Indonesia Expat - issue 148 by Indonesia Expat

fr ee I S S U E N O . 14 8 | 2 6 A U G U S T – 8 S E P T E M B E R 2 0 15

J A K A R TA • J AVA • B A L I • L O M B O K • K A L I M A N TA N • S U M AT R A • S U L A W E S I • W E S T PA P U A

W W W. I N D O N E S I A E X PAT. B I Z

MODERNISING SUMATRA'S SEAPORTS

TIGER TRAIL: SAVING THE SUMATRAN TIGER THE CLANDESTINE CRITIC: E&O

SURFING THE MENTAWAI ISLANDS ECO-VILLAGE HERO: MEET THOMAS HEINLE

T H E I S S U E

issue 148 Indonesia expat

Indonesia expat issue 148

Unstoppable!

As you bite into the juicy meat, different layers of flavour hit the tongue at once, delivering a hit of that marinated charcoal-smoky sauce. Before you know it, you’re licking the meat off the bones, and maybe your fingers. Wingstop’s Hickory Smoked BBQ guarantees all that and more – as do their nine other flavours.

There’s Atomic, with a not-so-secret ingredient, chilli – she’ll make your tongue ripple. The merciless amount of heat doesn’t burn you immediately; it creeps in slowly and hits you the moment you think you can handle it. If this is love at first bite, you’re in deep trouble. It’s the kind of hotness that makes you beg for more, no matter how much it burns.

Wednesdays are best to visit Wingstop Kemang, Jakarta. On Wednesdays, customers are invited to transgress normal eating etiquette and discover their true wing-eating powers! You might be surprised at quite how much chicken can fit into your stomach, with their offer of five free wings for every five classic wings bought. So dive in with both hands, and count the plates and discarded bones when you’re done!

Each seasoning is well-thought through and offers its own charms. To please most taste buds, the succulently seasoned chicken is complemented with two different dips. The topselling Garlic Parmesan is best combined with the Honey Mustard dip. This dip's sweetness also counters the spiciness of Original Hot well. Alternatively, Creamy Ranch dip adds a kick to Hawaiian and Barbecue.

Another reason to visit Wingstop is for its chilled vibes, and free-flow of rare Blueberry Fanta. Its comfortable, young and modern interior is superb as a meeting point or a hangout – you can even play foosball with your friends in the Kemang shop. Wingstop has been unstoppable since their opening in 1994. The Texas-based brand had served a billion wings by 2012, and is now among the fastest-growing brands in the industry. They go beyond the classic American comfortfood joint, offering high quality food and service.

At Wingstop you can choose from three cuts: classic wings, luscious drumsticks, and skinned, deboned breast. The same quality is found in their chicken burger patty; favourite of the all-day breakfast menu. Wingstop’s made-to-order chicken is expertly handled and cooked before being tossed in a bowl to mix with the all-important flavours.

“All the chicken is cooked with carefully selected ingredients that have gone through a long development process at our R&D kitchen,” says Mehdi Zaidi, the COO of Mahadaya Corporation, the company that brought Wingstop to Indonesia in mid-2014.

Then there are the sides, which make great snacks. Fries are drizzled with hot, aged-cheddar cheese, and the sweet churros are complemented with creamy chocolate dip. An alternative, healthier choice is the chicken salad and veggie sticks: a bunch of crunchy veggies consisting of fresh celery, Japanese cucumber and carrots.

Jl. Kemang Raya No 93B, South Jakarta

Make Wingstop your next culinary stop – your stomach will thank you!

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issue 148 Indonesia expat

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

Dear Readers, Editor in Chief

Angela Richardson angela@indonesiaexpat.biz

Editorial Enquiries

letters@indonesiaexpat.biz

Management

Edo Frese edo@indonesiaexpat.biz

Sales

Dian Mardianingsih ads@indonesiaexpat.biz

Distribution & Admin

Juni Setiawan admin@indonesiaexpat.biz

Graphics

Frederick Ng Katarina Anindita

Finance

Lini Verawaty finance@indonesiaexpat.biz

Contributors

Stephanie Brookes Dachlan Cartwright Josefhine Chitra Karen Davis Anastasia Ika Lorca Lueras Daniel Pope Eamonn Sadler Grace Susetyo Kenneth Yeung

Circulation Enquiries info@indonesiaexpat.biz

The cover of this Sumatra Issue is of the iconic Sumatran tiger, a majestic and captivatingly beautiful creature that is also, sadly, critically endangered. As it seems to be with most things in the world, the more beautiful something is, the more valuable it must be. This goes without saying for the Sumatran tiger, whose population has decreased from 1,000 in 1978 to a mere 400 today. If it weren’t for many conservation efforts working hard to keep this species alive, the Sumatran tiger could well have disappeared entirely, like its relative, the extinct Javan tiger that used to roam the jungles of Java until the mid-1970s when mankind overruled them. The island of Sumatra is the only place where tigers, rhinos, orangutans and elephants live together and the presence of Sumatran tiger is an important indicator of biodiversity in a forest. Protecting tigers and their habitat means many other species benefit – including humans. Sumatran tigers are the smallest surviving tiger subspecies and are

distinguished by heavy black stripes on their orange coats. Although protected by law, with tough provisions for jail time and steep fines, a substantial market remains in Sumatra and the rest of Asia for tiger parts and products. Poaching for trade is responsible for over 78 percent of Sumatran tiger deaths. Their natural habitat is also being destroyed for agriculture, palm oil plantations and settlements, an all-toocommon problem which the orangutan and countless other species face today. Approximately 66,997 square kilometres of forest, larger than the state of West Virginia, was lost in Sumatra between 1985 and 1997. In this issue, we talk to Chris Slappendel, a Dutchman who has been touring the world to raise awareness about the plight of the tiger. His organisation, Tiger Trail, has done much for tiger conservation, which he explains to Karen Davis in more detail. Please turn to page 22 for the full story. I can only hope that people benefiting from the tiger’s and so many other animals’ demise will begin to realise that with business comes great responsibility, and that we are directly responsible for whether or not our children and our children’s children will live in a world where regal jungle creatures no longer

exist and forests are mere pictures on the Internet to look at but never touch. I can only hope that the Sumatran Tiger’s story does not end the way that Africa’s very last male northern white rhino has, guarded day and night by armed rangers, his prized horn removed for precautionary measures. This is an extremely saddening thought. The Sumatran tiger is an icon: an image of hope and at the same time, an image of sadness and a reminder of our impact on the environment. If you can help the plight of the Sumatran tiger, do reach out to the many worthwhile organisations and NGOs who fight daily for her survival. Keep the hope alive.

Angela Richardson Editor in Chief

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PT. Koleksi Klasik Indonesia Graha Eka Formula Building 3rd floor, #302 Jl. Bangka Raya No. 2 Kemang, Jakarta T: 021 719 5908 (sales/editorial) 021 719 3409 (admin/finance) F: 021 719 3409 Office hours: 09.00–17.00 Monday–Friday INDONESIA EXPAT IS PUBLISHED BI-WEEKLY BY PT. KOLEKSI KLASIK INDONESIA. OPINIONS EXPRESSED IN THIS PUBLICATION ARE THOSE OF THE WRITERS AND THE PUBLISHER DOES NOT ACCEPT ANY RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY ERRORS, OMMISIONS, OR COMPLAINTS ARISING THERE FROM.

LETTER TO THE EDITOR

Dear Matthew,

My second question refers to "plenty" of Indonesian expats suffering rough treatment in the US from "raids" following the 911 attacks. Can Yeung please offer some actual examples of this having happened? The charge seems quite vague and also I was always under the impression that the Indonesian community in the US is relatively small, given the size of Indonesia.

Thank you for writing and we value your readership. Here are Kenneth’s answers to your questions: 1. Here's an answer from Gary Dean of Okusi Associates: "The atmosphere and rhetoric of xenophobia traditionally increases significantly during the first 6 months or so of a new presidency. However, we are now experiencing an extended period of exaggerated nationalism. Among many other things, this has taken the form of retroactive regulations concerning the obtaining of work permits and residence visas ("KITAS"), even for foreign directors of Indonesian companies." 2. I heard first-hand from Indonesian friends living in the US that American authorities were much tougher toward them post-911. A couple of links: http://www.detentionwatchnetwork.org/node/2464 http://www.worldmag.com/2014/08/do_all_immigrants_need_to_be_detained http://aaldef.org/press-releases/press-release/new-data-on-discriminatory-post911-immigration-detention-policy-revealed.html

I enjoy your magazine very much, keep up the good work!

We hope this helps answer your questions.

Hello, In reference to Kenneth Yeung's article, The Immigration Inquisition, I have two questions. Firstly, why are Indonesian immigration officers acting more aggressively now than before? This important question is never fully answered.

NO PARTS OF THIS PUBLICATION CAN BE REPRODUCED IN WHOLE OR IN PART, IN PRINT OR ELECTRONICALLY WITHOUT PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHER. ALL TRADEMARKS, LOGOS, BRANDS AND DESIGNS ARE COPYRIGHT AND FULLY RESERVED BY PT. KOLEKSI KLASIK

Best Wishes, Matthew

INDONESIA.

The Cover The Sumatran Tiger by Dupan Pandu

Indonesia expat issue 148

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Issue 148

Contents

Feature Story Activists Say Sharia Law Perpetuates Violence against Women in Aceh

Expat Business

Business Profile Neu Premium Dentistry

Meet the Expat Dominique Murail: Sumatra Paradiso

Meet the Expat Eco-Village Hero: Thomas Heinle

Expat Outreach

Sports The Mentawai Islands: Surfing's Favourite Destination

Worthy Causes In the Trail of the Sumatran Tiger

Announcements

Light Entertainment The Greatest Show on Earth

Food & Drink E&O: East and More-iental

Observations Fun with Weapons

Travel Weh Island: The Outer Edge

Events

History Swapping Shirts with Plato: Kicking the Atlantis Football Around

Business Directory

Classifieds

Scams in the City The Justice Scam

Featured Indonesia Looks to Modernise Sumatra's Seaports to Boost Economic Growth

Expat Lifestyle

issue 148 Indonesia expat

FEATURE STORY

ACTIVISTS SAY SHARIA LAW PERPETUATES

VIOLENCE

AGAINST WOMEN IN ACEH BY ANASTASIA IKA

Indonesia expat issue 148

Anastasia Ika is a freelance writer in Indonesia covering a variety of issues related to travel, business, the environment, and human interest. For more information, visit www.copycollision.com

In light of a growing number of corporal punishment cases and an unruly Sharia ‘police’, activists ask Indonesia’s government to reconsider Aceh’s autonomy.

Indonesia's central government should be able to re-evaluate the case of Aceh's autonomy in light of inconsistent law enforcement coupled with an increasingly high number of public corporal punishment cases.

Aceh authorities said the perpetrators were guilty of being alone in a room, fully clothed, before their marriage was official.

Azriana Rambe Manalu was born in North Aceh, and has lived under Sharia law since its inception in the region. Today, she is Chairwoman of the National Commission on Violence Against Women. In an interview with Indonesia Expat, Manalu recalls a time when community organisations would raid villages in search of moral offenders.

ast November, a young pregnant woman was led onto a platform in Aceh, prepared to be publicly whipped. After some discussion by local officials, she was granted a reprieve from her corporal punishment until after the child was born. She would wait in fear for months to come, but her husband was not so lucky. They gave him nine lashes on the spot; a spectacle horrible enough to make the woman pass out.

With a history of Islamic regulation dating back to 1999, Aceh is the only province in Indonesia that practices full Sharia law. With special regulation in place that allows Aceh to determine its own judicial and education systems, the region is also the only place in the archipelago where everyone, even non-Muslims, must abide by Sharia. Public flogging is a “torture of human rights” says Supriyadi Eddyono, Executive Director of the Institute for Criminal Justice Reform (ICJR), an Indonesian organisation with a mission to fight for human rights within the justice system. According to Eddyono, beatings are painful, but the psychological effects of enduring corporal punishment in public are worse. The humiliation “beats the lashes themselves,” he suggests. ICJR’s data says there were 17 incidents of flogging in Aceh in 2004, the year it became legal. The following year, that number jumped to almost 30 cases. Eddyono says in the context of national law, corporal and capital punishment should not be allowed. He also claims people who commit crimes in Aceh are rarely given a fair trial or the chance to speak in their own defence. Groups like ICJR say women in Aceh are routinely discriminated against. In June, the local government implemented a curfew for all women under the pretence that it would reduce incidents of sexual violence in the region. Cafes, tourist spots, sports facilities, and other venues were told to refuse service to women after 11pm unless they were accompanied by a male family member. The move was controversial, and Indonesia's National Commission on Violence Against Women said the measure would restrict women's freedom and threaten their livelihoods. The curfew made little sense, according to the commission, as its data indicated most cases of violence against women in Aceh happen in private homes and are perpetrated by their husbands or other family members. Aceh’s Sharia law dictates illegal actions include but are not limited to affectionate contact between an unmarried couple; gambling; homosexuality; alcohol consumption; and, for women, not wearing a hijab (headscarf). Implementation of Sharia law is overseen by an organisation called Wilayatul Hisbah – commonly referred to as the “Sharia police”. Aceh’s Sharia police are assigned to investigate citizens who commit “moral crimes”. Technically, they’re not authorised to arrest and detain, but several media reports indicate they do so with impunity. According to Eddyono, many Acehnese people are beginning to feel disturbed by the local judicial system, and Indonesia’s central government should be able to re-evaluate the status of Aceh’s autonomy in light of inconsistent law enforcement and an increasing number of public corporal punishments. VIOLENCE AGAINST WOMEN It’s no secret that women have suffered under Aceh’s Sharia law. Police data from 2014 indicates women were written up at a rate more than twice that of men. Of 1,817 cases processed by the Sharia police, 1,236 of them listed female violators.

