India Perspectives January 2012

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INDIA VOL 25 NO. 10 JANUARY 2012

PERSPECTIVES

INSIDE NEW YEAR SPECIAL Land For All Seasons PARTNERSHIPS Lines of Credit VERBATIM Kiran Mazumdar-Shaw

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INDIA THIS MONTH

JANUARY-FEBRUARY

2012

January 15 Mumbai Marathon Attracting over 30,000 runners, it is one of India’s biggest fundraising events.

Where: Azad Maidan, Mumbai

January 26 Derby Bangalore This is the richest event on Bangalore’s racing calendar. It attracts the best three-year-old horses each year.

Where: Bangalore Turf Club

January 8-9 Bikaner Camel Festival A procession of bedecked camels is the main attraction. The animals race, dance, perform acrobatics and take part in a beauty contest.

Cultural programmes enliven the evenings.

Where: Near Junagarh Fort, Bikaner, Rajasthan

January 20-22 Modhera Dance Festival Dancers showcase the region’s classical dance forms against the background of the Sun Temple.

Where: Sun Temple, Modhera

January 9-11 International Kite Festival Kite-makers and enthusiasts from around India and the world participate in the festival, which extends to other towns and villages in Gujarat.

Where: Ahmedabad

January 25-29 India Art Fair The fourth edition will host about 100 galleries from 30 countries. On the sidelines are a speakers’ forum, a video lounge and art projects.

Where: NSIC Exhibition Grounds, New Delhi

January 16-19 Dehing Patkai Festival Named after the Dehing river and Patkai range in eastern Assam, it covers fairs, tea heritage tours, golfing, adventure sports and trips to Stilwell Road and World War II cemeteries.

Where: Lekhapani, Tinsukia, Assam

January 26 Float Festival Deities of Meenakshi Temple are placed on a raft decked with flowers and oil lamps and floated around the temple tank.

Where: Madurai, Tamil Nadu

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EDITORIAL NOTE

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alleys carpeted with blossoms. Surreal saltpans. Dense tropical rainforest.

Mighty mountains. Sun-kissed beaches. Miles and miles of desert. Gurgling streams. Roaring rivers. Unfathomable seas. Add to these a 5,000 year-old history. Rare flora and fauna. A compelling culture. A tradition of hospitality.

And you get India.

Given its size, the diversity in the country is unparalleled in the world. In the north, the sub-continent is shielded by some of world’s highest mountains. The southern shores are washed by three seas — the Arabian Sea, the Indian Ocean and the Bay of Bengal. In the Western Ghats lies one of the world’s biodiversity hotspots. In the east, the Sunderbans — the largest tidal mangrove forest in the world — has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage site. At its heart is the Deccan Plateau, which contains rock formations, some over a billion years old. On either side of the mainland are the archipelagos of Lakshadweep and the Andaman and Nicobar Islands, the unique ecosystems of which harbour a multitude of marine life.

The country is the only one in the world where both the tiger and the lion can be found. It is also home to the one-horned rhino, the Asian elephant, the gaur and the Indian wild dog, the dhole. The world’s rarest monkey, the golden langur lives here.

The national bird, the peacock, is one of the 42 species of birds endemic to the country. Many species of reptiles, amphibians and flora are also unique.

All the above are why our special New Year issue showcases India as a land for all reasons and all seasons. The country offers experiences for everyone — from the adventure seeker to the lotus-eater, from the culture vulture to the foodie and from the historian to the chronicler of the contemporary. January, June, July or December, there is a place in India to see and enjoy. Experience snowfall in Srinagar, sunbathe in Goa, catch raindrops in Kerala, pick your way through flowers in Uttarakhand and hum an autumn sonata in Chhattisgarh. These are among the 12 reasons why you should come to India in 2012. Once here you will find many more to come back again and again.

In the issue we cover Prime Minister Dr Manmohan Singh’s recent visit to Russia.

The PM termed the summit “successful” and added that the talks have helped in ‘steadily forging forward’ the India-Russia relationship. Also, our story on India’s Lines of Credit tells you how these soft loans are transforming the economic landscape of many countries and changing people’s lives across continents.

In the year ahead, we resolve to bring you issues that are more informative and entertaining. To achieve this we need your feedback. Please keep writing in.

Navdeep Suri

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INDIA

PERSPECTIVES January 2012 n VOL 25 No. 10/2012

JANUARY 2012 Editor: Navdeep Suri Assistant Editor: Abhay Kumar MEDIA TRANSASIA TEAM Editor-in-Chief: Maneesha Dube Creative Director: Bipin Kumar Desk: Urmila Marak Editorial Coordinator: Kanchan Rana Design: Ajay Kumar (Sr. Designer), Sujit Singh Production: Sunil Dubey (DGM), Ritesh Roy (Sr. Manager) Brijesh K. Juyal (Pre-Press Operator) Chairman: J.S. Uberoi President: Xavier Collaco AFP

Financial Controller: Puneet Nanda Send editorial contributions and letters to Media Transasia India Ltd.

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323, Udyog Vihar, Phase IV, Gurgaon 122016 Haryana, India E-mail: feedback.indiaperspectives@mtil.biz Telephone: 91-124-4759500

PLAN THE YEAR AHEAD January: Kashmir February: Sunderbans March: Mathura April: Himachal Pradesh May: Sikkim June: Chhattisgarh July: Kerala August: Valley of Flowers September: Gujarat October: Old Delhi November: Rajasthan December: Goa

08 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30

Global Perspectives: High on Deals Partnerships: Catalysts of Change Crafts: Timeless Creativity Book Extract: Keeping Cool with Clay

32 36 40 42

Reviews: Book: A Banner was Born Film: Jewel from the Northeast

44 45

Verbatim: Kiran Mazumdar-Shaw

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Fax: 91-124-4759550

India Perspectives is published every month in Arabic, Bahasa Indonesia, Bengali, English, French, German, Hindi, Italian, Pashto, Persian, Portuguese, Russian, Sinhala, Spanish, Tamil, Turkish, Urdu and Vietnamese. Views expressed in the articles are those of the contributors and not necessarily those of the Ministry of External Affairs.

