Indonesia Expat - issue 149 by Indonesia Expat

EE ! FR I S S U E N O . 14 9 | 9 – 2 2 S E P T E M B E R 2 0 15

J A K A R TA • J AVA • B A L I • L O M B O K • K A L I M A N TA N • S U M AT R A • S U L AW E S I • W E S T PA P U A

W W W . I N D O N E S I A E X P A T. B I Z

TRANS-SULAWESI RAILWAY TO BOOST ECONOMY BANGKA ISLAND: WHO WILL UPHOLD THE LAW?

FOUNDER OF TEDxMAKASSAR MILA SHWAIKO

THE BADA VALLEY: INDONESIA'S OWN EASTER ISLAND

issue 149 Indonesia expat

Indonesia expat issue 149

issue 149 Indonesia expat

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

Dear Readers, Editor in Chief

Angela Richardson angela@indonesiaexpat.biz

Editorial Enquiries

letters@indonesiaexpat.biz

Management

Edo Frese edo@indonesiaexpat.biz

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Dian Mardianingsih ads@indonesiaexpat.biz

Distribution & Admin

Juni Setiawan admin@indonesiaexpat.biz

Graphics

Frederick Ng Katarina Anindita

Finance

Lini Verawaty finance@indonesiaexpat.biz

Contributors Karen Davis Annali Hayward Heru Nainggolan Eamonn Sadler Simon Still Antony Sutton Grace Susetyo Kenneth Yeung

When I was a child living in Bandung, my father had a work contract on a project in Palu, Central Sulawesi. My family and I would travel to Palu on school holidays to visit my dad, and the summer we spent in Sulawesi gave me some of my fondest childhood memories. My brother and I were always outside having fun, discovering pristine and empty beaches, playing on Palu’s hilly landscape catching crickets and flying kites and racing homemade boats in neighbouring creeks. My father was the head of Palu’s Hash House Harriers at the time, so his rental house often hosted HASH parties where clean new trainers would end up being your drinking vessel if you weren’t careful. Suffice to say it was a wonderful summer and one I will never forget.

Island-lookalikes is unknown, and they vary in size from just a few centimetres to 4.5 metres. Turn to our Lifestyle Section for the full story.

many happy memories in my childhood. Sulawesi is home to many ancient wonders, including the oldest hand stencil in the world. The cave paintings of hands and animals in Maros Regency, South Sulawesi, are at least 35,000 years old which make them some of the oldest artworks ever found! Grace Susetyo discovers another ancient marvel in Sulawesi – the magnificent ancient granite megaliths in Sulawesi’s Bada Valley, which date back to 3,000 BC! The original purpose of these Easter

This issue we focus on Sulawesi, the uniquely-shaped island that gave me so

Our Feature Story is more solemn in nature and focuses on the Save Bangka Island campaign. Although in July, East Jakarta’s District Court ruled a mining company’s license to operate on Bangka Island be revoked, North Minahasa’s Regent, Sompie Singal, has ignored the ruling and the situation has taken a turn for the worse. Kenneth Yeung exposes what the real condition is like for this naturally stunning island and its residents located in the heart of the Coral Triangle. We hope you enjoy reading this issue.

Angela Richardson Editor in Chief

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I wanted to thank you for bringing to light many stories not being covered in other publications. Every issue that you produce has meaningful and insightful information and observations on issues that not only plague this country, but praise it as well. You and your team should be commended for the work you do and I am very thankful that you are here doing what you do.

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The Cover A megalith relic in the Bada Valley of Sulawesi by Magdalena & Thomas

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Issue 149

Contents

Feature Story Activists Say Sharia Law Perpetuates Violence against Women in Aceh

Expat Business

Business Profile Milward Brown: The Business of Branding

12 14 16 18

Featured Trans-Sulawesi Railway to Boost Economy Without Private Investment

Meet the Expat A Sulawesi Story: Horst Liebner

Expat Outreach

Sports Indonesia's Oldest Football Club: Persatuan Sepak Bola Makassar

Worthy Causes The Buku Kami Project

Announcements

Light Entertainment A Person, Another Person and a Third Person Walk into a Bar

Food & Drink Fairmont: Full Spectrum for Foodies

Observations Sulawesi, Don't Wait

Travel Bada Valley Arcas: Indonesia's Easter Island

Events

Business Directory

Scams in the City You Say You Want a Revolution?

