Luxury Travel Magazine - Issue 79

LUXURY EXPEDITION CRUISES

Antarctic | Arctic | Greece | Italy | Japan | Kimberley | Baltic Sea NEW

“Glittering white, shining blue, raven black... the land looks like a fairytale. Pinnacle after pinnacle, peak after peak – crevassed, wild as any land on our globe, it lies, unseen and untrodden. It is a wonderful feeling to travel along it.” – Roald Amundsen

An ultra-refined portfolio of luxury polar expeditions and immersive cultural cruises. Every voyage an all-inclusive, unscripted adventure on a state-of-the-art expedition vessel, with award-winning on-board programmes, and out-of-this-world shore expeditions. 2020–21 voyages on sale now with early booking discounts on most departures. The best suites and staterooms selling fast.

2021–22 voyages also open for registration of interest.

Talk to your travel agent or call Abercrombie & Kent on 1300 851 800. www.abercrombiekent.com.au

Book now and save up to up to $15,940 per couple on some of our most popular Arctic and Antarctic cruises. Solo travellers can also take advantage of 50% o the single supplement on select departures. Visit abercrombiekent.com.au for details.

Blue as far as the eye can see. Wonders so close you can touch them.

GO BEYOND. IMMERSE INTO THE ICONIC LUXURY OF HAYMAN ISLAND BY INTERCONTINENTAL®.

Welcome to a new era of immersive luxury in the heart of the Great Barrier Reef. Hayman Island by InterContinental will immerse you in the breathtaking natural beauty of the Whitsundays, iconic private island experiences and sacred moments of connection with your family, friends and yourself.

Discover a place of visual and visceral beauty so deep, it will leave you feeling transformed.

To celebrate the opening, experience Hayman's suite collection with your third night complimentary.*

To learn more visit www.haymanisland.intercontinental.com, email hayman.reservations@ihg.com or call 07 5501 9992.

*Conditions apply. Subject to availability.Valid for stays of three-nights or more.

From the Publisher

I’ll be truthful; I resisted cruising for years. Being ‘stuck’ on a ship never seemed an attractive way to spend my time. I envisioned endlessly walking the decks, going to the gym twice a day and eating too much food. But, I finally broke the ice and now I want more.

SeaDream is at fault here. The luxury small-ship line was behind my first cruising experience and I was quickly taken by the yacht, and the great food and service. I particularly loved waking up in a new port each day, ready to explore. There were early morning bike rides to wake up to, excursions aplenty... I loved it.

And so do plenty of Australians. We are the world’s fifth-largest cruising nation with more than 1.34 million passengers in 2017 – up from just 250,000 in 2007. To maintain its appeal, the industry is changing all the time, and there is no one better to sum up the evolution than our Cruise Contributing Editor, Sally Macmillan (New Horizons, page 46). Sally’s deep dive is just the beginning of our commitment to cruising this issue with Pamela Wade (Silver & Gold, page 62) and Barry Stone (High Tech on the High Seas, page 66) both sharing recent on-board experiences.

From luxury ships to all-terrain vehicles, Keith Austin brings you the colour of Kenya (Under the Kenyan Sun, page 104) after experiencing the country’s incredible diversity. Also in this issue, our Digital Editor, Madelin Tomelty, paints a beautifully vivid picture of Sardinia’s Costa Smeralda (A Sardinian Gem, page 114), and Kelly Allen leads us into the Ecuadorian rainforest for a peek at her Adventures in the Clouds (page 122).

We also welcome a special guest contributor this issue. Daniel Turner is the Director and Co-founder of ANIMONDIAL, a UK-based animal welfare consultancy. I am truly grateful to Daniel for taking the time to share his insights on wildlife tourism (Born to be Wild, page 30). It is encouraging to see many travellers seeking responsible operators and agents but, as Daniel says, it is important we don’t take things on face value. I learnt a lot from what Daniel had to say. His work is making a difference. As travellers, we can too. Just being conscious of the animals you encounter during your travels – what they are doing and what their living conditions are like – can really make you question whether you are having a positive impact or not.

As always, thank you for flipping our pages and safe travels.

Gary Allen

Sally Macmillan NEW HORIZONS 46

Cruise specialist and avid traveller Sally Macmillan has sailed on ships of all sizes and styles across all seven continents, from a 33foot yacht through the Indonesian archipelago to cruising on the world’s biggest passenger ship in the Caribbean. When she’s not hard at work checking out ships and exotic cruise destinations, Sally enjoys crewing on a small but competitive yacht on Sydney’s Pittwater.

Wade SILVER & GOLD 62

Since swapping the security of teaching for the erratic but always interesting life of travel writing, Pamela Wade has slept in a swag by a croc-infested river, barked back at a sea lion in Antarctica, watched the sun set behind North Cape and steered a 16-metre narrowboat into a lock with only one gate open. She has learned on her many journeys that it is most definitely not a small world, but it is a beautiful and endlessly fascinating one.

Keith Austin UNDER THE KENYAN SUN 104

Originally from London’s East End, Keith Austin has been a journalist for more than 40 years. He has edited two cookbooks, four editions of the NSW Good Pub Food Guide, and is the author of three Young Adult novels. He is passionate about food, drink, travel, writing, photography, humour and football. But not in that order.

Jacqueline Schofield ADVENTURES IN THE CLOUDS 122

Back behind the lens after a break to raise her four boys, Jacqueline Schofield has reignited her passion for travel and the beauty of nature in its purest form. “I love to inspire others to want to experience the journey for themselves,” she says. The wonders of Ecuador, as seen through Jacqueline’s lens from page 122, will truly have you wanting more.

Pamela

Because it’s yours. The quirkies, the friendlies, the curious, and of course the kind. Small group tours bring you closer to our world, its people, their culture, and their way of life. If you want to be part of where our world is headed, go and see where the rest of it is going.

DISCOVER

AUTHENTIC BEAUTY

DISCOVER THE TRUE SPIRIT OF THE MEDITERRANEAN WITH SILVER MOON

BUILT BY CRUISE LOVERS, FOR CRUISE LOVERS: SILVER MOON — LAUNCHING 2020.

Silver Moon will be the epitome of 21st century luxury travel.

Building on the phenomenal success of the Silversea flagship, Silver Muse, comes Silver Moon. To be delivered in August 2020 – she will mirror her sister ship and will establish a new era of Silversea. With capacity to accommodate only 596 passengers, Silver Moon will maintain the small-ship intimacy and spacious all-suite accommodation that are the hallmarks of the Silversea experience. Silver Moon will also feature the all-new Sea And Land Taste (S.A.L.T.) programme – an immersive culinary concept that will enable guests to travel deeper through a range of destination based gastronomic experiences.

Get ready - a new moon is coming.

SILVERSEA’S ALL INCLUSIVE LIFESTYLE

The Silversea all-inclusive lifestyle means embracing the moment, without having to wonder about the cost. We invite you to experience whispered luxury onboard our beautiful fleet. During your voyage, we aim to surprise and delight you, below are just a few ways how:

Spacious, elegantly appointed ocean-view suites, most with a private veranda

Personalised butler service for every suite

New S.A.L.T. Lab, Kitchen and Bar

Eight restaurants on board, diverse cuisine, open seating dining and 24 hour insuite dining

Nearly one crew member for every guest

Complimentary Wi-Fi and onboard gratuities included for all guests

Complimentary beverages served throughout the ship and in-suite, including Champagne, select wines, beers and spirits

FOR MORE INFORMATION CONTACT YOUR PREFERRED TRAVEL PROFESSIONAL, CALL SILVERSEA ON 1300 727 155 OR VISIT SILVERSEA.COM

For more information, itineraries and terms and conditions, visit Silversea.com

EXECUTIVE EDITOR & PUBLISHER

Gary Allen gary@luxurytravelmedia.com.au

GENERAL MANAGER & MANAGING EDITOR

Richard Bunting

t: +61 424 138 806 rbunting@luxurytravelmedia.com.au

DIGITAL EDITOR & FEATURE WRITER

Madelin Tomelty mtomelty@luxurytravelmedia.com.au

ART DIRECTOR

Kyle Sansbury design@luxurytravelmedia.com.au

CONTRIBUTING EDITOR & COPY EDITOR

Kate Symons ksymons@luxurytravelmedia.com.au

HEALTH & WELLNESS EDITOR

Kelly Allen kallen@luxurytravelmedia.com.au

CRUISE CONTRIBUTING EDITOR

Sally Macmillan sallymacmillan@bigpond.com

US CONTRIBUTOR

Jennifer Maeder jbmaeder@gmail.com

DIRECTORS Scott & Robin Venturelli

ON THE COVER Quark Expeditions, Antarctica

© Photograph courtesy Andrey Nosik

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HERAKLION HARBOUR, CRETE

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Q SEARCH NUKUTEPIPI: THE PRIVATE ISLAND PARADISE OF YOUR DREAMS

One of the most exclusive islands in the South Pacific has opened for business in The Islands of Tahiti, and it takes the concept of a private island holiday to a whole new level. The idyllic, six-kilometre-long atoll accommodates up to 52 guests, and can only be rented in its entirety, so it might be time to call in the troops to fill the 16 luxurious lodgings positioned on the isle’s sandy, white shores. We’re sure they won’t mind.

Our media-rich, immersive digital articles will transport you to the world’s most beautiful – and luxurious – destinations. Feed your wanderlust with stories such as:

Q SEARCH

MYKONOS’ TOP 10 MOST PHOTOGENIC LOCATIONS

Mykonos isn’t short of photo opportunities, offering azure waters, windswept beaches, decadent pools, authentic tavernas and historic white-washed buildings. Discover our list of 10 picture-perfect places to visit – and photograph – on this romantic Greek island at luxurytravelmag.com.au.

Take a step back in time with our immersive story that showcases Raffles, past and present, and unveils the iconic hotel’s revitalised facade and interiors following its two-and-a-half-year restoration. Luxury travellers can expect updated suites (and more of them), collaborations with celebrity chefs such as French chef Alain Ducasse as well as a new era for the famous Long Bar, where you’ll find the hotel’s most famous cocktail, the Singapore Sling. Needless to say, the much-loved tradition of tossing peanut shells on the floor isn’t going anywhere.

A HOTEL LEGEND RETURNS WITH THE OFFICIAL REOPENING OF RAFFLES SINGAPORE ON AUGUST 1

IT MIGHT BE THE GORILLAS THAT HAVE LONG LURED VISITORS TO RWANDA, but new nature hideaway Singita Kwitonda Lodge isn’t doing a bad job of further piquing our interest in ‘The Land of a Thousand Hills’, either. Newly opened on 72 hectares on the edge of Volcanoes National Park, the exclusive, eight-suite lodge is not only the embodiment of safari suave, with striking yet calming interiors that echo the wildly beautiful landscape, but it was built from materials sourced from the local community. As for the gorilla factor, if the fact that the lodge is situated less than 10 minutes from possible primate sightings isn’t enough for you, then you’ll be pleased to know Singita is also committed to extensive reforestation initiatives to increase the range and numbers of endangered mountain gorillas in the area. Dian Fossey would be proud.

singita.com

EXPLORATION DREAM TEAM

WITH PONANT & NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC

IT IS A MATCH MADE IN AQUATIC HEAVEN. A new partnership between luxury cruise line PONANT and National Geographic Expeditions promises to take passengers beyond the boundaries of mainstream travel. And the initiative is about to set sail.

In the Wake of Pioneers, a 15-day expedition voyage departing Nome, Alaska on September 15, is the maiden voyage for the partnership, which was announced last year. En route to Vancouver, passengers will be awestruck by the wild open spaces of this remote and pristine territory, and the journey will only be enriched by the National Geographic photographer and expert on board.

This is an integral feature of all 130 cruises designed as part of the collaboration. National Geographic experts include writers, archaeologists, adventurers, anthropologists and field researches, and all are well equipped to

passionately share their knowledge as well as the global perspective.

Described as a “partnership forged around common values”, the four-year arrangement has been built with education, conservation and adventure at its heart. A portion of proceeds will go to the National Geographic Society, a nonprofit organisation using exploration as a means to better understand and protect our planet.

Importantly, the key components of exploration and education do not come at the cost of luxury with PONANT’s state-of-the-art expedition ships custom-built to comfortably navigate distant seas. Exceptional service in elegant surrounds remain a hallmark of the PONANT experience.

Itineraries cover all continents although the Antarctic and Arctic are the core destinations. For more information, or to view the itineraries, visit au.ponant.com/national-geographic.

SLH GOES GREEN FOR ITS 30TH BIRTHDAY

Small Luxury Hotels (SLH) has announced it will be taking an environmentallyfriendly step forward as it approaches its 30th birthday in 2020. The hotel group has partnered with The Considerate Group, which helps businesses operate more responsibly, to launch a brand-wide conscious travel strategy in line with the UN Sustainable Development Goals. “Through our new standards for conscious travel, which we will be launching at our Global Conference next spring, we will formalise our commitment as a business to this, showcasing

hotels and their activities to inspire others, whilst providing guidelines for those hotels looking to take positive action and expand their sustainability programs,” Jean-François Ferret, CEO, Small Luxury Hotels of the Word, told Luxury Travel The decision follows a recent poll of SLH-invited members, which found that 72 per cent either prefer to, or exclusively stay in, hotels that practice some form of responsible tourism or that cater to a diverse group of guests. Below are some of the recent green initiatives from the SLH portfolio. slh.com

akyra

TAS Sukhumvit Bangkok

NO PLASTIC, PLEASE

The first ‘no single-use plastic’ hotel in Asia, akyra TAS Sukhumvit Bangkok gives guests a stainlesssteel water bottle in their room, which can be refilled for free at water stations on every floor. The toiletries in the rooms are packaged in locally made celadon containers, and bin bags are all biodegradable.

137 Pillars Suites, Bangkok

LOW ENERGY

Energy wastage is kept to a minimum, thanks to the use of in-room motion detectors which turn off the lights when they’re not needed, along with air-conditioning units that automatically switch off when the balcony doors are opened. LED lights are used throughout, and the hotel has invested in a two-step toilet-flushing system to reduce water waste.

137 Pillars House, Chiang Mai

BYE BYE, BUGS

Chaing Mai’s 137 Pillars House recently hired an internationally acclaimed mosquito expert who has shown the property how best to sustainably eliminate and limit mosquito breeding areas without the use of chemicals. Fogging is now required a lot less frequently.

Hotel Lungarno, Florence CLEAN AND GREEN

Hotel Lungarno has teamed up with hospitality recycling program Clean the World to recycle its soap and shampoo. The hotel sends the leftover products to countries vulnerable to diseases that could be prevented with improved hygiene such as washing hands with soap.

Ariana

Ariana Sustainable Luxury Lodge produces 26 per cent of its energy through solar power, provides Tesla charging points and cultivates its own vegetables and grapes.

Velassaru Maldives

GUILT-FREE STRAWS

Velassaru Maldives has introduced flavoured edible straws that can withstand up to half an hour submerged in liquids. Made from sugar and corn starch, these straws are gluten free and come in chocolate, strawberry and neutral flavours. The resort has also introduced a Recycling Facility and a Pro-Biotic Aeration Plant that reuses greywater to irrigate gardens.

Cape

Cape Kudu staff build nests for hornbills to create safe sanctuaries for female hornbills to nest and moult. The property also involves guests in its sustainability efforts, encouraging visitors to collect recyclable waste in return for a free drink or ice cream at Cafe Kantary. Recyclable waste was recently sent to five local schools where students turned it into art.

Ovolo Woolloomooloo PLANT POWER

This hotel saw the launch of the first ever 100 per cent plant-based hotel dining establishment in early 2018 with Alibi. By developing a menu with plant-based dining pioneer Matthew Kenny, Alibi seeks to educate consumers on plant-based dining using seasonal and locally sourced produce. The property also harnesses energy from its aquatic surroundings to power its elevator.

Sustainable Luxury Lodge, Turkey SOLAR POWER

Kudu, Koh Yao Noi SAVE THE BIRDS

WHISTLER: NOT JUST FOR SKIERS

Gaia Gets an Upgrade

Twelve months into its extensive refurbishment, Gaia Retreat & Spa in the Byron Bay hinterland has unveiled a twobedroom Komala Luxe Villa overlooking the retreat’s lush landscape of undulating valleys and organic gardens. Designed for utmost indulgence and R&R, the expansive villa has a saltwater infinity plunge pool, large private deck areas with daybed kabana, lounge-room fireplace and its own private treatment areas. Samadhi Yoga Room has also been upgraded, and with its position nestled in the sprawling rainforest, offers morning yoga as well as meditation and sound healing with a truly magical vista. gaiaretreat.com.au

US$35K

Following on from Whistler Blackcomb’s historic investment of CAD$52 million (about A$58 million) last year, enhancing the world’s longest continuous lift system – the three-gondola mountain interconnect, Peak 2 Peak – there are now even more reasons to visit this world-famous ski destination… even if you’re not a skier. Fresh Tracks Mountain-Top Breakfast sees guests boarding the Whistler Village Gondola at 7:15am before heading up to the Roundhouse Lodge for a delicious, mountain-sized breakfast buffet. Then, as an added bonus for the skiers along for the ride, guests get their fill of fresh powder or perfectly groomed corduroy on the upper mountain before the rest of world is even out of bed. For those more interested in the view, continue on the Peak 2 Peak Gondola and take in the vantage point from 436 metres above ground. mogulski.com.au

The amount it will cost per day to stay on board the International Space Station (ISS), when it opens its doors to tourists in 2020. Just two private astronauts per year will be permitted to stay on board the ISS for up to 30 days each, and they will have to use a commercial US spacecraft, such as Elon Musk’s SpaceX vessels, to get there.

LT / DISCOVERY

INSPIRATO PASS

If you get a rude awakening every time you calculate how much you’ve spent on travel for the year, you’ll be relieved to know there’s a new membership in town that allows travellers to book thousands of trips around the world for a set monthly fee. With no nightly rates, taxes, or fees, Inspirato Pass is the world’s first luxury travel subscription, providing pass holders access to more than 60,000 worldwide luxury holiday homes, hotels, resorts and one-of-a-kind ‘Inspirato Only’ experiences – like European cruises, African safaris and marquee sporting events – for US$2500 (about A$3700) per month. Each trip includes Inspirato’s signature fivestar service through dedicated travel specialists, who can help with bookings, planning itineraries and addressing guests’ needs throughout the stay. “Inspirato Pass gives affluent travellers the freedom to book a wider variety of trips and experiences on a more frequent basis, without the burden of nightly rates, all at tremendous value,” explained Brent Handler, Founder and CEO of Inspirato. The membership is aimed at everyone from empty-nesters making the most of their golden years to multi-generational families looking for a week-long overseas trip and business travellers seeking luxury hotel rooms in the world’s best cities. Tens of thousands of available trips in more than 150 locations throughout the USA, Mexico, Central and South America, Europe and Asia are bookable, with the list of available trips refreshing daily. inspiratopass.com

DINE IN HARMONY AT VELAA’S DUET DINNERS

Velaa Private Island Resort in the Maldives will be holding a series of dinners created by famous wine makers and Michelin-starred chefs this November, with the launch of Gastronomy Duets.

Velaa chef Gaushan de Silva will work with culinary wizards Brian Mark Hansen from Søllerød Kro in Denmark, Alain Alders from De Vrienden van Jacob in the Netherlands and Tristan Brandt from Opus V in Germany respectively on the four dinners to take place throughout the month. The resort, which boasts the largest wine cellar in the Maldives with more than 1000 bins, will also welcome much-lauded winemakers from Artémis Domaines, Domaine de la Côte, Alvaro Palacios and Pierre Péters Champagne house. Bottoms up! velaaprivateisland.com

THE HEART OF THE OCEAN

In a world first, Hamilton Island guests can now experience unprecedented access to the iconic Heart Reef lagoon with the launch of ‘Heart Island’. After a decade of development and an investment of more than A$2 million, this is the first time visitors will be able to see the intricacies of the iconic coral formation up close, with only scenic flights previously being offered to the area.

Heart Island is only accessible via helicopter, with the state-of-the-art, split-level pontoon catering to just six guests at a time. After arriving at Heart Island, guests board a futuristic glass-bottom boat, especially designed and customised for Heart Island, before making the short journey to the Heart Reef itself, where snorkelling opportunities await. hamiltonisland.com.au

ONE&ONLY INDULGENCES SHOWCASE CAPE TOWN

One&Only Cape Town has curated a slew of experiences aimed at showcasing the best of South Africa’s port city. With the distinct experiences catering to all interests from health and wellness to gastronomy and over-the-top indulgence, you might have a hard time choosing just one. Our picks?

A masterclass with Nobu Cape Town’s head chef, where you’ll learn how to prepare Nobu’s signature dishes and enjoy sensational sake pairings; and a personal trainer-guided tour of Table Mountain. At the summit, nibble on goodies from a chef-prepared picnic basket as you take in the 360-degree views, or extend your workout with a yoga session overlooking the city. But for a mega-dose of luxury, you’ll want to experience Africa’s Dom Perignon Suite where you’ll relish 48 hours of bubbly bliss across a range of effervescent experiences. Think: Dom Perignon 2006 and oysters on arrival; a seven-course omakase (chef-selected) menu paired with Dom Perignon Blanc P2 1998 at Nobu; a poolside designer daybed, Dom Perignon Rose 2004 and seafood platter for two; plus a 30-minute personal training session, Bulgari perfume and breakfast daily in Reuben’s. Where do we sign up? oneandonlyresorts.com

MERITON SUITES EXPANDS ITS SYDNEY OFFERING

Meriton Suites has opened its fifth apartment hotel in Sydney’s CBD. Meriton Suites Sussex Street is located in the historic warehouse district adjacent to the Darling Quarter Precinct in Darling Harbour, and houses 301 one-, twoand three-bedroom suites across 32 levels. All hotel suites include residential-size gourmet kitchens along with a separate living and dining space with designer furnishings in all bedrooms, internal laundries, bathrooms with luxury KEVIN.MURPHY beauty products and HD TVs with Foxtel.

At the heart of the hotel is a grand lobby with a five-storey void, while the building itself is architecturally designed to frame the views of Darling Harbour and the surrounding city. Sydney’s buzzing dining and entertainment waterside district, Barangaroo, is located a short walk away, as are the retail meccas of Pitt Street and the Queen Victoria Building. meritonsuites.com.au

The increase in the number of Generation Z females choosing to travel alone since 2015, according to Hostelworld.

LT / COOL STUFF

ON OUR RADAR

The Arctic

A destination that was once considered out of reach to travellers, the Arctic is now more visited than ever thanks to the increasing number of cruise lines visiting the polar region. And soon, the Arctic will also get a new addition – a luxury hotel… in the middle of the ocean, in a one-of-a-kind spot to experience the Northern Lights. The unprecedented floating hotel and spa located in Swedish Lapland, Arctic Bath freezes into the ice in the winter, and floats on top of the Lule river in the summer with hotel facilities interconnected by floating walkways. “Not only is it a spectacular new space to stay, but it will offer a really different wellness experience that can’t be had anywhere else on earth,” said Jonathan Cooper, founder of Off the Map Travel. As we would hope for such a vulnerable region, the hotel will adhere to the highest environmental standards, using local materials and leaving minimal to zero impact on the environment. Arctic Bath is now accepting reservations for travel between February 2020 and February 2021. offthemap.travel

EYES ON: IHG

THE HOTEL POWERHOUSE HONES IN ON RESORT MARKET

InterContinental Hotels & Resorts is officially on a roll as it expands its footprint – and reputation – beyond the sleek city hotels the brand has long been known for. In 2019, IHG will launch four ‘immersive’ resorts, with the ANA InterContinental Beppu Resort & Spa in Japan the most recent to open its doors. Located in the emerging destination that is the Oita Prefecture in southwestern Japan, the resort is the region’s first international luxury resort, and offers a unique fusion of traditional hot-spring culture and modern design. “The resort has been designed to embody the tremendously rich nature and history of the city, bringing to life a meaningful connection to the surrounds,” said Stéphane Massarini, General Manager, ANA InterContinental Beppu Resort & Spa. InterContinental Maldives Maamunagau Resort and InterContinental Phuket Resort will open in September. anaicbeppu.com

STEVE HUI , CEO AND FOUNDER OF IFLYFLAT , TAKES A LOOK AT THE CHANGES TO THE QANTAS FREQUENT FLYER PROGRAM AND RATES IT AGAINST THE COMPETITION

IT’S NOT OFTEN AVIATION NEWS IS LAUNCHED in a sports stadium. Yet, I found myself at the Sydney Cricket Ground recently, awaiting a Qantas announcement touted as the biggest overhaul to its frequent flyer program in 32 years. Why the SCG? Because the additional one million reward seats to be made available annually on Qantas and new partner airlines – one of the announced changes – would fill the almost-50,000-seat venue 20 times over.

