Luxury Travel Magazine - Issue 77

PIONEERS OF LUXURY AFRICAN SAFARIS

Handcrafted Private & Small Group Journeys

Abercrombie & Kent pioneered luxury tented and photographic safaris in East Africa in the early 1960s, and has remained the benchmark for quality and adventure on the continent in the many decades since. Today, we operate dozens of local o ces, luxury camps, conservation and community development projects throughout Sub-Saharan Africa, with experts on the ground to serve the world’s most discerning and enlightened travellers in South Africa, Botswana, Namibia, Zimbabwe, Zambia, Mozambique, Tanzania, Rwanda, Kenya, Uganda and Ethiopia. Whether you’re tracking the Big Five in the Okavango Delta, climbing Mt Kilimanjaro, trekking to a remote gorilla community, chasing the Great Migration across the Serengeti, or on another bespoke cultural and wildlife experience anywhere in Africa, an A&K luxury safari is quite simply the greatest outdoor adventure holiday you will ever have. Act now to secure the finest properties, the most knowledgeable guides and the best game-viewing experiences on earth.

You’re invited to a new era of immersive luxur y in the hear t of the Great Bar rier Reef Hayman Island by InterContinental ® is an idyllic destination of privacy and pampering, where diving the secrets of the Whitsunday Islands, relaxing by Hayman’s® iconic pool, indulging in culinar y ar tistr y and holistic spa treatments are just a few of the experiences waiting for you

Be the first to experience Australia’s iconic private island resor t reimagined from 1 July 2019, with 25% of f your stay for a ver y limited time.

To lear n more about this exclusive opening of fer visit intercontinental com/hayman island, email hayman.reser vations@ihg.com or call 1800 007 697. Conditions

Sanctuary Olonana

Komodo

Regent Seven Seas

Belmond Alouette

Photo Essay

Autumn at Lake House...

2 Chefs Hats

The Australian Hot 50 Restaurants

Australia’s Regional Hotel of the Year

Australia’s Wine List Hall of Fame

Australia’s Best Food & Wine Experience

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THE MOST HIGHLY ANTICIPATED HOTEL OPENINGS OF 2019

From immersive African safaris to unique, isolated beachside havens, here is our mega-list of the hotel openings we are most excited about in 2019… luxurytravelmag.com.au/article/the-most-highly-anticipated-hotelopenings-of-2019

5 Amazing Train Journeys to Experience This Year

From the diverse landscapes of Down Under to the lush, mountainous terrain of Switzerland, here are five impressive rail journeys to add to your bucket list this year. All aboard!

luxurytravelmag.com.au/article/5-amazing-train-journeys-toexperience-in-2019

LT / INTERACTIVE

CHECK IN TO PARADISE

5 ULTRA-LUXURY RESORTS IN THE MALDIVES

Lush, verdant islands. Squeaky, white sand beaches. Clear, warm water teeming with marine life. The Maldives is heaven on Earth, and home to so many luxurious –and expensive – resorts, it’s hard to decide where to stay. But for the discerning traveller, those seeking an absolute, ultra-luxury hideaway, just a handful stand out that embody the most luxurious thing of all – exclusivity and seclusion. Here are five super-luxurious resorts that will potentially ruin all future resort experiences for you for the rest of your life… sorry, but we think they’re worth it.

luxurytravelmag.com.au/check-in-to-paradise

Road Less Travelled

It was a few years ago now, but the memory is still crystal clear. I had walked outside for some fresh air following a dinner of assorted gourmet plates. An after-dinner drink had me feeling a little light headed. Or, now that I think of it, maybe it was the 4000-plus meters of altitude. I was, after all, in the middle of the Andes Mountains.

Surrounded by silence, and under a moon so full and bright I wanted to reach out and touch it, I took stock. What an adventure. I was mid-way through an incredible trek between Bolivia and Chile and had already chalked the trip up as unforgettable. I was so far removed from my daily life yet I knew then the impact would linger once I returned to that routine. Surreal.

American writer and activist Helen Keller had the right idea when she declared, “Life is either a daring adventure, or nothing.”

Once the exclusive domain of the hardcore, adventure travel has evolved to become considerably more accessible with action to suit thrill-seekers of all skill and fitness levels. For some, “daring adventure” involves blood, sweat and tears. Others are happier with a healthy side serve of “cheers” – by way of a flute of Dom Perignon, that is. Regardless, adventurers love heading off the proverbial beaten track – literally and metaphorically – and resorts, hotels and destinations are racking their creative brains to deliver.

Our cover story this issue, written by Kate Symons, will whisk you away – far, far away – from your daily lives and, at times, your comfort zone. Choose Your Own Adventure, starting on page 54, features 20 of the most spectacular luxury travel adventures in the world to get you on your way. Travel is all about storytelling and you’ll have some great yarns for friends and family after tackling any of these. Have fun and remember, life goes by fast so get going before you can’t.

Of course, these aren’t the only adventures to feature in the issue. Among others, Christine McCabe writes of her time in Tanzania and Kenya with Sanctuary Retreats, an adventure to be sure (Wild at Heart, page 120 ) , while Brook Sabin ventures to waters bluer than he thought possible with Regent Seven Seas (Into the Blue, page 78) Changing tack, our Digital Editor Madelin Tomelty has taken an in-depth look at luxury travel’s evershifting landscapes. It is really interesting to see how and why our priorities have changed. Take a look: The Luxe Evolution , page 46.

We had some big shoes to fill following the Photo Essay in our last edition, featuring Steve McCurry of ‘Afghan Girl’ fame. But, as you will see, starting on page 46, Australian-based underwater photographer Matty Smith is a very worthy successor.

As always, thanks for flipping through our pages. Whether you’re a subscriber or you’ve just purchased your first copy of Luxury Travel from a newsstand, your support means a lot. If you have something to say – good, bad or ugly – please do email me at:

gary@luxurytravelmedia.com.au. I’d love to hear from you.

Meanwhile, travel well. It is truly one of life’s greatest experiences.

Gary Allen

NORTHERN EUROPE ENCHANTMENT

NORTHERN EUROPE ENCHANTMENT

LET US TAKE YOU CLOSER TO THE AUTHENTIC BEAUTY OF THE WORLD

SILVERSEA’S LUXURY NORTHERN EUROPE CRUISES

SILVERSEA’S LUXURY NORTHERN EUROPE CRUISES

Explore lands where centuries of history intersect with a vibrant mixture of culture. Experience the legendary landscapes of Northern Europe, the Baltic, and the British Isles like an insider. Kayak through UNESCO World Heritage listed Geiranger Fjord. Travel northwards and step food inside the Arctic Circle. Embrace the exquisite natural beauty that is Flåm from a unique perspective during a panoramic ride aboard the Flåm Railway.

Explore lands where centuries of history intersect with a vibrant mixture of culture. Experience the legendary landscapes of Northern Europe, the Baltic, and the British Isles like an insider. Kayak through UNESCO World Heritage listed Geiranger Fjord. Travel northwards and step food inside the Arctic Circle. Embrace the exquisite natural beauty that is Flåm from a unique perspective during a panoramic ride aboard the Flåm Railway.

THE NORTH CAPE

THE NORTH CAPE

London (Tilbury) to Copenhagen

12 June, 2019 | 15 Days Silver Spirit | Voyage 5917

London (Tilbury) to Copenhagen

12 June, 2019 | 15 Days

Silver Spirit | Voyage 5917

ALL INCLUSIVE FLY/CRUISE PACKAGES FROM AU$12,400 PER PERSON*

ALL INCLUSIVE FLY/CRUISE PACKAGES FROM AU$12,400 PER PERSON*

Return economy flights & transfers included, or upgrade to Business class for AU$4,998pp. Don’t need flights? Take AU$2,000 off your cruise fare.

INTO THE BLUE 78

Brook Sabin sold everything three years ago and gave up life as a political journalist to travel full-time. The journey since then has taken him from the heights of the Himalayas to depths of underwater dining in the Maldives, but Brook says his latest adventure - cruising to the most remote islands in the world on an ultra-luxury ship - tops them all.

WILD AT HEART 120

Author and travel writer Christine McCabe has been documenting her adventures for more than three decades. Raised in the Aussie bush, she loves nothing better than heading out on safari. In Tanzania she travels with the best as Sanctuary Retreats returns to safari’s roots with a romantic mobile camp on the Serengeti, while in Kenya a new-look luxury lodge puts the glamour back into khaki.

Matty Smith

WHAT LIES BENEATH 128

AHEAD OF THE GAME 152

Return economy flights & transfers included, or upgrade to Business class for AU$4,998pp. Don’t need flights? Take AU$2,000 off your cruise fare.

Limited time one category upgrade and US$1,000 shipboard credit included

Limited time one category upgrade and US$1,000 shipboard credit included

Solo traveller fares starting from 25%

Solo traveller fares starting from 25%

FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO BOOK CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL PROFESSIONAL OR SILVERSEA ON 1300 727 155 | SILVERSEA.COM

FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO BOOK CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL PROFESSIONAL OR SILVERSEA ON 1300 727 155 | SILVERSEA.COM

*T&C’s: Fares shown are in AUD, based on double occupancy in the lowest available suite category on voyage 5917, includes Air offer and Last Minute Savings. Air offer available between 1 Feb to 31 Mar, 2019, to 1st & 2nd guests per suite. Non-use air offer AU$2,000pp available. Flights from select gateways only and capacity controlled. LMS offer available between 16 Jan to 15 Mar, 2019, guests will receive up to deluxe veranda on Silver Spirit and US$1,000 onboard credit per suite. If upgrade not available receive AU$500 credit. Booking terms apply. 25% Solo Fares are capacity controlled. All fares, savings, offers, programmes and itineraries are correct at time of print, are capacity controlled, and subject to change at any time without notice. Additional restrictions may apply. Silversea reserves the right to correct any errors or omissions. Visit silversea.com for complete Terms and Conditions.

*T&C’s: Fares shown are in AUD, based on double occupancy in the lowest available suite category on voyage 5917, includes Air offer and Last Minute Savings. Air offer available between 1 Feb to 31 Mar, 2019, to 1st & 2nd guests per suite. Non-use air offer AU$2,000pp available. Flights from select gateways only and capacity controlled. LMS offer available between 16 Jan to 15 Mar, 2019, guests will receive up to deluxe veranda on Silver Spirit and US$1,000 onboard credit per suite. If upgrade not available receive AU$500 credit. Booking terms apply. 25% Solo Fares are capacity controlled. All fares, savings, offers, programmes and itineraries are correct at time of print, are capacity controlled, and subject to change at any time without notice. Additional restrictions may apply. Silversea reserves the

Matty’s work has been exhibited around the world from the London Natural History Museum to the Australian Museum in Sydney. He is a photographer for Ocean Geographic Magazine and a Nikon Australia and Aquatica Digital ambassador. 'A Parallel Universe: Windows Beneath the Waves', featured in part from page 128, is a selection of his favourite images.

Journalist, broadcaster and author Julia Baird, who is the host of The Drum and writes columns for The Sydney Morning Herald and The New York Times, travelled with her wide-eyed nine-year-old son to The Peninsula Hotel in Tokyo for the ultimate night in. She discovered a cocoon of calm – along with plenty of fun – in a pulsing city that celebrates the quirky and curious like no other.

Brook Sabin

Christine McCabe

Julia Baird

Red Rorbu Fishing Hut, Norway

Red Rorbu Fishing Hut, Norway

EXECUTIVE EDITOR & PUBLISHER

Gary Allen gary@luxurytravelmedia.com.au

GENERAL MANAGER & MANAGING EDITOR

Richard Bunting t: +61 424 138 806 rbunting@luxurytravelmedia.com.au

DIGITAL EDITOR & FEATURE WRITER

Madelin Tomelty mtomelty@luxurytravelmedia.com.au

ART DIRECTOR

Kyle Sansbury design@luxurytravelmedia.com.au

CONTRIBUTING EDITOR & COPY EDITOR

Kate Symons ksymons@luxurytravelmedia.com.au

HEALTH & WELLNESS EDITOR

Kelly Allen kallen@luxurytravelmedia.com.au

CRUISE CONTRIBUTING EDITOR

Sally Macmillan sallymacmillan@bigpond.com

U.S CONTRIBUTOR

Jennifer Maeder jbmaeder@gmail.com

CREATIVE ASSISTANT

Sara Hood DIRECTORS

Scott Venturelli

Robin Venturelli

Australia’s most exclusive luxury lodge with just four pavilions and all-inclusive rates making your stay effortless prettybeachhouse.com

© Photograph by Denis Belitsky

WITH ARANUI CRUISES

Travel 3800km across the South Pacific on the adventure of a lifetime

VISIT 9 FRENCH POLYNESIAN ISLANDS IN 13 DAYS

ARANUI 5 OFFERS THE ULTIMATE PASSENGER FREIGHTER EXPERIENCE

MEALS, GUIDED SHORE EXCURSIONS AND ONBOARD ACTIVITIES INCLUDED IN THE FARE

For an authentic French Polynesian experience like no other, join passenger freighter Aranui 5 on a 13-day cruise around the Society, Tuamotu and Marquesas Islands

Feast on local and traditional cuisine in remote villages

Learn ancient tribal traditions such as haka dancing and weaving

Follow in the footsteps of famous French artist Paul Gauguin

Enjoy a picnic on a private island in Bora Bora

Experience life on a supply ship with local crew

Cruise on a Polynesian-style small ship

Bey0nd the

Bitumen

Driving a Bentley is a memorable experience, no matter where you are. Driving a Bentley on the baron, Mars-like terrain of Iceland accelerates the thrill, and Bentley’s exclusive drive experiences can deliver this once-in-a-lifetime opportunity.

Bentley driving experiences are truly exceptional, combining the luxury and innovation of the manufacturer’s renowned fleet with the thrill of off-track adventure.

A fascinating country packed with unique landscapes, Iceland is a perfect choice for a bespoke drive experience. The terrain offers little in the way of vegetation or wildlife, yet driving around this Nordic nation remains a sight to behold with beauty to be found in the vista of dust, volcanic rock and snow-capped mountains. The more you explore, the more the beauty becomes apparent with immense lakes, ancient volcanic mountains and views of the Northern Lights after dark.

The Bentley Bentayga delivers off-road – be it on sand, ice or boulders – at the turn of a dial, and always in luxurious comfort. Driving over boulder-laden mountains and through icy rivers at minus-17 degrees is a feat this remarkable SUV handles with aplomb, thanks to Bentley Dynamic Ride, a sophisticated active-roll system that ensures premium handling on all surfaces.

Bentley drive experiences are open to all Bentley owners, reason enough to join this prestigious club.

https://www.bentleymotors.com/en/world-of-bentley/experiences.html

© Photograph by Bentley Bentayga Iceland

Isle

Style

The Maldives might be shrinking, but that’s not putting a dampener on the plans of the thousands of paradise-seekers that make their way to this idyllic destination every year. More specifically, it’s certainly not stopping those giddy travellers on their way to Velaa Private Island. A boutique beauty north of Malé in the gorgeous Noonu Atoll, this private retreat’s name means ‘Turtle Island’ in the local language, a tribute to the countless generations of sea turtles that have flocked to its sandy shores to nest and hatch over the years. For the ultimate in seclusion there are just 43 ‘rooms’, and each boasts generous terraces and gazebos positioned to maximise shade, breeze, views and privacy. You could choose a private villa, house or residence, but for a 360-degree nature immersion opt for an overwater bungalow. This is the Maldives, after all.

velaaprivateisland.com

© Photograph by Velaa Private Island

AFLAVOUR RENAISSANCE

FOR AN AVID EPICUREAN, it doesn’t get much better than dining in a Michelin-starred restaurant in the very birthplace of Michelin stars. Unless, of course, that Michelinstarred restaurant is not only in France, but also in the gastronomic capital of the world – and in a magnificent 16th-century building, no less. In the beautiful southern French city of Lyon, this is exactly what’s on offer, if you know where to look.

Just ramble along the pretty cobblestoned streets of Vieux Lyon (Lyon Old Town) until you find yourself outside the old stone-archway façade of five-star hotel Cour des Loges. Meaning ‘Court of Lodges’ en Francais, this historic marvel features a central courtyard at the heart of the property that connects four centuries-old terracotta red buildings once home to hundreds of Lyonnaise. Today, they house 61 rooms and serve as a home away from home for well-heeled explorers.

It’s in this stone courtyard, topped by a beautiful 17-metre-high contemporary glass canopy, that the Michelin-star restaurant Les Loges

resides. A page ripped from a history book, the dining room is replete with white-tablecloth-clad tables, crystal chandeliers radiating warm, golden light and the most proper of wait staff that ask guests questions like, “Would you like sparkling water with big bubbles, or little bubbles?” As for what’s on the plate, to begin there can only be one thing, especially in France, and that’s good bread. At Les Loges a vast variety of this arrives on a dedicated trolley, sitting alongside a football-sized slab of homemade herb butter for a ceremonial breaking of bread that’s down right biblical. This would probably be enough to satisfy the appetite of the bakery-devoted Frenchman, but for the rest of us there’s a menu of traditional seasonal French cuisine to devour. Think foie gras, tomato confit and chef Anthony Bonnet’s signature pigeon recipe. And let’s not forget the fromage (cheese), which, let’s be honest, is one of the best reasons to travel to France in the first place. Bon appetit!

Les Loges, 6 Rue du boeuf 69005, Lyon | courdesloges.com

Alamanda Palm Cove

By MADELIN TOMELTY

IF

ANYBODY NEEDS ME, I’LL BE BY THE POOL. ON SECOND THOUGHT,

I’ll be at the beach… or relaxing in the spa pavilion. Actually, maybe check for me at Nu Nu, too, because it’s been four hours since I had the best breakfast of my life there and I’m already romanticising my next meal.

To be clear – this wasn’t just a particularly good Sunday morning fry-up. It wasn’t even a Neil Perry-worthy egg scramble, a melt-in-the-mouth crispy potato rosti or a Millennial-friendly smashed avocado. It was a North Queensland mud crab omelette with greens and a ginger, caramel and white pepper broth. Now this is a breakfast of champions, I thought, as I slurped and munched my way around the plate at Alamanda Palm Cove’s hatted restaurant. This is my first time to Tropical North Queensland, and I must say, ‘Alamanda, I’m pleased to make your acquaintance.’

Alamanda Palm Cove has plenty to boast about, not least of all its much-lauded restaurant. It is also the only beachfront property in the area. Nothing lies between the hotel and the white sand on this corner of the Cove, meaning guests can get from their room to the beach in about 90 seconds flat, which gives you an idea of how I spend my time here. But it only takes me about 30 minutes in the tropical destination to grasp why so many east coasters have made this their go-to beach holiday destination. Maybe there’s something in the water, because although I’m travelling solo on this trip I never feel alone or bored, and my disposition seems to mirror the sunny, golden weather each day of my three-night sojourn.

