Indonesia Expat - issue 120 by Indonesia Expat

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Formerly JAK ARTA EXPAT and BALI EXPAT

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18 JUNE – 1 JULY 2 014

JA K A R TA • JAVA • B A L I • LOMBOK • K A L IM A N TA N • SUM AT R A • SUL AW E SI • W E S T PA P UA

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INDONESIA AND AUSTRALIA: HIGHLIGHTS AND LOWLIGHTS

TRAVEL TO MOKE LAND, FLORES LITERATURE REVIEW: INDONESIA ETC. BY ELIZABETH PISANI

MEN & MOTORS AT THE MANSHED IN BALI FRESH JAPANESE FOOD IN THE CAPITAL

GOLD MINING IN INDONESIA

ONEWAVE

issue 120 indonesia expat

indonesia expat issue 120

issue 120 indonesia expat

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

Indonesia's Largest Expatriate Readership

Similarities in Differences

Editor in Chief Angela Richardson angela@indonesiaexpat.biz

Editorial Assistant Gabriella Panjaitan gaby@indonesiaexpat.biz

Management Edo Frese edo@indonesiaexpat.biz

Sales & Distribution Dian Mardianingsih Betty de Haan ads@indonesiaexpat.biz

Graphics Frederick Ng fred@indonesiaexpat.biz

Finance & Admin Lini Verawaty

Contributors Victoria Bannerman Polly Christensen Terry Collins Bill Dalton Stefan Danerek Hush Petersen Hans Rooseboom Eamonn Sadler Paul V. Walters Joe Writeson Kenneth Yeung

Editorial Enquiries letters@indonesiaexpat.biz

Circulation Enquiries info@indonesiaexpat.biz

WHILE WATCHING the presidential candidate debate recently, a question came up about the old Javanese phrase, which this country’s founding fathers used to define their new country of Indonesia: Bhinneka Tunggal Ika. These words, which are inscribed in the country’s national symbol, Garuda Pancasila, mean “Unity in Diversity”. The phrase comes from an old Javanese poem Kakawin Sutasomo, originally written in the Majapahit Empire in the 14th century by Mpu Tantular. This poem spoke of tolerance between Hindus and Buddhists at the time, and much can still be learned from these simple yet poignant words. During the debate, the moderator asked both running teams how they would ensure that Bhinneka Tunggal Ika would remain an integral part of their work as president and vice president of Indonesia. A reply from running vice presidential candidate

paired with Joko Widodo, Jusuf Kalla, resonated in my mind. He said, “Bangsa yang berbeda-beda [Indonesia] harus bersatu…” (Our nation of differences must unite.) He went on to say that regardless of race or religion, we have to take pride in Indonesia’s diversity because that is what makes this country what it is. And he’s right. In what other country are there over 700 different local dialects spoken over more than 18,000 islands? Indonesia’s diversity, and not just its human diversity, as we mustn’t forget its remarkable flora and fauna as well, make this country so incredibly rich in culture, heritage, history and natural beauty, above and below ground. A documentary about the Coral Triangle, along with a trip to visit this amazing part of the country myself, drove home the fact that Raja Ampat in West Papua is the world’s richest

underwater paradise in the world, with more life in one metre square here than anywhere else on planet earth! Now that’s something. It’s easy to judge others by what differences they have to us, but why choose the easy way? If

Indonesia is to continue living in harmony with diversity, and grow stronger together with its differences, we should start to look for the similarities in each other first. This should be applied to our fellow Indonesian friends, our expatriate friends, our visiting tourist friends, our local inhabitants of the jungle friends, and of course, our underwater critter friends. Let’s look after each other now so that the founding fathers of this nation would be proud that no matter what differences we have, we stayed true to the words that built this nation and ensured its prosperity and rich beauty continue to reign for the world to see. Thank you for listening.

Angela Richardson Editor in Chief

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LETTER TO THE EDITOR

Published by PT. Koleksi Klasik Indonesia Jl. Kemang Raya No. 29A Kemang, Jakarta,Indonesia Phone: 021 7179 4550 Fax: 021 7179 4546 Office hours: 09.00 – 17.00 Monday – Friday INDONESIA EXPAT IS PUBLISHED BI-WEEKLY BY PT. KOLEKSI KLASIK INDONESIA. OPINIONS EXPRESSED IN THIS PUBLICATION ARE THOSE OF THE WRITERS AND THE PUBLISHER DOES NOT ACCEPT ANY RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY ERRORS, OMMISIONS, OR COMPLAINTS ARISING THERE FROM. NO PARTS OF THIS PUBLICATION CAN BE REPRODUCED IN WHOLE OR IN PART, IN PRINT OR ELECTRONICALLY WITHOUT PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHER. ALL TRADEMARKS, LOGOS, BRANDS AND DESIGNS ARE COPYRIGHT AND FULLY RESERVED BY PT. KOLEKSI KLASIK INDONESIA.

The Cover Onewave's Fluro Friday at Canggu Beach Pictured by Nick Gelardi

indonesia expat issue 120

Dear Laura,

Dear editors, I read with great interest the article about ‘We love Bali safe’ and wanted to share my story. About two months ago I was riding home on my motorbike alone when a motorbike with two men on it came out of nowhere and tried to swipe my handbag from off me. Luckily I was able to swerve out the way and, due to some oncoming traffic on the other side, the perpetrators decided to continue rather than try again. It’s so dangerous what is happening and I have since stopped travelling on a motorbike alone at night and never carry my handbag over my shoulder any more. I keep it now under my legs, out of sight.

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Safety is of utmost importance and we hope that readers will take your words to heart and practice better safety measures, as you have done. Please continue to spread the good word to everyone you meet to ensure this kind of crime goes away for good.

Thanks again for sharing this important story and hopefully this initiative will help to make a change here in Bali soon.

Stay safe!

Laura Canggu, Bali

Connect with Us Subscribe to our e-newsletter!

Thank you for writing and for your feedback on the ‘We love Bali safe’ article.

Many of my friends have had a similar experience, some not ending up as lucky as I. To all readers, please remember to be safe rather than sorry and just don’t bother travelling at night alone on a motorbike. Take a safe taxi instead!

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Issue 120

Contents

Featured The Kangaroo and the Komodo

Gold Rush There's Gold in them thar Hills

Meet the Jakarta Expat Jan Ouderman

Men and Motors When there's Torque of Bikes

Meet the Bali Expat Sheila Burch

Sports OneFC's First Female Indonesian MMA Fighter

Travel Take a Tour Down Moke Land, Flores

Scams in the City Ghostbuster Busted

Faces of Indonesia Parman The Tissue and Face Mask Seller

Worthy Causes One Wave is All it Takes!

Food and Drink Keyaki's Key is Freshness!

Light Entertainment A Really Scary Thing

Fashion Shoe-be-do Heaven

Literature Indonesia Etc.: Exploring The Improbable Nation

Business Profile Adrian Bramantyo Musyanif: Chief Executive Officer of Samali Hotels & Resorts

24 26 27 28 30

Announcements Events Humorous Observation Hello, Statue?

I CAN’T BELIEVE YOU DON’T HAVE LIFE INSURANCE! FOR MORE INFORMATION AND QUOTATIONS PLEASE E-MAIL INFO@GMS-FINANCIAL.COM OR CALL (021) 520 3574

Classifieds Business Directory

PT ARIPA MAKMUR PERSADA Graha Aktiva (American Express Building) 4 th Floor, Suite 405, Jl. H. R. Rasuna Said, Kuningan, Jakarta 12950 - Indonesia

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FEATURED

The Kangaroo & the Komodo By Kenneth Yeung

“Australians remain wary of Indonesia,” declared a headline on the eve of Australian Prime Minister Tony Abbott’s recent meeting with President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono on the industrial island of Batam to bury the hatchet over a spying row. Is there serious mistrust between the two neighbours? Definitely not between Australians and Indonesians with strong personal or professional links. But most people in the two countries don’t have such ties. Suspicions are often based on ignorance and fuelled by attention-seeking politicians or reporters looking for a sensational story. The latest claims of unease stem from a telephone survey of 1,150 Australians in February. It found that 57% view Indonesia’s relationship with Australia as friendly, while a “feelings thermometer” measured Australian warmth to Indonesia at 52 degrees on a scale of 0° (very cold, unfavourable) to 100° (very warm, favourable). Most Australians know little or nothing about Indonesia. The media occasionally tells them about terrorism, unpunished people smugglers, natural disasters and drug busts. About one-third of Australians think Bali is a separate country. The figure was even higher before Schapelle Corby’s arrest almost 10 years ago. When I tell Indonesians that I’m Australian, the most common response I get is: Harry Kewell. He’s a recently retired Australian soccer player, who seems to enjoy greater fame abroad. Before Harry Kewell, the top

indonesia expat issue 120

response was Steve Irwin, the crocodile hunter, and before him, Mick Doohan, a motorcycle racing champion. At the top political level, the Indonesia-Australia relationship is prone to occasional crises, which are necessary for the development of greater understanding. Disputes are usually resolved amicably without escalating to threats of war. Indonesian ambassadors to Australia have been recalled a few times, but such action is more for public consumption to give the impression of tough leadership. When Yudhoyono completes his second and final term in October, Australia will lose one of its best friends. He has already forgiven Australia for attempting to tap his mobile phone, even though the two countries are yet to formulate a promised “code of conduct on spying”. The bilateral relationship could become more challenging if former general Prabowo Subianto is elected president, although he has rejected the views of several Indonesian politicians that Australia supports Papuan separatism and seeks to violate Indonesian sovereignty. Some Australians are upset that Indonesia is the biggest recipient of Australian aid: over A$500 million annually. They feel that Indonesia is becoming the wealthier country. Indonesia has foreign exchange reserves of $105.56 billion, compared to Australia’s forex of just $57.36 billion. Also, Indonesia’s foreign debt amounted to $276.5 billion in March, whereas Australia’s debt was at $1.51 trillion.

“Australia and Indonesia will continue to suffer future crises. Differences of opinion are inevitable, but they can always be discussed with the aim of furthering understanding and friendship.”

Both countries’ economies depend heavily on the exploitation of natural resources. The big difference is in per capita income, which averaged $3,557 in Indonesia in 2012, and $67,442 in Australia. The flip-side is that the cost of living is much lower in Indonesia, unless you live on imported wines and cheeses. There are only about 3,500 Australians legally working in Indonesia. Most of the foreign workers here are from China (14,371), then Japan (11,081), South Korea (9,075), India (6,047) and Malaysia (4,962). Yet geography makes the relationship with Australia of crucial importance. Australia and Indonesia will continue to suffer future crises. Differences of opinion are inevitable, but they can always be discussed with the aim of furthering understanding and friendship. >>

Kenneth Yeung is a Jakarta-based editor

APRIL 1942 In an early act of solidarity with Indonesian workers, the Australian Seamen's Union goes on strike to protest the treatment of Indonesian sailors who were interned for refusing to work on Dutch ships for low wages. SEPTEMBER 1945 The Australian Waterside Workers' Federation commences a policy of preventing Dutch ships laden with munitions and supplies from departing to Indonesia. Numerous Australian unions join the anti-Dutch blockade over the coming years. JULY 1947 After some ambivalence, Australia recognizes the Republic of Indonesia, limited to Java, Madura and Sumatra. Australia represents Indonesia at the United Nations. SEPTEMBER 1950 Australia co-sponsors Indonesia's admission to the United Nations.

SEPTEMBER 2004 The Australian Embassy in Jakarta is bombed by Jemaah Islamiyah terrorists, killing nine Indonesians, including the suicide bomber.

were inadvertently killed in cross-fire. Successive Australian governments support the cover-up, unwilling to risk damaging ties with Indonesia.

The Australian newspaper responds with a cartoon showing President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono as a dog copulating with a Papuan. Indonesia recalls its ambassador.

SEPTEMBER 1981 Afraid of upsetting Indonesia, the Australian Embassy dismisses aid officer Max Lane after he translates one of Pramoedya Ananta Toer’s banned books, Bumi Manusia, into English.

NOVEMBER 2006 Australia and Indonesia sign the Lombok Treaty, covering cooperation on security issues and “non-interference in the internal affairs of one another”.

APRIL 1986 The Sydney Morning Herald publishes a front-page article by its Indonesia correspondent David Jenkins, headlined ‘After Marcos, now for the Suharto billions’, exposing corruption linked to Suharto’s wife. Indonesia responds by expelling Jenkins, suspending visas for Australian journalists, and freezing diplomatic, military and cultural relations. A planeload of Australian tourists is denied entry to Indonesia. The Indonesian military accuses Australia of seeking to damage Indonesia’s international image. FEBRUARY 1988 Australian journalists are allowed to reopen bureaus in Indonesia.

1959 Prime Minister Robert Menzies becomes the first Australian leader to visit Indonesia, despite his concerns over the growing power of the Indonesian Communist Party. JANUARY 1962 Australia, falling into line with America, reverses its support for continued Dutch administration of West New Guinea. Australia had previously hoped the territory would eventually unify with Papua New Guinea.

MARCH 1965 After initially keeping out of the conflict, Australian troops join Commonwealth forces in Borneo to combat Indonesia’s undeclared war of Confrontation against Malaysia. Twenty-three Australians are killed in the conflict, which ends in 1966 after Suharto overthrows Sukarno. 1969 Australia detains two West Papuan independence activists for eight months to prevent them from protesting to the UN against Papua’s incorporation into Indonesia. OCTOBER 1975 Five Australia-based television journalists are killed by Indonesian troops in Balibo, East Timor, to prevent them from reporting on Indonesia’s invasion of the former Portuguese territory. Indonesia claims the five

NOVEMBER 1991 Indonesian troops massacre at least 250 unarmed East Timorese at a cemetery in Dili. The carnage galvanizes solidarity for the East Timorese independence struggle, though the Australian government continues to support Indonesian sovereignty over the territory. OCTOBER 1997 The Australian newspaper upsets Indonesia by publishing a cartoon depicting Suharto as an orangutan trying to escape forest fires and labelling him an ‘endangered species’. SEPTEMBER 1999 Australia leads a UN-mandated peacekeeping force into East Timor in response to killing sprees by Indonesian troops and their militia proxies, following the territory’s independence referendum. Relations hit an all-time low.

OCTOBER 2002 The Jemaah Islamiyah terrorist network bombs two nightclubs in Bali, killing 202 people, including 88 Australians. The incident leads to anti-terrorism cooperation. MARCH 2003 Australia joins the US-led invasion of Iraq, resulting in protests outside the Australian Embassy in Jakarta. Radical groups threaten to sweep Americans and Australians out of Indonesia.

OCTOBER 2004 Australian Schapelle Corby is arrested in Bali for attempting to smuggle in 4.2 kilograms of hydroponically grown marijuana. She is sentenced to 20 years in jail and paroled in 2014. JANUARY 2005 Australia announces a A$1 billion aid package for reconstruction and development in Indonesia following the December 2004 earthquake and tsunami that killed about 170,000 people in Aceh province. APRIL 2005 An Australian Navy helicopter crashes while delivering humanitarian aid to quake-ravaged Nias Island, killing nine personnel. The tragedy brings Indonesia and Australia closer.

APRIL 2005 Nine Australians are arrested in Bali for attempting to smuggle 8.3 kilograms of heroin out of Indonesia. They receive sentences ranging from 20 years to death.

MARCH 2007 Garuda Indonesia Flight 200 crashes at Yogyakarta’s airport, killing 22 people, including five Australians.

JULY 2009 Jemaah Islamiyah bombs the JW Marriott and Ritz-Carlton Hotels in Jakarta, killing seven people, including three Australians.

JUNE 2011 Australia suspends live cattle exports to Indonesia after TV footage shows cattle being whipped, slashed and clumsily slaughtered at Indonesian abattoirs.

OCTOBER 2005 Jemaah Islamiyah bombs three locations in Jimbaran and Kuta, Bali, killing 20 people, including four Australians. MARCH 2006 Australia grants protection visas to 42 Papuan asylum seekers who had accused the Indonesian military of genocide. Indonesia demands they be sent back and denies there is any repression in Papua.