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This edition is published for the Ministry of External Affairs by Navdeep Suri, Joint Secretary, Public Diplomacy Division, New Delhi, 140 ‘A’ Wing, Shastri Bhawan, New Delhi-110001.

Telephones: 91-11-23389471, 91-11-23388873, Fax: 91-11-23385549

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TWELVE FOR 2012

Text may be reproduced with an acknowledgement to India Perspectives For a copy of India Perspectives contact the nearest Indian diplomatic mission.

PHOTO: INDIA PICTURE

Website: http://www.indiandiplomacy.in

Our special New Year issue showcases India as a land for all seasons.

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COVER PHOTO: LOTUS, THE NATIONAL FLOWER OF INDIA COVER DESIGN: BIPIN KUMAR

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TWELVE FOR

2012 The year ahead holds out new hope and opens up new horizons that wait to be explored. Our special New Year issue showcases India as a land for all seasons: Winter, summer, spring, autumn or monsoon. January, June, July or December, there is a place in India to see and enjoy. Experience snowfall in Srinagar, sunbathe in Goa, let raindrops fall on your head in Kerala, pick your way through flowers in spring in Uttarakhand and hum a sonata on an autumn morning in Chhattisgarh.

These are among the 12 reasons why you should come to India. Once here you will find many more to come back again and again.

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January brings snow to Kashmir and tourists to the ski slopes of Gulmarg

January

TEXT: RAAJA BHASIN

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or picture-postcard snowscapes, few places in the world can rival Gulmarg and Srinagar. These are among the several tourist spots in India’s northern-most state of Kashmir.

Gulmarg An all-weather resort Gulmarg in the Pir Panjal mountains shines in winter. Labelled by CNN as one of Asia’s top 5 Ski resorts, it attracts skiers with its off-piste, deep-powder, long-run skiing, snowboarding and helisking. Head here for the world’s highest gondola ski lift the Gulmarg Gondola, 3,979 meters (about 13,000 feet) to the top of Apharwat mountain which boasts a dozen or so ridges. Perhaps its greatest attraction is that there are no man made runs, no trees have been cut or pistes gouged out of rock – it is all natural.

Srinagar Blanketed under a thick layer of snow, Srinagar is the proverbial winter wonderland. The fabled Dal Lake with its iconic shikaras (boats) has the tendency to freeze over but it is possible to rent centrally heated houseboats for your stay, a more picturesque option than hotels. Wood-fired stoves (called bukharis) and open fireplaces add to the magic of the winter retreat. The locals hunker down during the winter months devoting their time to handicrafts: carpets, carved furniture, shawls and the like so there’s plenty to look for. This is also the time to check out the local cuisine. n

NAVIGATOR

By Air: Srinagar links to Delhi and Jammu

By Rail: Jammu is the nearest railhead

By Road: Srinagar and other parts of J&K are connected to all parts of the country.

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(Above) Gulmarg in January; (right) tourists enjoy a shikara ride on the Dal Lake

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February is time to sight the tiger in the Sunderbans

February

T E X T : U T TA R A G A N G O PA D H YAY

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ighting the tiger in the Sunderbans is a thrilling experience.

The excitement builds up in Kolkata from where the journey begins. The Sunderbans, situated along the southern tip of West Bengal, is 4,262 sq km of watery wilderness, of which 2,585 sq km are part of the tiger reserve. The area is a UNESCO world heritage site, being a unique example of an estuarine mangrove ecosystem. When our boat reaches Sonakhali, we climb on to the upper deck and watch the island villages of Gosaba and Jhilla sail past. After a few hours, we reach Dayapur island village, the base for our forays into the forest.

The Royal Bengal Tiger is lord of the jungle. The 2011 tiger census puts the number of tigers in the region at 270. It is the only tiger that lives in a mangrove forest. There are several watch towers inside the forest which offer a panoramic view of the surrounding forest.

Waterholes have been dug in the areas to attract wild animals. It is possible to see spotted deer, monkeys, fishing cats, wild boars and crocodiles. There is also a turtle hatchery that takes care of the endangered Olive Ridley turtles.

One particularly interesting fish that is found here is the mudskipper, a gobioid that climbs out of the water into mudflats and even climbs trees. The mudflats and creeks harbour a lot of birds, among them are such rarities as the Masked Finfoot, Mangrove Pitta and the Mangrove Whistler. n

NAVIGATOR

(Above) Royal Bengal tigers; (left) a major source of earning in the Sunderbans is fishing

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Kolkata is the nearest airport and railhead.

There are several entry points to the Sunderbans, of which Canning and Sonakhali are the most accessible. From these points a boat is used to enter the forest zone.

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March is drenched in the hues of Holi, the festival of colours

March

TEXT: PREETI VERMA LAL

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PHOTO: INDIA PICTURE

ith the onset of spring Mathura and Vrindavan come alive. Here, Holi festivities begin much before the entire nation gets drenched in a riot of colours. On Holi, people douse each other with coloured water and throw coloured powder on friends, family and even unwary passersby.

Mathura According to mythology, this temple town is the birthplace of Lord Krishna. During Janmashtami, his birthday, devotees from all over the country gather here for the celebrations. The birthday festivities traditionally stretch over two days. The river Yamuna runs through Mathura, picturesque ghats (broad flights of steps leading down to the banks of a river) lace the city. Of the innumerable ghats, Vishram Ghat is the most famous. Sitting almost on the Yamuna is the Dwarikadheesh temple. Built in 1814, it is dedicated to Krishna, who became the lord of Dwarka after leaving Mathura.