History suggests that changes to airline rewards programs are rarely good news so I arrived at Moore Park with some trepidation. With nearly 13 million members, the Qantas frequent flyer program is Australia’s largest. That’s a lot of people – many quietly collecting their points like a travel piggy bank, to be used for their next family trip or that bucket-list trip with friends – with a vested interest it Qantas’s news.

Thankfully, there was good news. But, of course, with the good comes the bad.

Among a raft of changes, two are already in play: frequent flyer members now require fewer points for international economy bookings while carrier charges on international economy bookings have decreased by up to 50 per cent. This decrease will also apply to premium bookings from September.

Other major changes to be rolled out from September include: additional premium cabin seats at peak periods; and an increased number of points required for premium economy, business and first class, and for upgrades.

My biggest fear was that Qantas would follow the dynamic pricing methodology currently favoured by Delta, American Airlines and Malaysia Airlines, and soon to be adopted by United. Under dynamic pricing, the points required for any given flight is a moveable feast and can change dramatically from day to day and from route to route. The cost of a flight in cash is a major factor

Major Changes

Discounted carrier charges on international bookings

Fewer points required for international economy bookings

in setting the points value. Demand, the number of seats available, the time of year, and competition from other airlines come into play, too. Regardless, my calculations show dynamic pricing is a poorvalue way of redeeming points.

To pit Qantas’s changes against the competition, the airline has become the most cost-effective (in terms of points) to fly international economy, but it now requires the highest number of points to fly international business and first class. Virgin Velocity requires the fewest points to fly domestic economy. Singapore Airlines’ Krisflyer and Cathay Pacific’s Asia Miles program is the best value for international, business and first class.

Virgin has not responded to the Qantas announcement with any changes to its Velocity rewards program. The airline is likely preoccupied with the sell-down of Affinity Equity Partners’ 35 per cent of Velocity.

Additional premium cabin seats available at peak periods

New Lifetime Platinum status

New Points Club program to reward members who earn points via spending, rather than flying More points required for premium economy, business and first class, and for upgrades

Meanwhile, Emirates has made an announcement of its own, becoming the first major airline to ‘unbundle’ its business class fare. The new fare option, available on selected routes, secures your business-class seat, but sheds some of the standard perks including chauffer service, advanced seat selection and the ability to upgrade. It also excludes lounge access, extra baggage and priority check-in and security, although Gold status travellers can use their membership to reinstate these privileges.

As usual, there is plenty of movement in the world of frequent flyer programs. But, with the typical gap between wholesale changes standing at three to five years, we can settle in to the newlook Qantas program. And rejoice, for now, at the absence of dynamic pricing.

For more information on Steve Hui, visit iflyflat.com.au

SYDNEY TO SANTIAGO

Flight Number: LA 800 / Class: Business / Seat: 1A / Flight time: Approx 15 hrs, incl two-hr stopover in Auckland / Reviewed by: Kelly Allen

Check In

What seemed to be a smooth and uneventful experience was later proven to be quite the opposite: my bag had accidentally been checked through to Peru, a destination I wouldn’t be arriving at until the following day. Luckily, Santiago ground staff were able to locate the bag before it left the airport and I was reunited with it after about 30 minutes. It was a good reminder to always double check the baggage-claim ticket

Lounge

LATAM passengers have access to the Qantas Business Class lounge, which is very nice, though very busy. On the return flight, I enjoy the beautiful two-storey timber, stone and glass LATAM Lounge in Santiago. It’s huge and very stylish with entertainment rooms, quiet sleeping rooms, showers and a conference room. Oddly, there isn’t any hot food, only individual cold plates in a refrigerator and pre-packaged snacks.

Cabin

The premium business cabin on this Dreamliner has a 2-2-2 configuration with 30 seats across 10 rows.

Seat

I had window seat 1A. Despite having someone next to me, I was able to step around to get to the aisle easily enough. I always opt for the window seat for the views, and the descent into Santiago over the Andes was fantastic. Plus, I love the Dreamliner’s large touch-pad windows. Seats are 58-centremetres wide and lay flat to form a 185-centremetre bed. There are a range of storage options including cubbies and a large space under the padded ottoman where I store my daypack. The mattress pad, plush pillow and fluffy white doona guaranteed a very comfortable sleep. There is also a personal reading lamp, in-seat power and USB port, and pull-up privacy screen.

Service

The predominantly male flight attendants are friendly, and it is a nice touch when they thanked us individually for flying with them.

Food

I enjoy the Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Champagne prior to take off and some lovely Chilean and Argentinian wines are available during

meal service. Dinner is good with salad to start followed by a parsnip and apple soup and a main of pappardelle with mussels, shrimp, capers and tomato. Dessert is vanilla flan with caramel sauce. Breakfast is ordered in advance, but my order of eggs and tea never fulfils its destiny. I am asleep when it arrives and had requested not to be disturbed.

Entertainment

More than 100 movies and TV shows and over 1000 music albums are available via the 39-centremetre touch screen. Controls are easy to navigate, and the route map has all of the helpful information. Noise-cancelling headphones are provided. Entertainment is available from start to finish, a nice touch if you are in a long takeoff queue.

Highs

The genuine friendly flight attendants and wonderful fluffy doonas!

Lows

The baggage mix-up. Although it was corrected fairly easily, there was a 30-minute period of worry.

Our Rating ****

The Fine Print Baggage: Three checked bags up to 23kg each plus one piece of cabin baggage up to 16kg and one personal item Loyalty Program: One World Alliance

WiFi: No

Pyjamas: No

Amenities: Stylish black-and-white striped canvas bag featuring L’Occitane products.

Below: Santiago Business Class Lounge; LATAM Business Class

MADELIN TOMELTY FINDS NEW SOUTH WALES’ RENOWNED WATERFRONT PROPERTY CALABASH BAY LODGE TO BE JUST AS SPELLBINDING IN WINTER AS IT IS IN SUMMER

CALABASH BAY LODGE

GOLDEN, 8AM DAYLIGHT STREAMING THROUGH HALF-OPEN

plantation shutters, the echo of a kookaburra singing its larrikin laugh in the distance and a bed that cradles my body so blissfully I never want to peel myself away from it – I could get used to waking up at Calabash Bay Lodge.

This peaceful, waterfront property, just 50-minutes north of Sydney, is no stranger to Luxury Travel Magazine, and even with my eyes closed in a half-asleep state, I can clearly see why. Gloriously secluded at a fork in the Hawkesbury River at Berowra Waters, Calabash Bay Lodge is a rare find of a weekender, where guests get so much more than a place to rest their head.

It is called a lodge, not a holiday house, for myriad reasons, many of which I discover during the 48 hours I spend there. Guests are welcomed with sparkling wine in the fridge; sumptuous, hotel-style ASPAR toiletries in the rooms (which are also found in Business Class on Singapore Air flights); a hammock, egg chair and love seat; a suite of pre-loaded, complimentary new release movies on Apple TV with Sonos sound system; as well as a slew of bookable experiences, such as spa treatments, to choose from. It’s enough to make me want to adhere to a strict lodge-only policy moving forward, and that’s before I even make mention of our arrival.

Calabash Bay Lodge can only be accessed by boat, and there is no underestimating the wow-power of this as we flit over Berowra Creek at an easy four knots in the glorious glow of dusk, at the end of a long work week. The six-seater runabout boat will be our only mode of transport for the weekend, and is ours to use, just as the kayaks, paddle boards and fishing rods are ours to use freely, too.

It’s a particularly windy winter weekend in Sydney, and the weekend of the City to Surf, but at our haven on the Hawkesbury we are completely

protected from the gale – and the bibbed-up crowds. Needless to say, it wasn’t hard to find two other couples to join my partner and me at Calabash, which I am treating as both a nature retreat, and the ultimate test of a property that has long been known as a summer holiday destination. Winter is historically quiet for the house, but it’s beyond me why. It takes each of us all of 10 minutes to sink into a spot in front of the fire on the oversized lounge in the living room, which in itself is a conversation pit worthy of a display home.

We’ve decided to start the weekend with a bang, and have booked a private chef to cook us a three-course feast. We’ve pre-chosen the menu from an extensive list of options, opting for grilled prawns with avocado salsa; barbecued beef with red wine jus, steamed vegetables and duck-fat roasted potatoes; and apple and rhubarb crumble to finish. It doesn’t come cheap at $155 a head, but the food is very tasty – especially the entrée and main – and it’s a deliciously indulgent start to a special weekend.

During the day, we head out exploring Berowra Waters on our runabout, which is a completely novel experience for us city slickers. Yet, this is an everyday occurrence for locals, who skim over the water as frequently as we hop in our cars, jetting off for breakfast at nearby A Chef Secrets cafe or heading to the marina for fish and chips. When we pass a soaring zodiac with a dog standing steady at the helm in a stance that evokes the “King of the World” scene from Titanic, we figure this is nothing out of the ordinary. The cool evenings invite flowing red wine and multiple cheese boards, and hours spent playing Cluedo, trying to figure out if it was Miss Scarlet or Colonel Mustard in the dining room with the candlestick. The lodge invites good old-fashioned fun, but also moments of quiet contemplation, if you can catch a minute alone. On the balcony outside our room on the last morning, I’m like a lazy feline as I let the gentle winter sunlight seep into my bones, warming me from the inside-out. You can’t do this in summer, I think, as I do like a sunflower and move my body to face the sun. Ahead of me I see nothing but the river, and around me hear nothing but the whispering casuarinas and jacarandas. It’s nothing short of glorious, and these nature-fuelled moments are found everywhere, if you come looking for them. I’m certain that Calabash Bay Lodge is an untapped winter escape, but if that means I can come back and stay here as often as I like next winter, I’m not complaining.

Calabash Bay Lodge is a 50-minute drive and 10-minute boat ride north of Sydney. Rates start from $725 per night for a mid-week stay (two-night minimum). calabashbaylodge.com

The Art of Adventure

The Adventure-Cruise Difference Starts Here!

An adventure with the multi-awarded True North Adventure Cruises is not just another expedition cruise! We specifically exclude sea days and feature unparalleled access to stunning coastal environments and, unequalled opportunity to truly experience the destination.

The TRUE NORTH is purpose-built to go where other ships cannot and we explore further in six dedicated adventure boats. Daily activities can include snorkelling, diving, fishing, hiking, scenic tours, picnics, natural history appreciation, cultural events and, most itineraries also feature a ship’s helicopter.

Guest numbers are limited to 36 and an Australian crew of 22 chaperones every experience!

Book now to be part of our 2019 adventures in Indonesia and West Papua!

True North Adventure Cruises

Tel: (+61 8) 9192 1829. Email: cruise @ truenorth.com.au Website: www.truenorth.com.au

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Image courtesy of Charlie Marusiak

BORN

BOE WILD

DANIEL TURNER , DIRECTOR OF ANIMAL WELFARE CONSULTANCY ANIMONDIAL, OFFERS INSIGHT INTO THE COMPLEX WORLD OF WILDLIFE TOURISM

It happened many years ago, but it still breaks my heart. I was working in Spain with a vision to improving the conditions of animals living in captivity, and crossed paths with two beautiful bears. They were in an impossibly small enclosure, confined behind metal bars and with no means to escape the scorching heat. Save a small tub of water, the cage was starkly empty.

As I was taking notes on the situation, a slight breeze blew a leaf into the enclosure. Just a leaf. But to one bear that had previously been sitting lifelessly in the enclosure, the leaf was a lifeline. Almost child-like, he pounced and he played; his curiosity was clear. But as quickly as it wafted into the cage, the leaf escaped, and the bear withdrew into his lifeless state once more.

It was an incredibly emotional experience and it demonstrates that animals in captivity, no matter the species, must be housed in enriched environments. This heart-breaking memory, and an overriding objective to safeguard animals’ welfare, inspires my work as co-founder and director of ANIMONDIAL.

There has been growing talk about animal welfare in tourism in recent years and it is an important conversation to have. Research shows more than half a million captive wild animals worldwide, including elephants, primates, tigers and dolphins, are enduring bad management, or poor living conditions in the name of entertainment. Meanwhile, around 110 million people annually visit animal attractions, either independently or through travel companies. The bad practice must stop and, thankfully, most people agree with that. But how to put a stop to it is not quite as simple.

ANIMONDIAL is a specialist consultancy that works in positive collaboration with travel companies and other stakeholders to better manage tourism’s impact on animals, their natural environment and on local communities. Although some animal activities are no longer acceptable, ANIMONDIAL believes, in most cases, responsible, sustainable and positively impactful alternatives can be found. These alternatives not only protect the animals, but also provide travellers with unique experiences and travel companies with peace of mind that what they are offering is trusted and inspiring. >>

The Elephant in the Room

Elephants provide a strong case study. I have seen first-hand the poor conditions some of these magnificent mammals are subject to. In fact, my very first visit to a so-called ‘elephant camp’ was especially eye-opening.

I had travelled to Thailand to evaluate these popular tourist attractions against animal welfare standards and, having read words such as ‘no riding’, ‘sanctuary’ and ‘rescued elephants’ in promotional materials, I was anticipating a high standard.

In reality, I was way off the mark. The scene was chaotic. The noise of chattering tourists was intense, the elephants –overweight and lethargic – were overwhelmed by large crowds and subject to continuous touching from tourists, not to mention the countless selfies being snapped. The mahouts (traditional elephant handlers) were some distance away, sitting in the shade. It was an accident waiting to happen.

As animal welfare groups and concerned individuals begin to make more noise about unethical tourism practices, elephant camps such as these have been created to try to deflect the criticism. They no longer offer elephant riding, but instead they offer alternative interactions. Good news? Maybe not.

When the Thai government banned logging in 1989, about 2000 elephants and their mahouts were left unemployed. The solution? Logging facilities were transformed into elephant ‘tourist’ camps. It seemed like a positive resolution. The elephants were saved from an uncertain future and the camps were hugely popular, expanding quickly across the country. Now, as calls for a boycott grow louder, we must recognise that captive elephant numbers have increased to about 4700 and, with no viable alternative, we are at risk of hurtling back to square one. For decades, tourism has been the primary driver proliferating animal attractions. Tourism must, therefore, be part of the solution. To walk away now would be irresponsible.

Boycotts can raise awareness, and that’s a good thing, but alternative interactions can be just as damaging. And the potential closure of facilities strips elephants and their mahouts of their home and livelihood.

As a person who feels animals of wild species are better off in the wild, I would welcome this industry to eventually phase out, but we are nowhere near that ideal outcome. In the meantime, we must do our best to find a viable solution. Together with its partners, ANIMONDIAL is committed to delivering a robust education program, adapted to cultural differences, that we hope will encourage facility owners to implement genuine change that is sensitive to the needs of the animals and the communities that rely on them.

Under the Sea

For a look at another highly commercialised segment of the Animal Kingdom, we venture to the world’s oceans. Whales, dolphins and porpoises, collectively known as cetaceans, are housed in zoos and aquaria, or can be viewed in the wild, and attract tens of millions of tourists a year.

Much like captive elephants in tourism, captive cetaceans continue to generate debate. While many experts claim captivity is detrimental to animal welfare, marine parks continue to insist >>

Clockwise from top left: Mahouts Elephant Foundation; Auditing is an important part of the job for Daniel Turner; An in-water captive dolphin interaction. Opposite: A tour guide removes a stingray from its natural environment.

©

Image courtesy of Peter Yuen

©

Image courtesy of Jo-Anne McArthur /We Animals

“Tourist boats have been known to chase marine mammals or encroach on their space for close-up experiences, while feeding, or direct contact with wild cetaceans can cause injury and unnatural behavioural change.”

© Image courtesy of Jo-Anne McArthur /We Animals

“For decades, tourism has been the primary driver proliferating animal attractions. Tourism must, therefore, be part of the solution. To walk away now would be irresponsible.”

their animals are ‘happy’. Regardless, these once-popular animal attractions are falling out of favour, which can place the animals involved in jeopardy.

Around the world, once-performing cetaceans are swimming idly with nowhere else to go. I’ve seen beautiful bottlenose dolphins trapped in dismally tiny pools, eating the paint peeling from the pool wall out of boredom, while some facilities try desperately to relocate the animals. But where to? There are no established sanctuaries to meet the growing global need.

While interest in captive cetaceans is waning, the popularity of cetacean-watching in the wild is on the rise. Sadly, these beautiful creatures can be subjected to large numbers of touristtoting vessels and, unless such activities are controlled, their welfare can be put under threat. Tourist boats have been known to chase marine mammals or encroach on their space for close-up experiences, while feeding, or direct contact with wild cetaceans can cause injury and unnatural behavioural change.

ANIMONDIAL is working with the World Cetacean Alliance (worldcetaceanalliance.org) to help deliver meaningful change. The Alliance has created the Global Best Practice Guidance for Responsible Whale and Dolphin Watching, and through its implementation, we hope to improve viewing practices, safeguard wild cetaceans and create Whale Heritage Sites.

Some Home Truths

Domestic animals can also be caught up in animal tourism. Think carriage rides to explore a city, pack animals used to transport luggage, donkeys ridden to heritage sites, or camel riding in the desert.

From my point of view, it is important to examine the particular circumstances and identify whether the animals’ physical and behavioural needs are being met.

For a donkey carrying a traveller and their luggage up the steep Santorini cliffside, for example, we must consider specifics such as the weight of the load, riding etiquette, equipment used, weather conditions, and whether the animals are provided suitable healthcare and living conditions.

Above: Contact with wild animals is often unsupervised as well as inappropriate. Below: Camels are commonly used for tourist excursions. Opposite: Dog mushing is one of many animal activities that must be regulated.

As travellers, it is crucial we do not accept things at face value. We must consider the wider implications of our actions. So, before taking a ride with a horse or donkey, check its condition to ensure there are no wounds or signs of malnourishment; if visiting an animal sanctuary, ensure it genuinely rescues animals for rehabilitation and care; and try to eat responsibly, recognising that in some countries, endangered species, or even domestic dog or cat could be on the menu!

Much of our work at ANIMONDIAL involves advocating improvements in animal welfare through the adoption of standards, robust evaluation and trusted certification to identify best practice. This kind of approach will also help travellers identify and support ethical practices.

Until then, ANIMONDIAL encourages you to ask your tour operator whether safeguards to protect animal welfare are in place and whether their activities have been reviewed against recognised standards. This not only provides assurance, it also encourages tour operators to adopt best practice and better manage their impact.

The Details

To find out more about ANIMONDIAL, visit animondial.com.

The Good Guys

Running an animal sanctuary is hard work. They are usually run by impassioned people, who constantly strive to improve animal welfare despite limited resources. ANIMONDIAL is proud to work with many responsible experiences, including animal sanctuaries. These include:

Ape Action Africa | Offering volunteer tourists a unique opportunity to care for rescued great apes in Cameroon. apeactionafrica.org

Mahouts Elephant Foundation | An alternative elephant experience viewing captive Asian elephants in their wild environment in Thailand. mahouts.co.uk

Archipelagos Institute of Marine Conservation | Protectors of Aegean marine life and currently creating of the world’s first sanctuary for cetaceans. archipelago.gr/en

For information about responsible whale watching operators: worldcetaceanalliance.org.

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Image courtesy of Jo-Anne McArthur /We Animals

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Image courtesy of Sofi Brambila

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SAMPLING HAYMAN

A 48-HOUR GASTRONOMIC JOURNEY ON HAYMAN ISLAND BY INTERCONTINENTAL

HAYMAN ISLAND BY INTERCONTINENTAL IS BACK , and it’s bringing some serious flavour to your next private island escape. Five food and beverage options are available at the recently opened resort, each with its own distinct cuisine, ambiance and style, ensuring there is something delicious for every mood that strikes, at any time of day. Director of Restaurants and Bars, Joshua Dows, says the resort wants to encourage guests to explore the taste of Hayman by roaming across the resort.

“We take our guests on gastronomic journeys, creating unique destinations, not just ordinary restaurants. Each venue has its own individual identity – a personality of its own – and staying true to the concept for each, we have delivered a dining scene that is on trend. Our founding thought here was to truly challenge our comforts and be completely unexpected.”

And roam, we shall. Here’s what the epicurean journey will look like when you arrive at the idyllic Hayman Island resort for a brief but brilliant weekend. >>

SATURDAY&SUNDAY/ 8AM

Pacific

At the resort’s signature, brasserie-style bar and restaurant, the only thing more impressive than the food is the aquamarine ocean as seen through the oversized floor-to-ceiling windows. In the mornings, Pacific offers one of the best gourmet buffet breakfasts in Australia replete with a juicing station where you can make your own morning potion. Guilt-free indulgence? Yes, please.

SATURDAY/ 5PM

Bar Fifty

Five o’clock means drink o’clock, and there’s no better place to kick off your Saturday night than Bar Fifty. Set in the heart of the resort’s stylish lobby, Bar Fifty is a nod to a Hayman institution that’s been serving up negronis to blissed-out island guests since the 1950s. Order a tipple, sink into a mid-century modern velvet armchair and reminisce about the good old days.

SATURDAY/ 8PM

Amici Trattoria

A holiday isn’t really a holiday without pizza, and thankfully Amici Trattoria’s blazing, wood-fire pizza oven is here to make your foodie dreams come true. This casual Italian eatery has great ambience (with help from the romantic fairy lights) as well as a stellar Australian wine list starring Italian varietals.

SUNDAY/ 8PM

Pacific

It’s back to Pacific for your final dinner on Hayman. Shedding its morning look and changing into a sophisticated a la carte restaurant for the evening, Pacific’s interior furnishings are nothing short of what you’d find in the city’s hottest new watering hole. Pacific is designed as a hub of connectivity. It’s also designed for indulgence so, why not dig in to a delicious flame-grilled tomahawk, and then head out to the oceanfront bar for a cocktail with a contemporary twist.

SUNDAY/ 4PM

1 2 3 4 5 6 7

Grove

Grab a bite from Grove, Hayman’s ingenious boutique/customer service centre/cafe. Perfect for those times when you need a snack or aren’t in the mood to sit down to a formal meal, you can choose a cheeky bag of chips or a more sophisticated, readymade cheese platter and even a bottle of wine, and enjoy it at one of the outdoor tables or back in your room.

SATURDAY/ 12PM

Bam Bam

The resort’s interpretation of the Chin Chins of Melbourne and Sydney, Bam Bam is your go-to for lots of character and heaps of bold, zesty and spicy flavours. Think: duck rice paper rolls and cashew nut chicken accompanied by playful, Asian-inspired cocktails that pack a punch. We love the energy at this lunchtime eatery, which sits next to the family-friendly infinity pool.

SUNDAY/ 12PM

Aqua

With the expansive, iconic Hayman Pool in front of you and the beach behind you, Aqua is the place for a lazy lunch in stylish surrounds. Dig into a refreshing menu of easy-to-share seafood dishes, tropical fruit juices, fresh salad bowls and classic cocktails with the whole family. Don’t forget to stay hydrated in the sun, and fill up your reusable Hayman water bottle from any of the 10 filtered water stations placed around the resort.

