing in the shallows of the Luangwa River, and large herds of elephant, zebra and buffalo will be grazing on the plains.

ULTIMATE POP-UP VOLCANO ADVENTURE

Four Seasons Resort Hualalai has recently launched an overnight Ultimate Pop-Up Volcano Adventure. The 27-hour itinerary begins with guests boarding a private helicopter for a scenic tour of Hawaii, taking in views of beaches, waterfalls and secluded valleys only accessible by helicopter. During this journey, a pre-eminent volcanologist will provide guests with expert commentary on the unique scenery. After touching down, guests will be led on a bike tour to see the point where millions of litres of lava flow into the ocean every hour. Accommodation is at the Rainforest Cottage Hideaway, a secret residence located in a 1,000 year old rainforest, complete with Four Seasons staff and amenities. Before bed, guests will be taken on a tour of Kilauea Caldera where they can view the glowing lava flow up close. The next day will start with another helicopter exploration of the island, followed by a visit to a secluded beach for a few hours of swimming and relaxation before returning to the resort.

The Ultimate Pop-Up Volcano Adventure is exclusive to guests of Four Seasons Resort Hualalai. It is priced at US$39,500 (about A$52,200) for up to four people. fourseasons.com/hualalai

FIELD NOTES

l COMMUNITY ENGAGEMENT ON YOUR BIKE

Luxury tour provider

Abercrombie & Kent has recently partnered with Working Bikes and Wheels of Change to facilitate the delivery of 800 second-hand bikes to The Dipetsana Women’s Bike Shop in Botswana. The bikes play an important role in the local economy, increasing access to medical care and employment opportunities as well as helping to empower local women by increasing their independence. Dipetsana has also donated 10 of the bikes to the local primary school and one to the charitable organisation Elephants Without Borders. This is the second such project undertaken by Abercrombie & Kent, after the success of a similar initiative in Zambia. akphilanthropy.org

Yacht charter company Y.CO has launched an environmental conservation initiative which aims to reduce the eight million tonnes of plastic waste that end up in the ocean each year. The Clearwater program will see single-use plastic items on board their fleet replaced with reusable alternatives designed by water bottle company S’well.

Y.CO is also focusing on educating crew members about environmentally friendly on-board operations and will be screening the documentary A Plastic Ocean as an educational tool for staff. y.co

l

TOUR ANTHOLOGY

ANCIENT HISTORY ON THE AMALFI COAST

Art and history aficionados can now cruise the azure waters of Italy’s Amalfi Coast on a luxury boat tour led by archaeologist Dr Sophy Downes and art historian Francesca del Vecchio. The eight-day journey takes guests on an enlightening exploration of the famous coastline, stopping off at a number of popular sites, including the Isle of Capri and Pompeii, as well as some specially selected lesser-known sites such as the ancient underwater city at Baia and the Roman frescoes of the Villa Oplontis. Guests will stay onboard a newly refitted traditional Turkish gulet with just six cabins, accommodating a maximum of 10 guests each trip. The trip is run by archeological tour specialist Peter Sommer Travels and departs Naples on September 2 and September 9, 2017. Rates start from £3,975 (about A$5,660) per person twin share, including airport transfers, seven nights aboard the gulet, all entrance fees, expert guided excursions and WiFi when coverage permits. petersommer.com

HIGH-END CHINA WITH IMPERIAL TOURS

Peninsula Hotels has partnered with high-end travel designer Imperial Tours to launch an exclusive range of private jet tours through China. Centred on culture, gastronomy or family travel, the three journeys will take travellers through Hong Kong, Shanghai and Beijing with stays at a Peninsula Hotel in each city.

The Culinary Voyage through China is a 10-day journey beginning in Beijing where guests will meet Peninsula Beijing chefs and watch them prepare Peking duck as well

as partake in an introduction to Northern Chinese cuisine cooking class. Other highlights include dinner at a Michelin two-star restaurant in Shanghai, a Cantonese dim sim class at The Peninsula Hong Kong, and a helicopter flight over the city and surrounding coast. Rates start from HKD202,230 (about A$34,500) per person, twin share.

Families can embark on the 10-day Family Tour of China where they will be taken on private tours through Tiananmen Square and the

Forbidden City, see a Chinese acrobatic show in Shanghai, and go behind the scenes of the panda enclosures at Ocean Park in Hong Kong. Rates start from HKD792,760 (about A$135,360) for a family of four.

The Culture & Heritage of China tour features a private exploration of 798 Art District in Beijing, a Chinese calligraphy painting class and private visits to Hong Kong’s contemporary art centres. Rates start from HKD198,190 (about A$33,840) per person, twin share. imperialtours.net/ imperial/private-jet-tours

UNDERWATER EXPLORER DIVE THE TITANIC

More than 100 years after the RMS Titanic’s ill-fated maiden voyage, intrepid history lovers now have the chance to rediscover the world’s most famous shipwreck hidden thousands of metres under the sea. Blue Marble Private are offering an eight-day journey, led by OceanGate Expeditions, on which guests enter a specially designed titanium and carbon fibre submersible alongside a crew of deep sea experts to explore the ship firsthand. The journey will begin with a helicopter journey from St John’s in Newfoundland, Canada, to the expedition support yacht where adventurers will learn how to assist the crew and how to participate in a successful deep-sea mission. Dives will take place over a number of days, with a limit of three passengers at a time accompanying the pilot and deep-sea expert while the remaining passengers support the mission from on-board the ship.

Rates start from US$105,129 (about A$139,675) per person, which is the equivalent of a First Class passage on the Titanic’s inaugural sailing after adjusting for inflation. The missions will launch in May 2018, with further dates already planned for summer 2019. bluemarbleprivate.com/insight/dive-the-titanic

MEET ROYALTY THE ROYAL TREATMENT

Epic India Travel has become the first ever tour company to offer face-to-face meetings with Indian royalty as part of an exclusive itinerary. Their newly launched 17-day Indian Royal Tour features meetings with royals in four separate palaces across the country. Guests will receive royal receptions at each palace, entering the grounds on an elephant or in a horse-drawn carriage while trumpets and drums herald their arrival. During the visits, guests will dine on secret recipes and homemade liquor served exclusively to royals and their guests. The tour will also take in the highlights of the country including an exploration of the bazaars of New and Old Delhi, a boat trip down the River Ganges, a visit to the holy Buddhist site of Sarnath and, of course, a trip to the Taj Mahal for a luxury high tea. Guests will also be treated to exclusive experiences like a bush dinner on the desert dunes of Jodhpur and a private dinner on a 150 year old boat used by Maharajas.

Prices start from £66,640 (about A$113,300) per couple. epicindiatravel.com

REMOTE WEST AFRICA KINGDOMS, SLAVES AND VOODOO

Experiential luxury pioneer Abercrombie & Kent has released a 16-day West African itinerary that uncovers the fascinating culture and history of this rarely visited region. Starting in the coastal region of Togo, West Africa, the Kingdoms, Slaves and Voodoo tour will explore the traditions of the area, including a visit to a voodoo practitioner and the chance to observe a traditional ceremony complete with trance-dances. The group will then journey inland to the Ashanti kingdom in Ghana to attend an Akwasidae Festival, where the local people pay respect to their ancestors,

as well as a traditional Ashanti funeral ceremony. The tour ends in Benin, whose shore includes the area formerly known as the Slave Coast. Guests can visit the infamous ‘Slave Castle’ and see relics of the area’s haunting past. Other highlights of the trip include a meeting with a traditional witch doctor, a boat trip to a stilt fishing village in Ganvie and a tour of the UNESCO World Heritage Listed Abomey Palaces. The two 2018 tours will run from 27 March to 11 April and from 23 October to 7 November. Prices start from A$12,150 per person twin share. abercrombiekent.com.au

Non - Stop Service

3 FLIGHTS WEEKLY MON, WED, SAT

SYDNEY - HANOI

MAIN EVENT

HERE’S HOW TO GAIN VIP ACCESS TO THE WORLD’S BEST SPORTING AND CULTURAL EVENTS.

ART BASEL, BASEL 15-18 JUNE, 2017

Basel is an underrated travel destination, yet there is plenty to recommend about Switzerland’s third most populous city. On the Rhine River at the tri-point of Switzerland, Germany and France, this pocket-sized town is effortlessly cool and sophisticated, and one of the most culturally rich places in Europe. From Kleinbasel on the east bank to the medieval Old Town and Grossbasel in the south, it’s an eclectic melting pot of fashion, food, music and design.

The city also packs an artistic punch. Its 37 square kilometres contain a remarkable 40 museums – a cultural concentration that few cities in Europe can rival. In the city centre, the Kunstmusuem Basel houses one

of the most significant fine art collections in the world. This includes 4,000 paintings and sculptures from the 15th century to the present day. Its new state-of-the-art wing opened in April last year. In Riehen, on the outskirts of Basel, the Fondation Beyeler, a world-class 20th century modern art gallery that houses a permanent collection that includes Rothko, Kandinsky and Van Gogh, is celebrating 20 years.

Its biggest ‘museum’ though, is undeniably Art Basel. Now in its 48th edition, it’s the most important event on the international art calendar, attracting art collectors and curators, the jet set and more than 4,000 artists from 219 of the world’s leading international galleries.

On show will be a mix of modern and contemporary painting, sculpture, drawing, installation, photography and video works including important multimedia works by renowned South Korean artist, Nam June Paik, a new ‘atmospheric’ installation by Guan Xiao, and rare Max Beckmann prints from the 1910s and 1920s.

Serious art collectors, museum directors and curators, art advisors, and internationally known artists can apply for the highly coveted VIP card and even rarer First Choice VIP, exclusive access cards that provide plus-one entry to invite-only premier events held throughout Art Basel. The Art Basel Champagne Breakfast in the Rundhof is one, along with curated Art Basel

TUCCI RUSSO STUDIO PER ARTE CONTEMPORANEA

AMERICA’S CUP IN BERMUDA

The 35th America’s Cup, presented by Louis Vuitton, will take place in Bermuda in June 2017. The event will see the current reigning champions, Oracle Team USA, pitted against challenging yachts from France, Japan, New Zealand, Sweden and the United Kingdom in order to retain possession of the oldest trophy in international sport. Luxury expedition specialists Butterfield & Robinson has created a Bermuda itinerary especially for yachting enthusiasts. Highlights of the six-day trip include watching the races from a 61-foot private boat, exploring nearby islands and meeting with one of the event sponsors, Olympian Jim Butterfield.

When: 23-28 June, 2017

Where: Bermuda

Price: US$8,495 (about A$11,265) per person for a six-day, five-night package.

Package Includes: Five nights’ accommodation at the Fairmont Southampton; all meals including wine; a guide; all special events, private tours, guest experts and entrance fees; two days aboard a private motor yacht; all transportation; and all gratuities. butterfield.com/ trip/bermuda-americas-cup

Salon talks and the all-important Vernissage, a first-look at the best of the show and its up-andcoming artists, held on 14 June.

Cardholders can relax during the event at both the Davidoff Cigar Lounge and the Collectors Lounge. The VIP card also gives holders free admission to all city museums other than Schaulager.

For downtime, Hotel Les Trois Rois is an elegant spot for sunset drinks overlooking the Rhine River. It’s also where Restaurant Cheval Blanc, a Michelin three-star restaurant, can be found. Rubino Restaurant, close to Kunstmuseum Basel, is an elegant neighbourhood bistro with seasonal and organic produce, a ‘surprise’ fivecourse degustation menu and local wines.

BELINDA LUKSIC

l THE DETAILS

Serious art collectors, art advisors, museum directors and curators can access the art VIP card, which gives exclusive entry to invite-only previews and events on 13 and 14 June, including Vernissage. The First Choice VIP Card is available by application only.

Chauffeur Drive offer special rates and packages for Art Basel. Contact Nicole Hischier at nicole.hischier@chauffeur-drive.ch or call +41 44 804 10 50 for bookings and further information.

lWHERE TO STAY

Basel Tourism and Art Basel offer allinclusive packages that comprise overnight accommodation such as The Nomad Design and Lifestyle Hotel, a funky four-star concept stay, free transport on the Basel Mobility Card, and entry to the fair. See basel.com for more information.

MARK NIEDERMANN

STEFANO GARAU / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Opposite: Luna Rossa catamaran in the 2015 America’s Cup.

THE NOMAD DESIGN AND LIFESTYLE HOTEL.

As one of the most exclusive events on the sporting calendar, tickets to Wimbledon are highly coveted and notoriously difficult to obtain. Grand Slam Tennis Tours provide packages that include Debenture seats at the men’s and women’s finals, as well as a full itinerary

of VIP Wimbledon experiences. Guests of Grand Slam Tennis Tours will have access to Hospitality House where London chef and cookbook author Milli Taylor will be acting as a private chef, serving up a daily brunch and evening tea throughout the tournament. Hospitality House, a lovely English home a short walk from the All England Club where Wimbledon is staged, will also function as an event space where guests can stop by to view an exhibition of artworks from Barcelona-based artist Marc Rabal.