According to her, in 2001, vigilantes on motorcycles would routinely speed up and down the streets, force their way into private homes, commit acts of violence, and sometimes beat women in the streets. "Many armed civilians walked down the streets," she says. “Some villages were dominated by societal organisations, but it was unclear where they came from." Manalu says raiders often acted on behalf of Islamic boarding schools, but it was extremely difficult to distinguish one faction from another. After the ratification of Sharia law in 2003, members of community organisations were no longer able to raid villages. The fragmented movements were replaced by that of the local government through the Sharia police. But in its development, even Sharia law became a sort of "justification to judge women," says Manalu. Last year in Langsa, about 284 miles from Banda Aceh, a woman was caned in public. Sadly, it was because she was raped. Initially the woman, a widow, was accused of committing adultery. The men who discovered the two alleged suspects proceeded to gang-rape the woman on the spot and cover the pair in sewerage before turning them both in to the Sharia police. After the incident, the eight perpetrators were charged under Indonesia’s national justice system, as Sharia law doesn’t yet govern rape cases. Out of the three men detained, one of them was a 13 year old boy. The other five suspects ended up on the run. A few days later, the National Commission on Violence Against Women issued a statement saying the vigilantes committed a serious crime. It also condemned a response from the Langsa Department of Islamic Sharia, which stated the victim was not raped, but instead "gave up her limbs to be touched by vigilantes." A CALL FOR INTERVENTION Today, Manalu claims the Aceh government has become the real perpetrator of violence. Through penalties with blurred boundaries, they "already discriminate against women," says the Chairwoman. Following the Government’s approval of Aceh’s autonomy, everyone in the region must now obey Sharia law, even non-Muslims and visitors. The only difference, however, is that non-Muslims get a choice on how they prefer to be punished for their crimes. For example, if a non-Muslim is found guilty of selling alcohol in Aceh, the offender could opt to be punished based on the local law or by Indonesia’s national criminal code. If offenders choose the Sharia penalty, they would likely get four lashes in public. However, if they opt to take the route of punishment via national law, the offender may be sentenced to several months in prison. With human rights issues in mind, Manalu says Indonesia’s central government has acted irresponsibly in the case of Aceh. The National Commission for Violence Against Women claims to have repeatedly advised the Government on the matter at large. It hopes Jakarta can soon hold public proceedings to scrutinise local regulations in Aceh.

issue 148 Indonesia expat

EXPAT BUSINESS FEATURED Bobby Mamahit, Transportation Ministry Director General for Sea Transportation

Indonesia Looks to Modernise Sumatra’s Seaports to Boost Economic Growth Sumatran seaports are set for an upgrade so Indonesia may capitalise on increased trade traffic in the Malacca Strait. But are Singapore and Malaysia too far ahead? By Josefhine Chitra

he Ministry of National Development Planning forecasts Indonesia needs an additional 2,650 kilometres of roads, 3,258 kilometres of railways, and 15 more airports. But perhaps most importantly, it says the nation needs 24 new seaports to bolster international trade. The Investment Coordination Board (BKPM) prices these and other infrastructure projects at about Rp.5,519.4 trillion (US$408.4 billion) for the next five years. The Strait of Malacca, an 805-kilometre stretch of sea between Malaysia and Indonesia, is one of the most important shipping routes in the world. This is mainly because it’s the shortest sea link between the Indian Ocean and the South China Sea. Although the Strait of Malacca became Indonesian territory before Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono’s second administration, the Government has not paid much attention to developing or modernising Sumatra’s sea-ports recently. Currently, a substantial two thirds of Indonesia’s trade is handled by Tanjung Priok in North Jakarta, a site which has not been expanded for more than 130 years, despite container traffic growing at a rate of 24 percent annually. Jokowi believes he can solve the problem. In January, the Government broke ground on a new deep-sea port in Medan. The plan 8

Indonesia expat issue 148

New Tanjung Priok Development Plan (image courtesy of indonesiaport.co.id)

One notable project is the Kuala Tanjung seaport, which is operated by three state-owned companies: PT Pelindo I, PT Waskita Karya, and PT Pembangunan Perumahan. “Kuala Tanjung is prepared to be the largest port and international transit hub in the western part of Indonesia,” says Mahamit. “With [a] capacity of 25 million TEUs (twenty-foot shipping containers) per year, hopefully it can be an alternative [to] Singapore and Malaysia. However, until its full-fledged development in 2021 finishes, Kuala Tanjung will be complementary to Belawan, the current biggest port outside of Java.” To realise its vision, Indonesia must indeed catch up with Singapore and Malaysia, two countries that are already ahead of the game in terms of maritime trade sophistication.

is to begin four more ports come October, one of which is the New Priok Port (also known as Kalibaru Port). If successful this would begin operating in 2023 and more than triple the annual capacity of Tanjung Priok. The World Bank says the average dwell time (the number of days a container can stay at a terminal once it has been unloaded before getting slapped with a storage fee) at Tanjung Priok was 6.4 days in 2013. This has dropped slightly since then, but is still an eternity when compared to Singapore: lightning-fast at less than a day. Reducing port dwell time in Indonesia is critical because the longer the dwell time, the higher the costs for logistics and inventory. As it stands, these costs currently make up a whopping 30 percent of total container traffic expenses within the archipelago.

Positioning potential

Since the 2008 global financial crisis, the number of trade ships coming through the

Strait of Malacca has steadily increased. In 2014, transits hit an all-time high at around 79,000 with a daily average of 217 vessels. Through the Master Plan for Acceleration and Expansion of Indonesian Economic Development (MP3EI), the Government intends to increase island connectivity while also capturing lucrative opportunities in the Strait by speeding up seaport development in Sumatra. “Actually the Government [will] not only modernise seaports in Sumatra, but all seaports throughout the archipelago are being overhauled,” Transportation Ministry Director General for Sea Transportation Bobby Mamahit tells Indonesia Expat. “Speaking specifically about Sumatra, we want to increase connectivity between islands outside of Java [...] We want to take advantage of [the] geographical situation along the Ma-lacca Strait by modernising seaports in Aceh, North Sumatra, Riau, Kepulauan Riau, West Sumatra, Beng-kulu, and Bangka Belitung.”

Data from the Transportation Ministry suggests the Port of Singapore, which handled 31.26 million TEUs in 2012, is the second biggest port in the world, after the Port of Shanghai. Despite already acting as a well-established trading spot, another major terminal expansion project is already underway in Singapore. Malaysia is expanding Port Klang, which is currently the world’s 12th largest port by volume and the 17th busiest port in total cargo tonnage, according to recent statistics from the World Shipping Council. In March 2015, Malaysian Prime Minister Najib Razak said about 300 million Malaysian Ringgit would be spent to improve the port’s access road, rail network, and traffic management system. When asked if it was truly feasible for Indonesia to enter the same league as its closest neighbours, Mamahit says he remains optimistic so long as traffic stays high in the Strait and the plan is executed according to its target timeline.

Josefhine Chitra is a former communications consultant and will soon enter a graduate programme at the London School of Economics and Political Science. For more information, visit www.copycollision.com.

Currently, a substantial two thirds of Indonesia’s trade is handled by Tanjung Priok in North Jakarta, a site which has not been expanded for more than 130 years

President Joko "Jokowi" Widodo (center) and North Sumatra Governor Gatot Pujo Nugroho (left) listen to a presentation by Rini Soemarno (second right) about a planned port development project in Kuala Tanjung, North Sumatra (image courtesy of jurnalasia.com)

Mamahit adds, “Ports follow trade because they are only facilities, which cannot generate [the] maximum benefit if there are no goods or commodities being traded. Therefore, we need to work [...] with other stakeholders to boost domestic goods production so traffic in [local] ports can be increased.”

Kuala Tanjung as Indonesia’s pilot project

Saut Fransiswoyo Siagian, Senior Managing Assistant of Business Development at Pelindo I tells Indonesia Expat, “Kuala Tanjung is aimed to be Indonesia’s first industrial gateway port city by 2021 that consists of seaports — industrial clusters of manufacturing and logistics, fisheries and marines products, tourism, and hinterland agro products — and urban residence.”

The Government intends to increase island connectivity while also capturing lucrative opportunities in the Strait by speeding up seaport development in Sumatra In Singapore and Malaysia, around 80 percent of total maritime traffic is derived from trading. “There is a high probability that we can capture 80 percent of transit traffic from Singapore and Malaysia because businessmen tend to use ports that have goods supply and cargo bases, which will be provided in the upcoming Kuala Tanjung port,” says Siagian boldly. Optimists like Siagian believe the integration with industrial areas will bring multilayer effects, not only for multinational companies, but also to small and medium-sized businesses.

“Currently, local businesses still export raw commodities, and by creating [refineries] and other processing industries inside the port areas, we seek to add value to our commodities, such as crude palm oil, rubber, and aluminium. This can increase Indonesia’s export value and create employment for many,” he suggests. When considering the possible economic benefits of building out Sumatra’s seaports, it’s no surprise the regional government strongly supports the effort. Foreign investors like Port of Tianjin; China Harbour; China Communication Construction Company, Port of Rotterdam, and Marubeni Corporation, have also expressed interest. However, a foreign investor has yet to be locked in, and Jokowi is reportedly still doing a roadshow in other countries to attract potential investors. Locally, the three largest state banks, Bank Rakyat Indonesia (BRI), Bank Mandiri, and Bank Negara Indonesia (BNI), have signed loan deals with Pelindo worth Rp.5.05 trillion (more than US$360 million) in total. The archipelago’s move is welcomed warmly on behalf of bilateral trade partners; a major player being the United States. Jim Carouso, US Department of State Director of Maritime Southeast Asia Affairs, recently told the media of the implications a seaport expansion would have for US-Indonesia trade relations. He said, “Not only… in Sumatra, but the minute seaports become more efficient, people can trade more cheaply. Clearly, American people can buy goods from Indonesia at a better price. So, I think when infrastructure is improved, bilateral trade will also be improved and investment will increase.” Carouso also voiced admiration for Jokowi aiming to take advantage of Indonesia’s geographic position to become more important for global trading. However, the effects of the plan remain to be seen, and some experts doubt Indonesia can make good on its promise to pull off a massive infrastructure overhaul like the one proposed. It’s no secret the archipelago is a hotbed for embezzlement, and ports are particularly difficult to monitor. In July, the Jakarta police announced they would detain the Trade Ministry’s head of subdirectory non-imported capital goods Imam Aryanta as a suspect in a corruption and money laundering scandal at Tanjung Priok. issue 148 Indonesia expat

EXPAT BUSINESS BUSINESS PROFILE

procedures can be performed painlessly with minimal to no bleeding. Some of the benefits associated with laser dentistry are reduced requirements for sutures; fasterhealing wounds, and minimised bleeding and risk of bacterial infections. Laser treatments can offer pain therapy too, for example for patients with TMJ (jaw joint) problems. Where are your patients predominately from and what are the main issues you come across? As a pioneer and a leader in the use of advance German dental technologies in Asia and Indonesia, our clinic is recognised as the first dental clinic here to use these methods. Hence, our patients are predominately expats. The main issues we see involve patients needing some treatment but without pain; in a sterile environment with top technology, quick service, and perfect results.

In Search of the Perfect Smile

Neu Premium Dentistry Dr. Andri is the owner of Neu Premium Dentistry, which has two branches in Jakarta. He explains his business philosophy to us, and how Neu Premium uses new technologies to help patients. By Angela Richardson

Dr. Andri, thank you for taking the time to answer our questions. What made you want to open your own dental practice? I feel dentistry is an art: we dentists can change someone’s appearance by designing the shape and position of their teeth. I am also passionate about making patients unafraid to go to the dentist. And finally, due to advancements in technology in dentistry, it is exciting that patients no longer need to wait a long time to change their appearance. How many clinics do you have today and where can they be found? We have two clinics in Jakarta now. Neu Premium Dentistry is on Jl. Asia Afrika in Senayan City, in the Panin Tower, and the other, named Digital Dental Clinic, is in The East Tower, Mega Kuningan.

Many people are petrified of going to the dentist and avoid going until it’s too late. What technological advancements have improved the quality of treatment, and pain management, for patients today? Nowadays, with the latest clinical techniques and technologies such as laser dentistry, it is possible to have a painless dental treatment. Patients should not be afraid to come to our clinic for dental procedures, hence there is no need to delay any treatment until it’s too late. A procedure as simple as regular scaling (cleaning) can really improve dental health. You offer ‘pain-free’ and ‘minimal trauma’ services – can you explain how this is possible for a tooth extraction, which can be extremely painful? Tooth extraction is a two-stage procedure.

First, the specific tooth and surrounding tissues are numbed with anaesthetics. Once the tooth is numbed, it will no longer produce pain sensations. With proper application of techniques, patients will not feel any pain during the anaesthesia procedure. Secondly, with the correct, gentle manipulation, teeth can then be removed with minimal trauma. This way, the whole extraction procedure will be pain-free and with minimal trauma. What is laser dentistry? Laser dentistry is the use of laser lights in dental treatment. It can be a precise and effective way to perform many dental procedures. It allows treatments on very exact areas of focus without damaging the surrounding tissues. Laser dentistry gives comfort to anxious dental patients because

How do you believe oral health relates to overall bodily health? Your mouth is key to overall bodily health. Taking care of your teeth isn't just about having a nice smile and pleasant breath. Your mouth is the gateway to your body: bacteria that builds up on teeth makes gums prone to infection. The immune system moves in to attack the infection and the gums become inflamed. The inflammation continues unless the infection is brought under control. Sometimes, the inflammation doesn’t clear up properly. The result of the intense gum inflammation is that it also affects the bloodstream and is believed slowly to damage blood vessels in the heart and brain over a long time period. Over time, inflammation and the chemicals it releases eat away at the gums and bone structure that hold teeth in place. The result is severe gum disease, known as periodontitis. Periodontitis or gum disease has been linked to a variety of other health problems, including heart disease and heart attacks, diabetes and its control, stroke, and also rheumatoid arthritis. In worse-case scenarios this can actually be fatal. What are the aesthetic treatments you offer at Premium Neu Dentistry? We can design our patients’ smiles with CAD/CAM technology (i.e. ‘digital smile design’), to bring out the best smile we can, in a painless, one-day treatment .

BUSINESS SNIPPETS

Indonesia Lowers 2015 Coal Production Target on Weak Global Context The Government has lowered its coal production target for 2015 from 425 million tonnes to 400 million tonnes. Coal mines have had to cut production targets, reportedly due to low global demand and weak prices. State-owned power company Perusahaan Listrik Negara (PLN) has also cut domestic coal demand. Indonesia, the world’s top thermal coal exporter, produced

Indonesia expat issue 148

204 million tonnes in the first half of 2015, according to the Ministry of Energy and Mineral Resources. A global supply glut is compounded by declining demand from China, a combination that has seen coal prices sliding by around ten percent in the first seven months of 2015 to touch a near-

Our company continuously offers the best dental treatments, performed by qualified dentists and supported with the most advanced German dental technologies. Is tooth whitening 100 percent safe? Tooth whitening in general is 100 percent safe. Having said that, it is advisable to consult your dentist beforehand. There are so many tooth-whitening products in the market, with different methods of application. Our dentists can help determine the appropriate tooth whitening product and method for you, and explain what kind of preparations are needed, and what to expect afterwards. What oral treatments should we avoid, if any? Generally, we would advise patients to avoid tooth extraction unless the tooth can no longer be treated by any other means. Once a tooth is extracted, it can potentially pose more problems. Post-extraction, the bone is no longer supporting the root of the tooth, hence it will “resorp”, with adjacent teeth starting to tip towards the empty space created. Once this is happens, the patient’s normal occlusion can start to shift and potentially cause TMJ problems, which in turns may cause headaches, jaw and neck pain, ear ringing, and more. We always advice our patients, prior to tooth extraction, to consider a tooth replacement such as dental implant to prevent bone resorption. Most of us are aware that we need to brush twice a day and floss regularly for optimum oral health. What else should we be doing? You can try a water-based interdental tool such as Waterpik. And, of course, visit the dentist and dental hygienist regularly for cleaning and check-ups!

