Luxury Travel Magazine - Issue 78

THAILAND MALDIVES

NEW YORK

SOUTH AFRICA

PRAGUE

JAPAN

FRANCE

TAHITI

Earth to Down

THE GREEN REVOLUTION AND THE BRANDS COMMITTED TO CHANGE

LUXURY POLAR EXPEDITION CRUISES

Arctic | Antarctic | Northwest Passage

“Glittering white, shining blue, raven black… the land looks like a fairytale. Pinnacle after pinnacle, peak after peak – crevassed, wild as any land on our globe, it lies, unseen and untrodden. It is a wonderful feeling to travel along it.” – Roald Amundsen

Whether exploring the High Arctic and the legendary Northwest Passage, or plying the Southern Seas on a voyage to Antarctica, a luxury expedition cruise with A&K immerses you in the exotic and the unspoiled. Unlike other cruises, every A&K voyage promises a fresh and unscripted adventure thanks to an expertly-crafted itinerary, award-winning Expedition Team, on-board education and enrichment programmes, and an incredible expedition vessel.

Talk to your travel agent or call Abercrombie & Kent on 1300 851 800.

www.abercrombiekent.com.au

Book now and save up to $16,000 per couple on 2019 Northwest Passage and $14,700 per couple on 2019-20 Antarctica cruises. Visit abercrombiekent.com.au for details.

GO BEYOND. IMMERSE INTO THE ICONIC LUXURY OF HAYMAN ISLAND BY INTERCONTINENTAL®.

Welcome to a new era of immersive luxury in the heart of the Great Barrier Reef. Opening 1 July, Hayman Island by InterContinental will immerse you in the breathtaking natural beauty of the Whitsundays, iconic private island experiences and sacred moments of connection with your family, friends and yourself. Discover a place of visual and visceral beauty so deep, it will leave you feeling transformed.

To celebrate the opening of Hayman Island by InterContinental you’re invited to enjoy 25% off your stay between 1 July and 15 October 2019.

To learn more about this exclusive opening special visit www.haymanisland.intercontinental.com, email hayman.reservations@ihg.com or call 07 5501 9992.

Conditions apply. Subject to availability.Valid for stays of three-nights or more.

Playdate

DiscoveryourLuxury

From the Publisher

Sitting in a café at an airport recently, in an Australian capital city I won’t name and shame, I was surprised to see a handful of customers enjoying their ‘have-here’ beverages from take-away cups. Worse still, those customers were airline sta – again, no shaming, but it was something that surprised and disappointed me.

Of course, we are all travelling a di erent trajectory en route to better social and environmental behaviour, but I thought the reusable-cup message would have ltered (pun intended) far enough to halt such blatant waste.

Seems we have a way to go, although we hardly needed this anecdote to realise that. Like a seed, the word ‘sustainability’ has sprouted and continues to grow as people come to realise the dire impact so many human behaviours are having on our precious planet. I habour a sense of guilt for the negative impacts of tourism. Of course, I contribute to the problem. But we are all wiser now and better equipped to make positive choices. I see a brighter future in my daughters, members of a generation that is collectively demanding change. It’s time we all joined them.

Our Digital Editor Madelin Tomelty’s experience in the Maldives recently drives the issue home. She has written about the experience, as well as the damage done and inroads being made, in our cover story (Page 66). It is great to see the commitment some operators, big and small, are making in this space. It’s easy enough to talk the talk, but you’re doing more harm

than good if you’re not walking the walk as well. My hat goes o to those that are thoroughly embracing progressive thinking.

For a pictorial illustration of the kind of beauty we should be desperately trying to protect, turn to Page 99 for photographer Chris McLennan’s photo essay. Specialising in wildlife, culture and adventure, Chris has captured striking imagery all over the world and we’re so glad he’s sharing some of it with us. e very idea of his subjects in decline is unbearable.

It’s that time of year again. Our Gold List winners have been announced (Page 44) and deserve to bask in the recognition. Now in its 15th year, the readers’-choice awards attracted a record number of voters – thank you to the 7000! – and votes, with more than 60,000 cast. There is no trick to winning a Gold List award; you must simply impress our discerning readership. This year’s winners prove, once again, our readers have fantastic taste. Congratulations to all.

Also included in this jam-packed issue: a deep sense of wellness in ailand; o -the-beaten-track in Japan; French winter wonderland, Courchevel; a city guide to picturesque Prague; the fresh avours of Tahiti; safari for the soul in South Africa; and more.

As always, thank you for ipping our (sustainably recycled!) pages and safe travels.

Gary Allen

FOLLOWING ANCIENT FOOTSTEPS 122

Jennifer wrote her rst travel story fresh out of journalism school and 25 years later, she still jumps at the chance to see a new corner of the world. She lives in San Francisco and spends every free moment in the Sierra Nevada mountains. Her teenage daughter recently joined her for an adventure in Peru, and she now has the travel bug too. For this issue, the pair ventured to Japan.

Mark Parren Taylor

BLACK GOLD 130

Mark Parren Taylor is a London-based travel and food photojournalist. is year he’s heading to China (the six-day visa-free transit makes visits to Shanghai or Beijing pain free!), probably while on his way to Japan (to hike in pristine countryside away from the scrum of the Rugby World Cup).

“It’s that time of year again. Our Gold List winners have been announced and deserve to bask in the recognition - with a record number of voters – thank you to the 7000!”

Jennifer Maeder

DISCOVER AUTHENTIC BEAUTY

DISCOVER THE TRUE SPIRIT OF THE MEDITERRANEAN WITH COMBINATION VOYAGES

DESIGNED TO COMBINE

We were born here. Welcome to our home, the Mediterranean Sea – the scents, the flavours, the sky and all of the wonders beneath it. We have the perfect fleet of luxurious and intimate ships to reach every unique corner across 13 countries in this breathtaking region. Our enthralling Mediterranean Combination Cruises do exactly that: combine two or more magical voyages to create one superbly immersive itinerary. Typically spanning across 14 to 35 nights, and ideal for long-haul travellers, we have carefully curated some perfectly balanced journeys that will allow you to prolong the joy of sailing with Silversea and experience the best destinations that the Mediterranean has to offer.

Additionally, extraordinary savings are applicable on all Combination Cruises, meaning that seeing the world in style has never been made better sense. Voyage fares begin at only AU$373 per person, per day.

Be our guest and let us take you closer to the true beauty of the Mediterrean.

SILVERSEA’S ALL INCLUSIVE LIFESTYLE

The Silversea all-inclusive lifestyle means embracing the moment, without having to wonder about the cost. We invite you to experience whispered luxury onboard our beautiful fleet. During your voyage, we aim to surprise and delight you, below are just a few ways how:

Spacious, elegantly appointed ocean-view suites, most with a private veranda

Personalised butler service for every suite

Up to eight restaurants on board, diverse cuisine and open seating dining

Nearly one crew member for every guest

Complimentary 24-hour in suite dining

Complimentary Wi-Fi and onboard gratuities included for all guests

Complimentary beverages served throughout the ship and in-suite, including Champagne, select wines, beers and spirits

EXECUTIVE EDITOR & PUBLISHER

Gary Allen gary@luxurytravelmedia.com.au

GENERAL MANAGER & MANAGING EDITOR

Richard Bunting t: +61 424 138 806 rbunting@luxurytravelmedia.com.au

DIGITAL EDITOR & FEATURE WRITER

Madelin Tomelty mtomelty@luxurytravelmedia.com.au

ART DIRECTOR

Kyle Sansbury design@luxurytravelmedia.com.au

CONTRIBUTING EDITOR & COPY EDITOR

Kate Symons ksymons@luxurytravelmedia.com.au

HEALTH & WELLNESS EDITOR

Kelly Allen kallen@luxurytravelmedia.com.au

CRUISE CONTRIBUTING EDITOR

Sally Macmillan sallymacmillan@bigpond.com

US CONTRIBUTOR

Jennifer Maeder jbmaeder@gmail.com

EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS

Karissa Perry & Kristina Bone

DIRECTORS Scott & Robin Venturelli

ON THE COVER PARKROYAL on Pickering, Singapore

© Photograph courtesy Vladimir Shikalov Instagram: @shika.views Email: vova.shika@gmail.com Published

VERANDA SUITE SILVER SPIRIT

SPACCANAPOLI

The Island for all Senses

Nested in the collection of islands that form the Noonu Atoll, a 45-minute seaplane flight north of Malé, Velaa Private Island is a “beyond luxury” hideaway and an unrivalled place to restore your body and mind through play, relaxation and nourishment. Indulge in a personalised treatment at our award-winning Spa My Blend by Clarins and rejuvenate in the Maldives’ only snow room and Cloud 9 pod. Explore the underwater world with Velaa’s own miniature submarine and fulfil your adrenaline fuelled fantasies with an extensive range of high tech water sports toys. Improve your stroke at the 9-hole Velaa Golf Academy by Olazabal or engage in other recreational sports including tennis, squash and badminton. Savour a lavish tasting menu in our over water signature restaurant Aragu, a refined Teppanyaki grill degustation at Tavaru, or fine dining international cuisine on the beach at Athiri.

We look forward to welcoming you soon at Velaa Private Island. May your Maldivian memories last for a lifetime.

T: +960 6565 000 reservations@velaaisland.com www.velaaprivateisland.com

velaaisland velaaprivateisland

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5 LUXURY HOTELS IN CANCUN FOR YOUR NEXT TRIP TO MEXICO

With its picturesque beaches, seemingly endless outdoor activities and pulsing nightlife, Cancun is one of Mexico’s most appealing escapes. Here’s where to rest your head at the end of each sun-soaked day.

luxurytravelmag.com.au/article/top-5-luxury-hotels-in-cancun

2019 TOP TRAVEL TRENDS

Far from the usual palm-tree-lined getaways that used to frequent travellers’ Wander Lists, in 2019 people are on the lookout for something out of the ordinary for their next holiday. Head online for more.

luxurytravelmag.com.au/article/these-are-2019s-top-travel-trends

LT / INTERACTIVE

Soul Safari

A CULTURAL ODYSSEY TO UNCOVER THE ART, HISTORY AND VOODOO RITUALS OF WEST AFRICA

Namibia and Rwanda might be the African countries on travellers’ radars this year, but if you like to stray from the pack, why not venture to the largely undiscovered West African countries of Ghana, Togo and Benin? Widely considered the ‘Africa that once was’, West Africa is a diverse and culturally rich destination full of soul, where traditions survive like nowhere else on the continent. Read our interactive article to uncover a fascinating world of voodoo ‘magic’, UNESCO World Heritage villages, and solemn slave castles.

luxurytravelmag.com.au/article/a-soul-safari-through-west-africa

@LUXURYTRAVELAU@LUXURYTRAVELAUFACEBOOK.COM/LUXURYTRAVELMAGAZINEPINTEREST.COM/LUXURYTRAVELAU

PICTURE PERFECT

YOU KNOW THOSE PEOPLE THAT GET BORED REALLY EASILY? e ones that go to an island paradise and, after a few hours on a pool lounger, don’t know what to do with themselves? We know just the spot. Soneva Jani in the Maldives delivers the best of both worlds – the dreamy azure waters, squeaky-clean white sand and ultra-luxury villas you’d expect from the world-class destination as well as a host of unique activities to impress even the most restless at heart. e overwater Cinema Paradiso is a great place to start. Big screen? Check. A catalogue of classic and contemporary lms? Check and check. Popcorn? Check, and complimentary, of course. You can even book a private screening and let Soneva’s chefs craft a personalised menu of comfort food and nibbles. All that’s left to do is settle into a beanbag and watch your favourite stars, under the stars at one of the most beautiful open-air cinemas in the world. And for anyone that still gets bored, well – that’s what the cocktails are for.

soneva.com

A STAR IS

HAYMAN ISLAND BY INTERCONTINENTAL

(RE)BORN

IT MIGHT HAVE TAKEN MORE THAN TWO YEARS and a multimillion-dollar investment, but the star of the Whitsundays that is Hayman Island will shine brightly once again when it reopens as Hayman Island by InterContinental next month.

It’s a new chapter for Hayman Island – a sandy sanctuary that has entertained generations of Australian and international travellers for nearly seven decades – and thankfully, the things we’ve long loved about the renowned destination aren’t going anywhere. e island’s authentic Australian charm will ring out louder than ever, with its 400 hectares of tropical island landscape and unbeatable panorama of the world-famous Whitsundays remaining the star of the show. Meanwhile, a luxurious new design concept showcasing open-plan accommodations with sleek, modern interiors will ensure aesthetes are just as satis ed as the nature lovers.

ere are 166 stylish accommodation options including opulent suites and beachfront villas, lagoon and poolside rooms, and a new Beach House, which o ers a private slice of Hayman heaven with its three suites and multiple private pools.

A collection of luxury private residences perched on the island’s hilltops will also be available to rent for those who want the holiday rental experience with the indulgent perks of a ve-star hotel stay. Guests can choose from ve unique restaurants for lunch and dinner, while an immersive on-island spa, complete with 13 treatment rooms, will bliss out even the most tightly wound travellers. And for those travelling with kids, a new kids’ club along with light adventure activities means multi-generational holidays are as well catered for as romantic escapes. Hayman Island, we’ve missed you. ihg.com

lancemore.com.au/alamanda

character full of

RICHARD BUNTING DISCOVERS THE MAGIC OF A DISNEY-BRANDED ADVENTURE IN HAWAII

WHEN YOU BECOME A PARENT, THE SO-CALLED MAGICAL WORLD

of Disney is suddenly thrust back into your life. So, when my wife and I were planning our Hawaiian holiday – an adventure we wanted our 15-month-old daughter, Emma, to enjoy as much as we would – Aulani came to the front of mind.

A Disney resort and spa, Aulani is located on the west coast of Oahu, an easy 40-minute transfer from Honolulu’s international airport. We arrive ready to relax, but also braced for an onslaught of life-sized Disney characters, such is the compromise of parenthood. ankfully, the reality of Aulani is much di erent. e resort is thoughtfully designed with Hawaiian culture in mind and the Disney characters – an important inclusion, to be sure – are gently woven into the experience.

e foyer is grand and plush-costume free, providing a sophisticated welcome, and the intricate frescos are a nod of recognition to some signi cant players in Hawaiian history.

From Disney history, it is Mickey’s lovable pup, Pluto, we spot rst. He is wandering below our balcony, which we have made a bee-line for in an e ort to get a lay of the land. e balcony is a highlight of our huge one-bedroom villa, which also boasts a large living/dining area, a massive bedroom and an impressive bathroom, spread out over two rooms. A onebedroom suite can sometimes close in on you when there’s a child in tow, but that certainly isn’t the case at Aulani. Decor is fresh and light with splashes of Hawaiian print driving home the holiday vibe.

Our belongings unloaded, we head downstairs to see if we can track down Pluto and friends. We are hoping to catch a glimpse of Goofy, Stitch and, of course, Minnie and Mickey, but instead discover a network of pools, waterslides built into manmade mountains, and a mesmerising lagoon that I am certain is calling my name.

e lagoon is lined with activity huts and sun beds so we quickly nd our spot and hit the water. e perfect temperature! e lagoon is an ideal place to spend the day swimming, sun-baking and building sandcastles. All around us families are enjoying themselves one way or another – not hard when paddleboards, splash zones, tubing adventures and whirlpool spas are all included in the vast o ering.

ere is also an opportunity to snorkel or swim Rainbow Reef. e 353-square-metre purpose-built reef is teeming with vibrant marine life and guests are invited to take the plunge for a closer look. Not a water babe? No worries. e sight is just as colourful through the viewing window.

Before we know it, it is late afternoon and time to head back for a drink and dinner. e resort has nine cafés, bars and restaurants, all with something unique to o er, but it’s hard for us to go past Makahiki, a bu et-style restaurant with fresh local produce and international dishes.

e next morning, we are back at Makahiki for a breakfast with a di erence. Emma is going to meet Mickey and Minnie over bacon and eggs! is is a must-do for any family staying at the resort. Emma’s face lights up when she meets these two iconic mice and, as parents, we can’t help but be caught in the moment. e breakfast itself becomes almost irrelevant as we are intermittently interrupted by not only Mickey and Minnie, but also their good friends Pluto and Goofy, who pop by for a chat and a cuddle.

For those lucky enough to bag a kid-free evening, e ‘Ōlelo Room o ers delicious cocktails with a side serve of live Hawaiian music while the Wailana Pool Bar is also a chic place to unwind. For us though, it is back to the lagoon. Ahhh, the Magical World of Disney!

disneyaulani.com

NOW, EVEN MORE TO LOVE

UNVEILING 13 AUBERGE BEACH VILLAS SET ALONG PRIME BEACHFRONT FACING THE TURQUOISE WATERS OF THE BEQA LAGOON

Sky’s the Limit with New Private Jet Travel

Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts has unveiled plans for an all-new Four Seasons Private Jet that will take flight in early 2021, replacing the company’s current aircraft. Christian Clerc, President, Worldwide Hotel Operations, Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts, says the new jet is being fully customised by Four Seasons in response to increasing demand. “Building on the tremendous success of our Private Jet program to date, with consistent sell-outs, waitlists, and nearperfect guest satisfaction rates, our drive to continuously innovate and push the conventional limits of travel has led to this new opportunity to experience Four Seasons like never before,” he says.