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Nature’s Way

EXPLORE FIVE UNIQUE NEW SOUTH WALES PROPERTIES THAT PUT NATURE ON YOUR DOORSTEP

BEACH Lilypad

It doesn’t get much more unique than this. A one-bedroom floating villa has just opened to the public in Sydney’s exclusive Palm Beach… and we do mean in Palm Beach. Previously a members-only venue, Lilypad is located metres off-shore in the ocean, offering complete walk-on, walkoff service.

The design of the unique space, which runs completely off solar power, was created by Chuck Anderson and combines innovative design with traditional craftsmanship and modern luxuries. Given the villa had to have an entirely stable surface that still allowed the structure to drift with the movements of the ocean, Lilypad is a feat of engineering and is worth booking if only to see it with your own eyes.

The luxury factor is nothing to turn your nose up at, either. The villa’s rental fee even includes a private host/concierge; private tender

transfers to and from Lilypad for the duration of the stay; an additional self-drive luxury personal vessel so guests can explore, swim and picnic at local beaches at leisure; on-board breakfast supplied by The Boat House Palm Beach; complimentary on-board wine cellar with bottles of Veuve Clicquot, Cloudy Bay and Cape Mentelle; use of water equipment including paddleboards, fishing rods and floating daybed; and one complimentary meal for two at the iconic Barrenjoey House with private boat transfers, valued at $350.

For those really wanting to kick back in style, you can also purchase extras like seaplane transfers to Rose Bay, on-board massage and beauty treatments and luxury chauffeured vehicle transfers. With all these extras and the gorgeous coastal surrounds, you’ll be positively floating. lilypadpalmbeach.com.au

PALM

BLUE MOUNTAINS

Virgo Bubbletent

If you’ve ever wanted to watch the sun rise without leaving your bed, book a stay at the Virgo Bubbletent. Not only will you bear witness to 360 degrees of Blue Mountains beauty, but you’ll do it in climate-controlled comfort. Beyond the bubble ‘walls’ you’ll find a wood-fired hot tub, telescope, fire pit, outdoor shower and a love swing to share with your better half. You’ll need to take your own food and drink for your stay, including all your drinking water, but with such an idyllic setting, we don’t think anything can burst your bubble – not even a bad pun.

bubbletentaustralia.com

BLUE MOUNTAINS Tent Suite, Spicers Sangoma Retreat

Another unusually beautiful wilderness retreat on the cusp of the Blue Mountains, Spicers Sangoma Retreat offers a range of unusual and beautiful room options, including the gorgeous Tent Suite. With 66-square-metres of space, an overhead chandelier, stunning open-plan bathroom with freestanding tub overlooking the forest canopy, timber flooring and air conditioning, we think this is about as luxurious as a tent can get. The space also showcases a king-size custom-made bed, a wood-burning fireplace, a private deck with sun lounges and a Bose sound system. Better yet, Spicers Sangoma Retreat is all-inclusive, so all gourmet meals and beverages as well as the premium mini-bar, replenished daily, are covered in the nightly rate. With rates starting at $1299 per night, it might be at the top-end of some budgets, but this style of relaxed luxury is hard to put a price on. spicersretreats.com

Arabella Cabn

There are myriad options for choosing a tiny house escape, but none, perhaps, as luxurious or remedial as Arabella Cabn. This cubist beauty sleeps three people comfortably (children under 12 stay for free), and boasts a well-stocked kitchen with gas burners and a coffee machine. Its position on the edge of the Cambewarra Ranges in verdant Kangaroo Valley is picture perfect, and the surrounding 57 hectares is home to abundant wildlife including wombats of all shapes and sizes, families of echidnas, kangaroos, kookaburras, a dam full of native yabbies and frogs, and even a mischievous mimic lyrebird named David. With so many furry friends around, weary workers will feel like they’ve truly escaped the rat race and returned to nature, and for those too burnt out even to tinker with the gas burner for an evening meal, you can pre-order food packages so that the only thing to do is to sit back, relax… and chat to David. cabn.life

KANGAROO VALLEY

JERVIS BAY

Paperbark Camp

Glamping, bubble tents and tiny houses might be all the rage now, but back in the 1990s the very idea of a luxurious Australian camping experience was almost laughable. This didn’t stop Jeremy and Irena Hutchings, though, who wanted to bring the elevated safari experience they had had in Africa in the 1980s, to their home turf. Their goal was to create a bush camping experience with the added comfort of hot showers, contemporary decor and a gastronomic restaurant, and two decades later Paperbark Camp remains one of Australia’s most impressive – and luxurious – glamping experiences.

Just a 2.5-hour drive south of Sydney, Paperbark Camp is positioned just eight minutes from the Maldivian-style beaches of Jervis Bay, making it one of the NSW south coast’s most attractive places to stay. The scenic walking trails nearby and surrounding bush are teeming with wildlife and offer sightings of kangaroos, possums, colourful birdlife, whales and dolphins.

The bush bolthole’s elevated, wood-panelled dining room and communal space, The Gunyah – aboriginal for ‘meeting place’ or ‘place of shelter’ – is the heart and soul of the camp and on sultry days guests can dine outdoors on the verandah for a beautiful Aussie bush experience. Winter escapes have their own charm, too. The Gunyah’s candlelit tables make the space perfect for romantic couples’ weekends, and the comfy lounges in front of a roaring fire create a cosy cocoon amid the treetops.

Paperbark Camp’s restaurant is not only impressive for a glamping eatery, it’s impressive for a restaurant, full stop, and has received numerous awards over the years. On the plate you’ll find exceptional courses like blue swimmer crab, congee, crispy chicken wing and fennel puree; braised Junee lamb neck, baby winter vegetables, white onion puree and minted salsa; and espresso brulee with sour cherries and chocolate hazelnut biscotti.

As for your ‘room’, Paperbark’s raised tents are strategically positioned to create utmost privacy, camouflaged by the surrounding spotted gums and paperbark trees along the banks of Currambene Creek. But the camp doesn’t just take the eco factor seriously. The luxury element is notable, with tents having polished hardwood flooring, double canvas roofs, an outdoor deck with seating and a gorgeous open-air bathroom with a freestanding bathtub and hot shower. The private premium toiletries made with fragrant Australian botanicals elevate the whole experience, and add to a feeling of being truly immersed in the Aussie bush.

The beds are so comfortable it will be hard to get up in the morning, despite the birds’ calls, and don’t be surprised if you find yourself in bushy-tailed company. The resident possums and sugar gliders are as unfazed by humans as they are curious about what’s in your toiletries bag… so make sure you zip up.

paperbarkcamp.com.au

BY LUXURY TRAVEL

Highlights of

RAJASTHAN & VARANASI

This unforgettable journey will put you amid some of India’s most breathtaking scenery and sites.

Rajasthan is one of India’s most visited regions, famous for its rich cultural heritage along with spectacular forts and monuments. You will experience the Taj Mahal both at sunset and sunrise, visit Amber Fort and Hawa Mahal (Palace of Winds), take a rickshaw ride through the narrow lanes of Chadni Chowk, see the oldest and busiest markets in Old Delhi, as well as the City Palace and more.

In Varanasi, the spiritual capital of India, you will visit the deer park in Sarnath and a Hindu university, and take a boat ride on the sacred river Ganges. Throughout the journey, you will stay in luxurious Taj resorts and palaces and enjoy exclusive experiences and traditional Indian meals.

DAY 1 Delhi

On arrival, you will be met and transferred to your hotel by private vehicle. Overnight at the Taj Palace Hotel, Sardar Patel Marg, New Delhi.

DAY 2 Delhi

After breakfast enjoy a private inner-city walking tour conducted by a Trust that works with street children to provide them with a secure and safe environment. You will visit Gurudwara Bangla Sahib, one of the most prominent Sikh houses of worship in Delhi, where lunch is included. You will then visit Old Delhi, where ancient monuments, narrow streets and bustling markets await. A rickshaw ride will take you through the narrow lanes of Chandni Chowk then other places of interest. Overnight in Delhi.

DAY 3 Delhi – Agra

After visiting the fort you will be transferred to your hotel for lunch. This will be followed by a tour of the Taj Mahal, one of the most iconic places in the world, built in the mid-17th century. Overnight accommodation at Taj Hotel & Convention Centre, Agra.

DAY 4 Agra – Jaipur

Enjoy sunrise at the Taj Mahal, before returning to the hotel for breakfast. Visit Fatehpur Sikri then head to Jaipur, popularly known as the ‘Pink City’. Overnight accommodation at Taj Rambagh Palace, Jaipur.

DAY 5 Jaipur

After breakfast you will visit the City Palace, Jantar Mantar (astronomical observatory) and Hawa Mahal (Palace of Winds). After lunch at a local restaurant, you will be taken on a walking tour of the old market areas. Overnight in Jaipur.

DAY 6 Jaipur

After breakfast you will be taken on a two-hour rickshaw ride through the Pink City. In the afternoon you will visit the fabulous 17th-century Amer Fort, by Jeep. The fort is known for its artistic style, blending both Hindu and Rajput elements. Featuring large ramparts and a series of gates and cobbled paths, the fort overlooks the Maota Lake. After visiting the fort you will visit the Anokhi Museum of Hand Printing. Overnight in Jaipur.

DAY 7 Jaipur – Udaipur

After breakfast you will board a flight to Udaipur where, on arrival, you will be transferred to your hotel, the famous Taj Lake Palace. In the evening you will be taken on a private boat ride on Lake Pichola (subject to water levels). Overnight accommodation at Taj Lake Palace, Udaipur.

DAY 8 Udaipur

After breakfast you will visit the City Palace and Crystal Gallery and then be taken on a walking tour of the Old City. In the evening you will be taken to the home of a local family for an interactive cooking demonstration followed by dinner. Overnight in Udaipur.

DAY 9 Udaipur – Delhi

After breakfast you will visit the beautiful Nagda and Eklingji temples. After the tour you will be transferred to your flight to Delhi where, on arrival, you will be transferred to your hotel. Overnight accommodation at Taj Palace Hotel, Sardar Patel Marg, New Delhi.

DAY 10 Delhi – Varanasi

Today you will be transferred to your flight to Varanasi where, on arrival, you will be transferred to your hotel. In the evening you will be taken to the banks of the Ganges where you will board a boat for a slow cruise to see the “aarti” ceremony, which is performed by Hindu priests on the banks of the river every sunset. Overnight accommodation at Brij Rama Palace, Varanasi.

DAY 11 Varanasi

Today you will be taken on an excursion to Sarnath, followed by a visit to the Bharat Kala Bhavan museum. Overnight in Varanasi.

DAY 12 Varanasi

Experience an early morning boat ride on the sacred river Ganges to see the cremation ghats. You will then walk down to Vishwanath Temple, the most sacred temple in Varanasi, to view it from the outside (foreigners’ entry restricted inside the temple). Return to your hotel for breakfast. In the afternoon you will be transferred to your flight to Delhi, and the end of your tour.

NEW HORIZONS

LUXURY CRUISERS ARE IN FOR THE VOYAGE OF A LIFETIME AS NEW AND ESTABLISHED CRUISE LINES LAUNCH MORE BESPOKE VESSELS AND SAIL FURTHER AFIELD THAN EVER BEFORE

Words by SALLY MACMILLAN

What’s happening in the ever-expanding world of cruising? As to be expected in this super-successful travel sector, long-established mainstream companies are pumping out new ships at a rate of knots, but some interesting newcomers are entering the scene. Virgin Voyages is the prime example of an industry disrupter, but how different will Sir Richard Branson’s cruise line really be – and who else is jumping on board the lucrative cruise wave?

We’re seeing classic ocean lines moving into river cruising – and vice versa – and a huge push into the frontiers of luxury expedition cruising. As competition for both millennial and baby-boomer dollars heats up, cruise companies are whetting appetites with the latest food trends, finessing fitness and wellness offerings, and boasting more green credentials than you could poke a paper straw at.

And as discerning travellers look for more destinations where they can escape the madding crowds, cruise-industry experts look into their crystal balls and reveal the next cruise hotspots.

On the Horizon: New Ships, New Lines

The next two or three years promise a bumper crop of luxury ocean, river and expedition ships, in response to demand from a new generation of healthy, wealthy travellers. In the US, a staggering 10,000 people reach retirement age every day; in Australia, more than 15 per cent of the population is aged 65-plus, a figure that is growing rapidly. Many of these baby boomers are already well-travelled and looking for new and evermore sophisticated experiences; high-end cruise lines are busy building ships to fulfil those desires.

Regent Seven Seas Cruises’ Splendor will be the first new ultra-luxe oceangoing ship to set sail, making her maiden voyage from Barcelona to Miami in February 2020. She will be under the command of Captain Serena Melani, the first woman in the cruise industry to helm a new cruise ship right from its launch. When reservations opened in April 2018, the line reported its most successful single booking day in its 26-year history.

The 750-guest Splendor will be a near-identical sister to 2016’s Seven Seas Explorer and is RSSC’s fifth ship. Explorer was billed as “the most luxurious ship ever built”, while Splendor is described by the line as “luxury perfected”. So how will Splendor achieve that?

According to Lisa Pile, RSSC’s VP Sales, Australia and New Zealand, it’s not about duplication. “It’s a constant process of refinement,” she says. “We keep a close eye on design trends, so Splendor’s colour palette is lighter and brighter. There’s more outdoor space and the famous Regent Suite, already the biggest at sea at 412 square metres, will be even more spacious.”

Also launching in February is the first of three ships for a brand-new cruise line: the Ritz-Carlton Yacht Collection. She will host 298 guests in 149 suites, each with a private terrace, and two supersized owner’s suites. The boutique vessel, designed to evoke the feeling of sailing on your own private yacht, will have six dining venues, a marina platform stocked with water-sports toys and a crew-to-passenger ratio of almost one to one –essential for the true luxury cruise experience.

Again, demand for this style of cruising exceeded expectations – by about 300 per cent, says the Ritz-Carlton Yacht Collection’s CEO, Douglas Prothero. “We know that there are more than 400,000 cruisers on the Ritz-Carlton database,” he says. “However, the response from new cruisers is bigger than we thought. Between the brand and the design, it is bringing people into cruise, which is great for the business, great for the industry and great for us.” >>

Quark Expeditions at Base Brown

Clockwise from top left: Miami beach hut; Captain Serena Melani; and Ritz-Carlton Yacht Collection.

“We keep a close eye on design trends, so Splendor’s colour palette is lighter and brighter. There’s more outdoor space and the famous Regent Suite, already the biggest at sea at 412 square metres, will be even more spacious.”

LISA PILE

RSSC’s VP Sales, Australia and New Zealand

Wintergarden lounge, Viking Jupiter

Marking the debut of another new cruise line is the arrival of Virgin Voyages’ hotly anticipated Scarlet Lady in April 2020. Branson’s latest pet project, a sizeable, 2770-sailor vessel (Virgin calls its guests “sailors” rather than passengers) is set to offer exciting, party-focused adults-only voyages (they’re definitely not “cruises”).

Virgin Voyages plans to attract a younger generation of non-cruisers; Scarlet Lady will feature a tattoo parlour, drag-queen shows, nightclubs, live music and RockStar suites, as well as plenty of cool spaces for relaxation, recovery and fitness. Sailors will have 20-plus dining options that are included in the fare and every restaurant will have its own bar. Virgin enlisted a top chef and uber-hip design firms to make the eateries – and everything else on the ship – “fun, experiential environments”.

A more traditional luxury cruise experience awaits guests of Silversea’s upcoming Silver Moon and Silver Dawn, due in autumn 2020 and 2021 respectively. They are sisters to the line’s elegant flagship, the 596-guest Silver Muse; “small-ship intimacy” is one of Silversea’s hallmarks, along with fine dining, all-suite accommodation and butler service for every suite.

Viking Ocean Cruises’ chairman, Torstein Hagen, describes his 930-guest ships as “comfortable” rather than “luxurious”. When he founded the oceangoing arm of the vast Viking river empire he talked about reinventing ocean cruising by putting the focus back on destinations rather than the ship – and it has paid off big time.

Whether you find them comfortable or luxurious, the ships are indisputably stylish, with their Scandi-cool decor, boutique-hotel ambience and, in my experience, the best spa at sea. Viking Jupiter, which launched in February this year, is the line’s sixth ship since 2015; the next one is due in March 2021 and by 2027 there will be 16 in the fleet.

Meanwhile, Cunard, one of the most venerable lines in the business, is taking things a little slower, building its first new ship since 2010, for launch in 2022. Not much is known about the fourth sister to queens

Elizabeth, Victoria and Mary 2, except that she will be bigger – carrying up to 3000 guests. A formidable design team, including Adam D. Tihany (the renowned hotel designer responsible for Seabourn Encore and Ovation’s stunning interiors), has been hired and we can be sure the new Cunarder will share her sisters’ distinctive livery and red funnels.

Last but not least – we could go on for another few years at this rate – Oceania Cruises, which describes itself as “upper premium”, has two 1200-guest Allura-class ships on order, scheduled to arrive in 2022 and 2025. They will be a similar size to Marina and Riviera and will cost about €575 million each, fulfilling the “strong demand for upscale culinary- and destination-focused cruise vacations around the globe”. >>

Seabourn Ovation

Virgin Voyages' Scarlett Lady (above left), to set sail in 2020, will include a Test Kitchen (bottom left) and Razzle Dazzle pizzeria (above).

Rivers of Gold

Developments in luxury river cruising are more leisurely, but there are some notable new additions in the pipeline. Renowned American travel company Tauck, which has been operating river cruises in Europe since 1992, will introduce its first new ship on Portugal’s sought-after Douro next summer. Tauck’s CEO, Dan Mahar, says the Andorinha will carry fewer guests (just 84) than any other vessel operated by a major line on the Douro. Her staff will include a Tauck Cruise Director and three Tauck Director guides, signature personnel who make this line – and its excursions – a standout.

Uniworld’s Super Ship program continues to expand. Having launched the lavishly revamped SS Bon Voyage in France earlier this year, the company will introduce four more Super Ships in 2020. Mekong Jewel, a beautifully appointed, all-suite, 68-guest ship, will start sailing between Ho Chi Minh City and Siem Reap in January. Shortly afterwards, SS Sphinx will make its debut on the Nile. Egyptian artworks, fabrics and hand-carved furnishings will adorn the 42-suite ship, which Uniworld promises will be the “most luxurious on the river”. In March, SS Sao Gabriel will launch on the Douro and the 130-guest SS La Venezia will embark on eight-day cruises through and around Venice, the Po river and three Venetian islands. Currently known as River Countess, the ship infamously smashed by MSC Opera in Venice earlier this year, she will be given the full Super Ship transformation. We can only hope that megaships are banned from Venice’s historic canals by the time SS La Venezia returns.

Boutique small-ship company Aqua Expeditions is building a new ecofriendly vessel to join Aria Amazon on the Peruvian Amazon next July. Aqua Nera will be slightly bigger, with 20 rather than 16 suites, but she will feature similarly stylish interiors, a one-to-one staff-guest ratio and, importantly, cuisine by award-winning Peruvian chef Pedro Miguel Schiaffino. >>

Clockwise from top left: Aria Amazon; Peruvian squirrel monkeys; and alfresco dining on the Mekong Jewel.

SS Bon Voyage Suite

“SS Sphinx will make its debut on the Nile [in 2020]. Egyptian artworks, fabrics and hand-carved furnishings will adorn the 42-suite ship, which Uniworld promises will be the ‘most luxurious on the river’.”

The Nile, Eygpt

“Australian-owned river-cruise line Scenic is heading for the high seas. Its first ‘Discovery Yacht’, the 228-guest Scenic Eclipse, has suffered a series of delays but its maiden voyage from Reykjavik to Quebec City is now on track for August.”

Uummannaq, North Greenland

Aqua Expeditions is one of a handful of companies exploring new cruising grounds – in this case the river-expedition line is going coastal, launching the fully refurbished 30-guest Aqua Blu in the East Indonesian Archipelago this November. Along with luxe amenities such as a plunge pool and spa, she will be equipped with kayaks, stand-up paddleboards, and diving and snorkelling gear. Year-round cruises will explore Raja Ampat, Ambon and the Spice Islands, and Komodo National Park.

Ultra-luxe Crystal Cruises has the most diverse portfolio and it continues to expand. In 2015 it operated two classic ocean ships, Serenity and Symphony; by 2018 it had added five river ships (one of those – Crystal Mozart – has now moved elsewhere) and one yacht, Crystal Esprit. Next to slip out of the shipyard will be the first Crystal Expedition yacht; the 200-guest Crystal Endeavor will make its maiden voyage, from

Tokyo to the wilds of Russia, in August 2020. We can also look forward to the 800-guest Crystal Diamond, the first in a new class of luxury ocean ship, which is scheduled to join Serenity and Symphony in 2022.

Viking River Cruises, which was established in 1997 – 18 years before Viking Ocean Cruises launched Viking Star – is forging ahead as the world’s biggest river cruise line, with six more river ships due on Europe’s rivers in 2020.

Like Viking, Australian-owned river-cruise line Scenic is heading for the high seas. Its first 'Discovery Yacht', the 228-guest Scenic Eclipse, has suffered a series of delays but its maiden voyage from Reykjavik to Quebec City is now on track for August. Scenic Eclipse is one of a new breed of ultra-luxury expedition ships – not only will guests enjoy butler service and fine dining in all corners of the globe, but the ship is equipped with two helicopters and a mini-submarine. >>

On the Rhine with Viking River Cruises

Crystal Endeavor Mudroom

Final Frontier

If you thought there was a lot happening in the world of luxury ocean cruising, take a look at the growth of luxury-expedition cruising. It’s mind-boggling. According to the 2019 Cruise Industry News report, there are more than 40 new expedition ships on order and the market will more than double in capacity between 2019 and 2023.

Who is fuelling the growth in this style of cruising? Sarina Bratton, Asia Pacific chairman of French expedition line PONANT, explains. “When we were operating Orion Expedition Cruises, it became obvious that worldly travellers were looking for something more than the wellworn travel paths. They seek the stimulation of education and immersion in places and cultures untouched by mainstream tourism.

“They have a heightened interest and care for the extraordinary wildlife that we find in remote areas of the world. We can only protect what we know, and that is where luxury expedition cruising has come to the fore.”

PONANT has four 264-guest sister ships and over the past 12 months has taken delivery of the first three of six smaller, 180-guest Explorer-class vessels. By 2021 the company will have a fleet of 12. The sleek, elegant Explorers feature the Blue Eye multi-sensorial underwater lounge, where you sit in vibrating ‘body listening’ sofas while viewing the sub-aquatic world through giant portholes. State-of-the-art technology transmits sounds of the ocean to the lounge, so it’s like being underwater – without getting wet.

As increasing numbers of well-heeled, adventure-minded travellers look for more remote, unspoilt destinations to explore, established luxury lines are expanding their operations into new frontiers. Silversea’s nine ships include four luxury-expedition vessels; the 254-guest Silver Cloud moved into the expedition fleet after undergoing an extensive (and expensive) conversion in 2017. Adam Armstrong, Silversea’s Managing Director, Australia and New Zealand, says, “Our expedition cruising represents around a quarter of Australian bookings, mainly to the Polar regions as well as the Kimberley. Unusual itineraries in the Russian Far East, South America and PNG are also very popular.”

Seabourn, another operator in the ultra-luxe sphere, is building on the success of its Antarctic voyages aboard the ice-strengthened Seabourn Quest and now has two 264-guest expedition ships on order. Seabourn Venture is due in June 2021 and, like Crystal Endeavor and Scenic Eclipse, she will be equipped with custom-built submarines – sorry, no helicopters. What Seabourn Venture will have, in spades, is space. More deck space than any other similar-sized ship, vast suites fitted out with bespoke furniture (even heated cupboards for stashing jackets on coldclimate expeditions) and exquisitely designed public areas.

