A FRENCH EXPERT'S GUIDE TO THE 'CITY OF LIGHT'
DIVING INTO UNDER-EXPLORED PALAU , CHASING WATERFALLS IN ICELAND AND TOURING TUNISIA WITH A FEMALE GUIDE, PLUS THE LAVISH RAFFLES LONDON AT THE OWO , OUTBACK ADVENTURES AT BULLO RIVER STATION & A PHOTO ESSAY ON CARTAGENA
Just 24 guests will explore Sri Lanka by air, land and rail accompanied by an expert Tour Manager and Tour Doctor from Australia. Everything has been considered and included.
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The Luxury Travel Gold List Awards from Luxury Travel magazine is the benchmark for travel accolades in Australia and across the globe, recognising the unique and dynamic nature of the luxury traveller seeking to explore the world responsibly and sustainably.
Nestled along Fiji's pristine sandy shores, our exclusive resort within a resort, Club InterContinental, is poised high on a plateau overlooking Natadola Bay. Enjoy personalized service in your one-bedroom or two-bedroom Club InterContinental suite set amid lush gardens and privileged access to the Club InterContinental Lounge. A celebration of exclusivity and style, one of the nest luxury escapes in Fiji.
Whether you’re looking for the ultimate in exclusive luxury, a dream family holiday where all the details are taken care of, an indulgent golf break, or a romantic spa getaway, there’s a tailored package just for you.
Book now at ji.intercontinental.com/booking or scan the QR code above Email luxurylifestyle. ji@ihg.com Phone +679 673 3300 or +679 910 3750
cover story reveals why the French capital never goes out of style, and is more desirable than ever thanks to the 2024 Olympic Games
natural drama of southern Iceland’s fairytale landscapes
River cruising opens up the world of travel like nothing else. From iconic cities to hidden gem towns, you will be completely immersed in incredible destinations throughout Europe, Egypt, Southeast Asia, India and Peru. Uniworld’s river cruises are unmatched, with excellent service, exclusive excursions, delicious farm-to-table cuisine, and a fleet of floating boutique hotels, each a unique representation of the destinations it sails.
CULINARY EXCELLENCE
Dine on a medley of world-class, locally-sourced cuisine, accompanied by included premium wines and spirits.
INTIMATE & RELAXING EXPERIENCE
With an average of 120 guests onboard, a river cruise ship offers guests a far more intimate experience and more personalised service.
CULTURALLY IMMERSIVE EXPERIENCES
Travel through the heart of Europe, Egypt, Peru, India, or Southeast Asia, with authentic experiences awaiting you at each stop.
BEAUTIFUL PLACES TO DWELL FOR THE DESIGN DILETTANTE
120 A Rich Reservation
Checking in to the freshly minted Raffles London at the OWO, occupying a heritage building with a rich history
128 Promised Land
A stay at the Northern Territory’s remote, and conservation-driven, Bullo River Station
140 Suite Life
Art rules at Bowie House in Fort Worth, Texas
146 Suite Life
Kimpton Margot Sydney turns up the design stakes in its heritage home
150 Design Notes
A striking example of modern hotel design
A MENU OF INDULGENT GOURMET & WELLNESS EXPERIENCES
158 The Heart of Japan Fine dining and onsen soaking unite on a nature-based hike through Japan
166 The Disconnect Effect
Taking time out, with a few well-deserved treats, at Gold Coast hinterland wellness retreat Gwinganna
174 Ray of Light
Vietnam’s TIA Wellness Resort is a leader in the country’s pursuit of happiness
180 Passion on a Plate
The South African restaurant winning awards for its African-Japanese flavours
186 Rendez-vous
A beautiful place to gather and dine
188 Quiet Contemplation
A Q&A with contemporary Stoic philosopher Ryan Holiday
“What a pleasure it has been to work more closely with the inspiring people that make up the travel industry over the last six months.”
And just like that, reader voting opens for the 2024 Luxury Travel Gold List Awards! I’ve been watching from the sidelines over the last six months as our team has been busy with preparations for our second GLA program under Indesign Media, and it’s clear it’s going to be a memorable one. Be sure to cast your vote by the 29 August cut-off to ensure your say counts, and pick up a copy of our summer issue, on stands in December, to discover the winners.
Alongside all of this awards activity, our digital team has been working around the clock on the huge, 12-month-long project that is the redesign and relaunch of luxurytravelmag.com.au. If you haven’t signed up for our weekly newsletter or connected with us on social media, be sure to do so – we will be revealing our gorgeous new website on our channels very soon.
Speaking of social media, the Indesign Media team has also been working on some exciting digital projects this year
thanks to our engagement of social media agency, Character Digital. Be sure to connect with us on Instagram (@luxurytravelau), Facebook (@luxurytravelmagazine), LinkedIn (/luxury-travel-magazine) and Pinterest (@luxurytravelau) to keep up to date with our inspirational content.
Lastly, on a personal note, I want to express what a pleasure it has been to work more closely with the inspiring people that make up the travel industry over the last six months. I recently held two networking events in Melbourne and Sydney for women in travel and design –my two great passions – to connect, catch up and collaborate.
I am constantly in awe of the women I see every day doing incredible things – both personally and professionally – all amid the immense demands of modern life.
As always, I hope you enjoy this latest issue of Luxury Travel I could be biased, but I think it’s a knockout.
KAVITA LALA PUBLISHER
From the wilds of Africa and the ancient wonders of India to the cultural splendours of Europe and South America, our Luxury Tailor-Made Journeys allow you to see the world exactly how you want to see it, on an itinerary fashioned for you and your companions by the experts. For over 60 years, Abercrombie & Kent has been a pioneer in the world of luxury travel, redefi ning the notion of what is possible on holiday and delivering travel experiences that change the way travellers see the world, and themselves. From the kinds of luxury accommodation you’ll love to the landscapes we know you’ll treasure and the specifi c cultural immersions you’ll fi nd rewarding, every moment is expertly curated to ensure a once-in-a-lifetime inspiring adventure that you’ll never forget.
Visit www.abercrombiekent.com.au, call Abercrombie & Kent on 1300 589 717 or talk to your travel advisor.
“This issue, I embrace the thrilling adventures of the Northern Territory courtesy of a very special luxury homestead where 4WDs and helicopters are the preferred modes of transport…”
Although I try to avoid clichés at all costs, it is without apology that I make this statement: there is a certain je ne sais quoi about Paris. Even if you’re not a Francophile like me, you can’t deny there is something special about the French capital –something that causes the city to transcend fleeting travel trends and ‘What’s Hot’ destination lists year in, year out. As Paris welcomes the 2024 Olympic Games, there is no better time for French expert and part-time French resident, Susan Gough Henly, to articulate why the ‘City of Light’ never goes out of style. “If you take the time to look around, you’ll discover a rich lode of culture and beauty – and the simple art de vivre – hiding in plain sight. This is the luxury of Paris,” Susan writes.
Just as experiencing Paris is not just about casting your eyes on the Eiffel Tower and Arc de Triomphe, experiencing any destination authentically is about scratching beneath the surface and getting to know its people, lifestyle and culture. This issue, we do that as we catch a glimpse of life in the northern African country of Tunisia through the eyes of a female tour guide, try our hand at the ancient Japanese ritual of onsen bathing, and embrace the thrilling adventures of the Northern Territory courtesy of an outback homestead where 4WDs and helicopters are the preferred modes of transport.
As always, though, we prove that you don’t have to sacrifice luxury to travel authentically. From the opulent new Raffles London at The OWO and the maximalist feast for the senses that is New York City’s Warren Street Hotel, to the enviable luxury of the Four Seasons Explorer in little-explored Palau, there is a covetable collection of lodgings to be found within these pages.
Shifting gears, excitement is mounting in the Indesign Media office, with reader voting now open for the 2024 Luxury Travel Gold List Awards. This is your opportunity to have your say, so head to luxurytravelmag.com.au/the-gold-list to cast your vote from our list of jury-nominated finalists, with the esteemed winners revealed in our next issue.
Finally, I am absolutely thrilled (and relieved, for our web developers’ sake) to announce our brand-new website will soon be live and kicking on luxurytravelmag.com.au. This sleek digital destination will bring the ultra-premium feel of our print magazine to your screens, and I can’t wait to see what you all think. Hopefully, like this issue, it inspires you to explore this beautiful planet of ours, authentically and in style.
MADELIN TOMELTY EDITOR
Luxury Travel Team
Publisher Kavita Lala kavita@luxurytravelmag.com.au
Editor Madelin Tomelty madelin@luxurytravelmag.com.au
Creative Director Sylvia Weimer sylvia@spacelabdesign.com
Brand + Partnerships Manager Richard Bunting richard@luxurytravelmag.com.au
General Enquiries media@luxurytravelmag.com.au
Production + Distribution Manager Anna Carmody production@luxurytravelmag.com.au
Assistant Editor + Sub Editor
Natasha Dragun
Contributors
Belinda Craigie, Rajni George, Susan Gough Henly, Ute Junker, Tatyana Leonov, Jocelyn Pride, Susan Skelly, Kate Symons
Events Manager Nadia Adelstein nadia@indesign.com.au
Accounts Vivia Felice vivia@indesign.com.au
Indesign Media Executive Team
CEO Raj Nandan raj@indesign.com.au
Group Operations Manager
Sheree Bryant sheree@indesign.com.au
Online Manager
Radu Enache radu@indesign.com.au
Head Office
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Acknowledgement of Country
We acknowledge the Traditional Owners of the land on which we live and work and recognise their continued custodianship and connection to the land, waters and community. We pay our respects to them and their Elders past, present and emerging.
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Cover image
The drama of Paris’ La basilique du SacréCœur, just one of the monuments that will star in the 2024 Paris Olympic Games © Sami Sert/iStock
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Some of the talented writers whose inspiring stories feature in this issue
From being helicoptered into an exclusive seaside resort on the Turkish coast and glamping in Greenland to the Icelandic president preparing her meals, Tatyana appreciates the term ‘true luxury’. She pens feature stories for prestigious publications such as The Sydney Morning Herald, Sunday Life, BBC Travel, and of course Luxury Travel, and jets off to far-flung destinations as often as she can, all in the name of research. Read her stories on Rotterdam (page 74) and southern Iceland (page 102).
Jocelyn Pride is a multiaward-winning travel writer and photographer who enjoys seeking out the paths less trodden. Travelling from Antarctica to the Arctic, and numerous places in between, Jocelyn’s insightful stories have been published across a range of Australian and international magazines and newspapers. Jocelyn is an outdoorsy type, with a passion for wildlife, history, adventure and cultural experiences. Read her story on hiking through Japan on page 158.
Sydney-based journalist and award-winning magazine editor Susan Skelly specialises in arts, science and travel. Her fascinating website, excessallareas.com.au, is a celebration of all that’s fabulous. The former editor of the Qantas in-flight magazine, Susan is never happier than when plotting her next story and reporting on new trends that inspire the way we travel and where we go. Her resolution for 2024 is to travel light and linger longer. Read her story on Canada on page 82.
Kate Symons is a travel and lifestyle writer with a particular interest in meeting the people that make the place. It’s about connection. In this issue of Luxury Travel, Kate’s work will take you to Vietnam and Texas, destinations with seemingly few similarities, yet both exuding a wonderfully on-brand welcome; the kind that invites you to stay a while. Read her stories on Houston’s luxe hotel Bowie House (page 140) and Vietnam’s transformative TIA Wellness Resort (page 174).
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Meals, activities and excursions included in the fare
Peeking from jewel-toned jungle where the forested mountains of the Sierra Madre Occidental meet the Pacific Ocean, the One&Only Mandarina is arguably Mexico’s hottest postcode. Some say it’s North America’s – in the inaugural World’s 50 Best Hotels awards in 2023, it snatched the top spot on the continent, and eighth place globally. It’s not hard to see why. A stay here is like paying homage to Mother Nature, your backdrop a dreamy union of soaring mountain peaks, sandy shores, rolling green flatlands and that lush tropical rainforest. e architect-designed villas and treehouses are barefoot luxe at its finest, which means you can check in to drop-dead-gorgeous spaces (each with a private plunge pool) and sleep soundly knowing the team has worked hard to preserve the area’s rich biodiversity and Indigenous heritage (many rock carvings by the local Cora and Huichol cultures are present across the property). We wouldn’t blame you for spending days hopping between garden-to-plate restaurants, bars offering mezcal tastings and indulgent spa treatments. But if you do manage to tear yourself away, snorkelling, whalewatching and beach horse-riding await.
oneandonlyresorts.com
Some 30 years in the making, the first Soneva Secret resort has opened in the Maldives, setting a new standard in intuitive, personalised service. Each private villa (there are only 14) is surrounded by untouched nature and attended by a dedicated team of three, which includes a ‘Barefoot Guardian’ and private chef. The unique lagoon villas and the Castaway – the Maldives’ first floating villa – will also be available to reserve later in the year. The first resort in the Makunudhoo Atoll, Soneva Secret comes with nifty design features including bedrooms with retractable roofs for stargazing, a zipline to the elevated wine cellar terrace and a resident astronomer to help navigate the skies.
soneva.com
Red Carnation Hotels has long been known for its opulent aesthetic when it comes to design. And now the brand has a new offering in its portfolio – its first in Scotland. Welcome to Edinburgh’s 100 Princes Street, inspired by the adventures of Scottish explorers who once frequented the building, formerly the headquarters of the Royal Overseas League. Styled after a chic private members’ club, the heritage building has been remodelled with 30 rooms and suites, each kitted out in lush jewel tones and replete with custom-made furnishings, fabrics and commissioned artworks by local creatives, including five tartans by revered Scottish designer Araminta Campbell. There’s also a standout restaurant, The Wallace, which comes with Edinburgh Castle views and cuisine by South African chef, Willhelm Maree. Don’t miss the chance to try the hotel’s collection of rare Scottish whiskeys.
100princes-street.com
Ahidden entrance leads guests up the winding driveway of Okoro Villa, which recently opened on the outskirts of Nelson on New Zealand’s South Island. The pared-back property comes with space to sleep eight across three suites and a luxury treehouse, with other niceties including bespoke meals crafted with regional produce by the resident chef, a heated infinity pool and multiple outdoor dining and relaxation spaces. Perched at the ledge of a small plateau, the villa’s design intertwines its contemporary and natural details to bring luxe modernity to the iconic landscape, offering sweeping views of Tasman Bay and Abel Tasman National Park’s coastline.
okorovilla.com
Japan’s luxury hotel scene has been given a style injection with the opening of Six Senses Kyoto, drawing design inspiration from the Heian period (794-1185), when the city was the capital of the country. Step into the lobby and you’re greeted by a jaw-dropping folding screen featuring 504 hand-crafted Rakuyaki tiles symbolising the silhouette of sacred Mount Kurama; other touches throughout the property include use of wood and natural materials and meandering paths through inner Zen gardens. Like all Six Senses hotels, wellness is a focus: there are sleep consultants on call, health screenings that analyse your biomarkers, watsu spa treatments and multi-day retreats to help you detox. We love the fact that the Six Senses Kyoto’s dedicated Sustainability Fund sees a per centage of the hotel’s revenue allotted to Biotope Network Kyoto and Council for Kyoto Traditional Forest Culture.
sixsenses.com
Once the cherished home of the noble Bonci-Casuccini family, this regal estate has undergone a two-year transformation that sees its grand buildings restored to their former glory, while adding everything you’d expect of a luxe Italian escape. Backdropped by vineyards outside Montepulciano, the heritage site is a beguiling union of frescoes and antiques, with carved travertine, terracotta floors, handmade brick vaults and exposed chestnut beams. Taste your way around Tuscany (with Asian overtones) at La Via Della Seta restaurant, then head to the bar to sip cocktails that pay homage to Marco Polo’s experiences along the Silk Road. You’re in the neighbourhood of Florence, the Chianti wine region and Pisa. But with grounds like this, why would you want to leave?
precisehotels.com
Mediterranean calling? Greece hears you, with the country set to welcome a swathe of new hotels and resorts across its archipelago in 2024. Front and centre is Gundari Resort on the Greek island of Folegandros, where accommodations come with shimmering views over the Aegean Sea and activities range from cruising on a private yacht to Greek cooking classes and hiking to whitewashed villages. One&Only is freshly minted on Kéa Island, with its 63 cliffside villas each starring private infinity pools – tear yourself away to enjoy archaeology sessions, diving through historic wrecks and cycling to ancient ruins. DEOS Mykonos is like a lesson in Myconian design, from the sculptural white villas to the multiple pools and restaurants that channel the spirit of the island. Numo is also another newcomer to Mykonos, drawing design inspiration from the ’60s and ’70s with an added flair of modernity. Over on Crete, the celebrated Blue Palace has been a legend on the island for two decades. Today, it’s reimagined as the Phaea Blue Palace boutique hotel (with 47 bungalows and suites) and the Rosewood Blue Palace, debuting in 2025 and promising an ultra-luxe island escape. Everyone’s favourite Greek Island of Santorini has a new offering in the form of adults-only Santo Mine Oia, overlooking Ammoundi Bay; while King Jason Zante features overwater suites on Zakynthos. Phew!
santocollection.gr, kingjasonzante.com, gundari.com, oneandonlyresorts.com, numomykonos.com, deosmykonos.gr, bluepalace.gr
Renowned conservation-led luxury travel company &Beyond has unveiled its latest venture in South America with the introduction of an expedition yacht in the Galapágos Islands. Christened the &Beyond Galapágos Explorer, the 38-metre vessel caters to a maximum of 12 guests in four cabins and two suites. The yacht, which made her maiden voyage in June 2024, offers two seven-night itineraries, each showcasing the best of the Ecuadorian archipelago and featuring activities such as snorkelling, hiking and birdwatching. Each voyage will be accompanied by two expert guides, who will educate passengers on the UNESCO World Heritage Site that boasts world-renowned flora and fauna, including species such as the giant tortoise and marine iguana.
andbeyond.com
European river cruising has never looked so enticing, in large part thanks to APT revealing its next-generation luxury fleet. Meet APT Solara and APT Ostara, set to launch in 2025 with styling by renowned Melbournebased architects Hecker Guthrie. Novel features include the world-first, state-of-the-art Grüner Bar & Dining – one of six restaurants and bars on each ship – replete with a unique hydraulic system that can ascend to the sun deck, offering guests 360 views. Each vessel will accommodate 154 guests, with one crew member for every 2.5 guests. The upcoming MS Estrela on Portugal’s Douro River, and the Mekong Serenity, which began sailing in Southeast Asia in 2023, are also part of APT’s expanding portfolio, promising bespoke experiences and intimate settings.
aptouring.com.au
If you want to see the depths of the world without getting wet, you’ve come to the right place. Scenic Eclipse II has debuted Scenic Neptune II, a Triton 660/9 AVA underwater submersible that gives you a front-row seat to marine life in the destinations you’re visiting. The ship launched its inaugural voyage from Valparaiso, Chile, before making its way across the Pacific. On board the ship, guests can also make the most of two helicopters and four seabobs, equipped to guide voyagers below the ocean surface. The submersible is designed for immersive underwater experiences with 270-degree views and a diving capacity to 100 metres below the surface.
scenic.com.au
12 days from $19,880 pp*
South Korea is both modern and vibrant, with an intriguing history and unique ancient traditions. Experience a land steeped in contrasts on a Tailor-Made Journey covering all the highlights. Visit ornate temple and palace complexes illustrating the country’s artistic history and culture. Learn about the more recent conflict of the Korean War and the divisions on the peninsula that remain today at the DMZ. Immerse yourself in the practices of Buddhism with the chance to stay at a UNESCO listed temple. Escape to the dramatic volcanic scenery of Jeju Island and lose yourself among the bustling markets and street food vendors of Seoul.