Classifieds

Meet the Expat Ideas Worth Sharing: Mila Shwaiko

Expat Lifestyle

issue 149 Indonesia expat

FEATURE STORY

Photo courtesy of Save Bangka Island

Appetite for Destruction The Indonesian president, the maritime minister and the Supreme Court are all too weak to stop a Chinese mining company from operating illegally on a small, protected island in North Sulawesi. Unchecked environmental destruction sets a dangerous template for the nation’s future. By Kenneth Yeung

hat do you do when your country has some of the most beautiful and biodiverse marine areas on the planet, capable of providing food and jobs for millions of people? If you’re a local government official in North Sulawesi province, you illicitly license the destruction of this natural richness for short-term financial gain. And despite fiery nationalist rhetoric against foreigners taking Indonesia’s wealth, you bring in a Chinese company to do the dirty work. Such is the fate of Bangka Island, located northeast of the provincial capital Manado. The island is part of North Minahasa regency and covers just 4,778 hectares. It is home to about 2,400 people, most of them making a living from fishing, farming and tourism. The island should not be confused with Indonesia’s better known Bangka Island off the southeastern coast of Sumatra. Bangka’s woes started back in 2008, when the Regent of North Minahasa, Sompie Singal, issued a permit to PT Mikgro Metal Perdana (MMP), a subsidiary of China’s Aempire Resource Group, to explore for iron ore on the island, despite opposition from locals. A broader permit was issued in 2012, even though mining is prohibited on islands smaller than 200,000 hectares under Law No.27/2007 on the Management of Coastal Areas and Small Islands. Local residents, supported by conservation groups and the operators of Bangka’s five small eco-resorts, sued Sompie over the illegal permits. They won. The Supreme Court in 2013 upheld a lower court’s ruling

Indonesia expat issue 149

that the permits must be revoked. Sompie challenged the verdict. He lost, but pressed ahead with the mining project. In July 2014, then-Mines and Energy Minister Jero Wacik – who was later forced to resign and arrested as a corruption suspect – issued MMP a license to mine on Bangka. Locals sued. East Jakarta District Court in July 2015 ruled the mining license illegal and ordered it be revoked. Sompie ignored the ruling. Police in North Sulawesi, who are under the leadership of Brigadier General Wilmar Marpaung, are refusing to enforce the ruling. Instead, officers of the Mobile Brigade (Brimob) anti-riot police are guarding MMP’s facilities on Bangka. You may think: Indonesia has more than 17,500 islands, so what difference does it make if one little island is mined? It makes a huge difference because such flagrant disregard for the law bodes disaster for the country’s future. There is nothing clever about generating wealth for a foreign company and its local political patrons by unsustainable, illegal exploitation of natural resources. Future generations will be left with a legacy of pollution, destruction and poverty. Anyway, Indonesia has 13,466 islands, as many of those counted in the 17,500 tally are submerged during high tide, so do not qualify as islands.

Tipping the Balance The most high-profile opponent of the Bangka mining project is a man named Akhadi Wira Satriaji, better known to millions of Indonesians as Kaka Slank, lead vocalist of legendary rock band Slank.

This band was credited with securing Joko ‘Jokowi’ Widodo’s election as president. In early July 2014, when it looked like former general Prabowo Subianto would be propelled to the presidency by his wellorganised and well-funded campaign, Slank staged a massive show of support for Jokowi with a free concert attended by about 75,000 people in Jakarta. Taking place just four days before the election, it received nationwide coverage and proved to be a turning point that tipped the balance back in favour of Jokowi, who won with just 53 percent of the vote. Jokowi was extremely grateful to Slank and still has the occasional meeting with the band. So it was not surprising that the president had the State Secretariat in April issue an official letter to the Home Affairs Ministry, ordering it to deal with Sompie’s defiance of the Supreme Court’s ruling. Maritime and Fisheries Susi Pudjiastuti is reported to have also sent an official letter, asking Energy and Mineral Resources Minister Sudirman Said to put a stop to MMP’s activities. These letters proved to be worthless. North Sulawesi’s officials use regional autonomy powers as justification to do as they please, violating national laws and court rulings. National Police chief Commissioner General Badrodin Haiti has failed to take action against Sompie and MMP. Last year, when Badrodin was deputy police chief, he met with Kaka Slank and Bangka representatives, telling them that police would take action if Bangka is mined without permission. Mining is yet to commence, but locals

fear it will start soon, now that MMP has constructed most of its supporting infrastructure, including a harbour, conveyor belts and staff accommodation. After the mining license was ruled illegal, MMP slowed down its activities and laid off some Indonesian workers, while Chinese staff remain on the island. “The court’s decision means nothing,” says one dive resort operator. “The local government acts as if nothing happened at the court.” Construction of MMP’s harbour damaged reefs, destroyed mangroves and created significant sedimentation. Visibility in some previously spectacular dive sites has decreased from 30 metres to just 10 metres. The company even damaged the once clean spring water supply for Kahuku village, which has opposed the mining from the outset. Villagers now rely on a smaller spring that produces brackish water. They are dismayed that no one in power has the political will or clout to uphold the law.

