Indonesia Expat - issue 147

FR EE !

I S S U E N O . 147 | 12 – 2 5 A U G U S T 2 015

J A K A R TA • J AVA • B A L I • L O M B O K • K A L I M A N TA N • S U M AT R A • S U L AW E S I • W E S T PA P U A

W W W. I N D O N E S I A E X PAT. B I Z

HOW FEASIBLE IS JOKOWI'S MEGA HARVEST PROJECT? FOOTBALL: PERSIPURA JAYAPURA, THE BLACK PEARLS

KAYAKING FOR CONSERVATION: MEET MAX AMMER PROTECTING INDIGENOUS PEOPLE'S RIGHTS WITH AMAN

MOTORBIKE TAXI EMPIRE: GO-JEK

THE

PAPUA & SPICE ISLANDS ISSUE

issue 147 Indonesia expat

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Indonesia expat issue 147

issue 147 Indonesia expat

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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

Dear Readers, Editor in Chief

Angela Richardson angela@indonesiaexpat.biz

Editorial Enquiries

letters@indonesiaexpat.biz

Management

Edo Frese edo@indonesiaexpat.biz

Sales

Dian Mardianingsih ads@indonesiaexpat.biz

Distribution & Admin

Juni Setiawan admin@indonesiaexpat.biz

Graphics

Frederick Ng Katarina Anindita

Finance

Lini Verawaty finance@indonesiaexpat.biz

Contributors Bill Dalton Annali Hayward Martin Jenkins Heru Nainggolan Simon Pitchforth Hans Rooseboom Eamonn Sadler Antony Sutton Kenneth Yeung

Circulation Enquiries info@indonesiaexpat.biz

Subscriptions

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I am very pleased to present you with the Papua & Spice Islands Issue, for the simple fact that this easternmost part of Indonesia also happens to be my favourite travel destination in the archipelago.

Travelling to Raja Ampat over the Christmas period nearly a year ago, I was absolutely blown away by this region’s beauty. It was here that I witnessed first-hand what I had seen so many times on David Attenborough documentaries on a television screen at home: the curious mating ritual of the Bird of Paradise – the Wilson’s Bird of Paradise, to be exact.

After one failed expedition to catch a glimpse of this near-threatened bird endemic to Waigeo and Batanta Islands, our spirits were not dampened and we set off for a second time at 4am on canoes with engines, traversing through heavily forested islands before disembarking upstream. A one-hour trek on foot through dense jungle led us to a makeshift viewing area where we sat, cameras in hand, waiting patiently.

First came his calls, unlike any birdsong I’ve ever heard. Then the little blue-headed and yellow- and-red-backed bird came into view, ‘cleaning’ his home for a potential mate. This behaviour was incredible to watch; he cleared away leaves in his area, ensuring it was left spotless. After an hour or so, a dull-coloured female appeared, obviously attracted by this particular male’s home-making abilities, and the show began.

To impress his potential mate, Wilson faced the female backwards and lifted his wings, revealing his electric blue head and yellow and red back. Morphing into what looked kind of like a spinning top, he began to dance from side to side, trying to woo his new lady friend. On this extremely rare occasion, another male swooped down from the treetops, scaring the female away, and began a tête-à-tête with the home-owner, who capably told him

to scram. Seeing this unusual behaviour was definitely worth the two early starts, getting soaked and bitten to pieces by mosquitoes and even waiting hours for the shy bird to show. I have a newfound sense of respect for wildlife documentarymakers.

Of course, Raja Ampat is also a haven beneath its shores, and we enjoyed the crème de la crème of dive sites here, my favourite being the coral meadows teeming with fish at Melissa’s Garden. Without even diving under the waters, you have the opportunity to see baby sharks, sting rays, jumping sail fish and dolphins, all from the comfort of your ocean hut, which most of the accommodation in this region embodies.

If you live in Indonesia, love nature and wildlife – especially diving – please do find time to visit this unique outpost of rugged islands, accessible by boat from Sorong in West Papua. Eco-tourism continues to support conservation efforts in this region which is setting precedence in the world, with fish species actually increasing over the last decade!

Enjoy this issue!

Angela Richardson Editor in Chief

Events

events@indonesiaexpat.biz

Published by

PT. Koleksi Klasik Indonesia Graha Eka Formula Building 3rd floor, #302 Jl. Bangka Raya No. 2 Kemang, Jakarta T: 021 719 5908 (sales/editorial) 021 719 3409 (admin/finance) F: 021 719 3409 Office hours: 09.00–17.00 Monday–Friday INDONESIA EXPAT IS PUBLISHED BI-WEEKLY BY PT. KOLEKSI KLASIK INDONESIA. OPINIONS EXPRESSED IN THIS

LETTER TO THE EDITOR

Dear Alan, Hello,

It's very nice to hear from you and we're happy to hear you find our publication useful.

I read your excellent publication whenever I'm in Indonesia which is 12 weeks a year.

I wonder if you could advise how I can get to watch the Rugby World Cup games in October/November.

Many sports bars will be showing the Rugby World Cup, but for the best atmosphere, we would suggest Eastern Promise in Kemang or Aphrodite in Kuningan. Lens, the manager of Eastern Promise, has added you onto their mailing list for RWC updates.

PUBLICATION ARE THOSE OF THE WRITERS AND THE PUBLISHER DOES NOT ACCEPT ANY RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY ERRORS,

Are any of the hotels featuring games in their bars for example?

OMMISIONS, OR COMPLAINTS ARISING THERE FROM.

Is there a Jakarta Rugby Club I could join?

For rugby in Jakarta, you should make contact with the Jakarta Komodos Rugby Football Club (http://www.pitchero.com/clubs/ jakartakomodos/).

NO PARTS OF THIS PUBLICATION CAN BE REPRODUCED IN WHOLE OR IN PART, IN PRINT OR ELECTRONICALLY WITHOUT

I look forward to hearing from you.

PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHER. ALL TRADEMARKS, LOGOS, BRANDS AND DESIGNS ARE COPYRIGHT AND FULLY

Kind Regards, Alan W.

RESERVED BY PT. KOLEKSI KLASIK INDONESIA.

The Cover Kayaking for conservation.

Photo courtesy of Kayak4Conservation.

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Indonesia expat issue 147

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I have also taken the liberty to add you to our fortnightly e-newsletter, so you can keep up-to-date with what’s happening in Indonesia while you are abroad.

Many thanks, Angela

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Issue 147

Contents

06 06 08

14 Feature Story No Way Out

16 18

Expat Business

Featured Concerns Loom Over Feasibility of Papua Mega Agriculture Project

Scams in the City It's All About the Money

Expat Outreach

20

Sports Persipura Jayapura's Long Road to Success

21

Environment Development Vs Indigenous People and the Environment

10

Business Profile PT Go-Jek Indonesia: Born to Ride

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Meet the Expat Max Ammer: A Modern Day Robinson Crusoe

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Worthy Causes The Strife for Reconciliation of Indonesia's Indigenous Communities

Expat Lifestyle

23

Announcements

24

Light Entertainment Fetch the Fava Beans and a Nice Chianti

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Observations Booze Blues

14

Food & Drink Cantina 18: Like Mamma Used to Make

15

Advertising Feature Raja Ampat: Paradise in Eastern Indonesia

16

Meet the Expat Burt Jones and Maurine Shimlock: Raja Ampat Dive Pioneers

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Events

27

Business Directory

History The Big Apple and the Spice Islands

28

Classifieds

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issue 147 Indonesia expat

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FEATURE STORY

Protestors for West Papua's independence in Melbourne. Photo courtesy of Wikipedia Commons

No Way Out

By Kenneth Yeung

Š Standord Policy Review

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Indonesia expat issue 147

Kenneth Yeung is a Jakarta-based editor

Papua’s abundant natural resources are a blessing and a curse. As the Indonesian military’s last remaining place to quash rebellion, there is unlikely to be any resolution of human rights abuses, no matter how many “autonomy measures” are introduced.

O

Some Indonesians have a racist streak against Papuans.

Perhaps not surprising in a country where advertisers constantly tell people that white skin is better than dark skin.

Last week, I asked a group of Indonesian women – Javanese, Sumatran and Manadonese – what they thought about Papuans. “Stupid, lazy, drunk and black,” said one woman.

“They are embarrassing,” said another, “because they live in jungles and wear koteka [penis gourds] and the women don’t wear bras. They didn’t have proper clothes or shops until Indonesia helped them but they always complain.”

n a Friday night in Jakarta, I meet with a Papuan civil servant to ask him about development in his home province. He is initially positive, but after three beers he starts cursing Indonesia and says he wishes Western countries would support Papuan independence.

It’s a sorry sight. An affable man, reduced to a drunken wreck, lamenting that his homeland will never be free.

In a perfect world, the Indonesian provinces of Papua and West Papua, and the neighbouring nation of Papua New Guinea would be a single country.

European colonial history deemed otherwise, leading to a split down the middle of the world’s second-largest island. Many Indonesians know little about Papua and its history, least of all how it got its name.

The indigenous inhabitants, the Melanesians, are believed to have arrived about 50,000 years ago.

Contact by Europeans commenced in 1526, when a Portuguese explorer, Jorge de Meneses, stopped in search of fresh water for his sailors. He named the island Ilhas dos Papuas (Land of the Frizzy-Haired People). For a long time, it was accepted that ‘Papua’ derived from ‘puah-puah’ – supposedly an old Malay word for ‘frizzy’ – although this word doesn’t appear in many dictionaries. More recently, some scholars have suggested the name Papua comes from a local term ‘sup i papwa’ (the land below), meaning either below the sunset or below (under) the power of the Sultanate of Tidore (part of the Maluku islands).

The name New Guinea was given to the island in 1545 by a Spanish explorer, Yñigo Ortiz de Retez, who thought the natives resembled people from the Guinea coast of western Africa.

The Dutch in 1660 acknowledged the Sultanate of Tidore's sovereignty over New Guinea, which in 1667 came under Dutch control when the Dutch East India Company became the ‘protector’ of Tidore. In 1828, the Dutch made a settlement in western New Guinea and claimed sovereignty over the half of the island lying west of 141 degrees longitude. By 1884, the northeastern quarter of the island was a protectorate of Germany, while the southeastern quarter was claimed by Britain, which handed over control to Australia in 1902. Germany lost its colonies at the end of World War I in 1918 so Australia ended up controlling territories called Papua and New Guinea, while the Dutch retained West New Guinea.

After World War II, Australia began slowly decolonising Papua New Guinea, which became fully independent in 1975. The Dutch had no immediate plans to give independence to their side of the island. Indonesia also opposed independence, insisting the island should be part of the newly formed republic. After years of squabbling at the United Nations (UN) and some military conflict, Indonesia and the Netherlands signed a ceasefire in 1962, paving the way for Indonesia to take over the territory. This agreement was largely due to American pressure on the Netherlands, as the Soviet Union had been selling arms to Indonesia for an invasion of Papua, and the US wanted to counter this “communist threat”.

West New Guinea was handed over to Indonesian administration in 1963, on the condition that an independence referendum, involving all native men and women, be held within six years. The so-called 'Act of Free Choice' was held in 1969. Indonesia argued that Papuans were too primitive for democracy and instead selected 1,022 participants to form an assembly, which unanimously voted for incorporation into Indonesia. Some assembly members said they were threatened and bribed.

Papuan leader Theys Uluay who was murdered by the Army's elite Special Forces in 2001

There are concerns that Papuans will end up a minority in their own land because of Indonesia’s policy of sending settlers from crowded islands, such as Java, to more remote parts of the country.

Indonesia renamed the territory West Irian because the term Papua had connotations of colonialism and slavery. It has often been claimed that Irian is an acronym for Ikut Republik Indonesia Anti-Nederland (Join the Republic of Indonesia Anti-Netherlands).

Irian is actually a Biak word meaning ‘hot land’ or ‘rising spirit’. In 1973, the name was changed to Irian Jaya (Glorious Irian). The word Irian ended up being associated with Indonesian repression, so following the 1998 fall of long-serving president Suharto, the province was renamed Papua in 2000.

In 2001, the government granted limited autonomy to empower Papuans, resulting in some local officials becoming extremely rich. In 2003, the territory was divided into two provinces: Papua and West Papua.

The House of Representatives in 2013 decided that parts of Papua province should become South Papua and Central Papua provinces, while part of West Papua would become Southwest Papua province. The proposal has been rejected by local politicians and human rights activists, who feel it will merely increase the number of outsiders coming to collect government pay cheques.

There are concerns that Papuans will end up a minority in their own land because of Indonesia’s policy of sending settlers from crowded islands, such as Java, to more remote parts of the country. In 1971, Papuans made up 96 percent of the West Irian population. By 2000, the figure had fallen to 68 percent. Some academics now put the figure at nearer to 50 percent.

There has been low-level armed resistance to Indonesian rule since the 1960s, resulting in a heavy military presence. One senior newspaper editor in Jakarta describes Papua and West Papua as the last remaining playground of the Indonesian military, following the 1999 secession of East Timor and the 2004 tsunami that ended decades of rebellion in Aceh province.

“Papua is the last place left where Indonesian soldiers can engage in combat to earn promotions. And they can make big money on the side through illegal logging,” he says.

“They have very many gold and metal and forests; they should be rich but they are poor because they are lazy,” said a Javanese woman. She said human rights abuses are justifiable because soldiers are “only following orders” and “Papuans make trouble”. When I showed the women video footage of a dying Papuan with his stomach cut open, being taunted by a group of Indonesian soldiers, the women became silent and then changed the subject.

It is unfortunate for Papuans that Melanesians have a genetic susceptibility to alcoholism, much like Australian aborigines. An Australian who worked at the school run

by Freeport Indonesia near its giant gold and copper mine in Papua recalls that when he tried to drink with locals, they could suddenly turn belligerent. He also claims that an empty shipping container was used by security forces to imprison Papuans, who could die in such confinement.

© Axel Drainville

Freeport has long paid the Indonesian military to provide security. There have been allegations that troops masterminded riots at the mine in order to obtain more protection money. In 2002, gunmen killed two American teachers and one Indonesian teacher near the mine. The killings were blamed on an alleged separatist, Antonius Wamang, who said he received his ammunition from a high-ranking Indonesian soldier and saw masked troops shooting during the attack.