Journey Highlights
Discover inner peace as you sample the monastic life, spending a night in an historic temple
Don a traditional Korean hanbok robe
Enter a sacred Buddhist realm at the UNESCO World-Heritage listed Bulguksa Temple
Soak up panoramic vistas hiking amid wildflowers, trickling streams and rugged cliffs on volcanic Mt Halla
Witness the lifestyle and culture of the Haenyeo women divers of Jeju
Learn to make authentic kimchi, Korea’s famous fermented cabbage dish
The first fully electric ‘floating hotel’ has made its United Arab Emirates debut following the Dubai International Boat Show. Presented by World Hospitality Yachts, Y Le Yacht Dubai was conceived by Jean-Pierre Heim, Paul Bensabata and Tony Vamvakidi, with the intent of bobbing around the world’s warm waters. Features unique to the tropical version of the yacht include open-air port and starboard decks; sketches also show an underwater observation room with windows fixed into both sides of the hull. The tropical yacht takes its design inspiration from the flying fish. Activity options when staying on the Dubai-based boat will include marine diving and other sports activities. Y Le Yacht will be available for private rental of the entire floating hotel with tailor-made options available to enhance the group experience.
y-leyacht.com
Newly back on Asia’s rails after a four-year hiatus, Belmond’s Eastern & Oriental Express train is better than ever. With the relaunch, the luxe train will feature fresh immersive experiences through Malaysia. Decorated chef André Chiang, with two Michelin stars and a placement in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants under his belt, will also join the team as culinary curator, crafting a menu that captures the diverse terroir of Southeast Asia. At the Piano Bar Carriage and Observation Car, guests can sip on botanical-infused beverages and vintage cocktails conceptualised by global creative hospitality consultancy, The Cocktail Professor. All this, while enjoying a new itinerary that includes an excursion into the Taman Negara National Park, where guests can choose between three activities: an educational tour of the park to learn about the endangered Malayan Tigers, a wildlife photography class or an exploration of the rainforest’s ancient caves. Meanwhile, the carriages aboard the Eastern & Oriental Express have been remodelled and boast eight sleeping carriages, two restaurants and that bar.
belmond.com
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In your home, as you plan your adventures, be surrounded by beautifully designed pieces inspired by all corners of the globe
Compiled by NATASHA DRAGUN
Want to cover your floor in something, well, off-kilter? You’ve come to the right place. With its unique and distinctive shape, the Alter Rug makes a captivating statement. Handwoven with natural, undyed wool, long panels are artfully arranged in an askew manner and meticulously stitched together, creating a visually striking piece. Untamed tassels add a touch of vibrancy and movement. RRP $1,289.90
fermliving.com
Minimalist organic design has guided the sculpting of the Inoda + Sveje DC09 chair. The results are smooth sculptural lines that complement the human form – put simply, these are a delight to sit on, and are just as pleasant for the eye as they are your body and home. Luxe wood, fine craftsmanship and contemporary styling unite. Available in oak, walnut or blackstained ash. RRP $4,400
greatdanefurniture.com
Achieve a reformer pilates studio experience in the comfort of your own home with the YR Studio, a bed that is loved in studios all over the world – engineered for the best possible at-home workout experience. The premium quality fixtures and fittings guarantee quick and seamless adjustment for a smooth session. Plus, it looks so good you can almost use it as an art installation in your home. RRP $4,195
yourreformer.com.au.com.au
Luxe Indonesian suar wood stars in the Pio Coffee Table, crafted to add warmth and organic charm to any living space – it’s at once modern and sophisticated, and yet is pared back and earthy. The classic oval surface guarantees smooth interactions with the table, lustrous with rich textures and grains individual to every piece made.
RRP $2,350
hermosaliving.com.au
This eye-catching Adeline Oak Marble Console side table is both practical and stylish, making it a must-have for any modern living space. Crafted from high-quality oak veneer and marble, it’s not only sturdy and durable but also exudes a sense of sophistication and elegance. We like it in a hallway, but it’s equally appealing in a bedroom or living area. RRP $1,299
ivory.madraslink.com.au
The Silo Atelier collection from Lambert & Fils inhabits many worlds in an instant – it’s at once mysterious, yet inviting; dreamy yet grounding. Above all, it gives good glow. The true magic lies in how its rhythmic curves shape light and space around it. The glam range is made using custom aluminium extrusions, and the modular uplight-downlight creates a theatrical yet sleek composition. POA livingedge.com.au
Spanish outdoor furniture specialist Vondom has worked with a stellar cast of international talent over the years, from Jean-Marie Massaud to Marcel Wanders and Eugeni Quitllet. The brand’s newest collection, Luna, spotlights the talent of architect and designer Ramón Esteve. The outdoor furniture portfolio nods to mid-century design greats to deliver thoroughly contemporary elegance, functionality and comfort via outdoor armchairs, sofas and tables. POA
vondom.com
When less is more in the bathroom, make a beeline for the Abbraccio range at Parisi. This collection embraces voluptuous and curvaceous forms, and celebrates artful craftsmanship that embraces functionality and contemporary elegance. It’s available in multiple colour and size options, and wows with warmth, texture and dimension. RRP $5,295
parisi.com.au
Fashionably luxe looks to pack for your journey
Compiled by NATASHA DRAGUN
Designer Christopher Esber doesn’t shy away from using sharp, geometric lines and earthy hues in his ranges. Case in point: his latest collection, straight from the runways of Paris Fashion Week. Don pieces like the Maison Bind Best and Maison Tailored Pant, cut from materials that reflect weathered textiles and textured tactility, with silhouettes that just work – in unconventional ways. RRP $1,450 (vest), $1,100 (pants)
christopheresber.com.au
If you’re a fan of the modern romantic narrative starring in fashion, you’ll be happy to hear that luxury brands are bringing it back – with gusto. Gucci’s latest range of eyewear gives feminine silhouettes a modern twist. Think glam cats eyes, oversized fits, textures, gems and pastel hues. Look no further than the Gucci Rivets sunglasses, which are pictured here in shiny transparent lilac with violet temples. Perfect for adding a touch of colour to your look over the cooler months. RRP $620
gucci.com
Purveyor of fine luggage Mullberry has expanded its travel range to include fourwheel suitcases, crafted from eco-scotch grain fabric – a hard-wearing, lightweight material – as well as leather from environmentally accredited tanneries. The collection comes in seven lush colours that make quite the statement, so you’re guaranteed to find your bag at first glance when it comes out on the carousel. RRP $3,975
mulberry.com
Applauded milliner Helen Kaminski has partnered with Australia’s Bábbarra Women’s Centre and two of their Indigenous artists, Elizabeth Wullumingu and Janet Marawarr, for her latest range of stylish headwear. Each artist created a unique interpretation of their traditional ancestral stories, which Kaminski then hand-printed onto fabrics in grounding colours. Each length of fabric is unique and linoleum block-printed by hand by the women of Arnhem Land to compose the Hk X Bábbarra Bucket Hat collection. RRP $425
helenkaminski.com.au
The two feminine souls behind the beloved Lake Como hotels Grand Hotel Tremezzo and Passalacqua (awarded the title of ‘Best Hotel in the World’ in 2023) have just unveiled a new chapter for one of the projects that is dearest to their heart: the online lifestyle boutique Sense of the Lake. To echo the familial sensibility of their homes, they have combined their gentle taste, love for beauty and eye for detail to curate a stylish edit of luxury accessories, clothing and homewares. The bespoke collection features custom-made pieces highlighting Italian designers like Chez Dede, Back Label, Bric’s, F.R.S. For Restless Sleepers, L.G.R., Le Niné, Mantero, Bottega Conticelli and Papusse. We love the ‘Edone Kimono’ from the Villa Sola Cabiati collection, and these stylish totes. RRP €1,500 (kimono), from €520 (tote)
senseofthelake.com
Helmed by three siblings, Australian-based jewellery brand Cushla Whiting’s latest o ering is Contours, released just in time to celebrate a decade in business. The stunning collection of 10 pieces is filled with sumptuous, topographic curves and is heavily inspired by the work of the late Pritzker-prize-winning architect Zaha Hadid while simultaneously balancing futurist and classical aesthetics. Don’t miss slipping a Contours Pendant around your neck. From $2,100
cushla.com.au
Fragrance house Creed can do no wrong when it comes to sexy scents. Enter the brand’s newest perfume, Queen of Silk. This intoxicating scent is inspired by the opulent lustre and ethereal elegance of silk, weaving together exotic whispers of Chinese osmanthus, decadent tuberose and Javanese patchouli that dance seductively with cedar, agarwood and the smouldering softness of Madagascan vanilla. This is a sensual testament to timeless refinement. RRP $469 (75ml)
creedperfume.com.au
Luxe gadgets to take with you on your adventures – or to look forward to when you get home
Compiled by NATASHA DRAGUN
Arguably the most legendary chronography on Earth is set to take on outer space with the launch of the OMEGA Speedmaster Moonwatch. The collector’s item comes with a rare white dial with black detailing, finished with a glossy lacquer – a first for the brand. Why white? The primary inspiration for this new look is the white and black colours of astronaut spacesuits – especially those used during extravehicular activity, such as spacewalks. An authentic connection after all, as the Speedmaster Moonwatch has been officially worn by NASA astronauts since 1965 and is known as the first watch worn on the Moon. Inside, meanwhile, the watch is driven by the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 3861 –the most up-to-date version of the legendary Calibre 321 that was trusted by astronauts on the Moon. RRP $13,450
omegawatches.com
At a time when the ultimate luxury is space and exclusivity, LG is giving you a stylish way to sidestep the crowds. The brand’s latest and greatest Bon Voyage is a customised ‘living space’ crafted to extend the quality of life you have at home out into nature. Redesigned to the size of a camping trailer, it can be decked out with various furniture and appliances, including a bed, refrigerator, electric stove, water purifier… and so much more. Its versatility allows for comfortable enjoyment anywhere, with the ability to be easily parked outdoors and connected to a car. All you need to do
Track your heart rate, sleep latency, night movement, respiratory rate and even fertility cycles with the Samsung Galaxy Ring, set to be launched by the company in August. This unobtrusive smart ring will monitor your health data and provide insights based on your metrics during the day and night – in essence, it crunches your physical wellbeing, mental wellbeing and sleep into a number, telling you how ready your body is for the day ahead. It will also come loaded with ‘booster cards’, designed to provide insights about health so you can stay invigorated throughout the day. POA
samsung.com
Bang & Olufsen is one of many high-end brands engaged with a creative rediscovering of its past. The Danish audio company’s Recreated Classics series takes icons from yesteryear and updates them for the modern era. The newest addition to the portfolio? The Beosystem 9000c music system – a meticulous update of the 1990s-era Beosound 9000 CD player – which brings the original digital compact disc format back to life and pairs it with the latest in speaker design via a pair of Beoloab 28 speakers. Expect this to go straight to the top of every CD aficionado’s wishlist. RRP US$55,000
bang-olufsen.com
Launched at Milan Design Week 2024, the Light Touch Turntable by London-based designers John Tree and Neal Feay is as stylish as it is ingenuous. The device has an automated arm to avoid scratching records and for seamlessly tuned high fidelity. And it looks as good as it sounds, featuring a sleek, minimal form in dusty pink CNC cut, polished and anodised aluminium. POA
johntree.net
German company Leica knows how to make quality cameras, and the latest mirrorless model, the SL3, doesn’t disappoint. This 60MP full-frame system combines cutting-edge technology with a userfriendly design, with features including a BSI CMOS image sensor, 5-axis IBIS, a new tilting touchscreen and OLED EVF, and the possibility to record internally in 8K at up to 30p. It’s also noticeably lighter and more compact than previous models, which means you don’t need to break your back when taking a happy snap. From $11,690
leica-camera.com
Immersive experiences and journeys created for genuine connection
Compiled by NATASHA DRAGUN
If you love channelling your inner explorer on cruise adventures through remote waters, you won’t want to miss the chance to jump aboard luxe Aqua Blu for the ship’s upcoming 2025 expeditions around some of the wildest parts of East Indonesia. The two new itineraries are the ‘Spice Islands, Raja Ampat and West Papua’ and ‘West Papua and Asmat Tribe Expedition’, giving guests the chance to explore lush jungles, impressive cave systems and vivid underwater ecosystems while meeting some of Indonesia’s Indigenous communities along the way. Snorkelling and diving excursions invite possible sightings of whale sharks, hammerhead sharks and other rare wildlife, while private tenders whisk guests deep into the jungle to discover local villages, interact with members of the Asmat tribe and, perhaps, spot endemic forest kangaroos.
aquaexpeditions.com
Every year, the planet’s top shutterbugs submit images to the World Photography Organisation to be judged. And the results of the 2024 awards are in, celebrating captured moments and stories that reveal people and places in a stunning new light. The prestigious ‘Photographer of the Year’ title was awarded to Juliette Pavy for her series Spiralkampagnen: Forced Contraception and Unintended Sterilisation of Greenlandic Women. Other accolades were handed out to the likes of Bulgarian snapper Valery Poshterov, whose photo (pictured here) took home the award for ‘Best Portraiture’. We can see why.
There are few better ways to start a day than watching dawn break over Uluru. And now there’s a new way to savour the start of the day in the heart of Australia thanks to the freshly minted ‘Sunrise Journeys’ by Maruku Arts. This applauded Aboriginal artists’ cooperative has launched a light and sound spectacle that uses the desert as a canvas, created in collaboration with three Anangu creatives: Selina Kulitja (Maruku Arts), Denise Brady (Kaltukatjara Art), and Valerie Brumby (Walkatjara Art). It also involves Anangu musician and composer, Jeremy Whiskey, and expert visual experience creator, Mandylights. Selina, Denise and Valerie composed a painting entitled Ngura Nganampa Wiru Mulapa (‘Our Country is Truly Beautiful’), depicting their deep shared connection to culture and the land. Sign up for the immersive experience and witness the Red Centre come alive through Indigenous art, music and narration.
maruku.com.au
An intimate palazzo situated on the iconic Grand Canal, Aman Venice is a year-round escape, with a host of new experiences and cultural events providing even more reasons to visit. Inspired by the city’s romantic essence, a bespoke two-hour ‘Perfume Olfactory Workshop’ with a local master nose is now exclusively available at the hotel. Journey through history and uncover the ancient process of perfume making before blending handpicked aromas to create a unique scent of your own. Continuing the experience, Aman Venice’s skilled mixologist will craft a cocktail that reflects the nuanced bouquet of the tailored fragrance. For additional cultural immersion, the ‘Venice of the Artisans’ tour provides access to some of the oldest and most established ateliers in town. Catch a rare glimpse into the world of Venetian creatives, from Bevilacqua weavers as they masterfully create hand-hewn textiles and Orsoni artisans as they craft hand-cut mosaics in one of the last remaining glass factories in Venice.
aman.com
Is there any better way to take the pulse of the planet than through food? COMO Hotels and Resorts recognises the allure of culinary travel and has introduced a series of experiences that allow guests to take a deep dive into the flavours of a region. We love the truffle hunting experience now available at Castello Del Nero, a historic castle turned luxury hotel in the rolling hills of Tuscany. Spend an hour with the property’s professional truffle hunter and his loyal Lagotto Romagnolo dogs, who will guide you through the region’s woods – home to three types of black truffles: winter, hooked and summer. Afterwards, return to the hotel for a special four-course lunch with the executive chef, who favours these prized mushrooms in both pasta and meat courses.
comohotels.com
Purveyor of luxury travel Captain’s Choice has launched a series of extraordinary new tour experiences for 2025, taking you to remote frontiers to discover the world’s wonders with unmatched comfort and style. Highlights include the ‘Rooftop of the World’ itinerary, a journey through the heart of Nepal, Bhutan and India. Soar above the world’s highest peaks aboard a helicopter, with Mount Everest and its neighbouring summits below; embark on a hike to the postcard-perfect Tiger’s Nest monastery, perched on the cliffs above Paro Valley; and unravel the secrets of Darjeeling’s renowned tea plantations, among many other adventures. This is an experience that takes you to new heights – in more ways than one.
captainschoice.com.au
Bhutan doesn’t disappoint when it comes to scenic drama, from its highaltitude monasteries and temples to its snow-kissed mountains. The kingdom’s newest offering is Druk Neykor, a tourism experience linking 108 sites and monuments showcasing the history, culture and spirituality of the country. Highlights include Thimpu’s Wangditse Lhakhang (a dzong-like temple), Tshelung Ney and Talangkha Drugyel Goenpa, among others. While these sites have always been open to visitors, Druk Neykor introduces a unique passport system, allowing travellers to collect stamps at each spiritual site visited – your passport also includes QR codes, allowing access to detailed information about each destination upon scanning.
bhutan.travel
Compiled by NATASHA DRAGUN
Great Barrier Reef resorts don’t get much more exclusive than Pelorus Private Island, an exclusive Coral Sea retreat where no expense is spare in style or sustainability. Touch down via a breathtaking helicopter charter from Townsville or Cairns, or by superyacht. Then check in to the luxuriously remote villa replete with five suites enveloped by untouched rainforest. Designed by Melbourne-based interior architecture studio, Dubois, Pelorus combines timeless features with the natural beauty of this sparkling swathe of Queensland. Guests are invited to indulge in relaxation and barefoot adventures, with activities including diving and snorkelling, guided jet-ski and seabob tours, as well as boat charters to the new (and visually stunning) Museum of Underwater Art (MOUA) installations o the coast.
pelorusprivateisland.au
Towering above the city’s dynamic Dojima district, the all-new Four Seasons Hotel Osaka is the third property from the brand in Japan. And boy, does it wow. The brainchild of award-winning interior designer Gwenael Nicolas of Curiosity, as well as Shinichiro Ogata of SIMPLICITY, Yasuhiro Koichi of Design Studio Spin and Nikken Sekkei, one of Japan’s leading architectural firms, the property resembles a sail from the outside; inside, it pays homage to the country’s traditional ryokans (inns), with a modern twist. Throughout you can look forward to a contemporary art collection curated by Fumio Nanjo, featuring local artists and artisans. And then there’s the destination dining – there are six restaurants and bars to choose from. Pair this with a series of onsen (hot spring baths), and you have the ultimate stay.
fourseasons.com
Freshly minted at Jimbaran’s Ayana Estate, the SAKA Museum is like a shrine to Balinese culture. Inside, design is inspired by nature – from the night sky to water caves and the volcanic landscape that characterises the south of this Indonesian island. Incorporated throughout are elements of stone like jasper and agate, as well as Balinese Hindu motifs, captured through a contemporary lens. The exhibition, meanwhile, takes visitors on a captivating exploration of the Balinese day of silence, Nyepi, with a myriad of art and cultural expressions deeply intertwined with the profound Balinese principle of Tri Hita Karana, a local philosophy that emphasises harmony and balance between the three realms of life: God, nature and humanity.