Dana Kalczak, Four Seasons Vice President, Design, adds the new Four Seasons Private Jet will evoke the bygone glamour of air travel coupled with thoughtful, guest-centric design. “When designing the new Four Seasons Private Jet, we were inspired by the glamour and prestige of air travel in times past, when every flight was a special occasion,” she says.

The jet will have the widest and tallest cabin in its class and 48 custom handcrafted leather seats with purpose-built personal ottomans, while a new spacious lounge area will become a stage for a series of Four Seasons chefs, mixologists, wellness experts, and arts and culture aficionados to showcase their craft in interactive workshops.

For those who can’t wait until 2021, luxury travel operator Captain’s Choice has released three new private jet journeys departing Sydney in 2020: Wonders of the World, The Ultimate South America and The Silk Road by Private Jet. Each journey caters to just 50 guests, with everything from accommodation to drinks, travel insurance, sightseeing, luggage valet, transfers as well as exclusive ‘Your World’ experiences all included in the tariff.

The Wonders of the World by Private Jet departs Sydney on 4 April 2020; The Ultimate South America by Private Jet on 3 May 2020; and The Silk Road by Private Jet on 27 May 2020. Fares start from $86,500 per person.

GROOVE

EXPLORE LOCOMOTE

the World Heritage-listed Iranian cities of Isfahan and Tehran from a privately chartered train

CAPTAIN’S CHOICE 2020 HIGHLIGHTS

at Rojo Tango in the Hotel Faena designed by Philippe Starck

in Art Deco luxury aboard the Belmond Hiram Bingham train to Machu Picchu

Feel life´s potential

Experience a complete wellness journey at Kamalaya Wellness Sanctuary and Holistic Spa, Koh Samui, and restore your health and vitality with one of our inclusive programs

TINY HOUSES

It seems every other day a new tiny holiday house appears – and we’re still no less fascinated than we were the first time we saw one. Seclusion and nature immersion is the modern-day luxury, and as the tiny house movement gains momentum, more people are embracing sustainable small getaways.

Tiny Away (tinyaway.com), considered one of the first companies to integrate the concept of tiny houses with eco-tourism, has built 12 sixmetre houses across Victoria, with a further nine throughout NSW.

Unyoked (unyoked.co) has also been luring burnt-out city dwellers with their self-contained private cabins in the eastern states’ countryside with the promise of “minimum footprint, maximum chill” and “Attenborough-level nature”. All cabins are conveniently located within two-hours of the city, but there’s a catch – guests only find out the location of their hideout two days before the expedition. It might be quirky, it might even be novel, but it sure is a good way to get lost, without getting lost. You might even find yourself in the process.

NEEDS MORE S.A.L.T.

Silversea Cruises has announced a new culinary program, to launch in August 2020, that will showcase the local and authentic cuisine of the various regions the cruise line sails to.

Entitled ‘Sea and Land Taste’ or S.A.L.T., the program will launch alongside Silver Moon, a new all-suite vessel, and has been designed in collaboration with Adam Sachs, a multi-award-winning journalist and former editor-in-chief of food magazine Saveur

The S.A.L.T. program will be tailored according to the sailed region and will incorporate both ship-based and shoreside enrichments including market trips, winery visits, dining experiences in regional restaurants and bars, food and wine tastings, special dinners with guest hosts, food lectures, cooking classes as well as demonstrations from local guest chefs and food experts.

Drift into Luxury at Four Seasons Resort Sayan

Want an innovative check-in experience? Arriving at your hotel by river raft should do it. The Four Seasons Resort Sayan in Bali is already known for its magical rooftop forest arrival, but now the resort is o ering guests the chance to experience a slow resort reveal from under a canopy of riverside trees in Ubud.

The river raft check in is available to guests transferring from its sister resort, the beachfront Four Seasons Jimbaran Bay on Bali’s southwest coast, and instead of the usual 90-minute road transfer, travellers will be taken by private transfer to the departure point for a two-hour rafting adventure down Bali’s longest river, the Ayung.

While guests enjoy a leisurely guided adventure through Class III rapids with views of lush jungle, rice terraces and majestic gorges, their luggage continues to the destination by car.

After discovering secluded sites, rafters land directly at the resort’s Riverside restaurant where wait-sta ensure a seamless and speedy check in. Where do we sign up?

A dedicated S.A.L.T. Lab will provide a space for guests to explore culinary cultures from around the world, while a S.A.L.T. restaurant will serve regional cuisine that will adapt to the destination.

silversea.com

is the most scenic country for a road trip

SOURCE: THE GLOBAL ROAD TRIP INDEX

‘BOUT TIME YOU SAW THE BALTICS

Luxury tour operator Abercrombie & Kent has released a unique, 10-day private group journey through the Baltic states. As the name suggests, Capitals of the Baltic will take in the three Baltic capitals – Tallinn in Estonia, Riga in Latvia and Vilnius in Lithuania.

Highlights in Tallinn – one of the bestpreserved medieval towns in northern Europe – include the onion-domed Russian Orthodox Alexander Nevsky Cathedral and the 15thcentury Raeapteek, Europe’s oldest apothecary.

In the Art Deco architectural wonder that is Riga, the Sigulda open-air sculpture park, set amidst dramatic castle ruins, and an exclusive behind-the-scenes tour of the majestic Latvian

PAR S

Opera, will have art and history enthusiasts wide-eyed.

In the modern, cultural melting pot of Lithuania, meanwhile, tourers can take in the grandeur of the Presidential Palace –a 14th-century island castle at Trakai, built in the middle of one of the region’s most picturesque lakes – and the remains of a 13th-century city at the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Kernavė. A&K’s 10-day Capitals of the Baltic private journey is priced from $11,665 per person, twin share. Sightseeing of all major attractions and luxury accommodation along with pinchyourself fairytale moments included. abercrombiekent.com.au

VIETNAM AIRLINES TO FLY DIRECT TO USA?

Vietnam Airlines could soon be flying direct to the United States, thanks to the US Federal Aviation Administration’s recent declaration that Vietnam complies with international safety standards. The airline will also be able to codeshare with American carriers.

Dinh Viet Thang, head of the Civil Aviation Authority of Vietnam, told Vietnamese newspaper VN Express that direct routes to the US would open up a new market for Vietnamese airlines: “Non-stop flights from Vietnam to the US will be a brand new market full of potential for local airlines, as no international airline has operated them so far,” he said.

There are currently no non-stop flights between Vietnam and the United States, despite the 2.1 million-strong Vietnamese population living in the US and a booming American visitor market.

The number of US tourists to Vietnam in 2018 had increased 11.9 per cent on the 2017 figure and 60 per cent compared with five years earlier, according to Vietnam’s Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism. Furthermore, the US is Vietnam’s fourth-largest source of international visitors, following China, South Korea and Japan.

The US-specific data is indicative of a broader tourism trend, with Vietnam’s civil aviation regulator showing the country’s air tra c increased 16 per cent on average each year between 2010 and 2017.

The International Air Transport Association projects Vietnam will become the world’s fifth-fastest-growing aviation market by 2035.

“…a company must have a clear purpose beyond making money. It must serve and contribute to the society in which it operates and it should not impact negatively on the environment.”

– Sonu Shivdasani on sustainable tourism. Page 66

is the world’s best city for foodies

For the of your life...

BALI HOTEL WANDERS DOWN EVER-GREENER PATH

Melia Bali in Nusa Dua has announced further initiatives to be added to its award-winning Melia Bali Sustainability Program.

The latest phase tackles the use of damaging plastics, eliminating them where possible and giving guests the opportunity to purchase reusable personal steel drinking bottles.

The resort has also introduced biodegradable drinking straws made from corn and cassava, ecocups, reusable bin liners, room slippers made from

woven bamboo, ceramic dishes for serving butter, wooden coasters, and reusable pillowcases to replace plastic bags for collecting garden waste.

Melia Bali has form in this area; it was the first hotel in Asia to be EarthCheck Platinum-accredited. The much-coveted Platinum Certification is only awarded to organisations that can consistently demonstrate operational practices that adhere to the highest environmental standards over a period of 10 years.

A WINTER WONDERLAND WITH YOUR ONE AND ONLY

Tree-peepers and animal lovers, prepare to be in your element, in the elements, this winter at Emirates

One&Only Wolgan Valley. The luxury property’s Winter Wonderland package is now available, o ering a selection of nature-focused activities on top of the usual high-end o ering of accommodation; daily gourmet breakfast, lunch and dinner; selected regional wines and beers with meals; non-alcoholic beverages and an in-villa snack bar. Take a Signature Wildlife and Sundowners Tour in the heart of the Aussie bush to encounter the Blue Mountains’ nocturnal creatures, and then warm-up by the campfire with a Winter Stargazing Talk replete with flame-roasted marshmallows and mulled wine. And when it’s time to find your inner zen, a 60-minute One&Only Spa treatment should do the trick. The Winter Wonderland o er starts at $2090 per villa, per evening, twin-share for mid-week stays and is valid for sale and travel until 31 August 2019. oneandonlyresorts.com

LT / DISCOVERY EDEN EQUINE

Next time you’re thinking of taking a weekender from Sydney, why not head to Eden Equine, where you’ll not only bear witness to 36 hectares of green paddocks, but be supporting a good cause, too. Set in the charming town of Bilpin in the Blue Mountains, the fully working Equine Farm o ers agistment and riding lessons as well as Equine Assisted Learning (EAL), a type of therapy in which horses are used to help those with behavioural and anxiety disorders. Eden Equine also regularly hosts Farm Days for children su ering from trauma and their families, and o ers scholarships and subsidised sessions to ensure all children can access their program.

The five self-contained one-, two- and three-bedroom luxury cabins overlook the picturesque Blue Mountains and feature polished concrete floors, timber walls and a cosy wood fireplace, creating a romantic setting for a verdant country escape. Just don’t forget about your neighbours – the property has 12 horses and ponies, three miniature donkeys, alpacas, cows, sheep, several cheeky goats and Sir Russell, an RSPCA rescue pig who’s partial to a good earscratching. The more, the merrier, right? edenequine.com.au

The number of people that have participated in One Island One Voice, Bali’s Biggest Clean Up over the past three years.

DAYDREAM ISLAND

Daydream Island has reopened its doors after an extensive, twoyear renovation and rebuild following 2017’s Tropical Cyclone Debbie. Located in the heart of the Whitsundays, the island paradise is just one kilometre long and is known for its white-sand beaches, tropical rainforest and a living reef teeming with marine life. The resort itself has been transformed with new restaurants, bars, expansive suites with views looking out to the Whitsundays, an all-new pool and even a new underwater observatory. daydreamisland.com

A Cutting-Edge Spectacle at Sofitel Sydney Darling Harbour

If you like to reserve bubbly for celebrations, how about raising a glass to the French tradition of ‘sabrage’ – slicing open a Champagne bottle with a cavalry saber? Guests of Sofitel Sydney Darling Harbour’s award-winning Champagne Bar can now order their very own sabrage ceremony, available seven nights a week and taking place against the dazzling backdrop of the Darling Harbour skyline. The theatrical art of sabrage goes back to the French Revolution when Napoleon delivered the nowfamous words: “Champagne! In victory one deserves it; in defeat one needs it.” But we think embracing joie de vivre is as good a reason as any for a spectacle as fabulous – and delicious – as this one. champagnebarsydney.com

THE JEWEL IN CHANGI’S CROWN OPENS IN SINGAPORE

If any airport can take the pain out of a long-distance layover, it’s Singapore’s Changi Airport, and even more so with the recent opening of the new 135,700-square-metre Jewel Changi Airport. A multifaceted tourism experience that goes far beyond the standard airport encounter, Jewel is already wowing travellers with world-class shopping and dining, accommodation, lush greenery and record-breaking attractions. “The vision for Jewel Changi Airport is to be a destination where ‘The World meets Singapore, and Singapore meets the World’,” said Hung Jean, Chief Executive O cer, Jewel Changi Airport Development. Designed by world-renowned architect Moshe Safdie and featuring a distinctive

dome-shaped facade, Jewel boasts the majestic 40-metre HSBC Rain Vortex, the world’s tallest indoor waterfall, surrounded by the manicured grounds of the Shiseido Forest Valley. Playful attractions such as the Manulife Sky Nets, Hedge Maze, Mirror Maze and Discovery Slides, which were designed to blend into the unique indoor garden environment, will open in June. With Jewel, Changi Airport now boasts more than 800 retail and dining outlets along with the first YOTELAIR property in Asia. Ideal for short daytime or overnight layovers, YOTELAIR’s 130 smartly designed ‘cabins’ are available for stays from four hours.

jewelchangiairport.com

Qantas

SYDNEY TO HONG KONG

Flight Number: QF117 Airbus A330-200 / Class: Business Suite / Seat: 4E / Flight time: 9 hours 40 minutes / Reviewed by: Steve Hui

Check In

is is an overnight ight, with a 9.20pm departure, arriving into Hong Kong at 5am. At this time, Sydney airport is quiet.

ere was no line at the Qantas business class check-in, and the passage through immigration and security was a breeze.

We enjoyed a satisfying dinner in the Qantas business lounge with plans to skip the on-board food and maximise sleep. e food and drink in the lounge were good.

Cabin

e Qantas Business Suite cabin has a 1:2:1 layout giving everyone direct and comfortable access to the aisle.

Seat

I was seated in the middle row, but the con guration ensured I enjoyed plenty of space, legroom and table space. A well-designed storage area held my phone, my glasses and other bits and pieces. My seat was pre- tted with a comfortable mattress, and a bottle of water and noise-cancelling headphones were at the ready.

e seats have an approved seat recline, which can be used from take-o right through to landing, and was much more comfortable than sitting upright. Unfortunately, the retractablesash seatbelt required at the ight bookends cut into my shoulders a bit.

e seat is controlled via a touch-sensitive panel with multiple options including a massage function.

Service

e service was warm and welcoming. As it was an overnight ight, the crew understood most of the passengers were keen to rest. ey e ciently went about the cabin collecting menu choices and kept noise to a minimum.

By the time we started taxiing, I had already set my seat to the partial-recline position and had dozed o undisturbed.

Food

I opted for sleep over food, but did notice the menu’s special ‘sleep sooner’ selections, which are quickly served. e regular menu featured pan-fried polenta, seared barramundi, roast chicken, and braised beef. Champagne was either Duval-Leroy Brut or Jacquart Brut Mosaique, and a selection of Australian wines, beers and the regular spirits was also available.

Entertainment

A large range of content was available on the 16-inch touchscreen TVs. I appreciated the quick access to the route map, which showed the time and distance remaining to our destination (this is often the most important information), and another button that allowed screens to be easily dimmed or turned o , giving you and others the chance to sleep without a bright screen beaming near you.

Highs

is was a text-book great ight. It was on time and had no turbulence, service was e cient and friendly, and I maximised my sleep. And I had ready access to water and the restroom.

Lows

Aside from the restrictive seatbelt on take-o and landing –a minor complaint – there were none.

Our Rating *****

The Fine Print Baggage: 40kg (23kg maximum per item). Higher allowances for Qantas Club, Silver, Gold and Platinum members.

Loyalty Program: Qantas Frequent Flyer

WiFi: No

Pyjamas: Signature Qantas pyjamas

Amenities kit: Stylish Qantas Curates amenity kits featuring ASPAR by Aurora skincare products

GET TO THE POINTS

IT HAS BEEN ALMOST 40 YEARS SINCE AMERICAN AIRLINES launched the rst frequent- yer program. AAdvantage, as it was branded, had 283,000 members at the time. Now there are said to be around 100 million.

e growth has been enormous. Today, most airlines o er frequent- yer programs, encouraging travellers to y more often and – hopefully – remain loyal. But working out which program is best for you can be a complex equation.

Di erent programs give members access to di erent experiences, and not all points carry the same value. But I’ve done plenty of groundwork. Here are some of the most luxurious experiences available through various rewards programs, and what it will cost you.

Fancy your trip with a double bed and sliding door for the utmost in privacy? Singapore Airlines’ new A380 First Class Suites are available for members who hold Singapore Kris yer points, with just 85,000 points needed for a lap in luxury from Sydney to Singapore, one-way.

In Issue 77, I reviewed the famous Emirates First Class Suites, highlighting the shower suite that is larger than many New York apartments. For 144,000 points, Emirates Skywards members can score a one-way journey from Sydney to Dubai. Qantas members are also in luck, thanks to a partnership between the two airlines. It’ll also be 144,000 Qantas points to get on board.

If showering at 30,000 feet piques your interest, the Etihad First Apartments can also be of service. Also outlined in Issue 77, each private apartment boasts four square metres, enough space for a single bed and separate chair, which is sure to be useful while you’re deciding what to order with the on-board chef. One-way from Sydney to Abu Dhabi requires 136,249 Etihad Guest miles, or 152,500 Virgin Velocity points.

Qantas’s non-stop Perth to London ight is the quickest way to y between Australia and the UK. With in ight lighting specially designed by scientists to assist your body to y through time zones, and premium food and beverage o erings, the Qantas B787 Dreamliner is true to its name. Qantas is a Oneworld member so technically, points accumulated through fellow Oneworld airlines,

such as Cathay Paci c, British Airways and American Airlines, as well as partner Emirates, can also book this ight. Yet, I’ve seldom seen reward seats made available to anyone but Qantas members, for whom 112,000 points will cover a one-way business class ticket from Perth.