Ambling along the footpath that winds along the beachfront boulevard is as peaceful an experience as any cushion-seated meditation I’ve ever done, and I have a real pep in my step with every boho boutique I wander into on the promenade. I’ve timed my first trip to the region with one of the hottest spells on record and, as luck would have it, an unfortunate – but typical – panic-pack has left me with three pairs of jeans but no

shorts to manage the steamy 36-degree days. No matter. It’s nearly time for my massage and I can cool off in the pool in the spa pavilion, which I’m told is a relatively new addition to the resort. Admittedly I don’t know what a ‘spa pavilion’ actually is – even less so after a bliss-inducing 60-minute massage – and I’m not sure what to expect when my therapist leads me up a set of stairs to the spa’s rooftop, where I find three unassuming white marquees.

Even if I had expectations, they would have been far exceeded by what faces me inside now. A seemingly never-ending panorama of blue takes up most of my vision as a cloudless sky bleeds into a brilliant azure ocean, before fading into the turquoise of my private infinity pool. This real-life watercolour painting stops me in my tracks, and I turn to my therapist, wide-eyed. “I have two questions,” I say. “Where am I again, and when can I come back?”

The next hour is passed in a dream state as I roll from the comfy lounge into the pool and back again, before the time comes to float back out into the ‘real world’, by which I mean the resort and my oversized, two-storey accommodation.

The self-contained apartment-style rooms – although incredibly generous in size and comfortable – are rather dated, as is the overall resort design, which hails from the 1980s, but I hear the hotel is undergoing a renovation over the next few years, and this is a minor speedbump in what is otherwise a very impressive hotel experience.

Besides, there is a far bigger problem than the rooms at Alamanda Palm Cove. A stay there makes going back to everyday life particularly painful. It might be time for another trip to Nu Nu.

lancemore.com.au/alamanda

Castle King of the

LUXURY CASTLE HIRE IS HELPING DISCERNING TRAVELLERS LIVE OUT THE ULTIMATE FAIRYTALE

HEAR YE, HEAR YE! MEGHAN MARKLE MIGHT HAVE snapped up one of royalty’s most eligible bachelors, but there are alternative ways to experience the grandeur of castle living.

Stroll extravagant landscaped gardens, admire grand towers and turrets, wander opulent corridors, rest as soundly as Sleeping Beauty in a hand-carved four-poster bed – a castle holiday is an experience steeped in history, romance, and majesty.

Luxury Castle Hire has been delivering the royal treatment to customers for decades with its selection of regal properties across the UK, in Europe and around the world. The castle specialist has more than 150 castles in its portfolio, allowing travellers to step away from reality and straight into a fairytale.

Set in a 200-hectare private estate, on the southern shoreline of mysterious Loch Ness, Scotland’s Aldourie Castle is a sparkling example of Luxury Castle Hire’s extensive catalogue. The enchanting Highland Castle, first recorded as a mansion house in 1626, features 15 elegant bedrooms, each individually styled, along with various

cosy living spaces exuding old-world grace. Luxury and warmth are common features connecting the Luxury Castle Hire collection, whether you settle on a stately manor (try Ellenborough Park, a 15th-century Cotswolds property complete with 60 luxurious bedrooms), an Italian hideaway (perhaps Villa Michaela, a Tuscan dream surrounded by more than 20 hectares of private grounds, pine forests and olive groves), or a French chateaux (say “oui” to Saint-Martory, restored from the Renaissance period with spectacular views of the Pyrénées mountains).

Luxury Castle Hire offers entire castle hire or the option to rent a room in a castle. Parties, corporate events and, of course, weddings and honeymoons are all specialties. Private island hire is also available.

For more information, visit luxurycastlehire.co.uk

STEVE HUI , CEO AND FOUNDER OF IFLYFLAT , HIGHLIGHTS SOME OF AIR TRAVEL’S PREMIUM SERVICES TO CREATE THE ULTIMATE – AND, AT LEAST FOR NOW, HYPOTHETICAL – RETURN FLIGHT EXPERIENCE

THE WORLD’S BEST AIRLINE? GOOD QUESTION. AND, AS A FREQUENT traveller, it is one I field a lot. It seems like an easy one, too. Yet, the more one travels, the harder it is to settle on an answer. Every airline, airport and aircraft delivers a unique experience, and each comes with good and bad points.

In fact, the ultimate flight, to my mind, doesn’t exist. Instead, it is an amalgam of some of the best and most luxurious experiences in air travel. Here, I’ve pulled together the hypothetical dream flight.

DEPARTURE

Transfers | Emirates

Emirates’ chauffeur-drive service, available in more than 70 cities worldwide, provides a stylish and stress-free start to any journey. Passengers booked to fly on Emirates First or Business Class, including those on points redemption tickets, receive complimentary airport chauffeurs. One car per passenger is available to transport guests between home and their departure airport followed by their destination airport and hotel. Return transfers are also included for a seamless transition from start to finish.

Check-in | Qantas First Class

Qantas’s dedicated First Class check-in service makes light work of pre-flight administration. You’ll be greeted with a small to non-existent line and a warm, welcoming smile before being efficiently checked in. So comfortable is the space, you won’t even be in a hurry to leave.

Immigration | Sydney International

Boarding pass in hand, the express corridor at Sydney International delivers you to the automated airport immigration gates that slide open after a quick facial verification. It’s a wonderfully uncomplicated version of an oftentedious process.

Lounge | Qantas First Class Sydney International

A lush living wall brings calm as you ascend the escalator towards the Qantas First Class lounge, with its expansive and oddly mesmerising views of the airport and aircraft movements. Guided to your table as if you were dining at a three-hatted restaurant, you’ll soon be faced with a welcome conundrum: what to eat from the Neil Perry-designed menu? Oh, and when you should schedule your massage?

Cabin/Seat | Etihad A380 First Apartment

With 3.6 square metres of private space, the Etihad First Apartment has revolutionised the First Class experience. Rejecting convention, the full-length fully-flat bed is entirely separate from the seat and both can be accessed simultaneously. The ‘apartment’ is big enough to fit up to four people – helpful for meetings or simply to pass the time with travel companions. Then again, time in your own company isn’t bad either, especially when you’re gazing out one of the three apartment windows with a glass of Champagne or other top-shelf beverage.

Food & Beverage | Etihad Inflight Chefs

In keeping with the five-star standard of the airline’s First Apartments, Etihad has also raised the bar with its Inflight Chef service. More than 200 internationally trained chefs work on Etihad’s long-haul First Class sectors, giving passengers the option of diverting from the onboard menu for an individualised and delicious dining experience.

Inflight Extras | Emirates

An experience that cannot be forgotten, the bathroom onboard the Emirates A380 is often credited with being bigger than most New York apartments. Then there’s the Emirates ICE entertainment system, with an impressive 3500 channels. Or perhaps a seat at the bar is more your style. The Emirates A380 Business Class bar is the perfect excuse to stretch your legs.

Airport Connection | Hong Kong Airport Express

The best airport-to-city (or vice versa) connection is in Hong Kong with the Airport Express, a frequent purpose-designed fast train that will deliver you to the centre of the city within 30 minutes.

RETURN Check-in | Hong Kong

Kudos to Hong Kong, a world leader in efficiency. Hong Kong’s in-town check-in facilities allow you to check your baggage and collect your boarding pass in the city, about 40 kilometres from the airport. With your bags en route, you now have the freedom to continue your holiday or business meetings.

Lounge | The Private Room, Singapore Airlines, Changi Airport

Only available to First Class ticket holders, The Private Room is an indulgent way to while away time. Lobster, steak, Champagne and other drinks entice you to eat before your flight.

Cabin/Seat | Singapore Airlines A380 First Class Suite

The luxury of a private cabin with a full-sized bed as well as a permanent seat is now the benchmark in air travel and Singapore Airlines has joined the elite with its A380 First Class Suite. As well as the electronically controlled Poltrona Frau leather swivel chair, there is a luxury padded storage shelf with room for each of your belongings to have its place. The experience certainly makes you want to tell the Captain to take the long route.

Food & Beverage | Singapore Airlines

French Champagne and caviar? Don’t mind if I do. And it’s just one of the indulgent options on offer from Singapore Airlines’ Book-the-Cook selection.

For more information on Steve Hui, visit iflyflat.com.au

Vietnam Airlines

SYDNEY TO HO CHI MINH

Flight Number: VN 772 Boeing 787-9 Dreamliner / Class: Business Class / Seat: 3A

Flight time: 8 hours 25 minutes / Reviewed by: Kaitlin Jane

The Cabin

The Dreamliner is my favourite way to get from A to B. It feels open and spacious with large windows and great lighting, and somehow the air seems fresher. Business Class seats 28 passengers with a 1-2-1, reverse-herringbone seat configuration, giving everyone direct access to the aisle.

The Seat

I was in seat 3A, a window seat that is far enough away from the galley and toilet to ensure you are not disturbed during the flight by noise or lights. Seats are comfortable enough and convert to a fully flat bed. I slept well, although a mattress topper would be a lovely bonus. The armrest can be raised for added privacy. There are two designated storage compartments as well as space under the leg rest, a dimmable reading light, and convenient power points and USB charging.

The Food

Orders are taken before we are airborne, unfortunately both my first choice for entrée and main are unavailable. Considering the cabin is only about a quarter full, and I am in the third row, this is surprising. My second choice is pretty good, though: smoked salmon confit with crème fraîche dashi cream, olive tapenade and nori powder followed by lamb backstrap served with potato chestnut puree and roasted

The Fine Print

Baggage: 30kg checked baggage plus two carry-on items

Loyalty: Lotusmiles, Skyteam

WiFi: No

Amenities Kit: Acca Kappa

parsnips. The flight attendants come through the aisles with a choice of bread and after the meal they offer cheese, fruit, pastries and pistachio ice cream with chocolate sauce.

The Service

The flight attendants are polite, courteous and efficient. While they are not chatty or outgoing, the service is prompt and I am given a cool towel and offered a drink within minutes of taking a seat. Menus and newspapers are distributed, with more reading material available at the front of the cabin.

The Entertainment

Each seat has a 15.4-inch HD screen, which has both touch screen and hand held remote available. Headphones are provided, though I find my own more comfortable. There are several new releases on offer and some interesting documentaries, especially those showcasing Vietnam culture and destinations.

The Highs

Lighting was good, especially as I was in a window seat. There were very few announcements or disruptions. I put my Do Not Disturb sticker on and was not bothered at all. I like the designated business class mini bus to and from the aircraft. It means not having to wait for everyone to unload and squeeze in like sardines on the big bus.

Tip

If possible, get your visa before travelling to Vietnam. While it’s possible to get a visa on arrival, the immigration lines in Ho Chi Minh can be very long.

EXPERIENCE A NEW GOLDEN AGE OF WAIKĪKĪ

AT THE FRESHLY REIMAGINED QUEEN KAPI‘OLANI HOTEL. CHOOSE FROM 315 NEWLY TRANSFORMED GUEST ROOMS, INCLUDING 36 SUITES, WITH SPECTACULAR, UNOBSTRUCTED VIEWS OF KAPI‘OLANI PARK, DIAMOND HEAD, WAIKĪKĪ BEACH, AND INFINITY VIEWS OF THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

QueenKapiolani.com

150 KAPAHULU AVENUE, HONOLULU HI 96815

In the Know

COMING SOON

HAYMAN ISLAND BY INTERCONTINENTAL EN ROUTE

The glittering crown that is the Whitsundays will soon unveil its new jewel with Hayman Island by InterContinental set to open in July. Following a multi-million-dollar refurbishment, the famous resort will offer guests a truly immersive stay in one of the most spectacular destinations in the world. The 166-room resort has been reimagined to take full advantage of the surrounding natural beauty while incorporating all the luxuries you would expect of a secluded island paradise, and more.

Managed by InterContinental Hotels Group (IHG), one of the world’s leading hotel companies, the resort will feature new, first-class restaurants and bars as well as new spa, kids’ club and unrivalled meeting and event spaces.

Bespoke on-island experiences, from jet-ski adventures to awe-inspiring seaplane rides, further enhance this dream destination.

Hayman Island sits at the northernmost point of the sparkling Whitsunday archipelago, gateway to the Great Barrier Reef. In fact, it is the nearest Whitsunday island to the outer reef, including the world-famous Heart Reef

and Whitehaven Beach. Moreover, Hayman Island by InterContinental is the island’s only resort, giving guests exclusive access to 400 hectares of unspoiled surrounds and the accompanying views across the Coral Sea. Accommodation options range from luxurious suites and beachfront villas to lagoon and poolside rooms. Meanwhile, the three-suite Beach House offers a private slice of Hayman heaven while a new collection of luxury private residences will also be available to rent.

Resort Manager Mark Eletr says: “Opening our unique paradise in the Whitsundays to the world under InterContinental’s trusted brand is a true privilege. Hayman Island continues to capture the hearts of domestic and international travellers and we are thrilled to announce that on 1 July our doors will open and a new chapter of immersive luxury awaits.”

Reservations are available now with bookings live for July 1. intercontinental.com

WEEKENDER

A Gourmet Getaway

Boutique luxury hotel Lakehouse Daylesford in regional Victoria will welcome some of Australia’s top chefs as part of its gourmet masterclass series in May. The all-day Autumn Masterclass, taking place on Sunday 5 May, will welcome special guest chefs Shannon Martinez from Smith & Daughters in Melbourne, Duncan Welgemoed from Africola in Adelaide, and Danielle Alvarez from Fred’s in Sydney. Hosted by Lake House Culinary Director Alla Wolf-Tasker, the full day of demonstrations and discussions will be held at the hotel’s on-site Cooking School. Tickets are available now for $295 per person, which includes all three demonstrations, recipes, tastings, baguette lunch, wine and refreshments. Be quick, spots are limited.

26

AUCKLAND NEWCOMER SO/ IMPRESSIVE

Auckland has upped its hospitality game with the opening of the ultra cool SO/ Sofitel. As with its sister properties, expect funky furniture (such as the spectacular Marcel Wanders-designed Moooi Charleston sofas, permanently repositioned on one end to provide a one- or two-person seat) and splashy colours and decor, while the bar next to the check-in desk is sure to put you in the party mood. Located in the heart of Auckland, the hotel is in a prime spot for exploring the city and most rooms enjoy views of the docks and waterfront.

Once a grungy district awash with backpacker accommodation, cheap pubs and ‘dancing girl’ venues, Auckland’s Britomart neighbourhood, where you’ll find SO/, has evolved to host luxury brands

such as Tiffany & Co., Chanel, Prada and Louis Vuitton. Beyond such global names, there are many boutique shops, some native to Auckland, ready to be explored.

Britomart is home to great restaurants and a cool pub scene, too, and you must try the hotel’s in-house dining at Harbour Society, lead by Head Chef Marc De Passorio. The beautifully presented restaurant serving tasty fish and meat dishes will leave you quite content and ready for an after-dinner drink upstairs in the rooftop bar, Hi So. Open and airy, Hi So boasts a large outdoor space and the sunsets over the harbour are a sight to behold. It’s the perfect place to farewell another day in this energetic city. sofitel.accorhotels.com

Number of hotels that have opened in Brisbane since 2014

STRAIGHTEN UP

Kamalaya Wellness Sanctuary & Holistic Spa in Koh Samui, Thailand has launched a new wellness program designed to realign the body for optimum function. Led by Kamalaya’s team of physiotherapists, naturopaths and other health professionals, the Structural Revival program identifies and addresses the underlying causes of structural imbalances in the body, helping improve posture, reduce tension, rehabilitate injuries and re-establish vitality. The program is available for five-, seven- and nine-night durations, starting from TBH80,973 (about A$3645) per person, twin share.

luxurytravelmag.com.au/2018/11/kamalayareleases-structural-revival-wellness-program

EYES ON THE DATAI

its new interiors and facilities following an extensive 12-month refurbishment.

20,000

The number of plant-based meals served on Emirates flights in January. The airline saw a 40 per cent increase in onboard requests for vegan meals during the month, and Emirates revealed vegan meals are the third most commonly requested special meal in Economy class.

UNITED POLARIS LOUNGE OPENS AT LAX

United’s award-winning Polaris business class lounge has opened at Los Angeles International Airport. At 1110 square metres, the new lounge features 140 seats with different areas for productivity, privacy and dining, as well as luxurious shower suites with rainfall showerheads and Soho House & Co’s Cowshed Spa products. For those needing a quick kip in between flights there are private daybeds, sumptuously outfitted with Saks Fifth Avenue bedding, while the restaurant-quality culinary experience at The Dining Room boasts an international menu developed by Los Angeles native chef Tritia Gestuvo. Meanwhile, the signature cocktail list is a nod to the city’s innovative drinks culture.

The lounge is located between Gates 73 and 75A and faces west, giving guests direct views of LA’s fiery sunsets. The design evokes a distinct Southern California feel, showcasing artwork by Los Angeles-based artists Rema Ghuloum, Chris Trueman and Ruth Pastine, as well as a food and beverage program inspired by the City of Angels.