Vrindavan Barely 14 km from Mathura, Vrindavan has over 5,000 temples. It is where Krishna spent his youth and played out many tales of divinity. Even the houses in this town look like temples. The 5,000year-old Nidhi Van, with lots and lots of wild tulsi trees, is a great tourist atraction. Not too far from the van is the 300-year-old Banke Bihari temple. There’s also the Shri Krishna-Balram temple, often described as one of the most beautiful temples in the town. n

NAVIGATOR

By Air: The nearest airport is New Delhi (140 km).

By Rail: Mathura is on the New Delhi-Agra railway line.

By Road: A cab or bus takes four hours from Delhi.

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(Above) Holi festivities in Mathura; (right) pilgrims take a holy dip at Vishram Ghat

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April is great for treks in the magical mountains of Himachal Pradesh

April

TEXT: SANKAR

ASHOO SHARMA

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ountains in April are magical. The snow has not melted, yet the air no longer has that bite about it. The place to best experience nature at this time of the year is Himachal Pradesh. You could walk through pine forests, stay in quaint villages or get a taste of mysticism in Lahaul and Spiti, which melt into the barren expanses of Ladakh.

Most routes have trekker’s huts and bungalows run by various government departments. We start with a trek from Manali to Rohtang Pass. It’s an easy walk that can be completed in two days.

Manali, in the Beas River Valley, is famous for the Hadimba temple and the hot springs in Vashisth.

There’s snow coming your way if you choose Chandratal. This is a slightly more arduous trek. The route to Rothang remains the same, but instead of thumbing down a vehicle and heading to the warmth of a hotel in Manali, you pack your tent and head out further, to Gramphoo and then to Chhatru, from where the real fun begins. You will encounter ice bridges, frozen waterfalls and glaciers tumbling down all the way to your feet.

Chota Dhara is the next stop, and the way to it is over boulders and rocks. After camping at Baltal, which is around 15,000 ft, Chandratal is only a day away. You hit Chandratal on day six.

Rohtang, where you will finally come across vehicles that will agree to take you to Manali, is four days away. n

NAVIGATOR

(Above) Bharmour town in Chamba; (left) trekkers in Manali

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Himachal Pradesh offers routes in the Dhauladhar and Pir Pranjal ranges, between the Shimla region and the Kullu Valley. The state has very good road connection to major cities of north.

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May is when rhododendrons and poppies colour the landscape of Sikkim

May

TEXT: RADHIKA VERMA & KUMAR MANGWANI

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ikkim has something for everyone: spectacular landscapes,

romantic getaways, Buddhist art and medieval architecture.

You can drive around, trek, climb mountains and feast on local cuisines along the way.

Yumthang The alpine meadows of Yumthang come alive in May. This is home to the Singba Rhododendrons Sanctuary, which has an abundance of exotic rhododendrons and poppies. The valley offers a spectacular view of the towering snow-capped Kanchenjunga. A visit to the valley is not complete without a stopover at the natural hot water springs, which are said to have curative powers. Tibetan prayer flags flutter with life all across the valley.

Pelling Pelling, in western Sikkim, has one of the richest traditions in Sikkim.

The legendary Pemayangtse monastery, believed to be the oldest in Sikkim, was built in 1705 by Lhatsun Chempo. Dantem, 20 km away, is famous for the alpine cheese factory and the Singshore Bridge, which is the second longest suspension bridge in Asia. The famous Rabdentse ruins are a must see. The monastic complex has been well-preserved by the Archaeological Survey of India.

Another place to visit is the Khachoedpalri lake, which is encircled by a thick forest. If you are lucky, during a short trek around the lake, you can spot a red panda basking on a tree. n

NAVIGATOR

By Air: The nearest airport is Bagdogra.

By Rail: The New Jalpaiguri station is connected with major Indian cities.

By Road: There are plenty of private taxis and jeeps to ferry you.

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(Above) The picturesque Yumthang valley; (right) Khachoedpalri lake in Pelling

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June sets the tone to explore the beauty of Chhattisgarh

June

TEXT: CHITRA RAMASWAMY

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hhattisgarh is vast and the places to see are aplenty. The rainy season is a good time to explore the beauty of the state. We begin our sojourn by travelling to Sarguja, covering Bango Dam, Kendai Waterfalls en route and then proceeding to Mainpat and Tattapani.

Within a few hundred yards of starting our drive, we realise that the region has it all — stunning scenery, rare wildlife, a clean environment, low population density, good motorable roads, hills, plateaus, jungle, wildlife, waterfalls, ancient sites and temples, palaces and diverse village and tribal communities. Our first stop is Bango Dam, about 40 km from Korba. Surrounded by hills, the environs are swathed in innumerable shades of green and blue.

Mainpat, our next stop, is at a height of around 1,160 m. The various Tibetan camps are the main attraction here.

Then we proceed to Tattapani, the hot springs, in the northernmost part of Sarguja district. We take a detour to Darima village to see the Thinthini Patthar. A large rock, shaped like a cylinder, when struck gives out a metallic sound. Tattapani is 80 km from Ambikapur, the starting point of our journey to the springs.

The water in the sulphur springs here is hot enough for one to cook a bagful of rice in it. We walk around this hamlet and see that there is hot water welling up almost everywhere. It is believed that the water here has curative powers. n

NAVIGATOR

(Above) Indravati river near Chitrakote waterfalls; (left) women sell bamboo baskets at a market in Bastar

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Raipur is well connected by rail and air to most Indian cities. Semi-luxury buses ply between Raipur and Jagdalpur. However, the best way to explore Chhattisgarh is to go in your own vehicle, stopping wherever you spot interesting sights.

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July is best for ayurveda treatments, when the monsoon clouds visit Kerala

July

T E X T : S A M Y U K TA N I N A N

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uring my travels through Kerala, the constant feature in all tourist destinations is the ‘Ayurveda experience’. Ayurveda is a combination of two Sanskrit words ayur or life and veda or science. It is a system of alternative medicine practised in India. There is an Ayurvedic centre to suit every budget. The monsoon is the best time to enjoy an ayurvedic massage.