Coral Triangle Bangka is located in the heart of the Coral Triangle, which is home to more than 75 percent of all known maritime species on the planet and a global priority for conservation. The roughly triangular area encompasses part of the seawaters of Indonesia, the Philippines, Malaysia, Papua New Guinea, Timor-Leste and the Solomon Islands. Under the Coral Triangle Initiative, Indonesia is committed to marine biodiversity conservation, but the government’s failure to protect Bangka’s coral reefs has made a mockery of that commitment.

Kenneth Yeung is a Jakarta-based editor

Construction of MMP’s harbour damaged reefs, destroyed mangroves and created significant sedimentation, PT Mikgro Metal Perdana In addition to the Coral Triangle, Indonesia is committed to a commercial maritime development called the Bitung Special Economic Zone. The port city of Bitung is located on the southeastern shore of North Sulawesi’s northernmost tip. Alongside it is an island called Lembeh, while to the north is Bangka. North Sulawesi Governor Sinyo Harry Sarundajang says Chinese businesspersons have agreed to invest Rp.35 trillion ($2.46 billion) in the Bitung Special Economic Zone to develop infrastructure, as well as fisheries processing, manufacturing and pharmaceutical industries. Once completed, the economic zone will become a major trade hub between Indonesia and China, and the largest container terminal in eastern Indonesia. Part of the project is the planned reclamation of up to 241 hectares of coastal waters. Environmentalist Robin Marinos, founder of the Earth Advocates group and an occasional visitor to Bangka, says reclamation destroys coral reefs and other marine life, “for the financial benefit of private investors and their political patrons”.

If North Sulawesi were to expel MMP for its illegal activities, such action may jeopardise the Bitung investment deals at stake with China. Or it may simply send a signal to play by the rules. Is there any hope for saving Bangka? Maybe. Indonesia will hold local-level elections on December 9. Sompie is standing for re-election as a candidate of the Indonesian Democratic Party of Struggle (PDIP) – the same party as Jokowi. There’s a chance he may lose to his popular predecessor, Vonny Panambunan, a former corruption convict who is now with Prabowo’s Great Indonesia Movement Party (Gerindra). Locals say Bangka has a better chance of being saved if Vonny wins, although her corruption record does not inspire great confidence. Angelique Batuna, who manages Bangka’s Murex resort, describes Bangka as a gift from God that doesn’t need further work, let alone mining. “The island is beautiful with white sandy beaches, mangroves, endemic species. The underwater life is just amazing. Tourists from Europe, Asia and the US travel more than 20 hours just to come and enjoy all that. All we have to do is take care of it.”

Bangka Island in Sulawesi by Fabio Achilli

Photo courtesy of Save Bangka Island

issue 149 Indonesia expat

EXPAT BUSINESS FEATURED

Trans-Sulawesi Railway to Boost Local Economy Without Private Investment

The Government will fund the Trans-Sulawesi railway project entirely, without private investors, in hopes that it will pull foreign money to the region later. By Heru Nainggolan

he construction of 4,679 kilometres of railway along the coastline of Sulawesi, known as the Trans-Sulawesi railway project, is expected to stimulate Indonesia’s economy in coming years, even as the Government deems the project unattractive to foreign investors. According to the Transportation Ministry’s Director General for railways Hermanto Dwiatmoko, the project will be funded entirely from the Government’s coffers, as public railway transportation projects rarely bring in enough revenue to entice private investors. “All [of the initiatives] will be funded with rupiah because this is not commercial, it’s not benefitting [investors],” Dwiatmoko tells Indonesia Expat in an interview. “This project is strictly the responsibility of the Government.” Dwiatmoko says the Government never planned to attract private backers to the Trans-Sulawesi railway, as it knew from the start it would be a tough sell. The rural island has far less economic activity than its more urban neighbouring islands of Sumatra and Java. For this reason, Dwiatmoko believes it will still be years before private capitalists take a

Indonesia expat issue 149

serious interest in Sulawesi’s infrastructure. “When it comes to building infrastructure, we can’t [think too much about] making money or not. We are thinking for the next 50 to 100 years,” explains the Director at his office in Central Jakarta. “If the railway doesn’t exist now in Sulawesi, it might be alright. But what if we’re too late in building railways [there] like [we were] in Jakarta? We’re too late in building an MRT here and look how bad the traffic is now.” The Trans-Sulawesi railway project is estimated to cost Rp.216 trillion (US$15 billion), and if construction is carried out according to plan, the line is scheduled to begin operating in 2018. However, Dwiatmoko says this year’s budget for the project stood at a mere Rp.971 billion (US$69 million), consisting of Rp.200 billion (US$14 million) for land acquisition, Rp.52 billion (US$4 million) for concrete installations, and Rp.719 billion (US$51 million) for the railway construction. “We’re targeting to install 16.1 kilometres of railway by December 2015,” says Dwiatmoko. However, the project is already behind schedule. The first phase, construction of a 145-kilometre line from Makassar to Parepare — both cities in South Sulawesi — was supposed to begin in July, but was ultimately postponed.