The Rakyat Merdeka daily runs a cartoon depicting Australian Prime Minister John Howard and Foreign Minister Alexander Downer as copulating dingoes with designs on Papua.

OCTOBER 2013 Australian media release a document leaked by former US National Security Agency contactor Edward Snowden, indicating that Australia in August 2009 attempted to monitor phone calls made by President Yudhoyono and his inner circle. Australian Prime Minister Tony Abbott refuses to apologize, prompting Indonesia to withdraw its ambassador to Australia. One of Abbott’s chief strategists likens Indonesian Foreign Minister Marty Natalegawa to a Filipino porn star. Indonesia freezes military and intelligence cooperation. JANUARY 2014 Indonesia demands suspension of Australia’s maritime border protection policy after Australia admits some of its naval vessels made “inadvertent” incursions into Indonesian waters.

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MEET THE JAKARTA EXPAT

Jan Ouderman

Meet Jan Oudeman, an adventurous techie and founder of Grivy.com By Gabriella Panjaitan

a good glass of red wine would do. I love French, Italian, Turkish and Greek cuisine. I love to eat out as much as I eat at home as my wife is a fantastic cook; she makes her own yoghurts with oven baked honey cereals, prepares the most delicious pastas with fresh home-made basil sauce, or mouth-watering hummus with Turkish baked bread and barbequed minced lamb meat, so yes I am very blessed with my beautiful wife that sends lots of love through my stomach. Are there any tips for young entrepreneurs like yourself, trying to start their own start-ups in Jakarta? “Screw it, let's do it!” Richard Branson would say and this is very true. You might end up with a fantastic business plan but in the end you just have to do it and make it happen. Jakarta is a great place for business with lots of opportunities. Many business ideas that have worked in other countries are not here yet, so executing those in the Indonesian market are real opportunities.

Hello, Jan! Let’s start with where you are from? I am Dutch and decided to move to the Far East to get away as far as possible from our beautiful small country. Not that I didn’t like it there, but I was looking for another adventure. My wife and I looked on the map, saw the archipelago and thought, “This looks really nice, let’s go there!” Have you lived elsewhere before Indonesia? The first time I arrived in Indonesia was in 2008. Back then I worked for a software company. After two years, I went back to Europe for my studies. Just before we came to Jakarta my wife and I lived in Cape Town and Madrid. Are you an adventurous person? You decide: I got robbed by a group of 20 thieves in South Africa, drove through the Namib dessert in a Fiat Uno, rode on Ostriches, (almost) stepped on a Cape Cobra, did a lot of wild camping in Indonesia (and had several encounters with people with knives sitting next to our tent in the middle of the night!), stood eye to eye with a black panther in Ujung Kulon and went on exciting jungle trips with our 22-year-old Jeep CJ 7 Limited Edition, which wasn’t always very reliable (especially when it would start to rain). Tell us about your business, Grivy.com and how it started. Grivy is my own start-up that is incorporated as a Limited Liability Company in Indonesia. Jakarta has a lot to offer with respect to leisure activities, however finding something fun to do at a good price isn’t always easy. That is where we come in. Grivy helps you to discover great leisure deals, and the best part is that you decide how much to pay for it. These deals are leisure activities that you normally do in your free time - anything from going to a restaurant to white water rafting in Bali - up for bid through our online auction platform. How is Grivy unique from other e-commerce apps or websites? Grivy is the first start-up in Southeast Asia to offer online leisure activity auctions. We knew, however that developing a high tech auction platform would take time. As we wanted to interact with both customers and merchants as soon as possible, we decided to also offer other types of interesting deals and promotions in addition to the online auctions that will be launched in the coming weeks. 8

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Currently, Grivy promotes dining deals (book online and get discounts based on when you dine, card deals, etc.), locate credit card benefits from your favourite merchants and card issuer, and soon local deals - you can get more than 50% discount on online deal packages and auction deals. Next month we will launch three native mobile applications for BlackBerry, iOS and Android, all with built-in location-based technology which makes it very easy to find great deals near your current location. Have you encountered any difficulties in executing Grivy in Jakarta? What’s most challenging in starting Grivy? For start-ups that develop online platforms, the challenge is to get a good amount of users and merchants on board. We did quite a lot of user acquisition experiments which, I have to say, brought us good results.

What’s your ideal vacation spot? Flores and nearby islands, which look like they come straight from the Jurassic Park movies; very wild with staggering volcanoes, great nature and white sandy beaches with small sharks and sea turtles swimming around you. Amazing! Would you care to share a story that confirms your love of Indonesia? Oh yes. I do quite a lot of mountain biking in Bintaro where you still have rice fields. One morning, I was cycling through someone’s garden in the kampung, or should I say through someone’s bathroom as there was this gentleman sitting on his toilet in the rice field, waving at me, and with a big smile he said, “Selamat pagi!” Can you imagine? In Holland if you look over someone’s gate they would get angry with you!

“Being young and building an online business is an advantage as we are able to use and develop the latest technologies available in the market.” At the age of 27 is this your only business? Do you envision having other businesses in the future? Before Grivy.com I had another internet start-up that employers used to match job agencies and their available candidates with the employers’ vacant job positions. I will be focusing on Grivy for the coming years, as we are here to build a sustainable business. I am a bit of a geek and I love new technology. If there would be another business in the future, then it would definitely be another internet venture. Are there any disadvantages of having your own business at a young age? I don’t think so. Being young and building an online business is an advantage as we are able to use and develop the latest technologies available in the market. Our generation is very much digitally-orientated and these days all needed tools and systems are available at a relatively low cost. With the birth of Grivy, I’d think you’re a fan of eating out. What area of Jakarta do you frequent for eating out? That’s right. Anything Mediterranean (I love Italy!) with

Do you have a hobby or an organization you belong to? In my free time I act as the treasurer of a non-government organization, overseeing the financials of 25 outreach partner projects. It’s very rewarding to see what all of our orphanages, street children projects, scholarships and elderly homes have achieved over many years of hard work, which is generously supported by the members of our church All Saints Jakarta and outside donors. If you weren’t a businessman, what would you be doing in a city like Jakarta? If not for business, I wouldn’t be living in Jakarta. No, that’s a joke. I mean Indonesia is a beautiful country, but Jakarta is a city that has many problems (and opportunities!) that never seem to get solved as nobody seems to be taking responsibility. What makes a great businessman? I would say that success can never be separated from the team that made it possible. Even with the most robust technology, it’s still the team that determines success.

MEET THE BALI EXPAT

SHEILA BURCH

Bill Dalton has been writing travel features, book reviews, interviews and guidebooks about Indonesia for more than 40 years, starting with his groundbreaking Indonesia Handbook first published in 1976. Bill lives on a farm with his Indonesian family deep in the countryside of west Bali.

MEET SHEILA BURCH, AN AMERICAN YOGA TEACHER AND FOUNDER OF THE UBUD YOGA HOUSE, BALI

By Bill Dalton

Sheila Burch was born in Atlanta, Georgia and grew up in Seattle. In 1984, she embarked on a two-year backpacking trip around the world. In 1987, Sheila moved to Paris where she lived for eight years and became a French resident. She left France in 1995 and started working in international schools in Indonesia, Ecuador, Nepal, China and Azerbaijan. Sheila took her first yoga class in 1981. She subsequently studied yoga in Nepal, China, France and Bali, while being posted abroad as an educator. In 2013, Sheila travelled to India to study with the Iyengar family at the Iyengar Institute in Pune for a month. She holds a Yoga Alliance teaching certificate. Inspired with the idea of helping others by sharing the joy and benefits of yoga, in 2014 Sheila opened the Ubud Yoga House where she now serves as director and instructor.

Sheila, what are your interests? I love travelling, writing, reading and meeting interesting people. I am especially intrigued with Buddhism, mindfulness and positive psychology. When was your first visit to Bali? I first visited in 1985. I spent three months in Ubud and have been attached to it ever since. I stayed in Mawar Homestay on Jl. Raya and have been friends with the family since the 1980s. How did you first become interested in Yoga? I did my first yoga class in Santa Barbara, California in the early 1980s when I was going through a divorce. At that time yoga was only found in recreation centres and was considered a ‘fringe’ activity. I was instinctively drawn to it during a time of crisis, which I find very interesting. I did not continue with yoga for many years until I moved to Nepal in 1997. What particular style of yoga do you practice? I have primarily studied Iyengar Yoga started by BKS Iyengar who is now 95 and still practicing yoga in Pune, India. I also practice Vinyasa and Yin yoga. What are the benefits of yoga? The benefits are both physical and mental. Yoga postures develop flexibility, balance and strength and help to calm the mind.

“Yoga postures develop flexibility, balance and strength and help to calm the mind.”

How did the Ubud Yoga House get its start? I had been teaching in international schools for over 20 years and decided to ‘settle down’ and utilize my teaching skills and share my passion for yoga with others by opening a yoga studio in Ubud. With the help of the family that I met in 1985, I found a beautiful location and built my house with the intention of having an open-air yoga studio. What is special about Ubud Yoga House? The stunning location of the Ubud Yoga House is its most unique feature. It is an open-air studio overlooking the rice fields with panoramic views. It’s only a 15-minute walk from the Ubud Palace, yet it feels like it’s in the middle of nowhere. Another special feature is that it is a boutique yoga studio, which means that the classes are small, allowing for

personalized individual instruction and attention. I am especially welcoming for beginners or people who have little experience with yoga. The Ubud Yoga House also provides an opportunity for more advanced yoga students to receive individual instruction. Why did you decide to locate your business in Ubud? I’ve been attached to Ubud since the mid-1980s and love the alternative community of vegetarians, vegans, yogis and spiritual seekers who call this town home. Ubud is still small and has a sense of community. I also like the Balinese culture and religion and the Balinese emphasis on community living and the influence of spirituality upon daily life. How did Ubud become such a world-renowned hub for yoga and meditation? Yoga has a spiritual/healing aspect to it and Ubud has always been a healing place, going back to the original meaning of Ubud as medicine or healing. Balinese Hinduism has similar roots as yoga, which comes from India and the Hindu tradition. Ubud just ‘fits’ with yoga because of this Hindu connection. Ubud is also unique because it offers many styles of yoga in a small community. What do you mean by “student-centred” classes? This means that the focus is on the student and how best to meet their needs in a class with various student levels. I teach according to the capability of each student and adapt my classes to meet the needs of all students. Who is the typical person who takes part in your yoga classes? A tourist visiting Bali for either a few days or a few months. Who is your youngest and oldest student? I had a family from Bulgaria that did the class with their four-year-old and six-year-old! I have a regular student who lives in Ubud and comes in twice a week. She just celebrated her 70th birthday. Are your students different in motivation, manner and character from the students you’ve taught in, say, India, Thailand, France and Azerbaijan? Same but different! Except for cultural differences such as how they dress for yoga class, I’ve found students to be the same around the world. Do you use any equipment in your classes? I use blocks, straps and blankets to help meet the needs of all students. Where do you find your yoga teachers? I am the only teacher. I teach three classes a day. Are there any other issues you’d like to talk about? I would love to know how to let people know about my classes. My reviews on Trip Advisor from people who have attended are excellent, but most people don’t know the Ubud Yoga House exists! Our website is www. ubudyogahouse.com, and we also have the Ubud Yoga House Facebook page and Trip Advisor.

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TRAVEL

Take a Tour Down Moke Land, Flores Stefan Danerek is a translator of Indonesian literature, a writer and a researcher. Currently he conducts documentation of language and oral traditions in Flores and Palu'e. You can contact him at cawalunda@yahoo.se .

By Stefan Danerek

gathering is just not complete if there is no moke. It relieves stress, makes you enjoy the moment and forget your troubles. It reinvigorates you after work and is good for sex, especially if spiced with something. Moke brings people together. Seemingly there is no end to the praise of moke.

Sikka, Flores photo courtesy of Budi Sun Resort

I had come many times to Indonesia and had visited islands and places all the way from Sabang to Sumbawa, but I had never set foot on NTT (Nusa Tenggara Timur), the Eastern Indonesia province. Earlier this year a project finally brought me east, to the regencies Sikka and Lio in Flores. My point of arrival was Maumere, the capital city of Sikka that has an airport. Coming from Jakarta, the first thing that struck me was how laidback it is, and how fresh the air is, with scents of dried grass and crops. Maumere is still mostly kampung, apart from the city centre and main road. Maumere is located by the sea and seafood is plenty, bought in at either the main harbour’s morning market or late afternoon in Wuring, the picturesque village populated by the daring Bajo sea gypsy community. Maumere Bay has a number of sandy beaches from where you see Pulau Besar, to where boats and dive trips go. Maumere is not at all like Kuta, Bali — no lively bars and discos, but home parties are very common. Flores is almost three times the size of Bali with half the population, home to about ten languages and as many ethnic groups that have much in common, but also have differences that make it interesting to tour the island. The culture is different from the main cultures of Java, and the largest religion is Catholicism. Flores culture is down to earth and you are very likely to be invited by some people for food and drinks. Lepeng means chilling out with friends and sharing drinks and food and the drink is most likely to be local arak, called moke. First allow for a disclaimer: usual precautions should be paid heed to — don’t drink or buy moke from the street. It is better to know how the moke is sourced if you want to buy a bottle, and it is better to try it with friends who are in the know. On Java and Lombok oplosan, arak of poor quality mixed with God knows what, is sold and it can have dire consequences for your well-being. In Flores the manufacturers of arak, traditional home distilleries, are usually very close to the consumers, and that is why arak is safe there. Regular drinkers of moke prefer it when it is produced traditionally with earthen kettles, burning wood and long bamboos through which the alcoholic steam flows. 10

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The economy was also mentioned — it is an important part of the local rural economy. Many people depend upon it for their income (I mentioned that people also waste money on moke, but that is another story). Distilleries are usually small and located in the backyard. Other necessary ingredients to make a gathering complete and please the guests in Flores are tobacco, coffee and sugar, and sirih pinang (betel), although more common in the countryside or at larger ceremonies. The drink is produced all around Southeast Asia and South Asia and is made from a variety of plants: sugar cane, coconut, the juice from the sugar palm (Enau) and the similar Lontar palm tree (Borassus sundaicus). In Flores it is mostly the latter two that are used to produce arak. The lontar juice is tasty, and it is a drink that has helped people in dry areas to survive, just like the coconut palm tree. It is a tree of life, providing all basic needs.

A man is tapping tuak in the late afternoon. Waigete, Sikka, Flores

A local tapping one of his lontar trees. Palu’e, Flores.

Wood and coconut is used to heat the clay canister.

A happy moke producer is chilling out with a glass of moke while watching over the distillation process. Waigete, Sikka, Flores

In Flores, parties are not limited to evenings and nights. Sundays and holidays are days of lepeng, but lepeng can happen at any time of the day. Even in the morning you will see a group of friends preparing some food and open a bottle of moke to go with it. It is not obligatory to drink, although custom, and not everyone does. Women can drink too, but less.

cl. Bintang bottle with moke was bought from the neighbour. This drink is often spiced with different kinds of roots, or even creatures from both land and sea. Often a kind of cucumber, pare, is put in the bottle just to make it taste more fresh. The moke this afternoon was flavoured in a more creative way, with essence from fresh apples that gave the drink a red colour and ridded some of the alcohol taste. To the tunes of both Flores and Western music we talked and made jokes until late afternoon. A third bottle was opened.

