Luxury Travel Magazine - Issue 73

ARCTIC | ANTARCTIC | NORTHWEST PASSAGE

Whether exploring the High Arctic and the legendary Northwest Passage, or plying the Southern Seas on a voyage to Antarctica, a luxury expedition cruise with A&K immerses you in the exotic and the unspoiled. Unlike other cruises, every A&K voyage promises a fresh and unscripted adventure thanks to an expertly-crafted itinerary, awardwinning Expedition Team, on-board education and enrichment programmes, and an incredible expedition vessel.

Talk to your travel agent or call A&K on

to order a copy of our new Luxury Polar Expedition Cruises 2018-19 brochure or to talk to one of our Polar Specialists.

LUXURY TRAVEL CONTRIBUTORS

Gary Allen

EXECUTIVE EDITOR/ MANAGING DIRECTOR gary@luxurytravelmedia.com.au

Lee Tulloch EDITOR-AT-LARGE ltulloch@luxurytravelmedia.com.au

Christine Kane EDITOR ckane@luxurytravelmedia.com

Siobhan Plowman EDITORIAL ASSISTANT splowman@luxurytravelmedia.com.au

Kyle Sansbury ART DIRECTOR design@luxurytravelmedia.com.au

Kate Symons SUB EDITOR

Kelly Allen HEALTH & WELLNESS WRITER

Richard Bunting GENERAL MANAGER/ MANAGING EDITOR rbunting@luxurytravelmedia.com.au +61 4 24128806

Andrew McEvoy EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR

Scott Venturelli DIRECTOR

Cover Illustration

REAL ALCÁZAR DE SEVILLA

Christina Zimpel

W: christina-zimpel.squarespace.com

Published by: Magnesium Media ABN 86 066 598 427

Level 11, 66 Clarence Street, Sydney NSW 2000 Australia

Tel: +61 2 8705 5463

Distribution and Subscription enquiries: AUSTRALIA and NEW ZEALAND

Luxury Travel magazine

T: +61 2 8705 5463

E: subscriptions@luxurytravelmedia.com.au

W: luxurytravelmedia.com.au/subscribe

Autumn #73 Issue

Christina Zimpel ARTIST

Christina Zimpel was the Art Director at Australian Vogue, followed by stints at American Vogue and Mademoiselle. With her photographer husband, Patric Shaw, she lived in Paris for many years. Now based in Brooklyn New York, Christina is an artist who has been commissioned by British Vogue, Carven and Maison Kitsune amongst others, and has exhibited her work in New York, Sydney, San Francisco and Paris.

Tony Amos PHOTOGRAPHER

The work of photographer Tony Amos has been published globally, through commissions and syndication. For over a decade now he has been based in Sydney shooting travel, lifestyle, interiors, portraits and still life. The common thread in all his work is a subtle, naturalistic dedication to ambience and character.

Susan Skelly WRITER

Susan Skelly has held senior positions with mastheads including Qantas The Australian Way, The Bulletin, and Good Weekend. She is an award-winning feature writer and author of several books. Susan currently writes on travel, luxury, style and interior design for premium titles both in Australia and overseas.

FOLLOW US ON:

TWITTER@LUXURYTRAVELAUINSTAGRAM@LUXURYTRAVELAUFACEBOOK.COM/LUXURYTRAVELMAGAZINEPINTEREST.COM/LUXURYTRAVELAU

Freya Herring | Lucy Jones | Bev Malzard

Aaron Peasley | Grace Smith | Sue Watt

© Patric Shaw

#IN LOVE WITH SWITZERLAND

Pure relaxation.

How do we decide where to go next?

I was re-watching David Lean’s 1984 film A Passage to India last week and it occurred to me that so many of my travel choices are based on what I’ve seen on the large and small screen. British director Lean is in fact responsible for encouraging many of my travel obsessions – Ireland (Ryan’s Daughter), the Arabian continent (Lawrence of Arabia), Russia (Doctor Zhivago) and of course hectic, contradictory, sumptuous India. I developed a hankering for Morocco because of Bertolucci’s 1990 movie The Sheltering Sky, which is based on Paul Bowles’ strange and seductive novel. Italy was inspired by Fellini, of course, New York by Breakfast at Tiffany’s and a lesser-known 1967 romantic comedy starring Jane Fonda and Robert Redford, Barefoot in the Park. When thinking about where to go next for this issue, I drew on some of those cinematic influences (who would not want to be on the first flight to Scotland after laying eyes on those men in skirts in Outlander?) But I also recognised that there’s a zeitgeist in travel as much as anything else. ‘Hot’ destinations ebb and wane every few seasons – one year it’s New Zealand, followed by Portugal and then Iceland.

A couple of European summers ago it seemed as if everyone I knew was in Capri seeking retro Jetset glamour. Last year, it was beautiful, wild, under-appreciated Sicily. This Australian summer, everyone was eschewing the sun for deep snow in Japan.

I don’t like the idea that there are ‘trends’ in travel. It suggests that the experiences we have away from home are as insignificant as a change of frock. Journeys are more than that – to be truly memorable, they need to be inspirational, emotional and transformational. Some trips are enjoyable and fun but don’t resonate beyond those moments; others deeply affect people for the rest of their lives.

Still, word of mouth and luscious editorial pages can set us on unexpected paths. I never much cared for the idea of Turkey until I started to see editorial spreads on its beauty and energy. I’m glad I did – despite a troubled political landscape right now, Istanbul is one of the world’s most fascinating and rewarding cities.

Rather than trends, I like to think of ‘moods.’ People are in the mood now to travel to remote, pristine places, perhaps acutely aware that these places may not in future exist in this same untrammelled state. This partly explains the current mood to visit remote craggy islands like Fogo, landscapes where the Northern Lights dazzle or vast deserts where footprints are blown away in the sands.

There’s also a renewed mood for visiting cities that have strong cultural offerings (and where the food’s not bad either: we all love to eat) – gorgeous, heady Seville is our pick. It’s a place that demands immersion, not merely travelling on the surface.

Beaches? Try something different this year – chic, social Comporta, where you can experience the best of coastal Portugal without the crowds of the Algarve. If you have the Venice SimplonOrient-Express on your wish list, this may be the year, as the legendary vintage train adds three more handsome luxury carriages. And if you’d like to try a cruise but fear it’s not your demographic, U by Uniworld turns the river cruise industry on its head with ships and itineraries designed for those under 40.

So many places to go, so little time! My hope is, that wherever you choose to travel this year, you give yourself permission to take an unexpected turn, follow a whim, look and listen without prejudice and, by taking the path less travelled, discover something new about the world and yourself.

Swiss Wellness Hotels and Destinations have relaxation down to a fine art – with their exceptional mix of thermal baths, well-balanced health concepts and active relaxation ethos, all set against Switzerland’s spectacular natural backdrop, you’ll notice the stress just slip away. MySwitzerland.com/wellness

Lee Tulloch Editor-at-Large

GLAMPING AMID THE VINEYARDS

From 1 February 2018, Victoria’s Balgownie Estate Bendigo has welcomed guests with a new Glamping offering, nestled in the winery grounds with views of the vineyards. The 15 luxury Bell Tents for two include queen size beds (or twin which sleeps four people), bathroom, split system air conditioning, mini bar fridge, tea and coffee facilities, and cosy touches across furnishings, rugs and lighting. Each has a private outdoor decking area with relaxing outdoor lounge setting. There’s also a Luxury Safari Tent with four-poster bed. The Estate’s first class restaurant opens seven days a week for breakfast, lunch and dinner and, of course, guests can take in the sweeping country views from their private deck, while enjoy a selection from the wide the range of Balgownie Estate wines. balgownieestatebendigo.com

AMALFI COAST IDYLL

DISCOVER THE BEAUTY OF THE SAVUTE WHEN BELMOND LODGE REOPENS

Following a complete rebuild that includes design inspired by history’s great explorers, Belmond Savute Elephant Lodge in Botswana’s Okavango Delta, will reopen its tented doors on 1 June 2018. Guests are invited to explore, discover and experience the Lodge’s African charms, beside the mysterious Savute Channel in Chobe National Park belmond.com/safaris/africa/botswana/belmond-savute-elephant-lodge

Casa Angelina, a member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World, is a picturesque cliff-edge property on Italy’s Amalfi Coast. Overlooking the pretty Campania village of Praiano, and just ten minutes’ drive from Positano, Casa Angelina combines timeless elegance with chic Mediterranean style in 39 exquisite rooms and suites and four ultra-exclusive Eaudesea rooms. The hotel’s gourmet restaurant, Un Piano nel Cielo, showcases Mediterranean cuisine using seasonal, locally-sourced product, while poolside, guests can enjoy easy dining on healthy salads, pastas and light dishes; restorative wellness comes via a spa offering treatments designed to soothe mind and body, a relaxing drink can be enjoyed at the water’s edge seaside bar or, on the water in one of Casa Angelina’s private boats. casangelina.com

Casa Angelina’s Autumn Offer is available on bookings confirmed by 15 October 2018 for stays between 1 October and 28 October 2018, or if you’re quick, grab the Spring Offer for stays between 24 March and 31 May 2018.

info@uniquetourism.com

CLUB INTERCONTINENTAL AT INTERCONTINENTAL BALI RESORT – AN INDULGENT HIDEAWAY

InterContinental Hotels & Resorts is renowned for its exemplary Club InterContinental Lounges around the world, but Club InterContinental at InterContinental Bali Resort takes that model even further, offering so much more than the usual privileges of an exclusive hotel guest lounge. Set within its own secluded wing offering five different categories of guest rooms and suites, the Club comes complete with an exclusive-use Club Pool, and a 24-hour ‘At Your Side’ butler service. Each elegant and luxurious themed suite (ranging from the 101 square metre Balinese Suite to the sprawling 152 square metre Bukit Suite) is

an indulgent hideaway, and the 58-square-metre Club InterContinental guest room is no less distinctive, exuding all of the warm and hospitable inclusions for which the Balinese are known. Among the many Club privileges at InterContinental Bali Resort are private check-in and check-out, 24-hour light refreshments, à la carte and buffet breakfast options at four venues including in the Lounge, afternoon tea, evening cocktails and canapés and unlimited complimentary children’s program at Planet Trekkers.

bali.intercontinental.com/privileges

Media Advisory, Friday 9 February 2018

National Zoo & Aquarium named as one of Australia’s Top 10 Attractions for 2017

❖ Holidays with Kids annual readers’ choice awards has recognised Canberra’s National Zoo & Aquarium as one of the top 10 attractions as voted by their 600,000 strong readership

❖ The National Zoo & Aquarium beat a strongly acclaimed list of nominees, including many well -known public zoos and wildlife parks

The 2017 Holidays with Kids Reader’s Choice Awards has established the National Zoo & Aquarium in Canberra as a Top 7 attraction in the category of ‘Best Animal Attractions’.

2017 has been a big year for the National Zoo & Aquarium, seeing the unveiling of an unprecedented ‘open range’ section in the middle of a metropolitan zoo. Featuring expansive new enclosures for rhinoceros, cheetah, zebra, giraffe and eland to name a few, this easily walkable track has more than doubled the size of the original zoo and added 10 new species to b e viewed by the public.

The recognition of the National Zoo & Aquarium as being in the top 7 of 70+ animal attractions in Australia is a testament to the hard work of the entire team behind the zoo.

“It’s great to get the recognition from so many different organisations and this is a reflection of the feedback we are constantly getting from visitors, guests and members , ” says Richard Tindale, owner of the National Zoo & Aquarium.

“The zoo has progressed a long way in the last few years and now offers visitors the opportunity of seeing some of the world’s most dangerous and endangered animals in open, moated habitats, along with reptiles, amphibians and river and ocean fish and sharks in the aquarium ”

EXPLORE COASTAL AND COUNTRY VICTORIA WITH NEW INSPIRING JOURNEY SMALL GROUP TOUR

Inspiring Journeys – AAT Kings’ boutique, small group offering – has announced its new itinerary for 2018/19. The seven-day Victoria’s Hidden Gems tour takes guests through not only the colourful streets of Melbourne, but also the surf beaches of Torquay, the boutique spa retreats of Daylesford and the picturesque wineries of the Mornington and Bellarine peninsulas. Beginning in Melbourne, guests can explore the city’s vibrant arcades and laneways and the iconic MCG, and enjoy dinner aboard a colonial tramcar restaurant; the next day takes guests to the famous spa town of Daylesford, where they can relax in the healing waters of the historic Hepburn Bathhouse and Spa. Over the following days, indulge in the experiences of Victoria’s quaint country towns – activities include a morning tea of freshly baked scones and lavender honey at Lavendula Swiss Italian Farm, a guided tour of Creswick Woollen Mills and a beer at the historic National Hotel pub in Clunes. A drive along the scenic Great Ocean Road takes passengers to the surf capital of Torquay, the iconic Twelve Apostles and Loch Ard Gorge and scenic seaside town of Lorne, before a drive (and ferry) up to the Mornington Peninsula, dipping past boutique hotels, picturesque wineries and gourmet restaurants.

Inspiring Journeys small group tours are limited to 20 people, with a minimum age of 12. The Victoria’s Hidden Gems tour starts at $3,525 per person and includes most meals, boutique accommodation, transport and airport transfers. aatkings.com/inspiring-journeys. aatkings.com/tours/victorias-hidden-gems

GOLD LIST AWARD WINNER ADDS NEW $1.7 MILLION WELLNESS CENTRE

Queensland’s eco-certified Gwinganna Lifestyle Retreat, in the lush Gold Coast Hinterland, is augmenting its offering with the announcement to the development of a new custom-designed wellness education centre, due for completion mid-2018. Enhancing the retreat’s existing luxury private villas and unique Meditation Suites, the new centre structure has been designed to create additional space, welcoming natural light and fresh air, and capitalising on the retreat’s exquisite and serene high plateau setting, on over 500 hectares in the Tallebudgera Valley. The centre will also feature a full suite of audio-visual equipment, a new welcome and arrivals area and wellness consultation rooms. Gwinganna Lifestyle Retreat was the winner of the Best Australian Luxury Health and Wellness category in Luxury Travel’s 2017 Gold List Awards. gwinganna.com

THE ‘HIDDEN’ ISLANDS OF TAHITI

Beyond beautiful Tahiti, Bora Bora and Moorea lies Tahiti’s ‘best kept secrets’ – unspoiled and uncrowded islands and atolls offering an authentic Polynesian experience which while they may not fit the bill in terms of man-made luxury, they certainly fit the bill for natural luxury! Huahine, nicknamed the “Garden of Eden,” consists of two islands joined by a bridge, encircled by turquoise lagoons. Restored Tahitian marae (temples) and centuries-old stone fish traps reflect the island’s ancient culture and the land is rich with watermelon, cantaloupe, vanilla, coffee and taro. International surfing champions seek the worldclass waves at Avamoa Pass, and the world’s largest outrigger canoe race, the Hawaiki Nui Va’a, starts here each October. Raiatea, northwest of Tahiti, is known as ‘The Sacred Island’, and attracts yachties and sailors from around the world for the world-class sailing in the

Leeward Islands; Taha’a, just two miles north of Raiatea, is known as “The Vanilla Island”; the Marquesas are ‘The Mysterious Islands’, reached via a 3.5 hour inter-island flight from Papeete and comprised of six inhabited, and six uninhabited, islands. This is where Paul Gauguin painted, and retired.

“The hidden Islands of Tahiti and the lesser known activities including adventure holidays, hiking, sports, even camping, are all there to be discovered by new audiences, such as millennials or families, who may not have ever thought our Islands can offer those things,” says Rob Thompson, Director of Tahiti Tourisme Australia and New Zealand.

Paradise? Names like Pearl Island, Pink Sand Island, Dream Island, and the ‘Infinite Lagoon’ would suggest a definite yes! tahititourisme.com.au/en-au

ONE&ONLY ANNOUNCES NEW RESORT ON KEÁ ISLAND, GREECE

Hotel and resort brand One&Only has announced a new resort in the Cyclades, One&Only Keá Island. Currently under development, the beachfront resort is set on a secluded bay and will feature 75 resort villas, in addition to a collection of exclusive private residences.

Part of the One&Only Beach Resorts collection, the resort will offer a beach club where guests can arrive via their private yacht or resort helicopter. A separate, cantilevered lounge will be built into the cliff side, where patrons can watch the sun set over the water. A spa, fitness centre and three restaurants will add to the resort’s offering, with a particular focus on the island’s culture and heritage.

One&Only Keá Island will be the second One&Only resort in Europe, following One&Only Portonovi in Montenegro. This 140room resort set along the western coast of the Balkans is also currently under development. Opening dates are yet to be announced. oneandonlyresorts.com.

PRETTY BEACH HOUSE WINS 2018 CONDÉ NAST TRAVELER (USA) GOLD LIST AWARD

Pretty Beach House, a Luxury Lodge of Australia set in Bouddi National Park, New South Wales, has won a coveted Condé Nast Traveler Gold List Award. The luxurious four-pavilion lodge was one of three Australian hotels to make the list, alongside Halcyon House and the Park Hyatt Sydney.

Just 90 minutes north of Sydney, the luxurious nature lodge is nestled amongst the trees overlooking the picturesque Pretty Beach. prettybeachhouse.com

THE BYRON AT BYRON HAS NEW HEIGHTS IN SIGHT

After a renovation of its restaurant, bar and main hubs, The Byron at Byron Resort & Spa has also appointed Executive Chef, Matthew Kemp, to serve up a thoughtful, and continuously evolving, menu at The Restaurant. Kemp fuses European Cuisine and Asian flavours in his own individual way, incorporating elements of the region, seasons and the climate of Byron Bay. Highlight features of the resort makeover include a monumental sandstone reception desk, flagstone breezeway, verandah, Italian furniture, European lighting by SPACE, and an eclectic mix of antiques, art and curiosities.

thebyronatbyron.com.au

MODERN LUXURY IN L.A’S DESIGN DISTRICT

Evoking a quintessential West Hollywood (WeHo) style, the modern luxury of the newly opened Kimpton La Peer Hotel, in L.A’s exclusive Design District, is embodied in chic Europeanstyled rooms and thoughtful amenities (Jade Yoga Mats in every room). Naturally, given its location, the intimate hotel (105 guest rooms and suites) also doubles as a beautifully curated art gallery. Guests can expect room service reimagined, with custom picnic baskets, a complete bath menu with butler service, and In Room Bottle Service for craft cocktails.

lapeerhotel.com

FANCY A ‘ROYAL’ LONDON WEDDING?

Voted #8 Top Hotel in London in the Condé Nast Traveler Readers’ Choice Awards 2017, The Milestone Hotel, just off Hyde Park and facing Kensington Palace, has introduced new Royal Kensington Wedding Packages for discerning brides and grooms. The elegant 19th century property was formerly two mansions, and The Oratory was a private chapel for the residents of one, with sweeping arches, a vaulted ceiling, ornate windows and marble flooring. The Milestone is now licensed for civil ceremonies, and the historic Oratory space is available to host intimate wedding parties of up to eight people. The package includes two nights in a Grand Master Suite, Bentley limousine transfer for a day of shopping, a privately curated tour of Kensington Palace, pre-wedding beauty and relaxation treatments and more. Couples can combine a wedding ceremony in The Oratory with the Royal Kensington Wedding Package at an additional price. Available from 1 March 2018 until 30 November 2018.

milestonehotel.com/events/wedding-packages

BRISBANE WELCOMES FIRST LUXURY HOTEL OPENING IN TWO DECADES

Scheduled to open its doors to guests on 15 March 2018, the new W Brisbane marks two big milestones – the re-entry of the brand into Australia, and the first luxury hotel for the city of Brisbane in 20 years.

Located at 300 George Street, with stellar views across Brisbane River to South Bank and Mount Coot-tha, W Brisbane will offer 312 stylish guestrooms, including 29 suites, two Wow Suites and the Extreme Wow Suite (the brand’s modern interpretation of a Presidential Suite), designed with custom furnishings and interiors inspired by Queensland’s heritage and laidback Aussie vibes. Signature comforts include Bliss amenities and the famed W bed, complimentary Wi-Fi, Bowers & Wilkins Bluetooth speakers, 55’’ LED TV, and in-room W Mixbar.

Guests can dine, drink and relax across three distinct eating venues, including W Brisbane’s signature al fresco-vibed restaurant (featuring the best locally sourced produce and interactive live cooking), The Living Room, and WET Deck. The hotel’s AWAY Spa includes relaxation pods, vitality pools, experience showers and salt inhalation chambers, and the 24-hour gym boasts the latest TechnoGym equipment.

whotels.com/brisbane

© Michael Wee

READER TOURS

Partnered with

Experience Egypt, The Nile and Alexandria

Explore the ancient past of the pharaohs in luxury as you cruise along the Nile on A&K’s award-winning Sanctuary Sun Boat IV. Resident expert Egyptologists, Cairo locals Laila Abdel Raouf and Hala Mahmoud, will accompany you on your journey — from the soaring Pyramids of Giza and the hidden Valley of the Kings to Cleopatra’s realm on the Mediterranean coast in Alexandria. Navigate the colourful alleyways of Cairo’s largest market, explore ancient monuments on camelback, sail between tiny islands in a traditional felucca and explore unseen temples in Denderah. Guests can even follow in the footsteps of Australian soldiers in El Alamein.

Sujata Raman, Regional Managing Director of Abercrombie & Kent Australia/Asia Pacific, will be hosting the 8-20 September 2018 departure.

ITINERARY

Day 1: Arrive Cairo

Arrive in Cairo for your first night’s stay at the historic Marriott Mena House Hotel. Gather for a journey briefing followed by a Welcome Dinner.

Day 2: GizaThe Pyramids & Sphinx

Explore the famous Pyramids, Sphinx and the funerary boat of King Cheops before returning to Cairo for a free afternoon.

Day 3: Cairo - Luxor

Fly to Luxor; spend the day exploring the ancient city of Thebes, including visits to the Valley of the Kings and the tomb of Tutankhamun. Finish the evening with dinner aboard the Sun Boat IV.

Day 4: Cruising the NileTemple of Hathor at Denderah

Sail north to the Temple of Hathor at Denderah before sailing back to Luxor, where you can roam the immense Temple of Luxor.

Day 5: Cruising the NileEdfu to Nom Ombo Cruise to Edfu and explore the Temple of Horus, followed by a local cooking lesson onboard. Dock in front of the Temple of Nom Ombo before visiting the Crocodile Museum.

Day 6: Cruising the Nile - Aswan

Stop at the thriving town of Aswan and take a motorboat ride to Philae on the island of Agilika. Weather permitting, sail around the tiny Aswan islands in a felucca, a traditional wooden sailing boat.

Day 7: Abu Simbel - Cairo

Bid farewell to Sanctuary Sun Boat IV and fly to Abu Simbel, exploring the twin temples of Ramses II and his wife, Queen Nefertari. Return to Cairo and enjoy an afternoon at leisure. Stay at the Four Seasons Hotel Cairo at Nile Plaza.

Day 8: Cairo

Visit the Egyptian Antiquities Museum, home to the largest collection of ancient Egyptian artefacts, before viewing the Mosque and Madrasa of Sultan Hassan. Barter for essential oils, lanterns and spices at Khan elKhalili Bazaar, one of the world’s largest markets.

Day 9: Cairo

Visit Memphis, once the capital of the Old Kingdom. Continue to Sakkara, an active burial ground for more than 3,500 years and now Egypt’s largest archaeological site. Take in the Step Pyramid of Djoser, the world’s oldest pyramid, and watch as archaeologists work to uncover new treasures.

Day 10: Cairo - Alexandria

Travel to the legendary city of Alexandria on Egypt’s Mediterranean coast. Gaze at the fairy-tale ramparts of the 15th century

HIGHLIGHTS

Fort Qaitbey and gaze up at the soaring tower of the Abu Abbas Masjid mosque. Spend the first of two nights at the Four Seasons Hotel Alexandria at San Stefano.

Day 11: Alexandria

Explore the city, including the catacombs of Kum Shukafa, the largest known Roman burial site in Egypt, and the hyper-modern Library of Alexandria.