Local administrations failed to complete land acquisition for an initial 30-kilometre stretch of land in June. Dwiatmoko says he is sure local administrations will be able to acquire the rest of the required land by the time President Joko Widodo inaugurates the construction stage of the Trans-Sulawesi railway come midOctober. “Jokowi has planned to be there [for the groundbreaking ceremony],” says Dwiatmoko, adding that the rails will be imported from China and Japan. Both nations are also currently vying for the opportunity to help build the bullet train from West Java. As of August, out of 871 different plots of land that needed to be acquired, only 458 have been secured, says Dwiatmoko. The plan is that these important 30 kilometres of land will be purchased using the regional government’s budget in the amount of Rp.100 billion (US$7 million). “Payment for the land acquisition [using the regional budget] has reached 60 percent and the rest will be finished this month,” South Sulawesi transportation, communication, and information bureau head Masykur Sulthan told the public in August. Now, Dwiatmoko says the rest of the first phase will be funded by the state budget, with the central government

claiming to have allocated Rp.200 billion (US$14 million) in an effort to acquire 70 more kilometres of land. “So that leaves us with 45 kilometres of railway left [with no allocated budget yet],” he explains. Despite what the director general says about a groundbreaking ceremony, the Trans-Sulawesi railway, in fact, already had one in 2014. The then-coordinating economic minister Chairul Tanjung was in attendance. But alas, the project has been stalled since the ceremony, primarily due to a lack of funding, along with ongoing land acquisition conundrums that are all too common in the archipelago. Trans-Sulawesi falls under Jokowi’s nationwide railway project that’s looking to lay down 12,100 kilometres of track across the nation and utilise US$60 billion between 2015 and 2030. Dwiatmoko says the Ministry will need Rp.19.84 trillion (US$1.4 billion) to start all the railway projects this year. Although no private investors will be involved in the projects this year, he says, private sectors were expected to contribute at least 70 percent of the funds needed for railway projects over the next 15 years. This is optimistic, considering foreign investors like Japan and China will need to come into

Diesel locomotive courtesy of Wikipedia Commons

Although no private investors will be involved this year, the Transportation Ministry’s director general for railways says private sectors are expected to contribute at least 70 percent of the funds needed for related projects over the next 15 years. play, and many Government policies run counter to such efforts — some legislations encourage foreign private investments while others seem protectionist and nationalistic. “For this year, the nationwide projects will be exclusively financed by the state budget because a public-private partnership [PPP] mechanism for Kalimantan and Sumatra will not be feasible and profitable,” the Director General reaffirms. With such a large budget at stake, antigraft activists have also raised concerns that a mega project like the Trans-Sulawesi railway is ripe for corruption in the form of embezzlement. A recent study by the Indonesia Corruption Watch (ICW) shows infrastructure and regional budgets are the sectors where cash is most often siphoned from. It places local administrators at the top of the list when it comes to this form of corruption. The Ministry’s railway directorategeneral secretary Imran Rasyid says all transactions in the Trans-Sulawesi project are sure to be transparent and accountable. “No hard cash will be involved. All transactions will go through bank accounts. Moreover, the documents in the land acquisition process have to be clear, such as the original owner of the [...] land and whether that person truly owned the land before or not,” explains Rasyid. Apart from Sulawesi, the country’s other big railway projects will take place in Sumatra, Kalimantan, Java, Bali, and Papua. The Government hopes to cut Indonesia’s high logistics costs, which often result in a lack of competitive goods prices when pitted against those of other ASEAN countries. That said, Dwiatmoko says a railway project

like Trans-Sulawesi is expected to boost the local economy by making it faster and easier for people to transport goods, thus making a less dense population in Sulawesi more attractive to private investors. “What’s important is for the railway to exist first, then the demand [for businesses] will start coming in,” he adds. Railways are also an integral part of Jokowi’s “sea toll road” maritime programme, in which as many as 11 major and feeder ports are currently being modernised. The push is an effort to ease passenger traffic from the eastern to western parts of the archipelago, and vice versa. Aside from personal transport terminals, however, 13 ports will be specially designed to facilitate cargo handling. The ports are in two of the working regions run by state-owned port management firm PT Pelabuhan Indonesia (Pelindo). Cities in Sulawesi, such as Makassar and Parepare, are also included in Jokowi’s maritime programme. Dwiatmoko suggests the fates of railway and maritime infrastructure projects are in fact intertwined. He says, “If there are ports but no inter-land connection [to transport goods to and from the ports], the maritime programme will simply go to waste.”