For luxury travellers headed to the USA, the Qantas First Class journey to Los Angeles and Dallas comes with access to the Neil Perry ne-dining restaurant in both the Sydney and Melbourne lounges, and a 30-minute spa treatment to get you relaxed ahead of the ight. Redeeming 144,000 and 168,000 Qantas points for Los Angeles and Dallas respectively will score you a seat while access is also available to members of Oneworld airlines, or Qantas partners, for various points values.

If socialising is more your style, Virgin Australia’s ‘ e Business’ Class journey to Los Angeles is a top pick, with its 10-person bar serving a range of ne spirits, and boutique wines and beers. For 95,500 Velocity points, your one-way trip from Sydney, Brisbane or Melbourne to Los Angeles is covered.

Flying Sydney to Los Angeles direct, Delta Airlines has upgraded its Boeing 777 and the new Delta One cabin features a Business Class suite with privacy door, memory-foam cushion and 18-inch entertainment screens. ose with 96,000 Velocity points can look to y one-way. e number of Delta miles required is in perpetual motion under the airline’s dynamic award system.

United Airlines takes a B787 Dreamliner to the skies with direct ights from Sydney to Los Angeles, San Francisco and Houston, and from Melbourne to Los Angeles. Polaris business class, complete with lie- at seats, Saks Fifth Avenue bedding and restaurant-quality dining, requires 80,000 United Mileage Plus points for travel dates before 15 November. After the 15th, United is moving to a dynamic award system. For Singapore Kris yer members, or members of Star Alliance airlines’ programs, the rate is 130,000 points.

For more information on Steve Hui, visit iflyflat.com.au

STEVE HUI , CEO AND FOUNDER OF IFLYFLAT, HAS DONE THE GROUNDWORK FOR YOU, OUTLINING THE MOST LUXURIOUS WAYS TO REDEEM YOUR FREQUENT-FLYER POINTS

“Qantas’s non-stop Perth to London flight is the quickest way to fly between Australia and the UK [and features] inflight lighting specially designed by scientists to assist your body to fly through time zones.”

Left: United’s Polaris lounge area at Newark Liberty International Airport, USA.

BAROSSA BOUNTY

MADELIN TOMELTY EMBARKS ON A BAROSSA VALLEY

RECONNAISSANCE TO LEARN WHY THE REGION HAS TAKEN OUT THE 2019 GOLD LIST AWARD FOR THE BEST AUSTRALIAN FOOD & WINE REGION

Arrival to St Hugo Winery

St Hugo vineyards

Hentley Farm

Henschke Cellar Door

St Hugo Restaurant

Appellation at The Louise

© Photograph courtesy of Nat Rogers

© Photograph courtesy of SATC, Martin Ritzmann

© Photograph courtesy of SATC, Svan Kovac

ANY FOODIE KNOWS THAT A SIGN OF A GOOD EPICUREAN

holiday is leaving with a tighter waistband, and after three days of gourmet touring in the Barossa Valley my jeans are satisfactorily snug. I didn’t waste any time in South Australia’s premier wine region. I came armed with an artillery of recommendations for the long weekend, from awardwinning wineries to hatted restaurants with panoramic vistas of those orderly vineyards, but I’ve since discovered that ying by the seat of my (fast-tightening) pants would have been equally successful.

It’s almost impossible to put a foot wrong. Simply drop into any one of the 80 cellar doors and you’re guaranteed good wine and a good time. e picturesque landscape and patchwork of historic parishes straight out of a children’s book will keep you wide-eyed as you journey from one location to the next.

As for the myriad gourmet eateries, don’t be surprised if you nd yourself forced to embark on a juice cleanse on your return to reality. But for me, the exquisite experiences that await in the Barossa make any number of kale smoothies worth it – and our readers seem to think so, too.

While it was a tight race for the Best Australian Food & Wine Region Gold List award, we’ve heard you loud and clear. From chardonnay to shiraz and the morsels in between, here are some of the delicious reasons why the Barossa Valley is Australia’s favourite food and wine region.

St Hugo

Many of the Barossa’s vineyard restaurants are ne-dining, serving up degustation experiences on white-clothed tables, and St Hugo is no exception. One of the most beautifully designed wineries you’ll nd in the Barossa, St Hugo’s restored historic interiors overlook the spellbinding symmetry of rolling green vineyards, and its luxurious wine lounge is all about sexy brown leather seats, warm wood and exposed stone walls. Everything about St Hugo feels expensive, but not at the cost of a warm and welcoming ambience. True foodies won’t want to miss the restaurant’s ‘Chef’s Table’ experience, either, which includes a personal tour of the historic site and a chef- and sommelier-led menu. Pure class. sthugo.com

Hentley Farm

Located among the Barossa’s voluptuous green hills in the heart of Seppelts eld is the charmer that is Hentley Farm. Housed in a cosy 1840s cottage, complete with an open replace, exposed stone walls and wood-beam ceilings, this boutique, single-estate vineyard has an award-winning cellar door and restaurant. A rotating set menu changes with the seasons and is presented from the cosiness of converted stables, dating back to the 1880s.

In the paddock-to-plate vein much of regional Australia’s restaurants are known for (and increasingly, city establishments, too), Hentley Farm’s restaurant has a strong focus on harvesting seasonal produce and foraging ingredients from the property’s 60 hectares. hentleyfarm.com.au

Henschke Cellars

One of the region’s most iconic wineries, Henschke Cellars is a sure- re list-topper on any good Barossa itinerary. With its original 1860s stone cellar, it oozes historic charm on the surface, and backs it up with a six generation-strong pedigree of winemaking. Recognised around the world for its innovative methods, dedication to environmentally sustainable practices, and, of course, really tasty wine, Henschke also o ers an exclusive VIP Tour and Tasting experience. Amble around the ancient, gnarled vines in the famed Hill of Grace vineyard, tour the working winery and round it out with a tasting of the Henschke icon wines – Hill of Grace, Hill of Roses, Mount Edelstone and Cyril Henschke – in the private cellar. henschke.com.au

Kellermeister

Another boutique, family-owned winery, Kellermeister is rated in the top seven per cent of wine producers in Australia, and in the past few years has had immense success on the world stage, winning numerous awards including the World’s Best Shiraz and Australia’s Best Shiraz at the Syrah du Monde 2018 in France. e winery has been awarded ve red stars by Australia’s most authoritative wine critic, James Halliday, since 2007 and it has the highest-scoring grenache in the 2019 Halliday Wine Companion. You can get a taste of those famous shirazes along with apple cider and forti ed wines at Kellermeister’s charming mud-brick cellar door, or step outside for one of the best views in the Barossa. kellermeister.com.au

Appellation

Luxury hotel The Louise’s intimate and understated on-site restaurant, Appellation, has long been considered one of the stars of the Barossa. The menu changes nightly and uses fresh, local ingredients in dishes such as: spencer gulf kingfish with stonefruit, buckwheat and sour cream; and coal-grilled squid with green pea mousse, fried potato, and herb and lime oil. Throw in sweeping vineyard views and a world-class wine list and your afternoon is sorted. thelouise.com.au/dine

The Details

The Barossa Valley is about a one-hour drive north of Adelaide. For more information visit southaustralia.com.

TO THE WINNERS & FINALISTS OF

Congratulations gold list the 2019

Our 15th Annual Gold List awards have been the most successful yet: Seven thousand voters; 60,000 votes; almost 200 finalists; and 25 winners. The result? This curated list of the best in luxury travel.

Thank you to everyone who voted!

PRIZE WINNER

KATHRYN SAUNDERS

PRIZE WINNER

TESS BOYER

SUBSCRIPTION WINNERS

BRUCE SHAW

SHARON DOSSETTER

TONI FEARN MAGGIE ONIONS

PAULETTE

WINNER

THE BEST City – Australia –Melbourne

FINALISTS

SYDNEY

BRISBANE

ADELAIDE

PERTH

HOBART

THE BEST Country

FINALISTS

ITALY

FRANCE

NEW ZEALAND

UK

USA

CANADA

SPAIN

GREECE

GERMANY

THE BEST LUXURY Resort – Australia –

WINNER

FINALISTS

LIZARD ISLAND, QLD

ALAMANDA PALM COVE, QLD EL QUESTRO, WA

EMIRATES ONE&ONLY WOLGAN VALLEY, NSW

LAKEHOUSE DAYLESFORD, VIC

SAFFIRE FREYCINET, TAS

BONVILLE, NSW

SOUTHERN OCEAN LODGE, SA

LONGTITUDE 131°, NT

THE BEST LUXURY

LT TEAM PICK

LIZARD ISLAND, QLD

THE BEST LUXURY

FINALISTS

THE LANGHAM, MELBOURNE

TREASURY ON COLLINS, MELBOURNE

CROWN TOWERS MELBOURNE

CROWN PERTH

PARK HYATT SYDNEY

PARK HYATT MELBOURNE

SHANGRI-LA SYDNEY

PALAZZO VERSACE GOLD COAST

LARMONT SYDNEY

THE BEST LUXURY

Overseas

WINNER

THE BEST LUXURY

FINALISTS

SONEVA JANI MALDIVES

AYANA BALI

COMO MALDIVES

FOUR SEASONS BORA BORA

KOKOMO PRIVATE ISLAND FIJI

LIKULIKU LAGOON RESORT, FIJI

ONE&ONLY REETHI RA MALDIVES

SIX SENSES FIJI

SOFITEL FIJI

THE BEST LUXURY

Hotel – Overseas –

WINNER HONG KONG

FINALISTS

THE SAVOY, LONDON

PARK HYATT NEW YORK

HOTEL DE CRILLON - A ROSEWOOD HOTEL, PARIS

BURJ AL ARAB JUMEIRAH, DUBAI

THE LANGHAM, LONDON

MANDARIN ORIENTAL HONG KONG

SOFITEL SINGAPORE

THE GREENWICH HOTEL, NEW YORK

VILLA D’ESTE, ITALY

THE BEST LUXURY

Resort

– South Pacific –WINNER

FINALISTS

LAUCALA ISLAND, FIJI

FOUR SEASONS BORA BORA

VOMO ISLAND FIJI

LIKULIKU LAGOON RESORT, FIJI

INTERCONTINENTAL TAHITI

ST REGIS BORA BORA SIX SENSES FIJI

THE BEST LUXURY Resort

– South Pacific –

LT TEAM PICK LAUCALA ISLAND

THE BEST LUXURY

Train Journey

WINNER

FINALISTS

BELMOND - VENICE SIMPLON-ORIENT-EXPRESS, EUROPE

ROCKY MOUNTAINEER, CANADA | BLUE TRAIN, SOUTH AFRICA

INDIAN PACIFIC, AUSTRALIA | ROVOS RAIL, SOUTH AFRICA

THE BEST LUXURY

Ski Resort

– in the World –

– in the World –WINNER

FINALISTS

ASPEN SNOWMASS, USA | COURCHEVEL, FRANCE

FALLS CREEK, AUSTRALIA | NISEKO, JAPAN

QUEENSTOWN, NZ | ST MORITZ, SWITZERLAND

THE BEST LUXURY Health & Wellness Retreat – Australia –

WINNER

THE BEST Boutique Property, Villa or Lodge – Australia –

LT TEAM PICK

SOUTHERN OCEAN LODGE

FINALISTS

GWINGANNA LIFESTYLE RETREAT, QLD

HEPBURN BATHHOUSE & SPA, VIC

BYRON AT BYRON RESORT & SPA, NSW

GOLDEN DOOR ELYSIA HEALTH RETREAT & SPA, NSW

THE BEST LUXURY Family Resort – Australia –WINNER

FINALISTS

ALAMANDA PALM COVE, QLD

HAMILTON ISLAND, QLD | CABLE BEACH CLUB, WA

SEA WORLD RESORT, QLD

THE BEST

Boutique Property, Villa or Lodge – Australia –

WINNER

FINALISTS

LAKEHOUSE DAYLESFORD, VIC SOUTHERN OCEAN LODGE, SA

JONAH’S WHALE BEACH, NSW

PRETTY BEACH HOUSE, NSW

SAFFIRE FREYCINET, TAS

THE BEST LUXURY

Family Resort

– Overseas –WINNER

FINALISTS

ATLANTIS THE PALM, DUBAI

FOUR SEASONS MAUI AT WAILEA, HAWAII

AULANI RESORT, HAWAII VOMO ISLAND FIJI

Food & Wine Property –

Australia –

FINALISTS

BALGOWNIE ESTATE VINEYARD RESORT & SPA, VIC CAPE LODGE, WA CHATEAU YERING HOTEL, VIC JACKALOPE, VIC LINDENDERRY RED HILL, VIC

THE BEST LUXURY River Cruise – in the World –

THE BEST LUXURY Expedition Cruise – in the World –

THE BEST LUXURY

Ocean

Cruise – in the World –

FINALISTS

AZAMARA

CRYSTAL CRUISES

CUNARD

HOLLAND AMERICA

PRINCESS CRUISES

REGENT SEVEN SEAS

OCEANIA

PONANT

THE BEST First Class Airline

– in the World –WINNER

FINALISTS

SINGAPORE AIRLINES

AIR NEW ZEALAND

EMIRATES

ETIHAD AIRWAYS

QATAR AIRWAYS

THE LARGEST CAVE IN THE WORLD WAS DISCOVERED IN VIETNAM?

THE

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PICKING UP

AS GLOBAL TOURISM BOOMS AT AN UNPRECEDENTED RATE, THE ENVIRONMENT IS STRAINING UNDER THE PRESSURE LEAVING MANY OF US WONDERING, ARE WE LOVING OUR PLANET TO DEATH?

Words by MADELIN TOMELTY

Idip my snorkel-topped head into the crystal-clear water and brace myself for the urry of colour about to cross my goggled vision. I tread the water and look every which way, blow some water out of my snorkel, ungracefully attempt to defog my goggles and try again, but it’s no good. It’s not the snorkel. e reef below and all around me is as beige and bland as a stale loaf of bread.

I’m at the Dhaalu Atoll in the Maldives, and the coral here has lost most of its colour. It is not dead, but it is starving as rising water temperatures force the coral to expel the algae – its food source –that usually lives in its tissues. Since an extreme El Nino event hit the Pacific Ocean in 2015, water temperatures have risen so much –up to 34 degrees in some areas – that 60 per cent of all assessed coral colonies and up to 90 per cent in some areas of the Maldives, have been bleached. Closer to home at our beloved Great Barrier Reef, that figure hit a devastating 93 per cent in 2016 while the XL Catlin Seaview Survey has found that in the past 30 years alone we’ve lost as much as 40 per cent of the world’s total corals.

Three ‘global coral bleaching events’ have occurred since 1998, and the most recent is considered to be the longest and possibly most damaging on record. As global warming worsens, extreme El Ninos –which weren’t even seen before 1982 – and coral bleaching events are occurring more frequently, and low-lying countries such as the Maldives are suffering the most.

After less than 10 minutes of bobbing in the sea, I leave my more persistent snorkelling companions and swim back to the boat. I’ve seen enough. As I look back at the out-of-this-world-aqua ocean, I can’t help but be overcome by a sadness totally at odds with the sunny perfection of my surroundings. I also feel guilt. As an avid traveller, I know I contribute to this devastating global problem.

Collateral Damage

Sustainable tourism and zero-waste travel are big conversation topics at the moment. Tourism, and in recent years the problem of over-tourism, is inextricably tied up in the environment, and while it may not be the root cause of our planet’s woes, it certainly doesn’t help.

Take the idyllic Maldivian coral reefs, screaming out for respite from the water that is cooking it, while hordes of tourists in holiday mode exacerbate the problem simply by doing the very thing they travelled to the Maldives to do – swim in the ocean. Oxybenzone, an ingredient found in most sunscreens, is highly toxic to coral and marine ecosystems, yet 14,000 tonnes of sunscreen are dripping off of our bodies and into the ocean annually. It’s not hard to see the irony; my very presence at Dhaalu Atoll is partly to blame for my disappointing snorkelling experience.

And then there’s the issues associated with getting to our destinations in the rst place. Fossil fuel-heavy airplanes not only contribute to climate change but also create unspeakable amounts of waste. >>

93 %

of the excess heat from greenhouse gas emissions has been absorbed by the ocean since the 1970s SOURCE:

14,0 00 tonnes

THE AMOUNT OF SUNSCREEN FROM OUR BODIES THAT ENTERS THE OCEAN ANNUALLY

SOURCE: NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC

In 2017, the gure was 5.7 million tonnes, according to the International Air Transport Association, which also predicts that gure could double by 2027.

As journalist Tim McDonnell so bluntly put it in American magazine Mother Jones : “On a plane? Enjoy the view of the planet you’re killing!”

It’s harsh, but he has a point, and it makes me view my Gold Frequent Flyer status in a whole new light.

ankfully, there is movement in the right direction. In February, Qantas announced the most ambitious waste-reduction target of any major airline, aiming to become the world’s rst airline to reuse, recycle and compost at least three-quarters of its general waste by the end of 2021. is mission will e ectively eliminate single-use plastics, and remove more than 100 million items per year from ights and lounges by the end of 2020. Separate targets exist for fuel, water and electricity consumption.