Day 12: Alexandria — Cairo

Journey along the coast to El Alamein, scene of the most decisive battles of World War II; follow the stories of Australian diggers in the Military Museum and Commonwealth War Cemetery, where 7,000 tombstones overlook the desert battlefield. Return to Cairo for a free evening and a farewell dinner.

Day 13: Depart Cairo

Transfer to the airport for your outbound flight.

• Stay at the historic Marriott Mena House Hotel, with views of the pyramids from your own private balcony

• Avoid crowds and the hassle of navigating around other ships with private docking facilities in Luxor and Aswan

• Explore one of Egypt’s best-preserved and less-frequented temples at Denderah

• Discover Cleopatra’s world on the Mediterranean coast

• Uncover stories of our Australian Diggers at El Alamein

PRICES

Twin Share: From AU$9,995 pp

Travel dates

Single supplement: From AU$3,325

2018 2019

1-13 September

8-20 September

9 – 2 March

27 April – 9

Bookings must be confirmed by 2 months prior to departures — e.g. Book by 1 July 2018 for September 2018 travel.

Groups are limited to 18 guests.

For terms and conditions visit: abercrombiekent.com.au/terms-conditions/booking-terms-conditions

NEXT TOP TRAVEL

Next Top CITY

Seville

If ever there was a city that makes us swoon, it’s Spain’s Andalusian capital. Lee Tulloch offers a glimpse of the traditions, flavours and vibrant spirit that puts Seville at the top of our to-do list.

Seville, Spain’s fourth largest city, is considered, along with Toledo, to be its most beautiful. Jacarandas and mimosas line the streets, cerise-coloured bougainvilleas climb the walls, and leafy trees drop huge, fleshy Seville oranges at your feet. Narrow cobbled streets house buildings painted white, terracotta and mustard with wrought iron balconies straight out of Goya. Sensual, flamboyant and steamy in summer, there are many reasons why Seville is Spain’s hot spot. It’s deeply traditional. The Sevillanos are passionate about the corrida, unlike other Spanish cities where bullfighting is banned. Colourful tiles and stuffed bullheads appear on many walls, especially in taverns. One of the best is the Mesones del Serranto, Alfonso XII 9, just opposite the Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza, one of the oldest bullrings in Spain. If you’re interested, the bullfighting season is usually Easter to midSeptember with a hiatus in the hotter months of July and August. Even if you’re opposed to the practice, but interested in its history, there are frequent tours each day through the oval-shaped stadium. Or you can watch it on TV, where it is televised live.

Flamenco. Spain’s famous, folkloric music and dance form, flamenco was not originally meant to be a theatrical performance and if you want to experience the more spontaneous authentic version, head for one of the little flamenco bars along the river in Triana, such as Lo Nuestro, Betis 31. Shop for flamenco shoes, fans and shawls in the streets that run off Calle Sierpes in the Centro district. Or take a flamenco class in one of the many flamenco schools open to allcomers, such as Taller Flamenco, calle Peral 49. World Heritage. Seville is more than 2000 years old, with Phoenicians and then Romans ruling before the Muslim conquest of the 8th Century. In the 13th century the city became Christian, with Muslims, Jews and Christians living in harmony until the Inquisition. Evidence of all cultures still exist in the city’s ancient, narrow streets, from the remnants of a Roman aqueduct around which a main boulevard has grown to the many buildings constructed in the mudejar style, the Islamic aesthetic developed under Christian rule.

Photography by Tony Amos

Left: Street scene around the Plaza de Toros, typical white an ochre paint work

Right: Horse carriage near the cathedral

There are three important UNESCO world Heritage sites in the centre of the city - the Santa Maria Cathedral, which took 500 years to complete and is the largest Gothic cathedral in the world; the General Archive of the Indies, which houses the second most important collection of historical archives after the Vatican, including Christopher Columbus’s diary, and the magnificent Alcazar Palace, the oldest palace in Europe continuously occupied by royalty, which features lush and romantic formal gardens. It is known to Game of Thrones fans as the Water Gardens of Dorne.

Tapas. There are more tapas bars there than anywhere in Spain. From braised pork cheek to the hearty local version of gazpacho, Seville’s culinary offerings are legend. Avoid the bars around the cathedral where the tourists gather. Try some salmorejo, the garlicky, thickened version of gazpacho that is served with a topping of chopped acorn-fed jamon iberica and egg, battered and fried live ortiguillas (sea anemones) or mojama, salted and air dried tuna loin. What to drink?

A local sherry is a good start, spritzed with soda and lemon or a glass of tinto de verano, the red wine-soda blend locals drink instead of sangria.

Markets. Seville’s produce market, Mercado de Triana, on the less touristy side of the Guadalquivir river, is situated on top of the ruins of an ancient castle. But the game-changer is the recently opened Lonja

del Barranco, a gleaming two-storey building across the river, which features twenty stalls that represent the best of Spanish gastronomy, including a croqueteria serving bite-sized croquettes of bacalao and rabo de toro (bull’s tail) and a charcuteria selling cubes of jamon in paper cones. Bring your dishes back to high tables arranged under a glass atrium or sit outside along the river.

Sweets. If you have a sweet tooth, this is the city for you. Start the day with the churros con chocolate at Churros El Postigo, the little outdoor stall on the river bank, favourite of the late king. Warm cups of thick custardy chocolate are accompanied by two kinds of churros – a coiled sausage of doughy, hot donut-style pastry or crispy star-shaped tubes. You can’t go far in Seville without coming across a pasteleria, with windows full of traditional desserts, such as milhojas de crema (millefeuilles), yemas (egg yolk and sugar) and torrijas (deep fried bread with sugar syrup). For the finest French pastry, visit Manu Jara’s cake shop

in Triana, occupying an

Left: Flamenco costume in shop on Calle Sierpes

Below left: Bull heads adorn the walls of the bar Mesones del Serranto

Right: Reflecting pool under the Alcazar Palace

old grocery store at Calle Purity 5. His chocolate-dipped palmiers have been acclaimed the best in Spain. A visit to Seville isn’t complete without trying the spectacular ice creams and sorbet at Heladaria La Fiorentina, Calle Zaragoza 16. Master ice cream maker Joaquin Liria concocts recipes using the flavours and perfumes of Seville, such as his famous orange flower icecream, textured with brioche and crystallised orange. Ceramics. It’s all about the azulejos, the colourful painted ceramic tiles that have been produced in Seville since the 16th Century and decorate walls throughout the city. For centuries the factories of Triana produced vibrant tiles and pottery but the last closed its doors in 2012. The old Montalvan factory, the last of the workshops, has been transformed into the absorbing Centro Ceramica Triana, offering selfguided tours of the old kilns and the ceramic-making process. Galleries showcase beautiful examples of ceramics from Moorish times up to the 1950s. The display of historic photographs of the old gitano (gypsy) neighbourhood, also famous for its flamenco artists

and festivals, is also particularly interesting. Romantic hotels. The grand Hotel Alfonso XIII is the Ritz of Seville’s hotels but the city offers plenty in the way of atmospheric small hotels in converted palacios, mansions, convents and even one in an olive mill. The barrio Santa Cruz, the former Jewish quarter of narrow, winding streets, houses a number of charming accommodations, including the lovely Corral del Rey, a conversion of three historic casas on one of the narrowest streets, just five minutes walk from the Cathedral. (mrandmrssmith.com/luxury-hotels/corraldel-rey.) Another of the advantages of staying in Santa Cruz is proximity to the Aire Ancient Baths, calle Aire, a luxurious hamman in a mujedar-style palace that is built on an ancient bathhouse, where visitors can float in sexy subterranean pools followed by a 30-minute massage in candle-lit rooms. It’s almost as much fun trying to find it as bathing there.

See more images from this story at luxurytravelmedia.com.au

Left: Ceramic wall tiles

Above: Historic watchmakers shop

Next Top COUNTRY

Scotland

Scotland is our country of 2018, so we asked our Scottish contributor, Freya Herring , to give us the lowdown.

Like sausage dogs and millennial pink, Scotland has been getting a lot of attention recently. And it’s not for the usual reasons. We’re not talking about the standard discourse on whisky or mist-topped mountains, the Highland Games or deep-fried Mars bars. Now the talk surrounds ground-breaking architecture, coffee bars and exceptional design. UK chefs are flocking north to open innovative restaurants across the country, for cheaper than they could ever afford down south. Scotland is becoming a bit cool.

The big ticket on everyone’s lips is the V&A Museum of Design Dundee, due to open at the end of the year. It’s appropriate that it is the V&A opening in Scotland, and not another national gallery, given Queen Victoria and Prince Albert’s passion for the country (they spent as much time as possible at Balmoral Castle, their Scottish residence). Designed by Japanese architect Kengo Kuma, this tumbling colossus of a building signals a fresh start for Dundee – a post-industrial city with a reputation befitting of anywhere thrashed by then-Prime Minister Thatcher’s sudden closure of industry in the 1980s. It struggled with the change, and it was poor. But it also had a thriving college of art and design, and so a passion for the aesthetic always bubbled beneath its concrete edges. Now it boasts a Malmaison hotel, craft beer bars, and the only V&A in the world outside of London. If Dundee had a big sister, it would have to be Glasgow. In Scotland it is said that Edinburgh is where you go for

a fancy meal; but Glasgow is where you go to have fun. But the times they are a-changin’, with former Ottolenghi chef Rosie Healey opening Alchemilla in the hip West End neighbourhood of Glasgow’s Finnieston. From confit pheasant tossed with radicchio, walnuts and pomegranate arils, to the silkiest pappardelle in town and a stellar natural wine list, it’s serving some of Scotland’s, nay, the UK’s best food right now. Coffee shops such as Artisan Roast, Avenue Coffee and For Fika Sake serve flat whites as good as any you’ll find in Sydney, and if you venture

Left: V&A Museum of Design Dundee; Right above: Glasgow Cathedral viewed from the Glasgow Necropolis; Above: Charles Rennie Mackintosh stained glass window design.

40 minutes out of town to the postcard-pretty village of Luss, you can have a seriously excellent flatty on the pier, feet dangling above the water, at St Mocha (make it an affogato in summer – they make the ice cream in-house).

This year also marks the 150th anniversary of Scotland’s patron architect, designer and artist, Charles Rennie Mackintosh. Dundee’s V&A has resurrected a section of the original interior from the Ingram Street Tearooms, which he designed in 1907, but in Glasgow you can experience much of his architecture in situ – the Glasgow School of Art is still in reconstruction since its terrible fire of 2014, but Queen’s Cross Church is a treat in all of its deep, dark refinement; or go to the Mackintosh House – a reconstruction of his light-filled home – in the West End. A jaunt out to Helensburgh to visit the Hill House is one of the best day trips you could take,

the building an exquisite convergence of Cubist form and pared-back elegance.

Edinburgh is known for its age and history, but new highlights are popping up, such as Mary Hillard’s gelateria on the Grassmarket, Mary’s Milk Bar. Hillard studied at Carpigiani Gelato University near Bologna and has brought real gelato to the capital, with flavours such as nutmeg and pickled brambles, and almond and sea buckthorn. Little potteries scatter the countryside, and look out for honesty boxes on the side of the road selling handmade cheeses and locally compiled cookbooks. Noma alumni are foraging away at Loch Fyne for their wonderful restaurant, Inver in Strathlachlan. And speaking of Noma – René Redzepi himself sent a few of his chefs over the North Sea to learn the tricks of sourdough specialist Bostock Bakery in the beloved seaside town of North Berwick. Across the road, a little co-op called Whynot? sells vintage cashmere and the most beautiful knitted dolls you ever did see. End your day with vinegardoused fish and chips on the town’s windswept beach and you’ll struggle not to keep a little piece of Scotland in your soul on your way home. So we got out of that without mentioning whisky once. Of course that industry is booming, but gin is the way of things for the contemporary Scottish distillery (Scottish whisky needs a minimum of three years and one day in cask, but usually it’s upwards of 10 years – so it will be a while before new distilleries release anything).

As for the deep-fried Mars bar? We’re afraid that’s a bit of an urban myth – ask for one at the chippy at your peril. Deep-fried pizza, however; that’s a different story…

Above: View of the Three Sisters

Right: Edinburgh castle Opposite page from left: Interior of Hill House; Top right: Highland cow;

Bottom: North Berwick

© NATIONAL TRUST FOR SCOTLAND, HILL HOUSE © VISIT SCOTLAND

© VISIT SCOTLAND

Next Top ISLAND

Fogo Island

NEWFOUNDLAND, CANADA

Fogo Island, offshore from Canada’s Newfoundland and Labrador, is a place of contorted, ancient land and craggy, barren rock shelves. It is a calm world where brightly coloured clapboard houses dot the landscape. There are meandering sea cliff footpaths, a breathtaking coastline, and rare and beautiful scenery. It’s a large maritime island where early, stoic settlers carved out a living by cod fishing. Fishing regulations changed the economic dynamic of this community and now an arts scene is emerging. The advent of the now-iconic Fogo Island Inn, a bold and wonderful building, has made an architectural splash amid tradition and the still waters of local buildings.

This boutique hotel soars into the sky expressing a bold move with

a modern take on Newfoundland’s ‘outport’ design and decor. The rooms are elegant, intimate and light-filled, with various aspects to the sea, making them a perfect retreat from the forbidding landscape. Summer here comes gently as the Atlantic sunshine creates a bounty of wildflowers, and locally sourced goodies to add to the menu in Fogo Island Inn’s restaurant. The chef’s focus is on ‘wild things from the North Atlantic’, which means berries, seafood and foraged plants. Fogo’s nickname is Iceberg Alley, a nod to the massive frozen monoliths that traverse the North Atlantic between Greenland and Newfoundland. Guests relaxing at the inn might very well see one float by. fogoislandinn.com

Next Top BEACH

Comporta

PORTUGAL

Alittle more than an hour’s drive south of Lisbon there’s a beach sanctuary where only a few in the know spend their summers. This region is a raw and pristine part of Portugal, offering wild landscapes and an unspoiled outlook.

Comporta is the new international ‘black’, where designers, actors and artists stay to play – quietly. The best beaches here are Praia do Pego and Praia del Comporta.

Inspired architecture dots the beachside and the ramshackle harbour. Holiday villas have sandy floors, and creative architects have indulged

the estate with amazing accommodation. Fancy a contemporary timber hut designed by Aires Mateus, a hotel in a forest or an eco-chic holiday home? The doors are open.

There are places to socialise, if you must. You might find a restaurant in a stable or a fisherman’s hut where you’ll rub shoulders with the rich and private who have gone off the grid.

The local village of Comporta is whitewashed, rustic and has retained a laid-back character of times past. Comporta translates to ‘behave’ and it’s fitting; good manners prevail in this sparkly beach beauty. cavalosnaareia.com

Next Top JOURNEY

Grand Suites

THE VENICE SIMPLONORIENT-EXPRESS

The legendary Venice Simplon-Orient-Express will take it up a notch this year with the three opulent Grand Suites slated to launch in March. The famous train already delivers sublime comfort, drama, romance and history, transporting guests back to an age of travel when this trip pioneered crossing borders to discover chic, emerging European destinations – in style.

And now in these exceptional suites there’s additional bliss. Each suite has a private bathroom with shower, a double bed, and a living area with décor reflecting three of the cities the train visits: Venice with opulent silks and etched glass, Paris with an haute couture edge, and Istanbul with handcarved timber and polished embossed leather. As with the classic cabins,

the new suites are meticulously restored. Lovers of Art Deco design will be in heaven. (The other carriages are so authentic guests share a bathroom.)  In-room dining is now possible and the train’s cabin stewards are available for all requests. Fancy a late night supper as you speed through the countryside? Service with a smile and a gourmet petit feast comes knocking at your door. Private and perfect.

The Venice Simplon-Orient-Express travels between London, Paris and Venice from March to November and from Paris to Istanbul once a year in August/September.

Even if you’ve enjoyed this iconic train before, you’re likely to find a new ‘suite’ spot in these sumptuous additions … so, all aboard. belmond.com/trains

Next Top CRUISE

U by Uniworld

There’s a fresh breeze blowing across the bow of The B, which set sail on its maiden voyage along the Seine in October. Part of the Uniworld cruise brand, U by Uniworld, The B is the first cruise ship of its type with an age limit, introducing a new generation to river cruising. Although said to be targeting millennials, the strict 21 to 45 age bracket is a little more generous. Passengers will be introduced to some of the world’s most exciting destinations while cruising with like-minded people. On board The B you’ll find yoga and a silent disco party, and guests will mix it with mixology, impressionist painting and wine classes.

When not in cruise mode there are offshore experiences such as a panoramic breakfast on a Gastronome bus, a tricky treasure hunt at the Louvre, a Paris roofs tour, and a secret tour of Versailles.

Carrying a maximum of just 120 travellers per voyage, the stylish ship has two rooftop venues, a spa, international DJs and a communal dining table. The farm-to-table cuisine runs the gourmet gamut

from quinoa burgers and miso marinated wild salmon to peanut butter bacon chocolate bars!

The B is watched over by “guardian angel”, model and philanthropist Petra Nemcova; a nod to the cruising tradition of naming “godmothers” as vessel ambassadors.

Sailings on The B and U’s second ship, The A, begin in April. There are four eight-day itineraries: The B travels from Paris and back again with The Seine Experience while the remaining three itineraries –Rolling on the Rhine (Amsterdam to Frankfurt), Germany’s Finest (Frankfurt to Regensburg), and The Danube Flow (Regensburg to Budapest) – are courtesy of The A. Overnight stops and longer stays are available in major cities including Paris, Vienna, Amsterdam and Budapest.

Two five-day festive cruises – Dashing Through the Danube (Regensburg to Budapest) and A Merry Little Christmas Cruise (Budapest to Budapest) are available in December. uniworld.com

THE MOST INCLUSIVE LUXURY EXPERIENCE™

Next Top HOTEL LEFT BANK, PARIS

Lutetia

Paris overwhelms with both grand palace hotels and glamorous little boltholes, making the decision of where to stay positively nerve-wracking. Adding to the dilemma is Lutetia, reopening this European spring.

Built originally in 1910 to complement Paris’s first grand department store, Le Bon Marché, the grand Hotel Lutetia (the original Roman name for Paris) was the second landmark to light up the Left Bank.

The modern hotel dared to be different, and the design motif exchanged ubiquitous Art Nouveau for the emerging slick styling of Art Deco. Guests included Hemingway, Picasso, Matisse and Josephine Baker. Lutetia had dark days; it was HQ for German Intelligence during the

Occupation. But the people behind Amsterdam’s Conservatorium and London’s Hotel Café Royal, two immaculately reimagined hotels, have dedicated their skills to renovating and remaking Hotel Lutetia in all her early glory.

The Grand ‘Dame’ (or should it now be ‘Mademoiselle’?) has 184 bedrooms, including 47 suites, two of them penthouses with private access to terraces for the classic Paris view, mais oui.

The Lutetia Brasserie has returned under the watchful eye of threeMichelin-starred chef, Gérald Passédat. We love the idea of the Akasha Holistic Wellbeing Centre, which features a swimming pool illuminated by natural light, in the city of light. hotellutetia.com

THE MOST INCLUSIVE LUXURY SUITES IN THE WORLD

Imagine a suite that offers you more than you can ever believe and where every imaginable amenity is included aboard Regent Seven Seas Cruises®, The Most Inclusive Luxury Experience™. Where your dedicated Butler anticipates your every whim, and beautiful marble appointments and sumptuous Savoir bedding are only the beginning. Spend your days exploring over 450 of the world’s most alluring destinations, with unlimited shore excursions in every port of call, and your evenings in your palatial yet intimate suite, adorned with rare, one-of-a-kind artwork and custom-crafted designer furnishings.

With exquisite all-suite, all-balcony accommodation across The World’s Most Luxurious Fleet, boasting some of the largest balconies at sea, this collection of sophisticated, spacious, all-inclusive suites will exceed even the highest expectations of comfort, service and exclusivity.

This is the ultimate way to sail the world and it’s all included… FOR

LUCY JACKSON

keeps the world moving

“The demand in luxury travel out of the APAC region is driving our tailormade business at a fast pace. In order to fine tune our product portfolio, Lightfoot Travel’s presence at ILTM Asia Pacific is the cornerstone to our product proposition for the year, particularly being based in Asia.”

Lucy Jackson Walsh, Co-founder & Director

Lightfoot Travel (HK) Ltd

DESTINATION

48 Chiang Mai

54 Norway and the Arctic Circle

60 Salvador de Bahia, Brazil city guide

www.iltm.com/asiapacific

Singapore, 21st - 24th May 2018

#keeptheworldmoving

Designer city

From underrated gateway city to flourishing creative hub, Chiang Mai has quickly evolved to become one of Thailand’s hottest destinations, writes

Aaron Peasley

It’s just before 9pm on a Friday night and Chiang Mai’s one kilometre Nimmanhaemin Road – “Nimman” to locals – is buzzing. The chain fashion stores have closed for the evening, but locals and visitors are flocking to the stalls of vendors that have planted their flags on what’s considered Chiang Mai’s coolest precinct. Hipsters sip mojitos as they wander the market and caffeine addicts are getting their late-night fix at Nimman’s renowned cafes, including Ristr8to, the cult roastery known for its latte art and strong single-origin espressos.

This isn’t your standard Southeast Asian night market. I’m yet to see any of the ubiquitous elephant pants, counterfeit designer handbags or paper sky lanterns. Rather, the market exudes the stylish vibe you’d find in parts of Brooklyn or East London. The market happens to be part of the city’s annual Design Week, which celebrates the country’s design scene with exhibitions, workshops and symposia.

Here, the Thai artists, fashion designers and makers I speak with emphasise the festival’s focus, which brings together traditional Thai craftsmanship with innovation and ideas. There’s chic fashion separates in silk, edgy one-of-a-kind handmade pottery and eco beauty products. (It bears mentioning that Thailand’s creative industry is now responsible for more than 13 per cent of the country’s GDP.)

Much like the products being offered, the city of Chiang Mai has become a city defined by the convergence of old and new. Thailand’s second largest city – more of a town, really, when you compare it to traffic-snarled Bangkok – was once an afterthought; a sleepy gateway to the country’s northern jungle country and neighbouring Laos and Myanmar. Yet that’s no longer the case. In a handful of years, humble Chiang Mai has joined the big leagues, evolving into one of the most enticing cities in the world; a special place that operates on its own singular vibration.

The more time I spend in Chiang Mai, the more I realise that this hybrid spirit – avantgarde meets tradition, old-school meets new – is the secret sauce that’s central to its allure.

The city – the capital of the independent Lanna Kingdom until 1558 – has become a priority for many global hotel brands, including Anantara, Shangri-La and the lush Four Seasons. While each property possesses its own charms, I think the city’s most enigmatic and prestigious hotel is 137 Pillars House. The hotel’s 30 guest suites surround an original colonial teak homestead, constructed in 1889 (the hotel takes its name from the number of teak stilts that support the Indo-Portuguese structure).

137 Pillars is known as the erstwhile residence of the son of Anna Leonowens, the iconic Governess of the court of Siam (im -

Left: MAIIAM Contemporary Art Museum Below: Shop in the new artists village close to Doi Suthep, Baan Kang Wat.

CHIANG MAI

mortalised in the films The King and I and Anna and The King ). Later, the property became the headquarters for the English Borneo Trading Company, which accounts for much of the old-world nostalgia-inducing décor. Dinner at the main restaurant, with its gentle spins on Northern Thai classics, should not be missed. Nor should sundowners in the lounge, redolent of the building’s ancient wood walls and dusty ancient books and photographs. Exuding a colonial glamour, the main house is the social heart of the property with resplendent décor that includes overhead timber latticework, 19thcentury artifacts and dreamy art. When will Rudyard Kipling walk in?