Heru Nainggolan is a Jakarta-based freelance writer and journalist who’s been covering a variety of issues since 2011.

issue 149 Indonesia expat

EXPAT BUSINESS BUSINESS PROFILE

Millward Brown

The Business of Branding By Annali Hayward

Mark Chamberlain is Managing Director of Millward Brown Indonesia, the global research agency behind this year’s inaugural BrandZ™ Top 50 Most Valuable Indonesian Brands. He talks to us about the brands Indonesians love, and Indonesia’s rising global profile.

First, what does Millward Brown Indonesia do, in a nutshell? Simplistically I like to talk about “guiding and growing great brands for Indonesia”. Our purpose as an organisation is to help our clients grow their brands and businesses. We do this through research and consultancy that relates to brand strategy, brand measurement, creative development and channel optimisation.

BrandZ is the most robust brand valuation technique globally as it is underpinned by a very strong understanding of the people who really count: consumers buying brands. In Indonesia we covered 14,000 consumers and 350 brands across 28 categories. Indonesia is only the fourth market where WPP has invested in a local ranking, which shows its importance and emergence in the global marketplace.

BrandZ is Millward Brown’s annual study of brand value, combining consumer research with financial data, which is now in its tenth year globally and with separate rankings for China and India. Why Indonesia, and why now?

In your results launch in late August, BCA Bank came first with a brand value of US$9.9bn. What do you hope Indonesian brands will learn from the results of the study? Six years ago when Millward Brown and

WPP launched the China Top 50 there was only one Chinese brand in the Global Top 100 – today there are 14. BCA was very close to getting into the Global Top 100 this year. My hope is that we will see two or three Indonesian brands break into the Global Top 100 within the next five years. In order to do that Indonesian brands will need to build brand love with consumers, and become more innovative with their offers and in their communication. On average the Top 50 Indonesian brands underperform significantly in these two areas versus Top 50 counterparts in other markets. In layman’s terms, what are some of the methods you used to gather the opinions of the 14,000 Indonesian consumers surveyed? I’ll try to explain this without revealing the geek in me! We did 28 separate category surveys with consumers of those categories across a few major cities in Indonesia. Depending on the nature of the category, some surveys were done online, some on mobile and some face-to-face. This data was merged with publicly-available financial reports. BrandZ is the largest equity database in the world, so we’ve created proprietary frameworks linking our data to commercial outputs like share prices. We’ve produced models to try and make it all sexy but easy to understand. Does that pass the geek test? What is important to Indonesian consumers today? How long will you give me? There are some real tensions facing Indonesian consumers today that have a unique Indonesian twist if you probe deep enough. For example, 65 percent of Indonesian consumers say they want cultural experiences that will broaden their horizons, but 73 percent worry the values and traditions they most appreciate are being eroded by global influences. Probe deep enough and you can uncover how Indonesians are renegotiating nationalism practices to cope with this tension. There are many other societal tensions. The best brands understand these tensions and work out where they can offer a credible point of view and how they can play a role in championing societal benefits.

The brands heavily present in the Indonesia Top 50 provide a pretty accurate representation of life here. Banks, tobacco, telco, trusted household brands and real estate developers dominate the Top 50 – and in the one hour I spend getting to work every day these categories are all very visible! It’s also interesting to note the categories that are not in the Indonesia Top 50. Take technology: this accounts for nearly half the value of the Global Top 100. In China brands like Tencent and Alibaba have been all-conquering. Tech is not represented in the Indonesia Top 50 yet, but I think the sector here is on the verge of big things over the next five years. What proportion of brands in the Top 50 are Indonesian-created and owned? How does this compare to other emerging economies? There are two criteria for inclusion in the ranking. First the brand must be publicly listed, and secondly it has to be either owned by an Indonesian enterprise, or an Indonesian-created brand owned by a multi-national. So most brands are local. The two main exceptions are the Unilever portfolio and Aqua. Interestingly Unilever have done such a good job localising their brands that many consumers think their international brands like Ponds, Sunsilk and Rinso are Indonesian. Aqua is synonomous with Indonesia and is owned by Danone, listed in France. The remaining 40 brands are Indonesian-owned, six of which are state-owned. Which Indonesian-grown brands have the best chance of success abroad in the future and why? Millward Brown’s brand equity framework includes a measure called Potential which indicates the probability of market share growth locally. Predicting success abroad is more difficult due to the increasing number of variables. To be successful abroad, Indonesian brands will have to do what successful multi-national brands have done in Indonesia. They will need to understand the consumer and brand landscape in the markets they want to expand into and find ways to adapt and tweak their propositions so they are meaningful to consumers in those markets.

Tobacco brands represent US$14.8bn, or 23 percent of the Top 50 brands’ overall value – the second highest sector after Financial Services. Why are certain sectors strong here?