The opening follows a recently completed US$573-million renovation of Terminal 7 by the airline, which included creating a shortcut to avoid the “horseshoe” road around the terminals. In addition to the Polaris lounge, United recently opened a new United Club in Terminal 7, offering customers who want a more upscale experience access to The Private Terminal. view.ceros.com/united/polaris-business-class

The Datai Langkawi, located on the tropical island of Langkawi in Malaysia, has revealed

DISCOVERY FLOATING ON LUXURY

You can now stay in a five-star hotel that floats on water. Welcome to the Fingal – a 55-year-old ship-turned-hotel in Edinburgh’s historic Port of Leith offering quirk-seeking luxury travellers a Scottish experience unlike any other. With 23 cabins boasting an elegant nautical design of polished woods, sumptuous Scottish leather and the highest quality linens, the historic vessel has been transformed

into a boutique hotel that oozes glamour. The grand ballroom featuring a sweeping staircase, which can seat up to 60 guests, is case in point. Alternatively, take in a panorama of the vibrant port through the floor-to-ceiling windows of the Lighthouse Bar with its soft leather seats and luxurious feel. Permission to come aboard, Captain? fingal.co.uk

A NEW LEVEL OF LUX IN THE MALDIVES

LUX North Malé Atoll has opened on Olhahali island, a six-hectare Maldivian isle fringed by white-sand beaches. The second LUX property to open in the Maldives, the new villa-only resort takes a new direction in design, departing from the traditional thatched villas in favour of a penthouse paradise boasting modern and contemporary style. Inspired by the curves, lines and finish of a luxury boat, the unique resort showcases nautical elements, clean lines and pops of bright colour. Each of the 67 bright and breezy double-storey penthouse residences –located on the beach and over the water – has a private pool and a living area of at least 350 square metres. And for the first time in the Maldives, each residence is crowned with a magnificent private Sky Lounge offering guests a continuous pastel panorama of the Indian Ocean. LUX North Malé Atoll is located a short transfer from Malé by luxury speedboat or scenic seaplane and is open for bookings now. luxresorts.com/en/hotel-maldives/luxnorthmaleatoll

MARRIOTT ROLLS OUT NEW LOYALTY PROGRAM

Marriott Bonvoy has replaced Marriott International’s previous portfolio of loyalty brands – Marriott Rewards, The Ritz-Carlton Rewards and Starwood Preferred Guest (SPG) –as one single loyalty portfolio. Marriott Rewards Moments and SPG Moments are now known as Marriott Bonvoy Moments. Marriott Bonvoy members will have access to Marriott’s portfolio of diverse brands including the largest collection of lifestyle and luxury properties around the world, and approximately 120,000 experiences in 1000 destinations available for purchase or by redeeming points. These include excursions such as hiking into glacial Patagonia, desert treks on camelback in Morocco, or cruising to Vietnam’s timeless floating villages; as well as in once-in-a-lifetime experiences like cooking alongside renowned chefs Daniel Boulud and Eric Ripert, or honing American football skills in a masterclass with Hall of Famer Jerry Rice. Members will earn on average 20 per cent more points per dollar than the company’s previous rewards programs.

meetmarriottbonvoy.marriott.com

NO BOYS ALLOWED

Wilderness Scotland has unveiled an assortment of women-only guided tours taking place throughout 2019. This will be the first time the tour operator has offered the gendered trips, which were created to be more inclusive to women seeking wilderness adventures. The small-group tours will include activities such as sea kayaking among the Summer Isles and hiking the West Highland Way, all with expert guides, cosy accommodation and exciting itineraries designed to encourage more women to enjoy the outdoors alongside like-minded female adventurers.

NEW

FOR THOUGHT

MALAYSIA TO MAKE A TOURISM COMEBACK?

Could Malaysia be on the cusp of a tourism upswing? After five years of declining tourist arrivals that amount to a loss of around two million visitors since 2014, Malaysian tourism has been going through a prolonged rough patch. Australians in particular seem to have lost interest in Malaysian holidays, representing the largest drop in total arrivals to the country, plummeting by 38 per cent between 2014 and 2017. But this could be about to change, with the Malaysian government’s developments in Melaka and the Genting Highlands, and a strategy to tap into the luxury market.

In a partnership with Marella Cruises, the TUI Discovery Cruise ship will be homeported in Langkawi, and reports show the country’s hotel sector is growing, with 250 new hotels and as many as 130 hotels with 26,000 rooms becoming available in the next few years. The area – and hotel – we’re keeping our eye on is Desaru Coast in Johor, where One&Only will open their first Malaysian resort this year. One&Only Desaru Coast will be a 52-hectare beachfront development with 42 suites, two luxury suites and an exclusive four-bedroom villa, as well as an expected 50 One&Only Private Homes available for purchase. Could this be Malaysia’s time in the sun?

NAMIBIA

Namibia is in the midst of a mini hotel boom, with a string of luxury properties opening recently including Shipwreck Lodge, Hoanib Valley Camp and Omaanda, and even more opening this year. Sonop will be an exclusive lodge set at the southern extremity of the Namib Desert, while Habitas Namibia will be located on a private 35,000-hectare nature reserve and offer an immersive nature experience. The country has featured on dozens of ‘top 2019 destinations’ lists, and safari enthusiasts will recognise why. A spectacular and game-rich safari destination, the country is home to diverse, rare and endangered wildlife – including elephant, black rhino, cheetah and wild dog, among others – many of which have naturally adapted to the harsh and inhospitable desert environment. One for the bucket list.

Singapore

Was the most-booked overseas holiday destination by Australians in 2018, according to a survey by booking.com

“Today, backpackers and super high-end luxury people are actually closer than the big middle. They have similar psychologies and in fact, a lot of today’s super luxury… they were the backpackers! And they have that sense of adventure and wanting to see something different… except this time they want hot water!”

- Matthew Upchurch, T he Luxe Evolution 46

FOOD

lancemore.com.au/alamanda

EVOLUTION THE LUXE

A NEW GENERATION OF MODERN TRAVELLERS IS TRANSFORMING THE LUXURY TRAVEL INDUSTRY. MADELIN TOMELTY EXPLORES WHO THEY ARE, HOW THEY’RE RESHAPING A BOOMING SPACE AND WHAT THE FUTURE OF HIGH-END TRAVEL LOOKS LIKE

Luxury travel is not what it used to be. I don’t say this in a nostalgic way, but in a literal sense, because the luxury travel industry has not only changed significantly over the past decade, it is also growing at an unprecedented rate. In fact, numerous reports show the luxury sector is outpacing the rest of the travel industry and, according to a report published by Allied Market Research, the luxury travel market is predicted to generate US$1154 billion by 2022. What was previously an exclusive, premium pocket of travel experiences is now emerging as one of the fastest-growing sectors to contribute significantly to global economic growth and development – and plenty are benefiting from it, not just those heading off on holiday.

Luxury travel company Virtuoso has seen a remarkable expansion in its network in the past year, recording a 12 per cent growth and totalling sales of more than US$23 billion, up from $12.5 billion in 2013. And it’s only set to increase further. Meanwhile, there is a seemingly never-ending list of luxury hotels opening around the world. Marriott International is set to double its luxury footprint in Asia Pacific in the next few years, adding nearly 100 luxury hotels, and that’s just one company.

“It wasn’t that long ago that I could name you every Four Seasons or every Park Hyatt in the world,” Virtuoso founder and CEO, Mathew Upchurch, tells Luxury Travel Magazine. “Now, I can’t even name the ones that are opening up in the next 18 months.”

The new luxury traveller

So where is this incredible growth coming from? To put it bluntly, material goods are out, and memorable life experiences are in –and you don’t get much more memorable than a luxury holiday in a unique destination.

Research from travel network Trafalgar revealed that people today see travel not merely as an opportunity to step away from daily life and pressures, but also to be surprised and challenged, and experience something new. This attitude is spurring on a new era of ‘mass luxury’, where a vast, aspirational and hungry middleclass group is accessing the premium playground previously dominated by the top few per cent.

And while Baby Boomers might be the ones with the biggest piggybanks, it’s the digital-first generation, Millennials – those aged 22 to 37 years old – that is truly reshaping the luxury landscape. This globally minded group travels more often than previous generations and is the first generation to use the internet and social media for travel inspiration, research and booking.

Luxury travel agents report they’re seeing more and more young travellers prepared to invest whatever it costs for oncein-a-lifetime experiences. Millennials not only consider travel an incredibly important part of their lives, often valuing it >>

over buying a house, car, or paying off debt, they also value it as an integral part of their identity.

“[Millennials] have been part of this whole revolution of the transformation of the prioritisation of spending on goods to experiences,” says Upchurch, whose 23-year-old daughter has travelled the world, but “never owned a car in her life.”

It’s all about the experience

For the new luxury traveller – a group that includes Australians, who are consuming luxury travel experiences at record rates – the square meterage of their suite is just one of many factors they’re considering when booking trips. They want experiences, they want personalisation and they want to discover places before they become overdone.

It’s all about discovering the ‘next big thing’. Virtuoso’s latest Luxe Report identified ‘crossing off bucket-list items’, ‘exploring new destinations’ and ‘seeking authentic experiences’ as three top motivating factors for booking holidays, with destination immersion, or “destination intensives”, as Upchurch calls it, a vital prerequisite.

Downsized cruise ships that can visit boutique, smaller ports are seeing an increase in bookings, and customised small tours such as those delivered by Abercrombie & Kent are rising.

Today’s luxury traveller not only desires but expects memorable experiences that they can, in the short term, share with their network of friends and family through social media, and in the long term, treasure forever.

Ultra-luxury travellers are taking this desire for immersion and personalisation a step further, requesting specific seat numbers on planes and exact tables at in-demand restaurants. Tour companies are responding to demands of ultra-exclusive, bespoke experiences by organising exclusive openings and private exhibitions, sourcing tickets to major events such as the Olympics, the Super Bowl and Wimbledon, and arranging after-

From top: A cosy spot for romantics in Kas, Turkey; the natural travertine pools and terraces in Pamukkale, Turkey; a seaplane pulls in at Veligandu Island Resort & Spa in the Maldives. Opposite: Son Doong Cave, Vietnam.

hours tours of locales like the Vatican. Even setting up private appointments at designer stores like Hermès so guests can purchase signature items such as a Birkin bag, isn’t off the table. Travellers are also expressing a greater desire for experiences that bring them into the present moment and create deeper, authentic connections with destinations and locals. Interest in eco-tourism, sustainability and animal-related experiences is spiking, with adventure and safari travel overwhelmingly the most popular holiday type and accounting for about 44 per cent of the world’s overall luxury travel market revenue, according to the Allied Market Research report.

Visiting places that are out of the ordinary, social media-worthy and highly sharable is the new priority. The new luxury traveller doesn’t want to be seen doing what everyone else is doing, but rather, forging a new path.

Upchurch explains the shift as a “movement towards authenticity and a sense of place”.

“Today, backpackers and super high-end luxury people are actually closer than the big middle,” he says. “They have similar psychologies and in fact, a lot of today’s super luxury… they were the backpackers! And they have that sense of adventure and wanting to see something different… except this time they want hot water!” >>

“Luxury travellers want experiences, they want personalisation and they want to discover places before they become overdone and overrun.”

Tour groups and hotels are trying to keep up with this new consumer by offering ‘live like a local’ guides, tours and experiences. Trafalgar’s Be My Guest experiences promise guests will connect with ‘the soul of the places’. These are experiences such as joining a family in Croatia’s coastal town of Opatija for dinner, or meeting Marta Cucchia, the last person in the world creating renaissance silk and wool pieces using her family’s 20th-century Umbrian weaving techniques.

Boutique is the new black

Modern travellers have no reservations about splurging on these unique experiences, and for those that feel like they’ve seen it all, it’s about experiencing destinations in unusual ways through quirky and unconventional accommodation. Whether it’s a treehouse or a monastery, an igloo in Norway, a tent in the Moroccan desert, or a bubble in the Maldives, this desire for the different is driving the growth of home-sharing sites like Airbnb, as well as the demand among tour operators to push the boundaries of a traditional hotel stay.

To keep up with modern explorers’ sky-rocketing expectations, both big hotel chains and boutique properties have upped the ante on what they offer to guests, in a time when a bed-andbreakfast is simply not enough.

In addition to its sprawling hotel footprint, Marriot International has launched a range of new and unexpected experiences to its current portfolio of 120 hotels across eight brands –The Ritz-Carlton, Ritz-Carlton Reserve, St Regis Hotels & Resorts, W Hotels, The Luxury Collection, EDITION and JW Marriott.

In June last year Waldorf Astoria, the iconic luxury brand of Hilton, released its ‘Live Unforgettable’ campaign in a dramatic repositioning of the brand that highlighted its unique experiences in a bid to deepen the brand’s connection with today’s luxury travellers. Each of the brands now offer bespoke programming and distinct experiences that have been carefully curated to resonate with its guests’ modern mindset.

W Hotels’ Millennial-focused FUTURE RISING series offers exclusive panel events with creative leaders, and The Luxury Collection’s Global Explorer program offers guests an authentic look at the world’s most enchanting destinations through the eyes of leading cultural voices, such as renowned graphic designer and creative director Sofia Sanchez de Betak.

At St Regis properties, meanwhile, guests can access one-of-akind experiences through St Regis’ Connoisseurs, an elite group of global tastemakers and artisans including fashion designer Jason Wu and celebrated polo player Nacho Figueras.

Above : The Lindis provides luxury lodging in New Zealand. Opposite: The dining set-up at andBeyond Ngala Safari Lodge, South Africa.

Bruce Ryde, Vice-President, Luxury Brands and Brand Marketing, Marriott International Asia Pacific, says that today’s luxury travellers are not easy to please. “Luxury travellers today have higher expectations than ever before. While a sumptuous hotel, spa service and fine wine with dinner used to satisfy high-end globetrotters, this-one-size-fits-all approach is now losing out to personalised and authentic travel experiences that speak to people’s idealised selves,” he explains.

The new breed of ‘lifestyle hotels’ that has emerged in recent years responds directly to these rhapsodised aspirations. There is an undeniable trend in Australia and abroad towards intimate hotels that project distinct personalities through luxurious yet comforting on-trend interior design and attentive yet relaxed, new-age service.

Global hotel brands have begun launching boutique spin-off brands to their portfolios to attract a wider audience, with brands such as InterContinental’s Voco, and Accor’s MGallery and SO hotels, and the increasing popularity of hotel networks like Design Hotels. There’s no doubt boutique is the new black, but having fewer rooms is just part of the appeal.

Recognising travellers’ sentiment for bespoke and memorable experiences, smart hoteliers are rejecting the generic, transient

ambience of yesterday’s hotels. The result is a blurring of the lines between ‘home’ and ‘hotel’ where travellers select accommodation they see as mirroring their personality and style – effecting a whole new breed of brand connection.

Maintaining this connection and loyalty is another thing in the age of the ‘grass is greener’ traveller, and there has never been more pressure on the hotel industry to be creative and cutting-edge with their guest offering and add-ons. Upchurch points out hotels are also increasingly under pressure to show a respect for and collaboration with the environment, its people and the destination itself. “It used to be that things were very fragmented… but now the ecosystem is kind of like, if a hotel isn’t somewhat a conduit or portal into the culture of the destination, it falls flat,” he says.

The real luxury, it seems, is in the mind-expanding experiences and eye-opening encounters that can only be found on a journey beyond our home turf. We are experiencing an unprecedented global hunger for cultural enrichment, and the 21st-century pilgrim is positively famished. Time to plate up.

To read the full story, including the influence and impact of everadvancing technology, visit luxurytravelmag.com.au.

“It used to be that things were very fragmented… but now the ecosystem is kind of like, if a hotel isn’t somewhat a conduit or portal into the culture of the destination, it falls flat.”

NATURE HAS A LOT TO OFFER. AND SO DO WE.

NATURE HAS A LOT TO OFFER. AND SO DO WE.

NATURE HAS A LOT TO OFFER. AND SO DO WE.

NATURE HAS A LOT TO OFFER. AND SO DO WE.

NATURE HAS A LOT TO OFFER. AND SO DO WE.

Setting sail for the first time in October 2019, the HANSEATIC inspiration will take you on fascinating expeditions to the Polar Regions of the Arctic and Antarctic and to warmer regions like the Amazon, South and Central America and the Caribbean. The 17 on-board zodicas will allow you to come face-to-face with nature and to land on untouched coasts.

Setting sail for the first time in October 2019, the HANSEATIC inspiration will take you on fascinating expeditions to the Polar Regions of the Arctic and Antarctic and to warmer regions like the Amazon, South and Central America and the Caribbean. The 17 on-board zodicas will allow you to come face-to-face with nature and to land on untouched coasts.

Setting sail for the first time in October 2019, the HANSEATIC inspiration will take you on fascinating expeditions to the Polar Regions of the Arctic and Antarctic and to warmer regions like the Amazon, South and Central America and the Caribbean. The 17 on-board zodicas will allow you to come face-to-face with nature and to land on untouched coasts.

Setting sail for the first time in October 2019, the HANSEATIC inspiration will take you on fascinating expeditions to the Polar Regions of the Arctic and Antarctic and to warmer regions like the Amazon, South and Central America and the Caribbean. The 17 on-board zodicas will allow you to come face-to-face with nature and to land on untouched coasts.

Setting sail for the first time in October 2019, the HANSEATIC inspiration will take you on fascinating expeditions to the Polar Regions of the Arctic and Antarctic and to warmer regions like the Amazon, South and Central America and the Caribbean. The 17 on-board zodicas will allow you to come face-to-face with nature and to land on untouched coasts.

To learn more about our expedition cruises and to receive exclusive offers, sign up for our newsletter at www.hl-cruises.com/newsletter

To learn more about our expedition cruises and to receive exclusive offers, sign up for our newsletter at www.hl-cruises.com/newsletter

To learn more about our expedition cruises and to receive exclusive offers, sign up for our newsletter at www.hl-cruises.com/newsletter

To learn more about our expedition cruises and to receive exclusive offers, sign up for our newsletter at www.hl-cruises.com/newsletter

To learn more about our expedition cruises and to receive exclusive offers, sign up for our newsletter at www.hl-cruises.com/newsletter

For further information please contact: Landmark Travel

For further information please contact: Landmark Travel Phone: 02 99777100

Phone: 02 99777100

For further information please contact: Landmark Travel Phone: 02 99777100 E-mail: gerd@landmarktravel.com.au

E-mail: gerd@landmarktravel.com.au

For further information please contact: Landmark Travel Phone: 02 99777100

E-mail: gerd@landmarktravel.com.au

E-mail: gerd@landmarktravel.com.au

Hapag-Lloyd Kreuzfahrten GmbH, Ballindamm 25, 20095 Hamburg, Germany, service@hl-cruises.com, tel. +49 40 30703070, www.hl-cruises.com

Hapag-Lloyd Kreuzfahrten GmbH, Ballindamm 25, 20095 Hamburg, Germany, service@hl-cruises.com, tel. +49 40 30703070, www.hl-cruises.com

Hapag-Lloyd Kreuzfahrten GmbH, Ballindamm 25, 20095 Hamburg, Germany, service@hl-cruises.com,

Words by KATE SYMONS

No1 CHANGE COURSE

Get your running shoes on. You’ll either need them for this epic adventure, or you’ll want to run in the other direction!

The 4 Deserts Race Series, comprising four 250-kilometre, self-supported ultramarathons in severe conditions, is the ultimate test of endurance. The series includes the Gobi March in Mongolia, the Atacama Crossing in Chile and The Last Desert in Antarctica, but the first cab off the rank is the Namib Race, held in Namibia in April.

The six-stage race starts with four 40-kilometre days followed by the notorious ‘Long March’, an 80-kilometre stretch that takes place over 24 to 30 hours. The final stage is the ‘easy’ 20-kilometre home straight.

To take their minds off the burn, runners are privy to striking desert scenery as they complete the seven-day event. Spanning 2000 kilometres, the Namib Desert is considered the oldest in the world and the sight of Atlantic waves crashing against desert sands is a powerful one. Massive sand dunes, some more than 300 metres high, gravel plains, mountain outcrops, lone trees and an array of flora and fauna pepper the race route, not to mention the eerie shipwrecks of the Skeleton Coast.

4deserts.com

No2

SADDLE UP

Cue Daryl Braithwaite. Nomadic Expeditions’ Mongolian adventure, From Horses to Reindeer: Horse Trekking to the Tsaatan People, has all the drama of the iconic equine tune and then some.