I visit Kovalam, which is typical of the state’s ayurvedic destinations. The Ayurvedic centre has rows of Kerala-style red-brick cottages with views of the Arabian Sea. The therapies employ herbbased medicines. Milk and ghee (clarified butter) are other commonly used ingredients in ayurveda.

I walk into one of the open-air treatment rooms with a panoramic view of the ocean. Suresh, my therapist, heats a bowl of herbal oil on a stove and pours it all over my body as I lay face down on a wooden table. I can see grey monsoon clouds clinging to the Arabian Sea at a distance and palm trees swaying near the beach. The open-air treatment rooms are the ideal venue during the rainy season. As a cool, moisture-laden breeze sweeps through the window, Suresh goes about his job with casual precision. The massage lasts for an hour and a half and I doze off during it.

Kerala is the first place to receive the monsoon rains on the Indian mainland. It was still raining when I was escorted to my car.

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NAVIGATOR Thiruvananthapuram is the nearest airport and railhead. By road, you can take a bus or hire a cab for Kovalam, which is 16 km from Thiruvananthapuram.

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(Above) Fort Kochi beach; (right) a spa in Kumarakom

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August carpets the Valley of Flowers with a multitude of blossoms

August

T E X T : D E E PA N K A R A R O N

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he Valley of Flowers is a marvel of nature. Once the snow melts in the valley, from May onwards, various plant species start flowering. This flowering continues till September. The Valley covers an area of 87.5 sq km over an altitude varying from 3,200 to 6,600 m with its main area of about 10 sq km running in the east-west direction along the river Pushpawati.

The trek to the Valley starts from Govindghat. The 13-km trek to Ghangaria moves along the river Bhyndar. The trek till Bhyndar, 10 km away, is rather comfortable. From Bhyndar it is a steep climb to Ghangaria. The landscape near the Bhyndar village is painted with mountains, waterfalls and forests. Pink and white roses greet us on this stretch.

As we approach Ghangaria, we see beds of flowering asters and sencios. After a trek of about five hours we are there. The next day, we begin our onward trek by crossing the bridge on river Pushpawati, near Pairra. The route is covered by red and yellow potentillas, purple and white asters and yellow lagularias. We hit a place in the central valley called, Baumin Dhaur. New vistas open up at this point, with the Rataban Peak clearly visible. Baumin Dhaur is carpeted in pink by impatiens sulcata, popularly called balsam.

The Valley doesn’t have any physical limits, so you can keep going and exit via the distant glaciers. But it is advisable to return around 2 pm, given the weather at such high altitudes. n

NAVIGATOR

The Valley of Flowers in full bloom

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Nearest airport is Jolly Grant, 24 km from Dehradun.

Both Dehradun and Haridwar are well connected by rail. Rishikesh is an hour’s drive from both these stations. The trek to the Valley of Flowers starts from Govindghat, 260 km from Rishikesh.

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September in Gujarat is ideal for the archaeological trail

September

TEXT: ANIL M U LCHANDANI

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ujarat is a rewarding destination for travellers interested in architecture and archaeology. Positioned on the west coast of India, the state had international trade links dating back to 2,400 BC to 1,600 BC. Patan and Modhera The old-walled town of Anhilawada Patan is the capital of the Solanki Rajputs. Driving along the fort walls, you will come across Rani ki Vav, one of Gujarat’s greatest stepwells. Built in the 11th century, the well has a seven-storey stairway running from the top to the water level with covered platforms. Modhera is famous for the Sun Temple. The sanctum of the temple was designed in such a way that the jewelled idol would receive the rays of the sun. The exterior walls of the temple have splendid carvings of deities and mythical beings.

Lothal-Palitana Lothal is one of the best Harappan sites in India. The museum at Lothal is rather nondescript, but the exhibits provide a keen insight into the life of the Harappans. Palitana was once the capital of a princely state. It has many impressive late-19th and early-20th century buildings, but is predominantly a modern market town.

Champaner Champaner has been declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO because of a variety of monuments located in the area, from the 11th to 15th century temples on Pavagadh hill to the 16th century mosques at its foot. n

NAVIGATOR

By Air: There are 10 domestic airports in Gujarat and an international airport in Ahmedabad.

By Rail: There are regular trains from all major cities.

By Road: There are inter-state buses, which connect various cities of Gujarat with other states.

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(Above) Somnath Temple, Saurashtra; (right) ruins of an ancient mosque, Champaner

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October is perfect for exploring the bazaars and lanes of Old Delhi

October

T E X T : R A C H A N A R A N A B H AT TA C H A R YA

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hahjahanabad, the capital of Mughal emperor Shahjahan, is known as Purani or Old Delhi. At its eastern end lies the Lal Qila or Red Fort. Close to the Red Fort is Chandni Chowk with its bazaars and labyrinth of tiny lanes lined with the remnants of 17th century havelis. The city walls have crumbled and only five of the fourteen old gates still stand, yet this stretch of road throbs with activity 24x7. Shopping here is a real delight, it is the mecca of the bargain hunter. It is also a foodie’s paradise, with eateries, some dating back hundreds of years, at every nook and corner.

Jama Masjid Jama Masjid is the largest mosque in India and stands across the road from Red Fort. On any given day, the maze of narrow lanes around Jama Masjid heave with crowds. During Ramzan, hundreds of stalls and shops pop up overnight. Along with the gastronomic delights on offer, it is quite an experience to snake ones way through the festive crowds and gaily-lit lanes chock-a-block with food, clothes and mementos.

Red Fort The Lal Qila or Red Fort, Delhi’s most magnificent monument, was built by the Mughal Emperor Shahjahan in 1638 CE. Every year on India’s Independence Day, August 15, the prime minister addresses the nation from the ramparts. A light and sound in the evenings brings into focus Mughal history. n

NAVIGATOR

(Above) An aerial view of Old Delhi from Jama Masjid; (left) a parantha shop in Chandni Chowk

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By Air: The Indira Gandhi International Airport is 35 minutes drive from the city centre.