Those looking for even more exclusive experiences can upgrade to the VIP package, which includes dinner with Wimbledon doubles champion Fred Stolle, a private tour of the Wimbledon grounds, and the opportunity to play a round against a past or current Wimbledon legend at the Roehampton Club in London.

When: 3-16 July, 2017

Where: London, England

Price: Standard pricing for the six-night finals package starts at US$13,650 (about A$18,105) per person twin share. The VIP package starts from US$21,650 (about A$28,690) per person, however prices vary depending on which players are available to meet with guests.

VIP Package Includes: Six nights’ accommodation at The Hari Hotel; airport transfers; Centre Court Debenture tickets to the men’s and women’s finals rounds; access to Hospitality House including daily brunch and evening tea as well as snacks and refreshments; a welcome gift which includes apparel from Hedge; a signed original artwork from artist Marc Rabal; a round of tennis with a past or present Wimbledon tennis professional at Roehampton Club; private dinner with Fred Stolle; and a behind the scenes tour of the Wimbledon grounds. grandslamtennistours.com/wimbledonpackages/

l TENNIS WIMBLEDON

AELTC/JOEL MARKLUND

Left: Serena Williams (USA) in the 2016 Ladies’ Singles final on Centre Court.

Below: Juan Martin Del Potro (ARG) against Stan Wawrinka (SUI) in the Gentlemen’s Singles, 2016.

AELTC/EDDIE KEOGH

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24-HOURS IN WELLINGTON

THE NEW QT MUSEUM WELLINGTON

THE BEST PLACES TO STAY IN LONDON

A NEW STAR FF TEES

It’s easy to forget where you are on Vietnam’s Golf Coast. With a grand selection of new golf courses chiselled out from surrounding rainforest, and with green grass fairways running right onto sandy white beaches and into sparkling blue water, I could well be in Florida, or Southern California.

But then a voice blares from a cackling loudspeaker. A group leader ‘encourages’ workers in a nearby state-run community farm and the sound of it echoes for miles. And as I stroll down some fairways I see remnants of the country’s 60 years at war (the bunkers around here, believe me, are not just of the sand variety).

Golfers from the First World have led a charge into many areas of Southeast Asia, arriving in ever-increasing numbers at courses throughout Thailand, Bali, Malaysia and China. Course designers – many of whom rank among the biggest names in the game – stumbled over themselves to build the fanciest courses, in the most startling locations, outdoing each other in a contest which has bordered, at times, on farcical. But Vietnam never bothered joining the race.

The Vietnamese government never saw the point. Golf is, after all, a sport that perhaps best epitomises the decadence of leisure activities in the capitalist western world. What, really, could be further from its communist ideals? In favour of jobs growth, that attitude has changed.

Tell your buddies you’re travelling to Vietnam to play golf and they’ll probably give you a funny look, but therein lies one of the biggest attractions of golfing in Vietnam. Right now you still have the chance to play some of Asia’s best new

Laguna Lang Co is one of Asia’s most challenging golf courses.

VIETNAM IS RENOWNED FOR ITS RICH CULTURE AND CUISINE. AS CRAIG TANSLEY DISCOVERS, IT IS ALSO ASIA’S LATEST HOTSPOT FOR A LUXURY GOLFING HOLIDAY.

courses in a country where few golfers go. But you’d better get there quick. The International Association of Golf Travel Operators named Vietnam the “Undiscovered Golf Destination Of The Year” in 2012. But that’s sure changing fast.

There are now more than 40 championship courses in Vietnam; many of them complete resorts with accommodation and restaurants as impressive as the greens themselves. Meanwhile, there are about 25 more courses in development and the government has shared plans for an additional 80 by 2020.

Some of the best new courses can be found in a region helpfully dubbed the ‘Golf Coast’, on Vietnam’s central coastline. It’s the ideal access point for Australian golfers to start their golfing holiday – four of Asia’s top championship courses are here.

I land in Danang and am amazed by its transformation since I was last here seven years ago. Once a backwater used by travellers as nothing much but a thoroughfare on their way to the World Heritage Listed historic fishing village of Hoi An, 30 kilometres south, Danang is now one of Vietnam’s most sophisticated tourist centres. Fancy cafes and bars run along the Han riverfront, and five-star resorts are nestled among the

From top: The 18th hole at The Bluffs at Ho Tam Strip; caddies at the Danang Golf Club; the Sky Course at Sky Lake Resort.

“You still have the chance to play some of Asia’s best new courses in a country where few golfers go.”

HOTEL PENSION GRIMUS

MT BULLER, VICTORIA

AUSTRALIA’S BEST SKI HOTEL

World Ski Awards 2016, 2015, 2014, 2013

Hotel Pension Grimus is the ideal choice for a ski holiday for two or the whole family. This renowned, multi award winning boutique hotel has an enviable ski in, ski out location only 50m from the ABOM Chairlift on the Bourke St ski run and 100m from the Mt Buller Ski School. Hotel Pension Grimus easily lives up to its iconic status on the mountain with its traditional Austrian ski lodge ambience and attentive European hospitality, thanks to owners Hans and Lotte Grimus and their staff. Expect delightfully decorated chalet style hotel rooms with spa ensuites and spacious, luxuriously appointed, self contained apartments. For virtual tours, floor plans and online reservations please go to www.pensiongrimus.com.au

After a day on the piste, unwind in the sauna and spa complex before heading to Herbie’s cocktail bar and its impressive collection of imported schnapps. Some guests find it difficult to move from the bar, but trying the regional, produce driven cuisine with an Austrian twist in Kaptans Restaurant is worth the effort.

The Grimus Ski Centre conveniently located on the ground floor of the hotel, has long opening hours, competitive rates, professional fitting staff and a large range of quality equipment suitable for all skiers and snowboarders. Hire on-mountain for hassle-free convenience. For further information and online bookings go to www.grimusskicentre.com

Tel: 03 5777 6396 | Fax: 03 5777 6127

reservations@pensiongrimus.com.au

www.pensiongrimus.com.au

www.grimusskicentre.com

Some of the best new courses can be found in a region helpfully dubbed the ‘Golf Coast’, on Vietnam’s central coastline. Four of Asia’s top championship courses are here.

high-tide mark of a strip of coastline Forbes magazine ranks as one of the world’s most attractive.

It’s a convenient location for golfers who’d prefer not to travel far between courses, but that’s not to say there isn’t still plenty to see beyond the green. I travel an hour north of the city to my favourite course, the Sir Nick Faldo-designed Laguna Lang Co. The road takes me past old fishing towns where I stop at floating restaurants on waterways while fishing boats bob beside me, and locals use wooden fish traps to supply our lunch. Water buffalos still till the soils round here. Yet the resort is as sophisticated as any you’ll find in Asia. The course takes golfers into the foothills of a coastal mountain range, while at times I’m also playing right beside the beach.

While the Golf Coast is home to the biggest investment in Vietnam’s golfing future, there are many options elsewhere. I fly less than an hour to Hanoi where there are 10 world-class championship courses just outside the city’s fringe. The most stunning is the 36-hole Sky Lake Resort & Golf Club where I play in among karst rock outcrops that stick out of the surrounding farmland at sheer right angles. There are tee-offs here that make me hit across gaping chasms where rivers flow right beneath, and yet, within 45 minutes I’m in the Vietnamese capital with all its French colonial charm and modern convenience.

Further south, Ho Chi Minh City is also home to many new world-class championship courses, with more set to open by 2018. Further still, the best new course in the country – and in Southeast Asia – lies two hours south and was only opened to the public in 2015. It’s a thrilling ride from the city along narrow roads that dissect thousands of hectares of paddy fields. Greg Norman designed The Bluffs at Ho Tram Strip, and it’s one hell of a test. On most holes I’d just as soon stand at the tee-box and stare at the views than try to play the obstacle course Norman created. But with the sharp rise and fall on each hole and stunning views over the surrounding coastline, there’s no prettier course in Southeast Asia. The air’s thick with dragonflies and there are lizards in the bunker longer than my clubs – and forget about looking for your ball should you dare to hit it left or right of the fairway. But at the end of play, if you haven’t lost all the balls in your bag, you should feel proud of yourself for finishing golf’s greatest new challenge.

What I like best is that there’s still a feeling of adventure when playing golf in Vietnam. Courses aren’t teeming with the Australians and Americans who are still predominantly teeing off in Bali and Thailand. And so, for now, there’s still the chance to feel like you’ve discovered Vietnam for yourself, and the courses are yours alone to conquer.

See more images from this story at luxurytravelmag.com.au

GOLFASIAN VIETNAM offers a full golf tourism service including tee times, luxury accommodation and transfers. Packages can be tailored to suit individuals or groups. golfasian.com

GOLF COAST VIETNAM

Danang golf clubs and resorts are all members of Golf Coast Vietnam. golfcoastvietnam.com

DANANG GOLF CLUB dananggolfclub.com

LAGUNA LANG CO lagunalangco.com/golf

THE BLUFFS HO TRAM STRIP thebluffshotram.com

SKY LAKE GOLF RESORT skylakegolfclub.vn

From top: View from the Angsana hotel at Laguna Lang Co; a two-bedroom loft suite at Angsana.

Opposite page: Teeing off at the 10th hole of Laguna Lang Co.

AS GOOD AS IT GETS

Jon had seen it all. Or so he thought. A retired, self-made IT multi-millionaire from Denver, he spends a big chunk of each northern winter heli-skiing in Greenland, British Columbia or Alaska. And yet, here in the humble high alpine confines of a family farm on New Zealand’s South Island, he’s reached new heights: “I’m not too sure it gets better than this.”

I see Jon’s dilemma. We’re surrounded on three sides by our very own private heli-ski terrain, spread out across thousands of hectares of the Southern Alps. Huge mountains slope right down to where we’re sitting. And it’s all ours – just ours.

We’ve spent all day picking out the best runs across untracked bootdeep snow. And when we finish each run, we don’t have to wait for any other skiers. Instead our personal helicopter pilot is waiting for us, to take us back to the top to do it all over again.

We catch the last rays of sunshine on a crisp winter’s afternoon, sipping a glass of Burgundy, picking at crayfish from the country’s west coast prepared by our private chef. While Huka Lodge, New Zealand’s highest-rated lodge, garners much of the world’s attention, Minaret Station’s Alpine Lodge flies mostly under the radar. And yet, the experience here is so uniquely New Zealand it even comes complete with sheep. Importantly, it also comes with all the luxurious trimmings of the world’s best ski lodges, and more.

We’ve flown by helicopter (the four Wallis brothers who own Minaret Station also own their own alpine helicopter company) from Wanaka’s tiny airport, just above the emerald-green waters of Lake Wanaka and vast plains of native tussock grass and schist rock. It’s a rugged journey in, but as we approach our chalets, I see huge valleys of pretty beech forest and a waterfall cascading between the trees.

The Wallis brothers own all of this and they’ve flown me right inside their private universe – a 22,000-hectare high country farm

NEW ZEALAND IS RENOWNED FOR EXCEPTIONAL SNOW EXPERIENCES, BUT THE VERY BEST COULD WELL BE ONE YOU’VE NEVER HEARD OF, AS CRAIG TANSLEY DISCOVERS.

MINARET STATION BLANKETED IN SNOW

where thousands of sheep, deer and cattle feed. “This is just our life, where we live,” Matt Wallis says as we fly above the farm that his brother Jonathan looks after. “We wanted to show people a part of the South Island no-one else gets to see.”

The helicopter heads upwards above the forest and waterfall, to a huge valley dissected by a slow-moving river. Below the rise of snowy triangular mountains, four chalets sit in a valley no-one else will ever see. No-one else can get in, and without this chopper, no-one’s getting out.

There are many activities for guests to try, and a range of helicopter tours, including a journey to the west coast to catch your own crayfish. But I’m most excited that the Wallises offer untracked heli-skiing in the slopes around the lodge. These runs range in difficulty from drastically sloping, tight chutes for experts to family-friendly gently sloping descents down wide-open bowls. Where most heli-ski companies operate on government-owned land and often share runs with other companies, the Wallises own their runs. And even when all is green at the lodge itself, there's plenty of snow to be found up high. After a three-course breakfast and a soak in the hot tub outside my chalet to get my muscles ready for the effort ahead, a helicopter lands ready to take me skiing.