Recently on a Sunday I ended up lepeng when visiting a local friend who lives near a beach at the outskirts of Maumere. By midday, a few of his friends came by to enjoy grilled fish and the beach. When the fish was done it was immediately decided that a bottle of moke had to be opened. Soon a couple of friends from the neighbourhood joined. Because there were now about eight people, a second 62

“What does moke mean to you?” I asked several of my new friends that Sunday afternoon. Replies would mostly revolve around having a good time, but the words culture and adat (custom) were also invoked. Any family and non-family

In Flores, lontar juice is called moke putih (white moke). In Indonesian the juice is called tuak manis (sweet tuak) and it is consumed all over Indonesia, although it is becoming more unusual. Sellers of tuak manis even used to stalk the streets of Jakarta until about two decades ago. Now less than a handful of sellers remain. What is so remarkable about this drink is not just the taste; it is sweet when just fetched from the tree and until a few hours later when it turns a little bitter and sour. At this stage it has already fermented and is an alcoholic beverage like beer. Tuak manis is extracted from the lontar tree through an intricate process where one or several of the tree’s large branches are cut, tied with wood, and hit for several days until fluid sips out of the branch tip. Bamboo containers or buckets are then placed under the tip. Within 12 hours these contain up to five litres of tuak manis. To get both quality and quantity, the branch is finely cut and cleaned each time the juice is fetched. The branch continues to give juice for about three months, twice a day. The lontar blossoms twice a year and two trees can support a family with enough fluid to live if water is scarce. Both the male and the female lontar can produce juice, but usually the male is used because the female is more difficult and must be tapped prior to fruiting. If left untouched fruits develop, which are used to feed pigs and are also delicious as dessert. The juice can also be used for the production of sugar. Tuak manis is nutritious and healthy. As mentioned previously, it is not obligatory to drink moke. You can still enjoy Flores culture and social gatherings there without it, but knowledge of local culture is always helpful. If you do not like alcoholic beverages you should give tuak manis a chance. It is safe, healthy and tasty, direct from nature.

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FACES OF INDONESIA

Parman THE TISSUE AND FACE MASK SELLER By Hush Petersen

The idea of being an entrepreneur is quickly trivializing itself, and rightfully so. Over the past five years Indonesia — and the rest of the world for that matter — has become obsessed with the idea of telling all about how you are an entrepreneur or a social entrepreneur. We talk about it as if it were the air we breathe. It’s as if nowadays, you are only as good as your business idea. We’re obsessed. So obsessed in fact, that rather than actually be an entrepreneur, we would rather talk about it. It is, after all, safe that way. People like to talk about success; what defines it, what it means to them. They love to talk about examples. For most people, talking is what they are good at. It's the real work they struggle with. That is why we use words like “sustainable” and “innovative”, to pacify ourselves. And while cafes and restaurants are packed with 20-somethings floating "the next big idea” to one another, there are people like Parman, a 63-year-old from Ciputat, who has been selling tissues, socks and face masks to fight the Kopaja smoke for the last two years in the shade of the Senayan bridge in Jakarta. That's a real entrepreneur. The next generation could learn a few things from him. Every morning, Parman sets up shop as the sun starts to warm the pavement. He usually packs it up around 2 or 3pm. Out in front of the tall office buildings, between the bustling foot traffic and blaring horns, he smiles and invites passersby to pick up tissues or a face mask. The socks are for emergencies. You never know when you are going to need an extra pair. Parman has thought of everything.

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"I used to sell snacks," he says with an avuncular grin. "But you would be surprised how tissues sell." See, that's innovation. That is sustainability. Selling snacks wasn’t working out. Parman found that what people really wanted was tissues and face masks. The snacks went the way of travel agents and the horse-and-buggy. He adjusted to the market. And while everyone is preoccupied with telling everyone their business ideas, Parman simply went out and made it happen. One of the most successful small business owners in Jakarta, a gentleman who owns a number of popular coffee shops once told me, "Entrepreneur is just a word. If you want to sell something, sell it. The guy who sells erasers, that's an entrepreneur. That's what people should be doing, trying stuff. Not just going to events and talking about what it would be like. Just go out and do it." And that's exactly what Parman does. And he does it every day. Rain or shine, there he is. He's a staple. Right along with the gorengan guy and the pack of ojek drivers, there sits Parman, smiling and outselling everyone around him. Now that's success.

Hush Petersen is currently on sabbatical from the hero's journey. He loves sipping Budweisers, doing the crossword and judging people outside Ranch Market in Mega Kuningan. You should join him some time.

FOOD & DRINK

Keyaki's Key is Freshness!

RATING SUMMARY FOOD SERVICE VALUE ATMOSPHERE

By Gabriella Panjaitan

Japanese cuisine is no doubt an acquired taste to some. In Jakarta, Japanese food has often been ‘watered down’ to more casual joints, with modified flavours and sometimes questionable freshness. For modern Japanese restaurants, fusion sushi is the usual deal. Traditional Japanese restaurants don’t come in the bunch in Jakarta, but when you find a good one, you stick to that one. The key is freshness. “Irasshaimase!” is the proper greeting at a Japanese restaurant, a phrase that means ‘welcome to our shop’. Upon being greeted in such a way at Keyaki restaurant, a nice traditional Japanese interior met the eyes, it was the sort of interior that compels you to feel transported to an actual Japanese home, just casually having lunch or dinner there for a few hours. Perhaps it’s the white walls with wooden squares accents, purposefully built like a shoji, a traditional Japanese room divider made of translucent paper and wood frames. Or perhaps it is the servers all dressed up in kimonos or the tatami dining setting at the VIP room. In any case, my first impression of Keyaki is centred on its success in creating a homey Japanese atmosphere.

featuring vegetables, shrimp and fish tempura with a soybased tempura dip. The crunchiness of the tempura is just right and was a delicious start to the meal. Robatayaki counter

Another sushi platter to arrive was the Rock ‘n Roll (98K), which consisted of scallops, grilled eel, prawn and bonito flakes. This particular roll is crunchy on the inside and the grilled scallops on top practically melts in your mouth. Served with a bit of mayonnaise, this is a great fusion sushi dish at Keyaki.

Gindara Set Rp. 276,000

Keyaki is housed under the roof of Sari Pan Pacific Jakarta hotel in Central Jakarta. It was first established in 1976, along with the opening of the hotel. Ever since then, Keyaki has undergone some renovations to get to its present state and even changed its name from Furusato to its current Keyaki. The place has since stayed true to its trademark of serving authentic Japanese cuisine among a sea of fusion sushi restaurants in the city.

One of the most recommended, mouth-watering dishes at Keyaki is the Gindara Teriyaki Zen (276K). This is a set menu with soft and properly seasoned cod fillet with Keyaki’s teriyaki sauce. This dish is served with rice, miso soup, salad and a mini tempura set. The set is a great option for lunch. The Beef Teriyaki set (240K) is another favourite of Keyaki’s patrons. It’s not the end of the meal before dessert is served. Keyaki offers an array of ice cream and sherbet flavours, served with red bean paste on top for 48K/scoop. One of the tastiest is the Black Sesame Ice Cream (75K/scoop) and it is home-made. Other options for dessert include fresh fruits, pan-fried banana with honey and black forest cake.

By the entrance, a Robatayaki counter is proudly displayed. This is the Japanese way of grilling, and guests get an assortment of fresh seafood to choose from at this bar. In addition to the Robatayaki grill, and of course freshly cut sushi and sashimi, Keyaki’s cuisine is prepared in a variety of ways, such as teppanyaki, sukiyaki, yakiniku and even shabu-shabu. As I was shown to my seat in this spacious restaurant, the customary wet towel greeted me at the table, a common practice at Japanese restaurants. The friendly servers were quick to offer guests a glass of ocha, or green tea, which in Keyaki is offered on a free-refill basis.

The food was prepared swiftly and elegantly as our sushi arrived. The Salmon Avocado Roll (87K) was exquisite and fresh, it was gone in seconds. Another winner on the sushi menu is the Hot Special (86K) which is also a salmon-based roll with avocado and spicy seasoning. This roll takes home the trophy as the salmon is slightly smoked and is simply heaven to the palate.

Beverages at Keyaki are just as important as it complements your authentic Japanese food experience. Beer is served all day, sake is popular during dinner time and green tea is endlessly flowing.

Sashimi Keyaki

Keyaki’s menu is very large and varied; it helps to know what you are jonesing for when coming in. If noodles are your preference, the Nabeyaki Udon (110K) is a classic must-try dish. Served with either chicken or beef, Nabeyaki Udon comes in a very large serving, with piping hot soup and vegetable tempura on the side. Most dishes in Keyaki comes in a large portion, it would be advisable to share.

Single diners are seen by the bunch at Keyaki, but tables of group business lunch-goers also frequent the restaurant, especially during the weekends when the weekend buffet deal (210K++) is on offer. Keyaki welcomes a large amount of regular customers every day, and these loyal customers are a testament to their delicious and fresh food daily. Keyaki's Chef makes sure that freshness of seafood, vegetables and all other dishes is up to a top-tier standard. If you feel like having a nice lunch or dinner in what feels practically like Japan, Keyaki is a superior option. The authentic Japanese food at Keyaki is not only delicious, it’s a timeless classic.

KEYAKI To start, we dined on the Nama Yasai Mori, or fresh garden salad (45K). As previously said, freshness is key at this well-respected restaurant, and it’s even apparent in the preparation of the salad. Order the fresh salmon or tuna nigiri sushi and you won’t be sorry. The assorted Keyaki Tempura dish (150K) is an instant favourite as a starter,

Keyaki Interior

Sari Pan Pacific Jakarta Hotel (lobby level) Jl. MH. Thamrin 6, Central Jakarta Ph: (021) 2993-2752 Lunch: 11.30am – 2pm Dinner: 6pm – 10.30pm

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FASHION

Shoe-be-do Heaven

Being around glamour all her life, Victoria developed a sense of style that has led her to fashion styling, journalism and designing her debut collection. E-mail: tori@toribannermanlondon.com

By Victoria Bannerman

Sergio Rossi Mead patchwork open toe booties

in attendance will beg to be your chattel. You will experience a gamut of emotions by the way of glances from the female species present. From spleenful jealousy to admiration, the false smiles and the resistance to forcibly remove your shoe will make you secretly chuffed that you spent that cash money!

Sergio Rossi Mermaid

Sergio Rossi Filligree Butterfly sandals

Sergio Rossi Love

It is official — I am a shoe addict! Four hundred pairs and counting! I don't care much for ‘it’ bags and I carry a leather tasselled bag, which was a display piece in a jewellery shop that became mine through my gentle persuasive powers and a little haranguing. The bag is now beat down and battered but always receives compliments! Who needs an ‘it’ bag? But shoes, they are a different story. I’ve been known to live off rice and beans whilst employing Machiavellian tactics just to own a pair of shoes! And the usual line after mission accomplished is, "Oh these, had them for ages.” There is something seductively gratifying when you slip on a pair of towering heels; the sexy swagger switch is ramped up and nothing can stand in the way of getting what you want! Being in Jakarta (or the Jaks as I’ve come to know it), it has come to my attention that finding shoes can be difficult when you have rather large hooves like I do. I am not going to tell you my size but suffice to say ‘ugly sisters’ in Cinderella comes to mind when I desperately try to shove my feet into the largest size they have! I will simply have to order in my size. Wandering around the malls in the Jaks, I discovered the Sergio Rossi shoe boutique, shoe-be-do-manna filled with breathtakingly beautiful shoes. The boutique is boudoir chic personified and Sergio, may I please move in? I remember, with great fondness, the first pair of Sergio Rossi shoes I bought in London. The beans and their accompanying flatulence programme were 14

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Sergio Rossi Juno

One of my many pairs of shoes the Wunderkind lace wedge

set in motion and like an expectant mother awaiting her new arrival, I would carry out my ritual of window shopping the shoes until they were mine. When it was time, I glided into the boutique and while pretending to browse, I ‘happened’ to notice the shoes! Shallow, I know, but it made the purchase look spontaneous. Sometimes shop assistants can be rather snooty, so you wouldn’t want them to know you had to do the ‘programme’ before you a purchase.

My wish list is as follows. A cage sandal, nude with crystal embellishments called MERMAID. It is sensually seductive and is the kind of shoe that you can throw on with a pair of ripped jeans (rolled up of course) with a white t-shirt and rock up to a party. LOVE is a high wedge black suede shoe with gold laminate calfskin. It will make your legs look endless and will give that 1940s sex siren appeal. Go and invest! JUNO is a strappy, barely there sandal that comes in a luscious green suede with embellishments; wear it with a Taj by Sabrina sexy kaftan and strut your stuff. MEDEA is a suede patchwork, multicolour peep-toe ankle boot that screams “look at me!" and is downright libidinous. It has a matching clutch bag and where I would not normally purchase the matching bag, this simply has to be done. Hideous kinky comes to mind. Wear with the shortest black dress or nothing. Last but by no means least, the pièce de résistance of the collections is the recherché FILIGREE and if the Palace of Versailles were a shoe, this would be it. Imagine these on your perfectly manicured hooves. Their exquisitely charming gaudy persona makes them arrestingly alluring. The gold laminate butterfly effect of both the black satin sandal and the T-bar sandal is inconceivably beautiful and bewitching! If you are lucky to own a pair, only a glass box positioned on your impossibly large marble table on a sphinx in the middle of your three hundred square foot hall mansion for all to see is their only befitting home! So go on, float on the dance floor with MERMAID, kick ass with MEDEA, be a flirt with FILIGREE, be a goddess in JUNO and be virtuous in LOVE.

Fast forward a few years and both Sergio Rossi's Spring/Summer2014 and pre-Fall 2014 do not disappoint. I am in love; both collections are as alluringly lascivious, yet ravishing in a delightfully sublime way with a hint of frou-frou thrown in. A girl can never ever have enough shoes - if you are one of the few lucky ones to possess an American Express Centurion Card, then every pair can be yours! Visit SR in Senayan City and be dazzled. The opulence of the shop can only be compared to a modern day Hanging Gardens of Babylon, where shoes balance precariously on Perspex stands and look mystically serene as if suspended in the ether. Some of the shoes are in gilded gold cages, and did I mention the air, redolent of the most extravagant Oud? This is a shoeholic's account of getting a fix!

If your card is insisting on staying put in your wallet, then fear not. It will magically appear if you mention Kurt Geiger, an online store emporium (they have stores in London) and yes, I have checked, they deliver to Indonesia! Take a look at Glaze, Eva, Lalouche 4, Britton and Belgravia, and I dare you not to be tempted. Prices are pocket friendly and with a click of a mouse, ding dong and the shoes are at your door.

These shoes can only be described as Rubenesque; the cut is shapely and well proportioned. They are the sort of shoes that create a gangway when you sashay into a soiree, and will get you the coveted invite to the Ambassador’s table. The male species

I will never tire of buying shoes, the sensation of slipping them on is an incredibly hedonistic feeling and when I am a glamorous octogenarian you will find me hobbling in my heels humming, "I’m too sexy for my shoes!”

Here in Jakarta, Rococo stocks an amazing plethora of shoes from an eclectic range of designers. They can be found in malls like Pacific Place et al. Charles and Keith is also an affordable chain of shoe shops and of course you have your other usual suspects like Christian Louboutin, Roberto Cavalli, Valentino and Gucci.

LITERATURE

INDONESIA ETC.

Exploring the Improbable Nation

Terry Collins is the co-author of Culture Shock Jakarta! and sole author of the Jakartass blog (http://jakartass.net), now also on Facebook.