Its colonial splendour notwithstanding, 137 Pillars is very much a hotel of the times. In my lavish guest room every conceivable mod con is subtly integrated within the hotel’s aesthetic. The large suites – mine decorated in red and white – boast all the essentials: enormous bathtubs, outdoor rain showers and butlers on call. Once my luggage is delivered, a masseuse is promptly dispatched for a one-hour foot massage (particularly well received after a gruelling early morning hike). At all times the hotel’s grandeur is offset by its incredibly charming staff, whose liveried garb adds to the time-warp ambience. And unlike other boutique hotels, the layout feels village-like and unpretentious even though there’s enough social frisson to keep things interesting (I’m told the cocktail bar is the best place to meet the local movers and shakers).

Life here always feels a little slower, gentler and far more glamorous. This is the kind of place where it feels rude not to kick back with a gin and tonic in the old teak house and read a classic book. I’m also rather taken with the hotel’s magnificent swimming pool. Bordered by a wall of flowering ivy vines, it feels like the ultimate sanctuary – it’s hard to believe the city is buzzing just a few hundred metres away.

Chiang Mai’s incredibly accommodating hotels, in particular 137 Pillars House, are a great antidote to a syndrome I’ve dubbed TF – Temple Fatigue – a common fate that befalls anyone who has spent significant time in Southeast Asia, but it’s important to remember that Chiang Mai also packs a serious cultural punch. After a few hours dozing by the magnificent swimming pool I come to my senses and remember there’s a city to explore. There’s nothing like a misty morning hike, just 309 stairs up the Naga Serpent Staircase, to the sacred Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, Chiang Mai’s most popular temple, which offers a 360-degree panorama of the city. A working monastery, which extends back to the 14th century, the holy site offers an immersion into Northern Thailand’s particular brand of Buddhism. Monks are on hand to offer blessings and consultations for those in need of guidance.

Nourished in both a spiritual and physical sense – the latter on account of an early lunch of Khao Soi noodle soup, the spicy coconut noodle soup omnipresent in Northern Thailand – the afternoon is spent at Baanchang Elephant’s Paradise, an ethically minded refuge that allows visitors to feed and bathe with the animals. Guided by a kind mahout (elephant keeper), we experience washing a baby elephant in the river as a light rain falls among the lush green valley. It’s a transcendent moment that will never be forgotten.

©

137 PILLARS

Left: Phra That Doi Suthep temple is a sacred site to many Thai people;

Above: Entrance to 137 Pillars hotel

But a hot shower and some serious pampering are calling. Back in town, Chiang Mai’s newest boutique hotel is the magnificent Villa Mahabhirom, which offers a complete departure from Lanna architecture. Upon approach, the whitewashed compound appears stealthily slick and a little fortress-like. But what lies beyond its ramparts is truly magical – a 14-guest-room oasis made up of 23 historical Thai ruean thai (family houses) salvaged from villages in central Thailand.

Opened in late 2016 and designed and co-owned by young entrepreneur Pitsanu Sawangnetra, the hotel is an exercise in impeccable style. Each of the hotel’s guest quarters consists of antique houses raised on stilts with an inside-out living room below. Upstairs, there is a cloistered bedroom, private study and enormous Italianmarble tiled bathroom. The villa’s gabled roofs and lush private garden give one the feeling of being put up in an extremely recherché ancient village.

Considering the owners are self-confessed Aman hotel junkies, the property exudes a good deal of glamour and restraint. Making my way past the pool to the hotel’s covered Noppadol Veranda bar, an aperitivo paradise, I can’t help but be enchanted by the designer’s art collection, which is scattered throughout. There are centuries-old Catholic statuary, Buddhist artifacts and work from local artist and sculptor Chamnian Thongma. “It took almost 10 years to collect all the art pieces and antiques, buy up all the traditional Thai houses and restore and build the resort,” one of the owners tells me. “To make the marriage of Thai traditional houses and the rather curious European furniture pieces and antiques possible, we have chosen the simple white walls and the black framings to bind everything together.”

One could spend days wandering the hotel’s curios – and its excellent boutique, which stocks local hill tribe fabrics and jewellery from cult labels Yen and Kitty’s – but the city calls once again. A short stroll away are cafes and yoga studios inhabited by the green juice set, an international crowd that has collectively turned the city into an increasingly world-renowned hotspot. While being holed up in fabulous hotels is always an option, I have to force myself to combine luxury stays with interaction with the city itself. Chiang Mai is now rightly considered a bona fide cosmopolitan hotspot. Given its relative affordability, the Northern Thai city has emerged as something of a global hub, bringing entrepreneurs, makers and so-called “digital nomads”. With a stroll around the old town you’ll discover plenty of co-working spaces and wellness oriented studios and restaurants. Throw in juice bars, independent galleries and exceptional coffee and you have Asia’s coolest small city. But don’t think of Chiang Mai as a city per se – it’s simply a special universe just waiting to be discovered.

To book incredible trips like this, please contact Concierge Traveller on 1800 130 181 or luxurytravel@conciergetraveller.com.au www.conciergetraveller.com.au

Stay

Rates at 137 Pillars House start from THB 13,685 (about A$548), excluding service and tax. 137pillarschiangmai.com

villamahabhirom.com

“To make the marriage of Thai traditional houses and the rather curious European furniture pieces and antiques possible, we have chosen the simple white walls and the black framings to bind everything together.”

Left: Oil painting art in the lobby of Villa Mahabhirom; Above; Bedrooom with Jim Thompson styled headboard.

Fjord land

The Northern Lights are one of the world’s most remarkable attractions, but the magic of Norway extends far beyond the aurora borealis, writes

Kelly Allen .

Inever would have guessed that dashing through the snow with a view of a reindeer’s rear end could elicit so much ecstatic laughter. The combination of adrenaline and bracing cold evokes a euphoria that has my face frozen in a wide smile for the duration of my arctic sleigh ride. I don’t even feel guilty when I am handed a bowl of reindeer stew to help me defrost after the ride. The meat is surprisingly rich and tender, and I manage to gulp down a second bowl while sending a silent apology to the majestic animals that just towed me through the snow.

I am exploring the Arctic Circle and fjords of Norway on a 10-day Abercrombie & Kent itinerary, braving the elements to see reindeer and sled dogs, fjords and steep snow-capped mountains and, with any luck, the elusive Northern Lights. This adventure is the polar opposite to life as I know it in Australia.

My arctic experience begins in Northern Norway in the small town of Tromso, renowned as one of the best vantage points from which to view the Northern Lights. While I’m hoping to catch a glimpse on my first night,

ARCTIC & NORWAY

Photography by Kelly Allen

I seem to have underestimated the difficulty of staying awake when battling the effects of jetlag in a place where the sun barely peeks over the horizon during the day. My body clock takes a while to adjust and I often find myself checking my watch thinking it must be 10pm, only to find it’s barely past midday.

We have three days in Tromso, learning about the history of arctic explorers and the ingenious survival strategies used in the arctic, including seal hunting and dog sledding. But my favourite day is spent with the Sami reindeer herders when I take my first unforgettable reindeer sleigh ride, and eat a lunch of bidos (reindeer stew) with a local family inside a traditional tent.

On our last night in Tromso I am determined to stay up past 9pm to give myself a chance to catch a glimpse of the Northern Lights. Battling the cold, we set out with cameras in hand and high hopes – the clouds have finally lifted and the skies are clear. We board the Tromso Safari bus and have barely left town when we see ‘the lady dance’ as the aurora starts her show. We pull over on the side of the road and watch in awe as a spectacular show of lights literally dances across the sky.

From Tromso, we fly an hour south to Svolvær in the Lofoten Islands, an archipelago of dramatic mountains and small villages where cod fishing is a major industry. The high levels of vitamin D and anti-inflammatory

properties of cod liver oil make it a mainstay of the locals’ health routine and I find myself following suit, taking a shot along with my breakfast each morning.

I spend the next couple of days exploring the archipelago by car, zodiac boat and Icelandic horseback. We pass a pleasant afternoon at a Viking museum in the town of Borg, and another day sharing a home-cooked meal with locals before taking a private tour of Kaviar Factory, a contemporary art gallery housed in an old caviar factory in Henningsaer. Later that evening, we are treated to a private candlelit dinner set in a restored boatshed. We dine on a lavish array of local organic cheeses, reindeer stew, homemade bread, and brownies before spending the night in a remote cabin on the island of Gimsøya. The cabin is cosy, with a wood-burning fire blazing, spectacular views of the open sea and the clear skies treating us to another showing of the Northern Lights.

The next day it is time to leave the Arctic Circle and head further south to Bergen – Norway’s second largest city. Founded almost 1000 years ago, Bergen has a rich history and an impressive mountain landscape, with numerous dramatic fjords to explore as well as the picturesque old Hanseatic Wharf and a bustling fish market. We experience the city’s seafood firsthand at an extrava-

gant lunch on the port, before heading to the home of famous local composer Edvard Grieg for a guided tour. On our second day we take a drive to the island of Selbjørn, where we are treated to a private cooking class with Ørjan Johannessen, the winner of the 2015 Bocuse d’Or, the culinary equivalent of the Olympics. Under Johannessen’s expert guidance we manage to create a crayfish and lobster ravioli from scratch, which we then devour in the adjacent restaurant, Bekkjarvik Gjestgiveri.

After lunch it’s back in the car for a scenic journey to Hotel Ullensvang in Lofthus, where each room boasts a view of a mountain range, glacier, or fjord. The hotel owner, Hans, welcomes us warmly before whisking us away for a scenic helicopter ride. The 20-minute journey shows off the region’s mind-blowing scenery, from towering mountains and vast glaciers to powerful waterfalls and majestic fjords.

Inspired by the fjords we have just viewed from above, we set off to explore them up close on a two-hour cruise. We float leisurely down Aurlandsfjord and the UNESCOlisted Nærøyfjord, taking in the magnificent vistas before disembarking in the quaint village of Flam. The afternoon is spent tasting some of the renowned brews at local microbrewery Aegir, before journeying home on the Flåms-

Above: Fishing town of Henningsvaer;

Right: Sled dog; Far left: Traditional architecture in historic Bergen;

Left: Reindeer sleigh ride

bana (Flåm railway). Named the world’s most incredible train journey by Lonely Planet, the ride takes us to the top of the mountains, where we spot tiny farms clinging to impossibly steep peaks, rivers rushing through deep ravines, and waterfalls thundering down the snowcapped mountains.

Back in Bergen for our last night, a private boat transports us to a seafood restaurant on a remote island 25 minutes from the mainland. Cornelius restaurant serves a meteorological menu, inspired by the weather of the day and crafted around what the ocean has to offer. This fivecourse dinner with paired wines is the finest meal on our 10-day trip. Tuna, scallops, house-smoked salmon and, my favourite, the seared pollock, are all served with perfectly matched wines, impeccable service, and detailed explanations by the chef. As we finish our meals, a serene silence descends over the table. Taking in the expanse of water against an almost unreal backdrop of mountains, fjords and skerries, a wide smile grows on my face. Though the room is perfectly heated and I am utterly still, I have been momentarily transported back to that euphoric sleigh ride in Tromso. The memory is so vivid I can feel the arctic breeze in my hair. I hope it’s a feeling I am able to hold onto when I return to the other side of the earth.

Enquire more about this story at luxurytravelmedia.com.au

Experience

This was a customised private journey designed by experiential travel specialists Abercrombie & Kent. A similar 12-day private journey including stays in Tromso, the Lofoten Islands, Bergen and Lofthus with extensive private touring and winter outdoor adventures is priced from A$19,050 per person twin share. Price includes hotel accomodation, breakfast daily, three lunches, six dinners, private transfers and transport, daily sightseeing and entrance fees. abercrombiekent.com.au

When to go

Norway is a year-round destination. However, the peak season is from mid-June through August when the temperature is at its warmest and the days are long, thanks to the Midnight Sun which keeps darkness at bay. The winter months also hold their own appeal with the Northern Lights a popular attraction.

In full colour

Often overlooked in favour of Brazil’s more renowned destinations, Salvador is an underrated gem packed with character and steeped in history.

By Lucy Jones

If Rio de Janeiro is Brazil’s heart, then Salvador is its soul. There’s less glitz than you’ll find in Rio and less money than in Sao Paolo, but it has an irrepressible spirit that outshines them both.

The people are constantly on the move, dancing through the streets or performing traditional capoeira in the squares. Brilliantly costumed women, wearing the traditional Baiana de Acaraje dress of petticoats and hoop skirts with elaborate head wraps, walk the streets. The city hums with music and drums at all hours of the day and night. Salvador is at once intoxicating and overwhelming. Brace yourself.

Founded by the Portuguese in the mid 16th century, Salvador is one of the oldest colonial cities in the Americas and was the first capital of Brazil. But behind the brightly coloured facades lie some dark secrets; Salvador is a city built on human suffering. The first slave market in the New World opened here in 1558 and over the next 300 years more than 3.5 million slaves passed through it. Slavery was abolished in Brazil just 130 years ago and, as a result, Bahia is still the most African of the states. Around 80 per cent of Salvador’s population is of African descent. Today, the city is split across two levels, the upper and lower town. They are connected by the striking Elevador Lacerda, a 70-metre high elevator built in 1873 and still in use today. The old town, Pelourinho, is in the upper section, made up of narrow winding streets, cobblestone squares, ornate stone churches and colonial buildings in a rainbow of pastels. More modern suburbs and high rises line the lower part of town, running along the coast. Salvador is a beach town, and they are heaving. Here, beaches are not just a place to sunbake. They are a place to meet friends and family, play music, dance, drink beer, barbecue and flash plenty of flesh in the skimpiest of swimsuits.

SEE & EXPLORE

Brazil is the world’s largest Catholic country and a nation deeply tied to its faith. In Salvador, elements of Catholicism have been incorporated into the local Afro-American religion, Candomblé. It brings together different tribal beliefs from across Africa, incorporating them within the Catholic faith of the colonising Portuguese. Saints become orixas, or gods, who form a link between humans and the spirit world. At the grand Church of Nosso Senhor do Bonfim, one of Salvador’s most famous Catholic churches, a sea of coloured ribbons flutter along the fence. Each of these ribbons is a prayer dedicated to an orixa, asking for healing or love or hope. Local superstition has it that you tie an appropriate ribbon to your wrist and when it comes off naturally (which could be many weeks later) your wish will be granted.

Get a glimpse of Bahia’s rich multicultural history at the Balé Folclorico da Bahia, a folk performance held in a small theatre in Pelourinho. It’s a captivating performance of traditional stories, songs and dances, with elements of the Candomblé (including appearances by some of the orixas) and capoeira, as well as incredible feats of athleticism. It’s loud and joyful, and always met with a well-

deserved standing ovation.

The historic Fort de São Diogo, on the edge of Barra Beach, dates back to the early 17th century. In 2016 it was given a modern update and now houses the Carybe Space of Arts. Carybe is one of Bahia’s most famous contemporary artists, working as a painter, sculptor, illustrator, engraver and potter. Born in Buenos Aires, Carybe fell in love with the spirit of Bahia, and later became a Brazilian citizen. He produced over 5000 works capturing the vibrancy of the Afro-Brazilian culture. The museum is only small but has some impressive interactive technology, though much of it is available only in Portuguese.

EAT & DRINK

Head to the night markets at to sample Salvador’s most famous street snack, acaraje. A sort of Afro-Brazilian falafel, acaraje are made from crushed black beans shaped into a ball, stuffed with dried shrimp, onion or spices, and deep fried in red palm oil. Grab a seat at one of the plastic tables and wash it down with an ice cold beer.

For a more high-end take on Bahian cuisine, visit Casa de Tereza, just around the corner from the markets. The eclectic dining room is decorated with local artworks and

Beforeyou go

Vaccinations

handicrafts (there’s an adjoining shop if you want to take some home). Order the Bahian tasting menu for bubbling pots of moqueca (a rich fish stew), feijoada (black beans with pork), fried croquettes, chopped steak and fried manioc, all washed down with an excellent South American red.

Brazilians are known for their sweet tooth, so don’t miss a stop at Sorveteria da Ribeira, an historic ice cream parlour in the lower town. There are more than 60 flavours available, most of them made with tropical fruits like banana, mango, coconut and pineapple, as well as South American natives acai berries and biribiri (a bit like a sour starfruit).

You will need a yellow fever vaccination when travelling to Brazil. It is very unlikely that you will be exposed to the disease, however immigration officials will insist on seeing a vaccination certificate when you return to Australia. Malaria and zika are also virtually non-existent in Salvador itself, however you may need to take precautions if you travel further afield.

Visa

In December 2017 the Brazilian government launched an online visa application for Australian travellers, replacing the previous time-consuming system of postal or in-person applications. Electronic applications are assessed within 72 hours and travellers can spend 90 days in the country.

LOCAL TIPS

Learn the secrets of Bahian cuisine in the home of local artist

Maria Adair

Cooking classes are run by her daughter, Moema Brocchini, who guides groups through the preparation of traditional dishes in the bright, airy kitchen before sitting down to a sumptuous meal overlooking the rooftops of the city. The house is a gallery in itself, every chair and table and spoon painted with Maria’s signature bold colours, and you can also take a look at her studio on the ground floor.

Learn the ancient martial art of capoeira

The martial art of capoeira, a combination of ritual dance, acrobatics and fighting, is another legacy of Salvador’s time as a slave capital. While its history is debated, it is widely believed to have been developed by Angolan slaves in Brazil in the 16th century. Learn the basics at the Fundacao Internacional de Capoeira, a studio housed in a scruffy building close to the Lapa Central Station. Master Valmir is a world-renowned expert and (when he is in town) takes students from all over the world through the measured – yet deceptively challenging – moves.

STAY

Sitting next to the soaring Sao Francisco church and convent in the heart of Pelourinho is La Villa Bahia. Set inside two adjoining colonial villas from the 17th and 18th centuries, it’s a sleepy, leafy escape from the searing heat and bustling crowds. There are 17 rooms spread across three floors, each with a unique layout and themed around different periods of the city’s history. The rooms on the top floor have small terraces and are worth the trek if the power goes out (which it often does). Be-

Adventure World's Salvador

hind the excellent restaurant is a tiny whitewalled courtyard and an even tinier plunge pool (a rarity in this part of Salvador). There’s also a rooftop courtyard with chairs and a couple of daybeds, as well as incredible views over the old town. Bear in mind that all that greenery also attracts mosquitoes, so apply a good layer of insect repellant.

In the evening, order a glass of wine and sit in the window of the bar, overlooking the square. Groups of men gather in the dim streetlights to play cards or dice games, children run squealing across the cobblestones, and the sound of drums rumbles through the narrow streets.

Adventure World’s Salvador itineraries are all tailor-made and start from 3 nights, including authentic accommodation, a walking tour of the city and visits to main attractions. Prices start from $825 for a 3-night’s stay. See adventureworld.com.au or call 1300 295 049

The world’s most luxurious addresses with our unmatched complimentary offers. Once in a lifetime customised itineraries from our award-winning specialised agents. The latest premium inflight products and onboard offers available to luxury travellers.

Never miss out on a exclusive offer. Visit

Rekindle the wonder of travel with Inspiring Journeys as we showcase the best Australia and New Zealand has on offer with our immersive experiences. Interact and connect with your surrounds, discover hidden gems and allow us to share our unparalleled wealth of expertise to create a journey that is truly unforgettable.

Discover

Scratch beneath the surface and discover special places that few have had an opportunity to encounter without the guiding hand of an expert.

Explore

Interact and connect with your surrounds, uncovering insider experiences that any local would be proud to share with their treasured guests.

Immerse

Be immersed in all the fascinating layers of a destination – the ancient and contemporary culture, centuries old heritage and the stories that make a place unique.

BESTSELLER BESTSELLER NEW

Kakadu’s Ancient Secrets

5 Days • Darwin • Mary River • Kakadu

Katherine Gorge • Litchfield

Venture to Australia’s Top End, through the untamed wilderness of Kakadu – a landscape of billabongs, gorges and hidden canyons.

Relax

Take time to relax and reflect on your spectacular surrounds. Our journeys are designed with flexibility in mind, giving you time to unwind and enjoy the destination.

Outback Australia: The Colour of Red

5 Days • Ulu r u • Kata Tju t a • Kings Canyon

Alice Springs • West MacDonnell Ranges

Journey to the Red Centre of Australia and delve into the sacred landscapes, iconic sights and spiritual connections of the Outback.

Victoria’s Hidden Gems

7 Days • Melbourne • Daylesford • Dunkeld

The Grampians • Great Ocean Road

From trendy cityscapes to quaint villages, scenic coastal drives to white-capped surf, Victoria’s charm is revealed on this Inspiring Journey.

From $3050 per person twin share land only From $2450 per person twin share land only From $3525 per person twin share land only

Start exploring at inspiringjourneys.com, call 1300 228 546 or see your local travel agent

Terms & Conditions apply. Visit www.inspiringjourneys.com/booking-conditions.

70 Yacht | Italian coast

76 Cruise | southern Australia

82 Bike | Sicily

90 High Flyer | News and reviews

Enlightened Cruising

Reminiscent of an earlier era of sailing, the handcrafted Satori might very well be the most eyecatching yacht at sea. Lee Tulloch spent a blissful couple of days aboard the Orient Express of the waves.

It’s a Sunday morning off the coast of Italy and there’s a light breeze teasing the sails of Satori as the 41.5-metre luxury schooner cuts an elegant swathe through the rising waves. I’ve lazily annexed the day bed at the stern of the yacht while the crew does the hard work of keeping her distant from the other craft, fishing boats and mega yachts alike, that are out cruising the isle of Elba this day.

As sailing vessels go, Satori is one of the most beautiful boats on these waters and I’m aware how privileged I am this summer morning, especially as I have the yacht and crew of six (it’s usually eight, with a masseur as the ninth) all to myself. The owners, Danish hoteliers and property developers Jeanette and Claus Thottrup, have departed with the other guests. My husband is out on the tender, photographing Satori as she sails. Captain Ali and his crew, who are Turkish, are relaxed and easy to be with, happy to engage or leave me alone, whichever I wish. I choose to be alone. Who wouldn’t? For a little while, it’s easy to pretend that I don’t have a care in the world.

Satori, in Japanese, means ‘instant enlightenment’ and that’s what Jeanette experienced one summer when Claus, a keen sailor, rented a traditional wooden yacht, a gulet off the coast of Turkey. Jeanette was not so interested in sailing until this moment. Finding that she loved the life of living on the deck of the simple boat, she agreed with Claus that perhaps one day they should design and build their own yacht. "That 'what if?' eventually materialised into Satori," Jeanette says. It took ten years.

Photography by Tony Amos

In 2008 Jeanette and Claus opened Borgo Santo Pietro, one of Tuscany’s finest hotels, a restoration of a 13th Century country estate near Chiusdino. It’s not far from there to the port of Scalino, where Satori is anchored, so we spend a night in a ravishingly decorated pool villa before transferring to the yacht. Jeanette’s background is in fashion design and trend forecasting, and her sumptuous interiors for the award-winning country hotel are testament to her refined taste. Satori was never going to be one of the ‘modern-looking things everyone is trying to design,’ she says. The yacht’s style is reminiscent of a more elegant era of sailing. The solid mahogany hull, teak floors, walnut panelling, hand finished interiors and vintage-style deck chairs bring to mind the sort of craft one might have found moored in the Italian Riviera during the 1930s to 1950s. Yet the technology is cutting edge, rivalling that of the mega yachts that lurk in the Mediterranean. The couple’s ambition to build a kind of Orient Express of the waves ran into a few hiccups along the way. "All the old trades are dying out," Jeanette says. "Lots of things are being lost overnight in this world of super money."

Attempting a different product was not easy. "Everybody said, 'You can’t do it'." The timber hull, the open kitchen on the midship deck, even the clever cellar hidden under the stairs are all innovative features which are not found in traditional charters. The Thottrups had to establish their own ship building company to achieve what they wanted in the end.

Satori’s base fares start at €99,000 per week. With food, wine, fuel, agency fees, harbour fees, the inclusive cost is more like €140,000 with tips on top, depending on the amount of sailing and other variables. So it’s within the reach of a very few. "People with lots of money who want to travel differently," is how Claus describes them.