“Airlines burn a lot of fuel, which has an impact on the environment, so we have a responsibility to play our part,” explains Andrew Parker, the Qantas Group Executive, Government, Industry, International & Environment. “As the national carrier, we also want to ensure that national treasures are here for generations of Australians and international visitors to enjoy.”

“ e natural environment is such an important part of life in this country, and we would be doing the spirit of Australia a disservice by not acting stronger and sooner.”

Other airlines have been slower on the uptake. Many are jumping on the no single-use plastic train, but is that really enough in 2019? Perhaps not when you consider Airbus’s prediction that the number of passenger aircraft in our skies will double in the next 20 years.

Our Most Vulnerable

As tourism booms, the world’s more fragile regions are buckling under the pressure. How much pressure, exactly? Something to the tune of 1.8 billion international tourist arrivals will be clocked by the end of 2030, and the world’s most vulnerable countries will accept their share of that enormous tally. As World Tourism Association for Culture and Heritage advisory board member Carolyn Childs told Luxperience earlier this year, “We are seeing many destinations ‘loved to death’.”

“With literally hundreds of millions of Millennials travelling over the next 10 years, just imagine the downward pressure that’s going to be felt by some of the world’s more fragile regions.”

is rings true for plenty of destinations. e Philippine island of Boracay was forcibly closed last year for a six-month rehabilitation after President Rodrigo Duterte publicly labelled it a “cesspool”, following a dramatic jump in tourist arrivals from 260,000 in 2000 to more than two million in 2017. Similarly, after years of pillaging by sel e-taking tourists, Maya Bay, on ailand’s Phi Phi Leh island, was inde nitely closed by the ailand government in an e ort to salvage what little of the pristine environment was left.

The number of overseas visits made by Chinese residents in 2017

But carefree – or careless – travellers are only partly to blame. “It’s [the industry] that [must] change, not the traveller,” says Childs. “Travellers buy what we sell. ey consume what we package. And they visit where and what we recommend.” >> 145 M 400 M

The estimated figure by 2030

Jewel Changi Airport Singapore

Boracay Island

SOURCE: COTRI

“Airlines burn a lot of fuel, which has an impact on the environment, so we have a responsibility to play our part...As the national carrier, we also want to ensure that national treasures are here for generations of Australians and international visitors to enjoy.”

“When Eva and I opened our first resort in 1995, we held a belief that a company must have a clear purpose beyond making money. It must serve and contribute to the society in which it operates and it should not impact negatively on the environment.”

20 YEARS AGO

90 % $ 52 MILLION

SONU SHIVDASANI / CO-FOUNDER & CEO OF SONEVA

Case in point: As the Maldives shrinks due to rising sea levels, dozens of luxury resorts continue to open on its islands each year in response to rocketing demand. e country now hosts more tourists per annum than the nation’s entire population. at’s not the traveller in action, that’s hotel brands. at’s the Maldivian government. at’s business.

“When pro t is the only motive then there’s little if any regard for the impact travellers will have on destinations as long as the money keeps rolling in. As an industry, we can no longer turn a blind eye to the destructive path we’re on and the impact we are having on these fragile communities,” Childs says.

Sonu Shivdasani, co-founder and CEO of Soneva, which owns hotels in the Maldives and ailand, reiterates Childs’ sentiment. “Companies must become the solution, not the problem,” he says. “ e hotel industry bene ts the richest 20-30 per cent of the planet and because of our resource-hungry ways, [it is] at the expense of the poorest 70-80 per cent. In summary, we as an industry consume more than our fair share of resources.”

Returning to Nature

Shivdasani and his wife, Eva, were among the few hoteliers to have foresight about the environmental impact of tourism, and Soneva has long been considered a world-leader in responsible tourism.

“When Eva and I opened our rst resort in 1995, we held a belief that a company must have a clear purpose beyond making money. It must serve and contribute to the society in which it operates and it should not impact negatively on the environment.”

Bucking the trend among tunnel-visioned, pro teering hotel brands, Soneva is always striving towards creating a net positive impact and has a target of zero waste. It recycles 90 per cent of its resorts’ solid waste, and glass, food waste, jungle trimmings and polystyrene are all processed on site. It was also the rst resort company in the Maldives and among the rst in the world to ban plastic straws more than 20 years ago –something that many resorts are only now implementing – and in 2008, it banned imported water, which has saved about 1.5 million plastic bottles from ending up in our oceans.

e same year the company introduced a mandatory carbon levy, and as a result is 100 per cent carbon neutral, making up for emissions caused by guest air travel; sea, air and road freight; and sta travel. e list of Soneva’s far-reaching e orts continues from its deep involvement in the local communities in which it operates to providing guests with ecofriendly sunscreen.

As part of its sustainability mission, Soneva reframes and rede nes luxury travel for its guests. Shivdasani calls this “intelligent luxury”.

“Intelligent Luxury di ers from traditional luxury in that it values things that are rare and strike a chord in our hearts, rather than just being expensive. For instance, a homegrown, organic salad is more luxurious and rare to the urban elite than foie gras or caviar,” he explains. >>

Soneva’s Eco-Centro Waste-to-Wealth centre is practical and educational

For People and Place

A more responsible style of luxury travel that focuses on simplicity and maximising a destination’s natural environment and people has emerged, with the emphasis on stripping back to quietness, solitude and nature. And as these things become scarcer and less attainable, like the Birkin bags of yesterday they become more exclusive and, in turn, more desirable.

Tourism New Zealand’s CEO Stephen England-Hall believes the best travel experiences are derived from local immersion, not the square meterage of your suite.

“You could go and stay in a luxury lodge somewhere and pay $15,000 if not $30,000 a night and you can order your helicopter and it will take you mountain biking or heli-skiing,” he says. “But you could also get a local guide to take you into the forest somewhere that no one else has been for 50 years, or 100 years, or ever… and the value of that experience would be, probably, 10 times greater.”

For our friends over the ditch, sustainability in tourism is about making the world a better place than it was before, and that means striving towards being net positive. “It’s not sustainability, it’s enrichment,” England-Hall says. “We need to be focusing on how we generate more than we consume… because otherwise we just leave things as they are and I’m not sure, in the current state of our environment, if that’s enough.”

How have destinations gotten to this point? England-Halls calls it “the drug of growth” and says progression without design – the domino e ect of more marketing, more operators and more tourists – is hugely problematic. “It gets to the point where it’s no longer enriching and no longer sustainable,” he says.

is is something New Zealanders are wary of, with growing concern about the social and environmental impact of tourism. Much of this “popularity pain” is the result of visitors’ cultural di erences around respecting nature and wildlife.

“We had nothing that told or set expectations of our visitors of how they should behave in our environment culturally… and so we had to think about, whose fault is that, really… and we thought, ‘maybe it’s ours’,” England-Hall says.

e New Zealand government’s solution was to introduce a $35 per tourist levy. Set to start mid-year, the levy is estimated to raise $80 million a year, with funds to be put towards infrastructure and conservation projects designed to make sure the tourism industry is sustainable, productive and inclusive.

Tourism New Zealand’s solution was a little softer – to implement a simple set of principles for how to behave “on island”, an initiative known as ‘Tiaki’. From the Maori word meaning “to care for people and place”, tourists who make the ‘Tiaki Promise’ when they visit New Zealand are making a commitment to care for and preserve the country’s natural and urban environments for current and future generations.

“It’s not a marketing word,” says England-Hall. “It’s part of who we are.” Tiaki echoes another successful cultural framework of behaviour – the Nordic countries’ ancient Right to Roam, or ‘Allemannsretten’. Translated to “everyman’s right”, this principal, inscribed by law, means you are free to enjoy these ord-, mountain- and glacier-dotted lands, as long as you tread lightly.

Scandinavia is particularly ahead of the curve when it comes to responsible tourism, and many of Norway’s hotels are already controlling their energy and water consumption, waste generation and recycling through automatic light switches, low- ush toilets, wash basins with sensors and energy-e cient whitegoods.

In Sweden, Finnish renewable fuel company Neste has holiday eco-huts on the islands of Vallisaari and Lido, and is currently building the fossilfuel-free Zero Island.

Taking green thinking a giant step further, Oslo-based architecture rm Snøhetta recently announced it had designed the world’s rst energy-positive hotel, named Svart and set to open in 2021 just above the fragile Arctic Circle as a sustainable tourist destination. >>

of wayfarers want to travel sustainably with nearly four in 10 (39%) confirming they often or always manage to do so, with Millennials more environmentally conscious than previous generations.

Nolla Cabin, Vallisaari Island, Finland

Svart, the world’s first powerhouse hotel, opening 2021

$ 80 M IS HOW MUCH NEW ZEALAND’S $35 PER TOURIST LEVY IS EXPECTED TO RAISE

NZ HERALD

From the Maori word meaning “to care for people and place”, tourists who make the ‘Tiaki Promise’ when they visit New Zealand are making a commitment to care for and preserve the country’s natural and urban environments for current and future generations.

SOURCE:

“Everyone has a responsibility to reduce their footprint and include sustainable practices [and] we are showing the hospitality industry that it can be done in cities and urban environments.”

ARASH AZARBARZIN / PRESIDENT OF SH HOTELS

& RESORTS

The lobby, 1 Hotel Central Park

Sex Sells

Green tourism is not just ethical. It is also innovative, interesting and increasingly cool, so it only makes sense that Monaco, playground of the rich and famous, is making eco-tourism glamorous.

‘Green is the new glam’ is the name of the country’s latest tourism campaign, but don’t be fooled by its light-hearted name – sustainability is a serious matter in Monaco and the country’s number-one priority as it works towards its goal to be carbon neutral by 2050. “ e actions being taken in Monaco are much more than a branding exercise,” says Estelle Antognelli, Responsible Tourism Manager, Monaco Government Tourist and Convention Authority.

Monaco’s eco-friendly focus is largely spurred on by Prince Albert II. Passionately committed to the environment, his Prince Albert II of Monaco Foundation works on projects and initiatives dedicated to the conservation of endangered species, forests, and marine protected areas, and the development of renewable energies.

Other sustainable initiatives are far more visible in the principality. Twenty per cent of Monaco is made up of parks and gardens, and it is home to one of the largest urban organic farms in the world – the 1500-square-metre ‘Terre de Monaco’. And while the Formula 1 isn’t going anywhere, Monaco nonetheless has more than 1750 electric vehicles and 574 free charging points.

Antognelli says destinations have no choice but to go sustainable, as green travel increasingly turns from being niche to necessary, especially among Millennials, now the largest – and most eco-aware – demographic. “More and more, people are looking for responsible destinations, so making tourism sustainable isn’t a choice, it’s a necessity. ere is no plan B.”

Big Smoke, Less Smoke

is sense of urgency goes for the big smoke, too. Our sprawling metropolises must also be a part of the conversation.

All of the big hotel chains – Marriott, Hilton, Hyatt, Accor and InterContinental – have realised the necessity of introducing greener practises into their operations with guest-facing changes such as cutting back on daily laundering and single-use plastic. Plenty have environmental sustainability strategies, such as Accor’s Planet 21 program, and Hilton has committed to cutting its environmental footprint in half by 2030. But no one is doing urban sustainability quite like 1 Hotels, which is quietly going about creating inner-city oases in America and, in 2022, Melbourne.

of Monaco is made up of parks and gardens, and it is home to the 1500m 2 urban organic farm ‘Terre de Monaco’.

SOURCE: MONACO GOVERNMENT TOURIST & CONVENTION AUTHORITY

Arash Azarbarzin, President of SH Hotels and Resorts, which operates 1 Hotels, says: “Everyone has a responsibility to reduce their footprint and include sustainable practices [and] we are showing the hospitality industry that it can be done in cities and urban environments.”

Beginning with a goal to make its guests feel more connected to nature, 1 Hotels brings nature indoors through highly visible plants and reclaimed wood so guests can always see and feel the environment, despite their urban locale. “In turn, guests become more likely to protect and safeguard the environment and are more open to conversations about future preservation,” Azarbarzin says.

1 Hotel Brooklyn Bridge in New York monitors its water and energy use in real-time and has rigorous recycling and composting targets to reduce waste and overall carbon impact. Rooms have ve-minute shower timers to gently encourage guests to be mindful of their water use, Tesla electric vehicles are available for complimentary rides within a certain radius, and guests can ll up reusable containers with the building’s ltered water.

But perhaps most impressive, at least visually, is the water reclamation system. It collects rainwater, which is then used to irrigate the adjacent Brooklyn Bridge Park, and the pipe runs right through the lobby, literally showing guests sustainability in action. “It’s the idea of pulling back the curtain to show how our sustainability work and practices create a new place that becomes a platform for change,” Azarbarzin says.

Create a new place. at has a powerful ring to it. While we may not be able to turn back the clock on much of the damage tourism has caused our delicate planet, we can play our part in cleaning up the industry. We can demand better, of hotels, resorts and governments. We can make the phrase, “Take only memories and leave only footprints” a rule to travel by, not a cliché. And we can create a ‘new place’ – one where tourism is responsible, respectful, and celebrates a planet that is, most certainly, still worth exploring.

Exterior, 1 Hotel Central Park

THE MIND AVOIDS UNPLEASANT FEELINGS, BUT BURYING them doesn’t make them go away. Instead they smoulder, making us anxious, depressed, and fearful, and it is exhausting to live this way. For growth and happiness, we need to bring attention to these emotions, feel them, and then let them go.

No, I am not a quali ed psychologist. Nor am I a spiritual healer. But this, in a nutshell, is what I took away from my six-day retreat at Kamalaya Koh Samui.

Okay, there was a lot more to it, and the experience was confronting at times, but Kamalaya’s Finding Emotional Balance and Freedom retreat gave me the most profound emotional shift I have ever experienced, and now I’m a bona fide convert.

Kamalaya is many things to many people. Some arrive at the wellness resort looking to get fit, some to improve their yoga practice, others wish to upgrade their diet, detox their body, or simply indulge in the spectacular spa treatments. And I know the feeling. This isn’t my first visit to Kamalaya. I’ve experienced the variety on offer and loved every minute, but this visit was different. Instead of focusing on my physical health, I was taking a deep look at my emotional health. And I soon discovered, that’s not always easy.

Kamalaya has won multiple awards and can be found at the top of numerous ‘best of the best’ lists. The food is outstanding, with an emphasis on healthy versions of Thai favourites, organic greens and raw dishes, but also plenty of seafood, poultry and lamb options. Meals are free from dairy, additives, refined sugar, and salt. If you get tired of pad Thai and curries, there are grilled specialties like kingfish and salmon, or you might like to try some ostrich loin. The menu is so comprehensive, I think you would need to stay at least a month to get through everything – and some people do. e resort’s 76 rooms and villas are scattered on a hillside, hidden in jungle pockets of frangipani, bougainvillea and banana trees. Downhill there are a couple of beach villas just steps away from the sea, where you can kayak, paddleboard, or just relax with a book. anks to architect Robert Powell, the property

seamlessly incorporates owing streams, giant boulders, and even trees that sprout out from roof tops.

is is the perfect place for re ection, and at its heart is Monk’s Cave. Literally a former monk’s cave, this centuries-old site originally con rmed to owners John and Karina Stewart that this was the property they had been searching for. John had been a monk in the Himalayas for more than 15 years and Karina, a master of traditional Chinese medicine. rough Kamalaya, they have combined their skills and, as John says, “have made contemporary what we have learned from ancient traditions.” e couple has been sharing that knowledge since 2005.

Finding Emotional Balance and Freedom is a six-day program in an intimate group setting led by three of Kamalaya’s life enhancement mentors. Smitha, Sujay and Rajesh have each spent at least a decade living a monastic lifestyle in India. ey are incredibly easy to talk to and have a strong knowledge of Asian philosophy, with a focus on Buddhist teachings. >>

“The resort’s 76 rooms and villas are scattered on a hillside, hidden in jungle pockets of frangipani, bougainvillea and banana trees...thanks to architect Robert Powell, the property seamlessly incorporates flowing streams, giant boulders, and even trees that sprout out from roof tops.”

ey are nurturing and have an uncanny ability to help you see things from a di erent perspective. Spending an hour with them is like having an awakening. You leave the conversation thinking, “Why haven’t I ever seen it that way before?”

Our group of seven was made up of men and women of di erent ages and backgrounds, but we had a common goal. We were all ready to let go of what was holding us back. Whether it was a relationship, the loss of a loved one, or even a traumatic event we had kept buried for too long, we were looking for the freedom and relief of moving on.

rough di erent techniques, we learned how to shed old thought patterns, let go of grudges, and use new coping mechanisms in order to be more exible in response to life’s challenges.

It’s not uncommon to feel reluctant about sharing personal stories or thoughts with complete strangers. In fact, that’s exactly how I felt before I arrived on Kamalaya’s doorstep. But I was quickly comforted. You can share as much or as little as you like, but I soon felt at ease talking in front of my companions as there was never any judgement. e group sessions provide

a unique opportunity to get greater insight and gain another perspective. We were all in the same boat, and that enabled us to grow close across the week.