By Terry Collins

“I dumped my bags in a dispiriting hotel room, asked the staff to clear out the dead cockroaches and headed out to explore.” And explore Indonesia with a very keen eye and widening mind is what Elizabeth Pisani (EP) did for just over a year in 2011/12. She was first posted here by Reuters in 1988, having backpacked the banana pancake circuit of North Sumatra, Java and Bali in 1983. She left Indonesia in 1991 “following several differences of opinion with the military about the accuracy of [her] reporting, particularly around the unfolding civil war in the northwestern province of Aceh.” Ten years later she returned with a PhD and spent four years as an epidemiologist, specializing in HIV and helping the Ministry of Health “track the speed of an epidemic it would prefer to ignore.” Her experiences here and in other countries lead to her book The Wisdom of Whores. For her return, in choosing what to explore in such a vast country she opted for “the principle of random selection” figuring that by simply trusting that if she “got out there and looked through the eyes of enough people in enough places, [she’d] be able to piece the fragments together into a portrait of the nation as a whole, to understand better the threads that tie the glorious disparity together.” That meant that she explored places and cultures outside the dominant Java and the usual haunts of tourists and most travellers. Starting out as “a hard drinking occasional smoker”, she “settled into the rhythm of life in extraordinary places” and discovered an Indonesia “quite different from the one [she] thought [she] knew.” Villages and small towns in Sumba, Flores, the islands of the Moluccas from Kei up to Ternate, Aceh, West Kalimantan, Lombok, and the cities of Semarang, Surabaya and Solo were places which she visited, some revisited, generally staying in homes as an invited guest, often following a chance encounter. That way “you get to hear and see more than in, say, a coffee shop where you get the braggart's view, and it is that view, expressed in public, that most often makes it into history.” Some of these places I recognise from my own visits; Banda, Ambon and Ternate in the Moluccas, and Semarang’s Kota Tua in particular. In so doing, not only do I find myself smiling and nodding with recognition, as in my opening quote, but actually learning about and understanding aspects of Indonesia which faintly glimmered in my consciousness, but now that she's brought them into my focus seem so obvious. EP offers the historical context in broad strokes. For example, the fundamental foundation of Indonesia is

Indonesia Etc. By Elizabeth Pisani Published June 2014 In the UK by Granta In the US by WW Norton In Indonesia by Godown, an imprint of Lontar (www.lontar.org)

Bhinneka Tunggal Ika (Unity in Diversity), and that is based on the historical role of the aptly named trade winds.

of modernisation (read: ‘decentralisation’) in collective societies [is that] the all-encompassing security of a shared culture gets sold off in exchange for individual fulfilment.”

“They blew south from China between December and March, and provided a fast passage up to India from June to September. In the interim months, the islands sat in the fickle-winded Doldrums. During these months, traders sat in the bustling ports that grew up to meet their needs. They married local girls in each port and left them to source cargo for their next visit.”

Within the political sphere, following reformasi and the dismantling of Suharto’s centralised Orde Baru, there is now “so much democracy around that almost everyone has someone somewhere in the system delivering for them.” So “the disconnect between what comes out of the central government ministries in Jakarta and what goes on in the districts is growing more pronounced.”

Then, with detailed descriptions, she points out that visitors to today's markets “will probably find much the same sights and smells as Marco Polo did seven centuries ago.”

Amid the serious, almost philosophical, ruminations, lie small gems observed with a sardonic eye for the seemingly mundane. For instance, she is absolutely spot on with her description of the ubiquitous Padang restaurants and points out that “while not all of the food is appetizing, there will always be something you like.”

Many of the cultures she meets are still very much rooted in adat, the traditions carried down through the generations, yet “villagers film a ritual sacrifice on their mobile phones [which] presents the nation’s leaders with a headache. If ancient and modern Indonesia co-exist, which should they make laws for?” She observes the clan system and suggests that what many call ‘corruption’ may be best described as ‘patronage’. Certain ‘positions’ are ‘reserved’ for members of the clan, and the exchange of items of ‘homage’ — from pigs to buffaloes at weddings and funerals in rural areas, to cash in cities and government centres — are traditionally a symbol of respect for the positions in a hierarchy. In bureaucracies, that translates as the excuse that “belum dapat petunjuk” — ‘I haven’t received instructions yet’ and Asal Bapak Senang (ABS) — ‘as long as father is happy’.

I romped through the book, revelling in the details sourced from her observations (because she was “always scribbling in notebooks”). In nigh on 400 pages, with a glossary, occasional footnotes, suggestions for further reading, and a valuable index, EP has written an always fascinating travelogue. Very few of us have done more than scratch the surface of the etceteras beyond our immediate surroundings, and Indonesia Etc., is surely the richest account of contemporary Indonesia yet to be published. It is a nation quite different from the one we think we know.

Elizabeth Pisani’s blog: http://indonesiaetc.com/

However, she offers no excuses for the often blatant grabbing of local funds for self-promotion. The central dilemma

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BUSINESS PROFILE

Adrian Bramantyo Musyanif Affectionately known by many as Pak Bram, he is the Chief Executive Officer of Samali Hotels & Resorts By Angela Richardson

Pak Bram, you are a young yet exceptionally successful businessman. Please tell us a little about your journey and how you ended up where you are today. I finished my undergraduate at Universitas Indonesia, Faculty of Economy, majoring in Human Resource Management. Actually, I took Marketing Management previously, but after several semesters, I decided to move to Human Resources Management because for us, people are the greatest and most valuable asset for the company. When finishing my undergraduate, I had an internship with PT. PP (Persero) Tbk. as an HR staff. There, I took part in planning and in the preparation of PP University. After I finished my undergraduate, I could be full time in my family business, a property business founded by my father, Mr. Musyanif. Roles and responsibilities keep increasing until now. Failure, problems, etc. are always there, but I try to look at them as opportunities not enemies. Currently, in the holding company, I’m appointed as Strategic Business Partner. Besides, I also have a big responsibility when appointed as the CEO of Samali Hotels & Resorts. What does the position of CEO demand of you? The role demands the CEO to successfully plan and guide the organization in determining its strategic direction and competitive positioning; thinking of ways on how to expand the chain and ensuring that each property implements the use of high quality materials in its construction. In human resources, the role also demands on decision-making regarding people development. Samali’s logo has three elements in the form of high-rise buildings. It means Samali must bring the know-how from hotel concept, construction process and quality to hotel management, the latest being the most essential in the form of service excellence. If we should ever lack in the first two, I believe exceeding guest expectations through sincere, warm and immaculate service will make up for other shortages. That is why our philosophy is called HOTS — Harmony of the Senses; excellent service through all five senses: hearing, touch, taste, sight and smell. I feel fortunate as CEO, I have received total support from my Samali team. To be surrounded by experts in their fields have really helped a lot in the road to achieving our mission and vision. Can you please give us a brief history on the Samali Hotels? Samali is a word in Sanskrit meaning ‘bouquet’, that is why each brand of Samali Hotels & Resorts is designated the name of a specific flower. Samali, consequently, is a flower bouquet or a collection of flowers: Ammi, Allium, Arum and Azara. Samali Hotels & Resorts was established in 2011 by Mr.

Sylvain Julien who has extensive experience in managing five-star hotels. We aim to not just build hotels, but ensure we build quality hotels. Does the group plan to open any new hotels this year? And do all of your hotels start with the letter ‘a’? We are soon opening our first five-star hotel, Ammi Cepu, Central Java in the third quarter of 2014. All our hotel brands start with the letter ‘a’: Ammi Luxurious Collection, Allium Upscale Collection, Arum Traveller Collection and Azara Bed & Breakfast Collection. We find this an effective strategy in branding. What are the target markets for your hotels? Depending on the brand, from budget travellers for Azara hotels, value for money travellers/middle scale for Arum hotels, upscale business travellers for Allium hotels to travellers who demand luxurious experience/high profile corporate segment for Ammi hotels. What properties does the Samali Hotels & Resorts group have under their wings? We launched our first four-star hotel, or we prefer to call it our Upscale Collection, the Allium Airport Hotel in Tangerang, in January 2014 with 157 rooms, 11 thematic meeting rooms and a ballroom that accommodates up to 1,200 people. We also have several properties coming up in Bali, Medan, Batam, Jogjakarta and Banjarmasin in the next couple of years. What was the Essence on Darmawangsa project like to complete from start to finish? Where do the challenges lie in the construction industry in Indonesia? The Essence on Darmawangsa Apartment is a sister company of Samali under Prakarsa Semesta Alam (PSA), with a total of 5.2 ha, consisting of 30% buildings and 70% green area. The apartment is about to finish its third tower (East Tower) and will start the groundbreaking of its fourth tower this year (North Tower). The most affecting problem in apartment construction would be the delays, which cause major issues and lead to mistrust for potential buyers. Are you planning any further apartment projects in the near future? In progress are the Nifarro Apartments in Pasar Minggu and Royal Betawi Apartments in Tangerang. We are also planning and designing a new apartment in the Cipulir area. Please tell us about the US$ 5 million which you donated [on behalf of Samali Hotels & Resorts] towards the Indonesia Health Fund, along with Bill Gates and several other successful business men and women of Indonesia. Where will your money be going and who will it be helping?

BUSINESS SNIPPET

DIB Buys Indonesian Bank Stake Dubai bank pays Dh78M for 25% of Bank Panin Dubai Islamic Bank (DIB) has completed the purchase of a 24.9 percent stake in Indonesia's Bank Panin Syariah from its parent firm, an executive at Bank Pan Indonesia was quoted as saying. DIB, the largest Islamic bank in the United Arab Emirates, said last month that it was in talks to buy 25 percent of Indonesia's only listed Shariahcompliant lender, which it would jointly manage and operate with Bank Pan Indonesia. In two separate statements to the Indonesian stock exchange, Bank Panin Indonesia said an unidentified buyer 16

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By Reuters

had acquired 10 percent of the Islamic unit on May 21 and 13.5 percent on May 22. No purchase price was given in the filings. However, Roosniati Salihin, vice president of Bank Panin Indonesia, told reporters that the buyer was the Dubai-based bank. "The agreement (with DIB) was made official about two weeks ago," Salihin was quoted as saying. "Now DIB controls a 24.9 percent stake in Bank Panin Syariah, while Panin remains the majority shareholder with 64.01 percent," she added.

BUSINESS SNIPPET

“To be successful you have to be brave to take risks, take each opportunity that comes and not be afraid to fail.”

It started with the Bill & Melinda Gates Foundation, which focuses on worldwide health. They came to Indonesia and formed a partnership with the Tahir Foundation. With a target of US$ 80 million, Mr. Tahir then asked Indonesian businessmen to join in the forming of the Indonesia Health Fund (IHF); eight businessmen agreed and each donated US$ 5 million and the target was achieved with the US$ 40 million by Bill Gates. 85% of the fund goes to Indonesia — with major focus to fight malaria, polio, TBC and HIV-AIDS, while 15% of the fund goes to the worldwide fund. What other not-for-profit projects are you part of? While IHF focuses on health, other charities that are close to our hearts are those related with education. The holding company has provided numerous scholarships to less fortunate students, mostly to students of state universities with the specification that they have good GPA and that they maintain their grades. You’re a bass player in a major band in Indonesia. How do you find the time to juggle between being CEO of Samali Hotels and playing gigs in your band? I love adversity. On weekdays we usually rehearse after work. Gigs are mostly done on weekends. However, should I need to leave the city to perform with Yovie Widianto, I always manage to maintain communication with my team. They can contact me anywhere, anytime.

What does it take to be a successful young person in Indonesia? Have you had to sacrifice anything to get where you are? To be successful you have to be brave to take risks, take each opportunity that comes and not be afraid to fail. And even if you fail or make mistakes, you must learn and earn more from that. Time has proven to be the most precious to me. And I have had to sacrifice a lot of time. Maintaining health is also crucial because once you get sick and have to lie in bed all day, you miss out on a lot of happenings. What are your ultimate goals and how do you plan to go about achieving them? I now have a big responsibility in our aim to build a large and reputable company, from real estate and hotels to the field of agriculture, IT, energy and others. A CEO also oversees the finance of all properties and it is our aim that every unit is able to support its own business. My father, as CEO of the holding company, is shaping me to one day replace him as CEO of the Holding Company (SGB). My personal goal is to get an MBA degree, which now I am pursuing in the United States. Building experiences and networking are two things, which cannot be bought. You have to keep learning from the best, while coaching other people of your knowledge and skills in order to keep improving yourself.

Thank you for your time! To contact Adrian, please e-mail: adrian@samalihotels.com

Indonesia is Top Expansion Destination for Malaysian SMEs By Borneo Post (www.theborneopost.com)

Indonesia is the top pick for Malaysian small and medium enterprises (SMEs) seeking to expand their businesses in Southeast Asia, said United Overseas Bank (Malaysia) Bhd (UOB Malaysia). The bank’s survey revealed that one in two respondents chose Indonesia over other Southeast Asian countries because of its strong domestic consumption, high economic growth rate and lower labour costs. UOB Malaysia chief executive officer Wong Kim Choong said Malaysian SMEs are keen to tap into the business opportunities that Indonesia offers and invest in the country’s growth potential. “Our SME customers with established operations in Indonesia are mostly from the chemicals and fertiliser, printing and packaging, and steel auto parts production sectors,” he said in a statement. Wong said UOB Malaysia had been receiving more enquiries from customers in the food processing sector due to Indonesia’s large domestic consumption base and increased spending on food by its rising middle class. The bank saw the number of its SME customers with a presence in Indonesia increase by 40 percent in 2013 compared with 2012.

issue 120 indonesia expat

GOLD RUSH

"Professional" miners therefore tend to speed up the process by using mercury to amalgamate the gold grains. And rather than scooping up the mud from the riverbanks they dig shafts, or break down alluvial deposits with high pressure water jets. This certainly has increased their productivity, but at a high environmental cost — downstream from the mining operation the river water is brown from the silt and highly toxic from the mercury. That is not only the problem faced by individuals on the micro-scale of a few dollars a day, but also on a mega-scale by large mining corporations such as Freeport Grasberg in the province of Papua, which is the largest gold mine in the world and the third largest copper mine. It consists of a large open pit mine and an underground mine. The former is visible from space as at the surface

There's Gold in them thar Hills By Hans Rooseboom

The western foothills of the volcano look rather desolate, consisting largely of dry shrubland with a few stunted trees. During the wet season some upland rice is grown, but the soils are eroded and poor. The few villages exude poverty, although many of their inhabitants are involved in small-scale gold mining. The mines are illegal as the required documents have not been obtained, let alone approval of an environmental assessment management plan. Makeshift shafts are dug by hand to haul up the alluvial mud and the lack of proper reinforcements makes them extremely dangerous. Mercury is subsequently used to amalgamate the grains and nuggets of gold in the mud. The miners are poorly compensated for their efforts—a very familiar pattern in small-scale gold mining—as most of the profits typically go to the organisers, investors, traders and suppliers of tools and other inputs. A classic worldwide problem. During the California gold rush (1848-1855) for instance, the San Francisco businessman Levi Strauss greatly profited from selling canvas for tents and denim overalls to miners; it is probably there that he developed ideas for the famous Levi's blue jeans. I had come to the area by accident on a Sunday outing when I had stupidly lost my way and had stumbled upon one of the mineshafts. A friendly old man pointed out the way to get back to the main road. But before I went on my way I had asked whether he worked in the mine. "Sometimes," he replied, "In the past every day. Now I'm too old. It's very hot and uncomfortable down there, and dangerous. Only last week my neighbour's mine collapsed, killing the two inside."

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"But is it worth it? Is there any gold in these hills?" "Oh yes, there is gold, enough to keep us busy. But its price has hardly increased for a long time. The trader always has a reason to charge more for transport and for the chemicals we need. There is not much else we can do here, so we have to accept it." And then he told me to wait as he wanted to show me a piece of gold he had found. It was a little nugget shaped like a small crown cork. If there is gold in these hills, there also should be some in the river! The following week, together with two mates we went to try our luck at gold panning. After two hours and no gold, just as we wanted to give up and enjoy a few fried bananas made by his wife, a little boy appeared with a beat-up wok. After a few swirls he shouted, "Grandfather, is this gold?" We all went over to have a look, and yes, there it was, a little nugget shaped like a small crown cork! Someone must have taught the old man how to raise an interest in and promote the operation, or maybe it was his own idea. When I went back with my mates we got lost again and never made it to the shaft. I thus never learned whether my brilliant advice had been put into effect. Obviously I cannot direct you to the place, as I can't even find it myself. It is to the west of Bogor township, north of the Mt. Halimun Salak National Park. Who knows, if you somehow manage to get there, the following simple instructions will help you with panning: 1 First, fill your pan nearly full of the sand and gravel. Remove the largest stones from the pan. 2 Place the pan under water and be sure that all the material gets wet. You may have to mix the contents of the pan with your hands.