When I’m finished for the day, I take my boots off by the open fire in the lodge and look back up at the day’s runs. “We did 28 runs in a day once,” Matt tells me; the impressive effort triples mine. Later a chef cooks up local produce from the Wallis’s farm, and guests eat beside a roaring log fire in the woolskin-carpeted den. Though, for all the luxuries on offer, Matt says nothing seems to appeal as much to travellers as the chance to see how life is on a high country farm.

l STAY HERE

Minaret Station

Alpine Lodge is priced from NZ$2,000 (about A$1,876) per night, which includes all meals and beverages. Heli-skiing adventures and other helicopter excursions are additional.

Helicopter transfers in and out cost NZ$1,800 (about A$1,690) per adult. minaretstation.com

Main image: Your chopper awaits at Minaret Station. Inset from above: Fine dining is included in a stay at Minaret; take in the view from the private deck of your chalet.

See more images from this story at luxurytravelmag.com.au

TICKETS TO RIDE

THE LOCAL SKI SEASON IS UPON US, BUT BEFORE YOU BUY YOUR LIFT TICKETS YOU MIGHT WANT TO THINK BIGGER. TWO OF THE MOST POPULAR INTERNATIONAL SKI PASSES HAVE BEEN RAMPED UP. BRONWEN GORA EXPLAINS THE FINE PRINT.

If you’re the kind of person who plans their year around the freshest powder, an international ski pass should be on your radar. They give access to the world’s most prestigious international resorts with one easy swipe, are great value for money and offer a whole host of added extras. The Epic Australia Pass and Mountain Collective are two of the most sought-after passes available, and could well become even more popular after recently bolstering their offering.

EPIC AUSTRALIA PASS

2017/2018 – A$799

Skiing aside, this pass is regarded as one of the best value-for-money products in travel. It gives close to full-season access to almost a dozen international resorts for less than half the price of an average season pass sold by any major destination.

Most enticing is the full-season access to Perisher this winter season. Holders can then use their Epic Australia Pass for North America’s 2017/18 season to access worldclass resorts Park City in Utah; Breckenridge, Keystone and Arapahoe Basin in Colorado; and Heavenly, Northstar and Kirkwood in California/Nevada. Keep an eye on the blackout dates however, which tend to cover most major holidays.

As if that’s not enough, the pass also grants 10 days combined skiing at Whistler Blackcomb in Canada, and in Colorado, Vail and its neighbour Beaver Creek – all among the most prestigious on the continent. The pass carries discount deals for equipment hire and hotels, too.

To avoid the Epic Australia Pass holiday blackout periods (the lengthiest being 1931 December), and for unrestricted access to Whistler, Vail and Beaver Creek (not just the 10 days combined), a A$402 upgrade to the Epic Australia Pass Plus is available, bringing the total to A$1,201.

But even without the add-on, the Epic Australia Pass represents exceptional value. It pays for itself in well under a week and carries other benefits including 15 per cent off lessons and equipment hire, accommodation deals, and night skiing, boarding, and First Tracks mornings (wonderful for fresh snow days).

As the first to enter the market, Epic Aus-

tralia had first bite at the world’s most prestigious pistes. Vail and Beaver Creek are favoured destinations of billionaires, movie stars, presidents and royalty. Former US President Gerald Ford sold his long-time second home in Beaver Creek only recently. The Hyatt Hotel chain’s owners like to ski in Beaver Creek when staying at their property at the base of its slopes, and the ski-in ski-out Ritz Carlton in adjoining Bachelor Gulch also keeps the glamour factor high.

A 35-minute drive from Salt Lake City airport, Park City is the easiest resort to reach in North America. Hollywood’s Alist and more flock here for the annual Sundance Film Festival. Whistler is also popular with the famous, this year drawing Victoria and David Beckham to its slopes.

MOUNTAIN COLLECTIVE –US$429 (ABOUT A$570)

The big difference between this pass and the Epic is that it offers two free days’ skiing at over a dozen top destinations, plus a third free day at a resort of choice, then 50 per cent off the ticket-window price of day pass-

es thereafter. Another bonus is that there are no blackout dates. Mountain Collective passes for kids under-12 cost US$99 (about A$131) when bought with an adult pass.

Mountain Collective’s resorts comprise virtually every major competitor of the Epic family, starting with Thredbo. The collective then extends across the Tasman to New Zealand’s Coronet Peak and The Remarkables, and in North America to Aspen Snowmass and Telluride in Colorado; Jackson Hole in Wyoming; Snowbird, Alta and (new for 2017/18) Snowbasin in Utah; Revelstoke, Lake Louise and Sunshine in Canada; Sun Valley in Idaho; Squaw Valley Alpine Meadows and Mammoth Mountain in California; Sugarbush in Vermont (also new for 2017/2018); and Taos, New Mexico.

Don’t breathe out yet. Mountain Collective also covers two free days at its three ‘Global Affiliate Resorts’, an impressive trio comprising Chamonix in France, Hakuba Valley in Japan and the vast Chilean skifield of Valle Nevado close to Santiago.

Mountain Collective entered the fray just after Epic, its recruitment strategy

targeting the most impressive and popular resorts its forerunner had not yet acquired. Even non-skiers know Aspen’s name for its cache with the who’s who of Hollywood, Telluride’s part-time residents include Jerry Seinfeld, Tom Cruise and, until recently, Oprah Winfrey, while Chamonix is among the most revered of European alpine destinations.

OTHER PASSES

Well worth examining alongside the Epic and Mountain Collective products are the several multi-day passes sold by Australian ski travel companies. Compare them closely as one of these could easily suit your plans. Prestige ski wholesaler Travelplan offer two of the best multi-day options, especially for those with Aspen in their sights. The company books the majority of Australian travellers into Aspen (Australians are, in fact, Aspen’s largest international market over Christmas-New Year) and sells a multi-day Aspen Ski30 or Aspen Ski10 pass. As the names suggest, they’ll give you 30 or 10 consecutive days of ski-

ing for a flat rate, perfect if you’re planning a longer trip.

Before August 31, the Aspen Ski30 costs A$904 for adults and A$509 for children (aged 7-17) and seniors. The Aspen Ski10 is A$759 for adults and A$477 for children and seniors. These passes must be used on consecutive days and are valid between January 1 and March 31, 2018. There are shorter promotional passes available, so check with your booking agent.

A word of warning: surfing the web for multi-destination passes can easily uncover international products only available to domestic markets.

epicaustraliapass.com.au mountaincollective.com travelplan.com.au

Opposite page, from top: SA skiier enjoying fresh snow in Whistler; relaxing at Beaver Creek.

Above: Fresh powder at Whistler Blackcomb.

“ Mountain Collective's resorts comprise virtually every major competitor of the Epic family, starting with Thredbo. ”

MARK GRIBBON

A whole LOTTE FUN

INCLEMENT WEATHER SENDS LESLIE PATRICK MOORE UNDER COVER TO EXPLORE SEOUL’S LOTTE WORLD, ONE OF THE WORLD’S LARGEST INDOOR THEME PARKS.

hen it comes to theme parks, I might be considered somewhat of a snob. My parents met while working at Disneyland and I enjoyed the luxury of season passes throughout my childhood. So when I moved from the United States to Korea almost two years ago, Lotte World barely piqued my interest.

I’d heard from friends that this Korean-style Disneyland was a kids’ dream come true. Not only does the Lotte World entertainment complex contain one of the world’s largest indoor theme parks, but it also offers outdoor thrill rides, an ice-skating rink, a folk museum, an aquarium, parades, a shopping center and even a manmade lake.

It was time to see what all the fuss was about, but when the day came Korea was faced with a typhoon warning that likely meant heavy rain for Seoul. Fortunately most of the Lotte World activities are indoors and open 365 days a year, come rain, shine or typhoons. With this knowledge in mind, we set off.

Adjacent to the theme park is the sprawling Lotte Hotel World, a sleek, 469-room high-rise with views of the city and the park’s attractions. After navigating the busy streets of Seoul – one of the world’s megacities with a population of more than 10 million people – the polished lobby with its soaring atrium and cool marble accents is a welcome respite from the city’s frenetic energy.

After checking in, glass elevators whisk us skyward and we enter a whimsical room, decorated in a lively cartoon character theme (although I’m told these themes will change in July). Loti and Lory are Korea’s version of Mickey and Minnie (although they are raccoons, not mice), and they also feature the popular (and bizarre!) monkeysausage character from the Cocomong show. The kids love the oversized stuffed animals, the cartoon bedspreads, and the ceiling painted sky blue with fluffy white clouds. Our room overlooks the indoor part of the park, awash with natural light streaming in from the massive glass dome that covers it. With rides, balloon vendors and characters just below the window, the pointing and squealing begins.

First opened in 1989, Lotte World has been steadily growing and adding new attractions, and the park now welcomes close to eight million visitors a year. The typhoon warning must have scared away other would-be patrons, as the line at the gates was delightfully short upon entering.

Festive music blares, characters dance around, and joyful, roller coaster-induced screams echo throughout the massive space. Overhead, darkhaired children peek out of hot air balloons suspended from a track, meanwhile vendors sporting raccoon ears (no mouse ears here) smile and

wave, and couples wearing matching outfits wander hand in hand – I’ve learned that couplewear is all the rage in Korea. After contemplating buying matching raccoon ears for my husband and me, I decide we’ll instead try our first ride, a bumpy escapade through ancient Egypt in the fast-paced Pharaoh’s Fury.

It’s not raining yet, so we decide to visit Magic Island, the outdoor section of the park. Surrounded by a lake and with a Disney-esque castle in the center, this is where the larger, faster rides and coasters are located – including Magic Island’s most popular attraction, Atlantis Adventure, reported to reach speeds up to 72 kilometres per hour.

We ponder our next move: should we ride the carousel or grab some peanut butter roast squid? Just then lively music begins to blast from the sound system as an announcement declares the nightly parade is beginning. Dancers clad in mermaid costumes, bag pipers wearing Scottish kilts, and of course the stars of the show, Loti and Lory, dance their way through groups of tourists, while the catchy lyrics proclaim, “Welcome to Lotte World, we make your dreams come true, reach for the stars, and let the

This page from top: Indoor attractions; virtual reality roller coaster.

Opposite: Parade float with Loti and Lory.

sun come shining through!” The typhoon didn’t get the memo.

Back at the hotel, we indulge in a gourmet Chinese dinner at Toh Lim before calling it a day, but not before choosing a bottle from the restaurant’s extensive wine list.

The breakfast buffet serves Asian and Western dishes, and I grab a little bit of kimchi to add Korean flair to my omelette and toast. The typhoon’s cloudy fingers have finally stretched up to Seoul, and the rainy day means we’ll be exploring some of Lotte World’s indoor attractions. Though not particularly popular with the younger member in our party, I insist we visit the Lotte World Folk Museum, where 5,000 years of Korean history is on display, and there are daily traditional music and dance performances. After gazing at fossils, folk paintings and a model of a village from the Joseon Dynasty, we decide that it’s time to venture into different waters.

In the Lotte World Mall, across the street from Lotte World, we find the Lotte World Aquarium – Korea’s largest indoor aquarium and home to 55,000 creatures from 650 different marine species.

It’s still raining, so we decide to end the day at the hotel’s indoor pool, which is what most of the other guests have decided to do

as well. As I listen to the splashing, I daydream about visiting the posh Sulwhasoo Spa, whose brochure promises “harmony and tranquility between your mind and body.” There is a kids’ club at the hotel, so they might not even notice I'm gone.

As we watch the lights of the parade flashing below our window that night, the TV weather anchor announces the rain will continue for days. We dare the deluge to come: tucked away in our cosy room, snuggled up with Loti and Lory, nothing could ruin our Lotte World holiday.

STAY HERE

Rooms at the Lotte World Hotel start from KRW189,000 (about A$220) per night and character-themed rooms start from KRW260,000 (about A$302) per night. Packages including overnight accommodation at the hotel and a double entry pass to Lotte World start from KRW270,000 (about A$315). Additional entry passes are available for KRW23,000 (about A$26) per person. lottehotel.com/world/en

ACTIVITIES FOR FAMILIES IN SEOUL

✷ Go back in time at Gyeongbokgung Palace

Elegant architecture, blossoming gardens and tranquil ponds entice families in this 14th century palace complex in central Seoul.

✷ Take a cable car to N Seoul Tower

The focal point of the city, N Seoul Tower on Namsan Mountain offers an observation deck, a cafe and an upscale French restaurant with panoramic views.

✷ Cruise along the Hangang River

Enjoy dinner as you sail along the mighty Hangang watching Seoul’s main attractions light up the night sky.

✷ Ski in Pyeongchang

A new high-speed train constructed ahead of the 2018 Winter Olympics will make reaching the slopes a whole lot easier. Stay at Yongpyong Ski Resort – one of Korea’s largest.