I might as well take advantage of every minute on board, as I won’t sail on its like again. With my husband, we have taken up residence in the spacious master bedroom, which has a custom-designed freestanding walnut bath, a king-sized bed, expansive banquettes along the windows, a serious desk for those who must work aboard and his-and-her bathroom vanities flanking a huge marble shower stall.

Three other guest rooms feature queen-sized beds with hand crafted orthopaedic mattresses, marble bathrooms, flat screen TVs, iPads loaded with movies, Sonos sound systems, and Apple TVs for streaming via satellite. The tiny spa with its steam room can be transformed into a bedroom if necessary. "For me what’s really important is that you don’t go into a

cabin, you go into a room. It’s the lateral space for me that makes it beautiful," Jeanette says.

The Thottrup brand of hospitality is relaxed and unpretentious. Up on deck, guests can lounge on comfortable sofas and watch TV, play games, read books or dine indoors if the weather is cool. Details are perfect, including the lighting, which is pre-set to moods so that the staff don’t get it wrong. Each piece of furniture, every object, each framed photographic print, is personally chosen.

Unusually for a yacht, the galley and al fresco dining table are situated midship, which allows for greater privacy when in port. The large, gleaming open kitchen means the guests can watch the food being prepared and interact with the chefs.

The Thottrups own two Michelinstarred restaurants, both operated by young chefs – Meo Modo, the fine dining restaurant at Borgo Santo Pietro, helmed by Andrea Mattei, and La Bottega del Buon Caffé in Florence, headed by Antonello Sardi. Both restaurants feature organic produce from the borgo’s farm. A feature of Satori is that a chef trained in the kitchen of one of these restaurants will be on board for every charter.

On the daily menus are ‘gourmet experiences’ which include dishes devised by both chefs, perhaps pigeon with chestnuts and spinach, asparagus risotto with liquorice and mint or a signature lobster spaghetti, bursting with an obscene amount of juicy crustacean flesh. The chefs improvise happily and will share their recipes and skills for those inclined to take a cooking class.

The yacht’s custom designed, air-conditioned wine cellar under the stairs has a 200-bottle capacity. Guests can supply their own in a kind of upscale BYO, but from my experience leaving the selection to Satori’s sommeliers is a good idea, as some superb Tuscan wines are on offer. My favourite meal is breakfast, when a selection of flavourful savoury and sweet dishes are laid out buffet style outside the galley. The borgo’s superb pastry chef, Diego Poli, supplies pastries and cakes and on offer are fresh cut fruits, homemade jams and cereal blends, honey, cheese and butter from the farm, plus cooked dishes, including fresh eggs from the chicken coops at the borgo.

If guests are interested in activities on shore, bespoke itineraries are happily arranged. The steward provides extensive concierge services and, from what I could see, nothing was too much trouble. Multigenerational travel is welcomed, with an extra security mesh affixed if there are small children.

Above: Satori’s elegant master bedroom which comes with a walnut tub

Right: Old fashioned deck chairs on teak decks

Right: Chef Andrea Mattei prepares breakfast outside the midship galley

Below: Daybeds in the outdoor bar/lounge at the ship’s stern

There are plenty of places aboard to sunbathe and lounge. But for more active guests there is an impressive collection of water toys, from water skis and kayaks to wake boards and snorkelling equipment. The adventurous might like to try out one of two Yamaha Superjet Jet Skis and two Cayago F5S Seabobs, a kind of underwater scooter. Also provided electric bicycles for shore excursions and an Optimist dinghy for lessons for first-time sailors and children.

At night time, if the stars aren’t enough, there’s an outdoor cinema with a choice of almost 100 movies and accompanied by hot popcorn from the galley. But, as it is always the way when the food is healthy and the air is fresh and salty, sleep comes easily on board Satori.

‘Luxury for me is all the things I can’t see,’ Jeanette says. ‘The new luxury is old fashioned hospitality, someone saying “Let me take care of you when you’re here.” For me, it’s the small details.’

If Satori is not your speed, a few days on terra firma at Borgo Santo Pietro is a perfectly lovely way to experience generous Tuscan style.

See more images from this story at luxurytravelmedia.com.au

Stay

For further information and reservations, please visit satori.com For Borgo Santo Pietro: borgosantopietro.com

This page: Satori’s creators, Claus and Jeanette Thottrup

Southern beauty

Rugged, barely touched and teeming with friendly sea creatures … few places offer oceanic splendour quite like southern Australia. Susan Skelly romances the remote aboard True North.

The southern bluefin tuna is said to be the fourth fastest fish on the planet. Some call it the Ferrari of the ocean. Right now, a gang of them swims just a foot from my face. In profile, they are magnificent – each a 40-odd kilogram torpedo in slick bluebronze and pewter, all bulging muscle with a confidence that comes from being a species that delivers the most in-demand premium-grade sashimi in the world. From above, yellow finlets give them dot-painting cachet.

The tuna swish through a mob of trevally glittering in the morning sun in an undersea pen built by Yasmin and Mick Dyer of Oceanic Victor, anchored in Victor Harbor on South Australia’s Fleurieu Peninsula.

The 50-metre adventure cruiser, True North, has anchored just off Granite Island in Victor Harbor with the tuna’s next audience. They are ready to swim with, and hand-feed, some 80 southern bluefins, or just gaze upon them from an underwater portal.

Guests have spent the previous day in the Barossa Valley checking out the wine world’s similarly prized exports. It is the start of True North’s annual eight-night ‘Southern Safari’, which dips in and out of the north, west and east coasts of Kangaroo Island, the lower Eyre Peninsula, the oyster capitals of Coffin Bay and Streaky Bay and, along the way to Ceduna, remote islands in the Great Australian Bight.

Swimming with our underwater companions is top of the agenda – with New Zealand fur seals, Australian sea lions, dolphins and, separated by a sturdy viewing cage and thick wetsuits, great white sharks. Dolphins are surely the ocean’s happiness pills; seals turn out to be hilarious in the way they mimic – you roll, they roll; white pointer sharks are surprisingly quiet and graceful – and utterly chilling. We see an abundance of pelicans, cormorants, terns, raptors, and the odd little penguin, also known as fairy penguins. We will bounce across bays in our tender boat and wade into the blue, blue waters of dreamy, barely populated beaches.

A true adventure

Australia’s rugged, idiosyncratic southern coastline offers several perspectives. But whether it’s seen from underwater, from the shoreline, from atop a mountain, or from a helicopter cruising at about 300 metres, you hit the jackpot.

This isn’t the kind of travel that deposits you at the epicentre of your comfort zone. The philosophy here is to place you on the outer rim of comfort; to push boundaries, and feel proud you did. Espresso-drinking urbanites find themselves fishing, mud crabbing, rock climbing, hiking, learning to paddleboard. There’s an itinerary but, as cap-

tain Gavin Graham explains from the hi-tech bridge, it’s subject to change as winds, tides and unexpected opportunities dictate.

True North Adventure Cruises started life as North Star Cruises Australia, the brainchild of Broome-based director Craig Howson. His enterprise recently celebrated its 30th anniversary while the luxury explorer is now in its fourth incarnation. In 2016, Howson received the Medal of the Order of Australia (OAM) for services to tourism in Western Australia.

“We are very different from a big-ship holiday,” Howson explains. “Our itineraries are always activity-based and much more suited to travellers looking for a holiday that is also a rewarding experience. We can go where other cruise ships can’t.”

The ship has 18 cabins over three decks (top deck, top price), a spacious lounge, dining room, deck areas to find solitude on, six workhorse tenders, and usually a chopper on the roof.

Cabins are elegant minimalism with plenty of storage. Housekeeping fairies keep it ship-shape and supplied toiletries are L’Occitane. The crew of 20 is skilled, respectful, reactive and informed. On-board naturalist Natalie Hill, who can tell a fur seal from a sea lion, is a person you want on your trivia night team.

The food on board is surprising, creative and flexible, much of it sourced from the larder that surrounds the boat – King George whiting, flathead, squid, abalone, oysters, and blue swimmer crabs among the fresh flavours. Bar snacks might include pickled octopus, caught by the anglers. Toast the day’s efforts with a mango daiquiri, espresso martini or the bottle of Central Otago pinot noir. After just three days, being on True North starts to feel like a school reunion. Which it often is; she has a recidivist

clientele. One couple recently booked their 30th trip, and more than 100 people have embarked 10 times. The demographic is one that’s well travelled, well heeled, and keen on once-in-a-lifetime experiences.

And there is an abundance of those. After exploring Australia’s southern coastline in January, True North takes a break for a refit before cruising WA’s south-west coast in March. It’s in its Kimberley element from March to September, before heading to Broome and the coral atolls of Rowley Shoals, then onto Indonesia for Komodo dragons, volcanic history, snorkelling and whale sharks until November. The culturally fascinating Papua New Guinea and Melanesia take up December and, if you want fireworks, there’s a Sydney New Year’s Eve package.

A coastline for explorers

Matthew Flinders is the poster boy of the Eyre, Yorke and Fleurieu peninsulas, and the gulfs they sit in. The mapping the English explorer did of a then-unknown coastline while captaining the Investigator in 1801 and ‘02 has stood the test of time and technology.

Landmarks Catastrophe Bay, Point Avoid, and Memory Cove (a tribute to drowned sailors) are a reminder of the degree of difficulty.

We survey a few remote islands ourselves, relishing their sealife, wildlife and birdlife.

Kangaroo Island is home to a subspecies of the western grey kangaroo, except they’re a very dark brown. Sleepy koalas in the Hanson Park Wildlife Sanctuary are postcard cute. Square backsides! Who knew? The island, Australia’s third largest behind Tasmania and Melville Island, is also home to the platypus, tammar wallaby, black swan, and the truly wondrous echidna, which wakes up to bad hair every day of its life.

Artisan producers on Kangaroo Island collect Ligurian honey and lavender, make cheese and yoghurt, distil spirits and eucalyptus oil, brew beer, grow grapes for wine, and shuck oysters. In the south-west of the island, the 500-million-year-old Remarkable Rocks and the stalactite ‘mouth’ of Admirals Arch are geology at its most awesome.

The Neptune Islands, 70 kilometres south of Port Lincoln, are home to fur seals, sea lions, rock parrots, ospreys and the odd albatross. There’s nothing but ocean forever, as the True North guests prep for their shark-watch. It’s the one place in Australia where cage diving is permitted. We descend by ladder, weighted and well insulated, to a submerged cage and wait for white pointers to glide by. Underwater scenes for the 1974 blockbuster, Jaws, were filmed here.

Pearson Island, 63 kilometres off Cape Finniss, on the western side of the Eyre Peninsula, might as well be a casting session for Galapagos Down Under. Separated from the mainland for more than 10,500 years, it is a bio-control playground for rock wallabies, sea lions, fur seals, little penguins and lizards. There is also a unique stand of she-oaks.

Some call what follows our disembarkation from the tenders here a comfortable walk over granite rocks, while for others (that’s me) it’s one year’s exercise rolled into three hours. The adventurer who has trekked the Annapurna Circuit and crewed on the Clipper Round The World Yacht Race dubs it ‘a scramble’. Either way, the goal is Hill 781 (named for its height in feet), 238 metres above sea level. Pearson Island’s highest point has panoramic views to the other three islands in the Pearson Isles group. From Flinders Island later in the day, Howson, who

is on board along with general manager Chad Avenell and their families, radios the tenders to check on the fish tally. The King George whiting are all but jumping into the boat along with the odd squid. No one is going hungry tonight.

We can’t go ashore on the Franklin Islands. Part of the Nuyts Archipelago Conservation Park, it is the last habitat of the greater stick-nest rat, and until Great Australian Bight park rangers can ascertain how its numbers are faring, it’s a prohibited area. But it’s a seductive place from the sea – all granite boulders, limestone, sand bars and aquamarine waters. Bobbing about in a sensuous afternoon sun, we watch fur seals down fish in one gulp and clap pods of dolphins to the surface for their photo shoot.

During the voyage, several silky beaches are roadtested. On Red House Bay beach, at the eastern end of Kangaroo Island, it’s just True North beachcombers, three sheep, and a party of tuna wranglers on their day off, plus delicate chattering wrens with electric-blue heads. On the beach at Memory Cove, the deck chairs are lined up, cricket is in play, the paddleboards are out and pelicans are posing. Cocktails and tempura prawns are handed around. Now that’s Southern style.

From Farm Beach one afternoon, after a morning spent learning about the trials and triumphs of the oyster industry and sampling Coffin Bay’s bounty, it’s time for the bird’s-eye view.

Henry Riggs pilots his Helivista helicopter southwest from Farm Beach over a lime green sea hosting schools of salmon, a grid of oyster leases, the odd stingray, and a lone abalone runabout.

A half hour reconnaissance takes in Point Sir Isaac to the north, Point Whidbey to the south, and a frothy line of speedboat wake down the middle. Below is Coffin Bay town and old rock fences that indicate yesteryear’s farming.

Two bays around from our landing spot is the beach where the 1981 film, Gallipoli, was shot. And that’s the thing about this part of the world. It’s endlessly photogenic, practised in nuance, and with a cast of thousands forever ready for their close-up.

Bite-sized Barossa

Top or tail your voyage with an indulgent couple of days in the Barossa Valley

Where to stay

The Louise

Banks of agapanthus are the summer welcome at this five-star property. A founding member of the Luxury Lodges of Australia portfolio, The Louise has just 15 suites as well as a pool, sun beds, sauna, cool boutique and an art collection curated by co-owner Helen Carreker. With a charcoal, dove grey and crisp white palette, the luxurious rooms have views to the vineyards, a courtyard or two, Bose music system, a beckoning bathroom, plus good reading, eating and drinking. The in-suite breakfast of fresh juice and egg and smoky bacon tart with a dinky side casserole of baked beans is delicious. Rooms start at A$585 per night.thelouise.com.au

Where to eat

Appellation

This is The Louise’s hatted fine diner. A four-course degustation for $135 might include cured kangaroo with native currants, a very pretty greenlip abalone on sweet pea puree, the region’s famous King George whiting, and a sorbet sensation combining wild fennel, apple and ginger. Matching wine is $60 and optional. Ryan Edwards is executive chef while sommelier James Boden has overseen the extensive wine list since January. thelouise.com.au

Local foodies concur that joining Appellation on Barossa’s best list is FermentAsian (Tanunda), 1918 (Tanunda), St Hugo Restaurant (Rowland Flat), Vintners Bar & Grill (Angaston), Hentley Farm Restaurant (Seppeltsfield), El Estanco (Greenock), and 40s Café (Angaston, for pizza).

What to do

Life is a Cabernet

Ralf Hadzic knows the Barossa’s secrets and he’s willing to share them. Life is a Cabernet can take charge of your pick-ups, itineraries and wine tours, organise freight and even conjure up a celebrant to marry you! lifeisacabernet.com.au

Enjoy a local drop

At last count there were 46 cellar doors in the Barossa. Really, you can’t go wrong. But, just down the road from The Louise, in Marananaga, Two Hands Wines makes sense. They’ll pick you up for a short, medium or long day tour that takes in vineyards, views, barrel tastings and a cellar door recce. Souvenir?

Two Hands’ Holy Grail Shiraz, $100. twohandswines.com

Cooking class

Opened at Nuriootpa late last year, The Eatery is a casual version of Maggie Beer’s famous Pheasant Farm. Run by Beer’s daughter, Elli Beer, the casual lunch spot doubles as a cooking school headed by chef Tim Bourke (formerly Kangaroo Island’s Southern Ocean Lodge). Learn clever dinner party tricks such as a handrolled pasta with kale pesto and fresh ricotta. thefarmeatery.com

DEVELOPMENT AUSTRALIA WHYALLA AND EYRE PENINSULA (RDAWEP)

Step up a gear

The sights and flavours of Sicily’s south-east corner are only enhanced when explored on two wheels, discovers Gary Allen

Photography by DuVine

I’m surrounded by kilometres of orange orchards and olive groves, and take in the fresh, citrus scent as I continue cycling down through the gently undulating hills. I pass by a farmer; we exchange smiles and waves as I push on. It’s a beautiful, sunny day in Sicily – no clouds in the sky – perfect for being outdoors on a bike. The Mediterranean sparkles in the distance. Our destination is a small seaside village restaurant where an afternoon banquet of pasta, fresh seafood and wine is being enthusiastically prepared for our arrival. This is what it’s all about: ride hard and be rewarded with incredible food and wine. And indulge as much as you like because you work it off on the road (or, at least, this is what we tell ourselves).

Cycling tours are gaining popularity among luxury travellers, and it’s easy to see why. Riding a pushbike between lavish hotels, all the while dining on local specialties and enjoying intimate tastings of Italian wines, is luxury travel on a different level.

With 21 years’ experience, specialist tour company DuVine is doing it right. My state-of-the-art Cannondale road bike is waiting for me when I arrive, along with my helmet and a DuVine biking jersey. I lift the bike with a finger – feather-light – and the gears shift for me with the slightest touch. Aware of the Sicilian hills that lie ahead, I know I’m going to appreciate this over the next five days.

The Sicily Bike Tour begins on the island’s east coast in the ancient port city of Catania, where our guides, Guido and Marco, greet us. We spend the first couple of nights at Borgo Alveria, a restored former monastery built in 1451, just outside the town of Noto. We bike out each morning, embarking on day rides to various villages, and feasting on dinners in local farmhouses.

We then ride to the charming historic city of Ragusa, staying at the Relais Antica Badia. Overlooking the cathedral of San Giovanni, the hotel was the city’s first baroque building and originally home to Ragusa’s founder. Our windows offer uninterrupted views of the old town, which can be reached via ancient alleyways and winding flights of stairs.

With an afternoon and evening at our leisure, some of the group decide to explore the old town, where we enjoy local delicacies such as pasta with donkey meat sauce. Led by curiosity, I find the meal unexpectedly delicious to the very last bite.

The following morning we head out to Castello Camemi, a beautiful boutique hotel in the hills of Val di Noto. Farmland and vineyards surround this 14th-century residence, our base for the final few nights. We ride into the surrounding countryside villages – indulging again in amazing Sicilian food and wine.

Invasion and conquest feature heavily in Sicily’s history books, and as I bike along these roads I imagine the many battles fought here and the blood spilled. Now though, I am surrounded by countryside filled with peaceful vineyards, orchards, farms and villages.

Each evening I feel a sense of accomplishment after another day of riding, and beating the physical and mental challenges on the hills. The rides here can be tough, but they are very different to those difficult, traffic-laden journeys in my home city of Sydney, and our group gets through it. We are all bike enthusiasts on this tour, and many of us have been on previous

The following morning we head out to Castello Camemi, a beautiful boutique hotel in the hills of Val di Noto. Farmland and vineyards surround this 14th-century residence, our base for the final few nights. We ride into the surrounding countryside villages – indulging again in amazing Sicilian food and wine.

cycle tours, with DuVine and other companies. If biking isn’t your thing, electric bikes are also available, providing that little bit of assistance for climbing hills. You still need to pedal, but they can give you a push. And if at any time you don’t feel like riding, the van is on standby.

While the biking is the star of this journey, the meals are also a highlight – whether at a small, secluded restaurant in a country village, or a local farmhouse, where all ingredients are sourced from the farm itself or the surrounding properties. Wine is also a focus for DuVine. We toured some of the local winemaking facilities and enjoyed paired lunches alongside the specialty wines.

The people, laid back and welcoming, also leave their mark. During one of our breaks in a small country village we stopped for a mid-morning coffee. An old man, dressed beautifully in a suit and tie, heard I was from Australia and made a point of introducing himself. Wearing a big smile, he shook my hand with great delight, as if we were old friends. Our guide Marco explained that this man had lived in Australia for a short time after the war. He loved it and had fond memories. About his part of the world, I felt very much the same.

To book incredible trips like this, please contact Concierge Traveller on 1800 130 181 or luxurytravel@conciergetraveller.com.au www.conciergetraveller.com.au

Experience

DuVine's six day Sicily Bike Tour starts at US$4,795 (about A$6,122) per person for a couple. duvine.com

Right: Riding through the Sicilian countryside;

Far right: Stop for lunch at the fishing village of Marzamemi;

Below: Views of the hills from Castello Camemi;

Bottom right: Wine tasting at Nero d'Avolas.

77-NIGHT REGENT SEVEN SEAS VOYAGE FOR 2019

Regent Seven Seas Cruises has announced an epic 77-night Grand Arctic Quest itinerary, departing London on 18 June, 2019 bound for New York City aboard the intimate, all-suite and refurbished Seven Seas Navigator. Guests will sail to the British Isles, Iceland, Scandinavia, Greenland and New England, taking in windswept coastal villages, remote islands, spectacular waterways and distinctive cities, including Reykjavik, Iceland’s cosmopolitan capital.

The Grand Arctic Quest itinerary takes in Iceland’s hot springs, Norway, the historic architectural delights of Denmark and Belgium, the remote Russian Solovetsky Islands, the Atlantic seaboard and Boston, before finally arriving into New York City.

Deluxe Veranda Suites start from AUD$47,870 per person twin share. rssc.com

SILVERSEA LAUNCHES IMMERSIVE 2018 EXPEDITION COLLECTION

‘The Rarest Pearls’ is Silversea’s new 2018 collection of nine expedition voyages aboard Silver Discoverer, each one carefully curated by the cruise line’s Expedition Team, and designed to immerse guests in experiences beyond the offerings of a ‘typical’ cruise.

“We have sought the wonders of man and nature and scouted the most idyllic, unspoiled beauty spots. Leaving the tourist trail far behind, these nine unique voyages have been carefully curated to provide our guests with the rarest pearls the world has to offer,” said Conrad Combrink, Silversea’s Senior Vice President of Expedition & Experience Product Development.

Japan & The Philippines, Solomon Islands & Vanuatu, and Papua New Guinea are among the voyages setting sail from a variety of international ports, from April 2018. silversea.com

A GOLF VACATION WITH A DIFFERENCE

“The Number 1 Golf Travel people in Australia and probably beyond. Stuart & his team don’t leave any stone unturned when creating absolutely memorable Golf travel experiences”

A breathtaking 5 star luxury river cruise that combines four of Europe’s finest golf courses

6-STAR SCENIC ECLIPSE II ANNOUNCED FOR 2020

The 6-star Scenic Eclipse – the World’s First Discovery Yacht, launching August 2018 – will be joined by a sister ship,  Scenic Eclipse II,  in May 2020. Eclipse II will make her inaugural voyage from Athens to Lisbon; while her maiden season will feature the European and Russian Arctic. Itineraries will include remote destinations including Russia’s White Sea, Southern Greenland, the Northwest Passage, and Alaska to Russia across the Bering Sea. Building of Eclipse II will commence 2019 in Pula, Croatia, where Scenic Eclipse is currently under construction.

PANORAMA SUITE

pp

DAY 1-2: NUREMBERG | GERMANY

Your adventure begins in Nuremberg. Explore the nearby picturesque market town of Roth, or play your first round of golf at Golf Club Am Habsberg which has been consistently recognised as one of the top courses in Europe - featuring large greens it requires players to contemplate their method of approach: chip, pitch or putt.

DAY 2-4: REGENSBURG - PASSAU | GERMANY

We arrive in 13th-century Regensburg, one of Germany’s best preserved medieval cities which features 1,300 listed buildings of historical interest. We then dock in Passau, where you can visit St Stephen’s Cathedral - a masterpiece of Italian baroque architecture. Awaiting is Hartl Golf Resort’s 80-hectare championship course - a regal golfing pleasure that was awarded a ‘world-class’ rating the year it opened.

DAY 5-6: MELK - VIENNA | AUSTRIA

Enjoy a guided visit of Melk’s magnificent 11th-century Benedictine Abbey and 210-foot-high cupola. Then, cruising down the the Blue Danube through the picturesque Wachau Valley, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, we arrive in Vienna. The magnificent 27-hole golf course of Golf Club Adamstal is a true jewel situated amidst the alpine foothills and guarantees a pure golf experience.

DAY 7-8: BUDAPEST - DEPARTURE| HUNGARY

Our final dock is Budapest. Take a guided sightseeing tour around one of Eastern Europe’s liveliest cities as we travel to Pannonia Golf & Country Club located in the beautiful Máriavölgy Valley - rated as the number 1 course in Hungary it is a wonderful closing round to our journey down the Danube.