ayana.com
Santa Monica Beach is home to the freshest Regent hotel, steps from the legendary Santa Monica Pier and with the California coastline in mind when it comes to design. Overlooking the Pacific Ocean, the resort offers guests niceties like beach butler service (but of course), a Guerlain spa and enticing chef-driven culinary destinations, among many other exceptional experiences; check in to the Santa Monica Presidential Suite and you can look forward to a game room, separate living room area and four Juliet balconies. The project features visionary designs by renowned firms such as AvroKO and Wimberly Interiors, with culinary concepts by James Beard Award-winning chef Michael Mina.
santamonica.regenthotels.com
The late, great Aussie architect Kerry Hill stars again at the Aman Dubai, soon to open in the United Arab Emirates. The property enjoys a prime coastal position on Jumeirah Beach, with unobstructed views of the azure water and Dubai’s skyline across four hectares of gardens. Style here comes in the form of a minimal and contemporary aesthetic – think local stone in a palette of desert tones that connect subterranean spaces, and courtyards to extensive gardens descending to the beach and extending to private living spaces. While the property is distinctly Aman, with an overarching sense of tranquillity, Kerry Hill Architects was tasked with incorporating Arabian hospitality, drawing inspiration from the region’s architecture and cultural heritage.
aman.com
The world’s first movable galleries have opened at Simose in Otake, Hiroshima Prefecture, by the Seto Inland Sea. Part of an expansive art complex, Simose features art galleries, architecturally stunning villa accommodation, and a French restaurant serving fresh local ingredients from this region of Japan. Inspired by Hiroshima’s shipbuilding technology, the exhibition is made up of eight brightly-coloured movable gallery spaces that are perched atop the water. Guests are invited to immerse themselves in the art by staying overnight in one of Simose’s 10 villas designed by prominent architect, Shigeru Ban. Wherever you find yourself, feel a refreshing connection to the sea, sky, and gardens.
artsimose.jp
The latest addition to PONANT’s fleet is the Spirit of Ponant, a glamorous 24-metre maxi-catamaran with six staterooms hosting up to 12 guests and four crew, including a chef. The Lagoon Seventy 7 yacht was built in France, with high-end finishes and top sailing qualities including a focus on gastronomy via a wine cellar and signature cocktails, room service, nautical activities (paddleboarding, wakeboarding, snorkelling)… everything is included. The freshlylaunched yacht will spend the summer in Corsica and other parts of France, before heading to the Seychelles for winter 2025.
au.ponant.com
Hoshino Resorts continues its expansion in Japan with the opening of KAI Akiu, a Zen ryokan in the country’s Miyagi prefecture. Overlooking the Natori River, which flows from the Ou mountains, the retreat is crafted with nature in mind – there are bountiful onsen (hot spring baths), views of lush forest and the sound of water throughout. Designers have incorporated colours that echo the surroundings, from materials including washi paper to Sendai glass and local crafts.
hoshinoresorts.com
Compiled by NATASHA DRAGUN
A long-time leader in regenerative and sustainable travel, Abercrombie & Kent has unveiled its latest expedition, ‘Wildlife Adventure by Land & Sea: Around the World in Private Jet,’ scheduled from 19 May to 11 June 2025. The extraordinary journey has been crafted with ethical animal experiences in mind, giving guests the chance to become hands on in protecting some of the planets most fascinating fauna. Highlights include diving and snorkelling the waters of Palau; learning about conservation at a sanctuary in Indonesia home to the endangered Sumatran rhino; venturing deep into Brazil’s Pantanai, the world’s largest tropical wetland, in search of elusive jaguars; and visiting the Sloth Sanctuary in Panama’s Gamboa National Park to learn about the research they’re doing to boost numbers of this cute critter. Many of the experiences are normally closed to the public, giving you exclusive access thanks to A&K’s little black book of connections.
abercrombiekent.com.au
Hiking is not only one of the most sustainable ways of seeing the world, it’s also one of the most pleasurable, particularly when you’re getting back to nature in a country like Japan. The freshly minted (and fully guided) ‘Kyoto: Mountains to the Sea’ eight-day itinerary by Walk Japan takes you around the city’s bucolic countryside, following ancient trails that weave their way through valleys and over high passes until culminating on the rugged Sea of Japan coast at Amanohashidate, rightly considered one of Japan’s three classic vistas. En route, it passes through little-known villages and aside historic temples and shrines, some grand and some rustic. Accommodation each night is in Japanese inns, where soul-reviving meals make the most of local produce like Kyoyasai heirloom vegetables, Miyama ayu sweetfish, Tanba buri yellowtail and saba mackerel.
walkjapan.com
G Adventures, a pioneer of community tourism, has added five wildlife-focused trips to its ‘Jane Goodall Collection’ in celebration of Dr. Jane Goodall’s 90th birthday. The portfolio, which is endorsed by Dr. Goodall herself, aims to promote responsible wildlife tourism and support conservation efforts across the globe.
The update will see travellers embark on life-changing adventures to Tanzania, the Amazon, Galápagos Islands, Costa Rica and the US, including a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to observe chimpanzees in the wild in Gombe Stream National Park, the place Dr. Goodall began her trailblazing research in 1960 at the age of 26. The new additions build upon the success of the existing ‘Jane Goodall Collection’, which launched in 2016 and has empowered nearly 30,000 travellers to make a positive impact on the planet, just by having the time of their lives.
We’ve all seen those bulging bu ets on cruise ships – and the staggering amount of waste that often comes with them. Hurtigruten is on a mission to drastically reduce and recycle edible food waste from its fleet of ships via a number of innovative methods, including a specially designed reactor at one of its ports that now converts food waste into compost used to grow vegetables for Hurtigruten. As part of the initiative, Hurtigruten is committed to fostering awareness and education among guests and crew members about the importance of reducing edible food waste and embracing sustainable practices. Engaging presentations, workshops, and interactive experiences will be integrated into the on-board programming to inspire positive change and empower individuals to make environmentally conscious choices. The ultimate goal is to hit a target of zero food waste, and the company is well on its way there: edible food waste has dropped from 261 grams per customer in 2019 to just 66 grams per guest in 2023. hurtigruten.com
A one-million hectare area of southeastern Oregon in the US has been certified as an International Dark Sky Sanctuary by DarkSky International, making it the world’s largest Dark Sky Sanctuary to date. Located within an area commonly referred to as the Oregon Outback, the reserve has committed to protect its starry night skies for the benefit of residents, visitors and wildlife. The area is located within the largest, contiguous, pristine dark-sky zone in the Lower 48 US states, and this certification helps to protect a large portion of the designated zone. The sanctuary is very remote and sparsely populated, providing stargazing opportunities and other adventures for budding astro-tourists.
southernoregon.org
With a specific interest in conservation e orts, andBeyond is dedicated to fostering partnerships with local communities and organisations in the destinations it visits, to support wildlife conservation e orts. Over the decades initiatives have included anti-poaching projects, habitat restoration studies and wildlife monitoring programs aimed at protecting endangered species and preserving biodiversity. Now, travellers have the chance to be involved in making a di erence via andBeyond’s WILD economy Masterclass, created with the School of Wildlife Conservation at the African Leadership University. Over the course of six days you’ll participate in fascinating educational journeys hosted in lodges across Tanzania and Kenya, with the goal of examining, and improving, the role of the wildlife economy in Africa.
andbeyond.com
The Great Barrier Reef is one of the world’s most biodiverse ecosystems – it’s also one of the most fragile. Now you can play a part in its protection thanks to daily citizen science tours with eco-operator, Passions of Paradise. For certified divers, the ‘Marine Biologist for a Day’ trips from Cairns in Tropical North Queensland see you monitoring coral planting undertaken through the Coral Nurture Program with the Passions crew, who have planted more than 9,000 corals on Hastings Reef. Participants will also complete Eye on the Reef sightings and Rapid Monitoring Reports, which are logged with the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park Authority to assist in their management of the reef. Snorkellers are not forgotten, and can participate in a similar program with researchers and biologists.
passions.com.au
Tasmania is known for its mountain ranges, turquoise bays and native forests. Its landscapes rival some of the most beautiful destinations globally, so what better way to drink them in than from the comfort of a luxury farm-style stay? Here are four of the best
Tucked away in the foothills of Knocklofty Reserve just outside Hobart, this handsome retreat occupies a grand Victorian building, lovingly restored to its former 19th-century glory by owners Kerran and Samuel. The duo fitted out the space – with room to sleep six across three bedrooms – with antique oil paintings, chandeliers, restored wall sconces and stained-glass windows, keeping the design palette earthy and neutral to tie in with the dramatic landscapes that surround.
Tasmanian artisans star throughout, from the luxe wool throws to the locally made whiskeys on hand, ready to pour by the open fire. Upon your arrival, a three-course meal awaits (Tassie oysters are on the menu) – after that, you can cook up a storm in the kitchen, replete with Neff appliances, or make the short commute to some of the capital’s top restaurants and bars. There are many to choose from. Return to your lodgings for a soak in the claw-foot tub in the blushtoned bathroom, or explore the estate’s manicured cottage gardens. lumierelodge.com
Sitting pretty in the heart of Evandale, just 20 minutes south of Launceston, Leighton House is a remodel of a family farmhouse turned luxury rural retreat. The property it calls home is vast – some 120 hectares along the South Esk River, with dramatic views of Ben Lomond Mountain. And the three-bedroom Georgian estate comes with style and sustainable features to spare. Originally built in 1840, its soaring ceilings now sit over earthy spaces designed with Tasmanian antiques, bespoke lighting, a fireplace and a luxe
“Tasmanian
artisans star throughout, from the luxe wool throws to the locally made whiskeys on hand, ready to pour by the open fire.”
kitchen with top-end amenities. Those travelling with family will love the bunk room, pool table and separate entertainment area for teens. Step outside to discover the new wing, crafted from local carbon-neutral bricks, created as a separate nook for entertaining; there’s also a pizza oven and outdoor spa replete with a plunging hot tub and sauna, ideal for evening stargazing. Activities are catered exclusively to each guest, from antique and art lovers to sport enthusiasts alike, with highlights including a visit to MONA, a Tamar Valley wine road trip and a mid-morning trail walk around Wineglass Bay. Specialty food stores nearby include Evandale General Store, Alps & Amici and Bread & Butter, where you can pick up delicious baked goods and coffee. leightonhouse.com
Originally built in 1847, the Islington is perched in the exclusive enclave of South Hobart, just a stone’s throw from the city and national parks and boasting panoramic views of Mount Wellington. This luxury boutique hotel is adult-only across its 11 guest rooms, each individually designed with Art Deco flourishes, antiques and contemporary touches that celebrate Tasmanian artisans – think ornate candelabras, chandeliers, furry bedspreads and enormous marbled bathrooms. There’s also a strong focus on local in the kitchen, where chef Anthony Illingsworth favours seasonal menus that use ethically and sustainably sourced produce, much of which comes from the on-site kitchen gardens
Across the property, the devil is in the details: the kitchen staff rise before the sun to freshly make their bread, pastries and condiments for guests to enjoy throughout their stay. Guests can mingle between the Library, Conservatory and Morning and Rose rooms, which are adorned with an impressive collection of fine art, stocked bookshelves and luxe leather armchairs. And there are plenty of nooks to explore in the Andrew Pfeiffer-designed garden, which comes replete with a century old weeping willow tree, a serene pond and an infinity pool. islingtonhotel.com
OPPOSITE Leighton
House © Adam Gibson
© Marnie Hawson
Islington © Mauricio Esteban Mozo
OPENING PAGE
Lumière Lodge © Marnie Hawson
Islington © Paul Yonna RIGHT, BOTTOM
A private island you’ll have entirely to yourself – well, save for the resident sweet-faced deer and sea eagles – Satellite Island is like Tasmania on a plate. The three-bedroom Summerhouse is rather schmick, with a well-equipped kitchen, equally well-stocked pantry, and an island manager to help out with whatever you need during your stay. There’s also a two-bedroom boathouse on the pier, which can accommodate guests or be transformed into a lounge come wine time – while you’re by the water, pluck oysters and sea urchins from the rocks that surround, then cook freshly caught fish over a fire on the pebbly beach. And if you want to get even closer, you may wish to sleep in the luxury bell tent…
It’s an easy boat ride here across the D’Entrecasteaux Channel from Bruny Island (which is an easy boat ride from Hobart), with other watery diversions ranging from kayaking and stand-up paddleboarding and fishing to snorkelling. Guests can also explore the orchard and organic veggie patch (feel free to pick what you need for dinner), make the most of yoga mats and salute the sun, or simply say goodbye to the day with a glass of Tasmanian wine. satelliteisland.com.au
The French capital’s seductive charms are legendary, and for good reason. Inviting sidewalk cafes, gleaming boutiques, world-class museums, endless things to do, and a fabled restaurant scene make Paris the runway model of cities – beautiful, fashionable, confident and inspiring envy at every turn. The Olympics have upped the ante, proving that the ‘City of Light’ never goes out of style
The Musée d’Orsay is hosting a major exhibition to mark the 150th anniversary of the Impressionist movement this year. But if you want to avoid the crowds, head instead to the Musée Marmottan Monet in the leafy 16th arrondissement to discover the world’s largest collection of works by Claude Monet and Berthe Morisot, one of the world’s most notable female Impressionists. marmottan.fr
Don’t miss the Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris, located in the mansion that was the headquarters of the renowned couture house for almost 30 years. Here, you’ll discover the fashions, sketches and films that highlight the couturier’s creative process. museeyslparis.com
Afew years ago, I was exploring the streets north of the serene Jardin du Palais Royal and happened upon the neo-classical Galerie Vivienne passages couvert, one of numerous covered pedestrian passageways built in Paris in the 19th century. It felt like walking into a secret jewel box as I explored its wood-framed shops, light streaming in from the ornate glass roof, intricately patterned mosaic tiles beneath my feet.
An apothecary offering handcrafted perfumes and candles, a tea salon, an historic bookshop, a wine merchant and gourmet purveyor, a whimsical toy shop, a comforting bistro, and a luxe fashion boutique offering preloved gems from the likes of Dior, Louis Vuitton, Isabel Marant, Kenzo and Issey Miyake. Each bijou vendor I encountered was as enticing as the next.
No crowds here, just another remarkable day where, if you take the time to look around, you’ll discover a rich lode of culture and beauty – and the simple art de vivre – hiding in plain sight. This is the luxury of Paris.
Forget what you thought you needed to do and see in the French capital – you’re not on safari trying to tick off the ‘Big Five’. Besides, the Eiffel Tower and Sacré-Cœur are much better admired from a distance, casting their spell in that pearly Parisian light.
Paris is for flâneurs, those who are happy to wander while soaking up its beauty at every turn: its grand buildings crafted from pale limestone, its art nouveau metro signs, its plane-treedappled boulevards, its voluptuous sculptures and sun-slanted cafe terraces.
Savour those wanderings. But remember, the Moulin Rouge posters and red-checked tablecloths that evoke nostalgic Paris aren’t the goal here. Embrace the living, breathing city that’s in constant evolution and keep asking yourself this question: How does the best spirit of Paris inform what I’m doing and where I’m exploring? If you can answer with, “I’m undeniably in Paris and nowhere else,” then you are where you should be. And there’s nowhere else you would want to be.
“It felt like walking into a secret jewel box as I explored its wood-framed shops, light streaming in from the ornate glass roof, intricately patterned mosaic tiles beneath my feet.”
It could be a gentle Japanese-inflected restaurant like Narro in the Latin Quarter, rather than a corner bistro serving heavy French onion soup on a hot July evening. Or, skipping the tourist lines at the Louvre entirely and discovering the edgy installations of the Pinault Collection underneath the spectacular dome of the Bourse de Commerce. Or, instead of merely designer shopping along Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, adding a visit to la Galerie du 19M, Chanel’s artisanal centre that has brought its embroiderers, pleating specialists, milliners, feather workers and shoemakers under one spectacular roof up in Porte d’Aubervilliers, not far from the Olympic athletes village. Keep it current. Take it up a notch. Follow the locals.
That said, much of the Paris we know and love was fashioned during the Second Empire in the mid-19th century, when Napoleon III hired Baron Haussmann to reimagine the medieval city of narrow winding streets into a brave new cosmopolitan metropolis. To do this, Haussmann carved grand boulevards, which he lined with five-storey buildings fashioned from the local cream-coloured Lutetian limestone that reflected the opalescent skies above to give Paris its moniker, the ‘City of Light’ – the fact it was the first city in Europe to use gas lighting to illuminate its streets also contributed. The buildings may be ornate, but it’s their curvaceous consistency that acts like dopamine on our locals and visitors alike. We fall in love.
Haussmann also planted thousands of trees along the boulevards and created expansive green spaces including the Bois de Boulogne in the west, the Bois de Vincennes in the east, the Parc Montsouris in the south and the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont in the north.
During this time, some of the city’s grandest public buildings were erected, including the opulent Palais Garnier opera house, as well as the Palais de Justice and Tribunal de Commerce, those elaborate castle-like buildings on the Île de la Cité, an island in the River Seine.
As Paris geared up to host the Exposition Universelle of 1900, the Eiffel Tower, the Grand and Petit Palais, and the Belle Époque Pont Alexandre III bridge – with its bare-breasted nymphs, trumpet-blowing angels and gilded candelabras – became the symbols of a proud, effervescent city.
Discover the finest French beauty products, perfumes and combs at one of the woodpanelled boutiques of Officine Universelle Buly 1803, either in the 6th arrondissement, the Marais or Haut Marais. buly1803.com
Browse Empreintes, a fourstorey French artisanal concept store in the Haut Marais, to find hand-crafted jewellery, pottery, art, fashion and homewares made in ateliers across France. empreintes-paris.com
“Just another remarkable day where, if you take the time to look around, you’ll discover a rich lode of culture and beauty – and the simple art de vivre – hiding in plain sight. This is the luxury of Paris.”
These icons and others again take centre stage during, and after, the 2024 Paris Olympics: beach volleyball under the Eiffel Tower, fencing and taekwondo in the Grand Palais, equestrian events at the Palace of Versailles. Indeed, Paris approached the Olympics with the goal of keeping new building to a minimum while using its grand patrimony to the max. Perhaps most remarkable of all, the marathon swimming and triathlon water events took place in the clean waters of the Seine, thanks to a massive underground engineering program. And by 2025, we’ll all be able to swim at three bathing spots in the river – for the first time in 100 years.
All of Paris was on show during the opening ceremony –the movable feast saw athletes parading in a flotilla of boats along the Seine from the Pont d’Austerlitz to the Pont d’Iéna at the Eiffel Tower.
Whatever the time of year or season, you’ll find Parisians strolling or picnicking along the Seine – or, if they’re young and hip, along the Canal Saint-Martin in the city’s east. Wander alongside them on Le Parc Rives de Seine, which offers 10 hectares of walking routes on the river’s Left and Right Banks. Enjoy an apèro at the Rosa Bonheur sur Seine glass barge or join the locals on the Quai Saint-Bernard, near the Jardin des Plantes, to dance the tango or salsa in dusk’s golden light.
As for dining, sure, you can dress up to worship at the Michelin-starred temples of haute cuisine. But make time to include a few nouveau bistronomie boîtes in the edgy 11th arrondissement. Think Septime, Clamato, Chateaubriand, Clown Bar, Le Servan, Mokonuts and more. Go there in a whisper-quiet Turtle electric tricycle taxi on cycling trails created by mayor Anne Hidalgo, who’s made it her mission for Paris to be carbon neutral by 2050.
