Explore the rugged and spectacular Kimberley coastline as it’s never been seen before, in unprecedented A&K style, aboard the all-new, all-luxury ‘Le Laperouse’, exclusively chartered and reimagined by Abercrombie & Kent for this singular voyage.
Assemble in Broome for a leisurely, two-day beachfront prelude to our all-inclusive exploration, then join the world-renowned A&K Expedition Team on board, with experts including award-winning geologists, marine scientists, photographers and indigenous experts, who will bring to life some of Australia’s and the world’s most spectacular land and seascapes.
Meander through far- ung islands, ancient cultures, stunning tidal waterfalls, and biodiverse coral reefs. Highlights of the 12 night journey from Broome to Darwin include the extraordinary Horizontal Falls, Montgomery Reef, the cave art at Ra Point, frequent Zodiac excursions, humpback whales, sea turtles and saltwater crocodiles, a helicopter ight to Mitchell Falls, and a xed-wing ightseeing experience over the Bungle Bungles, all included.
e ship itself has been specially recon gured for this one departure, accommodating only 150 guests, with beautifully-appointed cabins and spacious suites, all with balconies, plus a rst-of-its-kind underwater lounge, in nity pool, and exquisite dining.
Don’t miss this opportunity to experience one of the world’s last great wildernesses in incomparable A&K style.
150 Guests | 13 days | 20 June – 2 July 2019 | from AU$18,295pp*
Talk to your travel agent or call A&K on 1300 851 800
T h e w or l d’s 4 - s ta r ai r lin e for the 3 r d y ear i n a ro w
VOLOS
ATHENS (PIRAEUS)
KAVALA/PHILIPPI KOS EPHESUS (KUSADASI)
MONTE CARLO
PROVENCE (MARSEILLE)
FLORENCE/PISA/ TUSCANY (LIVORNO)
ROME (CIVITAVECCHIA)
•
AJACCIO (CORSICA) AMALFI/POSITANO
BELFAST
• • • • •
ATHENS (PIRAEUS)
SANTORINI
BRUGES (ZEEBRUGGE) VISBY • • • •
HERAKLION (CRETE)
• • • • • • • • • GLASGOW
•
It might be the hope of a mountain gorilla encounter that has lured most visitors to unassuming Rwanda over the years, but the ‘Land of a Thousand Hills’ is now emerging as a major new player in Africa’s luxury tourism market. Discover what, apart from a possible Dian Fossey moment, is luring well-heeled travellers to this lush, mountainous country at: luxurytravelmag.com.au/article/
why-rwanda-is-africas-new-luxury-destination-to-watch
No fewer than 24 new hotels and more than 1200 hotel rooms have opened, on average, each year in Brisbane in the past four years. This “New World City”, as dubbed by local government, is in the midst of a luxury boom and with even more five-star properties in the pipeline, it begs the question: where to stay? We round-up and break-down the hot, high-end newcomers to the ‘Brisvegas’ accommodation scene at: luxurytravelmag.com.au/article/ where-to-stay-brisbanes-luxury-hotel-boom
Oceania Cruises has unveiled a new generation of Owner’s Suites furnished exclusively by Ralph Lauren Home. The suites on board Oceania Marina and Oceania Riviera feature a nautical palette and reflect Lauren’s appreciation of sailing, Hollywood glamour and timeless beauty. Discover the suites dedicated to “America’s designer” at our new luxury cruising website: cruise.luxurytravelmag.com.au/ oceania-cruises-reveals-ralph-lauren-designed-suites
Cambodia’s newest luxury resort, Six Senses Krabey Island, is celebrating its opening with a Private Experience Package featuring a 20 per cent saving on its best available rates for guests who stay at the resort between now and December 21 or between January 11 and 31. The package includes four nights in a pool villa suite, a specially crafted tasting menu for lunch and dinner for two. Read more at: luxurytravelmag.com.au/ 2018/11/six-senses-krabey-island
The luxury travel world never ceases to amaze and surprise me. Just when I think I’ve seen every first-class airline cabin, five-star hotel room, all-suite cruise liner and exclusive beachfront villa, along comes another cutting-edge concept that takes my breath away.
I always expect to be wowed on any trip to the Maldives, with its kaleidoscopic waters, coral reef lagoons and uber-luxury resorts, but nothing prepared me for the Beach Bubble – a new glamping concept on the tiny island of Finolhu in Baa Atoll – which graces the cover of this special edition of Luxury Travel Magazine
Perched on a secluded sandbank away from the island’s retro-chic resort, the transparent inflatable ‘tent’ offers the chance to spend an unforgettable night under the stars in exceptional style and luxury.
Launched just six days before my arrival, the bubble is the brainchild of The Small Maldives Island Co, a relatively new and innovative resort company with strong Australian connections that manages Finolhu and nearby Amilla Fushi, as well as Huvafen Fushi, north of the capital, Malé. All three islands deliver a dazzling Maldives experience, as you’ll see in my review, starting page 116.
Australia is another constant surprise, delivered this issue on a memorable road journey to Kakadu National Park in the Northern Territory. These fragile yet monumental wetlands are home to abundant wildlife, ancient Aboriginal culture and pristine wilderness, all of which can be explored in comfort with leading luxury tour operator Inspiring Journeys. My Kadadu Dreaming feature starts on page 134.
The surprises keep coming with our Out of This World cover story, showcasing what we believe are the 20 most intriguing, surprising and rapidly trending destinations on the planet (page 46). Along with
features on France’s alluring Luberon, Macao, Bali, Western Australia, South Africa’s Cape Winelands, Bhutan and Switzerland, this edition is packed with wonderful ideas to place on your 2019 bucket list.
And finally, I had the privilege recently of meeting acclaimed American photographer Steve McCurry, the man who shot the iconic ‘Afghan Girl’ image, which captured the imagination of millions of people around the world when it appeared on the cover of National Geographic in 1985.
Steve continues to travel the world, most recently in partnership with Silversea Cruises, and he kindly agreed to share more beautiful images from his global explorations. The result is a personal and intimate photo essay I’m honoured to share with you (page 142).
I hope you are as surprised and delighted with the result as I am.
Luxury Travel Magazine’s copy editor travelled to South Africa where a brief stop in the Cape Winelands made a lasting impression. A picturesque village nestled between towering mountains, Franschhoek is a gourmand’s delight, says Kate. “A dream destination for those who love a long lunch; the only problem is choosing where to have it.”
“You couldn’t ask for a more welcoming and approachable city to set about exploring after 34 hours of travel than Zurich,” insists Auckland-based writer Anna King Shahab. Guided by her taste buds, Anna savoured lakeside Zurich in late summer and dined on plate-sized rösti, Champagneflavoured Luxemburgerli and crisp Chasselas from Switzerland’s Lavaux wine region.
As a former deputy travel editor for The Weekend Australian, Judith Elen has journeyed far and wide. Now as a widely published freelance writer, she has more time to explore, and Macao was a major discovery. Expecting fivestar glamour, she found so much more in the city’s fishing villages, 15th-century Jesuit churches and rustic Portuguese kitchens.
Steve McCurry has been one of the most iconic voices in contemporary photography for more than 30 years, with scores of major magazine and book covers, more than a dozen tomes, and countless exhibitions around the world to his name. In partnership with Silversea, he presents a very personal and intimate photo essay of his global explorations.
Australia’s most exclusive luxury lodge with just four pavilions and all-inclusive rates making your stay effortless prettybeachhouse.com© Photograph by Bruno Barbey
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Welcome to the new Shipwreck Lodge, a remarkable African safari camp, which opened in June, set on Namibia’s Skeleton Coast and designed to resemble the shipwrecks and bleached whale bones scattered along this hauntingly beautiful desert coastline. Located 45 kilometres north of Möwe Bay, this 10-cabin eco-lodge is the creative vision of Namibian design duo Nina Maritz and Melanie van der Merwe, a cutting-edge yet comfortable retreat in one of the world’s most inhospitable environments. The newest sibling in Natural Selection’s family of character-filled camps, Shipwreck Lodge offers an all-inclusive experience of game drives and other adventures in a pristine wilderness that defies description. The area contains vulnerable habitat for species of the highest conservation importance, including black rhino, elephant, black-faced impala and Hartmann’s mountain zebra. Nestled one kilometre from the crashing waves of the Atlantic Ocean, the camp features chic rooms in shades of blue, burgundy, black and white, and a lounge and dining room with uninterrupted coastal views. The eco-conscious lodge is built using timber nails, and the entire site can be dismantled and moved at any given time, leaving no trace on the landscape but footprints. shipwrecklodge.com.na
THE NEW-LOOK RAFFLES SINGAPORE is slowly being revealed with the recent soft opening of the hotel’s celebrated Long Bar and the announcement of all-new suites and gourmet dining experiences. The legendary grand hotel, which opened in 1887 and was declared a National Monument 100 years later, is undergoing a very careful and sensitive restoration in three stages, culminating in its official reopening in the middle of next year. The hotel's luxe lodgings will feature new Residence, Promenade and Studio suites – increasing the hotel’s suite count from 103 to 115 – and stylish new dining venues such as the Bar & Billiard Room (BBR) by Alain Ducasse, La Dame de Pic by three-Michelin-star chef Anne-Sophie Pic and the contemporary Chinese restaurant, yi, by Singaporean master chef Jereme Leung. The beloved Tiffin Room, Long Bar, Writers Bar, Raffles Courtyard and Afternoon Tea in The Lobby will return refreshed, while still paying tribute to the hotel’s 131-year history and heritage. And yes, you’ll still be able to drop cracked monkey nut shells on the floor of the Long Bar in true Somerset Maugham style. rafflessingapore.com
AT THE FRESHLY REIMAGINED QUEEN KAPI‘OLANI HOTEL. CHOOSE FROM 315 NEWLY TRANSFORMED GUEST ROOMS, INCLUDING 36 SUITES, WITH SPECTACULAR, UNOBSTRUCTED VIEWS OF KAPI‘OLANI PARK, DIAMOND HEAD, WAIKĪKĪ BEACH, AND INFINITY VIEWS OF THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
QueenKapiolani.com
150 KAPAHULU AVENUE, HONOLULU HI 96815
ALBION JOURNEYS PUTS THE GREAT INTO BRITAIN FOR HERITAGE-LOVING AUSTRALIAN TRAVELLERS, WRITES ALEXANDER DALE
YOU’VE SEEN THE CROWN, READ PRIDE AND PREJUDICE, savoured all six series of Downton Abbey, and sat dutifully through every royal wedding. And how many times have you asked yourself: where is that gorgeous country home, castle, garden and landscape?
No one does period drama, literature, royal pageantry and ancient history quite like the British, and now a UK-based tour company is offering Australian travellers the chance to discover the finest heritage experiences in the kingdom.
New to the Australian market, Albion Journeys creates fascinating escorted tours and carefully crafted itineraries that unlock Britain’s remarkable history with behind-thescenes tours, expert guides, guest lecturers and personal insights from the owners of the properties themselves.
Many Albion journeys are themed – Queen Victoria, London’s Hidden Houses, Jane Austen, Glorious Gardens, Literary Classics, among others – each delivering an in-depth and bespoke tour experience at a relaxed pace.
Most itineraries are designed around eight to 10 days, staying in only two luxury city or country hotels, and include breakfast daily, selected lunches and dinners, all transportation, the services of a tour director throughout, and special features such as private guided tours.
“Many Australians are in Europe for four weeks on a combination of a cruise, a villa or visiting family and friends, so this is the perfect tour to slot into their itinerary,” says
Diane Patrick, managing director of Sydney-based Wiltrans International, which represents Albion in Australia.
“For travellers who have been to the UK before, this is a great option that’s different, further afield and offering a specific focus,” she adds. “You don’t change hotels every night and you’re not travelling great distances each day, which is a plus for people wanting a more leisurely pace.”
Regional highlights for 2019 include Edinburgh, Northumberland and the Scottish Borders; Liverpool, Cheshire and Northern Ireland; the gardens of North Wales; Brontë country in Yorkshire; Cambridgeshire and the origins of the Mayflower (celebrating its 400th anniversary in 2020); Stratford-on-Avon, Oxford and London in the footsteps of William Shakespeare; and a tour of England to the aristocratic mansions of Highclere Castle (Downton Abbey) , Chatsworth House and Castle Howard (Brideshead Revisited).
Albion Journeys is offering 13 unique heritage tours in Great Britain next year showcasing the finest history, architecture, art, literature, gardens and more. Prices start from $6584 per person, twin-share, and some departures waive the single supplement. For more information and bookings, call Wiltrans International on 1800 251 174 or visit wiltrans.com.au and albionjourneys.com
For the of your life...
The Grand Train Tour of Switzerland combines the most scenic panorama routes of Switzerland into a unique travel experience. Explore the diversity and the highlights of the Alpine nation with one single ticket: the Swiss Travel Pass MySwitzerland.com/rail
THE POINTS WHISPERER STEVE HUI SHARES HIS EXPERT ADVICE ON HOW TO SECURE AN UPGRADE TO THE POINTY END OF THE PLANE
MOST TRAVELLERS WOULD AGREE THE BEST START TO ANY trip is to score an upgrade, unless you are already flying first class. An upgrade may be offered in advance by SMS or a surprise at check-in, in the lounge or even at the boarding gate.
Unfortunately, as air passenger numbers increase, the chances of winning the upgrade lottery are diminishing. Rather than think of upgrades as a luck-of-the-draw affair, the best way to fly at the pointy end of the plane is to understand how the system works.
Upgrades are somewhat a function of supply and demand. Invariably, you are not the only passenger seeking to be upgraded among your 200plus fellow economy flyers. And in reality, business class seats are already very limited, and upgrades represent those seats unlikely to be sold.
For many airlines, the process of allocating upgrades is now decided by a complex computer algorithm, rather than how nicely dressed or persuasive you are at the check-in counter. >>
The algorithm takes into account your loyalty status, the cabin (business, premium economy or economy) and fare type you booked (flexible, corporate or discount), the number of passengers travelling together and the timing of your upgrade request.
There are essentially four ways to secure an upgrade. The first and most common is to request an upgrade using your points. Typically an airline will require you to have purchased an upgradable fare and made your upgrade request online or by phone. Within 24 to 48 hours of flight departure, you will be notified via email or SMS if successful.
Alternatively, you may be invited by an airline to ‘bid’ for an upgrade; an opportunity to put in a cash, points or cash-and-points bid. In this auction-style scenario, you are bidding against other interested bidders and a minimum value deemed acceptable by the airline.
Often, you will not know how many seats are available for bidding. Before the flight, the airline will notify you if you are successful, and the payment and points will be deducted from your account.
The third option is to make a request at the lounge or gate. Here, you are hoping for a lucky strike due to last-minute cancellations or perhaps a late connecting flight has freed up some business or first class seats.
Lastly, there is the operational upgrade, which occurs at the airport. Typically this is where the airline has oversold seats and more than the expected number of passengers show up (airlines expect a number of
no-shows). The airline may provide a free-of-charge upgrade to move some lucky passengers to accommodate everyone on board.
Is a points upgrade still the best value?
Points upgrades used to be good value, but the number of points required has risen over time, and it’s now worth considering which options suit you best.
Example 1: A long-haul flight from Sydney to London may require 120,000 points to upgrade from a discount economy fare to business class one-way. For only 8,000 more points (128,000 points plus taxes), you can secure a one-way business class seat in advance.
Example 2: Flying Virgin Australia, Sydney to Los Angeles. Virgin international long-haul upgrades are only available to Velocity Gold and Platinum members.
Passengers booked on a lower-priced Getaway fare cannot request an upgrade, but with a higher-priced economy Freedom fare only 45,000 Velocity points are required for an upgrade if successful. Alternatively, 95,500 Velocity points plus taxes can score a one-way business class seat.
The only downside with seeking to book an outright points confirmed business class ticket is the potential difficulty in finding the right seats for your trip. Points seats are limited and change constantly. On balance, I would prefer to try in advance to lock in a confirmed business class seat, so I can forward plan for the comfort of my trip, rather than play the upgrade lottery and risk flying economy.
For more information on Steve Hui, visit iflyflat.com.au
Venture to Australia’s Top End and explore the untamed wilderness and wetlands of Kakadu – an ancient landscape of billabongs, gorges and hidden canyons teeming with spectacular wildlife. In a small group of no more than 20 travellers, discover Northern Territory’s striking landscapes, view beautiful rock art dating back thousands of years and hear stories of the Dreamtime, as your dedicated Journey Director shares their unparalleled wealth of expertise – creating a journey that is truly unforgettable.
Vietnam’s reputation as a champion of health and wellness continues with the opening of Anantara Quy Nhon, an alluring luxury retreat dedicated to the mind, body and spirit. Perched on a hillside overlooking a secluded bay in Quy Nhon – a littleknown but emerging destination in south central Vietnam – the new resort offers 26 one- and two-bedroom villas, each with a private pool and butler. The signature Anantara Spa features a
Masters of Wellness visiting practitioner program and unique Balance Wellness concept, and restaurants include Sea.Fire. Salt., with Anantara’s salt and wine “gurus” preparing innovative menus of local seafood and regional flavours. Daily flights operate from Ho Chi Minh and Hanoi to Phu Cat Airport, and the resort is a 50-minute drive from the airport. For full details and bookings, visit anantara.com
The reimagined Queen Kapi‘olani Hotel on Hawaii’s iconic Waikiki Beach has released a new line-up of lifestyle programming to celebrate its recent relaunch. Hosted by local taste makers, the specially curated events and activities include fitness and wellness classes, Hawaiian arts and crafts workshops, gourmet food and beverage experiences, as well
With a new year just around the corner, experts are gazing deep into their crystal balls to predict which global destinations will be 2019’s star attractions. Leading luxury travel company Abercrombie & Kent has released its latest annual Hot List, a go-to inventory for discerning holidaymakers who want to take the road less travelled, visit remote wilderness havens and immerse themselves in new cultures. A&K’s picks include Armenia, Egypt, The Kimberley by sea, Japan, Rwanda, Israel, Uruguay, Ireland, Estonia and Amritsar, all of which can be discovered next year on an authentic, meticulously planned and carefully curated A&K journey. abercrombiekent.com.au
Check out our own Destination
Next Cover Story starting page 46
as happy hours, live music and more, all available for booking on the hotel website, with discounts for in-house guests. The modern retro-chic hotel, overlooking Diamond Head, the beach and the ocean, has also announced special introductory offer for its newly renovated guest rooms and suites, starting from US$150 (about A$208) per night. queenkapiolani.com
Treat yourself to a luxury escape this summer at the new Ruby Collection on Queensland’s sun-splashed Gold Coast. With 230 one-, two- and three-bedroom apartments, as well as 13 spacious ground-floor villas, this chic luxury tower complex offers five-star facilities and cutting-edge features. From arrival
and check-in to booking regional tours and making dinner reservations, Ruby Ambassadors will be on hand around the clock to offer a fully personalised service, making your Ruby experience one to remember. therubycollection.com.au
New Zealand’s long-standing reputation as a global leader in luxury lodges is soaring with the recent opening of The Lindis, a masterstroke of modern architecture and design in a wild and untamed environment. Nestled in North Otago’s Ahuriri Valley on the South Island, this stylish retreat looks out to a dramatic landscape of snow-capped mountains, wetlands, tussock grasslands and beech forests. The central building comprises five eclectic suites, each named after a neighbouring farm, with top-shelf finishes and sculptural details. Three additional suites will open next year, as well as individual pods specially designed for star-gazing. Rates start from NZ$2500 (about A$2300) per night, including breakfast, afternoon tea and multicourse dinner. thelindis.com
Qantas has unveiled a fresh new look to its domestic lounges at Melbourne Airport. Designed by renowned firm Woods Bagot, the Qantas Club has a palette inspired by Victoria’s Great Ocean Road, featuring natural timbers, cool greys and pops of turquoise. With room for 530 customers, gourmet food stations, all-day barista coffee, WiFi and printing facilities, the lounge is open to Qantas Club members and Gold Qantas Frequent Flyers and above. The new-look Business Lounge offers similar facilities plus shower suites and Spice Bar, serving Asian soups, noodles, street food and seasonal menus by master chef Neil Perry. qantas.com
The Dalai Lama once said: “Sleep is the best meditation.” Amatara Wellness Resort on the Thai island of Phuket, clearly agrees, launching a series of Sleep Optimisation Retreats that take a holistic approach to a pressing issue in today’s hectic world. The yin to modern living’s yang, Amatara’s sleep retreats of seven, 10 and 14 nights combine a medical understanding of sleep patterns through an in-house polysomnography (overnight sleep test) with therapies that soothe and calm the
mind. The retreats encourage a pure, healthy cuisine without caffeine, chocolate or other foods that overstimulate the nervous system, and retreat guests are asked to commit to zero screen time after sunset and not to switch on any devices until after breakfast. Retreat rates start from $5842 for seven nights in a bay view suite, including transfers, full-board, wellness consultations, blood pressure checks and a physical analysis. Sleep, after all, is a serious business. amataraphuket.com
Luxury Exclusives showcases the world’s foremost luxury destinations, accommodations and luxury travel essentials with an array of exclusive services and value-add inclusions.