What challenges do you face running a dental clinic in Indonesia? Dentists face incredible challenges now. They have to do so many things well: providing optimal patient care; keeping up with the latest clinical techniques and technologies; managing a practice; leading a team, and operating a successful business. Technology is also growing fast, and dentists must choose carefully to take advantage and make it a success. You can expose yourself to lots of techniques and technologies, but that doesn’t mean that you want to apply all of them in your practice. Tell us how your game room at your surgery in Senayan helps your young patients to de-stress? The clinic is designed so that when the patient comes into our Clinic, they do not feel that they are in a medical facility. The game room adds to this, hence when younger patients come in they will feel at ease. Combined with our gentle and painless treatment, this will give an overall positive experience. What is your company’s vision for the future? Our company continuously offers the best dental treatments, performed by qualified dentists and supported with the most advanced German dental technologies. Our vision is to make our clinic the one with the best performance in the world.

Thank you, Dr. Andri. To learn more, please visit www.neudentistry.com

Source: Indonesia Investments; APBI

decade low. This has caused financial pressures for major exporters, with no signs indicating improvement on the horizon. Some analysts expect coal prices to reach their bottom in 2016 provided that capacity is removed from the market. Last week, the Indonesian Coal Mining Association (APBI) said that nearly 80 percent of Indonesian coal mining

companies have temporarily ceased production as the production cost margin has turned negative. For small coal mining companies, this means bankruptcy may loom, and unemployment is in turn on the rise due to less work available in mining. There are currently approximately 3,000 Mining Business Permit (IUP) holders in Indonesia but only 500 are still active.

issue 148 Indonesia expat

EXPAT BUSINESS MEET THE EXPAT

What kind of special flora and fauna can guests expect to see here? On land you will sea red-headed macaques or silver leaf monkeys, wild boars and monitor lizards as the most common species. In the air, rhino calao, hornbills, king fishers, fish eagles, black herons and loads of butterflies. And underwater, a very rich population of Southeast Asian reef fish and turtles. No big stuff here though; our currents are not strong enough to attract large pelagics.

Sumatra Paradiso

Meet Dominique Murail Dominique is Managing Director of Cubadak Paradiso Resort on Cubadak Island in West Sumatra. Established in 1992, the resort was a hospitality pioneer in this region, and is still unchallenged today. Located on a pristine white sand beach with rich coral reefs and dense jungle, this unspoilt destination beckons travellers in search of absolute tranquillity. By Angela Richardson

Dominique, how long have you been a resident of Sumatra? Can you tell us how you ended up living west of Padang? I have been living here for eight years now, my partner Marco has been here for 10 years, and we ended up here after a very classic expat life in the industry, lastly in Kuala Lumpur. We wanted to change our lives, and that’s what we did! Where did the idea to open Cubadak Paradiso Village come from? Cubadak Paradiso Village was founded 23 years ago by Mr. Gianluiggi (Nanni) Casalegno, an Italian gentleman who sadly passed away last year. I joined as a partner when the resort had already been in existence for 15 years. It was created at a time when there was strictly no beach hospitality solution in this part of West Sumatra, and we are still very much unchallenged 23 years later. Please share with us the unique aspects of your resort. We focus on being different: comfort without ostentatious luxury, attention without harassment, excellent food, a family style. All you need to do is buy an air ticket to Padang and we take care of the rest. On Tripadvisor, your ratings are either ‘Excellent’ or ‘Very good’, with no ratings below that. How are you able to maintain such a high level or service which ensures happy customers? Guests coming here have been looking for something different, and they are happy that they finally found it! Meeting our clients’ expectations is the key to it all I believe. In a time when people mostly look 12

Indonesia expat issue 148

for their next holiday on the Internet, we have chosen to have a modest website, extremely descriptive with one objective: what you see there is what you will get. Finally, we live here too, with our guests, enjoying the same facilities as they do. The standard that we maintain is therefore the standard that we expect for ourselves.

We focus on being different: comfort without ostentatious luxury, attention without harassment…

Many of your visitors comment on the delicious food at your resort. What kind of food do you serve and are you also able to serve good wine? We call it fusion cuisine: Italian, French, Chinese, Indonesian. But we are lucky to have excellent ingredients; fruits, vegetables, fresh seafood, meats – all are incredibly tasty naturally. The bar serves alcohol, beer and wines. For the latter we are rather picky ourselves, and only offer wines that we would drink with pleasure, while maintaining prices at a reasonable level, which is a hard task in Indonesia. What cultural differences have you had to adapt to living and working in Sumatra? It was quite easy actually, coming from Malaysia. People in West Sumatra are adorable and it is possible here to get close to people. The Minang culture and laws are a bit complicated to assimilate, and this is a must if you want to run a business in Minang land. But in everyday life, people here are really easy to live and work with. What’s the most exciting aspect of your job? Sharing. Sharing experiences with people visiting, listening to other people’s lives. Sharing our daily routines with the staff. Sharing our lives with the nature around us. Sharing our passions (under water or on land) with guests passing by.

You offer diving and snorkelling at your resort – what is the best dive site and when is the best time to visit for diving? We like all our dive sites and cannot name one best site. The biodiversity here is extremely rich, and in one day you can go from a sponge garden to a 1942 shipwreck to soft corals to an amazing night dive. And where we dive, there is no-one else – an absolute luxury! As we have no marked seasons here, diving is good just any time of year.

What do you do to give back to your area? Do you only hire local staff? The staff are indeed only local and since we don’t produce or exploit anything ourselves, all our supplies are bought or made locally. We provide additional help as much as we can, helping people build their houses for example, or to rebuild them after an earthquake. We also engage in being a model company, paying taxes religiously. We are in close and constant contact with our local neighbours and authorities, helping them to handle and monitor the sudden abundance of local tourism in the area. What kind of training is provided to your hospitality staff? Everything! Our staff are from villages therefore they learn everything on site: cooking, serving, laundering, etc. So after here they can find a proper job. We try to teach English as well, with mitigated results! What challenges do you face working in this remote area? Supplies, but the greater challenges are the elements. After an earthquake for instance, you understand better what being remote means. Tell us about the rubbish issues you face and how you think this problem would be best combated. Well, like everywhere in Indonesia the sea brings a lot of plastic rubbish daily. Collecting and burning is our only solution as there exists no facility in the region. Unfortunately, as local tourism expands, the problem worsens. Solutions are at two levels: education and political willingness to address the issue. We are not at the stage of discussing garbage sorting here; collection and disposal would be a nice way to get started. Do you feel the Government does enough to support the tourism industry in Sumatra? Sumatra is very eager to develop tourism, in particular West Sumatra and its coast line. But there are conflicts of interest and a bit of a confusion as to where the efforts should go. For instance, we consider that you cannot promote coastal tourism and fish farming at the same time in the same place, or tourism and mining. And as very often happens, promotion comes first – and it works – but facilities remain non-existent. If you were stranded on Cubadak Island and could only have three things with you, what would they be? My survival book, my machete, and Bulan, our pet monkey.

Thank you, Dominique! To get in touch, e-mail: info@cubadak-paradisovillage.com

Batavia

The Queen of the East By Ian Burnet

A rare 324 years old map of " Het Cafteel en de Stadt Batavia". This imposing view of Batavia was published in 1690 by the Italian historian Gregorio Leti. (from the Bartele Gallery collection)

The headquarters of the first three Dutch GovernorGenerals of the East Indies was in Ambon, but this location was too remote from the sea lanes of the Malacca and Sunda Straits that carried trade around the Orient and the Indies. The Dutch East India Company needed a more central location to build and repair their ships, warehouse their spices and to be their military and administrative headquarters. Ninety years after the capture of Sunda Kelapa by Fatahillah, a relative and vassal of the Sultan of Banten named Prince Jayawikarta became the third ruler of Jayakarta with his palace located on the west bank of the Ciliwung River. The prince was more than happy to use the Dutch to gain his independence from Banten and in 1618 he signed an agreement with the Governor-General of the United Dutch East India Company (VOC), Jan Pieterszoon Coen, allowing them to build some warehouses on the east bank of the Ciliwung River where it entered the harbour. To secure their foothold on Java, the VOC set about building a walled city which they named Batavia after the tribe that had occupied Holland in Roman times. Modelled after a typical port city in the Netherlands, it lay at sea level so that small boats had direct access by river and canal to the city. Kasteel Batavia defended the city, and across the river the Dutch built warehouses which stored the spices they were gathering from across the Indonesian archipelago and the trade goods they brought from Holland and India (Museum Bahari). Twice yearly these spices would be transferred to the ships of the ‘home fleet’ of East Indiamen bound for Amsterdam. Batavia grew in the image of a Dutch city, with grand whitewashed buildings featuring characteristic hipped roofs and wooden An attractive map of the clove producing Islands (Spice Islands) of the North Moluccas and the west coast of Gilolo Islands, present day Halmahera. (from the Bartele Gallery collection)

shuttered windows lining its canals. For the next 300 years Batavia would be the headquarters of the growing mercantile empire of the United Dutch East India Company, described by Jan de Marre as the ‘Queen of the East’ in his epic poem Batavia written in 1740: Whoever wishes to contemplate the Company in the possession of regal and princely power, must seek her in Asia, where she sits enthroned; is mistress of life and death; deposes and raises up kings; makes war and peace; has her own mint; and possesses all the attributes and signs pertaining to independent sovereigns. Batavia may not have always been an unhealthy place to live, but the eruption of Gunung Salak in 1688 brought huge volumes of volcanic ash down the Ciliwung River, blocking the river and the canals around Batavia and creating more breeding grounds for mosquitoes. In 1733, a malaria epidemic struck Batavia with the mortality rate quadrupling in the next 20 years. Batavia’s inner hospital became known as the ‘death-pit’, since a total 160,000 VOC employees died there, representing one in four of new employees coming from the Netherlands. Death was a routine occurrence and as described in a letter home:

found. Records show that in 1673 the population of Batavia was 27,068 inhabitants of whom half were slaves. The same census tells us that the free population of Batavia consisted of around 2,000 Europeans who were mainly Dutch, with 700 Eurasians and 3,000 Chinese, the remaining free population would be the orang Betawi, as the original Javanese inhabitants of Batavia are called. The higher Compagnie officials beginning with the rank of merchant were allowed to be accompanied by their wives when they moved from the Netherlands, but all other men were forced to live as bachelors or with local women. Jan Pieterszoon Coen saw the problem exactly and requested the VOC to send female orphans and women of marriageable age from Holland to Batavia, saying, “Who does not know that the human race cannot exist without women.” His request was not a success. He did not receive the innocent young virgins as expected and describes the disembarking Dutch women: Here in the archipelago neither free women nor female slaves are so unfit and ill-mannered as some of the Dutch daughters who have arrived by this ship. It is almost as if they originate from the wilderness instead of having been brought up amongst people.

I called for coffins, which are always ready over here. Because it often happens that one has dinner with someone tonight and is present at his funeral tomorrow; the day after tomorrow it will be auction day ( for his goods), and two days later he will be forgotten.

Not all of Batavia had the same sensitivities or shared the Governor-General’s opinion of the Dutch daughters, as Francois Valentijn tells us that the men of the garrison welcomed the ladies like “baked pears,” which were a delicacy at the time.

Batavia, at the centre of a growing mercantile empire, required labour to make it work, and much of this was provided by ‘slaves’ or indentured labourers brought from Bali, Sulawesi, Flores, Banda and wherever else these unfortunate people could be

The above is an excerpt from the book Archipelago by Ian Burnet, which will be published in September, presented by Bartele Gallery, Rare Maps, Antiques Prints, Old Books and Tribal Arts.

A late 17th century map of the eastern islands of Indonesia and Papua-New Guinea, including insets of the clove producing islands of the North Moluccas. (from the Bartele Gallery collection)

Those interested in the history of Southeast Asia and Indonesia will enjoy a visit to Bartele Gallery, browsing endless treasures in the drawers and the outstanding beauty of antique maps displayed. Visit our website/ store: www.BarteleGallery.com Bartele Gallery - Open Daily Jl. Kemang Raya 29A, Kemang, Jakarta +62 (0)21 7190087

issue 148 Indonesia expat

EXPAT LIFESTYLE

FOOD AND DRINK

The Clandestine Critic east and more - iental

Our expert epicure continues an undercover operation to bring you the truth about Jakarta’s dining scene. No spoon is left unturned in the quest for honest, balanced reviews, from longestablished favourites to the hottest new tables in town. This month, the inexorably exotic E&O.

hat’s in a name? That which we call a restaurant should, by any other name, taste as good. What, then, does globe-trotting boy wonder Will Meyrick’s appellation do for his Jakarta gaff, E&O? Regular readers will know I recently reviewed another of the Union Group’s Jakarta joints, Loewy, and it fared about as well as Juliet. Time to see whether their collaboration with the Street Food Chef lives up to the lasting popularity of his Bali efforts (Mamasan and Sarong). On the subject of names, ‘Eastern and Oriental’ is that of a hotel established in Penang in the 1880s: thus are we instantly transported to the golden age of travel – a time when Noel Coward wasn’t a hipster cocktail name but an artist on a tropical sojourn. I should think the original E&O probably had comfier chairs than this restaurant. But anyway, eventually it became part of a chain in which sister hotels included the fabled Raffles Singapore. So far, so Southeast Asian. This is where Meyrick comes in. A wee Scottish scamp, he travailed in a few London kitchens before skipping off on a jaunt around the world, munching his way through Indochina. He settled for a spell in Sydney where he found favour with a few mostly Thai restaurants, before deciding more permanently on Indonesia. E&O’s menu has gone through a couple of guises since its 2013 opening: the website currently proclaims Thai-Vietnamese, but there’s more to it than that. We started with a classic Vietnamese snack; Hanoi nem (spring rolls, Rp.40,000). Potentially a boring order unless you’re actually in Hanoi, but our first choice, Thai fishcakes, was sadly kosong – just about to forgivable, as it was after Ramadan. The nems’ rice paper was a little chewy and the fresh herbs on the side could have been a little more abundant, but the flavours were there, particularly in the authentic nuoc cham, and they were enjoyable overall. An important dish to get right if you’re doing Thai is som tum. This green mango salad (Rp.50,000) should be sour, spicy, salty and sweet – the balance of these elements is everything in Thai (and Vietnamese) cooking. I could have done with a little more spice, but this wasn’t a major issue. The mango was suitably soft, and every key ingredient was present, from peanuts to dried shrimp. The Massaman Lamb Curry (Rp.180,000) was a triumph. This is a lesser-known Southern Thai classic usually favoured by Muslim communities, starring flavours

Indonesia expat issue 148

more readily found in subcontinental dishes: cinnamon, tamarind and cardamom, in this version. The lamb shanks were big and beautifully braised, lovingly enveloped by the stewed-down pumpkin in the rich, robust sauce. I could have eaten this for days: a thing of delight, and easily one of the best curries I’ve had in Jakarta. To go with this, a side order of roti canai (Rp.45,000) is to be encouraged. This one was perhaps a tad undercooked, but the flakiness was good and you can’t beat it for mopping up Massaman sauce. For our other main we strayed from the Thai-Vietnamese canon to Balinese Pepes (Rp.150,000), a firm, dense barramundi fillet marinated and steamed in banana leaves. You could pick out the appropriate bumbu in the dish: candlenut, daun, lemongrass in the sambal matah, etc – again, we could have coped with a little more spice (and this along with the som tum are supposed to be the menu’s spiciest choices) but the flavours were lively on the palate. Have this with simple jasmine rice (Rp.15,000). Unusually for me, I must wax lyrical about the desserts. This oft-maligned course can suffer from either a lack of attention, or too much – at the expense of the real food. Meyrick has struck the perfect balance: imaginative, but also well-executed. Peanut Butter Palm Sugar Ice Cream (Rp.50,000) was like a sexed-up, adultsized Reese’s cup: topped with chocolate and homemade honeycomb pieces, it was a naughty plus-sized joy. Shame-eat the lot and torture yourself in the gym later. The Mocha Cappuccino Ganache (Rp.65,000) also came with a big slab of honeycomb; the creamy coconut ice cream topped with coffee granita was the best bit. To go with your repast at E&O, it’s surely got to be a selection from their extremely well-stocked bar. They do some of the best cocktails in town: creative and unusual, and not just for the sake of it, but because it actually tastes good. Go classic with a Hemingway Daquiri, or ‘Signature’ with a lychee Lady Butterfly. Wine-wise, you need off-dry with the spice – maybe a Trimbach Riesling. I cannot however, for the life of me, understand the beer menu. Heineken and Erdinger, really?! Decent enough beers – but is that the best they can do in an eastern-themed restaurant? Where’s the Singha, or the Bia Ha Noi? Even Bintang would have been welcome. Though not quite at Ramsay-esque levels of celeb-chefdom, clearly Meyrick is not able to cook here daily (he’s got gallivanting

“It was like a sexed-up, adult-sized Reese’s cup…a naughty plus-sized joy. Shame-eat the lot and torture yourself in the gym later.”

to do, you understand). But on the day we visited, the kitchen mostly pulled it off. Service is marginally better than the usual brand of slightly useless, and the food is great value for money. All in all? Pleasing

Feast on oriental E&O Menara Rajawali lt.1 Jl. Dr. Ide Anak Agung Gde Agung Lot# 5.1, Kawasan Mega Kuningan Jakarta 12950 +62 (0) 21 5761645 www.eandojakarta.com

to see Meyrick’s name is not just there as a crowd-magnet, but that it does in fact equate to the best option for upmarket Thai and pan-Southeast Asian in the city.