While the ‘City of Light’ has possibly the world’s most enviable collection of museums, it’s clearly no museum piece. As you wander its atmospheric quartiers, perhaps you’re on a walking safari after all – a hunt for beauty in all its surprising manifestations, with Paris as your Serengeti and new discoveries to be made at every turn.
The stunningly remote island archipelago of Palau boasts some of the world’s best snorkelling and diving – and there’s no better way to take in this magical world under the sea than from aboard the luxurious Four Seasons Explorer
There’s an underwater collision about to happen. Swimming purposefully through the water is a large turtle, which is clearly feeling confident about having the right of way. Moving parallel to the coral-encrusted underwater wall, it’s heading straight for my dive buddy, Leo, who is hanging vertically in the water just centimetres from the rock wall.
Leo is an experienced diver and knows that wildlife has the right of way, but is oblivious to the approaching turtle. That’s because he is intently studying the colourful corals covering every inch of the rock wall and the minute lifeforms sheltering among their branches, including tiny shrimp and crabs smaller than your little toenail.
I watch as the turtle draws ever nearer then, without the slightest hesitation, somehow glides through the small gap between Leo and the wall. Leo rears back in surprise but a second later is grinning broadly, entertained by the fact that he’s just been mugged by the graceful creature
Welcome to Palau, one of the world’s last underwater frontiers. A collection of more than 340 forest-covered islands scattered across a remote corner of the Pacific Ocean, east of the Philippines and north of Papua New Guinea, Palau is home to some of the best diving in the world. It is also hoping to establish itself as a new destination for luxury travel, and while the archipelago is yet to open a fivestar resort, it does have one enticing option for high-end travellers: the Four Seasons Explorer
This luxury liveaboard previously offered set diving itineraries in the Maldives, where guests enjoyed the expansive suites with huge windows and the superb food, wine and cocktails – not to mention an on-board spa therapist. Here in Palau, the experience is just as indulgent, although it operates by different rules.
Just like a hotel, you can check in and out any day you like, thanks to the ship’s tender that comfortably transports you out to the catamaran. Don’t plan on staying for less than seven days, however. The diving here is so extraordinary that even if, like me, you are only an occasional diver, you will be enthusiastically showing up for three dives a day. If you don’t dive, or don’t want to do so every day, there are plenty of other ways to explore this under-the-radar country, from visiting local villages to kayaking and snorkelling around beautiful bays.
Perhaps Palau’s most famous on-island attraction is Jellyfish Lake, known for its staggering number of (non-venomous) golden jellyfish that drift through its waters. Jellyfish Lake is a marine lake, connected to the ocean through the
Fierce fighting between US and Japanese troops in World War II left plenty of relics for battlefield tourists to discover, from shipwrecks and downed planes to bunkers and amphibious tanks.
porous limestone in which it sits – essentially, an island of sea surrounded by land. Marine lakes are extraordinary ecosystems, and Palau has the highest concentration of them in the world.
Other excursions include trips to view the Badrulchau stone monoliths, at the northern tip of Babeldaob Island; the cave paintings of Ulong Island, part of the Palau Rock Islands World Heritage Site; and the charming Belau National Museum, the oldest of its kind in Micronesia and a place where you can learn about Palau’s chequered history under various powers including Spain, Germany, Japan and the United States. My favourite activities include a village visit where we are entertained by traditional dancers and learn about the beautifully-carved bai meeting houses, made of wood and coral and topped with a thatched roof. It’s also hard to beat the gourmet forest picnic we enjoy by a lush waterfall.
And I do mean gourmet. Meals aboard the Four Seasons Explorer are superb. Seafood is obviously in high rotation, from yellowfin tuna carpaccio to crab tacos and lobster thermidor. But there is plenty of variety – tandoori night proves particularly popular. The beverages, from morning coffees to pre-dinner cocktails, are also fantastic.
But undoubtedly the number-one reason to visit Palau is to explore the underwater world. Palau’s clear waters and thriving coral reefs are home to some sensational marine life. We follow large octopuses and cuttlefish as they traverse the reef, marvel at beds of giant clams (seven of the world’s nine species are found here), and gaze in awe as a giant manta ray heads straight for us, wheels around and come back for more, as if knowing that we’re keen to capture the footage. (The Four Seasons dive team includes videographers who put together nightly highlight reels.)
We tick off plenty of Palau’s most famous dive sites, from Chandelier Cave – where stalactites glitter and corals grow from the ceiling – to German Channel and Blue Corner, famous for huge schools of snapper, barracuda and jacks. Perhaps the most remarkable thing is that at these extraordinary sites, we are the only divers. Only once do we see another tender – but it turns out the divers have just surfaced, and they head off before we tumble into the ocean.
Palau does not take its natural wonders for granted; it works hard to protect them. Its constitution highlights the importance of “conservation of a beautiful, healthful and resourceful natural environment”, and the government administers a marine sanctuary that stretches across half a million square kilometres – 80 per cent of the country’s marine territory.
As you would expect, the Four Seasons dive team is delighted to be working here, and they love it when their
ABOVE, FROM TOP The Four Seasons Explorer ; nature rules in Palau
OPPOSITE, TOP Dive in to Jellyfish Lake
OPPOSITE, BOTTOM LEFT Stylish cabins on Four Seasons Explorer
OPPOSITE, BOTTOM RIGHT Sun-kissed dining on the ship
“We tick off plenty of Palau’s most famous dive sites, from Chandelier Cave – where stalactites glitter and corals grow from the ceiling – to German Channel and Blue Corner, famous for huge schools of snapper, barracuda and jacks.”
guests want to make the most of the experience. With their encouragement I tackle my first wreck dive – we visit a Japanese Zero Fighter plane downed during World War II, which lies 30 metres beneath sea level, every surface now overgrown with dazzling corals. They even talk me into doing my first night dive, which turns out to be a delight, the colours vivid by flashlight. When Leo and I surface and wait for the tender to pick us up, we find ourselves floating in tranquil waters beneath a full moon – a moment of serenity that will stay with me for a long time. Back on board the ship, the customary post-dive greeting of a cold face towel and juice has been replaced by a hot towel and a cup of cocoa. Once again, the Four Seasons team has thought of everything.
Air Niugini flies weekly from Brisbane to Koror, Palau, connecting in Port Moresby. airniugini.co.pg
Nauru Airlines has direct weekly flights from Brisbane to Palau, taking just six hours. nauruair.com
Four Seasons Explorer rates start from USD$2,800 (about AUD$4,200) per suite per night all-inclusive (excluding alcohol). fourseasons.com
OPPOSITE Taking in the beauty of Palau from above
ABOVE, LEFT Traditional Palau longhouses
ABOVE, RIGHT Swimming through spectacular coves
In the south of Iceland, where waterfalls plummet from great heights and snow-capped mountains pierce the sky, outdoor adventures reign supreme
The chill of the air hovers around 3°C, and we bundle up to walk the 15-minute track from the carpark to the base of Seljalandsfoss, one of the most magnificent waterfalls in southern Iceland.
It’s a scenic stroll, and even though we’re sharing the path with other travellers, there’s a sense of calm in the air as we all appreciate the mossy green hills and the fastcascading water before us. The water’s force is so powerful that as we draw nearer, we feel its brunt on our bodies.
What possesses us to join the throng of adventurers ducking behind the waterfall, I can’t quite recall. I think our eldest daughter is insisting, and in the heat of the moment, we propel ourselves into the roaring curtain of water. The sound is deafening, and we find ourselves cloaked in a swirling mist... a mist that engulfs us in an eddy of exhilaration. A moment later – well, both kids start complaining that they are wet and cold.
It’s a short drive back to our accommodation, Skálakot Manour Hotel, and it’s not long before we’ve warmed up with a hot drink and a steaming bath. Skálakot is first and foremost a family-run farm, but there’s also a charming boutique hotel on-site that caters to the upmarket traveller.
We’re here as part of our self-drive tour with 50 Degrees North, so the logistics, activities and car hire have been sorted, and our job is to simply turn up.
The traditional homestead-style building is nestled in mountain foothills and faces across the plains to the North Atlantic – from the outside there is little that hints to the splendour that awaits. Inside, there’s a cosy restaurant, comfortable rooms and two suites. We’re staying in the master suite, best described as barnyard chic in design with herringbone flooring and furniture to match. The freestanding, claw-foot bath takes pride of place in the middle of the living room, and the kids love being the centre of attention… even while soaking.
Warm and clean, our afternoon activities begin with a horse ride, a quintessential adventure in this land of rugged beauty. Introduced by Norse settlers in the 9th century, Icelandic horses have adapted to the country’s harsh climate and challenging terrain, evolving into a breed renowned for its strength, stamina and sure-footedness. There are many farms across the country with thousands of horses, and riding has become a popular activity for tourists, contributing significantly to Icelandic culture in more recent times.
Our eldest has a lesson first, and both girls immediately bond with her horse. Their trainer explains that Icelandic horses are known for their gentle and friendly disposition, making them ideal companions for riders of all ages and experience levels. Although our eldest hasn’t ridden before, she’s off on a short, guided trot within an hour, and she begs us to enrol her in lessons when we return home.
The Northern Lights season in Iceland runs from September until April.
I join a group of guests a little later for a trail ride that traverses black-sand beaches and weaves its way across dramatic coastal cliffs. The journey is smooth and comfortable, and the group leader tells us that this is because Icelandic horses have five gaits, rather than the normal three of walk, trot and canter. Tölt is a smooth, rhythmic four-beat lateral step that lacks the jolting motion of the trot, while the skeið is a rhythmic two-beat gait where both legs on one side of the horse simultaneously touch the ground. When performed at speed, there are times when no hooves are in contact with the earth, and the sensation is almost like flying. Apparently, it’s this additional range of gaits that allows for a smoother and more stable ride.
The scenery of South Iceland is nothing short of aweinspiring, and as we ride, I take it all in. Jagged mountains loom in the distance, their peaks covered by snow like frosted crowns atop ancient giants. Emerald green meadows stretch out before us, dotted with grazing sheep and the occasional farmhouse nestled amid the rolling hills. In the saddle, I find myself pondering the resilience of farm animals amid the harsh Icelandic winter conditions. Upon our return to Skálakot, my curiosity is piqued, and I remind myself to quiz the staff who will guide us on a farm tour tomorrow.
Farming in Iceland faces unique challenges, and as expected, it’s much easier during the summer months when the weather is milder and daylight hours are longer. However, life goes on in all seasons and, consequently, farming requires careful planning. It’s crop harvesting time in October, and we learn how farmers gather hay and other winter feed for animals and store vegetables like potatoes and turnips. As the cold weather encroaches, livestock are usually brought down from highland pastures to lower elevations, and come winter, they are housed in sheltered environments.
Although most visitors come to Iceland in the summer, autumn (when we visit) offers a different kind of beauty. As the days grow shorter and temperatures begin to drop, the ever-changing interplay of light and dark casts intriguing shadows across the vibrant gold and green hillsides. There’s no snow (yet) at sea level here in southern Iceland; instead,
“Introduced by Norse settlers in the 9th century, Icelandic horses have adapted to the country’s harsh climate and challenging terrain.”
the low-lying sun bathes the landscape in a golden glow that sets the countryside ablaze come early afternoon.
Autumn in Iceland also brings the possibility of witnessing the Northern Lights, so we don’t mind the shorter daylight hours. We’re also hoping for an early display, instead of a 3am wake-up call.
It’s as if the heavens hear us. The first time we see the aurora borealis is soon after we finish dinner. Initially, it’s just a shimmer of white, so faint and inconspicuous that we argue between ourselves whether it’s simply a trick of the eye. But within the hour, that ghost-like sliver transforms into a velvety canvas of sparkling green, unfurling across the sky like a Chinese fan. The children are gobsmacked, my husband is taking his gloves on and off trying to get the perfect photo, and I just sit and stare, humbled to be a small speck in this faraway world, observing this ethereal cosmic dance alongside those who I love most.
The 10-day ‘Golden Circle & Snæfellsnes Self-Drive Tour’ by 50 Degrees North is priced from AUD$10,525 per person, and includes boutique hotel stays in rural locations, car hire, airport transfers and activities like snorkelling in Silfra, glacier walks and much more. fiftydegreesnorth.com
Tunisia’s coastal beauty and cultural riches make it a worthy alternative to its more popular neighbours, Egypt and Morocco – and there’s no better way to take the pulse of this North African nation than with an informed female guide
WORDS BY RAJNI GEORGE
In her 16 years as a guide in Tunisia, 37-year-old Nour el Houda Abbes has entertained some strange requests. “Once, a lady asked me to take her around the city, to feed its many cats. I’m always flexible as a guide; I will not say no easily,” she tells me.
It’s estimated that there are around 3,000 tour guides in Tunisia. Nour is in a minority – only around 400 of these guides are female. I’m spending the day with the attractive, diminutive young woman while exploring the Tunis medina (the old walled part of a North African town), the port town of La Goulette, and what is left of the scenic yet depleted ruins of Carthage.
We stroll through the buzzing Central Market of Tunis (the capital), whose sprawling buildings lie inland from the Gulf of Tunis. We pass avenues heaped with flowers, fruit and fish. Baskets of artichokes and tiny okra are on offer; there are strawberries and nectarines, infinite varieties of flatbreads, and black and green olives. I spy platters of tiny, slowly-moving snails, already deliquescent. Nour offers me giant swordfish and fresh tuna, takes me to delicatessen Raviolis Mongelli – “the best in town, see the line?” – and tells me the ultimate way to pack the harissa I have with me, for my journey home the following week: “In a bottle with olive oil on top.”
Guido Dgr/iStock
I quickly discover that people in Tunisia are friendly and make time for leisurely conversations. Here, folks seem to take a liberal, yet old-world, approach to life. I observe locals making their impossibly slow way to work on very old bicycles; one morning, a sweet man opens up the exhibition space of a well-known couturier to me for a personal tour, because I am wandering about the town of Sidi Bou Said alone. They also go out of their way to joke with, and charm, strangers, while respecting that tenuous line between banter and flirtation. “I will make this into an earring!” one elderly man says at a market stall. I’ve taken out an Indian coin by mistake, and the vendors all mock-fight over who will keep this prize, much to Nour’s and my amusement. Bilal, a dynamic seller of carpets whose wares are quality controlled by the government, tells me the proceeds go directly to the craftswomen who make them, and makes quips about selling to infamous Indian business families
Many male guides are unlikely to have seen the inside of a kitchen in this part of the world, the writer Jeff Koehler (author of, most recently, The North African Cookbook) remarked, when he recommended Nour’s services to me. Female guides, on the other hand, partake fully in both public and domestic life in Tunisia, and can therefore present a fuller perspective.
Nour tells me: “Many women call and ask only for a woman guide,” including a group of Kuwaiti women who contacted her just today. As for me, I am eager for a more intimate acquaintance with life here, in all its nuances.
The Bardo National Museum is one of the most renowned galleries in the region, and the medina merits a repeat visit if you enjoy shopping. You can explore the ruins of Carthage in a few hours, and be sure to spend ample time in Hammamet, where you can find the best beaches. Nearby Nabeul is famous for its pottery. Sidi bou Said is a charming town on a promontory overlooking the Mediterranean, known for its cobbled streets and blue-andwhite houses. Don’t miss a visit to Dar el Annabi, a heritage home, while in the area.
In the tourist-favourite town of Sidi Bou Said, Au Bon Vieux Temps is your best bet at tasteful local food; meanwhile, the coffee is delicious at Cafe des Nattes, Villa Bleue and Ben Rahim – a famous Berlin chain started by a Tunisian. In La Goulette, on your way to Carthage, break for pipinghot fish, fresh from the sea, at Restaurant La Victoire (Chez Razgallah). Linger at Les Indecis in Carthage: it’s vegetarianfriendly and comes with wonderful ambience. The classic repasts of Fondouk El Attarine and Dar El Jeld Restaurant, both in the medina, are best for traditional Tunisian fare.
If you want to stay amid the action, check in to Dar el Jeld Hotel and Spa, located in the middle of the medina. This 16-suite sanctuary features elegant, local design, an Andalusian garden and two restaurants. For a more relaxing experience, an hour away from the hustle of Tunis, La Badira in Hammamet offers modern luxury by the beach (Le Sultan, next door, is ideal if visiting with children). dareljeld.com, labadira.com
Before, throughout and after my visit, Nour answers all my questions, offering advice, encouragement and, when the friend I am travelling with leaves, an opportunity for connection. She organises taxis and talks about films and books with me – Tunisia’s most well-known historical novel, Salammbô by Gustave Flaubert, is decidedly “unsatisfying”. When I tell her she looks like the Indian actress Nimrat Kaur, she is visibly tickled.
Our conversation often turns to philosophical and political matters, weaving in and out of the realm of culture. Tunisia, now a semi-presidential republic, sparked the Arab Spring – momentous anti-government protests that began in the early 2010s across many Arab nations – and was the only country that transitioned to a democratic government. Today, eight in 10 Tunisians affirm that democracy is their preferred political system, and the majority trust the current president, Kais Saied, according to the 2024 Arab Barometer VIII Tunisia Report
Nour echoes this sentiment, but remarks on economic difficulties, explaining that many working-class Tunisians just about manage to make ends meet: “Qad qad,” (“just enough” in Tunisian Arabic) she says. But this, she elaborates, means that folks want to live as well as they can. “People want their vacations by the beach in La Marsa every year – it is also a part of their life.”
Tunisia has been praised for relatively progressive social policies, especially in the areas of family law and women’s rights. In 2017, parliamentarians approved The Act on Violence Against Women, which addressed domestic violence and included language intended to protect women from harassment in public as well as from economic discrimination. Tunisia was also the first Arab country to formally abolish polygamy in 1956, Nour reminds me, recounting the story of the late Tawhida Ben Cheikh, Tunisia’s pioneering first female physician, who became the face of the new banknote in spring 2020.
Women enjoy equal freedoms and occupy public space with ease here – even if I am sometimes the only woman in cafes. As I take in the city and its surrounds with Nour, we find ourselves discussing what it’s like to travel on your own as a woman. Sometimes, uplifting and empowering, as when I wander the streets at night in La Marsa, feeling incredibly safe as it is impossible to do in India. Sometimes, lonely, as when I celebrate Eid – one of two main holidays celebrated in Islam, when restaurants and cafes are closed and people spend time with their families – alone. Occasionally, frightening, as when an elderly teacher warns me as I wander into a quiet and harmless-looking stretch of the medina at mid-morning; people have been known to be mugged there. He adds that he teaches French at a wellknown school named after philosopher and author Albert Camus, inviting me to join him for an espresso.
OPPOSITE, TOP
Exploring the streets
© Karina Bost/iStock
OPPOSITE, BOTTOM LEFT
Design details © Seif Eddin
Khayat/Unsplash
OPPOSITE, BOTTOM RIGHT
Traditional Tunis housing
© Cinaboy/iStock
At 21, when Nour finished her master’s degree, she was at a crossroads; should she become a teacher, or take her knowledge into the field? Her husband is a French teacher and her aunt is a professor of history and geography, so she has long been well-acquainted with the world of academia. Ultimately, however, she earned her license to be a guide
“To grasp as much of the beauty around you as you possibly can, within your means: this is what I take away from this fascinating and diverse country.”
while completing her PhD in archaeology. In Tunisia, qualifying as a guide involves passing stringent exams and other guides also have doctorates and translate, sometimes in court, Nour tells me. Our driver is emphatic, later, when I ask what his experience of guides has been like. “Nour is special. Other guides may take visitors to a place for a few hours; she will take them around for the day,” he says. “Nour est incomparable.” (“Nour is unique.”)