For some, that’s a private villa, exclusive beachfront resort, exotic island hideaway or gourmet food and wine experience. For others, it’s about exploring a new country and culture or simply relaxing and reconnecting with family and friends.
From off-the-beaten-track wilderness adventures to sophisticated city hotels, we know you want to be kept up to date with all the latest and most luxurious ways to travel.
Dining experience at East Restaurant at LUX* South Ari Atoll Resort, Dhidhoofinolhu, Maldives
LUXURY TRAVEL MAGAZINE HAS PARTNERED WITH NEW ZEALAND’S ICONIC HUKA LODGE TO BRING YOU AN EXCLUSIVE LUXURY GETAWAY
Huka Lodge was founded in the 1920s and has been the best-kept secret of the A-list ever since. This jewel in the crown of New Zealand’s luxury lodges is famed for its extraordinary hospitality experience, with a long list of top international awards bearing testament to this. Huka Lodge now partners with Luxury Travel Magazine to offer readers an exclusive getaway package at this stunning retreat.
This elegant and sophisticated haven nestles in 17 acres of stunning natural beauty within beautifully tended gardens. Huka Lodge is located in the central North Island, on the banks of the Waikato River, upstream from the mighty Huka Falls in Taupo. It offers a truly exclusive experience, where you can relax and unwind, at a level of peace and privacy rarely found in the world today.
Superb cuisine has defined the renowned hospitality of Huka Lodge for many years and Executive Chef Paul Froggatt continues to enhance this reputation with his exquisite menus on a daily basis. Personal service that is both solicitous and attentive is also a hallmark of this exceptional property.
Huka Lodge also offers a variety of outdoor experiences. Within the grounds, guests will find all-weather tennis courts, swimming and spa pools, petanque and croquet courts. Beyond the gates, many great adventures await in the spectacular lakes, mountains and forests that surround the Lodge. Enjoy golf, whitewater rafting, kayaking, boat tours, hiking, biking, horseback riding, and much more. The Lodge also hosts a range of annual events and boasts an international reputation for trout and fly-fishing
Your getaway accommodation will be in one of these fabulous cottages, where you will enjoy the best of both worlds –total privacy as well as everything the Lodge has to offer, just a five-minute walk away.
The Owner’s Cottage has four spacious and exquisitely styled suites, each featuring an ensuite bathroom and walk-through dressing room. It enjoys a wonderful ambience and interior design with magnificent elevated river views, a central lounge, dining area, kitchen, den, infinity pool and spa pool to ensure a high level of comfort and relaxation during your own private House Party.
The Alan Pye Cottage has two beautifully appointed suites, with ensuite bathrooms and separate dressing rooms. The magnificent, design-led riverside retreat boasts a swimming pool and secluded spa pool, and a fabulous outdoor pavilion with fireplace. This complemented by a spacious lounge and dining room, kitchen and study are all designed for you to enjoy a house party like no other. For those seeking a truly special time together, with friends or family, a getaway for a private house party at the exclusive Huka Lodge will create a lifetime of happy memories. So, gather together your family and friends, and take advantage of this great offer by securing your reservation now.
Spend four nights at Huka Lodge in the Owner’s Cottage or the Alan Pye Cottage and live in the true lap of luxury.
• A soothing luxurious facial for each person;
• Pre-dinner drinks with canapés, superb five-course dinners and full country breakfasts;
• Private dining with a choice of over 20 romantic indoor and outdoor venues (subject to availability);
• A complimentary two-course lunch;
• A delicious almond Visitandine cake, freshly baked by Huka Lodge’s chefs;
• A 2.5-hour private launch cruise, giving guests the opportunity to do some trout-fishing on the waters of beautiful Lake Taupo;
• A dip in the therapeutic waters of the Wairakei Terraces Thermal Pools;
THE
Use
(ALL IN NZD) AND BOOKING INFORMATION: (APC = Alan Pye Cottage OC = Owner’s Cottage)
01-30
APC/OC (2 SUITES) $2,127 per person / per night
Based on 4 guests
APC/OC (2 SUITES) $1,604 per person / per night
Based on 4 guests
OC (3 SUITES)
$1,899 per person / per night
Based on 6 guests
OC (3 SUITES) $1,446 per person / per night
Based on 6 guests
Based on 8 guests
OC (4 SUITES) $1,354 per person / per night
Based on 8 guests
In all cases, these prices quoted are on a per person, per night basis, in NZ dollars and include GST (Goods and Services Tax) of 15%.
While every effort will be made to provide this package in the form in which it is currently published, there could be last-minute changes due to circumstances beyond our control. This Luxury Travel Magazine and Huka Lodge House Parties getaway offer cannot be used in conjunction with any other offers, and is subject to availability.
To experience this unforgettable sojourn at Huka Lodge, either as a romantic escape with your partner or a fun-filled group getaway
Call 1800 130 181 , Visit luxuryexclusives.com.au or Email luxurytravel@conciergetraveller.com
WITH GLOBAL TOURISM REACHING SATURATION POINT, NEW AND LARGELY UNDISCOVERED DESTINATIONS ARE BECOMING HARDER TO FIND. HERE ARE 20 EXCITING, SURPRISING AND RAPIDLY TRENDING PLACES – FAR FROM THE MADDING TOURIST CROWDS – OFFERING ONCEIN-A-LIFETIME EXPERIENCES.
Widely regarded as the new Croatia, Montenegro is trending as the must-see destination of 2019. With its historic cities, towns and monuments, sublime beaches, soaring mountain peaks, and Mediterranean climate, this beautiful country is a jewel of the Adriatic Sea. Less than 300 kilometres from top to toe, Montenegro proves that big things come in small packages. Abundant cultural history can be found in the mosaic floors of Roman villas, colourful Orthodox monasteries, ornate Catholic churches, the slender minarets of mosques and resilient fortresses built by the numerous powers that have fought over these lands. UNESCO-listed Kotor and the splendid Medieval city of Budva are must-sees, but upwardly
mobile hotspots such as Porto Montenegro and Lustica Bay are turning up the contemporary style and glamour volume with spectacular new marinas and luxury resorts, hotels and residential developments. See it before the tourist hordes arrive. montenegro.travel
Podgorica Lustica Bay
Nearly 25 years on from the genocide that shocked the world, Rwanda is the new ‘It’ destination of sub-Saharan Africa. While its mountain gorillas have long been its biggest tourism drawcard, this unassuming, land-locked country has a new network of luxury eco-lodges luring adventure-seeking and wildlife-loving travellers to its verdant rolling hills. Wildly beautiful with lush, mountainous terrain, cloud-shrouded forests and incredible biodiversity, the ‘Land of a Thousand Hills’ offers nature trails to make avid hikers go weak at the knees. The Congo-Nile trail is perhaps its most famous, while Nyungwe Forest – one of the oldest and last-remaining high-altitude tropical rainforests in Africa – is home to a 200-metre-
long canopy walk. Lake Kivu is one of the world’s 20 largest lakes, a spectacular mountain-flanked spot to kayak, boat, swim and fish. Widely recognised as a safe haven, Rwanda has mandatory education, universal health care, boasts the highest percentage of women in parliament in the world, has been plastic bag-free since 2008 and is considered Africa’s cleanest country. Who says it’s all about the gorillas? visitrwanda.com
Bordered by South Africa, Botswana, Zambia and Angola, Namibia is a spectacular and game-rich safari destination distinguished by the Namib Desert along its Atlantic Ocean coast and Etosha National Park’s vast salt pan. The country is home to diverse, rare and endangered wildlife – including elephant, black rhino, cheetah and wild dog, among others – many of which have naturally adapted to the harsh and inhospitable desert environment. Leading safari specialist Natural Selection operates four luxury camps in Hoanib
River, Etosha Heights Private Reserve and Skeleton Coast National Park, with a fifth camp soon to open in Nkasa Rupara National Park – all delivering extraordinary Out of Africa experiences in unique and untouched settings. namibiatourism.com.na
Natural Selection, naturalselection.travel
A new dawn is rising over Australia’s west coast. With Qantas launching non-stop flights to London earlier this year, Perth is now ideally positioned as a fresh and dynamic stopover or destination in its own right. “Perth has come of age,” says Tracey Cinavas-Prosser, executive director of the Perth Convention Bureau, referencing the city’s vibrant culture, idyllic beaches, world-class food and wine, natural history and marine adventures. “Perth is safe, welcoming and visually stunning,” she adds. “It has an excellent infrastructure, more average hours of sunshine, and more restaurants per capita than any other city
in Australia.” A dozen major luxury hotels have recently opened or are soon to launch, complementing the burgeoning Elizabeth Quay waterfront complex, offering five-star accommodations, gourmet dining, entertainment and exclusive experiences across the city. experienceperth.com, westernaustralia.com
Crown Towers Perth, crownhotels.com.au
The concept of pristine wilderness is rapidly disappearing due to mass tourism, global warming, pollution and over-population, but thankfully there is a handful of natural wonders still in existence. One such Garden of Eden is the Azores, an archipelago of nine remote and volcanic islands perched in the mid-Atlantic, an autonomous region of Portugal located about 1,650 kilometres west of Lisbon. An international beacon of sustainability – built environments cover only five per cent of the land – these beautiful islands comprise vast underwater mountains, calderas, hot springs, caverns and grottoes, lakes ringed by laurel and cedar forests, and seemingly endless carpets of green pastures. A haven for nature lovers and adventure sports enthusiasts – think whalewatching, watersports, geotourism, hiking and birding – the Azores is nature at its best with a touch of luxury. New air services from the US and Europe mean easier access but also more tourists; the time to go is now. visitazores.com
Terra Nostra Garden Hotel, São Miguel Island, bensaude.pt
Old meets new in Malmö, Sweden’s third largest and most multicultural and progressive city. Gamla Staden (Old Town) is a picture-perfect showcase of tradition and history with its sturdy castle, elegant squares and cobblestone streets dating from Medieval times, while Vastra Hamnen’s chic and vibrant redeveloped waterfront resonates with Malmö’s cosmopolitan vibe. The city is bang-on-trend with colourful ethnic markets, a thriving coffee culture and stylish restaurants, cafés and bars embracing the new Nordic cuisine ethos with a thoroughly relaxed, laidback ambience. The coastal city is located at the eastern end of the striking Oresund Bridge, linking Malmö and Danish capital Copenhagen, while the Turning Torso is a neo-futurist residential skyscraper and the tallest building in Scandinavia. malmo.com
Hotel Duxiana, malmo.hotelduxiana.com
A safe haven in a region of turmoil and conflict, Jordan offers one of the world’s greatest travel experiences. With its warm, welcoming, my-house-is-your-house approach to hospitality and an array of breathtaking natural and man-made attractions, this underappreciated destination should be on every traveller’s hit list. After exploring the fascinating capital Amman, head out to the Roman ruins of Jerash, float in the hyper-saline and mineral-rich waters of the Dead Sea, view the ancient rose-red city of Petra, and experience the nomadic Bedouin way of life in rugged Wadi Rum. End your holiday with a few days relaxing in Aqaba, Jordan’s pretty port city on the Red Sea’s Gulf of Aqaba. We can’t speak highly enough of this wonderful country.
Full of Stars, Wadi Rum, wadirumnight.com
Amman Wadi Rum Petra AqabaA world away from the bustling streets and neon lights of Tokyo, Nara is Japan’s historic and spiritual heart, the nation’s first capital established in 710, and the place where Buddhism first flourished in the country. Close to Kyoto and Osaka, and easily accessible by train, the city is a living history book, replete with UNESCO World Heritage sites and beautiful temples and shrines. Ancient Nara was a major trade centre on the legendary Silk Road and remains a vast repository of precious artifacts originating from Eurasia. Modern-day Nara is still a centre for innovation,
culture and the arts, and the birthplace of sake, sumo wrestling and other unique Japanese traditions. Quieter, less touristy and rural in comparison to its neighbours – Nara Deer Park is a joy to wander at any time of year – Nara offers a relaxed holiday experience and a glimpse of the ‘real’ Japan. visitnara.jp
Noborioji Hotel Nara, slh.com
America has more iconic destinations than you could poke a hotdog at, but there are still off-the-beaten-track sanctuaries that surprise and delight. New Mexico’s capital Sante Fe is steeped in Spanish colonial and American west history, renowned for its Pueblo-style architecture, and widely regarded as a hotbed of the creative arts. Set in the Sangre de Cristo foothills, the city’s downtown is a designated historic district with charming Spanish churches, twisting streets, and chic boutiques and galleries. Surrounded by more than 600,000 hectares of national forest, Santa Fe prides itself on its approach to healthy living and organic food, but with an urban sensibility. It's the third-largest art market in the United States, after Los Angeles and New York, and the annual Sante Fe Opera season between June and August is considered one of the finest in the country. santafe.org
The Inn of the Five Graces, fivegraces.com
Rising from the Mediterranean Sea like an indomitable fortress, the spectacular island of Corsica is like no other part of France. Located north of Sardinia, off the western coast of Italy, this glorious French island territory is only 215 kilometres long and 81 kilometres wide, but offers a breathtaking array of natural and cultural attractions from rugged mountainous terrain to sun-drenched bays, beaches and seaside villages, bucolic valleys, forests and dramatic hilltop hideaways. Calvi, on the island’s northwest coast, is a charming city of cobblestone streets, restaurants, shops and art galleries, and take your pick of
almost 200 white-sand beaches and secluded coves dotted around the island. A world away from the glittering French Riviera, Corsica has its own unique customs, language and character – along with excellent food and wine – delivering an intimate holiday experience in a monumental setting. visit-corsica.com and atout-france.fr
Villas by The Thinking Traveller, thethinkingtraveller.com
Next year is set to be an "annus mirabilis" for Sicily’s capital Palermo. Fresh from its star role as 2018 Italian Capital of Culture and hosting Manifesta, the European Biennial of Contemporary Art this year, this intriguing city is emerging as a major tourist and cultural attraction in its own right, not just as a gateway to the island’s renowned coastal and inland villas. Once the stronghold of Italy’s Mafia, this still gritty and multi-ethnic city is quickly morphing into a romantic destination thanks to its beautiful Mediterranean setting, historic and luxury hotels, and quaint restaurants, cafés and bars. The impressive Teatro Massimo is one of the biggest and most important theatres in Europe, and Via Chiavettieri comes to life each evening when bar owners put out their tables and chairs on the pavement and serve wine and olives, and by 11pm the street is packed. visitsicily.info
Grand Hotel Villa Igiea, villa-igiea.com
This glorious archipelago has long flown under the radar of Australian travellers to Europe, yet is one of its undisputed gems. Nestled between Sicily and the North African coast, Malta is renowned for its historic sites, the legacy of a succession of rulers including the Romans, Moors, Knights of Saint John, French and British. The largest island, also called Malta, is a cultural powerhouse of antiquities, fortresses, churches and temples, such as the Hal Saflieni Hypogeum, a subterranean complex of halls and burial chambers dating to circa 4000 BC. The capital, Valletta, is a maze
of narrow streets, colourful facades, gilded churches, boutiques and charming cafes. Basking in more than 300 days of annual sunshine, the southern part of the island has picturesque fishing villages and secluded coves, while the north coast boasts Malta’s best sand beaches, such as Golden Bay. visitmalta.com
The Xara Palace, xarapalace.com.mt
Taipei might not be as well-known to Australian travellers as its Asian counterparts Singapore, Bangkok and Hong Kong, but the commercial, economic and political capital of Taiwan is no less vibrant and alluring. Home to 12 districts and seven million people, Taipei is a thriving and cosmopolitan city that has, despite its contemporary high-rise facade, managed to preserve much of its natural, cultural and historic heritage. Must-see attractions include 228 Peace Park, Longshan Temple, Shilin Night Market, Maokong Gondola, and the National Palace Museum, a showcase of 600,000-plus artifacts transported
for safekeeping from mainland China during the Chinese Civil War. Explore the head-turning nightlife of Ximending, a historic district that’s now the hip epicentre of Taipei’s youth subcultures, where wacky anime- and manga-obsessed locals, commonly referred to as otaku, strut their stuff. eng.taiwan.net.tw
Mandarin Oriental Taipei, mandarinoriental.com
If one city in South America embodies the essence of Destination Next, surely it’s Santiago, Chile’s vibrant capital and largest metropolis. Nestled in a wide, sprawling valley and surrounded by the snow-covered peaks of the Andes, Santiago is on a mission to be the continent’s next big thing. Luxury hotels, big and small, are sprouting from the ground like daffodils in spring, along with sensitive restorations of historic buildings and districts, creating an eye-catching fusion of old and new. Stroll Plaza de Armas, Santiago’s colonial heart, with its 18th-century cathedral; climb San Cristobal Hill for breathtaking views; visit poet Pablo Neruda’s museum-home; drink pisco and dine in lively Barrio Lastarria; explore the Museum of Memory and Human Rights for a harrowing account of dictator General Pinochet’s 17-year reign of fear; and wander the city’s many bohemian barrios such as Bellavista, Italia, Brasil and Yungay. santiagotourist.com
The Singular, thesingular.com
Long celebrated for its aquamarine shallows and deeper waters the colour of lapis lazuli, the aptly named Turquoise Coast is emerging as the ‘Turkish Riviera’ – a stretch of sublime coastline in the country’s southwest that is on every savvy, sophisticated and well-heeled traveller’s hot list. New luxury hotels and resorts are appearing alongside the region’s traditional homes, stone walls and olive groves basking in the sunshine. The finest beaches include Oludeniz, Patara and Iztuzu, and archaeological ruins of Greek, Roman and Byzantine origin are never far away. The biggest city on the coast, Antalya, has long beaches lined with upscale resorts and an often tourist-free historic centre, Kaleici, filled with former mansions (many now boutique hotels), restaurants and cafés. goturkeytourism.com
Much like its polar opposite Antarctica, the Arctic is one of the world’s last great wilderness refuges, but all that’s changing on two counts. Rapid global warming is turning this extreme yet fragile and vulnerable environment into an ever-shifting landscape with potentially devastating effect to its wildlife. And the first trickle of tourism is reaching its shores with the arrival of small but environmentally sensitive luxury cruise ships charting a course through the frigid waters via Canada, Alaska, Norway, Greenland and Russia. This mysterious yet magnetic world of snow and ice, polar bears and walruses is slowly revealing its secrets. “An Arctic cruise is a wonderful way to explore the region with minimal impact to the fragile environment,” says Amanda McClelland, CEO of Cruiseco, the largest distributor of cruise products in the southern hemisphere. A new frontier indeed.