“The miners are poorly compensated for their efforts— a very familiar pattern in smallscale gold mining—as most of the profits typically go to the organisers, investors, traders and suppliers of tools and other inputs.” 3 Quickly move the pan from side to side, either under water or while it is full of water, and rotate the pan's contents (but don't spill the contents). This action gives the gold particles a chance to settle to the bottom. 4 While continuing the side to side motion, gently tip the pan away from you. Lighter material and larger pieces that come to the top will move to the front of the pan. These can be skimmed or scraped over the brim of the pan with your thumb or hand. 5 Continue the motion described in steps 3 and 4, allowing water to wash lighter material over the brim until only a small amount of material remains in the pan. You'll need to add water to the pan. 6 The remaining heavy material is the concentrate. If you haven't yet seen gold in your pan, pour out excess water until enough is left to barely cover the concentrate. Swirl the pan contents to 'string out' or 'feather' the concentrate. Lighter particles will be washed farther than the heavier particles, leaving the gold (because it is the heaviest) in the 'tail' of the concentrate. 7 Continue swirling water in the pan to further clean the concentrates, being careful not to lose any gold. Recovering gold by panning takes practice!

its crater is more than a mile wide. And in spite of the very high investment costs—the mine is located between 2,500 and 4,000 metres above sea level, which requires complex technological problems to be solved — the mine is a low-cost operation. And as with the small scale [illegal] mining, the environmental effects are considerable. Some of the 230,000 tonnes of tailings that are generated each day wash into the Aikwa river affecting the lowland areas — no wonder the fish have nearly disappeared from the river. But Freeport states that its discharges meet regulatory requirements. Those in favour of the operation point out that the Grasberg mine has 19,500 employees and is the main tax payer in Indonesia (USD1.4 billion in 2009). It is interesting to note that the Grasberg production of around 60 tonnes is less than the estimated 65 to 100 tonnes produced in 2013 by Indonesia's 1,000,000 illegal miners in some 850 mining areas spread from Aceh in the west to Papua in the east. Whether these production volumes and the derived incomes justify the environmental and social costs does depend on one's point of view. But it is clear that the ones performing the hard and dangerous labour are compensated the least.

Quite a complicated and time-consuming process! Hans Rooseboom is a long term resident of Jakarta. He has visited nearly all of Indonesia's provinces and worked for many years in Ambon, Aceh, Manado and a number of smaller and larger towns on Java. He now enjoys a leisurely life, playing tennis most mornings and writing his blogs and other articles.

MEN & MOTORS

When there’s Torque of Bikes Words & Photos by Paul V. Walters

ate last year I was invited to attend a ‘motor show’ in Sanur, which I was told would be spectacular, that is of course, if you have a passion for classic cars or bikes. Well actually, I’m not that fond of either but it was a request from a friend so I felt compelled to go. For me, I merely like the thought of getting from A to B in air-conditioned comfort rather than having a love affair with the vehicle I am travelling in or on. The day was unusually hot and I reluctantly dragged myself away from the pool and arrived at what was a huge affair spread over several acres on a field next to the beach. It was a little like attending a country fair except this time the main attraction was an astonishing array of restored vintage motorcycles and classic cars. My friend Igor Blas, one of the organizers of the event was more than keen to show me around the exhibits provided we could actually weave our way through the thousands of attendees. A festive air prevailed with families escaping the heat sitting on picnic blankets eating ice creams while the kids raced madly through the throngs of arriving and departing visitors. I will admit that even I was impressed with the lines of lovingly restored Harley Davidsons, Indians, BSAs and Nortons on display, not to mention the vast array of classic cars from every decade of the last century. Apart from the European and American motorcycles, a vast collection of Japanese machines strutted their stuff next to their more exotic cousins. Restored Suzukis, Hondas and Yamahas perfectly brought back to their pristine original condition and presented as they were in the 50s and 60s. I have not exactly become a convert to what is obviously a serious hobby on the island, but I have to say I was intrigued by a whole industry that exists in putting these relics back on the road in absolute mint condition. There was a story to be told here.

“At 2pm everybody rises, dons their helmets and the entire place 'goes for a ride', whether you ride a lowly scooter or a thundering Harley Davidson.” I therefore decided to hunt down the clever types that actually take the time to scour the landscape for obscure parts and then spend months, and sometimes years rebuilding a bike from scratch. With the help of the trusty Igor I set off into the back lanes of Denpasar, Sanur and Kuta in search of the artists with greasy hands and grubby overalls. Seems that there are a few hundred on Bali and they do some of the finest restoration work in the world. In these backstreet garages there is genius at work, but where on earth does one find a carburetor for a 1942 BSA that is lying in pieces on the floor? “Sometimes we make them,” I was told by one enthusiast who looked no older than twelve, and make them they do. Pistons, cam-shafts and other bits and pieces that make up the bike’s engine are often manufactured from scratch or adapted from other machines whose parts are similar. There are no manuals here, rather it’s ingenious invention on the spot. These guys work from drawings downloaded from the Internet or passed on to them from other bike enthusiasts. I watched fascinated as a young ‘mechanic’ painstakingly recreated a speedometer for a Harley Davidson using bits of metal and pieces of tin, faithfully copying a photograph that he had taken on his phone of a bike he had seen on a rally. There is a thriving market for these restored beasts on Bali and now, having taken an interest, I see them whizzing around the country roads in convoy, which would make any enthusiast weep with the sheer pleasure of witnessing some of the finest bikes on the road anywhere in the world. Motorcycle clubs are in fact rather prolific and on weekends these bitumen warriors take to the highways and byways on all-day rides that sometimes take in a full circumference of Bali in a day. My trails eventually lead me to the appropriately named MANSHED in Sanur, which truly is an eye-opener. Basically, it is a huge shed, but a shed with a difference.

Genius has been at work here, for basically this giant space is actually a restaurant/bar, which is dedicated to the motorcycle and all things mechanical. The décor would make any man worth his salt feel right at home. Tables and chairs have been welded together from scooters to form an eclectic collection of cosy pods where diners can sit in comfort and admire the bikes on show. For anyone who loves motorcycles this place would be akin to dying and going to heaven! An upstairs gallery sports rows of Japanese motorcycles from the 50s and 60s, each one rescued, cleaned and rebuilt so that they look as if they never left their original showroom. The whole place feels as if it is after hours in a cavernous garage and the mechanics have packed their tools, slipped out of their overalls and retired to the bar for a cold beer. The clientele is as eclectic as the place itself and on the night I visited the place was packed with families, guys and girls in leathers proudly displaying their club colours and a host of business types propping up the bar. Igor tells me that on most Sundays at 12pm the place fills up with patrons who have come for an early lunch. At 2pm everybody rises, dons their helmets and the entire place “goes for a ride”, whether you ride a lowly scooter or a thundering Harley Davidson. The convoy sets off for a fun ride to Denpasar and beyond then heads back and tales are told while sitting on cushioned oil drums lit from overhead lamps cleverly fashioned from old helmets. The bar often is five or six deep, the conversation is rowdy, the camaraderie is palpable and, more importantly, the beer is ice cold. Once again this is Bali at its best, where innovation flourishes and genius abounds. What’s not to love?

The MANSHED is open 7 days a week, from 10am till late Jl. Tirtanadi No 9, Sanur, Bali

Paul V. Walters is a bestselling author of two novels, Final Diagnosis and Blowblack. He is temporarily living in Sanur while he completes the trilogy.

issue 120 indonesia expat

SPORTS

OneFC’s First Female Indonesian MMA Fighter By Gabriella Panjaitan

Desi Rahayu, a 164cm tall Indonesian athlete competed at the prestigious OneFC Era of Champions tournament on 14 June 2014 at the Mata Elang International Stadium, Jakarta. Being the first female Mixed Martial Arts (MMA) athlete from Indonesia to join a large international competition such as OneFC has Rahayu’s spirits boosted with pride. She is a fierce and determined warrior, hungry for a good fight. Desi has nourished her love of sporty endeavours since she was little. “I didn’t really have a lot of girl friends, I was friends with boys,” Desi said with a cheeky smile after her workout. She got into fights here and there when she was younger, but never anything too dangerous. “You know, kids fight over the smallest things,” she said. Desi joined a Judo association in 2005 and even competed at the 2008 National Games, representing Jakarta at the 48-kg class, for which she took home the silver medal. Not long after that, she took up other martial arts classes and joined Submission Grappling Indonesia in 2010 and the Tigershark Fighting Club in 2011. She’s had multiple trainings with emphasis on different techniques of martial arts that have shaped her into the warrior that she is today. Desi’s versatility allows her to deliver a combination move at her opponent so swiftly and full of precision - her strongest suit being her ground work, as Judo focuses on locking and throwing techniques - while also equipped with leg-locking manoeuvres from her Submission Grappling days. Now, she has earned the title of ‘professional fighter’ as she signed a two-year contract with OneFC, Asia’s biggest MMA club based in Singapore.

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“But, truth be told, I love it when boxing or MMA fighters get a bloody nose, it looks really cool.” MMA combines the movements of Judo, Jiu-jitsu and boxing and as Loren Mack, Director of Public Relations for OneFC said, “It is the closest thing to an actual fight on the street. Most fights end up on the ground, and MMA practices all techniques that pertain to an actual fight, from top to bottom.” Mack also added, “OneFC is bringing such a gripping match to Indonesian soil. This is a full-on Las Vegas style fighting match, attended by famous figures and is an esteemed event.” Although Desi was confident with her game, she stated that upon viewing videos of her OneFC opponent, Muay Thai champ Ella Tang from Malaysia, she felt the need to step up her upper body game and practice more boxing moves as it is Tang’s forte. Desi has never sparred with a female fighter before her OneFC debut. “My sparring partners have always been boys, including my boyfriend, Rehan,” Desi said while chuckling. The 23-year-old has expressed her interest to compete in Judo for the 2016 National Games. Between juggling trainings for the National Games and for the OneFC

tournament, Desi still finds the time to continue her education at STIE Buddhi in Tangerang, where she majors in Management. She is determined to make both her MMA career and her studies succeed simultaneously. Last year the Bogor native decided to wear a hijab. “It was a personal decision,” Desi stated. Although she has said that her hijab is empowering, she prefers not to use it during tournaments, as shifts in its position may affect her visibility or concentration. The confident fighter is ready to take on challenges, starting with her first appearance at OneFC: Era of Champions. “My target, first of all, is to attain no injuries, and of course to win. But, truth be told, I love it when boxing or MMA fighters get a bloody nose, it looks really cool,” said the tomboy athlete. When asked about the support of her family, Desi said that she even trains with her sister sometimes. “But my mum doesn’t know about my MMA fights. She knows about Judo, but not OneFC or MMA. She wouldn’t approve of it, and I’m afraid to tell her.” Desi Rahayu is a pioneer, the first of her kind to enter the MMA playing field in Indonesia. Her determination has her training every day of the week around her busy college schedules. The OneFC fight on June 14 was proof of her resilience and her dedication to the sport.

Kenneth Yeung is a Jakarta-based editor

To pay for this nonsensical treatment, Dirgantoro was told to buy a goat which would be sacrificed the following morning. He was shown a price list of Rp.5 million, Rp.25 million and Rp.50 million. He said Guntur warned that if he failed to immediately pay Rp.5 million, the black magic would spread to the couple’s son.

Ghostbuster Busted By Kenneth Yeung

Of all the silly programs on Indonesian TV, one of the most idiotic was Pemburu Hantu (Ghost Hunters), which involved a team of Muslim clerics pretending to catch ghosts in “haunted” houses. Although presented as reality TV, the entire show was fiction, designed to make viewers stupid, fearful and gullible. One member of this team of charlatans has been charged with fraud for running a fake health clinic. Muhammad Susilo Wibowo (32), who used the name Ustadz Guntur Bumi (ustadz is a title for a Muslim preacher), was detained on May 5, following complaints that he mistreated and abused patients at the clinic he operated in Pondok Indah, South Jakarta. Guntur claimed he could cure people of illnesses through prayer and touch. He would pretend to remove all sorts of things — needles, nails, pebbles, cockroaches, caterpillars and maggots — from patients’ bodies. Such sleight-of-hand magic is easy to perform, especially when patients are treated in a dark room and told to close their eyes. After 15 patients in March filed complaints dating back to 2011, Guntur refused to comply with police summonses for questioning. When eventually arrested, he claimed to be suffering from a stomach ache so he could not answer questions. During the success of Pemburu Hantu, which aired from 2004 to 2011 on Lativi (now tvOne after being bought in 2008 by Bakrie Group), Guntur began conducting mass healing sessions. He opened his first clinic in his hometown of Semarang, Central Java. After the show was cancelled, he opened clinics in Bandung, Jakarta and Bali. Business was profitable, enabling him to amass a collection of Harley Davidson motorcycles. He married former child singer Puput Melati, who has been questioned as a witness after some patients accused her of being an accomplice. One of the victims, Dirgantoro, said he took his wife to the clinic after seeing it advertised on TV. Upon arrival, he had to pay a registration fee of Rp.500,000. He said Guntur took them into a dark room, ordered them to close their eyes, recited some Koran verses and pretended to extract maggots from his wife’s head, claiming she was a victim of black magic.

Dirgantoro said his wife’s condition did not improve, so Guntur sent a team of four ghost hunters to his house. After examining the rooms, they claimed a pocong (shrouded corpse ghost) was present. The team pretended to trap the non-existent ghost in a bottle — a service that cost Dirgantoro another Rp.10 million. A 24-year-old woman said she went to Guntur for treatment of a thigh problem. He allegedly told her to undress and close her eyes, and then groped her. She was charged Rp.6 million and told to pay another Rp.7 million for a second session. Another former patient, Irfangi, urged the Indonesian Ulemas Association (MUI) — the country’s top Islamic authority — to withdraw its endorsement of the phony cleric. MUI said there was no heresy and it was upholding the presumption of innocence.

“Guntur claimed he could cure people of illnesses through prayer and touch. He would pretend to remove all sorts of things — needles, nails, pebbles, cockroaches, caterpillars and maggots — from patients’ bodies.” A man named Dody Rusmansyah, who had been unable to have any children with his wife, visited Guntur in the hope he could help the couple to conceive. Dody’s lawyer said Guntur told the couple they were afflicted by black magic and would have to pay him Rp.75 million to counter the magic. In the East Kalimantan city of Balikpapan, a former patient named Abdul Hakim accused Guntur of stealing 250 grams of gold jewellery during a treatment session at Abdul’s house in August 2012. He claims Puput was later seen wearing some of the jewellery. Police on June 6 extended Guntur’s detention, saying they were still gathering evidence against him. He had been trying to reach out-of-court settlements with his victims by returning their money. He also threatened to sue a woman who accused him of molesting her daughter. The biggest villain in this mess is the Communication and Information Ministry’s Directorate General of Radio, Television and Film. This government body strictly censors programs that it fears may offend Muslims, yet it allowed Pemburu Hantu to be screened for years — making a generation of viewers susceptible to the lies peddled by Guntur.

IN ENGLISH ONLY

FIRST TIME IN JAKARTA!