Over 16 years, Nour has taken hundreds of tourists from Italy, France, Russia, China, the United States and many other countries all over Tunisia. She often advises people for free, and keeps in touch with some for years. She recently visited the United States for the first time and, in Australia, some former clients have become firm friends.
“I like the human part,” she says. And, as spending a day with Nour reminds me, so do I. To grasp as much of the beauty around you as you possibly can, within your means: this is what I take away from this fascinating and diverse country.
Getting there
Emirates and Qatar Airways fly from Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane to Tunis, via Dubai and Doha, respectively.
In Canada’s wild north, polar bears, beluga whales and the Northern Lights are just the tip of the iceberg
There’s something Netflix noir about the town of Churchill, set on the western shore of Canada’s Hudson Bay, a vast southern extension of the Arctic Ocean. There’s no road in or out and its soundtrack is one of wind and wings. The town’s melancholy beauty demands vigilance. Our guide’s instruction: “Keep your head on a swivel.”
Being in Churchill is like hitting ‘Play’ on a National Geographic documentary trailer. A lone grey wolf trots through conifers in search of prey; a bald eagle swoops in on a flock of teal, picking off the straggler for breakfast. An Arctic hare bats its black eyelashes. In the distance, a polar bear that looks like a Flokati rug on a rock, stretches a leg in – could it be? – a bear yoga pose.
In Churchill you do and see things you might not normally do and see. I test drive an Electric Vehicle Tundra Buggy with tires 1.7 metres high, and zip along boreal forest tracks in a go-cart pulled by five of the 43 rescue huskies owned by the charismatic Dave Daley, a former aircraft mechanic.
I will order bison burgers and medium-rare elk medallions with a glossy wash of arctic berry reduction. The digestive will be a celestial choreography, watched from the beach late at night, starring the lime green ribbons of aurora borealis.
Churchill is raw and real. It’s a destination for those who want to channel the adventurer within.
One of Frontiers North’s most unique feasting options is Dan’s Diner, a pop-up restaurant in the Tundra Buggy Lodge, serving a multi-course menu that nods to Manitoba growers, fishermen and butchers. It operates in February and March, either as an individual reservation (CA$379, around AUD$425) or as part of a Frontiers North tour package. Skylights accommodate the Northern Lights drama above.
Churchill turned up in Time magazine’s list of ‘The World’s Greatest Places of 2023’. But while it earns its credentials via polar bears, beluga whales and the Northern Lights, the Manitoba town is just as attractive for trailblazing science and conservation.
A rich diversity of marine mammals underpins the Hudson Bay ecosystem. The largest gathering of beluga in the world comes to feed and give birth here. Walruses, polar bears, ringed seals, bearded seals and harbour seals live in the bay year-round. Seasonal visitors include bowhead whales, narwhals, killer whales and harp seals. Polar bears thrive on seal blubber. Fat from a 68-kilogram ringed seal has the same number of kilojoules as about 400 cheeseburgers.
Arctic specialists who make the journey to Canada’s northern-most seaport include biologists, oceanographers, meteorologists, geologists and chemists. Studying the Arctic from the bottom of the ocean to the top of the atmosphere, their tools include everything from microscopes to satellites.
Everyone has a nerdy research niche: the language acquisitions of baby belugas, the nutrient ecosystem of sea ice, the dynamics of a polar bear den. A dossier on polar bear whiskers – which can aid in identification as fingerprints do in humans – is currently being compiled.
Named after John Churchill, the governor of the Hudson’s Bay Company from 1685–91, Churchill has been a fur trading post, a military base (Fort Churchill, built in 1942), a rocket launching facility, a research hub and adventure travel drawcard.
In the 1950s, the British government considered Churchill for nuclear weapons testing, opting instead for Australia’s Maralinga.
Churchill riffs on abandonment. Things that have outlived their usefulness are simply left to return to the earth; there’s not much landfill to be had in permafrost.
The military base was razed in 1981, but remnants of the rocket range, a huge grain silo, a half-finished hotel built of stones, and paddocks of rusting oil drums, cars, motorcycles, buses, boats and the odd washing machine remain. Some 750 metres offshore sits the steam freighter SS Ithaka, which ran aground in 1960.
The community does its best to counterbalance the rust aesthetic. The SeaWalls Churchill mural project, curated by local artist Kal Barteski, was a 2017 initiative to raise awareness of oceans and to restore pride in a town devastated by blizzards and floods, which destroyed the rail line. Eighteen artists from nine countries painted murals that today adorn neglected buildings.
The love of art continues at the Itsanitaq Museum, a collection of Inuit carvings and artefacts said to be among the world’s oldest. Even extracted human teeth have been intricately carved. What appeals to museum curator Lorraine Brandson is “the ingenuity and resourcefulness of the artwork and the patience needed to make it”.
Adventure tour companies such as Frontiers North Adventures, Lazy Bear Expeditions, Great White Bear, Churchill Wild and Discover Churchill are among operators giving visitors insights into the Churchill way of life.
Churchill’s population is around 900, but more than half a million visitors come by train or plane to northern Manitoba each year. The town’s body clock works like this: January to March, Northern Lights at their best; May and June, birding; July and August, beluga whales; August, the trifecta of polar bears, belugas and lights, if you are lucky; October and November, polar bears await the sea ice that will feed their seal addiction.
OPPOSITE, TOP Public art amid the snow © Travel Manitoba
OPPOSITE, LEFT Polar bears are a common
sight in the cooler
© Travel Manitoba
OPPOSITE, RIGHT
A Karl Barteski mural
© Travel Manitoba
We are there in late September, in autumn, and we almost slip through the cracks. Our guide, Jason Ransom, works hard to deliver a polar bear sighting. It comes three hours before our departure. He tells us, “I can’t control the weather or the wildlife.” We try to be understanding.
Our four-day itinerary has been shaped by Frontiers North Adventures, who introduced the Electric Vehicle Tundra Buggy in 2021. There are two now, and the company hopes to convert its fleet of 12 to electric technology by 2030. The buggies, says a company spokesperson, could reduce greenhouse gas emissions by more than 3,600 tonnes of carbon dioxide over the next 25 years.
“Arctic
specialists who make the journey to Canada’s northern-most seaport include biologists, oceanographers, meteorologists, geologists and chemists.”
The space-agey Tundra Buggy Lodge consists of two units that can sleep up to 40 guests, a lounge, a dining hall and staff quarters. Outdoor viewing and photography platforms connect each unit.
Other accommodation options in town, like the Tundra Inn where we stay, are clean, roomy, and conveniently located near the Town Centre Complex, which houses the school, healthcare, a library, swimming pool, curling rink, theatre, gym and community notice boards. Anyone for the men’s drum group?
Our visit is peppered with interesting talks; from (First Nations) Dene elder Florence Hamilton; Dylan McCart, executive director of Churchill Northern Study Centre; and Bob Debets, who has been transporting wildlife enthusiasts around Churchill for 22 years, and whose side hustle is pyrotechnics.
The Churchill Northern Study Centre, 23 kilometres east of town, provides meals, lodging, laboratory space, equipment rentals and research support to students and scientists. Researchers love the intersection of marine, boreal forest and tundra ecosystems.
The Polar Bears International (PBI) House is a public education space, and it disseminates and interprets current studies. Initiatives include polar bear live cams, powered by explore.org (where you can also find live reporting of the Northern Lights activity).
According to PBI’s director of conservation outreach, Alysa McCall – who spoke in Sydney, Australia, in 2023 – there are 19 populations of polar bears and some 25,000 left in the wild. In the 1980s, there were 1,200 polar bears in the western Hudson Bay area; today there are just over 600. Says McCall, “They’re not starving, but the mums are tired and have less access to food. Less sea ice [a result of climate change] means they are eating fewer seals; it’s harder to get pregnant, harder to stay pregnant, or to nurse cubs to adulthood.
“Polar bears are our fat white hairy canary in the coalmine.”
Churchill multi-day packages with Frontiers North are from CA$5,249 (around AUD$5,954) per person. Fights operate six times a week between Winnipeg to Churchill; there’s also a train between Winnipeg to Churchill. frontiersnorth.com
For more information, visit keepexploring.canada.travel
From Parasite through to Squid Game, BTS and Blackpink, South Korea’s cultural profile has never been higher. But five millennia of history – and some of the world’s best food – also await travellers visiting this thrilling northeast Asian pearl
As South Korea’s beating heart, Seoul is a non-negotiable destination for visitors, and rewards them at every turn. Visitors from seemingly every nation throng the royal Gyeongbokgung Palace, many dressing up in traditional Korean costumes thanks to the global appeal of dramatic, and historic, K-Dramas.
Dating from 1395 and decked with shrines and gardens, Seoul is the perfect starting point before you next hit the picturesque laneways and houses of Bukchon Hanok village for another cultural deep dive, six centuries in the making.
Northern exposure
Barely an hour north of Seoul, another huge draw is the Demilitarised Zone or DMZ, which splits North and South Korea along the 38th parallel, offering a unique and surreal window on the decades-old conflict. Telescopes even let you look into North Korea when you visit.
Seoul food
Seoul is also a food wonderland, so choose to dine on brilliant local street eats in labyrinthine markets like Gwangjang, or hit Gangnam – yes, that Gangnam –for some of the most sophisticated and inventive fine dining that Asia has to offer.
Historical & cultural charm
Duly buzzing with urban energy, a visit to the coastal city of Gyeongju shows a whole different side and pace of Korean life. As the former capital of the ancient Silla kingdom, it is known as ‘the museum without walls’, for good reason. It’s dotted with remarkable UNESCO World Heritage sites including Seokguram Grotto.
Step back in time
Atmospheric pagodas and palaces, serene Buddhist temples, rock carvings and ancient tombs all reveal why the Silla Dynasty was so important in Korean history, while museums and experiences like tea ceremonies add to the rich cultural tapestry.
Be sure to experience the hot springs, mountains and lakes that surround Gyeongju and offer stunning views as you reflect on a destination that truly lets you step back in time.
Another side of South Korea entirely comes in captivating Jeju, known as the ‘Island of the Gods’ and home to jaw-dropping natural landscapes, from volcanic craters and lush tea fields to rocky coastlines and pristine beaches.
Sitting an hour’s flight from Seoul in the country’s far south, this island is a destination where walking boots are a must, as you’ll want to discover the mountains and valleys, misty waterfalls and other-worldly lava tubes of Manjanggul Cave. For those seeking a real challenge, towering Hallasan is the country’s highest mountain at almost 2,000 metres above sea level.
A brilliant local bounty of produce also draws foodies to South Korea, notably for the freshest seafood, some of which is
sourced by incredible octogenarian female divers known as haenyeo. Look out for the local delicacy of abalone and sea urchin, while black pork and Jeju tangerines are two other must-tries.
Where mountains meet the sea
Another unmissable coastal gem, where the West and East seas meet, Busan may be South Korea’s second largest city, but it retains a warm and friendly vibe with a gentle pace of life.
Locals and visitors alike love to kick back on the city’s beaches and in the flower-filled parks. For the more adventurous, Igidae Park boasts breathtaking coastal trails alongside dramatic cliffs. Gamcheon Cultural Village is another gem thanks to its layered streets of brightly coloured houses, which have been likened to Santorini in Greece.
One option definitely not for the faint of heart? Oryukdo Skywalk, where a transparent glass walkway lets you gaze down on the waves crashing far below. More great views come atop the 120-metre Busan Tower; visitors can also learn about the Korean War at the UN Memorial Cemetery Park.
Finally, Jagalchi is the country’s most famous seafood market, while shopping, spa and gallery visits are other great ways to appreciate life in the second city of Asia’s hottest destination.
“ Seoul is also a food wonderland, so choose to dine on bri lliant local street eats in labyrinthine markets like Gwangjang or hit Gangnam –yes, that Gangnam – for some of the most sophisticated and inventive fine dining that Asia has to offer .”
LENGTH 12 days
(low season)
South Korea is both modern and vibrant while also steeped in long established traditions. Experience these contrasting aspects on a journey encompassing the best the country has to offer. Visit ornate temple and palace complexes illustrating the country’s artistic history and culture. Learn about the more recent conflict of the Korean War and the divisions on the peninsula that remain today at the DMZ. Immerse yourself in the practices of Buddhism with the chance to stay at a UNESCO listed temple. Escape to the dramatic volcanic scenery of Jeju Island and lose yourself among the bustling markets and street food vendors of Seoul.
Arrive in Seoul where you are met and transferred by A&K to your stylish hotel. The following day, explore the grand Gyeongbok Palace, built in 1395, visit ancient Bukchon Hanok village, wander the vibrant Isadong and Gwangjang markets, and enjoy the NANTA show blending martial arts, comedy and culinary skills.
Explore the Joint Security Area and the Demilitarized Zone with a private guide, delving into Korean military history and ongoing tensions. Visit key sites and meet with a North Korean defector. Afterwards, tour Heyri Art Village. The next day, visit beautiful Nami Island or opt for a rail bike adventure.
Embark on a bullet train journey to Gyeongju, the ancient capital of the Silla dynasty. Accompanied by a private guide, explore UNESCO World Heritage Sites including Seokguram Grotto, with its guardian reliefs and large Buddha statue, and Bulguksa Temple, showcasing exquisite Buddhist art and architecture from the Silla period.
Explore the Daereungwon tomb complex, the burial mounds of the kings and nobility and visit Donggung Palace, its pavilions reflected in the serene waters of Wolji pond. Stay overnight at Haeinsa Temple for a complete Buddhist immersion, participating in meditation, chanting ceremonies and learning about Tripitaka Koreana wood blocks.
Delve into Busan, known for its beaches and the Busan International Film Festival. Visit Igidae Park, Oryukdo Skywalk, and the UN Memorial Cemetery Park. The next day, explore Taejongdae Park’s rocky beach and towering cliffs, fish markets, Busan Tower, and discover Gamcheon Culture Village’s art scene.
Private transfer to the airport for your flight to Jeju Island. Experience the unique scenery at Yongmeori Beach, marvelling at the dramatic Yongmeori Cliffs resembling a diving dragon. Visit Mount Sanbangsan and explore its cave and stunning ocean views, and discover Jeju’s tea culture at the Osulloc Green Tea Museum.
Explore the history and customs of haenyeo, Jeju’s women divers, at the Jeju Haenyeo Museum. Witness their skill firsthand at Seongsan Ilchulbong as they harvest from the sea. Conclude your day at Seongeup Folk Village, experiencing Jeju’s unique culture through traditional houses, schools, and stone monuments.
Hallasan Mountain, Jeju’s iconic landmark, towers at the island’s centre. Its national park boasts 368 parasitic cones and diverse plant life due to temperature variations. Hike well-developed trails for stunning views of craggy valleys and a crater lake from the summit. On the last day, enjoy a private airport transfer in Jeju for your flight to Seoul, before flying home.
Anchored by Europe’s largest port, Rotterdam boasts an intriguing blend of maritime heritage, sleek architecture and cosmopolitan charm. With a vibrant fusion of big-city vibes and laid-back ambiance – along with an emphasis on art, creativity, and sustainability – Rotterdam has something for everyone
BY TATYANA LEONOV
Depot Boijmans Van Beuningen
A bowl-like structure comprised of towering, curved mirrored walls, the Depot commands attention. Its innovative design ingeniously accommodates the overflow of around 150,000 items from the Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen, transforming them from mere storage into a captivating display. Art hangs on movable racks behind thick glass panels (some pieces are prominently displayed while light-sensitive pieces remain shielded), arranged across multiple levels and five climate zones to cater to different preservation needs. MVRDV, the design firm behind this architectural marvel, has revolutionised art storage.
Another MVRDV project, Rotterdam’s market hall is far from typical. Nestled within the arch of a private apartment building, it seamlessly merges the private and public realms. Here, locals and visitors can enjoy fresh produce and gourmet delights, all under a striking ceiling adorned with larger-than-life murals of flowers, food and insects, pulling inspiration from the Dutch Masters of the 17th century.
These unique homes are known for their eye-catching architectural style, characterised by their cube-shaped design and vibrant yellow colouring. Emerging from the need to rebuild after World War II and a desire to move away from utilitarian architecture, they showcase a modern shift in design.
Rotterdam is relatively compact, and many major attractions are accessible by foot. Beyond the centre, the city boasts an extensive public transport network, and cycling is a popular way to get around. The most interesting way to explore, however, is by water taxi. Operating along the Nieuwe Maas river and various canals, this on-demand service – bookable via the Watertaxi Rotterdam app – offers an efficient, convenient and affordable travel option, all the while providing scenic views of the cityscape.
A free-for-all art display, Rotterdam’s public art collection has been developed over several decades, gaining significant momentum in the post-World War II era, when efforts to rebuild the city included a focus on integrating art into public spaces to symbolise renewal. From Picasso to a plethora of local talent, the city’s streets and nooks serve as an ever-evolving canvas. Join a tour or use the self-guide app to take it in at your own pace.
Kunsthal Rotterdam
Opened in 1992, the Kunsthal is another of Rotterdam’s icons of modern architecture, as well as one of the leading cultural institutions in the Netherlands. The building accommodates
a diverse and rotating range of exhibitions; if you’re visiting late 2024 or early 2025, DIVA promises to be a captivating exhibit showcasing how famous divas throughout time have challenged norms and reshaped perspectives.
The windmills of Kinderdijk
Set amid the tranquil Dutch countryside, these UNESCO World Heritage-listed windmills are the very ones you’ve likely admired on postcards. For the ultimate Dutch holiday experience, catch the Waterbus from the foot of Erasmus Bridge with your rental bike, and cycle through the picturesque landscape with these historic structures providing a stunning backdrop.
Located under a former railway viaduct, Michelin-starred FG Food Labs can be a noisy and gritty dining experience. But it’s precisely this down-to-earth atmosphere that draws in the crowds. Lunchtime is a casual affair featuring a street-food menu, while dinner offers a more creative and lengthy dining experience. Regardless of when or what you’re devouring, all dishes are crafted from top-notch, mostly local produce and chef-owner François Geurds excels at perfecting flavours, which he develops in his own highly specialised flavour laboratory.
Restaurant Rotonde
Opened in 2023, Restaurant Rotonde is for those who appreciate vegetables – in fact, it has earned a Michelin Green Star for its sustainable practices. Chef Jord Coree uses the woodfire method to prepare meals, often surprising diners with vegetables, grains and fruits they may have never encountered. Pair your meal with a glass of natural wine, and you’re practically saving the planet with every bite and sip.
This popular restaurant floats on a sustainable wooden office building, offering magnificent views of the Rotterdam skyline accompanied by delicious seasonal fare. The vibe here is edgy and eclectic, and menus are designed to be shared. Sample an array of small plates and allow yourself to be swept away (not literally) by the flavours of each dish.