Clearly the current Top 3 Indonesian brands have the scale to break into the Global Top 100 – BCA, BRI, Telkomsel. A brand like Indomie (#14 in Indonesia) is already sold in many countries and is

(hibah); C. International trade transactions D. Bank savings in foreign currencies; or E. International financing transactions

that quoting goods or services within Indonesian territory must also be in Rupiah.

BUSINESS SNIPPETS

Mandatory Use of Rupiah in Indonesia By Hadromi & Partners Law Firm

Bank Indonesia (BI) has issued Regulation No. 17/3/PBI/2015 regarding the obligation to use Rupiah in the territory of the Republic of Indonesia (PBI 17/2015). 10

Indonesia expat issue 149

This is the implementing regulation of Law Number 7 Year 2011 regarding currency. Overview PBI 17/2015 requires every transaction within Indonesian territory be made in Rupiah. Transaction means both cash and non-cash transactions which include: A. Any payment transactions B. Other obligation settlements which must be fulfilled with money; and/or C. Other financial transactions However, the following transactions are exempted from such mandatory use of Rupiah: A. Certain transactions with respect to the implementation of state budget (“APBN”) B. Receipt or provision of overseas grants

For any transaction which is not exempted from mandatory use of Rupiah, it is prohibited to refuse to accept Rupiah as payment or settlement, unless the genuineness of the Rupiah banknote received is doubted (in cash transactions), or such payment or settlement in foreign currency has been agreed upon in a written agreement. However, this written agreement can only be made for transactions which are exempted from mandatory use of Rupiah, or strategic infrastructure projects approved by BI. Furthermore, PBI 17/2015 requires

Sanctions under PBI 17/2015 are as follows: A. Criminal sanction for violation of mandatory use of Rupiah for cash transactions is imprisonment of one year maximum and a penalty of Rp.200.000.000,- (two hundred million Rupiah) maximum B. administrative sanction(s) for: • violation of mandatory use of Rupiah for non-cash transactions are written reprimand, payment obligation (1 percent of the transaction value or up to one billion Rupiah), and prohibition to participate in any payment transactions • violation of quoting in Rupiah and

Annali Hayward an English freelance writer and editor based in Asia. You can get in touch at annali.s.hayward@gmail.com.

There are some real tensions facing Indonesian consumers today that have a unique Indonesian twist if you probe deep enough.

hugely popular in some African countries. Mayora is another Indonesian business with ambitious regional and global expansion plans. Finally I would also bet on an Indonesian tech brand doing a smaller scale ‘Alibaba’ and floating for a large sum in the next five years. Tell us about your journey with Millward Brown to your position today as Managing Director Indonesia. I joined Millward Brown as a University graduate and fell in love with understanding brand building and communications effectiveness through a consumer lens. Millward Brown has been fantastic at giving me a variety of opportunities, including a secondment with GlaxoSmithKline and sponsoring me through a programme called The Marketing Academy in the UK. Having done regional and global client roles, the opportunity to run the business in Indonesia came up. I

was actually born in Kediri, East Java and lived in Surabaya for ten years as a child. So, I didn’t need much convincing to be part of the Indonesia story. Times may be a little tough at the moment but these are pivotal years that will shape Indonesia’s contribution to the global economy over the next 15–20 years. What are Millward Brown Indonesia’s plans for the future? One of my favourite sayings is that “standing still is the fastest way of moving backwards”. We’ve done a lot to re-orientate the business around our purpose to “guide and grow great brands for Indonesia”. Success in the future requires us to develop our consulting offer, scale our digital and automated research solutions, invest in talent and build on the fantastic brandbuilding thought leadership that we’ve developed through BrandZ. BrandZ will be back annually for the next few years.

To find out more, visit: www.millwardbrown.com, or e-mail mark.chamberlain@millwardbrown.com

reporting obligation (if so requested by BI) is written reprimand Any written agreement concerning payment or settlement in foreign currency, other than those for transactions exempted from such mandatory use of Rupiah or strategic infrastructure projects as above, which were made and entered into before 1 July 2015, remain valid until such agreement expires or is terminated. The extension and/or amendment thereof are subject to PBI 17/2015. BI may apply certain policies if there is any difficulty, with certain characteristics, in implementing such mandatory use of Rupiah for non-cash transactions faced by any parties relevant to PBI 17/2015.

With regard to the policies BI may apply, any party with certain characteristics may submit an application to BI asking for its discretion to apply policies to resolve the difficulty in implementing the obligation under PBI 17/2015. SEBI 17/11DKSP states that BI, in issuing the policies, considers the readiness, business continuity, investment activity, and/or business activity which has significant impact on national economic growth.