The eight-day horse trek ventures through picturesque mountains, taiga forests, and idyllic meadows, but don’t be fooled by the storybook scenery – this journey is designed for experienced riders.

Known for its vast, rugged and untouched landscapes, and a rich ancient culture, Mongolia is an adventure in waiting, and a place where more horses than people roam.

Mongolian horses are legendary for their stamina and ability to negotiate difficult terrain, and these attributes serve Nomadic Expeditions’ riders well, too, with about six to eight hours (or 30 to 40 kilometres) spent in the saddle each day.

Travelling through the Khoridal Saridag mountains, riders will journey through the wilderness region of Darkhadyn Khotgor, complete with numerous river crossings, past Targan Nuur Lake, through Jigleg Pass, and along the Har-Us River.

En route, experience the traditional nomadic lifestyle of the Tsaatan people, who herd domesticated reindeer.

nomadicexpeditions.com/northern-mongolia-on-horseback

No3

SERVE & PROTECT

To swim with the sharks is one thing. To swim with the sharks, and then fish, catch, measure, tag, and document vital data, all in the name of conservation and protection, is quite another. And Impact Destinations can make it happen.

Specialising in transformational luxury adventures, Impact Destinations helps the discerning traveller make a genuine difference through philanthropic experiences. Hammerhead shark conservation takes place alongside marine biologists in one of the largest marine protected areas in the world, the Golfo Dulce, in Costa Rica. Or there’s rhino relocation in South Africa, wild salmon conservation in Canada, snow leopard preservation in the Indian Himalayas –the list goes on.

Impact Destinations founder, Christopher Hill, says: “At the luxury level, travellers have ‘been there, done that’, and the opportunity to be transformed by a truly unique encounter, make an impact and leave a legacy is hugely compelling.”

Impact Destinations create tailor-made journeys; just select your destination, activities and philanthropic experiences, and a personalised itinerary will be made to fit.

impactdestinations.com

THINK OUTSIDE THE JEEP No4

Adventure travel equals African safari, or so goes popular belief. And it’s no wonder. The chance to get up close and personal with some of the most magnificent, the most intimidating, the most graceful animals on the planet is pretty tasty bait. Yet thrill-seekers want more than a front-row seat, even if that seat is leather-cushioned comfort in an open-top Jeep. And that’s where exploration safaris come into play.

The Selinda Adventure Trail, from eco-conscious travel company Great Plains Conservation, is a four-day journey in Botswana’s ancient Selinda Spillway, travelling by canoe and on foot. Linking the Okavango Delta with the Linyanti wetlands, the Spillway flows elegantly through the remote woodlands of the 130,000-hectare Selinda Reserve, home to some very famous residents including buffalo, elephant, wildebeest, zebra, lion and leopard. The September departure will mark the final Selinda Adventure Trail, at least for now, but Great Plains have launched an exceptional alternative. The Greater Mana Expedition is a sevenday walking and canoeing safari in the private Sapi Reserve, Zimbabwe. Much of the 118,000-hectare reserve, which borders the famous Mana Pools National Park, is accessible only on foot, making for a dream walking safari with canoes, boats, and the traditional vehicles also on hand.

greatplainsconservation.com

Want to take your fishing game up a notch? Nimmo Bay Wilderness Resort, located in the spectacularly remote Great Bear Rainforest in British Colombia, Canada, has the answer.

No5

GO FISH!

One of National Geographic’s Unique Lodges of the World, the adventure resort is surrounded by 130 square kilometres of pristine conifer forest ready for exploration. And although the lodge offers numerous activities – think whale watching, kayaking, glacier trekking, to name a few – fishing has been the star here since doors opened almost four decades ago.

Heli-fishing allows guests access to more than 50 isolated rivers and streams, and the bird’s-eye-view means you will be where the fish are biting. Discover streams filled with wild Pacific salmon and fish for for coho, chinook, pink and steelhead, as well as Dolly Varden char, rainbow, and cutthroat trout. Fly-fishing is also on the program, whether you’re experienced or want to learn.

Back at the family-owned and operated resort, luxury private inter-tidal chalets replete with exceptional cuisine with a focus on local, seasonal ingredients complete the five-star picture.

Nimmo Bay Wilderness Resort is the only development in the area and is so remote, you’ll have to fly to Vancouver Island and then catch helicopter or float plane to the property’s private dock.

nimmobay.com

No6

A NIGHT ON ICE

There’s no denying Antarctica’s bucket-list credentials, but to truly crank up the adventure factor, we turn to Captain’s Choice.

The luxury travel company’s breathtaking Antarctic Frontiers with Eric Philips itinerary comes complete with a luxurious stay at an exclusive polar camp as well as a night on ice.

Led by Philips, the Australian polar explorer, the 13-day exploration begins at the lavish Cape Grace Hotel in Cape Town before a five-hour private jet flight delivers guests to Queen Maud Land, Antarctica, and the Whichaway Camp.

The first of its kind, and with names such as Buzz Aldrin, Bear Grylls and Prince Harry in its guestbook, Whichaway Camp is an unforgettable experience complete with a grand dining room, lounge room, library and state-of-the-art sleeping domes (heated, of course), as well as gourmet food prepared on site.

The adventure deepens with the optional excursion of flying to the largely inaccessible South Pole for an overnight stay in Arctic Oven tents. The awe-inspiring sight of endless white is humbling. It might be the lowest point on Earth (that’s not covered by ocean), but this is anything but a low point.

captainschoice.com.au

CATCH THE PERFECT WAVE

The Maldives is an iconic holiday destination – a wondrous paradise where watching glittering waves peeling from the pillowy comfort of your resort bed is standard behaviour. But why watch the waves when you can ride them?

Home to some of the best beaches in the world, the Maldives’ unique composition (nearly 1200 islands make up this slice of heaven) means surfers are spoilt for choice with breaks to suit all skill levels.

Get yourself from A to Break with Sea Rex, a custom-built 40-metre yacht that will turn your surf trip into a luxurious floating holiday. Enjoy unparalleled amenities – think private whirlpool, steam and aromatherapy room, and media room –while Sea Rex’s experienced guides lead you through the Maldives’ vast and colourful waterways.

Sea Rex has teamed with The Perfect Wave, the Maldives’ largest surf operator, to deliver its on-board surf program and help guests explore world-class waves (with world-class names) such as Chickens, Jailbreaks, Sultans and Honkeys.

Plus, there are more than a few surfboards in the toy box. Try your hand at water-skiing, windsurfing, jet-skiing, wakeboarding or even seaplane surfing, if you dare.

s-resorts.com/boat/sea-rex-maldives

HEAD SOUTH No8

It’s hard to ignore New Zealand when it comes to adventure travel. It is also hard to choose between the country’s myriad adrenalin-fuelled journeys. On the South Island alone you’re presented with snowcapped mountains, wild beaches, lush forests, turquoise lakes, dreamy fjords, sparkling glaciers…and the rest. Where, oh where to begin?

Well, National Geographic’s South Island Adventure is certainly an impressive start. The multi-sport adventure packs a mighty punch, starting in Nelson on the island’s north shore and continuing to Queenstown via some of the country’s most majestic spots.

En route, hike sections of three of New Zealand’s iconic Great Walks, including the glacially carved wilderness of the Routeburn Track; sea kayak on the coast of Abel Tasman National Park and trek along its soaring cliffs; and cruise past waterfalls on the glorious Milford Sound.

The helicopter flight among the ice-carved peaks of Mount Aspiring National Park is a highlight among highlights. After landing in the remote Siberia Valley, you’ll embark on a hike through beech forest to the Wilkin River before setting off on a thrilling jetboat ride, skimming below snow-dusted peaks and verdant valleys.

The charm of towns such as Nelson and Wanaka, and an introduction to Māori culture, ensures this unforgettable journey is also a holistic one.

nationalgeographic.com/expeditions/destinations/australia-pacific/ active/new-zealand-adventure

SET SAIL No9

The Sydney to Hobart yacht race is an icon. On Boxing Day each year Australians gather – some in living rooms, others with a front-row seat on the Sydney Harbour foreshore – to watch the start of the famous 1000-kilometre race, and interest follows competitors down the east coast until a winner is crowned in Hobart. Perhaps it’s time to get in on the action.

Flying Fish Sailing offers enthusiasts the chance to test their seamanship and the company’s flagship luxury yacht Calypso is just the vessel for the job. The beautifully appointed Moody 54 Deck Saloon features premium accommodation and communal spaces, but it’s the sailing you’re here for, right?

Recommended for guests with some offshore sailing experience, the Sydney to Hobart Luxury Yacht Campaign starts with five days of skills and drills on Sydney Harbour before the 24-hour offshore qualifying passage, a race requirement. Then, after some well-earned rest, it’s go time. Soak up the incomparable atmosphere as a participant on the start line, revel in the celebrations as you cross the finish line at Constitution Bay, and savour the beauty and the battle of sailing in between. And, as if you needed another excuse to party, the schedule should have you in Hobart in time for New Year’s Eve.

flyingfishsailing.com.au/120-sydney-to-hobart-luxury-yacht-campaign

DRIVE AN ICON

Home to mouth-watering cuisine, exceptional wine, pristine countryside and the fastest of fast cars, it’s no wonder Italy is a travel heavyweight. And Ultimate Driving Tours’ Supercar Tour d’Italia combines the lot.

The tour puts guests, quite literally, in the driver’s seat across six turbocharged days travelling from Milano to Lake Como. Experience a jaw-dropping fleet of some the world’s best supercars, including the Ferrari 458 Spider, Lamborghini Aventador LP700, Porsche 911 Turbo, and Aston Martin DB11, while cruising Italy’s best roads en route to awardwinning dining and five-star accommodation.

Tackle hairpins, switchbacks, and lazy bends, not to mention the world-famous Stelvio Pass, a journey as challenging as it is breathtaking.

The tour, which also takes in Maranello, Verona, Bolzano and Bormio, includes an exclusive VIP tour of Museo Ferrari and the option to get behind the wheel of the Ferrari 488 and Lamborghini Huracan SuperTrofeo during a private track day.

As an optional extra, the 2019 tour culminates with a weekend at the Italian Grand Prix, one of the longest running and most celebrated races on the F1 calendar. Now you’re torque-ing!

ultimatedrivingtours.com

WALK THIS WAY No11

Trekking tends to be part and parcel of most holidays, whether you’re traipsing between sights or heading back and forth at the breakfast buffet. But there’s a big difference between trekking on holiday and a trekking holiday.

Celebrating 50 years in 2019, MT Sobek is a world leader in adventure travel, and hiking and trekking journeys are a specialty. On an impressive catalogue of adventures, it’s hard to go past the company’s Dolomites Hut-to-Hut Trek – a hardcore 11-day hike taking in the spectacular Italian mountain range

Led by legendary MT Sobek guide Sergio FitchWatkins, this trek covers some of the highest and most famous Dolomites peaks, including a 13-kilometre mission on the Alpe di Siusi, the tallest high-altitude alpine plateau in Europe. You’ll explore historic remnants of World War I; summit Piz Boe, the Stella group’s highest mountain at 3152 metres; and admire Serrai di Sottoguda, a scenic canyon created by glacier erosion.

Accommodation en route includes five nights in mountain rifugios (huts), accessible only by foot and set in spectacular isolation.

mtsobek.com/trips/europe/italy/dolomites-hut-to-hut-trek/

No12 A HIGHER POWDER

Hans Gmoser invented modern heliskiing. He also founded CMH, so it’s no wonder the Canadian heliskiing and heli-hiking company is the world’s largest and one of the most celebrated. A true pioneer, Gmoser staked out a 1.2 million hectare region in British Columbia, Canada, making CMH’s private reserve 23 times larger than all the skiable terrain of every North American resort combined.

CMH operates 12 lodges – two in mountain towns and 10 in heliaccessed backcountry. CMH Valemount is one of the sport’s finest and most exclusive heli-skiing experiences, with more than 500 runs and 1489 square kilometres to conquer as well as your own private helicopter on call.

The 10-room Valemount lodge is located in the remote Cariboo mountain range. Access is by private jet and the amenities are fivestar – think hot tubs, massages and cosy fireplaces, all complemented by exceptional cuisine courtesy of a private chef.

Back on the powder, a plethora of long, steep tree runs and wide-open glaciers will keep skiers utterly exhilarated. If you can be pried off your skis or snowboard, snowmobiling, dogsledding and snowshoeing await.

cmhheli.com/our-lodges/valemount

No13

OFF THE GRID

Don Sheldon, a renowned aviator and mountaineer, pioneered the technique of glacier landings in the 1950s and 60s. The Don Sheldon Amphitheatre, carved over millennia by the ice of Ruth Glacier, bears his famous name.

Sitting within this striking ring of mountaintops, on a rocky pinnacle known as a nunatak, is Sheldon Chalet, another grand legacy of this Alaskan explorer.

Set 1830 metres in elevation, and just 16 kilometres from the 6190-metre summit of Denali, Sheldon Chalet is a five-room luxury lodge designed to capture the breathtaking majesty of its environment.

At Sheldon Chalet, this imposing beauty is referred to as “adventuring in place”, but the surrounding wilderness is an adventurer’s playground, too, with glacier exploration, abseiling, sledding and mountaineering all part of the experience.

Stark isolation is also part of the lodge’s appeal. The Alaskan property is accessible only by helicopter from the town of Talkeetna. Plus, the elevation combined with clear mountain air makes Sheldon an ideal vantage point to catch the magic of the Northern Lights.

sheldonchalet.com

FISH THE REEF

The pristine fishing environments of Far North Queensland are unbeatable. Well, almost unbeatable. Venture into that big deep blue via a multi-million-dollar trilevel yacht and then you’ve nailed true fishing perfection. Far North Queensland Sports Fishing (FNSF) combines highadrenalin fishing and high-end luxury with its small group day trips or liveaboard charters exploring the tropical waters of the Great Barrier Reef.

From fresh- and salt-water fly to heavy-tackle reef fishing, FNSF adventures put fishers among species such as Spanish mackerel, giant trevally, mahi mahi, barramundi, and black marlin.

The 20-metre Blue Martini is the company’s ‘mothership’, a fully staffed and newly refitted yacht featuring large living spaces, a spacious sundeck and, importantly, a well-stocked wine cellar and on-board chef. Blue Martini operates with four smaller vessels that whisk guests off to the region’s ultimate fishing hotspots – and there are plenty.

The Northern Exposure charter delivers guests to the renowned and rarely visited reef systems, including Ribbon reef flats and St Crispins, where sights are set on coral trout, wahoo and giant trevally, among others.

The six-day Remote Barra Expedition, which starts in style with a two-hour low-level helicopter flight to Princess Charlotte Bay, targets the likes of fingermark, queenfish, nannygai and, of course, barramundi.

Bespoke tours are also available with add-ons such as snorkelling, diving, kayaking, stand-up paddle boarding and even whale watching.

farnorthsportsfishing.com

SPACED OUT

When it comes to new-frontier travel experiences, there’s nothing quite like venturing beyond Earth’s bounds. And such an adventure, once reserved for sci-fi films and creative imaginations, could now be reality – if, that is, you have a spare US$55 million.

Renowned luxury travel firm Roman & Erica, Inc. has teamed up with Axiom Space, the privately owned successor to the International Space Station (ISS), to send the first commercial travellers into orbit more than 400 kilometres above Earth.

Prices for a 10-day stay on the ISS will start at US$55 million (about A$76 million) per person and will include 15 weeks of training alongside career astronauts, roundtrip transportation on a SpaceX rocket, as well as the time in orbit. There’s also a 60-day option for the ‘costeffective’ price of US$80 million.

Luxurious touches aren’t lost in space. ‘Habitation modules’ are designed by Phillipe Starck and come complete with large observation windows, perfect for wide-eyed gazing at Earth from above.

Roman & Erica, Inc. co-founder Roman Chiporukha says: “Space travel in 100 years may become the new normal but for now, this unexplored terrain holds infinite possibilities for the consumer to experience.”

Reservations are now open with the first mission –if you choose to accept it – scheduled for 2020.

romananderica.com

OARSOME RAPIDS No16

Ahhhh, serene river, gently winding through lush valleys, and washing a sense of calm over all who watch on. Not today! Patagonia’s mighty Futaleufu River, Chile, is considered one of the world’s premier whitewater rafting rivers, delivering riotous rapids under the snow-capped Andes.

Bio Bio Expeditions’ nine-day adventure on Futaleufu’s turquoise waters is billed as a multi-sport experience, but whitewater rafting is, without doubt, King. Rafting ranges from Class III (moderately difficult) to Class V (extremely difficult) and includes Inferno Canyon, a five-kilometre stretch of Class V whitewater sure to get the heart pumping. Only the “extraordinarily difficult” Class VI is considered more challenging.

In contrast, there are also opportunities to simply drift while activities off the ‘Fu’ include inflatable kayaking, fishing, hiking, mountain biking, horseback riding, yoga and salsa dancing.

Set on Futaleufu’s turquoise waters, basecamp comprises glamping-style tents as well as riverside hot tubs, a wood-fired sauna and sunset bar. Even arrival is special. The scenic flight over Patagonia Fjords and equally beautiful transfer through temperate rainforest, via waterfalls and hanging glaciers surrounded by jagged mountain peaks, will set the mood.

bbxrafting.com/futaleufu-rafting-multi-sport

No17

GET WRECKED

There are shades of blue you probably thought impossible to be found in the flawless waters of the Solomon Islands. Add vibrant coral reefs, magnificent drop-offs and abundant marine life, and you have yourself a bona fide underwater wonderland. Moreover, this nearly 1000-island archipelago is also an underwater graveyard.

Dozens of destroyers, military ships and aircraft rest in these crystal-clear waters, all casualties of the Battle of Guadalcanal, a series of land and sea clashes between Allied and Japanese forces during World War II.

These incredible remnants of history make the Solomon Islands one of the world’s most revered dive sites. Wrecks are scattered and suit various skills levels, from easily accessible shore dives to deeper challenges such as the USS Aaron Ward, the imposing destroyer resting upright at Iron Bottom Sound, at an average depth of about 60 metres.

While Solomon Islands tourism isn’t in the advanced stages of some of its Pacific neighbours such as Fiji and Vanuatu, the natural beauty and absence of crowds combine for blissful stripped-back luxury.

Dive Adventures can help travellers create a bespoke itinerary including the best dive sites and accommodations.

diveadventures.com.au

No18

TEST LE TOUR

Broadcast in 130 countries, the Tour de France is followed by a massive 3.5 billion viewers. And they’re tuning in not only to cycling’s premium event, but to rolling coverage of some of the most beautiful landscapes imaginable.