While most of the time was spent in a group setting – in a sprawling villa with a pool and outdoor yoga/meditation deck, no less – there were also two private sessions with our mentors, along with daily massages and treatments speci cally chosen to support us. My favourite treatment was Chi Nei Tsang, an ancient Taoist abdominal massage that promotes digestion. A specially trained practitioner spends an hour gently massaging your abdomen in a clockwise direction, taking the time getting into each area. Best performed on an empty stomach, the massage was completely relaxing and did help things…well, errr, ‘move along’.

As with all Kamalaya programs, your stay starts with a personalised health analysis and consultation with the naturopath. Days are busy, with an hour each morning learning a new meditation or breathing technique, followed by breakfast. A twohour group session follows and there is another group session in the afternoon. Meals and spa treatments are scattered in between.

While there wasn’t a lot of free time, I was still able to do a few yoga classes and enjoy the steam cavern and cold plunge every day. Evening dinners at the communal table are full of laughter and interesting conversation as new friendships develop while discussing sore muscles and must-try treatments.

Guests come from all over the globe and about 40 per cent are repeat visitors. Despite the healthy atmosphere, you won’t be admonished for enjoying a glass of wine or a cold beer. Even co ee and desserts are allowed.

By the end of the week, we all agreed our transformations were much bigger than we had expected. Life is always changing, and it will be challenging at times, but if we can be exible in the way we respond, it will be a much easier journey.

The Details

Rates for the six-night Finding Emotional Balance and Freedom retreat start at 137,230 Thai Bhat (about A$6070), inclusive of taxes. kamalaya.com

Step back in time

PRAGUE’S EXQUISITELY PRESERVED ARCHITECTURE UNDERPINS AN INTRIGUING CITY PACKED WITH HISTORY AND CHARM, WRITES GARY ALLEN

HYPERBOLE HAS FOUND A COMFORTABLE HOME IN THE travel industry. Countless beaches have been credited with the world’s whitest sand; ‘hidden treasures’ have often been long found; and the best co ee, as Victorians proudly know, is made in Melbourne (but also Seattle, Rome, Vienna et al).

In Prague, the most beautiful city in Europe (among others, obviously), they’ve taken a di erent tack. An enchanting blend of history and character, Prague is known as the City of 100 Spires, thanks to the many steeples, towers and turrets that pierce the skyline with both strength and grace. Romantic as it is, the gure no longer does the Czech capital justice. ere may well have been 100 spires, or 103 as counted by 19th-century mathematician Bernard Bolzano, once upon a time. But a lot has happened since his tally and today there are said to be at least ve times as many, making it a sight even more spectacular than the moniker would suggest.

Forget hyperbole. Prague has mastered the understatement, and it only adds to my delight.

I am here for just a few days, but my stay isn’t rushed. is isn’t an overwhelming city; it’s perfectly composed for meandering, day or night, with major attractions, such as Charles Bridge, Prague Castle and Old Town Square, an easy stroll apart.

At almost 201 centimetres tall, I am not accustomed to looking up at much, but in Prague it is a di erent story. e city’s centuries-old architecture, covering myriad styles including Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque, is nothing short of spectacular and blindly navigating the cobblestones is a small price to pay to admire the view a little longer.

Despite a turbulent political history, Prague has been beautifully, and miraculously, preserved. In fact, its 866-hectare >>

Prague’s Old Town Square (above) takes centre stage in a city packed with culture, history and beauty.

Quench your thirst

Na zdravi! That’s “cheers” in Czech, and a phrase you might be needing if you’re headed for the capital. Here’s a selection of our favourite Prague bars…

T-Anker

Make a reservation, because you won’t be the only person headed for this rooftop hideaway. And as you soak up the sweeping views of Prague’s trademark red roofs and spires, you’ll understand exactly why. t-anker.cz/en

Pivo

a párek

For authenticity in this beer-loving city, pull up a bar stool at Pivo a párek. Both locations – one in Žižkov, the other in Vinohrady – deliver a celebration of Czech beer culture, pouring some of the country’s best craft brews. pivoaparek.cz

Hemingway Bar

When you’ve got a thirst for something stronger, the exhaustive drinks menu at Hemingway Bar has you covered. Try the Hemingway Absinthe, a limited-edition liquor distilled exclusively for the bar. hemingwaybar.cz

CottoCrudo

Whether or not you’re a hotel guest, Four Seasons’ CottoCrudo bar is an indulgence worth checking out. Dive into the extensive wine list and enjoy the opulent surrounds. fourseasons.com/prague

FUN FACT

Czechs are the world’s biggest beer drinkers, guzzling at a rate of 143.3 litres per person. The Czech Republic has topped the list for 24 consecutive years. By comparison, Australia doesn’t even rank in the top 20, consuming 71.4 litres per capita.

SOURCE: KIRIN BEER UNIVERSITY

centre was UNESCO World Heritage-listed in 1992. In Old Town Square, the Church of Our Lady Before Tyn is a powerful example of Gothic architecture and the nearby astronomical clock, installed in 1410 and the oldest of its kind in the world, is a masterpiece. Crowds can build to uncomfortable sizes around Prague’s more famous attractions, such as these, particularly across summer, but can often be avoided with an early start.

It’s not di cult to ‘catch the worm’ when you’re staying so close to the action. Perched on the Vltava River, the Four Seasons is steps from Charles Bridge while Old Town Square, complete with its enchanting labyrinth of alleyways, is just around the corner. Prague Castle, St Nicholas Church and Parizska Street’s shopping gems are also within walking distance.

The Four Seasons Hotel Prague, on the banks of the Vltava River, is a fine example of classic luxury.

Not surprisingly, the Four Seasons’ building itself is also quite an architectural feat, combining three historic structures –classical, Renaissance and 18th-century Baroque – with a fourth modern one with seeming ease. Inside, rooms vary in style but all feature sumptuous furnishings and excellent views. I dine for lunch at in-house restaurant CottoCrudo, indulging rst in the live bar, brimming with fresh seafood, before ordering from the traditional Italian menu. It is a rst-class dining experience, but not as memorable as another meal I enjoy courtesy of the hotel. A picnic basket full of moreish goodies, including a bottle of prosecco, is pre-packed by hotel sta and joins me on board a Four Seasons private boat ride. Floating gently under bridges, including the star of the show, Charles, this charming journey o ers a di erent perspective and I am lulled by Prague’s beauty once again. Stefan, our captain and guide, shares tales of Prague, past and present, and his selection of classical Czech music tops o an idyllic afternoon.

e relaxation continues in the hotel spa where a full-body massage is just the tonic. I am ready for another wander, and I am in the perfect place.

The Details

The Four Seasons is one of the most luxurious and best-located hotels in Prague. Rates for a one-bedroom River Suite start from €1690 (about A$2700) per night. For more information, visit fourseasons.com/prague

ULTRA-LUXURY ALASKA ADVENTURES

VANCOUVER

GLACIERS & ALASKA INSIDE

7 night cruise | Vancouver to Juneau

Seabourn Sojourn departs 12 June 2020

11 night holiday includes:

•Airfare to Vancouver, returning from Juneau

•2 nights at the Fairmont Vancouver incl. breakfast

•7 night ultra-luxury cruise incl. all main meals, beverages+ and entertainment whilst on board

•2 nights at the Four Points by Sheraton Juneau incl. breakfast

•Transfers between airport, hotel & port in Vancouver

Oceanview Suite from $9,795pp*

ALASKA FJORD SOJOURN

INCL. ROCKY MOUNTAINEER

10 night cruise | Vancouver to Seward

Seabourn Sojourn departs 28 August 2020

16 night holiday includes:

•Airfare to Calgary, returning from Anchorage

Kamloops

VANCOUVER

Banff

CALGARY

•5 night Rocky Mountaineer First Passage to the West Calgary to Vancouver

- Incl. accommodation and 2 days onboard Rocky Mountaineer in GoldLeaf Service

- Rail station transfers in Vancouver, Kamloops and Banff

- Luggage handing, National Park Pass & more

- FREE PERK: Additional 1 night hotel stay^

•10 night ultra-luxury cruise incl. all main meals, beverages+ and entertainment whilst on board

•1 night stay at the Hotel Captain Cook, Anchorage incl. breakfast

•Transfers between airport, hotel & port

Oceanview Suite from $17,170pp*

THE SEABOURN DIFFERENCE

•Finest resort at sea

•Intimate ships with a private club atmosphere

•Intuitive, personalized service

•Curated voyages to all seven continents

•All ocean-front suites

•Complimentary spirits & fine wines

• Tipping is neither required, nor expected

•World-class dining

• All dining venues are complimentary, dine where, when and with whom you wish

*Prices are per person in AUD, based in the lead-in twin-share suite accommodation in the specified category, inclusive of Economy Class airfare ex Australia (Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, Adelaide or Perth) and air taxes, port charges, government fees, hotel taxes and gratuities, correct as at 1 May 2019. Offer is valid until 31 August 2019, unless sold out prior, is valid for new bookings only, is capacity controlled, subject to availability/change and can be withdrawn at any time without notice. +Open bar throughout the ship and fine wines poured at lunch and dinner. Beverages may exclude some top-shelf brands. ^Perks offer: One free hotel night at the beginning or end of the Rocky Mountaineer package. To be read in conjunction with the Terms and Conditions from Seabourn which passengers will be bound by. Agents may charge service fees and/or fees for card payments which vary. Cancellation penalties and conditions apply.

Pacific Ocean

Gulf of Alaska

Inian Islands Hubbard Glacier Ketchikan

Sitka

Icy Strait Point

Pacific Ocean

Gulf of Alaska

Misty Fjords

Tracy Arm/ Endicott Arm

Inian Islands

College Fjord Harriman Fjord Wrangell

Icy Strait Point

Juneau

Haines Rudyerd Bay

SEWARD

A Grand Mystery

NEW YORK CITY IS ONE OF THE MOST POPULAR TOURIST DESTINATIONS IN THE WORLD, YET BARRY STONE DISCOVERS A LITTLE-KNOWN LOCATION SITTING SMACK-BANG UNDERNEATH ONE OF MANHATTAN’S MOST FAMOUS LANDMARKS

IN 1942 TWO GERMAN SUBMARINES surfaced near Amagansett Beach off the southern shoreline of New York’s Long Island after sailing undetected across the North Atlantic. On board were four saboteurs who had been sent on an audacious mission. On the personal orders of Adolf Hitler they were to empty buckets of sand into a series of rotary electrical converters housed in a cavernous 2000-square-metre space code-named M42, a man-made cavern blasted out of Manhattan bedrock 10 storeys beneath New York City’s Grand Central Terminal (GCT). The converters provided traction current to much of the region’s rail network, yet were notoriously fragile. If sand entered their exposed rotary blades they would catastrophically seize, halting all train movements into and out of the terminal and rendering 80 per cent of the northeastern rail network powerless, stopping trains along 3200 kilometres of track that were busy hauling weapons and troops to ports along the Eastern Seaboard. Fortunately the spies were seen coming ashore that night by a coastguardsman at the Amagansett Coast Guard Station. The FBI was alerted, and the men arrested. And you thought this was going to be a train story . . .

You won’t find M42, the precise location of which is still officially classified, on any terminal maps or blueprints. Accessed via an unmarked steel door somewhere in GCT, I’ve been asked not to reveal its precise location. Tours of this underground labyrinth used to take place, albeit infrequently, as a bolt-on to various unrelated press and official VIP visits, but have now been cancelled for security reasons. I am most certainly one of the lucky few.

Geology ‘tragic’ that I am, it all began with an unexpected thrill. Descending the initial flight of stairs you’ll pass a large protrusion of 450-million-year-old Manhattan schist, its surface pitted with white mica and so close you can touch it. The most common of the city’s five

bedrock layers, this is the one that makes the weighty cityscape of Midtown possible. New York simply wouldn’t be New York without it. There are scant places in Manhattan where it breaks the surface, notably in Central Park, and in J Hood Wright Park and Bennett Park further north in Washington Heights. But to see it down here, buried in the earth, was a very big deal; a tantalising precursor to what was just around the corner. >>

“You won’t find M42, the precise location of which is still officially classified, on any terminal maps or blueprints. Accessed via an unmarked steel door somewhere in GCT, I’ve been asked not to reveal its precise location.”

M42 is like…well, it’s like nothing you’ve ever seen. It’s the Batcave on steroids. Imagine, if you can, a schist- lled subterranean world of ageing electrical generators, control panels, voltage meters, circuit breakers, switchboards – and the world’s rst nascent computer, built in 1913 by Westinghouse to keep track of trains entering and leaving the terminal. ere’s even a red button (that you’re really not supposed to know about), which, if pushed, still has the potential to cut the electrical supply to much of the city’s rail network. And here’s the kicker. Above you, 750,000 people each day are making their way over the concourses, platforms and marble stairways of this, the world’s sixth mostfrequented building, almost all of them with no inkling of the secret world below.

From M42 the tour surfaces brie y on street level with a short walk along Park Avenue and a left down Lexington to an unmarked steel door that thousands of pedestrians walk right by every day. is is the entrance to Track 61, a rail line and accompanying siding built beneath the Waldorf Astoria Hotel during the Great Depression to facilitate access to the hotel for dignitaries, politicians, and special guests. Its most famous guest was the nation’s 32nd president, Franklin Delano Roosevelt. A icted with polio in 1921, his illness was largely kept from the American people, and Track 61 proved convenient in keeping him out of the public’s gaze when he visited the city. Which brings us to the next gob-smacking sight: his carriage.

“In the 1930s a railway carriage was converted to house Roosevelt’s bulletproof Pierce Arrow limousine, which could be driven off the train directly into a freight elevator and from there up into the hotel’s garage. And the carriage is still here.”

In the 1930s a railway carriage was converted to house Roosevelt’s bulletproof Pierce Arrow limousine, which could be driven o the train directly into a freight elevator and from there, up into the hotel’s garage. And the carriage is still here. A short walk along Track 61 takes you to the armour-clad relic, now a rusting, decaying hulk, though still impressive with its rooftop slits that doubled as gun ports and its exterior of 2.5 centimetre-thick riveted steel plates. Too bulky and costly to strip down or remove, it’s one of the city’s most extraordinary historic sights. But the thrills don’t end here, either. It was time to return to our starting point. Only this time, to go ‘up’.

Behind the massive arched windows on the east and west walls that tower above the terminal’s Main Concourse is a series of maintenance walkways, and the tour concludes with a walk along the east-side, fth- oor catwalk. I poked my head out through a hinged 100-year-old window at the very top of the arch, with nothing between myself and the concourse oor 38 metres below. Commuters looked like ants as I gazed down onto New York’s greatest open space. Mesmerised. Awestruck. Teetering on my perch.

Forget the city’s glut of observation decks and rooftop bars. is is the New York view you’ve always pined for, the one you never knew you wanted.

is terminal, this gorgeous 19-hectare Beaux-Arts masterpiece that towers above East 42nd Street with its fourth- oor tennis court and its 44 platforms – more than any train station in the world – is the city’s beating heart. e Main Concourse’s famous celestial ceiling is museum-worthy, though ironically also its most monumental blunder with the constellations accidentally painted backwards after French artist Paul Helleu mistakenly reversed the template he used to create it.

And its famous clock above the information booth, the “I’ll meet you under the clock”, clock? Its four convex faces of pure opal give it an estimated value of between US$10 and $20 million if you believe the valuers at Sotheby’s.

And it just sits there, in the open, in plain view. e world’s most public jewel.

Just like the building itself, really. New York’s Grand Central Treasure.

The Details

Although M42 is now o limits, the myriad secrets of New York’s Grand Central Terminal can be uncovered on a behind-the-scenes tour. Try untappedcities.com or behindthescenesnyc.com.

Above: Franklin Roosevelt. Below: The famous Waldorf Astoria. Opposite page: Roosevelt’s railway carriage.

A place where natural wonders and endless adventure abound, The Islands of Tahiti are calling. Come free your soul and discover what it means to be .

© Myles McGuinness

animal instincts

BY AWARD-WINNING PHOTOGRAPHER CHRIS McCLENNAN

Brown bear mum and cub, Lake Clark National Park, Alaska

Cheetahs at play

A lone walrus on receding ice, Spitsbergen

Boxing kangaroos at sunrise, Cape Hillsborough, Australia

A pangolin searching for termites, Namibia

Springboks in the morning light, Namibia

A slinking caracal, Namibia

Baby elephant, Botswana

A young mountain gorilla, Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, Uganda

Mum and her polar bear cubs on sea ice, Spitsbergen

A leopard and her cubs drinking at sunrise, Botswana

Q&AWITHCHRISMcLENNAN

GROWING UP IN RURAL NEW ZEALAND, NOT FAR FROM QUEENSTOWN in the picturesque South Island, Chris McLennan was surrounded by natural beauty. It’s no wonder he followed the path to travel photography. Today, he is a renowned photographer specialising in travel, tourism, wildlife, culture and adventure across the globe.

Q. How did you break in to travel photography?

A. I started my photography career working in the tourism industry in Queenstown. e industry is ‘small’ in terms of people mixing in similar circles. My client base expanded from New Zealand to Fiji, Australia and then on to other Paci c Islands, Asia and from there, the world. I have worked commercially in 58 countries to date.

Q. What an amazing achievement! Do you have a favourite country?

A. I have a real soft spot for Alaska. I love the climate, the alpine environment, the wildlife, and the people really are amazing. But my favourite will always be the South Island of New Zealand – home!