✷ Stroll by the Cheonggyecheon stream

Filled with waterfalls and lined with walking paths, this lively manmade stream wends its way nearly 11 kilometres through central Seoul and provides a lively atmosphere for family outings.

Above: Character themed suite at Lotte Hotel World.

Opposite from top: The Disneyesque Magic Castle; dancers in the parade.

See more images from this story at luxurytravelmag.com.au

“Welcome to Lotte World, we make your dreams come true, reach for the stars, and let the sun come shining through!”

DISCOVER THE VIEWS THAT ONLY MERITON SERVICED APARTMENTS CAN OFFER...

A calledplace KOKOMO

ONE MAN’S DREAM HAS BECOME EVERY GUEST’S DREAM HOLIDAY, WRITES MARGO PFEIFF .

ith a loud “crack”, Coconut Joe whacks his machete to open a fresh green coconut he’s holding, slips a straw in the opening and hands it to me with a wide grin. “Bula!” he shouts and the gathered staff members break into the Fijian welcoming song outside the open-air lobby of Kokomo Island resort.

Then my butler introduces himself and guides me to my bure – traditional thatched roof, but chic and modern beneath, surrounded by hibiscus and bougainvillea fluttering with dragonflies and butterflies. I have my own infinity pool metres from the sandy beach, an indoor and outdoor shower, and a pool-sized bathtub. In my luxurious open-concept room awaits the chilled champagne, feather pillows and snug bathrobe I chose in an extensive pre-arrival questionnaire that landed in my inbox weeks ago.

Only 15 minutes earlier my pilot had banked his Bell helicopter after an hour-long scenic flight from Nadi towards the remote Kadavu Island Group. “That’s Yaukuve Island,” he said, pointing towards one in an exquisite cluster of sea-fringed islets with a dock extending from a blindingly white, palm-lined beach.

That sandy strand is calling me, so I grab a mask and snorkel and slip into impossibly clear, balmy water to float above an aquarium flickering with neon-coloured fish – including several clown fish hiding among the anemones. Within moments, one of the resident turtles glides by.

Officially opening its doors on 1 April, Kokomo is Fiji’s latest five-star luxury private island resort. It’s an ambitious project and a labour of love for Australian billionaire property developer Lang Walker, whose projects include the redevelopment of Parramatta’s city centre and the Collins Square development in Melbourne. Walker bought the island on a whim in 2011 with the goal of spending A$10 million to start a luxury resort. He called it Kokomo – as he has all his boats, from dinghies to yachts – given his personal af-

fection for the word and not in connection with the Beach Boys’ tune.

“The last figure I heard was that he was up to A$160 million,” resort manager Martin Persson tells me as we lunch in the al fresco Beach Shack restaurant on baby octopus with coconut, papaya salsa and lemon balm with a main course of line-caught coral trout with pea puree and asparagus from the resort’s garden. The specialties prepared in the spacious open kitchen are often based on the staff fishermen’s fresh morning

bounty; 42 chefs staff the resort’s three eateries and private residences, and create custom meals in the villas.

Walker is on a mission to make Kokomo Fiji’s top resort and it’s one of the South Pacific’s most expensive, plus a member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World. Guests arrive on his helicopter or seaplane and are pampered in one of the 21 one-, two- and three-bedroom seaside bures on two beaches; a butler for every three bures. On the hilltop are the five- and six-bedroom

“I have my own infinity pool metres from the sandy beach, an indoor and outdoor shower, and a pool-sized bathtub .”

residences that come with a private chef, butler and nanny. Walker’s own personal villa can be rented and, eventually, the private residences will be sold or leased.

For a tiny island of 57 hectares, there’s a lot to do and activities are easy to arrange, either through my butler or via an iPad in my room that has everyone in the resort at my fingertips. I head to the state-of-the-art, air-conditioned gym, do some kayaking, and hike to the island’s summit for expansive views across the string of reefs. Then I stroll to the tranquil spa – set amid trees, surrounded by small bures for individual treatments – and let Marica use fragrant Sodashi aromatherapy oil to massage away my jet-lag.

There are also bicycles, Hobie Cats, Lasers and stand-up paddleboards. Try waterskiing, wakeboarding or fishing; head to a remote island beach for a gourmet picnic; take a guided medicinal-plant walk or a glass-bottom boat tour. Go world-class scuba diving. For children there’s an innovative pirate ship-themed playground and a kids’ club alongside a large pool and pool bar/restaurant.

From top: One of the island's private hilltop residences; fine dining Fiji-style.

Opposite page from top: Take a swing on a hidden beach; traditional style meets modern luxe.

Kokomo will be a game-changer for the largely overlooked Kadavu Island Group that, until now, had primarily been a magnet for scuba divers. They would stay in a handful of mom-and-pop style resorts on Kadavu and Ono islands to explore the Great Astrolabe Reef, the world’s fourth biggest.

I’m here for the diving too and make my way along Kokomo’s shell-strewn beach to the PADI five-star dive facility where Luke

Caldwell, Walker’s yacht captain and overseer of the dive centre, takes me on two spectacular dives just minutes offshore. We see white and black-tipped sharks, eagle rays and a stunning array of fish life and coral including Fiji’s famed yellow and white soft corals. We spot dolphins on the trip back. At certain times of the year there are humpback whales nearby and magical manta rays to dive with.

The resort’s interior is elegant yet informal with the occasional stylish Fijian art accent. Hardwood furniture was sourced from Mel Gibson’s Mago Island cinnamon trees. It’s calmingly wicker, white and beige throughout, but highlighted with stunning blasts of indigo, magenta, turquoise, yellow and chartreuse in the form of abstract paintings; some as big as the main lodge’s 6.9 x 2-metre contemporary mural. All are created by Australian artistin-residence, Chris Kenyon, whose work Walker has been collecting for years. “I came here in June 2016 for a commission of 67 paintings. I’m still here and we’re up to 225,” Kenyon laughs. “Lang keeps finding walls!”

Kenyon is also an architect and was set designer for the first two Mad Max movies so it made sense that Walker asked him to design a “fish shack” restaurant at the end of a wooden walkway around a cliff, just away from the main resort. Using recycled fish netting and maritime relics collected from ship-stripping yards, he crafted the character (and pun) rich Walker ‘da Plank where chefs serve creative takes on Asian street food and Fijian cuisine. It’s a delightfully casual venue where I spend my evenings nibbling sushi, wrapping roasted duck in lettuce leaves, dipping pork belly sate into a spicy sauce and sipping Fiji Bitter to the ukulele rhythm of a local band as the sun sets.

l STAY HERE

Seaside bures start from US$1,995 (about A$2,645) per night. Rates for the hilltop residences start from US$12,000 (about A$15,905) per night. kokomoislandfiji.com

MARGO PFEIFF

NIKKI TO

“Kokomo will be a game-changer for the largely overlooked Kadavu Island Group that, until now, had primarily been a magnet for scuba divers.”

LUXURY the art of

YOU’D EXPECT EXQUISITE STYLE FROM ACCOMMODATIONS DESIGNED BY WORLD-CLASS ARCHITECTS. AS KATIE MILTON WRITES, YOU CAN EXPECT THAT AND PLENTY MORE FROM SWITZERLAND’S 7132.

For more than 100 years people have travelled to the small Swiss mountain village of Vals to soak in the St Peter’s natural thermal springs. Perched 1,250 metres above sea level, the highly mineralised waters steam at 30°C and have been the site of spa hotels since they were first tapped in 1891.

In 1983 architect Peter Zumthor was commissioned by the municipality of Vals to design a new spa complex. Using raw concrete and 60,000 slabs of local Valser quartzite as his building materials, and the mountainous landscape as his framework, Zumthor constructed a quarry-like bathhouse half buried into the hillside.

Executed in textured blue-grey stone and minimalist architecture, Therme Vals has since been renamed 7132 Thermal Baths and is now a core element of the 7132 complex. Named for Vals’ postcode, the complex comprises Zumthor’s thermal baths, a five-star hotel and 7132 House of Architects.

The striking 7132 Hotel entrance

STAY HERE DESIGN HOTEL_ SWITZERLAND

7132 Thermal Baths

Fusing architecture, design and gastronomy, 7132 Hotel is set to re-open on 8 July with new private Spa Deluxe Rooms and Spa Suites finished with gold-and-white accents and in-room steam baths. Japanese architect Kengo Kuma has designed the three penthouse suites, which boast spectacular mountain-facing views and include helicopter transfers.

The adjacent 7132 House of Architects is a collection of distinctive suites designed by four prominent architects. Tadao Ando’s minimalist suites pay homage to the understated beauty of Japanese teahouses; Kengo Kuma’s oak cocoon rooms make use of curved ceilings and Swiss oak panels; and Peter Zumthor’s moody design features stucco lustro, a plasterwork technique of the Italian Renaissance. A freestanding glass shower acts as the focal point of American architect Thom Mayne’s two suites; one panelled from floor to ceiling with indigenous wood and another entirely clad with Valser quartzite.

This carefully considered design feeds into the 7132 gastronomy concept, underlined by “prime ingredients, quality-oriented cuisine and personal service”, according to the brand. There are four on-site restaurants – 7132 Silver, 7132 Red, 7132 Blue and 7132 Dapapa –and each offers guests a signature experience particular to a different time of day. Most notable is 7132 Silver, a fine-dining restaurant headed by Michelin two-star chef Sven Wassmer who serves up locally foraged ingredients in a nine- or 12-course degustation.

l STAY HERE

Rates start from CHF300 (about A$400) per night, single occupancy, for a suite in the 7132 House of Architects. Twin share rates start from CHF400 (about A$534). 7132.com/en

See more images from this story at luxurytravelmag.com.au

Above: A Japanese-inspired Penthouse Suite designed by Kengo Kuma in 7132 Hotel.

Below from left: Tinted glass shower in a Thom Mayne-designed suite in the 7132 House of Architects; dishes in the 7132 Silver restaurant.

‘Art de Vivre’

BAREFOOT

TURQUOISE WATERS AND NON-STOP SUNSHINE ARE THE HALLMARKS OF TORI DANCE ’S VISIT TO THE MALDIVES’ NEW JEWEL, THE HURAWALHI ISLAND RESORT.

‘No news, no shoes’ is the mantra of the Maldives and I realise it’s taken seriously when even the pilot waiting to whisk us off to Hurawalhi

Island Resort is abiding by the barefoot rule.

The 40-minute seaplane flight from Male passes in a flash, our heads glued to the window throughout, taking in the islands below us. As we begin our descent, we catch our first glimpse of the atoll we are about to call home, for a few days at least. We clamber out of the plane and onto a waiting speedboat. Minutes later we are drinking champagne, adjusting our watches to island time and being shown to our villa.

The luxury adults-only resort in the Lhaviyani Atoll, which opened in December, is a mix of beachside and overwater villas that fan around the palm-fringed island and down a wooden jetty. Inside the villa, sliding doors open directly onto our sun-soaked terrace. Even the shower door slides open onto the private deck so you can marvel at white sands and cobalt ocean ahead.

I prefer to think of myself as an intrepid traveller with a voracious appetite for local culture and custom, so I thought I might get a little bored and fidgety at an island resort.

How wrong I was. Our days at the Hurawalhi are packed; a few short steps from our villa and we’re snorkelling the most spectacular house reef mesmerised by passing parrotfish, bright yellow angelfish and spiky zebra-striped lionfish. We spot a pregnant manta ray and report our sighting back to the resort’s resident marine biologist who documents the activity of the 400-or-so mantas regularly spotted around the atoll.

When we’re not sailing, paddleboarding, practicing yoga on the jetty or zipping round the island on our bikes, we’re being spoiled in the Hurawalhi’s other-worldly spa. The glass-bottomed floor at the overwater Duniye Spa means even lying face down on the massage table is an opportunity to get to know the marine life a little better. We are so relaxed by the end of our hot stone massage we virtually float back to our villa to dress for dinner.

There are three restaurants on the island so we undertake the important task of sampling them all. Canneli is the main buffet-style restaurant; live cooking stations offer fresh dishes from every corner of the globe and the service is impeccable. We dine on the oceanfront in the exotic company of crabs scuttling across the sand, geckos sneaking along the deck and baby sharks swimming below our table.

A la carte restaurant Aquarium sits at the end of a jetty surrounded by staggering sea views

on all sides and serving up fresh sushi, seafood and Teppanyaki. However, it’s precisely 5.8 metres beneath Aquarium that the showstopper lies; the world’s largest and deepest undersea restaurant. On our last night in paradise we take the 41 steps down a spiral staircase for the unequivocal highlight of the trip, an exquisite seven-course tasting menu surrounded by fish of every colour, size and shape imaginable. Aptly named, 5.8 Undersea Restaurant must be one of the word’s most romantic restaurants but we barely look at one another, entranced instead by Nemo and his pals on the other side of the glass.