The Army’s elite Special Forces (Kopassus) in 2001 murdered Papuan leader Theys Eluay after he had attended a celebration at a Kopassus base. Then-Army chief Ryamizard Ryacudi praised the killers as heroes.

Ryamizard is now defence minister, so President Joko Widodo – who has already allowed the police to undermine the Corruption Eradication Commission – may not be strong enough to deliver on promises for a more humane approach in Papua.

Independence is no guarantee of a better future. Papua New Guinea has been prone to corruption, ethnic conflicts and rebellions. An Australian environmentalist who worked last year in Papua, says independence would create many problems, though people would “prefer to be ripped off by their own”, rather than outsiders. He also says there may be less aggressive transformation of jungles into oil palm and sugar cane estates, and a greater chance of revenue trickling down to villagers – rather than profits ending up in Jakarta or offshore.

But for now, Papua is destined to remain part of Indonesia, and the government has its work cut out in winning the hearts and minds of the people. issue 147 Indonesia expat

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EXPAT BUSINESS FEATURED

Photo by Esteban Chiner

Concerns Loom Over

Feasibility of Papua Mega Agriculture Project

Experts say Jokowi's grand rice harvest plan for Papua will fail, as it would require the Government to round up US$2.9 billion and fly in more than 500,000 workers.

By Heru Nainggolan

T

he controversial revival of a food and energy mega-project in the Papuan province of Merauke, dubbed the Merauke Integrated Food and Energy Estate (MIFEE), is doomed for failure due to its ambitious scope, experts say.

one more hectare to them,” says Santosa.

According to him, allocating more resources to smallholder farmers, instead of giving the task to a large private company is the only way the Government can theoretically succeed in turning Merauke into an agricultural hub.

Professor Dwi Andreas Santosa is a specialist from the Bogor Agriculture Institute. According to him, the project, which aims to cultivate 1.2 million hectares of rice within a three-year period, will likely fail because the current government has not learned from Indonesia’s previous failure.

“If the Government proceeds with the current concept, which is [a] food estate, then I could guarantee it will fail,” Santosa tells Indonesia Expat.

“In order to attract foreign investment, the Government has to spend a lot of money. The food estate concept is giving private companies the authority to cultivate land on a large scale, but no companies will want to do that because they will actually lose money if they must build the necessary infrastructure,” explains Santosa.

Under the food estate plan, the Government is encouraging foreign investment in local agriculture in order to build a supply of local food amid growing uncertainty surrounding global supply and demand.

With this policy, the Indonesian Government hopes to decrease its dependence on imported food products over the next several years, particularly rice.

The Government plans to award the project to the private sector. “Why doesn’t the Government [instead] work together with local farmers who own less than two hectares of land? [It could] just allocate 8

Indonesia expat issue 147

The current MIFEE project is projected to cost the Government a whopping Rp.40 trillion (US$2.9 billion), much more than the initial estimate of Rp.21 trillion (US$1.6 billion), according to the Agriculture Ministry. One of the project’s ad-hoc team members, Rudy Tjahjohutomo, says the initial estimate would only be enough for basic elements of the farming process, like grinding the rice. After taking into account the need for physical infrastructure, such as irrigation channels and access roads, the budget ballooned, says Tjahjohutomo.

With such large budget demands, Santosa believes the Government is set to repeat the failure of the Suharto administration,

which also tried to build a one millionhectare food estate in Central Kalimantan in 1996, called the Mega Rice Project.

“Now the area has turned into a wasteland, with a loss of 56 million [square metres] of woods. The Government had to spend Rp.3 trillion for rehabilitation purposes,” recalls Santosa, who was also a member of the project’s environmental analysis team at the time. “The topography between Kalimantan and Papua is different, but the concept is exactly the same.”

Another ad-hoc team coordinator, Haryono, previously said the project would be divided into three phases, with each phase taking one year to complete. In the first phase, the Government would provide Rp.7 trillion (US$518 million) in funding to open 250,000 hectares of the food estate land in Merauke this year. However, the Agriculture Ministry's Director General for Agriculture, Infrastructure and Facilities, Gatot Irianto, says there are only 10,000 hectares of land that are ready to be cultivated at the moment.

“This year we want to try 10,000 hectares first,” Irianto tells Indonesia Expat.

“They’re already clear and clean [with permits].” He adds that the Government is still in the process of environmentally analysing the rest of the land needed for the project. Apart from that, it still must

go through provincial spatial planning, something which stalled previous attempts to develop agriculture in Merauke, according to Irianto.

While Irianto claims the 10,000 hectares of land to be cultivated this year have no permit problems, Papua’s natural resources and environment management agency head, Noak Kapisa, says that is not the case.

Kapisa cites the example of the 400-hectare piece of land that was harvested in a recent ceremony to mark the beginning of the mega project.

“Most of the land is located on indigenous land,” Kapisa says, adding that the agency would further check the status of the land allocated for the project to prevent any disputes.

The idea of the MIFEE programme was born when former Merauke regent John Gluba Gebze established the Merauke Integrated Rice Estate (MIRE) in 2007 after former president Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono visited and made an appeal to transform Merauke into a national rice barn.

The programme allows up to 49 percent of foreign investment into local plantations, but has no requirement to secure a certain amount of crops for local needs. MIFEE has proven to be a tough project to implement,

As many as 500,000 labourers need to be flown in for the project to be carried out. This will create a huge social impact as there are only around 200,000 people living in the province with 55,000 indigenous people. There will be a sudden shift in demographics [which will create social conflicts].

Photo by Shubert Ciencia

President Jokowi said the mega project should take into account the needs of local people so it doesn’t end up like previous failed projects. Santosa, however, says it would be extremely difficult to achieve this due to the project’s implied magnitude.

“As many as 500,000 labourers need to be flown in for the project to be carried out. This will create huge social impact as there are only around 200,000 people living in the province with 55,000 indigenous people. There will be a sudden shift in demographics [which will create social conflicts],” he says.

Photo by Jason Paris

particularly because of land issues, as the multibillion-dollar initiative threatens conservation areas like virgin forests and water catchment areas, as well as the habitats of indigenous people in Papua.

There are also concerns over human rights abuses, including violations of land rights and the requirement to obtain free, prior, and informed consent. There is also controversy surrounding the displacement of local people via inflows of workers from outside the region.

In the end, however, Santosa agrees the Government needs to boost its food selfsustainability. However, he thinks the best route is by empowering small farmers in order to stop importing rice. In the first two quarters of last year, Indonesia imported 176,227 tonnes of rice, which was worth around US$76.2 million.

“Rice imports are detrimental as they make it hard for rice from local farmers to compete in the market,” explains Santosa.

Heru Nainggolan is a Jakarta-based freelance writer and journalist who has been covering a variety of issues since 2011.

issue 147 Indonesia expat

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EXPAT BUSINESS BUSINESS PROFILE

Let’s start with the fact that GO-JEK is a social enterprise and not a business – can you please explain this to us in more detail?

One of GO-JEK’s goals as a business is to improve the livelihood of our drivers by earning more income. As GO-JEK is essentially making that happen, there is a big social impact from the business, which has transformed GO-JEK into a social enterprise.

GO-JEK was established in 2010, however it is this year that Jakartans have really become aware of your brand. What contributed towards this giant leap?

Firstly, when we started the app six months ago, there was nothing like it in the market, which meant no competition. Secondly, the app works, and seeing as Indonesia’s smartphone penetration is far better than it was five years ago, the app is a major contribution to the success of GO-JEK today. It is user friendly; you can book a GO-JEK much faster than having a call centre; you can use GO-JEK credit to pay, making it cashless; you can see whom your driver is, track your driver and SMS or call him during your order.

When we launched the GO-JEK app, we had a system whereby people were given a referral code to give Rp.50,000 to others to try GO-JEK for free for the first time. This system blew up on social media and people were spreading their codes like wildfire.

Once they tried it, they were hooked.

With now over 10,000 drivers, GO-JEK drivers are visible everywhere in Jakarta.

With this, people become curious to try out the service.

As the founder, can you share with us the story that led to the birth of GO-JEK? It started four years ago with our CEO Nadiem Makarim and me. Nadiem was studying in Harvard Business School and I was studying in the Academy of Art University. He hates traffic and therefore uses ojeks all the time and started building relationships with his drivers, asking them to do things like delivering items and doing his shopping. He took one of his drivers out for coffee and asked him how the ojek system works and found out that they are territorial; if they pick up a passenger from Sudirman to Kemang, they cannot pick up another passenger from Kemang – they have to go back to their pangkalan (base) in Sudirman. Secondly, there is a big queueing system; if they return to their pangkalan in Sudirman and there are 20 drivers there, they cannot pick up a

passenger until all 20 drivers have picked up a customer. It’s an inefficient system.

We interviewed many drivers and asked what they’d think if we made a system whereby we give them customers and split the commission. They asked us if they could pick up passengers on their own, which we explained would mean no split of commission. GO-JEK was born.

We started recruiting drivers and building the GO-JEK system with the idea of three services – transport, courier and shopping.

Fast-forward four years, from 200 drivers we are now 15,000 and have a mobile app that is number one on the Google Play and iOS stores in Indonesia.

Can you tell us how your fees to the customer are calculated?

For the usual pricing, we start with Rp.25,000 for the first 5km and it goes up on average Rp.4,000 per km after.

However, right now we have a promo for Rp.10,000 for all services up to 25km (not including shopping and food costs).

One thing that makes GO-JEK really special is your pick-up and delivery service of food and beverages, GO-FOOD, with a delivery charge of Rp.10,000 at over 20,000 restaurants. What do you aim to achieve in the F&B industry by way of providing this service?

With the biggest organised motorcycle fleet in Indonesia, we want to create the fastest and most efficient F&B delivery service.

To make it easier for our customers, we wanted to have a portal for menus for all kinds of restaurants from roadside warung to fine-dining restaurants, all deliverable in the GO-JEK fashion – fast and easy. We want to become the leader in this space, providing easy access to food delivery for office workers and residences, with a social impact by improving revenue streams for all restaurants in Indonesia. GO-FOOD is now present in Jakarta, Bali and Bandung and will soon be expanding nationwide.

How many GO-JEK drivers do you have on board now and can you share with us the benefits they receive when joining?

We have about 15,000 drivers onboard right now nationwide. Some of the benefits include accident coverage, medical clinic for drivers and opt-in affordable health insurance for their entire families. We also do driver safety training with Rifat Driver Lab, training about 300 drivers per week, ranging from classroom learning, basic, intermediate, advanced and pro with a focus on how to create a culture of safety in driving, and eco-driving. All drivers are offered this, and we pay for one full day’s training. Drivers that have been through this training receive safety accreditation.

We have also other programmes aiming to improve the livelihood of drivers and their activities while operating in GO-JEK. There have been stories in the media recently of some of your drivers being threatened by non-affiliated ojek drivers.

Can you tell us how you have been tackling this problem and protect your drivers?

To protect our drivers, we now have a third-party security taskforce that provides fast emergency response in situations

GO-JEK, the army of green-helmeted motorbike taxis that has taken over the streets of Jakarta, Surabaya, Bandung and Bali, provides fast transportation and delivery services via mobile application. Their core values of speed, innovation and social impact have led to the company’s huge success. We meet Co-Founder and Brand Manager Michaelangelo Moran to find out more about this social enterprise that everyone is raving about.

Born to Ride

PT GO-JEK Indonesia

By Angela Richardson

BUSINESS SNIPPETS

Indonesia Raises Import Tariffs Indonesia has raised import tariffs on more than a thousand items covering many consumer goods such as clothes, food and cars to arrest an economic slowdown and falling retail sales. Economists have warned it will fuel inflation and noted firms faced bigger problems than foreign competition.

For clothes, the new import tariffs were mostly raised to between 15 and 25 percent, the Government said. T-shirts, used clothes and corsets will be levied duties of between 22.5 and 35 percent.

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Indonesia expat issue 147

"Domestic industry is being overwhelmed by the flows of imported goods. We need to curb these flows so domestic products would not be outnumbered [sic]," Heru Pambudi, the customs and excise tax director-general, told reporters in Jakarta.

Business groups have lauded import duty rises on a wide range of manufactured goods, expressing hopes of a boost to domestic industries amid the current economic slowdown.

Photo courtesy of The Business Times

Some of the benefits include accident coverage, medical clinic for drivers and opt-in affordable health insurance for their entire families that involve threats and intimidation.

Our supervisors are also out in the field reaching out to and mediating with problem areas – this has proven to be a highly successful initiative to help ojek drivers see us as a means to achieving higher productivity and boost recruitment.

What do your drivers earn on average, and can you tell us about your bonus scheme?

Our drivers on average earn upwards of Rp.4 million a month, but a large percentage of them earn more than 6 million. For highly productive drivers that are able to achieve 10 trips in a day, we incentivise them with a bonus of Rp.50,000.

This year we have also witnessed the birth of your competitor, GrabBike, with branding that is quite similar to yours. How do you feel about your competitors?

Being the first mover, there was no doubt that competition would follow. After all, imitation is a form of flattery. There are quite a few local competitors: Taxi Jek, GO GO Jek, Antar Barang, and many others that have not entered the mobile app space,

which we do not fear. GrabBike seems to be the one gaining presence in Jakarta.

We feel that GO-JEK – given our national presence and vertical integration – is ahead of the competition. Given our wide fan base, we need to continue to provide superior service to beat well-funded competitors like GrabBike.

With the traffic in Jakarta only getting worse, what do you see as the long-term solution? What role will GO-JEK play in this?

Perhaps an incentive to use public transportation along with subsidised GO-JEK rides might be the way to go.

Alternatively, fees could be introduced for major roads like Sudirman and Rasuna Said, like they do in Singapore. The infrastructure being built in Jakarta is already worsening traffic in areas like Wolter Monginsidi, Tendean, Pakubuwono and many others, not to mention the MRT building around Sudirman. GO-JEK’s role would be to provide a feeder system to these station points. Jakarta residents need to have access to the stations in order to use public transport and GO-JEK is the solution to that problem.

To get in touch with Michaelangelo Moran, please e-mail: m.moran@go-jek.com

Import Tax Raised on Alcohol In a regulation effective from 23 July, any beverages with an alcohol content of less than 80 percent, such as brandy, whisky, vodka, gin and rum, will be charged import duties of 150 percent.

Under the previous regulation, import duties were based on volume, at around Rp.125,000 per litre. Under the current regulation, duties will refer to price value.