Taste-test both by joining Sojourn’s six-day bike and hike tour, starting in picture-perfect Annecy, finishing in the glamorous ski-resort town of Chamonix, and exploring the dramatic vistas of the Rhone Alps in between.

Significantly, the itinerary includes a section of the 2018 Tour de France, putting riders on the famous switchbacks between the town of Bluffy and the storybook village of La Clusaz. You’ll also pedal past pristine Lake Annecy and La Tournette mountain, through the charming villages of Flumet and Megève, and around Chamonix, delightfully set at the base of Mont Blanc, Western Europe’s tallest mountain.

In Chamonix, and out of the saddle, hike up the Grand Balcon Sud of Mont Blanc, along wooded canyons, lush meadows and wide rocky expanses, and explore the Mer De Glace, France’s largest glacier. At the end of each day, luxury accommodation will well and truly aid recovery.

gosojourn.com/bicycle-tours/chamonix-annecy-rhonealps-france-hike-bike-tour

HOLD YOUR HORSES

Cowboy by day, R&R by night – this is the quintessential Dude Ranch experience of America’s West and The Resort at Paws Up, located in Greenough, Montana, adds a serious dose of luxury to the adventure.

Set on 15,000 hectares of a working homestead, Paws Up combines the undeniable wonders of nature and a smorgasbord of activities with the finest facilities, cuisine, and service.

With 160 kilometres of trails, 16 kilometres of the Blackfoot River and more than 4000 square kilometres of the nearby Bob Marshall Wilderness Area, activities are available in abundance. Options include fly-fishing, all-terrain vehicle tours, abseiling, kayaking, and so much more, but the key to a Dude Ranch experience is its horseback adventures.

Saddle up and set off with a wrangler to explore the pristine surroundings or, for more experienced riders, head off the hoof-beaten track – up rocky trails, across beautifully clear creeks and deep into Montana’s Big Sky Country – with the all-day Frontiersman Ride. To awaken your inner wrangler, join a Paws Up cattle drive and help find, collect and push 360-kilogram Corriente cows into picturesque pastures.

Paws Up is also a great choice for families with accommodation, activities and packages all aimed to suit those travelling with kids. Giddy up!

pawsup.com

No20

LIFE IS A HIGHWAY

Want to feel the wind in your hair? A blustery 165-kilometre motorcycle ride across Tajikistan’s Aksu River valley should do it. Spectacular high-altitude landscapes await in the Central Asian nation, a truly off-the-beatentrack destination with plenty to offer thrill-seekers.

Silk Road Adventures’ Tajikistan Pamir Explorer by Motorcycle is one such thrill, a 14-day journey through extraordinary terrain including the Pamir Mountains, or the ‘Roof of the World’. Known locally as Bam-i-Dunya, this spectacular range sits dramatically at the junction of the Himalayas with the Tian Shan, Karakoram, Kunlun, Hindu Kush, Suleman and Hindu Raj ranges.

With China to the right and Afghanistan at the rear, this is one of the most remote tri-borders in the world, and if the geography alone isn’t enough, the resident yaks, eagles, Kyrgyz nomads and fat golden marmots surely sweeten the deal.

As well as travel the Pamir Highway, the world’s second highest road at 4655 metres, riders will head into untouched valleys and ranges, making this a challenge suitable only for experienced offroad riders.

silkroad-adventures.com/tours/tajikistan-pamir-explorer-motorcycle

into THE

BROOK SABIN EXPLORES REMOTE AND UNSPOILED MARINE TERRITORY ABOARD THE EXQUISITELY REFURBISHED REGENT SEVEN SEAS MARINER

So this is what Captain Cook felt like: I’m headed towards one of the most remote parts of the world; 12 ancient volcanoes that form a far-flung archipelago called the Marquesas Islands. It’s a place where everything is on a grand scale; you can find a ‘wall’ of up to 700 sharks in one spot, a waterfall taller than Melbourne’s Eureka Tower and a way of life that is shrouded in mystery.

Okay, so full disclosure: my experience is unlikely to resemble Captain Cook’s journey to the Marquesas. I’m aboard a luxury cruise ship, complete with a swimming-pool-size cellar of fine wine. White-gloved butlers in black suits are buzzing around the ship. While I’m writing this they are bringing fresh grapes to our suite. Apparently, there are more than 500 refrigerated bags below deck. There won’t be any scurvy here. Champagne is being chilled in an ice bucket on our veranda, and we’re waiting for fresh scallops to be delivered by room service.

We’re on one of the world’s most beautiful cruise routes, from Hawaii to Tahiti, and doing it in serious style – aboard the six-star Regent Seven Seas Mariner. This is a grand two-week itinerary; we’ll be at sea for four days to reach French Polynesia, then we’ll explore the far reaches of the archipelago. These are places that most people have never heard of, let alone dream of one day visiting.

Rewind to the start of the trip in Waikiki, and we’re sipping cocktails and juggling a seemingly endless supply of canapes on the top deck of the ship, as the pulsing skyline of Honolulu fades into the distance. I’ve already ducked below deck to look around and accidentally come across the gym. Ha! Good try. Running out of Champagne is my cardio.

I quickly get lost in the labyrinth of cocktail bars, restaurants and a grand foyer that stretches seven floors – with glass elevators gliding gracefully up the side. The ship is small by cruise standards, with a capacity for just 700 guests, and it’s recently emerged from a US$125-million makeover. We’re in the ship’s smallest room category, but in true Regent style, it’s big: complete with a marble bathroom, a separate walk-in-wardrobe, lounge and balcony. Our fellow cruisers are mostly North American retirees, but there

are a few younger couples also joining the trip of a lifetime.  Floating palace aside, there is nothing quite like waking up and not knowing what the view from bed will be. Our first daybreak revealed the biggest mountain in the world, its peak glowing pink in the first light of the day. I know what you’re thinking: ‘Did you drink too much Champagne? Are you in some sort of hallucinatory grape depression imagining the ship is floating around the oceanless Himalayas?’ No, but I understand your thinking. Our first stop is best known as The Big Island (or officially Hawaii) and it’s a vast volcanic wonderland; a place where the planet creates itself in front of your eyes. It was home to last year’s devastating Kilauea lava flows and is also where you’ll find the biggest mountain in the world, Mauna Kea. Let me qualify that before you start racing to

A

US$125million bow-to-stern refurbishment has put the six-star Regent Seven Seas Mariner in a new class.

Google. Yes, Mount Everest is the tallest at 8850 metres above sea level. But when you measure Mauna Kea from where she starts, at the bottom of the ocean, right to the peak, she’s 10,210 metres in total. By far the biggest.

That night the ship headed towards French Polynesia, with four full days at sea until we saw land again. What followed was four days of decadence. Regent proudly states it’s the most inclusive luxury cruise in the world, and I was sure to do everything I could to test that promise. From Champagne and caviar in the morning, freshly cooked pastries, fine dining restaurants, barista coffee, handmade gelato – everything is on a grand scale. And it’s all included in the price. When they say 24-hour room service, you can order lobster to your suite at 3am if your crustacean levels need an emergency overnight boost. Then there are the nightly shows featuring acts such as a Grammy-nominated saxophone player or impressive productions featuring the ship’s dancers and orchestra. Waiters even buzz around the theatre filling up wine glasses between acts.

Four days, and a few belt-buckle sizes later, we spotted our first land – the towering silhouette of Nuku Hiva, one of French Polynesia’s most remote islands and home to the capital of >>

The Mariner’s teak pool deck is one of the most expansive at sea, and includes a large heated pool and two whirlpools.

the Marquesas. This rocky land, with lush scenery reminiscent of Jurassic Park, is almost completely untouched by the modern world. The island has vast mountains that almost look as if they’re falling into the ocean; the force of nature here over the years has been extraordinary.

We’re taken up to Taipivai Valley, home to an enormous waterfall – higher than any tower in Australia. Horses roam free, and smiles from the locals roam even freer as we stop at a village for a feast of fruit. Seeing foreigners in this part of the world is rare; seeing a group of 30 of us is a spectacle the entire village is invited to.

We then sailed for two days to an idyllic sandy atoll called Fakarava. Unlike the towering Nuku Hiva, the highest point here is less than a metre off the ground. We spend the day falling asleep under a coconut tree, jumping in and out of the topaz waters to cool down. This place is legendary in the diving world – it’s a UNESCO underwater reserve. At an entrance to the atoll, hundreds of sharks feast on thousands of grouper that gather to breed.

Bora Bora, our next stop, I’ll remember forever. As our ship sailed into the lagoon, framed against its iconic soaring

peaks, the couple in front of us started to cry and hug. After a poignant moment, they turned to us and explained they’d always dreamed of coming here. And what was to unfold that day didn’t disappoint. While Bora Bora is home to almost impossible beauty above water, below the surface it’s equally mesmerising: nature’s sunken garden. We opted for a shark and stingray snorkel, which was nowhere near as scary as it sounds. The small sharks are afraid of you, and the stingrays in the lagoon are almost like Labradors of the sea with their ultra-friendly and gentle nature. If you prefer to keep the blood pressure in check, there are plenty of other options such as spending the day on a private island.

The next few days included magnificent trips to the islands of Raiatea and Moorea, with more snorkel stops, private beach days, and a visit to the island of Taha’a, which produces so much vanilla you can smell it as soon as you step off the jetty. The choice of free tours each day was astounding: from a luxury catamaran trip around the lagoon complete with drinks and nibbles to a photography tour by Jeep up into the mountains.

By the time we docked in Tahiti, our final stop, a lot of us were devising a way to become stowaways – we didn’t want it to end. It’s a cruise I’ll, quite literally, take with me forever. Yes, that’s because I’m carrying a few more kilos, a constant reminder of the time I tried to become a modern-day Captain Cook.

The Details

Regent Seven Seas Cruises operate four ships to more than 450 destinations. Cruises are all-inclusive, covering dining, beverages (apart from ultra-premium wines and spirits), dozens of free excursions, room service and gratuities.

A 15-night cruise from Hawaii to French Polynesia, aboard Seven Seas Navigator, departs 15 January 2021. Prices start from A$9460 per person. For more information, including other itineraries, visit rssc.com.

ALASKAN ADVENTURES

EXCLUSIVE ONBOARD CREDIT ONLY AVAILABLE THROUGH CRUISECO#

GREAT OUTDOORS VOYAGE

Cruise departs 29 May & 6 Aug 2019 Aboard Regatta

GLACIERS & GARDENS

Cruise departs 29 Jun 2019 Aboard Regatta

GLACIAL ADVENTURES

Cruise departs 27 Aug 2019 Aboard Regatta

18 night holiday includes:

• Airfare to Vancouver, returning from Seattle

• 2 night pre-cruise stay at the Shangri-La Vancouver incl. breakfast

• 14 night cruise from Vancouver to Seattle

• All main meals+ and entertainment whilst onboard

• 2 night post-cruise stay at the Fairmont Olympic Hotel Seattle incl. breakfast

• Transfer between airport, hotel & port

$12,920pp*

14 night holiday includes:

• Airfare to Vancouver, returning from Seattle

• 2 night pre-cruise stay at the Vancouver Marriott Pinnacle Hotel incl. breakfast

• 10 night cruise from Vancouver to Seattle

• All main meals+ and entertainment whilst onboard

• 2 night post-cruise stay at the Fairmont Olympic Hotel Seattle incl. breakfast

• Transfers between airport, hotel & port

Inside from Outside from Balcony from $8,115pp* $8,245pp* $10,815pp*

12 night holiday includes:

• Return airfare to Seattle

• 2 night pre-cruise stay at the Fairmont Olympic Hotel Seattle incl. breakfast

• 10 night cruise from Seattle return

• All main meals+ and entertainment whilst onboard

• Transfers between airport, hotel & port

Inside from Outside from Balcony from $6,815pp* $7,085pp* $9,515pp*

COMPLIMENTARY INCLUSIONS:

*Prices are per person in AUD, based in the lead-in twin-share suite accommodation in the specified category, inclusive of Economy Class airfare ex Australia (Sydney, Melbourne or Brisbane) and air taxes, port charges, government fees, hotel taxes and gratuities, correct as at 31 January 2019. Valid until 31 March 2019, capacity controlled, subject to change/availability, is not combinable with other offers and may be withdrawn/ changed at any time. Some Oceanview cabins are obstructed. #Shipboard credit is a combination of the O-Life Choice onboard credit and Cruiseco Exclusive onboard credit, is in US$ per stateroom, is non-refundable, has no cash value, expires at the end of that cruise, and can be withdrawn at anytime without notice. Shipboard credit advertised is based on guests choosing shipboard credit as their O-life choice perk. Guests will receive less shipboard credit if they choose a different perk Exclusive shipboard credit varies depending on the length of the cruise. ^Unlimited internet is valid for one device, per stateroom. Cancellation penalties and conditions apply.

FREE Dining at all specialty restaurants FREE Unlimited soft drinks, bottled water, cappuccino, espresso, teas and juices

FREE 24-hour room service FREE Shuttle service from ship to city centre in many ports of call (where available)

FREE internet^ Gratuities included

Regatta

SLOW TAKE IT

MOBILE TRAVEL AGENTS

CHIEF EXECUTIVE, DON BEATTIE , EXPLAINS

THE BEAUTY OF LIFE IN THE SLOW LANE, OR THE SLOW CANAL AS IT WERE

GOING SLOW IS DEFINITELY ‘A LA MODE’ AND SEEN BY MANY these days as an unbeatable way to travel. And exploring a country by barge is slow travel in its purest form.

Barge travel enables you to stop whenever you please and immerse yourself in the people, places and events, creating the kind of unforgettable memories that elude those in a haste to get going.

If you have ever considered going slow, barging the Canal du Midi in the South of France is the way to do it. For the ultimate in luxury, consider chartering the beautiful Belmond Alouette in summer as she meanders her way from Carcassonne to Beziers taking in the tranquil countryside.

MTA – Mobile Travel Agents Pty Ltd (MTA) has long been associated with Belmond, the luxe brand behind the famous Hotel Cipriani in Venice, Copacabana Palace in Rio de Janeiro and the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express train.

Belmond has well a truly earned its reputation as a leader in luxury travel experiences. Like MTA, Belmond believes the experience had and memories made are just as important as simply fulfilling a travel request. A Belmond Alouette journey is testament to that ethos, and I am lucky enough to know this first-hand. >>

“The southern French countryside is every bit as picturesque as your imagination might suggest. In fact, you could be excused for conjuring up memories of The Wind in the Willows and almost expect to see French versions Rat and Mole on one of their adventures.”

One of the larger vessels to operate on Canal du Midi, the Belmond Alouette is beautiful in every respect, standing out from the crowd with her burgundy hull contrasted with subtle whites and creams. The vessel’s two cabins are spacious and have well-appointed en suites, furnishings are plush and comfortable in the below-deck lounge and dining area, and topside presents the perfect venue for dining al fresco while charming scenery slowly slips past.

Then there is the integral crew of four. In our case a French captain, a Scottish chef, an English hostess and a French tour guide, each excellent in his or her role – friendly, professional and as engaging as you wish. There never seemed to be any reason to ask for something – that cup of tea, glass of wine or delicious snack seemed to appear just at the right time and delivered to taste.

With Belmond, such attention to detail is in place long before travel begins. A Belmond representative was even on hand to escort us from our hotel to our train seats for the pre-canal leg to our journey’s starting point in Trebes.

About that journey: the southern French countryside is every bit as picturesque as your imagination might suggest. In fact, you could be excused for conjuring up memories of The Wind in the Willows and almost expect to see French versions of Rat and Mole on one of their adventures. The breeze on your skin, the feeling of peace is broken only by the warning from the Captain as he prepares to lower the upper-deck canopy to clear one of the route’s many stone bridges.

We meandered past picturesque Trebes, historic Carcassonne and Narbonne, each as beautiful as the next. Yet it was the activities en route that made our adventure so memorable: joining our chef in bustling French markets; walking the towers and city walls of medieval Carcassonne; discovering a jousting tournament complete with lance-bearing knights in armour aboard magnificent steeds; walking the ancient Cathar stronghold of Minerve, famously besieged by Simon de Montford in the 13th century; private wine tasting at awardwinning Chateau Massamier La Mignarde.

And what would a visit to France be without a visit to a local goat farm to see how the famous local cheeses are made and, more importantly, how good they are to eat? So good, in fact, we purchased several that, along with a very good local wine, were thoroughly enjoyed that evening once back on-board.

They say all good things must come to an end and it was with a degree of sadness we departed the Belmond Alouette and our wonderful crew who had quite successfully made us feel like Kings and Queens.

The Details

MTA Advisors are well versed in the capabilities of their preferred travel suppliers. MTA only work with the best, such as Belmond, to ensure a unique travel experience for customers. Many MTA Advisors are also extensive travellers, bringing an added level of expertise.

If you would like to find out more about this kind of experience, or any other luxury travel, please contact MTA on (07) 5593 3322 and we will put you in touch with one of our Expert Travel Advisors. mtatravel.com.au

Basque BUST OR

WHILE A VISIT TO BASQUE COUNTRY MEANS ‘FIRST STOP, SAN SEBASTIAN’ FOR MANY, BARRY STONE DISCOVERS THE REGION’S TOURISM APPEAL EXTENDS WELL BEYOND THE POPULAR BEACHSIDE PLAYGROUND

THE HOTEL MARIA CRISTINA, WHICH TRIUMPHANTLY opened its doors in the northern Spanish town of San Sebastian in 1912 and has been the city’s premier address ever since, has a single Belle Époque rooftop cupola that rises above its northeast corner and which, like the hotel itself, has been a city landmark from the day it was finished. But from my perspective it was more than that. It was the roof over my oval-shaped living room. Evocative of a town once declared by the hotel’s first-ever guest, Queen Regent Maria Cristina of Spain, to be the “summer capital of Europe”, the cupola adorns the Royal Terrace Suite, the grandest hotel room in one of Europe’s most desirable resorts.

The room, though, comes with a twist. Here, where Queen Cristina herself must surely have slept, I had a decision to make. There were pintxos (a subtle variation on tapas) bars to visit, alleyways around the old port to wander, and the sweeping white arc of La Concha beach to stroll – and to be seen to stroll. But doing all that meant forsaking not just the suite, but two quite spectacularly furnished north and east-facing private rooftop terraces.

Sometimes having the best room in a city can be a real impediment to exploration. A good problem to have.

San Sebastian sits on the Bay of Biscay in the independentminded Basque region of northern Spain where the Basque language is still spoken by almost one in three of its inhabitants, which explains all the dual signage. The language, including five historic dialects, is the oldest in Europe with no known links to any other spoken tongue – what linguists call a language isolate. Its prevalence has grown since the 1975 demise of the Spanish dictator Francisco Franco, who saw it as a threat to Spanish nationalism. Any attempt at understanding its peculiarities and the odd mingling of the letters k and z will benefit the visitor. For example, there are no swear words in Basque, so if you hear two locals vigorously disputing, say, a traffic infringement, it’s likely they’ll eventually revert to Spanish, which has swear words aplenty. It’s also handy for filling in linguistic gaps. For instance, there’s no precise Spanish word for ‘very light rain’, but in Basque it is xirimiri. San Sebastian itself is Donostia, and erdera – with a barely disguised sense of primacy – is simply any language in the world that is not Basque.