On Hurawalhi the staff are attentive and always smiling. In fact, they seem as happy to be working at the resort as we are to be staying here. Back to the jetty we go, ushered onto a seaplane to farewell shouts of ‘see you next time.’ I hope so, I really do. There’s not much I wouldn’t give to go back to Hurawalhi – to no news and no shoes.

l STAY HERE

Rates start from US$413 (about A$550) including breakfast during low season . Peak season rates start from US$1,108 (about A$1,475). hurawalhi.com

Above: 5.8 Undersea Restaurant at Hurawalhi. Below: Hurawalhi's seaplane; a dish at Aquarium Restaurant.

Opposite page: Overwater villa with solar panels over the walkway.

“We dine on the oceanfront in the exotic company of crabs scuttling across the sand, geckos sneaking along the deck and baby sharks swimming below our table.”

CAPE TOWN’S CROWN JEWEL

Housed in the grain elevator portion of the silo building originally constructed in 1924, the 28-room hotel has been transformed by British architect Thomas Heatherwick. Pillowed glass windows have been incorporated into the original architecture of the upper floors, a design feature that blends contemporary elements and the building’s industrial past.

Occupying the entire 10th floor, the 211-square metre, one-bed-

room Penthouse offers spectacular views of Table Mountain and the Cape Town cityscape. A mix of contemporary and classic elements like bold South African artworks and handmade Egyptian chandeliers have been incorporated into the suite’s design, to contrast with the existing industrial architecture.

Featuring a 10-seat dining room, private cinema and 24-square metre balcony, the suite can comfortably double as an entertainment

space. There is also a study, private spa treatment room, his and hers changing rooms, and a magnificent bathroom featuring a freestanding plunge bath.

Rates for the Penthouse start from R75,000 (about A$7,575) per night and are inclusive of breakfast, select mini-bar beverages, sparkling wine, parking and entry to the on-site Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa, slated to open in September. theroyalportfolio.com/the-silo

Set on Cape Town’s historic V&A Waterfront, The Royal Portfolio’s newly opened Silo Hotel is South Africa’s most anticipated luxury hotel opening in years.

There’s been a hotel bearing the name Wentworth in Sydney, in one form or another, for more than 160 years. In that time, it has risen from a boarding house owned by early colonial explorer, author, politician and all-round icon William Charles Wentworth to the first five-star hotel in the city. The current incarnation, Sofitel Sydney Wentworth, recently celebrated its 50th anniversary, having first opened its doors on December 14, 1966. Since then it’s been the hotel of choice for princesses, politicians, pop stars and even the Pope.

SOFITEL SYDNEY WENTWORTH

Reviewed by Lucy Jones

Locale

Planted firmly in Sydney’s financial district, the streets around the Sofitel can seem rather quiet (especially after dark). But thanks to the city’s burgeoning small-bar scene, there are actually a number of cosy establishments dotted through the surrounding streets. The tricky part is finding them, so keep en eye out for hidden doorways. The hotel is also within walking distance of Circular Quay, the Botanic Gardens and the luxury shopping strip of Castlereagh Street.

From top: It’s always time for French champagne; muted tones mean classic luxury; high tea for the annual Archibald Prize.

SOFITEL SYDNEY

Look and feel

The building itself is something of a Sydney icon. When it was first built it was a classic symbol of the jet age; sleek, modern and innovative. It’s still the largest brick building in the Southern Hemisphere and is built in a unique horseshoe shape, designed to ensure the rooms wouldn’t be too close to busy Phillip Street. Inside it’s all fawn marble, polished wood and brass accents, plus lots and lots of fresh flowers. The Sofitel is never going to be the coolest hotel in the city, but it doesn’t need to be. There’s a classic elegance about the property and it has been showing the new kids how it’s done for half a century.

Eat in

The stylish Soiree bar off the lobby has a French apero-inspired menu of wine, cocktails and small plates. There are two

signature cocktails and, in the interest of journalistic integrity, I try both. Lola, a mix of vodka, St Germain, pomegranate and champagne, is the winner. Upstairs on level five, Garden Court is a breezy Europeanstyle bistro with a leafy outlook over the hotel’s raised central garden and a seasonal French/ Australian menu. But my favourite thing about hotels is always room service, so I opt for a bowl of lobster bisque and warm crusty bread rolls, which I eat wearing my bathrobe in bed.

Treat yourself

There’s no swimming pool (and, as it’s a heritage hotel, they can’t install one) or spa, but guests can use the very good Elixr Health Club located on the ground floor.

Special touches

The Sofitel is proud to call itself Sydney’s ‘hotel for the arts’, so you’ll often find a special on-site exhibition or performance, or a partnership with events like Vivid and the Archibald Prize. The concierge will help you organise tickets to anything you fancy.

Sofitel properties are known for their lush floral displays and Sofitel Sydney Wentworth does not disappoint.

MANDARIN ORIENTAL BANGKOK GARDEN SUITE

Size: 80 square metres / Price: From THB41,500 (about A$1,600) per night / Reviewed by: Katie Milton

To commemorate the hotel’s 140th anniversary, the original Garden Wing underwent a complete renovation in 2016 with the two floors gutted and transformed into 12 spacious Garden Suites with enormous white marble bathrooms. Floor-to-ceiling windows in the lounge and bedroom frame the Chao Phraya River, and ornate details recur in the floral silk accents, gold framed oriental artworks and fresh orchids spread throughout the suite.

UPGRADE

Designed to host visiting royals and VIP guests, the Royal Suite spans 326 square metres and features private elevator access, its own fitness and spa facilities, and the most exquisite open-plan bathroom I have ever seen.

Locale

A grand colonial icon in the heart of Bangkok, the flagship Mandarin Oriental is set on the banks of the Chao Phraya River. A long-tail boat ride to the Grand Palace, Wat Arun and Bangkok’s bustling night markets, and a short walk to the city’s famous Skytrain, this five-star hotel is the perfect base from which to explore.

“ Built in 1896 the Mandarin Oriental (formerly The Oriental) was Thailand’s first luxury hotel. Named for the famous writers and poets who have stayed over its history is a collection of distinctive Authors’ Suites, such as the Joseph Conrad and James Michener, with designs inspired by their namesake.”

Look and feel

Outfitted in colonial-era traditional Thai pants and a Pith helmet, the doorman was the first hint of the hotel’s impeccable standards. Designed to embody the concept ‘one foot in the past, one in the future’, the hotel’s grandeur is spoken in the high ceilings, elaborate chandeliers and fresh flowers curated by the in-house floral team.

There are 324 rooms and 44 highend suites, and the foyer is always humming with a mix of business travellers, families and local guests.

Eat in

Treat yourself

Butler Service

Turn

Buffet breakfast at The Verandah is served riverside beneath green umbrellas. When the sun goes down, the Riverside Terrace serves an international barbeque buffet while French, Thai, Chinese, Seafood and Italian speciality restaurants are also on site. A stay at MO Bangkok isn’t complete without a cocktail at Bamboo Bar or high tea at the Authors’ Lounge; a newly restored glass-roofed garden cafe that has hosted numerous literary icons.

I woke up early on Saturday morning for the complimentary group yoga session and caught the MO long-tail boat that ferries guests to the hotel gym and spa on the other side of the river. Housed in a converted mansion, the award-winning spa offers a mix of Ayurvedic treatments, signature massages and beauty treatments.

Special touches

Renowned MO service included lemongrass and lime tea on arrival in my room, as well as an offer to unpack my luggage.

The Author’s Wing of the Mandarin Oriental Bangkok is inspired by famous literary icons who have stayed at the hotel.

The exquisite openplan bathroom in the top of the line Royal Suite.

ROSEWOOD MANSION ON TURTLE CREEK

Few things have survived Dallas’s tumultuous history, but Rosewood Mansion is one of them. More than a century has passed since the palatial private estate of a cotton baron was built along Turtle Creek Boulevard. Following a fire that destroyed large parts of the building, much of the structure was rebuilt during the early 1920s, with the owners taking inspiration largely from the

Renaissance architecture of Spain, Italy and France. Since then the mansion has passed through several owners, hosting exuberant society parties and guests such as Franklin D Roosevelt and Tennessee Williams, before oil heiress Caroline Rose Hunt transformed the manor into a boutique hotel and restaurant in 1980.

Locale

Rosewood Mansion sits in the upscale Oak Lawn

neighbourhood, a vibrant and trendy area that has long been known as the heart of Dallas’s gay community. Mostly walkable and full of bars, restaurants and shops, the district is known for its community events and fun nights out, but is also home to quieter, upscale residential areas. Situated just north of the city’s energetic Arts District and five minutes from the downtown CBD, the hotel is still close enough to the

centre of town to take advantage of the shopping, dining and culture Dallas has to offer.

Look and feel

The mansion has managed to retain its palatial feel, with opulent outdoor spaces and stately interiors. Much of the pastel-coloured exterior looks like what you may find in Florence or Seville: an eclectic mix of Venetian balconies, Roman fountains, a terracotta-tiled roof and almost-Oriental mosaic patterns. The grand, dignified interiors are quite different – think hand-carved fireplaces, marble floors, oak desks and hanging chandeliers. The 143 rooms and suites are spacious and opulent, but are also quite modern following the hotel’s recent renovations.

Eat In

The renowned Mansion Restaurant has long been hailed as one of Dallas’s best fine dining restaurants, serving modern American cuisine

UPGRADE

Luxurious Terrace

Suites occupy the penthouse floor and each offers 125 square metres of space with a private kitchen for personal chefs and huge outdoor terraces perfect for entertaining.

SUITE

Free WiFi

24-hour reception and room service

Free Lexus sedan service (within an eight km radius)

Butler service

Complimentary newspapers

Valet parking (US$28/A$37 per night)

Turndown service

for more than 35 years. Come here for extravagant dishes such as venison with chestnut and gin, or Rouen duck with exotic spices, faro and kumquat. The outdoor Restaurant Terrace offers al fresco dining by the fire, while the Mansion Bar serves late-night bites with the ambience of a private club.

Treat Yourself

Recline on a sun lounge by the opulent outdoor pool with a cocktail in the warmer months, or relax with an hour-long massage. A fitness centre with massage, steam and sauna rooms is open daily.

Special Touches

If you wish to have friends visit the hotel, staff will happily arrange private drinks on the terrace along with a dinner reservation. Hand-carved fireplaces feature throughout.

MANDARIN ORIENTAL NEW YORK

PREMIER CENTRAL PARK VIEW SUITE

Size: 74sqm / Price: from US$2,695 (about A$3,580) per night / Reviewed by: Kelly Allen

With jawdropping views of the famous Manhattan skyline and Central Park, the Premier Central Park View Suite certainly lives up to its name. Wraparound floor-to-ceiling windows aid the outlook. The suite is a contemporary New York design with curved furnishings in jewel tones and sleek greys. There’s a large king bedroom, separate lounge and dining area, a marble master bath with walk in shower and separate bathtub, plus a guest powder room.

UPGRADE

The 246-square metre Presidential Suite is a lush retreat decked out in rich chocolate browns, deep red and brushed gold. It’s all about opulence with the walls of the master bedroom covered in silk, honey onyx marble in the bathroom and a woodpanelled study.

Locale

Located on the very top of the Time Warner building in Midtown, the hotel borders southwest Central Park and is an easy walk to Fifth Avenue, Broadway and the Lincoln Center. It’s a great location for catching a Broadway

Lunch with a view at Asiate. Opposite page from left: Take a dip in the lap pool; sleek style in the Premier Central Park View Suite.

show or enjoying the buzz of Times Square. The Time Warner Center below the hotel is made up of numerous luxury boutiques and restaurants.

Look and feel

A fusion of modern Oriental and classic New York style decorates the 200-plus rooms over 20 floors. Entering the 35th floor lobby, the floors are paved with glossy black granite and a large freeform crystal light sculpture takes centre stage. Admire the gilded gold ceilings and a view over Manhattan from The

Lobby Lounge where you might enjoy a cocktail and a Wagyu beef slider.

Eat in

The main restaurant is Asiate, which is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Asiate boasts panoramic views and an incredible tree sculpture that hangs from the ceiling. Executive chef Christian Pratsch uses award-winning local ingredients like meltin-your-mouth Hudson Valley foie gras in his six-course chef’s tasting menu. For something lighter, the Lobby Lounge

is open all day and serves a traditional afternoon tea.