For example, a litre of whisky with a market price of Rp.1 million would cost Rp.1,125,000 under the previous

regulation, while under the new rule, the price will swell to Rp.2.5 million.

The new regulation also targets beverages with an alcohol content of between 15 and 25 percent, such as wine. However, import duties for wine are set at a lower rate of 90 percent of market price. issue 147 Indonesia expat

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EXPAT BUSINESS MEET THE EXPAT

A Modern Day Robinson Crusoe

Meet Max Ammer Dutch-born Max Ammer first visited Indonesia when he was 29 and not long after made Raja Ampat his permanent residence.

Running two dive resorts and an NGO that focuses on vocational training, Max is also considered a pioneer in conservation. He talks to us about his work, his experience diving for WWII wrecks and surviving an airplane crash.

By Angela Richardson

You started your Indonesian adventure diving for shipwrecks in Raja Ampat. Tell us more about this exciting expedition.

WWII’s history has fascinated me for as long as I can remember. To reach ship and aircraft wrecks no others have seen before is like a dream. Finding and researching what happened is very fascinating. We (it is always with the help of the local Papuan people) discovered very many ship and aircraft wrecks and each has a story to tell.

What made you fall in love with and set up a permanent base in Raja Ampat?

The people! I remember one day while camping I heard someone walking around my tent. At first I thought the person wanted to steal something and I was ready to punch the intruder in the nose when he (I presumed it was a man) started opening the tent zipper. It turned out to be a young girl with a pineapple, which she wanted to put inside my tent as a gift. I followed this girl to her house so I could thank her family. It was a simple hut on the beach and I did not see that they had anything edible. Her genuine generosity was possibly the reason I did not want to ever return to Europe and made me fall in love with the people here.

Where did the idea to open Papua Diving Resorts come from? Can you give us a brief explanation of what your resorts on Kri Island and Sorido Bay have to offer?

I wanted to stay and work with the local people. Raja Ampat was a very remote area; no industry existed so it was a logical choice to go for the nature travel business. It was as simple as visiting a nearby village and explaining the idea, asking who would be willing to join and there were more hands raised than we could hire. We started building the same day!

Now, many years later, we still practice the concept of working with as many local people as possible, which means building everything ourselves as well as having only local dive guides. Strangely enough, this is still not common practice and there are resorts that do not even employ a single Papuan dive guide.

We have a wealth of experience and regularly do expeditions and exploration trips, making us unique. Our team guides some of the top documentary teams as well as scientists and

conservation professionals. We’ve learned a lot from this and this knowledge is something our guests benefit from.

Kri Eco is located next to Cape Kri reef, which, according to research by the famous marine scientist Dr. Allen, holds the world record for number of fish species. How many species are there exactly and are more still being discovered?

In 2001, during an expedition we organised for Conservation International, 45 reefs were surveyed, with the highest fish recorded at Milne Bay in PNG of 203 different species of fish counted during one dive. Raja Ampat had an average fish count of over 200 species per dive and our house reef turned out to be the richest with 80 species more than the record at that time.

When I asked Dr. Allen 11 years later to dive the location again to see how the situation had changed, he recorded 91 species more than in 2001! The record now stands at 374 species of fish. According to Dr. Allen, this is due to a combination of several factors, one of the major ones being conservation efforts we have been initiating in this area. Before anyone was even talking about conservation, we were doing it and scientists confirm that Raja Ampat is one of the few places conservation is proven to work.

Our team guides some of the top documentary teams as well as scientists and conservation professionals.

One of my great friends, Dr. M. Erdmann, on his latest exploration discovered three new species of fish during one dive, so the count is still going up!

How do you ensure minimal impact on the environment in your area?

We keep our resorts small and thus create minimal pressure on the surrounding reefs. Kri Eco Resort caters to a maximum of 24 guests while Sorido Bay Resort caters to a maximum of 18. The level of education is very high; we employ more senior dive professionals than is usual in this industry and keep working to raise our standards. We do that while mainly working with local Papuan people who have had very little education.

You also run Kayak4Conservation, a not-for-profit initiative working alongside the Raja Ampat Research and Conservation Center. Please tell us more about this programmes and how it helps transform lives.

We hope to make a positive impact and focus on conservation issues. We now have a team of six working on the different initiatives we have come up with and also ideas we learned from others. Building top quality kayaks is one such idea and our sweet potato project is another.

The kayaking project helps the local people become participants from mere bystanders and the sweet potatoes we are growing (25 species) have better nourishment and thus hopefully will contribute to general health improvement of the local population.

What help do you believe the people of Papua and Raja Ampat need and how do you believe this can be aided through vocational education?

We wish to be engaged in education in fields important for the area, like fibreglass longboats which are the preferred form of transportation here. These boats are 40-50 percent more fuel efficient due to their light weight than traditional wooden boats. These longboats also last at least five times longer and need almost no maintenance. Being able to build a good quality fiberglass boat is a marketable skill and is more profitable due to less fuel consumption.

Another example we are trying to get off the ground is woodworking. Traditionally, one of the only ways for a Papuan family to get their hands on cash is by selling their forest. They do so not because they do not value nature but because of necessity. A tree would get them around US$20 from a logging company. If they instead cut a tree and made timber out of that tree, their yield could be US$700. Better still (something we are working on setting up) is to teach the people to make furniture out of a tree. Doing so would give them the possibility to yield US$3,500 out of that same tree.

You fly planes to conduct research and unfortunately suffered a plane crash, with only your seat left in-tact.

How did you manage to survive such an ordeal and what have you taken away from this experience?

The seat actually also was cracked in half! It was my own mistake; the plane was defective and I should not have flown. The only reason I survived is that I was blessed.

I praise the Lord that I came out of that one unhurt as it was a total miracle that I did.

Is Indonesia your ‘forever’ home? What do you miss when you’re away?

I hope it will be in this world! The food and nature here make up for a lot, however being far from family and friends are things one will need to accept. Fortunately in this day and age we have Skype and emails to keep in touch.

Thank you, Max. To get in touch, please e-mail: max@papua-diving.com or max@stichting-rarcc.org. For more information visit www.stichting-rarcc.org

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Indonesia expat issue 147

issue 147 Indonesia expat

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EXPAT LIFESTYLE

FOOD AND DRINK

Like Mamma Used to Make

Annali Hayward is an expert eater, decisive drinker, fumbling fashionista and tasteful traveller, who writes to savour it all – preferably at once. E-mail her at annali.s.hayward@gmail.com

In Italy, a cantina is a kind of cellar found below most private residences, where the household’s wine, cured meats, cheese and pantry staples are kept. In these underground havens, the temperature is kept below 18˚, and families often find themselves hanging out, slicing up parmeggiano and prosciutto, enjoying an impromptu get-together.

By Annali Hayward

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f, like me, you’ve ever fancied yourself as the Mamma or Papa in your own Italian family fantasy, the thought of this will appeal to you. Get ye, therefore, to Cantina 18˚, which opened in South Jakarta’s restaurant-magnet district of Senopati about six months ago. It’s not about fancy surroundings and expensive menus, nor cheap and cheerful trattoria-style Italian dining. Cantina 18˚ offers you something in between: good food in a relaxed atmosphere. Perfetto.

We went on a Sunday lunchtime with empty stomachs, in preparation for a proper fourcourse Italian feast. The restaurant boasts two Italian chefs, Omar and Stefano. Omar took us through his specials menu, which changes at least weekly depending on the new, fresh ingredients he and Stefano find in the marketplace.

Cantina 18 – Italian Grill Restaurant 2/F, Jl. Suryo 25, Senopati, Jakarta 12180, Indonesia Phone: +62 21 2751 0539 Web: www.cantina-18.com

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Indonesia expat issue 147

As the flames lick upwards, offset by the deep Tuscan red of the dining room’s walls and napery, you know you’re in for a treat. you like – even if it’s not on the menu. We, however, were tempted by the specials’ tortellini, because Omar had recently discovered Korean black garlic tastes fabulous with his Taleggio cheese sauce.

He was right – in fact, I could have done with more of the sweet little slivers of tarblack garlic, but they certainly brought out the flavour of the crisp pancetta and meat stuffed inside the little al dente parcels of pasta. A delicious option at Rp.120,000.

The focus here is on the authentic Italian charcoal grill, installed for your viewing pleasure along one side of the restaurant.

There’s no wood and no gas involved– it’s all charcoal, so as the flames lick upwards, offset by the deep Tuscan red of the dining room’s walls and napery, you know you’re in for a treat.

Just as good was the Risotto alla Montanara (Rp.100,000), with homemade sausage, porcini mushrooms and truffle oil. This was as it should be: unctuously full-flavoured; and it’s a good price for those ingredients. The size of the pastas and risottos are easily enough for a main course, but we had bigger fish – and meat – to fry. The charcoal grill beckoned.

We started with antipasti. From the specials menu, we enjoyed a whole breaded and baked goat’s cheese (Rp.140,000), which oozed out onto generous piles of earthy parma ham – a simple combination which proves good quality ingredients is half the battle. We also tried the traditional Parmigiana di Zucchinie e Melanzane (Rp.73,000), a layered aubergine, courgette, tomato and mozzarella dish, which was homely and satisfying.

The chefs can prepare a classic Fiorentina steak (give them a day’s notice during the week), but there is also Wagyu rib-eye and Black Angus tenderloin – all great options for charcoal grilling. We went for a Sunday lunch classic: lamb chops (Rp.190,000).

Perfectly cooked, they were soft and juicy with a lemony twang offset by the smoky charcoal. They came with veggies and some incredibly moreish cubed, rosemary potatoes.

Antipasti is usually followed by pasta or risotto, and Omar explained how they make their own pasta with a chitarra (‘guitar’); an old-style method. With this, the kitchen can usually whip up any classic pasta dish

Fish is often overlooked at grill joints, but happily Cantina 18˚ offers a comprehensive marine selection. They usually have fresh lobster or crab from Lombok, but right after Lebaran is prime growing season, so

the fishermen are not allowed to catch yet.

Instead, swordfish, snapper or salmon are good choices. We went for mixed seafood grill (Rp.160,000) which boasted a huge, sweet jumbo prawn, very soft squid skewers, and lovely fillet of firm white fish. These were breadcrumbed prior to grilling, and very tasty. The same delicious potatoes also came with creamed garlic spinach – solid grill sides, well executed.

It was great to see the owners doing something a little different with their wines – especially by the glass. The usual Sauv Blancs and Chardonnays found in Jakarta eateries are shoved aside for the more interesting, delicate Italian white Orvieto (Rp.85,000), which was a decent match for the seafood. For red, there’s a delicious Negroamaro Paololeo (Rp.90,000), an uncommon grape that went particularly well with the Taleggio tortellini. They also offer organic wines.

What would an Italian feast be without dessert favourite tiramisu? Every family has their version, and in this one, (Rp.50,000) presented in a martini glass, each element could be distinctly savoured without detracting from the creamy, decadent whole. Affogato (ice cream drenched in espresso, Rp.45,000) is a nice, lighter alternative.

All in all, if you’re looking for decent family fare of good ingredients, cooked with love and care, Cantina 18˚ serves it up just like Mamma used to, and makes for a great new addition to Jakarta’s Italian dining scene.

ADVERTISING FEATURE

RAJA AMPAT

PARADISE IN EASTERN INDONESIA Then there is Misool, one of the four main islands of Raja Ampat. Bordering the Seram Sea, Misool has become a habitat for large marine life, including whales. Besides whales, there are giant manta rays, mobula rays, barracuda, wobbegong sharks, and dolphins.You’ll also have the chance to meet ghost pipefish, the deadly blue-ringed octopus, frogfish, pygmy seahorses, mandarin fish, and thousands of other fish species.

Papua is the largest island in Indonesia, abundant with glorious natural resources from top to bottom. Although mountains dominate this region, Papua possesses magnificent underwater marine life. In fact, the underwater world is renowned worldwide. Sea-addicts oftentimes come here to witness its splendour, especially the beauty of Raja Ampat.

Raja Ampat is an archipelago comprising over 1,500 small islands, cays, and shoals surrounding the islands. Located off the northwest tip of the bird’s head peninsula of Papua, Raja Ampat is a nirvana for diving enthusiasts. As a matter of fact, the Conservation International Marine Survey has recorded Raja Ampat’s marine biodiversity as the highest in the world.

At Misool, land activities include hiking around the island and exploring the deep mangrove forests accompanied by a tour guide who will happily show you the best spots of the island. Aside from the tour guide, you will also be accompanied by countless species of birds, including hornbills and the Bird of Paradise. Meet the friendly local people while you are exploring the land of Misool and you will feel like home.

Even though Raja Ampat has become very famous over the past few years, many people still wonder how to get there. There are many tours from Jakarta that you can book through the Internet. All you have to do is relax and enjoy your trip. But if you want to manage your own trip, you can buy airline tickets to Sorong and embark from Sorong to Raja Ampat via boat for anywhere from 1-5 hours, depending on where you choose to stay.

Since Raja Ampat consists of many small islands, island hopping is a must. Don’t worry, you will not be bored onboard since you will be mesmerised by many captivating sceneries. Light blue skies, crystal blue waters, or rock karsts will accompany your journey. When you can see many rock karsts, you’ll know that you are arriving at the famous Wayag Island.

From the peak of the rock karsts, beautiful and iconic scenery can be found – great for photos. Back at sea level, take off your footwear and let your feet feel the soft white sand that surrounds Wayag Island. Under the surface, 155,000 hectares is home to the Kalabia fish, a peculiar fish of Raja Ampat.

Since Raja Ampat is home to many kinds of coral and fish species, so make sure you discover them by diving or snorkelling.You can enjoy diving or snorkelling in countless different spots, each with their own uniqueness. If you are a coral lover, dive or snorkel at Jef Fam Islands or Melissa’s Garden. If you want to swim together with manta rays, come to Dampier Strait.

Interested in having a liveaboard holiday in Raja Ampat? Spice Island Charters are pleased to organise an unforgettable journey with English-speaking services. Please contact us for further details. Tel: (+62)21 57903975 or call Milia (+62)8977187616.

Summer seasons will be the best time to visit this region, however October and November are the best months to catch a glimpse of large schools of bait fish, which in turn attract bigger fish and mobula rays. Meanwhile, May and June are dominated with south winds which will bring sharks.