The Golf Touring Company has established a reputation, both domestically and internationally, for being the ‘go to’ people when wanting to arrange a golf vacation with a difference!

Using our 30 years of experience in the travel and golf industries, we have decided to combine our love of golf touring with the fastest growing sector of the travel industry – European river cruising! Whilst we acknowledge that there may be other operators who offer a cruise combined with golf, we are the FIRST TOUR COMPANY IN THE WORLD who have taken this to the next level and actually chartered the entire boat for the duration!

✔ 7 nights accommodation and all meals including alcohol and soft drinks

✔ 5 star luxury cruise:

Avalon Panorama has spacious, contemporary suites with open -air balconies and a sky deck

✔ 4 rounds of Championship Golf at Am Habsberg, Hartl Golf Resort, Adamstal and Pannonia GC

✔ Hosted by Andrew Daddo from Fox Sports’ “The Golf Show”

✔ Tour fully escorted by company staff and some of the most renowned golf teaching professionals in Australian golf

✔ Certified local guides offering VIP access during ports-of-call

✔ All tips, port taxes and free WiFi

✔ Souvenir shirt, cap and ball

CENTRAL PARK IN SPRING © NYCGO/JEN DAVIS

THE GOLF TOURING COMPANY

NEW GOLD LEAF CARRIAGES FOR ROCKY MOUNTAINEER

The most luxurious way to travel through the Canadian Rockies, the beloved Rocky Mountaineer, will be sporting a new set of Gold Leaf carriages in 2018, bringing even more luxury to the journey. Two new themed packages also

feature in the 2018 season (May-October) –'First Passage to the West Culinary Exploration', and 'Journey through the Clouds Outdoor Adventures'.

rockymountaineer.com

PERSONALISED PRIVATE AIR TRAVELS

Brisbane-based Australian private jet company, Avcair, now offers bespoke travel itineraries, across over 200 domestic locations and an extensive list of international destinations. Tailored journeys can be as diverse as a family weekend in Port Macquarie, a shopping trip in New York, a winery tour in the Margaret River region, a fishing excursion on Lizard Island or a multi-destination trip around Australia. Avcair’s concierge and bookings team will arrange everything, including all ground and helicopter transfers, and accommodation packages. In addition to tailored holidays, the air company also provides corporate services and flights to events such as Grand Final Day, the Melbourne Cup or Australian Open. avcair.com

AFRICA JOURNEYS BY JET

&Beyond has launched an exclusive selection of meticulously curated Small Group Journeys to off-the-beaten-track regions, among them a 12-day private jet offering for 2019, designed for a maximum of 12 guests, and covering Kenya, Tanzania, Zimbabwe and South Africa. Guests also have the opportunity to extend their trip to Mozambique, Botswana, Namibia, Rwanda or Uganda. This VIP journey, on the Bombardier Challenger 350 private jet, suits small groups and families. A Pilatus PC12 is used for shorter hops between Kenya and Tanzania. Priced at USD$70,000 (approximately AUD$88,250) per person, expert hosts, at various times during the journey, include acclaimed wildlife documentary maker Jonathan Scott of Big Cat Diary fame, as well as activist Denis Goldberg, personal friend of the late Nelson Mandela. A celebratory banquet is also hosted by &Beyond CEO Joss Kent.

andbeyond.com

The Art of Adventure

The Adventure-Cruise Difference Starts Here!

An adventure with the multi-awarded True North Adventure Cruises is not just another expedition cruise! We specifically exclude sea-days and feature unparalleled access to stunning coastal environments and, unequalled opportunity to truly experience the destination

The TRUE NORTH is purpose-built to go where other ships cannot and we explore further in six dedicated adventure boats. Daily activities can include snorkelling, diving, fishing, mud crabbing, hiking, scenic tours, picnics, natural history appreciation, cultural events and, most itineraries also feature a ship’s helicopter. Guest numbers are limited to 36 and an Australian crew of 22 chaperones every experience!

Book Now to join our 2018 Kimberley Season!

True North Adventure Cruises

Tel: (+61 8) 9192 1829

Email: cruise@truenorth.com.au

Website: www.truenorth.com.au

AIR TAHITI NUI’S PREMIUM LOUNGE OPENS

Air Tahiti Nui’s new lounge at Tahiti’s Faa’a airport, for Premium guests, has been designed in keeping with the airline’s blue and white theme, with elements reflecting the beauty of the Tahiti islands. The lounge, located on the first floor of the airport, takes in sweeping views of the runway, which borders the beautiful lagoon, and includes a separate TV area, computer stations, locker rooms, restrooms with showers and even a smoking room.

NEW NONSTOP DREAMLINER SERVICE TO FLY DAILY BETWEEN SYDNEY AND HOUSTON

United Airlines has commenced daily, nonstop flights between Sydney and Houston – the only direct flight offered between Houston and Australia. The new Boeing 787-9 Dreamliner service is the airline’s second longest flight, joining its current direct services from Sydney to West Coast hubs, Los Angeles and San Francisco.

The new Dreamliner route offers 48 flat-bed seats in United Polaris business class, alongside 63 Economy Plus seats and 141 seats in United Economy. The upgraded business class offering includes custom bedding from Saks Fifth Avenue, comfortable pyjamas and exclusive amenity kits from Soho House & Co’s Cowshed Spa. United Economy Plus features additional legroom and personal space, while United Economy offers complimentary food and drink, adjustable headrests and personal on-demand entertainment systems. Houston’s George Bush Intercontinental Airport has also undergone a US$277 million dollar upgrade — the new Terminal C North now features roomier gate areas, updated technology and new elevated dining and retail experiences. United is currently upgrading Terminal E, introducing new food and retail concepts. united.com

AIR NEW ZEALAND DEBUTS PERTH LOUNGE

Air New Zealand has opened its first Perth International Lounge, designed in conjunction with award-winning global architectural firm, Gensler, and Australian-based design company, Marsden Collective.  Located on Level 2, the Departures level of the international terminal, the new 441 square metre space, with internal atrium, features four separate seating ‘zones’, reflecting the same signature ultra-modern design seen across the airline’s other international lounges.

EMIRATES’ ULTRA-LUXE BOEING 777 PRIVATE SUITES

The highly anticipated reveal of Emirates’ new Boeing 777-300ER First Class Suites took place at the 2017 Dubai Air Show in November, with the Mercedes-Benz-inspired suites officially entering service in December, on the airline’s Dubai-Brussels route. The fullyenclosed (ceiling to floor) First Class private suites feature luxury fittings and state-of-the-art technology, and an enhanced seat design that not only reclines fully flat, but also includes NASA-developed ‘Zero Gravity Position’ that finds your body’s natural at-rest position. And suites in the central position of the aircraft don’t miss out on great views – they're fitted with virtual windows, projecting real time, hi-definition images from outside.

AUSSIE PILOTS LAUNCH INFLIGHTO APP

An Australian-based technology company formed in 2017 by two Australian pilots, John Hopkins and Christopher Smyth, has launched Inflighto – a sophisticated free in-flight entertainment and flight-tracking app. Aside from geolocated points of interest, tourist destinations and events information, Inflighto is the only flight-tracking app to incorporate live marine vessel tracking, live weather radar, satellite images, live flight data including altitude, ground speed, vertical speed, and heading and geographic location coordinates – and even In-Flight Chat – allowing passengers to chat with flight crew and fellow passengers in an open chat room dedicated to their flight. Inflighto is available on the Apple App Store and Google Play.

QANTAS TO LAUNCH MELBOURNE-SAN FRANCISCO

The new Qantas Melbourne-San Francisco non-stop service has a confirmed start date of 1 September ,2018. The Dreamliner service will operate four times weekly with an evening departure from Melbourne, and an overnight flight on the return.

BULA TOKYO!

From 3 July, 2018, Fiji’s national carrier, Fiji Airways, will commence three direct weekly services between Nadi International Airport and Tokyo’s Narita International Airport, on the airline’s Airbus A330-200/-300 planes. The nine-hour flights will operate on Tuesday, Friday and Sunday, with Nadi departures scheduled for 1.25pm [local time] and Narita departures scheduled for 9.25pm [local time].

BUSINESS CLASS REVIEWS ON THE WORLD'S PREMIUM AIRLINES

ETIHAD AIRWAYS | EA451 | AIRBUS A380-800 BUSINESS STUDIO

Route: Sydney to Abu Dhabi / Class: Business Studio / Seat: 23C / Flight time: 14 hours and 45 minutes / Reviewed by: Richard Bunting

The cabin

Etihad’s unique Business Studio layout offers forward and rear facing flatbed seats in a 1-2-1 configuration, giving all passengers direct aisle access. If you prefer to face forward, it may be worth requesting this when booking or at check-in. Located between First and Business Class, the Lobby gives ample room for those who wish to move about and sit elsewhere during the flight.

The seat

The Italian-designed leather seats have been carefully considered allowing everything you need to be within arm’s reach. There is ample storage space including two tables, providing plenty of room to spread out your reading material and other odds and sods. All seats have side-screens for privacy from the aisle or your neighbor when required. My seat, 23C, was rear facing, which initially felt odd, but after making myself at home it mattered little. Seats are fully adjustable and boast an inbuilt massage feature – a lovely, not to mention relaxing, surprise. When I was ready to sleep, the crew supplied a mattress, which made a big difference.

The service

The crew made what is a long flight from Sydney to Abu Dhabi that much more bearable. The service was impeccable; I wanted for nothing and there was always someone to help you when need be. The cabin manager took the time to chat with each passenger.

The food

Food is something close to my heart and I have always enjoyed in-flight dining. Etihad offers all-day dining and the food journey begins once you have settled into your seat. Prior to take off, the hostess took my dinner order, to be delivered at a time of my choosing. The menu offered a wide variety of options matched with wines from all over the globe. I couldn’t go past starting with the pea and

mint soup served with a very crusty bread roll, which came promptly at the five-hour mark, as requested. It was delicious and just the right size. My main meal of beef was cooked to perfection and complemented with polenta chips and salad. So delicious was my dessert, my tastebuds must have overpowered my memory because I’ve forgotten exactly what I ordered. But I know it was chocolate, and I know it was incredible. The café menu, available throughout the entire flight, also offers great variation.

The entertainment

Each seat is fitted with a 15.4-inch screen with a crisp picture. The remote has a small builtin screen allowing you to look through view -

ing options while watching the main screen. The Etihad entertainment system, known as E-Box, offers the latest movies, TV shows, documentaries, music and games. There’s also a small selection of live TV channels. It’s certainly enough to keep you entertained until you nod off to sleep.

The highs

For me, service can make or break a flight, and the level of service I experienced made this trip. The crew genuinely wanted to look after me and ensure my needs were met with a smile.

Our rating

The fine print

Baggage: 40kg (32kg maximum per item)

Loyalty program: Etihad Guest (etihadguest.com)

WiFi: Available to purchase on selected flights

Amenities kit: Limited edition kit for Business Class passengers, a collaboration with LUXE City Guide, includes unisex Scaramouche + Fandango products

Tanzania’s Southern Circuit

With new luxury lodges and inspiring conservation initiatives, Ruaha National Park is deservedly included in National Geographic’s “Places you need to visit in 2018.” Sue Watt discovers the secret charms of Tanzania’s little visited Southern Circuit

In the parched afternoon heat, I meet Mr T dozing in the shade with a belly full of buffalo. So called because of a dark T-shaped marking on the back of his mane, this ageing, greying lion still commands respect as the powerful Big Daddy of the Mwagusi Pride, protecting three females and four young cubs. “He’s a real character, a very strong lion,” our guide whispers. “He’ll happily pose for photos but if you step out of line, he lets you know.”

Our encounter with the charismatic Mr T occurs within half an hour of arriving at Ruaha National Park. It’s home to 10% of Africa’s lions, East Africa’s largest population of elephants and several packs of rare wild dogs – quirky canines with saucer-shaped ears and distinctive black, white and gold patterned coats that top my wildlife wish-list.

Yet, aside from safari connoisseurs who cherish Ruaha’s secret charms, few visitors come here. With Selous Game Reserve and the smaller parks of Mikumi and Udzungwa, Ruaha forms the country’s little-known Southern Circuit.

Most tourists to Tanzania choose the Northern Circuit featuring the often crowded Ngorongoro Crater and Serengeti. However, discerning

travellers are now heading south, lured by pioneering safari operator Asilia Africa. Highly regarded for bringing responsible tourism into less developed regions and supporting conservation and community initiatives, Asilia has recently opened high-end properties in Ruaha and Selous.

Jabali Ridge blends perfectly with Ruaha’s natural environment. Built around huge granite boulders and raised on stilts, the luxury lodge has far-reaching views to Mwagusi River. Its unique design is sophisticated yet soothing, from the subtle pale grey and wood décor of the lounge and dining room to the gin bar, spa and infinity pool. Its eight elegant ensuite rooms and private villa have louvred ‘walls’ that open onto expansive terraces complete with hammocks and huge sofas, ideal for lingering or for starlit dinners.

Wild and remote, Ruaha is Tanzania’s largest national park, spanning 20,000km². With just a handful of lodges, the real luxury here is solitude – it feels as if you have this raw, untrammelled wilderness to yourself. And it’s a beautiful wilderness. Golden sand rivers transform into tumultuous waterways after the rains, and groves of baobabs, skinny palms and acacia are dotted around rolling hills and vast savannahs.

On game drives we rarely encounter other safari vehicles. But we do see huge elephant herds with tiny babies shuffling among them, dazzles of zebras, dainty impalas and gangly giraffes, their legs splayed as they stoop to drink. Greater kudu with swirling horns trot away from

PHOTO CREDIT: WILL WHITFORD

SAFARI TANZANIA

© ASILIA AFRICA

Top: Selous wild dogs;

Above: Sue Watt inspecting tracks with guide;

Left: Double bedroom interior at Jabali Ridge;

Right: Wildlife in Ruaha National Park.

On game drives, we rarely encounter other safari vehicles. But we do see huge elephant herds with tiny babies shuffling among them, dazzles of zebras, dainty impalas and gangly giraffes

“Fresh lion prints, very fresh…” he whispers, looking around.

“I love walking safaris,” he continues. “You feel like things are watching you and you don’t know where they are…”

us; mink-coloured wildebeest stand and stare. We see jackals and hyena scavenging on buffalo and a leopard almost posing for photos on the bough of a tree. And on a starlit night drive we spot two leopards mating in a brief, unromantic encounter.

Our morning walking safaris, accompanied by an armed ranger, focus on little things, things you don’t get to see, hear, touch or smell on game drives. But we have to be prepared for bigger beasts. “We might come across lions, elephants and hippos,” our guide Tony explains. “If you see them, just stand your ground - and don’t run ...”

Ambling quietly along a terracotta-coloured ridge above the river, we check out birds, bugs and plants including a striking red and blue agama lizard and pretty baobab blossom. Suddenly, Tony raises his hand signalling us to stop. “Fresh lion prints, very fresh …” he whispers, looking around. “I love walking safaris,” he continues. “You feel like things are watching you and you don’t know where they are …”

The lion thankfully evades us, yet some 28 prides roam Ruaha’s plains. They’re becoming increasingly vulnerable through conflict with Barabaig and Maasai tribes, who kill them in ancient rituals or to protect their cattle. Fortunately, the Ruaha Carnivore Project, supported by Asilia, is working closely with communities to alleviate both lion and livestock killings. Slowly but surely, it’s transforming traditional cultural attitudes. The conservation project hopes to expand into Selous Game Reserve, home to the world’s largest lion population. The size of Switzerland, Selous is Africa’s biggest game reserve. It’s a magical, verdant wilderness dominated by the Rufiji River and a chain of lakes that are a magnet for wildlife.

I spend my last day in the Southern Circuit at Asilia’s new camp, Roho ya Selous near the tranquil Lake Nzerakera. Roho exudes understated luxury. Eight vast air-conditioned tents have stylish décor in shades of greens and creams; the airy dining area and lounge afford beautiful lake views from open-sided canvas rooms; and the swimming pool provides

welcome relief on hot, humid days.

You’re immersed in nature here: at night, I hear hippos harrumphing and at dawn giraffe wander past my window. On a sunset boat trip, we see masses of crocodiles rouse from their slumber, slithering into the water as we pass.

And on my last game drive, we finally find those rare, elusive wild dogs. For two fascinating hours, we watch 23 beautiful canines dozing, playing, hunting, feeding, squealing like children and wallowing in mud. And in true Southern Circuit style, we have them all to ourselves…

To book incredible trips like this, please contact Concierge Traveller on 1800 130 181 or luxurytravel@conciergetraveller.com.au www.conciergetraveller.com.au

Getting there

Sue travelled with Expert Africa

www.expertafrica.com; Australia Toll-free:1-800-995-397).

They offer tailor-made trips to the Selous and Ruaha from A$20,603 per person sharing, including business class flights between Sydney and Dar es Salaam flying with Etihad, and domestic flights between Dar es Salaam, Selous and Ruaha with Coastal Aviation. This itinerary is based on spending three nights at Roho ya Selous and four nights at Jabali Ridge on a full board basis; it also includes one night at the Southern Sun in Dar es Salaam on a bed and breakfast basis. This trip includes all safari activities, such as 4x4 game drives, boating safaris, walking safaris and fishing in the Selous. It also includes all meals, house drinks and laundry whilst on safari, and all flights and road transfers within Tanzania.

© ASILIA AFRICA

It’s probably the most unusual room amenity

I’ve come across at a luxury resort – a little woven basket for collecting eggs.

Six Senses Ninh Van Bay in Vietnam sits on a peninsula in the East Vietnam Sea, not far from popular holiday spot Nha Trang. Wrapped in lush jungle, where joyous little Langur monkeys spin and whirl through the trees, and situated on a curve of pristine beach, it might as well be a million miles way from the development going on across the water.

Fifty-nine villas, all with private plunge pools, are scattered across the property, some with direct beach access, some overwater, on the sloping hillside, or

Feed your senses

It’s far more luxurious than a classic health resort - even so, as Lee Tulloch discovers, Six Senses’ commitment to a sustainable environment leaves guests feeling both pampered and virtuous.

squatting on the spectacular boulders that tumbled to the sea at some point in the peninsula’s history. As resort accommodation goes, the spacious, rustic villas are among the most comfortable I’ve experienced, with their king-sized beds strung with mosquito netting, deep Swedish timber bathtubs overlooking an outdoor garden and shower, private pool terrace and generous upstairs living area open on four sides to sea breezes, and views of the bay and jungle. ‘Barefoot luxury’ is something of a cliché but this is a fine example of it. And it’s literal - cycling around on the bicycles provided with each villa, dining in the rock-top restaurant in the evening, walking the short path to the beach from my villa, I didn’t once need shoes.

This is my third stay at a Six Senses resort, after the dreamy Laamu in the Maldives and the historic Six Senses Douro Valley, which is housed in an old wine estate near Porto in Portugal. What always strikes me at a Six Senses property is the genuine commitment to

building a sustainable environment, one that goes far beyond the small gestures, such as the less frequent changing of sheets, that are now practised widely in the hospitality industry. These are useful but tiny baby steps, when compared to the innovative efforts of the Six Senses group.

I admit that my initial interest in the resort was of a more sybaritic nature – eating good food, swimming or diving in tropical waters, a spa treatment (the therapists are excellent), a sunset cocktail or two. But these are experiences that can be found at most five star resorts.

What sets Six Senses Ninh Van Bay apart is the environmental consciousness humming away in the background, one that rests on several core values. These include the utilisation of natural resources as often as possible, promoting the awareness of sustainability among hosts, guests and local communities, addressing the issue of climate change through energy management, avoiding animal products that use unnecessary cruelty or are environmentally destructive and actively employing local staff and service providers where possible. Each property’s use of resources, such as water and power, is rigorously monitored and sent daily to a sustainability manager at the group’s headquarters in Bangkok.

The Six Senses environmental policies are well integrated, so that guests can take part in small or significant ways, depending on their interest. Which is where I come to those egg baskets. Eighty-one per cent of the resort’s produce is sourced locally and much of it is grown in the vast organic garden, bursting with forty types of herbs and vegetables, fruit trees bearing dragon fruit, jackfruit and mango, a mushroom hut, and a chicken enclosure, where roosters strut freely and contented hens sit in baskets, soothed by calming spa music. An average of 29 eggs are collected each day and guests are encouraged, if they wish, to collect their own fresh eggs for breakfast and bring them to the restaurant, where chefs will cook them to the guest’s specifications. For children who think that chickens are square things called ‘nuggets’, it will be a revelation.

Interacting directly with a food source like this is one part of the Eat With Six Senses initiative being

Eighty-one per cent of the resort’s produce is sourced locally and much of it is grown in the vast organic garden

Above: Ninh Van Bay’s lush vegetable garden welcomes guests interested in growing organic,

rolled out across the eleven resorts. Chefs focus on quality and balance with recipes made from scratch, using fresh and organic ingredients that encourage a healthy microbiome (gut flora), avoiding flavour enhancers, lectins, lactose, gluten and sugar. Branded drinking water is banned (rainwater is collected from the reservoir and bottled in glass.)

Six Senses Ninh Van Bay executive chef Alex (originally from Melbourne) has a personal, as well as professional, involvement in the program – he lost 45 kilograms by changing his diet and devising a ‘super salad’ that is now on the resort’s menu.

But this is all health by stealth to a certain degree. While you would have to work very hard to be unhealthy here, the resort is no strict weight loss farm.

(There’s even a wine cave, carved into the rocks.) Restaurant menus in the main dining room, Dining by the Bay, focus, although not exclusively, on Vietnamese dishes, which are flavourful and fresh. Breakfasts feature everything from cooked-on-the-spot Vietnamese street food such as crispy seafood pancakes to waffles, omelettes and dumplings. There’s a juice bar and carafes of fresh juices such as ginger, mango, mint and passionfruit are set out so that guests can mix their own juices. A separate cool room is full of desserts and cheeses, so chocoholics or those with a sweet tooth will not feel the burn of denial. Meal choices in the three restaurants range from burgers to Vietnamese favourites such as pho. Complimentary ice creams are served by the pool and, at the coconut stand, guests can add alcohol to their virtuous coconut water if they wish.

Those guests who would like to seriously overhaul their health can take a more holistic approach with the Integrated Wellness Program, which begins with a personal consultation with in house naturopathic doctor, Dr Booranima. The sympathetic Dr. Booranima will place your hands and feet on four iPad-like tablets to analyse key biomarkers of health including metabolism, oxygen distribution and heart function, and devise a program tailored to individual needs, which might include fitness activities, spa treatments and dietary advice. The additional cost for a three day program is $USD579 per guest. I came away from my session with all sorts of alarming statistics, but the soothing Dr. Booranima assured me the loss of a couple of kilos would set me right.

Sleep with Six Senses is another innovative program. It is designed in association with Michael J Breus, an internationally renowned sleep doctor. Guests who wish to take part are asked to complete an online questionnaire before they arrive. That allows dedicated

sleep ambassadors, trained by Dr Breus, to prepare for the guest, including fine-tuning the bedroom to ensure it’s conducive to good sleep.

Naturalmat beds, constructed of sustainable latex and organic lambskin, organic pillows, duvets, sheets and towels are provided. In the specialised sleep villas, a topper filled with, unexpectedly, soft recycled jeans is added to the bed. Pillows are filled with hand harvested down. Those with particular sleep issues can upgrade their experience to include a Sleep Bag that contains soft bamboo fabric pyjamas, eye mask and earplugs and sleep guidance videos. A Withings Aura Sleep Tracker can be installed under the mattress, to record heart rate and REM sleep and the data interpreted via an app, combining the latest technologies with traditional therapies.

In the waking hours, guests have a choice of activities, including Aerial Yoga, an acrobatic form of yoga that works with gravity to relax and realign the body. One of the Six Senses core values is that activities should be “fun and quirky.” Hanging upside down in a hammock certainly fits the bill. Yogic Sleep and Yogic Detox programs are also available.