Treat yourself

The spa has an impressive range of facilities including vitality pools and an amethyst crystal steam room. The 23-metre lap pool has incredible views over the Hudson River, and there’s a fitness centre flooded with natural light plus private yoga classes. Make the most of the location and get one of the hotel’s personal trainers to take you on a jog through Central Park right next door. Book into one of the private Oriental-style

Spa Suites – the first of their kind in the city – for a few hours of indulgence with a dual massage bed, relaxation bed, elevated bath and fireplace.

Special touches

Mandarin Oriental is consistently one of the best hotels for customer service, no matter where you are in the world. From greeting you by name, to a welcome cup of tea or exotic fruit bowl in your room, they always go the extra mile. The hotel has a selection of bedtime reading books that you are welcome to take home with you.

PREMIER CENTRAL PARK VIEW SUITE

Free WiFi

Complimentary newspaper (The New York Times)

24-hour reception and room service

Turn down service

FOUR SEASONS DOWNTOWN NEW YORK

HUDSON SUITE

Size: 84sqm / Price: On request / Reviewed by: Kelly Allen

In a stylish Hudson Suite, you’ll feel like you’re in your own slick New York pad. Four Seasons says they are inspired by the cuttingedge design of Batman’s own Gotham City, but I found the palette of soft neutrals and cool blues a little more relaxing. There’s no shortage of space with a dining table for four, private bar, lounge room and two bathrooms, including a spa-like master with a free-standing tub.

UPGRADE

The top-of-the-line Royal Suite takes up half of the hotel’s 24th floor with a footprint of 223 square metres. There’s dining for 10, a media room, art installation in the private foyer and a steam shower.

Locale

The second Four Seasons property in the city, the hotel is in Downtown Manhattan, close to the Financial District. It’s one of the first luxury properties to open here and is part of the incredible rebirth of the area over the past 15 years. While it is still quieter than Midtown, especially after 5pm, it’s now buzzing with new activity, and there are plenty of quaint bars and speakeasies nearby,

THE HUDSON SUITE

Free WiFi

particularly in the lively Meatpacking District and Tribeca. The 9/11 Memorial, Highline and Brooklyn Bridge are only a couple of blocks away.

Look and feel

The hotel opened late last year in Downtown’s tallest tower, 30 Park Place, and everything is suitably grand and shiny. Impressive wrought iron, timber and glass doors welcome you to the hotel and inside you’ll find cream marble floors with gold accents, sleek timber walls, and modern lines with a cool downtown vibe.

Eat in Breakfast in bed! Room service was a special treat with a wonderfully indulgent menu including an antioxidant smoothie,

acai bowl, ancient grain porridge, lemon ricotta pancakes and the best hot chocolate I have ever tasted. Delivered on a linen-covered table with a beautiful setting and served by a friendly waiter, it was a meal to remember.

Award-winning steak restaurant CUT, Wolfgang Puck’s first New York City opening, serves breakfast, lunch and dinner on the ground level of the hotel. The dinner menu features every kind of steak you can imagine from Japanese pure Wagyu ordered by weight to grass fed Angus from upstate New York. It’s a carnivore’s dream.

Treat yourself

The urban chic Spa at Four Seasons has partnered with Dr

Burgener Switzerland and Omorovicza Cosmetics to provide a customised spa experience. There’s a 23-metre lap pool bathed in natural light, and surrounded by plenty of plush lounges, plus a high-tech gym offering everything from yoga to TRX Suspension Training. Decompress with a stint in the steam room.

Special touches

Having stayed at several Four Seasons hotels, I know I can expect the best service and this Downtown property didn’t disappoint. Upon check in, Tyrone was incredibly helpful when there was a slight mix up in my reservation – he sorted it out immediately. He also greeted me by name and asked about my day each time I walked by.

Above: Sleek furniture and artwork in the living area. Top right: Enjoy breakfast in the king size bed.

MEDICINE the best

NO MATTER WHAT AILS YOU, KOH SAMUI WELLNESS RETREAT KAMALAYA IS THE TONIC. BY KATIE MILTON .

Inotice the tightness in my left leg as I follow Bernie up the stone steps leading to the private treatment rooms nestled into the hillside. Long flights seem to have that effect on me. Bernie leads me into a modest air-conditioned room, which, like all of Kamalaya, has sprawling ocean views, and we talk through my health history before he begins a physical exam. Slowly he inspects my body, pausing to feel my kidneys, liver, heart and hands. “Your feet are freezing and your head is hot, we have to get you the right way up,” he says.

I tense as he grabs his needles, but Bernie reassures me that I won’t feel a thing and he proceeds to stick them at various acupuncture points. I relax as he attaches clusters of moxa (dried mugwort) to the tips of the needles and sets them alight, the warmth of the small fire soothing on my back. I ask Bernie what he is doing: “Opening your veins,” he replies.

Built into a steep hillside that descends onto a small, remote beach in Koh Samui, Kamalaya is a luxury wellness retreat that draws on a combination of Oriental and Western healing practices to improve the wellbeing of guests. Its founders, Karina and John Stewart, met at a Himalayan ashram, where John was living under the tutelage of a yogi master and Karina was visiting for a meditation retreat. The two eventually married and shared a dream of building a sanctuary where they could combine their knowledge of spiritual and Asian healing traditions to help others.

Designed by Australian-born architect Robert Powell, Kamalaya abides by the concept “simple, tropical, modern”. With the monks cave at its centre and a mysterious sense of peace emanating from the grounds, the journey guests take at Kamalaya is a personal one. Be it a reprieve from a stressful job or an effort to break unhealthy patterns – you don’t leave with the same mindset you arrived with.

For me, it was about coming to terms with a recent lymphedema diagnosis and to learn how diet and specific treatments might help me manage the chronic condition that causes excess fluid retention in my left leg.

My customised treatment plan (an option available to all Kamalaya guests) is a combi-

nation of the standard Introduction to Detox program, specific massage and treatment therapies, and an additional naturopath session. They are integrated with the objective of resetting my body and encouraging natural lymph flow.

I am staying in a hilltop Deluxe Superior Suite. At 65 square metres, the room is spacious and combines a neutral colour scheme with wooden finishes, brass details and oriental artworks. I can see the ocean from my shower, and the view is even better from the outdoor balcony shrouded with hanging purple flowers and greenery.

These suites are the newest accommodations at the resort, completed in 2015 along with the showcase 25-metre lap pool and fitness centre. This is as large as Kamalaya will get. All of the resort's 75 rooms are booked, but I never pass more than 10 people when I am wandering the grounds.

I fall into my routine quickly. Some mornings I go to meditation in the outdoor pavilion and follow this with a vinyasa yoga class in the Yantra Hall. With no more than five people practicing (guests can also have private sessions), the classes lack the energy of my Sydney studio, but with views of the headland, it’s difficult to complain.

The range of green detox tags – outlining which foods are free of dairy, gluten, nuts, meat or added sugar – decide my daily meals. Detox muesli, goji berries and chia seeds with sunflower seed milk along with sweet potato and coconut bread, fresh tropical fruit and the specialty Kamalaya juices replace my usual selection of an omelette and coffee. I spend my lunches in a Thai bure sampling my way through the fresh and raw vegetable appetisers and wholesome mains like mung bean risotto and vegetable curry. I break

Be it a reprieve from a stressful job or an effort to break unhealthy patterns – you don’t leave with the same mindset you arrived with.

At Kamalaya, each treatment is rooted in philosophy and theory, and every special touch is more exceptional than the next. And, no matter why you are there, Kamalaya is whatever you need it to be.

my detox just once to sample the delicious chocolate cashew nut sorbet.

Before each treatment I head to the wellness sanctuary. While I wait to be collected, I instinctively reach for my phone but stop myself as I catch a glimpse of the placard on the table – a kind reminder that not all socially acceptable addictions are healthy. Electronic devices are to be left in guest rooms at Kamalaya.

Of all my treatments, I look forward to my appointments with Khun Plah the most. A lymph drainage therapy specialist, she listens for the rhythm and direction of my lymph flow and traces the flow through my body, applying

KAMALAYA'S RAW CHOCOLATE CAKE

INGREDIENTS

Walnut base

500g walnuts

2 tbs cocoa powder

1 tbs flax seeds

½ tsp cinnamon powder

¼ tsp salt

1 tsp vanilla extract

16 pitted dates

1 orange, zest and juice

Chocolate frosting

280g organic honey

630g avocado (6 pcs)

24g vanilla extract

120g cocoa powder

Left: Raw vegetable rice paper rolls. Below: The 25-metre lap pool.

more pressure at my lower lymph glands in an attempt to flush the stagnant fluid through alternate pathways.

“This is so interesting for me,” she says. “I can actually feel the trapped fluid.” I just lie there dumbfounded.

Chinese medicine holds the philosophy that the stomach and intestines form the body’s second brain. As the main site for the storage and processing of nutrition and emotions, the abdomen is prone to blockages. Be it tensions, anxieties or physical congestion, when the abdomen is blocked it constricts the flow of chi. This, in turn, weakens the digestive system, affecting

one’s moods and energy levels.

The Chi Nei Tsang is a traditional massage practiced to release such tensions. I have three over the course of my stay and each hour-long session of colon massage and kneading was more uncomfortable than the next. By the fourth day though, I feel lighter, more energetic, less anxious, and have stopped constantly reaching for my phone.

At Kamalaya, each treatment is rooted in philosophy and theory, and every special touch is more exceptional than the next. And, no matter why you are there, Kamalaya is whatever you need it to be.

l STAY HERE

Rates at starts from THB54,576 (about $A2,112) for the three-night Relax & Renew package. Rates are inclusive of three Kamalaya Healthy or Detox Cuisine meals per day, all beverages excluding imported drinks and alcohol, round-trip transfers from Samui Airport, Wellness Consultation, and the use of fitness and wellness facilities.

l GETTING THERE

Thai Airways flies non-stop from Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane and Perth to Bangkok daily, with connections at Bangkok Suvarnabhumi to Koh Samui. Return business class airfares start from A$3,889.

PREPARATION

Combine all the ingredients for the base and grind in a food processor. Not too fine. Place in a cake tin and chill in the fridge for at least 2 hours. Blend all the ingredients

for the frosting in a liquidiser or blender until smooth. Pour over the walnut base and spread evenly. Leave to set in the fridge overnight. Best served with date and coconut ice cream.

KATIE MILTON

KATIE MILTON

See more on this story at luxurytravelmag.com.au

AUSTRALIA’S FIRST FINE FRAGRANCE FOR MEN AND WOMEN

OVER HEAD

CRAIG TANSLEY

DISCOVERS

THINGS CAN GET A LITTLE SOGGY ON A STAND-UP PADDLEBOARD YOGA RETREAT IN THE COOK ISLANDS.

he sun is only just appearing above endless Pacific on the other side of the reef; but here, on this warm and clear lagoon, I’m cocooned within my own tiny micro-world. On each side of where I’m paddling, uninhabited motu (tiny islets) lie in the still water, their tiny bays of white sandy beach fringed by row after row of coconut trees. It is about as idyllic a scene as you could imagine, and so when Charlotte Piho asks me to close my eyes, I refuse. Instead, with eyes wide open, I begin my quest for enlightenment, Cook Islands-style.

Once a business executive working in the fickle world of high fashion, Piho now deals exclusively in swimwear. A Cook Islander by birth, she gave her old life away to run stand-up paddleboard (SUP) yoga retreats in her childhood island home.

I too grew up in the Cook Islands, and in the decades since, I’ve done everything in the lagoons and sea here. I’ve surfed, sailed, kayaked and swam. I’ve fished, dived and snorkelled. But I never expected to float on a lagoon as I perform yoga across a surface that moves as I do, and topples when I overbalance.

Now I’ve got a week to do it on a SUP yoga retreat. We begin the retreat in the sheltered waters of Muri Lagoon, on Rarotonga’s east coast. Later in the week, we’ll fly 45 minutes across the Pacific to Aitutaki, whose gigantic lagoon is considered one of the world’s finest.

Piho’s retreats aren’t just about yoga. Along with her Polynesian father Tuhe, she introduces guests to every aspect of Polynesian life. Tuhe climbs trees to bring us nui (coconut

water) after each yoga session. When he’s not picking nuts, he’s gathering red pawpaws and slicing them up for us to eat.

Even if you consider yourself a yogi already, you may be in for a shock trying it on a SUP. On our first morning we paddle to the shallow waters beside one of Muri Lagoon’s tiny islets and secure ourselves close together using bags weighed down by sand on the end of our leg ropes.

We shift into position. The slow warm-up stretches are relatively simple, but it’s at the first downward dog pose that I understand how precarious my position is here. And when Piho asks us to raise our right legs high in the air behind us, I tumble into the lagoon beside me.