Since 2002, Sea Dream Yacht Club has coasted along with two highly awarded vessels, SeaDream I and II, but this year company owner, chairman and CEO Atle Brynestad announced that a third one will launch in 2021. SeaDream Innovation will sail in Polar regions as well as places like Japan, Korea, Bali, Fiji, PNG and Australia. “That’s why we call it ‘Global Yachting’,” Brynestad says of the ship’s new motto. “We’ll go all over the world with the same level of luxury service as on SeaDream I and II.”

The Galapagos Archipelago, designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site for its extraordinary biodiversity, has long been on wildlife lovers’ wish lists. Two new ships set sail in the ‘Enchanted Isles’ earlier this year – Ecoventura’s boutique, 20-guest motoryacht MV Theory and Celebrity Cruises’ glamorous, 100-guest Celebrity Flora – and Silversea’s elegant, 100-guest Silver Origin will replace Silver Galapagos next March. >>

PONANT on the shores of Bergen

Horizontal Falls in the Kimberley

Above: Whale spotting with Quark Expeditions; and a Brown Bearded Dragon, Galapagos Archipelago.

“Our expedition cruising represents around a quarter of Australian bookings, mainly to the Polar regions as well as the Kimberley. Unusual itineraries in the Russian Far East, South America and PNG are also very popular.”

ADAM ARMSTRONG Silversea’s Managing Director, Australia and New Zealand

Silversea Explorer, Antarctica

Crystal Endeavor solarium

Sustainability

Ecoventura has been actively involved in environmentally-friendly cruising since its inception in 1991 – long before sustainability became today’s must-have travel credential. “We all live in this world and breathe the same air, the least we can do is try to preserve it for our children and future generations to come,” says company president Santiago Dunn.

The fight against plastic waste, climate change and over-tourism is being waged by every cruise line worth its salt. Across the industry, there are numerous foundations, campaigns and partnerships with international conservation programs, and all the new luxury-expedition ships mentioned previously – and many more that are coming soon – are being built to exacting specifications to ensure minimal impact on the environment.

Norwegian small-ship line Hurtigruten’s newest vessel, the 530-guest Roald Amundsen, is powered by electric hybrid technology, while megaship operator Carnival Corporation has launched one LNG-powered ship (AidaNova) and has 10 more scheduled for delivery by 2025. Highly esteemed expedition company Lindblad, the original pioneer of expedition cruising, recently made its entire operation carbon neutral.

How can eco-conscious cruisers be sure they are sailing with an environmentally reputable cruise line? It’s a tricky question because there’s a lot of greenwash – ridding a ship of single-use plastics is all well and good, but not helpful if it continues to burn dirty fuel or illegally dump waste. The only answer is to undertake diligent research – there are many reports, some wildly conflicting – and ask some hard questions before you make a booking.

Food and Wellness

Fine dining is a given on any ship, but these days cruise lines are taking their offerings to the next level. You’ll find enticing menus created by world-class chefs (Nobuyuki ‘Nobu’ Matsuhisa on Crystal, Jacques Pépin on Oceania, Thomas Keller on Seabourn) and on select cruises, the revered masterchefs conduct demonstrations on board and lead gourmet tours ashore.

Hands-on cooking classes are a big thing. Regent Seven Seas introduced the Culinary Arts Kitchen on Seven Seas Explorer (it will also feature on Splendor), allowing guest to brush up their culinary skills and produce an array of global dishes in a cutting-edge galley. Sister line Oceania Cruises has been offering a similar program on board its two larger ships, Marina and Riviera, for some time.

Recognising a worldwide trend towards healthier, vegetarian and vegan choices, RSSC and Oceania are both expanding their menus to include more than 200 plant-based dishes across their fleets. Delicious new dishes are plucked from a range of cuisines, including Italian, Greek, Middle Eastern, Korean, Thai, Vietnamese, Mexican, Italian and Malaysian.

In case you over-indulge in culinary immersion – or just want to start or maintain a healthy mind-body-soul regime – luxury ships have spas, classes and activities galore. Along with providing more imaginative and active shore excursions for fitness-conscious travellers, cruise lines have well and truly jumped on board the wellness movement sweeping the world.

One notable program is Seabourn’s Spa and Wellness with Dr Andrew Weil. Devised by integrative health expert Weil and available across the fleet, it covers meditation, yoga, seminars on nutrition and sleep, and crystal sound bath healing sessions. Weil travels on a few Wellness Voyages every year and will be on board Seabourn Encore’s ‘Wellness in the South Pacific’ cruise, from Auckland to Sydney, in February 2020. Along with other noted health experts, Weil will present lectures and workshops, and optional Ventures by Seabourn shore tours include activities such as kayaking, hiking and cycling. >>

Regent Seven Seas Culinary Arts Kitchen

Lofoten Islands, Norway

Seabass at Red Ginger, Oceania Cruises

Silk, Crystal Cruises

“I think our ability to open up luxury expedition opportunities in remote areas along the east and west coasts of Africa (Bijagos, Cape Verde, Vanilla Islands, Seychelles, Zanzibar) is exciting. Similarly, to experience such varied cultures through India, Sri Lanka, West Papua, the Solomon Islands and Melanesia opens up a world of comfortable travel with 180 like-minded guests.”

SARINA BRATTON PONANT, Asia Pacific Chairman

Dani tribeswoman,West Papua

Talking about shore excursions, Oceania offers Wellness Tours on select cruises in Europe, South America, Asia and Australia. They range from qi gong in the rainforest to Kandyan dance classes in Colombo and many more. One that sounds particularly intriguing is the Ibusuki volcanic sand bath, followed by a dip in a hot spring, in Kagoshima, Japan.

Where to Next?

Although Cuba has been unceremoniously removed from the top of the list, following the Trump administration’s ban on cruises to the country, industry experts agree Japan is right on trend. “Travellers are going beyond Tokyo and Kyoto,” says Crystal Australasia’s senior VP/managing director, Karen Christensen. “Crystal Endeavor’s ‘Island Explorations’ itinerary will take guests from ancient cities with mountain castles to the breathtaking beaches of the Okinawa islands.”

Christensen adds that another popularity driver is accessibility. “The Northwest and Northeast Passage, for example, are climbing travellers’ buckets lists, especially once they have experienced the thrill of Antarctica.”

Turkey and Egypt are back on luxury cruise itineraries, while Alaska attracts more ships of all types and sizes every year. The Mediterranean remains a firm favourite. As Seabourn’s director of deployment and itinerary planning Tim Littley says, “Nowhere in the world can one find such a variety and density of history, heritage, culture, cuisine and experiences.”

PONANT’s Sarina Bratton says Iceland has become a “hot” destination in the past few years and, closer to home, exploring the Kimberley on a brand-new expedition ship like Le Laperouse has captured the imagination of many Australians.

“I think our ability to open up luxury expedition opportunities in remote areas along the east and west coasts of Africa (Bijagos, Cape Verde, Vanilla Islands, Seychelles, Zanzibar) is exciting. Similarly, to experience such varied cultures through India, Sri Lanka, West Papua, the Solomon Islands and Melanesia opens up a world of comfortable travel with 180 like-minded guests. The hardest thing to do is to choose where next!”

Tokyo's Mount Fuji behind the Chureito Pagoda

Vansittart Bay, Australia

Bass Harbor Lighthouse, Maine

Silver&Gold

A MESMERISING AUTUMNAL PALETTE PROVIDES THE PERFECT BACKDROP FOR AN ALREADY COLOURFUL NORTH AMERICAN CRUISE, WRITES PAMELA WADE

Château Frontenac, Quebec

Atlantic puffins

Acadia National Park

Peggys Cove Lighthouse ‘La Fabuleuse’

Bar Harbor, Maine

Bottomless bubbles in the fridge of our elegant suite on board Silversea’s Silver Whisper : it’s a great start, and then it just gets better. Sliding out of Boston harbour on a golden autumn evening, ahead lies a route that will include luxury, lobster, Alexander Graham Bell, multiple lighthouses, a man on fire, and a shipwreck.

Not of Whisper, of course. This luxury ship, where 382 cossetted guests are looked after by 292 solicitous staff, has all the expertise and equipment necessary to deal with anything the sea might throw at her.

Being on second-name terms with Whisper is, incidentally, the great giveaway on board, marking out those who are Silversea regulars; and there are plenty. Almost half of the passengers have sailed with the line before, one of them aboard Whisper for the second time this year, another clocking up an incredible — and enviable — 749 Silversea days altogether.

What brings them back? Service that’s friendly and unstuffy but includes a butler for every suite, superb surroundings, 10 great restaurants, a small but talented entertainment team, and virtually everything, from WiFi to tips, already included. Plus, like all Silversea ships, Whisper is small enough to be able to visit ports inaccessible to larger vessels, discovering places that are both quirky and uncrowded.

‘Leaf-peeping’, as it’s officially known, is the prime attraction of this route. In September and October, from Boston, all along the New England coast, on the islands in the Gulf of St Lawrence, and along the banks of the great St Lawrence River itself right into Montreal, there is a mind-blowingly vivid and beautiful backdrop of red, orange, yellow and gold leaves — entire hillsides, for mile after mile, glowing in the sun. It’s a simple but intense pleasure that is the crowning glory to what would anyway be a fascinating and picturesque journey.

marked ‘J. Dawson’ — not actually of the character Jack in the movie, but still regularly marked by flowers left by fans.

I, though, head out of town, seduced by pictures of Peggys Cove. It’s every bit as pretty as I was hoping: colourfully-painted wooden houses along a rocky inlet, piles of lobster pots, a welcoming cafe serving hot gingerbread, and a dramatic lighthouse on a headland swirled about with low cloud.

On Cape Breton Island, Sydney shines brightly in the autumn sunshine — but not as brightly as the leaves in the woods we drive through to Baddeck, where I discover that Alexander Graham Bell lived most of his life and, besides inventing the telephone, did valuable work with the deaf and with hydrofoils, amongst other interests.

Cape Breton raises the bar even higher with its vivid autumn foliage on the way to Cape Percé which, against stiff competition, is the most spectacular sight of the cruise: a massive 500-tonne block of sandstone just off the coast of the Gaspé Peninsula. Here a boat trip finds us minke whales, seals and gannets, and afterwards we spot a red fox, trotting calmly across someone’s lawn.

“I, though, head out of town, seduced by pictures of Peggys Cove. It’s every bit as pretty as I was hoping: colourfully-painted wooden houses along a rocky inlet, piles of lobster pots, a welcoming cafe serving hot gingerbread, and a dramatic lighthouse on a headland swirled about with low cloud.”

The place names are just one indication that we are now deep into French Canada, as are the baguettes tucked under elbows as people go home to lunch, the arret (stop) signs on the road, and the familiar redstriped KFC bucket instead labelled PFK, for ‘Poulet Frit Kentucky’.

From here we follow the St Lawrence River to Montreal, stopping to enjoy not only the picturesque charms of old Quebec, but also quaint little towns along the shore, isolated in Canada’s vastness but linked by the river, and full of both character and characters. None of them, though, is so memorable as Saguenay.

In just 10 days, book-ended by the historic cities of Boston, Quebec and Montreal, with all their varied attractions, the cruise takes us to colourful fishing villages perched on craggy rocks, past irresistibly photogenic lighthouses, to harbours bobbing with little fishing boats. At each stop there are excursions offered and activities suggested.

In Bar Harbor I swap into a lobster boat for an introduction to the area’s prime industry from Captain John, resplendent in orange dungarees and a Santa beard. Back in town, I lunch on the seafood in question before taking the chance for a walk along the edge of Arcadia National Park, where a silver sea breaks on round boulders, skeins of geese head south for the winter, squirrels are busy collecting acorns — and a local fishing boat beached on the rocky shore is causing much tutting amongst the locals.

Overnight we enter Canadian waters and in Halifax unexpectedly encounter men in kilts: Nova Scotia means ‘New Scotland’, and they are proud of their heritage here. The Maritime Museum has some fascinating stories to tell: a riveting account of the catastrophic explosion of a munitions ship in the harbour in 1917 and the subsequent fire, but most notably about the town’s role after the nearby sinking of the Titanic, in what started as rescue and sadly became body recovery. Some people visit the Fairview Cemetery to find the grave

Tucked away at the end of a fiord, far beyond the reach of the big ships, it’s a typically charming town of attractive French-style houses. Back from the harbour in an ordinary suburb, though, is an extraordinary thing: a huge purpose-built theatre where, for 30 years, around 200 versatile locals have performed an eye-popping show. It tells the lively history of the town, and no special effect is spared.

Across the stage comes a procession that includes Indians, French aristocrats and colonists, a tank, two cars and a Jeep, cantering horses, a pig, a flock of geese, a cow and a goat, cannon fire, bombs, abseiling soldiers, a boat, flames, a man on fire, and a flood. The show is called La Fabuleuse

Fabulous: it’s the perfect description of this cruise.

The Details

All-inclusive fares for a nine-day voyage from Boston, Massachusetts to Montreal, departing 20 October 2019 on board Silver Wind , start from $5900 per person based on double occupancy in a Vista Suite.

All-inclusive fares for a 10-day voyage from Montreal to New York, departing 27 October 2020 on board Silver Whisper start from $5661 per person based on double occupancy in a Vista Suite and including an early booking discount of 10 per cent.

HIGH TECH O N TH E HIGH SE A S

A SMALL-SHIP ENTHUSIAST, BARRY STONE DIDN’T EXPECT TO BE LURED BY HURTIGRUTEN’S NEW – AND SIZEABLE – MS ROALD AMUNDSEN , BUT A HOST OF ON-BOARD INNOVATIONS PROVED IMPOSSIBLE TO RESIST

I’ve always considered myself a small-expedition-ship person. Ageing expedition ships, actually; the kind that were built in Finland in the 1980s for the Russians that have since been converted to carrying paying guests. Stepping over heavy steel bulkheads, the smell of engine oil maybe wafting up from below decks. I never bothered calculating the carbon footprint such ships might leave, or about the heavy fuels they might be burning. I never considered how much sense it surely makes to go to our fragile polar regions in just one ship with 500 people on it instead of four ships each carrying 125 and likely getting there on the back of old-world technology. And old-world emissions.

Our planet is warming, and nowhere is this change being felt more than in the Arctic. In July this year, 60 per cent of the Greenland ice sheet was found to have significant pools of water on its surface, a melt-rate never seen before.

But solutions are coming. One ship at a time.

I stepped inside Hurtigruten’s brand new MS Roald Amundsen as it lay moored in Longyearbyen harbour in Svalbard, determined not to be seduced. Completed early this year, it has 264 cabins and suites, a passenger capacity of 530 and a soaring atrium with three glass elevators, and the largest LED screen currently at sea – all 114 square metres of it. There’s a swimming pool with two hot tubs, three fabulous restaurants, a spa and wellness centre, a jogging track on the Observation Deck and a sauna that looks out to sea. There’s no shortage of bling to distract you.

The fact it looks like it’d be more comfortable cruising the Mediterranean than down the all-but unpopulated coastline of East Greenland, with its off-shore arcs of heavy sea ice and glacier-fed fjords, is a moot point. Dig a little deeper and you’ll see the Amundsen is much more than just a pretty face. What distracts isn’t the bling, it’s the tech.

The world’s first hybrid-powered polar expedition ship is chock-full of cutting-edge technology, specifically a bank of lithium-ion batteries that augment its four diesel-fuelled generators. This allows the ship to implement ‘peak shaving’ – the transference of electrical power to the generators to reduce the load on its diesel engines. The ability to power down a generator while at sea, or use less engine power while manoeuvring in and out of ports, means fewer pollutants ejected into the atmosphere.

Hurtigruten leads the cruise industry in its approach to sustainability. It was the first to ban single-use plastics, and is pushing for a ban on the use of heavy, dirty fuels throughout the Arctic. The Amundsen ’s engines run on a diesel fuel that is as light as what you put in your car, and it even has a patented wave-piercing bow that can smash its way through metre-thick ice, meaning less time is spent slowing down.

On this trip, however, our route would require improvisation. On Day 3, after two days spent cruising west from Svalbard, broad arcs of sea ice off the East Greenland coast – more than had been seen in years – impeded our progress. Landings were abandoned in the unpopulated wilderness that is Northeast Greenland National Park, at 972,000 square kilometres the largest national park on earth, and prevailing winds were moving the ice in all the wrong directions. >>

Ittoqqortoormiit, Greenland

Kirkjufellsfoss, Snaefellsnes Peninsula

It was the essence of expedition cruising, with intended itineraries abandoned and new ones found. Old trapping stations we hoped to visit were bypassed, as were fjords which looked inviting but if you’re in one and sea ice is blown in behind you, you might struggle to get out.

The Amundsen can turn on a dime, but much time would be lost. It was Ship vs Nature, a game of football with the goalposts always moving. A return of sorts to the vagaries of the Age of Sail.

Sea ice should be welcomed. Polar bears use it to hunt and it is a beguiling thing. It mesmerises with its patterns, reflections and hues. It flattens the ocean and is elemental. We stared at it as you would a campfire, becoming lost in the muted bluey greys of Arctic nights.

“The Science Centre on Deck 6 was my favourite space, a hub of activity with its extensive library, eight polarising microscopes and marine biologists on hand to answer your every question.”

The Science Centre on Deck 6 was my favourite space, a hub of activity with its extensive library, eight polarising microscopes and marine biologists on hand to answer your every question as you peer onto slides containing strands of humpback whale baleen and marine plankton. Castings of walrus and whale skulls, horned puffins, king penguins and much more are everywhere courtesy of Bone Clones, a Los Angeles-based company that started supplying castings to universities in the mid-90s and now partners with Hurtigruten to bring hands-on science to its passengers.

Heading south the ice began to thin and we entered Scoresby Sound, our most hoped-for destination and the world’s largest fjord. We sailed into it flanked by vertical mountains and glaciers too numerous to mention. It was our sixth day, and we’d not seen a single ship.

At the entrance to Scoresby Sound is Ittoqqortoormiit, Greenland’s most isolated settlement founded by Inuits in 1925 and a population of 450. I asked a local how many polar bears come into town. “We had over 200 last year, and a mother and two cubs just yesterday. We mostly shoo them away.”

We saw surprisingly little wildlife: far-off whales, a pod of narwhals, seals and a few musk oxen on a distant hill at Hekla Havn, a small cove in Scoresby Sound where we kayaked for two glorious hours. Polar bears were spotted while at sea, but to avoid causing them stress we kept a respectful distance.

Heading south from Scoresby Sound towards the Icelandic capital Reykjavik, we spent our last full day to its north on Iceland’s Snaefellsnes Peninsula, exploring lava tubes, craters, cinder cones and gnarled volcanic beaches. In Jules Verne’s classic tale Journey to the Centre of the Earth , Snaefellsnes volcano was the doorway to the unseen world of the earth’s core.

But it isn’t just science-fiction that has portals and doorways to other worlds. The Amundsen taught me that.

The Details

Hurtigruten’s MS Roald Amundsen will next embark on a 16-day Alaska and British Columbia – Wilderness, Glaciers and Culture itinerary in May, 2020. Prices start at $7876 per person. Visit hurtigruten.com.au for information on other ships and itineraries.

MS Roald Amundsen Science Center

GOING TO EXTREMES

A NEW PARTNERSHIP BETWEEN TWO OF THE MOST RESPECTED NAMES IN CRUISING INTENDS TO HELP PASSENGERS PUSH THE BOUNDARIES OF TRAVEL AS THEY KNOW IT

When PONANT’s Le Laperouse departs Broome next June, kick starting the Australia’s Iconic Kimberley itinerary, there will be around 184 thrilled passengers on board the luxury yacht. And although the region’s remote yet imposing landscapes aren’t new to her, no one will be more excited to set sail than photographer Michaela Skovranova.

The 11-day voyage, which hugs the unforgettably wild coastline between Broome and Darwin, is one of the highly anticipated cruises created as part of a new partnership between PONANT and National Geographic Expeditions. And Skovranova is part of the guest experience.

In fact, each journey under the joint initiative will be bolstered by a National Geographic photographer, who will engage with guests to help create a truly immersive experience.

Skovranova is the perfect choice for the Kimberley itinerary. The Slovakian-born, Australia-based photographer specialises in nature and underwater photography and has spent much of her career capturing extreme environments. As well as her camera equipment, Skovranova will be armed with a wealth of knowledge and expert advice, which will help passengers see this remarkable destination through a different lens. >>

“In announcing the partnership last year, PONANT described the co-branded cruise catalogue as ‘unique encounters [that go] far beyond the boundaries of mainstream travel’ and Emblematic Antarctica is case in point.”

Le Boréal

Skovranova will be joined on board by a National Geographic expert, another hallmark of the new partnership. The pool of experts includes writers, archaeologists, adventurers, anthropologists and field researches.

Departing on June 7, the Australia’s Iconic Kimberley expedition will take in some of the country’s most spectacular sights, including King Georges River, the dramatic Twin Falls and Collier Bay with its Montgomery Reef. Ancient rock art will be complemented by stories of the dreamtime for a deeply Australian experience.

While the billion-of-years-old Australian landscape leaves you in awe, the limited-capacity Le Laperouse is sure to have a similar effect. With just 92 elegant staterooms and suites, the vessel delivers on PONANT’s trademark refined intimacy. Launched last year, Le Laperouse was the first of PONANT’s Explorer-class ships. Like all of the French cruise line’s ships in this class, it is built for exploration and features a reinforced hull for polar exploration and a fleet of inflatable Zodiac dinghies for outings and shore visits.

As one might expect, the ship is also awash with French flair across its sleek public spaces, which include a state-of-the-art underwater lounge, two restaurants, an outdoor heated pool and a spa and fitness centre.

There is also a theatre for lectures and information sessions hosted by naturalist guides and covering the full gamut of wildlife, history, geopolitics, the great explorers and conservation.

Australia’s Iconic Kimberley is one of 130 expeditions to take place across the next four years under the PONANT/National Geographic partnership. Another is Emblematic Antarctica, an 11-day polar expedition cruise that will leave passengers delightfully stunned.

In announcing the partnership last year, PONANT described the co-branded cruise catalogue as “unique encounters [that go] far beyond the boundaries of mainstream travel” and Emblematic Antarctica is case in point.

Departing and returning to Ushuaia, Argentina, Le Boréal will venture to the heart of the Antarctic Peninsula and the Weddell Sea, via the mythical Drake Passage, before reaching the White Continent.

This otherworldly destination, which was unexplored until the 19th century, presents wildlife encounters most people will only ever dream of. Humpback whales, seals, seabirds, and gentoo, Adelie and chinstrap penguins are likely sightings while emperor penguins could very well make a guest appearance.

Just as inspiring as the fauna, the Antarctic landscapes will leave you breathless with icebergs, ice floe, snow-covered mountains and ancient glaciers simply part of the furniture.

Le Boréal features 132 staterooms and suites, providing for a capacity of 264 passengers. With a 136-strong crew, service is part of the luxury on board this and any ship bearing the famous PONANT name.

Prepare yourself for the journey of a lifetime with a pre-cruise night in Buenos Aires, Argentina’s charismatic capital.

Emblematic Antarctica’s debut, departing 26 February 2020, is already sold out. There is a waitlist. Other departure dates are 25 January and 20 February, 2021.

For more information, visit au.ponant.com/cruises.

Clockwise from top left: Owner’s Suite, La Laperouse; Adelie penguin; Observatory room, La Laperouse.

500

– YEARS – 1519 2019

LEONARDO DA VINCI

From painter to inventor, the universally recognised Italian genius, Leonardo da Vinci, will be celebrated throughout Italy in 2019, with a rich program of multidisciplinary events on the occasion of the 500th anniversary of his death.

For further information and to download the entire program:

Visit: italia.it

You simply cannot make a wrong turn in Italy. Europe’s celebrated boot is a veritable trove of striking landscapes, cultural riches and gastronomic delights. And visitors are spoilt for choice with treasures scattered right throughout the star-studded destination.