Cruiseco, cruising.com.au
Royal London and Britain’s chocolate-box country villages may hog the international tourist limelight, but a host of regional cities offer an equally fascinating glimpse into the United Kingdom’s rich cultural heritage. One such urban warrior is Liverpool in northwest England, a gritty but friendly and welcoming city, second only to London for world-class museums and galleries. A UNESCO World Heritage site and birthplace of The Beatles, Liverpool is awash with maritime history best explored along Albert Dock, home to the Merseyside Maritime Museum, Tate Liverpool and excellent Museum of Liverpool at Pier Head. Immerse yourself in The Beatles’ story, take a ferry across the Mersey, discover the city’s Titanic history, and visit Liverpool Football Club. You won’t understand a word of what the locals are saying, with their thick ‘scouse’ accent, but the food and music are terrific, so what’s not to love? visitliverpool.com
Titanic Hotel, titanichotelliverpool.com
We can barely bring ourselves to write about Milos, a ravishing under-the-radar Greek Island that really should come with a confidentiality agreement. A 40-minute flight from Athens, or a two-hour ferry ride from Santorini, this largely unknown sliver of paradise is the untouched Greece of yesteryear. Milos and its spectacular beaches, aquamarine waters, captivating white-washed towns, historic sites and superb seafood have managed to evade the mass tourism fate of other more popular Cycladic islands, retaining its traditional and unspoiled character. Its iconic Venus de Milo may be in the Louvre in Paris, but
Milos is still home to some of the finest beaches and dramatic coastal landscapes in Greece, thanks to its volcanic nature and surreal rock formations. A handful of luxe boutique resorts rub shoulders with chic private villas for rental, offering in-the-know travellers a classic Greek island holiday. Just don’t tell another soul. milos.gr
Where to stay
Beautiful Spanish colonial churches, outstanding museums, flamboyant festivals, a unique arts and crafts scene, and pre-Columbian ruins: Mexico’s City-State of Oaxaca delivers all this – and more – in a riot of spectacle and colour. One of the country’s architectural gems (pronounced wah-hah-kah), and a resolute defender and supporter of indigenous culture, Oaxaca offers a slice of authentic Mexican life, along with lip-smacking regional food and turbo-charged margaritas. With the city located in central southern Mexico and State extending to the Pacific Coast, Oaxaca offers an alluring urban and beach adventure along with caves, waterfalls and mountains. Some of the city’s more exuberant festivals, such as Día De Los Muertos (Day of the Dead) at the start of November, are worth planning your trip around. Check out the local markets and weirdly beautiful crafts, many designed around half-animal, half-human figures. visitmexico.com
Casa Oaxaca, casaoaxaca.com.mx
While Bali and Lombok have long been on the beaten tourist trail, their less widely known neighbours in the Lesser Sunda Islands of Indonesia are starting to enjoy their own time in the international spotlight. An archipelago of volcanic islands in the Java Sea, the Lesser Sunda group comprises Bali, Lombok, Sumbawa, Flores, Sumba, Timor, Alor, Barat Daya and Tanimbar Islands, but it’s Komodo that’s appearing on luxury travel insider hot lists in Australia and around the world. A UNESCO World Heritage site and home to the prehistoric three-metre-long
Komodo dragon monitor lizard, Komodo is a national park on a Darwinian scale, filled with volcanic hills, forests and savannah. Its surrounding waters and coral reefs are renowned for diving, and new luxury resort hotels are springing up in neighbouring Flores to cater to well-heeled travellers. florestourism.com
The new AYANA Komodo Resort, ayana.com
Experience a complete wellness journey at Kamalaya Wellness Sanctuary and Holistic Spa, Koh Samui, and restore your health and vitality with one of our inclusive programs
MAGGY OEHLBECK BOARDS
CRYSTAL SERENITY ON A VOYAGE FROM ROME TO MARSEILLE AHEAD OF THE SHIP’S NEXT VISIT TO AUSTRALIA IN FEBRUARY
THE VOICE BEHIND A LARGE APEROL SPRITZ SIGHS:
“I could stay here forever.” Crystal Serenity is anchored off Portoferraio, Elba Island, and we are sprawled on vibrant orange day beds on the pool deck, flushed from our climb up to Napoleon’s Villa dei Mulini where he spent 300 days during his first exile.
The late afternoon sun reflects in our cocktails, bathing the table in a warm amber glow. This is the first day of a week-long ‘Riviera Reverie’ on board one of the world’s finest cruise ships and we are positively giddy from Elba’s sensory delights. Our voluntary exile, while sadly not 300 days, is nevertheless a languid and leisurely sojourn along the glorious Italian and French rivieras from Rome to Marseille.
I have barely set foot inside my Penthouse Suite after boarding when a tap on the door reveals a handsome young man who introduces himself as JiJo. “I am your butler,” he says, with a discreet Downton Abbey nod.
A tour of my new home-at-sea ensues, with JiJo pointing out the well-stocked minibar, two TVs (one in my elegant sitting room, the other in the bedroom), my spa-like bathroom with Etro amenities, one-touch lighting system, complimentary unlimited WiFi, and the all-important butler call button for round-the-clock service.
I’ve already noted the fresh orchid, groaning fruit bowl and bottle of Champagne on ice that JiJo informs me comes with every Penthouse Suite, but suddenly spy my just-unpacked clothes hanging rather haphazardly in the walk-in wardrobe. No matter. JiJo comes to the rescue, politely enquiring if I have any pressing – complimentary, of course. And with a final flourish – “I’ll be back with canapés at 5pm,” he says –my new best friend is gone.
It’s my first taste of the Crystal Experience, the multiaward-winning cruise line’s core principle to offer its guests uncompromising luxury, personal service and attention to detail that runs through the entire fleet. >>
For 27 years, the ever-expanding Crystal Cruises – which now includes Crystal River Cruises, Crystal Yacht Expedition Cruises, Crystal AirCruises and Crystal Luxury Air – has redefined the luxury ‘experience’ across its global journeys, an exacting standard of excellence that flows seamlessly into all new vessels and major refurbishments.
Crystal Serenity (like her sister Crystal Symphony) has recently undergone an extensive redesign, adding 36 new Penthouses and two Penthouse Suites, and reconfiguring its selection of restaurants with a sleek new look and colour palette, and exceptional dining (more on the redesign later).
Not surprisingly, she has morphed from chrysalis to glittering social butterfly and is now ready to spread her wings. Both ocean-going siblings are supremely elegant, meticulously appointed and offer the hospitality, service and comfort of a five-star hotel favoured by a cultured clientele, with 655 highly trained crew serving a full complement of 980 passengers.
Even better, they have no fixed address. Instead, they roam the oceans pursuing carefully researched and highly curated itineraries to dream destinations and deliver memorable shore experiences from each port of call.
The necklace of iconic coastal gems which stud our Italian and French rivieras cruise are no doubt familiar to many, but there’s nothing quite like experiencing them on board Crystal Serenity.
After our wonderful first day on Elba, we arrive in Livorno –the bustling port gateway to all things Fiorentina – enticed by a menu of Crystal Adventures Shore Excursions that reads like
a Baedeker guide from Europe’s golden age of the Grand Tour. I forgo the Renaissance riches of Florence, Siena, Pisa and San Gimignano and opt for a guided walking tour of the walled Medieval city of Lucca. Accompanied by an expert docent, I’m captivated by the city’s architectural masterpieces, musical heritage – as the birthplace of celebrated opera composer Giacomo Puccini – the easy-going nature of the locals and upscale designer boutiques.
Lunch in Tuscany’s impossibly beautiful countryside at a rustic farmhouse on an olive oil estate delights with platters of bruschetta, salumi and homemade pastas accompanied by regional wines.
(Note to self: remember to book dinner at Prego, the ship’s authentic Italian restaurant. The mushroom soup served in individual hollowed-out loaves of bread is legendary.)
The grand finale of our Lucca excursion, however, is an exclusive and privileged visit to Villa Torrigiani, a glorious Baroque folly where we’re invited to wander through its magnificent private gardens and frescoed interiors by a family member.
Cinque Terre, the five fishing villages in the northwestern corner of Liguria, is renowned for its vertiginous cliffs quilted with vineyards and olive trees which cascade to the sea.
No, we are not going to tackle all five, although participants in the full-day adventure can view them at close quarters by small boat and then return by local train. Instead we choose beautiful Manarola only, and accomplish a moderately challenging walk along a section of the coast, marvelling at the gelati-coloured houses festooned with washing and >>
Above:
the tenacity of locals tending vineyards and vegetable plots, and mending fishing nets in such difficult terrain. A highlight for me is tasting the fruit of their labours, especially Sciacchetrà, the superb local dessert wine.
At sunrise the next day, Crystal Serenity slips quietly into Monaco, that ever-glamorous haven of hedonism on the French Riviera, and a scheduled overnight visit allows Crystal guests to play the tables at its famous casino.
Among Crystal Adventures’ daytime offerings are visits to Èze, perched on a pinnacle with panoramic views over the Cote d’Azur, or Cap Ferrat and its breathtaking Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild.
Back in Monte Carlo, we enjoy coffee at Hôtel de Paris and watch the beautiful people and extraordinary superyachts assembled for the principality’s major annual boat show.
A little later, we tender back to the ship for our dress-circle seats on Crystal Serenity’s upper deck to watch the British Royal Air Force Red Arrows’ dazzling aerobatic performance. A head massage is in order after all the neck-craning – the
perfect time to visit the Zen-calm Crystal Spa & Salon.
Among the more unusual offerings are a warmed bamboo shoot massage and the Quartz Crystal Bed, where warmed crystals mould the body to assist relaxation and minerally charge the skin. There is also a Medi-Spa physician and acupuncturist available for personal consultations.
Other diversions include Crystal’s cultural enrichment programs, engaging guest speakers, computer classes, social bridge, golf and most importantly, plenty of live music and dancing, high-voltage productions and fine instrumentalists.
And finally, to Provence and a blissful day in ritzy St Tropez, ambling through its pretty laneways and lively markets, then back on board to pack and prepare for arrival in Marseille the next morning.
If I catch the second-to-last tender, I will be in time for afternoon tea and my favourite chair – an enormous wingback in the Palm Court – an elegant oasis of calm and serenity. The ship’s name says it all.
For more luxury cruising inspiration, visit cruise.luxurytravelmag.com.au
Australian travellers can experience the new-look Crystal Serenity and Crystal Symphony when both ships cruise in Australian and New Zealand waters next February and March (see next page).
Crystal Serenity is also offering 25 itineraries in Europe and Scandinavia during next year’s northern hemisphere summer. Destinations include Monaco, Venice, Athens, Rome, Barcelona, London, Reykjavik, Copenhagen, Stockholm, Amsterdam and Lisbon, with fares from US$2700 (about A$3760) per person, twinshare, for a seven-day Barcelona to Rome sailing next October.
For more information and reservations, call 1300 059 260 or visit crystalcruises.com
In preparation for her next visit to Australia in February, Crystal Serenity has emerged from dry dock this month following the most extensive redesign in the ship’s history. Accommodations, dining venues and public spaces have all been transformed, along with a host of technological advances, further enhancing Crystal Cruises’ acclaimed Crystal Experience.
Crystal Serenity now boasts 36 new Penthouses and two new Penthouse Suites in place of verandah staterooms on Penthouse Deck 10, effectively reducing the ship’s capacity from 1070 guests to 980 while the 655-strong crew remains.
New dining options include open seating, allowing guests to dine at their leisure, with whom and where they choose, thereby offering more flexibility for evening activities and entertainment. The original Crystal Dining Room is now Waterside, a more intimate and centrally located restaurant delivering international cuisine.
The Marketplace and Churrascaria are new daytime and evening restaurants replacing the former Lido Cafe, featuring an open-kitchen concept with dishes made to order. Casual buffet-style breakfast and lunch options change to Brazilian-style barbecue in the evening, served tableside by Crystal “gauchos”.
Silk Road and The Sushi Bar, the specialty dining venues by famed Master Chef Nobu Matsuhisa, are rebranded Umi Uma – reflecting the Japanese word for Crystal’s trademark seahorses. The restaurants still serve the inspired cuisine of Nobu, prepared by his personally trained chefs, and remain the only Nobu restaurants at sea.
All specialty dining reservations for Umi Uma and Prego are complimentary for Penthouse guests, while all other guests enjoy one complimentary evening of specialty dining, with additional reservations available for a modest charge.
Crystal Serenity’s Palm Court is also transformed with more intimate seating, and The Stardust Club entertainment lounge has new finishes throughout.
Guests now receive unlimited complimentary WiFi on any Crystal voyage aboard all Crystal vessels, and Crystal’s major investment in technology includes hardware and software enhancements to enable expanded internet connectivity and doubled satellite speed.
“Our ocean vessels are the heart of the Crystal brand,” says president and CEO Tom Wolber, “and we will continue to invest in their success with an eye to innovation and design aesthetic.” crystalcruises.com
THE LUXURY CRUISE SEASON IS UNDERWAY WITH SOME OF THE WORLD’S FINEST SHIPS SAILING IN LOCAL WATERS, WRITES ANDREA COLLINS
THE LUXURY CRUISING SEASON IS ONE OF THE HIGHLIGHTS of every Australian summer, and this one is shaping up to be the biggest and best on record. Between now and April, a small armada of the world’s finest ships will set sail for ports around the country, offering an array of outstanding cruise experiences for seasoned and first-time passengers.
Sydney and Melbourne will be the busiest ports with 16 major cruise lines visiting one or both cities, along with a host of regional ports.
Silversea’s newest ultra-luxurious flagship, Silver Muse, will make her inaugural sailing to Australia in December. Departing Bali on December 21, she will arrive in Darwin on December 26 and then sail along the east coast to Sydney, arriving on January 6. From Sydney, she will sail for New Zealand – making maiden visits to Akaroa, Picton, Napier, Gisborne and Auckland – before offering a number of sailings between New Zealand and Australia. Visit silversea.com
Crystal Cruises’ ocean-going flagships, Crystal Serenity and Crystal Symphony will sail here in February and March/April respectively, both >>
SYDNEY - MELBOURNE - BRISBANE - PERTH
SUMMER 2018
Regent Seven Seas Cruises has announced its World Cruise for 2021, an extraordinary 117-night voyage visiting six continents, 30 countries and 61 ports, including 56 UNESCO World Heritage sites. The multi-month global journey from Miami to Barcelona will be on board the all-suite, all-balcony Seven Seas Mariner, and will feature 11 overnight stays, offering world cruisers a fully immersive experience. The 700-guest Seven Seas Mariner is fresh from a major refurbishment this year, with chic new suite designs, elevated culinary experiences and renewed public spaces. For full details and reservations, visit rssc.com
delivering the acclaimed ‘Crystal Experience’ on land and shore.
Crystal Serenity offers a 15-day Down Under Discovery cruise as part of her 2019 World Cruise, from Auckland to Perth, departing on February 5. Crystal Symphony offers a 16-day Auckland to Sydney sailing, departing March 23, and an 18-day Sydney to Singapore voyage, departing April 8. For full details, fares and bookings, visit crystalcruises.com.
Cunard will base Queen Elizabeth in Australian waters for a record two months in February and March, with 27 different cruise itineraries on offer as she sails from Sydney and Melbourne. The line has also partnered with R.M. Williams, Akubra, Starward Whiskey and Australian Dance Theatre to give passengers a local luxury brand experience on each cruise. cunard.com
Oceania Cruises will have two luxury ships – the newly refurbished Insignia and Regatta – in local waters in 2018/19, with a host of itineraries including Los Angeles to Sydney and Sydney to Tokyo on board Insignia, and from Bali to Sydney and Auckland to Sydney on board Regatta. oceaniacruises.com
After a 14-night expedition from Bali, Ponant’s new Le Lapérouse will make her inaugural visit to Australia, first sailing the Great Barrier Reef and east coast from Cairns to Sydney Harbour, arriving on February 7. The ship will head for New Zealand and Melanesia, before embarking on a series of 10-night cruises in the Kimberley and on to Southeast Asia in September. au.ponant.com
Australia’s booming cruise industry expansion continues apace with Celebrity Cruises announcing it will base two superliners in local waters in 2020. While Celebrity Solstice will continue to voyage from her home port in Sydney, Celebrity Eclipse will be based in Melbourne following a A$700 million refurbishment, part of the line’s fleet-wide ‘Celebrity Revolution’ modernisation program. The newly minted 2,850-passenger, 120,000-tonne liner will arrive in Melbourne on December 23, 2020, and her inaugural Australian season will run until the following April. celebritycruises.com.au
Fresh from a bow-to-stern refurbishment earlier this year, Regent Seven Seas Mariner will embark on a 36-night circumnavigation of Australia from Sydney, departing on December 15. Sister ship Seven Seas Navigator will sail on a 36-night Sydney to Singapore voyage, departing on February 12 and taking in Fraser Island, the Whitsunday Islands, Cairns and Darwin, as well as an array of exotic destinations in Asia. rssc.com
Viking Orion will also visit Australia in 2019, sailing for 17 days from Sydney to Bali, via the east coast, Darwin, Komodo Island and Lombok, departing Sydney on March 10. vikingcruises.com.au
For all your luxury cruising needs, contact your closest Cruiseco member agency on 1800 550 320 or visit cruising.com.au
Hugo Gramp understood the secrets of making fine wine. It was this talent and wisdom that he passed on to his son, Colin. Since the first vintage of 1980, every bottle of St Hugo is crafted without compromise. It is a promise of excellence and pays homage to love.
CREATED TO HONOUR THE BOND BETWEEN A FATHER AND A SON
Venice to Athens (Piraeus)
9 night cruise departs 5 May 2019
Rome (Civitavecchia) to Barcelona
10 night cruise departs 18 May 2019
13 night holiday includes:
Flight to Venice, returning from Athens
2 nights at the Hotel Papadopoli Venice incl. breakfast
· 9 night cruise aboard Azamara PursuitSM incl. all main meals+ and entertainment on board
2 nights at the Hilton Athens incl. breakfast
Transfers between airport, hotel & port
Club Interior from $7,155pp*
Club Verandah from $8,455pp*
Barcelona to London (Greenwich)
14 night cruise departs 28 May 2019
14 night holiday includes:
Flight to Rome, returning from Barcelona
2 nights at the Savoy Hotel Rome incl. breakfast
· 10 night cruise aboard Azamara Journey® incl. all main meals+ and entertainment on board
2 nights at the Grand Hotel Central Barcelona incl. breakfast
Transfers between airport, hotel & port
Club Interior from $7,855pp*
Club Verandah from $9,545pp*
Greece Intensive Athens (Piraeus) to Venice
10 night cruise departs 19 June 2019
18 night holiday includes:
Flight to Barcelona, returning from London
2 nights at the Grand Hotel Central Barcelona incl. breakfast
· 14 night cruise aboard Azamara Journey® incl. all main meals+ and entertainment on board
2 nights at the Radisson Blu Edwardian Berkshire incl. breakfast
Transfers between airport, hotel & port
Club Interior from $9,225pp*
· Longer stays, more overnights
Club Verandah from $10,995pp*
14 night holiday includes:
Flight to Athens, returning from Venice
2 nights at the Hilton Athens incl. breakfast
· 10 night cruise aboard Azamara PursuitSM incl. all main meals+ and entertainment on board
2 nights at the Hotel Papadopoli Venice incl. breakfast
Transfers between airport, hotel & port
Club Interior from $8,335pp*
· Gourmet cuisine+ and entertainment on board
· Select beer, wine & spirits throughout the voyage
Club Verandah from $9,985pp*
· Bottled water, soft drinks, speciality coffee and teas
· Shuttle service to and from port (In select ports of call only)
· Onboard gratuities
adult in AUD, based on lead-in twin share accommodation in each of the specified categories, including Economy Class airfares ex Australia (Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, Adelaide or Perth) and air taxes, port and government charges, hotel taxes and gratuities (excluding onboard purchases), correct as at 8 November 2018. Valid until 31 January 2019, is capacity controlled, subject to change/availability and can be withdrawn at any time without notice. Does not include any additional accommodation made necessary by flight schedules. +Excludes specialty restaurants. All savings/discounts have been applied. Prices are subject to change due to fluctuations in charges, taxes and currency even after the deposit is paid. Agents may charge service fees/or fees for card payments which vary. Full terms and conditions of Azamara Club Cruises apply. Cancellation penalties and conditions apply.