“Don’t worry about it,” Piho says. “Last time we had a total beginner and he was doing headstands on the board by the end of the week.” But I’m not fazed. After all, from where I’m treading water, I can look back on Rarotonga’s beautiful green, mountainous hinterland. By

“Piho's retreats aren't just about yoga. She introduces guests to every aspect of Polynesian life.”

Above: Charlotte's father Tuhe gathers fresh coconuts for the group after each session. Opposite page: The group pauses for a meditative moment on the water.

CRAIG TANSLEY

the end of the first hour-long session I’m beginning to feel more stable, though I can already feel the extra strain on my core.

While the retreat begins and ends in Rarotonga, the highlight is the three days we’ll spend striking yoga poses on Aitutaki’s gigantic lagoon. Only Bora Bora’s world-famous triangular lagoon can possibly top it for sheer star power, but its lagoon is straddled by hundreds of overwater bungalows, whereas Aitutaki’s is almost entirely devoid of development.

We reach the outer reaches of the lagoon by boat, arriving to a motu called One Foot Island, then paddle five minutes to a sand spit dubbed Heavenly. Here we have the entire lagoon to ourselves, bar the occasional local fisherman who comes in for a closer look. If there’s a prettier yoga studio on Earth I’d sure like to see it. The sun shines off the white sand of the spit and the water runs without a single ripple to the horizon; above us tiny white tropicbirds circle in a sky matched for

blue by the lagoon below.

Yoga is the focus of the retreat but there’s a lot more going on. One day we paddle the entire 18 kilometres from One Foot Island to Aitutaki, other days we hike across Rarotonga’s hinterland to a waterfall on the other side, or enjoy dinners and sunset drinks at bars right on the waterfront.

Piho offers accommodation with her retreats within her family home. Luxury travellers can opt to stay instead in Rarotonga’s best high-end hotels and resorts. I stay at Nautilus Resort. My villa is just five metres from Muri Lagoon, so I never have far to go to join the group (which is particularly handy at sunrise). I also stay in a luxury safari tent close to Piho’s family home at Ikurangi Eco Retreat, Rarotonga’s best new accommodation option. It faces the island’s inland mountains and has a private yoga tent for sessions overlooking a pawpaw patch if you want to try yoga back on land to feel more grounded.

THE RETREAT

Workout On Water offers week-long yoga retreats in the Cook Islands including accommodation, yoga sessions, most meals and transport (excluding flights) for A$1,450 per person, or without accommodation for A$900 per person. For dates or more information, visit workoutonwater.com

l STAY HERE

Stay in luxury on Rarotonga’s Muri Lagoon at Nautilus Resort. Garden villas are NZ$680 (about A$627) per night and beachfront villas are NZ$950 (about A$875) per night. nautilusresortrarotonga.com

Or book a deluxe safari tent at Ikurangi Eco Retreat, with prices from NZ$359 (about A$331) per night. ikurangi.com

See more images from this story at luxurytravelmag.com.au

“The slow warm-up stretches are relatively simple, but it’s at the first downward dog pose that I understand how precarious my position is here.”

HERE GOOD LIVING_ COOK ISLANDS

GOOD LIVING NEWS

BRAIN HEALTH ENHANCEMENT

Amatara Wellness Resort has partnered with Bangkok Hospital’s Brain Health Institute to produce a specialised brain health enhancement program aimed at Alzheimer’s prevention. Guests will spend two nights at the Brain Health Institute with a team of medical professionals who will guide them through a series of tests and medical treatments to assess their cognitive health. Among the tests will be a sleep disorder analysis, cognitive training with an institute psychologist and a brain nutrition session with an institute dietitian. Individual results are then integrated into each guest’s subsequent five-night program at the resort. amataraphuket.com

LEARNING CENTRE FOR PLANT-BASED CUISINE

Six Senses resort Evason Hua Hin has just opened Blue Lotus, a learning centre where guests will be able to undertake week-long, plant-based cooking classes. The school will offer two curriculums: Pure & Simple, which provides an introduction to plant-based cuisine; and Pure & Advanced, featuring more complex techniques and recipes as well as mentoring for more experienced chefs. sixsenses.com/evason-resorts/hua-hin/destination

NEW BYRON HEALTH RETREATS

Luxury rainforest resort The Byron at Byron has announced two new specialised health retreats for 2017. Those looking to improve their physical wellness can opt for the Barre Body Wellness Retreat, a two-day body wellness mini-break that combines yoga, four sessions with Barre Body founder Emma Seibold, and remedial massage. The five-night Surfing Retreat is run by two of Australia’s most experienced female surf coaches, Jenny Boggis and Serena Adams, and will help

beginners learn the fundamentals or help experienced surfers improve their skills. thebyronatbyron.com.au

HEALTH-CENTRIC LUX* WORKSHOPS

SOUND SOUL for the

Lucy Jones gives sound therapy a test run onboard Seabourn Encore and uncovers an immersive experience.

WHAT IS IT?

From August to October, LUX* Resorts and Hotels will host a schedule of expert-led wellness workshops at their Mauritius and Maldives properties. Options include a Tibetan Sound Healing session, a Kombucha and health-tonicmaking masterclass, and a DIY Chinese Medicine Therapies lesson, where guests will learn the techniques of cupping and scraping that can be used to aid in the relief of body aches and colds and flus. luxresorts.com

ALTERNATIVE YOGA AT ALILA BALI

Tired of your gravity heavy yoga sessions? Alila resorts in Bali has launched five new yoga experiences. At Alila Villas Uluwatu guests can try stand-up paddleboard yoga sessions in the resort’s infinity pool or be suspended in a fabric hammock for aerial

yoga. Alila Manggis will host Zen Harmony Underwater Yoga sessions, where guests use scuba equipment to enable underwater yoga poses helping increase lung capacity and reduce muscle tension. At Alila Ubud, guests can improve physical and emotional health

through Laughter Yoga, which combines meditation, postures, breathing, smiling and laughing. Guests staying at Alila Seminyak can practice Nauli Yoga, a cleansing exercise that uses sideto-side rolling of the abdominal muscles to cleanse the internal organs. alilahotels.com

Similar to Tibetan singing bowls, which have been used by Buddhist monks since the 10th century, crystal sound bowls are becoming increasingly popular for meditation and spa treatments. The crystal bowls emit binaural beats, which are said to reduce anxiety, bring about a deep meditative state and release stagnant energy. Some practitioners even claim that listening to the bowls can help repair essential systems, right down to damaged DNA.

THE TREATMENT

The spa program on Seabourn Encore has been created by Dr Andrew Weil and sound baths are just one of a new range of alternative therapies on offer. Crystal bowls of different sizes are placed around the room and on the massage table with me, where I’m lying on a special amethyst bio-mat. The therapist begins to ‘play’ the bowls with a suede-covered paddle, creating an eerie singing sound. At first, I don’t feel anything and my mind begins to wander. But as the noise builds, I’m suddenly able to feel the power of the sound rather than just hear it. The whole room seems to hum and the sound vibrates through my body in a way that’s incredibly hypnotic. When it’s finished, I can’t quite tell if I’ve been asleep or awake. I’m not sure if my DNA has been healed as such, but I definitely leave the room feeling pleasantly warm and fuzzy.

HOW MUCH?

A sound bath is available as a 20-minute add-on to any massage for US$25 (about A$33) or as a 50-minute standalone healing treatment for US$99 (about A$131).

chef’� guide to

ABU DHABI

veteran of luxury hotel kitchens from London to the Caribbean and the Seychelles, Erwan Stadler is now executive sous chef at the newly opened Bab Al Qasr Hotel in Abu Dhabi. Billed as “the ultimate luxury hotel”, the glittering property promises guests a taste of authentic Arabian hospitality in the Middle East’s new capital of cool. Stadler takes us through his 10 favourite places to dine in Abu Dhabi

TRAVEL& CULINARY TRAVELS_ ABU DHABI

SONTAYA

THE ST. REGIS SAADIYAT ISLAND RESORT

Asian fusion meets fine dining. The views and location can’t be beat! I usually sit outside when the weather allows it – it is so peaceful and serene. The service is excellent.

BRASSERIE ANGÉLIQUE

JUMEIRAH AT ETIHAD TOWERS

Being French, this is the best place for me to feel at home, dining on Oliver Jackson’s beef tartare and the rack of lamb. Brasserie Angélique serves classy French food with its myriad flavours.

FLOOKA

EASTERN MANGROVES PROMENADE

My favourite place to go for a lively dinner; the place is always full! The food is great and the service very good. Try the daily catch cooked the way you want. A great place to go with a bunch of friends.

55&5TH, THE GRILL

THE ST. REGIS SAADIYAT ISLAND RESORT

You can drink good wine from their extensive wine list and enjoy the magic of the bartender with an amazing cocktail. When I am dying for a good cut of meat, this is my destination and I am never disappointed.

HAKKASAN

EMIRATES PALACE

Outstanding Chinese fusion cuisine prepared in a modern, mouth-watering style by chef Stefan Trepp. The food is delicious and atmosphere amazing. If you love a cocktail this is your place.

ZUMA

GALLERIA MALL

I am a big fan of whisky, so I can say you must try their Japanese whisky. The sushi and wagyu beef are the best in town. Food is served to share, which makes for a great atmosphere.

AVASA

THE ST. REGIS SAADIYAT ISLAND RESORT

I highly recommend this venue for excellent Indian food. The food and staff are very good, but order wisely as the portions are very big!

VILLA TOSCANA

THE ST. REGIS ABU DHABI Chef Thomas Pendarovski will take you on a pure Italian journey. I like to go with my wife for a romantic dinner, but it’s a great choice for brunch, á la carte or simply a pizza, and they also have a beautiful wine cellar.

BYBLOS SUR MER

INTERCONTINENTAL

ABU DHABI

A place to go to enjoy the sunset with great Lebanese food. One of the best views in Abu Dhabi.

LIMO RESTAURANT

BAB AL QASR HOTEL

Of course, I must include one of our own restaurants. The first pure Peruvian restaurant in the capital, Limo brings you to a different level of the South American cuisine than you are probably used to. Chef Luis and his team are doing wonders with the dishes on the menu. The flavours are just amazing and take you to a different world. I recommend you try the ceviche and the beef anticucho.

SONTAYA

VILLA TOSCANA

BYBLOS SUR MER

BAR AT BRASSERIE ANGÉLIQUE

experience the world by bike

TRUFFLE TRAIL

KEREN LAVELLE TURNS HUNTER AND GATHERER, AND GETS A TASTE FOR ONE OF ITALY’S MOST PRIZED CULINARY TREASURES.

If it’s gastronomic bliss you’re after, you could do a whole lot worse than to throw a dart at a map of Italy and blindly follow its lead. The country is bursting with unforgettable culinary experiences and still, Piedmont in northern Italy manages to stand out. Blessed with a strong local food culture, Piedmont is where the ‘slow food’ movement started just over 30 years ago. No surprise then, that the local food is a focus of serious enjoyment.

Every town and village seems to host a festival around food – I even notice banners for a tripe festival – but the biggest is the white truffle festival held in Alba, which runs for two months in autumn. While black truffles may be found in many places, edible white truffles – ‘trifola d’Alba Madonna’ – are rare, and are most successfully found in this region. They fetch around €3,000 (more than A$4,200) per kilo.

Hedonistic Hiking’s eight-day Jewels of Piedmont tour, led by co-owner Jackie Parsons, must be the most delightful way to get to know the region’s food culture. Our small group works up an appetite by going on private tours of castles, churches and museums, walking through chestnut forests and vineyards, and tackling the occasional mountain hike. Our reward for this exertion is indulgence in freshly prepared picnics and visits to specialist regional restaurants, not to mention judicious sampling of the great wines of this district. All of our food and wine is explained to us by Cinzia Long, a locally born, specialist food guide.

We try many Piedmontese specialities such as peperoni di Cuneo (a local yellow capsicum) – in a salad as well as stuffed with tuna and served with an anchovy sauce; Piedmontese-style steak tartare ‘battuta al coltello’ (cut with a knife); and some of the scores of local cheeses, such as tomino, a fresh cheese with herbs.

It’s the right season for white truffles, and we go on a hunt for them with the help of trifolau (professional truffle hunter) Marco Varaldo and his truffle dog Rocky. Jackie translates as Marco explains what truffles are (the fruiting bodies of underground fungi), where they grow (in forests of chestnut, oak, beech, poplar, willow and hazelnut), and the different varieties. He introduces Rocky, descended from a long line of truffle dogs, but who still required months of training.

Above: Local wildlife at restored farmhouse hotel Antico Podere Propano.

Below: Walking through chestnut forests.

Opposite: Truffle hunter Marco Varaldo and his specially trained truffle dog, Rocky.

Marco manages our expectations downwards; there’s been a drought, and truffles need rain. There are other complications, he says: success depends partly on the moon cycle. We are in the first quarter but our chances would be better when it’s a waning moon.