Even if you’re in poolside mode, a visit to the Earth Lab, run by Sustainability Supervisor Ms Ngoc, is illuminating. She’ll take you on a tour of the education centre, the mushroom hut and organic gardens, the water treatment plant, the chicken farm and the solar farm. She’ll show you the laboratory where the essential oils for treatments are made and show you the baby chickens incubating in a box. Younger guests, who can spend their days in the Sub Club, will especially love this treat.

Back in your villa, attentive GEMs (Guest Experience Makers) will show you ways of conserving water and power during your stay. It feels good to know the only significant footprint you’re leaving is your footprint in the sand.

Enquire more about this story at luxurytravelmedia.com.au

Stay

Six Senses Ninh Van Bay is reached from Cam Rahn airport near Nha Trang, Vietnam. Resort transfers can be arranged from $USD40 one way. Hilltop Villas start at $USD 720 + taxes per night, Beach Pool Villas start at $USD765 + taxes, Rock Villas and Water Pool Villas start at $USD 1270 + taxes.

reservations-ninhvan@sixsenses.com

Left: Hilltop Villas have pools

Swiss peaks

Premium slopes and a thriving town centre, all against a backdrop of the breathtaking Swiss Alps; it’s easy to see why Zermatt is considered a skier’s paradise, writes

Gary Allen

I’m headed to the top of one of the most famous mountain peaks in the world, aboard the highest cable car in Europe. It’s my first ride and all the way I’m searching for that one special view. My eyes are peeled and my heart is pounding with delight, but a layer of cloud obscures my view, until the gondola comes to a stop at the summit. Showtime! The clouds part like curtains to reveal Switzerland’s mighty Matterhorn in all her glory. She is splendid. I grab my skis and disembark into a cool breeze, surrounded by blue skies. It’s truly breathtaking to see it this close.

The sun breaks through and the mountains give off a shine, becoming more incredible every moment. Colours change shades with the light and I am in a daze, meditating on these mountains for a good ten minutes before I finally put on my skis and fly down the slopes.

While I wouldn’t call myself a rookie skier, I am still in awe of those around me as they fly past on narrow trails and runs. I hope to cover a fraction of the 360 kilometres of skiing here, armed with the knowledge that, if I fall short, I have the perfect excuse to return.

The majestic Matterhorn – The Jewel of the Swiss Alps – is the big drawcard here. The 4478-metre mountain attracts thousands of visitors daily. She looms large over the Swiss town of Zermatt, which welcomes a steady flow of tourists seeking an authentic cultural experience in the mountains. The slopes are packed from late November to the end of April with skiers, like me, eager to experience what is considered one of the best skiing destinations in the world.

Zermatt certainly lives up to its reputation, but it wasn’t always a skier’s paradise. The luxury destination was a simple agricultural community until the first successful ascent of the Matterhorn was completed in 1865. When the descent proved fatal – four of seven climbers died – the story piqued curiosity and mountaineers rushed the sleepy village to take up the challenge. The history of Zermatt and its evolution as a thriving tourism destination is preserved at the Matterhorn Museum in the centre of town.

Zermatt is car-free, making it perfect for strolling and shop-front browsing, as long as you remember to dodge the electric buses and bicycles. If you drive to Zermatt, the nearest car park is located five kilometres away in the village of Taesch. Most hotels offer guest transfers to the centrally located train station, a popular arrival point for visitors. For accommodation that offers personality and quirkiness in equal measure, the Backstage Hotel, in the heart of Zermatt, is the choice pick. The creation of local artist, architect, designer and hotelier, Heinz Julen, the hotel is testament to his vision and talent, both evident in everything from the unique wood, metal and glass furniture, to the works of art. Julen lives on the hotel’s top floor and can often be seen at breakfast with his wife and kids, and mingling with guests.

The hotel’s most unforgettable feature is its unique spa concept, based on the Book of Genesis. It is a seven-step journey that takes guests through the creation narrative. Treatments include ‘light’ (a darkened steam room rapidly pierced by light) and ‘planets and tides’

ZERMATT SKI SWITZERLAND

(an 80°C sauna with projected images from the Hubble Telescope), but my favourite is ‘fauna’. In a large bathtub of warm salt water, I feel weightless in the ‘Dead Sea’. Soft music hums in the background and, after 20 minutes of bliss, the water begins to slowly drain and I am, ever so gently, brought back down. I am so relaxed I try it twice. An outdoor spa offers a space to revive, and then it’s a short walk to satisfy my appetite.

After Seven is Zermatt’s most decorated restaurant and also happens to be located in the Backstage Hotel. With two Michelin stars, the restaurant’s centrepiece is its open kitchen, offering a glimpse of the magic that goes on in Chef Ivo Adam’s domain. The ‘surprise menu’ lists an array of ingredients from which you select your dislikes. From there, the chefs lead you through the gastronomic journey.

After dinner you might choose to catch a film at the in-house movie theatre, offered at reduced rates for hotel guests, or relax over a drink at the upstairs bar.

The antithesis of Backstage, but no less alluring, is Matthiol Boutique Hotel. This tradi-

tional Swiss wood chalet is located away from the city centre, but close enough to reach on foot. Its proximity to the main gondola, the Glacier Express, makes for a convenient early start to the day for keen skiers. With 28 rooms and suites, the hotel is quiet and very popular with couples and honeymooners. Some rooms, including the Matterhorn Spa Double Room, have a freestanding bathtub with sauna and steam room, and views of the snowy Matterhorn peak. The lodge also has some excellent dining options such as the in-house restaurant, Filet el Fils, which served up some of the best venison I have ever tasted.

For something different, you can’t go past the fondue igloos. The strange-looking structures that greet guests in the courtyard are, in fact, self-contained fondue stations complete with cheesy aromas. Reserve an igloo for dinner when you book your accommodation to avoid missing this quintessentially Swiss repast.

The hotel also owns slope-side restaurant Bergrestaurant Stafelalp. At 2200 metres, it offers great food with amazing views, and you

can charge back to the lodge; perfect for lunch on the slopes.

Zermatt provides plenty of opportunities for its non-skiing and snowboarding visitors, who flock here year-round, to climb, bike and ice skate; and if you’re not an outdoor sportsperson, the scenery alone is enough to impress. Dining options are abundant, and range from fine dining to cheap and cheerful. If you visit in April, be sure to stay on for Zermatt Unplugged, the resort’s annual music festival. But me? I’m headed straight back on the cable car for another close encounter with that resplendent mountain.

Enquire more about this story at luxurytravelmedia.com.au

Getting to Zermatt

The international airports best connected to Zermatt are Geneva and Zurich. Both have fast rail links to Brig or Visp and even quicker road links to Taesch. The mountain cog railway connects Brig, Visp and Taesch to Zermatt

For something different, you can’t go past the fondue igloos. The strange-looking structures that greet guests in the courtyard are, in fact, self-contained fondue stations complete with cheesy aromas.

In the jungle

Robin Venturelli visits India’s Ranthambore National Park in search of the regal tiger. What she finds is a dreamy combination of wildlife, history and luxury.

Only the hum of insects and chatter of birds interrupt the silence – the quiet calm in stark contrast to the nearby chaos of Indian streets. I am at Aman-i-Khas, a luxury tented retreat located on the skirts of the Ranthambore National Park near the town of Sawai Madhopur in Rajasthan. This Mughal-style property is my home for three nights as I conduct my search (with plenty of help!) for the majestic wild tiger.

A symbol of strength and grace, the tiger is India’s national animal and plays a significant role in the country’s culture and heritage. But numbers are in serious decline and the tiger finds itself on the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) Red List of Threatened Species. Conservation initiatives are in full swing and, as home to around 60 per cent of the world’s tigers, India is integral to these efforts. One of 50 tiger reserves in India, Ranthambore is a vital part of this work and, today, holds the highest density of tigers ever in its recorded history.

On arrival at Aman-iKhas, we are greeted with hot ginger tea and introduced to our butler, or ‘batman’. Assigned specifically to us, his job description ranges from protecting us from potential wildlife dangers to providing tea and coffee, washing and folding clothes, serv ing meals, and arranging daily activities.

Our private tent, one of just 10 on the property, is beautiful. Inspired by the Mughal emperors, it is airy and spacious with high ceilings. Rooms are separated by cotton drapes, offering privacy and a home-like feel. With separate vanities, a free-standing bathtub and shower, and twin writing desks with stationery, it’s hard to believe we are really in the Indian bushland. The centrepiece is a luxurious leather table, where we find ourselves reading, lounging and dining most days. There’s also air conditioning for the steamy summers and heated mattresses for those cool Indian evenings. Each tent is positioned for privacy, and boasts exceptional views of the rugged landscape of Ranthambore National Park.

In the early 20th century, these landscapes were home to hunting lodges owned by Indian Maharajahs who would host friends on a vacation of big game shooting. Today, the incredible space is in the hands of the government and

has been reformed as nature reserves – home to tigers, crocodiles, leopards, sambar deer, and more than 300 bird species. It is also the setting for Ranthambore Fort, and dotted with Jain and Hindu temples, historic palaces, chatris and reservoirs.

Ranthambore is known for its incredibly diverse range of wildlife, but most renowned for the wild tiger. Our first safari adventure is in the evening, as the Indian air starts to cool and the nocturnal beasts begin to roam. With our personal naturalist, Banksie, we tour through the incredible nature reserve and enjoy early success, spotting two sloth bears climbing the mountain. No tigers this time, but Banksie is impressed. Sloth bears are a rare sighting and this is not a bad effort for day one. The next day brings more luck: striped hyena, deer, monkeys and native birds – but still no tiger to be seen. This is soon forgotten as we are treated to an impromptu dinner in the forest, arranged by our batman and complete with campfires, candle-lit lanterns hanging in the trees, and a private tasting menu comprising various local delicacies, each cooked using ingredients from the chef’s on-site garden. Being outside, immersed in the native landscape, is a unique and unforgettable experience.

Our last safari ride is on a cold, frigid morning, and the air is filled with dust. Comfort is never compromised at the Aman, with simple little luxuries part of the service. On this occasion, hot water bottles are given to each guest to take with them. This tour is set to be a gruelling one with the guides deciding to take us to Sector 4. This means a three-hour, adrenaline-fuelled journey over rolling boulders and steep inclines, in the hope of catching a glimpse of one of the elusive tigers.

Just as our journey is coming to an end, with confidence reluctantly fading, our tracker spots a sign that a tiger may be near. Instinctively, the driver steps on the gas. We’re off, and fast. After a series of tight turns, we come upon a clearing of tall grass. Layla, a 90-kilogram tiger, greets us with a slight glance. She is spraying her territory when we approach and is quick to hide once we get our share of photos. The striped beauty had no clue what the fuss was about, but I will be making a fuss over her appearance for a long time to come.

aman.com/resorts/aman-i-khas

AMAN-I-KHAS INDIA

AMANRESORTS LIMITED 1996-PRESENT. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

EXPERIENCE TRAVEL NEWS FROM AROUND THE WORLD

PREVIEW – EXCLUSIVE 2019 EXPERIENTIAL ITINERARIES

Captain’s Choice has released details of two new Private Jet itineraries for 2019: 'Corners of Europe' visits Paris, Aix en Provence, Puglia, St Petersburg, Ilulissat and Scotland, and includes a culinary tour through Aix-en-Provence with a dinner at the Michelin starred L’Esprit de la Violette; getting behind the wheel of vintage 1960s or 70s Alfa Romeos for a drive through ancient Puglia; a backstage tour of the Marinsky Theatre, and a private after hours tour of the Hermitage, in St Petersburg. The journey then shifts to Greenland, arriving at the extraordinary town of Ilulissat, perched on the edge of an Icefjord, and concludes in the summer playgrounds of Scottish gentry. By contrast, 'The Ultimate African Safari' has been created with the more intrepid traveller in mind, offering a 20-day itinerary designed to provide once-in-a-lifetime experiences, such as an encounter with

the rare mountain gorillas of the Volcanoes National Park, and lunch on the Zambezi River with hippos bathing nearby. Commencing in Cairo, guests are treated to a private tour of the Egyptian Museum’s treasures, and an after-dark, desert tent dinner at the pyramids. In Addis Ababa guests have the opportunity to give back, by becoming acquainted with the work of Dr Catherine Hamlin, and visiting Hamlin Fistula Hospital. Safari across the Serengeti, and embark on a luxurious exclusive charter on the Rovos Rail, visiting the goldfields of Witwatersrand and Kimberley’s Big Hole diamond mine. Dinner at Cape Town’s Test Kitchen restaurant, and a private event among installations at the recently opened Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa, complete the journey. captainschoice.com.au

DIVE AND CRUISE THE REMOTE MARQUESAS ISLANDS

French Polynesia luxury small ship cruise operator, Paul Gauguin Cruises, offers the only option for diving in the Marquesas Islands.

Expert-led diving excursions are available on every m/s Paul Gauguin voyage. First time divers can take an onboard Discover SCUBA Diving class, and earn credit towards PADI (Professional Association of Diving Instructors) certification, and The Gauguin also offers PADI certification as well as refresher courses.

The m/s Paul Gauguin is a 332-guest, 5+-star cruise ship, providing a deluxe cruise experience to discover the wonders of Tahiti, French Polynesia, and the South Pacific.  pgcruises.com/ms-paul-gauguin/diving

ABERCROMBIE & KENT SUPPORTS ‘ALTERNATIVE’ EDUCATION IN INDIA

The philanthropic division of Abercrombie & Kent, AKP, has partnered with Digantar Vidyalay in Jaipur, India, a school delivering an alternative approach to education. Digantar aims to transform a very conservative society into an equitable one, with its core vision emerging from the significant social inequality in the region, characterised by a gender ratio where female foeticide and child marriages are still practised. The school takes in children from these communities, teaches them to

question the existing norms, and to recognise their own potential for action, and their capacity to influence each other as well as the community at large. As a policy, Digantar has a 60:40 ratio of girls to boys and, today, girls outnumber boys at the school. Abercrombie & Kent makes a donation to AKP on behalf of every guest, and offers those travelling to Jaipur the opportunity to visit the school. digantar.org akphilanthropy.org

NEW LUXURY YACHT FOR GALAPAGOS ECO FLEET

Preserving and protecting the Galapagos Islands, and providing authentic and mind-blowing experiences for travellers, is a balancing act that requires an intelligent compromise – keeping a promise to responsible tourism, and meeting the expectations of guests. For three decades award-winning expedition cruise company, Ecoventura, has been deftly achieving just that, and its wide-ranging and active affiliations with conservation, non-profit, and charitable organisations is testament to that ethos. The success of luxury sustainable and responsible adventures on the 20 passenger, 10 stateroom MV Origin, has led to start of the construction of a second luxury vessel, due to join the fleet and begin operation in 2019. MV Theory will be a sister ship to Origin and boast state-of-the-art inclusions with an eco-conscious aesthetic. The yacht’s understated elegance comes from designer Cindy Muirragui, who found inspiration in the Galapagos Islands to create a feeling of onboard intimacy, with all the (eco-friendly!) comforts of a luxury 5-star hotel. ecoventura.com

SILVERSEA CRUISES JOINS ORCA CONSERVATION

In a new partnership with ORCA, one of the UK’s leading marine conservation charities, Silversea Cruises will contribute to the organisation’s work, with guests helping to collect critical sightings data of whales, dolphins and porpoises. Lucy Babey, ORCA Head of Science & Conservation, said her team is excited to work together with Silversea, reaching parts of the world they would not otherwise have had the opportunity to visit. “This new programme will help us shine a light on some of the most diverse and beautiful marine spaces on the planet, making a significant impact in protecting the wonderful whales, dolphins and porpoises in our oceans.” The partnership gets underway with sailings on Silver Explorer in May 2018, followed by sailings on Silver Muse in May 2019. orcaweb.org.uk

Wild and free

Hiking boots laced, Kelly Allen discovers Maria Island, a floating national park showcasing Tasmania’s abundant natural beauty and renowned flavours.

Photography by Kelly Allen

Grilled Dunalley farm quail, duck and wallaby sausage from Sandy Bay, and crispy Huon salmon fillets; would you believe me if I told you I was on a wilderness hike in Tasmania? On the state’s east coast, just a 25-minute boat ride from Triabunna Harbour, lies Maria Island, rich in natural beauty and native animals, and with a colourful convict past. Some choose the DIY-style hike, which means bringing your own supplies to the island (there are no shops or residents here) and carting them around on a self-guided tour. But I have decided to spend the next four days enjoying the comforts of a permanent bush camp, gourmet meals, open-air hot showers, and surprisingly civilised composting toilets.

The Maria Island Walk is one of just 11 in the Great Walks of Australia Signature Collection. Our guides, Holly and Ella, are enthusiastic about the history of the area and share their knowledge of the native plants and animals, including the tiger snake and copperhead we come across (a highlight for me, believe it or not). Wombats are everywhere and, like the snakes, are indifferent to hikers, barely giving us a glance as we creep up close for a photo opportunity. As part of a population regeneration program, the island is home to more than 100 Tasmanian Devils, although they all unfortunately avoided us.

Our first day is a gentle 10 kilometres with a picnic lunch upon arrival to camp, followed by a hike to Haunted Bay on the south end of the island. We leave our large packs at camp, just bringing cameras and water, so it’s not a strenuous walk. We have some rain, making me glad I said yes to the warm raincoats offered before we started. Any potential of dropping a kilo or two during these long walks on the island quickly disappears as Holly and Ella boast incredible cooking skills. When we return to camp, we change into dry clothes and enjoy an array of Tasmanian cheeses, pickled onions, olives and fig paste paired with local beer and wine. Dinner starts with a freshly made bruschetta on sourdough bread, followed by a seafood risotto with asparagus and local scallops. Dessert is fresh berries with crumbled meringue and thickened cream. It’s not your typical camp fare, but I’m certainly not complaining. Food allergies are catered for and meal alternatives are just as delicious and thoughtfully prepared.

There’s a pleasant vibe around the dining table as our group of nine relaxes and gets to know each other. We are a diverse group of singles and couples plus a family with a 12-year-old daughter. We’re all Australians here to explore the beauty of our own backyard.

The second day is a bit more challenging as we walk 14 kilometres with our packs (most weigh about nine kilo -

grams; the guides carry about 23 kilos). Lucky for us, the girls have fed us well at breakfast. Fuelled up on scrambled eggs with smoked salmon, sourdough toast, yogurt, fresh fruit, granola, tea and plunger coffee, we feel energised to push on. This day is known as ‘five beaches day’ and it’s spent walking along quiet shorelines and enjoying a swim in the clear water whenever we fancy. The water is a comfortable 18°C.

The pace is relaxed with breaks for tea and biscuits every now and again. There’s never a feeling of being rushed, and the group settles into a nice rhythm with one guide toward the front and one bringing up the rear.

We arrive at White Gums camp mid-afternoon. Below us is Four Mile Beach, a secluded stretch of sand and not a soul to be seen. It’s a perfect spot for an afternoon swim followed by a short siesta. That evening, the girls are again intent on making sure we’re rewarded for all that walking. We dine on miso and wild mushroom soup, ratatouille, grilled honey soy quail, lamb cutlets, gourmet sausages, and flourless chocolate cake.

On day three, after a pancake breakfast (including a delicious vegan and gluten free version), we hike an easy six kilometres to the next site, Bernacchi House, located in the World Heritage-listed convict settlement of Darlington. The beautifully restored homestead was built in 1880 and is surrounded by a lavender garden, which the wombats seem to enjoy snacking on. After lunch we are given the afternoon options: a leisurely wander around the settlement of Darlington or the rigorous climb up twin peaks Bishop and Clerk.

Our entire group decides to take up the challenge, which takes us along rugged cliff tops, through open forest, up rocky slopes and finally, to the summit. There is some boulder hopping and scrambling as you near the top, and if you are afraid of heights, you may want to stop just short as the drop could prove tummy churning. But if you do make it to the top, the vista – a bird’s-eye-view of the Freycinet Peninsula, Schouten Island, Isle des Phoques, and the east coast of Tasmania – is indescribable. The only group there, we took time to appreciate this beautiful moment, as well as the chocolate bars Ella had surprised us with – an apt reward for the five-hour return trip. Likewise the crispy salmon with potato and dill mash, and light lemon tart we enjoyed that evening.

Our last day was spent exploring the convict settlement with – thankfully – time for one last meal before heading back to the mainland. Gourmet sandwiches on just-baked bread courtesy of Holly, Bruny Island oysters and local bubbles: inviting and utterly satisfying, not unlike our journey. www.greatwalksofaustralia.com.au

MARIA ISLAND TASMANIA

For the of your life...

© TISARA

Garden in the third heaven

Heaven by name, heaven by nature. Kelly Allen checks in to the stunning and secluded Trisara resort.

TRISARA THAILAND

The first thing I notice, while relaxing against the infinity edge of my pool, is just how private these villas are. No need to worry about getting caught skinny-dipping at Phuket’s Trisara resort – it must be one of the most secluded places I’ve stayed in. Although seemingly immersed in dense jungle, the villa sits atop a hill offering terrific views out to sea.

Arriving at Phuket International Airport close to midnight, the place is empty and the transfer is a breeze; I’m pulling into the resort just 15 minutes later. Trisara, which translates to “garden in the third heaven” in Sanksrit, is set along Phuket’s less-developed northwest coast, overlooking a private bay.

I’m staying in a newly renovated 240-square-metre Ocean View Pool Villa, which has a traditional red clay Thai-style roof, but sports an interior that is refreshingly contemporary. Dark timber is integrated throughout, along with a separate seating area, stone floors, and a massive ensuite with indoor and outdoor showers. There are 39 suites and villas in total, all with private pools, as well as 24 residential villas, which are

views out to sea.

wonderful for large families as they range from two to seven bedrooms.

Waking refreshed the next morning, I head to breakfast at The Deck, where my waiter, Aimy, suggests I try the pad see-ew gai. This is a dish typically associated with lunch or dinner in western society, but what the heck… when in Thailand. I certainly don’t regret my choice, as it’s the most incredible version I’ve tasted; a perfect balance of noodles, chicken and oyster sauce. I decide to let Aimy order for me every morning – another good decision, as every culinary offering is an absolute delight. The exotic coconut waffles with mango look sensational as they go by, as does the timeless avocado on sourdough toast with a twist of lime, coriander and balsamic reduction, but I decide to stay true to my new-found Thai breakfast special.

All of the meals are excellent at Trisara, with the standout being dinner at the newest restaurant, PRU. Chef Jimmy Ophorst has that natural ability to transform simple ingredients into something magical. I sample the six-course tasting menu, with paired wines, and am blown away. I can only describe the menu as innovative modern cuisine, with small dishes that are exquisitely flavoursome. I must admit I am a bit surprised to find such progressive and high-quality food in Phuket. My favourite dish – carrots cooked in the soil they grew in, with fermented carrot juice and egg

yolk – is made from simple ingredients, but tastes so rich and robust. The plates they are served on are just as impressive; from slate and wooden slabs to a straw nest set inside a wooden box. The entire experience is a treat for all my senses.

Morning yoga and meditation with Khun Miw provide the perfect recovery after my indulgent dinners. I choose the sandy beach setting of the outdoor yoga sala over the indoor yoga room; the beautiful view and soothing rhythm of the crashing waves is impossible to resist as we practise asanas and calming breathing techniques.

Jara Spa, on the hilltop, offers six standalone villas, each with captivating views of the stunning Andaman Sea. I’m served a chilled ginger tea while I wait for my treatment, and a delicious hot lemongrass tea afterward – accompanied by miang kham, a traditional Thai bite-size snack wrapped in leaves. The spa uses Australia’s own Sodashi products (my personal favourite), and my Sodashi pure radiance facial lives up to its reputation.