*Prices
are per
IT’S BACK TO THE FUTURE IN MACAO, A SPECTACULAR FUSION OF MODERN ARCHITECTURE AND PORTUGUESE HERITAGE, CULTURE AND FOOD, WRITES JUDITH ELEN
I’M SKIMMING ACROSS THE WATERS OF THE PEARL River Delta , a Macao innocent. I’ve taken the TurboJet Ferry, a 70-minute express trip west from Hong Kong International Airport, and I feel like a water creature chancing on a mythic land.
Strung along the horizon, red, silver and gold-mirrored towers stand angled, frieze-like against the clouds. Shapeshifting Grand Lisboa, at times a razor-edged lotus blossom, now raises its dragon’s head above the low-rise waterfront.
There are other means of ingress to this intriguing city. Macao International Airport in Taipa connects with several Asian destinations. And the new Hong Kong-Zhuhai-Macao Bridge – the world’s longest sea bridge which opened recently – extends on pylon legs across the wide Pearl River Estuary, edging my vision as I cross.
Like Hong Kong, Macao is a Special Administrative Region of China and the mainland is so close at points, I feel I could wade across.
The little I know about Macao, so far, involves its high-rise casinos and five-star resorts. They alone – mainly in Cotai and Taipa (near the crossing to Cotai) – are a light-filled wonderland of discovery but, as I am soon to learn, there is much more to this peninsula and its two connected islands.
The casinos are a dual legacy. From the 16th-century, mainland Chinese workers brought their culture of gaming to the Portuguese colony; and in 1847, lucrative taxes in mind, the government legalised gambling.
The 19th-century fantan stalls, not to mention the smoke-filled opium dens that contributed to Macao’s reputation as the Casablanca of the South China Seas, have long given way to glittering casino towers, but Portugal’s historic and cultural legacy runs far deeper. >>
Previous page: The striking new Morpheus hotel at City of Dreams.
Above: Cathedral of the Nativity of Our Lady, and the Ruins of St Paul’s, a Macao landmark.
Below: Signature dim sum platter at Jade Dragon.
Opposite: Enjoy fine dining in The Tasting Room at City of Dreams.
Aji
In Taipa and Coloane Village, the island-districts flanking Cotai to its north and south, Portuguese heritage imbues the bustling streets.
Old blue-and-white tiles record Portuguese street names (now with Chinese characters added); several Jesuit and Dominican churches, washed in pastel yellows and greens, jostle with Taoist temples; and Portuguese restaurants, cafes and bakeries mingle with every genre of Chinese eatery, confirming Macao’s epicurean reputation.
Macao’s glitzy metropolis offers sumptuous hotel and resort accommodations and facilities, the latest technology, and stunning aesthetics in and outside fanciful buildings created by architecture’s great names, such as Zaha Hadid Architects (Morpheus in City of Dreams) and Pei Partnership (Macao Science Center, City of Dreams Theatre).
Venice’s canals and palaces are conjured up at The Venetian. Walls hung with priceless Qing Dynasty carpets radiate from
Overlooking the MGM Cotai atrium, Aji’s sensational Japanese-Peruvian fusion Nikkei cuisine is overseen by one of the world’s top chefs, Mitsuharu Tsumura, paying homage to ceviche, sushi, pisco, teppanyaki, sake et al. mgm.mo/en/cotai/dining/aji
Boasting two Michelin stars, Jade Dragon offers refined Chinese cuisine with an inventive use of luxe ingredients (foie gras, wagyu, garoupa, goose), perfect service and exquisite décor in gold, jade and crystal. cityofdreamsmacau.com
A rustic and traditional restaurant in Coloane Village, this is the place for authentic home-style Portuguese food; try the presunto pata negra and African chicken with coconut from Mozambique and fine wines from Portugal. Bookings: +853 2888 2226.
MGM Cotai’s huge atrium, with its glossy golden sculpture beneath a faceted glass dome. And Cotai nights hum with lights and warmth. A gondola glides above orchestrated water jets to a unique dinner show at Wynn Palace’s SW Restaurant. In City of Dreams, audiences are transfixed by House of Dancing Water, a spectacle created by Franco Dragone, rooted in classical Confucianism.
And yet all of this contemporary luxury and casino glitz blossoms on reclaimed land: Old Macao remains traditional, rustic and surprisingly accessible.
A dedicated flaneur, I set out to explore the peninsula’s UNESCO-listed Historic Centre (visit macaotourism.gov.mo for excellent walking tours).
Camões Garden, above street level at Escada do Papel, is dense with narrow paths, historic trees and hanging vines. Few people are here but us “locals” revel in the relative calm. Neighbourhood women move in synch through tai-chi >>
Above: The new Hong Kong – Zhuhai – Macao Bridge; the colour and spectacle of The House of Dancing Water. Right; MGM Cotai’s Venetian canals, and the lobby of The Ritz-Carlton.
Opposite page: Tin Hau Temple in A-Ma Cultural Village; view of The Grand Lisboa from the ramparts of Fortaleza do Monte.
poses, twisting open fans. Men play cards at a stone table, while a woman sweeps paths with a witch’s broom.
I survey a warren of side streets, metal-grille balconies, brightly coloured washing, tiled rooftops, cement apartment blocks and flowering trees.
Down in those streets, a narrow opening between corrugated rooftops and yolk-washed walls reveals a stone stairway, flashes of scarlet, wisps of smoke and the steeptiled roof of a tiny Buddhist temple.
On the wall of the yellow house, Calçada do Galo is inscribed in blue-on-white tiles beneath Chinese characters. At the jade-green metal-grille door, a shrine wafts blue smoke through red and gold lanterns, columns painted with gold characters, green porcelain dragons, fresh lilies and encrusted urns.
Traditional Portuguese tile painting (azulejos) is everywhere, including a black galleon and sea monster in a
Morpheus
This Zaha Hadid-designed hotel in City of Dreams opened in June with a soaring lobby atrium, 40th-floor sky pool, 962 guest rooms and suites, and ultra-luxe rooftop villas (some duplexes, others with indoor pools), all set in a futuristic steel-frame exoskeleton. cityofdreamsmacau.com
MGM Cotai
Luxe but subtle rooms range upwards to Skyloft duplexes, all but the lowest level with panoramic Cotai views. Public spaces are decorated with gold, glass, artworks and carpets from Beijing’s Forbidden City. mgm.mo
The Ritz-Carlton
Perched on the top floor of the Galaxy Resort, suites average 96 square meters in dove grey, taupe and white, while public interiors shimmer with Murano glass. Relax in the elegant Bar & Lounge or outdoor pool and spa. ritzcarlton.com/macau
white cobbled pathway; in the 18th-century senate building, an ornate frieze encloses a flower garden and fountain. White tiles with ink-blue galleons, a tonsured missionary, robed Chinese dignitaries and angels decorate a high wall near Macao’s 17th-century cathedral.
From a terrace behind the Ruins of St. Paul’s elaborate facade, stairs lead up the interior to a high lookout and, below, to the subterranean Museu de Arte Sacra housing antique religious relics.
Looking out, the ruin’s empty arches frame Grand Lisboa’s gold-faceted dragon’s head wreathed in clouds. In front, a brass dragon urn is crammed with joss sticks.
Many-pavilioned A-Ma Temple (on the peninsula’s tip), dedicated to Confucianism, Buddhism, Taoism and multiple folk deities, pre-dates the city. The first arrivals from Lisbon, asking the name of the land, were told the name of this shrine. Westernised, Ma Ge (Ma Gok in Cantonese) became Macao.
This is Macao’s multi-layered heritage of shrines and churches, deities, buildings and, of course, food.
In Coloane Village, white-washed, heavy-beamed Espaço Lisboa, a one-time pirate hangout and fisherman’s house, is Michelin Guide-listed for good traditional fare.
Flamingo restaurant at Regency Art Hotel in Taipa specialises in Macanese cuisine, especially African chicken with chili sauce. In Taipa Village, O Manel charcoal-grills the morning’s market buys to serve, with other home-style Portuguese dishes, at tiny tables beneath soccer posters.
And, while dim sum is everywhere, Long Wah, redolent of the 1960s, is one of three surviving traditional Chinese teahouses (near Red Market).
Michelin accolades cover 18 starred and nine Bib Gourmand establishments in Macao. Chinese, Portuguese, rustic or finessed, in villages or high-rise temples, Macanese food and culture is indeed a banquet.
Cathay Pacific flies daily from Australia to Hong Kong. For fares and bookings, visit cathaypacific.com. Hong Kong International Airport has five business lounges, including The Pier, with a teahouse, noodle bar, relaxation room and shower suites.
The Sea Express Ferry Terminal, near Arrivals, schedules four daily Macao departures, and airline luggage can be checked through to Macao. Visit turbojet.com.hk For more information on Macao, visit macaotourism.gov.mo or visitmacao.com.au
KELLY ALLEN CHECKS INTO BALI’S NEW REVIVO WELLNESS RESORT, A LUXE RETREAT WHERE HEALTH AND RELAXATION REIGN SUPREME
PERHAPS IT’S THE MASS OF WHITE BOUGAINVILLEA that cascades over the stone walls, the whisper of the everpresent breeze through the forest, or the weightlessness of lying on my back in the saltwater float pool, but I haven’t felt this relaxed in a very long time.
Revivo, which translates to “I’ll live again”, is a boutique wellness retreat located in the hilltops of Nusa Dua in southern Bali. Launched in April, the resort is nestled in almost three hectares of teak forest far from Bali’s major tourist centres, yet only 25 minutes by road from Denpasar International Airport.
The retreat’s 16 Balinese-style rooms, designed by the late and great Australian architect Kerry Hill, feature exquisite freestanding villas and two sprawling four-bedroom residences.
My courtyard pool villa has a four-poster bed, a sunken tub that looks out to a private koi pond, indoor and alfresco showers and an oversized daybed that’s perfect for indulgent afternoon naps.
Opening the closet, I realise I could have packed a carry-on as the wardrobe is thoughtfully stocked with a sunhat, beach bag, sarong, and even yoga gear to use during my stay.
The resort was originally designed as a private villa for Adrian Zecha, the founder of Aman Resorts, and the lush gardens have had plenty of time to proliferate with mature trees providing a cool and protective natural canopy from the heat of the sun.
Vast Balinese carvings and several Buddha statues are scattered throughout the property, while the stone walls are swathed in emerald moss and decked with bougainvillea.
There is a beach with sun loungers only a few minutes’ drive away, but I must admit that during my three-day stay, I never venture down the hill as the resort is so delightful.
Health and wellness are cornerstones of the Revivo ethos, and the resort wastes no time pointing me in the right direction. At 7.30am on my first day, one of the ever-smiling staff knocks gently on my door to deliver a trio of healthy shots: a traditional turmeric jamu (a famed local elixir), warm lemon juice with sea salt and a ginger kombucha. This delicious daily ritual helps the liver detox and gets the digestive system ready for the day ahead.
After morning yoga, I meet Kathy Cook, one of Revivo’s expert wellness consultants, to go over my retreat. After
reviewing my pre-arrival health questionnaire – which is both extensive and incredibly well thought out – she gives me a tailormade program to suit my needs.
I’ll be experiencing the “Emotional Balance and Mind Training” program and Kathy incorporates the most appropriate fitness classes, diet and spa treatments aimed at restoring mind and body balance as well as achieving my retreat objectives.
There are six programs on offer, from detox and weight loss to anti-ageing and de-stressing, all of which can be easily adjusted to suit your personal needs.
The consultation also includes a body analysis which measures key statistics like BMI (body mass index), muscle and fat ratios, visceral fat and metabolic age (which I’m delighted to learn finds me seven years younger).
I’m given a take-home journal that outlines the program and my daily schedule as well as tips on mindfulness, lots of healthy recipes and a section for self-reflection.
My days are spent between fitness classes, healthy meals
and soothing spa treatments. At the fitness centre, Moveo, I experience hammock yoga for the first time, and despite not looking quite like a Cirque du Soleil performer, I love the feeling of being suspended upside down with my legs wrapped around the parachute-like hammock and decide I will try this again at home.
I am pushed to my limit with kickboxing, TRX and high intensity interval training (HIIT) classes, all of which make the subsequent spa sessions that much better. The afternoons are slower paced with gentle classes like qi gong, yin yoga and a daily spa treatment.
Remissio Spa has five double treatment rooms and more than 50 therapy options. My program delivers an aromatherapy massage, a rejuvenating facial, as well as my favourite – a deeply relaxing Ayurvedic treatment called shirodhara that involves oil slowly drizzled on my third eye and onto my scalp.
I’m especially impressed with spa therapist Ratih and her vast knowledge of traditional Balinese medicine and healing, all of which she learned from her mother and grandmother. >>
Our session goes way over time as I ask her question after question, and she generously gives me answers, never rushing me along.
The meals enjoyed at Revivo’s Nutrio restaurant are created by Spanish chef Aliwalu using local organic ingredients, mostly plantbased with no additives, preservatives or processed ingredients.
Meals are generous and lunch and dinner comprise several courses, meaning I never feel hungry. I especially love the kitchari, made with lentils, red rice, coriander, kimchee and vegetables, and the “La Vie en Rose”, a soup made from beetroot, sweet potato, roasted onions and grilled shitake with rosemary and probiotic herbs and spices.
Downtime is spent enjoying Revivo’s infrared sauna and steam room, and trying to conquer the cold-water plunge, which at six degrees is very difficult. Reportedly great for inflammation and circulation, I persevere each day but my longest stint is only 90 seconds before I numbly climb out and jump in the adjacent warm pool.
There’s also a 25-metre lap pool, surrounded by four-poster daybeds and ample sun loungers for afternoon lazing.
On my final day, I’m given an unexpected opportunity to nurture my spiritual side and invited to experience the Balinese Hindu offering of canang sari.
As one of several daily offering ceremonies, it involves small fresh flower baskets with incense sticks being placed on Hindu
shrines. Blessings and prayers of thanks are sung to the many Hindu gods and I follow along as best as I can.
It’s a beautiful way to take a few moments to express gratitude, and I feel a rush of emotion as we finish with our hands pressed together in prayer under the towering stone temple adorned with flowers. I leave Revivo with a renewed sense of body, mind and spirit – just as this special retreat intended.
The world’s best luxury health and wellness destinations are at luxurytravelmag.com.au
Qantas flies daily from Sydney and Melbourne to Denpasar, Bali. For fares and bookings, visit qantas.com. Revivo Wellness Resort is about 25 minutes by private car from Denpasar International Airport.
A three-night Emotional Balance and Mind Training Retreat in a Courtyard Suite costs US$3950 (about A$5580), twin-share, including full board, wellness consultations, one Remissiō spa treatment per day, three Moveō classes and airport transfers.
Following Revivo’s success in Bali, there are also plans to this year launch Revivo Wellness Cruise near Komodo National Park and Revivo Wellness Castle, Château de Fiac, in France. For more information and bookings, visit revivoresorts.com
GWINGANNA LIFESTYLE RETREAT HAS LAUNCHED NEW TREATMENTS, A YOGA RETREAT AND UPDATED SUITES AHEAD OF THE SUMMER SEASON
LEADING AUSTRALIAN HEALTH AND wellness sanctuary Gwinganna Lifestyle
Retreat has upped the ante on its therapeutic offerings, just in time for summer.
Zen-seeking guests can now choose from an additional three new Ayurvedic spa treatments, a luxe anti-ageing facial as well as a first-of-its-kind yoga retreat in March next year, and it’s all set in Gwinganna’s lush Gold Coast hinterland.
The new body scrubs and body wrap treatments are all inspired by the ancient Indian medicine practice of Ayurveda and use rich and fragrant lotions, oils and essences that incorporate natural ingredients like turmeric, ginger and holy basil as well as the awardwinning Rasayana blend from Subtle Energies.
For those more interested in some exclusive face time, there’s no looking past Gwinganna’s new anti-ageing facial, which incorporates luxury certified organic product, Panacee, and which currently can’t be experienced anywhere else in Australia. It also includes a deep tissue facial massage performed with a sound wave machine, which will lull even the most stressed of guests into a state of deep relaxation.
Considered a haven for stressed city dwellers, Gwinganna is the largest spa in the Southern Hemisphere and has long been the go-to Australian wellness destination for those seeking assistance with adrenal fatigue and exhaustion.
Guests can choose how much or how
little they wish to do out of the extensive spa, wellness, emotional wellbeing, stress management and private training offering.
For something new in accommodation at the retreat, opt for a refurbished deluxe Orchard Suite, now with a deep, freestanding bath positioned on the outdoor deck overlooking the orchard.
Fully inclusive rates at Gwinganna Lifestyle Retreat start from $1045 per person, twin-share, for a two-night Wellness Weekend. Rates for the new Yoga Retreat, being held from March 28 to March 31, start from $1565 (fully inclusive). For bookings, visit gwinganna.com
A LUXURY WALKING TOUR IN WESTERN AUSTRALIA DELIVERS SPECTACULAR VISTAS OF COASTAL WILDERNESS AND WILDFLOWERS, WRITES KELLY ALLEN
Boranup Karri Forest
BEFORE HEADING TO MARGARET RIVER FOR A FOUR-DAY walking trip, I had anticipated extraordinary coastal scenery, sensational wine, delicious regional food and luxurious accommodation.
What I didn’t have any idea about were the incredible wildflowers blooming in masses throughout the region. Purple, yellow, blue, pink, red and orange – some as large as my fist, others as tiny as a baby’s fingernail.
There are spider orchids, pink fairies, purple pansy orchids, wild geraniums, and my favourite, donkey orchids (like a donkey’s face with long ears). I had no idea I liked wildflowers, but I quickly became that person who stops every few minutes for a floral photo-opportunity.
Fortunately, the rest of the group feels the same, so on the first day we’re a bit slow as we ‘oooh’ and ‘ahhh’ over every new flower, every passing petal. No matter, this is a wilderness walk through coastal nature at its best and none of us are in any mood to rush.
The area surrounding the Cape to Cape Track is one of Australia’s most important biodiversity hotspots, and it’s easy to see why.
There are more than 2,500 species in the region, 80 per cent of which cannot be found anywhere else. Every season in Western Australia’s spectacular southwest region has its own unique beauty, but August to November is the best time to experience its wildflowers.
The entire Cape to Cape Track extends 135 kilometres from Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse in the north to Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse in the south and takes about a week to complete, with most people camping in tents or at caravan parks along the track.
For those who love walking, but prefer not to rough it, locally owned and operated Walk into Luxury specialises in small group and private walking tours in the Margaret River region.
Along the way, guests enjoy gourmet food and fine wine as well as a deluxe villa with heated plunge pool and muscle-soothing optional spa treatments at the day’s end.
Walk into Luxury has carefully curated the most scenic sections of the iconic track, showcasing the coast’s unique terrain, flora and fauna as well as the best culinary and vineyard offerings the region has to offer. It’s no surprise this is one of the Great Walks of Australia, an exclusive collection of outstanding nature experiences across the continent.
Over four memorable days and three relaxed nights, our group of 10 is led by skilled guides, Tracy and Ann, along rugged sandstone clifftops, across wild and remote beaches, and through vast karri forests.
We see whales, dolphins, kangaroos and native birds including eagles throughout the day. Unlike some walks that start at the crack of dawn, most days start at 8am (you are on holiday, after all) and cover an average of six to 15 kilometres.
On our first morning, we are treated to a private tour of Ngilgi Cave near Yallingup by local Wadandi and cave custodian Josh “Koomal” Whiteland, whose family has a strong history in the region.
Josh is incredibly knowledgeable about the region’s unique flora and fauna and shares his passion for native foods and bush medicine.
He tells us the Dreamtime story of Ngilgi (pronounced Neelgee) – a good spirit who triumphed in battle against an evil spirit, Wolgine – and then plays the didgeridoo from the depths of the cave. The captivating sound echoes through the natural amphitheatre and sends chills up my spine.