By Rail: Has three major railway stations at New Delhi, Old Delhi, and Nizamuddin.

By Road: It is well connected to all the major Indian cities.

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November brings out the grandeur of Rajasthan’s forts and palaces

November

T E X T : G U S TA S P & J E R O O I R A N I

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isiting Rajasthan is like stepping into history’s treasure trove.

The capital, Jaipur, is the best place to begin a journey to one of the most colourful states of the country.

Amber Fort, Jaipur Entry to the fort is through massive arched gates. The Diwan-eAam, or hall of public audience, is magnificent and a must-see. The Sheesh Mahal or hall of mirrors is another attraction.

Mehrangarh Fort, Jodhpur Mehrangarh Fort, atop a 400-ft cliff, has carved balconies, a gilded courtroom, ornate and bejewelled palace rooms, barracks and an armoury. The museum houses ornate shields, writing sets crusted with precious stones, dumb bells used by the queens to remain svelte and shoes smothered in diamonds.

City Palace Complex, Udaipur The City Palace Museum is imposing. Built in1559 on the banks of Lake Pichola, the palace complex has four palaces, each with its own distinctive style. Udaipur also has the 18th-century Lake Palace, now a popular hotel and Jag Mandir, which inspired Shahjahan to build the Taj Mahal.

Other forts Kumbhalgarh, surrounded by a massive 36-km-long rampart, and Nawalgarh, Mandawa, Dundlod and Fathepur in Shekhawati are worth a visit. n

NAVIGATOR Jaipur: The city is well connected by road, rail and air to the rest of the country.

Udaipur: The airport is 24 km from the city centre. Jodhpur: The city is well connected by rail, road and air.

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(Above) Mehrangarh Fort, Jodhpur; (right) Hawa Mahal, Jaipur

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COVER STORY

n

L A ND FO R A L L S E A S O NS

December rings in Christmas and all roads lead to Goa

December

TEXT: ANSHUMAN SEN

I

f there is one place in India where you have to be on Christmas, it has to be Goa. The festivities begin weeks in advance and the entire state is abuzz with activity. This is also the time to explore the rich Portuguese heritage of the area.

Old Goa is a medieval city with impressive architecture and a booming trading community. The Basilica de Bom Jesus, built in 1594, is Goa’s most important religious monument. I walked past the richly carved basalt façade of the basilica to the spot that houses the relics of St Francis Xavier. Frequented by Christians and Hindus in equal numbers, the basilica offers a quiet spiritual experience.

The dilapidated tower of St Augustine church is still Old Goa’s tallest landmark and can be seen from most places in town. This church was among Goa’s largest and was built in 1602.

My next heritage pit stop was the central Goan town of Verna.

Most of the old houses here belong to the well-to-do ‘Brahmin’ Christian families, many of whom still speak Portuguese and are equally proud of their mixed Portuguese and Brahmin heritage. Just south of Verna is the large market town of Margao that has its own share of heritage buildings. But of all the heritage sites in Goa, my favourite is still the Fontainhas quarter in Panjim. Fontainhas is full of narrow lanes and multicoloured houses. The old houses facing the Ourem Creek now house Panjim’s antique stores. n

NAVIGATOR

(Above) Tourists at a beach in Goa; (left) Basilica de Bom Jesus

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By Air: The Dabolim Airport is 30 km from Panaji.

By Road: National Highway 17 connects Goa with the neighbouring states.

By Rail: The Konkan Railway connects Goa with Delhi, Mumbai, Thiruvananthapuram and Vadodara.

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GLOBAL PERSPECTIVES

AFP

T

High on Deals The Annual India-Russia summit enhanced the already healthy friendship that the two nations enjoy TEXT: N.C. BIPINDRA

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Prime Minister Manmohan Singh with Russian President Dmitry Medvedev at the 12th Annual India-Russia Summit in Moscow

he robust ‘special and privileged strategic partnership’ between India and Russia got a boost at the recently concluded 12th Annual Summit Meeting in Moscow. During the three-day meet from December 15 to 17, 2010, Prime Minister Manmohan Singh met Russian President Dmitry Medvedev.

The Indian PM termed the talks, ‘successful’ and said that they will help in ‘steadily forging forward’ their partnership.

A bilateral meeting with his Russian counterpart Vladimir Putin not only strengthened the already strong cooperation in the field of defence, space and nuclear energy, but also laid the road map for expanding the economic relations in trade and investments.

The trip to Russia achieved a lot in terms of takeaways for both the nations. The joint statement adopted by the two leaders at their bilateral meeting is a comprehensive 16-page document that enumerates the partnerships and thoughts on a majority of issues.

The five agreements signed by both the nations might be low in terms of quantity, but were good in terms of quality when compared to the 29 deals signed during the 11th summit when Medvedev was in New Delhi in 2010.

The key deal was for licenced production of 42 Russian-designed Sukhoi combat planes for the Indian Air Force at the Hindustan Aeronautics Limited production facility in Bengaluru. These are in addition to the 232 planes that the Indian public sector undertaking had been licenced to build.

Deals for enhancing cooperation between the anti-monopoly agencies of the two countries were also signed. The Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) covers experience sharing in the field of competition policy and in conducting investigations; evolving joint consultative processes; and exchanges of information regarding laws and legislations.

Another protocol that has been signed aims to facilitate development and application of technologies for utilisation and safe management of fly ash, an environment pollutant residue from the thermal power plants in the Siberian Federal District. It includes import

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PHOTOS: AFP

(Clockwise from above) Commander-in-Chief of Russian Navy Admiral Vladimir Vysotsky with Indian Chief of Naval Staff Admiral Nirmal Verma (right) in New Delhi; Russian aircraft carrier Admiral Gorshkov; a model of the Sukhoi 30-MKI on display at the Yelahanka Air Force Station, Bengaluru; and External Affairs Minister S.M. Krishna (left) and his Russian counterpart Sergey Lavrov in Moscow

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of technologies from India and also envisages experience sharing, investment projects and mutual exchange of scientific personnel.