What sets Trisara apart is the secluded resort’s ability to evoke solitude; that imperative feeling of grounding that is all too often neglected in modern life. It was this – along with the simple but incredible food – that left a lasting impression.

trisara.com

Although seemingly immersed in dense jungle, the villa sits atop a hill offering terrific

©

TISARA

© TISARA © TISARA

SLEEP – COMO SHAMBHALA ESTATE, UBUD

Australian sleep therapist, psychologist, naturopath, nutritionist, Western herbal medicine practitioner, homeopath, and author, Tristian Kelly, will conduct the first Sleep Awakening Workshop over six days and five nights in May 2018, at COMO Shambhala Estate, near Ubud, Bali. The Workshop will help guests take control of their sleeping patterns and habits, and includes three hours of daily group coaching sessions as well as one-on-one consultations. Kelly’s soon-to-be published Diary of an Insomniac chronicles her 20-year search for a cure to her own chronic insomnia, and follows her first book, Three Weeks to Better Sleep. The inaugural COMO Shambhala Estate Workshop will run from 17-22 May 2018 and is priced from USD$5160, including all meals and a bonus 60-minute COMO Shambhala massage. Contact res.Cestate@comohotels.com for more information.

SPA – AYANA JIMBARAN

The resort’s famed Spa On The Rocks has welcomed 2018 with an extensive renewal and makeover of the interiors of its two private treatment villas – each of which is designed to create the ideal couples' hideaway or ‘just for me’ escape, with ocean views. Authentic Balinese patterns weave around doors and mirrors, across cabinets and ornaments, and new rustic white Sungkai wood adds a fresh by-the-sea feel. Luxurious spa offerings range from Swedish and Deep Relaxation massages to traditional Balinese and Shiatsu, plus all manner of body wraps, scrubs, soaks, facials and foot baths, using Wild Harvested Pearl, Jade Stone and Volcanic Lava, among other ‘luscious elements’. ayana.com/en/bali/ayana-resort-and-spa/spa

YOGA – FOUR SEASONS RESORT BALI, SAYAN

From Iyengar and Adventure Yoga to Vinyasa Flow and Peace & Power Yoga, the 2018 Masters-in-Residence program brings global yoga masters to the resort throughout the year, each in residence for up to two weeks and offering both group and private sessions at the resort’s Dharma Shanti Bale. The visiting masters will augment the resort’s in-house yoga program that includes Bali’s only certified AntiGravity Yoga, monthly Full Moon Yoga under the stars, and Restorative Hot Stone Yoga. Guests can also journey inwards with meditation, Life Talks or a Sacred Nap (suspended amid the jungle) with Sayan’s wellness mentor and former Buddhist nun, Ibu Fera. fourseasons.com/sayan/spa/visiting_practitioners

Something Magical is happening in the heart of Red Hill

Family tree

© RIVER BIRCHES LODGE

Ipress my palms together above my head and lift my right foot up into a shaky tree pose. Through the open window I hear the distinctive whooshing of New Zealand’s native wood pigeon and I whip my head around to try to catch a glimpse through the tops of the mature birch trees outside. The sudden movement nearly causes me to overbalance, but my flailing goes unnoticed by the rest of the class. To my right my father-in-law is executing ‘tree’ with enviable stability, while at the front of the room my mother, who is leading the class, starts to transition to the next pose.

I never imagined I would find myself practising yoga alongside my in-laws, my mother and my husband, but these family yoga classes have become something of a morning routine for us during our stay at River Birches.

Located in Turangi, just south of the expansive Lake Taupo on New Zealand’s North Island, River Birches’ main lodge is an intimate property with just three guest rooms. The Cottage next door – my family’s lodgings for the next few days – is a three bedroom, self-contained property encircled by native gardens, a vine-laced pergola and a decades-old fishpond, installed by the original owners in 1930.

We arrive a little frazzled after a five-hour drive from Auckland involving the standard family disputes over music choice, air-conditioning and, of course, navigation. One might imagine the GPS would put an end to naviga-

tion disputes, but on this occasion the disembodied voice of Google Maps seemed intent on having us plunge into streams, jump over motorways and – always a favourite – drive the wrong way down a one-way street. After the tense, close quarters of the car, we’re relieved to discover the cottage is spacious and airy, with high vaulted ceilings, smooth cedar floors and cool white walls. The lower floor is open plan, with the generous dining room giving way to a circular living area walled with floor-to-ceiling windows, which can be opened to let in the fresh, crisp air carrying the woody aroma of native foliage.

Travelling with our parents has brought back some of our discourteous childhood habits, and my husband and I drop our bags in the hall and race upstairs to appraise the bedrooms, eventually claiming the ground floor master

bedroom, which has its own ensuite with an open shower and heated floors; as well as a walk-in wardrobe and direct access to the outside balcony. In retrospect, we should have left the master bedroom for the early risers, as its position next to the kitchen means we are often woken at 6am by the clinking of teacups. The upstairs bedrooms are equally spacious but share a bathroom, and the second floor also has a study that becomes the setting for our selfled yoga sessions.

Each morning after our class, we head down to the kitchen, which is stocked daily with breakfast basics including freshly ground coffee, New Zealand muesli and a pot of local honey. The professional-standard stove top and remarkably convenient double dishwasher mean cooking our own breakfast becomes a fun family activity, with each pair taking turns to dish

up a spread on the lodge’s immense wooden table before heading out for the day.

While the Turangi region is known mainly for its unrivalled trout fishing, the area also attracts visitors who come to tackle the nearby eight-hour Tongariro Alpine Crossing, widely considered New Zealand’s best one-day trek. For those looking for a more family-friendly walk, the best option is the Tongariro River Trail, especially for River Birches guests given the entrance is just metres away. We spend our first morning on the three-hour circuit, taking in fern glens, native bush, rolling fields and the clear, trout-filled waters of the fast-flowing river. In the afternoon we make the two-minute drive to the Tongariro River Rafting headquarters, where we gear up for a thrilling whitewater rafting journey down the rapids. Returning each evening after an active and

exhausting day, it’s a relief to discover the lodge has been cleaned, restocked and turned down. We simply shed our wet, dirty clothes, step into our robes and slippers, and sink into the lounges to rehash the day’s events, compare photos and plan for tomorrow.

Stay Here

Rates for The Cottage at River Birches start from NZ$850 (about A$768) per night for four people and include breakfast supplies. The house can sleep up to six and prices for additional guests start from NZ$215 (about A$194) per night.

River Birches is a member of Luxury Lodges of New Zealand. riverbirches.co.nz

RIVER BIRCHES NEWZEALAND

Family holidays in three Queensland hotspots

Family travel is not always easy to manage. Sometimes the children are difficult to entertain; sometimes a sullen teen makes it plain that they would rather be anywhere else; and sometimes Uncle Steve just refuses to budge unless he can bring along his fishing rod. So, how do you please one – and all?

Enter Queensland. The Sunshine State lays on year-round temperate weather, and diverse attractions and activities across popular holiday destinations within the destination: Brisbane, the Gold Coast, the Sunshine Coast, or tropical Far North Queensland and the Whitsundays – all are within easy reach by air from most other parts of Australia.

Where to stay? The team at Luxury Travel has selected its top picks for the best family holidays in Queensland.

Sheraton Grand Mirage, Port Douglas Beach resort getaway for families with young children

Positioned along the famous Four Mile Beach, this five star resort offers a secluded, relaxing stay within easy reach of many of the area’s popular attractions. Recently upgraded rooms, suites and two, three and four-bedroom villas lie nestled amongst meandering saltwater lagoon pools, 147 hectares of tropical garden and an 18-hole golf course. The 20,000 square-metre network of swimmable lagoon pools – some hidden, some beachside – will keep kids happy, and parents can supervise from one of the private (and pre-booked) poolside cabanas. Young bellies

are easily satisfied at the swim-up bar, which serves everything from pizza to Barramundi spring rolls. Alternatively, Feast Restaurant (and its more upmarket sibling, Harrisons) is open from midday – Feast also serves a colossal buffet breakfast. Starwood Preferred Guest members with children aged four to 12 years can access an all-inclusive SPG Kids Pass, where kids eat for only $30 per day. These complimentary memberships are easily obtained online or at the front desk.

Families or larger groups requiring a little more than just interconnecting rooms, can opt for the two, three and four bedroom villas with fully equipped kitchen, laundry and private terrace. A range of renovated guest rooms and suites sleep two to four people,

some with direct lagoon access. The Port Douglas township, with its boutique shops, restaurants and ever-popular Sunday markets, is only a short walk along the beach – as is the Flagstaff Hill lookout, the Port Douglas viewing spot famed for its sweeping beach and mountain vistas. Also within walking distance is the local marina, the departure point for day trips out to the Great Barrier Reef, with various offerings of watersport activities including whitewater rafting, parasailing and kayaking. The resort’s tour desk will happily organise other family outings to locations such as Mossman Gorge, Kuranda Park and the Daintree Rainforest.

Visit sheratongrandmirageportdouglas.com

Sofitel Brisbane Central, Brisbane Sophisticated city stay

Sofitel Brisbane Central is ideally located right in the heart of the city. Set above Central Station, the hotel is within walking distance of almost everything in the city – Queen Street Mall and Roma Street Parkland are only 15 minutes away, with Suncorp Stadium and Brisbane Convention and Exhibition Centre also nearby. South Bank Parklands is just a brisk 20-minute walk, on the other side of the river, and is a hub of weekend markets (with more than 80 vendor stalls), gardens and alfresco dining. Free children’s workshops are run here every morning from 9am, offering classes in garden-

ing, science, music, art and sport. When the sun is shining – which is almost always guaranteed in Brisbane – the Sunday Sessions on the Green fill those evenings with live music, lawn games and trendy food and drink.

The Club Sofitel Lounge (accessible to those guests staying in Club rooms), on the hotel’s 30th floor, is a great place from which to relax and admire the cityscape, enjoy a drink and play board games before dinner. High Tea is served here from 1-3pm daily, or 2-4pm in the Cuvée Lounge Bar (for an additional fee of $48 per person). Three dining outlets present delicious a la carte and buffet options, and with 24-hour room service, an outdoor swimming pool and a full service spa, there are more than

enough amenities and services to keep everyone happy.

Children under the age of 11 years stay free when in the same room as their parent or guardian, and adjoining rooms can be requested at the time of booking. The Sofitel’s Magnifique Family Package offers a second room at 50 per cent off, with complimentary breakfast for the children when accompanied by paying adults. An indulgent kids’ bubble bath, complete with a signature Sofitel Frankie teddy bear, can be arranged on request; bedtime hot chocolate and warm milk and cookies are also available. Sofitel Brisbane Central For bookings and more information visit sofitelbrisbane.com.au

Surfers Paradise Marriott Resort & Spa

Action packed family fun

As far as family holidays in Queensland go, it’s impossible to look past the Gold Coast’s sunny beaches and must-visit theme parks and attractions.

Surfers Paradise Marriott Resort & Spa is brilliantly situated close to the Gold Coast’s iconic three kilometre-long Surfers Paradise Beach, and within minutes of local attractions such as SkyPoint Observation Desk, Infinity Attraction and the Wax Museum. The light rail station is only 300 metres away, and Gold Coast theme parks, including Wet ’n’ Wild and Sea World, are all within an easy half hour drive.

The resort’s 216 air-conditioned rooms and

suites, ranging from the standard room to the palatial Presidential Suite, each have private balconies overlooking the ocean, the Surfers Paradise skyline or the Gold Coast Hinterland. Bedecked with ponds and waterfalls, the Marriott is resort pool heaven: the swimmable saltwater lagoon features a false beach, whirlpool and even an artificial reef brimming with more than 300 tropical fish. A daily teens program, free for hotel guests, includes scheduled activities such as snorkelling, tennis, basketball, soccer, self defence classes and video game sessions. Other activities like bowling, mini golf and kayaking, are all within one kilometre of the resort. Families are welcomed at the Australian Trivia held on Saturday afternoons, and bikes are available for use on the various nearby bike trails. A Kids Club for younger children

is also available at an additional charge. The Gold Coast’s main drawcard for families with children is, of course, the theme parks. Attractions such as Warner Bros. Movie World, Wet ’n’ Wild, Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary, the Australian Outback Spectacular and Paradise Country are all within a 30-minute drive of the resort. Harbour Town, Australia’s largest outlet shopping centre, is just 15 minutes north by bus or light rail; and the open and airy Pacific Fair Shopping Centre, with more than 400 stores, is within 10 minutes of the resort and offers a free shuttle bus. Whale watching is especially popular from November to May, and numerous operators run daily tours out of Surfers Paradise.

Rates start at A$299 for a Standard Guest Room. marriott.com.au

The stunning boat or seaplane access only Calabash Bay Lodge offers a secluded eco-luxury nature escape on an exclusive use basis.

Encircled by 3 national parks, it’s perfect for couples or family retreats - with private chef in house dining, pillowtop beds with plush linens, Italian rain showers, Aspar & ROHR Remedy spa goodies, water toys including kayaks, SUPs, fishing rods & a guest boat - and it’s only 5 mins to the iconic Glenn Murcutt designed hatted restaurant Berowra Waters Inn.

Whatever the occasion, Calabash Bay Lodge is a beautiful place to relax, indulge and celebrate life.

INTRODUCING BUDS BY SHANGRI-LA, SINGAPORE

Shangri-La Hotel Singapore has just opened the doors on Buds by Shangri-La, the hotel’s unique interactive children’s play space for both hotel guests and day visitors. The mini-universe has been designed and constructed to provide a stimulating and immersive wonderland for kids, and includes 1300 square metres of outdoor space with a free-form pool, a playground with a giant pirate ship, and a water play zone with slash pads. The indoor area covers 850 square metres of extreme fun, with themed spaces based on the concepts of adventure, camaraderie, independence and nature. Buds has

been thoughtfully developed to invite children to self-direct their own play, and to bond with their parents in fun and interactive environments and activities: just try resisting Muddy – for budding artists; Stage – for superstars in the making; Bake – for mini master chefs; and Party – just for fun and celebrations!

A soft play toddler zone for little ones and their carers, and Explorer Zone for kids over 4 years (no parental supervision required) round out the Buds fun – plus a whopping 40,500 square metres of lush gardens to explore and in which the whole family can frolic!

Buds by Shangri-La

• Complimentary for guests booking the Themed Family Suite or Family Deluxe Room

• Small entry fee for other guests (varies depending on the age of the child) and day visitors

• Additional fee for classes and special activities

• Indoor space open Monday –Sunday 9am to 9pm

• Outdoor space open Monday –Sunday 9am to 7pm shangri-la.com/singapore/shangrila/for-kids

NEW MALDIVES ‘EXPERIENCE’ FOR FAMILIES

The Outrigger Konotta Maldives has launched its new Family Getaway Experience, ideal for families of four to six people, staying in their own private 282 square metre, two-bedroom luxury pool villa. The package also includes transfers by air and speedboat from Male to the Outrigger, and two hours’ babysitting each day. Kids activities are as varied as beach games, yoga, meditation, “Little” chef and “Teen” chef lessons, paper arts and craft classes, and t-shirt design, plus children eat free in the Blue Salt restaurant on the same meal plan as their parents. Families

DATE NIGHT AT VOMO

It doesn’t take long for the youngest guests of Vomo Island Fiji to figure out that Kids Village is no run-of-the-mill resort kids club. From the getgo – entry is via a wobbly suspension bridge – fun is the order of the day, with air-conditioned play rooms (and a theatre) hosting busy children engaged in all manner of creative activities. Getting involved at Vomo is as exciting as making a dream catcher from items collected during a beach walk and painting t-shirts with tribal motifs, and every evening VOMO sets up a just-for-kids restaurant on the back deck of the Kids Village, with a dedicated Chef preparing delicious stir-fry dishes, crumbed chicken, burgers, pasta, veggie sticks with dips, fruit plates and more.  Parents can happily enjoy a date night, kicking off at sunset at The Rocks bar.

can share the fun, swimming across the Equator, on a dolphin quest, in a semi-submarine, at a private family movie night, on a remote island picnic and participating in the island’s coral conservation and education activities, part of Outrigger’s worldwide OZONE program. Some activities are complimentary as part of The Family Getaway Experience package, and others attract an additional charge. Contact reservation.konotta@outrigger.mv for more information. outrigger.com

Executive Chef, Nick Samaras, has spent the last few months developing a brand-new menu for the recently-opened restaurant adjoining The Rocks. Two different menus are showcased on selected nights throughout the week, include a Spice Night of delicious Indian and Sri Lankan inspired dishes as well as Mediterranean night, where a menu of Greekinspired delicacies makes a wonderful alternative to the 3-course fine dining options offered at Reef Restaurant on alternative evenings.

Kids Village is free for children 4 to 12 years of age, and little ones aged 4 years and under can even attend in the company of their own Baby Butler, who will provide one on one care.  A Baby Butler can be engaged for just FJD$15 per hour, which is under A$10.  vomofiji.com

Jetty set

Tucked away in Berowra Waters, and accessible only by boat, Calabash Bay Lodge is a hidden gem where visitors can’t help but unwind. By Grace Smith.

© CALABASH BAY

CALABASH BAY LODGE SYDNEY

It’s Friday evening and we’re inching our car down a perilously narrow country road. There’s no phone signal here and the sun is slowly sinking into the horizon, stealing the light and making it increasingly difficult to consult our map. Suddenly the road bends sharply and after executing a near 180-degree turn we arrive at a riverbank. Carefully following the instructions we’ve been given, we discover a small wharf, half hidden by overgrown trees. We carry our bags down to the jetty and peer out at the horizon as the darkness begins to settle over the inky-black water.

The chilly breeze off the river is starting to make us shiver when we spot a small boat heading straight towards us, our host Manuel at the helm. The boat docks smoothly, our bags are loaded on board and before we know it we are bumping gently over the water, the cold wind whipping through our hair. I spot lights lining the water and, drawing closer, I realise they are coming from a row of houses clinging to the riverbank, seemingly half floating on the water.

My husband and I are spending the weekend at one of these extraordinary residences, accessible only by boat. Calabash Bay Lodge is a sprawling double storey house perched on the Hawkesbury River, less than an hour north of Sydney. With four bedrooms, three bathrooms, a well-equipped open-plan kitchen and two outdoor entertaining areas, it is the ideal location for a group getaway but, this weekend, we have it all to ourselves.  Night has well and truly descended by the time we get inside and we quickly whip up the meal that has been left for us in the fridge, pop the cork on our welcome bubbles and curl up in front of the chic eco-fireplace to defrost, before climbing under the warm covers in the master bedroom.

I wake to a room filled with warm buttery light and head directly to the balcony outside the bedroom. Throwing open the door, I am met with an endless expanse of water, the sun ricocheting off the undisturbed surface and filling the world with sparkling refracted light. Almost every bedroom in the house has its own balcony, but this one is the biggest and is furnished with a large outdoor lounge. It is here my husband finds me, two hours later, curled up with a blanket and a book pilfered from the shelf in the bedroom. At his behest I reluctantly leave my peaceful nook and head downstairs for breakfast. I needn’t have worried about tearing myself away from my stunning view – the dining room is bordered on three sides by floor-to-ceiling windows, and we eat our breakfast surrounded by water.

I needn’t have worried about tearing myself away from my stunning view – the dining room is bordered on three sides by floor-to-ceiling windows, and we eat our breakfast surrounded by water.

After breakfast, we step through a hallway door that leads, not to another bedroom but instead, to a private bush path leading to Calabash Point. We are immediately greeted by the neighbour’s dog, Rascal, who guides us up the hill to the ruins of a 100-year-old hotel, abandoned by hotelier John Fretus who had wrongly predicted the government would soon be building a road that way. We walk a little further and are rewarded with panoramic views over the twinkling bay, compelling us to head back down to the water.

The property comes equipped with an easy-to-operate four-person boat (no licence required) as well as tonnes of fishing gear, plus kayaks and canoes for exploring the waterways. We pack a picnic in the quaint wicker basket provided, grab a couple of fishing rods, button up the boat’s wind protection shield and head out onto the water. Fifteen minutes down the river, we dock at Pelican Island, noting that we appear to be the only people there. Following the winding bush track past the old church (the Island was once owned by the Church of England) we spread out our blankets and enjoy a private island picnic among the trees.

After an abortive attempt at catching some fish, we head home for a relaxing afternoon spent curled up in the swinging hammock. As the evening air becomes too chilly to stay outdoors, I retreat for a bubble bath, perfumed with Australian botanicals products, before dinner.

While venturing to the mainland for dinner is certainly possible, we are reluctant to leave our little slice of paradise. Luckily, our host Manuel also provides a private chef service, boating over fresh ingredients from his own home, which is just around the river bend. My husband and I sit at the candlelit table while Manuel serves us a perfectly executed menu of pan-fried scallops, herb-crusted rack of lamb and baked kataifi, followed by a cheese platter and petits fours. As we enjoy our restaurant-quality food we ask Manuel about the 13 years he has spent living on the river. He tells us stories of how neighbours help one another carry in new furniture (home delivery is not an option here) and explains the difficulties of hosting house parties with 30 boats docking at one jetty.

Listening to his stories, with the morning’s return home looming, we discuss coming back next year, and express our hope that everything will still be the same.

“Nothing changes on the river,” Manuel assures us. And why would it? Life here is pretty close to paradise.

FIVE-STAR LUXURY HOTEL SUITES AROUND THE WORLD

VILLA KENNEDY, FRANKFURT JUNIOR SUITE

Size: 45-55 square metres / Price: From €545 (about A$852) / Reviewed by: Gary Allen

Hotel

A Rocco Forte hotel, Villa Kennedy is located on the south bank of Frankfurt’s River Main. This luxurious boutique hotel was constructed around the Villa Speyer, the former grand home of a local banking family that was built in 1901. The hotel’s 163 rooms, including 36 suites, surround the extensive garden courtyard. The name is a tribute to President John F Kennedy, who visited Frankfurt in 1963, the year of his death. Many large-scale photos of JFK and other old-Hollywood celebrities can be found hanging on the walls.

Suite

Villa Kennedy has seven suite categories. Our Junior Suite overlooked the fountains in the courtyard and had a separate lounge room, dedicated workstation, and large marble bathroom with separate shower and underfloor heating.

Locale

Located in the exclusive residential neighbourhood of Sachsenhausen, with its bustling bars and restaurants, the hotel is a unique retreat from the buzz of the financial metropolis. Villa Kennedy is a five-minute walk from the well-known Museum Embankment, a cultural hub where you could spend several days exploring museums such as the Staedel Museum and Liebieghaus. Sights such as the Frankfurt Opera House and Cathedral are a short stroll away, on the other side of the river. Villa Kennedy is 15 kilometres from the airport.

Look and Feel

Villa Kennedy fuses old-world charm with modern flair. Materials, textures and colours com-

bine to create a minimalistic luxury with a retro feel. Timber floors and mirrored walls, neutral colours, and high-quality furnishings make the rooms feel more like a home than a hotel. Our bathroom had a beautiful glass mosaic on the wall.

Eat in Gusto Restaurant and the JFK Bar have a relaxed, sophisticated feel. Gusto specialises in authentic Italian food (the house specialty is ravioli with green sauce) and has indoor and outdoor seating. Breakfast is abundant with both buffet and a la carte options. We chose from the healthy Rocco Forte Nourish menu and enjoyed green smoothies and acai bowls with toasted buckwheat granola, banana and fresh berries. To keep us fuelled for our day of exploring, we ordered some superfood energy balls to take with us.

Treat yourself

The four-level Villa Spa includes a beauty salon, 15-metre indoor pool, Jacuzzi, Finnish sauna and steam room, and eight treatment rooms. Products are 100 per cent organic and the spa menu has about 120 treatments! The gym features Technogym equipment, and personal training and private instruction for yoga and Pilates are available.

Special touches

Organic toiletries and an organic facial night serum are left on the pillow at turndown. Book a Rocco Forte Nourish healthy in-room bar for snacks such as raw bars, kale crisps, veggie crackers, nuts and coconut water.

Free WiFi Online check-in 24 room service

Upgrade

At 326 square metres, the Presidential Suite occupies the entire top floor of Villa Speyer. It includes a private lift, open fireplace, baby grand piano and bullet-proof glass. It can be configured to form threebedroom suite.