Each of Italy’s cities and towns fiercely guard a distinct character and charm, with citizens taking special pride in local history, art, commerce, food and life. This makes for a population of passionate hosts. You are not a tourist in Italy. You are a friend.

They say all roads lead to Rome and that’s a good thing because the Eternal City, named for its significance to the history of mankind, isn’t a place you want to miss. Rome, of course, has been the centre of Christianity since Saint Peter first established the Christian Church. And before that, with the establishment of the Roman Empire, it was the capital of the western world. More than 2000 years of history are crowded into its maze of alleys, streets and squares from ancient catacombs to 17th-century palaces, 15th-century churches, and 20th-century monuments.

Notwithstanding Rome’s significance, each of Italy’s chief cities are important for their history; for the fame and wealth of their monuments and museums; for abundant natural beauties; and for the intensity of their social and economic life.

Sprawling Milan is the financial, banking, fashion and design capital of Italy and an art and culture centre. Turin, at the foot of the Alps, is outstanding for automotive manufacturing and baroque architecture. Genoa, birthplace of Columbus, has been Italy’s chief seaport since Roman times. Venice floats dream-like on canals and lagoons. Trieste is a bustling and attractive seaport. Trento is a historic old city that has had many battles fought for it. Bologna, centre of wealth, learning and art, is famous for its university and cuisine. Florence, ‘the cradle of the Renaissance’, is an art centre to rival any in the world. Ancona, capital of the Adriatic region of the Marche, is a beautifully located seaside resort city. Perugia, hilltop queen of the Tiber plain, is the headquarters of the University for Foreigners, founded in the 13th century. L’Aquila is a mountain centre in the Apennines. Naples, on its justly famous blue bay, is the great city of the south. Bari, where the bones of Saint Nicholas lie, is a modern city surrounding a tiny medieval town. Palermo, capital of Sicily, merges Norman and Arab history and culture. Cagliari, chief city of Sardinia, bears the stamp of a long and varied history under Romans, Carthaginians, Spanish and French. La dolce vita, indeed.

Useful information

Form of government

At the end of World War II, Italy became a Republic with a parliamentary form of Government. The President, who is the head of state, serves a seven-year term in office and may be re-elected. Italy is divided into 20 Regions, of which 15 have an ordinary statute (a statute approved by parliament) and the other five –Valle d’Aosta, Trentino-Alto Adige, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Sicily and Sardinia – a special statute approved by a constitutional law.

Visa requirements

Visitors travelling on a valid Australian and New Zealand passport are allowed to enter Italy without a visa for tourism for a maximum period of 90 days. For further enquiries on other types of visas, please contact the Visa Office at the Italian Embassy/Consulate in your city.

Time zone

Central European time zone (CET)

Currency

Euro (€)

Vaccination & water

No vaccinations are required. Tap water is safe to drink. Water from drinking fountains is safe unless signage indicates otherwise.

Languages

The official language is Italian. However, there are many different dialects, which vary considerably from region to region. In some areas they are considered separate languages. German is also spoken in the north close to the border with Switerland and Austria. French is spoken close to the border with France.

Health & insurance

The standard of medical facilities in Italy’s major cities is high, but may be limited in regional areas. Private doctors, and specialist and diagnostic services require up-front payment. Italy and Australia are signatories to a Reciprocal Health Care Agreement, which covers travellers for up to six months from the date of arrival in Italy. The Reciprocal Health Care Agreement doesn’t replace the need for travel insurance. Visit medicare.com.au for more information. New Zealand does not have a reciprocal healthcare agreement with Italy.

Best time to travel

Spring (March-May)

Spring comes early in Italy and it’s the ideal time for holidays in locations such as Florence, the Gulf of Naples, the Sorrento peninsula, the Aeolian Island, Sicily and Rome.

Summer (June-August)

There are numerous beach resorts along the Ligurian and Adriatic Rivieras, and magnificent beaches on the Tyrrhenian, Adriatic and Ionian shores, and in Sardinia. At this time of year, vacations in the mountains are particularly attractive at Alpine resorts such as Ortisei, Cervinia, Cortina d’Ampezzo and in the Apennines at Abetone (Tuscany), Roccaraso (Abruzzo), Sila (Calabria) or on Mount Etna in Sicily.

Autumn (September-November)

Autumn is particularly enjoyable in Merano and Bressanone in the Dolomites, on the lakes of Lombardy, in Rome, Apulia, on Italy’s beautiful islands, and for visiting Italy’s many spas.

Winter (December-February)

Winter is, of course, the winter sports season. Sports centres can be found not only in the Alps but also in many other parts of Italy such as the central Apennines, on the Aspromonte in Calabria, and in Sicily. Winters are delightfully mild on the Ligurian and Neapolitan coasts and in Sicily. This is also the best time to visit the art cities and avoid the crowds.

Venice

Milan Cathedral Frasassi caves, Ancona

Useful Phrases

Practice using these common Italian expressions:

Buongiorno! (bwohn-johr-noh) / Ciao! (chou) Good morning / Hello! and Goodbye!

Parla inglese? (pahr-lah een-gleh-zeh)

Do you speak English?

Quanto viene? (kwahn-toh vyeh-neh)

How much does it come to?

Sì (see) / No (noh) / Mi scusi (mee skooh-zee)

Yes / No / Excuse me (formal)

Dov’è la stazione? (doh-veh lah stah-tsyoh-neh)

Where is the station?

Per favore (pehr fah-voh-reh) / Grazie (grah-tsee-eh)

Please / Thank you

Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, Florence

EXPLORE

Art & culture

The great artistic legacy of Italy, unequalled anywhere in the world, is not only distributed throughout Italy’s major cities and their famous museums. In fact, there is no Italian city, however modest, that does not contain and cherish some share of this wealth of art. Tuscany alone possesses more artistic treasures than the whole of Spain, which is the second country in the world for cultural heritage. There are more than 3600 museums, art galleries and archaeological sites across Italy. Some of the most famous include the Uffizi, the Accademia Gallery and the Pitti Palace, located in Florence; the Accademia delle Belle Arti in Venice; and Palazzo e Pinacoteca Brera and Santa Maria delle Grazie in Milan. An Italian streetscape, meanwhile, is a museum in its own right.

Italy also brims with magnificent architectural achievements, which can be found in all corners of the country, from Rome’s famous Colosseum and St Mark’s Basilica in Venice to the striking Milan Cathedral and the Tower of Pisa.

Land & sea

Dramatic peaks drop towards crystalline seas, sparkling lakes meet enchanting villages, and such vistas are simply par for the course in Italy. From north to south, beautiful and evocative mountains make for spectacular views and a holiday full of adventure, fun or relaxation…or all of the above.

Italy’s coastline measures 7600 kilometres along which rocky, wooded cliffs are indented by an infinite variety of beaches and bays. To the west lies the Ponente, which includes famous seaside resorts like San Remo, Alassio and Varazze. The eastern Riviera is famous for the towns of Nervi, Portofino, Santa Margherita, Rapallo and Sestri Levante.

Italy’s three largest lakes are Maggiore, Como and Garda. These, along with the smaller lakes of Lugano, Iseo and Idro, make up a second Riviera of resorts with fine hotels and villas providing a busy season of swimming, sailing, golf and tennis from early spring to late autumn. Jewel-like minor lakes scattered among the valleys of the Alps include Caldonazzo, Molveno, Levico, Carezza, Misurina and Santa Croce while boating, swimming and fishing are specialties of the lakes in central and southern Italy.

Village life

Dotted among the natural beauty, the village is a symbol of Italian culture with artistic and architectural heritage, filled with tradition, and gastronomic treasures. Commonly known as ‘borgo’ or hamlet and dating back to the Renaissance or Medieval ages, villages are usually built around a castle or palace and surrounded by walls, making them both historically and visually appealing. There are hundreds of hamlets spread across Italy. They are welcoming places that offer a unique, authentic Italian experience. It’s not uncommon to stumble upon festivals, exhibitions, fetes, conferences, and concerts that highlight the cultural, historical, and artistic heritage, involving residents, schools, and local artists. To experience the essence of Italy, a visit to a local village should be not be missed.

Foodie delights

Italian is one of the world’s most renowned cuisines. Characterised by its simplicity, Italian food is a celebration of local history and culture, and it is enjoyed with passion and intention. Pizza and pasta are the country’s most famous culinary exports, but there’s nothing quite like the home-soil version, where the freshest ingredients are prepared to perfection. And if you’re still hungry (you won’t be), dessert will never disappoint: think creamy gelato and fresh cannoli. And limoncello to finish? Don’t mind if I do.

You’ll find some of the world’s best restaurants in Italy, but expect to be just as impressed by the mouth-watering fare at the casual trattoria down the street. Buon appetito!

Tuscan landscape Tower of Pisa

Piazza Navona, Rome

Getting around

Rail passes & tickets

The Silver Card (Carta d’Argento) with Railplus discount is for customers over 60 years and costs €30 (FREE for customers of 75 years and over). You must present a valid ID or passport. For more information, visit: trenitalia.com

Drivers licence holders

Option one: Obtain an International Driving Permit (IDP) An IDP is proof that you hold a valid licence from your home country at the date of issue. Prices range from about $20-$60. Contact the local IDP authority in your state.

Option two: Obtain a valid translation into Italian of your drivers licence from an accredited translator The translation must be then accompanied by a valid Australian or New Zealand drivers license. To obtain further information on accredited translators, please contact your local Italian Consulate or Embassy.

Piazza San Marco, Venice

Italy’s 20 Regions

It may be the smallest region in Italy, but Aosta Valley packs a sizeable punch as home to the highest peaks in the Alps: Cervino, Monte Rosa, Gran Paradiso and the king of them all, Mont Blanc. At 4810 metres high, Mont Blanc is the tallest mountain in Europe and is a world-famous destination for anyone who loves skiing, trekking, snowboarding or ice skating. As well as a wealth of natural attractions, cultural and traditional treasures abound. loveda.it/turismo

As dramatic as it is beautiful, Piedmont is a grand and mountainous land. It is surrounded on three sides by the Alps, including the highest peaks and largest glaciers in Italy. Yet, nature is only one of the many attractions. Explore the rich history, remarkable heritage and slow food of the region’s many stunning provinces including Novara, Alessandria and Turin, Italy’s first capital. visitpiemonte.com

In north-west Italy, bordering France, Liguria is a picture-perfect sliver of the country’s celebrated coastline. Impressive mountains and lush rolling hills overlook the Ligurian Sea while the characteristic rocky coasts are interrupted by small and colourful coves. Highlights of this multi-faceted region include the intriguing capital Genoa and the UNESCOlisted Cinque Terre, Porto Venere, and the islands of Palmaria, Tino and Tinetto. Those who visit will hardly forget the charm and atmosphere. turismoinliguria.it

Lombardy. The region’s mountains, plains and grand lakes form the perfect backdrop for a holiday filled with adventure, discovery or relaxation. In Mantua, discover the charm of Sabbioneta, the defining ‘ideal city’ of the Italian Renaissance.

For architectural enthusiasts, Milan’s Teatro alla Scala (opera house) and the nearby Duomo di Milano (cathedral) are masterpieces while nature lover will enjoy the spoils on offer at stunning Lake Garda. in-lombardia.it

Stretching from the Dolomites to the Adriatic Sea, Veneto is a glorious patchwork of scenery. Amid the diversity, its most famous landscape is arguably the Venetian lagoon and on this spot stands perhaps the world’s most unique city – Venice. With its characteristic canals peppered with gondolas, the region’s capital is visited by millions of tourists each year, but it is just the start of Veneto’s offering. From the Dolomites, dipped in the crimson shades of the sunset, to the eastern shore of Lake Garda and surrounding communes Peschiera del Garda and Torri del Benaco, there is no end to Verona’s beauty. veneto.eu

Trentino Alto Adige is situated in the very north of Italy, bordering Austria and Switzerland, and is best known for the beauty of its peaks. This setting encloses an extraordinary variety of landscapes: magnificent snow-capped mountains towering over beguiling woods, wide valleys, streams and lakes; the enchanting play of light between the spires of the Dolomites; and quaint Italian villages with soaring bell towers. Moreover, this region is the keeper of incredible artistic treasures, monuments and architectural works. visittrentino.it/sudetirol.info

Located in Italy’s northeast, bordering Slovenia and Austria and overlooking the Adriatic Sea, Friuli Venezia Giulia, like its neighbours, boasts myriad landscapes surrounded by impressive mountain ranges. Trieste, the region’s capital, conceals innumerable beauties. Old cafes and neoclassical buildings line the Grand Canal while various monuments reveal the fascinating past of this central European city. Meanwhile, cosmopolitan Gorizia, charming Udine and picturesque Pordenone are also provinces not to be missed. turismofvg.it

Emilia Romagna is a feast for both the eyes and the spirit. The contrast of mountains and sea offers visitors breathtaking views, and the mix of earthy colours, tempting aromas and fresh ocean air punctuate this beauty. The region is also a hotbed for music and art, which is appreciated internationally, while the cuisine is renowned, and not only in the provinces of Bologna, Parma, and Reggio Emilia. emiliaromagnaturismo.it

Central

Heavenly landscapes, artistic heritage and worldrenowned cities make Tuscany an unquestioned protagonist of international tourism. The most typical sceneries of the region are those that merge the beauty of nature with the millenary work of man. The charm of Florence is evident along the Arno River, on the picturesque Ponte Vecchio, and in the workshops of artisans that liven up the lanes of the old town. Other extraordinary destinations include: Pisa, famous for its leaning tower; San Gimignano, the city of towers; and the walled city of Lucca. visittuscany.com

Ever-changing, untouched landscapes in the green of winding valleys make Umbria a region that will never fail to amaze. The charm of Umbria is derived from its fusion of art, nature, peace and calm, and its various villages that present as genuine masterpieces. Medieval towns such as Assisi, Gubbio and Spoleto are a showcase of historical and artistic heritage. umbriatourism.it

Surprising and wonderfully diverse, The Marches shows off its beauty through cliffs and caves overlooking unforgettable beaches, hills steeped in history, and rich traditions and cultures, all set against a backdrop of mountains. The Marches protects the natural environment through its national and regional nature reserves while the Monti Sibillini and Monti della Laga National Parks’ scenery and trekking offerings are peerless. turismo.marche.it

Lazio is the cradle of occidental civilization and Christian culture, of lakes and legends, of thermal spas and history, of ancient roads and verdant hills. This region has different yet complementary features, unblemished scenery and spectacular horizons. Lazio is home to the Italian capital of Rome, a sprawling and globally influential city. visitlazio.com

Nature, history, art, age-old traditions and good food are the treasures of the still largelyundiscovered region of Molise . The many nature reserves protect the vegetable and animal species representative of this area. The region’s two provinces, Campobasso and Isernia, both deliver on history, scenery and culture while sandy beaches surrounded by Mediterranean vegetation will surely delight. moliseturismo.eu

Puglia , a charming region that can be visited year-round, is suspended among nature, history, tradition, tastes and spirituality. Apulia, the spur of the Italian ‘boot’, is an enchanting region that spreads lengthwise along the sea and boasts marvellous beaches from the sandy Torre dell’Orso and Porto Cesario, to the rocky Riviera of Otranto and Santa Maria di Leuca. The region is famous for the Trulli houses of Alberobello as well as the splendour of Lecce and baroque Bari. viaggiareinpuglia.it

South Islands

Mild climate, coastal beauty, rich art and history, and a love of food make Campania the fascinating territory that it is. The journey begins with the sea, the region’s uncontested queen with its intense colours, coasts and coves. Flourishing Mediterranean vegetation alternates with small, charming towns, which narrate the history and traditions of the region. And who can forget Naples, Pompeii, Sorrento and the picturesque towns of the Amalfi Coast? incampania.com

One does not stumble across Basilicata accidentally, but chooses to visit in search of a new experience, plunging into places where silence, colours, scents and flavours remove visitors from the frenzy of modern life. Small and charming villages dot the mountainous region, some at altitudes as high as 1000 metres, where pure air, genuine flavours and the beauty of nature combine with history to satisfy every curiosity. basilicataturistica.it

Abruzzo is located in central Italy and stretches from the heart of the Apennines to the Adriatic Sea, on a mostly mountainous and wild terrain. The route that spans from the Gran Sasso down to the sea crosses territories rich in history, traditions, and never ceases to amaze. Thanks to its varied landscape, Abruzzo offers a number of exciting and surprising holiday options. abruzzoturismo.it

Located in Italy’s extreme south, Calabria’s warm climate make it a dream destination at any time of year. The beautiful coastline, wild natural surrounds, divine local flavours, and the vestiges of its ancient origins all add to the appeal. The National Parks, which cover most of inland Calabria, are a thrill for nature lovers. turiscalabria.it

A voyage over an emerald sea, past characteristic coves and beaches of snowwhite sand… this is Sardinia , an island that strikes its visitors with natural contrasts. The sea reigns over this region with its colours that migrate into coves, along coasts, and towards the beaches and popular resorts. An example is the Costa Smeralda (Emerald Coast), with Porto Cervo set as its gemstone, which unites the history and culture of ancient traditions with a joyful and colourful nightlife. sardegnaturismo.it

Sicily is one of the pearls of Southern Italy and can be experienced and enjoyed through a lens of nature, history and tradition. Experience the crystal-clear waters of San Vito lo Capo, Mondello, Cefalù, Marina di Ragusa, Taormina, the Aeolian Islands, Pantelleria, Lampedusa, and Ustica – just some of the many places where the sea reigns supreme. visitsicily.info

For more information on the 20 regions of Italy, visit: italia.it/discover-italy

Travel ideas

Close to nature

Immerse yourself in Italy’s rough and wild environment and you’ll uncover innumerable treasures, and maybe a few well-kept secrets, too. Italy’s lush and diversified environment is best illustrated in its wildlife parks, an ideal setting for those keen to get amongst nature, discover Italy’s flora and fauna, visit its sunny islands and be surrounded by the typical Mediterranean landscape. There are many national parks well worth exploring: the Gran Paradiso, Circeo, Stelvio, Dolomiti Bellunesi, Gran Sasso and Monti della Laga, Cilento and Vallo di Diano, and Gargano National Parks; the parks of Calabria and Aspromonte; not to mention the Maddalena and Tuscan Archipelagos, the Vesuvius, the Cinque Terre National Parks, and many other protected areas, nature reserves, and marine parks.

Sports & adventure

Italy offers endless opportunities for those seeking a holiday dedicated to physical activity – the breathtaking backdrop is an added bonus. Italy’s countless marinas and ports, and various tourist organisations offer opportunities to indulge in water sports, while mountain lovers are well and truly catered for with peaks piercing the skyline right across the Italian landscape. During the winter, those mountains become a powder-lover’s paradise. Visitors are invited to experience a wide array of cultural and outdoor activities each season: skiing, alpine skiing, snowboarding, trekking and Nordic walking, mountain biking, ice skating, swimming, tennis, horseback riding… the list goes on. Whatever the season, whatever the passion, Italy is the place for a sports-related adventure beyond compare!

For further information, please visit:

FEDERVELA - The Italian Sailing Association federvela.it The Italian Federation for Fishing and Underwater Sports fipsas.it Italian Federation for Sport and Orienteering fiso.it Italian National Olympic Committee coni.it National Italian Paralympic Committee comitatoparalimpico.it Italian Equestrian Federation fise.it

Health & wellness

Feeling good in Italy is easy. The restorative powers of mineral waters and mud baths that bubble up from Italian springs have been around since Roman times. Italy boasts the largest number of thermal spa centres in the world and many have become fashionable resort centres, with excellent hotels, casinos, golf courses and theatres.

Throughout the country, visitors can experience a unique holiday centred on general wellbeing. There are ancient baths that have remained intact for centuries and take visitors back in time, offering a primitive appeal, with their natural saunas, hidden caves surrounded by vegetation, and hot steam with a pleasantly ferrous scent – excellent for reinvigorating the body and treating the skin. Italy has various world-famous thermal spas: Saturnia, Montecatini, San Gimignano, Abano, Salsomaggiore and Ischia, to name just a few. Special consideration should be given to the wellness centres in Trentino Alto Adige, Umbria and Tuscany, where innovative treatments provide guests with a holiday dedicated to physical wellbeing and relaxation.

Business & study

Italy is the ideal destination for business tourism with excellent infrastructure set among inspiring landscapes. Surrounded by rich layers of culture and history, delegates will be challenged and motivated by their Italian locale while high-quality infrastructure, from airports and hotels to event facilities, help deliver a seamless experience. Cities both small and large are equipped to host international fairs, congresses, meetings and conventions, while students are equally supported. Every year, Italian Universities welcome thousands of students from all over the world, organising courses at various levels and encouraging participants to learn the language or explore the vast, fascinating world of Italian art and culture.

Vernazza

Positano Saturnia

Tourist cards and Apps

Thanks to independent online ticket booking and purchasing services for visiting the major and most popular Italian culture locations, you can access the entire national artistic system, and choose products best suited to your needs directly from your smartphone or tablet.

From the Colosseum to the Uffizi Gallery, from Pompeii to Leonardo’s Last Supper, from the Savoy Residences to the Galleria dell’ Accademia in Venice, enjoying the Italian cultural heritage has never been easier.

In order to access the many online booking facilities, visit: italia.it/useful-info

Download the OMNIA Vatican and Rome Card This sightseeing package allows card holders FREE entry to top atractions and Fast Track Entry - saving up to four hours! romeandvaticanpass.com

Santa Maddalena village, Val di Funes

Useful info

Embassies

Embassy of Italy - Australia

12 Grey St, Deakin, ACT 2600

P: (+61) 2 6273 3333 E: ambasciata.canberra@esteri.it

W: ambcanberra.esteri.it

Embassy of Italy - New Zealand

24-38 Grant Rd, Thordon, Wellington 6011

P: (+64) 4 4735 399 E: ambasciata.wellington@esteri.it

W: ambwellington.esteri.it

Consulates

General Consulate of Italy - Sydney

19/44 Market Street, Sydney NSW 2000

P: (+61) 2 9392 7900

E: info.sydney@esteri.it

W: conssydney.esteri.it

General Consulate of Italy - Melbourne

1/509 St. Kilda Road, Melbourne VIC 3004

P: (+61) 3 9867 5744

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8/199 George Street, Brisbane QLD 4000

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215 Port Road, Hindmarsh, South Australia 5007

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Level 2/192 Hay Street, West Perth WA 6005

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Trade Agency

Italian Trade Agency - Sydney

19/44 Market Street, Sydney NSW 2000

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Save the date

January

Celebration of the Epiphany

January 6th | Public holiday

The Pope will lead a Mass in St Peter’s Basilica as the country celebrates the ‘Feast of the Epiphany’.

February/March

Almond Blossom Festival

First half of February | Agrigento | Sicily

First half of February, folk festival of song, dance, costumes and fireworks.

Venice Carnival

February/March | Venice | Venento

A masquerade celebration with music, mimes and fireworks in the streets and squares.

Carnival in Viareggio

February/March | Viareggio | Tuscany

Highlight of the carnival festival is the procession of spectacular and colourful floats.

Battle of the Oranges

February/March | Ivrea | Piedmont

Involves thousands of townspeople, divided into nine teams, who throw oranges at each other.

April

Unification of Italy Public

Procession of the Mysteries

Good Friday | Trapani | Sicily

20 sculptures representing Christ are carried along the main streets.

Explosion of the Cart

Easter Sunday | Florence | Tuscany

A pyramid of fireworks set off by a mechanical dove from the altar in the cathedral square during mass.

Celebration of the Holy Week

Easter Week | Assisi | Umbria

Calendimaggio, celebration of spring with flamboyant costumed parades, jousting and other medieval fun.

May

Festival of St. Efiso

May 1st - 4th | Cagliari | Sardinia

One of the most colourful processions as pilgrims follow a statue of the saint on foot and horseback.

Palio-San Secondo

May 2nd | Asti | Piedmont

A 700-year-old ceremony of medieval origin that culminates with a bareback horse race.