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Adimas (Danny) S. Soeryadjaya E-mail: soulcentreindonesia@yahoo.com

SoulCentre Jakarta is an official licensee of SoulCentre Pte Ltd | www.soulcentre.org issue 120 indonesia expat

WORTHY CAUSES

One Wave is All It Takes! Words by Polly Christensen Photos by Nick Geraldi

This is important news for Bali, where the practice of pasung (chaining people with schizophrenia) still exists. Although mental health issues can be seen as ‘god’s punishment’ in poorer communities, people can seek out professionals. Onewave is a non-profit surf community, founded by two young Australians in February 2013, to give people hope in order to beat ‘funks’ such as depression, anxiety and bipolar disorder. These funks affect so many people, but are talked about by so few. Onewave lets people know they are not alone and encourages them to get in the ocean. They use a simple recipe: salt water, surfing and good mates. Grant Trebilco and the Onewave community aim to share the stoke and peace of mind of the ocean, whether you’re surfing, body boarding, body surfing, stand up paddle boarding, the craft doesn’t matter. It’s all about getting salty with your mates. On Friday, 2nd May Onewave held two ‘Fluro Fridays’ in Bali. I caught up with Grant and crew during the morning session at Old Man’s, Canggu. “It was such an amazing turnout with 20 people catching fluro party waves in 2–3ft surf. By the end of the surf we had recruited 10 more people who wanted to be part of the crew. Passers-by stopped and asked what all the fluro was about, expecting it to be for a bucks party or something else. Once we told them it is about raising awareness for mental health, their faces lit up, and they wanted to be part of it. Finally it was normal to talk about mental health.” Trebilco had visited Bali five times on surf holidays before he was diagnosed with bipolar disorder. But this time, he wanted to raise awareness for mental health through surfing. Since he launched Onewave with Sam Schumacher, every Friday is ‘Fluro Friday’. Fluorescently-costumed surf gatherings commence 6.30am at Bondi and Manly beaches, in Sydney, with events also being held in Byron Bay, Newcastle, Snapper Rocks, Tathra, Victoria and Wanda. The brightest fluro/neon outfits are known to make people smile and by wearing them it encourages individuals to ask questions that usually avoid the subject of mental health. “Before we surfed at ‘Fluro Friday’ in Bali, I shared my story with everyone about how I had a manic episode at the Australian Open of Surfing because I was on the wrong medication. I stole a surf club paddleboard and paddled around the women’s semi-final, thinking I was raising money for Surf Aid. I was then handcuffed, taken to hospital and that’s how I found out I had bipolar. I’m just like everyone else, I have my ups and downs, but I

can experience higher highs and lower lows. And what balances me out is surfing.”

“IT IS SO IMPORTANT TO REMEMBER THAT JUST BECAUSE YOU LIVE SOMEWHERE THAT SEEMS LIKE PARADISE, IT DOESN’T MEAN YOU ARE IMMUNE TO GOING THROUGH A SERIOUS FUNK.” Grant had suffered from anxiety and depression for years but didn’t tell anyone. When he ended up in hospital and was diagnosed with bipolar disorder he accepted there was a mental health issue. It was moving back to New Zealand with his parents and surfing every day with his dad (who also has bipolar disorder) that pulled Grant out of the lowest low. One good wave would produce a smile and real hope that things could get better for him. When Grant told his mates in the surf that he had been properly diagnosed, it was a great relief, as he could speak freely about life. “We noticed that people spoke about mental health quite openly at the ‘Fluro Friday’ events in Bali. It is so important to remember that just because you live somewhere that seems like paradise, it doesn’t mean you are immune to going through a serious funk. From the outside, people who live in Bali can appear to have the dream life, but in reality they can be struggling on the inside.” Getting the correct diagnosis is paramount, and according to Indonesian Psychiatrist Robert Reverger, MD there has been an improvement in the nation’s mental health care over the past few years. In December 2013 President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono launched the government’s new health insurance scheme, the first step toward its target of covering all Indonesians by 2019. The president said the government has a “moral obligation” to help the poor get access to health services, which he argued the BPJS Kesehatan would provide.

“There are 26 practicing psychiatrists in Bali for people to obtain a correct diagnosis. Bangli Hospital (40 minutes north of Denpasar) specializes in mental health, Sanglah Hospital admits acute cases into ER and the Siloam Hospital sees private patients. The basic level of BPJS insurance allows its members to access free medication, including injectables that would otherwise cost Rp.1 million.” When communities refrain from discussing mental health issues, people decide it is not normal so suffer from issues like depression, anxiety and bipolar disorder. 45% of Australians will suffer from a mental health issue during their life, so we need to start finding ways to beat the stigma. The Onewave surfing community has a positive impact on people’s lives. If anyone wants to talk about the funk they are in, they will find accepting people at Onewave ready to listen and to have fun. “It would be unreal if the Fluro Fridays kept going in Bali. If people don’t know how to surf we can teach them or take them for a swim. If they don’t want to get in the water, they can hang out on the beach, watch the surfing and take photos.” Bali is so lucky to have a community of legends, such as Tai Graham and Nathan Johnson who are as passionate about kicking the stigma of mental health as they are about preserving the ocean and surfing epic waves. At the end of the day everyone has either been in a funk or knows someone who has. We can show our support by letting people know ‘It’s okay not to be okay’. Onewave is all it takes! For more information please visit the website at: www.onewaveisallittakes.com Contact Grant at: grant@onewaveisallittakes.com

British-born Polly Christensen is a documentary film maker, features writer and environmentalist. She can be contacted at www.madefromstardust.com

DUA TA NGA N CUKUP — ACT IONS F ROM ACROS S T HE A RCHIPEL AGO

Clean Up Jakarta Day 2014 As you may be aware, the second annual Clean Up Jakarta Day is around the corner and will take place on October 19th this year. Jakarta’s citizens will be carrying out the Indonesian tradition of gotong royong by picking up rubbish and cleaning up Jakarta together in an attempt to educate people about the detrimental effects of littering, and in turn spark an awareness of the importance of recycling. Clean Up Jakarta Day is an annual event, which is supported by the city’s clean movement ‘Aksi Jakarta Bersih’, with Ambassadors Slank also joining the cleanup on October 19th. Acting Governor Ahok and Slank’s support is making Clean Up Jakarta Day a highly anticipated event.

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This campaign will be carried out by volunteers, of which there will be an anticipated 3,000 – 4,000 this year, picking up rubbish and separating into recyclable and non-recyclable sacks as they clean. Volunteers range from individuals to schools and businesses. All clean-up activities will commence at 7am at multiple sites throughout the city. These sites are nominated by volunteers and approved by the Clean Up Jakarta Day team. Rubbish on the day will be separated into bags of recyclable and non-recyclable material, and the recyclables will be taken by Santa Fe Relocators to Jakarta Green Project in East Jakarta. The Jakarta Green Project is a recycling collection scheme set up by street children foundation, KDM, offering a solution to Jakarta’s waste problem, while benefiting its work in supporting the development of street children into independent, educated and skilled young adults.

What are you waiting for? Get involved to raise awareness about keeping the capital clean! To volunteer and for more information, please visit www.cleanupjakartaday.org or e-mail cleanupjktday@indonesiaexpat.biz

LIGHT ENTERTAINMENT

A Really Scary Thing

* Answers in the next edition!

FOR THE MACET MIND

By Eamonn Sadler (www.eamonnsadler.com)

In 1995 I was the tour promoter for the Philippines leg of the Asian tour of the British band The Real Thing. In the 70s they were famous for one major hit called You to me are everything and a few lesser hits, but You to me was big enough to carry them through Asia on a reunion tour that took in ten cities. The venues could not be huge but there was money to be made because they were nowhere near as expensive as they would have been 20 years earlier. I set the gig up at a small venue in the centre of the city on the end of Makati Avenue and went to work selling tickets. The response was good and we were almost sold out on the day of the show so I was quite confident we would be full by the time the evening came. T he band were arriving the day of the show from Singapore and timing was tight but with a fair wind and a bit of luck with the Manila traffic they would arrive with time to spare for the sound check, a snooze and a quick beer before the show started at 9pm. At 5pm I was pacing the floor suffering minor chest pains and wondering where the hell they were. There were no mobile phones around to provide blow by blow accounts of their progress. At 6pm the band arrived and I was relieved to see Chris and Eddy Amoo get out of the car, but they didn’t look at all happy. Eddy spoke, “We’ve lost a guitarist mate.” (Yes, they are British.) I looked at him in bewilderment. How can you lose a guitarist?

guitarist could not fill in no matter how good they were. It was back to springing the guitarist out of the airport. I found a phone in the venue office and started calling friends to see if anybody knew a senior immigration officer. After a couple of calls I found out that an American friend of mine knew somebody. He said he would call him and call me back. Twenty long minutes later the phone rang and I snatched the receiver from its base. His contact could help us out but he wanted a thousand dollars to make it happen and ten free seats at the show. With no other options I agreed and I left it with him to sort out while I got the rest of the band on stage for a sound check. (I was lucky enough to sing You to me are everything with them at that sound check — my minor claim to fame!) We set up the guitarist’s gear (except his guitar which he was carrying) and hoped for the best. At ten minutes to nine the venue was full and I was frantic. There was no sign of the guitarist and no word from my friend the fixer. Chris and Eddy Amoo are lovely guys but they were starting to get a little nervous. We could delay the show for 20 minutes maximum or maybe stretch it to 30 minutes but it would be pushing it — this was a Wednesday night and people had work in the morning. At ten minutes past nine the doors sprang open and the guitarist came bustling through the door with an escort of tem immigration officers and two policemen. We rushed him to the stage where the rest of the band was waiting and plugged him in, then the drummer shouted, “One, two, three, four!” and the band burst into their biggest hit without a hitch and without missing a beat. Real pros. Nobody in the audience was any the wiser. I downed a long cold beer in one gulp and enjoyed a great show by one of my favourite childhood bands.

It turned out that the guitarist had arrived with five months and 28 days validity on his passport and the Philippines immigration regulations required six months after the date of arrival. Somebody was looking for a bonus. I cursed for a solid five minutes and considered all the obvious possible solutions but they couldn’t play without him, they had The show must always go on! no backing track they could use and a local

To read more by Eamonn Sadler, go to www.eamonnsadler.com to find out more about live Stand-Up Comedy in Indonesia please e-mail info@jakartacomedyclub.com text or call 0821 1194 3084 or register at www.jakartacomedyclub.com

ACROSS

DOWN

5. Legal process of removal from office (11)

1. Frank (4)

7. Symbol on computer screen (4)

2. Wrapping for wound (7)

8. Month (8)

3. Unpleasant surprise (5)

9. Ban (7)

4. End point of circuit (8)

11. Join together (5)

5. Lacking in necessary skills (11)

13. Open land with acid soil (5)

6. Number, a cube (6-5)

14. Short curved sword (7)

10. Type of well (8)

16. Relating to the time of year (8)

12. Steer (7)

17. It may be permanent or Mexican (4)

15. Grind (one's teeth) (5)

18. Piece of business (11)

17. Parliamentary disciplinarian (4)

Answers of issue 119 ACROSS — 1. Mother Hubbard 8. Lax 9. Dominican 10. Reminder 11. Amos 13. Musket 14. Botany 16. Loaf 17. Courtier 20. Sailboard 21. Ebb 22. Pigeon-chested DOWN — 1. Molar 2. Text messaging 3. Endanger 4. Hamlet 5. Bunk 6. Accompaniment 7. Dynasty 12. Porridge 13. Milksop 15. Mosaic 18. Rabid 19. Ebro

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issue 120 indonesia expat

ANNOUNCEMENTS

Mazars changes its name into Moores Rowland

The Escape Hunt Experience now open in Jakarta JAKARTA The Escape Hunt Experience is a unique adventure based on the classic ‘escape the room’ game now popular in many countries around the world. Players are locked in a simple room with objects and little decorations and feel like being inside a computer game while searching for clues and solving puzzles trying to escape and crack the case.

JAKARTA Mazars is now re-branded and takes a new name, Moores Rowland. Although the financial advisory firm changes its name, the organization and key staff remains very much the same, as do the addresses and telephone numbers of both their Jakarta and Bali offices. However, all email addresses will now, by default, have the suffix: @mooresrowland.com. Moores Rowland will not change in their dedication to build stronger relations with their clients and the community as a whole. Being a member of Praxity, Moores Rowland is able to tailor innovative solutions to meet their clients’ needs while still obtaining global linkages under the Praxity banner.

CIMB Niaga to launch Facebook banking ACROSS THE ARCHIPELAGO CIMB Niaga bank will launch a Facebook banking service for its customers in the third quarter of this year. The new service will allow customers to transfer money between Facebook friends and is one of the many services the bank is developing to build branchless banking. Last year CIMB Niaga launched the country’s first mobile wallet, Rekening Ponsel, which enabled customers to send money on their mobile phones. The bank continues to be innovators in the digital banking world of Indonesia.

Pullman Jakarta Indonesia’s Sana Sini Restaurant welcomes Michelin Star chef

“We brought this game to Jakarta as a new alternative of exciting indoor entertainment for Jakarta residents, including expatriates based on spectacular positive feedback from the tourists who played the game in Bangkok. This has made The Escape Hunt Experience voted as the number 1 attraction in Bangkok by TripAdvisor,” said Wito Krisnahadi, the owner of the franchise of The Escape Hunt Experience Jakarta. “Everyone should come and play The Escape Hunt Experience and feel the sensation. The main highlight of the game is not only for fun but also to reiterate the importance of teamwork, problem solving, time management as well as creative thinking,” said Wito.

JAKARTA Pullman Jakarta Indonesia will welcome esteemed Chef Jarad Gallagher from Michelin Starred Chez TJ in California from June 17th to 22nd 2014 at Sana Sini Restaurant. Chez TJ restaurant is one of the few elite restaurants in the United States that has been Michelin star-rated and even more impressively has been so for the past consecutive eight years. Now its young and dynamic head chef, Jarad Gallagher, is coming to visit Jakarta to cook in the unique open kitchens of Sana Sini Restaurant at Pullman Jakarta Indonesia.

Chef Jarad is creating a three to six course lunch and dinner menu for Jakarta diners from the 17th to the 22nd of June at Pullman Jakarta Indonesia’s Sana Sini Restaurant. When asked what diners can look forward to, Jarad says, “This is my first visit so I have no preconceived notions of how or what foods should be cooked.” He says this open minded approach will allow him “to transform foods in unconventional ways and offer a dining experience that is unique and adventurous.”

Discover the lost temples of East Java The Hindu temples at Penataran are the largest intact Majapahit temples, and the finest examples of East Javanese architecture and sculpture. These temples are inherited from the Majapahit kingdom’s golden period, during the governance of King Hayam Wuruk, and are located on the lower slopes of Mount Kelud, around twenty kilometres north of Blitar.

Indonesia’s first all-English TV channel launches for the world to see ACROSS THE ARCHIPELAGO The Indonesia Channel (TIC) is a general entertainment channel designed for global distribution, broadcasting 24 hours a day in English and was launched on June 2nd, 2014. The channel is headed by CEO Dalton Tanonaka, formerly of CNN and Metro TV, and boasts programming including talk, news, business, fashion, sports, and music. The Indonesia Channel is a privately funded operation with a team of international broadcast professionals. UPC Nederland announced it will carry the new channel from June onwards and more distribution deals are under way, according to the channel. Other countries where TIC will be available include Russia, Korea, Hong Kong, and Singapore. The show can be found on Hong Kong's NOW TV (channel 521), Indonesia's First Media (channel 32) and Big TV (channel 683). Viewers can also download The Indonesia Channel App on iTunes or the Google Play Store. 24

indonesia expat issue 120

BLITAR, EAST JAVA Hotel Tugu Blitar invites you to discover the real, unspoiled East Java with a visit to Blitar, where most of the remains of the Majapahit Kingdom still stand timeless, including the largest and most beautiful Hindu temple complex in East Java, Candi Penataran.

Hotel Tugu Blitar invite you to bring the experience to another height. Reserve the private sunset dinner by the Penataran Temple and find yourself transported into another world with the charm of ancient beauty. Rp.1,750,000++/couple including house wine, free flow mineral water and traditional performance. The price is valid until 31 March 2015.