Cheque Please Food Drinks Service Total

Rp.595,000 Rp.100,000 10% Rp.695,000 (inc. taxes) for two

Our Clandestine Critic has dined all over the world, everywhere from threeMichelin starred restaurants in Monaco to street stalls in Shanghai – so this discerning palate has pedigree. The quest for truth and the elimination of mediocrity in Indonesia’s emerging dining scene is finally here!

issue 148 Indonesia expat

EXPAT LIFESTYLE

TRAVEL

Weh Island: The Outer Edge

A small tropical treasure trove of peace and adventure can be found tucked away in Aceh’s far north, at the northwesternmost edge of the Indonesian archipelago. Weh Island is a small active volcanic island with a fringe of magical beaches, colourful corals, and rich marine life, just 45 minutes by fast boat from the gateway city of Banda Aceh. By Stephanie Brookes | Photos by David Metcalf, Courtesy of Casa Nemo

found my way to Casa Nemo Bungalow Resort & Spa in Sumur Tiga Beach and by late afternoon I was relaxing in my comfortable bungalow hammock, gazing out at the Andaman Sea. Cloaked in lush green forests, Weh brims with secret delights. Aside from diving, underwater hot springs, gorgeous waterfalls and high mountain trails wait to be discovered. The local Acehnese people add an air of charm to this friendly, welcoming tropical isle. Most tourists who find their way to Weh are adventurous travellers in search of a remote, island experience. The reward for travelling this far? An easy, slow-paced and completely stress-free holiday experience. I spent my first day discovering the beautiful bays and beaches of Weh by motorbike – the best way to cruise around and explore the island. The highlight of the day was hitting the big zero, the spot made famous for marking the physical beginning of Indonesia. A zero as tall as a football goalpost is positioned at Weh’s westernmost point, aptly named Kilometre Zero. It makes for a popular meeting point for locals and foreigners alike at 6pm, when the sun drops off the edge of Indonesia. I ordered a sundowner at the warung and got talking to the locals, who told me there is a spot in Papua marking the easternmost

point of Indonesia. A lively discussion developed among the warung’s patrons: what was the exact number written on the kilometre sign at the eastern end of Indonesia’s chain of islands? Most agreed was around 5,300 kilometres, but no one really knew. Most locals don’t venture very far from Weh Island.

“Each village takes responsibility to protect their local patch of marine environment. If an outside boat comes into a villager’s territory and is engaging in any sort of destructive fishing practice, like coral crushing or illegal dynamite blasting, the village Suddenly, I heard the takes action immediately. whirr of a machine and the marine life is prolific, By law, they can confiscate papers shuffling. The the offender’s boat for one clever shop owner and marjan van der burg, had a little side owner of lumba lumba dive week and impose a fine. If the fisherman offends a business: spitting out centre, explained to me that second time, they can burn of a printer were bright local people keep the sea the boat.” This strong local yellow certificates with beautiful gold lettering. gardens protected in the social village structure keeps offenders away. According to Each were individually traditional way. van der Burg, this has resulted numbered and signed by the in wonderfully prolific sea life and Mayor of Sabang (the main port pristine coral seabeds. town on Weh Island). How could I resist? I requested one for a keepsake, pleased to see Weh’s bounteous marine life includes scores on inspection I was visitor number 91,743. of scorpion fish, lionfish and blue spotted rays. Even giant whale sharks are known to Next up, a discovery tour of the island to swim through these plankton-rich waters. find out what lies beneath the diamondRubiah Island, which sits a very short strewn waters of Weh. I discovered there distance from the shores of Lumba Lumba were 20 dive spots around the island, with Dive Centre, has unique coral gardens that Gapang beach and its house reef the most are home to black spotted and honeycomb popular. The marine life is prolific, and morays. Divers can explore the Rubiah wall, Marjan van der Burg, owner of Lumba which drops down 30 metres. Lumba Dive Centre, explained to me that local people keep the sea gardens protected

Underwater Nightlife Lumba Lumba Dive Centre offers amazing night dives at Gapang House Reef. See colourful nudibranchs, ghost pipefish, symbiotic shrimps, octopus, frogfish and squat lobsters. If night dives don’t tickle your fancy, try a day dive with the beach’s three resident turtles. All you need are fins and a snorkel and you can swim with them in only a couple of metres of water. www.lumbalumba.com Rainforests on a Mountain Bike If you can tear yourself away from the beaches, renting a bike and touring through the rainforest is a great way to experience

Indonesia expat issue 148

in the traditional way. “Diving keeps the economy afloat here,” she explained.

the island’s natural diversity and get some exercise too. The roads are relatively trafficfree so you can cycle in peace and solitude. An easy 30km ride will take you through a good chunk of the island and reveal beautiful coastal scenery. Sea Breezes and Wildlife You can easily spot monitor lizards, monkeys, sea eagles, kingfishers and other tropical birds from the Lumba Lumba Dive Centre garden. Coupled with salty sea air is the smell of lush foliage, as large overhanging gapang trees surround part of the beach.

Dining Out The taste sensations at Casa Nemo Bungalow Resort & Spa on Sumur Tiga Beach include a complete menu of authentic Acehnese dishes. At the top of the list is the delicious curry (fish or meat) called Gule Aceh. Try Ikan Kayu, a dried tuna dish cooked in a light curry sauce. Rendang Gurita sam Keuung is a local octopus dish cooked for six hours in coconut milk, herbs and spices, and another favourite Plie U is a tasty vegetable soup topped with dry coconut. Western tastes are catered for as well with bakery items, pastry and breads, thin crust pizza and fine espresso coffee. www.casanemo.com

After a full day’s diving, head back to Gapang Beach to try the local Acehnese food, which packs in the spice. More classic Indonesian dishes are also available and some basic Western food like pancakes, sandwiches and fries. Mama Jungles is a favourite family-style restaurant located right on the beach. For non-divers there’s plenty to do on Weh Island. Transport is easy to find and very reasonably priced. Keen explorers can arrange a motorbike or car from your homestay, bungalow retreat or dive stay. Head into the interior to hike jungle trails, swim in Danau Anak Lauta (a serene freshwater lake) or climb Gunung Merapi, a semi-active stratovolcano. In between the sights along the narrow, winding island roads you’ll encounter quaint little villages habited by welcoming farmers. The island’s low-key yet adventure-ready vibe, together with the richness of its sea gardens and genuine Acehnese hospitality, makes Weh Island a real Sumatran gem.

Stephanie Brookes is an Indonesia-based freelance travel writer. www.travelwriter.ws

Accommodation Casa Nemo Bungalow Resort & Spa is located on the beautiful white sandy shoreline of Sumur Tiga Beach and offers snorkelling right outside the door of your bungalow. It is a family-run resort, with your gracious hosts Gianluca and Balqist providing excellent service and beautiful food. Gianluca goes to the local fish market very early every morning, so you are guaranteed to have fresh seafood daily. Accommodation is in customary Acehnese house style. Performances of traditional music and dance take place every Saturday night. www.casanemo.com

EXPAT LIFESTYLE HISTORY

Swapping shirts with Plato

Kicking the Atlantis Football Around In academic circles, the dreaded ‘A’ word (Atlantis) in a book title is guaranteed to deter serious, respectable consideration. In contrast, popular publishers love it, as it is a powerful selling point. Recently there has been an outpouring of books claiming that the lost Atlantis was here, in Indonesia. By Dachlan Cartwright

tlantis was first mentioned in two works by Plato, Timaeus and Critias. Many academicians believe that Plato’s Atlantis is merely an allegorical myth warning against the hubris of nations. However, taken literally, Plato’s account tells of a vast continent and island-based civilisation called Atlantis that was destroyed by a cataclysm around 9500 BC. He gives fairly general geographic and zoological information, and quite specific topographical descriptions of the large harbour city that was Atlantis’ capital.

A sketch of the lost city of Atlantis

The ‘Atlantis in Indonesia’ movement was given a big boost by the quietly sensational discovery circa 2012 that Gunung Padang in West Java apparently conceals a step pyramid that dates back to and possibly beyond the last Ice Age.

From a mythological point of view, George Ivanovich Gurdjieff, a spiritual leader of the mid-20th century, in his allegorical work All and Everything, indicates that there were scattered survivors of Atlantis, some of whom foregathered in what is now Egypt, forming an esoteric society which built the Sphinx and laid out the groundwork of the Giza pyramid complex for completion over millennia. This accords with current empirical research being carried out by Robert Bauval, Graham Hancock and John Anthony West on the Giza site.

The latest player to take the field is Dhani Irawan, a hydrologist, surely a midfielder, whose book, Atlantis: the Lost City is in Java Sea, was published in April 2015. His theories do, to some extent, build on those of De Santos, but he also produces some interesting original findings. Based on his own expertise, he commendably draws attention to the remarkable east-west transverse channel system (anjiran) which links the north-south flowing rivers in Central Kalimantan. As I understand it, Dhani locates the capital city of Atlantis on Bawean Island, which sticks up from the drowned lands between Kalimantan and Java. Irawan also makes use of Dos Santos’ 32-bullet checklist of correspondences between Plato’s Atlantis and Sundaland/ Indonesia, and here I think they are on shaky ground. The first criterion mentioned is that Atlantis was in the Atlantic. Dos Santos and Irawan get around this by stating that the ‘Atlantic’ was the name of the world ocean which for the Greeks surrounded the three known continents, so the Atlantic was also the Pacific. Then there are the Pillars of Hercules, beyond which Atlantis lay. For Dos Santos, these are Gunung Agung on Bali and Gunung Rinjani on Lombok, and for Irawan these are the symmetrical ‘tugu’ gates which we all know from Java and Bali. But Plato knew his Mediterranean. For him the Pillars of Hercules could surely not be other than Gibraltar and Ceuta where the Med enters the Atlantic.

Thousands of books have been published on the location of Atlantis, and it seems easier to find a country that is not put forward as a contender than the opposite. Recent claims have pinpointed Antarctica, Crete, southern Spain, West Africa, and even Liverpool. Yes, and Indonesia… The ‘Indonesian’ theories are focused on ‘Sundaland’, (not to be confused with West Java, or the football team which recently escaped relegation from the Premier League). During the last Ice Age, Southeast Asia was a single huge continent, to which the name Sundaland has been given. Flooding gave shape to the present coastlines of Sumatra, Java, and Kalimantan, now separated by the shallow Java Sea.

Some of the local ‘Atlanteans’ can’t resist including, on their sites, blogs, videos or slides from B-movies on Atlantis. These are parodied by Colin Wilson as “the usual scenario with Greek temples, white-bearded priests, and beautiful blondes wearing togas like linen bathrobes.” Some of my former students may find it hard to believe, but I’m not old enough to have played football against Plato, although I do sometimes trawl the tombstones at the bottom of the YouTube ocean, to listen to Atlantis by the Shadows and by Donovan from the very cool, Ice Age 1960s.

The first book in the current ‘Atlantis in Indonesia’ series was Eden in the East (1999), by Stephen Oppenheimer, an Oxford professor with a distinguished career as a clinical paediatrician in Malaysia and Papua New Guinea. To his credit, he avoids using the ‘A’ word. Referring to the drowned Sundaland and the effects of its catastrophes and consequent migrations, he covers geology, archaeology, genetics, linguistics, with a long section on mythology, attempting to show that much of the mythology of the Middle East and Europe was fertilised from the area which he describes as a lost Eden.

So, what I am suggesting to former and future researchers is, please kick the ‘Atlantis’ football into touch, and concentrate on the authentic wonders of Gunung Padang; other potential step pyramids; the celestial alignments of the BorobodurPrambanan complex; the irrigation marvels of Central Kalimantan; etc., etc. Do we really want hawkers waylaying us on the steps up to Gunung Padang with chunks of ‘Atlantis Rock’, ‘disappearing’ the remarkable basalt columns there? After all, Britain does all right from Stonehenge without having to cook up an Atlantis connection.

2005 saw the appearance of Atlantis: The Lost Continent Finally Found, by the late Professor Arysio Nunes dos Santos, a Brazilian nuclear physicist who, like his footballhero countryman Neymar, brought some feistiness to our Atlantis arena. Dos Santos conceived Atlantis as a vast continent covering the present Africa, the Indian Ocean, and Southeast Asia. He produced a checklist of 32 criteria matching Plato’s description of Atlantis with features and conditions prevailing in Indonesia and by extension the drowned Sundaland, and concluded that here was the most likely candidate for the location of the lost Atlantis. The ‘Atlantis in Indonesia’ movement was given a big boost by the quietly sensational discovery circa 2012 that Gunung Padang in West Java apparently conceals a step pyramid that dates back to and possibly beyond the last Ice Age. Danny Hilman Natawidjaja, the no-nonsense geologist and Caltech alumnus who is leading the research team at Gunung Padang with the strong support of both previous and present presidents of Indonesia, came onto the field (as a striker, surely) with a book published last year, containing

impeccable data on such subjects as geo-tectonics and tsunami generation. But, even Pak Danny couldn’t resist entitling it Plato Tidak Bohong: Atlantis Ada di Indonesia (Plato is not lying, Atlantis is in Indonesia). At this stage you might feel you want to check out the Monty Python football game between the Greek and German Philosophers - Plato is in goal for Greece.