Het Park
Rotterdam’s largest public green space is a serene oasis with colourful flowerbeds in spring, lush summer greenery and autumnal displays among winding pathways. It’s where locals come to soak up the outdoors and reconnect with nature, and visitors can meander, catching their breath after a day of sightseeing. Recent restoration efforts include upgraded amenities and reshaped landscapes.
Morgan & Mees
One of the latest hotel openings in Rotterdam is a fun and characterful establishment that nods to the city’s vibrant culture and modern architecture. Located in a Bauhausstyle building constructed in 1938, this boutique hotel offers 20 rooms and suites, a restaurant, cocktail bar and covered terrace. Book the penthouse with views of the Depot, and you’ll probably never want to leave.
Hotel New York
Situated in an historic building once serving as the headquarters of the Holland America Line, this legendary hotel offers a glimpse into Rotterdam’s seafaring past. From the grand lobby adorned with nautical motifs to the elegant guest rooms featuring vintage decor and panoramic views of the bustling harbour, staying here is both a treat and a history lesson.
Colonial splendour, Caribbean soul and unfaltering pride define Colombia’s Cartagena. This is a city both lively and soothing, with a spirit wholly its own
Grace is on sale now for USD$105 (around AUD$185)
PLACES TO DWELL FOR THE DESIGN DILETTANTE
RAFFLES LONDON AT THE OWO BULLO RIVER STATION
BOWIE HOUSE KIMPTON MARGOT SYDNEY WARREN STREET HOTEL
London’s first Raffles hotel, which has opened inside a historic building that was formerly Britain’s War Office, is an intriguing confluence of past and present
You get a sense of The OWO’s storied past as you approach it. The imposing Edwardian building proudly stands facing Whitehall, a London thoroughfare and a prominent government hub that leads to iconic landmarks like Westminster Abbey, the Houses of Parliament and Big Ben. It’s no coincidence that this luxurious new hospitality destination neighbours some of the capital’s most historically and politically significant sites – in its past life, it was Britain’s War Office, a secretive, labyrinthine structure that served as the hub for military operations during World Wars I and II.
The trapezium-shaped structure was built in 1906 and, over the decades, bore witness to conversations, strategies, and decisions from the likes of Winston Churchill and David Lloyd George. It was the birthplace of MI5 and MI6, ultimately sparking the inspiration for then-naval intelligence officer Ian Fleming’s world-famous James Bond spy novels.
In September 2023, following a meticulous eight-year renovation and restoration, the 76,000-square-metre, grade II-listed building opened to the public for the first time as The OWO. Debuting inside its walls is London’s first Raffles hotel, joining an ever-growing inventory of five-star hotels in the British capital.
In the 21st century, the site’s purpose has changed considerably, but relics of its history still remain. This is perhaps no more evident than when stepping into the hotel’s entrance hall to face the grand staircase, a marker of grandiosity cast from Painswick stone, English alabaster, Piastraccia Italian marble and Brescia marble. Ascending its red-carpeted staircase, softly lit by a magnificent chandelier overhead, feels like stepping back in time.
On the second floor, five heritage suites offer elevated levels of space and opulence. Stepping inside the Haldane Suite, I notice the soaring ceilings, which might be the highest I’ve seen in a hotel room, and appreciate how Thierry Despont, the late French designer tasked with the interiors for Raffles, has succeeded in communicating the significance
of the rooms by enhancing rich details like oak panelling, original mantlepieces and custom furniture. The lavish effect is replicated down the hall in the Churchill Suite, where deep-green Damask wall upholstery and dark timber are met with intricately carved cornicing and classic chandeliers.
In the seemingly never-ending corridors leading to my suite, vibrant red carpeting features a cubed pattern that mirrors the building’s original floor grilles; meanwhile, drapes are adorned with leather and studding that is a nod to the uniforms worn by the Horse Guards, whose daily changing ceremony occurs opposite The OWO.
Raffles enlisted best-in-class partners across design, hospitality and wellness when conceptualising how the hotel would be brought to life. Acclaimed Argentine chef Mauro Colagreco – best-known for his three-Michelinstarred restaurant, Mirazur, in France – helms three dining concepts, bringing his seasonally driven culinary approach to London with an all-day brasserie, fine-dining restaurant and a private chef’s table.
Restaurant Saison, Colagreco’s elegant brasserie that occupies a former library, evokes the feel of a Mediterranean courtyard with its trellised walls, leafy greenery and glass arcade ceiling. The menu marries European influences with British ingredients, seen in dishes like Orkney scallop crudo with blood orange, West Country lamb with confit shoulder gnocchi, and Cornish cod à la Provençale. Service is flawless, with each dish beautifully presented on white tablecloths along with paired wines from an assured sommelier. Breakfast the next morning is an equally elegant affair. I order from the à la carte menu and fuel up on golden-hued scrambled eggs accompanied by smoked trout and brioche toast, served with a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice. A compact buffet offers an assortment of fresh pastries, breads, seasonal fruit, British cheeses and cold meats.
“The trapezium-shaped structure was built in 1906 and, over the decades, bore witness to conversations, strategies, and decisions from the likes of Winston Churchill and David Lloyd George.”
2.5: The distance, in miles, of original corridors
3: The staffing ratio (per guest room) at Raffles London
5: Number of James Bond films in which the building has starred as MI6 HQ
25: The depth, in metres, that excavation works reached during the redevelopment
47: The number of new lifts added to the building
1,100: Rooms that the original building contained when it was completed in 1906
19,000: Distance, in feet, of ornamental cast-iron grilles that were installed around the hallways and corridors of the original building for telephone and bell wires
350 million: GBP, the widely reported purchase price of the building in 2016
At the Guards Bar and Lounge, guests can libate in the same room where workers of the War Office once did.
Fans of Raffles’ signature Singapore Sling cocktail will be pleased to see it on the menu alongside a freshly created London version and a seasonal Sling, showcasing a recipe from Raffles’ global properties. There are extravagances, too – a cocktail made with vintage spirits can set you back as much as £750, while the hotel’s exclusive six-litre Louis XIII de Rémy Martin Cognac is optionally paired with caviar and poured from a mathusalem into a Château Baccarat degustation glass.
During The OWO’s redevelopment, an astounding 64,000 square metres of earth was excavated, 25 metres below ground, helping to make way for Raffles’ four-storey wellness space, where guests and private residents can recuperate and relax. A 20-metre swimming pool lined with sun loungers is complemented by a Guerlain spa with nine treatment rooms, a sauna, steam room and vitality pool. Health club Pillar Wellbeing provides comprehensive consultations and wellness programs, fitness classes with some of London’s best instructors, and sports recovery technology like compression boots.
ABOVE The OWO’s grand staircase © Grain London
It may be easy to while away the hours in the lap of Raffles’ luxuries or getting lost in the fascinating heritage of The OWO. Yet the building is but one slice of London’s history and guests will find myriad attractions just moments from the bottom of that majestic staircase – from wandering the banks of the Thames to take in the city’s mishmash of architecture, strolling through the royal palace-bordered grounds of St. James’s Park, or listening for the chime of Big Ben. Past into present, London is calling.
Room rates at Raffles London at The OWO start from £884 (about AUD$1,693) per night. raffles.com
Award-winning accommodations, exceptional shore excursions, flexible dining options and a unique relaxed luxury atmosphere. This is the Avalon difference.
THE PANORAMA SUITE SM DIFFERENCE Our unique room design makes the scenery the star Open-Air Balconies SM maximise your room space
Wall-to-wall, floor-to-ceiling windows open 7-feet wide
Comfort Collection Beds SM for a restful sleep
Hotel-quality bathrooms with large showers and L’Occitane® products
Complimentary room service available for Continental breakfast, lunch and dinner
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In the remote reaches of the Northern Territory, conservation-driven Bullo River Station offers an authentic outback experience with a mission to reignite a love and respect for our ancient lands
Bullo River Station’s ‘Wild Wine Escape’ will return from 30 August to 2 September 2024 and will be hosted by Voyager Estate’s chief winemaker, Tim Shand. During the four-day retreat, guests will delve into a distinct luxury and epicurean experience combining the very best of Australian wine, food and outback discovery.
Out of the corner of my eye I sense movement, and I whip my head around, eyes wide. I’m in the Northern Territory, home to one of the world’s most cunning predators – saltwater crocodiles – and consequently, this city girl is on high alert. It’s fresh in my mind that just the night before, while enjoying a delicious meal of unctuous handmade gnocchi with mushrooms, broccolini and tomato, I had signed a waiver. “This is just to confirm that we are in a dangerous area and you will follow our instructions at all times. When we say stop, you stop,” says Sandi from guest services – at the wise moment I’m halfway through a moreish glass of chilled Voyager Estate Nouveau Rouge.
I shouldn’t have worried. For starters, I am staying at the remote, yes, but very safe working cattle station and homestead, Bullo River Station. And secondly, it was only a hen, plucking away at something on the ground as it ambled past the doors of my pool-front room with all the arrogance of a paying guest.
The hens at Bullo River Station – all 24 of them – are the true definition of free range. These blessed birds have run of the land at Bullo, picking at the lawn, meandering past the pool and foraging around the guest wing by day; before fatherly chef David Rayner puts his feather babies to bed in their luxe chicken coop each evening. What a life, I think – as much about the chickens’ as my own as I take in the beauty of the grounds before me, which is but a speck in the 162,000 hectares that make up Bullo River Station’s parcel.
Just 15 per cent of this vast expanse is developed for Bullo’s accommodation and cattle grazing, with the remaining 85 per cent dedicated conservation areas. Owners Alex and Julian Burt believe that cattle grazing and conservation can coexist harmoniously, and the station implements innovative cattle and pasture management practices to reduce environmental impact. These include rotational grazing, repairing gully erosion and responsible water usage. In 2017 the property also began a 10-year partnership with the Australian Wildlife Conservancy (AWC), whose representatives frequently visit Bullo to take out scientific biodiversity monitoring, research, weed control, planned burning and feral herbivore management for weeks at a time.
As a low-impact luxury tourism destination, Bullo’s sustainability ethos is highly visible. Some 80 per cent of the station’s electricity is powered by solar, and around half of all fruit and vegetables are grown on the property for staff and guests. The station composts most of its green and organic waste for use back in the vegetable garden, and single-use plastic is nowhere to be found. Its mission is to foster its guests’ connection to the land, its complex ecosystems and its wildlife, and each room contains a booklet listing the confirmed native animal species sighted on the property. The latest count is 309, including 32 mammal, 67 reptile, 184 bird, 20 frog and six fish species.
“This land, regardless of state lines, is at the very heart of the experience at Bullo, one that I’m told many international guests choose because they are seeking an authentic outback experience.”
Guests will find full waterholes and waterfalls flowing at their best. While it can still be quite humid during April, the payoff is being rewarded with lush, green landscapes. This is also prime fishing season at Bullo River Station.
The rains and the last of the clouds will have disappeared, bringing warm, dry days, ideal for outdoor exploring.
The peak of the dry season, daytime temperatures still reach a pleasant 30°C, but the evenings are cool. The dryer months also set the stage for unparalleled stargazing opportunities.
Arguably the best months to visit for bird enthusiasts. Birdlife congregates around the last remaining waterholes, making it easier to spot them.
Beyond my interactions with the domestic animals at the station – cuddling the aforementioned hen, Eva, and patting one of the resident water buffaloes, Bertha, who has a penchant for grated carrot and licking people’s jeans – I witness numerous wildlife thriving in their natural habitats during my brief 2.5 days at Bullo. It’s a twitcher’s delight: there are pairs of wedge-tailed eagles (the largest bird of prey in Australia) and white-bellied sea eagles, red-tailed black cockatoos, magpie geese, green pygmy geese, red-winged lorikeets, black-necked stalks and jumpy, fluttery finches (the endangered Gouldian finch, star finch and masked finch have also been sighted at Bullo). I also see various reptiles, including – during the 45-minute helicopter ride from Kununurra to the homestead – a few of the deadly, prehistoric variety. Saltwater crocodiles (‘salties’) are a common sight on the sunny banks of the Bullo River. From my position high up in the sky, it feels good to be at the top of the food chain.
If the croc-spotting helicopter ride didn’t give it away, it’s all about the outdoor adventure at Bullo. At this all-inclusive property, which was recently welcomed into the Luxury Lodges of Australia porftolio, guests are given the schedule for the following day’s activities on a hand-written card – along with an amusing tale from the homestead’s history – upon turndown each evening. On my first morning at Bullo, after reaching the end of its 75-kilometre driveway (an adventure in itself), guide Ryan takes me to a protected rocky sandstone outcrop with charcoal-blackened earth underfoot. This detail is a clear sign the site was once used as a camp by Indigenous communities – thought to be the Miriuwung-Gajerrong people. A near-perfectly preserved mural of Indigenous rock art reveals itself, the white, yellow and red ochre depicting the shapes of men, snakes, fish and revered deities. The site is estimated to be around 2,000 years old, and yet I can’t tear my eyes away from the small handprints, which appear as though they could have just been left by a child a few years older than my daughter.
Touring rock art sites with Bullo’s guides is just one of the myriad immersive cultural activities on offer. I enjoy a dip at (safe) waterhole ‘Marlee’s Bath’, followed by a gourmet bush barbecue (Bullo wagyu steak and sausages, pumpkin macadamia salad, homemade focaccia). Another morning is spent bird-watching while wandering around a billabong. A 4WD journey also takes me to ‘Dingo Boab’ – the most magnificent boab tree I’ve ever seen, with a 14.7-metre-wide canopy and a bulbous trunk that dwarfs mere mortals. There’s the scrumptious lunch at a remote hilltop site overlooking majestic Lesley Lake, and sunset drinks beneath fairy lights strewn over boab branches,
with agile wallabies snacking and playfully boxing nearby. I even manage to squeeze in a stargazing lesson under a clear, light-pollution-free sky, and witness a dusty-aired muster in action at the impressive cattle station.
For the adrenaline junkies for whom these activities are mere child’s play, there are the heli adventures, and Bullo saves the best until last during my stay. On my final morning, the staff instructs me to be ready at 6:45am, and at first light I am whisked away in a light-as-a-feather chopper, doors notably absent, as we soar over rippling countryside, a patchwork of green from the just-ended wet season. I marvel as the skilled pilot, without breaking a sweat, elegantly lands at the teeny-tiny summit of a rocky outcrop with 360-degree views of the Victoria River and beyond, before setting up my very own sunrise viewing spot – chairs, breakfast and all. Like he hadn’t done enough.
Northern Territory native Ryan tells me that the land surrounding Bullo River Station – with its beautiful boabs, sandstone gorges and waterfalls – “feels more like the Kimberley than the NT”. This land, regardless of state lines, is at the very heart of the experience at Bullo, one that I’m told many international guests choose because they are seeking an authentic outback experience. It makes me think: avid travellers that we Australians are, it’s easy to set our sights on the world beyond our borders. But when it’s time to return home, thank goodness there is a place like Bullo to remind us of the beauty found in our own backyard – a place to come back down to Earth.
Bullo River Station’s guest season runs during the NT’s dry season, from April to September. Nightly rates start from $1,350 per person, per night (minimum stay two nights), on an allinclusive basis, including meals, refreshments and beverages, daily on-station activities, private guided tours and a short, scenic helicopter flight. Flights and transfers are not included. bulloriver.com.au
Bullo River Station is accessible by private air charter or helicopter from Darwin or Kununurra, as well as from other homesteads in the region. The station can also be accessed via Victoria Highway (4WD required). Contact the station for suggested flight operators and driving instructions as the roads are not accessible at all times.
An esteemed global design team have conjured up a luxurious mix of past and present on Cunard’s lavish new ocean liner, Queen Anne
Luxury British cruise line Cunard’s newest ‘Queen’ has been unveiled, with the highly anticipated Queen Anne having made her maiden voyage in May of this year. The luxurious new 330-metre ship exudes sophistication, and pays homage to the brand’s 184 years on the water with a cruise experience that reimagines the golden age of sea travel.
Queen Anne is the latest chapter in a story of unrivalled cruising excellence. Since Cunard’s first ship left its port nearly two centuries ago, the line has been known for setting and then raising the bar on ocean travel. Its new Queen is a reflection of this rich history, transporting guests to an age of refined luxury through a design narrative that artfully layers the past onto the present. Guests will feel like they are experiencing a bygone era, where rich detail and sumptuous finishes combine with state-of-the-art inclusions for a sea adventure befitting its royal name.
A design team comprising some of the world’s most exceptional talent has executed this vision, with Cunard engaging leading names in global
hospitality and hotel design to curate its vision for Queen Anne. Hospitality designer Adam Tihany led the team as creative director, collaborating with French designer Sybille de Margerie, British studios David Collins Studio and Richmond International to create design powerhouse that could redefine the boundaries of ship design.
The design brief was anchored in five pillars: heritage, craftsmanship, storytelling, style and innovation. In meeting these pillars, the team immersed themselves in Cunard’s archives, spending time at the University of Liverpool among a rich trove of historical documents and details. No stone was left unturned, with everything from poster advertisements, brochure covers and plans of grand spaces from Cunard’s early art deco ships all serving as visual motifs for Queen Anne’s design. This approach was was “an enchanting bridge from Cunard’s storied history to the future… just the way a worldrenowned orchestra delivers a feeling,
or takes you to a moment or an era, Queen Anne’s aesthetic would do the same in harkening Cunard’s gilded age, but through the bold, onward lens of modernity,” says Tihany. Lewis Taylor, design director at David Collins Studio adds: “We have added layers of architectural details and design codes that refer back to Cunard’s history and that add a touch of whimsy and British eccentricity to the experiences. These architectural design elements along with the exquisite level of service on board, will make the new vessel truly unique.”
The design brief comes to life in the guest staterooms. In the iconic Queens Grill Suites, David Collins Studio created atmospheric private residences that give guests their own apartment on board Queen Anne. Here, details are carefully considered, distilling the five design pillars across an expansive space complete with a dedicated dining room and adjacent butler’s pantry, walk-in wardrobes, marble finished bathrooms with views out to sea, a spacious bedroom and the largest balconies on board.
In the Princess Grill Suites, Sybille de Margerie has created an environment that is soft, warm and inviting. Delicate textures and sumptuous materials offer intimacy and seclusion, while sculpted ceiling panels, grand saloon carpets and bespoke wall panels each tell a story of decades and centuries past.
A colour palette of rich reds, ambers and gold heightens the luxurious feel of these rooms, with the golden undertones of these spaces continuing into the Queens Grill Suites to maintain a refined aesthetic consistent with the Cunard name.
Common spaces continue to evolve this design vernacular, expertly synchronising past and present by playing with light, space and colour to curate the guest experience.
In the Grand Lobby, a metal mural sculpture is the highlight of this space, changing throughout the day via a lighting installation that flits and shines as the hours pass by. Spanning all three levels of this show-stopping space, the sculpture is the centrepiece of Queen Anne, and serves as a celebration of ocean travel. It’s a sight to behold, and one that is mesmerising.
The striking new design direction is matched by a commitment to hospitality and entertainment that caters to guests of all persuasions.
Fifteen distinctive restaurants offer a wide variety of cuisines, ambience and décor, from the beautiful Britannia Restaurant to the relaxed and everpopular Golden Lion pub. Guests can dine under the setting sun or from within the snug interiors of each of these eateries, with options for fine dining to light snacks all available. Guests are also spoilt for choice when it comes to aperitivo, aperitif, and everything in between, with cocktails able to be enjoyed in the Grand Lobby in the Chart Room, on the forward deck in the Commodore Club, or up in the clouds with the panoramic Sky Bar.