Although Raja Ampat is spellbinding and will give you memories that will last a lifetime, your journey will be more memorable and special if you are spending it on a liveaboard. A liveaboard holiday is highly recommended so that you can spend more time on the water and enjoy various dive sites more easily.

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EXPAT LIFESTYLE MEET THE EXPAT Bill Dalton has been writing travel features, book reviews, interviews and guidebooks about Indonesia for more than 40 years. Bill lives on a farm with his Indonesian family deep in the countryside of west Bali.

Raja Ampat Dive Pioneers

Meet Burt Jones & Maurine Shimlock Throughout Indonesia and the wider diving world, Burt Jones and Maurine Shimlock are known as the people who put Raja Ampat’s dive sites on top of most travelling divers’ bucket lists, with the publication of two dive guides.

By Bill Dalton | All images by Jones/Shimlock - Secret Sea Visions

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weather these days. But in southern Raja, for instance, Misool Eco resort closes in June and opens in October. Northern Raja is OK year-round, maybe a bit windy and rainy at times, but still fine. Cenderawasih Bay is also good year-round once you are down deep in the bay. Getting from Sorong to Manokwari is problematic in the north-west monsoon. Most boats that ply Cenderawasih do it in the off-season, June to September. Triton Bay (Kaimana) is the same as Raja; it’s best to avoid the area during the south-east monsoon season.

he ground-breaking Diving Indonesia's Raja Ampat by Burt Jones and Maurine Shimlock, published in 2009 under the auspices of Conservation International, is a compilation of over 130 dive site descriptions, as well as travel information, background essays on biodiversity, conservation and the people who inhabit this unique region.

Diving Indonesia's Bird's Head Seascape, published in 2011, describes more than 200 sites to dive and explore in the world's most bio-diverse tropical reefs system.

This guide is a must for divers and other adventurers planning a trip to West Papua's Bird's Head Seascape, the ‘Holy Grail’ of marine diversity.

How are you getting the word out internationally? What has been done besides your diving guide to publicise tourism opportunities in the Bird’s Head?

After Conservation International published the dive guide in 2011, we all realised that we needed an internet presence. Together with Dr. Mark Erdmann, who has led CI’s Bird’s Head Program since its inception and is now VP for CI’s Asia Pacific Marine Programmes, we developed a website (www.birdsheadseascape.com) to build local and international coverage of the BHS to benefit conservation, scientific research, regional events and sustainable tourism development.

Why did you expand your original work to include Cenderawasih Bay and Triton Bay? It had been nearly a decade since Conservation International conducted its initial marine survey of Raja Ampat. Our first guide, Diving Indonesia’s Raja Ampat was sold out, and we wanted to introduce divers and anyone interested in the marine environment to the wealth of sites that existed in Raja Ampat’s neighbouring regions of Cenderawasih and Triton Bays.

Your guide is titled Diving Indonesia’s Bird’s Head Seascape. What’s a seascape?

The marine area of West Papua that we surveyed is very large, more than 183,000 square kilometres. NGOs working in the region have defined it as a seascape since 2004 because of its extremely high biological diversity, ecological and economic connectivity and aesthetic and cultural value. Scientists have recorded unprecedented numbers of fish species: we’re up to 1,757 distinct fish species in the BHS – a new world record.

How are these efforts doing?

Within a year of launch we’ve reached more than 15,000 unique users, triple the print run of the dive guide! The site also houses an important library of the scientific work about the region as well as most of the media coverage. We’ve archived Shawn Heinrichs’s wonderful ‘Guardians of Raja Ampat’ movie, and posted portfolios from internationally renowned photographers including Dr. Alex Mustard and Roger Steene. Our BHS Facebook page has over 1,000 ‘likes’. We encourage everyone to visit the website and engage with BHS on Facebook.

We know that Raja Ampat is one of the world’s premier dive destinations. Give me a quick summary of what divers and snorkelers might see in Cenderawasih?

Cenderawasih Bay is Indonesia’s largest marine area with over 1.5 million hectares officially protected since 2002. Because of its unique geological development, many fish species have evolved in isolation and exhibit different traits from similar species that thrive outside of the bay. But what draws most tourists to Cenderawasih is the opportunity to swim with whale sharks, the largest fish in the sea. There is an area in southwest Cenderawasih where whale sharks feed on baitfish attracted by local lift-net fishing vessels known as bagan. Unlike most other places where luck has everything to do with whale shark sightings, in Cenderawasih seeing whale sharks is almost a guaranteed experience.

through gigantic limestone caves and experience village life whilst staying at a myriad of homestays. The important thing is for people from Indonesia and elsewhere to get out to the Bird’s Head and immerse themselves in a region that’s still wild. Nature-based tourism supports a sustainable local economy and defends this unique place against extractive industries like mining and commercial fishing.

Give us an idea of some recent, pertinent posts.

We try to keep up with tourism developments like the new entry fee structure and any new infrastructure developments. For instance, a new resort has opened recently in Triton Bay so divers and snorkelers who don’t like boats can enjoy this region (www.tritonbaydivers. com). We have a whale shark video up now that goes along with Dr. Mark Erdmann’s blog about new methods of tagging and tracking whale sharks. In the Bahasa Indonesia news section we have a post about the new fairy wrasse species, Cirrhilabrus marinda, named for the Bupati and Vice Bupati of Raja Ampat.

Additionally, the website has all of the dive site maps with images from each site and information for travellers, including when to go and where to stay.

What’s the best time to visit?

The best time is October–April when the south-east monsoon winds are not blowing, although it’s hard to predict the

Diving Indonesia's Bird's Head Seascape may be purchased at Periplus and Ganesha bookstores.

Why is Triton Bay also included in the book?

What’s so special about it?

Triton Bay is totally different. The abundance of rainfall and multiple large 16

Indonesia expat issue 147

The important thing is for people from Indonesia and elsewhere to get out to the Bird’s Head and immerse themselves in a region that’s still wild. rivers emptying into the sea in this region means a lot of fresh water makes its way over the reefs. Hard coral doesn’t thrive as well, but soft corals love the mix! Triton Bay’s soft coral gardens are simply mindblowing! But we have also found many interesting smaller animals, ‘critters’ if you will, that make diving around Triton Bay fascinating and extremely varied.

What else attracts tourists to this region?

The list is endless! Besides diving and snorkelling, there are fabulous kayaking and bird-watching opportunities. People can look at millennia-old rock art, tube

EXPAT LIFESTYLE

HISTORY Martin comes from England but has spent most of his adult life abroad. Wary investor, keen traveller, writer also.

The Big Apple and the Spice Islands For whatever reason, New York picked up the appellation ‘Big Apple’ – is it even appropriate?

Unbeknownst to most people, and as a result of a remarkable twist in fate, the city’s fortunes actually owe far more to some exotic tropical spices in Indonesia than they do to the humble apple.

By Martin Jenkins

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he spices in question are nutmeg and mace. Both come from the nutmeg tree, native to a tiny chain of islands called the Banda islands, which themselves are part of a larger group of islands called the Moluccas, or Spice Islands – a chain of islands in the vast Indonesian archipelago. Today, the Banda islands are largely forgotten and sometimes even omitted from maps of the region. But this common oversight belies their huge importance in times gone by, due to their indigenous nutmeg trees.

Although exotic spices from the Spice Islands had been traded for thousands of years, it was not until around the thirteenth century when they started to become popular in Europe. For 300 years up to around 1500, the Venetians dominated the European trade in nutmeg and mace – as well as other exotic spices from the Spice Islands such as cloves – since they controlled the Mediterranean seaways.

Venice became very rich as these spices were in high demand in Europe and could attract astronomical prices. Nutmeg in particular was highly valued; the sweettasting spice was used as a hallucinogen and aphrodisiac. Meanwhile cloves, which have a distinctly pungent flavour, were revered for their medicinal properties. Not only did physicians believe they could cure the common cold and settle an upset stomach, but they could also improve poor eyesight!

The Venetians themselves obtained the spices from merchants in the Middle East, who kept their sources a closely guarded secret. But the Venetians’ monopoly could not last forever. Indeed, the potential rewards for discovering the source of these increasingly valuable spices provided a great incentive for European explorers to unravel the mysteries of the unexplored lands in the southern hemisphere. Portugal took a leading role in this respect, and in charting the route around the southern tip of Africa, accidentally discovered the coast of Brazil in 1500.

By 1511, a Portuguese fleet commanded

by Alfonso de Albuquerque reached the strategically important port of Malacca on the Malaysian peninsula where the spices from the Spice Islands were brought to be traded. Among those on board was the legendary explorer Ferdinand Magellan, famous for later leading the first true circumnavigation of the globe, even though he didn’t actually make it back to Europe (he was killed in a brutal fight while trying to set up a trading post in the Philippines).

The Portuguese finally reached the Spice Islands in 1512. This was their pot of gold at the end of the rainbow: even when paying inflated prices for the spices to the local natives, they could still expect to reap profits of up to a phenomenal 1,000 percent when selling them back in Europe.

The Portuguese were naturally ecstatic at their success, and to safeguard their newly found sources of riches from the competing

Bana Neira from the book Geologische Beschrijvingen van de Banda-Eilanden by Dr. R.D.M. Verbeek, published in 1901. Courtesy of Bartele Gallery

control over the Banda islands.

Somehow, the English, under the resourceful and determined spice trader Nathaniel Courthope, had managed to establish a foothold on the tiny island of Run where they quickly erected forts to protect the island from the watchful Dutch.

However, the presence of the English on this island was a thorn in the side of the Dutch governor-general of the East Indies Jan Pieterszoon Coen – even though both sides were technically allies, united in their common hatred of the Spanish. By all accounts a ruthless and bloodthirsty man, he set his sights on sending his unwelcome British neighbours packing. This did not take him long. He quickly captured two English ships and ordered the British to surrender. Although Courthope refused the request, his courage did not get him far: he was shot while trying to flee from the Dutch some time later.

New Amsterdam aka Manhattan in 1667

Kaartje van de Bandasche Eilanden by Jacob Keiser circa 1734.

Courtesy of Bartele Gallery

Spanish, they built forts across the Molucca islands, many of which can still be seen today.

But the lucrative spice trade had also caught the attention of other European powers, most notably England and Holland.

Although the Portuguese held onto the islands for a while after, the Dutch managed to wrest control of them by 1605. But the English hadn’t given up their aspirations either. Indeed, explorers from both countries made many attempts at identifying alternate routes to the Spice Islands. The arduous two-year journey east from Europe often ended in disaster, with ship crews decimated by scurvy and other deadly diseases.

One of the European explorers keen to locate the Spice Islands was Henry Hudson.

Although English, he had been recruited by the Dutch. But after failing to find a northeast passage to Asia via the Arctic Ocean and North Pole in 1608, his ship sailed further east and ended up exploring the east coast of North America, even sailing for a distance up the Hudson River that now bears his name. He brought back news of fertile lands on his return to Holland, and the Dutch later sent more missions, eventually establishing a permanent presence in the area in 1614. Not long after, amid the threat of attacks by other European colonial powers, the Dutch constructed a fort to protect their trading post at the southern tip of what is today Manhattan.

Little could Hudson have realised then the significance of his voyage to the Americas!

Meanwhile, in the Spice Islands, the Dutch had won the upper hand over the English.

But even so, they did not have exclusive

But in 1624 the Dutch went one step too far. On Ambon Island, the Dutch unfairly accused the entire contingent of English traders of engineering a mutiny. As was

As part of the deal, the English agreed to give up their interest in the island of Run in exchange for the Dutch island of Manhattan in North America.

Nieuwe Caart of Eylanden Banda by Francios Valentyn circa 1726. Courtesy of Bartele Gallery

The Treaty of Breda in 1667

the fashion of the time, these unfortunate traders were soon beheaded after their confessions were drummed out of them through particularly outlandish methods of torture. News of the outrage soon filtered back to England, where there was a public outcry. Feelings ran so high for a time that the Dutch even had to recall their ambassador. But after much heated debate, the Dutch finally relented and agreed to hand back the island of Run to the English.

Nevertheless, the peace did not last long.

By 1660 the English and Dutch had gone to war after the former passed the controversial Navigation Act that sought to protect England's trade by requiring all goods imported to England to be carried on English vessels. Putting an end to the hostilities was the Treaty of Breda in 1667.

As part of the deal, the English agreed to give up their interest in the island of Run in exchange for the Dutch island of Manhattan in North America.

Even though the English thought they got the better deal, they could not have imagined – even in their wildest dreams – that they were now in possession of what was to become the world’s most influential and important city. So, if anyone ever asks you about New York’s nickname, why not suggest that perhaps the ‘Sweet Nutmeg’ would be far more appropriate? issue 147 Indonesia expat

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It’s All About the Money President Joko Widodo came to power on promises to fight corruption and initiate a mental revolution, but scammers are still finding hundreds of people willing to pay bribes in the hope of becoming civil servants.

By Kenneth Yeung

Civil servants in Indonesia

Administrative and Bureaucratic Reform Minister Yuddy Chrisnandi

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hy pay a bribe to become a lowpaid civil servant? Because once in the job, you can augment your meagre salary by being corrupt.

This can be seen at various government offices, where some officials will only provide a service if a bribe is paid.

For example, a friend of mine visited the police after she was scammed in a real estate deal, only to be told she would have to pay for an investigation report.

The sad state of the Indonesian bureaucracy is reflected by the fact that at least 780 people in West Java province recently paid bribes ranging from Rp.50 million to Rp.100 million in the expectation of gaining positions in the civil service, mostly as teachers and nurses. Some of the victims said they had sold property or borrowed to raise the funds.

Police have so far arrested four people over the swindle. Two of the suspects are civil servants, including an employee of the Finance Ministry’s Treasury Office in Bandung. The fraudsters used forged “letters of assignment” for civil service jobs across several cities. Police said one of the perpetrators had collected about Rp.7 billion. The four face charges of fraud, embezzlement and falsification of documents, which carry a collective jail term of 29 years.

The fraud was uncovered on July 29 when the three of the swindlers invited the victims to a hotel in the West Java capital of Bandung and asked 420 of them to sign a sheet for the processing of the promised employment. Many of the recruits then visited the nearby local office of the National Civil Service Agency (BKN) to inquire about their jobs. BKN officers broke the news that there were no jobs. Police were then called to detain the scammers.