Q. Do you enjoy working at home as well as simply being there?

A. Yes, I certainly love New Zealand rst and foremost. I like to try to maintain a good work/life mix when back home, but I see myself working more in New Zealand in the future. My very favourite place to be and work is the Southern Alps of the South Island. e mountain environment makes me feel alive. Glenorchy is my home and it really is my favourite place on the planet.

Q. Are there any countries you’re yet to visit that are high on your priority list?

A. Although I’ve spent a lot of time in the Arctic, I have yet to make it to Antarctica. I would love to do that sometime soon and capture the opposite polar region. I have also not explored South America so that remains on the list – the variety of wildlife, the alpine areas of Patagonia, and I would love to photograph the cultures of Bolivia.

Q. You photograph people, places, wildlife ... the list goes on. Do you have a favourite?

A. My favourites tend to change. When I was younger I loved extreme sports, but now I favour wildlife and developing-world cultures.

Q. How does it feel when you manage to get up close and personal with such beauty?

A. It feels incredible to experience these moments. It comes from a lot of hard work, but is still a total privilege. Photography and working with the subjects I get to photograph doesn’t grow old.  e amount of time spent in airports and away from home certainly does, though.

Q. Have you had any close encounters, be it with wildlife or just the general pitfalls of travel?

A. I research my subjects and locations very well and always take safety very seriously. In 30 years, I have not had too many close encounters, but the most dangerous experience to date would have to be driving in local tra c in India. Wildlife behaviour is generally pretty predictable; humans, not so much!

To learn more about Chris McLennan and his work, visit cmphoto.co.nz.

FOR THE SAFARI SOUL

KATE SYMONS DISCOVERS A WILD WAY TO RELAX AND REJUVENATE, JUST AS NATURE INTENDED

BY HIS OWN ADMISSION, BERNIE SMITH IS A “HOPELESS” PHOTOGRAPHER. As owner and director of South Africa’s Garonga Safari Camp, he’s had more than two decades to hone his skills, but they continue to elude the British expat. Nevertheless, Smith doesn’t hesitate when a photo opportunity presents itself, which it often does.

“Two days ago I had a cheetah in my yard, then there was a black rhino the other day. I still grab a camera,” he says.

“When I wake up in the morning the rst thing I see is the waterhole and to see a black rhino having a drink from that … what more could I ask for?”

Located in the 22,000-hectare Makalali Conservancy, one hour west of the Kruger National Park’s Phalaborwa gate, Garonga Safari Camp is a luxury destination that pays due respect to its natural surroundings.

Smith has attempted to recreate the magic he experienced on safari as a young boy – “it was pristine, it was beautiful, it was out of this world, and Africa stuck with me ever since” – and he has succeeded. He opened the camp in 1997 and has since remained true to the tagline ‘Safari for the Soul’. >>

Garonga is intimate – there are just six luxury tents, each with private decks overlooking the park and, at times, some of its residents – and there is a hedonistic focus, aided by indulgences such as the open-air massage sala and bush bath.

“It is about relaxing, rejuvenating, taking the city out of your life and seeing what nature has to offer you,” Smith says.

What nature has to offer. No matter the bells and whistles (and there are plenty here), this is key on safari. It is the reason going on safari is the ubiquitous bucket-list item. And it is why I, a safari first-timer, can hardly contain my excitement as my adventure creeps closer.

It is no surprise then to find myself eagerly prepared when, during our transfer service between terminals at Johannesburg’s OR Tambo International Airport, where we will connect with our flight to Garonga, conversation turns to the ‘checklist’ and which animals we’re most hopeful of spotting.

We are travelling with Bench Africa, Australia’s awardwinning African travel specialists, so the groundwork has been done. A thoughtful and beautifully presented itinerary, mailed to travellers ahead of departure, includes a thorough checklist with close to 200 species of animals, amphibians and birds to keep an eye out for. Some, such as the famed cast of Disney’s The Lion King , need no introduction; others – the caracal, the klipspringer, the red hartebeest, for example – were new to me.

I am not the only one who nominates the elephant as priority number one, a result that amuses our amiable Zimbabwean driver, Blessing Bvuma.

“They just walk up to your house, they take your maize,” Bvuma says of these mischievous and, apparently, cornthieving mammals. “They want mongoose so if they smell it [in your house], they’ll lift your roof and take it. They don’t even say thank you.”

“Then the showpiece. Our tracker, Richard Nyathi, spots the weathered grey hide first, as he is expertly trained to do. The rest of us have some trouble (unlikely as that seems) making out the grand beast rustling among the greenery, but as the vehicle inches forward, our bounty comes into full view.”

Less than 24 hours later, I am the one who owes gratitude for dropping in on the elephants. It is only our second safari excursion and already today I have been close enough to black rhino to hear them nuzzling the grass in search of breakfast, heard the wild acoustics of impala horns clashing in anger, and judged a barrel of vervet monkeys in a weeping boer bean tree long enough to know which sun-seeking primate was boss.

Then the showpiece. Our tracker, Richard Nyathi, spots the weathered grey hide first, as he is expertly trained to do. The rest of us have some trouble (unlikely as that seems) making out the grand beast rustling among the greenery, but as the vehicle inches forward, our bounty comes into full view. There must be six…no, 10…wait, no, 15 – as the magnificent herd continues to grow, I stop the unnecessary counting and sit, instead, in silence. >>

I am not the only one set to mute. Our group of six sits quietly, lulled by the herd’s languid movement: some busily drinking, others ambling through crunching vegetation, one adorably linked trunk-to-trunk with its calf. Nyathi and our driver, Jaffeth ‘Jaff’ Malapane, take this opportunity to prepare morning tea and the picturesque vista is soon flavoured with sweet dried fruits, nuts, biscuits and coffee. I wrap my hands around the enamel mug and with heart, soul and now fingers warm, contemplation ensues.

Our lucrative morning quells any lingering con ict surrounding my decision to forego the afternoon safari, not to mention my dreamy super-king bed. Instead, I am braving Garonga’s sleep-out – a night under the stars, and among the wildlife, complete with a four-poster bed on a beautifully crafted viewing deck. Although the only thing separating me from Mufasa and Co. are a few timber stairs, the experience feels completely safe, even with the sound of unattributable gnarls and hoofsteps in the distance. I wake up before the sun and am again silenced, this time by the South African sky as the night’s blanket of stars gently shifts,

making way for the magic of soft pinks, oranges and blues over this famous landscape.

On to the morning’s safari and our group agrees we have one mission – to track the so-far-elusive cheetah. e hunt is slow and considered until Malapane receives a tip-o . Quick as a… well, cheetah, he completes a skillful u-turn and we’re o , winding down the undulating dirt track at invigorating speed – speed that requires white-knuckle grip but not at the expense of my ear-to-ear smile. Malapane takes the vehicle o -track, ducking and weaving erratic boughs, clambering over fallen trunks and navigating impossibly tight spaces – whatever it takes for a glimpse of this erce feline. But there is no glimpse.

We have failed in our mission and I suppose that is a shame, but it certainly doesn’t feel like one. e thrill of the hunt, so they say.

From one high to the next, this time literally as I take up my position in a microlight cockpit – in the passenger seat, of course. We head skyward, but my jaw remains grounded as I realise the sheer scope of this amazing bushveld and the patchwork of wildlife interacting throughout it. From here I spot my rst hippopotamus and rst crocodile. More gira e and zebra, too. Elephants, lions, kudus. And what feels like my millionth impala. Yet the awe hasn’t waned.

And, if Smith’s experience is anything to go by, it never will.

The Details

To mark their 50th anniversary, Bench Africa has launched a ‘13-day Luxury Signature Safari Special’, featuring Cape Town, Franschhoek and a luxury safari in a private game reserve near Kruger National Park. Prices start from $4995 per person, twin share – a saving of $1610 per person. For more information or to book, call 1300 AFRICA (237 422) or visit benchafrica.com.

South African Airways has daily connections with code share partner Virgin Australia from Sydney, Melbourne, Adelaide and Brisbane. Connect to a South African Airways flight from Perth to Cape Town via Johannesburg. Prices starts from A$1792 return (Economy) and A$4702 return (Business), subject to terms and conditions. Visit flysaa.com.au or call 1300 435 972.

f o l l o w i n g

a n c i e n t

UNIQUE AND CAREFULLY PRESERVED TRADITIONS HELP MAKE JAPAN ONE OF THE WORLD’S MOST CAPTIVATING DESTINATIONS. A JOURNEY THROUGH THE COUNTRY’S LESSER-KNOWN PREFECTURES IS A DEEP-DIVE INTO JAPANESE CULTURE AND HISTORY

Words by JENNIFER MAEDER

f o o t s t e p s

As rain pounded the roof above us, we sat barefoot and shivering. My 14-year-old daughter and I had woken before sunrise to join the monks’ morning service and fire ritual. We wrote our wishes on wooden planks, which we then tossed into the ceremonial fire to send to the deities. For a teenager who is impossible to get out of bed at home, this uncharacteristic enthusiasm set the precedent for a week of surprising interest in all things Japanese.

A blanket of incense enveloped the few hardy winter tourists staying at the Ekoin Temple lodging in Koyasan, a temple settlement located less than 100 kilometres south of Osaka. We chose shukubo (temple lodging), high up in this alpine village because this is how pilgrims have honoured the Gods and deities of Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines for thousands of years. We slept on thin futons laid out on impeccably clean straw tatami mats by monks each night and we dined on shojin ryori, Buddhist vegetarian cuisine. What’s good for the pilgrims, is good for us, we thought.

The smell of zuko, a body incense used to purify hands, and the sounds of Buddhist chanting intensified as the sun began to warm this ancient town. Koyasan was founded in the early 800s by Kobo Daishi, one of Japan’s most revered figures, now widely considered the father of Japanese culture. It seemed fitting, then, to begin our pilgrimage here.

Temple lodging is just one way to enjoy Nara and Wakayama, two of Japan’s less-travelled prefectures, sitting to the east and south of Osaka respectively. I am travelling with Isa, and it is authenticity we seek. Those willing to experience guest lodging in traditional ryokans are richly rewarded with an >>

Banryutei, Japan’s largest rock garden, in Koyasan.

Ritual handwashing takes place before visitors enter a Shinto shrine.

Another ritual: Wishes written on wood (left) are tossed in flames.

authentically Japanese experience. Ryokans can be found in most small villages and are typically family run with just a few rooms for lodging. The food is strikingly local and served generously by hosts who welcome you like family.

In Gojo City, we were hosted by a chef and farm owner known to serve upwards of 75 different vegetables on a single menu. Yamato beef melted in our mouths while sips of shiso juice, complete with anti-infective properties, kept our digestion in check. This proved helpful given Isa’s new-found willingness to challenge her Western palate. Once proclaiming to “hate anything from the sea,” night after night she pushed her culinary boundaries, tackling sea urchin, octopus, sea cucumber and eel. The food presentation demanded nothing less. We were frequently served more than a dozen colourful dishes all boasting flavourful and textural punch. We were encouraged to dine wearing the provided yukatas and couldn’t resist the beautifully soft cotton bathrobes. Meal times were never so alluring at home.

Most ryokans boast a traditional onsen, a public hot spring believed to restore youth and good health to weary bodies. The nightly after-dinner soak sends you towards a relaxing slumber, overpowering even the thinnest of futons and hardest of pillows – yes, even those filled with rice. In Tanabe, a coastal city on Wakayama’s Kii Peninsula, we bathe in a naturally occurring geyser while listening to the rush of the river exploding down the adjacent mountainside. Tanabe’s onsen water comes in to play in the kitchen, too. Many dishes are prepared with it, so your body is literally steeped in good health from the inside out.

Winding through the small rural towns of Japan takes you to places hidden from travellers focused on the more popular

destinations of Tokyo and Kyoto. In addition to the many temples and shrines, you can experience the depth of Japanese culture cultivated over thousands of years.

A visit to Hasedera, a beautiful temple built in 686 on the slope of a mountain and sitting in harmony with nature, allowed us the chance to chat with a studying monk of the Shingon sect. Hasedera is home to Japan’s largest wooden statue of Kannon Bosatsu, the Buddhist Goddess of Mercy. e 11-faced seated statue stands almost 10 meters high and, to reach her, you must ascend the Noboriro, or climbing corridor – that’s 399 stairs or, in ancient Japanese units, 108 ken. Buddhism holds that there are 108 de lements of the spirit, each fading as we reach the next ken. >>

“In Tenri, situated in the eastern part of the Nara basin, we met one of the few remaining sword masters. As we learn, this dedicated master takes almost a year to turn a hunk of high-end steel into a bladed weapon, and it is time well spent. They sell for $12,000 or more.”

Our monk acquaintance told us he followed his father’s footsteps to Hasedera andwas nearing the end of two years studying the sutra, ceremonial tea service, chanting and calligraphy. With the arduous 19-hour days coming to a close, he re ected on his joys and challenges, and it was a privilege to listen.

Our travels continued to Kushimoto, Yousa and Sakurai and into the backrooms of miso, soy and saké factories where we observed rituals passed down through generations. We spent a day riding electric bicycles through rice fields and picked varieties of local strawberries in Asuka. In Katsura, one of the largest tuna ports in the country, we ate sashimi so fresh, it put daisies to shame.

If countryside scenery is a little too sleepy for your taste, swords and sumo wrestling await. In Tenri, situated in the eastern part of the Nara basin, we met one of the few remaining sword masters. As we learn, this dedicated master takes almost a year to turn a hunk of high-end steel into a bladed weapon, and it is time well spent. ey sell for $12,000 or more.

In Katsuragi and on to another martial art – the revered tradition of sumo wrestling. Not only can you meet sumo

Clockwise from right: Great Buddha of Todaiji; Yoshinoyama, Nara; sumo wrestlers ready to pounce. Opposite: Samurai training in a traditional dojo.

wrestlers, but they invite you to join them in the ring to perform the traditions of ‘cutting the dust’ and ‘throwing the salt’ before trying your hand at pushing these nearly nude, 150-kilogram martial artists off balance and out of the ring.

In Nara City, the original capital of Japan, the Noborioji Hotel was a blissful way to punctuate our adventure. Located at the edge of Nara Park, the Noborioji is a member of the award-winning ‘Small Luxury Hotels of the World’ group and deservedly so. From the comfort of your room, spotting deer grazing near the temple and pagoda in nearby Nara Park is a soothing pleasure. Spend an afternoon walking through the Naramachi (downtown) shopping area where you might be lucky enough to hear the voices of the mocha-makers singing while they pound out the fresh rice cakes and serve them moments later – warm, sticky and delicious. Before you leave, be sure to pick up a jar of umeboshi , the amazingly tart, highly addictive sour plums that promise to bring youth and beauty.

Then, when each of your senses has been inundated with Japanese goodness, indulge even further with a visit to the Great Buddha of Todaiji Temple. Perhaps the most memorable of all of the Buddha statues in Japan, this powerful sight sits at more than 15 meters high. In his presence, you can’t help but feel the waves of energy he emanates while sitting silently, welcoming people with his right hand and granting wishes with his left. He has done this for hundreds of years and will hopefully continue for hundreds more. But you won’t want to wait to see it for yourself.

The Details

Nara prefecture is in central Japan, south of Kyoto, in the Kansai region. For more information, or to book a luxury bespoke tour, visit nara-sightseeing.com

Wakayama prefecture is located south of Osaka, also in the Kansai Region. For more information, including where to stay and play, visit visitwakayama.jp

Toulouse, France.

IN A PICTURESQUE CORNER OF SOUTHWEST FRANCE, AN INTOXICATING TRAIL LEADS CURIOUS GASTRONOMES TO BURIED TREASURE. WE’RE GOING ON A TRUFFLE HUNT.

Words and photography by MARK PARREN TAYLOR

She never calls me cute,” mutters Paul Pinsard, with a shrug of Gallic indignation. e farmer had just nished relaying the tale of his wife’s fondness for another: “Once I caught her whispering in his ear ‘Tu es mignon!’ she was saying. ‘Mignon!’”

He rubs at the red clay caking his big hands. “She never kisses and cuddles me like that!” ere’s a snort from inside the stock trailer hooked up to his car.

“ at’s Kiki,” Monsieur Pinsard says, “… the object of my wife’s a ection.” He picks up his tru adou – part animal prod, part digging tool –that rests with a leash on the trailer’s roof. Kiki responds with a happy grunt, or ‘groin groin’ as the French call an ‘oink oink’.

It’s 40 winters since Pinsard found tru ing. And it’s a pursuit that he will never tire of. Like another 2000 hunters, or rabassiers, in this part of southwest France, he heads out on free days in the wintertime to gather tru es. Often, he returns home with enough for a glamorous meal, sometimes a little more that he can sell for pin-money.

“Pinsard is a countryman – a paysan in this corner of deepest France where the term ‘peasant’ isn’t belittling. A workaday farmer and elected local councillor, he is a rare breed: a rabassier that hunts with a truffle-hog.”