For further information on the implementation or effect of this regulation, contact Hadromi & Partners Law Firm (www.hadromi.com) or e-mail info@hadromi.com or phone call +62 (0) 520 7040.

issue 149 Indonesia expat

EXPAT BUSINESS MEET THE EXPAT

Ideas Worth Spreading

Meet Mila Shwaiko If you’ve been to TEDxUbud or TEDxMakassar, chances are you’ve seen Mila busy in action. Born in Australia to American and Australian parents, Mila was raised in Ubud from two months of age and has spent the majority of her life in Indonesia. She talks to us about her work at TED, the Eastern Indonesia Knowledge Exchange (BaKTI) and her life as a ‘third culture kid’. By Angela Richardson

Are you a Balinese woman in an American/Australian body or an Australian/American woman in a Balinese body? My heart belongs here, that's for sure. I don't think I could ever pass the 'test' of being Balinese, especially a Balinese woman – that’s like having a PhD by the time you are 20, as well as mastering three languages! What identity challenges do you face being a third culture kid and how has this made you the woman that you are today? When I was younger it was a struggle. Physically I wanted so badly to look Balinese and fit in and then I was always horribly homesick anytime I had to leave the island. I felt like an alien in the 'outside world'. It has left me mixed up, but if you gave me a 'do over' I wouldn’t change anything. I got to see and experience such amazing things and I appreciate being able to understand the grey areas of life, community and identity. My least favourite question, however, is 'where are you from?’ – even after all these years my brain freezes and you will see a blank look creep into my eyes. How long did you spend living in Makassar and how would you describe life in this city? I spent four full-time years in Makassar and a few more years living there part-time. I loved living there. Bali is not Indonesia, so this was a full immersion into Indonesia for me. Makassar has changed so much; it's such a city now. I appreciate my time there when it was still a bit quieter. Makassar is all about the food, the harbour, Chinatown and the people. Tell us about your work at BaKTI in Makassar and what lessons this experience taught you. BaKTI, or the Eastern Indonesia Knowledge Exchange, was a development support facility set up to explore how knowledge management can sustain better development in the 12 poorest provinces of eastern Indonesia. My time at BaKTI was the best thing that could have happened to me. The people I worked with were from the region and really embodied and upheld the principles of local ownership and community-led development. I'm eternally grateful that's how I learned the ropes; not in some office in Jakarta, or outside of Indonesia. I remain passionate about exploring how knowledge and communication can change communities thanks to my time with BaKTI. In 2010, you founded TEDx Makassar. What inspired you to do so? I was inspired by TEDxBali in 2009. I really wanted to bring the experience and spirit of 'ideas worth sharing' to Makassar and it really fit with the work BaKTI was doing, 12

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especially in terms of championing eastern Indonesia and Makassar voices. We ran TEDxMakassar with the aim of only putting people from Makassar and the region on stage, to help inspire and make Makassar proud of what people in their own communities were doing. What are the main aims of TED talks? TED is all about 'ideas worth spreading' in the fields of technology, entertainment and design. The best part about TED talks is the fact that they have a great formula and break down the most complicated issues and ideas, so the average person can understand them too.

Makassar is all about the food, the harbour, Chinatown and the people.

You must have seen extreme changes take place in Ubud and Bali in general since your childhood. What are the positive changes you’ve noticed? My neighbours and friends now have electricity and running water, and money to go to school, build good houses or see a doctor. And that's all because of the money that comes in from tourism and Ubud's development. I just worry that they (or their kids) won't see a fair share of that in the future. They are losing control to people who have more money and no sense. And Ubud's leadership seems missing in action. What message do you have for spiritual tourists who decide to make Ubud their home? Once you move past being a visitor and want to say “I live in Ubud”, then it's time to do a crash course in Indonesian language and take some time to read about the place you live in. Preferably before figuring out the easiest way to make money off it, while congratulating yourself on how smart you are to have moved to such a cheap place with a great climate. And definitely before you start complaining about the locals, the environment, the traffic, and the things that aren't like the West! How do you think tradition and culture could live hand-inhand with progress? Bali is hanging on pretty strongly to its culture, especially in Ubud. What is a problem is the lack of voice the Balinese have in their island's development and how 'investors' are completely unchecked. The environment and local economy is under serious threat. The Facebook account Bali: How Much is Too Much? is a frightening page to follow. Saying that, the Tolak Reklamasi and Save the Sawah movements give me hope – it looks like people are finally feeling strong enough to stand up and have a voice.