Gastronomically San Sebastian punches way, way above its weight with several Michelin-starred restaurants including the threestarred Arzak, considered by many to be the finest restaurant in Spain, and the two-starred Mugaritz, still in the World’s Best Top 10 after 10 years. With the exception of Kyoto in Japan there are more Michelin stars here per square metre than any city in the world.

And then there is Mimo, a luxury cooking school attached to the Hotel Maria Cristina established by English expat Jon Warren. Now a local celebrity, Warren arrived here in 2008 with nothing but a suitcase and, realising visitors wanted help exploring the region’s culinary terrain, began his own pintxos bar tours. In 2009 he founded San Sebastian Food – now Mimo – and you can spend a day here cooking under the guidance of a specialty chef in its stunningly appointed cooking school, a concept that has been awarded the Starwood Innovation Award for Europe, Middle East and Africa.

At the other end of the sophistication scale, but lying at the very heart of the city’s gastronomic life are, of course, its famous pintxos bars, a greater concentration of which you’ll not find anywhere

Above left: The rooftop cupola at Hotel Maria Christina.

Above: The Mimo cooking school is an institution.

else in Spain. Pintxos, from the verb ‘to pierce’, uses toothpicks to skewer myriad delicacies onto pieces of bread, and at places like La Viña at the back of the old town you’ll find Spanish classics like boquerones (pickled anchovies high on diced garlic) and a bar as crowded as a Tokyo subway. But the best way to experience pintxos is not to focus so much on the famous ‘must-see’ bars, but rather dive into the maelstrom and follow your senses.

Beyond San Sebastian, medieval Laguardia is a 10th-century fortified hill town surrounded by the vineyards of the Rioja Alavesa, first planted here by the ancient Phoenicians, a wine known for its pronounced vanillas. Laguardia’s balcony-laden alleyways are charming, its defensive walls still intact, and behind them its residents live relaxed and connected lives in an enviable example of the concept of ‘close living’. A historically dry country, Spain’s scarce water sources meant towns developed in proximity to each other, which laid a foundation not only for communal living but also for communal eating. In an interesting social quirk people rarely have friends to their homes for meals, preferring instead to >>

Traditional basque architecture (top) and pintxos bars (above) are hallmarks of the region.

Left: Ysios winery cuts a striking figure in Laguardia.

gather in large and often impromptu groups at the town’s cafes and restaurants, which sit above the more than 250 wine ‘caves’ that lie beneath the town’s cobbled streets.

And there is some weighty art in the Basque region too, though I’ve always considered large-scale public art to be the poor cousin of the ‘correct’ sort you see on museum walls and such. And what an impoverished view that was, I thought, as I came face-to-face with the legacy of the great Basque sculptor Eduardo Chillida and the 150 confronting examples of his work at the Museo Chillida Leku, 20 minutes’ drive south of San Sebastian.

Born in San Sebastian in 1924, Chillida’s monumental abstract sculptures in stone, steel, cast iron and alabaster burst forth with movement, tension and energy, and to walk through it all was a transformative experience: subtlety, lightness and grace in objects that need cranes to move them. Chillida’s open-air museum, on the site of an old farm, was his personal vision, a space where people could walk among his works, as the artist himself put it, “as if strolling through the woods”.

Further west is the historic city of Bilbao, founded in 1300. The Basque region’s largest metropolis, Bilbao has been enjoying a tourism renaissance since 1997 thanks to one of architect Frank Gehry’s finest creations (and home to several works by Chillida): the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao.

Years ago I happened to visit Gehry’s family home in Santa Monica, Los Angeles, which he ‘embellished’ in 1978 – when almost 50 years of age – using chain-link fencing, corrugated iron and a

mix of other elements years before he achieved widespread fame. Now here I was, on the banks of Bilbao’s Nervión river, looking at the fanciful ribbons of titanium that prompted architect Philip Johnson to call it “the greatest building of our time”. How does one, I wondered, go from Santa Monica … to this?

The way the Guggenheim Bilbao has so spectacularly reinvigorated a decaying port area once full of shuttered factories to the point where it has re-purposed even the city itself, now has a name. City planners the world over call it ‘The Bilbao Effect’.

If you come here just to see this building and its contents, your time would be entirely justified. And the best place to stay if you do is the Gran Hotel Domine directly across the street with Guggenheim View rooms that guarantee Gehry’s shimmering masterpiece can be the first thing you see when you wake up, and the last before you go to sleep.

And I’d defy even the inventive Basques to come up with a word to convey the sheer joy of that.

The Details

Luxury travel company Abercrombie & Kent specialises in private and small group journeys to Spain. An eight-day journey in northern Spain, including two nights at Hotel El Palace Barcelona, two nights at Hotel Maria Cristina San Sebastian, two nights at Gran Hotel Domine Bilbao and two nights at Hotel Orfila Madrid with extensive private touring costs from $14,855 per person, twin share. For more information and bookings, call 1300 590 317 or visit abercrombiekent.com.au.

The impressive Guggeheim Museum in Bilbao as seen from Gran Hotel Domine.

IRISH CHARM

IT TOOK NINE YEARS TO RESTORE IRELAND’S REVERED BALLYFIN HOTEL AND, AS ROBIN VENTURELLI DISCOVERS, THE RESULT IS THE GOLD STANDARD IN GRANDEUR

IN THE CONTEXT OF LUXURY TRAVEL, IT’S NOT UNCOMMON to be invited to treat your sleeping quarters as if it were your own home. So it was no surprise when the courteous suggestion was made during our post check-in tour of Ballyfin Demesne, an exquisite 19th-century mansion nestled in the serene Irish countryside. Yet, as our tour progressed – through meandering meadows, charming apple orchards, lush walled gardens – this grand Regency estate grew further and further from life at home … in the best possible way.

Ballyfin boasts a rich evolution, one that only adds to the hotel’s sense of grandeur. The current property was built in 1820 by Sir Charles Coote and remained in the family for 100 years before spending much of the 20th century as a muchloved Patrician Brothers School. The property was purchased in 2002 in a state of disrepair and reopened in 2011 following a painstaking restoration. And as we approach the Irish gem, located in County Laois about 100 kilometres southwest of Dublin, those nine years materialise in spectacular form.

As our car pulls up, a uniformed maid and butler greet us in true Downton Abbey fashion. Inside we are offered a choice of Champagne or homemade cider from the property’s 50-year-old Pink Discovery apple orchard. Although it is set on almost 250 hectares – at the foot of the Slieve Bloom Mountains no less – Ballyfin has just 20 rooms, delivering an intimacy that adds to the appeal. The property can be explored by foot, bicycle, horseback, carriage or golf cart. It includes a man-made lake (the largest in Ireland), grassy meadows and ferneries, stables, a Gardener’s Cottage, horse pastures, and a reproduction stone tower (built as a folly) with views of a dozen counties.

Looking up at Ballyfin is just as much of a delight as gazing around, thanks to intricate ceiling and cornices, and stainedglass skylights that let in a dreamy light. The chandelier, meanwhile, once belonged to Napoleon Bonaparte’s sister. In the library, built-in mahogany bookcases are filled with

antique books but it’s the secret door hidden among the shelves that truly delivers on wow factor. The door leads to a sun-drenched conservatory, a translucent dome structure supported by a delicate wrought-iron frame and comprising 4000 sheets of glass.

Activities are offered daily and include falconry, horse riding, archery, air rifle and clay pigeon shooting, fishing, and boating. There is also an indoor swimming pool, gym, and spa. A favourite with the ladies is the Costume Room, where racks of elegant frocks, accessories and debonair garb (acquired from Chicago’s Lyric Opera House) could easily transport you to bygone days of playing dressups. I cannot help myself. I select a 200-year-old peacock feather fascinator and a turquoise silk dress with delightfully puffy sleeves. I received much-needed assistance with my corset while my >>

husband begrudgingly put on a Napoleon-esque hat and topcoat. Amid the fun, we wonder what outfits Kim and Kanye selected when they honeymooned here.

The staff at Ballyfin is unparalleled, and not just for the effort it took to tighten the corset! No guest preference goes unremembered; no peat-scented fireplace goes unstoked; no request goes unfulfilled. General Manager, Damien Bastiat, offers some insight: “Skill can be taught, personalities cannot.”

Delightfully, the personality extends to the guestrooms, each unique and titled according to decor. The Marquis de Massigny room, named after a French nobleman with a Coote-family connection, features French antiques, a clawfoot tub, and a

toile-draped bed as well as two crystal chandeliers and original 18th-century oil paintings. Modern luxuries are cleverly hidden behind the period armoires and vanities.

Ballyfin’s multi-course dinner menu, designed by Head Chef Sam Moody, features a choice of three, five or eight courses with or without paired wines. The tomato, basil, buffalo mozzarella, and lobster appetizer; pan-fried scallops with Jerusalem artichoke, lemon and purslane; and Freshford spring lamb with barley, leek, goat’s cheese, and sliced almonds won’t soon be forgotten. The Cellar Bar in the mansion basement delivers more casual a la carte options, and fine whiskey pours.

On our final day, we give falconry a try. We meet Tom, the falconer, in the rock grotto and over the next two hours, we eagerly learn to hold, play with, and fly the birds. Watching a hawk take flight, return and land on my hand is exhilarating and terrifying – an experience only topped that day by beating my husband in air rifle shooting.

As we descend the grand cantilevered stairwell one final time, we feel, once again, like royalty. We will remember Ballyfin as the epitome of Irish hospitality. And we hope to one day return to our home away from home, for an experience unlike anything our home could provide.

The Details

Ballyfin is located at the foot of the Slieve Bloom Mountains in Ireland, 90 minutes from Dublin airport and 15 minutes from Portlaoise Train Station.

Rates start from €570 (about A$902) for a single room. Suite rates start from €1475 (about A$2335), twin share. Rates include main meals and afternoon tea, drinks from the minibar, pre-dinner drinks reception, use of most on-site facilities, VAT and gratuities. ballyfin.com

Feel Roar the

FOR HEART-RACING ADVENTURE, SOUTH AFRICA IS AN IDEAL DESTINATION, AND THE WILDLIFE ENCOUNTERS ON SAFARI ARE JUST THE BEGINNING

WHEN IT COMES TO ADVENTURE TRAVEL, some nations are simply better equipped to satisfy an adrenalin junkie’s needs. With its dramatic natural landscapes and incredible wildlife, South Africa is one such nation.

A genuine safari powerhouse, South Africa’s wildlife is legendary, particularly the Big Five – lion, elephant, rhino, leopard and buffalo. More than 10 million tourists visit the country each year, and many arrive with a safari experience front of mind. Boasting more species of large mammals than any other African game reserve, Kruger National

Park is arguably the most famous safari destination, but there is no shortage of South African bushveld reserves just waiting to be explored.

Beyond these sweeping plains, South Africa’s dramatic coastline and towering mountain ranges combine to bolster this adventurer’s playground. Try climbing the wild, craggy cliffs of Cederberg Conservancy; surf Jeffreys Bay, the world-famous site said to be capable of the perfect wave; take on an overnight hike into the soaring peaks of the Drakensberg; combine abseiling and

canyoning at Storms River Gorge; bungee off the Bloukrans Bridge, the 216-metre drop on the border of the Eastern and Western Cape. Once the heart stops racing, a colourful melting pot of cultures and a rich and moving history await. It may be known as the ‘Rainbow Nation’, but when it comes to travel adventures, South Africa doubles as a pot of gold.

The Details

For more information, visit southafrica.net

And then there were three

IN SEARCH OF A WELL-EARNED BREAK, RICHARD BUNTING FINDS

THE PERFECT BALANCE OF FAMILY AND DOWN TIME IN THE IDYLLIC SURROUNDINGS OF LANAI ISLAND

LANAI ISLAND, A PATCH OF HAWAIIAN PARADISE, IS FAVOURED by A-listers from Jessica Alba and Cindy Crawford to Bill and Melinda Gates. Without a lick of remorse, we were about to take the celebrity factor down a notch. It had been 15 months – 15 beautiful, challenging months – since my wife and I made our parenting debut and we were thrilled to be taking our new-found and ever-developing parenting skills on the road.

It was our first adventure as a family of three, and Lanai Island, located off the west coast of Maui, seemed a fitting reward. The journey began with some trepidation when we realised our 45-minute flight from Honolulu to Maui would be courtesy of a Cessna Grand Caravan. The single-engine turboprop, which seats 14 at capacity but carried just four passengers on this occasion, didn’t promise the sturdiest of rides. But our concerns were soon forgotten as the spectacular views of Honolulu, Waikiki and Molokai unfolded as we cruised at around 4500 metres.

Excitement officially building, we met our transfer at Maui’s Kahului Airport for the 50-minute drive to Lahaina, the former capital of the Kingdom of Hawaii, for our ferry to Lanai Island. The ferry ride, across beautiful blue waters to Lanai Harbour, was over in a heartbeat and in only a few more minutes we had arrived at the Four Seasons Resort Lanai.

Someone at the resort sure knows what life with a toddler is like. As we entered our Ocean Front King Room, we spotted a bed big enough for five – or, in our case, one ‘Emma’ who likes to sleep diagonally. We were also quick to notice the stunning views of the Pacific Ocean, not surprisingly, and the perfectly sized balcony to enjoy a morning coffee or afternoon drink. The highlight for me, however, was in the bathroom. The automated toilet may be common place in Japan but for me it had the wow-factor. >>

With just three days to enjoy this remote resort, our problem was deciding what we should and shouldn’t do. The activities and experiences on offer are seemingly endless. Mix this with the outstanding dining options and must-have pool time, and we had to choose carefully. The resort has two pools. One is adults-only, which we stared at longingly from a distance, but the alternative quickly quashed such feelings. Located at the front of the resort overlooking the ocean and Hulopoe Beach, the beautiful familyfriendly pool is adorned with blossoming gardens and deck chairs and boasts a pool bar with staff who seem to appear like magic just when you need them. Spending lost hours poolside in an exotic destination with service you can’t fault was hard to leave, but meals are a feature at the Four Seasons, too. We headed off to the resort’s headline restaurant One Forty, the American Steakhouse and Hawaiian Seafood restaurant.

We dined early, as I am learning a toddler brings new challenges at dinner. While we battled with climbing, shrieks and several attempts to start a food fight, we managed to enjoy a meal that we will both remember. I selected the Prime Steak Wagyu from Snake River Farms in New York and it was the best steak I have

ever had. It was cooked medium rare with braised chestnuts, apple-smoked bacon, bone marrow, caramelised Maui onions, and roasted mushrooms. It is a must for any steak lover visiting the Four Seasons. Entrée and dessert were also superb even if I did find myself eating alone by the third course!

The next day we had booked in to visit Lanai City. The main town is only a 30-minute drive away and a pleasant way to spend a morning. We slowly made our way in and out of quaint cottagestyle shops with traditional Hawaiian and locally made clothes, artefacts and souvenirs. The town was quiet and easy to roam, with a large park in the centre and a number of coffee shops.

As early afternoon arrived, my wife couldn’t have been happier as her spa booking was only minutes away. The resort spa offers a wide variety of treatments and, from what I am told, the Oceanic Stone Lomi Lomi is an experience that will rest the mind and body. We saw the day out by boarding a sunset cruise on a 21-metre catamaran. The crew were jovial and fun, and ensured we were never thirsty, hungry or unaware of the history of the waters we were sailing. The cruise was the perfect way to cap off another day and with a sunset for the ages.

The next day we introduced Emma to miniature ponies, donkeys, goats and horses at the Four Seasons-managed ranch in Lanai City. The ranch is fully operational with a full-time Rancher and also offers horse riding experiences for riders of most levels. Judging by the smiles and giggles we saw, this is a must if you’re travelling with kids.

As had become standard on this trip, we had no need for lunch after overindulging at breakfast. Soon enough it is time for my ‘spa’ treatment, which took place on the signature Jack Nicholasdesigned 18-hole Manele Golf Course. Only a couple of minutes away, the course offers spectacular views from every hole. It is designed to be a little forgiving for the weekend hacker and challenging for the more experienced golfer with tee placements positioned for all skill levels.

Our final duty before leaving was to dine at the in-house Nobu, and I use the term ‘duty’ as loosely as possible. A memorable meal at one of the world’s most iconic Japanese-style restaurants – this was a brilliant way to finish our stay. But more than the food, more than the room, the bed or the ocean views, it is the people that provided the real magic on our travels. All the staff we encountered made us feel welcome and valued. Sharing that experience with Emma made for a holiday we will never forget.

The Details

Four Seasons Resort Lanai is located on the southeastern coast of pristine Lanai Island. It is a short flight from Honolulu on Hawaiian Air while Lanai Air ( lanaiair.com ) offers charter flights from Honolulu, Maui and Hawaii Island. Rates start at US$1150 (about A$1600) for a Garden-View Room. Small Suites start from US$2275 (about A$3160). For more information, visit fourseasons.com/lanai.

Adriatic Riches

AS MONTENEGRO’S STAR CONTINUES TO RISE, VICTORIA GABRIEL CHECKS IN TO THE AMAN SVETI STEFAN AND FINDS A BEAUTIFULLY RESTORED SEASIDE HIDEAWAY

AS I WALK ALONG THE PICTURESQUE ISTHMUS BRIDGING mainland Montenegro to the islet of Sveti Stefan, I find myself in a small world of impressively preserved history. Tiny 15thcentury churches, decorative frescoes, and other discreet relics serve to remind me of the contrast between Europe’s rich history and my standard modernisms.

This small island, now solely Aman Sveti Stefan, was formerly a tiny fortified fishing village dating back to the 15th century. It was revitalised by Aman with doors opening in 2008, but don’t remorse any lost history – they have done a fabulous job of maintaining the small-village feel and conserving the original history. In typical Aman fashion, it feels like a true hideaway, but Sveti Stefan takes the sanctuary vibe to another level as you’re quite literally on a private island.

I take some time to wander up and down stairs through the stony village ‘homes’ that house individual guest rooms and stumble upon the resort’s three infinity pools overlooking the Adriatic Sea as well as the two fine-dining restaurants, each emanating the understated opulence of Aman. However, you’re just as likely to happen upon a historical artefact as you are a modern jet-black pool, which is what makes this place so special.