Dachlan is a retired teacher and librarian who first visited Indonesia for the Subud World Congress in 1971, then worked as a VSO at the Bandung Institute of Technology, where he met his wife Srie. They have two children, Munadi and Rianti.

Admittedly however, ancient civilisations and heritage tourism is a growth industry, with so many positive benefits for Indonesia if properly managed – as President SBY and President Jokowi surely realised when they had the vision to support the activities of the research team led by Danny Natawidjaja at Gunung Padang based on solid empirical scientific evidence. Indonesia may be down there in world soccer rankings, but it’s surely in the top five for its wealth of cultural heritage. So let’s all try and share the wonders of this amazing country and preserve and promote its remarkable authentic marvels in a way that avoids too much sensational focus on the scantily toga-clad sirens of Hollywood Atlantis. issue 148 Indonesia expat

The Justice Scam By Kenneth Yeung

“Ini negara hukum!” (“This is a nation based on law!”) was a favourite slogan of Indonesian officials during the reign of former dictator Suharto. The phrase was trotted out to justify acts of judicial repression, such as the banning of critical media and the jailing of pro-democracy activists. The witty rejoinder to “ini negara hukum” was “ya, hukum rimba” (“yes, law of the jungle”). These days, “ini negara hukum” is still uttered by officials and by lawyers of dubious repute. Tedjo Edhy Purdijatno, who was dumped two weeks ago as Chief Security Minister, used the phrase after criticizing supporters of the respected Corruption Eradication Commission (KPK) as “absurd”. He was viewed as supporting the National Police’s revenge attacks against the KPK leaders, who were forced to step down and faced legal action after naming a senior police officer a corruption suspect. Indonesian Child Protection Commission (KPAI) secretary general Erlinda uttered “ini negara hukum” last year when demanding that Jakarta International School (JIS) be punished for “serious violations”. The legal woes of JIS – which was renamed Jakarta Intercultural School at the end of 2014 in line with an Education Ministry decree banning schools from calling themselves international – stemmed from March 2014. That’s when the mother of a kindergarten student complained that six cleaners at the school had twice sexually assaulted her son in a bathroom in January and February – or in February and March – depending on which police report you read. Upon hearing the news, most people assumed it was true. Revelations that an American who taught at JIS from 1992 to 2002, William James Vahey, was a notorious child molester – only furthered the public perception that JIS was tarnished by paedophiles. The six arrested cleaners were males Azwar, Virgiawan Amin, Zainal Abidin, Syahrial 18

Indonesia expat issue 148

Two teachers wrongly imprisoned on trumped up charges of child sex abuse have been freed, but five cleaners sentenced over the same case are still languishing in jail. Indonesians have long been swindled out of justice by a judiciary that claims to be impartial but often sides with the rich and powerful.

and Agun Iskandar, and female Afrischa Setyani. Police claimed Azwar committed suicide on April 26 by drinking Porstex – a malodorous floor cleaning liquid containing hydrochloric acid – in a police bathroom after undergoing almost seven hours of interrogation. He was buried quickly without an autopsy. The other male cleaners later testified that Azwar had been beaten severely by police. Lawyers for the male cleaners said police had also beaten their clients, pointed guns at their heads and tortured them until they confessed. In December 2014, the surviving male cleaners were sentenced to eight years in jail, while Afrischa – who never confessed – was sentenced to seven years. It was evident that police and the notoriously corrupt South Jakarta District Court were keen to make trouble for JIS. There have been occasional reports of teachers at Islamic boarding schools (pesantren) raping students but not going to jail. Jakarta’s rumour mills have it that a powerful tycoon with strong police connections wanted to shut down JIS in order to take over its valuable real estate in South Jakarta. The Education and Culture Ministry in April 2014 ordered JIS to shut down its kindergarten for operating without an appropriate permit. Meanwhile, the mother at the centre of the allegations demanded the entire school be closed down permanently. She had initially tried to sue JIS for $12.5 million, but when she realised the school was not legally responsible for the outsourced cleaners, she changed her strategy. She claimed that Canadian teacher Neil Bantleman and assistant teacher Ferdinant Tjiong had also abused her son. She also persuaded two other parents to make complaints against the teachers, and increased her compensation demand to $125 million. The subsequent trials were a sham and offlimits to the public and the media. Judges, led by Nuraslam Bustaman, overlooked the lack of physical evidence and in April 2015

Most people who fall afoul of the capricious Indonesian legal system do not have strong networks of legal and international support. sentenced the teachers to 10 years in jail for abusing three boys. One of the lawyers representing the mother was O.C. Kaligis, who was arrested last month for allegedly bribing three judges at Medan State Administrative Court in North Sumatra. When JIS tried to reopen its kindergarten and counter legal charges last year, Kaligis declared, “This is a nation based on law, there cannot be any playing around.” Yeah, right. The verdicts against the teachers were widely criticized, including by the US ambassador, the British Embassy and the Canadian Government. Bantleman’s family filed a defamation case in Singapore against the mother as she had made the initial allegations of abuse while there. On July 16, Singapore High Court ruled the mother had committed defamation and later ordered her to pay S$130,000 in damages to Bantleman and Tjiong, and S$100,000 to JIS. Then, on August 14, the two teachers were released from East Jakarta’s Cipinang jail after Jakarta High Court overturned their conviction. Most people who fall afoul of the capricious Indonesian legal system do not have strong networks of legal and international support. Even if they do have support, they may not be released as quickly as foreigners. This was evidenced in Papua last year, when two French journalists were arrested in August for violating the Immigration Law because they were on tourist visas while making a documentary on separatism. The pair spent just two months and 15 days in jail, whereas the man they had been interviewing, Areki Wanimbo, head of the Lani Besar Tribal

Kenneth Yeung is a Jakarta-based editor

Council, spent nine months in detention on tenuous accusations of conspiracy to commit treason. According to Papuans Behind Bars, a local human rights group, at least 47 Papuan political prisoners remain detained, many allegedly having suffered arbitrary arrest, torture and unfair trials. The Suharto regime set the template for wrongful arrests and imprisonment. This was highlighted by the cases of Marsinah and Udin. Marsinah was a 25-year-old worker at a watch factory in Sidoarjo, East Java. She was involved in a March 1993 strike for minimum wage and menstrual leave. The local district military command interrogated and fired 13 of the strike’s leaders. Marsinah went to the district command to complain. Her body was found three days later. She had been beaten, tortured and raped to death. Prosecutors and police did not dare to blame the Army for the murder, but instead jailed the factory’s owner, managers and guards, all of whom were later exonerated and released. In 1996, journalist Fuad Muhammad Syafruddin, better known as Udin, wrote an article alleging the Regent of Bantul in Yogyakarta, Sri Roso Sudarmo, had paid a bribe of Rp.2 billion to Suharto’s Dharmais Foundation in order to be re-elected. Udin was bashed in front of his house and died three days later. Police refused to arrest the killer or the Regent. Instead, they chose a scapegoat, Dwi Sumaji, plied him with alcohol, tricked him into signing a confession and concocted a case against him so ludicrous that it was eventually thrown out of court. The killers of Marsinah and Udin have never been brought to justice, but as long as higher courts keep overturning the sham verdicts of lower courts, there remains hope that Indonesia may one day truly become a “negara hukum”.

EXPAT LIFESTYLE

MEET THE EXPAT

Eco-Village Hero

Meet Thomas Heinle

Karen Davis meets Thomas Heinle of Eco-Village Samosir on Lake Toba: a unique community where you may do something of value and really experience true village life on your holiday. By Karen Davis

Where were you born and raised? I was born in Munich and grew up in the south of Germany. At the age of 17, I already wanted to leave what I saw as the rich and senseless world of Germany.

ponds. This water is cleaner than the lake, and out of the plants we make bags, hats, mats, etc. It’s a strong fibre. Also, we’ve developed detox teas, and teas to prevent or heal cancer. These are based on graviola leaves and the Andaliman pepper. The teas are available internationally via our website (see details below).

What brought you to Indonesia and to Lake Toba, Sumatra? When I was 31, I flew for the first time on an aircraft. The following year in 1993 my girlfriend wanted to go to Indonesia. We went to Lake Toba, the natural lake created in the caldera of the world’s largest supervolcanic eruption, on Sumatra. I arrived there and immediately felt more at home than in Germany. How did you meet your beautiful wife, Ratnauli Gultom? In 2011 I lived for one year in Tuktuk on Samosir, the island in the middle of Lake Toba. One beautiful day I biked south down the coast until the end of the road. Two foreigners stood on the path and asked me if I wanted to meet Ratna. I asked them, who is Ratna? Then Ratna appeared. It was love at first sight. Tell me about Silimalombu, on the island of Samosir. Silimalombu is a village on the coast of Samosir, which Ratna’s grandfather founded around 150 years ago. Her father was the King of Silimalombu. In 2000 a huge Aquafarm started to operate here, where most people now work. How was Ecovillage Samosir started? Ratna came home from Jakarta in 2006 and found that all the beaches were full of dead, stinking fish. So, she started setting up an ecovillage along with other international volunteers. She focused on the composting of the fish. She is still fighting with the Aquafarm to avert destruction of Lake Toba. Ratna started to plant trees and has now planted more than 4,000 trees – she works with the international organization WWOOF (Worldwide Opportunities on Organic Farms). What is required to work in exchange for food and lodging at the Ecovillage? Do you offer an option for paying guests? If you want to stay in exchange for work; it is important you like working on a farm.

We want to show that paradise is already here: if people understand this, then they take care of the environment and we can have our paradise. If you come here only because you want to save money then it is better you work elsewhere. It’s a mindset: if your focus is poor, or only on saving money, then you won’t have the power to help to create the Ecovillage vision.

I like to empower the people. We do this with the Lake Toba Foundation (Yayasan Pencinta Danau Toba). The Chairman of the foundation and I have the same dream: to share the paradise of the hills from Samosir with the world.

Last year we decided to build a guesthouse and restaurant, serving seafood and pizza. You can book it directly or with Airbnb. We offer one day for Rp.120,000, including breakfast. For full board we charge an extra Rp.70,000.

Can you explain what your photovoltaic project involves? We produce all the energy for our new house with solar power. For lighting we use the 12-volt DC directly, and the whole roof construction is like the minus cable. Around the house we have one strong cable, which is the positive. You can use this power everywhere. It is accessed with an alligator clamp. We don’t need switches or other cables. With a simple car adapter you can charge your phone. We pump the water for our 13 aquariums on the terrace or inside the house with the solar system. We no longer have any blackouts.

What is a typical day for you? Get up at six with the sunrise; prepare some breakfast. In the morning we work on the farm or in the forest until lunchtime. In the afternoon we mostly do something around the house or work on our products. In the evening we sing or play chess, or just relax. What are some of your favourite activities on Lake Toba? Food designing is my specialty. I make mango wine, then mango vinegar, and distil the rest into white mango whisky. The mangoes from Silimalombu are a trademark Origin established by the Government.

What are some of the sustainable products you have developed, especially those based on the water hyacinth? The water hyacinth cleans the lake’s water. We built three ponds in front of our houses, where the dirty water is cleaned more. It is a perfect symbiosis with the fishes in the

How does one get involved with your Adopt a Tree programme? Just send US$50 via PayPal, and we’ll plant you a tree and take care of it for five years. Every six months we send you a photo of your named tree. But you also can come and plant the tree yourself! Tell us a funny story from your conservation exploits. Last weekend we were with our volunteer Daniela at a Lake Toba Foundation meeting. Three families offered to adopt Daniela! You have to understand that Batak society is built up from strong family clans. If you are in, you can use the whole clan for your needs. Daniela didn’t really have the feeling of a family in Germany before. Now she has three offers to choose from! How do you and your family envision the future of the Lake Toba area? We want to show that paradise is already here: if people understand this, then they take care of the environment and we can have our paradise. We state our vision for Lake Toba 2030 on the webpage: www. laketoba.net. Some of it is already turning into projects, so we hope to fulfil our vision by 2020.

Thank you Thomas! To find out more, please visit ecovillagesamosir.blogspot.com, e-mail heinlethomas@gmail.com, or call +62 8126 0858 209. www.graviolateacompany.com

Karen Davis is a NYC artist and writer

issue 148 Indonesia expat

EXPAT OUTREACH SPORTS Lorca is editor and co-publisher of Lines magazine, an Indonesian publication that covers environment, lifestyle and the best of local surfing. Find Lines on Facebook: Lines Magazine-Bali.

The Mentawai Islands

Surfing's Favourite Destination Ask any surfer to pick one place for their dream surf trip and the answer will surely be the Mentawai Islands, off West Sumatra. For surfers the Mentawais are a deluxe Disneyland of waves. With close to 70 tropical islands spread just south of the equator, facing directly into the Indian Ocean surf swell window, no other surfing destination offers such a variety of world-class spots clustered together in one small stretch. By Lorca Lueras

perfection with just the crew on your boat. The same goes for land-based guides, who know the sensitive changes the wind can go through during the day and how best to maximize the day’s surf on offer. It is this invaluable experience, garnered from putting in time here and paying dues, which makes a trip really come to life.

Another view of Lance’s Right with kids learning to surf in the front. Apparently an Australian named Lance was the first to surf it and kept it secret for years until the mainstream picked up on how good the wave was. Photo: @linesbali

Beach days never looked better than they do in the Mentawais. Photo: @linesbali

W Two different types of watercraft commonly used in the Mentawais: the longboat and the surfboard. Photo: @linesbali

A traditional Mentawaian dance and music group pose for a shot after a welcoming dance performance at Macaronis Resort on North Pagai Island. Photo: @linesbali

Surf Charter Boats www.kudalautsurf.com www.surfinmentawais.com www.tonyeltheringtonsurfcharters.com www.indiestrader.com Surf Camps/Resorts www.mentawaisurfingretreat.com www.kanduivillas.com www.kingfishermentawai.com www.macaronisresort.com

Indonesia expat issue 148

hether you are a World Tour pro, a seasoned veteran or a first-year beginner, there are Mentawai waves for all skill levels. Even the C-grade waves are better than most waves you will find on the California coast, while the A-grade breaks are easily the most perfect surf spots in the world. The chances are pretty high that you will find all-time surf at big name breaks such as Macaronis, Lance’s Right or Telescopes, which have become household names after featuring in countless magazines and high-profile surf videos. When you actually paddle out to one of these famous Mentawai waves on any good day of swell and clean conditions, you will witness the quality that made them so legendary in the surfing world. Indeed most days of good surf here appear, to the naked eye, to have popped right out of the pages of Surfer mag. It’s hard to keep something so good a secret these days, therefore it is common to find crowds at the best breaks. Several boats with up to a dozen surfers on board can be anchored at any time at certain waves, and there are often surf camps and resorts set up at the top waves too. Some estimates are that there are well over 30 surf charter boats and almost as many camps and resorts in operation throughout the Mentawai Islands, with more coming each year. Over the last several years the regional government has begun to capitalise on the popularity and marketability of Mentawai surfing by sponsoring several international Asian Surfing Championship (ASC) pro surfing contests together with classic surfing brand Rip Curl. Some of the recent events included several of the best single days of waves in the ASC tour’s history. Lance’s Rights and Macaronis were the two venues for the events, with surfers from

In some cases experience can also mean saving lives. This was the case when iconic Australian boat captain Tony “Doris” Eltherington rescued a South African surfer, Brett Archibald, who had fallen overboard at night in the strait between the Mentawai chain and Sumatra. Archibald spent 27 hours treading water, battling off sharks, sunburn and severe dehydration during his ordeal. He had almost given up but Doris, who knows these waters better than most, relied on his instinct and understanding of the ocean currents and their flow to find the unfortunate Archibald. Archibald’s is the only case of someone falling overboard and in general traveling through Mentawai is quite safe. Malaria protection and reef cuts are typically your main worries here – apart from breaking all your boards before the trip is done.