My favourite day starts at beautiful Redgate Beach, exploring stretches of white sand and turquoise bays, hidden caves tucked into the cliffs, and finishing the day in Boranup Karri Forest.
The walk is classified as moderate, and except for a couple of sets of stairs and a sand dune, there isn’t anything overly difficult to cope with. Our group ranges in age from mid-40s to mid-60s; some are >>
keen walkers while for others, this is their first organised trek. It’s actually ideal for beginners, avid hikers and everyone in between.
Injidup Spa Retreat, where we are shuttled back to each afternoon, is a welcome sanctuary located on the walking track above Injidup Beach. Each of the 10 self-contained two-bedroom units has heated stone floors, a kitchen, laundry, dining and sitting room.
Afternoons at the resort are spent enjoying a spa treatment, exploring the beach, or curling up with a book in front of the fire in your villa. A pre-dinner soak with a glass of wine in the heated plunge pool swiftly becomes a daily routine.
Glass bi-fold doors open to a private deck with a barbecue, plunge pool and unobstructed views of the Indian Ocean. The minibar is stocked with premium regional wines, gourmet cheeses, homemade cookies, granola, and bread and jam, all provided by local gourmet cafe Merchant and Maker.
I usually don’t give hotel minibars a second glance, but this one impressively reflects the curated values and all-inclusive offerings of Walk into Luxury, and I happily partake in sampling everything throughout my stay.
Merchant and Maker also supply our picnic lunches, which include hearty fresh salads like chicken and Asian coleslaw on spinach leaves or Indian curried rice with roasted vegetables.
Homemade fig and nut bars, cakes, cookies, and healthy energy balls are generously handed out at morning tea – so much for thinking I might shed a kilo or two.
Dinners are also special events with a four-course menu at Cape Lodge overlooking the lake on our first night, and a delicious in-house private dinner prepared by local chef Andrea Ilott on our final evening.
Slow-roasted lamb with middle eastern spices, roasted vegetable salad, grilled red snapper, and a spectacular Persian love cake with labna for dessert are just a few of the culinary treats and, of course, we enjoy copious sparkling and still wines each evening.
On our final day, we walk about three hours before being transferred to award-winning winery Wills Domain for a very long, very delicious celebratory lunch. Think rainbow trout with horseradish, glazed beef short rib, miso roasted Jerusalem artichoke, and a Snickers-inspired salted caramel, chocolate and peanut dessert.
All too soon, it’s time to head back to Perth. Our driver, ‘Trusty Rusty’ as we have come to refer to him, navigates the three-and-a-halfhour journey while we laugh about favourite parts of the trip. It’s not the hardest nor the easiest walk I’ve ever done, but it’s certainly the most luxurious.
Discover more about the wonders of Western Australia at luxurytravelmag.com.au
Rates for the four-day Cape to Cape Walk start from $2690 per person, twin-share. The all-inclusive price also covers return transfers by road from Perth to Margaret River.
Walk into Luxury tours last from one to six days, featuring the Cape to Cape Track as well as the Bibbulmun Track, which runs for a 1000 kilometres from Kalamunda (near Perth) to Albany and Denmark. Extended personalised touring in Western Australia is also available.
For more information and bookings, visit walkintoluxury.com.au
Travel 3800km across the South Pacific on the adventure of a lifetime
VISIT 9 FRENCH POLYNESIAN ISLANDS IN 13 DAYS
ARANUI 5 OFFERS THE ULTIMATE PASSENGER FREIGHTER EXPERIENCE
MEALS, GUIDED SHORE EXCURSIONS AND ONBOARD ACTIVITIES INCLUDED IN THE FARE
For an authentic French Polynesian experience like no other, join passenger freighter Aranui 5 on a 13-day cruise around the Society, Tuamotu and Marquesas Islands
Feast on local and traditional cuisine in remote villages
Learn ancient tribal traditions such as haka dancing and weaving
Follow in the footsteps of famous French artist Paul Gauguin
Enjoy a picnic on a private island in Bora Bora
Experience life on a supply ship with local crew
Cruise on a Polynesian-style small ship
IT’S EASY TO GET LOST AT BABYLONSTOREN. MEANDERING leisurely through this majestic plaaswerf (farmyard) in the heart of South Africa’s wine country, I am enveloped by a welcome tranquillity, and it’s more than just the shiraz taking effect.
Flanked by the Simonsberg, Du Toitskloof and Franschhoek mountains, Babylonstoren is a beautifully preserved Cape Dutch farm, complete with a boutique hotel and spa, three restaurants, vineyards and a cellar door, and 3.5 hectares of labyrinthine gardens.
The owners suggest allocating a couple of hours to the joys of wandering here. I have nowhere near that kind of time, but can’t resist a ramble – past verdant lawns; alongside roaming ducks and chickens; under a pumpkin arbor with its curiously shaped vegetables hanging like chandeliers from trellises; through the prickly pear maze. It’s an entirely grounding experience, which is all well and good until I almost miss my departing wine tram.
No matter, there’ll be another one. Babylonstoren is, after all, one of 27 wine estates serviced by the Franschhoek Wine Tram. Launched in 2012, the daily hop-on, hop-off service is arguably the easiest – and surely the most charming – way to experience Franschhoek Valley’s celebrated vineyards.
Franschhoek, Afrikaans for ‘French Corner’, is an endearing destination located an hour’s drive east of Cape Town. Settled in the late 17th century by French Huguenot refugees, this picturesque village has evolved to pack a mighty gastronomic punch.
There’s just one main street, Huguenot Road, but it is bustling with galleries, boutiques and an impressively high
concentration of notable restaurants.
Beyond the high street, there are more than 50 wine producers in the region, from quaint boutique offerings to large-scale wineries, and diverse climate and soil conditions mean both white and red varieties receive strong billing. Franschhoek is also one of South Africa’s leading Méthode Cap Classique (sparkling) producers.
Aboard the wine tram, we tour the Purple Line – a decision based only on the calendar; all eight routes are first-rate – and our first stop is Allée Bleue, named for the grand blue eucalypts that line the entrance.
In a sun-dappled courtyard overlooking the Drakenstein Mountains, the 2014 Isabeau – a silky blend of chardonnay, semillon and viognier – effortlessly converts this most-staunch red drinker. Paired with a creamy camembert, it’s a dream start to this blue-sky day.
The star of the Wine Tram fleet, which includes modified ‘tram’ buses to help reach each location, is the open-sided double-decker tram. Modelled on the Brill Trams of the 1890s, the forest green beauty with brass and timber detailing is old-world charm on tracks; previously dormant, 114-year-old tracks to be precise. Wine Tram founder and owner, David Blyth, says transforming the railway line from its state of disrepair was the project’s biggest challenge and one plenty of people suggested he run, not walk away from. Thankfully, he persevered.
We board the vehicle and, like school kids hoping for the back seat on the bus, head straight to the top for a position up front on the ‘balcony’. The sweeping, uninterrupted >>
valley views are jaw-dropping, and then the wine arrives. Appropriately, it’s just a small drop to enjoy between vineyards, but it’s the perfect accompaniment. A quick moment to reflect and I’m grounded again.
The mountains continue to take centre stage at Vrede en Lust, where it’s difficult to peel myself away from the vista. So I don’t. At least not as I swirl and sip my way through a curated selection of the estate’s wine catalogue including the tropical 2017 White Mischief; the crisp and fruity Jess rosé; and the rich 2017 Mocholate Malbec, with its mocha and chocolate aromas.
Speaking of which, Vrede en Lust offers a six-wine tasting with matched Lindt chocolate. Not surprisingly, bookings are essential.
On to Babylonstoren, the site of my timing faux pas. After a quick tipple in the contemporary tasting room, complete with floor-to-ceiling glass walls for more of those magnificent views, I duck off to the much-lauded garden.
I’m knee-deep in fragrant rosemary when I realise the time. There’s only one option and it goes against everything I seek from a luxury holiday. I have to run.
Unfortunately – for me and for those patiently awaiting my arrival – my path to the tram finishes with a long straight. My dash to the finish line has become a spectator sport, and I have all the grace of the garden’s misshapen gourds.
Regardless, I jump on in the nick of time, embarrassingly short of breath and to the effusive applause of my fellow passengers. I take a bashful bow, but know I am in forgiving company. We are, after all, three vineyards in. Cheers to that.
Every bit as charming as the name suggests, this boutique hotel provides an indulgent base just one kilometre from town. The Villa Suites provide opulence in both style and space, and feature two private balconies. Award-winning Monneaux Restaurant is a genuine treat. fch.co.za
Mont Rochelle
A member of Richard Branson’s Virgin Limited Edition portfolio, Mont Rochelle delivers contemporary luxury with playful touches and sensational mountain views. The formal restaurant here, Miko, is a treat too, but it’s entirely possible Guest Liaison Manager Peter Karanja is the hotel’s most memorable feature. A true gem. virginlimitededition.com/mont-rochelle
To mark their 50th anniversary, Bench Africa have launched a ‘13-day Luxury Signature Safari Special’, featuring Cape Town, Franschhoek and a luxury safari in a private game reserve near Kruger National Park. Prices start from $4995 per person, twinshare, a saving of $1610 per person. For more information or to book, call 1300 AFRICA (237 422) or visit benchafrica.com
South African Airways offers daily services with code share partner Virgin Australia from Sydney, Melbourne, Adelaide and Brisbane. Connect to a South African Airways flight from Perth to Cape Town via Johannesburg. Prices start from $2100 return, subject to terms and conditions. Visit flysaa.com.au or call 1300 435 972.
THERE’S NOTHING QUITE SO SATISFYING as arriving at your holiday destination knowing that from the moment you check in, everything is taken care of.
AMResorts’ luxurious properties are not only set in the beautiful, exotic surrounds of Mexico, Jamaica, Costa Rica and the Dominican Republic, but each resort is also all-inclusive, so guests can simply settle in and enjoy paradise without a care in the world.
With no fewer than seven luxury brands in the AMResorts portfolio – each resort with its own unique personality – there is a tropical hideaway to suit all tastes and budgets.
Endless Privileges offered by Zoëtry Wellness & Spa Resorts and Unlimited-Luxury packages cater to those seeking an adults-only retreat, while the Unlimited-Fun packages on offer at AM Resorts’ family-oriented properties mean there is a resort for every type of traveller.
Couples seeking nothing short of the
best will love the sophisticated, all-adults sanctuaries offered by Secrets Resorts & Spas, set in the stunning surrounds of the Caribbean.
In a reimagining of the all-inclusive experience, Unlimited-Luxury means unparalleled pampering sessions in worldclass spas and gourmet dining, along with premium spirits, live entertainment and an array of activities.
Curated cocktails at chic lounges and innovative cuisine at specialty restaurants await, while the pool and beachside service, 24-hour room service and daily refreshed mini-bars in luxe and modern suites will satisfy the fussiest of travellers.
Dreams Resorts & Spas and Sunscape Resorts & Spas are ideal for guests travelling with children, with The Explorer’s Club for Kids supervised by Red Cross-certified staff and Core Zone Teens Club providing supervised day and evening activities. The Unlimited-Fun package means everything is
included, so parents can leave their stresses at the airport.
Now Resorts & Spas takes the multigenerational factor up a notch, catering to groups travelling together or on holiday for special occasions like family reunions and weddings.
More adventurous travellers will be drawn to Reflect Resorts & Spas, with a focus on vibrant and active holidays, while Breathless Resorts & Spas’ puts the emphasis on spectacular oceanfront accommodation.
With sun-soaked beaches, elegant accommodations, world-class spas, gourmet dining, and unlimited premium drinks all taken care of, only one question remains: which AMResorts property will you pick?
For more information and reservations, visit amresorts.com
ZURICH IS SWITZERLAND’S LARGEST CITY YET OFFERS A COCKTAIL OF INTIMATE EXPERIENCES IN A GLORIOUS LAKESIDE SETTING, AS ANNA KING SHAHAB DISCOVERS
Cosy meets contemporary in the fine dining restaurants of Zurich’s luxe Widder Hotel, where cutting-edge cocktails, left, are the order of the day.
IT MAY NOT BE LOUD, HEDONISTIC, FLASHY OR OVERTLY eclectic, but Zurich offers visitors a marriage of old and new, subtle and showy, natural and man-made, in an environment that’s as safe and clean as it gets.
As I exit Hauptbahnhof, Zurich’s central train station, into the pale morning sunlight, it’s immediately apparent that this is a city designed around water.
The Limmat and Sihl rivers emerge from the eponymous, bananashaped lake the city sits at the top of, and the historic moat that once lapped against the city walls is now the pretty Schanzengraben canal.
In the summer months – tapering off with our arrival in late September – locals make a beeline to the badis (enclosed swimming areas) that dot these waterways.
Some double as lively bars, such as Rimini-Bar on the Schanzengraben, which is a men’s-only pool during the day and cocktail bar after dusk, complete with festoon lights and a large deck scattered with inviting cushions.
It’s a quick tram hop to reach our hotel, The Marktgasse, in the cobblestoned Neumarkt side of the Altstadt (Old Town), and on the east bank of the Limmat with its low-slung river boats.
Whatever your destination, there are multiple options for getting around Switzerland’s biggest city. Our morning walk through this historic quarter of winding alleys rings with echoes: transit van doors slamming; delivery workers’ banter; rubbish trucks grinding.
Come 11am, these vehicles must leave these pedestrianised streets, giving way to local workers flocking to lunch in the many small cafes and bistros.
Every few steps there’s another gem of a shopfront to be pored over: from the chocolate-box perfection of confectionary shops such as Teuscher and the city’s oldest cafe, Conditorei Shober, to the many shops bearing the insignia of the still-active local guilds (zunfte) that were once the backbone of Zurich society, to Cabaret Voltaire, where Hugo Ball and Emmy Hennings founded the Dada movement in 1916.
Our winding walk leads us up to the Lindenhof. This Roman fort turned peaceful plaza offers a quiet, linden tree-shaded refuge on what is turning into a very warm late September day, and a view over the Old Town, the Limmat, and the landmark Grossmunster church –the birthplace of the 16th-century Swiss-German reformation.
As a contrast, that afternoon we hop on the tram to Zurich West, to immerse ourselves in the epicentre of the city’s foray into modern urban development, in the form of converted industrial buildings.
Im Viadukt is a development of boutiques, bars and eateries stretching the length of the arches under the rail viaduct. It leads to a quarter built from shipping containers, presided over by Freitag Tower, a stack of 19 containers housing the innovative bag brand’s flagship store, and Frau Gerolds Garten, a space buzzing with locals happily relaxing in the organic gardens.
Over the tracks, Langstrasse is also starting to bloom; it retains a little of its former red-light grittiness, but this is the best place to
come for eclectic shops, cafes and bars. Bordering the impressive Europaallee, an in-progress urban quarter, more retailers and innovative tech companies are moving into the area, so this is certainly a spot to watch.
In the boutique Widder Hotel, stylishly spanning eight Medieval townhouses just off the exclusive retail strip of Bahnhofstrasse, the Widder Bar & Kitchen has made a bold move, in this city that is very much still enamoured with white table linen, in overhauling the menu under young chef Tino Staub.
Gourmet dishes are designed for sharing and arranged by elements such as smoke, chilli and basil.
Architect Tilla Theus’ clever reworking of the space combines old (such as wooden beams from the early 1200s) and new. Live jazz is another drawcard. Downstairs, Boucherie AuGust offers a range of carnivorous delights befitting of this former butchers’ guildhouse. Get a taste of old-world Zurich hospitality and pomp at Restaurant Zunfthaus zur Waag, in the charmingly old-fashioned wool, linen and hatters’ guildhouse overlooking the elegant Munsterhof square. This is the place to try the city’s signature dish Zurcher geschnetzeltes – veal in a creamy sauce – with two rosti, each as big as one’s head.
During special events, the restaurant turns the fountain in Munsterhof into a wine dispenser for guests: one part magic, one part twee, but on the whole, just jolly good fun. Food festivals are a relatively new adoption here, but Food Zurich proves this city can come together to celebrate eating and drinking as heartily as any other. Over the course of 11 days (May 16 to 26 in 2019), more than 100 events help the city celebrate everything from street food to fine dining. Look out for other local specialties. Daintier than Parisian counterpart, the macaron, and filled with fresh buttercream, Sprungli’s famous Luxemburgerli come in flavours such as Champagne Deluxe. I highly recommend buying an assorted, beautifully boxed selection before a long train ride.
Biber are a honey-enriched soft gingerbread filled with almond paste, and making them the traditional way is a dying art. Look for Leibacher’s biber in cafes and delicatessens; they’re made by hand at a small factory in Zurich, founded by young brothers Claudio and Silvan Leibacher.
Claudio hand-carves the wooden blocks himself or delves into his collection of blocks that date back hundreds of years to give the top layer of the biber their signature decorative imprint.
SWISS operates daily flights from Australia to Zurich, via Singapore, Hong Kong or Bangkok, with its partner airlines Singapore Airlines, Cathay Pacific, Qantas and Thai Airways. For fares and bookings, visit swiss.com For more information about Zurich, Switzerland in general and the Swiss Travel System, visit MySwitzerland.com and MySwitzerland.com/rail
The elegant Widder Bar
One of Zurich’s dramatic sunsets
Zurcher geschnetzeltes
Beetroot macarons
© Images courtesy of Widder Hotel Zurich
THE SMALL LANDLOCKED COUNTRY OF BHUTAN MAY WELL BE ONE OF THE WORLD’S LAST TRUE TRAVEL FRONTIERS, WRITES NATASHA DRAGUN
Previous page and above: Monks young and old play a critical role in the daily life of Bhutan, home to the monumental Buddha Dordenma Statue that towers over Thimpu.
Below and opposite page: Traditional dance, authentic food, historic sights and a majestic landscape draw thousands of intrepid travellers to Bhutan each year.
THERE’S A MOMENT, ABOUT HALFWAY UP THE PINEcovered mountains surrounding Paro Taktsang monastery, when I begin to understand why Bhutan is known as The Kingdom in the Clouds.
It’s late spring, and my guide Arya Dew and I have been walking since dawn to avoid the heat of the day. Despite being one of the world’s most significant Buddhist pilgrimage sites, the iconic monastery (also known as Tiger’s Nest) and trail are blissfully quiet at this time of the day – the soft jangle of bells and flapping of prayer flags are the only sounds as we walk.
The track to get to the temple, which clings to cliffs “like a gecko”, as the locals like to say, is steep, long and at a dizzying altitude. But Arya cuts a cracking pace, despite wearing a long gho, a type of traditional robe favoured by Bhutanese men.
For more than a thousand years, this tiny realm, wedged into mountainous folds between India and China, survived in splendid isolation. It remained closed to the outside world – both by geography and deliberate policy – until 1974, when foreign tourists were officially welcomed.
Two years earlier, when King Jigme Singye Wangchuck ascended the throne, an ambitious plan was set not only to improve living standards but to redefine the process of development. He decided the “wealth” of his nation would not be measured by economic growth, but instead by a concept known as Gross National Happiness.
More than 40 years later, three-quarters of the country is still forested, with 25 per cent designated protected areas –among the highest percentages in the world.
Tourism is growing, though strict limits on construction and a nightly, all-inclusive tourist tariff of a minimum US$40 (about A$56) per visitor means that the country avoids the visitor hoards that flock to neighbouring regions.
Before our trek to Paro Taktsang, I check in to the beautiful 29-room COMO Uma Paro, perched on a hill and designed with flared roofs and painted frescoes to resemble the fortress-like temples (dzongs) that dot the countryside.
With my steep pre-dawn climb in mind, I locate the restaurant and promptly order as much food as I can: ema datshi, a mix of smoky chilli peppers and melted yak milk cheese, and a fragrant platter of momo (dumplings) stuffed with wild mushrooms and more cheese.
There’s also a ceramic pot of indigenous firewater called ara, a throat-numbing beverage made from rice, maize, millet or wheat.