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issue 120 indonesia expat

EVENTS If you want your event to be posted here, please contact (+62) 0 21 7179 4550 or e-mail: events@indonesiaexpat.biz

JAKARTA

scenic Lake Jatiluhur on 3-5 July 2014. The fee is Rp.6,150,000 for Group Kilimanjaro and Rp. 4,000,000 for Group Cartenz. Call (021) 548-1529 for more information or e-mail: info@ outwardboundindo.org. Website : www.outwardboundindo.org

Conference

IFRA 2014 20–22 June 2014 The International Franchise, License & Business Concept Expo & Conference (IFRA) will be one of the biggest networking events in Indonesia, allowing exhibitors and visitors to discuss ideas to cater to new markets and opportunities. This franchise trade-show will take place at the Jakarta Convention Centre (JCC) in the Main Lobby, Plenary Hall and Cendrawasih Hall from 10am to 9pm daily. For more information, call (021) 3199-6167, 0817 0169-797 or email info@ debindodyantama.com. JCC is located on Jl. Gatot Subroto. www.debindodyantama.com Networking

Arts

musical pieces from Carmen, Tura ndot a nd L a Trav iat a . Vocalists such as Cecilia Yap (soprano) and Noel A zcona (baritone) will perform, as well as Eunice Tong Holden and Rebecca Tong as conductors. Music is provided by the Jakarta Oratorio Society and Jakarta Simfonia Orchestra . Ticket price ranges from Rp.100,000 (for students 8-21 years old) to Rp.1,000,000. Call (021) 65867808, 08777 100-2009 or email boxoffice@aulasimfoniajakarta. com for tickets. Aula Simfonia is located on Jl. Industri Raya Blok B 14 Kav. 1, Kemayoran, North Jakarta. Website: www. aulasimfoniajakarta.com

4th Annual INA Herring Fest 25 June 2014 Star ting at 7pm to 9. 30pm, INA (Indonesian Netherlands Association) will hold a nautical themed party to celebrate the coming of the Herring season. Other than having a taste of the Herring tradition, guests are able to enjoy traditional Dutch food and have a chance to network. The venue will be available upon confirmation of attendance. Members may enter with a Rp.350,000 fee and nonmembers for Rp.450,000. RSVP by calling Shinta on (021) 52902177 or e-mail: marketing@ina. or.id. Website: www.ina.or.id

Christian Bautista ‘The Way You Look at Me’ Concert 23 June 2014 The Filipino vocal artist will present a concert at Prive FX mall Sudirman, starting at 7pm. Tickets range from Rp.495,000 for Festival section, Rp.2,200,000 for V IP a nd R p. 2 ,750,0 0 0 for V V IP section. For more information, call 0812 3400-1361 or e-mail info@rigeldinamika. com. Tickets can be purchased also from www.rajakarcis.com. FX mall is located on Jl. Pintu Satu Senayan, South Jakarta.

is titled ‘Urbanism in 20x20x20’. The exhibition is open for public from 7 June to 7 July 2014 from 10am to 5pm. Urbane gallery is located on Jl. Cigadung Raya Barat No. 5, Bandung.

BALI Health

Haute & Heart Exhibition 26 June–31 July 2014 Haute & Heart is an exhibition celebrating the beaut y of jewellery, bags and accessories. The exhibition will be housed at the Mini Galler y at Tug u Kunstkring Paleis (first f loor). Various designers’ artwork will be exhibited, from Heliopolis Accessories with its Swarovski bags and semi-precious stones, to Manjusha Nusantara’s Indonesian replicas of ancient jeweller y, and even Anteak Pratama with its handmade jeweller y from Tibet. The gallery opens from 11am to 11pm every day of the exhibition, at Jl. Teuku Umar No.1, Central Jakarta. For more details, call (021) 390-0899 or e-mail: thegallerykunstkring@ tuguhotels.com. Website: www. tuguhotels.com Shopping

Younger Next Year Asia Summit 27 June 2014 The health and fitness scene of Bali will be graced by the presence of a massive lineup of well-known speakers specializing in nutrition, body and mind fitness, anti-aging therapies and future-proofing the brain, all packaged into one summit titled ‘Younger Next Year’. This full-day summit’s entrance fee of $349 includes wellness seminars, morning tea, a healthy lunch, entertainment, goodie bags and cocktails. Younger Next Year Asia will be held at the Pan Pacific Nirwana Bali, Jl. Raya Tanah Lot, Tabanan, Bali. For more information and to register, call 0813 3832 5637 or email kerry@ youngernextyearasia.com. www.youngernextyearasia.com Arts

Family Festival Jakarta Great Sale

Canada Day Picnic 2014 21 June 2014 To commemorate Canada Day, the ICCC is hosting a charity picnic. Fete du Canada will be held from 11.30am to 3pm and the venue will be confirmed upon registration. An entrance fee of Rp.50,000 will be collected and that includes one free raffle ticket, free food and beverages. Kids can enter for free. Proceeds from the event will benefit the kids at the Red Nose Foundation. Guests are encouraged to wear red & white as dress code. To RSVP, call (021) 5277-890 or e-mail: secretariat@ iccc.or.id. Website: www.iccc.or.id Music An Evening at the Opera at Aula Simfonia Jakarta 21 June 2014 An Evening at the Opera at Aula Simfonia Jakarta, will feature

indonesia expat issue 120

Summer Adventure and Self-Discovery Camp for Teenagers 30 June – 5 July 2014 O ut wa rd Bou nd Indone sia facilitates a trip for youngsters to the great outdoors, in order to escape the city and get in touch with nature, with two categories: Group Kilimanjaro (15-18 years old) will have a 6-day mountain and sailing expedition around Lake Jatiluhur from 30 June-5 July 2014, while Group Cartenz (11-14 years old) consists of a 3-day explorational learning through nature and arts in the

7 June–19 July 2014 This month-long shopping deal is valid throughout Jakar ta , participating malls include FX, Gandaria City, Pacif ic Place, Pond ok I nd a h M a l l , Pl a z a Indonesia and Plaza Senayan, among many others (for a full list, refer to www.jakarta-greatsale.com). A city-wide spread, the Festival Jakarta Great Sale has been around since the 1980s to attract domestic tourists and to encourage locals to shop within the country. To know more about the promotions in each store, visit the participating malls or call (021) 2553-5002 and e-mail secretariat.fjgs@yahoo.co.id. www.jakarta-great-sale.com

BANDUNG Arts Urbane Decade 7 June–7 July 2014 The new Urbane gallery will mark its opening with an instagram photo exhibition. The exhibition

Bali Arts Festival 14 June–14 July 2014 The Bali Arts Festival will open with a performance by students of the Indonesian Arts Insitute Denpasar. The festival will come to the Werdi Budaya Arts Centre, Jl. Nusa Indah, East Denpasar a nd w i l l s howc a s e n ig ht l y performances of traditional and contemporary dances and music. During the day, the handicraft and food stalls open, highlighting cuisines unique to the different regencies of Bali. The month-long festivity is happily showcasing the International Ramayana Festival, with participants from all over the world. For more details, e-mail info@baliartsfestival.com or visit www.baliartsfestival.com Perspective by Michael Jonsey : Photography Exhibition 24 April–31 December 2014 Bridges Bali Restaurant exhibits a collection of black and white

photographs by British artist Michael Jonsey. The beautiful photographs show glimpses of Balinese daily life; recorded and captured by the artist that has been living in Bali since a long time. The photographs are not just technically correct; it also has soul, tells a stor y and reveals personality. The proceeds of the exhibition will be donated to safe Childhoods Foundation (www.safechilhoods. org); an organization to combat crime againts children which also has developed a range of projects designed to protect and support some of the most v ulnerable, traumatized and at-r isk children.L ocation at Bridges Bali Restaurant Jl.Raya Tjampuhan, Ubud Party

Townhouse Bali Parties 5 July 2014 Townhouse Bali presents a whole lineup for the upcoming month of July. On the 5th, New York’s Danny Krivit will be spinning the tracks. Throughout the month of July, Townhouse Bali will have more DJs every weekend, such as Hugo Marti on July 11th, The Townhouse Summer Party with Gypsy on the 18th, and Super Flu on July 23rd. Check out the rest of the list of upcoming acts by contacting Townhouse Bali on info@thetownhousebali.com. Townhouse Bali is located on Jl. Laksamana 151, Seminyak. www.thetownhousebali.com

SOLO Bazaar

Hello Market Solo — Mexicoland 20–22 June 2014 Especially for those who love

the fa shion industr y, Hello Market Solo is a festival full of festivity and the arts. Themed ‘Mexicoland’, this 3rd instalment of Hello Market Solo features a f lea market setting and a bazaar. There w ill be music performances, a fashion show as well as food & beverages. This event will take place at the Solo Center Point, Jl. Brigjen Slamet Riyadi 371-373, Purwosari, Solo. The festival is open from 10am to 9pm. Proceeds from Hello Market Solo will support a charity and to help build a local elementary school. For more information, call 0857 020-21210 or visit www. hellomarketsolo.com. Festival

Solo Batik Carnival 2014 22 June 2014 The seventh annual Solo Batik Carnival adopts the theme ‘the Majestic Treasure’, highlighting the beauty and vibrant motif of batik. The exquisite batik creations will be showcased in a runway show, starting at 3pm. The carnival festivity will walk from the R. Maladi Stadium, to Jalan Slamet Riyadi, passing through Gladag and Jalan Jendral Sudirman and the end point will be at the city hall. To get more information on the carnival, call the organizers on (0271) 2610077.

ABROAD Photography

Sri Lanka Photography Tour 4–15 August 2014 David Metcalf is offering you a chance for an odyssey you don’t want to miss; a photography tour to Sri Lanka. Amidst the architecture ruins, w ildlife, b e a u t i f u l t e a pl a n t a t i o n s , colourful ceremonies, rainforests and mountain peaks, you can capture some of the greatest images of your lifetime. ‘Sri Lanka — The Undiscovered Country’ w ill be g uided by sea soned photographers, David Metcalf and Mark Rayner. Photog raphers w ill star t in Colombo with vibrant street photography to Balipitya with its extensive birdlife, then to Koggara where fishermen balance themselves on stilts with the sunset on the background. To join this photography tour, send an e-mail to davidmetcalf3@ mac.com or visit website: www. davidmetcalfphotography.com

HUMOROUS OBSERVATION

Joe Writeson is from the UK, resident in Indonesia for eighteen years. Previously in oil and gas until forced to retire due to chronic Osteoporosis, citing being paraplegic as "a new challenge requiring new ways of looking at things". Full time author with three books available. joewritesonasia@gmail.com

HELLO, STATUE? By Joe Writeson

I was working long-term on a construction project in East Java and it suited my purposes and circumstances to rent a house off the company accommodation camp. I had already heard some bad reports regarding aggravation with some religious fanatics in the area, so I leased a house from a local police officer, assuming correctly as it turned out - that this would afford some degree of protection.

“No, Mr. Joe, you look very clever.” “Then why am I being addressed like an idiot?” “Well Mr. Joe it seems you have not paid...” “Don't answer, it was a rhetorical question.” “But if you don't want me to answer then why did...” “It was a question I did not need a response to, OK.” “Ah OK. Then why did you ask...?” “Please, please let's not go there.”

The rented house was huge and required a few improvements including an upgrade in the electricity supply, plus running in of a telephone landline for dialup internet services, extremely slow and ponderous by today's standards, but the dog's testicles at the time. I got some of my lads in off the project to redecorate the house from top to bottom and of course, unsupervised, they painted from bottom to top. Skirting boards first, walls second and ceilings last, then spending the next few days scrubbing off paint drips and cleaning floor tiles.

Ngroho looked perplexed.

The upgrade was complete and rounded off with the installation of a huge satellite parabola, decoding system, DVD, speakers and state of the art TV.

“OK if you say so, but…” “Mr. Ngroho?”

The clerk had followed this exchange Wimbledon spectator-like and seemed slightly disappointed it was over. “Let's focus on finding a solution shall we?” “Ohhh kay, the bill has been approximately USD30 every month so far, so how about I pay double that and cover the bill and also have some credit in hand?” This suggestion required the Regional Manager's input to make a decision; he was summoned from his office at the rear of the building. He arrived all bustle and full of importance then promptly entered into a long and protracted debate with the clerk and Ngroho. After some fifteen minutes he addressed me.

This needed sorting out, and quickly, so I grabbed my admin/translator/wingman, Mr. Ngroho and headed for the Telkom Office.

I counted to ten then did it again, then again.

“My telephone line is dead.” Highly efficient clerk checks computer. “You have not paid your bill.” “I have not received a bill.” “Yes, billing computer broken.” “So, why have you cut off my telephone?” “You have not paid your bill.” “How can I pay the bill if you have not sent it out?” “Computer broken.” “Yes, we've established that, so how can I pay the bill, what is the amount due?” “Don't know, computer broken.” “Look this is not my problem, it's your equipment that is not functioning correctly and I need to get my telephone back online.” “You have not paid your bill.” “I have not paid my bill because YOU can't send me one.” “Computer broken.” “Mr. Ngroho, do I look like an idiot?”

Everyone smiled with satisfaction, pleased that now the penny had finally dropped for this dopey foreigner. A wave of resignation swept over me, I could not win, and even a draw was out of the question. I could not even dream about beating the system. It was time to swim downstream instead of up.

He shook his head, but stayed silent.

Everything was working as it should for the first three months, then the telephone, and therefore the fledgling internet, went dead without warning; no signal, no ringtone, no incoming or outgoing calls, deader than something which was, well, very dead. I got my wife to call in from her office and report a line fault. No, there was no line fault, the line was OK. “Is billing problem,” I was informed.

This is how the conversation went:

“I have just PAID the bill, and more!” “No, you have paid credit. The original bill must be produced.” “But I can't produce the original bill because you can't send it because your computer is broken.” “Ahhh yes, now you understand.”

“You have not paid your bill.”

“OK, OK, you win, guys. Please tell me when will your computer system be fixed?” An engineer was now required to answer this question. He was called from his workshop in the yard, and he consulted the manager, his cell phone and his diary before responding. “Maybe tomorrow or maybe next week.” “So, I will have no phone line until then?” I answered dejectedly. The engineer's face lit up. “You want phone line?” “Well, that was the general idea.” “You want phone line now?” “Mr. Ngroho, are we doing the idiot thing again? No, don't answer.” The Manager grinned.

“Mr. Ngroho, please explain my predicament and proposal to this gentleman.” “Ahh is this rhetorical, Mr. Joe?” “No, Mr. Ngroho, in this particular instance I would like an answer.” Further discussions took place with the manager speaking at length with Ngroho. Eventually they both smiled at me. “He says yes.” “Then how come it took, wait, forget it, here's the money.” It was counted carefully, then again and on the third count I went for a walk looking for a wall to punch. When I returned the beaming manager presented me with a hand-written receipt. “OK, thank you, when will my phone be reconnected please?” “Cannot, you have not paid your bill.”

“My engineer fix for you.” “Yes sir, can do, install new line one hour USD20.” “But what about the other line?” “You no pay your bill,” prompted the manager just in case I had forgotten. “But let me get this straight. I can have a second line connected and working in an hour?” “For USD20, yes.” “I just pay you cash now?” “Yes, boss.” “Then please, please just go ahead and do it.” I handed over the cash and left quickly, I needed to get out and into the fresh air. As I left, the manager called after me. “Hey Mister, you no forget to pay new phone bill heh heh heh.” He survived, but only just….