Among the MoUs that were signed, is one to oversee the safety and quality issues between the two agencies for drug quality and safety standards from both countries to provide an enabling environment for enhancing trade in quality pharmaceuticals.

The fifth agreement was an educational exchange programme to promote cooperation for capacity building. Medvedev also announced that Russia will offer India the joint production of its civilian aircraft from its civil planes industry, including Sukhoi and Irkut.

Singh and Medvedev said that the future of their strategic partnership will be in the field of economics. The two sides declared their intent to increase their bilateral trade volume to USD 20 billion in the next four years from the existing USD 9 billion.

India welcomed Russia’s membership in the World Trade Organisation and said it would be a ‘considerable positive enabler’ for trade and investments.

The two nations agreed to set up a joint study group that will go into the possibilities of a trade link between India and the three-nation Belarus-Kazakhstan-Russia Custom Union.

Russia once again reiterated its support to India’s permanent membership in a reformed United Nations Security Council, to join the high table with the super five — the US, Russia, UK, France and China.

Medvedev promised support to India’s membership bids into the 45nation Nuclear Suppliers Group and the six-nation Shanghai Cooperation Organisation.

There were discussions on joint defence projects such as the 45,000-tonne Kiev class aircraft carrier from the Russian Navy, which is under a refit in the Sevmash shipyard in Russia and is expected to join the Indian Navy by December 2012. INS Vikramaditya, the joint development of fifth generation fighter aircraft and the multirole transport aircraft are all ‘on schedule’.

The Indian PM’s visit enhanced the deep understanding between the two nations and acted as a positive end to the diplomatically active year that India has had. n

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PARTNERSHIPS Senegal has transformed from a food-deficit country to a potential food-exporter; (below left to right) Minister of External Affairs S.M. Krishna addressing the conference on Indian Lines of Credit in New Delhi; delegates at the conference

Catalysts of

Change The Lines of Credit have acted as multi-pronged instruments of India’s economic diplomacy TEXT: MANISH CHAND

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AFP

AFP

B

oosting rice irrigation in Senegal, financing water pumps for Jamaica, construction of power transmission lines in Cambodia and building railway infrastructure in Bangladesh, India’s soft loans have been transforming the economic landscape of many countries and changing people’s lives across continents. Lines of Credit (LOC), as these soft loans are called, carry concessional interest rates with repayment period stretching up to 20 years and a moratorium of five years. They are serving as catalysts of economic uplift and change in recipient countries.

New Delhi opens its purse every month to fund varied development projects through concessional finance in developing countries in Asia, Africa and Latin America. The last two years have seen an increase in the number and quantum of LOCs. In 2010, India’s economic diplomacy acquired a new ballast as Prime Minister Manmohan Singh announced a USD 1 billion for railway and connectivity projects in Bangladesh. The same year, New Delhi pitched in to assist Sri Lanka that is in the throes of reconstruction after the war ended with the LTTE. The Indian government pledged USD 800 million as an LOC for track laying and supply of rolling stock for the northern railway line during Sri Lanka President Mahinda Rajapaksa’s visit last year. Included in this is, USD 150 million for the restoration of the Pallai-Kankesanthurai railway line in the Northern Province that will connect, for the first time in decades, the former war-torn north of Sri Lanka with the country’s south. An LOC of USD 167.4 million for repair and upgradation of the tsunami-damaged Colombo-Matara rail link is operational.

Last year has set new benchmarks. In May at the second India-Africa Forum Summit, India unveiled USD 5 billion in LOCs for development projects across Africa and another USD 700 million to set up training institutes across the continent. This was in addition to USD 2.4 billion disbursed after the announcement of USD 5.4 billion at the first India-Africa Forum summit in New Delhi in 2008, leaving USD 5 billion for the next three years till 2014. This October,

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The EXIM Bank, which disburses LOCs, is at the heart of this unique Indian model of developmental cooperation that blends concessional finance with expertise

AFP

India’s soft loans have helped build railway infrastructure in Bangladesh and Sri Lanka (below right); and (left) provided LOCs for countries in Africa which see India’s expertise and IT prowess in a new light

India unveiled USD 500 million for Myanmar which is navigating its transition to democracy and a more inclusive development. The soft loan will be used for projects, including irrigation and agriculture. This was in addition to the USD 250 million India had provided earlier for various infrastructure projects such as railways, roadways and transport, power transmission lines and an oil refinery. ‘‘As on June 30, there were 121 operational LOCs to 54 countries in Africa, Asia and Latin America, CIS and ASEAN. These are effectively worth USD 6.43 billion,” External Affairs Minister S.M. Krishna told trade officials. ‘‘These LOCs have also helped in showcasing Indian technology and opening up new markets overseas,’’ he said. The LOCs have financed projects in agriculture, urban transport, power transmission, development of small scale industries, IT and education.

Besides LOCs to individual countries, India has provided soft loans to overseas financial institutions, regional development banks. In 2004, India provided USD 500 million to TEAM-9 (Techno-Economic Approach for Africa-India Movement), an initiative that brought together India and eight resource-rich West and Central African countries situated in the oil-rich Gulf of Guinea. To boost its presence in the region, India provided USD 250 million LOC to the Economic Community Of West African States (ECOWAS) Bank for Investment and Development in 2006 and another USD 250 million LOC in 2010.

Some important TEAM 9 projects aided by LoCs include agricultural projects and rural electrification in Burkina Faso; Mahatma Gandhi IT and Biotechnology Park and a project for renewal of urban transport system in Abidjan in Cote D’Ivoire; setting up of a cotton yarn plant in Chad; a tractor assembly plant in Gambia; and the construction of the presidential palace in Ghana.