The Ministry of Administrative and Bureaucratic Reform said the arrests should serve as a wake-up call to people that they cannot use brokers to buy jobs.

The ministry’s head of information and public service, Herman Suryatman, said the fraud had tarnished the bureaucratic reform process.

The level of fraud was surprising, given that the Government in January imposed a five-year moratorium on the recruitment of civil servants in an effort to reduce the state’s notoriously inefficient bureaucracy.

Kenneth Yeung is a Jakarta-based editor

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Administrative and Bureaucratic Reform Minister Yuddy Chrisnandi said the moratorium had been requested by Vice President Jusuf Kalla to improve efficiency and reduce wasteful spending on civil servants’ salaries.

The Hong Kong-based Political and Economic Risk Consultancy (PERC) has rated Indonesia as having the second worst bureaucracy in Asia, after India.

The moratorium doesn’t mean that no civil servants will be recruited. There are exemptions for hiring teachers, lecturers, health workers and law enforcement personnel. “But this is done selectively,” said Yuddy, adding that only governors, mayors and regents could apply to make recruitments. Government ministries and agencies are supposed to undergo an organisational audit to determine whether they have enough staff or need more recruits.

Yuddy, a member of ex-general Wiranto’s Hanura Party, said police should unmask the perpetrators of the recent fraud and return all of the money to the victims. He added that any state officials involved in recruitment scams will be fired – if they are convicted of fraud. So far, police have identified the suspects only by their initials.

The minister said it was easy for people to become victims of fraud, partly because not everyone has access to information in the media. He said Indonesian society has become too oriented toward civil service jobs, whereas the spirit of entrepreneurship remains low, and there are insufficient job vacancies in the business sector.

He urged people not to be fooled by scammers, emphasising that any efforts by agents to lure people to apply for civil service jobs are all a big lie. He said that although teachers and medical personnel are still urgently needed in some areas, they can only be recruited through official mechanisms and procedures in accordance with regulations. In other words, bribes should not be paid to secure a job.

Compared to other Southeast Asian countries, Indonesia does not have a huge civil service. There were about 4.46 million civil servants in 2013, including some 500,000 military and police. That leaves about 4 million public servants – under 2 percent of the country’s population of 250 million people. Despite the relatively low ratio, the civil service is a drain on the state budget. Much of the funding for development and education programmes ends up going on administrative expenses.

According to the Indonesian Forum for Budget Transparency, spending on civil servants’ salaries increased by Rp.43.6

trillion in 2014 from the previous year, compared to an increase of only Rp.13.2 trillion in development spending.

Some government departments seem to be fond of initiating change for the sake of change and additional funding, rather than for improving service. For example, Immigration offices recently changed the process for visa applications and extensions.

It now takes a lot longer and costs more to extend a visa. Filling out a visa form, collecting stamps from different officials and paying can take seven hours if an Immigration office is in snail mode. The last time I complained about this, I was told that I could simply “use an agent” to get the job done faster. In other words, pay above the official costs so that a go-between can bribe civil servants to do their job.

There are banners outside Immigration offices, exhorting people not to use the services of agents – yet there are still many agents there, handing over bribes.

There are many genuine attempts at positive reform, but these sometimes seem to be sabotaged. For example, visitors to some government agencies are supposed to take an electronically printed number and wait in a queue to be called – so that service will be based on arrival time, rather than bribes. But in many buildings, these electronic number dispensers are broken for months at a time.

Indonesia’s high level of bureaucratic red tape is a significant impediment to much needed foreign investment and infrastructure development. The Hong Kong-based Political and Economic Risk Consultancy (PERC) has rated Indonesia as having the second worst bureaucracy in Asia, after India. PERC noted that some bureaucracies have become power centres in their own right, enabling them to resist reform efforts made by politicians and officials.

Efforts have been made to curb bureaucratic waste, such as banning government officials from holding taxpayer-funded meetings in hotels, but as long as people still think civil service jobs are based on bribes rather than merit, there remains much room for improvement.

issue 147 Indonesia expat

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EXPAT OUTREACH SPORTS Antony is a freelance writer based in Jakarta.

Please send comments and suggestions to antony@the-spiceislands.com

Persipura Jayapura's

Long Road to Success The Black Pearls overcome long flights and tiring transit times to become the best football club in the land.

By Antony Sutton

F

or cash-starved Indonesian football clubs, the Mandala Stadium in Jayapura isn’t the easiest place to get to. Not all clubs can afford the luxury of direct flights; for many it involves at least one change, maybe even more, and the one-way journey can take 24 hours. A long journey for anyone, let alone professional footballers with muscles that need frequent stretching and exercising. And all that way just to lose!

The 30,000 capacity Mandala Stadium is home to Indonesia’s most successful club, Persipura Jayapura.

Since the Indonesia Super League started in 2008/2009 they have been crowned champions three times and finished runners-up three times. In that time, they have never finished lower than second, a remarkable achievement no matter what the league. And of course, all the more remarkable considering every away game they play includes serious travelling across time zones and islands.

Papuan to the core, Persipura bring a stability that is all too rare in Indonesian football. The last seven years have seen just two coaches take control of the team; Brazilians Jacksen F. Tiago and more recently Osvaldo Lessa, who has been with the club in varying capacities since 2009.

The Papuan core is evident when the team takes to the field in their distinctive red and black striped shirts. Their teamsheet features names such as Boas Solossa, Immanuel Wannggai, Ruben Sanadi, Yohanes Pahabol, Ian Lousi Kabes and Dominggus Fakdawer while Eduard Ivakdalam is looked upon as a Papuan Steven Gerrard; a longserving one-club-man where he spent 16 years. Australian midfielder Robbie Gaspar, who spent several years playing in Indonesia, certainly rated the ever calm Ivakdalam. “He was great technically, had a great left foot and knew how to dictate the tempo of the game,” recalled the former Sabah player. “I know all the players looked up to him for advice.”

Even the foreign players that arrive tend to stick around for a while; Cameroonian Bio Paulin once played for RC Lens in France but ended up in Jayapura back in 2007 and has been there ever since. He has now become an Indonesian citizen and made his debut for the national side earlier in the year.

Without a doubt, the best-known player is Boas Solossa. Only Ivakdalam has played more games for the Black Pearls but no one has scored more goals. Boas, whose uncle was a one-time governor of the province of Papua, made his debut when he was 18 and has been a first choice for club and country ever since, subject to the odd injury.

Known for his blistering pace and eye for goal, Boas soon attracted the attention of foreign clubs but has stayed loyal to his roots until now. Injuries have perhaps knocked half a yard off his speed, but he still has enough in the locker to beat most defenders – the last two seasons have seen him score 41 goals in 62 games, a more than healthy return by any standard.

While Persipura have remained masters of all they survey in the Indonesian football scene, their fortunes in Asian club football have been less spectacular. Their first foray into the continent’s premier club competition, the AFC Champions League, was nothing short of a humiliation, losing five of their six games and conceding 29 goals along the way to finishing joint bottom of the four-team group.

Forced to play their home games in distant Jakarta, things started badly when they were comfortably defeated 4-1

by South Korean side Jeonbuk Hyundai Motors. Things got much worse in their second game when they were roundly thrashed 9-0 by Chinese side Changchun Yatai in China. That result was to be Changchun’s only win in the tournament and they were to only score one more goal in their remaining four games.

For Persipura there was nowhere to hide. Up next was a trip to Japan and another heavy defeat, going down 5-0 to Kashima Antlers. Halfway through the group stage and

While Persipura have remained masters of all they survey in the Indonesian football scene, their fortunes in Asian club football have been less spectacular.

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Indonesia expat issue 147

the Black Pearls were disappearing under an avalanche of goals from Northeast Asian sides.

Hosting the Japanese side in Jakarta a week later, at least Persipura got on the score sheet, however Yustinus Pae’s effort was little consolation in a 3-1 reverse. Their second game took them to South Korea and another mauling, Boas Solossa this time 8-0 against Jeonbuk Hyundai Motors with ex-Middlesbrough and Werder Bremen striker Lee Dong Gook among the scorers.

Victory over Changchun Yatai in their final game by 2-0 was not even a relief. Persipura had been tested at the highest levels and found severely wanting.

They were back in the competition in 2012 but this time they never got out of the qualifying round, going down 3-0 in a playoff against Adelaide United.

They have found better luck in the AFC Cup, reaching the semi-finals in 2014. We will never know how far they could have got a year later. Drawn against Malaysian side Pahang, the visitors got as far as Jakarta before returning home after finding a number of their foreign players were refused admittance to Indonesia because they didn’t have the correct visa.

The AFC responded by awarding the tie 3-0 to Pahang, effectively ending Persipura’s involvement, and soon after, FIFA suspended Indonesia from any of its authorised competitions, including the AFC Cup, over alleged government interference in the sport.

FIFA’s suspension ended the 2015 Indonesia Super League with Persipura in second place after two games played. For now the future remains uncertain, not just for Indonesian football but also the country’s most successful club. It is hard not to feel some sympathy for the players and the supporters of this club, deprived as they have been not by the efforts on the pitch, but by the failings-over off of it.

A promising season dashed.

There is talk of the Indonesian Super League resuming later in the year with October being mooted. Should that happen, and there are still a lot of bridges to be crossed and obstacles to be overcome, then Persipura will at least do their best to carry on from where they left off with a core of familiar names waiting to be unleashed.

EXPAT OUTREACH ENVIRONMENT

Development Vs Indigenous People and the Environment Over the past 50 years, the name of the region of Papua has been changed several times from Netherlands New Guinea to Irian Barat (West Irian), Irian Jaya (Victorious or Prosperous Irian), then in 2002, the name Papua was taken on; a year later followed by splitting this province into Papua and West Papua. In 2014, the population was 4.4million people; 3.5million in Papua Province and 864,000 in West Papua. While in 1961 the indigenous share of the total population was nearly 100 percent, the current distribution is about 50/50 due to the large influx of migrants from other parts of the country.

Hans Rooseboom is a long-term resident of Jakarta, who has visited nearly all of Indonesia's provinces and worked for many years in Indonesia. He now enjoys a leisurely life, writing his blogs and other articles.

By Hans Rooseboom

F

or past centuries, the name of the indigenous inhabitants of Papua has been and still is Papuans.

The naming of the individual clans is, however, not as clear-cut, at least when consulting historical records. Surprisingly, many of the clan names listed in the Encyclopaedie van Nederlandsch-Indië of 1917 do not match those used today. Two clans inhabiting the southern slopes of the central mountains, for instance, are listed as the Tapiro and the Pesechem, while there is no mention of the Amungme or the Kamoro; and neither of the Asmat farther east. This can partly be explained by the fact that most of the surveys and expeditions in the 19th century were ship-based with occasional ventures into the nearinterior of coastal areas. This thus clearly excludes the Dani of the Baliem Valley from the 1917 records.

As over 250 different languages are spoken in the Papua region, one wonders how these surveyors and researchers of old did communicate with the different clans and collect such a wide range of data, as the Malay lingua franca had probably reached but a few of the clans. And in the case of the Asmat, one only needs to visualise the slow approach of the research vessel, cautiously probing the depths for sunken obstacles, when out of a hidden estuary a dozen or so war canoes appear with fierce-looking, painted warriors, paddling standing-up, and aggressively chanting. A good enough reason to swing the helm round and look for a friendlier and more approachable tribe.

As for the Amungme, although not mentioned in the 1917 encyclopaedia, the first contact with European explorers was already in 1912. The next encounter was with the Carstensz expedition of 1936, when the geologist Jean Jacque Dozy discovered the ‘copper’ mountain Ertsberg.

Catholic missionaries followed in the early 50s, converting the majority of the Amungme.

In 1970, a major interference with their lives did occur when the American Mining Company Freeport-McMoran started the construction of the highway from the coast to the mining site on the Carstensz plateau. The permission to start mining had been granted by the Government on 7 April 1967, thus sparking conflict between development and indigenous people.

It occurs globally: economic development measured in terms of growth of GDP and traditional lifestyles

of human beings are not really compatible. In other words, we witness a clash of modernisation and traditional cultural practices.

The modernising bit is the mining the natural resources of an area—a very destructive process. That is, its water, forests, minerals and fossil fuels become basic ingredients to create value added in downstream industries, often in another region.

The traditional cultural practices are the ones that respect and want to preserve nature. The Amungme, for instance, strive to maintain the harmony among the three elements of life: humankind, the natural environment, and the spirit of the ancestors.

Conflict is then exacerbated when the original inhabitants are all but excluded from sharing in the profits of modernisation. This now seems to have happened in the case of the Amungme and Kamoro.

Planning and preparing the mining of the enormous copper and gold deposits – first on Ertsberg, and when that site was depleted, on Grasberg where the mining operations are now concentrated – was apparently done without consulting the tribes. And the by-product of the mining operation is that the Amungme saw their sacred mountain losing its top and their tobacco fields and hunting grounds damaged, while the Kamoro had their rivers polluted as some 200,000 tonnes of waste is dumped there each day! And the pledged educational and health facilities did not materialise as promised.

Lack of transparency in the land acquisition process continued for a long time. Kamoro and Amungme leaders report that community members understood only in 1995 that they had conceded all ancestral lands in the Timika area (nearly 1m hectares) to the Government to accommodate the Freeport company town, Kuala Kencana; the town of Timika; and transmigration settlements.

This is fairly typical for extractive industries operating in indigenous areas and has contributed to the opinion that these businesses are mainly interested in maximizing their profits. To a certain extent that is undoubtedly true;

Its 2010 annual report shows that the company made USD4.2 billion in operating profit on a revenue of USD6.4 billion, and that since 1996 the company allocated USD602.2m to a partnership fund set up for the Amungme and Kamoro tribes.

short-term shareholders' interests being the driving force.

Moreover, government interests do not counterbalance these biases for reason that a goose laying golden eggs had best not be repudiated.

From 1992 to 2013, under the 1991 Contract of Work, the company has paid to the Government of Indonesia USD9.4 billion in corporate income tax, USD3 billion in other taxes, USD1.5 billion in royalties and USD1.3 billion in dividends, or a total of USD15.2 billion. Impressive figures and a highly welcome bolster for the Indonesian economy.

Most websites dealing with the operations of Freeport Indonesia cry out against the damages inflicted on the tribes, the ancestral lands and the environment. It should, however, be emphasised that the clans are not exactly the easiest and most willing and cooperative partners in negotiations to reach a mutually acceptable strategy to overcome the problems.