Those in search of some fun can enjoy one of the Queen Anne’s entertainment venues, including the lavish Royal Court Theatre, a reimagined Queens Room for events and Gala Evenings, a cabaret show bar, a casino, and a glittering showbar inspired by Cunard’s heritage as the first to bring electric lights to the launch of a new ocean liner.
Queen Anne also marks the launch of the brand’s Pavilion Wellness Studio.
Embracing the open skies and endless horizon, the studio enables guests to unwind with yoga and meditation at sunset, or limber up with Pilates, circuit classes or whatever takes their fancy, all against a backdrop of the sparkling seas. The studio joins the iconic Mareel Wellness & Beauty offerings, with world-class beauty, thermal and spa facilities available to guests across the ship.
Wherever one goes, or whatever one does on board Queen Anne, their journey will be marked by a trip not just around the world, but across the ages; with design, experiences and hospitality all coming together to create an exceptional offering that has been continually refined for more than 180 years. As one room unfolds into another, they are enveloped by spaces that expertly combine the romance of the past with the luxury of the new, creating an experience that is unmatched across the globe.
In the words of Cunard vice president brand and product, Lee Powell, “Queen Anne embodies all the characteristics that make this brand so well-loved and at the same time reimagines the complete ship experience extending the Cunard Line for future generations. She will be the finest ship of her era.”
Experience the journey of a lifetime on Queen Anne. Bookings are now available for her maiden season in 2024, as well as options for 2025 and 2026, including her first World Voyage in January 2025 as part of which she will visit New Zealand and Australian shores. cunard.com
“ We have added layers of architectural detai ls and design codes that refer back to Cunard’s history and that add a touch of whimsy and British eccentricity to the experiences .”
REVIEWED BY KATE SYMONS
Texan hospitality is world-renowned and still, Fort Worth newcomer Bowie House has outdone expectations. The five-star property, located in the city’s cultural district, reimagines country charm to deliver a striking brand of Western luxury. Rooms and suites are decadent, layered with texture and exuding a sense of place.
Pronounced ‘boo-ee’, Bowie House is a short walk to the city’s galleries and museums, which include the Kimbell Art Museum, the Amon Carter Museum of American Art and, particularly fittingly, the National Cowgirl Museum and Hall of Fame. But if it’s art on your agenda, Bowie House is this critic’s choice.
Bowie House is part of the Auburge Resorts stable – pun intended – but is owned by legendary equestrian, champion horse breeder and renowned businesswoman, Jo Ellard. And you can add to Ellard’s resume an exquisite eye for art. Her personal collection, featuring no fewer than 400 pieces, now adorns Bowie’s walls and the result is gallery-standard. Public art tours are run twice weekly.
While the artworks span various themes, mediums and time periods, the surrounding decor is committed to the Western aesthetic. No opportunity to honour the motif has been missed, yet it is never overdone.
The hotel’s main restaurant is Gio’s Restaurant & Terrace, with a swoon-worthy position directly overlooking the Grand Canal and alongside the hotel’s Italianate garden. In true Italian spirit, I opt for a classic aperitivo hour cocktail on the outdoor terrace at the Garden & St. Regis bar. Signature cocktails include the Santa Maria – the hotel’s own interpretation of a Bloody Mary, named in honour of the domed basilica directly opposite the hotel.
Brick and Horses is the hotel’s signature restaurant and the large-scale Constance Jaeggi (Rat Pack) is a handsome dinner companion. Expect upscale Texan fare, with dry-aged local beef the menu’s star. Away from the selection of ‘Steaks and Chops’, as the menu puts it, dishes such as Ritz and Dips, Crab Cake Louie (both appetisers), Fish Fry and Texas Broil are a reminder of where I am dining. Likewise, the pie cart, which is doing the rounds with a chocolate pecan mud pie, a Dutch apple pie and a sweet potato pie. I couldn’t possibly.
Drinks arrive via The Bar at Bowie House, a large restaurantadjacent lounge that’s worth checking out in its own right. The bar itself is a 150-year-old beauty, refurbished after it was acquired by Ellard with help from an antiques dealer.
Breakfast offers a similar nod to the locale. The country biscuit spread proves to be a much easier, if only lighter, way for this Aussie to taste the destination than the suggested Steak and Eggs. I also appreciate the flat white – uncommon around these parts.
“ e ve-star property, located in the city’s cultural district, reimagines country charm to deliver a striking brand of Western luxury.”
Ash Spa is the sanctuary you would expect from a hotel of this calibre. The menu is thoughtfully curated and includes a selection of both traditional and innovative treatments and techniques. Likely to pique the interest of the international market, there is an option to add CBD massage oil and balm to your treatment. The sauna and steam room are available for all guests, not just those with a spa appointment. The fitness centre is clean and well-equipped (the reformer pilates bed a generous inclusion), while the heated outdoor pool boasts private cabanas and an on-site bar.
As if the deep-soaking tub, framed beautifully by emerald green subway tiling, wasn’t inviting enough, the bath-time ritual – think cedar smudging stick, muscle and joint CBD balm, and magnesium flakes – strikes me as especially considered. The Mulberry Room (library) and Billet Room (games) are both beautifully appointed and worth a visit. Texas Hold ‘Em, anyone?
At 176 square metres, the Goodnight Suite is truly palatial, with a Western sensibility, of course. The dining room seats 10, the living room features a grand fireplace, and the king bedroom includes a walk-in closet.
ROAN SUITE
SIZE 79-87m2
PRICE PER NIGHT Starting from USD$1,595 (about AUD$2,405) WEBSITE auburgeresorts.com
ABOVE, TOP RIGH T Pool time © Noe Dewitt
ABOVE, BOTTOM RIGHT Rooms channel the Texan location © Noe Dewitt
PREVIOUS The swanky billet room © Auberge Resorts Collection
PAGE 142 The luxe library © Stephen Karlish
OPENING PAGE The hotel’s dramatic exterior © Noe Dewitt
WORDS BY BY MADELIN TOMELTY
With its ultra-convenient location at the southern tip of the CBD, Kimpton Margot Sydney is within easy reach of the city’s most desirable neighbourhoods and attractions. Chinatown’s smorgasbord of lip-smacking Asian cuisine is just down the road, while major retail destinations – Queen Victoria Building, Pitt Street Mall, Westfield and David Jones – are an easy seven-minute walk away. Another short stroll will see you arrive at buzzing Darling Harbour with its myriad restaurants, family attractions and that inner-city sanctuary: the Chinese Garden of Friendship. For a slightly more refined crowd, Barangaroo’s elegant waterfront restaurants are a 20-minute walk or 10-minute drive away, as are buzzing Surry Hills and upmarket Paddington. When you’re all tuckered out from exploring, the fig tree-lined avenues and green stretches of Hyde Park – just a three-minute walk from the hotel – offer ample shady spots for a rest (or siesta).
Located in the heritage-listed, former Sydney Water Board offices building, Kimpton Margot Sydney is considered one of the finest examples of original Art Deco architecture in Australia. Eight towering pink scagliola columns restored by world-leading Italian master craftsmen take centre stage
in the expansive, light-filled lobby, which also showcases original 1930s details including restored marble travertine flooring, metal-framed windows, intricate bronze work and glazed terracotta tiles. Splashes of bronze and brass in everything from the imposing reception desk to the eyecatching Art Deco lighting nod to the old-world glamour of the 1930s. That eclectic, San Francisco-born Kimpton DNA, meanwhile, adds a modern flourish to the interior design through a rotating curation of more than 600 colourful, contemporary artworks, plush furniture in tactile velvets and vivid prints, and bountiful botanical displays.
As was the case with the building’s previous iteration, the Primus Hotel, Kimpton Margot Sydney’s rooms are some of the most spacious you can find in Sydney. My 61-squaremetre Margot Suite boasts an oversized living space with two lounges along with a corner desk, and the bedroom’s Art Deco-inspired ensuite, replete with oversized bathtub, is practically big enough to be a room in itself. It’s these generous proportions that add the luxury factor to my suite, whose design is pared back and neutral, but for the odd piece of modern art.
In the unlikely event that none of the above piques your interest, do yourself a favour and stay at Kimpton Margot Sydney for the food alone. The Luke Mangan-helmed restaurant, Luke’s Kitchen, is the culinary jewel in the crown of this hotel, and modern Australian fare is served up with attentive yet relaxed service. Whet your appetite with prawn toast with corn salsa and chipotle aioli, or the sashimi of Spencer Gulf hiramasa kingfish with dashi and sesame dressing, pickled plum and radish – so delicious we ordered it on two occasions. For meat-lovers, you can’t go past the mouthwatering wagu cut with Mediterranean dressing, smoked eggplant and onion rings. In truth, it’s impossible to order the ‘wrong’ dish at Luke’s Kitchen –they are all that good.
Up on level seven, Harper Rooftop is the largest open-air rooftop bar in Sydney, and boasts a flashy pool ideal for those who want to soak up some rays waterside without battling the crowds of the eastern suburbs’ beaches. The menu offers elevated pub classics like fish-and-chips and burgers along with Mediterranean-style share plates and seafood – Sydney rock oysters never disappoint.
Cafe and bakery Pantry at Margot’s is a brilliant little addition to the hotel lobby, where stylish Wilmot Bar is also located. Serving top-notch barista coffee and grab-and-go breakfast and lunch options, it’s ideal for time-poor business travellers, who can pick up a croissant and flat white on their way out to a meeting.
If you don’t like hotel gyms but fancy getting some exercise while in Sydney, borrow one of the custom-designed Kimpton Lekker bikes and go exploring; or, request a yoga mat and ondemand video class from reception. Better yet, take your dog for a walk – Kimpton Margot Sydney is pet-friendly. The hotel also offers a hosted evening social hour every day from 5-6pm, so the next delicious mixologist-created tipple is never far off.
Spanning 160 square metres and boasting a separate openplan dining and living area with lounge seating, a powder room and even a butler kitchen, the Hammond Suite is the most palatial room on offer at Kimpton Margot Sydney.
MARGOT SUITE
SIZE 61m2
PRICE PER NIGHT From $549 WEBSITE kimptonmargotsydney.com
Coco Chanel once famously quipped, “Before you leave the house, look in the mirror and take at least one thing off.” e Kit Kemp Studio creative team behind Warren Street Hotel ignored her advice when conceptualising this freshly minted New York property in the city’s funky Tribeca neighbourhood. eir defi ant design instincts paid off. e property is best described as bold, with textures, colours and patterns that are at once head-scratching – and yet somehow harmonising. Step into your room and you’re front-and-centre with embellished headboards, custom upholstered furniture and whimsical bespoke lighting – a jewel box of treasures for those who like their accommodation to speak of place. Several suites feature beautifully landscaped terraces and gardens with wooden trellising sparkling with lights while ferns, cedars and pollinating plants encourage wildlife. e unique design elements are mixed with eclectic artworks, many exclusive to the hotel, including pieces by sculptors Tony Cragg and Wendell Castle. ese carry through to Warren Street Bar & Restaurant (pictured here), a modern brasserie serving a classic menu of dishes infused with global influences. Don’t know whether to look at your plate or the walls? at’s a fun conundrum.
firmdalehotels.com
FINE DINING & ONSENS IN JAPAN
GWINGANNA LIFESTYLE RETREAT
TIA WELLNESS RESORT
FYN SOUTH AFRICA
TRAVEL WITH THE DAILY STOIC
Two of Japan’s most treasured pleasures – fine dining and onsen bathing –unite on an eye-opening walking tour around the island of Kyushu
BY JOCELYN PRIDE
The private dining room of Amane Resort Seikai, a contemporary Japanese ryokan (inn) perched waterfront in Beppu city, Kyushu, is abuzz. Sporting black yukatas (robes) tied with a maroon obi sash, our group bonds over laughter and snippets of conversations like: “How did you go in the onsen?” and, “Isn’t it cool wearing a bathrobe to dinner?” It’s night one of our five-day journey through Oita and Kumamoto prefectures with Walk Japan.
“Itadakimasu,” says our guide Jon Finger, raising the aperitif, a pink nigori sake. “This is how we give thanks to the chefs, sun, water, nature – everything that’s made the meal possible.”
Over the next couple of hours, we’re introduced to kaiseki dining – storytelling through food, where every bite and sip reflects a sense of place and seasonality. “At each ryokan we go to the chef will prepare a kaiseki dinner. They’ll all be different, but follow a similar pattern – sashimi, steamed, fried, rice, miso soup, sweet,” Jon explains.
Tonight, course after course appears, presented as mini masterpieces on an array of hand-crafted ceramic bowls, glass jars, wooden boxes and platters. From the gleaming slivers of sashimi to baby fern porridge, wagyu beef with young wood sprouts and miso dressing, sweet-fish dusted with nuka bijin (a type of rice bran) powder and tempura shrimp with kuromame (black bean) dipping vinegar, everything is sourced locally and garnished with intricate splashes of revered cherry blossom and other spring flowers. Then there’s the regional sake, both sweet and dry – paired with each course by sommelier Tsuda san, who describes how the national drop brings out the flavours in food and acts as a palette cleanser.
Like the exquisite food, we soon discover onsen (hot spring) experiences bring another rich dimension to life in Japan’s southernmost main island.
“Course after course appears, presented as mini masterpieces on an array of hand-crafted ceramic bowls, glass jars, wooden boxes and platters.”
Mountainous and volcanic, Kyushu is home to thousands of natural hot springs, gurgling through a tapestry of forests and fields dotted with towns and villages.
“Between bathing and banqueting for breakfast, lunch and dinner, we explore Kyushu on foot. With a rural atmosphere, the island oozes olde world charm, history and natural beauty.”
OPPOSITE PAGE Kyushu never fails to impress © Kitinut/iStock
“An onsen is a good place to start for anyone wanting to understand Japanese culture,” says Jon, who moved here from Australia nine years ago with his Japanese wife and young family. “It can be a social occasion as well as relaxing.”
However, etiquette is everything.
Whether it’s a private or shared onsen (separate area for men and women), the protocols are the same – a complete wash before entering the water, nude bathing only, don’t let hair or the towel touch the water, and quiet conversations only.
I’m surprised how quickly I leave modesty at the door of our nightly ryokans, and embrace soaking in women-only onsens, in addition to the private baths.
Water temperature and mineral content varies between baths, as does the scenery. Locally known as the ‘onsen at zero metres above sea level’, Shiosai no Yu at Amane is the ultimate ‘infinity’ bath. One morning, cocooned in the openair onsen, I watch in awe as the rising sun paints the sky crimson, giving the illusion I’m floating over Beppu Bay.
My biggest challenge while soaking in the onsen at recently renovated Enokiya Ryokan – not far away, on the banks of the Oita River – is staying awake. Located in the centre of Yufuin, a pretty village with a European spa town vibe, the calming water is soft, clear and has the Goldilocks factor – not too hot and not too cool.
At Lamune Onsen – a playfully artistic building made from charred cedar and white plaster with quirky sculptures
Walk Japan’s headquarters is in Kyushu, where they a run a community project to help rural areas maintain a sustainable future. The project provides employment for local people, helps restore and regenerate the land and supports local familyrun businesses – they’ve also opened a school for children to learn English. Guests on tours within the area have the opportunity to visit the office and find out more about the work being done.
throughout the garden – I feel like I’m bathing in warm champagne. Tiny silvery bubbles cling to my skin and explode into a fizzy swirl each time I move my arms or legs. And lounging on large river stones in the Tolkien-esque onsen of Ryokan Sanga, surrounded by forest with rain pelting into the steamy water, takes some beating for ambience.
Between bathing and banqueting for breakfast, lunch and dinner, we explore Kyushu on foot. With a rural atmosphere, the island oozes olde world charm, history and natural beauty. Starting with Beppu’s ‘hells’ – a series of eight springs too hot for bathing, bearing names like ‘blood pond hell’ and ‘sea hell’ – we wander through the hotspots of town stopping to snack on eggs and even cake steamed by the precious water.
Other days we hike along pilgrimage trails lined with ancient stone statues; through forests where towering cedar and beech trees block the light; and across open fields laying fallow in preparation for the fast-approaching rice planting season. We pause to check out crops of shitake mushrooms being cultivated on wooden posts; spot ferns and pockets of tiny flowers that grace our dinner table at night; peek into caves where Buddhist deities stand grandly; learn how to bow when entering a Shintō shrine; and marvel at the glades of cherry blossom speckled across the ruins of Oka Castle.
And at days’ end, tucked into my futon, sleep comes easily and deeply. There’s definitely something in the water.
The fully escorted five-day ‘Onsen Gastronomy: Oita and Kumamoto’ is one of Walk Japan’s signature tours, and runs at various times throughout the year. The maximum number of guests per tour is 12 and there is no minimum group size. Rates start at JPY 360,000 per person (about AUD$3,485) inclusive of transport while on tour, all meals, drinks and accommodation. walkjapan.com
At Australia’s preeminent wellness retreat, magic happens when digital disconnection, solitude and sacred spa rituals unite
“By the time I leave Gwinganna, I already feel wistful for days where the only alerts are the kind written on a chalkboard stating the day’s menu, and the only sounds are those of the laughing kookaburras in the trees, the relaxed chatter of my fellow guests, and the occasional heavy-footed possum on my Moonarie Villa’s roof.”
Guests seeking a health retreat that still includes optional daily coffee, tea and wine
Those who are feeling fatigued and are seeking deep rest
Those seeking to disconnect from devices and unplug from the world
Those who wish to reignite their healthy intentions without the restrictions imposed by detoxification
Those seeking full immersion in nature
Those who enjoy nutritious food
If I had known that it was possible to experience an award-winning health retreat without giving up barista coffee, however temporarily, I might have become an advocate of Gwinganna Lifestyle Retreat a lot sooner.
Like bed hair and my daughter’s porridge, barista coffee is a mainstay of my mornings, and I can’t imagine life without it – nor do I particularly want to.
The staff at highly applauded Gold Coast hinterland haven Gwinganna Lifestyle Retreat put this – I think very healthy – lifestyle choice top of list when they created a radical new offering called ‘Healthy Escape’. Not only do guests have access to a barista-manned coffee cart on this three- or four-night retreat – and with, “gasp”, cow’s milk no less – they can also enjoy a glass of organic wine and even a dessert during their stay, too. The delicious meals served, like at all Gwinganna retreats, use seasonal, local, organic wholefoods, but the serving sizes are generous and the meals almost indulgent. Compared to Gwinganna’s other retreats, ‘Healthy Escape’ – and its two-night equivalent, ‘Wellness Weekend’ – is practically hedonistic.
The ‘Healthy Escape’ and ‘Wellness Weekend’ ethos was designed for people just like me – interested in many aspects of wellness retreats (spa treatments, meditation, being immersed in nature, disconnecting from the cascade of micro-stresses that city life brings), but who also don’t feel the need to deprive themselves of life’s simple pleasures. It’s a master stroke for Gwinganna, opening up a whole new cohort of potential customers who might have previously steered clear for fear of ‘boot camp’ vibes and a rigid rule book when it comes to deprivation of food, alcohol and technology.