An hour’s drive from Paro is Thimphu, one of the world’s only capital cities where there are no traffic lights; cars are orchestrated by a man in a tight-fitting uniform with shiny gold buttons.
We drive around his colourful rotunda on the way to Tashichho Dzong, or the Fortress of Glorious Religion. Constructed in 1216 AD, the sprawling complex of whitewashed buildings with tiered golden roofs is still home to the throne room and offices of the handsome young king, Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck, the first son of Jigme Singye Wangchuck.
The dzong is within easy reach of Chagri Dorjeden, a working meditation centre set high on a hill. Another sweat-inducing but beautiful walk ensues through a forest of rhododendrons – Bhutan is home to more than 50 species – as well as cypress, orchids and oak, with prayer flags and occasional statues of Buddha along the way. We’re greeted by monks in maroon robes, circumambulating a hall, twirling prayer wheels as they go.
Driving east, the road curves through silvery spruce forests and gorges roaring with waterfalls. We pass longeyelashed cows, who have right of way here; Indian road workers squatting by fires; women in kira dresses loaded with firewood; and farmhouses with their painted wood lintels.
We stop briefly at the high Dochula Pass, a circular arrangement of 108 white chortens facing a line of snowcapped peaks.
From here, we descend in hairpins through forests of towering blue pine to the lush valley of Punakha.
The first thing you see of the former capital is its grand dzong, set at the confluence of two rivers and known as
the Palace of Great Happiness. There’s an atmosphere of calm throughout the complex, with a notable absence of music, voices or machinery.
It’s the same calm I find at COMO Uma Punakha, my luxurious retreat for the night. Modelled on a dzong, the low-slung, 11-room hideaway has an enviable outlook over terraced rice fields, the temple of Khamsum Yuley Namgay and powder-coated Himalayan peaks.
Even the silence has texture here. The pristine natural surroundings and unbroken silence soothe the soul. They offer me reason to pause, and that’s exactly what I do.
For the next day, the outdoor terrace becomes my temporary home – I barely move from this perch, gazing over the fields of emerald, allowing for the occasional distraction to graze on meals made using organic local produce: red rice, hand-ground buckwheat flour, apple cider vinegar, and handmoulded farm cheese.
The shrillness of the world beyond Bhutan’s borders is clearly yet to pierce this blanket of calm. And I wouldn’t want it any other way.
Amankora is a collection of five intimate lodges located throughout the Bhutanese countryside. Accommodations are beautifully designed with local handicrafts and rustic furnishings. aman.com
The COMO group has two luxe lodges in Bhutan, one in Paro and one in Punakha, both taking their design inspiration from the country’s ubiquitous dzongs. comohotels.com
While parts of Bhutan are mountainous and can experience cool temperatures and snow, the south of the country is sub-tropical and can be warm. This makes it a great year-round destination.
For clear skies and mild weather, visit in spring (March-May) and autumn (September-October) – the former season is also great for rhododendrons and festivals. If you come in summer (June-August) and winter (DecemberFebruary), you’ll not only avoid crowds but the high season prices also.
Tariff
The Bhutanese all-inclusive tariff is a minimum US$40 (about A$56) a day, depending on the season. This secures your entry to the country as well as a guide, driver, food, entry fees and three-star accommodation – you’ll pay more to stay at upscale properties such as Aman Resorts and COMO properties.
As most things are covered by your entry fee, you’ll only need money for drinks (expect to pay less than $1 for soft drinks), laundry, souvenirs and tips; for this, bring cash. The Bhutanese currency (ngultrum) is pegged to the Indian rupee.
DAY 1: Paro Valley to Thimphu Valley (1.5 hours)
After clearing immigration and customs, you will be greeted by your guide and driver at the airport and transferred to Bhutan’s capital Thimphu, viewing the spectacular countryside en route. Enjoy lunch, then spend the afternoon visiting Thimphu’s National Memorial Stupa, the weekend market or the Takin Preserve, which is home to Bhutan’s most unusual national mammal.
Stay: Le Meridien Hotel
DAY 2: Sightseeing in Thimphu
Start the day by visiting the famous Golden Buddha and Trashichho Dzong monastery as well as the Tara Lhaden Zhingkham Lhakhang temple. Enjoy lunch at a local restaurant and visit a few more of our recommended sites, such as Zorig Chusum, Institute of the 13 Arts & Crafts of Bhutan, National Library, Gagyel Lhundrup Weaving Centre and adjacent S. Bishwa art gallery. Leave time to wander along Thimphu’s main street, Norzin Lam. Note: Tuesday is a “dry day” in Bhutan when most bars in the city are closed.
Stay: Le Meridien Hotel
DAY 3: Thimphu to Phobjikha Valley (5 hours)
Meet your driver for your transfer east to the Phobjikha Valley. The drive will pass numerous historical sites and deliver a breathtaking panorama of the eastern Himalaya. Depending on the time of year, the views can vary from alpine snow (November to March) to a profusion of blossoms (March to May). Phobjikha is a glacial valley on the slopes of the Black Mountains and is one of the most beautiful open valleys in Bhutan. Your overnight accommodation is at Gangtey Lodge featuring 12 private farmhouse suites with stunning views and excellent hiking opportunities.
Stay: Gangtey Lodge
DAY 4: Sightseeing in Phobjikha Valley
While visiting Phobjikha, be sure to stop at the Black Crane nature centre and sacred Gangtey Monastery. Wander through the bustling village and hike the Gangtey Nature Trail. There are many other hikes available in this beautiful valley and your guide will advise you of the best options. At the lodge, soak up the scenery, ambience, spa and cuisine.
Stay: Gangtey Lodge
With a lodge and surrounding landscape as wonderful as these, relax with a soothing massage treatment or enjoy a bike ride through the valley. The lodge can provide you with recommendations for a wide range of special activities, including Longtey Hike (between three and five hours) and Tongphushing Trail, a beautiful walk through pine forests, farmland and villages.
Stay: Gangtey Lodge
Say goodbye to Phobjikha and depart for the Punakha Valley which holds the title as Bhutan’s winter capital due to its more temperate climate. On arrival, visit Chimi Lhakhang, a monastery built by Lama Drukpa Kunley, known locally as the Divine Madman and the Mad Monk. After lunch, enjoy a tour of the valley as well as a visit to the local convent. The COMO Uma luxury resort offers Bhutan’s best views of the eastern Himalaya range. Soak in the panoramas from your room, the restaurant and wide terrace.
Stay: COMO Uma Punakha
This morning, visit the dramatic Punakha Dzong, which formerly served as Bhutan’s seat of government and is still used as the winter residence of the Dratshang (Central Monk Body). Enjoy lunch at a local restaurant or a picnic overlooking the dzong and river. In the afternoon, we recommend a hike to Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten through fields of vegetables, rice paddies and tiny hamlets.
Stay: COMO Uma Punakha
Today, we recommend an excursion to the traditional villages of Nobgang and Talo. Nobgang is famous for being home to the four Queens of the fourth King (who are all sisters). Talo offers the opportunity to stroll the serene grounds and gardens of the local monastery. After lunch, unwind and enjoy the resort’s deluxe facilities.
Stay: COMO Uma Punakha
Leave from Punakha to your final destination of Paro Valley. Arrive in time for a late lunch and a tour of the major features in Paro, including Paro Dzong, with its cantilevered bridge, and Kyichu Lhakhang, one of Bhutan’s oldest and most beautiful temples.
Stay: Zhiwa Ling Heritage
Take a pilgrimage hike to Taktsang Monastery, famously known as Tiger’s Nest. All Bhutanese Buddhists attempt to make this pilgrimage at least once in their lives. Choose either the option of a 90-minute roundtrip hike to the elevated monastery viewpoint or the longer five-hour hike to the monastery proper. In the afternoon, wander along the main street to shop for traditional handmade crafts. Visit the National Museum for a collection of ancient Thangka paintings, textiles and other artifacts.
Stay: Zhiwa Ling Heritage
Leave early from the hotel to the airport for your onward flight.
To book a similar customised tour to Bhutan and for prices and further information, call Bhutan & Beyond on 1300 367 875 or visit bhutan.com.au
LUXURY TRAVEL MAGAZINE HAS PARTNERED WITH MTA TRAVEL SPECIALIST BHUTAN & BEYOND TO CREATE A BESPOKE ITINERARY OUTLINING THE BEST OF BHUTAN
Tiger´s Nest Monastery
LONG CONSIDERED THE WEEKEND playground of Melburnians searching for a true gourmet getaway, Lindenderry at Red Hill on the Mornington Peninsula now has even more to offer than just its elegant new look.
David Green has been appointed Executive Chef at the boutique retreat’s restaurant, The Dining Room, after 13 years at the helm of The Lakehouse in Daylesford, which was awarded two chef hats under his helm.
With the colourful food bowl that is the Red Hill farming region at his disposal, guests of The Dining Room can expect a menu that fully showcases Chef Green’s food philosophy: celebrating seasonal produce.
“That’s what good food is all about,” Green says. “Nature provides the menu, with each
season bringing a new selection of produce sourced from our local farms, forests and oceans. We celebrate its bounty while we can, whilst it is at its best and most flavoursome.”
Light and fresh dishes made from handselected, locally sourced ingredients will flaunt the Peninsula’s exceptional regional fare and exemplify Chef Green’s respect for the local farming community and the region’s best suppliers.
“We frequent the sites of local farmers and artisans, where we can smell the new vegetables warming under the sun in the garden beds and taste the new season’s delights. From these sensations, the menu is then drawn,” he says.
While the cuisine brings the Peninsula’s
produce inside and onto guests’ plates, The Dining Room’s new, warm design replete with floor-to-ceiling windows brings even more of the natural Australian environment, indoors.
Set amid 14 sprawling hectares of gardens and vines, the Hecker Guthrie-designed 40-room hotel is located minutes from coolclimate wineries, and with an awarded chef now leading its restaurant, Lindenderry has officially joined the ranks of Mornington Peninsula’s high-end hospitality scene.
For more information and reservations, visit lancemore.com.au/lindenderry
THREE EXCEPTIONAL LUXURY ISLAND RESORTS – AND A SPECTACULAR NEW GLAMPING CONCEPT –COMBINE TO CREATE MAGIC IN THE MALDIVES
Words by ANDREW CONWAY
Previous page: Amilla Fushi’s sleek ocean reef houses are the essence of luxury island living in the Maldives.
Below: Finolhu’s spectacular Beach Bubble delivers an unforgettable night of luxury under a canopy of stars.
Above and opposite: The adults-only island of Huvafen Fushi is a sophisticated Maldivian retreat, with newly minted overwater villas, gourmet cuisine and spa facilities.
It’s just before dawn and the sky is as black as squid ink. I’m lying in a four-poster bed, cocooned inside a giant plastic bubble on a tiny Maldivian island, and staring up at a canopy of luminous stars.
With the moon below the horizon, the sun yet to rise, and complete silence but for the occasional wave lapping on the shoreline, the scene is ethereal, almost otherworldly.
I’m about to drift back to sleep as another shooting star flashes across the sky, when something else – something magical – slowly drifts into view: a large object with wings and flashing red lights.
It’s too big, bright and slow to be a jumbo jet; and even in my drowsy, dream-like state, I dismiss fanciful thoughts of a UFO. No, this is surely NASA’s International Space Station in low orbit as it makes its silent but ever-watchful rounds of the planet.
Welcome to the Beach Bubble, a spectacular new ‘glamping’ concept – the first of its kind in the Maldives – set on Finolhu, a speck of a tropical island in Baa Atoll.
Nestled in a secluded spot on a 1.5-kilometre sandbank, far from the island’s luxury resort, the transparent bubble appears like a moon-craft as our traditional sailing dhoni approaches about an hour before sunset.
We’re accompanied by Shabeen, our resort ‘mojo agent’ (butler) and a chef, who will prepare cocktails and dinner before leaving us to spend the night entirely alone.
Camping? Think again. Our air-conditioned ‘tent’ comes with a king bed swathed in white sheer netting, an oversize wingback chair and footstool in vibrant turquoise, a turntable with vintage records, solid timber floors and a soft rug underfoot.
An adjoining bathroom, accessed via a zipper door, features a shower and toilet, fluffy white towels and robes, and everything you’d expect in a luxury guest room. And just in case you can’t leave civilisation behind – even for a night –there’s high-speed WiFi.
The only thing we have to remember is to close the entry door firmly before accessing the bubble, so as not to let out any of the air inflating the high-tech polyester dome.
After settling in, it’s time for sundowner cocktails, a gourmet three-course dinner served by candlelight at a chaise and table cut into the sandbank, and a nightcap as a crescent moon rises slowly overhead.
The night passes in a surreal sequence of sleep, satellites and shooting stars, until dawn breaks and we rise early to walk to the furthest point of the island, before Shabeen and his team return to serve breakfast at the water’s edge.
By 9am, with the morning sun beating down, the bubble is cleaned and serviced for the next guests, covered with a protective sheath, and we’re back on board the dhoni to return to the resort after a once-in-a-lifetime experience.
Launched just six days before our stay, the bubble is the brainchild of The Small Maldives Island Co (TSMIC), a relatively new and innovative resort company with strong Australian connections that manages luxe resorts – Finolhu and Amilla Fushi in Baa Atoll – and Huvafen Fushi just north of the capital, Malé.
Like many siblings, the three resorts have very different personalities: Huvafen Fushi is small, ultra-exclusive and adults-only, offering only 44 luxury overwater and island villas, a unique underwater spa, and a brand new super-luxe villa called The PlayPen. >>
Amilla Fushi has a chilled, contemporary ‘island home’ ambience with 67 sleek, white overwater villas, beach villas, tropical tree houses and luxury private residences, a signature spa, and a bazaar-style collection of beachfront dining venues.
The youngest and grooviest of the three resorts is Finolhu, a 30-minute boat ride from Amilla Fushi, designed as a fun and eclectic retro-chic resort with 125 overwater and beach villas and an Instagram-ready, toes-in-the-sand island setting.
The glam factor starts as soon as our late-evening flight arrives at Malé International Airport, where a Huvafen Fushi butler is waiting to escort us to a snazzy motorboat berthed at a neighbouring marina.
Within minutes, we’re skimming James Bond-style across the Indian Ocean under a cloudless night sky, a 30-minute journey culminating in what looks like a comet rocketing overhead and exploding in a flash of light. We take it as a good omen.
On arrival, we’re met by Nazeeh, our young thakuru (butler), who bypasses check-in formalities and whisks us directly to our overwater pool villa looking out to a mirror-still reef lagoon.
It’s past midnight by now (the island is an hour ahead of
Malé) and we’re a tad hungry, but Nazeeh is one step ahead with a basket of wraps and fruit, and a chilled bottle of Champagne which he lays on a table by the pool. We’ll sleep well tonight.
The next three days are spent in a paradisiacal cocoon, drifting from our villa to Celsius, the resort’s main waterfront restaurant, poolside UMBar, al fresco pizza bar and subterranean wine cellar Vinum, our bare feet covered with powdery white sand throughout.
Opened more than a decade ago, the resort has emerged rejuvenated from a recent year-long renovation of villa interiors and amenities, and its iconic spa, as well as the addition of a new restaurant and Grand Beach Pavilion.
The unique overwater/underwater spa’s additions include new treatment rooms, with picture windows looking out to a coral reef teeming with fish, a Vitalisation relaxation space and RAW cafe specialising in wellness foods.
The new dining venue, Feeling Koi, is sensational – serving modern izakaya-style Japanese dishes with a Latin twist – and complemented by two certified sake sommeliers.
The resort’s new Grand Beach Pavilion, The PlayPen, redefines luxury island living. The vast two-level romantic couple’s retreat combines New York loft-style and neo-Parisian design and décor with a full kitchen, pool deck and private sand garden overlooking the lagoon. At $17,000 per night, it’s for a very privileged few, but it’s a playful addition to the resort.
This is an adults-only (16 and over) resort island and feels very grown-up and sophisticated with its upscale dive and watersports centre, traditional hand-crafted Maldivian dhoni for romantic sunset cruises and sublime tropical setting.
Next stop: Amilla Fushi, requiring another speedboat trip back to Malé and a Trans Maldivian Airways seaplane ride to the more distant Baa Atoll – a breathtaking flight over the Indian Ocean splashed with tiny coral cays, reef shallows and impossibly blue water.
As our seaplane circles Amilla Fushi’s teardrop-shaped island, a long boardwalk of chic, white, flat-roofed overwater villas comes into view, a striking contrast to the beautiful but more traditional thatched villas at Huvafen Fushi. >>
Amilla Fushi takes the ‘island home’ concept to a new level with stylish lagoon and ocean pool villas, and an array of beachfront restaurants, cafés and spa options.
Finolhu’s 1 OAK Beach Club and lounge offer spectacular views of the main pool and sandbank and give this lively retro-chic resort a chilled vibe.
Whimsical touches referencing Finolhu’s Baa Atoll location are evident throughout the resort, along with chic villa interiors, alfresco dining venues and ocean-fresh seafood.
In fact, this resort is an altogether different world, billing itself as an ‘island home’ with a more contemporary residential look and feel extending from its necklace of ocean reef and lagoon houses to exquisite beach houses, elevated tree houses and expansive private residences.
The resort’s public spaces are arranged in three clusters: the central Baazaar with its myriad restaurants and bars; the Emperor Beach Club featuring the kids’ club, various stores, a wine cellar, artists’ studio and watersports centre, and excellent Javvu Spa on the island’s northeast shoreline – all within easy walking distance of each other.
With the stylish 1 OAK Lounge, Feeling Koi and Hub dive and snorkelling centre set on two jetties, a soccer pitch, and LUX tennis courts near the residences, the resort island has something to offer everyone from honeymoon couples to multi-generational families.
The vibe here is laid back, centred around the main pool and Baazaar complex, including various restaurants serving bistro, pizza, grill, Asian, Italian and wellness dishes, along with a fun fish-and-chip shop.
1 OAK Lounge is the perfect spot for a sundowner cocktail and Amilla Fushi’s Feeling Koi is even better than the one at Huvafen Fushi, if that’s possible.
The resort’s various luxe accommodations have a contemporary vibe, with open-plan living spaces, Moroccantiled bathrooms and outdoor showers, and overwater decks with steps down into the azure lagoon. Butlers here are known as katheebs and operate around the clock.
The eight private beachfront residences available for rent offer a chic villa aesthetic ideal for families or friends holidaying together, with large pools fronting a pristine beach.
The resort features numerous active and less strenuous water activities – our sundowner cruise delivered a classic Maldivian sunset – and the island’s clocks are set two hours ahead of Malé encouraging lazy mornings and extended evenings.
And so, to Finolhu – the youngest of TSMIC’s three island resorts, with a decidedly spirited, almost cheeky, personality that befits her ‘baby sister’ and Instagram-star status.
A 30-minute speedboat ride from Amilla Fushi, Finolhu turns up the fun factor with retro-chic styling throughout the resort – think 1960s California Dreaming meets Cirque du Soleil with pool parties, a classic American milk
bar, resident ‘mermaids’, stilt-walkers and fire-eaters –and the extraordinary new Beach Bubble that makes the island so unique.
The reality is nowhere near as kitsch as it sounds, and while my pool party days have long passed, I loved the resort’s light, quirky, carefree approach to life that’s focused on maximising the guest experience.
The overwater accommodations are a hybrid of its sibling islands with thatched roofs atop modern white villas, all offering sweeping lagoon or ocean views. The interiors are on trend with eye-catching wallpapers, sleek tiled and spa-like bathrooms, and indoor-outdoor living spaces.
Food is a major part of the Finolhu experience: casual dining in Baa Baa Beach Diner; Cantonese at Kanusan’s waterfront pavilion; North African in beachside Baahaa Grill; and chilled cocktails at 1 OAK Beach Club next to the pool.
The standout is the idyllic Fish & Crab Shack, perched on the island’s sliver of sandbank, accessible only by dhoni or on foot, and featuring a breezy bar and tables in the sand.