Local colour

Even the C-grade waves are better than most waves you will find on the California coast, while the A-grade breaks are easily the most perfect surf spots in the world Australia, Hawaii, France, Malaysia and more. Prize money and tour points were on the line. But even with international pros competing, it has always been Indonesian pro surfers who win. With surf communities developing on each populated Mentawai island, scores of locals came in boats from their home islands to compete. Many were just starting out and surfing on hand-medown equipment, but were still able to make it through several rounds. With the high-quality surf on offer here it is only a matter of time until some big name local surf stars come out of the Mentawais.

Tailoring your trip

With seventy islands on offer, your trip can really get interesting with a knowledgeable camp guide or boat captain, and some time at your disposal. Being able to read the surf, wind and weather conditions – thus knowing where to go and when – a seasoned boat captain can take you past the fringes of what’s commonly known and have you surfing off the grid in Indonesian

Although these islands have only been well known in surfing for roughly 20 years, the Mentawai people have been there since at least 500 BC. Mentawaian traditions hold strong, and even with the advent of Christian missionaries spreading their religion here over the centuries, some men still wear tribal tattoos and loincloths, and traditional teeth sharpening is still common. Many go to church on Sundays now, but many also still hold true to their ancestors’ animistic beliefs of the spirit world and the physical world existing together. Sikerei, or Mentawai animist shamans, are mediums between these two worlds and today they are still called upon to perform ancient rituals at important village events, or to aid the sick or deceased. They continue to be a respected part of Mentawai village life amidst the spread of technology and Christianity. Whether you opt to stay on the four main developed islands (Sipura, North Pagai, South Pagai and capital Siberut) or island-hop out further past tiny uninhabited islets surrounded by deep blue sea water, one can only gaze; realising that there is too much to see for one visit. It’s safe to say that for variety and bangfor-buck (or barrel for buck in this case), there is no surf spot more eager to please than the Mentawais. Even if you came here on every holiday you had, you’d never get bored. And that’s why so many surfers do come back, year after year.

issue 148 Indonesia expat

EXPAT OUTREACH WORTHY CAUSES

In the Trail of the Sumatran Tiger Chris Slappendal is an advocate for all endangered species and their habitats, whose passion for the Sumatran tiger led him to found the TigerTrail project. By Karen Davis

and geographically isolated, offering field he Sumatran Tiger (panther tigris biologists the opportunity to study the sumatrae) is the smallest of the effects of genetic isolation of a subspecies remaining five tiger subspecies versus those which have been able to on Earth. It has lived exclusively intermingle. As a result of this research, for the last million years in the important first-hand field data has been once-extensive tropical jungle on the generated which is relevant to all surviving island of Sumatra. The tigers’ population tiger subspecies. in the wild is heavily fragmented. Groups ranging in size from just a few to In 2012, Dutchman Chris several dozen can be found Slappendal decided to principally in and around dedicate a year of his life the Sumatran National slappendal feels it is to saving tigers. By 2013 Parks. Sadly the parks imperative that education he had started a project have been under siege efforts are stepped up to called TigerTrail, to recently, due to a raise awareness about tell the world about proliferation of palm the deterioration of our tigers and the sad oil plantations and the natural ecosystems, and environments they deforestation which live in, including tigers precedes them. the endangered species in captivity. He feels it is which depend on them imperative that education The Sumatran tiger efforts are stepped up to raise represents a uniquely hopeful awareness about the deterioration of opportunity for the survival of a pure our natural ecosystems, and the endangered subspecies in the tiger world. The Sumatran species which depend on them. Without our tiger is small, due to limited natural natural ecosystem intact, even humans will habitat and smaller prey. They weigh on not survive. average three hundred pounds, and may be up to eight feet in length. Extremely fast Since 2013, Slappendal has visited 23 swimmers, they feature webbing between countries, all of which had tigers or still their feet. Indeed, this animal is genetically

Dua Tangan Cukup

have tigers. Currently tigers roam in only 13 countries, whereas a hundred years ago they were present in 30. Tigers have lost 93% of their habitat in that time period. Slappendal feels Indonesia is an important country for tigers and their protection. Indonesia previously hosted three subspecies of tigers, but two have already become extinct: the Java and the Bali tigers. During his TigerTrail travels, Slappendal visited both areas, to see why tigers were wiped out, and to learn about the specific circumstances of these extinctions. On visiting Sumatra, Slappendal was frightened to see how fast the palm oil industry has taken over not only precious rainforest but parts of protected areas such as Kerinci Seblat, despite its protected status – posing great risk for the Sumatran tiger. To that end, Slappendal started the Tiger Trail project, to raise awareness, spark debate and garner publicity for the cause. The organisation remains in touch with other conservation groups and governmental organizations such as JAAN, ASTI, and the Harimau Kita forum (which represents many NGOs), with the main aim of cutting crosspurposes and uniting forces in their common efforts to save the Sumatran Tiger. Slappendal’s next project will start in the

Netherlands. He is going to sell ecologically and socially pure T-shirts. All profits shall go to initiatives to save wildlife. The brand will be called Icons of Nature. There will be a platform built where up-to-date content about wildlife may be shared, like a marketplace, so people can learn more about their favourite animal. Once operational, Chris plans on bringing it first to Indonesia, where the Sumatran Tiger will be a priority. Chris says, “I love the country, the people and the Indonesian kitchen. But to tell you the truth, what stole my heart was the Sumatran tiger. When I saw my first one in Jambi, it made my heart leap!” Long may this passion last to help such a beautiful, unique Indonesian creature.

Thank you Chris, Tiger advocate for life! To get in touch, go to www.tigertrail.org

Karen Davis is a NYC artist and writer

Actions From Across The Archipelago

Communities Gather to Clean Up Gunung Marapi in West Sumatra Chairman of the Parimbo Minangkabau Community, Roni Marianto, led an initiative to clean up the ascent trail of Mount Marapi in Tanahdatar, West Sumatra Province, in February this year.

Mount Marapi is a favourite of mountain climbers in Sumatra, visited by local and even foreign tourists. However, nothing ruins the beautiful sights of Marapi as much as littering, which has become common practice here.

The Penggerak Gaek Punju 40 Community and Putra Petualangan Minas Community from Riau Province also joined the clean-up.

"Some people complain about the state of the trail and camp grounds but take no meaningful action. Awareness needs to grow and it isn’t enough just talking about it. What started through a debate within our communities ended in the birth of a clean-up hike,” said Baronsai.

"Previously we have also done clean-ups with other communities and hikers of other volcanoes," said Roni Marianto, known by most as Baronsai.

The main target areas for the clean-up were the hiking trail, the famous peak of Marapi known for its boulders, the camping area and all existing check posts. All litter was carried down to the post tower resulting in a very successful clean-up hike. More clean-up initiatives will be organised by these communities and they hope that their actions will inspire other hikers to be more aware of their impact on hiking trails and bring all rubbish back down with them.

What’s your Dua Tangan Cukup action? Send them to cleanupjktday@indonesiaexpat.biz and we’ll publish them here to inspire others!

Indonesia expat issue 148

ANNOUNCEMENTS

Beef Import Permits Increased Again

Court Overturns JIS Convictions

Photo courtesy of au.investing.com

INDONESIA Strikes by butchers over the price of beef have led the Government to seek to import more cattle into the country, but Australian exporters are still awaiting confirmation on how the changes will affect them. Trade minister Rachmat Gobel has increased the number of permits for the importation of live cattle, local news outlets have reported, less than a month after it was announced permits would be slashed for Australia by 80% from 250,000 head of cattle to just 50,000 this quarter. It is unclear whether Indonesia will seek to increase imports from Australia, and whether it will take live cattle or boxed meat. “There’s a lot of speculation at the moment. We need to see the detail of

the specifications,” the chief executive of the Australian Livestock Exporters’ Council, Alison Penfold, said. A spokesman for the Australian agriculture minister, Barnaby Joyce, said he is “encouraged” by news that more permits will be released. But the Australian government is concerned about the uncertainty the current system creates for Australian exporters, the spokesman for Joyce said. “Fluctuating quota levels create uncertainty that in turn creates additional costs which are passed on to Indonesian consumers and industry, leading to higher food prices,” he said. Source: The Guardian

New Masterpiece from CEO SUITE in Indonesia’s Tallest Building

JAKARTA On 14 August 2015, the South Jakarta District Court overturned the convictions of Neil Bantleman and Ferdinant Tjiong. The teacher and teaching assistant had been sentenced in April to ten years in prison for alleged sexual abuse of three children at the international school. Bantleman and Tjiong’s friends, family and supporters have continually campaigned for their innocence, and indeed staff at the Jakarta Intercultural School have also vocalised their support. Their appeal was taken to the Jakarta High Court following the decision of the district court to throw out a $125 million civil case brought by the mother of one of the children concerned against the school for negligence. This came a day after a court in Singapore ruled that the woman accusing Bantleman had defamed him, Tjiong and the school because the

allegations of sexual abuse could not be proven. It ordered her to pay $164,700 in damages. New evidence from medical reports from three different hospitals in Jakarta and Singapore showed no major injuries or abnormalities in the three children, according to the court. Defense lawyer Hotman Paris Hutapea said on Friday “the truth is finally revealed and justice has been done.” The Jakarta High Court's decision could yet be appealed to the Supreme Court. Still imprisoned are four male janitors serving eight years for a related case and a woman serving seven for allegedly acting as an accomplice. A sixth suspect died in police custody. Their lawyer, Patra M. Zen, has hope that the release will positively influence the remaining cases.

New House Band DIESEL at B.A.T.S. Shangri-La

attention with interactive performances, which they now bring to Jakarta.

JAKARTA CEO SUITE, a premium serviced office provider, has launched its latest masterpiece, located strategically at the heart of Jakarta’s business district. Taking the whole Sahid Sudirman Center’s 56th floor, the unit is housed in the tallest building in Indonesia. During breaks, tenants can refresh their minds by looking out at the breath-taking city view. CEO SUITE redefines the serviced office concept by prioritising comfort in order to maximise productivity in an exclusive environment. With this latest unit, adjustable workspaces meet tenants’ needs; from those who do not have their permanent offices yet but wish to do business in Jakarta, to companies with special projects whose teams need to work outside their own base. In the new unit there is a spacious lobby, so guests can wait comfortably before meetings. Meetings can run productively in the conference room, which can

The band consists of seven talented individuals coming from different parts of the globe, from Los Angeles to Australia and Sweden. The cultural diversity creates a very strong dynamic within the group, especially as they all have one thing in common – their passion for music.

accommodate up to 20 persons. It is also supported by high-definition screens, so presentation materials can be viewed clearly. Further inside, CEO SUITE has separated the entire area into various sizes to be rented. Offices can accommodate from 1 to 250 persons. Wide walkways provide flexibility for access to the 50 available offices. Every office is fully furnished with executive chairs, desks, and cabinets, so tenants can immediately start their business operations in Jakarta. “This latest masterpiece is born after a long and serious discussion of design planning, to accommodate various demands from our various tenants in one integrated location. Classy, spacious, and innovative designs are our unique traits in the industry,” said Mee Kim, President Director and Founder of CEO SUITE.

JAKARTA The Shangri-La invites guests to refuel and energise with music by B.A.T.S.’ latest international house band, DIESEL. Music enthusiasts will enjoy this lively performance, which ranges from pop and rock to jazz, while hanging out in the bar’s New York, underground vibe. After three years of successful gigs around the world, this band has honed their ability to capture its audience’s

The vocal triad of Donita PG, Mimi Rom and Tre’Shawn Nation all have different singing backgrounds, including soul, RnB and gospel, but they are all equally complemented by guitarist, Thomas Gilbert, bassist Dean Gaudoin, and drummer Alex Nilzi. The harmony is completed with a unique addition: the alluring violinist Natasha Ratz. Ten years’ experience playing the instrument enables her to put her skills to the test across genres, giving them all a fresh new feel. Catch DIESEL from Monday to Sunday from 10.00pm to 2.30am, followed by the bar’s resident DJs, Boody and G Ponk. A selection of oversized portions of grub and plentiful options of beverages are also on offer.

issue 148 Indonesia expat

* Answers in the next edition!

LIGHT ENTERTAINMENT

CROSSWORD

The Greatest Show on Earth By Eamonn Sadler

y the time you read this the biggest and oldest comedy festival in the world will be over (or very nearly over if you live next door to our printer). The Edinburgh Festival Fringe (the official name of what everyone refers to as the Edinburgh Comedy Festival) is one of many festivals that take place in Edinburgh every year and is a truly spectacular affair. Every single available space in the city of Edinburgh is converted into a performance area and literally thousands of comedians from all over the world descend upon the city to put on performances – from free shows in tiny pub back-rooms featuring “unknowns”, to paid shows in huge theatres by some of the most famous comedians on the planet. If you have never been you should put it on your bucket list and make sure you do it at least once before you die. It really is a fantastic experience and the atmosphere in the ancient city is electric for most of the month of August every year. Every year the “Joke of the Festival” is decided by votes from thousands of comedy fans and published by the TV channel Dave, and every year there are some real gems. Unfortunately I can’t tell you who won the competition this year because I am writing this two weeks before the end of the festival, but I can share with you some of my personal all-time favourites to put you in the mood. I hope something here makes you smile!

Tim Vine: Crime in multi-storey car parks. That is wrong on so many levels. Jimmy Carr: I’ve got no problem buying tampons for my girlfriend. I’m a modern man. But apparently they are not a “proper present”. Dan Antopolski: Hedgehogs. Why can’t they just share the hedge? Nick Helm: I needed a password eight characters long. So I picked Snow White and the Seven Dwarves. Gordon Southern: I’ve got very sensitive teeth. They’ll probably be upset that I’ve told you. Alan Power: I think the most tragic thing about Jesus' life is that he probably never got to go swimming. Lloyd Langford: The only legitimate reason for smoking an electronic cigarette is if you are a robot that has just had sex with another robot. Eddie Peppitone: Let's have a round of applause for those who are easily led… Ria Lina: I wanted to do a show about feminism. But my husband wouldn’t let me. Don Earl Manse: French carpenters make the best louvers. Tiff Stevenson: Carpe phallum. Mitch Hedberg: Onions make me sad. A lot of people don’t realise that. Doug Stanhope: There’s no such thing as addiction, there’s only things that you enjoy doing more than life. Rodney Dangerfield: I’m so ugly my proctologist stuck his finger in my mouth.