Sagra Di San Nicola

May 7th | Bari | Apulia

When the Saint is returned to his Basilica the bells will ring out and the celebrations start.

Race of the Candles

May 15th | Gubbio | Umbria

A procession of tall shrines are raced by teams to the church on top of Mount Igino.

Sardinian Ride

Last Sunday in May | Sassari | Sardinia

A traditional procession of more than 3,000 people in Sardinian costumes.

Palio of the Archers

Last Sunday in May | Gubbio | Umbria

An archery competition in which the cities of Gubbio and San Sepolcro compete in the main square.

June

The Battle of the Bridge

First Sunday in June | Pisa | Tuscany

An iron cart is set up in the centre of the bridge with the aim to conquer the enemy’s side.

The Lily Festival

The Sunday following June 22nd | Nola | Campania

This week-long festival honours San Paolino, the town’s patron saint, in the towns streets.

Historic Soccer Match

June 24 - 28th | Florence | Tuscany

Revival of a historic 16th-century football and rugby match in medieval costume.

July

Festa De’Noantri

July 19 - 26th | Rome | Lazio

Folklore festival of Old Rome in Trastevere, including a colourful procession for the Vergine del Carmine.

August

Anniversary of the Republic Public holiday Ferragasto Public

Joust of the Quintana

First Sunday in August | Ascoli Piceno | The Marches

A jouster competes to skewer nine rings against one rider from each of the ten districts of the city.

The Palio di Siena

August 6th | Siena | Tuscany

The infamous horseback race where jockeys make three treacherous laps in the piazza amongst the crowd.

Feast of the Redeemer

August 27 - 30th | Nuoro | Sardinia

Locals congregate at Nuoro’s Cathedral to follow a bronze, seven-metre-tall statue of Christ the Redeemer.

September

Historical Regatta

First Sunday in September | Venice | Veneto

A parade of colourful ceremonial boats followed by a traditional gondola race up the Grand Canal.

Living Chess Game

Second Weekend in September | Marostica | Veneto

A game of chess using live pieces renacts a fictional story of two rival lovers in the main square.

Festival of San Genarro

September 19th | Napoli | Campania

A religious ceremony honouring the patron saint of the city with a procession from the cathedral.

Salone del Gusto

Last Week of September | Turin | Piedmont

An international gastronomy exhibition that strives to preserve traditional and regional cuisines.

October December

Eurochocolate

Nine days in October | Perugia | Umbria

A must for all chocolate lovers! With imaginative laboratories and produce stands lining the streets.

Oh Bej! Oh Bej!

December 7 - 9th | Milan | Lombardy

Milan’s patron saint is celebrated with a beautiful Christmas market at the Church of St. Ambrogio.

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The Gran Tour

SPAIN’S FIRST LUXURY HOTEL BRAND CONTINUES TO EXPAND, TAKING ITS RESPLENDENT CHARMS TO ALL CORNERS OF THE GLOBE

WHEN IT OPENED IN DECEMBER, GRAN

Meliá Iguazú became the first luxury hotel positioned in front of one of the new Wonders of the World. Situated in the spectacular Iguazú National Park, the hotel has quickly become a sought-after stay in Argentina, an achievement the Spanish hotel brand is hoping to repeat next year.

Spain’s first luxury hotel brand, Gran Meliá Hotels & Resorts is slated to open Gran Meliá Chengdu in China next year, which will take the growing portfolio to 13 properties on four continents. Gran Meliá Hotels & Resorts take residence in some of the world’s most

beautiful destinations, and combine timeless luxury, stunning architecture and rich Spanish culture for a memorable stay.

Gran Meliá properties bring sophisticated charm to cities and coastlines across the globe and, in many cases, stand proud as an esteemed city landmark. The prestigious Palacio de los Duques, in the heart of Madrid, is one such hotel. The extraordinary palace, one of eight Gran Meliá Hotels & Resorts in Spain, is dedicated to renowned Spanish artist Diego Velázquez, who developed lifelong bonds with the capital as court painter for Philip III and Philip IV.

Hotel de Mar, meanwhile, is an architectural jewel on the island of Mallorca. A member of the respected Leading Hotels of the World portfolio, the five-star, adults-only resort has 137 rooms and suites, is exquisitely decorated and boasts breathtaking ocean views.

Currently in the works, Gran Meliá Chengdu, located in the capital of Sichuan Province, will be a luxury hotel where guests can enjoy the beauty of the impressive Leshan Buddha or the exquisite green tea born in the Himalayan foothills that surround the city.

melia.com/hotels

Paradise Found

I’M TRYING MY DAMNEDEST NOT TO PANIC, BUT AM FINDING it difficult to decide what to hold on to. In one hand is my phone, recording the precarious scenario that is unfolding. My other hand, meanwhile, fumbles with an expensive camera as I try to keep it from falling into the sea. Gripping my horse’s flank with all of my leg strength, I hope for the best. The ocean reaches my belly. I raise both arms and clench my legs tighter, letting out screams of laughter as my trusty steed, Grey, decides he is done frolicking in the water, and we head for shore.

I have only been on Laucala Island for 24 hours, but have already experienced: a high-speed jet-ski circumnavigation; a close encounter with a black tip reef shark while snorkelling; and pure zen during a private yoga class just footsteps from the beach. So, I suppose an exhilarating horseback ride along –and into – the ocean shouldn’t come as a surprise. It seems there is no shortage of activities on offer on Laucala, and I am planning to fill my three-day visit with as many as I can. Sleep when you’re dead, right? Plus, all activities, with the exception of those outside the reef, are included in the rate.

With a guest-to-staff ratio of one to 13, Laucala takes luxury to a whole new level. From the moment I step off the Air Laucala private plane, service is not only flawless, but always accompanied by a big “bula” smile. One morning after breakfast, I am chatting to the pastry chef about his delicious homemade bread and minutes later I am in the kitchen as he shows me how to make a sourdough starter. It is this type of service that sets Laucala apart.

Located in the Northern Lau island group in Fiji’s northeast, Laucala is a pristine 12-square-kilometre sanctuary comprising volcanic mountains, tropical rainforest, and untouched beaches. The lush island is home to several of the area’s unique birds and animals, though I never catch sight of the elusive orange fruit dove, found only in this region of Fiji.

Laucala’s 25 one-, two- and three-bedroom villas occupy just a small area on the north coast of the island. While most villas are scattered along the beach, the four Plateau Villas, perched on Nawi Hill in the jungle, should not be overlooked as they provide incredible seclusion, and are just a short ride down to the beach in your private golf buggy.

Not that privacy is an issue here. The island has its own maritime and air exclusion zones, keeping unwanted paparazzi away. And while many celebrities have frolicked on Laucala’s white-sand beaches, you won’t be able to pry their names from staff. Discretion here is paramount.

So, too, is loyalty. Staff are long-serving and everyone we meet has kind words for owner Dietrich Mateschitz, the Austrian co-founder of energy drink Red Bull. Staff contentment makes a difference, and really comes through in their attitude.

Villas are spacious with traditional Fijian materials and design carefully selected by the team at interior design studio Lynne Hunt London. Open timber rafters are wrapped in

magimagi, a traditional rope made with coconut husk and then woven into intricate designs. This technique is practiced only by people from the Lau Islands.

The 3500 square metres of private space in my Plantation Villa, which sits smack on the beachfront, include tropical gardens, several sunbeds, sheltered day beds, a freeform infinity pool, yoga platform, an outdoor rain shower, and a large stone tub. The lounge room is a separate villa and has a bar and a variety of snacks, with a special delicacy from the pastry chef delivered every afternoon.

Several organic farms and gardens along with wagyu beef cattle, pigs, chickens, ducks, quail and the resort’s own abattoir ensure a sustainable approach to resort living, enabling Laucala to produce in-house more 80 per cent of what they use.

Chef took us on a behind-the-scenes farm tour, which included taste-testing in the herb garden, collecting warm eggs from the Austrian gold wheaten chickens and getting up close to the animals, including some adorable new piglets. As expected, the livestock, barns and grazing areas are as spotless as the resort. While on our tour, chef got a phone call from one of the local fishermen offering to sell him 20 kilograms of justcaught tuna. He took the lot and we enjoyed some for dinner that night. >>

There are five restaurants ranging from fine-dining degustation at Plantation House, to cliffside teppanyaki, and authentic Thai fusion at Seagrass Restaurant overlooking the bay. Rock Lounge is the place for sunset cocktails and nibbles, and the pool and beach bars offer delicious fresh specialties like kokoda (Fijian raw fish salad, similar to ceviche) and grilled fish. >>

On our last night, we enjoy an incredible evening under the stars at a romantic table for two at the end of the pier. A couple of chefs set up a pop-up kitchen and treat us to fresh lobster, sushi, grilled beef, and a platter of desserts, as a local band gently serenade us. Known as ‘Destination Dining’, you can request to dine virtually anywhere a kitchen can be set up, and work with the chef to design your own menu.

For golf enthusiasts, the David McLay Kidd-designed, 18-hole championship golf course is a major draw. And though I’m a beginner, the sparkling tides of the Pacific Ocean were enough to persuade me to tag along. There is a golf pro on hand if you need a few tips and everything you need is available in the pro shop.

One of the best places to relax is high on the plateau at Laucala’s luxurious spa. Enter through the spa garden, where you can learn about the tropical flowers and other herbs and natural ingredients used in the spa products.

I have a great time with the ladies in the spa kitchen mixing up body oils, soaps and bath bombs using native plants and locally harvested coconut oil (and finish with lovely gifts to bring home to friends).

All guests receive a complimentary 60-minute massage, but that’s just a teaser. My favourite treatment? The three-hour spa journey including massage, wrap, steam, Vichy shower, scrub and fresh floral/citrus bath.

As we are serenaded with the traditional goodbye song, Isa Lei, on the tiny airstrip awaiting our private plane, I ponder that not all islands are created equal. And while I have visited 53 countries in 53 years, I’ve never been anywhere quite like Laucala.

Escape Invigorating

TAKE THE EVER-DESIRABLE WEEKENDER TO NEW HEIGHTS WITH SWISS Ô TEL

A WEEKEND AWAY IS ALWAYS ALLURING, but when that getaway puts great food, stylish surrounds and iconic attractions on your doorstep, the allure is irresistible.

In the heart of the city, Swissôtel Sydney is the perfect urban escape. Boasting a prime location next to Pitt Street Mall and opposite the historic Queen Victoria Building, the hotel puts this world-class city at your fingertips, with must-dos both on site and nearby.

Shoppers will find themselves in retail heaven with just about every boutique and fashion brand within easy walking distance, while gourmands are also in for a treat. The hotel is in the thick of one of Sydney’s best dining precincts and the in-house JPB Restaurant is a popular choice for guests and

locals alike. Executive Chef, Paul Clune, has created an enticing menu of classic dishes featuring native Australian produce while the special vitality lunch menu has a strong focus on wellbeing. Experience Swissôtel Sydney's high tea from Monday to Friday with buffet on Saturday and Sunday. Both come with sparkling wine on arrival.

The award-winning day spa makes Swissôtel the ideal choice for friends or couples looking to indulge. Be transported with a luxurious treatment, designed to restore your natural balance, or relax and recalibrate in the outdoor heated pool or Jacuzzi. There’s also a fullyequipped gym.

The hotel is an excellent base for families wanting to see Sydney’s famous sights, too,

although the kids might not want to leave their digs. Special interconnecting rooms are stocked with age-appropriate toys, games, teepees and a special ‘minibar’.

There’s a lot to squeeze into a weekend in Sydney, which makes the warm Swiss hospitality even more welcoming. The hotel’s impeccable staff will take care of all your needs, allowing you to focus on the important things. Cocktails at Crossroads Bar, lazing by the pool, kicking your heels off in your stylish suite – whatever your poison, you will checkout feeling revitalised and inspired.

The Details

For more information, visit swissotel.com/sydney

Retreat Yourself

IF YOU EVER NEED PROOF THAT EATING FRESH, ORGANIC , seasonal food keeps you healthy, vibrant and looking at least a decade younger, all you need is an introduction to Shelley Pryor.

The organic gardener at Gwinganna Lifestyle Retreat, Shelley (pictured left) is the embodiment of her natural approach to food and a familiar face at the multi-award-winning resort, having been with the Queensland-based company since it opened in 2006.

She is also the perfect choice as presenter of Gwinganna’s three-night Organic Living retreat, even if the vision is somewhat confronting. I am, after all, only a couple of years older than Shelley, which makes it hard to avoid comparison. I have a hard time not staring at her supple skin, shiny hair and sparkling teeth. Like I said, confronting. But I have three days to learn some of the tricks of Shelley’s trade, and she has plenty to share.

Shelley grew up on a farm in rural Victoria where her parents – her dad, a hunter/butcher/cultivator, and her mum, a garden guru/self-taught herbalist – helped instil a wholesome food philosophy. A former chef and an aloe vera juice devotee (she drinks it every day), Shelley brings 50-plus years of experience and knowledge to the retreat, and she passes it on with great generosity and passion.

The next three days are full of garden talks, orchard walks, and learning about bees, worms, soil, compost, and planting by the lunar calendar. We discover natural remedies for dandruff (rosemary), eczema (aloe vera), sleeplessness (catnip tea), bruising and inflammation (comfrey salve), and learn a handy trick to aid gum health and teeth whitening (rub with fresh sage). By the end of day three, my notebook is bursting with information and I am trying to work out how to squeeze a beehive into my tiny back garden.

Shelley is a dynamo and her enthusiasm is contagious. Most of our group are keen gardeners and enjoy exchanging tips and ideas while exploring Gwinganna’s setting, the beautiful Tallebudgera Valley in the Gold Coast hinterland. And for those just starting out, Organic Living is a fabulous way to gain a tonne of knowledge in just a few days. You’ll head home with all kinds of plans.

One thing Shelley continues to emphasise is not to be afraid to make mistakes. Plant it and see what happens. She shows us examples of plants and trees in the Gwinganna garden that haven’t thrived and then illustrates how to investigate why. Good soil is the key to success, according to Shelley, “Once you get the soil right your plants will flourish, and healthy plants don’t have problems with pests.”

When we’re not sampling rocket from the garden, plucking kumquats from the trees or following Shelley around like eager ducklings, we’re busy with everything else Gwinganna has to offer.

Despite the dark, chilly winter mornings, I enjoy the sunrise qi gong on the hill overlooking the valley, followed by a gentle walk before breakfast. No matter what else is on offer, if John Palmer is leading the walk, I will always follow. Like Shelley, John has been with Gwinganna since the beginning. He is the resident botanist and social ecologist, and he’s also the sweetest, most passionate environmentalist I’ve ever met. He created Gwinganna’s 16 walking trails by following the animal paths around the 200-hectare property. My favourite is the walk to the giant old fig tree. It’s a short and easy walk, but when you wrap your arms around the gorgeous plant, said to be more than 1000 years old, and you will feel something incredibly special.

Meals are consistently wonderful and centre around what’s in season and abundant in the garden. Perhaps because we have achieved so much before 8am, breakfast is my favourite meal of the day. Banana, date and quinoa porridge with fruit compote, sheep yogurt, and an assortment of seasonal fruit is first, followed by something hot such as poached eggs or vegetable frittata. Unless you’re on a week-long detox program, coffee and tea are also served until 11am.

There is a gentle stretch class offered after breakfast and then a choice of ‘yin’ activities, such as yoga and Pilates, or ‘yang’ activities, like boxing and water polo. There is always a big walk offered too, but be warned, ‘The Driveway’ is a killer.

Afternoons slow down with time to chill by the pool, visit the chickens, explore the gardens or enjoy the largest spa in the southern hemisphere. With 33 treatment rooms, this sanctuary >>

KAITLIN JANE RETURNS TO GWINGANNA LIFESTYLE RETREAT WHERE A FOCUS ON ORGANIC LIVING INSPIRES LASTING CHANGE

“Shelley is a dynamo and her enthusiasm is contagious. Most of our group are keen gardeners and enjoy exchanging tips and ideas while exploring Gwinganna’s setting.”

“I am fortunate to be staying in a seriously luxe villa called Boorabee (meaning koala). This contemporary, light-filled, open-plan villa has a large deck with heated plunge pool... It is set further up the hill so offers added privacy and a magnificent outlook over the valley.”

has an extensive range of wellness services along with a steam room that is home to a giant amethyst crystal. I have always found the treatments here to be superior, but the Panacee Rejuvenating Facial Ritual absolutely blew me away. Using organic skincare brand PHYT’S, my therapist, Jan, expertly massages creams and serums into my skin for nearly two hours, leaving it deeply hydrated and plumped for days.

Accommodations are scattered throughout the property and come in several styles and price ranges. I am fortunate to be staying in a seriously luxe villa called Boorabee (meaning koala). This contemporary, light-filled, open-plan villa has a large deck with heated plunge pool, day bed and an amazing freestanding bathtub that sits practically in the middle of the room. It is set further up the hill so offers added privacy and a magnificent outlook over the valley. It comes with an electric buggy and even has its own washer and dryer. It would be absolutely perfect for a couple enjoying a retreat together. I felt like a princess having it all to myself.

I have taken so much away from my stay at Gwinganna. Now that I’ve seen the effects of a healthy organic lifestyle, I’m very keen to incorporate some changes into my life. I have already started a big compost so I can feed my undernourished soil and keep more food scraps out of landfill. And I have planted a row of aloe vera at home, too. I don’t have eczema, but I do have envy. Let’s see if this is the secret elixir in Shelley’s Fountain of Youth.

The Details

Gwinganna’s Meditation

Suites (opposite and above) make for a blissful stay.

Aloe Vera Juice

Could this be Shelley’s secret? Among other benefits, aloe vera juice aids healthy digestion, supports your immune system, fights cancer cells, helps your body absorb nutrients, reduces toxins, promotes regularity, help soothes muscle and joint pain, heals burns and hydrates skin and hair. Better still: it’s super simple to make.

Ingredients

• Leaf from aloe barbadensis plant

• 500ml purified water

Method

1. Place leaf in a bowl and drain yellow sap for 20 minutes.

2. Cut off the tip, tail and spikes.

3. Use a sharp knife to remove the skin in the same way you would fillet a fish.Cut flesh into chunks.

4. Rinse flesh in a bowl of water to remove any yellow residue.

5. Place flesh in a jar of purified water and place in fridge overnight (eight hours).

6. Drink the water in the jar (leaving the flesh behind).

7. Start with 1⁄2 cup and work your way up to 500ml a day.

8. Refill the jar with purified water and repeat the last two steps until the flesh has lost its vitality. Do this for 8-10 days.

Tip

Gwinganna Lifestyle Retreat is located in the Tallebudgera Valley, about a 30-minute drive from the Gold Coast Airport. Rates for three-night Organic Living retreat start from $1565 per person, twin share. Rates are fully inclusive. Airport transfers are also included at specified times. gwinganna.com

If the water in the jar is too thick the first time, dilute it with purified water before drinking it. The juice will get thinner each day the steps are repeated. There will only be a bitter taste if it has not been drained or rinsed enough.

Yoga with a view

Organic Mushroom Soup

Under the Kenyan sun

KEITH AUSTIN EXPERIENCES THE MAGIC OF KENYA THREE WAYS AND DISCOVERS THE RICH DIVERSITY THAT TYPIFIES THIS EXTRAORDINARY AFRICAN NATION

THERE’S A WARNING SIGN JUST OUTSIDE MY spacious tented room in the Fig Tree Camp safari lodge on the edge of Kenya’s Masai Mara National Reserve. It sits at the top of a steep embankment which slides at least six metres into the somewhat sluggish Talek River as it curves around the camp. The sign reads: ‘Don’t Go Beyond This Point’.

Given there is a massive dinosaur (aka crocodile) whiling away the afternoon wedged against the opposite bank and a bloat of hippopotami a little further along, this makes me wonder (a) why such a sign was needed in the first place, and (b) what genius came up with ‘bloat’ as a collective noun for hippos.

We are on day two of an eight-day National Geographic Journeys with G Adventures Kenya Safari Experience – day one being the meet-and-greet in Nairobi where you are welcomed by the guide and introduced to your fellow adventurers. Remembering their names shouldn’t be hard as there is a maximum of six people on the tour, which

also means everyone gets a window seat in the pop-top 4WD LandCruiser.

In all, we stay at three lodges in three very different reserves or national parks: Fig Tree in the Masai Mara, Lake Nakuru Lodge in Lake Nakuru National Park, and Kilima Safari Camp in Amboseli National Park.

It’s a jam-packed itinerary with long distances between the parks, but the driving is made fascinating by the colourful cavalcade of Kenyan life that rolls by outside, enlivened by drink stops, lunch stops and, at one point, a visit to Cafe Ubuntu and craft centre, a G Adventures for Good-supported project which trains and creates local jobs for women.

We get to Fig Tree Camp in time for lunch after a bonerattling journey over corrugated roads from Nairobi – a journey which will become infinitely more comfortable when the new freeway is finished.

The camp, like all our lodgings on the trip, is wellstaffed, clean, and luxurious by Kenyan standards –

we’d probably call it 3- or 4-star but that is not to be sniffed at when the wonders of the Kenyan wilderness are just over the threshold. At Fig Tree the accommodation is mostly in large tented rooms which overlook the river, Lake Nakuru is a little more low-key while Kilima is the cream of the crop with huge detached rooms, a viewing platform looking out to Mount Kilimanjaro and a big swimming pool.

After lunch at Fig Tree we return to the 4WD and head off into the Masai Mara, scattering the baboon families that cluster around the outskirts of the camp. As first game drives go, it’s not too shabby. We come across zebra, warthogs, buffalo, giraffe, gazelles, lions, a leopard and a family of hyenas as well as enough exotic birds to send even the most ardent twitcher barking mad.

The drive ends in a scene so perfect that I still question that it happened – and I was there. A couple of buffalo in the distance are dark shapes against a sun the colour of gold and a sky that looks like the kaleidoscopic bruise I once copped after falling off a scooter in Greece. Two of the iconic flat-topped acacia trees, also just black shadows against the fantasmagorical light show happening on the horizon, complete the clich.

The next morning, we are up at oh-my-God-it’s-early o’clock to meet for a pre-dawn hot-air balloon ride across the sweeping plains of the Great Rift Valley. The best times to see the vast numbers of animals taking part

in the annual Great Migration are July and August, but we do see elephants, a lone hippo, emus and some wildebeest. The main attraction, though, is the landscape and the re-emergence of the sun that we saw disappear with such magnificence the night before.

Lake Nakuru National Park, about 200 kilometres to the north, is a somewhat different kettle of wildlife thanks to the huge lake which is home, at certain times of the year, to tens of thousands of pink flamingo and other birdlife.

It is more undulating and wooded than the Masai Mara, and we come across Rothschild’s giraffes, a couple of rhinos and more buffalo than you can poke a spear at. Most of the flamingos are off sunning themselves further south but the few who are left are as weirdly beautiful as ever.

Finally, we head south east, back past Nairobi, to Amboseli National Park and a flattened landscape dominated by Mount Kilimanjaro. Known for its elephants (and there are plenty of them), this small park – it’s just 392 square kilometres – also boasts more than 400 bird species, including the grey crowned crane, the cheeky superb starling and the startlingly elegant secretary bird.

Our guide points out that, although Kilimanjaro is actually across the border in Tanzania, “we have the best views”. It’s hard to argue with that.

Kenya Safari Experience WITH G ADVENTURES

Tap into the essence of East Africa on an eight-day safari in Kenya. Take daily wildlife drives in the shadow of Mount Kilimanjaro, discover the Maasai way of life, and learn about elephant conservation from a representative of the Kenya Wildlife Service. With endless plains teeming with wildlife and dotted with acacia trees, you won’t want to blink let alone put down your camera.