Tru e-hogs are always called Kiki, and they’re treated like the family pet. Until April or May, that is, when the season is over and the little piggies end up crackling in farmhouse ovens. Not that they are always ‘little’, or have such short-lived careers – sometimes old sows (that are as fruitful in the sty as in the tru e orchard) reach the size of Pinsard’s trailer, and can weigh in at a hefty 220 kilograms. So, it’s no wonder that dogs are the ‘nose’ of choice nowadays – after all, they can hop in the back seat of a Renault 2CV without crushing it.

e farmer’s wife was obliged to kiss and cuddle Kiki – and despite his tongue-in-cheek remonstrations, her husband would have encouraged it. A little bit of TLC goes a long way in the ‘breaking’ of a pig, especially when the collar and leash are rst put to use.

Pinsard is a countryman – a paysan in this corner of deepest France where the term ‘peasant’ isn’t belittling. A workaday farmer and elected local councillor, he is a rare breed: a rabassier that hunts with a tru e-hog.

Using a pig to sni out tru es is a tradition that harks back to Roman times and one that seems impractical in this new age, but there’s an end-of-season bonus. And it is revealed when he lowers the trailer’s tailboard and introduces ‘Kiki the 40th’.

Kiki scents some ‘black gold’ at 10 yards and scurries across to push its snout deep into the oak-leaf-carpeted soil. Pinsard drops dried sweetcorn kernels to distract the pig while he pulls out the ripe, golf-ball-sized tru e. “ e baby tru e grows on the root of the tree in May,” the farmer explains. “After ve weeks of feeding, it cuts the cord and lives its own life.” From October the tru e matures, its colour changes from red to black, and its avour and scent deepen. December’s light frosts intensify them even more.

Lot’s dry, occasionally chill winters are surprising for a department so southerly. Summertime’s hedgerows, meadow orchids and lush grasslands give way to owering dogwood and bronze-leafed oak in December. And the river, after which >>

The Auberge Beauville, Espedaillac.

the department is named, gets a little choppy as it races along its tortuous course; a course punctuated by historic villages (some of France’s most beautiful) and ancient capital Cahors, which sits in a vast, moat-like bow. Beyond, there’s a realm of dense woods and rich farmland, vineyards and inland cli s, and the limestone plateau known as the Causses, a protected ‘natural park’.

e Causses cover two-thirds of Lot and they are a deceptively harsh landscape. Groundwater ushes away quickly, down through the honeycombed limestone bedrock, so that the plateau’s thin coat of topsoil becomes a caked crust in wintertime.

Against this parchment-coloured backdrop, the tru ères are easily spotted: orchards of young oaks – except these are upsidedown orchards because the ‘fruit’ grows underground.

As we drive along country lanes lined with dry-stone walls, Fabienne Boussier – my guide when she’s not an acupuncturist in Cahors – chuckles at a memory. “When I was a girl in the 1960s, everywhere seemed to stink of tru es in January. e Tuesday night train to Paris was piled high with wicker hampers stu ed with them. e smell was nauseating!”

at aroma! Like the knotty roots of an oak tree, the tru e’s aroma is a tangle of musky, nutty, earthy, with hints of cocoa, cognac and raspberry. It’s the kind of smell that wraps itself around you. It may be delicate, ephemeral, may last for just a few days, but when it is freshly unearthed it is so extraordinarily pervasive.

Clockwise from left: Broad bean soup with truffle and foie gras, from La Clos Cache; Monique Valette in the Auberge Lou Bourdie kitchen; Valette’s famous omelette topped with sliced truffle.

e tru e is the ‘spore-maker’ of an underground fungus – and for gastronomes the black variety must be tuber melanosporum, what Italians call ‘precious black.’ e scent is simply a device to enable the fungus to propagate – like the ‘Eat Me’ cake in Alice’s Wonderland, it entices animals to gobble the tru e up, so that the spores can be dispersed further a eld.

On the road to little Bach, 21 kilometres southeast of Cahors, Boussier points to telltale bare patches around some oaks. “ ey’re like witches’ circles where the tru es suck the energy out of the soil,” she says. ese patches are called brûlée (burnt) and are caused by the tru e emitting herbicidal compounds.

Monique Valette knows all about the power of the tru e. She stores hers among farm-fresh eggs in the pantry so the aroma enriches the albumen. Her Auberge Lou Bourdié is the restaurant to lunch at on a Tuesday.

I catch her in the heat of service tending to half-a-dozen omelette pans like a circus plate-spinner. In between deft stirs and quick ips, she whisks more eggs and drops a nger-load of tru e brisure (broken pieces of tru e) into the mix. e nished omelettes are then topped with slices of tru e brossée (the ne, brushed variety) that look like a row of buttons waiting to be undone to reveal the oozing insides. It’s what the French call baveuse, or ‘slobbery’, which is how your mouth should be if it’s cooked right. >>

“That aroma! Like the knotty roots of an oak tree, the truffle’s aroma is a tangle of musky, nutty, earthy, with hints of cocoa, cognac and raspberry. It’s the kind of smell that wraps itself around you.”

Unlike the majority of Tuesday customers, Valette doesn’t go to Lalbenque tru e market, even though it’s less than 10 kilometres down the road. Instead she buys her stash from villagers who turn up on her doorstep with just one or two pieces on o er. ose professional hunters that attend the market have spent the weekend digging up a bagful, and are looking for a price that Parisians or the Riviera crowd can a ord – anything up to €1200 (about A$1900) a kilo.

On Tuesdays from December to March, Lalbenque’s high street hosts its curious century-old spectacle: a 2pm-sharp face-o between 50 rabassiers and gangs of prospective buyers.

e tru e-hunters bring small wicker baskets containing their treasure; the prospectors their wallets bulging with notes. Both parties are separated by a long arm’s reach, but they’re close enough for questions to be posed. And though the rabassiers need only announce the weight of their supply, sometimes a buyer might be tantalised with a brief sni .

Ding ding! And then at the 2.30pm bell, the cordon is removed and they lock horns. Business is over within a haggle- lled, gesticulation-peppered half hour.

Lalbenque’s market is the epicentre of the French tru e world. It’s a bourse that decides the price for the entire nation. And it’s an arena that tingles with small-time skullduggery. A rabassier unscrupulously plugs larvae holes with mud; a shady dealer hawks tru es out of his hatchback; gossipmongers whisper about a supplier bumping up stock with an inferior variety.

Now, in March, Lot’s rabassiers are gathering the last tru es of the season. ey’ll soon hang up the leashes and little Kiki will be hunting for a hiding place. Over the summer months – as the Causses bloom, as holiday barges slip along the river, as the stalls of Cahors market creak under the abundance of seasonal produce, as wine is drunk on picnics in ancient woodlands – the tru es will start an extraordinary journey among the tangled roots of the oak. Somewhere. Perhaps.

The Lalbenque truffle market is a curious century-old spectacle.

Rocamadoure

DREAM CONDITIONS AWAIT SNOW ENTHUSIASTS IN COURCHEVEL, THE FRENCH ALPS’ MOST GLAMOROUS SKI RESORT. AND THINGS ONLY GET BETTER FROM THERE

Words by GARY ALLEN

We have over 600 kilometres of trails to ski today so we better get skiing … fast.”

Well, that’s one way to get a skiing enthusiast excited. Another is to simply plonk him on the pristine powder of the world’s largest connected ski area, Les Trois Vallées.

And here I am – utterly enthused and ready to tackle those 600 kilometres my guide, Patrick, from Oxygene Ski & Snowboard School, has promised. It is a textbook bluebird day in Courchevel, an irrefutable winter wonderland located in the Vallées’ westernmost fold. I have four days’ skiing ahead of me and as I stand in wait under a bright, cloudless sky, the temperature sitting at a crisp ve degrees and not even a lick of wind in the air, I cannot believe my luck.

As I look around to share my sense of gleeful disbelief, I realise

Pristine snow stretches as far as the eye can see in Courchevel and Hotel Annapurna (opposite) makes the most of the stellar views.

I am luckier still. ere is barely anyone around; I am at one of the world’s most famous, not to mention glamorous, ski resorts and I’ve got it almost all to myself.

But enough astonishment. It is time to put my skis to work.

Les Trois Vallées is immense with groomed trails spread over, as one might guess, three picturesque valleys. As well as the 600 kilometres of runs Patrick has already highlighted, there are 66 kilometres of cross-country ski trails and 18 kilometres of marked snowshoeing trails. e sheer size of the area means options are plentiful with challenging gradients and o -piste treasures for experts, friendly and accessible runs for beginners, and endless cruising possibilities for those who land somewhere in between.

In the Courchevel valley alone there are 150 kilometres of pistes, and an extensive gondola and lift system across the three valleys allows skiers and boarders to e ciently explore the various resort sectors.

It’s not every day you nd yourself skiing the French Alps so I decide to take full advantage of the accessibility, a fact that is driven home when I return to the hotel and am greeted by the concern of sta . After hours upon hours spent skiing on pure adrenalin, my legs are like jelly, but I quickly explain that my funny walk is the result of a dream day – one I plan to replicate during my stay. Mercifully, there is nowhere better to nurse weary ski legs than in spectacular Courchevel. e resort comprises six villages, dotted along the main road, which serpentines between extraordinary alpine vistas. It stands to reason that the highest site, Courchevel 1850, is also the most luxurious. Named for its altitude, 1850 is a magnet for the super-wealthy and peppered with glamorous bars, restaurants and hotels. No need to forego Prada, Louis Vuitton and friends while snowside either – the streets here are lined with designer boutiques and display windows sparkle with embellished ski equipment.

I begin my stay at Hotel Annapurna, a ski-in/ski-out chalet-style resort with serious clout – it is owned and runby the parents of star ski racer and three-time Olympic medallist, Alexis Pinturault. Annapurna is quaint with a big replace and an inviting lounge area in which to enjoy a drink, have a read and relax. Or, on those beautiful sunny days, enjoy lunch on the large deck area overlooking the slopes with a hot spa right there to soak in day or night. With heated indoor and outdoor swimming pools, saunas, Turkish baths and a Jacuzzi, the Annapurna spa is another appealing option, but the lure of Pralong slope is too strong; it is where Pinturault rst learned his trade, after all.

I also get the chance to stay at Hotel Le Lana, another family owned-and-operated, ski-in/ski-out resort, and another display of accessible luxury. Celebrating 60 years, Le Lana is right across the street from Courchevel’s main gondolas. >>

Dine well in Courchevel

With 10 Michelin-starred restaurants, it is not hard to dine well in Courchevel. And there are also plenty of options delivering memorable fare without the globally recognised accolade. Here, a few of our favourites…

Le 1947

Just 22 guests can enjoy this three-starred restaurant at any one time and the intimacy is a beautiful complement to chef Yannick Alléno’s menu, featuring traditional French cuisine with a creative twist.

La Table Des Airelles

La Table Des Airelles is famous for its lunch bu et, which includes a fresh seafood station and all of the Italian charcuterie and cheeses you could imagine. Lucky skiing builds a solid appetite.

Koori

Located in the chic L’Apogée Hotel, Koori o ers refined Japanese cuisine and, fittingly, an extensive selection of sakés. The lively dining room is buoyed by the open sushi station, where the chefs’ sharp skills are on display.

Le Chabichou

Proud holder of two Michelin stars since 1984, Le Chabichou is as impressive as it is consistent. Chefs Michel Rochedy and Stéphane Buron employ modern techniques to deliver both trusted classics and innovative dishes in an elegant setting.

It is also a chalet-style resort with rooms facing the slopes, some with a Jacuzzi tub and steam room.

Both hotels boast ski rooms, which means sta will set up guests’ equipment in the snow at a time they designate. Simply walk outside, step into your skis and o you go. Service was exceptional at both hotels, a tting complement to the skiing.

Conditions on my subsequent days are a carbon copy of the rst, which is no doubt contributing to my building con dence. Eventually, I nd myself hitting the black runs, although the decision is not without hesitation. ‘Just get down this run and you’re done,’ I thought. Sage advice, if only I listened to it.

A day’s bravery on the slopes is rewarded with exceptional après-ski. Courchevel is home to no less than 10 Michelinstarred restaurants, the awarded group boasting 18 stars between them. French fare, of course, reigns supreme but there is plenty of variety too. Japanese restaurant Koori makes a strong impression on me thanks to its buttery-soft cod, baked in miso and served with satay squash dumplings and a butternut squash foam. e warm saké doesn’t hurt either.

Between meals and adrenalin rushes, I do nd time to check-in with my wife and relay tales of my solo tour. I didn’t consider the implications before telling her it was the best trip I’ve ever been on.

“But I’m not there,” she replied. “How could it be?” I suspect next time she’ll join me.

The Details

Above: Oozing flavour, fondue is a must in Courchevel. Opposite, clockwise from top: Chefs in action at Koori; the bold Hotel Le Lana staircase; the Le Lana bar; the magic of fireworks over the resort.

La Petite Bergerie

Small and cosy, complete with a crackling wood fire, La Petite Bergerie is a favourite with locals, which is the ultimate stamp of approval. The fondue is a must.

Sarkara

Sarkara is the world's first Michelin-starred restaurant to o er only desserts, although the creations of chief pastry chef Sébastien Vauxion appear more like works of art. Too good to eat? Not quite.

All Aboard!

Forget private jets and fast cars. In today’s rapidly moving world, time is the real luxury. And train travel is the perfect way to make the most of it.

Rather than fly, and battle the unavoidable chaos of air travel, I opted for the four-hour train journey from Paris to Moûtiers, en route to Courchevel. Train travel provides the luxury of taking it slow, of taking time with your thoughts and, in my case, the rolling French countryside. Train travel in Europe is more than a return to the glamour of yesteryear; it is convenient and, with more than 250,000 kilometres of tracks and thousands of stations, provides unbeatable access. Rail Europe is the number one distributor of European train tickets and rail passes, with access to more than 50 train companies complete with genuine customer support.

For more information on Hotel Annapurna, visit annapurna-courchevel .com. For more information on Hotel Le Lana, visit lelana.com . L’Atelier o ers a wide range of ski and snowboard equipment hire and sales as well as clothing and expertise. atelier-courchevel.com.

Rail passes allow for ultimate freedom (the Eurail Global Pass, for example, provides unlimited travel over three months to 31 countries) while even single-trip tickets o er great flexibility. I am reminded of such conveniences as a battle the tra c, and then the madness of Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport, as I begin my journey homebound. raileurope-world.com

Taste

Tahiti

WHEN LAURENCE ANZAI FIRST TRAVELLED TO FRENCH Polynesia from her native France, it was for a well-earned, monthlong holiday. When she arrived at her nal destination, Mo’orea, an idyllic island just northwest of Tahiti, she quickly decided she never wanted to leave.

So, she didn’t.

Apart from a swift journey home to gather her belongings and tie loose ends, Anzai has lived in Mo’orea with her then-partner, now-husband, Kei, since the pair took that life-changing holiday in 2006. And what appealed to the couple, as well as the spectacular landscapes and beautiful people this region is famous for, was the delectable local cuisine.

Tahitian food is a delicious fusion of French and Pasi ka culture; a celebration of fresh local produce and European nesse. Visitors to e Islands of Tahiti discover this quickly. e many ve-star resorts dotted across the popular South Paci c archipelago deliver exquisite dining across their numerous restaurants, but the foodtruck culture is renowned too. And it’s older than most having been established well before the trend reached ubiquity.

In Mo’orea, Anzai has been catering for tourists and locals since 2011 through Lilikoi, a passion project that started as a food truck and has now expanded to a café, a deli and a catering service. And the expansion continues; Anzai launched Lilikoi Mo’orea Food Tours in April.

“I decided to get out of my kitchen once a week and bring people for a visit of the island, its produce and its producers,” Anzai explains. “I love hiking and chatting, picking up fruits and cooking, so the food tour is a mix of what I love to do on the island. >>

A COMBINATION OF FRENCH AND PASIFIKA CULTURE, TAHITIAN CUISINE IS AS INVITING AS THE SOUTH PACIFIC DESTINATION ITSELF, WRITES KATE SYMONS

Fresh produce, such as lilikoi (passionfruit), abounds.

“Tahitian food is a delicious fusion of French and Pasifika culture; a celebration of fresh local produce and European finesse. Visitors to The Islands of Tahiti discover this quickly.”

“It is such a nice way to discover Mo’orea and we have lots of fun cooking and eating. People will learn about Mo’orea, about the local products and will enjoy great landscapes and great people that work on the island to feed us.” Home to a vast range of beauty, authenticity, culture, tropical fruits and local delicacies, e Islands of Tahiti are the perfect setting for a relaxed yet educational tour of the local surroundings.

Nestled between the coconut trees on the slopes of Mt Mouputa, Lilikoi is a short walk from the hotels of Mo’orea and certainly more rustic than what you’ll nd in-house at many of those luxury resorts. But that’s part of the appeal.

Food tour guests will discover local  sh, local honey, a fruit and vegetable plantation, a shrimp farm and pineapple plantation, as well as a rum and juice factory. en it’s time to put the bounty to good use. With expert instruction from Anzai, guests will cook three dishes in the beachside kitchen: a Tahitian trademark poisson cru in coconut milk; shrimp with a medley of fresh local vegetables; and a sweet pineapple-laden dessert. Vegetarians are also catered for. e fruits of guests’ labour then become lunch, a delicious end to a delightful day.