Arrive at noon, settle in for a five-hour seafood extravaganza washed down with a frothy cocktail and a bottle (or two) of chilled wine, and wait for the last dhoni to take you back to the resort.
The spa treatments at the Cove Club are as good as I’ve had anywhere (ask for Juliana, an expert Indonesian therapist) and our butler Shabeen is a model of efficiency.
Finolhu definitely has a youthful vibe, with an in-house DJ, live acts and pool parties, but if it all gets too much, you can retreat to your overwater villa in splendid isolation.
And if that still doesn’t cut it, book a memorable night in the Beach Bubble – just you, the moon and the International Space Station.
Singapore Airlines flies from Australia to Malé, via Singapore. singaporeair.com Rates at Huvafen Fushi start from US$1265 (about A$1770) per couple, per night; Amilla Fushi from US$1160 (about A$1620) per couple, per night; and Finolhu from US$1060 (about A$1480) per couple, per night. All rates are inclusive of breakfast and exclusive of taxes.
Finolhu’s ‘Dream Eclipse’ experience in the Beach Bubble, from sunset to sunrise, costs US$600 (about A$839) per night, including a private beach barbecue and breakfast.
For further information, rates and reservations, visit huvafenfushi.com, amilla.mv and finolhu.com. For more information on The Small Maldives Island Co, visit tsmic.mv
NESTLED IN THE HEART OF PROVENCE, THE LUBERON IS AN ENCHANTING LANDSCAPE OF HISTORIC HILLTOP VILLAGES, VERDANT VALLEYS AND ROMANTIC LUXURY RETREATS
Words by MADELIN TOMELTY
We’re in the South of France on the kind of balmy summer’s evening that demands an outfit that’s equal parts chic and carefree. For me, a strappy linen dress. For him, a crisp white linen shirt. Both of us, even hotter than the 28-degree air due to ironing out the deep creases in said linen. On our faces, smiles that say: “Is this place even real?” Around us, one of the most astonishingly beautiful settings we’ve ever experienced.
We are dining alfresco in one of France’s most alluring villages – the fortressed hamlet of Gordes in Provence that was, by some massive human feat, built into the rock face of a 340-metre-high hilltop in the Middle Ages.
The restaurant, aptly called La Citadelle, at one of Provence’s most renowned and luxurious hotels, La Bastide de Gordes, is a quaintly arranged collection of tables and chairs on a gravelled terrace, neatly tucked behind a wrought-iron balcony.
The restaurant has freshly ironed, parchment-white tablecloths and napkins, gold-trimmed china, waiters that are just the right amount of attentive, and no bad tables. Here, every diner has spectacular views handed to them on a platter – a plunging panorama of lush, verdant valley stretching out for kilometres and flanked in the distance by a low-lying mountain range.
There is a four-piece jazz band playing my favourite style of dinner music, and the ambience is so romantic, the moment so perfect, my childish instinct is to giggle, like the person who inappropriately laughs during a sad story.
To top it all off, it’s ‘magic hour’ and the sun is creating a monumental piece of art out of setting tonight, painting the sky in fairy-floss swirls and streaks, its pink hues mirroring the colour of the top-shelf Côtes de Provence rosé in our crystal glasses.
There are moments in life when words fail even those who write for a living, and this is one of them. Because this isn’t just Provence, this is the Luberon, and it’s undeniably one of the most beautiful places on the planet.
About an hour’s drive from the tourist town of Aix-en-Provence and just 45 minutes from Avignon, the Luberon is a 600-squarekilometre massif comprising three mountain ranges and a patchwork valley of vineyards and orchards in between. >>
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The idyllic hilltop village of Gordes in the Luberon.
This page: La Bastide de Gordes is widely considered the best hotel in the area, offering a pool, sun-dappled gardens and luxurious guest acccommodations.
Opposite page: La Citadelle at La Bastide de Gordes.
It’s also a living history book of walled Medieval hilltop hamlets; delectable gastronomy; charming markets; pretty lavender, sunflower and poppy fields; and, of course, that delicious, de rigueur blush-coloured rosé that’s perfect for languid summer evenings like this.
This is authentic Provence in glorious technicolour, and its most vivid pigments can be found in the ‘Golden Triangle’ –what many consider to be the beating heart of the Luberon.
Here you’ll find the picturesque villages of Bonnieux, Gordes, Goult, Lacoste, Oppède, Roussillon and Ménerbes, so if time is in your favour, settle in for a week and village-hop and longlunch to your heart’s content.
This is how holidays are done in the Luberon – just ask the savvy and sophisticated Parisian style set who have made this dreamy, unspoilt countryside their summer playground for more than half a century.
In the early 1990s, the region had an influx of tourists thanks to English author Peter Mayle’s bestselling book, A Year in Provence (1989), which documented his time living in Ménerbes, but mostly, this spectacular part of France has managed to fly under the radar to all but the ‘in-the-know’ few.
The majority of foreign visitors head instead to the wellknown Provence towns of Aix and Avignon or the crowded beaches of Nice, thereby missing the verdant dream that is the Luberon altogether.
Lucky for me, this is my second time to the secret hills, valleys and whimsical villages of the Luberon, and so it is not in the slightest by chance that I’ve wound up at La Bastide de Gordes.
This is a hotel that has been etched into my memory ever since first stumbling upon its castle-like form back in 2015, and this time around, I’ve hunted down a reservation in the exclusive 40-room retreat with all the fervour of a Gallic bloodhound.
You’d think, then, that all this mental hype over a hotel would set me up for utter disappointment, but you’d be wrong. La Bastide de Gordes is still the exquisite jewel in Gordes’ crown, and walking its labyrinthine halls is like being transported back in time.
Built on 16th-century ramparts that kept Gordes fortressed and safe during the turbulent Middle Ages, La Bastide de Gordes’ enchantment is a product not only of its elevated position and views, but its deep history, which I learn more about at every turn.
There isn’t a rough-and-bare stone wall in sight that isn’t adorned with antique paintings and remnants of Gordes’ Medieval heritage, and I’m utterly captivated by the magical ambience that makes me feel like a princess in my own castle.
Having undergone a €20 million (about A$32 million) refurbishment in 2015, the hotel features an unfathomable 4,000 pieces of art, furniture, trinkets, lights, rugs, tables, sculptures, candlesticks and ceramics, all of which were painstakingly sourced from antique dealers and auction houses throughout France, Italy and Switzerland.
Our oversized suite feels positively regal and fit for a wigwearing aristocrat, with printed fabrics typical of the region, >>
“La Citadelle is hard to beat for its magical panoramas. For the best and most romantic seat in the house, ask for the single round table, perched on a turret looking out over the valley.”
Gordes
Elevated 340 metres above sea level on a promontory of the Vaucluse ranges with sweeping views of Luberon valley, the walled village of Gordes is one of the Luberon’s most popular and an absolute must-see.
Bonnieux
Bonnieux is one of the largest – and most impressive – villages in the Luberon. Head here on a Friday to explore the town’s many boutiques and restaurants, its sprawling market, street art and a stunning Luberon vista from the hilltop 12th-century Gothic church across the Vaucluse plateau. There is also a path through the valley that leads from Bonnieux to Lacoste (about a 45-minute walk).
Lacoste
At the old mountain village of Lacoste, you can visit the famous 15thcentury castle that was once the residence of the controversial writer, Marquis de Sade, and is now owned by fashion designer Pierre Cardin. If you’re lucky enough to visit in July during the Festival d’Avignon, you can witness the world-class opera and concerts that take place here in the courtyard and quarry behind the château.
Menérbes
The setting of author Peter Mayle’s famous novel, A Year in Provence , Ménerbes is quiet and pretty with a residential feel. You’ll find a small selection of artisan shops, cafés and restaurants while a stroll through the charmingly uneven streets will take you uphill to the 16th-century citadel for yet another incredible view.
Roussillon
Roussillon is utterly unlike the other towns of the Luberon, with its red, ochre earth its defining characteristic. The town’s unique appearance makes it one of the more touristy villages and you’ll find plenty of artisan boutiques to while away the hours.
Joucas
The small, honey-coloured hilltop village of Joucas tends to be less visited than the Luberon’s other hamlets, but is worth a look for those sweeping valley views and some of the prettiest, hidden street corners in the region.
La Salle à Manger at La Bastide de Marie
The Dining Room at this charming hotel in the valley has a picturesque outdoor terrace with plenty of shade and views across the on-site vineyard. The food here focuses on fresh, Provençal produce and is a local favourite for lunch or dinner.
Pèir
La Bastide de Gordes’ signature, Michelin-starred restaurant is a treat worth every penny. Choose a-la-carte or go for the full five-course tasting menu for €155 (about AU$250) per head. Add matching wines for an extra €95 (about AU$155) per person and savour cuisine that pays tribute to the region’s produce and flavours. The dining room has just eight tables and is open Wednesday to Sunday, May to October, so be sure to book ahead.
La Citadelle
Another sensational restaurant at La Bastide de Gordes, La Citadelle is hard to beat for its magical views of the valley and impressive menu and wine list. The restaurant also offers a selection of light and healthy options for those wanting to stay on track with their health regime while travelling. For the best and most romantic seat in the house, ask for the single round table that juts out over the valley.
Le Carillon
Another Michelin-starred wonder, the unassuming Le Carillon is located in the small village of Goult and offers fantastic service and outstanding regional French cuisine.
Chez Philip
After exploring the heights and heat of the Luberon’s hilltop villages, a visit to Chez Philip in Fontaine de Vaucluse is quite literally a breath of fresh air. Its position practically on top of a fluorescent emerald green river makes it a memorable experience, with plenty of entertainment provided by the ducks swimming past. Go for lunch and order the plat du jour and a glass of rosé.
antique portraits on the walls, stately wood panelling and harmoniously matched antique carpets.
Gifts galore await on our sumptuous king size bed, including La Bastide de Gordes cotton pyjamas, an Hermés fragrance, and a generous toiletries bag filled with luxurious Sisley products from the 800-square-metre spa downstairs. But the best part of all? That view, of course.
Two antique, mullioned windows open to lush terraces adorned with old stone benches and water features, the hotel’s famous cerulean pool – arguably the best place to spend blazing summer days in all of Provence – and a panorama over the Alpilles mountains scattered with yew trees, vines and lavender as far as the eye can see.
But it’s some serious, if efficient, village-hopping that I’m here for, so after reluctantly peeling myself off my poolside chaise, it’s back in the car to explore.
With the nearby, lavender-laced Abbey de Sénanque a photogenic pit-stop on the way, I make a beeline for my favourite villages in the Luberon: the cobblestoned towns of Menérbes and Bonnieux. Aside from the fact that I can’t help but enjoy the French-ness I feel when I say the latter’s name (“I’m just off to Bon-yer, mon cheri!”), Bonnieux is an impressive, bustling village on the larger side with an array of charming boutiques and those ubiquitous valley views.
On Fridays, the village holds a sprawling market typical of
the region, and meandering through the colourful streets is an exercise in restraint. There’s the comforting aroma of freshly baked bread, the mouth-watering hit of pungent cheese and saucisson, and the spicy notes of that delicious regional sweet treat I fell in love with on my first trip – calisson.
“Ha! I can’t get this back home!” I triumphantly say to my partner, who has been reminding me at every stall that in fact, you can buy bread, cheese and salami in Australia. But I seem to win this particular battle, and by the time we get to the smaller and more residential-feeling Menérbes the next day, I’m feeling rather at home in the Luberon.
I’m bouncing on my heels as I traverse the village’s uneven, hilly paths, forming a fantastical plan in my head to move to the town for a few months next year. By the time I pass the village’s boulangerie I’m fancying myself quite the local and nod in recognition at a local woman, who appears to clutch her baguette more tightly in response.
I’m picturing leisurely coffee and pain-au-chocolat mornings, followed by afternoons spent exploring whether I do, in fact, have a talent for oil painting like Provence’s iconic artists Vincent van Gogh and Paul Cézanne, when my appetite brings my fantasy to an abrupt end.
We drive down the hill from Menérbes for lunch at the charming hotel, La Bastide de Marie. Set in the valley with its picturesque-beyond-words outdoor restaurant, we take a seat
in the terrace and look out to another brilliant, blue-sky day.
Three courses and two glasses of rosé later and I realise I’m having another one of those surreal moments. In front of us, rows of grapevines. To our right, the restaurant’s chef picks sprigs of marjoram from the herb garden. All around us, plane and lime trees, shimmying to the rhythm of the breeze.
Most of our fellow diners have already left to continue their village-hopping for the day, but we decide to stay a while – you really shouldn’t rush things in the Luberon. After all, this is the French countryside at its best, rosé-tinted glasses or not.
Explore more of Provence and other regions of France at luxurytravelmag.com.au
This page: The gardens at La Bastide de Marie; a boutique in Goult.
Opposite page: The town of Fontaine de Vaucluse; a quaint village boulangerie.
To reach the Luberon, either fly into Avignon, or from Paris, board the TGV (express train) to Avignon station. There is practically no public transport in the Luberon and the only way to explore the region is by car, which you can hire at both Avignon airport and the TGV station. The Luberon is about a 30-minute drive from the airport, or 45 minutes from the station. If visiting in summer, be sure to pre-book your car.
Etihad Airways operates daily flights between Sydney and Abu Dhabi, with connecting flights to Paris. For more information, fares and bookings, visit etihad.com . For further details on the Luberon, Provence and France, visit france.fr or atout-france.fr
EXOTIC WILDLIFE, ANCIENT ABORIGINAL CULTURE AND A PRISTINE WILDERNESS REVEAL THEIR SECRETS ON A LUXURY ROAD TRIP AROUND AUSTRALIA’S TOP END
Words by ANDREW CONWAY
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Kakadu’s fragile yet vast wetlands are a utopian wilderness, with rugged outcrops such as Nourlangie home to outstanding Aboriginal rock art.
This page: Abundant birdlife and saltwater crocodiles are the star turns of a spectacular tour by road and boat in Australia’s Top End.
Our guide, Connie Cupitt, is waiting for us with a beaming smile and a handshake as firm as a drover’s mate. “Welcome to Corroboree Billabong,” she says, as we board our safari-style cruise boat for a tour of the Mary River Wetlands.
Her well-worn Akubra, forest-green shirt, denim shorts, sturdy shoes and tanned skin suggest a no-nonsense, incharge personality, and she wastes no time outlining her boat captain’s rules.
“Lifejackets are at the front of the vessel, no standing while the boat is moving, no sudden movements or loud talking when we’re up close to the riverbank, and your arms in the boat at all times,” she says. “Even when you’re pointing at something.”
She is, of course, deadly serious and rightly so. The impossibly lush Mary River Wetlands may look like a pristine and exquisite Garden of Eden, but this vast maze of low-lying waterways and floodplains is home to the world’s largest concentration of saltwater crocodiles – very hungry saltwater crocodiles – and Connie is not one to mess with them.
Located about 100 kilometres southeast of Darwin, these fragile wetlands play a crucial role in sustaining Australia’s unique bird population. More than 280 species reside in, or migrate through, the area, its billabongs flanked by tropical woodlands and covered with floating carpets of pink sacred lotus lilies and yellow-white water lilies.
Within minutes of drifting along the river, we’ve spotted jabirus, brolgas, egrets, herons, kites, spoonbills, terns, cormorants, kingfishers and magpie geese. Not one, but two pairs of nesting sea eagles have swooped over our boat – no doubt eyeing any fish surfacing in our wake – with Connie referencing the birds by name as if they’re her children.
A little further along, the ‘salties’ start appearing – at first relatively small, immature and solitary, but quickly growing in size and number to the point our heads are turning rapidly from left bank to right as we try to absorb this living David Attenborough documentary.
Connie gives us a lesson in bush-tucker survival, pulling fistsize pods from banks of lotus lilies fluttering in the breeze and offering us a taste of the bittersweet and moisture-filled seeds. For 90 minutes, we’re captivated by her infectious enthusiasm for this monumental but delicate landscape, and we’re alone but for the birds, crocs and occasional passing barramundi.
Our memorable morning wetlands cruise is on the second day of a five-day ‘Kakadu’s Ancients Secrets’ road trip adventure by leading luxury Australian tour company Inspiring Journeys. Our round-trip adventure from Darwin covers about 1600 kilometres of the best the Top End has to offer, taking in an array of outstanding natural and cultural landmarks: Litchfield National Park, Marrakai Track, Mary River Wetlands, ancient Aboriginal artworks at Ubirr and Nourlangie, an optional flight over Kakadu National Park and neighbouring Arnhem Land, Nitmiluk National Park, and the primordial beauty of Katherine Gorge. >>
“Our round-trip adventure from Darwin covers about 1600 kilometres of the best the Top End has to offer, taking in an array of outstanding natural and cultural landmarks: Litchfield National Park, Marrakai Track, Mary River Wetlands and the primordial beauty of Katherine Gorge.”
Along the way, we swim under waterfalls cascading into serene rock pools, watch fiery sunsets from rugged escarpments, view rock art dating back tens of thousands of years, wallow in mineral-rich natural hot springs, learn about the mythical spirits of Aboriginal ‘Dreamtime’ stories, try our hand at the fine art of rarrk painting, and meet a cast of Top End characters appear to have stepped straight out of Crocodile Dundee
My fellow adventurers are a friendly and easy-going group of 14 like-minded travellers aged in their 50s, 60s and 70s – all from various parts of Australia and New Zealand – who bond quickly and make the journey a fun and enjoyable experience.
Our vehicle is a solid but comfortable and fully air-conditioned Mercedes-Benz 4WD truck, fitted with 22 aircraft-style recliner seats upholstered in tan leather, oversize windows for viewing the passing scenery, a compact fridge stuffed with cool drinks and sweet treats, and a restroom at the rear.
The entire trip is managed seamlessly and efficiently by our calm, personable, capable and extremely knowledgeable driver-guide, Gordon Smith, who takes care of every detail from luggage to picnic lunches and tour scheduling, all the while providing just the right amount of informed commentary –along with some Aussie larrikin banter – to keep us amused and entertained on the sometimes long stretches of driving.
And cast aside any notions of camping. Our accommodations include two excellent luxury lodges in sublime wilderness settings – along with a larger hotel of dubious quality (more on this later) – offering very welcome respite after long, hot and dusty days of road touring, sightseeing and exploring.
Our trip departs Darwin on a cloudless Sunday morning in August – the height of the Northern Territory ‘dry season’ (May to October) and the best time to explore the Top End. With average temperatures ranging from 21 to 32 degrees and low humidity, warm, dry sunny days give way to cool, crisp and clear nights, invariably under an ink-black canopy of flickering stars.
After a quick tour of central Darwin, we head south for the Finniss River and Litchfield National Park, the city’s urban sprawl soon giving way to savannah woodlands, mangroves, sand palms and stringybarks.
As the temperature climbs, we stop at scenic Florence Falls and Wangi Falls, where we swim in refreshing freshwater pools surrounded by tropical monsoon rainforest. After a picnic lunch in the small town of Batchelor, we head cross-country on the unsealed Marrakai Track through vast cattle stations and rugged backcountry to the Mary River region.
Our first night is at Wildman Wilderness Lodge, a wonderful luxury retreat offering glamping-style permanent safari tent and suite accommodations, set on a wide tree-lined floodplain dotted with termite mounds and wallabies grazing beside the private airstrip.
There’s just time for a cool dip in the lodge’s plunge pool before sundowner cocktails by the fire pit – as the sky turns
from cerulean blue to pale gold and rose pink before a final flourish of vermillion – and a gourmet three-course dinner in the lodge’s chic and contemporary dining room.
After a leisurely breakfast, we’re back on the Arnhem Highway heading to Corroboree Billabong and our memorable river cruise, before arriving at the entrance to Kakadu –arguably the jewel in the crown of Australia’s national parks –and the Holy Grail of our road trip.
Kakadu covers almost 20,000 square kilometers, an area the size of Belgium, and was designated a national park in three stages in 1981, 1987 – the same year it gained UNESCO World Heritage List status – and finally in 1992.