The EXIM (Export-Import) Bank, which disburses LOCs, is at the heart of this unique Indian model of developmental cooperation. In Cambodia, several projects in areas of electric transmission lines (USD 30 million), irrigation (USD 30 million) and installation of water pumps (USD 5.2 million) are being implemented with the aid of LOCs. Last year, India signed an USD 72.55 million LOC agreement with Laos for hydropower projects. In 2006, India extended an LOC worth USD 7.5 million to Jamaica for financing import of water pumps from India.

All projects are demand-driven and as per the priorities of the recipient countries. Approvals for projects are given by the finance ministry after consultations with the MEA. ‘‘As we take our cooperation forward, it is of paramount importance that we follow transparent and fair selection procedures based on competitive bidding for award of contracts and their execution,’’ said Krishna. If implemented in letter and spirit, it would ensure an efficient and productive use of LOCs, and help India win friends and diplomatic capital around the world, sealing its reputation as an emerging power with a difference. n —Manish Chand is a senior editor at IANS

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CRAFTS

Timeless Creativity The simplicity of the articles made with clay, wood and metal is striking

Artefacts made by the tribals of Chhattisgarh

TEXT: PREETI VERMA LAL

T

he tribal communities of Chhattisgarh have always had a symbiotic relationship with nature – not only do they find their gods in nature, they also find their livelihood amidst nature’s bounty. Living in an inaccessible land, the tribals learnt to create everyday-use artefacts with local materials. Shilpgram, 15 km from Jagdalpur, is a government initiative to preserve and promote the arts and crafts of the region. Saathi, set up to revive the dying crafts of Bastar, now works with 1,400 artisans in 114 villages. The best place to shop for handicrafts is Shabari, a government-run emporium located in major towns of Chhattisgarh and in New Delhi.

Artefacts bearing a striking resemblance to dhokra (non–ferrous metal) were found in the Mohenjodaro and Harappan civilisations. Originally, bell metal was used to cast utensils, but now the traditional sacred kalash (pot) has made way for numerous motifs, designs and figures. Tribals use the ancient technique of cire perdue (lost-wax technique) to make the objets d’art. This entails coiling a thin thread of wax around a core of clay till the desired shape is attained. It is then padded with clay from a termite hill and thrown into fire.

A small vent allows the wax to melt away. Into the same vent is poured molten metal, on cooling the mould is broken to reveal the finished product.

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The soil of the Indravati river lends its sheen to the famous terracotta handicrafts of the state. With simple tools like the potter’s wheel and a wooden spatula, potters create pots, pitchers and handis (cooking vessel) for everyday use, which have a dark sienna tone which comes from the layer of deep river soil applied on the baked pot, and elephants, serpents, birds and horses. They also make images of Dulhadeo, the main tribal deity of the state, and Mai, the Goddess.

With 40 per cent of the state under forest cover, it is no surprise that Chhattisgarh has a rich tradition of wood carving.

Tobacco containers, combs, musical instruments, menhirs and the colossal Bastar Dussehera rath (chariot) are some examples of the craft. The men and women of the Muria tribe use carved wooden combs as hair adornments; the men sport combs carved with horses, spears and warriors. For women, the combs are not mere trinkets; they also reveal how many suitors they have. In a ghotul (a tribal hut), men carve intricate designs on combs and gift it to the girl of their choice.

Iron craft is the exclusive preserve of the Bastar district. The basic raw material is recycled scrap iron. Interestingly, artefacts are created by beating hot iron into the desired shape. Varnish is used as a veneer. Of late, craftsmen have taken to painting or etching on tumbas, a hollowed out dry gourd.

—Preeti Verma Lal is a freelance journalist

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BOOK EXTRACT

M

Keeping cool

with clay Mansukhbhai Prajapati’s clay refrigerator can preserve fruits and vegetables for about five days and milk up to three days

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ansukhbhai Prajapati, a school dropout, is a grassroots innovator, who had pursued his dream project without a business plan. His prime product is a refrigerator made of clay, sold under the name of Mitticool (mud cool).

The clay fridge made by Mansukhbhai, who is from Nichimandal village in Rajkot, Gujarat, costs about ` 2,000. It works without electricity and can preserve fruits and vegetables for about five days and milk up to three days. The cooling is done through evaporation. The clay is baked at high temperatures and hence the fridge does not need any special care. Mansukhbhai continues to make further improvements, though these make it a little expensive. With the help of National Innovation Foundation and the National Institute of Design, he has come up with a model with two tiny fans that run on solar power. Over 1,000 refrigerators have been sold.

Mansukhbhai says he gets more orders from the urban areas than from villages. His creation was primarily meant for people living in villages with zero or limited access to electricity.

This innovator has no marketing back up, but his customers find him through newspapers, magazines and websites that feature him regularly. His products have reached London, Africa, Singapore and America. His organisation, Mitticool Clay Creation, has sold nearly 1,00,000 products till date, fetching revenues of around ` 3 million. After the January 2001 earthquake in Gujarat, a photo feature showing a shattered pot with the caption: “The broken fridge of the poor” published in a newspaper, ignited Mansukhbhai’s idea of making an affordable rural refrigerator. He worked on a prototype for three years. While he was clear about using evaporation for cooling, it took some time and effort to perfect the model. The final product was accepted by the customers who have not come back to him with any complaints. Mansukhbhai also has a water filter, a pressure cooker and a non-stick tawa — all made of clay — to his credit.