Across 1. It might just happen (7,6) 8. Put away (4) 9. An uncle's place of business (8) 10. Organiser of musical events etc (10) 12. Maximum possible (6) 14. Large blunt needle (6) 15. Friend of Robin Hood (6,4) 19. Taking of another's territory (8) 20. Satellite (4) 21. Pun - parody low puns (anag) (4,4,5)

ANSWERS OF ISSUE 147

ACROSS — 1. Plausible 8. Rowan 9. Archaic 10. Unzipped 11. Idea 13. Inland 14. Humbug 16. Nose

17. Pollster 19. Leisure 20. Overt 21. Pikestaff DOWN — 1. Ping-pong 2. Azalea 3. Sock 4. Brandy butter 5. Exchange rate 6. Freudian slip 7. Swizzle stick 12. Bully-off 15. Bodega 18. Fuss

WANT FREE TICKETS TO THE COMEDY CLUB? Spotted by Barbara in Alun-Alun Debenhams Lippo Mall Kemang Send your funny pictures to letters@indonesiaexpat.biz

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Eamonn has lived and worked in Indonesia for over 20 years but doesn’t understand the country at all and now realises that he never will. He is an entrepreneur, businessman and writer, lead singer with expat band Xhibit A and the owner and operator of The Jakarta Comedy Club and The Bali Comedy Club.

DOWN 2. Final (8) 3. Drain (5) 4. (Money) laid down (7) 5. Show abject fear (5) 6. Depart without permission (7) 7. Prepare food (4) 11. Refuse to give (8) 13. Disgrace (7) 14. Large European lake (7) 16. Despicable person (5) 17. Elephant sized? (5) 18. 7 in water (4)

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HUMOROUS OBSERVATIONS Daniel Pope is a part-time hedonist, residing mostly in Jakarta, where he still finds everything a bit of a rum do.

Fun With Weapons Daniel Pope contemplates whether a foreigner could get away with murder in Indonesia. By Daniel Pope

y local hangout in Jakarta in the mid-1990s – a shabby streetside cafe where large bottles of Bintang beer greatly outsold food – was a secure place to be. The owner’s boyfriend was a young military policeman who, sitting around with his band of cropped-haired comrades, deterred any potential troublemakers.

than the eye could see – all the neighbours had come out to watch – and embedded itself firmly in the wall, precisely where the visitor’s chest had been a moment ago. Had Judd aimed to miss and then failed, then he was fortunate that his visitor had shifted. Though had his aim been accurate, it meant he was a homicidal crack shot.

The wobbly metal tables were often occupied by offduty policemen, mostly detectives, from the station down the road. Everybody carried a weapon; you could see the bulges made by pistols tucked into waistbands. The atmosphere was friendly enough but had a nononsense frigidity to it.

We had often discussed how easy it would be to get away with murder in Jakarta (my interest was academic – I assumed Judd’s was too). After all, only 10 years earlier, President Soeharto implemented a secret policy of having suspected street criminals killed and their bodies left on the streets to serve as a lesson to other hoodlums. Anyone with a tattoo out late at night was considered fair game. That’s the kind of city it was.

My friend Judd, a gregarious American expatriate, had been accepted into this crowd – indeed, given privileged attention – ever since he first strode into the cafe and conspicuously unfolded a copy of a glossy American gun magazine on a table. Judd knew how to make friends here. Indonesia has never had a gun culture, not counting Kalimantan’s blowguns, and professional weapons were not easy to obtain. However, just about every other kind of potentially deadly weapon – both legal and possibly legal – could easily be purchased at markets, roadside stalls, and at many of the toy or model shops found inside upscale shopping malls. Judd had amassed quite a collection of these miscellaneous munitions. Scattered around his house, which resembled an armoury, were knuckle-dusters, coshes, knives, axes, swords, darts, crossbows, BB guns, air rifles, you name it. Some had been modified and enhanced. His favourite item from this personal arsenal was a pistol crossbow. More than once this black metal weapon had been used to punch a hole through the water dispenser's chunky plastic bottle in order to either amuse or alarm guests, depending on whether or not they were welcome. Its lethality had been tested on a visitor who, scoffing at Judd’s boasts about the weapon’s power and range, had agreed to stand against the wall at the end of the alley 30 yards away and be shot at. He was convinced the dart would lose momentum and drop to the ground before reaching him.Thankfully, his courage deserted him and he hopped aside just as Judd pulled the trigger. The metal dart traversed the length of the alley faster

freewheeling prostitution spot.Into the foyer of this busy den of debauchery marched Judd one evening. He gave the armed soldier sitting on a stool inside the door a friendly mock salute, started chatting with him, and in next to no time had taken possession of his semi-automatic rifle. The soldier had simply surrendered it to him to have a fiddle with, just like that. No weapon was beneath Judd’s interest. The proprietor’s son at my local cafe, a Chinese lad who had been robbed several times in his notorious Tanah Abang neighborhood, had been showing Judd a stun gun that he wanted to sell. This small hand-held device could deliver a bone-jarring 50,000 volts of electricity at the press of a trigger, enough to incapacitate any assailant. Judd gleefully played with the device while drinking his coffee – looking around in vain for some way of testing the gun’s effect – and relishing the blue spark which crackled across the contacts. Soon he had negotiated a satisfactory price, and was about to shake hands on the deal. However, to my surprise and to the Chinese lad’s disappointment, he suddenly changed his mind, calling the deal off.

Even though Judd didn’t own a proper gun, he had handled plenty of them. This he achieved by way of charm, guile and brazenness, somehow persuading otherwise rational individuals that he, not just a complete stranger but a stranger from a country infamous for gun-wielding lunatics, was a fit person to let play with their weapon, even for just a minute. Once, when he was arrested during a traffic accident and I had gone to the police station to pay the bribe for his release, I found him in a back office being allowed to handle a policeman's unholstered sidearm as though it were a fountain pen rather than a deadly weapon, while he and the officer blithely discussed ammunition types.

As we left the cafe, he explained that as badly as he had wanted to buy the stun gun, he dared not. This was because he’d have been unable to resist using it. And that would have entailed either roaming a dangerous neighbourhood until a mugger had attacked him, thereby giving him the excuse of self-defence, or else simply by zapping the nearest innocent Its lethality had been tested person. Like me, for instance.

on a visitor who, scoffing at Judd’s boasts about the weapon’s power and range, had agreed to stand against the wall at the end of the alley 30 yards away and be shot at.

The best opportunity for him to get his hands on weapons came in July 1996. A political stand-off between the authorities and supporters of then-opposition figurehead Megawati Sukarnoputri ended in bloodshed. The streets of Jakarta resembled Belfast in the 70s, with soldiers on patrol and guarding key locations. One of those locations was Hotel Tambora in Blok M, South Jakarta. Presumably it warranted such heavy security on account of being frequented by Western males, who came there in droves for the convivial atmosphere, rather than because of its function as Jakarta’s most popular

Basically, he had come to his senses – an extremely rare occurrence for Judd with regard to weapons. It was also fortunate. Had he been in a less circumspect frame of mind, he would undoubtedly have snapped up the device and thought nothing of rampaging through a busy market, leaving a trail of bodies writhing on the floor. Not that indiscriminate violence was out of place in Indonesia. The 1996 mayhem lit a fuse of further unrest that led to the eventual fall of President Soeharto in 1998, when soldiers were too preoccupied to let a foreigner play with their weapons. Despite the chaos, the cheap seedy bars remained open for brisk business. Some of those bars are these days being raided by Immigration officers, brutally apprehending foreigners not carrying passports. It’s a good job Judd isn’t still there – he certainly wouldn’t go quietly. issue 148 Indonesia expat

If you want your event to be posted here, please contact +62 (0) 21 719 5908 or e-mail: events@indonesiaexpat.biz

EVENTS

JAKARTA

Music

Arts & Culture

Indonesia Jazz Festival 2015

Spesimen Sejarah Alam 16 August – 15 September 2015 This exhibition showcases art pieces relating to the sojourns of Alfred Russell Wallace (18231913). Presenting 24 artworks from local and international a r tist s, the ex hibition is in Salihara Community. Featured international artists include Fred Langford Edwards, Lucy Davis, Geraldie Juarez, Flora Lichtman & Sharon Shattuck, Shannon Lee Castleman, Ed Scholes & Tim Laman and Robert Zhao Renhui (Institute of Critical Zoologists). www.Salihara.org

29–30 August 2015 Five stages will present bands from different jazz genres this August. More than 120 local musicians will participate in the event, ranging from famous Indonesian jazz musicians to the newly discovered talents. Enjoy the performances of Indonesia’s jazz legends this August at Istora Senayan. indojazzfest.com

17 September 2015 The Indonesian Heritage Society w ill be earnestly kicking off its new, exciting season at our ‘Selamat Datang’ gathering at Erasmushuis, 9:30am-12:00pm. All are welcome to come along and learn more about our interesting fun activities and events such as Explorer Tours around Jakarta, Study Groups, Film Screenings, Lecture Series, and Eye-Opening Heritage Tours throughout the archipelago. Great opportunity to join or renew membership, meet new and old friends, and find out what IHS is all about. Automotives

11 September 2015 This will be the second time Bon Jovi has performed in Indonesia, this time held at Gelora Bung Karno Stadium. Bon Jovi has released 12 studio albums, plus two compilations and two live albums, having sold more than 100 million records worldwide. Live Nation Indonesia expect over 40,000 fans of all ages to attend. Get your tickets at www. rajakarcis.com

Indonesia expat issue 148

BALI Sports Nose performance troupe, a four course dinner, free-flow beer and wine, and a charity auction! This is Red Nose Foundation’s biggest event of the year, where all their donors and supporters have the chance to join together for a good laugh, good food and lots of fun! Tickets are Rp.1,350,000/guest or you can reserve a table for 8 guests at Rp.10,000,000. For tickets and more info, please contact info@ rednosefoundation.org

ANZA ‘Groovy Ball’ 11 September 2015 The annual September ANZA Ball is back! This year, the theme is ‘Groovy Ball’! Time to form a table with a group of friends or join a table and make new ones at this must-attend themed event. People, get your groove on and get ready! Purchase your tickets from ANZA House at Rp.1,600,000. Email anza2015@gmail.com for enquiries or call 021-71793042

Sports

Mandiri Jakarta Marathon 25 October 2015 The Mandiri Jakarta Marathon will start and finish at Jakarta’s Monas. 50 countries took part in the marathon last year, 1,200 out of 14,120 participants were f r om o t he r c ou nt r ie s . T he international event consists of three categories: full marathon (42,195km), half marathon (21, 10 and 5 km) and children’s sprint. www.thejakartamarathon.com

Indonesia International Motor Show 20–30 August 2015 This is the exhibition automotive lovers have been waiting for! Business a spec t s a s well a s aut omot ive c u lt u re w i l l b e combined together with enter entertainment and education. More than 30 leading brands will take part in the exhibition, from both cars and motorbikes. www.indonesianmotorshow.com

Networking

Holistic Healing clinic, to find out about your health. Pamper yourself with some Spa time with massage and manicure-pedicure. Heal your mind and soul with some live music at the spot. Satisfy your hunger with from local food vendors. Feast your eyes and shop at the Bazaar. Find a spot and relax to entertain yourself with movie screening. Enjoy!

Family

Bon Jovi Live

Selamat Datang - Indonesian Heritage Society Event

for the second consecutive year! Walk, run or dance through five unique 1km music zones. The music zones, Rock, Pop, Old School, Hip Hop and Dance, prom i se t o prov ide f u n for everyone with each zone having its own unique, interactive activities. This year’s event will be a ‘Twilight Run’ – with gates opening at 3pm, a Pre–Party at 3.30pm, the run at 4pm and an awesome After Party with an amazing festival line-up, including Jakarta Beatboxers and top DJs. Registration now open at www.themusicrun.loket. com/music-run-2015/2698 or at Sevelin kiosk in 7-eleven stores.

BWA Welcome Back Night – A Night of Magic 29 August 2015 The BWA’s annual ‘Welcome Back’ Event is fast approaching. Guaranteed to be a fun-filled evening with live entertainment from Josh the Magic Man, buffet dinner and drinks. Rp.450,000 for members and Rp.550,000 for non-members. Email events@ bwajakar ta .org for more information. Charity Red Nose Festival of Laughs and Charity Auction

The Music Run 5 September 2015 After the success of the last year’s event, The Music Run will be bringing the beat back to Jakarta

12 September 2015 At the Raff les Hotel, Jakarta, the Red Nose Foundation will host the Festival of Laughs and Charity Auction. The event is a fall comedy gala featuring a full line up of local and international comedians, musicians, the Red

AIS Family Fun Day 5 September 2015 Australian Independent School (AIS) Indonesia will hold its most popular event again in September, from 3.00- 6:30pm. At one of the most inclusive schools in Jakarta, this event organised by A IS Parents & Friends will be a great chance for the school to connect with its wider community. Expect lots of game booths for all ages; entertainment including a magic show and dance performances; displays by exciting retail vendors; yummy food stalls and a grand firework display – it’ll be a cracker of a day! The event is open to all and tickets will be available at the gate upon presentation of a valid ID. Family Fun Day also offers opportunity for brands to connect with the existing and newly arrived Expat families; in the form of event sponsorship, raff le prizes and vendor stalls. For more information regarding the event or to book a stall email marketing@ais-indonesia.com.