Uncertain as to how this will go, we follow Marco and Rocky past vineyards and into the forest in the twilight. There is a tension these days between those who want land to grow grapes, especially the valuable varietals Barolo and its ‘Little Brother’ Barbaresco, and others who want the land left wild, so its forests may keep producing truffles.

Before too long, Rocky’s snuffling has brought results, and he alternates between barking and digging furiously. He’s allowed to dig up black truffles – and that’s what he’s found. Suddenly, there’s an interruption – the owner of the forest land and his dog, a very enthusiastic young pup, appear. Both men tell the other they haven’t found any truffles. We all try to keep a straight face.

Before too long, Rocky’s snuffling has brought results, and he alternates between barking and digging furiously. He’s allowed to dig up black truffles – and that’s what he’s found.

After the owner leaves, it’s not long before Rocky starts barking again, and furiously wagging his docked tail. But this time, he puts his paw over the spot. Rocky has hit pay dirt: the valuable white truffle is below, to be carefully dug out by Marco. They find another one before night falls.

We take our truffles to a restaurant in the hilltop town of La Morra where we eat a variety of dishes, including tajarin con tartufo bianco –house-made egg tagliatelle, with our white truffles shaved directly over the dish, accompanied by a white wine from the ancient Nascetta grape and a 2009 Barbaresco.

The climax of our foodie tour comes the next day. We visit the truffle festival in Alba, and in the evening we tour the Castle of Grinzane Cavour, which houses a fabulous enoteca (wine shop), and a museum devoted to wine production and to the Castle’s famous inhabitant, Count Cavour, the statesman of Italian unification. The castle also has a Michelin-starred restaurant, Ristorante Al Castello, under chef Marc Lanteri where we feast on six-courses and sample some more regional wines.

Naturally, the standout dish is a Jerusalem artichoke velouté with an organic poached egg and shavings of white truffle – this delicate ‘cooking’ of the truffle brings out its earthy, musky flavours. It’s our last dinner together, and the first time I fully appreciate what all the fuss over truffles is about.

Above: The Langhe hills and vineyards at La Morra village.

Below: Piedmontese cheeses on display at Quat Taulin restaurant.

l DO THIS

Hedonistic Hiking's eight-day Jewels of Piedmont Tour is priced from €2,895 (about A$4,084) per person twin share. The tour begins and ends in Turin with upcoming departures on 23 June and 25 October 2017 and 22 June and 19 October 2018. hedonistichiking.com.au

l RECOMMENDED READING

THE NAME OF THE ROSE by Umberto Eco

The year is 1327. Franciscans in a wealthy Italian abbey are suspected of heresy and Brother William of Baskerville arrives to investigate. When his delicate mission is suddenly overshadowed by seven bizarre deaths, Brother William turns detective. He collects evidence, deciphers secret symbols and coded manuscripts, and digs into the eerie labyrinth of the abbey where extraordinary things are happening under the cover of night. A spectacular popular and critical success, The Name of the Rose is not only a narrative of a murder investigation but an astonishing chronicle of the Middle Ages.

TRAVEL& CULINARY TRAVELS_ PIEDMONT ITALY

STREETS takin’ it to the

l book STREET

FOOD ASIA

BY LUKE NGUYEN

HARDIE GRANT BOOKS RRP A$60

These recipes are an edited extract from Street Food Asia by Luke Nguyen published by Hardie Grant Books and available in stores nationally.

GRILLED FISH & HERBS WRAPPED IN BANANA LEAF

SERVES 4-6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL

One of my favourite places to eat in Kuala Lumpur is at the huge hawkerstyle restaurant called Ikan Bakar Pak Lang, in Kampung Baru. It’s got to be among the busiest restaurants in the entire city, with constant queues that never seem to dwindle. In the middle of the open-air dining room is a huge spread of trays filled with food that you help yourself to, buffet-style. While there are around 50 different dishes, including varieties of curries, salads, grills and fried foods, the dish I always gravitate to is their ikan bakar, or grilled fish. This is no ordinary grilled fish, however; first it’s slathered in a thick paste fragrant with lemongrass, galangal, lime leaves, turmeric and chilli. Then it is wrapped in a banana leaf and cooked. As the fish grills, that fantastic paste fills the air with spicy fumes and the banana leaf scorches, giving off a lovely fragrance of its own and infusing the fish with wonderful flavours. In Malaysia they cook fish we might be unfamiliar with, but this dish translates perfectly to a backyard barbecue, using any white, firm-fleshed whole fish you prefer. They also use herbs that are only available in Asia, so I have suggested some more common herbs in this recipe.

INGREDIENTS

1 large banana leaf

1 800g whole white, firm-fleshed fish such as barramundi, snapper or leatherjacket, scaled and gutted

½ teaspoon sea salt

SPICE PASTE

4 red Asian shallots, chopped

2 garlic cloves, chopped

2cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and chopped

2cm piece of galangal, peeled & chopped

2 long red chillies, sliced

1 lemongrass stem, white part only, chopped

2 candlenuts

3 makrut (kaffir lime) leaves, finely sliced

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

1 tablespoon fish sauce

1 tablespoon liquid palm sugar or shaved palm sugar (jaggery)

1 tablespoon tamarind water

2 tablespoons peanut oil

TAMARIND CHILLI

DIPPING SAUCE

4 tablespoons tamarind water

½ teaspoon sea salt

½ teaspoon sugar

1 bird’s eye chilli, sliced

1 red Asian shallot, sliced

TO SERVE

wing beans, sliced

Lebanese (short) cucumber, sliced mint leaves

steamed jasmine rice

PREPARATION

Cut the banana leaf into a 25 x 40cm rectangle and soak in warm water for 5 minutes to soften. Pat dry with a clean tea towel and set aside.

To make the spice paste, put all the ingredients into a food processor and blitz until smooth.

Combine the tamarind chilli dipping sauce ingredients in a bowl and stir until the sugar has dissolved.

Lay the banana leaf lengthways, shiny side down, on your chopping board. Place the fish on top of the banana leaf, then score it on both sides and rub it with the sea salt. Now rub the sides and inside the cavity of the fish with the spice paste, coating it well.

Fold the leaf up, one side at a time, over the fish to form one big parcel. Pin the edges together with toothpicks to secure.

Heat a chargrill pan or barbecue chargrill to medium–high. Place the parcel on the chargrill and cook for 15 minutes on each side.

Using scissors, cut the banana leaf open and serve the fish with the tamarind chilli dipping sauce, wing beans, cucumber, mint leaves and steamed jasmine rice.

PHOTOGRAPHY: ©ALAN BENSON

GLOBAL KITCHEN

DIY TASTING MENU AT RITZ-CARLTON SAN FRANCISCO

Aspiring home cooks can now learn from some of the world’s top chefs as part of the new Global Cuisine Series hosted by The Ritz-Carlton, Half Moon Bay, just outside of San Francisco. The series consists of eight weekend retreats, each hosted by a different visiting chef who will lead guests in a specialised cooking class using locally sourced ingredients to craft their very own menu. Guests will then enjoy their creations in the hotel’s Navio restaurant, along with

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custom wine pairings from the resident sommelier. As well as running the cooking classes, the visiting chefs will create two original dishes for the Navio tasting menu and will host a pop-up station at Navio’s Sunday Brunch. The series will kick off in May with a weekend hosted by Claudia Sandoval, winner of season six of US MasterChef, and will draw to a close in December with a pastry-themed weekend led by William Werner. Rates start from US$950 (about A$1,260) per night and include the cooking class, lunch, US$100 resort credit and valet parking. ritzcarlton.com/en/hotels/california/half-moon-bay

HONG KONG’S IZAKAYAINSPIRED POP-UP

The Upper House Hong Kong has partnered with Canadian chef Matt Abergel to create a stylish pop-up dining destination in the hotel’s green space, The Lawn. The pop-up will serve dishes from Abergel’s izakaya-style restaurant Yardbird and snacks from his curated convenience store Sunday’s Grocery, including fried chicken, katsu sando and rice cakes. The beverage list comprises a combination of classics and Japanese-inspired cocktails like Sunday’s Shochu and Jumbo Ozaki. The pop-up opened in March and will run until 25 June 2017. upperhouse.com

THAI FLAVOUR TO SAVEUR

Foodies with a taste for Thai cuisine now have the chance to eat like a local on Butterfield & Robinson’s new Thailand Saveur Culinary Journey. The eight-day tour from Bangkok to Phuket via Chiang Mai will take guests to the source of their favourite flavours, visiting markets, farms and local kitchens, while also taking in some of the sights. The star-studded itinerary includes a market tour and cooking class with chef Naomi Duguid in Chiang Mai, a Hidden Bangkok food tour by American-Thai food blogger and author Chadawee Nualkhair, and a private dinner in one of Bangkok’s best restaurants with Lonely Planet writer Joe Cummings.

The eight-day, seven-night tour costs US$8,495 (about A$11,290) per person twin share. butterfield.com/trip/thailand-saveur-culinary-journey

VICTORIA’S BRAE JOINS THE WORLD’S BEST

The World’s 50 Best Restaurants were announced in Melbourne this year, the second time in their 15-year history that the awards have been held outside London. While Manhattan restaurant Eleven Madison took out the top spot, Australia was well represented, with Melbourne’s Attica rising one spot from last year’s rank to number 32 and regional Victorian restaurant Brae breaking into the top 50 at number 44. Set in the Otway hinterland, a remote location 90 minutes outside Melbourne, Brae is relatively far off the well-beaten foodie path. The sustainable eatery uses ingredients sourced on-site including vegetables, fruits, nuts, olives, eggs and honey. The site also offers six eco-friendly luxury guest suites for weekend getaways. With its newly elevated status on the world stage, Brae will likely become one of Australia’s most sought after foodie destinations for 2017. Room rates start from A$465 per night. braerestaurant.com

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AWARD-WINNING

PALANI MOHAN

Which destinations have inspired you?

The kind of places where you witness something that you weren’t expecting to see are the places that inspire me the most. When you stop somewhere for something to eat or you meet somebody along the way and that leads to something else, those are the things I look forward to the most – things that happen by serendipity, by chance. If I see an old couple sitting at a park bench in Rajasthan I love to go up and ask them who they are, do a portrait of them and find out their stories.

Where would you like to go that you haven’t been?

I’ve shot in over 90 countries but I haven’t been to the North Pole – so I’d love to go. I would also love to go to the moon.

What kind of camera do you use when you travel?

I use all different types of cameras; it depends where I’m going. I don’t think the camera is the important bit at all. I think what you do with whatever camera you have is the important bit.

How have platforms like Instagram and the rise of camera phones changed travel photography?

Everyone can take thousands of photographs without even thinking about why they’re taking them. I think Instagram is a wonderful way of communicating but there can be a downside. Because there are so many images out there, people spend very little time actually looking at the image on their screen and looking for the finer nuances and detail of it.

What’s the biggest mistake that people make when taking travel photos?

Taking lots of images without really slowing down and thinking about why they’re taking them. My advice would be to limit the number of images that you’re taking and look through your viewfinder, look through your camera lens and really see what you’re photographing before you do it.

You live in Hong Kong – what are some of your favourite places to go?

I love the energy of Hong Kong, I love the can-do attitude this place has. People who haven’t really been here and explored it think that it’s a big city,

with lots of buildings and people. But actually 70 per cent of Hong Kong is national park. It’s an incredibly green and lush place – there are beaches and fantastic walks you can go on without seeing anybody and then you can come home and go down to the theatre and have drinks at the bar. The food is amazing here too. I’ve been here for a very long time and there are still many places I haven’t been.

Tell us a bit about your upcoming tour with Abercrombie & Kent. What I hope to achieve during the trip to Ladakh and Mongolia is to take the level of photography that people are at up a couple of notches. All the seven or 10 people on the trip are going to be at various stages of their photography and my job is to really get them to the next level, get them thinking about and looking and understanding what they’re photographing. That will be the goal.

The 12-day Ladakh: Nature, Festivals & Photography with Palani Mohan small group journey departs 30 June, 2017 with prices from A$9,795 per person. abercrombiekent.com.au

PHOTOGRAPHER PALANI MOHAN HAS CAPTURED PEOPLE AND PLACES FROM AROUND THE GLOBE. HE TELLS LUXURY TRAVEL WHY HE BELIEVES TRAVEL PHOTOGRAPHY CAN BE SO POWERFUL.

MOHAN'S PHOTOGRAPHY IN LADAKH

There are many sides to The Islands of Tahiti. Yet they are all connected by Mana. Mana is a life force and spirit that surrounds us. You can see it. Touch it. Taste it. Feel it. And from the moment you arrive, you will understand why we say our Islands are