The Amungme and Kamoro are just two of at least 252 Papuan ethnic groups, each with its own language, traditions and culture. Inter-tribal strife further adds to the confusion and misunderstandings. This splintering is most likely due to the uncompromising terrain of their homeland – steep inaccessible mountains, deep valleys and coastal swamps – which has restricted views, and confined communication to the fellow clansmen. Agreements reached previously are often negated in a subsequent meeting. And the lack of a unified tribal voice makes reaching and accepting collective developmental goals all but impossible.

Freeport's 2010 annual report shows that the company made USD4.2 billion in operating profit on a revenue of USD6.4 billion, and that since 1996 the company allocated USD602.2m to a partnership fund set up for the Amungme and Kamoro people—the Amungme and Kamoro People's Development Organisation (LPMAK). Freeport has obviously tried. But as there might be another 200 years of mining Grasberg ahead, it would be wise to try harder and make serious efforts to include the indigenous people.

Triton Bay by Louis Le Breton circa 1846

The mission of LPMAK is the development and management of institutions to empower indigenous people. The basic ingredients seem therefore to be in place, but the results are not really satisfying. Why? Is the sum insufficient, or are the players, Papuans and Freeport, lacking in skills and organisational structure to generate improvements? What enhancements are needed?

And where should the region be heading? Unfortunately unanswered questions remain. It is the Papuans who must find an answer, and Freeport must be more accommodating. issue 147 Indonesia expat

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EXPAT OUTREACH WORTHY CAUSES

communities room to contribute to the advancement of the nation, and mutual connectivity with the central government.

Rights as Citizens

When the community tries to communicate these problems to the Government, their cries fall on deaf ears. This is unlikely to change soon, due (amongst other things) to mapping problems in indigenous territory. In order for community-participative mapping to be recognised, representatives of the Government must be present throughout the process – and yet when invited, the Government is often reluctant to attend.

Additionally, concession holders are often urban Batak who have land rights by clan relations, but have little, if any, regard for clan rights as a community.

The Strife for Reconciliation of Indonesia’s Indigenous Communities With nearly 70 years of independence, Indonesia prides itself as a nation founded upon the sovereignty and self-determination of peoples who call the Nusantara archipelago their ancestral homeland. Unfortunately, the same Indonesia tends to discriminate against and criminalise indigenous communities whose lifestyles and livelihoods may clash with the dominant society’s interests.

By Grace Susetyo

Candido Mezua, president of the National Coordinating Body of Indigenous Peoples in Panama said that reconciliation in his country was achieved through 90 years of struggle and 74 years of war. This was coloured by discrimination, criminalisation and even bloodbaths not unlike those which happen in Indonesia. Today, 22% of Panama’s land is recognised as indigenous territory, but 11% is still in dispute.

H

andcrafted Films’ documentary If Not Us Then Who? follows various indigenous people whose livelihoods and cultures depend directly on the local forests. “These peoples exhibit the same level of passion, commitment and sacrifice to protect forests all over the world and fight the uphill battle against big industries,” said project director Paul Redman, a long-time forestry activist and award-nominated filmmaker.

Working together with the Alliance of the Indigenous Peoples of Nusantara (AMAN), Handcrafted Films screened If Not Us Then Who? in Jakarta. Indigenous leaders from Indonesia and abroad were invited to tell their stories of fighting for their peoples’ dignities and right to live as citizens of countries ruled by capitalist interests.

Compiled over two years by means of community participation in various parts of Indonesia and Latin America, a segment of the film tells the story of Tobelo Dalam, an ethnic group of Halmahera, North Maluku.

is no concession license over it. It is not unusual for a forest area to be claimed by two to three conflicting concession licenses, in most cases illegal. When indigenous people are without papers, it makes them defenceless before legal entities who want something from their land and have the power to manipulate the law to suit their interests.

While Tobelo Dalam have a real dependence on forest resources for their nomadic subsistence farming and hunter-gatherer lifestyle, the Government takes liberty in granting exploitation rights of their land to corporations, mostly mines and oil palm plantations. With the help of AMAN and Cipta Media Seluler, Tobelo Dalam now implement an SMS monitoring system to control illegal logging, and are working on mapping their customary ancestral forests to make the case for their rights to land and natural resources.

According to AMAN, Indonesia still has 70 million hectares of customary forest, including 40 million hectares of primary and secondary forests. But just because a forest looks pristine, it doesn’t mean that there Dua Tangan Cukup

an indigenous person without land is a dead indigenous person

Because many indigenous minorities still practice ancestral religions, many cannot get national ID cards (KTP), marriage certificates, and birth certificates. Their children cannot go to school and they miss out on their rights as citizens – discriminated against and criminalised by the very state that’s supposed to guarantee their access to public services.

“For 70 years, Indonesia has committed to protect the rights of indigenous communities. But for 70 years as well, our indigenous communities have been ignored,” said Abdon Nababan, secretary general of AMAN. AMAN aims to help indigenous people get legal papers and map customary ancestral homelands in order to gain legal status.

Though the RUU Masyarakat Adat (Indigenous Minorities Bill) is scheduled

for the 2014-2019 National Legislation Program, legislature has failed to prioritise it for 2015. Many existing laws and regulations concerning indigenous minorities also conflict each other. 14 ministries conduct indigenous affairs, mostly by competing for projects and the biggest budgets, and showing off things that look good on paper, such as community development, resettlement, and cultural tourism. But when it comes to dealing with land tenure or discrimination, these ministries wash their hands.

Nababan said that unless the state initiates serious reconciliation with indigenous communities, the Republic of Indonesia will not last long. Denial of basic rights as citizens fuel enough incentive for separatism among indigenous communities.

Reconciliation means indigenous communities are given local autonomy to exercise their customary traditions safely and peacefully in their homelands. It also means legal recognition of indigenous communities and their individual members, access to economic empowerment through cooperatives and credit unions, support in conserving and rehabilitating their natural environment, mapping indigenous territories that are recognised in the development of national infrastructure, giving indigenous

“In my culture there is a saying, ‘An indigenous person without land is a dead indigenous person,’” said Mezua via his translator. “We cannot blindly trust the Government to make forestry decisions on our behalf because the forest concerns the livelihood of indigenous communities.

To gain respect for our culture and recognition for our territories, indigenous people need to unite, not only nationally but internationally as well. We are not against development – rather, we are for the kind of development that respects our livelihoods and ways of life.”

The main points of struggle for indigenous peoples, according to Mezua, concern earning respect for indigenous culture, recognition for the sovereignty of their territories, and formal prior informed consent when outsiders intend to gain access to their homelands. “Others can kill us, but not our identity nor our culture. We must have sovereignty over our homelands.

Unity is the key,” said Mezua. He adds that he admires the struggle of uniting millions of indigenous people in a big country such as Indonesia, compared to uniting 10,000 indigenous people within Panama’s population of 3 million.

For more information, please visit www.aman.or.id/en

Grace is a freelance writer, former TV journalist, and aspiring documentarist with a passion for Indonesian history and culture.

Contact her at g.c.susetyo@gmail.com

Actions From Across The Archipelago

Holiday-makers clean Birie Island Beach in Raja Ampat Raja Ampat in West Papua is known for being a paradise for divers, bird-watchers and nature lovers. Although it is a sanctuary for flora and fauna, sadly, it isn’t a safe haven from rubbish.

and in the space of two hours, they had cleared to reduce our plastic consumption, eliminating the beach of all litter. plastic bags and polystyrene from your household diets completely. Use a reusable The divers said the main things washed up on bag instead – they last for life! Practice the the beach were plastic bottles, plastic bottle three Rs – Reduce, Reuse, Recycle – and let’s Four friends spent a week enjoying the caps, straws, plastic bags, polystyrene and give our oceans a chance. Thank you to these bountiful dive sites of Raja Ampat, based on single-serve plastic cups and bottles. Some clean-up heroes for inspiring change!

Birie Island. One night a tropical storm fell over of the more unusual items found included toy the island, bringing in rubbish with the tides, dinosaurs and toothbrushes. leaving the beach full of garbage. These cleanWhat’s your Dua Tangan Action? Send them to up heroes decided they wouldn’t leave the It’s heartbreaking to see rubbish in paradise, cleanupjktday@indonesiaexpat.biz and we’ll share island looking this way, grabbed some bags, but from this clean-up experience we can learn them here to inspire others to make a change!

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Indonesia expat issue 147

ANNOUNCEMENTS

The Park Lane Hotel Jakarta welcomes new general manager

Council of Global Green Growth Institute meets to discuss barriers to green investment

JAKARTA Mr. Darrel Cartwright is the new General Manager of the 280-room, five-star hotel The Park Lane Jakarta. He has 15 years’ experience as General Manager for five star hotels and resorts and Class A luxury high-rise towers around the world including Japan, Vietnam and Kenya.

Prior to his appointment he was the General Manager of the luxurious Loama Resort Maldives at Maamigili.

A Masters Degree graduate in Hospitality Management from Cornell University, he will be overlooking this dynamic hotel’s day-to-day operations and continue its productivity and efficiencies as the first five-star certified eco-hotel in Indonesia.

Darrel is a motivational leader, able to deliver guest satisfaction with budgeted revenue and expertise in working with multinational teams.

"Great leaders are almost always great simplifiers, who can cut through argument, debate, and doubt to offer a solution everybody can understand," Darrel Cartwright commented.

Originally from America, Darrel speaks fluent English, Japanese and Vietnamese.

He enjoys Scuba diving in his spare time.

Local fitness store employs fun and food to promote fitness

BALI The Council of the Global Green Growth Institute met on 23 July to discuss policy barriers to green investment in developing countries and how sound policy can open countries up to investment and job creation, particularly in green infrastructure.

The strategic discussion was held during GGGI’s 7th Council meeting, held in The Trans Resort Bali, Seminyak. Attending were officials from GGGI Member countries and Chair and President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono, former president of Indonesia, as well as Director-General Yvo de Boer.

Between now and 2030, the world will require an estimated $90 trillion investment in infrastructure to meet and maintain global economic growth targets. The question is what kind of infrastructure will be built. Some infrastructure locks-in patterns of inefficiency, like poorly planned roads and sprawling cities that implant private transportation dependence or poor housing stock. Conversely, infrastructure, if built right, can also lock-in efficiencies and facilitate de-carbonisation, energy efficiency, and pollution reduction.

The GGGI Council met with experts from the Overseas Development Institute, the World Business Council for Sustainable Development, as well as experts from GGGI Member countries to discuss

BALI “Our quest is to help people look better, feel better and live longer,” states Rohan McKenna of PrimaFit. He continues, “Doing so often requires hard work, but it can also be fun.

“HIIT stands for High Intensity Interval Training. It is a valuable fitness tool but one that is made more functional when led by a trained professional, and more fun when done with others. We built our August 1 event around these key concepts and we were immediately rewarded with people registering for the event. In fact, we had to stop taking registrations in order to keep the quality of the experience high.”

As Indonesia’s leading fitness company, PrimaFit is uniquely qualified to host events such as this. The HIIT event was

held at the company’s Bali showroom, which is one of seven the company owns, stretching from Medan to Bali.

“For us, fitness goes way beyond just a workout at the gym. It is a lifestyle. To truly be fit we must focus the three Ms: Movement – comprising exercise and daily activity; Makanan – what we eat, when we eat it and how much we eat; and Mind – sleep and stress management.

Doing the right things is important, but so is knowing the right things. At our HIIT events, we aim to offer information as well as a good workout,” Mr. McKenna adds.

PrimaFit will be hosting more events like this one in their Bali showroom in the future, as well as events that focus on other aspects of a fitness lifestyle.

some of the barriers to the right kind of infrastructure investment in developing countries, such as weak institutions, weak regulations, small tax bases, and poor credit ratings that make investors think the risk is too high.

The experts discussed how to overcome these barriers to spur investment in green infrastructure, which includes political commitment, restructuring incentives, increasing technical knowledge and capacity, and developing new financial products aimed at long-term investors with an interest in green economic initiatives.

“Most of the time the problem is not the lack of capital, indeed there are more than adequate resources for massive green infrastructure investment around the world,” said Yvo de Boer, DirectorGeneral of the Global Green Growth Institute.

GGGI’s Strategic Plan 2015-2020 focuses on providing green investment advisory services to developing and emerging countries to help them develop sound project proposals that attract international finance for green infrastructure and other green growth initiatives. The day’s strategic discussion was a key knowledge-sharing activity to discuss the kinds of strategic initiatives GGGI might engage into helping unlock infrastructure investment.

Indonesia to allow foreign stakes in local banks

NATIONWIDE From the current limit of 40 percent, Indonesia’s Financial Services Authority has hinted that it is open to lifting the curb and allowing a higher percent of foreign ownership in local banks. The percentage of foreign ownership, however, will depend on an investor’s business plan, according to Muliaman Hadad, chairman of the Financial Services Authority, in an interview with Bloomberg. But Hadad

did not say how much more the authority would allow in terms of foreign holdings in domestic banks. It will depend on the seriousness of the investor and the concept of what the investor is going to do, Hadad added. Indonesia, Southeast Asia’s largest economy, has more than 100 banks.

Source: Business News Asia

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* Answers in the next edition!

LIGHT ENTERTAINMENT

CROSSWORD

Fetch the Fava Beans and a Nice Chianti

By Eamonn Sadler

W

here I come from people never die. Before you rush to buy a house next to mine, I don’t mean people live forever, I mean that English people will never say a person whose vital signs are at zero is ‘dead’. In polite company people who are close to the deceased will say they have ‘passed away’ or ‘gone to a better place’ or are ‘no longer with us’. In informal settings people will say euphemistically that they have ‘shuffled off this mortal coil’ or ‘popped their clogs’ or are ‘pushing up the daisies’. This is all to do with the traditional English ‘stiff upper lip’ and speaks volumes about our desperate need to avoid any type of sentimentality or emotion.

Some say this is not very healthy, that we should cry hard and release our grief. Some say we should wail and scream and beat our chests as they do. Some say we should prop the body up in a corner and get rat-arsed like the Irish do. But for the English, after a silent funeral, it’s off to the nearest relative’s house for a quick cup of tea and a cucumber sandwich then out of there ASAP. But apparently for some of us, funerals used to be very different.