DAY 1 NAIROBI

Arrive at any time. A driver will be at the airport to pick you up and take you to the hotel. Feel free to explore before your welcome meeting in the evening, a chance to meet your fellow travellers and your Chief Experience Officer (CEO).

DAY 2 NAIROBI TO MASAI MARA

After breakfast, we depart for the world famous Masai Mara National Reserve. With its vast open plains and flat-topped acacia trees, no visit to Kenya would be complete without a visit here. In the afternoon, we will arrive in the area and get settled at our safari camp. Then we’ll make our way into the reserve for an afternoon wildlife safari drive, with an excellent chance of seeing the Big Five: buffalo, elephant, leopard, lion, and rhino.

DAY 3 MASAI MARA

Set off on an early morning safari with our driver/guide and keep your eyes and ears peeled for movement and memories. Watch elephants and giraffe grazing, photograph zebras and wildebeest, and with a little luck, you’ll even spot animals feasting on a recent kill. The day continues with more wildlife viewing as you cross the rolling hills of the African savannah. Also enjoy a late afternoon/evening safari. Opt to fly over the Mara River, plains, and forests of the Masai Mara in a hot air balloon. Toast your return to earth with a Champagne breakfast, cooked wherever you land.

DAY 4 MASAI MARA TO LAKE NAKURU NATIONAL PARK

Depart early on a long but beautiful drive to Lake Nakuru. En route, stop in at a G Adventures for Good-supported project, Ubuntu Cafe — an initiative that trains and creates more than 400 sustainable local jobs for mothers of children with disabilities, and supports paediatric health and education programs in the region. Visit the craft centre, meet some of the ‘Mamas’ in the program, learn how their lives have been impacted and, in turn, their communities empowered through this initiative, then sit down to a delicious farm-to-table

WHERE TO STAY

The luxury tented camp accommodations on this tour are situated centrally, with easy access to the park for wildlife safari drives. Tents are spacious with mosquito-proof netting around the comfortable, canopy bedding and ensuite bathroom with flushing toilets and hot showers.

lunch. Continue to our safari lodge inside the Lake Nakuru National Park. Enjoy a late afternoon wildlife safari drive, keep an eye out for the resident black and white rhino, buffalo, impala, and the elusive leopard.

DAY 5 LAKE NAKURU NATIONAL PARK TO AMBOSELI NATIONAL PARK

Enjoy a morning wildlife safari drive, heading to the shores of Lake Nakuru to see pelicans and cormorants. The park is also rich in other bird life, including grebes, white-winged black terns, stilts, avocets, and ducks. In the afternoon, venture south to famed Amboseli National Park, located at the foot of Africa’s highest mountain, Mount Kilimanjaro. The snow-capped peak of the mountain dominates every aspect of the park, providing the ultimate photo backdrop.

DAY 6 AMBOSELI NATIONAL PARK

Enjoy morning and afternoon wildlife safari drives. Visit with some of the 1500 African elephants that roam the park. Look for other wildlife and meet the resident Maasai along the journey. Marvel in the beauty of Mount Kilimanjaro, the world’s highest free-standing mountain, as it reigns over the landscape of this uniquely African location. During your down time, relax at camp, enjoying views of Mount Kilimanjaro and the wildlife visiting the camp’s watering holes. Gain a deeper understanding of the issues surrounding poaching and elephant conservation during a lecture by an accredited speaker from the Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS), an exclusive activity to the National Geographic Journeys with G Adventures itineraries. The KWS strives to sustainably conserve and develop Kenya’s wildlife and its habitats, as well as create programs to enable communities living in wildlife areas to benefit from wildlife revenue.

DAY 7/8 AMBOSELI NATIONAL PARK TO NAIROBI/DEPART

Rise early for a final morning wildlife safari drive, enjoying the African sun as it rises over the savannah of the Amboseli plain. Return to Nairobi in the late afternoon and opt to join the CEO in a farewell dinner.

WHEN TO GO

For the strongest chance of seeing the wildebeest, the best time to go is from July to October, before they start plodding back southward to the Seronera Plains in Tanzania for calving in January. They typically start to head north again after the long rains, in May.

TOUR INCLUSIONS

Hotels (two nights), safari lodge (one night), comfortable tented camps (four nights) Seven breakfasts, six lunches, five dinners (allow US$100-130 for other meals)

Transportation: seven-seat 4WD safari vehicle

Our trips throughout Kenya and Tanzania have a maximum group size of six travellers in addition to a Chief Experience Officer (CEO/tour leader) and a driver who are both trained safari guides. That means everyone gets a window seat and twice the insight about the astounding wildlife all around you.

$3,799PP

To book, please contact G Adventures | Call: 1300 180 969 | Email experience@gadventures.com For a more detailed itinerary, search ‘African Safari’ at luxurytravelmag .com.au/experiencesbyluxurytravel

GARY ALLEN CHECKS IN TO QUALIA, ONE OF AUSTRALIA’S MOST CELEBRATED RESORTS, WHERE NATURAL SPLENDOURS AND UNMATCHED SERENITY AWAIT

AS I PULL UP MY EYE MASK AND DIG OUT MY EAR PLUGS, I am greeted with panoramic views of the Whitsunday Islands and wonder why, exactly, I was trying to block out such beauty at all. Yet, with help from those sleep aids, I am well rested and quickly decide this vista is too good to pass up with any more down time. I make a coffee and return to my nest, taking in the caffeine and the pristine surroundings, both with great satisfaction.

I am cosied up in a Windward Pavilion at qualia, one of the country’s premium resorts, and it wouldn’t be hard to stay put. For the day, for the week, for eternity. But I am not a lounger by nature and so I decide to hit the gym. After all, I can’t fathom the idea of breakfast. The previous evening’s dinner – a culinary adventure at Long Pavilion, one of two in-house dining options –is still front of mind.

One of the Luxury Lodges of Australia, adults-only qualia typifies serenity and calm. In Latin, qualia means “a collection of deeper sensory experiences” and the name could hardly be more fitting. Qualia is located on the sun-drenched northern-most tip of Hamilton Island, one of the 74 islands that make up the Whitsunday archipelago in the Great Barrier Reef National Park. It is a picture-perfect destination, which is why it has been recognised countless times through industry awards and ‘best-of’ lists.

Glistening views and a soft, warm breeze shape my introduction to qualia, and the welcome is just as warm. Efficient, too. My luggage is taken care of from the airport and in my room before I am. Meanwhile, I am en route within five minutes of leaving the plane and, at the resort, my carriage awaits. I am escorted to my room in a four-seater electric buggy, which will be with me for exclusive use throughout my stay.

In this instance particularly, ‘room’ is just a figure of speech. Modern and expansive with floor-to-ceiling windows, my room is indeed a pavilion and it blends beautifully in natural tones of timber, stone and glass. The light-filled bathroom is almost as big as the bedroom with a bathtub that surely lures even the most active traveller. The large lounge room leads to a private deck with a huge comfortable daybed, plunge pool and a couple of lounge chairs.

All 60 of the resort’s ‘rooms’ promise peace and relaxation in genuine privacy. They all have water views and are surrounded by lush native bushland, making the resort as tranquil for the wildlife as it is for guests. The ‘cockies’ don’t always surrender to the tranquillity, though. These large cockatiels are prepared for even the slightest opening in search of snacks so don’t forget to close your doors when you leave.

Golf enthusiast are in luck, thanks to the vision and commitment of qualia’s owners, the Oatley family. The Oatleys own and run Hamilton Island, and purchased neighbouring Dent Island for the sole purpose of installing a golf course. >>

“Qualia is located on the sun-drenched northern-most tip of Hamilton Island, one of the 74 islands that make up the Whitsunday archipelago in the Great Barrier Reef National Park. It is a picture-perfect destination, which is why it has been recognised countless times through industry awards and ‘best-of’ lists.”

And what a golf course. Designed by five-time British Open winner Peter Thomson, the Hamilton Island Gold Club is Australia’s only championship island course and a quick private ferry ride will put you on the green.

Pebble Beach is the resort’s private beach, although the branding is slightly off the mark. The ‘pebbles’ are more like rocks as far as my feet are concerned. It’s not a beach for going barefoot.

For the genuine beach experience, a visit to Whitehaven Beach will satisfy the craving. This slice of paradise is well-renowned, so you will be among plenty of other sand and sun worshippers, but it’s a beautiful spot with clear, calm water and fine-as-powder sand. A private helicopter will whisk you there in minutes.

Closer to home, the resort’s slick infinity pool overlooking the sparkling Coral Sea will have to do. You’ll even get some sand between your toes with the poolside set-up, complete with sand and lounge chairs. And for guests staying between June and September, the possibility of spotting migrating whales from this position is a very real one.

During a stay as luxurious as this, pampering beckons and Spa qualia is every bit the indulgence you would expect. You’ll find Australian brands Sodashi and LaGaia Unedited on the shelves and a comprehensive menu of treatments including holistic and wellbeing therapies.

For signature experiences of a different kind, the Sake and Sashimi tasting is informative and delicious. This is one of three Epicurean Food Experiences on offer, along with Champagne and Oysters, and Wine and Cheese. Three perfect pairings.

The private buggy proves helpful throughout my stay, particularly with the hilly terrain, both on site and beyond. A trip to town takes just 10 minutes and it’s a collegial drive, given the only vehicles on Hamilton Island are resort-owned. It’s lovely to have a little cruise to town for a bite or spot of shopping. Be careful of the mobile breathalyser traps along the way. Only kidding! I wonder if you can get caught driving under the influence here. I might be curious, but I don’t plan to find out first-hand.

As I was privy to immediately on arrival, service at the resort is second to none. All of the employees I cross paths with are eager to please and interested to chat, if you are that way inclined. Travelling solo, I am that way inclined and enjoy many conversations with staff from all over the world and in various stages of hospitality careers. But I never got to speak with the ‘turn down fairies’, who arrive each evening when I head out for dinner. I wish I did. I would have thanked them for the daily Zokoko artisan chocolates and the small gifts, such as a Maison Balzac candle.

It’s lovely to have these physical mementos of such a magnificent stay, but I leave with so much more. As I am walking out of my oasis for the last time, I linger a moment to catch that view once more. The brief pause triggers a telling exhale. ‘I’m gonna miss this,’ it seemed to whisper. And I do miss it... very much.

The Details

Direct flights to Hamilton Island are available daily from Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane and Cairns. Passenger ferries to Hamilton Island depart Shute Harbour, near Airlie Beach. Windward Pavilion rates start from $2000 per night, including breakfast and based on a minimum stay of four nights. For a two- or three- night stay, the rate is $2100 per night. For more information, visit qualia.com.au.

A Sardinian Gem

A SLOW-LIVING ETHOS AND UNABASHED GLAMOUR COMBINE TO CREATE A DESTINATION OF BEGUILING ECCENTRICITY ON THE ITALIAN ISLAND OF SARDINIA

Words

by

MADELIN TOMELTY

If you want to live a long life you should live in the mountains, not too far from the sea, and drink lots of red wine. This was one of my key takeaways from Sardinia, an Italian island known not only for its rugged good looks, but also for being home to some of the world’s longest-living people.

Just five places in the world can claim to be a ‘Blue Zone’ region – where there is an unusually high percentage of people over 100 years old – and Sardinia was the first to be identified. On this unspoilt island, there are nearly 10 times more centenarians per capita than in the United States, and its central eastern province of Nuoro is known for having the planet’s healthiest and longestliving men. You won’t find these gentlemen playing bingo and canasta in a pastel, Florida-style retirement village, either. It’s far more likely you’ll catch them walking peacefully in nature or sitting at a restaurant, chatting with friends over the catch of the day and a bottle of cabernet sauvignon.

I can’t say I was terribly shocked to discover Sardinians live longer, healthier and happier lives than the average person. If you took 30 seconds to Google the destination you’d see a screen filled with perfect turquoise water and fine-sand beaches, sheepcovered mountains and yacht-dotted marinas. Sardinia is part of Italy, but it is also considered a semi-autonomous region with its own indigenous languages and traditions, and a rich culture rooted in the connection between people, land and sea. For those that were born and bred here, they’re not just Italian, they’re Sardinian, and they make the distinction proudly – there are, clearly, worse places to grow old.

And yet, for all its dramatic beauty and fascinating culture, Sardinia still flies under the radar of many travellers, and of course this just adds to its appeal. There is a sort of delicious satisfaction in holidaying in a place that isn’t overrun by

tourists, and my partner and I fell hook, line and sinker for Sardinia’s quiet charms when we first visited in 2015. We did as the long-living Sardinians do on that trip – we took our time and let each day unfold naturally as we road-tripped on an itinerary-free journey across untamed, mountainous hinterland, breathing in every moment of the island’s unique sense of peace and isolation. It felt like the island was ours and that we were its first explorers as each day we encountered yet another flawless beach along the almost-2000-kilometre coastline, and stopped at a different seaside town for another Sardinian long lunch. >>

Church of San Paolo Apostolo, Olbia

“Sardinia [has] a rich culture rooted in the connection between people, land and sea. For those that were born and bred here, they’re not just Italian, they’re Sardinian, and they make the distinction proudly – there are, clearly, worse places to grow old.”

Tavolara island

It continues to be one of our most fondly-remembered trips, and so there is heady anticipation as I arrive at Olbia airport for Round Two, four years later. Sardinia is known for its incredible diversity, so I know this trip is likely to be completely different from my last, especially since this time I’ll be spending five days in Costa Smeralda. Sure, Sardinia might celebrate the Mediterranean diet and living in harmony with the environment, but the ‘Emerald Coast’ reminds you that you’re allowed to let your hair down while doing it – la dolce vita and all that.

One of Europe’s most celebrated playgrounds of the rich and famous, Costa Smeralda’s flashy, 55-kilometre stretch of coast on the north of the island has long been a glitterati go-to destination for high-summer good times. The main town of Porto Cervo is the region’s beating heart, and its piazzetta – a main square not large enough to warrant a Rome-style ‘piazza’ –is peppered with restaurants, bars and boutiques that overlook a harbour filled with super yachts worthy of a rapper’s charttopping music video.

This is where the rich go to see and be seen, to party and also to repose. It feels a bit like an adults’ Disneyworld, where the rides

are replaced by hidden, invitation-only nightclubs and souvenir shops are replaced by designer fashion boutiques that could drain your bank account faster than the time it takes to get through an Aperol Spritz. And yet for all Costa Smeralda’s prestige, there is a palpable light-heartedness that is utterly unique for the historically ostentatious Mediterranean. This is one of the very reasons celebrities have flocked here for the past 50 years.

Before the 1960s, Costa Smeralda was nothing but farmland, with shepherds and their flocks more or less the only inhabitants. But when flamboyant Arab millionaire Karim Aga Khan flew over the unspoiled coastline and its vivid teal waters in 1962, it was love at first sight. He rallied a handful of investors and together they bought the land, developing the area into an exclusive resort consortium for the super wealthy. The rest, as they say, is history.

A big part of this history is Costa Smeralda’s iconic architecture, which is so important to its identity that a committee oversees all building projects, ensuring the epochal aesthetic is never diluted. It was created by a group of world-renowned architects including Swiss-born Jacques Couëlle and Luigi Vietti, and the result is a skyline defined by sculptural, squat buildings with haphazard, rounded lines and irregular shapes. The buildings, in pastel shades as well as Greek Island-white and natural terracotta, were inspired by medieval lodgings and look as though they have been shaped by the Mediterranean’s infamous mistral wind over thousands of years.

Quirky and colourful Hotel Cala di Volpe – which recently refurbished 10 of its rooms – is one of the best examples of Couëlle’s trademark style. Considered the most desirable, luxurious and iconic hotel on the Emerald Coast, it was designed to resemble a traditional Sardinian fishing village. My favourite >>

Below, clockwise from top: Porto Cervo harbour; Hotel Cala di Volpe; Stella Maris church, Porto Cervo.

place to relax here is at the outdoor Atrium Bar, where sculpted arches create vivid open-air windows to a small harbour that truly does feel like one of the seaside villages I visited four years earlier.

It’s a property that is full of character with a melting pot of design influences, from Arabic flourishes nodding to Costa Smeralda’s colonisation, to age-old, indigenous Sardinian craftsmanship. Look around and you’ll find Arabic exposed-beam ceilings; Sardinian granite walls embedded with irregular pieces of stained glass and adorned with traditional handmade baskets; and hand-carved and laid Sardinian juniper tree flooring.

At Hotel Cala di Volpe, everything has a story, and given Costa Smeralda has seen the world’s biggest celebrities, movie stars, Russian oligarchs, media moguls, Arab sheiks and billionaire jetsetters over the decades, so does everyone who works there. But none as juicy, perhaps, as those of the grey-haired gentleman I meet while dining one evening at the hotel’s impressive Nobuowned restaurant, Matsuhisa, who has been working at Cala di Volpe for 50 years. For a start, I find out the restaurant was originally the hotel lobby, and was transformed into James Bond’s suite for the 1977 film The Spy Who Loved Me, featuring Roger Moore. And that’s just the tip of the iceberg.

My travel companions and I are wide-eyed and hanging to his every word as he tells us he once had to urgently arrange a table at the hotel’s waterside restaurant for Jackie O, who was staying in the marina, and that Princess Diana had been there waving to people from her yacht on the day she was tragically killed. He could go on, but the staff at Cala di Volpe pride themselves

This page and opposite, bottom: The connection between people, land and sea is key in Sardinia. This is emphasised through the communal spaces at Hotel Cala di Volpe.

on their discretion, and lucky for him it’s around this time that fireworks start exploding over the harbour, and not even Lady Di can keep me from glittery sky art.

The food at Matsuhisa, which draws on Japanese and Peruvian influences, is excellent, but my favourite dining experience at Costa Smeralda is of a more modest nature –  a shareable farm-to-table spread at The Farm. With a huge vegetable patch and a menagerie of grazing chickens and goats, Cala di Volpe has introduced a paddock-to-plate menu as well as wellness and nutrition programs designed by leading UK celebrity nutritionist Amanda Hamilton. The food embraces Sardinia’s healthy traditions to remind each guest they are a “human being, not human doing”, with ingredients picked straight form the garden. There are colourful, fresh salads, grilled seafood and meats, and cheeses on the table, and of course, wine made from the local cannanou grape, famed for its links to longevity due to its high levels of polyphenols. But perhaps the most Sardinian thing of all is the laughing, as everyone digs into good conversation as well as their nourishing lunch. Because for the Sardinians, spending quality time with people is just as important as what you put into your body for living a long life. This one meal might not guarantee I’ll live to 100, but it’s a delicious start.

The Details

Costa Smeralda is located 28 kilometres north of Olbia. The resort destination is seasonal, with most of its hotels operating from May to October. Rates for Hotel Cala di Volpe start from €394 (around A$650) per night in the low season. marriott.com.au

SITTING AMONG THE CLOUD FORESTS OF ECUADORIAN CHOCÓ, MASHPI LODGE PUTS GUESTS IN THE THICK OF INCREDIBLE BIODIVERSITY FOR CLOSE ENCOUNTERS OF THE WILD KIND

Words by KELLY ALLEN

Photography by JACQUELINE SCHOFIELD

While gazing out into the misty forest through the two-storey glass wall, enjoying a deliciously smooth local coffee, something catches my eye as it creeps across an outdoor table. Shiny, black and the size of a child’s shoe, a strangely prehistoric looking beetle with a giant set of pincers ambles along, about a metre on the other side of the glass.

I’m not the only one to notice. A guide comes out and gently scoops the beetle up, asking if I would like to touch it before he relocates it to a safer spot. The beautiful (and I use that term loosely) scarab turns out to be a rhinoceros beetle, and the first of many incredible creatures I will discover during my three days at Mashpi Lodge in Ecuador.

There is a good reason for this abundance. At 950 metres above sea level, Mashpi Lodge is located on a 1200-hectare private reserve at the heart of the Chocó Forest, a biodiversity hotspot that stretches from Panama down through Columbia before spilling into northern Ecuador. More specifically, it is nestled between cloud forest and rainforest, two types of ecosystems that are highly rich in species and biodiversity. Cloud forest is similar to rainforest, but located at a higher elevation where the temperature is cooler, the mist is magical and – an unexpected bonus – there are very few mosquitos. Although it seems a world away from the Ecuadorian capital, the lodge is officially located in the Metropolitan District of Quito.

Once a logging concession, the private reserve was purchased in 2001 by Roque Sevilla, a former Mayor of Quito as well as an environmentalist, and chairman of Metropolitan Touring, one of Ecuador’s leading tour operators. Sevilla’s original aim was to protect the area and his ethos has never wavered. You will still find biologists and botanists on site working on scientific studies and discovering new species and Mashpi Lodge, which opened in 2012, is one of National Geographic’s Unique Lodges of the World. >>

Verdant forest filled with wildlife surrounds Mashpi Lodge guests at every turn

Only properties with an emphasis on sustainability and protecting the local culture and ecosystem are included in this selective portfolio, and Mashpi certainly fits the bill. It was built using recycled steel, glass, stone and timber; constructed mostly offsite to protect the surroundings; and runs on hydroelectric power. Meanwhile, about 80 per cent of staff are from local communities, many of them former loggers. This has helped the community transition from one that relies on deforestation to one that understands and actively supports conservation.

Thankfully, the guides that have grown up exploring this forest also happen to be very comfortable with all of the creepy crawlies that live here, as I find out on our first night walk. They pick up and closely inspect snakes without a care, allow scorpion spiders to scuttle up their arms, and let tarantulas come within centimetres in order to get a good photo. We are a little less adventurous, but no less impressed, examining the eerie glow of the foxfire fungi and inspecting the translucent bodies of glass frogs.

A visit to Mashpi Lodge is all about being enveloped in nature, from the 23 guest rooms with floor-to-ceiling windows that gaze straight into the dense jungle, to the abundant outdoor activities, tailored to suit all fitness levels.

Each morning after an early breakfast we head out for a half-day hike. Donning knee-high rubber boots provided by the lodge (don’t even think about using your own shoes; they will be covered in mud and unrecognisable when you’re done), we head out to the forest in search of wildlife and waterfalls. Our guide Bryan seems to have a sixth sense for spotting everything from frogs the size of my pinky fingernail to camouflaged snakes, stick insects, and even howler monkeys hiding in the tree tops. He also knows dozens of bird calls and can answer every nature question I throw at him.

The two waterfalls we visit, Glass Frog and Healing, are both sensational swimming spots and we wallow around for ages, enjoying the heavy-duty massage of the pounding falls on our back. Blame it on global warming, but we have clear skies for nearly the entire stay (rainfall can reach up to six metres per year), which makes the hiking and swimming very pleasant. When we return to the lodge, we are welcomed at the door with moist hand towels and a cold juice before we dig into to a delicious lunch buffet. Meals are a modern take on traditional Ecuadorian cuisine and standouts include the fresh ceviche, seared tuna with local spices, octopus with white truffle oil, and Ecuadorian goat stew. Desserts showcase local ingredients such as premium Ecuadorian chocolate, coffee, and traditional creme caramel and tres leches (three milk) cake. And don’t miss out on the popcorn served throughout the day. I don’t know what they do to it; it’s not salty, it’s not sweet, but it’s fresh and absolutely delicious!

After lunch it’s a visit to the spa, soak in the Jacuzzi, or quick siesta, before heading out again. More adventure follows with a ride through the tree canopy on the ‘Sky Bike’, an aerial bicycle for two that uses pedal power to glide you 200 metres across the gorge, stopping when you like to check out birds or just enjoy the silence of the forest.

Legs too tired from the morning hike? Try the ‘Dragonfly’, a two-kilometre open-air cable-car system with gondolas that float far above the canopy (more than 200 metres at its highest point), giving you a bird’s-eye view of the forest and its inhabitants. >>

Surprisingly, despite all of the hiking and physical activity, instead of feeling tired I feel recharged and eager to keep exploring. One of the most amusing experiences takes place at the Hummingbird Garden, where the world’s tiniest birds dart around like mini drones, zooming close and at high speed. They love the colour red – it mimics nature’s flower buffet – and land on my red phone case more than once while I try to film the action. There are nearly 20 species that commonly call this area home and they come in a range of colours from deep violet to emerald green. This area is also frequented by several types of toucans and a weasel-like mammal called a tayra. I’ve never really understood the obsession of birdwatching, but now I fear I’m becoming a ‘bird nerd’ myself.