Ngroho was fastest to react and stepped between us.

issue 120 indonesia expat

HAVE SOMETHING TO SELL? Looking for something to buy? Looking for staff? Selling property? Or need a place to live? Why not place your classified ad with Indonesia Expat! Your classified will be placed once for 2 weeks online and once in our printed version which has a circulation of 15,500 copies bi-weekly. Next deadline: 24 June

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JAKARTA AUTOMOTIVE FOR SALE — JUST LIKE NEW: Toyota Avanza Veloz, Automatic transmission,September 2013 Registration, 8 seater , Silver C olor, L e s s t h a n 3 0 0 k m , Upgraded leather seats, tinted windows,Excellent condition. Only IDR Rp 175,000,000 — SMS: 08119401418 We a r e mov i ng out (end of contract) of Jakarta soon and would like to sell our Toyota Fortuner 2013, diesel with good price. Call me at: 08111-55-8590 for further details. JOBS

from the ages 17 to 19. We have recently started selling our products in Indonesia. The proceeds benef it the further development of the ‘Ffrash’ young adults, production, and training. Remaining revenues will be put aside to finance the start-up costs of their own enterprise in the near future. The higher the sales, the more will be saved for the ‘Ffrash’ artisans for their future plans and the more street children will be able to join the project. Therefore, we are currently looking for a Sales Volunteer for Jakarta. For more information, please contact Gina Provó Kluit at 0811-9107399 or gina@ffrash. com. For more information about ‘Ffrash’, please visit our website www.ffrash.com Looking for work

Jobs available Indonesia Expat is recruiting! Indonesia Expat is looking for a Graphic Designer (local) to join our team under the supervision of our Head Designer. The Ideal candidate should have two years experience in magazine design and layout, w ith experience in creative a dver tisement creation. Please send CV with prev ious work ex a mple s t o info@indonesiaexpat.biz Only successful candidates will be contacted for interview. Good luck! Photoshop Assistant required We seek a talented, creative assistant on occasional weekends to help with the Photoshop aspects of our Visual Art projects. This person needs good English and advanced Photoshop knowledge. If this sounds like you, be in contact! E-mail: terese_storey@ yahoo.co.nz Want to volunteer with a young social enterprise? At ‘Ffrash’ we offer a challenging volunteering opportunity for a target-driven, experienced sales professional (f lexible hours, 3 days a week). ‘Ffrash’ is a recently introduced interior design brand, with a social and sustainable character. ‘Ffrash’ produces high-quality sustainable design furniture and home interior products from Indonesian trash. The products are designed on a pro bono basis by internationally renowned Dutch designers and created by former Indonesian street children

indonesia expat issue 120

I am Indonesian born American professional with over 15 years of enterprise experience providing proactive leadership to deliver business and technology growth in various industries including technology, transportation and healthcare. I have extensive experience managing complex and mission critical projects and have developed industry specific best practice project management strategies to preserve the integrity and stability of the information i n a mat r i x orga n i zat iona l structure. I am comfortable leading cross-functional teams whi le c om mu n ic at ing w it h stakeholders. I hold MBA and MSc degree along with Project Management Professional (PMP) and Certif ied Scrum Master (CSM) certificate. www.linkedin. com/in/kresnanto/ kresnanto@hotmail.com My name is Hegki Hikmawan, 27, I live in Cipete, South Jakarta. I’m looking for a job as daily driver, if you have information, please call to my phone 085777705616. Thank you very much. My name is Tia and I am looking for a job as nanny or cleaning and cooking help in Jakarta area. Please call me on hp 08179855128 SERVICES Hello, I am Herry professional greeting service at Soekarno Hatta airport Jakarta. Need Fast Track Immigration upon arrival and departure including check in assistance and porterage e t c . , pl e a s e c ont a c t me a t

081317927009, 087808522300, pin 7a4da199. Thanks. Hi… I am a male singer. can sing any kind of songs. I usually sing on parties,such as wedding or birthday party.i'd love to if there is any chance for me to be join any kind of band.email me at mjazzmark@gmail.com Bahasa Indonesia lesson for expats at your house or office, given by experienced instructor. Letter of recommendation available. Please call pak Chairuman 0812 1037 466 or email: chairuman2013@ yahoo.co.id Spanish Tutor — Learn Spanish at your place with a DELE Certified Examiner from Spain. Most of my students come from International Schools (JIS and BIS). Please call me (Raúl) +6282110502786 Email: unascartas@yahoo.com L I V E I N T ER NAT IONA L S TA N D -U P C OM E DY I N INDONESIA. Jakarta and Bali Comedy Clubs bring international comedians to Jakarta and Bali every month for LIVE shows. If you would like to join the club in Jakarta or Bali please text your name and email address to 0821 1194 3084 or send your name and mobile number by email to info@ jakartacomedyclub.com and tell us which club you would like to join. We will do the rest!

Accounting,Bussiness, English, Chinese, French, Bahasa Indonesia, etc. For Primar y, Secondary (IGCSE/MYP), Senior High, IB (SL/HL), A/AS Level, SAT and also for students who want to apply for SIMAK UI. - Tutor comes to your house - Tutorial is explained in English - We make sure we match you with the right tutor Promo May & June 2014 : Free of Registration Fee (Save up to Rp 500.000,-). Discrete Private G D C , M e l a t i , C 3 - 2 5 . H P. 0821 3600 8800 (Mr. Asep). (WhatsApp). Rella's Kitchen provides Catering with your Choice of difference cuisines. L et us k now what you want and we w ill create the food experience to fill your needs Intimate gatherings, big parties, or office functions - Rella's Kitchen is at your services Email : rellaskitchen@gmail.com PROPERTY F OR R E N T 350 Hou se s at Kemang, Cipete, Cilandak, Jeruk purut, Pondok Indah, Big Garden, Swimming Pool, U$ 2000 - U$ 7000. Phone: 0816859551 or 08170093366

JCC W IN ES A N D SPIR ITS COLLECTIVE. A wide range of great wines and spirits delivered to your door free of charge! Email: info@jccwinesandspirits.com. See www.jccwinesandspirits.com PERSONAL INVESTIGATION AND SECURITY SERVICES. Full service for all your personal and commercial needs. Intelligence g at her i ng a nd ba c k g r ou nd investigation. Partner, spouse. Discreet service. Text only to 0816 1716 1686. JCC VISA SERVICE. All kinds of Indonesian visas available, visa problems solved. No problem too large or too small. We’ve been doing visas since 2001 so we have friends in all the right places! Email info@jakartacomedyclub. com. Text 0821 1194 3084. Tutoring services throughout i nt er nat iona l s t udent s. We prov ide tutor in all subjects including Mathematics, Physics, Chemistry, Biology, Economics,

room, 1 Bath room, 1 Working room, 1 Warehouse, 2 car port. · Main Building (1st floor): 1 main bed room, 1 Bathroom. · Main Building (2nd floor): 3 bed rooms, 1 bath room. · Garage (1st floor): 2 cars garage, 2 cars carport, 4 maid bed room, 1 cleaning room. · Garage (2nd floor): 3 bed rooms, 3 bath room, Kitchen. · Private swimming pool. · Land 650ms · Building 400ms · Semi furnish · 11.000 watt electricity · 1 PAM water, 1 Jet pump, 2 solar cells for hot water · Large House Yard · Strategic location to Kuningan/Sudirman/Thamrin Contact: 0818 0871 3060 Penthouse for sale!!! For sale penthouse at Apar tment A m b a s s a d o r (3 1 6 m 2 ) . I f interested, please contact S. P Singh: 0816 1880-360 or 0816 174-15535.

FOR SALE : POWER PLATE MY5 — BRAND NEW, ONLY USED 5 TIMES – PAID US$5750. NEGOTIABLE. CALL +62811395456a I am moving this month and I am selling quality home furniture, teakwood antique Indonesian style as follows: Secretary Writing desk cylinder top — solid teak wood — IDR 2.5 million Chest of drawers — solid teak wood — IDR 2,5 million Sofa 2 seaters — IDR 800,000 TV cabinet — Teakwood — IDR 1.5 Million SON Y telev ision 32” — IDR 300,000 Cupboard — Dim 150 cm x 100 cm — IDR 1.5 Million Sofa Cleopatra — Solid teak wood — IDR 2,5 million Boat painting — IDR 300,000 Phot o s here: ht t p s://w w w. flickr.com/photos/125137... th/14186389650. Please call 0812 8860 8997 if you are interested and/or have questions.

PELABUHAN RATU

Houses for Rent : 2 nice houses 2 storey, one large join pool, beautiful garden, 24 security c ompou nd , no c ement wa l l between houses in the compound, each approx 500m2 house with 1,000 m 2 land, located at Jl.Margasatwa Raya, 10 Minutes to Cilandak Commercial Estate, @ USD 2,500,– to USD 3,000,per month with min one year lease. If interested (no Broker/ Agent), call owner 0811180605 House For sa le — House in menteng area (centre of Jakarta) 2 storey (certificate Hak milik) · Ready to stay. · 3 building (Main Building, Pavilion & Garage + rooms) · Pavilion (1st floor) : 1 Main Bed

FOR R EN T : A PA RTMEN T BELL AGIO M A NSION, kuningan 3 + 1 studyroom, 198 sqm , private lift, furnished, call : Lina 0812.10001.228 FOR R E N T : Bat av ia apt 1 bedroom , available 2 u n it , f u r n i she d , c a l l L i n a 0812.10001.228 F OR R E N T : A mb a s a dor 2 apar tment , 2 & 3 bedroom, furnished, call Lina 0812.10001.228 OTHER Leaving Jakarta and need to sell our furniture and more. See this link for photos https://www.flickr. com/photos/123633357@N02/. Contact 08119503370 or email jktmove@gmail.com if you are interested. Pick-up from Mega Kuningan.

PROPERTY

Di scover Vi l la Gamrang. Experience our hospitality and stay in your own beach house. Vi l la Gamrang (Cisolok, 4 hours ‘drive from Jakarta and 50 minutes from Sawarna beach ) is designed to offer guests a beautiful nature, complete privacy and luxury. Recently listed (Jan 9, 2014) in the "Top 100 Holiday Beach Houses around the world", Guardian Newspaper. Stylish interior, outdoor terrace, sea view, spacious garden, swimming pool, 4 bedrooms and 3 bathrooms,

complete kitchen, TV and Wi fi. Idyllic place for couples or families. Separate guesthouse with 1 bathroom and 2 bedrooms. Friendly staff and female cook. In house catering. Prices starting from IDR 1,499,000 per night for the main villa and IDR 800,000 for our Guesthouse, Villa Gamrang is highly appreciated by expat s and Indonesian families. Reservations. www. villa-gamrang.nl or just mail us directly at villagamrang@ gmail.com

JOGJAKARTA OTHER

Experience staying at a beautiful, original antique Javanese Joglo house in the foothills of Mount Merapi. Joglo Ago is a three double be d room v i l la w it h gardens, perfect for a weekend retreat from the hustle and bustle of city life. In close proximity to Mount Merapi and Borobudur

Temple. Visit www.jogloago.com for more information or call Indah 08123563626 or 0811268445.

BALI PROPERTY

custom made porcelain bathtubs, complete with a rain head showers and decorated and furnished in a Moroccan style. Contact Annie Dean Mobile: +62 (0)81 3394 55009 Office: +62 (361) 737 357

SUKABUMI SERVICES For Jawa Barat area, especially Sukabumi Area. When you Need for car and driver with english language I am more than happy to serve you. +6281380191913, yahya.al.jari@tri.blackberry.com

DO YOU HAVE AN EXISTING PENSION IN THE UK? REGAIN CONTROL WITH A QROPS. KEY ADVANTAGES OF A QUALIFIED RECOGNISED OVERSEAS PENSION SCHEME: • FLEXIBLE BENEFITS – UP TO 30% OPTIONAL LUMP SUM AND/ OR INCOME FROM AGE 55 • SUCCESSION PLANNING – PENSION NOT SURRENDERED ON DEATH, BENEFITS PASS TO NOMINATED BENEFICIARIES • TAX EFFICIENCY – BENEFITS FALL OUTSIDE UK INCOME AND INHERITANCE TAX REGIMES • INVESTMENT CHOICE – NO OBLIGATION TO PURCHASE AN ANNUITY. CHOOSE FROM A WIDE RANGE OF ASSET CLASSES

FOR MORE INFORMATION ON QROPS PLEASE E-MAIL INFO@GMS-FINANCIAL.COM OR CALL (021) 520 3574

PT ARIPA MAKMUR PERSADA Graha Aktiva (American Express Building) 4 th Floor, Suite 405, Jl. H. R. Rasuna Said, Kuningan, Jakarta 12950 - Indonesia

KOMODO

Tropical, Luxury Villa in Jimbaran With 44 Years Lease — This stunning tropical luxury property benefits from a prime location in Jimbaran, in southern Bali, set amongst the best 5 star hotels; The Four Seasons Hotel and Intercontinental Resort and is only a short walk to the beach and Bali’s famous beachfront seafood cafes. This surprising property is set on 38.6 are. The villa enjoys a secluded large private garden and private sw imming pool, which views directly out onto the verdant, tropical surroundings. The proper t y compr ises 3 bed room s, elega nt en- suit e bathrooms with mosaic tiles,

Zen Villa 2 bdrms 2 ensuites plunge pool bale bengong air cond ceiling fans fully furnished 2 TV's Printer/copier/scanner WiFi parking 24/7 security. Available now US $20000 pa. Apply to allan.liene@gmail.com

Land for sale in Seraya Island, Labuan Bajo, Komodo,with an area of 25 hectare..minimum pur cha s e of l and i s 12 hectares. Only 10 minutes from mainland. You can send email to: chandrahary07@yahoo.com or call me at 082110118173 or 085736602000.. haryanto.asking price Rp. 300.000/m2

Contact us for competitive advertising rates and get noticed through our printed publication, e-newsletter and on our website. ads@indonesiaexpat.biz issue 120 indonesia expat

INDONESIA EXPAT DIRECTORY

G4S Indonesia has been operating for over 15 years and employs over 12,000 employees. G4S Indonesia specializes in outsourcing of business processes in sectors where security and safety risks and considered a strategic threat. We help our customers to manage this challenge by determining effective measurable security strategies to: • Improve revenue growth or manage costs better • Improve asset protection and manage risks effectively • Improve a customer's service delivery Cilandak Commercial Estate Unit 407 Jl. Cilandak KKO, Jakarta 12560 Phone: 021 788 36107 E-mail: info@id.g4s.com Website: www.g4s.com

Safe Stories Counselling Service for Children and Young People Offering Play, Art and Drama Therapy Global Doctor Indonesia Jalan Kemang Raya 87 12730, Jakarta Selatan, Indonesia Phone: +62 (0) 21 719 4565 E-mail: tessa@globaldoctor.co.id

INDONESIA EXPAT DIRECTORY

Relax. We carry the load.

Medical evacuation health and life insurance. Let us diagnose your needs.

PT. Jakarta Real Estate Solutions

Contact: Paul Beale Mobile: +62 816 137 0663 Office: +62 21 522 0990 E-mail: paulbeale@gms-financial.com

Wisma Kemang 4th Floor, Jl Kemang Selatan Raya No. 1, Jakarta 12560 Phone: 021 7132 4283 e-mail: admin@jakres.com Website: www.jakres.com

Bartele Gallery is the only dedicated shop in Indonesia which focuses on antique maps, prints, photographs, books and antiquities, ideal for a unique gift for that special someone. Come and browse through hundreds of old and original maps and prints from all across the globe!

Call us +62 (0) 21 719 0087 or E-mail: sakesantema@gmail.com and visit our Facebook: facebook.com/ bartelegallery for more information.

INDONESIA EXPAT DIRECTORY

Santa Fe provides moving services — International, domestic, local & office, document storage & management services, real estate, property management & maintenance, orientations, visa & immigration and home contents insurance. Call us Jakarta: +62 21 2961 2990 Balikpapan:+62 542 713 4334 Bali: +62 811 889 2445 Surabaya: +62 812 304 4775 or E-mail: indonesia@santaferelo.com and visit our website www.santaferelo.com for more information

INDONESIA EXPAT DIRECTORY

Your peace of mind is our highest priority. One company Allied to Allied, over 800 locations worldwide. Your specialist in household goods moving services. Jakarta: (021) 780 7851 Surabaya: (031) 749 8377 E-mail: info@alliedpickfords.co.id Web: www.alliedpickfords.co.id

Scan your books to read them on the go! PT. MegaEnviron is specialized in scanning books even without removing the book bindings (non-destructive scan). Other services include scanning documents, photographs,films, and slides, data entry, managing documents and database. Contact: Charoen Sanpawa Mobile: 0811-930-3744 Office: 021-632-6667. E-mail:charoen@megaenviron.com Website: www.megaenviron.com

TO BOOK SPACE ON THIS DIRECTORY PAGE CALL: 021 7179 4550

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indonesia expat issue 120

issue 120 indonesia expat

indonesia expat issue 120