Up to and including the early part of the 20th century, the Fore tribe of Papua New Guinea (and some other peoples around the world) used to eat their stiffs (as far as our best anthropologists are aware) because they believed it was the best way to create a permanent link between the living and the dead. I guess the digestive system sorted the good bits from the bad bits and all the things they didn’t like about Aunty Doris got left steaming behind a bush and all the good bits became nutrition.

Unfortunately for them though, scoffing dead people from the same tribe, social group or society known as endocannibalism can cause a form of spongiform encephalopathy known as kuru (the bovine form is what we call ‘mad cow disease’). In the early 1900s there was a major outbreak in Papua New Guinea after some members of the Fore tribe chowed down on a bloke from up the road who had developed the disease spontaneously, and the outbreak lasted until only a few years ago. The disease was unique to the Fore people and their closest neighbours and was caused by eating the chap’s infected organs – and worst of all it was orally transmissible.

Because the men ate the choice cuts of meat and the women were left with the brain and other organs where the majority of the culpable prions resided, the disease mainly affected females and in some areas 25 percent of the women died as a result of it.

What is interesting is that, according to an investigation led by an Australian medical researcher called Michael Alpers, some of the people of the Fore tribe never contracted the disease even though they shared a ‘Chappy Meal’ with people who subsequently developed the disease and died horrible deaths. When he dug deeper, he found that these lucky people were immune because they had a particular gene profile that completely protected them.

“Marvellous!” he thought. “From these people I can develop a vaccine that will stop this disease from spreading to the rest of the world!”

In the early 1900s there was a major outbreak in Papua New Guinea after some members of the Fore tribe chowed down on a bloke from up the road who had developed the disease spontaneously, and the outbreak lasted until only a few years ago.

But Alpers got a shock. When he compared the gene profile of the uninfected Fore people to those of everyone else on the planet, he found that the immunity was far from unusual. Many people from other parts of Asia, from Europe and Africa, had developed the same immunity and had the same gene profile. His conclusion was that at some point in our history, maybe around half a million years ago, it was they who were eating our dearly departed and the Fore tribe who were not. We had developed immunity, the Fore tribe had not. For that reason the kuru disease stayed confined to the Fore people and never spread outside the area even though it was orally transmissible.

So, half a million years or so ago according to this theory, funerals in the area that we now call England may have been very different, especially the catering. Makes cucumber sandwiches seem even more boring!

Across 1. Seemingly true (9) 8. Mountain ash (5) 9. No longer in general use (7) 10. Undone (of trousers) (8) 11. Notion (4) 13. Away from the shore (6) 14. Nonsense - striped sweet (6) 16. Bouquet (4) 17. Person seeking an electorate's opinion (8) 19. Free time (7) 20. Unconcealed (5) 21. Weapon on a pole (9)

ANSWERS OF ISSUE 146

ACROSS — 1. Paraphernalia 8. Eros 9. Mainstay 10. Bipartisan 12. Beggar 14. Hollow 15. Lederhosen 19. Subtract 20. Hail 21. Turning circle DOWN — 2. Airliner 3. At sea 4. Hamster 5. Rails 6. Arsenal 7. I say 11. Molehill 13. Gelatin 14. Heretic 16. Drain 17. Other 18. Guru

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Indonesia expat issue 147

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Eamonn has lived and worked in Indonesia for over 20 years but doesn’t understand the country at all and now realises that he never will. He is an entrepreneur, businessman and writer, lead singer with expat band Xhibit A and the owner and operator of The Jakarta Comedy Club and The Bali Comedy Club.

DOWN 1. Table tennis (4-4) 2. Rhododendron (6) 3. Woollen footwear (4) 4. Fatty alcoholic accompaniment to Christmas pudding (6,6) 5. Figure used when converting currency (8,4) 6. Words revealing unconscious thoughts (8,4) 7. Rod used to stir an effervescent drink (7-5) 12. Opening moment of a hockey match (5-3) 15. Spanish grocery and wine shop (6) 18. Bother (4)

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Booze

Blues I

By Simon Pitchforth

The price of alcohol in Indonesia continues to soar into the stratosphere as new import duties are introduced.

've been cajoled into penning a few tetchy paragraphs about the recent hike in Indonesia's import tariffs, particularly the vertiginously steep- to positively perpendicular-150 percent that's just been slapped on imported alcoholic drinks. I'm somewhat mindful of the fact though that protestations along these lines can seem a little like the designer flip-flop stamping of petit-bourgeois expat feet.

"We demand more tiramisu!", "Opera tickets or death!" etc., etc. Maybe this whole bibulous debate can seem just a little frivolous when two-dollar-a-day malnutrition still stalks the land and much of the country's infrastructure evokes a heavilyshelled Beirut.

economies, including Western ones centuries ago, managed to haul themselves into such an advantageous position in the first place partly via protectionist measures.

Perhaps, though, one could turn this argument around and ask why Indonesia's notoriously indolent legislators are wasting their time on demonising drink when there's an entire country out there that desperately needs rebuilding. Could it be that proving that they are all decent, peci-wearing, God-fearing types helps to distract the general public from the never-ending whiff of corruption that continually unfurls over the future horizon like a soiled toilet roll unravelling down a steep hill?

There are some though that see the invidious hand of religious fervour and so-called ‘Sharia-isation’ underlying these new import levies. Notice that among the spread of new taxes, alcohol imports have been selected for the eye-watering top whack of 150 percent. And, of course, this all comes on top of minimart fridges being exorcised of devil's lemonade, teetotal Tangerang going totally dry and a putative, complete nationwide ban on alcohol which will soon pass before the Indonesian Parliament.

But let's explore the issue in a little more depth shall we? I can't really profess to have a completely neutral stance on this. I'm a native of London and not Lampung after all. However I should stress, Your Honour, that I'm a relatively light drinker and not the kind of dipsomaniacal, turps-nudging stereotype that I imagine is currently waking up in a cold sweat at the prospect of these new import levies.

Well, a litre of the hard stuff has just swelled from Rp.1,125,000 on a market price of Rp.1,000,000 (already expensive) to Rp.2,500,000. Fancy paying Rp.2,500,000 for a bottle of Jack Daniels? I guess if you wanted a brace them then it would probably be cheaper to fly to Singapore and buy them there, cost of return flight included.

Protectionism does have its place. If you look at a longer view of world history beyond the neoclassical economic orthodoxy that crashed the world's financial system back in 2008 and which has now ramped private debt back up to pre-crash levels of 250% of GDP, then it's clear that the world's most successful

However, that was just one part of a larger jigsaw that also involved state-sector investment in education and industry, often sustaining a loss for many years until the local stuff you produce works well. And there's the rub. Indonesia's elite political class don't really do investment. They do kleptomania.

With that in mind, the new import duties will perhaps do nothing except ramp up inflation, especially at a time when the rupiah has just hit a 17-year low against the greenback.

Despite claims to contrary then, it's hard not to see prescriptive piety as opposed to public health as being the driving factor behind the current campaign against our beloved suds, especially when viewed in the context of the country's great love of cigarette advertising and its endless semiotic pollution.

The evil weed is surely many times more destructive with regard to public health than Bintang is, however big tobacco here enjoys a hand-in-glove relationship with political sleaze (as it does in many other countries).

My current bête noire is Gudang Garam's latest saturation campaign. These ads depict a Western man, immaculately turned out in a shiny black leather jacket and neatly combed ponytail, playing a few bluesy licks on an electric guitar while a couple of young ladies look on approvingly from the opulent comfort of a classy, chromium and glass bar setting.

Gudang Garam has clearly missed a trick here, as a real rocker would surely have a lit cigarette pushed into the headstock of

I'm a relatively light drinker and not the kind of dipsomaniacal, turps-nudging stereotype that I imagine is currently waking up in a cold sweat at the prospect of these new import levies. his axe. Although, in the wider context of blues music as a primal howl of the oppressed and dispossessed, developing into the manifold artistic explorations of rock, then the sanitised tableau presented in this ad has all of the authenticity and aesthetic vitality of a chartered accountant with lung cancer checking himself into a Swiss euthanasia clinic.

Interestingly, condoms have also been subject to a tax hike. I would assert that this is more evidence for the prosecution when assessing the real religious impetus underlying the booze-tax hike. Over the years, many of the country's more firebrand leaders have taken a few moves out of the Papal playbook regarding the perceived evils of the humble rubber Johnny.

This surely goes beyond alcoholic inconvenience and into the territory of the ethically inadmissible. Indeed, my personal policy proposal would be to carpet-bomb Java with packets of ‘party hats’ and have sinetron stars demonstrating how to put the things on with the aid of a few bananas twice a day on all of the country's main television channels. But I digress.

Ultimately, many Muslims in this country, shock horror, actually drink the demon beer and are also fond of the making of beasts with two backs. Well, many of my acquaintances are at least, but perhaps that says more about my own foul existence. Passion and piña coladas may be fine and dandy, however none of my confrères will touch a ham sandwich with a barge pole, and for them this abstinence seems to take the curse off the other two transgressions. Fingers crossed there aren’t too many moonshine fatalities in the years ahead. I can feel the old optic nerves tingling already.

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If you want your event to be posted here, please contact (+62) 0 21 719 5908 or e-mail: events@indonesiaexpat.biz

EVENTS

JAKARTA Music

two compilations and two live albums, having sold more than 100 million records worldwide.

Live Nation Indonesia expect over 40,000 fans of all ages to attend. Get your tickets at www. rajakarcis.com Arts & Culture

f r om o t he r c ou nt r ie s . T he international event consists of three categories: full marathon (42,195km), half marathon (21, 10 and 5 km) and children’s sprint. www.thejakartamarathon.com

is ‘Groovy Ball’! Time to form a table with a group of friends or join a table and make new ones at this must-attend themed event.

People, get your groove on and get ready! Purchase your tickets from ANZA House at Rp.1,600,000.

Email anza2015@gmail.com for enquiries or call 021-71793042

BALI Festivals

Spesimen Sejarah Alam 16 August–15 September 2015 This exhibition showcases art pieces relating to the sojourns of Alfred Russell Wallace (18231913). Presenting 24 artworks from local and international a r tist s, the ex hibition is in Salihara Community. Featured international artists include Fred Langford Edwards, Lucy Davis, Geraldie Juarez, Flora Lichtman & Sharon Shattuck, Shannon Lee Castleman, Ed Scholes & Tim Laman and Robert Zhao Renhui (Institute of Critical Zoologists). www.Salihara.org

14–16 August 2015 The Ba l i G ou r me t Fe s t iva l showc a ses the best of f ine dining restaurants to an affluent audience. It is an opportunity for chefs from near and far to show their wares. Whether they usually work in five or six-star hotels, or just a little warung around the corner, their food is on offer for you to judge. Held at Bali Nusa Dua Convention Centre, Nusa Dua. www.baligourmetfestival. com or contact Ms. Julita Chandra at +62 (0)361 283 356.

Automotives

Sports

BANJARMASIN

Indonesia Jazz Festival 2015 29–30 August 2015 Five stages will present bands from different jazz genres this August. More than 120 local musicians will participate in the event, ranging from famous Indonesian jazz musicians to the newly discovered talents. Enjoy the performances of Indonesia’s jazz legends this August at Istora Senayan. indojazzfest.com

Indonesia International Motor Show 20–30 August 2015 This is the exhibition automotive lovers have been waiting for!

Business a spec t s a s well a s aut omot ive c u lt u re w i l l b e combined together with enter entertainment and education.

More than 30 leading brands will take part in the exhibition, from both cars and motorbikes. www.indonesianmotorshow.com

Bali Gourmet Festival

The Music Run 5 September 2015 After the success of the last year’s event, The Music Run will be bringing the beat back to Jakarta for the second consecutive year!

Walk, run or dance through five unique 1km music zones. The music zones, Rock, Pop, Old School, Hip Hop and Dance, prom i se t o prov ide f u n for everyone with each zone having its own unique, interactive activities.

This year’s event will be a ‘Twilight Run’ – with gates opening at 3pm, a Pre–Party at 3.30pm, the run at 4pm and an awesome After Party with an amazing festival line-up, including Jakarta Beatboxers and top DJs. Registration now open at www.themusicrun.loket. com/music-run-2015/2698 or at Sevelin kiosk in 7-eleven stores.

Networking

Sports Bon Jovi Live 11 September 2015 This will be the second time Bon Jovi has performed in Indonesia, this time held at Gelora Bung Karno Stadium. Bon Jovi has released 12 studio albums, plus

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Indonesia expat issue 147

Mandiri Jakarta Marathon 25 October 2015 The Mandiri Jakarta Marathon will start and finish at Jakarta’s Monas. 50 countries took part in the marathon last year, 1,200 out of 14,120 participants were

ANZA ‘Groovy Ball’ 11 September 2015 The annual September ANZA Ball is back! This year, the theme

Bali Illustration Workshop 11–22 November 2015 For the first time in Indonesia, Kekai Kotaki, Danny Luv isi and Dave Rapoza will present an international illustration w ork s hop i n B a l i . A g r e a t opportunity for artists to deeply immerse in the spirit and practical k n o w le d g e o f i l lu s t r a t ion .

Beginner illustrators or working profe ssiona ls w i l l have t he opportunity of being mentored by these leading artists. The workshop will improve skills, build connections, which will enable the illustrators to take deeper steps into the industry.

There will be two batches of workshops with 20 seats each. Send your application to application@ illustrationworkshopbali. c o m b e f o r e 3 1 st o f Ju l y. baliillustrationworkshop.com

Ariana Grande 26 August 2015 Grande's music career began with the soundtrack ‘Music from Victorious’. Her album ‘Yours Truly ‘debuted at number one on the US Billboard 200 in 2013.

But it is her second album we cant get enough of. Songs like ‘Problem’, ‘Bang-Bang’ and “Love Me Harder’ spent 34 weeks in the Top Ten Billboard chart. Starting her extensive Honeymoon Tour in North America and Europe, Ariana Grande will be in Jakarta for the first time in August. Get your tickets at rajakarcis.com

Workshop

Festivals

Bali International Triathlon

Traditional Boat Race

25 October 2015 Nu s a D u a w i l l b e home of t he eig ht h ‘ Tr i at h lon w it h a Soul’, a race that has won numerous awards, including Best Destination Triathlon. The event comprises a full Olympic triathlon, a half-triathlon and a 5-kilometre fun run. It is expected to draw over 1,000 athletes from some 30 countries, including more than 500 Indonesian triathletes.