© Frontline International
To be clear, technology is still (mostly) off the table, and it takes mere hours for me to see why. “All technology usage is restricted to within your room,” the guide in my suite states, qualified by: “However, mobile phones may also be used within the Cricket Stand.” (A small, quirky heritage cricket stand is one of the few places on site that gets cellular signal.) “Usage outside of these designated areas is regarded as extremely impolite,” I’m warned.
Always the law-abiding citizen, I spend the majority of my time at Gwinganna with my iPhone a long way from my person, and when I’m back in my room I use it sparingly, to check in with my solo-parenting husband – and little else.
We know from recent studies that limiting screen time can promote healthier cognitive development and creativity, reduce stress and anxiety, improve sleep and enhance social interactions. We’ve all read the articles that state that constant phone alerts elevate our cortisol levels, keeping us in a chronic state of fight, flight or freeze. And yet even knowing this, I am still a little shocked at how quickly I feel a shift in my being while at Gwinganna. Being unreachable for most of the day feels freeing, a little rebellious, and above all, relaxing. I am more aware of my environment, more present, and I notice a lack of that perpetual human crutch: mental chatter. I feel compelled to read Cal Newport’s Digital
Minimalism again, because I clearly didn’t heed his warnings the first time round.
“Digital minimalists are all around us. They’re the calm, happy people who can hold long conversations without furtive glances at their phones. They can get lost in a good book, a woodworking project, or a leisurely morning run. They can have fun with friends and family without the obsessive urge to document the experience,” Newport writes. He believes the key to thriving in our always-switched-on world is to spend much less time using technology, and I’m inclined to agree with him.
By the time I leave Gwinganna, I already feel wistful for days where the only alerts are the kind written on a chalkboard stating the day’s menu, and the only sounds are those of the laughing kookaburras in the trees, the relaxed chatter of my fellow guests, and the occasional heavy-footed possum on my Moonarie Villa’s roof. I know I will really miss the peaceful bushland environment – all 200 hectares of it, with ocean and valley views and troupes of sweet-faced wallabies – and the predictable rhythm of the day, designed to align with my body’s circadian rhythm.
Each morning at Gwinganna revolves around movement, and guests can choose to participate in restorative yin activities (yoga, pilates, meditative bush walks) or energising yang activities (circuit training, challenging hikes, deepwater running, drumming), depending on their energy levels and goals. Afternoons and evenings, by contrast, are for rest and relaxation. There are no daily seminars on the ‘Healthy Escape’ retreat – another conscious decision to stray from the usual retreat formula – and for many, afternoons are defined by restorative solitude.
Some of the guests, like myself, are fatigued working mothers relishing a few days free of the high-octane demands of clingy toddlers and the ‘ding ding’ of email notifications. Others are seeking a respite after a stressful time at work, or following a period of upheaval. There are lots of repeat guests: for one, it’s his 12th time at Gwinganna, and he tells me he visits at least once a year. Another guest I meet has been staying at this hilltop plot of paradise for a full month. Plenty of others are simply checked in to see what all the fuss is about, because it’s common knowledge that multi-time Luxury Travel Gold List Award winner, Gwinganna, is the best health retreat in Australia. And much of that accolade comes down to the spa.
Gwinganna’s Spa Sanctuary is the largest of its kind in the Southern Hemisphere, with 33 treatment rooms available for retreat guests. The architecturally-designed indoor-outdoor space hosts a long list of highly qualified wellness practitioners, many of whom are sought after in the Australian wellness world. The 160-treatment-strong
spa menu offers Western relaxation-based therapies as well as Eastern, holistic and spiritual rituals intended for physical or emotional healing. For the most impactful and transformative among them, though, the ‘Unique Gwinganna Experiences’ are the way to go.
The ‘Vagus Nerve Release’ treatment I book in for addresses stress and nervous system imbalances through abdominal massage and intuitive energy healing. My radiant therapist taps into messages from my organs and vagus nerve during the massage, sharing intuitive insights that bring on deep self-reflection in the days afterwards. In a similar vein, the transformative ‘Sacred Feminine Ritual’ – known as ‘Womb Hara Massage’ from the Institute of Feminine Arts – is unlike anything I’ve ever experienced. Designed to awaken the feminine life-force energy and connect women to their body’s deepest intuition, this unique experience releases physical and emotional congestion through the integration of several healing arts including Hawaiian lomi lomi, womb massage and guided somatic journeying. Beginning with an angel card reading and culminating in an ancient body-wrapping technique called ‘rebozo’, this is indeed a sacred experience that has a restorative effect on my mind and body.
On my last morning at Gwinganna, I discreetly look around at my fellow guests, bathed in the golden light of sunrise as we all move our arms and bodies in perfect synchronicity, dancing the gentle dance of qi gong. I see the many
people I’ve met and gotten to know over meals while at Gwinganna. There is the farmer and the interior designer, the psychologist and her uni student daughter, two film directors, a couple of scientists and even the odd famous person, including one of Australia’s most beloved cooks and authors. Gwinganna seems to attract swathes of interesting folks from all walks of life, from the far reaches of the country. But for now, who we are at home feels irrelevant. There is just the flowing movement of this morning ritual, in this tranquil environment, in this perfect moment… and the titillating promise of barista coffee with breakfast. It doesn’t get much better than that.
Gwinganna Lifestyle Retreat offers various wellness retreats throughout the year. The three-night ‘Healthy Escape’ starts from AUD$1,985 including accommodation in a Heritage Villa, all activities, one wellness seminar, all meals and drinks, one classic massage and a AUD$100 spa credit. Complimentary transfers are offered from the Gold Coast Airport at set times. gwinganna.com
Overlooking the sparkling waters of My Khe Beach in Da Nang, TIA Wellness Resort continues to evolve as a leader in Vietnam’s spa scene
WORDS BY KATE SYMONS
Scissors at the ready – I’ve got an hour on the clock and I am about to get lost in a stack of old glossy magazines. The end goal is a collage. A mish-mash of words, pictures and colours that inspire, that reflect my future as I see it.
I am at TIA Wellness Resort, a beachfront gem in Da Nang, Vietnam, where inventiveness is on the menu. Run daily, the resort’s creative workshops were designed by an art therapist and introduced to open possibilities for selfexpression and -development.
“We realised that a lot of people – they get stuck in their routines,” says TIA general manager, Ramon Imper. “They work from morning to evening, they try to exercise, they try to eat well… but there is one element people are missing, and it’s the element of creating something. It goes back to childhood.”
It certainly does. As a teenager, I would pore over the perfect placement of a new addition to my pinboard and, at the beginning of each school year, I would immerse myself in creating a miniature version on my new school folder. I was building vision boards before they were called vision boards. Why did I stop? Well, as Ramon points out, we get stuck in our routines.
In Vietnam, TIA – which means ‘ray’ in Vietnamese, as in, ‘ray of light’ – has been at the forefront of wellness since it opened in 2008. Then, it was Fusion Maia Da Nang and the first resort
in the country to introduce a spa-inclusive concept. A little more than a decade later, a planned refurbishment became a complete renovation and rebrand thanks to the resort’s pandemic-related closure. TIA emerged in 2021, having only strengthened its standing as a wellness innovator.
Via the rebrand, ‘spa-inclusive’ gave way to a pair of guest programs: wellness inclusive and retreat inclusive. The former is the entry-level program and includes two 80-minute spa treatments per day (one per villa guest), as well as daily wellness practices such as breathwork, yoga, tai chi and creative workshops. Retreat guests are afforded all this, plus an additional 80-minute master therapy each day and a plantbased meal plan.
TIA subscribes to the well-worn adage, “Eat breakfast like a king, lunch like a prince and dinner like a pauper”. Colourful and abundant, the morning buffet is proof of that.
“We don’t check what you eat for breakfast,” Ramon explains over our plant-based dinner. “We don’t want to be restrictive. We want to be a resort that can educate people and let people try new things.”
Minutes later, as I tuck into the raw lasagne, with its fresh, flavourful layers of ‘cheese’, sun-dried tomato sauce and avocado, I contemplate converting. But the dishes aren’t all hits; the Vietnamese raw pho, served for dinner the following evening, lacked substance, and I was quick to grab supper from the minibar when I returned to my villa – all healthy options, naturally.
Mine is a one-bedroom pool villa – there are also two- and three-bedroom options available. It is a generous space with a luxurious sunken tub and a lush outdoor courtyard. Black mala (prayer) beads are a reoccurring motif throughout the resort. I first admire them on the restaurant’s light fixtures, then incorporated in the staff attire. In the room, mala beads tie back the four-poster bed canopy and feature in print form on accent cushions.
Given the inclusions, it feels as though I spend as much time in the spa as I do in my room – not that I am complaining. Among my treatments, I enjoy a Himalayan heart stone massage, master reiki therapy, sound healing therapy and a hydro detox ritual.
With its two cold plunges, the latter is a challenge, but wellness comes in many forms and I certainly feel reinvigorated once I am defrosting in a fluffy resort towel. Meanwhile, my first experience with reiki piques my curiosity. With my eyes covered and very little in the way of physical contact with the practitioner, it does cross my mind that she could be sitting in the corner on her phone, for all I know. When she mentions my upset stomach at the end of the session – information I hadn’t shared – I am intrigued…or at least convinced she wasn’t scrolling Instagram.
Apart from the sessions that require a ‘master’, guests are treated to the same therapist for spa appointments across their stay. This is a welcome touch. Wellness manager Miss Du is another regular face. Her instruction throughout yoga, tai chi and breathwork sessions is gentle and knowledgeable; she represents the TIA ethos beautifully.
Says Ramon: “There is a special energy in Vietnam and especially with the Vietnamese people. They have a different approach to life, a different approach to problems. They have a different approach to the past and to the future. They live in the present moment and you really feel that here.”
It’s true, you do. Although living in the past isn’t so bad when there’s a stay at TIA in the memory bank.
“Among my treatments, I enjoy a Himalayan heart stone massage, master reiki therapy, sound healing therapy and a hydro detox ritual.”
Rates at TIA Wellness Resort start from USD$427 (about AUD$650) for a One Bedroom Pool Villa inclusive of all-day breakfast, an 80-minute wellness treatment per person per night, daily wellness mini-bar offerings (detox water, herbal teas, homemade snacks), and daily wellness activities (yoga, breathwork, tai chi, creative workshops). tiawellnessresort.com
CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP Mindful activities are part of the TIA ethos; a healthy ‘floating’ breakfast © Etienne Bossot
OPPOSITE PAGE Dreamy moments at Melia Ho Tram
Thanks to resorts like TIA, wellness travel is burgeoning in Vietnam. Resorts are dotted along the country’s coastline and they are offering wellness packages in increasing numbers.
In Ho Tram, on Vietnam’s southeast coast, Melia Ho Tram Beach Resort is one such establishment. The allinclusive property invites guests to elevate their stay with either a four- or seven-step wellness package. A 60-minute body massage, beauty treatment, turndown wellness ritual (your choice of a face mask, luxe bath, salt stones or cleansing drink) and wellness activities (think yoga tai chi, meditation) await those who opt for the short program. A detox menu comes into play for those who choose seven steps.
Package or not, there are considered in-room amenities with wellness in mind, too: the Tibetan singing bowl and shungite stones placed just-so at the foot of the bed; the fitness station, including hand weights, resistance bands, kettle bells, and a yoga ball and mat; the vitamin C shower filter; and a bedside amethyst stone, said to relieve stress and strain.
Meanwhile, Melia’s wellness pathway, inspired by the Japanese practice of shinrin-yoku (forest bathing), weaves its way throughout the grounds, leading walkers past eight stations including a reading nook (complete with street library), a bird-watching post and the meditation pavilion.
While the wellness packages at Melia are optional, the opportunity to feel well is surely not. With its beautifully manicured gardens, three restaurants, two postcard-perfect resort pools and a beachfront locale, Melia encourages wellness your way. melia.com
Japan and Africa unite at FYN, a restaurant that is at once cutting-edge in cuisine and yet captures age-old culinary traditions, ingredients and cooking techniques in its exquisite multi-course menus
WORDS BY NATASHA DRAGUN
Japanese-South African fare might not sound like the obvious choice for a culinary concept. But boy does it work at FYN, a Cape Town-based restaurant that describes itself as ‘a journey to somewhere’. That’s quite the understatement – it takes you on a whirlwind adventure of the flavour kind. And leaves you wanting to explore some more. Small wonder FYN stars on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list as an outstanding purveyor of sustainability, and also holds the distinction of being an exclusive Relais & Châteaux member.
The eatery is the brainchild of chef Peter Templehoff, a bit of a legend in South Africa’s dining scene. FYN is his first independent project, with Peter having studied at the Culinary Institute of America in New York, worked his way through a series of Michelin-starred establishments in London – where he was mentored by the likes of Marco Pierre White, Aaron
Pattern and Giogio Locatelli – and then return to South Africa to head up Grande Provence Heritage Wine Estate in Franschhoek. Along the way Peter’s passion for provenance grew, and at FYN he’s on a mission to spotlight sustainably sourced, ancient endemic ingredients. With a Japanese twist.
Following a trip to the ‘Land of the Rising Sun’ in 2008, Peter became mildly obsessed with how the Japanese use raw ingredients, apply heat in specific ways or use salt and acid to coax intense flavours from their produce. These techniques star on the FYN menu today in dishes like sweet tamagoyaki (rolled omelette) with Kasnodar caviar, perhaps. Or raw nylon shrimp in Cape curry with cucumber crystal shoyu. There’s as much precision on the plate as there is drama: take the abalone dish,
which Peter slices and cooks inside a kelp stem with garlic and wine; then the algae is cut open at the table in front of the diner in theatrical fashion, revealing the tender piece of seafood inside. Everything is served in the tradition of kaiseki, with each course more visually appealing than the last.
“I have a lot of room for Japan in my heart,” says Peter. “Not just the food but the culture, the people, everything. I am also very pleased with the way diners have taken to the food, as South African-Japanese has not really been done before and it was a big risk that has paid off so far.”
Glance at Peter’s menu and you’ll also notice his love affair with South Africa’s coastal plants like rooibos, buchu and fynbos – in fact, Peter named his restaurant after the latter Afrikaans word, which also means ‘fine’ in English. “The origin of ingredients has always fascinated me,” says the chef. “I only really get inspired if I know where the food that I’m preparing comes from. As I’ve been gathering plants and living creatures from the shore and sea, I have been fascinated to find out what our ancestors used to eat.”
Aside from its cuisine, FYN stands out for its jaw-dropping design, conceptualised by award-winning Cape Town interior architect Tristan du Plessis. A highlight is the eye-catching ceiling feature, reminiscent of both African beads and a Japanese abacus. An equally dramatic mural covers one wall, depicting a hybrid African princess warrior and Japanese maiden surrounded by fynbos, clutching a blue crane with the Japanese crane on her head. Peter called in tattoo artist Warren Petersen (known as Baked Ink) to complete this project. Then, continuing his sustainable ethos, looked to other local artists to produce things such as the crockery, furniture and additional works of art. If you can tear your eyes away from it all, you’ll notice that the restaurant also offers staggering views of Lion’s Head and Table Mountain from its rooftop position.
This dedication to design has not gone unnoticed: In July 2019 the restaurant was shortlisted for the prestigious Restaurant Bar & Design Awards in London, a globally recognised competition dedicated to the design of food and beverage spaces.
“At the end of the day, my passion comes from my love of flavours and that every plate is making someone happy,” says the chef. Smiles all around, Peter.
fynrestaurant.com
“I have a lot of room for Japan in my heart. Not just the food but the culture, the people, everything.”
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Contemporary philosopher, host of the Daily Stoic and New York Times best-selling author, Ryan Holiday is in Sydney and Melbourne through July and August hosting a transformative lecture series about selfmastery, perseverance and wisdom
What’s your idea of the perfect holiday?
The perfect holiday isn’t about exotic destinations or lavish accommodations – it’s about finding tranquillity and contentment within, regardless of external circumstances. My ideal holiday would involve reflection and a chance to disconnect and reconnect with myself shaped by experiences that push me out of my comfort zone and expand my perspective. I view challenges as opportunities for learning and selfdiscovery, making each moment of the journey valuable.
What is your favourite travel memory?
One of my favourite travel memories echoes the Stoic notion of finding beauty in simplicity. It was a quiet evening spent watching the sunset over the Mediterranean Sea, with nothing but the sound of gentle waves and the warmth of companionship. It reminded me of the importance of being fully present and appreciating life’s fleeting moments.
How do you try to travel as sustainably and responsibly as possible?
Stoicism encourages us to live in harmony with nature and to consider the greater good in our actions. When travelling, I strive to minimise my environmental impact by opting for ecofriendly accommodations, supporting local businesses and practising mindful consumption. It’s about leaving behind a positive footprint and respecting the communities and environments we encounter.
What is the most authentic, local travel experience you have had?
One of the most authentic travel experiences I’ve had was immersing myself in the daily rhythms of a small village in rural Japan. Living among the locals, participating in traditional ceremonies, and embracing their way of life offered insights into the simplicity and richness of human existence. This experience taught me to embrace discomfort and beauty in the simple things.
What is the most beautiful hotel you’ve ever stayed in?
The most beautiful hotel I’ve ever stayed in was a boutique eco-resort nestled in the rainforest of Costa Rica. Surrounded by lush vegetation and wildlife, the hotel seamlessly integrated sustainable practices with luxurious amenities. Its commitment to preserving the natural environment made it truly special, forming a sense of harmony with its natural surroundings.
An unforgettable dining experience you have had?
One unforgettable dining experience was savouring a traditional multicourse meal prepared by a local chef in a family-owned trattoria in Italy. Each dish was crafted with love and passed down through generations.
What are three luxury items you always pack on your travels?
Minimalism and simplicity are a must when I travel. Three luxury items I always pack include a high-quality travel journal for reflection and creativity, noisecancelling headphones for moments of
tranquillity amid the chaos, and a camera to capture moments of beauty and inspiration.
How can people integrate the principles of stoicism in their everyday lives?
Integrating the principles of stoicism into everyday life begins with cultivating self-awareness and practising mindfulness and resilience. It’s about embracing challenges with a mindset of resilience and nurturing virtues such as wisdom, courage, and compassion in our interactions with others. This can be achieved through simple things such as journaling and focusing on what is within our control while letting go of what is not.
What’s on your travel bucket list?
My bucket list includes immersing myself in the timeless beauty of the Greek islands, trekking through the rugged landscapes of Patagonia and exploring the ancient ruins of Machu Picchu. Each journey offers the chance to deepen my understanding of Stoic philosophy and cultivate a deeper sense of gratitude for the wonders of the world.
Ryan Holiday will be live in Sydney on 31 July 2024 and in Melbourne on 1 August 2024. ryanholiday.net
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CANADA page 82
TEXAS page 140
YOUR MAP TO WHERE THE STORIES IN THIS ISSUE COME FROM
LONDON page 120
NEW YORK CITY page 150
CARTAGENA page 108
SOUTH ICELAND page 74
ROTTERDAM page 102
PARIS page 54
JAPAN page 158
TUNISIA page 90
VIETNAM page 174
SOUTH AFRICA page 180
“Life is short and the world is wide.”
UNKNOWN
NORTHERN TERRITORY page 128
SYDNEY page 146
GOLD COAST page 166
Experience the bed of your dreams at your nearest Hästens store.