FIVE-STAR LUXURY HOTEL SUITES AROUND THE WORLD

PARK HYATT BANGKOK

PARK SUITE KING

Size: 68-80 square metres / Price: From A$900 per room per night / Reviewed by: Richard Bunting

Hotel

Built on the former gardens of the British Embassy, the Park Hyatt Bangkok brings the brand’s traditional luxury to one of the world’s busiest cities. Opened in May last year, the hotel has an expansive simplistic lobby with high ceilings and spectacular views. It is located on the 10th floor, putting you above the fast-paced city and giving you a feeling of tranquility. The hotel comprises 222 rooms including 32 suites, four dining and bar areas, a fitness centre, and a pool and spa.

Locale

The hotel is located in the heart of downtown Bangkok at the newly developed Central Embassy mall. Premium shopping destinations, fine dining and street food, museums, temples and much more are at your fingertips.

Look and feel

Featuring many alcoves and hidden spaces, the hotel has been designed to give a sense of privacy and elegance. Quiet spaces are plentiful and views over the British Embassy gardens and Bangkok skyline add to the sense of calm. The rooms are spacious and comfortable and floor-to-ceiling windows allow for an abundance of natural light.

Eat in

The hotel has four bars and restaurants. The Embassy Room, the main choice for dinner, offers Western and Asian-influenced cuisine, and specialises in seafood. The Living Room offers international and Thai comfort food as well as high tea in the afternoon and wine and canapés in the evening. The threefloor Penthouse Bar & Grill is a collection

of six entertainment venues – one of Bangkok’s new hotspots. A cocktail at the bar or dinner at the grill is a must during your stay. For a tipple in a quieter, more sophisticated environment, there is The Bar, located near reception.

Special touches

The extensive art collection complements the hotel’s classic style. It includes works by renowned Japanese artist Hiroshi Sawada and German photographer Andreas Gursky, among others. Hosted tours of the collection can be arranged with the concierge.

Upgrade

High level suites offer very spacious rooms inclusive of separate living space, dining area, pantry and/or kitchen (depending on the room category) and powder room Free WiFi Online check-in 24 room service

FIVE-STAR LUXURY HOTEL SUITES AROUND THE WORLD

PULLMAN PARIS ROISSY CDG AIRPORT

CLASSIC ROOM

Size: 26 square metres / Price: From €127 (about A$199) / Reviewed by: Gary Allen

Hotel

Conveniently located right in the middle of Charles de Gaulle (CDG) Airport, Paris (Terminal 3), the Pullman offers guests a welcome place to rest and recover before the next departing flight or in between business meetings. It’s a relaxed atmosphere, and one that the hotel works hard to achieve, with its upscale style, comfort and staff, who are sourced from around the world – a peaceful haven, with 305 rooms and suites, in the heart of one of Europe’s busiest airports.

Locale

Not only is The Pullman mere steps from the airport terminals, but downtown Paris is an easy 35 minutes by train. The CDG Val Airport Shuttle takes passengers to other terminals within minutes, or you can walk if your terminal is one of the closer ones. Other than the airport, the hotel is close to the Aeroville shopping centre and the Villepinte Exhibition Centre, which hosts more than 450 exhibitions each year. The Paris Le Bourget, which holds the world’s largest air show, is only 45 minutes away. As the hotel is positioned in the centre of a transport hub, the TGV, RER Line B (the direct suburban line to Paris for only €10.30) and long distance trains are easily accessible.

Look and Feel

The Pullman’s signature cosmopolitan atmosphere isn’t lost in this hotel. Designer Christophe Pillet keeps the look and feel of the rooms refined, light and warm. The soothing natural colour scheme encourages relaxation and rest, and the large king size bed and flat screen TV kept me feeling comfortable and happy. The Wi-Fi was impres -

sive and the workspace was of a decent size. I almost felt like I was in my own apartment for a day, as the room offered plenty of space to spread my things out and rearrange my bags for the next flight. The spacious bathroom had large mirrors and a fantastic rain shower. All amenities, including the tea and coffee, were quality products.

Eat In

For an airport lodging, the breakfast was great. It had everything you’d want and expect from a 5-star hotel. Coffee and eggs were made to order and there was an abundance of fresh fruit, cereals, porridge, crepes and pancakes. It’s a bright, light and spacious restaurant with 10 metre-high ceilings and an ample amount of seating. Staff were always on hand if anything was needed.

Treat Yourself

I like to have somewhere to workout, stretch or do yoga before my flight, and the Pullman Fitness Lounge didn’t disappoint. There are whirlpool baths, a sauna and even a hammam, and the 20 metre indoor pool is great for laps or a relaxing cool down swim. The fitness centre also has the latest generation of machines by Technogym.

Special Touches

While I am usually very organised when travelling and always know my flight details, it was nice to know that the hotel took that extra step to look after me, reminding me of my flight departure times and when and where to check in. This would have been particularly useful had my flight been delayed without my knowledge.

Free WiFi Online check-in 24 room service

Upgrade

The 60 square metre Exclusive Suite features a spacious (20 square metre) terrace, lounge area and bedroom with king size bed. Parking, breakfast and complimentary on demand movies are included.

16 Murphy Street, South Yarra, Melbourne Victoria 3141 Australia

Ph: +61 3 9868 8222 www.thelyall.com

HÔTEL DE PARIS MONTE-CARLO UNVEILS DIAMOND SUITE PRINCESS GRACE

For a cool €30,000-€40,000 (approximately AUD$46,000-$63,000) per night, depending on the season, Monte-Carlo’s newest, ultra luxury penthouse suite can be your next Monaco bolthole.

Dedicated to Her Serene Highness Princess Grace of Monaco, arguably the most globally famous Monégasque, the Diamond Suite Princess Grace sprawls across Levels 7 and 8 of the legendary Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo, developed and opened in 1864 by The Société des Bains de Mer (SBM). The hotel was a favourite of the Princess, who chose it as the venue for many special occasions in her lifetime, both public and private. Its impressive provenance spans decades hosting Hollywood’s leading actors, featuring in Hollywood films, and accommodating Sir Winston Churchill, in his own 6th floor residence, across many winter sojourns post-WWII.

In 2015, SBM began ‘the most important renovation and restructuring program in the hotel’s history’, commencing with the auction of over 4,000 lots from Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo – furniture to fittings. The unveiling of the new Princess Grace Suite is an integral part of that rolling transformation (scheduled for full completion in November 2018). Refined and elegant, like its namesake, the décor of the Princess Grace Suite is subtly imbued with some of her work, framed photographs gifted by her family and the Palace, tasteful floral arrangements, and personal memorabilia, including displays of her favourite poems and books. The hotel says this extraordinary suite was designed to reflect the profound and

lasting legacy left by ‘Grace of Monaco’ on the history of the Principality and on its people, and is “the most exclusive and extraordinary suite on the Riviera.”

At 910m², and with 180° views of the Mediterranean, the immense space includes in-suite reception and check-in, a private in-suite lift between the two floors, two bedrooms and an office, two living rooms and a dining room, kitchen, two full bathrooms with bathtubs and showerhamman, sauna, wine cellar and open bar, four terraces and a heated infinity pool with a wave system, and a pool house, shower area and jacuzzi.

iPads in every room control the suite’s home automation system, with a centralised system for each of the two floors; there is also an in-suite concierge service, housekeeper to assist with unpacking and packing, daily laundry and dry cleaning services, dedicated 24/7 telephone number, and luxury car or helicopter transfers, with Meet and Greet services.

Additionally included in the Diamond Suite Princess Grace is a dedicated private room at the renowned Thermes Marins Monte-Carlo spa in winter, or a tent at the Monte-Carlo Beach Club in summer; and since Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo is home to the Michelin-starred Le Louis XV – Alain Ducasse, an in-suite Alain Ducasse dinner can also be arranged. hoteldeparismontecarlo.com/luxury-rooms-suites/diamond-suites/diamondsuite-princesse-grace

An Urban sanctuary of luxury and design

Rare.

An appetite for

Italy

Rome’s new foodie neighbourhood is also one of its oldest. Lee Tulloch meanders through Testaccio, and makes more than a few flavoursome pit stops.

Photography by Tony Amos

RISTORANTE ANGELINO WAS ONCE A BUTCHER’S SHOP BUT NOW IS A CHARMING RESTAURANT FULL OF ANTIQUE FURNITURE.

hen in Rome – eat trapizzino. This utterly decadent snack was unknown to me until I took a culinary walking tour of the city last summer with a local guide from Eating Europe. I’m a great fan of culinary walking tours. Whenever I hit any new city, I like to spend my first hours strolling non-touristy neighbourhoods with a guide who not only knows the best places to dine, but can weave a story about how food, culture and history blend to forge that city’s identity. If you want an intimate glimpse of a society, the easiest place to find it is in the food its people eat. Small-group walking tours are a way of slipping into the vibe of a place effortlessly. If I want to eat well and avoid the tourist clichés, it’s crucial. A good guide will happily share tips on language, culture and customs, how to use the subway, and pretty much anything you’re aching to know before you head off alone. Rome is actually quite intimate if you treat it as a series of neighbourhoods, rather than trying to tackle the entire metropolis. I was interested in the relatively unknown (to me, at least) working-class neighbourhood of Testaccio, which was once home to the city’s largest slaughterhouse, but is becoming increasingly gentrified. That slaughterhouse, dating from 1888, has been transformed into the MACRO Museum of Contemporary Art, which is open 4-10pm every day except Mondays. Art enthusiasts need to eat and fashionable restaurants are appearing amongst the traditional neighbourhood favourites.

Testaccio is not as gentrified as, say, popular Trastevere across the river, so it’s still relatively unexplored, although it’s not far from the historical centre. There are still a number of public housing buildings and families who have lived there for generations. The main square, where we start the tour at 5.30 on a gorgeous, golden afternoon, is lined with trees, with a large fountain covered in boisterous children in the centre. Like most raffish neighbourhoods it’s also one of Rome’s nightlife hotspots. Our guide, Eric, a young Roman, tells us that people generally drive around for 30 minutes at night looking for a park-

ing spot. But in the late afternoon it hasn’t reached peak craziness. It feels slow-paced, languid, from an earlier era.

Romans dine at 8 or 9pm and it’s traditional to start the evening with an aperativo (meaning ‘to open’), a drink that always has a bitter component to aid digestion. We cross the road to the cute Tram Depot cafe, via Marmorata, and have an impromptu picnic, as there are no tables, on an Astroturf lawn under a shady tree, sipping a spritz, the drink apparently first created by Austrians, who thought Italian wine was too dry so spritzed it with water. The Aperol Spritz was invented in Venice in the 20th century. Two parts Prosecco and one part Aperol, “it’s almost a religion,” Eric says. The Romans also make their spritzes with Campari.

Our second stop is at Mastro Donato, via Luca della Robbia 21/23, a simple pizzeria where we’re served an appetiser before dinner fritti, or crispy fried vegetables, which are washed down with Prosecco. The vegetables, traditionally artichokes, zucchini, cauliflower, beans and onions, are served in a paper cornetto. The tour peaks early – this ends up being my favourite dish of the night. It’s a very old Roman recipe, dating back to the Middle Ages, and it’s delicate and light as air.

Pizza is then brought out, to everyone’s delight. The classic pairing with pizza, we are told, is beer. The original pizza invented in Napoli is thicker and fluffier than the Roman version. This pizza is made with natural yeast that is fed every day with more water and flour to create microorganisms that make the pizza easier to digest. So, even though we’re in for a night of eating, we are encouraged to dig in. The owners hardly need to convince us.

A meat course follows at our next stop. We stroll to Masto, via Galvani 39/41, which is a bar behind a charming old grocery store, both run by the Polombi family since 1917. In cool, dark rooms we’re served Frascati with delicate layers of salty charcuterie and hunks of cheese served on rustic cutting boards. In an anteroom an eyewatering selection of bar food is laid out, but we have been warned that a lot more food is to come, so I restrain myself.

It’s hard to believe the lovely Ristorante Angelina, via Galvani 24a, with its rooms full

of shabby chic furniture, glassware and antique linens, was once a butcher’s shop, dating back to 1890. The sloping timber floor is the only clue. It’s here that foodies flock for authentic quinto quarto (offal), coda alla vaccinara (oxtail) and trippa alla romana (tripe). We’re served huge bowls of tripe in tomato sauce with hints of mint and oregano, and oxtail with a touch of dark chocolate, served with a red wine from Puglia. Just when we thought we’d had enough, a bowl of meatballs is proudly brought out. I can’t help feeling our Italian hosts are rather unhappy when the mostly non-European group pleads they’ve had sufficient. It isn’t very Roman of us to turn down a second helping.

It’s not even dessert time. Our next stop is Trapizzino, via Giovanni Branca 88, a little hole-in-the-wall famous for its eponymous trapizzino, a thick, triangular pizza bread pocket filled with a stew of chicken steeped in white wine and rosemary. The chicken dish is a classic of cucina povera, humble peasant food, and someone truly diabolical worked out that it would be delicious stuffed in a pizza crust. It is, but it’s not kind to the waistline, especially when it comes after the offal course. Next time – and I will go back – I want to eat it when I’m starving and it’s freezing cold outside.

Perversely, when gelato is suggested, I suddenly have room for a scoop. We drop into Giolitti, via Amerigo Vespucci 35, which has served up some of the city’s best since 1914. The trick with choosing a gelato, Eric explains, is to avoid those admittedly luscious-looking mountains of coloured ice. They’re just inflated with air. The best gelato is kept in canisters and the colours are consistent with the original ingredients. (Blueberry should not be Smurf-coloured.)

The only thing to do now is to walk off the walking tour.

Experience

Eating Europe hosts small group culinary tours in Rome, Florence, London, Amsterdam and Prague. eatingeuropetours.com

Far Left: The restaurant Masto lies behind a grocery store that has been operated by the same family for 100 years;

Left: The famous Trapizzino is a chicken ragout wrapped in a triangle of pizza bread;

Below: Crispy fritti fried vegetables, in a paper cornetto at Mastro Donato.

ONE WOMAN DIES EVERY 10 HOURS FROM OVARIAN CANCER

THERE IS NO EARLY DETECTION TEST

IT COULD BE YOUR MOTHER, WIFE, SISTER, FRIEND OR EVEN YOUR DAUGHTER

RESEARCH IS THE ONLY ANSWER

Soy delicious

THERE IS NO EARLY DETECTION TEST

HELP US DEVELOP ONE. DONATE NOW VISIT OCRF.COM.AU OR CALL 1300 OVARIAN

Grace Smith discovers Ishikawa, on Japan’s west coast, one delicate mouthful at a time.

Less than an hour after stumbling off the red-eye to Tokyo I am settling my travel-weary body into a gargantuan leather seat in the new Gran Class section of the Hokuriku Shinkansen. I lean back and accept a beverage menu from the attendant as we shoot away from the city, wondering if I should follow the lead of the businessman opposite me who is knocking back a pre-9am scotch. Sipping a slightly less daring but equally delicious sencha tea, I turn my attention to the view from the window, watching as the crowded city skyline gently gives way to a lush mountainous landscape dotted with lacquered black rooftops. I’m on my way to Ishikawa province, a seaside region on Japan’s west coast, which has been attracting a steady stream of domestic tourists since the 2015 Shinkansen reduced the travel time from Tokyo from four hours to just two and a half. Known affectionately throughout Japan as “Little Kyoto”, Ishikawa has plenty to offer; one of the top three gardens in Japan, an historic Geisha town, and the sprawling grounds and castle of a former feudal lord. Handicrafts flourish there too, with shops selling everything from handmade gold leaf and lacquerware to traditional banjos made, somewhat unsettlingly, from authentic cat skin. But most interesting to me is the region’s highly respected food scene. Touted by many in Japan as home to the country’s best sushi, Ishikawa specialises in fresh seafood and premium beef, and I am eager to sample both.

Sushi Ikkan

As we pull up in front of Sushi Ikkan, I wonder why the driver has stopped – surely this can’t be the restaurant? We are surrounded by rice paddies and the low-slung concrete structure in front of us seems an unlikely home for a refined sushi eatery. Seemingly unperturbed by our agricultural surrounds, our guide ushers us confidently through the door. Inside, a bespectacled sushi master stands poised behind a single 10-seater bar. As we perch on our stools, he springs into action, moulding portions of rice with an artist’s precision, before layering on a dab of wasabi and crowning the creation with a perfect slice of yellowtail. He places one jewellike morsel reverentially on each of our plates,

Many of Ishikawa’s best restaurants have very unassuming exteriors and can be difficult to spot. Keep an eye out for oren (Japanese curtains) hanging over the entrance, which indicates that the shop or restaurant is open for business.

along with a sliver of pickled ginger. This ritual continues for well over an hour as we are presented with one piece of sushi at a time, the procession including whelk, fluke, eel, abalone and shiro-ebi (white shrimp). Much of the fish is unrecognisable to me, but all of it tastes as if it was caught that morning (and it may well have been), while the silky white rice is rich and flavourful without overpowering the seafood. As we reemerge into the rice paddies, I realise with a start that I have probably just tasted the best sushi I will ever eat.

43-5 Kajiimachi, Kaga, Ishikawa +81761 74 8555

Rokkakudo Grill and Bar

No self-respecting carnivore can visit Japan without seeking out some theatrically prepared wagyu beef, and I am certainly no exception. Although, at this teppanyaki restaurant, the chef’s culinary performance has to compete with the impressive leafy cityscape vying for our attention through the floor-to-ceiling windows of our private dining room. We exclaim over the views as the waitstaff take our orders, but once the chef fires up the grill in front of us he’s impossible to ignore. He begins by cutting expertly through what appears to be a giant root and it’s not until it begins to fry that I realise it is garlic, surely the largest single bulb I have ever seen. Next on the grill is the local wagyu beef, which is sliced and flipped with practised, fluid movements, before being served along with the crispy fried garlic and a pile of fresh sprouts. The tender meat contrasts terrifically with the crunchy garlic and I’m ashamed to say my bean sprouts go untouched as I savour the rich flavours of the region’s premium local wagyu.

1-38-27 Higashiyama, Kanazawa, Ishikawa +81 76 252 5115 asadaya.co.jp/rokkakudou/

L’Atelier de Noto

The two-hour drive from Ishikawa’s capital, Kanazawa, to the Noto Peninsula is worth tak-

ing simply to experience the sizable portion of the journey spent driving on the beach, with the waves of the Sea of Japan lapping just metres from your tyres. We’ve risen early to attend the 1000-year-old fresh food market in Wajima, before heading to L’Atelier de Noto to taste a local specialty: Noto beef, a rare type of wagyu, raised on the Peninsula. Housed in a refurbished ryokan (traditional house), the restaurant has been outfitted in sleek, minimalist style. The chef trained and worked in France before returning to Japan to open L’Atelier de Noto, where he serves fine French cuisine using uniquely Japanese ingredients. I am dubious about the fusion, but my fears are allayed as an appetiser of tuna tartare is placed before us. The dishes that follow are an elegant marriage between the two cuisines, with the most memorable being the surprisingly meaty pufferfish, a slice of Noto beef accompanied by a beef-filled cigar pastry, and a crème brûlée to rival that of any Parisian eatery.

4-142 Kawaimachi, Wajima, Ishikawa +81 768 23 4488 atelier-noto.com

Yamato Soy Sauce Factory

When our guide announces that we are stopping off at a soy sauce factory for some ice cream, we think there must some kind of translation issue. We are mistaken. The soy sauce soft serve at Yamato Soy Sauce Factory is a local secret that we are about to be let it on. As I’m handed my cone, I sniff the light brown swirl suspiciously, trying to ascertain just how unpleasant the first mouthful will be. Throwing caution to the wind, I take a generous mouthful, braced for the worst. I’m surprised – the flavour is subtle malt, with a hint of salt and plenty of sweetness, and it’s actually quite delicious. I wouldn’t be surprised to see it on the menu of Gelato Messina in the near future, but hopefully it remains a local secret for a little longer.

4-E-170, Oonomachi, Kanazawa, Ishikawa +81 76 268 1248 yamato-soysauce-miso.com

©

YAMOTO SOY SAUCE FACTORY

2018 MICHELIN GUIDE ‘FIRSTS’

The inaugural 2018 Michelin Guide Bangkok has honoured 17 restaurants with either one or two Michelin stars, with Gaggan, Le Normandie (in The Mandarin Oriental Hotel) and Mezzaluna (in Labua Hotel) each earning two star distinction. The Bangkok guide includes restaurants known for their traditional Thai cuisine, as well as those presenting international cuisine, with one star awarded to modest street food stall Jay Fai, for its “… tasty crab curries, dry congee and crab omelettes … cooked over homemade charcoal stoves as homage to a 70-year-long tradition.” guide.michelin.sg/en/michelin-guide-bangkok-thailand-2018-full-results

IHG Hotels in Japan is celebrating a record 4 Michelin stars across three restaurants – ANA InterContinental Tokyo’s Pierre Gagnaire, InterContinental Osaka’s Pierre and ANA Crowne Plaza Osaka’s Maison Tateru Yoshino. Legendary chef Pierre Gagnaire’s eponymous restaurant retained its two stars for the seventh year in a row, since opening in 2010; and this year Maison Tateru Yoshino became the second restaurant in Osaka to be awarded one Michelin star after Pierre, which retained its one star status for a second consecutive year.

Finding the pressure to maintain its 17-year, three star Michelin rating untenable, Le Suquet restaurant, in the Aveyron region of southern France, has asked to be allowed to ‘give back’ its stars. This is the first time in the Guide’s 118-year history that a restaurant has made such a request – a reluctant one at that, from head chef Sébastien Bras – and it has been granted. Bras says he would like to focus on creating new things in his kitchen without the added stress of appealing to Michelin’s 'inspectors'.

bras.fr/en/en-le-suquet

CYCLE WALK SAFARI AFRICA

THE ‘BOISTEROUSLY ELEGANT’ LOBSTER CLUB, NYC

Midtown Manhattan has a hip and fun new playground, with the opening of The Lobster Club in the Seagram Building at 98 E. 53rd St., between Park and Lexington Avenues. A joint undertaking between Major Food Group, artist and architect, Peter Marino (Louis Vuitton, Dior, Chanel, Zegna and Bulgari), and Michelin-starred chef Tasuku Murakami, The Lobster Club sets Murakami’s sushi artistry in a space Marino says challenges “… expectations of what a Japanese restaurant could look and feel like.” Marino commissioned artist Laura Bergman to pour and drip paint over floor tiles in a paean to Jackson Pollock; bronze walls shimmer under Marino-designed, Hervé Descottes-created lighting; and Marino’s inspiration and creations, including his own Picasso-inspired drawings and sculptures, infuse everything from the uniforms to fanciful 'hanging' banquettes. While sushi will be prominent on The Lobster Club’s menu, Chef Murakami will also create new versions of classic Japanese dishes. “My approach to food brings a tremendous amount of respect for ingredients, and staying true to the flavors provided by each one,” he says. “The menu is divided into hot and cold options; everything’s designed to be shared, with the focus on food and fun, not formality.”

thelobsterclub.com

Guided & fully supported tours to see Kruger & the Blyde River Canyon in South Africa, to hike the Maasai Mara or Rift Valley in Kenya & a trek to see gorillas in Uganda. Talk to our expert team to arrange your next active holiday in Africa:

1 Bose QuietControl 30 wireless headphones, A$449.00, bose.com.au

2 Dr. Spiller First Class Travel Kit, A$179 dr-spiller.com.au

3 Sisley Paris Ecological Compound 60ml, A$180, sisley-paris.com/en-AU

4 Lancôme Teint Idole Ultra Wear Custom Glow Drops, US$35 (about A$45), lancome-usa.com

5 Porte-á-Vie Desvalido Silk Ruffle Bralette and Classic Silk French Knicker in Rose Gold, A$119.95 and A$89.95, porteavie.com

6 Victorinox Maverick on Steel Bracelet Watch, A$800.00, victorinox.com

7 Slip Silk Pillowcase Queen in Pink, A$85.00 and Silk Eye Mask in White, A$49.95 slip.com.au

8 Crumpler Liquid Breakfast Tote Bag, A$69 crumpler.com

For additional information please contact (02) 9363-1088 l info@avstev.com.au