“I love the fact that cooking here is simple and that products are so fresh and good for your health,” Anzai says of her adopted home. “I play with food a lot and love to arrange new tastes like pineapple and rosemary, plantation banana with grilled yakitori [and] fresh tuna poke bowl with mango and pesto.”

Growing up in the rolling mountains of the French countryside, Anzai was in uenced by her grandmother’s cooking. Now, visitors to this beautiful part of the world can be in uenced by hers.

The Details

To learn more about Laurence Anzai and Lilikoi Mo’orea Food Tours, visit lilikoimoorea.com. For more information about The Islands of Tahiti, visit tahititourisme.com.au.

While you’re here

You could spend a lot of time indulging in the island’s flavours, but when you’ve had your fill, there’s plenty more to choose from.

WHALE ENCOUNTERS

Whale watching is a special experience, but Majestic Whale Encounters can help you step it up a notch. The eco-conscious company o ers once-in-a-lifetime journeys to swim with whales in either Tonga, Norway or, of course, Tahiti. majesticwhaleencounters.com.au

SAIL AWAY

Crystal-clear waters are a hallmark of The Islands of Tahiti and you can explore more of it with a sailing holiday. Yacht charter specialist Moorings have recently added two new luxury vessels to its fleet, and can be booked with or without a crew. moorings.com.au

ISLAND HOPPING

No matter where you choose to bed down during your South Pacific holiday, there will be countless other islands worth exploring, and some of them you might never have heard of. For a look at some of Tahiti’s o -the-tourist-trail islands, visit luxurytravelmag.com.au and search ‘Tahiti’.

Playdate IN Paradise

THE MALDIVES ISN’T ALL ABOUT POOLSIDE LOUNGING AND SPA SESSIONS. MADELIN TOMELTY TAPS INTO HER INNER CHILD ON A SPIRITED RECESS AT NIYAMA PRIVATE ISLANDS

“I HAVE THE BEST JOB IN THE WORLD!” THE BEAMING

Maldivian is grinning from ear to ear as he expertly machetes into a green coconut, adds a paper straw and enthusiastically hands it to me. Forget Bhutan, the Buddhist Kingdom often considered the world’s happiest country, I think I’ve found one of the happiest people on the planet right here at Niyama Private Islands, and guests know him as the Coconut Guru.

Maybe he has special psychic powers, too, because I was just beginning to hanker for a drink when the nostalgic sound of someone whistling made my ears prick up – when was the last time I heard someone whistle? As if by magic, there he was on my poolside terrace, and in a ji y he was o with his cheerful trill to quench the thirst of the next guest. ‘Where am I!?’ I think. But I only have to look at the door of my villa, where a carved wooden sign reads: “Madelin’s Home”. Ah yes, silly me. I’m at my island home in the Maldives.

And you’d be one of the happiest people in the world, too, if you woke up here every morning – a destination widely considered one of the most idyllic and breathtakingly beautiful known to man. It may as well be a gment of my imagination, or a CGI scene expertly designed by Oscar-winning Hollywood lmmakers. e ocean is awlessly blue, the light awlessly dreamy, the sand awlessly soft, the coconuts awlessly sweet and the air awlessly warm – it really is a nightmare – so naturally, I’m never leaving.

I am a Maldives debutante, so I’ve gone into this holiday particularly wide-eyed and excited – after all, I’ve been seeing perfect photos and hearing fairytale stories about this place for years. I expected to be awe-struck, but what I didn’t expect was for the Maldives to spark in me a sense of child-like joy and wonder that has taken me quite by surprise.

I embrace the wide-handlebar bicycle I’m given when I check in (replete with another personalised wooden sign) with the enthusiasm of a BMX Bandit straight out of the 1980s, and cycle around Niyama’s two small islands – Chill and Play – without a care in the world. I’ve heard every podcast and read every Oprah’s Book Club-worthy tome on mindfulness, but it sure does make it easier to live in the moment when your surroundings are as paradisiacal as those found in the Maldives.

It’s a game well played by Niyama. Offering 134 rooms including beach villas, iconic overwater villas and multibedroom villas; a kids’ club; a lounge room aptly named ‘The Lair’; and a Bali-style beach bar, the resort caters to all ages and a widening Maldives visitor market no longer reserved for bedroom-bound honeymooners.

“People want active experiences and adventure,” says Deveekaa Nijhawan, Cluster Director of Public Relations at Niyama, and they’re coming to the Maldives in droves on boys’ trips, girls’ trips and family holidays – not just romantic couples’ escapes. >>

“It may as well be a figment of my imagination, or a CGI scene expertly designed by Oscar-winning Hollywood filmmakers. The ocean is flawlessly blue, the light flawlessly dreamy, the sand flawlessly soft, the coconuts flawlessly sweet and the air flawlessly warm.”

“We play hard in the Maldives, and by our last night in paradise, this toddler is all tuckered out. But there’s no time to notice, because another cinematic moment is unfolding before my eyes: a candlelit beach barbecue Destination Dining experience on the powdery white sand, followed by a private movie by moonlight.”

Niyama is capturing this breed of restless, experience-seeking tourist that easily gets bored and doesn’t want to dine at the same two restaurants throughout their precious holiday.

Lucky for them there are no less than nine unique restaurants to choose from at Niyama, ranging from the momentous underwater restaurant, Subsix, to the treetop teppanyaki joint, Nest, casual poolside dining at Blu and, set half a kilometre from shore, the slick, overwater experience of Edge. But my personal favourite is Tribal, the Latino-African restaurant in the lantern-lit jungle that has my tastebuds doing the samba just a few mouthfuls in.

It’s ‘choose your own adventure’ at Niyama, and not just when it comes to what’s on your plate. How about sea-tubing?

Parasailing? Sea-bobbing? It’s a good thing Niyama caters to children because my travel companions and I all turn into 10-year-olds at the watersports shack, each one of us eagerly putting up our hand to partake in activities we haven’t done since we were kids, if at all. “What’s that one that looks like Buzz Lightyear? Jet-packing, you say? Sure, I’ll give it a go!” ere are surf lessons on o er for those who are game, and a half-day boating adventure with a snorkeling pit-stop. But it’s not the marine life that’s the highlight of our day. Instead, it’s pods of chummy spinner dolphins we encounter – or rather, that encounter us – and wake-surf alongside the boat as we traverse the aquamarine ocean. ey put on one hell of a performance, leaping into the air, spinning and ipping like rhythmic gymnasts chasing Olympic gold, and leave each of us buzzing from the thrill of it all.

We play hard in the Maldives, and by our last night in paradise, this toddler is all tuckered out. But there’s no time to notice, because another cinematic moment is unfolding before my eyes: a candlelit beach barbecue Destination Dining experience on the powdery white sand, followed by a private movie by moonlight.

After digging into dinner under the stars we hunker down into our beanbags, plates full of chocolate and sugar-coated goodies. We need to agree on a movie, and it’s an easy decision. After our light-hearted and playful holiday, it seems only right that we pick a lm with a similar theme. Tag, a comedy about four friends who have been reuniting to play the children’s game of the same name for 20 years, is the perfect t. As for the Maldives, when I visit again I won’t hesitate to say: “Niyama, you’re it.”

The Details

Niyama Private Islands is a 40-minute seaplane flight from Malé on the southwestern atoll of Dhaalu. Beach villas start from A$857 per night. niyama.com

Mandarin Oriental, Paris

DUPLEX SUITE

Size: 65 square metres / Price: From €2100 (about A$3350) per night / Reviewed by:

Victoria Allen / Details: mandarinoriental.com/paris

Hotel

e Mandarin Oriental, Paris is situated in the midst of the city’s prestigious fashion district while being only a short walk from popular historical sites such as Place Vendôme, Tuileries Garden and the Louvre. In keeping with global Mandarin Oriental standards, the hotel features well-considered pieces of art and decor that re ect contemporary Parisian style. is also helps guests relax after a day in the bustling city. e hotel features 98 rooms and 40 suites, along with three restaurants, a cocktail bar, and a boutique cake shop. e building was constructed in the 1930s and the Art-Deco style pays homage to the rich history of European architecture.

Suite

e hotel o ers seven suite options, all of which provide ample space to help guests feel right at home. Suites range from the 65-squaremetre Duplex Suite, lled with natural light and featuring two oors, to the spectacular 407-square-metre Penthouse Floor, which boasts three rooms and a private gym and elevator, among other luxurious features. No matter the suite, comfort and sophistication exude, creating a tranquil experience for however long you call the hotel home.

Locale

e hotel is positioned perfectly for any traveller, in the thick of Rue Saint Honoré. e juxtaposition of modern high fashion intertwined with a handful of iconic attractions means experiencing an authentic Parisian day is e ortless. Whether you step out of the Mandarin Oriental with a destination in mind or intend to aimlessly stroll, the surrounding culture, history, shopping, cafés, and landmarks will easily consume your time and leave a lasting impression. Like most things in Paris, this destination will give you a sense of ful llment, yet at the same time leave you craving more.

Eat In

A lot of luxury hotels sing the praises of their on-site restaurants and bars, but few can back such claims with Michelin stars. Sur Mesure can. Since 2012, Sur Mesure has been awarded two Michelin stars with Chef ierry Marx pushing traditional-cooking boundaries while staying true to the freshest seasonal o erings. At Caméila restaurant, Marx expresses his passion for traditional French cuisine while exploring Japan’s culinary traditions. L’Honoré provides lighter healthy options such as avocado toasts, salads and poke bowls. Bar 8 and e Cake Shop allow guests to indulge deeper, whichever way they desire.

Special Touches

e Mandarin Oriental, Paris was the rst hotel in the French capital to obtain the High Quality Environment certi cation and e orts to maintain such standards are incorporated throughout. e hotel’s indoor garden, with ourishing trees and owers, is watered with an environmentally friendly drip system; soundproofed windows help control air temperature; and the rooftop vegetable garden is complemented by two beehives, home to about 100,000 residents in support of increasing the global bee population. e harvested honey is used in the hotel’s kitchen.

Queen Kapi‘olani Hotel, Hawaii

DIAMOND HEAD VIEW

Size: 28-32 square metres / Price: From A$486 per night / Reviewed by:

Richard Bunting / Details: queenkapiolani.com

Hotel

Named after the wife of the last reigning King of Hawaii, the Queen Kapi‘olani in Waikiki is the perfect hotel to sit back and relax in – a double dose of luck, given it’s located in the perfect destination to sit back and relax in. e hotel’s $35 million renovation was completed in 2018, and included a complete refurbishment of all rooms as well as the restaurant and bar. e result is laid-back luxury with a strong summer vibe, which hits as soon as you step into the lobby. Open and inviting, the lobby’s walls are adorned with commissioned art, photographs and posters of yesteryear celebrating the golden era of Waikiki.

Suite Queen Kapi‘olani o ers nine di erent accommodation styles, including the topshelf Grand Leahi and Penthouse suites. Our Diamond Head View room provided ample space with a king bed plus sofa bed, a small

lanai (balcony) and all the comforts you would expect from a hotel of this standing. e refurbishment introduced new furniture throughout and the cool-blue palette espouses relaxation. Add the uninterrupted view to the famous Diamond Head volcano and you are certainly travelling in style.

Locale

Queen Kapi‘olani is located on Kapahulu Avenue opposite Honolulu Zoo and only a few hundred metres from the alluring blue waters and iconic surf breaks of famous Waikiki Beach. Despite its proximity to the main shopping and dining precinct, the hotel provides an escape from the hustle and bustle of Waikiki’s crowds.

Eat In

Located on Level 3, DECK bar and grill is open all day and into the evening. Serving fresh Hawaiian-style cuisine with an expansive indoor and outdoor setting, it is an ideal place to sit

back and relax with a cocktail or beer thanks to the sweeping view over the zoo through to Diamond Head. Located in the lobby, Knots Co ee Roasters is cool café by day and chic small bar by night.

Special Touches

e hotel’s second oor is home to the Royal Art Gallery, showcasing original portraits of Hawaiian ali‘i (royalty), including Queen Kapi‘olani herself.

e collection is striking and unique, and well worth a visit, particularly if you are interested in Hawaiian history. e work of local artists Mike Field, Nick Kuchar and Katie Borden is also featured throughout the hotel, adding colour and vibrancy. Another highlight is the hotel sta . Queen Kapi‘olani is a well-positioned launchpad for all manner of activities in Waikiki or wider Oahu island and the knowledgeable concierge team is only too happy to help.

The Murray, Hong Kong

N3 GRAND DELUXE

Size: 50 square metres / Price: From HKD 4700 (about A$844) per night / Reviewed by: Gary Allen / Details: niccolohotels.com

Hotel

e Murray, Hong Kong is a new luxury landmark in the heart of one of the world’s most exciting cities. Built in 1969, the former government building has been refashioned into a peaceful city retreat, all while abiding by strict heritage laws (and ensuring the preservation of an enormous old tree). e hotel overlooks St John’s Cathedral, a grand church built in the 1840s and one of Hong Kong’s o cial Declared Monuments. Water, mountain and city views are all on show from various points throughout the hotel, a modernised ve-star establishment with style and a whole lot of character. Exceptional design is evident as soon as you enter the lobby and beautiful artwork is found throughout the premises. With 336 sophisticated rooms and suites spread over 25 oors, there are plenty of places to enjoy a meal, drink or quiet time, while state-of-the-art amenities such as a gym, swimming pools and a spa are also available.

Suite

In a city like Hong Kong, only a suite with large windows will do the stay justice. And at e Murray, every room o ers oor-to-ceiling, uniquely recessed windows, providing gorgeous natural light and a front-row seat to the cityscape, which puts on a particularly dazzling show at night. Most of hotel’s spacious rooms are 50 square metres or more and include a large living area decked out in a slick colour scheme of white, chrome and black. And still there is room enough for a large marbled bathroom complete with a Japanese toilet, famous for its bells and whistles (and I do mean whistles, literally). For the business traveller, there is a small nook with a beautiful desk and any o ce products you might need. e 400-thread-count sheets and huge u y pillows along with noise-blocking windows allow for a very comfortable night. Free mini bar excluding alcohol is always appreciated.

Locale

e hotel’s convenient CBD location on Cotton Wood Drive is perfect for business or leisure travellers. Everything is just a quick cab ride away or walk through urban parks to get to the main shopping areas. Hong Kong is one of the greatest cities in the world because of these beautiful

parks that are always clean and gra ti free, and wonderful day and night. Outside the hotel is also the tram which takes you up to the peak for some views and hiking – an absolute must for any visitor. Or, if calorie-burning is more your style, you can hike up and tram down. Don’t forget water!

Eat In

Hong Kong is known for exceptional cuisine and e Murray doesn’t disappoint if you choose to dine in. e rooftop restaurant and bar, Popinjays, boasts a crowd-pleasing menu with a side of spectacular views; Tai Pan o ers delicious Western dishes with a tasting menu with delights such as lobster bisque and black miso cod; and the Garden Lounge is perfect for lunch or a pre- or post-dinner drink. For an upscale Cantonese experience, Guo Fu Lou will bring you ne dining and an extensive wine selection.

Special Touches

I loved taking advantage of the laundry service, which o ered the dry cleaning/laundering/ pressing of two pieces per day. is was just one of the numerous complimentary o erings with conveniences like baby products (strollers, toys, playpens), wet weather needs (a shawl, scarf, raincoat) and even a beard/moustache comb (a rst for me) available.

10 NIGHTS

Belmond’s Grand Tour of Southern Africa

Watch elephants parade across Botswana’s Okavango Delta, explore cosmopolitan Cape Town, taste rare labels from the winelands – Africa is a feast for the senses.

A $16,899 per person / twin share

TRAVEL DATES

2 NOVEMBER – 12 NOVEMBER 2019

INCLUSIONS

• Return international airfares from Australia

• 6 nights’ accommodation fully inclusive of meals, local beverages and safari activities

• Light aircraft fights from/to Maun and in between lodges

• National park fees in Botswana

• 4 nights at the Belmond Mount Nelson Hotel

• Private return airport transfers in Cape Town

BY LUXURY TRAVEL MAGAZINE

PARTNERSHIP WITH

18 NIGHTS

East Coast USA & Canada Explorer

From New York City to Amish country, explore some of North America’s most eye-opening natural wonders and landmarks.

A $7,699 per person / twin share

TRAVEL DATES

26 AUGUST – 12 SEPTEMBER 2019

INCLUSIONS

• 4 nights at the New York Sheraton Times Square

• 14-day coach tour in USA and Canada

• 13 breakfasts and 4 dinners

• First- or Superior First-class hotel accommodation

• Hotel taxes, porterage, tips and service

24 NIGHTS

Pacific Island Luxury Cruise

Discover the meaning of ‘inclusive luxury’ aboard Regent Seven Seas Navigator as you cruise through paradise and get acquainted with the culture of French Polynesia.

A $13,749 per person / twin share

TRAVEL DATES

30 DECEMBER 2019 – 23 JANUARY 2020

INCLUSIONS

• International airfares from Australia to Papeete

• 4 nights at the Hotel Tahiti Ia Ora Beach Resort

• Private transfer from Airport to Resort & Resort to Port in Tahiti

• 20-night Pacific Island Adventure on board

Seven Seas Navigator, all on-board meals, unlimited beverages, shore excursions and more

• Port charges and taxes

The view’s better from here.

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