The Life Centre is another area worth exploring with its large deck perfect for viewing more wildlife, and the education centre with butterfly conservatory.

The past three days in the forest have been full of nature and adventure, but it’s time for the bumpy ride back to central Quito to see a different side of Ecuador, where cobblestone streets, Baroque churches, local artisans and colonial architecture prevail.

The windy journey takes about 3.5 hours (take motion sickness tablets if you tend to get sick), but is beautiful and crosses the equator. Quito is located at almost 3000 metres above sea level in the foot hills of the Andean Mountains. I’m staying at the stylish Casa Gangotena, considered one of the most luxurious hotels in Ecuador. Previously the private residence of the Gangotena family, the boutique 31-room Relais & Chateaex property is ideally located in the historic Plaza San Francisco. Art Deco-style rooms are elegant, featuring high-pressed metal ceilings, towering windows and white marble ensuites.

The in-house restaurant offers a ‘cocina mestiza’ menu, which translates loosely to “mixed kitchen”, but in fact refers to the unique blend of indigenous Ecuadorian cuisine and Spanish specialties. Speaking of blends, the mixologist is more than happy to suggest the perfect cocktail for us, which we enjoy on the rooftop overlooking the plaza. The succulent whole roasted pork cooked over a wood fire together with a pear-infused pisco cocktail was the perfect ending to our trip. Too full for dessert,

we opted for local specialty, chocolate con queso: a steaming mug of hot chocolate using the best Ecuadorian cacao, accompanied by salty farmer’s cheese. This may sound like a strange combination, but the contrast of salty and sweet as the cheese melts into the chocolate is divine.

Sadly, our stay in Quito is too short. We have fallen in love with Ecuador and its genuinely warm and friendly people. There is so much we didn’t have time for, from towering volcanos to unique wildlife in the Galapagos. Oh well, something to save for the next trip.

The Details

South America Travel Centre can create your tailor-made journey. Visit southamericatravelcentre.com.au

Mashpi Lodge rates start from US$1340 (about A$1980) per night and include all meals and soft drinks, and more. mashpilodge.com

Casa Gangotena rates start at US$400 (about A$590) per night and include breakfast. casagangotena.com

The Singular Hotel in Santiago is a beautiful alternative to an airport hotel for those with an overnight layover. thesingular.com

Above right: Casa Gangotena’s in-house restaurant offers a ‘cocina mestiza’ menu combining Ecuardorian and Spanish cuisines.

Casa Gangotena’s grand facade

Plaza View Suite, Casa Gangotena

Highland Fling

OVERFLOWING WITH CHARM, SCOTLAND IS A FAIRYTALE DESTINATION WHERE SCENIC LANDSCAPES CAPTURE THE IMAGINATION

Words by KELLY ALLEN

Kilchurn Castle, Loch Awe

At just over 80,000 square kilometres, Scotland isn’t much bigger than Tasmania, yet the relatively small country packs a remarkable amount of personality.

Crammed with mysterious lochs, dramatic coastline, rugged highlands and meandering glens, Scotland offers something for everyone. Whether you’re a history buff, golf enthusiast, nature lover or connoisseur of whisky, you’ll be charmed by this bonnie land.

This is my maiden trip to Scotland, home to my grandfather’s family, and I’ve only got nine days to see it. That being the case, I have decided to let the experts at Abercrombie & Kent handle the details for me. Having travelled with A&K in the past, I am confident everything will be seamless and that my excursions and accommodations will be top notch. This feeling is validated when we are met at Edinburgh’s airport by Margaret, our wonderful Abercrombie ‘Guardian Angel’ and Gordon, our knowledgeable driver and tour guide.

It’s a short drive from the airport to the very impressive Balmoral Hotel, the hallmark of Princes Street, and certainly the most prestigious hotel in Edinburgh. Now owned by Rocco Forte Hotel Group, the grand castle-like hotel, complete with turrets, was built above the Waverley Railway Station in 1902. It has since hosted many celebrity visitors including Sophia Loren, Elizabeth Taylor, and Paul and Linda McCartney. The Queen Mother, meanwhile, regularly dines at the Balmoral when in town and is apparently a keen admirer of the lamb. We are in good company.

Our Castle View Suite has a generous lounge with working fireplace, cosy nooks created by the turrets and stunning views of the Old Town and, of course, Edinburgh Castle. Talented designer Olga Polizzi, sister to Sir Rocco Forte, has used soft wool tartans of blues, greens, greys and purples in the furnishings and the walls

View from Calton Hill, Edinburgh

are covered in the most beautiful wallpaper. The oversized marble bathroom has a deep tub and separate shower.

After helping us check in, Margaret gives us some tips on where to get a bite to eat and we spend the afternoon exploring the Old Town, which is less than a 10-minute walk from our hotel.

The next morning, after an amazing – and high protein! – Scottish breakfast of smoked kippers, local cured salmon, black pudding and a side of haggis, we are met in the lobby by Gordon for our full-day journey towards the Highlands and west coast. We revel in the next three days as Gordon delights us with Scottish history while we stare out the window, eyes fixed on beautiful wooded glens, braes and lochs. Gordon also makes time to stop off at picturesque villages such as Luss and Comrie when we feel like exploring further. When hunger strikes, Gordon always has several options for us from a fancy seafood lunch with white tablecloths to cosy local pubs for a pint and a pie – always homemade and always delicious. We enter the Highlands up the mountain pass known as ‘Rest and Be Thankful’, appropriately named as that is exactly what travellers would do in times past when they finally reached the top. From the summit, the views of Glen Croe valley with a bright blue sky are incredible. Yes, I said blue sky. This is not what I expected. Where is all the rain and wind everyone cautioned me about? It’s a stunning 23 degrees and there is not a cloud to be seen.

A private tour of Inveraray Castle, home to the Duke of Argyll (chief of clan Campbell) is a great stopover, and the first of several that we explore. The castles in Scotland are a highlight of the trip and seem to pop up around every bend. I never tire of the history and hearing about the battles between clans. >>

‘Rest and Be Thankful’ mountain pass

Castle View Suite, Balmoral Hotel

We spend two nights on the west coast at the Isle of Eriska Hotel, a 121-hectare Relais & Chateaux property set on a private island estate accessible by a narrow bridge. The 19th-century mansion overlooks Loch Linnhe and the glorious west-highland scenery. Fittingly, there are several large fireplaces to cosy up next to with a glass of wine or a whisky – you can choose the deep comfy sofas with oak wood panelling in the hall or the sun-filled piano room surrounded by windows.

The hotel is a perfect jumping-off point for exploring the Hebridean Islands. A 45-minute ferry takes us to the Isle of Mull and from there the Isle of Iona. Sheep roam freely around both islands and Iona has a beautifully restored medieval abbey. In the sixth century, Saint Columba and his followers arrived from Ireland to spread the word of Christianity, and Iona was the first spot they landed. There are about 130 residents on the island as well as green pastures, sandy beaches and a handful of quaint shops selling locally produced crafts.

Our journey back to Edinburgh is just as delightful as we drive through the Great Trossachs Forest with the sun shining on the quiet lochs. We spot pheasants, wild turkeys, black grouse and red deer, and we get a roadside view of Stirling Castle before we are back in the Old Town of Edinburgh for a half-day private tour of the area including the Edinburgh Castle and the Palace of Holyroodhouse.

Met by our enthusiastic tour guide, Sandra, we are given an abbreviated history lesson of all of the Georges and Jameses that ruled Scotland as we walk the Royal Mile from the palace to the castle. We explore both fortresses with Sandra and I take in more history in a few hours than I think I did right throughout high school.

Isle of Iona

So far, our trip has been sensational in every way, and the locals can’t stop talking about how spectacular the weather is –they keep thanking us for bringing the Australian sun with us. But I have to say I’m truly excited about the next part as we will be boarding the Belmond Royal Scotsman train for four days of beautiful countryside, delicious meals, local entertainment and more than a few ‘wee drams’ both at the whisky distilleries and on board.

We meet downstairs in a private lounge at the Balmoral Hotel to drop off our luggage and I happily tuck into some of the best shortbread I have ever tasted. Meanwhile, we ‘meet and greet’ our fellow passengers and our train host, Jerry. We are 32 guests in all, from all corners of the world. >>

Eilean Donan Castle

Royal Mile, Edinburgh

Ben Nevis mountain

After the formalities, we make our way to the train platform, where I hear the faint sound of pipes. Being a huge fan of bagpipes – I get choked up whenever I hear them – I quickly make my way to the front of the group so I can follow right behind the piper. He leads us all the way down the platform and onto the train where we are handed a glass of champagne from a silver tray. With tears rolling down my cheeks and a grin from ear to ear, I know this moment will always be one of my best travel memories.

The four days that follow truly surpass my expectations. The handsome burgundy and gold exterior of the train and the lovingly restored vintage carriages with polished brass and decorative woodwork create a nostalgic feeling. It’s easy to remain riveted by the scenery as it’s a bit of an undulating meditation watching the countryside hurtle along. The bright yellow fields of canola alongside the green pastures and purple heather are mesmerising and I come to realise that to truly appreciate the variety of the terrain you need to experience it on the ground.

A luxury train journey is an intimate hotel on wheels where you get to know your fellow travellers as time passes with good wines and thought-provoking conversation.

The food is unanimously excellent and the service outstanding. The crew knew our names from day one and by day two, also knew our preferred beverage whether it was a flat white at breakfast or an 18-year-old single malt whisky at cocktail hour. You would have to look very hard to find fault with this train. I did hear a few comments about the size of the cabins, but this is a train after all; there is only so much width to play with. My advice is to

pack light, though they did store our suitcases for us, and there is also storage space under the beds. My husband and I found the cabins very comfortable, and he is two meters tall. The ensuite was thoughtfully laid out with high-quality organic toiletries and the shower’s water pressure was excellent.

The daytime excursions run the gamut from private castle tours, often times chatting with the duke or duchess of the castle, to whisky tasting and clay pigeon shooting (so much fun and easier than I expected). In the evenings after dinner we gathered in the observation car for entertainment, which ranged from lively folk music to a highlander regaling us with dramatic tales of the past. On our final night, we celebrated with live music and Scottish dancing on the train platform, a perfect ending to a perfect trip.

While in days gone by it may have been the budget traveller who rode the train while the well-heeled chose to fly, the golden age of rail travel is back. This is a wonderful way to slow down and enjoy the journey. A true luxury.

The Details

For a private journey through Scotland with Abercrombie & Kent, consider A Scottish Sojourn, priced from $10,355 per pers``on. The nine-day tour includes hotel accommodation, services of A&K Guardian Angel, breakfast daily, private transfers and transport by luxury vehicle, daily sightseeing with expert private guides, and entrance fees. A&K ’s nine-day small-group journey Scotland: Edinburgh & the Highlands is priced from $10,285 per person, twin share, with a maximum group size of 18. Rates for the Belmond Royal Scotsman five-day Classic Splendours journey start at $9630 per person. For more information, contact Abercrombie & Kent on 1300 590 317 or visit abercrombiekent.com.au.

Bagpipes in Sydney

If you love bagpipes, enjoy a genuine Scottish experience at the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo, coming to Sydney’s ANZ Stadium on October 17-19. Witness the largest show of its kind, featuring more than 1500 performers, including pipers, drummers and dancers, that will leave you mesmerised. Set against a full-size replica backdrop of Edinburgh Castle, this is a show not to be missed. edinburghtattoosydney.com.au

| MELBOURNE

United Places Botanic Gardens

TWO-BEDROOM GARDEN SUITE

Size: 86 square metres incl. terrace / Price: From $1050 per night / Reviewed by: Madelin Tomelty / Details: unitedplaces.com.au

Hotel

I had never heard of a ‘home hotel’ until I stayed at United Places Botanic Gardens in Melbourne’s affluent suburb of South Yarra. With just 12 suites across three floors and no true communal spaces, the property feels more like an exclusive, luxury apartment building than a hotel, and that’s precisely the point. An interesting reimagining of the boutique hotel experience, United Places’ small physical footprint means the hotel forgoes the fivestar amenities luxury travellers often expect – a spa, gym, restaurants – and instead relies on the design, comfort factor, service and location for its impact. It’s no surprise, then, that each of these elements are executed so well. United Places’ discrete entrance is the first departure from the usual hotel arrival rigmarole. Blink and you’ll miss the modernist, concrete facade and heavy black door with a doorbell just like… you

got

it,

someone’s home.

From the moment I stepped foot inside United

Places I was transported one hour south of Melbourne to another hotel – Jackalope on the Mornington Peninsula. Design firm CARR is behind the architecture and interiors at both hotels, and the same moody, masculine and oh-so-Melbourne style can be found at both properties. There isn’t a lobby or reception desk at United Places, but rather a low-lit, bare corridor, where we were greeted by a ‘butler’. She briskly checked us in using nothing but an iPad, and then whisked us up to our second-floor suite.

Suite

Our suite features two bedrooms, each with its own ensuite, making it ideal for two friends, two couples or a mother-daughter trip (my situation). It’s spacious and looks north across Domain Road and to the verdant Royal Botanic Gardens. Inside, the space is a little dark, with the main source of light coming from the balcony, but this does add a certain warmth.

The master is generous in size, with a large, black sunken bath at the road-side of the suite, looking out through floor-to-ceiling windows to the gardens. The beds are custom-made and feature organic cotton sheets, and there are overhead rain showers and luxurious Le Labo Santal 33 products in the ensuites. The suite contains a well-equipped kitchen (along with laundry and kitchen utilities) and a minibar stocked with local produce and 200ml bottles of the world’s best single malt whisky, Sullivans Cove, exclusive to United Places. Just don’t expect any complimentary snacks, though, even with a room rate of over $1000 a night.

Eat In

While United Places doesn’t technically have its own restaurant, Matilda is located at street level through a separate entrance, and hotel guests get priority bookings. Melbourne chef Scott Pickett serves up dishes like Tartlet of Salmon Roe with Bonito Cream; Whole New Zealand Flounder with White Grape and Karkalla; and a 200-gram Retired Breeding Cow Porterhouse. An in-room dining menu is also available. Complimentary breakfast each morning is prepared at Matilda and delivered to your room by the butler.

Locale

The property is a celebration of South Yarra’s local life, and its position directly opposite Melbourne’s 36-hectare Royal Botanic Gardens is a big drawcard. The hotel is also ideally located to explore South Yarra’s swanky boutiques, art galleries, cocktail lounges and eclectic bistros on Toorak Road and Chapel Street, a 10-minute drive away.

Special Touches

In-house butlers are on-call around the clock, catering to guests’ every need, from valet laundry service to a private picnic set-up in the Botanic Gardens. Each evening we found a card left in our suite letting us know the weather conditions for the following day, and after dinner a pot of relaxing herbal tea would arrive, just like Mum would have made at home. It’s the little things.

The Knickerbocker

COHAN SUITE

Size: 51-65 square metres / Price: From US$600 (about A$855) per night / Reviewed by: Kate Symons / Details: theknickerbocker.com

Hotel

Even amid the chaos of Times Square, in Manhattan’s Midtown neighbourhood, The Knickerbocker’s striking Beaux-Art facade stands out. A Leading Hotels of the World property, ‘The Knick’, as it is affectionately known, was built in 1906 and has been credited, in part, with transforming the crossroads of 42nd Street and Broadway from sleepy corner – if you can believe it – to the city’s most famous tourist attraction. For the glitterati of the time, The Knick was the place to be seen, although the onset of Prohibition brought the purple patch to an end 15 years later. After a long stint as an office block, the building was designated a New York City landmark in 1988 and, following a twoyear, US$230 million renovation, reopened as The Knickerbocker in 2015. The interior was gutted, but the grand facade remains intact. The result is a sleek hotel under the big, bright lights of New York City.

Suite

It is stunning to me that, despite the activity occurring right below my window, I am not bothered by noise in the slightest during my stay. Ten out of 10 to The Knickerbocker

for soundproofing, and that’s just the beginning. The Knickerbocker has 330 guestrooms, including 27 Junior Suites and four Tribute Suites. Regardless of your room style, 3.6-metre ceilings, 2.4-metre doors and 1.8-metre windows create a welcome sense of space in vast contrast to the

vigorous energy of street level. On the 16th floor, the Cohen Suite, named for the great American playwright George M Cohen, oozes sophistication with a neutral palette brought to life by luxurious textures and metallic accents. Speaking of luxurious, the grand marble bathroom provides a welcome retreat from the 42nd-Street commotion and, while this great city may never sleep, you’ll certainly want to thanks to the Stearns & Foster Euro-top bed.

Locale

Midtown hardly needs an introduction. To some, it is Manhattan’s beating heart while others will avoid the area, particularly the neon jungle of Times Square, at all costs. One thing is for sure, this lively neighbourhood is in the thick of the action. Just minutes on foot from star-studded Broadway, beautiful Bryant Park and all your Fifth Avenue shopping needs, The Knickerbocker is wonderful choice for travellers keen for the quintessential tourist experience.

Eat In

Charlie Palmer at The Knick is the hotel’s signature restaurant, serving up what they call ‘Honest American Cuisine’. With the inclusion of dishes such as Maine Lobster, Upstate Farms Pasta Primavera, and Hudson Valley Duck, who am I to argue? And hey, I’m not one to argue anyway when the food is so lipsmackingly satisfying. Adjacent to the hotel lobby, Jake’s Coffee Roasters provides great cafe fare and plenty of grab-and-go options for those with little more than a New York minute to spare.

Special Touches

The Knickerbocker has been credited as the birthplace of the martini and, although the attribution is hotly debated, it’s the perfect excuse to place an order. If you need an excuse, that is. St Cloud is The Knick’s rooftop bar and even in a city jam-packed with bars on high, this is a standout. Ivy-covered walls and strings of sparkling fairy lights create a romantic oasis amid the surrounding concrete. Just add Champagne. Or gin, as it were.

Hotel

Andaz Maui at Wailea Resort

PREMIER SUITE

Size: 167 square metres / Price: From $2012 per night / Reviewed by Richard Bunting / Details: hyatt.com/brands/andaz

The Andaz Maui was the first Andaz Resort by Hyatt, opening in 2013 following a US$90 million renovation of the beachfront property, formerly operating as the Renaissance Wailea Beach Resort. Designed by the award-winning Rockwell Group, Andaz Maui is a celebration of Hawaiian culture, a commitment to the brand’s ethos of giving guests the experience of living like a local. Emphasis has been placed on opening the resort up to its natural environment, which is a welcome touch in a place like this. On arrival, the grand bridgeway entrance and the lobby lounge, where you can run your toes through the sandpit during check in, makes for a memorable welcome. The resort is set on six beachfront hectares so the view from the lobby, across cascading infinity pools towards Mokapu Beach and the glistening waters of the Pacific Ocean, certainly draw your attention. The resort has 301 rooms including 35 suites and 11 enormous villas, all located within easy reach of the pool and beach.

Suite

In keeping with the spirit of the location, my Premier Suite, like all rooms, adopts a sophisticated beachside feel with neutral tones and splashes of soft colour to complement the great outdoors. Speaking of the great outdoors, floor-to-ceiling windows open onto a large balcony and, with the sun shining through, this is a perfect place to relax. Next to a modest kitchenette, the huge living room features a couch big enough for the Brady Bunch while the master bedroom continues the spacious theme and boasts a beautifully soft bed fit for a king and his queen. The bathroom is well designed and user-friendly, and even I am impressed by the magnificent bathtub. I am not a bath guy, but my wife was delighted.

Locale

Andaz is located in the resort hub of Wailea on the south shore of Maui, about 40 minutes from Kahului Airport. For those who wish to explore beyond Andaz’s unique grounds, you will be spoilt for choice with both land and water activities available. Hiking, sailing and

snorkelling are among the attractions, while the 36-hole Wailea Golf Resort is just a threekilometre transfer away. Even closer, The Shops at Wailea are worth exploring.

Eat In

The Andaz has four restaurants/bars. Ka’ana Kitchen offers a farm-to-plate menu of sumptuous meals. Produce is fresh and local, and I can highly recommend the Berkshire Pork Belly. For a quick bite, casual lunch or easy dinner, try the Lehua Lounge or Bumbye Beach Bar. Both are relaxing venues in which to

unwind while enjoying an afternoon drink. For a fine-dining experience, be sure to prebook a table at Morimoto Maui. Here, highly acclaimed chef Masaharu Morimoto serves a fusion of Western and Japanese cuisine to satisfy any palate.

Special Touches

The resort offers many thoughtful touches and booking a suite or villa will give you direct access to plenty of them. Complimentary benefits include a surfing lesson, spa treatments, food credits and airport transfers.

13 NIGHTS

BY LUXURY TRAVEL

Your next adventure, straight from our pages

17 NIGHTS

AZAMARA NZ VOYAGE LONDON & IRELAND

Experience the fantastic natural wonders, city sights and Maori culture on Azamara’s countryintensive cruise to New Zealand.

A$5,999pp

TWIN SHARE

Travel dates

23 FEBRUARY – 11 MARCH 2020

Inclusions

• 15-night cruise from Sydney to Auckland on board Azamara Journey with ports of call at Milford Sound (cruising), Doubtful Sound (cruising), Oban, Dunedin, Akaroa, Kaikoura, Picton, Wellington, Napier, Gisborne, Tauranga and Bay of Islands

• International airfare from Auckland to Australia

• 2 nights’ post-cruise accommodation, Auckland

• One-way private airport transfer, Auckland

Witness the famed charm of London and Dublin, while also venturing to the lesser-known British and Irish ports on this 14-day Silversea Cloud Cruise.

A$10,299pp

TWIN SHARE

Travel dates

18 – 31 MAY 2020

Inclusions

• Return International economy airfares from Sydney to London, Dublin to Sydney

• 1 night’s pre-cruise accommodation at The Park Tower Knightsbridge hotel, London.

• 10-night London Tower to Dublin Cruise on Silversea Cloud

• 2 nights’ post-cruise accommodation at the Dylan Hotel, Dublin, including breakfast

• 24hr Dublin city sightseeing pass

• Private airport to hotel transfers London & Dublin

*Prices are per person, based on twin share, in Australian dollars including taxes and fees, Cruise departs 23rd February 2020, cruise fare based on a Guaranteed Club Interior Stateroom. All other cabin categories are at an additional surcharge. Flight is to ^Sydney other arrival points available at a surcharge. Prices for alternative departure dates may vary. Specials may be withdrawn or varied without notice. Whilst all information is correct at the time of publication, offers are subject to change. For full terms & conditions, contact your MTA Cruise Expert.

*Prices are per person, based on twin share, in Australian dollars including taxes and fees, Cruise departs 19th May 2020, cruise fare based on a Vista Suite. All other cabin categories are at an additional surcharge. Flight is ex ^Sydney other departure points available at a surcharge. Prices for alternative departure dates may vary. Fares may be withdrawn or varied. Whilst all information is correct at the time of publication, offers are subject to change. For full terms & conditions, contact your MTA Cruise Expert.

FOR MORE DETAILED PACKAGES

EXPERIENCE A BEYOND-LUXURY HIDEAWAY

Nested in the collection of islands that form the Noonu Atoll, a 45-minute seaplane flight north of Malé, Velaa Private Island was created with a simple idea – to bring together the best of the Maldives on a single island. A turquoise ocean, vibrant coral reefs, and pristine beaches. A combination of Maldivian structures and modern architecture. Local delicacies and gourmet cuisine prepared by world-class chefs. And most importantly, rest, peace and relaxation. At Velaa, luxury is more than wealth or surplus. Luxury is a state of mind.

velaaprivateisland.com