The ra ce w ill beg in shor tly after sunrise with a swim in the tranquil waters of Jimbaran Bay, followed by a bike sprint to Nusa Dua and finishing with a road race. Participants can now register online through the official race website. www. balitriathlon.com

17 August 2015 Known throughout the region for its many rivers, the Indonesian province of South Kalimantan each year hosts traditional Boat Races. Held on the Martapura R iver, t he e vent i s pa r t of Indonesia’s Independence Day celebrations and always attracts a large and enthusiastic crowd.

LAMPUNG Festival Krakatau Festival 23–30 August 2015 This annual event in Lampung prov ince w ill showc a se the

beauty of Krakatau Mountain.

There will be a food and coffee fe st iva l, a be a ch pa r t y (23 August), jet-ski adventures (2930 August) and a carnival (30 August). The highlight of the festival is the Krakatau tour.

Starting early in the morning, participants will board the ferry and head to Sebesi Island before arriving at Krakatau. http:// krakataufestival.com

RIAU Sports

Ironman 70.3 23 August 2015 IRONM A N Triathlon World Championship organisers have chosen the beautiful island of Bintan in the Riau Islands of Indonesia for the first qualifying races in the Asia Pacific. With the rapid growth in popularity of IRONMAN® triathlon in the Asia-Pacific region, Indonesia will now hold the first qualifying races for the 2016 IRONMAN 70.3.

The event will begin with the 1.2-mile (1.9 km) swim in calm and clear waters, next embarking on a scenic one-lap, 56-mile (90 km) bike course on smooth, wide roads. Finally, a spectatorfriendly, three-lap 13.1-mile (21 km) run course tops off this spectacular event.

The popular annual MetaMan Bintan has been transformed into the IRONMAN 70.3 Triathlon hosted by the brand new Swiss B e l h o t e l L a g oi B ay. w w w. ironmanbintan.com

INDONESIA EXPAT DIRECTORY

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We Deliver Stroopwafels in Indonesia to your home or office 1 pack/ quantity of 8 pieces regular plain (9cm) for Rp. 60.000 1 pack/ quantity of 8 pieces regular choco (9cm) for Rp. 65.000 Call: 021 766 4465/ 081 114 90400 or e-mail: info@altjebakery.com

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Bartele Gallery is the only dedicated shop in Indonesia which focuses on antique maps, prints, photographs, books and antiquities, ideal for a unique gift for that special someone. Come and browse through hundreds of old and original maps and prints from all across the globe!

DB Schenker can handle your move smoothly and efficiently from A to Z. The DB Schenker relocation service handles the complete planning and organization of a move, and of course ensures it is completed on schedule.

DB Schenker relocations is your ideal moving partner with the competitive edge.

Call us +62 (0) 21 719 0087 or E-mail: info@bartelegallery.com and visit our Facebook: facebook.com/ bartelegallery for more information

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TO BOOK SPACE ON THIS DIRECTORY PAGE CALL: 021 719 5908

issue 147 Indonesia expat

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translation live on stage (e.g. seminars, exhibition, media program) and off stage (meetings, negotiations, etc). Jimbo is also experienced as a host for product launching and events. w w w. jimboandfriends.com, +62 (0) 856 916 888 38, jimbo.indonesia@ gmail.com

HAVE SOMETHING TO SELL? Looking for something to buy? Looking for staff? Selling property? Or need a place to live? Why not place your classified ad with Indonesia Expat! Your classified will be placed once for 2 weeks online and once in our printed version which has a circulation of 16.500 copies bi-weekly.

Next deadline: 18 August

Bahasa Indonesia lessons for expats living in South Jakarta, Kuningan, Country Wood, BSD, given by instructor with 20 years experience. Flexible Schedule.

Plea se c a ll Pa k Cha ir uma n +62 (0) 812 103 7466 email chairuman1942@gmail.com

CONDITIONS Personal classifieds Commercial classifieds

Free of Charge (50 words max) Rp. 100,000 (0–50 words) Rp. 200,000 (50–100 words)

Property listings are considered as Commercial.

Adding an image incurs an extra charge of Rp.150,000. Business Listings can only be placed on the Business Listings page (p.30) Send in your classifieds to ads@indonesiaexpat.biz

Jakarta Looking for work Female with 18 years’ experience in a multinational company.

Excellent English communication skills, Computer literate, admin skills. Dynamic, independent, dedicated, loyal, honest. Willing to travel. Interested in my CV, pls contact +62 (0) 81311331033, e-mail: n.ers@consultant.com I am an Australian arborist and horticulturist expert with 15 years experience, now residing in Bandung with family. Specialising in landscape design/consultancy and vertical gardens, residential and commercial services available.

Ple a se c ont a c t me: +62 (0) 85317381878 or big jim1972@ live.com.au I'm look ing for a pa r t-time m a id job i n C ent r a l/S out h Jakar ta , and prefer working with singles/couples. I'm good English speaking and have plenty of references from American/ Australian family. Please contact me at: denovia82@gmail.com I can help you arrange your receipts, do your bookkeeping, organise events, manage domestic staff, get your shopping, book travel etc. I have part-time expat clients already but like to be busy.

Email me Liswati on lismona33@ yahoo.com or call/sms/whatsapp 082123914687 Jobs available

ads@indonesiaexpat.biz for competitive advertising rates and get noticed through our printed publication, e-newsletter and on our website.

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Indonesia expat issue 147

Seeking volunteer teachers to help needy children and adults.

We have a small learning centre for refugees who are not able to attend public schools here in Jakarta, and we need your help.

We are looking for native-English or very strong English speakers to come two hours, twice a week t o our prog ra m me in S out h Jakarta. The term commitment is only nine weeks, from July 22 September 18. We are looking for:1.

A teacher's aide for elementary school children - Tuesday and Thursday 9:30-11:30 (or Saturdays 9:30 -11:30). 2. A tea cher or teacher's aide for youth (ages 9 - 18) - Monday and Wednesday 9:30-11:30. 3. A teacher for adults (beginners English) - Monday and Wednesday 9:30-11:30. 4.

A teacher for adults (beginners English) - Tuesday and Thursday 9:30-11:30. Experienced teachers would be extremely helpful but

experience is not required. We will provide teaching materials.

Plea se cont a c t Pr isk a at priskamarianne@gmail.com Services

Need help in finding services and getting answers to your questions as a newcomer? We’re here to help! Our seasoned expats answer thousands of questions each year from newcomers to provide advice and direction in solving the new challenges they face. Check out Living in Indonesia, A Site for Expatriates www.expat.or.id Certified Clinical Hy pnotherapist. English & Ba ha sa Spea k ing. Highly confidential. Appointment based. +62 (0) 812 86739918.

Swimming Therapy Class for Baby/Kids/Adult/Elderly. Come and join Rossel La Fifa Aquatic Club for sw imming therapy classes in South Jakarta. We have babies swim with mum, hydrotherapy, massage, brain gym for baby, kids swim, adult and elderly class, also autism, hy pera c t ive, specia l need s children, etc. Also dance, kids yoga, study club after school, a dvent ure educ at ion ‘ ba ck t o n a t u r e ’, w it h C e r t i f ie d Instructor/Therapist/Teachers from Australia and Pasadena, C a l i f o r n i a (f e m a l e), w i t h 20 years’ experience. We are profe ssiona l L ea r ning a nd Behaviour Specialist, Brain Gym Instructor, Coach, Teacher, Early Childhood Education Specialist, Rhythmic Movement Trainer, Brain Gy m 101 Balance for Life, Creative Vision, Sensory Integ ration, Educ ationa l Kinesiology Specialist, EduKinesthetics, SMS/call: +62 (0) 813 20037103.

Bahasa Indonesia and French lesson for children through to adults at your place with qualified teacher. Contact Novi +62 (0) 816 704370.

English-Bahasa bilingual Live Translator & Master of Ceremony for hire! Jimbo is very fluent in English and Bahasa and has a charismatic personality. He is capable of doing both ways

Spanish Tutor: Learn Spanish at your place with a DELE-certified examiner from Spain. Most of my students come from International Schools (JIS and BSJ). Please call me (Raúl) +62 (0) 821 1050 2786 Email: unascartas@yahoo.com Spanish/Indonesian translators: If you need experienced and native translators to translate in this language pair (both ways) please call us (FNA) +62 (0) 812 8821 5625 Email: elejakarta@ gmail.com A full time Bahasa Indonesia instructor has some openings for expats interested to have Bahasa Indonesia lessons. Please call +62 (0) 813 17914231 Property

House for Rent. One nice house 2 storey, one large joined pool, b e aut i f u l g a rden , 24Hou r s security compound, no cement wa ll bet ween houses in the compound. Approx.500 m2 house with 1,000 m2 land, located at Jl. Margasatwa Raya, 10 Minutes to Cilandak Commercial Estate. @ USD 3,000,- per month with min. one year lease. If interested (no Broker/Agent), call owner 0811180605 For rent 300 houses at Kemang, Cipete, Cilandak, Jeruk Purut, Pondok Indah. Big gardens, swimming pools, USD 2,000 5,000. Phone: +62 (0) 816 859 551 or +62 (0) 817 009 3366 Epicentrum Walk, Quality Open Plan Executive Office Aircon, Inter net ,Reception, Ceiling Lipro, PABX, 2 Phone lines, Refrigerator,Dispenser, Fully Furnished, Seats up to 8 pers, 40 m 2, 24/7 access 6-12 mth lease options Rp 24.5m p/m + 1 Mth Security Bond. +62 (0) 878 8803 4501.

Apartment for Rent at Kemang Village Intercon Tower (Above Kemang Village Mall). Studio, 38M2. Fully Furnished (Brand New) with Latex King Bed Size, Gym, Swimming Pool, Jogging Track, Multifunction Room, 24/7 Security, Parking. Rent USD 1500/Month (Inc Svc Charge) Min 1 Year Rent. Please contact +62 (0) 821 11555789 or rkarnadi@ hotmail.com B u k i t Pe s o n a To w n h o u s e , Jl. Kebag usan R aya no 14F,

Ja g a k a r s a , S out h Ja k a r t a .

The house is two levels of total 310 sqm f loor area consisting o f 4 +2 b e d r o om s a nd 2+2 bathrooms. The garage and carport capacity is for 3 cars.

The house is furnished of 5 unit AC, oven, 2 door refrigerator and microwave. There is a dispenser which produces drinking water directly from the water source (no need to purchase mineral water).

The house is one of the only 11 in the cluster, controlled with a gate and 24 hours guardsmen. It takes only 10 minutes from the house to Jl. TB Simatupang Toll roads and nearby Arcadia (Nestle) office building.the electricity capacity is 5500kVA. Rent Rp.120million a year (including tax). Contact: +62 (0) 815 14343809 (Taufik).

New Fully Furnished Studio Apartment at Kemang Village Resident. One location w ith Lippo Kemang Mall. Access to Antasari, TB Simatupang, CBD Sudirman. Walking distance to cosy cafe & restaurant. Please contact priscasalim@yahoo.com / +62 (0) 813 80545435 / +62 (0) 819 06413048 Fu l ly-f ur n ished , clea n a nd modern 1-bedroom, 1-bathroom apartment available for rent at Rp.8,000,000 per month. (Price is negotiable). Preferably longterm rental period of at least 1 year. Everything is still relatively new and clean. Facilities include a swimming pool, parking lot, Circle K Mart, 24-hour security, laundry service, pharmacy, free shuttle bus service that operates in the Epicentrum area and a gym.

Kitchen: A kitchen set, dining table, kettle, microwave, fridge, cooking utensils, a full dining set. Living room: A 2-seater couch, an LED TV and a DVD player.Bedroom: A queen-sized bed with pillows and 2 sets of comforters, a wardrobe, a makeup table and chair, and another LED TV. Bathroom: Water-heater, shower with a sliding door, mirror cabinet. Balcony: Outdoor table and chair set.Others: Shoe rack and rugs. Please email me at lvljjlvl@yahoo.com I have recently moved into Kemang with a friend and we are currently seeking a roommate.

We live in a 4-bedroom house with a swimming pool located on Jl. Pejaten Barat II. If you are interested please contact me at: stephen.field1992@gmail.com Pets

Dogs for adoption from non-profit animal welfare organisation Garda Satwa Indonesia! This is Chili, a female small breed, 3 years old. Chili was found in Cinere. When she was found it looked like she had just given birth, but her puppies were taken away by the residents there. Chili is a very quiet and sweet dog.

Chili needs a home and a family.

Others

Large teak cabinet for sale.

Rp.2,000,000 (reduced for quick sale). Made by Klots,moveable shelf, 4 drawers. 113cm x 74cm x 179 cm. Excellent condition, please contact tessa@minihub. org

Snow white used to have a home and a family, but she lost the family due to a divorce. Ending up in a factory and considered a nuisance by workers, Snow White nearly died from a miscarriage where the fetus died inside of her. Luckily, we found out about it when Snow White was being spayed. Snow White is a sweet dog and friendly to humans and other dogs.

This is Jack, male medium breed, 2 years old. Jack, along with one other dog, was a stray at a school in the area of BSD. Jack was kept by a security guard and was about to be sold to a restaurant to be made into a dog meat dish. Jack is very sweet and quiet, so quiet that he is often intimidated by other male dogs. Jack needs a home and a permanent family.

For mor e i n for m at ion a nd how to adopt please contact Ica +62 (0) 889 77014993, visit our social media: twitter- @ gardasatwaINA, Instagram@gardasatwaindonesi. w w w. gardasatwaindonesia.org

Acer laptop to sell. 14 Inch, Core I 5. Specifications: Processor Intel Core i5 Hard Disk. 500 GB, Memory 2GB, Screen: 14 Inch. Physically excellent with battery duration more than 3 hours. Price only: Rp.3,500,000.

Email: dhiank0829@gmail.com

Bali Property Luxurious villa in Kerobokan, Umalas, Bali, full furnished, 2 bedrooms, wide living room and kitchen, a front wide garden with pool, land area Âą 500 M2.

Comfortable & quiet place to stay.

Available to be rented for August 2015 to January 2018. Price is negotiable, start at US$35,000.

Contact us by email at info@ kartikalaw.com

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