Jaya Festival Jakarta 29 August 2015 Join this one-day celebration of life through Music, Art, Yoga, Food and Shopping! Bring the family and find lots of things to do for all ages. For yogis, unroll your mat and join 8 yoga classes. Bring your children too for some playtime with Kids Yoga at the Patio. Check yourself in at the

opp or t u n it y f or a r t i s t s t o deeply immerse in the spirit and practical k nowledge of illustration. Beginner illustrators or working professionals will have the opportunity of being mentored by these leading artists. The workshop will improve skills, build connections, which will enable the illustrators to take deeper steps into the industry. Ther e w i l l b e t wo bat c he s of workshops with 20 seats each. Send your application to application@ illustrationworkshopbali. c o m b e f o r e 3 1 s t o f J u l y. baliillustrationworkshop.com

Bali International Triathlon 25 October 2015 Nu s a D u a w i l l b e home of t he eig ht h ‘ Tr i at h lon w it h a Soul’, a race that has won numerous awards, including Best Destination Triathlon. The event comprises a full Olympic triathlon, a half-triathlon and a 5-kilometre fun run. It is expected to draw over 1,000 athletes from some 30 countries, including more than 500 Indonesian triathletes. The race w ill beg in shor tly after sunrise with a swim in the tranquil waters of Jimbaran Bay, followed by a bike sprint to Nusa Dua and finishing with a road race. Participants can now register online through the official race website. www. balitriathlon.com

Bali Bonn Dance Camp 31 August – 6 September 2015 A six-day dance camp with the world’s best Latin dance coach Ralph Lepehne in Bali, this will be an unforgettable experience. Take the opportunity to have ten private lessons of intensive study and training with experts and dance personalities, held in ES Studio Bali. Open for professionals, amateurs and pro-amateurs. www.balibonndancecamp.com

BORNEO Festivals

Bali Beach Run 6 September 2015 Bali’s first running event wholly on the beachfront offers fun to participants of all ages. In its third year, the run is expected to draw more tha n 1,800 runners to traverse the length of Kuta-L eg ia n- Seminya k beach. Competition categories: 10km, 5km and a 2.5km fun run. Registration fees are Rp.150,000 for 2.5km, Rp.200,000 for 5km a nd Rp.250,000 for 10k m. Online registration at w w w. balibeachrun.com Arts & Culture Bali Illustration Workshop 11–22 November 2015 For the first time in Indonesia, Kekai Kotaki, Danny Luv isi and Dave Rapoza will present an international illustration w ork s hop i n B a l i . A g r e a t

Bali & Borneo Photography Adventure 20–27 November 2015 Join experienced adventurous professional travel photographer Mark Rayner and Masterclass photographer David Metcalf on a photographic adventure of a lifetime. You will have the opportunity to photograph a variety of wildlife in the Borneo, including a visit to a private island to see the orangutans by special arrangement. There will also be a three-day houseboat trip and cruise up the river visiting Dayak villages. Enjoy a special performance of Dayak music a nd da nc e a nd phot og raph the stunning sunsets in the wetlands as the native hornbills sweep across the sky. For more info, please contact +62 (0) 812 53881385.

INDONESIA EXPAT DIRECTORY

INTERNATIONAL, DOMESTIC, LOCAL, OFFICE MOVING, STORAGE Call Francois 085 8838 98678 E-mail: francois@safeway.co.id or Firdaus: 0812 945 6005 E-mail: firdaus@safewayrelo.com Website: www.safewayrelo.com “RELOCATION MADE EASY’’

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INDONESIA EXPAT DIRECTORY

Santa Fe provides moving services — International, domestic, local & office, document storage & management services, real estate, property management & maintenance, orientations, visa & immigration and home contents insurance.

We Deliver Stroopwafels in Indonesia to your home or office 1 pack/ quantity of 8 pieces regular plain (9cm) for Rp. 60.000 1 pack/ quantity of 8 pieces regular choco (9cm) for Rp. 65.000 Call: 021 766 4465/ 081 114 90400 or e-mail: info@altjebakery.com

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DB Schenker can handle your move smoothly and efficiently from A to Z. The DB Schenker relocation service handles the complete planning and organization of a move, and of course ensures it is completed on schedule. DB Schenker relocations is your ideal moving partner with the competitive edge.

Bartele Gallery is the only dedicated shop in Indonesia which focuses on antique maps, prints, photographs, books and antiquities, ideal for a unique gift for that special someone. Come and browse through hundreds of old and original maps and prints from all across the globe!

Call us +62 (0) 21 719 0087 or E-mail: info@bartelegallery.com and visit our Facebook: facebook.com/ bartelegallery for more information

Contact: Ovilia Faratika Mobile: +62 81 8844 777 E-mail: ovilia.faratika@dbschenker.com E-mail: removal.jkt-id@dbschenker.com

INDONESIA EXPAT DIRECTORY

TO BOOK SPACE ON THIS DIRECTORY PAGE CALL: 021 719 5908

issue 148 Indonesia expat

Spanish Tutor: Learn Spanish at your place with a DELE-certified examiner from Spain. Most of my students come from International Schools (JIS and BSJ). Please call me (Raúl) +62 (0) 821 1050 2786 Email: unascartas@yahoo.com

HAVE SOMETHING TO SELL? Looking for something to buy? Looking for staff? Selling property? Or need a place to live? Why not place your classified ad with Indonesia Expat! Your classified will be placed once for 2 weeks online and once in our printed version which has a circulation of 16.500 copies bi-weekly. Next deadline: 1 September

Spanish/Indonesian translators: If you need experienced and native translators to translate in this language pair (both ways) please call us (FNA) +62 (0) 812 8821 5625 Email: elejakarta@ gmail.com

CONDITIONS Personal classifieds Commercial classifieds

Free of Charge (50 words max) Rp. 100,000 (0–50 words) Rp. 200,000 (50–100 words)

A full time Bahasa Indonesia instructor has some openings for expats interested to have Bahasa Indonesia lessons. Please call +62 (0) 813 17914231

Property listings are considered as Commercial. Adding an image incurs an extra charge of Rp.150,000. Business Listings can only be placed on the Business Listings page (p.30) Send in your classifieds to ads@indonesiaexpat.biz

in Indonesia Expat Forum” to join discussions on a wide range of topics regarding expat life in Indonesia . For intending resident s, newcomers a nd seasoned veteran expats alike, all will find a supportive community at www.livinginindonesiaforum. org Personals

Jakarta Looking for work Do you need a par t-time bookkeeper to help you run your small businnes or household? I have accounting experience working for large businesses. I am hard working, puncual, and like to keep busy, I am Titi, you can email me at : siewibiman@yahoo.com or call/ sms/whatsapp+62(0)83897184423 Looking job as a driver. My name: Zulkarnaen. 38 years old. My address : Jl.Puskesmas 1 no.14 rt004/07, Duri Kosambi, , Jakarta Barat. Working experience :PT Universal 2011-2014. If there a need driver contact me please by my hp : +62 (0)81388905794 +62(0) 82299238639. Property For rent 300 houses at Kemang, Cipete, Cilandak, Jeruk Purut, Pondok Inda h. Big ga rdens, swimming pools, USD 2,000 5,000. Phone: +62 (0) 816 859 551 or +62 (0) 817 009 3366

House for Rent. One nice house 2 storey, one large joined pool, b e a ut i f u l g a r de n , 2 4Hou r s security compound, no cement w a l l be t we en hou se s i n t he compound. Approx imately 500m2 house with 1,000m2 land, located at Jl. Margasatwa Raya, 10 Minutes to Cilandak Commercial Estate. USD3,000 per month with minimum one year lease. If interested (no Broker/Agent), call owner +62 (0) 811 180605.

ads@indonesiaexpat.biz for competitive advertising rates and get noticed through our printed publication, e-newsletter and on our website. 28

Indonesia expat issue 148

A newly renovated Penthouse area 510 M2 at 17th (top) floor in Emerald appt. next to Talavera building at Jl. T.B. Simatupang with 4 Bedrooms, a children play room, two living / TV room / dining room ( one at main level and one at mezzanine level ) maid room with separate kitchen facility available for rent for long term/ short term . Price can be discussed based on requirement (Fully furnished, semi furnished or unfurnished)? Interested parties for viewing please contact Miss Tika . Mobile no. +62 (0) 8111676678 or E mail tika.syaputri@yahoo.com / ravi. rajdeep@gmail.com

House for Rent in Kompleks Wisma Subud,Jl. RS. Fatmawati no.52 Cilandak South Jakarta. 2 stor y. 200sqm f loor area. 4 bed rooms, 3 bat hrooms. Unf ur nished. L ap pool. 10 minutes to TB Simatupang Tolls and Pondok Indah. US$ 1,800/ month. Long-term rental of 1 year preferred . Contact: +62 (0) 21 766 4904 Murti /rumah. arsip14@gmail.com

Taman Botanik compound, 4 BR, 1 maid quarter, swimming pool, 24 hrs security (gated and guarded), fully renovated 2013, close to Cilandak commercial estate, international schools, intl clinics, Ampera, Simatupang. Swimming pool (4 ea in the compound), f itness, tennis court, compound manager and 24 hrs technician, contact owner: +62 (0) 81280095871, email: Sofymuh1@yahoo.com. Google map: https://www.google.co.id/ maps/place/Taman+Botanik/@6.3061002,106.8167706,15z/da ta=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0xe740a0c 9ced531dc Services Certified Clinical Hy pnotherapist. English & B a h a s a S p e a k i ng . H ig h l y conf identia l. Appointment based. +62 (0) 081286739918 Private Yoga Tuition: Invest in your body, mind and health w ith private yoga tuition. I of fer a holistic approach to yoga that develops the student's physical, mental, psychological and hea lth elements. With qualifications from India, Nepal, USA, Australia, Thailand and Indonesia you can rest assured you are receiving an excellent level of guidance and training. Please contact beckyduffield@ gmail.com Bahasa Indonesia lessons for expats living in South Jakarta, Kuningan, Country Wood, BSD, given by instructor with 20 years experience. Flexible Schedule. Please call Pak Chairuman +62 (0) 812 103 7466 email chairuman1942@gmail.com

C&C Construction is a home builder and remodeling construction company. From concept to completion, we manage all the phases throughout the entire design and build process. We are reliable and dedicated to fulfilling your dreams. For free consultation, please tel/sms Bill at +62 (0) 81 808 194 180 or email billthieroff@gmail.com Simple Ba ha sa Indonesia for housewives – to deal with household help: drivers, nannies, and shop keepers. Please contact: +62 (0) 811961340. You can make an appointment, teacher will come to your house at any time convenient for you. Music therapy uses the expressive elements of music as the primary Elements of interaction between therapist and client (British Association of Music Therapy, 2012). Music's form and structure can bring order to children and adults. As a non-verbal means of communication, music is used to express feelings, relieve depression, and reduce emotional distress. In music therapy, we aim to promote wellbeing through improvisation, music listening and other musical activities. To find out more about music therapy services, please contact: Monica Subiantoro *UK Certified Music Therapist +62 (0) 815 88 444 61 musickintherapy@gmail.com Excellent gardener seeking new position in PI/Kemang/Cilandak/ Cipete. Our gardener during our stay in Jakarta, proved to be a decent handyman and poolman as well as a gardener. He have a scooter and do errands as asked. Pak Pur is now available and is looking for a good employer to work for. Please email Irene Knardal at knardals@yahoo. co.id for more information and contact details. Hi all,We are looking for a Livein Nanny/ Cook. Must be able to cook simple meals for toddler. E-Mail: irene_d@hotmail.com. Thank you. New to town? Have unanswered questions? Looking to meet other expats? Join the “Living

Do you need an impressive date for your next corporate event? Someone to share a genuine and interesting day or evening with? I am a graduate educated, wellspoken, attractive, healthy 30 year old caucasian female. Blonde hair, blue eyes, English (& Bahasa) speaking, slender build with a great sense of style. I can add class, intimacy, fun and interest to any situation. This is a non-sexual service, but I can pose as anyone you like. Please contact chelsea. arnold11@gmail.com “A multi-skilled mechanical engineer with good all-around technical mechanical expertise. Very capable with an ability to diagnose faults on vehicles and successfully repair or replace defective par ts. Productive, ambitious, team player, able to work to deadlines and targets, self-motivated, organized and able to multita sk. Hav ing a c omprehen sive 30 ye a r s of experiences on diesel engines, coaches, buses, mar ine and tr uck s, I a m now look ing for new and challeng ing mechanical engineering position in management or training.” People could reach him in +62 (0) 8118301112. Currently he is looking for engineering work (a ny thing f rom mecha nic a l engineering, maintenance and technical). And he is British citizen. His email address is jhomer2654@yahoo.com Will you be the next Bangka Bule? (Housemate Wanted). Three expat entrepreneurs (and a sassy kitten) are looking for a cool guy to complete their foursome at a 5 bedroom / 4 bathroom villa in Jalan Bangka 11C. Adam, one of the bules, is leaving his fabulous life in Jakarta to ride off into the sunset of Hongkong with the woman of his dream (that would be me). Details: • Spacious, bright, and fullyfurnished room of 25sqm on the second level. • Access to shared guest bedroom that we also use as a walk-in wardrobe and study room. • Shared bathroom with shower.

• A large, green backyard complete with a swimming pool and a Sundanese-style gazebo • Villa is fully-furnished. Just bring your clothes and booze. • Conveniently situated in South Jakarta, just 2 minutes away from Kemang. • Available starting from October 1st, 2015. • All this for only IDR7,500,000 per month + utilities • Whatsapp Adam +62 (0) 838 75377583 or Paola +62 (0) 813 85958580 for more info. Photos: http://on.fb.me/1gQhbAG. Note: Candidates will be interviewed before confirmation.

condition. IDR4,000,000 Pick up in Cipete, Jakarta Selatan For info and pictures, please SMS +62 (0) 8119936039

Selling lego city 4439 for IDR 600,000. still new in the box. Not open yet. Please email paulina. incha@yahoo.com or Whatsapp +62 (0) 87782183556 for pics request.

Just moved to Jakarta and would like to buy: Dryer - maximum 3 years old. Small Fridge for maid's area. Potted plants. Please SMS/ Whatsapp Kelly on +62 (0) 821 7546 8281

We are moving from Jakarta very soon, and we sell our furnitures: Gazebo: IDR2,000,000 Garden table: IDR1,500,000 Teak sofa: IDR2,000,000 Table: IDR2,000,000 Chest of drawers: IDR500,000 Teak console: IDR2,000,000 Samsung Microwave: IDR500,000 Coffee table: IDR900,000 Plants, bird cages, decorations, lamps.....Contact: Julie Deschard, Tel: +62 (0) 87776045854

Hi, we are looking for swimming lessons for our almost 3 year old boy. Does anyone know a good and reliable instructor that can go to our building and provide the lessons? We are in Pakubuwonono Signature.Any information you can contact me at mayale23@ hotmail.com. (Mayra)

Original "Lazy boy" recliner chair. Brown leather in good condition. IDR5,000,000 Small oak filing cabinet, two drawers, f it A4 folders. IDR1,000,000 Student desk, solid teak, in good

Sell Apple Watch sport 42mm with blue sportband. Unpacked! Won in a lotter y in Europe. P r ic e: I DR 5 , 8 0 0,0 0 0 I DR non negot iable. P ick up i n Pondok Indah, Jakarta. Email: hartmert42@gmail.com

Jogjakarta Property Experience staying at a beautiful original antique Javanese Joglo villa in the foothills of Mount Merapi. Joglo Ago is a three double b e d r o om v i l la w it h gardens perfect for a weekend retreat from the hustle and bustle

of city life. In close proximity to Mount Merapi and Borobudur Temple. Visit w w w.jogloago. com for more information, or call Indah +62 (0) 8123563626 (owner).

Pelabuhan Ratu Property

Discover Villa Gamrang. Experience our hospitality and the complete privacy of your own beach house. Villa Gamrang (Cisolok beach, 4 hours’ drive from Jakarta) is designed to offer guests a wonderful and luxurious holiday with beautiful and natural surroundings. Stylish interior, several outdoor terrace’s, sea view, spacious garden, swimming pool, 4 bedrooms and 3 bathrooms, complete kitchen, cable television, internet (WiFi). Idyllic place for couples or one or two families. Staf f and in house cater ing ava i lable. At tra c t ive pr ices starting from IDR1,800,000 per night. Most of our guests visit us again. Reservations www. villagamrang.nl or just mail us at villagamrang@gmail.com

issue 148 Indonesia expat

Indonesia expat issue 148

issue 148 Indonesia expat

Indonesia expat issue 148