The whole island exudes serenity and this is reflected in the decor, views and scenery. Guest rooms are spacious and calming, decorated with minimalism in mind – think earthy tones and timber accents, natural light, and an inviting spaciousness. And, because of the nature of the island, each window seems to boast

a water view even more incredible than the last. In my room, the lower level houses a grand bathroom, which is incredibly spacious and features double sinks, a huge standalone tub and separate shower.

Each afternoon I find a new bottle of delicious complimentary red wine in the living room. The Aman has partnered with local Radevic Estate Wines and produced this variety specifically for resort guests. It is my first taste of the delicious world of Montenegrin wines and I’m impressed. >>

Aman Sveti Stefan finds a happy balance of modern luxuries and preserved history.

Aman Sveti Stefan extends beyond the island and on to the mainland, and a three-minute boat ride, available on-demand, will take you there. I get dropped off at a private beach for guests only and take an impromptu afternoon dip as the sun goes down. I have the beach to myself as well as plenty of photo opportunities as the sun sets with the island in the foreground.

Wandering beyond the beach after my swim, I come across the gym, spa, magnificent indoor pool and, finally, Villa Miločer. The mainland portion of Aman Sveti Stefan, Villa Miločer houses eight luxury suites, its own lobby and library, and a restaurant, complete with a large patio garden overlooking the shore. I eat breakfast here one sunny morning; the kind that makes you want to linger for hours as you read the paper, sip another coffee and stare out at the endless views.

Montenagro, above and below, exudes European charm. Opposite: Aman Sveti Stefan extends to the mainland with Villa Miločer.

Finally I am ready to explore beyond the Aman and, after a short drive, I discover the tiny old town of Perast on the Bay of Kotor. It looks just like you’d expect a European town of just 350 residents to look – so picturesque it could have come straight from the imagination of Walt Disney. I had a great time walking along the waterfront and wandering into small stores and cafes.

Kotor is another great day excursion and contains one of the best-preserved medieval towns along the Adriatic. While the businesses in these medieval towns can be touristy given the influx of cruises stopping through, you’ll find more authentic stops outside the old-town walls. After a casual-but-delicious barbecue lunch at Tanjga, I come across an outdoor market where I purchase local honey, prosciutto, and an olive wood chopping board. However, my memories of interacting with each stallholder, all locals with great passion, will outlast any purchase.

Excursion complete, I am buoyed by the scene of glorious Sveti Stefan rising out of the water as I approach, knowing I will soon be enjoying that famous Aman hospitality once more.

The Details

Aman Sveti Stefan is 40 minutes by car from Tivat airport; 60 minutes from Podgorica airport; and 150 minutes from Dubrovnik airport. Direct flights are available from a number of cities including Paris, Rome, Vienna, Berlin, Copenhagen, and London.

Rates for Aman Sveti Stefan start from €828 (about A$1300) per night (including taxes and fees, and daily breakfast for two) for a Miločer Garden View Suite. The Sveti Stefan islet, which operates seasonally, will open on May 1, 2019. Rates for a Village Room start from €883 (about A$1390) per night (including taxes and fees, and daily breakfast for two). For more information, visit aman.com/resorts/aman-sveti-stefan.

© Image courtesy of Alexandra and Vladimir Nadtochiy. nadtochiy.com

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Wild at Heart

THE GLORIOUS LUXURIES OF A SANCTUARY SAFARI ARE MATCHED BY THOSE FOUND IN THE RHYTHM OF THE WILD

Words by CHRISTINE M c CABE

First light glimmers across the Serengeti to the call of jackals and the arrival of tea to my tent, delivered in a basket with biscuits.

I’m up and dressed and ready for a full day’s game drive, but there’s always time for a pot of Kilimanjaro tea on the verandah before joining ace guide Emmanuel in our mighty open-top Toyota. It is quite the off-road vehicle with comfy seats, padded side panels (useful for resting long lenses) and Maasai blankets for the chilly mornings.

Dawn is a special time at Sanctuary Kichakani in Tanzania. The light has a textural quality, like gossamer, as it settles on the unfurling plains where great herds of zebra and wildebeest graze, and giraffes drift like languid supermodels through the acacia trees.

This mobile camp in the northern Serengeti harks back to the birth of modern-day safari in the 1960s when Geoffrey Kent, founder of Sanctuary parent company Abercrombie & Kent, purchased a second-hand army truck, Scottish-made tents, sprung mattresses, and fine china and glassware before setting out with some intrepid tourists for the Great Rift Valley.

Kichakani relives those trailblazing days by packing up and heading south to follow the Great Migration, a complicated exercise that takes some three weeks. There are the 10 guest tents with flushing toilets and timber floors, a large dining tent, and all the support paraphernalia: kitchens, storerooms, linen room, logistics hub.

It’s quite an operation and quite a camp, with smart campaign furniture and delightful vintage detailing (old metal trunks

and copper sinks) rendering it as romantic as anything in Out of Africa. Camouflaged among the thorn trees, my little tent has everything I need: a verandah with easy chairs and shaving or make-up mirror (no self-respecting safari maven sets out without lippy), huge bed with feather pillows, and bucket shower with loads of hot water.

Tea polished off, Emmanuel gets our game drive off to a flying start: a fresh kill, three lionesses and five cubs tucking into the remains of an unfortunate wildebeest, the cubs with bloodied faces, and one mum making quite a palaver of spitting the creature’s beard from between her teeth. >>

Sanctuary Kichakani

It’s an image we try to forget as we tuck into our picnic breakfast, set out on a pretty rug with little leather campaign stools and more hot tea (a safari essential).

Safari has it’s own special rhythm that in many ways is more relaxing, and certainly much more exciting, than a beach resort. We may be up at dawn but there’s always time for an afternoon nap, and the only decision required all day is at sundowners, wine or G&T?

Thanks to the Sanctuary guides’ intimate knowledge of their patch, every day is crammed with wonders and all the drama of a nature documentary. My favourite moment comes when we spy the ‘border boys’, two cheetah brothers who cross back and forth between Tanzania and Kenya and were recently separated, and bereft. Emmanuel is overjoyed to see them reunited.

Back at Kichakani, camp manager Immi is waiting with G&Ts and canapes. He has a knack for delivering five-star service in the bush with an effortless grace, but it must be challenging, managing same-day laundry and daily-changing menus when he’s not heading off marauding baboons in the kitchen.

Dinner is taken in the large communal tent, a very stylish set-up decorated with large maps, sepia photos of the Kent family on safari and funky chandeliers fashioned from old metal torches. There are white linen cloths, proper glassware and three courses, followed by coffee by the campfire listening to the roar of lions.

Kichakani is one of four Tanzanian Sanctuary camps. We begin our adventure at Sanctuary Swala in the remote Tarangire National Park, famous for huge herds of elephants.

Guide Sammy meets us at the tiny Kuro bush airstrip and we get straight down to ‘spotting’ elephants, before we’ve had time to unpack our cameras; great herds of buffalo; and giant Baobab trees, so large they dwarf giraffe.

Refurbished in May, the camp nestles near a waterhole and manager Ben warns against venturing out after dark without an Askari (camp guard) as elephants and lions are regular visitors. My large and very smart tented suite, with indoor and outdoor showers, tucks into the crook of an enormous Baobab with a large deck wrapping around tent and tree.

Almost hermetically sealed in mosquito netting in my huge four-poster, I feel snug as a bug in a rug and perfectly safe, but at 2am I’m woken by elephants right outside my tent shredding trees with mechanical efficiency, alarming enough without the whoopwhoop of hyenas and the blood-curdling shriek of the little hyrax. I don’t drop off again until I hear the reassuring footfall of the patrolling Askari

Tea on the deck at dawn is in the company of monkeys and tiny dik-dik antelope playing skittishly. Today Sammy leads us around Tarangire’s vast marshlands towards the mountains to find lions and dancing ostriches and a giraffe barely six hours old. These vast green marshes are a game spotters’ Eden, their waters nurturing hippo, elephants, waterbucks and countless birds. >>

Sanctuary Swala

“Thanks to the Sanctuary guides’ intimate knowledge of their patch, every day is crammed with wonders and all the drama of a nature documentary.”

“The real action is at the river where vast herds of wildebeest and zebra gather to cross. And lurking out of sight are at least a dozen large crocs.”

From Tanzania we cross the border into Kenya and the gamerich Masai Mara bound for Sanctuary’s original camp Olonana, first launched in 1999 and lavishly rebuilt this season as a luxury lodge with 14 enormous, glass-fronted suites strung along a private stretch of the Mara River.

The super-smart lounge and dining areas are huge with wrap-around decking offering ample quiet spots for dining and cocktails alfresco. Each suite perches directly above the river and comes with a parading hippo or two.

From bed I can see the creatures coquettishly twirling their little ears and I later fall asleep to the sound of tumbling waters; it’s magical.

Below the bed, a handsome conversation pit opens out onto a large deck; the jumbo-size bathroom has a deep tub and crazy shower arrangement – three showerheads set along a stone plinth large enough to wash a hippo. With coffee machine and gratis minibar stocked with wine, it’s tempting to stay in on hippo watch, but you’d be missing out.

The nearby game reserve offers thrilling sightings including rhino and great prides of lions. Our guide Abdul seems to have a sixth sense tipping up just after a cheetah has killed or plopping us right in the middle of the lions as they loll about like pussycats. He finds little treasures too, pretty wild gardenias and a newborn Topi antelope struggling to stand on spindly legs. But the real action is at the river where vast herds of wildebeest and

zebra gather to cross. And lurking out of sight are at least a dozen large crocs. We join a phalanx of safari outfits on a ridge above the river to wait it out, and the suspense is terrible. Finally, one plucky little zebra ventures into the water, feints back, moves forward again, feints sideways and then spots the crocs, dashing back to safety. We let out a whoop. Zebras: 1. Crocs: 0.

We’re so engrossed we haven’t noticed a National Geographic jeep pull up beside us. They’re filming and streaming live to wildlife fans around the globe, but let me tell you, there’s nothing on earth like being here.

The Details

Both Tanzania and Kenya deliver outstanding game viewing and spectacular scenery much of the year. The dry season, from late June to October, is generally better for game viewing.

Luxury travel company Abercrombie & Kent specialises in private and small group safaris to Kenya and Tanzania. The 12-day private journey ‘Great East Africa Migration’ includes stays in Nairobi, Tarangire National Park, the Serengeti and the Masai Mara. Prices start from $14,290 per person, twin share. Includes all meals on safari, intercamp flights, all game drives and activities, transport and park fees.

For more information about Sanctuary Retreats’ camps and lodges, please visit sanctuaryretreats.com. For more information, contact Abercrombie & Kent on 1300 590 317 or visit abercrombiekent.com.au.

Sanctuary Olonana

What Lies Beneath

UNDERWATER PHOTOGRAPHIC

AN UNPARALLELED

ESSAY BY NIKON AMBASSADOR MATTY SMITH

Schooling Jacks at Mary Island, Solomon Islands

Q&A with Matty Smith

Q. What lured you to underwater photography?

A. I’ve been into the water since I was a little kid – swimming, beach holidays, surfing – and when I was old enough to drive, I got into surfing in a big way. I bought a DSLR camera and water housing to shoot all my friends. When I emigrated to Australia from the UK in 2007, I got my dive ticket and now I’ve fully evolved into underwater photography.

Q. Did that fact Australia is “girt by sea” influence your move to Australia?

A. Absolutely. My decision to emigrate was through surfing and then diving and photography, first and foremost.

Q. How important has travel been throughout your career?

A. The reason I love photography so much is it’s a good excuse to travel. Photography is a reward, I suppose. When you get home it doesn’t become a distant memory, you’ve got really beautiful pictures, too. I love taking people with me, showing them the beauty out there – not only overseas, but also in our own backyard.

Q. Do you have a favourite destination?

A. That’s a hard one. I really love Cuba, Costa Rica, Indonesia … but perhaps it’s the Solomon Islands. There’s such variety there, you can see pretty much everything and anything, and it’s so close.

Q. Where to next?

A. I’m quite possibly off to Antarctica in March. Then the Philippines for a load of night diving in April; Great White Sharks in South Australia in May/June; the end of June is Great Barrier Reef for Minke Whales; August, Tonga for Humpback Whales; Solomon Islands in November, and then anything else that pops up in between, I guess.

Q. What is your top underwater photography tip?

A. If you want eye-popping, attention-grabbing shots, then first and foremost it is lighting. As soon as you go underwater, you start to lose colours. Secondly, it’s composition. I always tell people to get low and on eye level with your subject, or even lower, so you can look up and frame it against the blue water.

You can learn more by joining one of Matty’s underwater photography workshops. The schedule is regularly updated and can be found at mattysmithphoto.com.

‘Blue Lasso’, Pacific Man-o-War at sunrise, Bass Point, Shellharbour, NSW

‘Celestial Terrestrial’, Southern Calamari Squid, Bushrangers Bay, Shellharbour, NSW

‘Purple Haze’, Peach Anemonefish at Kimbe Bay, Papua New Guinea

Weedy Sea Dragon with eggs, Kurnell, Sydney, NSW

Critically endangered Australian Sea Lion, Hopkins Island, South Australia

A venomous Blue-Ringed Octopus,Wollongong Harbour, NSW

A Saddleback Anemonefish defending its home, Solomon Islands

Schooling Sweetlips, Sawanderek Jetty, Raja Ampat, West Papua

Mbula Caverns, Solomon Islands

‘High Five’, a baby Hawksbill Sea Turtle, Lissenung Island, Papua New Guinea

‘Smiling Assassin’, an American Crocodile, The Gardens of the Queen, Cuba

‘Lion’s Mane’, a Lion’s Mane Jellyfish, Bass Point, Shellharbour, NSW

Great White Sharks, North Neptune Islands, South Australia

Treasure ISLANDS

BALI MAY BE A FAVOURITE DESTINATION AMONG AUSSIE TRAVELLERS, BUT THE NEARBY ISLANDS OF FLORES AND SUMBA ARE HIDDEN TREASURES JUST WAITING TO BE DISCOVERED

Words by MADELIN TOMELTY

I’m staring at a big, heaping pile of Komodo Dragons. I say ‘pile’ because the eight or so seven-foot lizards are lazily lumped around in the shade, with one’s head on top of another’s tail on top of another’s foot in some sort of subverted prehistoric friendship circle that, unsurprisingly, isn’t warming my heart in the slightest.

Apparently this is how the largest lizard on Earth spends its days. The Komodo Dragon is venomous, swims, runs 20 kilometres an hour, eats buffalo and monkeys, and has been known to attack and kill humans, but the creatures I am looking at are wearing their apathy and slothfulness like a badge of honour. Fair enough, Komodo, you do you – I’m not one to argue with a cannibalistic predator.

Would I consider myself a lover of amphibians? Definitely not. Am I an avid adventure traveller? Not unless said adventure includes regular naps and a sundowner at the end of each day. So you might ask why on Earth I am wherever on Earth I am, although by now you might have guessed.

I’m on Rinca Island, one of the three islands that make up the Komodo National Park in Indonesia’s Nusa Tenggara region, and the reason I’m here is pretty straightforward – I’ve never been before. I can’t say the same about Bali, and that’s why this time around I’ve bypassed the popular resort isle, just a short plane ride away, for a four-night stay on the nearby island of Flores, gateway to the Komodo National Park.

Flores, and all of Bali’s sister islands in the Nusa Tenggara province, for that matter – Lombok, Sumba, Sulawesi and Sumatra, to name a few – have long lived in Bali’s shadow. While nearly half of all tourists to Indonesia visit Bali, where tourism has boomed since the 1970s, the rest of the islands in this string of Indian Ocean pearls remain relatively untapped by tourism. Astounding, given each island here is equally if not more beautiful

than its famous sibling, and certainly more untouched.

It’s a good thing, then, that AYANA Komodo Resort opened in September. Located just outside Flores’s capital, Labuan Bajo, the new luxury resort is a welcome piece of paradise within a paradise – a Russian doll of respite, worlds away from the ever-increasing chaos of Bali. And you don’t even have to be interested in visiting ginormous reptiles to enjoy it.

On my full-day boating adventure to the Komodo National Park we make a snorkeling pit-stop at Komodo Island’s Pink Sand Beach, and in the warm, shallow water see baby sharks gliding. A few minutes later we come up close and personal with a turtle enthusiastically nibbling sea grass and algae on the ocean floor, mere metres from the shoreline.

By the time we get to a Maldivian-style sandbank in the middle of the ocean, I’m smiling from ear to ear underwater as we join the colourful fish swimming in their reef playground, before Manta Ray spotting from the bow of our speedboat. And this is just another day in Flores – an island known for having some of the best diving in Asia. >>

AYANA Komodo Resort (above and below) is located near Indonesia’s Komodo National Park (right).

Returning to the sanctuary of AYANA Komodo Resort salty, sun-soaked and satisfied, I merely have to pick a spot, any spot, in the resort to get front-row tickets to see the star of the show – a 180-degree panorama of calm azure ocean punctuated by small islands. It’s just before sunset now and I’m tempted to sit in the open-air, top-floor lobby with its endless ocean vista, but that’s before I discover UNIQUE Rooftop Bar – a space that puts Seminyak’s bars to shame and leaves me gob-smacked. Time for that sundowner I mentioned earlier? Don’t mind if I do! Another favourite spot for watching those magnificent fiery Indian Ocean sunsets is Naga Bar – a charming island-chic shack at the end of the snaking pier. UNIQUE might have the high-voltage ‘wow’ factor, but Naga serves up the romance. The ocean scenery on display at AYANA Komodo is a bona fide gift

from the Gods that has far exceeded my expectations, and it is, unsurprisingly, the absolute focus of the resort. As for what’s in store inland, that’s a little more complicated.

There is little infrastructure in Flores outside of Labuan Bajo, and the poor roads limit even the most patient of traveller’s ability to explore, a shame given the island is dotted with beautiful volcanoes, lakes, waterfalls and towns offering rich culture, traditions and handicrafts.

While the government is working to improve the roads and I’m already convinced Flores is a place worth visiting, if currently just for its ocean offering, AYANA’s move to open such a large resort (there are 205 rooms) before the tourists have truly arrived, is ambitious. During my stay the resort is unbelievably quiet and it’s apparent the word is not yet out on Flores. It doesn’t help that there is no international airport… yet.

“To be the first one is always risky…nobody wants to be the first one!” AYANA Komodo Resort General Manager Fernando Arroyo says. “I think it was a very bold and wise move from our owners to open… it’s a domino effect when it comes to hotels. One, two or three chains open, and the others will just follow.”

If Indonesian President Joko Widodo’s word is anything to go by, Arroyo will be right. In 2017 Widodo named Labuan Bajo one of the country’s target destinations in the government’s ‘10 New Balis’ tourism strategy – a plan to replicate the economic effects of tourism in Bali, nationally. And with Flores’s first five-star hotel now open, this pretty island could finally capture some of the high-end clientele that visit Bali every year.