Mansukhbhai is not resting on his laurels. His dream is to make ‘Mittihouse’, (mud house) that provides protection from extreme temperatures and needs no electricity. n

(Facing page) A potter at the workshop; (above) Mansukbhai’s clay pressure cooker and refrigerator (below)

the

INDIA idea

Heralding the Era of Path-breaking Innovations

Extracted from:

THE INDIA IDEA Edited by: L.K. Sharma Photo Research and Edited by: Shobit Arya Publisher: Wisdom Tree Price: ` 2,450 Pages: 159

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REVIEWS

FILM

BOOK

A Banner was Born

Jewel from the Northeast

A tribute to a group of people who dared to be different

A look at Neil’s unstructured but happy little home school

SHILLONG CHAMBER CHOIR AND THE LITTLE HOME SCHOOL

THE NAVKETAN STORY: CINEMA MODERN

Genre: Documentary Director: Urmi Juvekar Producer: Public Diplomacy Division, Ministry of External Affairs

by Siddharth Bhatia Published by: HarperCollins India Pages: 180 Price: ` 1,999

W

hat was intended to be an insight into a banner in post-Independence Hindi cinema has turned out to be an adulatory exercise.

There is no denying the banner’s contribution and what gave it its class identity, the hero projecting the pains, pangs and frustrations of urban youth.

But, unfortunately, that had been so until Dev Anand, its founding-star, became a prisoner of his own image.

The author’s job becomes all the more complicated since he tries to examine growth and evolution of a cinema that became synonymous with the star himself. This was an aspect of Dev Anand that was contrary to his public persona.

Siddharth Bhatia in his book The Navketan Story: Cinema Modern shows this facet of Anand by firing a gun from others shoulders, Amit Khanna, for instance, who at one time was as close to Anand: ‘‘Dev Anand’s

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determination to do everything himself, including scripting and direction hampers him.’’ Unfortunately, Siddharth’s research was impeded since most of the star’s other close associates are no longer alive. But he is on target by giving due credit to others who not only contributed to Navketan films’ distinct identity, but helped the star to carve out a different image for himself. So the book is ‘‘a salute to those who gave us hours of great entertainment but with a vision and a modern outlook. It is a tribute to an unusual group of people who dared to be different, going down the paths which film makers even today may be too timid to follow.’’

Beautifully printed and profusely illustrated with rare colour and black and white pictures the book now becomes a fitting tribute to Dev Anand. Unfortunately, he did not live to see it.

—Suresh Kohli

I

t is a story about Neil Nongkynrih, a pianist from

Shillong, who went to London to study music, fell ill and returned to India. His passion for music led him to start the Shillong Chamber Choir. ‘‘Stressed out,’’ as he says, after staying abroad for 13 years, he ended up in his hometown, giving underprivileged children a voice – literally. Director Urmi Juvekar’s documentary shows us Neil’s little unstructured but happy little home school. The relaxed and comfortable atmosphere he creates (‘‘just a play square where children can blossom’’) is heaven for the children who gradually join as boarders. Set against the backdrop of the green and sylvan state, Meghalaya, Juvekar’s film is an ode to this talented yet modest man and his work. Through images of children at play or work (mainly singing), eating, and dancing to Hindi film songs, through chats with Neil, she creates a life of happiness and harmony.

Her images are sharp and well-framed, her lighting subtle; and she uses a blend of background and sung music which is not necessarily religious as the word ‘choir’ may suggest. There are hymns, including Khasi psalms, but also opera, pieces from Mozart and Handel. ‘‘The Khasi voice,’’ says Neil, ‘‘has angst, a certain sorrow and an emotional appeal. Most of our folktales are tragic.’’ When trained professionally, these voices come out beautifully modulated and perfectly pitched. Neil’s 16-member choir first performed in Shillong, and later in London, Poland, Sri Lanka, Milan, Switzerland, Bangalore, Mumbai and Guwahati. Yet the pianist is averse to marketing. ‘‘I’ve had 12,000 people at a show but I never enjoyed it.’’ For him, money is not an issue. Juvekar shows us how one man’s vision and generosity have set a few tender hearts aflame.

Youtube link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9d3-0UDOeGE —Latika Padgaonkar

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VERBATIM

“India is doing well in biotechnology... the future looks vibrant”

Tell us about Biocon’s journey, from a garage to the conglomerate it is today.

It’s been a challenging, but fulfilling journey and I look back with great pride and satisfaction. When I started Biocon, I dared to be different. Biotechnology then was an unheardof industry but I was fascinated by it. Being a woman entrepreneur in the late 1970s was another hurdle that I had to overcome. In 1998, I decided to leverage the enzyme technology platform to develop biopharmaceuticals like statin, insulin and immunosuppressants. This was a game-changing decision that made Biocon what it is today.

makers have started giving a greater thrust to R&D, R&D spends have increased over 10 times in the last decade.

India is making great headway in vaccine and biosimilar research and development.

Where does India stand in the field of biotechnology?

The future looks vibrant. The revenues from biotechnology have leaped by over 22 per cent in 2010 to reach USD 4 billion. Today, India is ranked among the top 12 biotech destinations worldwide. Also, India is the fourth-largest global producer of drugs, by volume. Global pharmaceutical companies are looking towards India for lower-cost R&D and manufacturing facilities.

What attracted you to biotechnology?

As a brewer, I was enthralled by biotechnology and its limitless possibilities. A chance meeting with an Irish gentleman led to the birth of Biocon in 1978.

What support do you expect from the Government to boost biotechnology?

The Government of India has been a strong supporter of the industry. Through funding initiatives such as the Biotechnology Industry Partnership Programme and the Small Business Innovation Research Initiative it has built a springboard for the sector. In 2009-10, over USD 700 million was spent on life sciences agencies. The government can further support the industry by providing financial assistance to R&D activities through additional tax breaks.

How do India’s R&D facilities compare to the world?

India is on the right track. Pioneering research work is being done in hi-end laboratories across the country. Indian drug

What do you do to unwind?

I have a passion for collecting paintings. I believe an object of art uplifts any environment. n

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PHOTOS: AFP

S

he is one of the rare women in her field. Her pioneering work has earned her some of the highest civilian honours conferred by the Government of India: the Padma Shri and Padma Bhushan. Recently named TIME magazine’s 100 most influential people in the world, Kiran MazumdarShaw, chairman and managing director of Biocon Limited, shares her thoughts with Bindu Gopal Rao. Excerpts.

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