It’s one of the very few places honoured both for its outstanding natural values and as a living cultural landscape: Aboriginal people have inhabited Kakadu continuously for more than 65,000 years, dating back to before the last ice age.
The name Kakadu comes from an Aboriginal language called Gagudju, one of the languages spoken in the area at the beginning of the 20th-century, and at least three languages –Kunwinjku in the north, Gundjeihmi in the central region and Jawoyn in the south – are still spoken today.
The park’s unique biodiversity, natural beauty and variety of landforms, habitats and wildlife are staggering. Kakadu is home to 68 mammal species, almost one-fifth of Australia’s total, more than 120 reptiles, 26 frogs, 300 tidal and freshwater fish species, 2,000 different plants, and more than 10,000 species of insects.
Some of these species are either threatened or endangered, many are found nowhere else in the world, and there are still others yet to be discovered.
The park comprises seven distinct regions – South Alligator, Jabiru, East Alligator, Nourlangie, Yellow Water, Jim Jim and Twin Falls, and Mary River – a sweeping landscape of savannah woodlands, monsoon vine forests, hills and ridges, stone country, tidal flats, and exquisite floodplains, rivers and billabongs – its accessibility entirely dependent on the weather and type of vehicle you are travelling in.
And Kakadu doesn’t give a flying frog for any white fella’s four seasons. The park’s Bininj and Mungguy people recognise six different seasons when the landscapes undergo dramatic changes driven largely by the weather. >>
“On the morning of day three, we all decide to book the optional Kakadu Air scenic flight, delivering a breathtaking bird’s-eye view of the park’s rivers, waterfalls, rock formations and escarpments as well as the vast, inhospitable yet hauntingly beautiful expanse of Arnhem Land.”
Our tour takes in five of the seven regions – Jim Jim and Twin Falls are too far to include in our timeframe – but our itinerary features a treasure trove of natural and cultural wonders.
The second half of day two features the exquisite Mamukala Wetlands and a tour of Ubirr’s ancient Aboriginal rock, culminating in a climb to the top of the rugged Nadab Lookout for a stunning sunset over the floodplains.
Our overnight stay in nearby Jabiru is disappointing. The widely hyped Mercure Kakadu Crocodile Hotel – designed in the shape of a croc – has seen better days, but the buffet dinner is plentiful and the beer chilled, so we retire to bed and overlook the outdated rooms and facilities.
Things improve dramatically on day three when we all decide to book the optional Kakadu Air scenic flight, delivering a breathtaking bird’s-eye view of the park’s rivers, waterfalls, rock formations and escarpments as well as the vast, inhospitable yet hauntingly beautiful expanse of Arnhem Land.
Next stop, Nourlangie and its ancient rock art galleries, to Namarrgon or Lightning Man, the creation ancestor responsible for the dramatic electrical storms on the Arnhem plateau.
A broken hose clamp as we’re en route to Gunlom Falls forces an unscheduled stop at Warradjan Cultural Centre – as luck would have it, one of the best Aboriginal arts and crafts galleries in the park – but Smith is on the case and gets us back on the road in time to reach Nitmiluk National Park by sundown.
Our home for the next two nights is Cicada Lodge, another beautiful luxury bushland retreat, set close to the Katherine River system. All 18 rooms are a study in contemporary bush chic with indigenous artworks, rich stone colours and louvered doors opening to private decks and wilderness beyond.
The lodge’s centrepiece is its stylish restaurant and pool deck, the ideal place to chill after a long day on the road, and the service is faultless from your first welcome glass of Champagne to the innovative menus designed around modern Australian food with a regional twist – think bush bananas, freshwater prawns and native herbs.
Day four heralds a visit to Top Didj, an engaging Aboriginal cultural centre where Manuel Pamkal weaves his special brand of magic on the didgeridoo, teaching us the fine art of rarrk painting, using a special brush from a reed called julk, and showing us how to throw a spear (we all fail miserably).
Lunch is spent wallowing in shallow natural hot springs, but the best is definitely saved until last. Following a late-afternoon cruise taking us deep into the prehistoric chasms of Katherine Gorge, our boat is transformed into a white-tablecloth and candlelit dinner cruise just as the sun is setting. Most of our group rate the unforgettable evening as the highlight of the trip.
Our final day is spent along the Stuart Highway visiting Edith Falls, paying our respects at the very moving Adelaide River War Cemetery, and enjoying a cold beer with a not very moving (read: stuffed) buffalo called Charlie at the Adelaide River Hotel.
The star buffalo in Crocodile Dundee, Charlie is now at rest on the bar of the knockabout pub – the only piece of Australian kitsch on our entire road trip.
As Darwin appears on the horizon, I’m sad to leave behind Kakadu’s pristine wilderness for the urban concrete jungle and, for a fleeting moment, I wonder how the crocs in Corroboree Billabong are doing.
Qantas flies daily from several capital cities to Darwin. For fares and bookings, visit qantas.com . Inspiring Journeys’ five-day ‘Kakadu’s Ancient Secrets’ tour costs from A$3250 per person, twin-share (land only). The trip requires overnight stays in Darwin at each end; Mantra on the Esplanade offers a central and convenient location. For more information and bookings, visit inspiringjourneys.com
Benin, Africa 2017
INTIMATE
In partnership with SILVERSEA CRUISES
It is perhaps the most famous photograph ever taken: the spellbinding image of 12-year-old refugee Sharbat Gula and her piercing green eyes, who became a global icon when she appeared on the June 1985 cover of National Geographic and became known as the ‘Afghan Girl.’
The photographer? Steve McCurry, who found Gula in a Pakistan refugee camp and framed the portrait that fired the imaginations of millions of people worldwide.
Today, the multi-award-winning photographer continues to travel to the most fascinating and remote destinations on the planet for leading news organisations, magazines and exclusive clients.
His latest partnership with Silversea Cruises is his passport to the line’s 900 voyages of discovery from the Arctic to the Galapagos Islands, and this unique photographic essay is a personal and intimate showcase of his global explorations.
“A Silversea cruise is about exploring the world,” says McCurry. “It’s about curiosity, celebrating different cultures, and seeing and appreciating the world in transition because it changes so rapidly.
“We are all explorers,” he adds. “It doesn’t matter how far you go, or how often or how long you travel for, we do it because every step we take, our souls become larger, richer and more defined. Life wouldn’t be life without a little curiosity. The world is full of opportunities, we just have to go out and take them.”
Mongolia 2018
Easter Island, Chile 2018
Benin, Africa 2017
Rajasthan, India 2010
Togo, Africa 2017
Flight Number: AA73 Boeing 787-9
Dreamliner / Class: Business Class / Seat: 3A / Flight time: 13.5 hours / Reviewed by: Steve Hui
American Airlines is undergoing a $200 million investment in the luxury travel experience and it shows. The redesigned Business Class cabin is spacious and decorated in soothing greys, with the feel of the interior of a luxury car. Seats are configured 1-2-1 so that each passenger is afforded direct aisle access. The seats by the window feel particularly private.
My window seat feels almost throne-like, very generous in size, with a large armrest and plenty of compartments for all the things I travel with; books, notebooks, beauty products, medicine, devices and shawls. There are four separate storage compartments, roomy enough for everything. On the 787-9 there are 30 fully lie-flat seats, enhanced by products such as a mattress at sleep time, from American sleep experts Casper. American is one of the airlines that thoughtfully provide pyjamas and slippers and their stylish, thick cotton pyjama top with side pockets are as comfortable as Qantas’s iconic ‘roo’ pyjamas. The amenities are by cult New York pharmacy C.O. Bigelow Apothecaries and the amenities bag, a nylon satchel from Cole Haan, is one of the most practical I’ve received. I loved the red and black striped cotton socks and still wear them.
The crew is cheery and efficient, handing out hot towels with drinks and snacks as soon as I’m seated. Dinner orders are taken before departure, which means the meal service is prompt. When a passenger’s phone alarm goes off mid-flight, an attendant is relentless in tracking it down and turning it off.
The Food
American has a partnership with celebrity chef Sean Connolly, who has designed the menus for the airline’s premium cabins on routes from Sydney and Auckland to the U.S. Canapés, including chilli-seared shrimp, are served before dinner, followed by a choice of grilled beef fillet, chicken tikka masala, lobster ravioli or asiago-stuffed gnocchi with pesto. Dessert is a choice of Häagen-Dazs ice cream, mixed berry pavlova or a selection of cheeses. Mid-flight snacks include an antipasto plate and Wagyu beef sliders as well as white cheddar popcorn and chocolates. Breakfast kicks off with a peaches-and-cream smoothie, fresh seasonal fruit and a pain au chocolat, from the continental breakfast menu, but there is also a traditional American breakfast for those with larger appetites. Champagne served throughout the flight is a Moutard Brut Grande Cuvee and wines included a chardonnay from Chile, a cabernet from Mendoza and port from Portugal.
Wi-Fi, seatback entertainment, power ports and USB ports are available at every seat in all classes on the 787-9. Each Business Class seat has a cinematic large-screen touch monitor offering an extensive collection of latest-release movies, live sport, games, TV shows and box sets. And, unlike some Business Class seats, the controls are easy to use.
The almost 14-hour flight seems too short with all the entertainment at my fingertips and the roomy, comfortable seat. American recently opened its new Flagship Lounge at
LAX Airport, which also offers Flagship First Dining. It’s a vast improvement on the old lounge, with some great food and drink options and an enhanced space for relaxing. With the opening of Flagship First Dining, American’s First Class and celebrity customers can now enjoy a sit-down meal before boarding their flights – the first product of its kind at LAX. Although my Business Class ticket didn’t qualify me for this experience, I managed to have a glimpse of the lounge and taste some of the food on offer. It’s a lovely space with delicious, healthy eating options.
Baggage: First Class and Business Class allows two complimentary checked 32-kilogram bags. Loyalty program: AAdvantage, part of the oneworld alliance.
WiFi: Available to purchase on selected flights. Amenities kit: Cole Haan and C.O. Bigelow Apothecaries skincare and lifestyle amenity kit, and a Casper sleep set.
Size: 69 square metres / Price: From US$1799 (A$2490) per night / Reviewed by Andrea Collins / Details: marriott.com
The Hotel
JW Marriott Essex House New York is one of New York’s most celebrated hotels. For more than 80 years, guests have enjoyed the superb location on Central Park South. The hotel completed a massive US$38 million transformation of its 426 guest rooms, 101 suites and hallways in 2017. Dramatically redesigned to interpret a new and modern aesthetic, the hotel’s structure and the strong lines of its Art Déco heritage have been redefined, while preserving landmark features such as the ornate gilded doors, rich wood panelling in the public areas and Beaux-Arts salon that has hosted numerous dignitaries over the years. It is the first JW Marriott brand hotel in New York City.
The Suite Corner Suite 3201 has one of the most iconic views imaginable, straight across Central Park, from the 32nd floor, with Fifth Avenue, the imposing buildings of Central Park West and the Wollman Rink framed in the windows of the large living area and king-size bedroom. Just as fascinating are the views of the terraces on the neighbouring 1920s apartment building – giving me a bad case of residential envy.
The Locale
What more do you need? Fifth Avenue, Columbus Circle, Broadway, Lincoln Center, Upper East and West sides, Madison Avenue and the great Midtown shopping emporia are all within walking distance, and Central Park is just across the road. Strolling through the world’s most famous park provides endless opportunities to see New Yorkers in a natural setting. If it’s snowing, join in winter sports such as ice-skating or tobogganing or just sit on a cushioned chaise in the warmth and marvel at the winter wonderland. All seasons are beautiful.
The Look and Feel
The hotel has undergone a major transformation, which pays respect to its marvellous heritage but also glams it up considerably. The mood is residential, with art books and a big sectional sofa in the living area
piled with lots of cushions. It feels spacious, even though the architects had to keep the original landmark features, such as window size and ceiling heights. Much of this is due to the choice of fabrics and carpet, toned in sophisticated silvers, charcoals and lighter greys, and the striking striped wallpaper. There’s a wide hallway, closet, marble bathroom and powder room. Large flat-screen TVs can also stream your Hulu and Netflix service. A room-length black lacquer table in the living area works well as a desk and a bar.
The Food
Southgate Bar & Restaurant on Central Park South has a full American menu and is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. The restaurant was originally designed by Tony Chi; the hotel has left much of his design intact, with a wall of beautiful cut mirrors and an opposite wall of dozens of wine bottles enclosed in glass. A “Herban Garden” at the entrance echoes the hotel’s outdoor surroundings in Central Park. All suite guests also have access to the lobby level Executive Lounge, which serves snacks and buffet meals around the clock, plus an honour bar (wine, beers, spirits)
along with canapés Sunday to Thursday. The lounge was a disappointment, however, as the complimentary beverages were surprisingly limited (there’s a charge for alcohol – $14 for a fairly ordinary pinot noir) and the room had the feel of a cafeteria, with TV sports blaring. Better to have cocktails in your elegant suite.
While the hotel does not have a formal spa, there are two private massage rooms within the fitness centre. The hotel offers services from PRIMP Spa, a company that provides a variety of services such as massage, facials, private workouts with a trainer, hair and make-up, and manicures and pedicures. These appointments can be booked through the hotel. In-room treatments in a Park View Suite are both private and indulgent.
I appreciated the thoughtfulness of placing a chaise sofa in the window of the master bedroom. It was wonderful to snuggle up on it and contemplate the dreamy outlook, especially when a late winter storm dumped heavy drifts of snow on Central Park.
Size: 34 square metres / Price: From about A$680 per night / Reviewed by Kelly Allen / Details: mandarinoriental.com
This elegant city retreat, with its prime position on Singapore’s Marina Bay waterfront, appeals to both business and leisure travellers. It offers everything the business executive might need, but is close to several tourist hot spots. Standing under the 15-metre-long crystal chandelier in the soaring atrium lobby, you can look up and see the shape of a large oriental fan, the hotel’s signature symbol. There are 527 rooms and suites with views across the bay, city or ocean, and the service is legendary. The staff are always welcoming, friendly and they go above and beyond.
With unobstructed views over the bay, my Club Marina Bay Room was the perfect spot to watch the nightly laser light show on the water. The earthy colour scheme of olive green, cream, deep browns and burnt orange with timber accents on the wall was calming and highlighted the spectacular view outside. Top marks for the bed and luxury linens. There is a comfortable chair and ottoman and a timber desk in front of the window. The ensuite, though on the smaller side, had a glass wall allowing natural light in so it didn’t feel cramped. Access to the newly renovated Oriental Club on the 19th floor is a nice perk.
Across the street from the bay, the Mandarin Oriental is close to several attractions. From the hotel, you can walk to the Singapore Flyer (Ferris wheel), the National Gallery, shopping at Marina Bay Sands and the Gardens by the Bay nature park. There are dozens of dining options close by and public transport is a breeze with two train stations about a 10-minute walk away.
The fan-shaped hotel is designed by John Portman and while the lobby feels a tad moody with its dark timber and deep
burgundy finishes, the guest rooms are full of natural light and the rooftop pool area is one of the best I’ve seen in an urban hotel setting. The 25-metre pool looks out over the city skyline and is beautifully landscaped with lush green gardens, fountains, private cabanas, semi-submerged pool lounges and a bubble-jet kids pool. It’s a great spot to cool down when you need a break from exploring in the heat of the city, and if you are staying mid-week you are likely to have the place to yourself.
There are seven dining options, from casual lobster rolls by the pool to contemporary Japanese at Teppan-Ya or a steak from Morton’s steakhouse. The extensive breakfast buffet at Melt takes up three large rooms and has everything from Singaporean specialties to delicious house-made roti,
spicy curries, freshly baked pastries, custom-blended juices and of course eggs, waffles and pancakes all made to order. There is both indoor and outdoor garden seating.
The small spa has six spa suites, two couples’ rooms, a communal relaxation room and a manicure and pedicure area. Treatments can be customised and the menu also features great options just for men like the Alpha Male, a three-hour experience including a private steam, exfoliating body treatment, deep massage and facial.
As a tea drinker, I always enjoy the welcome tea basket on arrival. The specially insulated basket keeps the pot of signature tea hot for hours – always a great start to my stay.
Size: 84 square metres / Price: From about A$2254 per night / Reviewed by Scott Venturelli / Details: fairmont.com
This ultra-modern Downtown hotel showcases the inherent beauty of the Pacific Rim with its unobstructed mountain and harbour views. There are 367 guestrooms, including 47 suites. Impressive before you even step inside, the exterior at first appears to be a textural wall finish but then you see the image of trees on perforated stainless steel. The teak bridge at the entrance is flanked by two ponds and welcomes you into the heart of the hotel. The milliondollar art collection is extensive throughout the hotel, and a 35-minute, self-guided podcast tour can be enjoyed from 7am to 7pm.
The Fairmont Gold Owner’s Suite Collection is the company’s newest choice of luxury suites, featuring 10 stunning 84-square-metre suites with concierge service, private lounge, courtesy BMW car service, complimentary breakfast and evening canapés. My suite on the seventh floor had a wall of floor-to-ceiling windows looking out to the mountains, a lounge room with original artwork and designer furniture, and my favorite feature – the turntable and vinyl collection. Perhaps they took a lucky guess and used my age to pick out some tunes: The Eagles, Bob Dylan, Neil Young and Fleetwood Mac, to name a few. There are two large marble bathrooms, one
with a large soaking tub and a TV embedded into the mirror with Bose surround sound. The large bedroom has a king-size canopy bed, lounge chair facing the beautiful view and a large walk-in closet.
Located on the edge of Coal Harbour, a block from Vancouver’s main cruise ship terminal, the hotel couldn’t be any easier if you’re cruising to or from the city. It’s also a short walk to Gastown, the historic district where you will find art galleries, chic restaurants and funky cafes and bars. Around the corner is Robson Street, home to luxury retailers Gucci, Tiffany & Co., Louis Vuitton and Hermès. If you love the outdoors, take one of the hotel’s BMW e-bikes for a spin around Stanley Park. The 400-hectare urban oasis is a short ride away and has beaches, hiking trails, totem poles and a lighthouse.
Architect James Cheng created this 45-storey, natural light-filled space, one of the largest buildings in Downtown Vancouver. Inside the lobby, the white marble floors, grand staircase, walnut walls and six-metre granite fireplace are a stunning visual. The lobby lounge is a great place to hang out with its welcoming vibe and swanky handcrafted white Fazioli
piano. On the hotel’s rooftop, lush palm trees, fire pits and cabanas surrounding the spacious pool deck make you forget you’re in the middle of a major city.
One of the highlights of my stay is the fivecourse tasting menu with matching wines at Botanist restaurant. Named Vancouver’s best new restaurant, Botanist is driven by executive chef Hector Laguna who showcases the abundance of British Columbia’s produce from seafood and garden-fresh greens. We dine on local spot prawns, lobster tail in a “veil” of pasta, halibut with garlic cream and a 40-day dry-aged strip loin steak. The wine list is extensive and will satisfy even the pickiest enthusiast. A thoughtful touch is the wrapped and freshly baked shortbread biscuit you’re presented with at the end of the meal, a family recipe from Laguna’s grandmother.
Willow Stream Spa features indoor and outdoor relaxation lounges. There are nine treatment rooms, a nail salon, experiential shower, large marble steam room and a fitness centre with movement studio. French doors lead to a landscaped rooftop terrace with Jacuzzi, infra-red sauna, loungers and several fire pits. My spa therapist, Sarah, gives me a sleep-inducing full body massage, much needed after the 14-hour flight from Sydney. The massage table is heated and I am draped in a wonderfully soft, fluffy white doona – no skimpy sheets here!
Where to begin? The Fairmont excels in special touches, from the BMW bikes (with a “bike butler” to give you a customised itinerary); the iPads in every room (with access to more reading material than you could ever get through); the self-guided art podcast; and, of course, the fabulous vinyl collection. The Fairmont Gold Club was a great place for breakfast, and did I mention music superstar P!nk and her family were sitting next to us two mornings in a row?
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