He doesn’t need to convince me. I spend my days at the resort in a lazy haze, sauntering from the pool to one of the three restaurants to the spa and back to the pool, mirroring the inertia of my amphibian counterparts.

It’s no accident that I don’t spend much time in my room, which leaves much to be desired in the way of design and decor. There is a sense it has been rushed and thrown together, >>

AYANA Komodo Resort is the first fivestar hotel on the island of Flores, but unlikely the last.

the glimmer of luxury found in the bathroom quickly forgotten thanks to an all-consuming, contrived coastal palette of cream on cream and the addition of kitsch coral and seahorse adornments not seen in interiors since the 1990s. There isn’t a coffee machine or much in the way of a minibar, and while the rooms aren’t terrible, they’re not at the five-star standard I would expect, either.

The saving grace is – here I go again – that view, generously granted to every single room in the resort. Request a room on a high floor to make the most of it, or better yet opt for one of the 13 corner Full Ocean View Suites, which are huge and have inyour-face ocean panoramas up there with the qualias of the world.

After four days on Flores, I may have had my fix of ‘Flowers’ island, but I’ve barely scratched the surface of Nusa Tenggara, and I have time for one more stop: Sumba.

Home to multi-award-winning Hotel of the Year resort, Nihi Sumba, Sumba’s rolling green hills, petite Sandalwood ‘sea horses’ (that you can ride on the beach and in the ocean), beautiful beaches and incredible surf make it an island utopia that is still, again, under-explored by Australians.

Nihi Sumba is a luxury surf retreat made famous in part by its world-renowned ‘private’ wave, ‘God’s Left’. Just 10 surfers per day are allowed on it, and spots are booked months or even years in advance. For this non-surfer, though (see previous comment about adventure travel), I discover Nihi is equally dreamy to sunbakers and tube-chasers alike, and a big part of that is the emphasis the resort puts on the natural environment, sustainability and island exploration.

For surfers and sunbakers alike, Nihi Sumba is located on Sumba – an island utopia that remains relatively untouched by tourism.

Oh, and the luxury factor may have a little to do with it. Giving all new meaning to ‘spa time’, at Nihi Sumba I experience a Spa Safari –a half-day unlimited treatment pamper session in a remote, cliffside location away from the resort. Bliss? That’s not the half of it.

Nihi’s 33 villas are just as exclusive, and my ocean view villa is one of the most beautiful I’ve stayed in. But, like my experience on Flores, it is the untouched environment that really lingers in my mind long after check-out, and as I make my way to the airport I’m even more perplexed than I was before as to why tourism isn’t exploding here.

Maybe it’s because Bali is beautiful, too. Maybe it’s because there is a certain comfort in returning to places you’ve been before. Or maybe it’s because Komodo Dragons are kind of scary. Whatever the reason, I’ve experienced first-hand the immense beauty to be found beyond Bali’s shores, and if Widodo’s vision is anything to go by, the time to discover these island treasures is now.

The Details

Ayana Komodo Resort, Flores Island, can be reached via a scenic one-hour flight from Bali. Rates start at $700 for a Full Ocean View Room, $730 for a Deluxe Full Ocean View Room, and $1052 for a Full Ocean View Suite. ayana.com/labuan-bajo/ayana-komodo

Flights to Sumba Island depart Bali’s Ngurah Rai International Airport in Denpasar three times a day. Nihi Sumba rates start at US$795 (about A$1120) per night for a villa (low season), including transfers and full board. nihi.com

a head o f t h e Ga M e

IT’S NOT ALL THAT EASY TO IMPRESS YOUNG LADS

whose main preoccupations are Pokemon, Minecraft and black holes in distant galaxies. When I took my nineyear-old son, Sam, to Japan, he was primarily hell bent on gorging on anime, robot shows and game arcades. He even printed business cards with his name on them, along with a job description: “Video Game Expert.”

He practiced passing it out, complete with a polite little bow, for weeks before we left. But every single experience we had in the country he loves more than any other paled next to one glorious night we spent at The Peninsula Hotel in Tokyo. These were, he tells me often, the greatest 24 hours of his life.

When I glanced at his bed shortly after we entered our rooms, I saw the footprints he’d left from bouncing up and down with glee. The Deluxe Suite has sweeping views of the Imperial Palace, the official residence of the Emperor of Japan, and the surrounding gardens. It is both grand and airy with full-length wall-to-wall windows. It contains a large foyer, a dining room, and a corner living room equipped with a telescope and big, comfy couches to curl up on while birds swoop up past the windows and traffic silently snakes around the gardens below.

The Peninsula is located in what my son calls a “fancy part of town”, opposite Hibiya Park and Marunouchi district, a short walk from Ginza, the place of shoppers’ delight.

The hotel’s sparkling indoor pool and spa also have farspanning views of the Tokyo skyline and lush gardens, which makes the outside lounges highly covetable – try to get in early to snaffle one of these if you can. You can borrow a cap and goggles and swim a good few laps in the uncrowded pool. The gym, meanwhile, is clean, well equipped and well used.

The hotel was so sumptuous we did not want to leave. But we did, only once, because The Peninsula staff had kindly organised for a driver to take us to a ‘Fake Food’ lesson in a MINI Cooper S Clubman.

I had some trepidation about this expedition. Could fake food really be worth leaving the suite for?

Yes, it turns out it could. The lesson was surprisingly absorbing and fun. With the help of a jovial expert, tweezers and a large vat of boiling water, we created artificial meals and ingredients, such as tempura prawns, pumpkin and lettuce, from wax, and miniature ice-cream sundaes from silicon and plastic.

Sam loved it. My lettuce needed improvement, but his was near perfect. The only downsides were that I then had to endure his

smug satisfaction and insistence that we carry these creations around Japan by hand for another 10 days.

The highlight of Sam’s hotel stay, however, was an hour-long bubble bath, which he enjoyed while watching cartoons on the inbuilt TV. From there, it was a short walk to the ‘Super Toilet’; the high-tech type found throughout Japan, with automatic toilet lids and a panel with a dizzying array of washing options. Throughout our trip across the country, the Japanese bathrooms were a source of great curiosity. Much time was lost pressing buttons to produce privacy sounds, scents and massaging sprays. Room service did not fail us either. Sam sampled chicken nuggets with fries and a banana milkshake for dinner, then waffles with mascarpone cheese and a strawberry shake the next day. Meanwhile, I headed to the top floor to drink champagne with friends and eat at Tokyo grill restaurant, Peter. The service was incredible, the food superb: crab cakes; soft, perfectly cooked salmon; and their specialty – juicy and delicate wagyu beef that vanishes in your mouth. We slept deeply.

Overall, The Peninsula exuded a remarkable sense of peace, and its staff a kind of effortless competence. They understand luxury. Soft lounges. Mood lights. A nail dryer in the gigantic dressing room. Little chocolates. Pretty origami swans. Massive pots of tea. Delicate cups and saucers. Noiselessness. Calm. Then there are all the quiet, comforting extra such as pocket WiFi and a chauffeur service. As part of Peninsula’s Keys to the City program, guests can choose between such ‘only-in-Tokyo’ experiences as private after-hours shopping at Tokyu Plaza, advance tickets to Nezu Museum, and tours of the Imperial Palace Gardens. You can also join cultural tours where you learn traditional karate, go in a flight simulator over Tokyo, learn how to eat like a local or tour Sake breweries.

But perhaps the greatest luxury here is the feeling of space in a crowded city.

There are many ways to spend 24 hours in Tokyo. Most of them are frenetic, fun and exhausting. But Sam’s could yet be the best advice yet: book a Deluxe Suite at The Peninsula, soak in the bath, wrap yourself in a plush robe and refuse to leave.

The Details

Rates at The Peninsula Tokyo start from approximately A$1340 per night for an Executive Suite. For more information, visit peninsula.com/tokyo.

LED BY HER WIDE-EYED NINE-YEAR-OLD, JULIA BAIRD ENJOYS A BRIEF BUT BLISSFUL STAY AT TOKYO’S PENINSULA HOTEL

COMO The Treasury

HERITAGE BALCONY ROOM

Size: 60 square metres / Price: From $495 per night / Reviewed by Kelly

Hotel

COMO The Treasury is an elegant urban hotel housed in the 19th-century State Buildings in the heart of historic Perth. The stone and brick Victorian exterior hides an elegant contemporary interior, which is home to 48 rooms and suites, several dining options, and the highly acclaimed COMO Shambhala spa. The $110-million heritage restoration was undertaken by the late Kerry Hill and has returned 95 per cent of the building to its 19th-century origins, while the remainder exudes modern sophistication. With more than 60,000 slate tiles imported from Wales covering the rooftop, complete with copper trimmings, it’s one of the city’s most impressive landmarks. Subtle colours, bespoke furniture, hand-knotted rugs and softly lit corridors create a warm contemporary feel.

Allen / Details: comohotels.com/thetreasury

Suite Rooms are very large. Starting at 55 square metres and going up to 120. My Heritage Balcony Room was light and bright with oversized windows (that actually open!) and a Juliet balcony overlooking Cathedral Plaza. Each room is different, with the shape dictated by the design of the building. I immediately made use of my fireplace as I cuddled up in a cozy chair and enjoyed the local goodies from the complimentary mini bar. The massive ensuite had a beautiful freestanding tub with heated travertine stone floor tiles and aromatherapybased COMO Shambhala amenities.

Locale

The Treasury is in prime position, just a short stroll from the Swan River and Kings Park, and

surrounded by great shopping and restaurants. The State Buildings also feature several handpicked retail shops supplying artisanal foods, hand-made chocolates, specialty teas, a barber shop, chic bars and restaurants, and The Honeycake, a cake shop with a cult following. You can even take a ferry to idyllic Rottnest Island from the wharf just five minutes away. Perth airport is a 20-minute drive from the hotel.

Eat In

Wildflower is located on the hotel’s rooftop and serves dishes revolving around the six indigenous seasons. Executive Chef Jed Gerrard showcases the best ingredients Western Australia has to offer, relying on local farmers and foragers. Post, named for its location in Perth’s original General Post Office, serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. Choices include contemporary Italian fare or healthy COMO Shambhala cuisine. The seasonal greens with poached egg and ‘green goddess’ sauce was my favorite way to start the day.

The Treasury Lounge and Bar is a stylish area for a cocktail or afternoon tea with comfortable sofas and leather armchairs.

Special Touches

It’s hard to go past COMO Shambhala Urban Escape, which feels like a retreat with dark wood and stone tiles. With both Western and Eastern wellness therapies, the spa specialises in handson healing and holistic treatments. Along with massages, they offer a number of purifying body detoxifications. Besides four treatment rooms the wellness sanctuary also includes a gym and 20-metre heated lap pool.

Park Hyatt Paris-Vendôme

PARK DELUXE SUITE

Size: 50-55 square metres / Price: From €1283 (about A$2040) per night / Reviewed by Gary Allen / Details: hyatt.com

Hotel

Since opening in 2002, the Park Hyatt ParisVendôme has established itself as one of the best hotels in Paris. With the classic-yet-understated design the Park Hyatt brand is known for, the Vendôme has perfected the art of incognito. At any given moment celebrities, supermodels, international leaders and business tycoons can be found coming and going – if not via the front entrance, then perhaps the private rear entrance, complete with paparazzi-proof shutters.

Designed by renowned architect Ed Tuttle, the hotel has 153 rooms including 43 suites. A total renovation of all rooms will be completed by mid-2019. Service is intimate and formalities are avoided, as you are welcomed into the heart of the hotel, La Cheminee, a cozy space to enjoy a snack or afternoon tea in front of the open

fire. It’s here you may get your first whiff of the signature scent created exclusively for Park Hyatt Paris by perfumer Blaise Mautin. The subtle fragrance drifts in and out as you wander about the hotel.

Suite

Our superbly sized Park Deluxe Suite felt like a luxurious apartment with shades of gold and cream infused with mahogany panelling. There are gilded oversized mirrors, comfortable armchairs and a large walk-in closet that leads to a generous marble spa-like bathroom. The high quality toiletries are unique to the hotel and created by master perfumer Christophe Laudamiel.

Locale

Located in the second arrondissement, Paris’s

smallest and often referred to as the heart of the city. The hotel is just steps away from the boutiques of Place Vendôme and several metro stations, and a 15-minute walk to icons such as the Louvre, Jardin des Tuileries, the Champs-Elysees, the Seine, and Musee d’Orsay. The second arrondissement also has the highest concentration of 19th-century covered passageways and these beautiful Art Nouveau spaces are well worth a wander.

Eat In

There are four in-house choices on offer including Michelin-starred Pur’ – Jean-Francois Rouquette. Enjoy an evening at the Chef’s Table, an exclusive experience for four to six guests featuring dishes chosen by the chef and overlooking the open kitchen. For al fresco dining with a nautical vibe, try La Terrasse in the leafy private courtyard. La Cheminee serves light meals and afternoon tea in a cozy setting of plush couches around an open fire. Breakfast under the glass dome of Sens is a masterpiece of regional produce, hand-crafted cheeses, cured meats and, of course, incredible pastries. We had a leisurely breakfast here as the rain fell on the glass roof. With coffee and warm croissants in hand, it was bliss.

Special Touches

As one might expect from a Park Hyatt, the service was exceptional. There was a small but well equipped fitness center with adjacent sauna, steam and whirlpool baths. And, in keeping with Paris’s adoration for four-legged friends, pets up to 10 kilograms are very welcome and receive their own amenities.

Sofitel Sydney Darling Harbour

PRESTIGE SUITE

Size: 74 square metres / Price: From $1029 per night / Reviewed by Jennifer Maeder / Details: sofitelsydneydarlingharbour.com.au

Hotel

With 590 guestrooms including 35 suites, this 35-storey hotel is the first new-build Sofitel in Australia. Although it is conveniently located next to the new International Convention Centre (ICC), the hotel is not just for conference delegates. The all-glass high-rise – the tallest in Darling Harbour and designed by Sydney architect Richard Francis-Jones – emanates luxury and this vibe continues as you enter the white marble lobby and catch the signature fragrance in the air. As Sofitel is a French brand (Accor is the parent company), don’t be surprised when you are greeted with “Bonjour”. Much of the hotel’s inspiration, including artwork, is taken from the South of France, where glamorous seaside towns reign. Meanwhile, public spaces pay tribute to Sydney’s strong wharf heritage through the use of timber beams and rope.

Suite

Located on the top floor, with a separate lounge and dining area, the Prestige Suite has a sleek Scandinavian feel with neutral colours, blond timber, and those amazing floor-to-ceiling views over Darling Harbour and the CBD. There is large bookcase on one wall, with a selection of interesting coffee table books on different Australian subjects. They stock my favorite tea, TWG, along with a Nespresso coffee maker and minibar full of the regular goodies. The bathroom is magnificent with a freestanding soaking tub and separate shower with double showerheads. There is also an in-built TV to enjoy while you soak. While pleased to see Hermès toiletries, I’d like to see them do away with the small single-use plastic bottles. Sofitel is famous for the MyBed, and they never disappoint. All suites come with access to Club Millésime, the spectacular lounge on level 35 with soaring ceilings and sweeping views. It is a tranquil environment with many privileges including private check in/check out, hot and cold breakfast, all-day refreshments, a lovely afternoon high tea, and canapes and cocktails in the evening. Our leisurely breakfast with coffee, eggs benedict, fresh pastries and the weekend paper while perched above the Harbour was one of the highlights of our stay. Club Millésime is definitely one of the nicest hotel club lounges in Sydney.

Locale

As a Sydneysider, Darling Harbour is not an area I normally explore, as I think of it as a tourist spot. But since my last visit, the area has really been revitalised. The convention centre is a stunning building and had a fabulous Rolling Stone exhibition showing during our stay. There are numerous restaurants, bars, and a buzzing nightlife with fireworks on Saturday night and several talented buskers in the area. There is room for improvement – the Harbourside Mall is stuck in a time warp, for example – but things really seem to be coming together. For tourists especially, Wild Life Sydney Zoo, Sea Life Sydney Aquarium, and Australian National Maritime Museum, not to mention the many Harbour cruise operators, make Darling Harbour a prime location.

Look and Feel

Beyond the French ambiance, the attention to detail – from the jellyfish installation in the lobby to the 12-metre, 12,000-litre fish tank behind reception – is quite impressive. One of the most stunning areas of the hotel is the 20-metre outdoor infinity pool that appears to drop off into the Harbour. It must be one of the most Instagram-worthy spots in town. The fitness room is adjacent to the pool and bar, and also offers the same amazing views from the treadmills and cycles in case you needed extra motivation to workout.

Eat In

The third floor hosts the Champagne Bar, which can seat 110 making it Sydney’s largest. There is a large range of Champagnes, but if you’re really trying to impress someone, check out the 2002 Louis Roederer Cristal Jeroboam. Surrounded in 24K gold latticework, the three-litre bottle will cost you a cool $22,000. Enjoy a glass of bubbles at dusk and watch as the city lights up.

Next door is restaurant Atelier, a Frenchinspired grill headed by executive chef Eric Costille, who is French, of course. Atelier combines the flavours of Southern France with locally sourced produce, meats and seafood grilled to perfection. The Bouillabaisse De Marseille was a delicious casserole of seafood delights, and the kangaroo carpaccio with ginger lime and nori dressing was as soft as butter.

Special Touches

I love a ritual, and the Sofitel has two clever rituals practiced daily. The first is the Plate Shining, which is done every day at 7am. Wearing white gloves, a porter will wipe the Sofitel name plate counter-clockwise (clockwise when in the Northern Hemisphere) seven times. The cloth is then folded five times and put in the ritual box. The Candle Ritual, inspired by the lights of Paris, takes place every evening in the lobby to mark the transition from day to night. It lasts about 15 minutes and leaves a warm candlelit glow.

NEXT EDITION / WINTER 2019

Earth watch

SUSTAINABILITY & CONSERVATION IN LUXURY TRAVEL & THE ORGANISATIONS LEADING THE WAY

ON SALE MAY 30

The stunning boat or seaplane access only Calabash Bay Lodge offers a secluded eco-luxury nature escape on an exclusive use basis.

Encircled by 3 national parks, it’s perfect for couples or family retreats - with private chef in house dining, pillowtop beds with plush linens, Italian rain showers, Aspar & ROHR Remedy spa goodies, water toys including kayaks, SUPs, fishing rods & a guest boat - and it’s only 5 mins to the iconic Glenn Murcutt designed hatted restaurant Berowra Waters Inn.

Whatever the occasion, Calabash Bay Lodge is a beautiful place to relax, indulge and celebrate life.

STIR THE HEART STIR THE SOUL

Overflowing with secluded beaches, scenic vistas and incredible adventures, The Islands of Tahiti are where romantic dreams become reality. Come and fall in love all over again as you explore what it means to be