For the last couple of years you’ve been co-producing TEDxUbud, an inspiring annual event that takes place on May 28th, 2016. Tell us about your vision for TEDx Ubud. I joined the TEDxUbud team as Co-Curator and CoProducer in 2013. TEDxUbud has really tried to bring international thinkers and creative people to Ubud, as well as celebrate home-grown ideas. The next event will be our fifth and we really want to continue to inspire and push our audience members to think even bigger and aim higher than they already do, which is a huge task. Tell us about your upcoming new project that you’re working on. With the founder of TEDxUbud, Daniela Burr, I'm in the process of setting up a new company called Elami & Co. Daniela and I worked so well together during the TEDxUbud process, we decided to set up a company focused on designing events, experiences and communications for businesses in Bali and around the world. We are so excited to be putting this together and are planning some very interesting projects once we get set up properly!

I know that you enjoy diving in your spare time. Where has been the most memorable dive spot for you in Indonesia? Bangka Island in North Sulawesi, right between Bunaken and Lembeh has great macro life to keep my camera happy, no huge crowds, warm water and beautiful coral. And I am very happy that after years of fighting a mine looking to set up right in the middle of this underwater haven, the environmentalists and locals seem to have won! What topics of discussion ignite passion in you? Anything Indonesia- and Bali-related, guaranteed.

Thanks, Mila! To get in touch, please e-mail: mila@tedxubud.com

issue 149 Indonesia expat

EXPAT LIFESTYLE

FOOD AND DRINK

Full Spectrum for Foodies

Jakarta’s Sunday brunch game is on point, and new entrant Spectrum at the Fairmont is hoping to get in on the action. By Annali Hayward

e humans have always been innovative things. We have a long list of important inventions under our belts, all of which have furthered our interests and generally contributed to the common good. The steam engine. The iPhone. Penicillin. Brunch. Think about it. When else is it acceptable to consume – in no particular order – oysters, pancakes, steak, Champagne and coffee in one sitting? For brunch (little sister to lunch, big brother to breakfast) is truly a fabulous invention. Something of an emergent Sunday tradition in Southeast Asian hotels, it simultaneously allows your inner fat kid to run free, whilst you get slowly sozzled and catch up on a week’s worth of gossip with friends and family. What else is there in life, really? It was with pleasure, therefore, that we visited the new Fairmont Jakarta Hotel’s Spectrum restaurant, for their Sunday special. The Fairmont, in Senayan, has been open for six months, and there is a distinctly sophisticated, suave feeling to the place, with dark woods and cool greys in the restaurant. Between noon and 3pm, Rp.595,000++ will get you free reign of the Spectrum buffet, including mojitos and unlimited soft drinks. A pretty good deal as brunch goes in this city. But who are we kidding, what you’re really here for is the Rp.1.2m++ free-flow beer, red, white or sparkling wine. Although their wine list (including by the glass) is pretty good, at today’s prices it’s probably worth going for the package if you’re going to drink more than one. To the food. What can a hotel really do to differentiate itself these days? You’ve got kiddy-friendly at the Shangri-La, Indo-chic at the Dharmawangsa, and allout extravagance at the Mulia. So where on the spectrum is the Fairmont?

Spectrum – Fairmont Jakarta Jl. Asia Afrika No.8, Gelora Bung Karno, Senayan, Kebayoran Baru, Jakarta 10270 +62 (0) 21 2970 3333

Annali Hayward is an expert eater, decisive drinker, fumbling fashionista and tasteful traveller, who writes to savour it all – preferably at once. E-mail her at annali.s.hayward@gmail.com

Indonesia expat issue 149

At first glance, it’s the same classic brunch buffet stations: fruit, eggs, seafood and meats, salad, waffles and pancakes, noodles and dessert. At any hotel brunch buffet, you expect to find competent, freshly-cooked versions of all of these at least. But there needs to be something more to titillate today’s taste buds and scare off the competition – and Spectrum provides that. To begin with, the basics themselves are pretty good – but they should be. There’s not really any excuse for less-thanperfect eggs, smoked salmon, and pastries. It’s when we get to the more interesting stuff that the restaurant shows its quality. Spectrum’s chefs bring around special freshlyprepared amuse-bouche, such as foie gras morsels, or a really delightful pumpkin ‘espuma’ (warm, foamy soup) squirted into your glass at the table – this was so good, we had two. You can also pick up little hors d’oeuvres from the buffet – we had some delicate, fresh crab bites with a light watermelon jelly to start us off.

“When else is it acceptable to consume – in no particular order – oysters, pancakes, steak, Champagne and coffee in one sitting?” Indicating the hotel’s popularity with north Asian customers, there is also an excellent sushi station. The freshest fish is whipped into sashimi before your eyes, served with the proper accompaniments of ginger, wasabi and sauce. Continuing in the Asian theme, we saw congee, noodles, ayam bakar, dim sum, and Peking duck to name just a few. The Indian selection, including a wonderful dal makhani, was great – this black, buttery, rich lentil dish is perfect when mopped up with naan bread. The tandoori chicken was delicious: very soft, but still expertly chargrilled on the outside. If you’re in more of a Western mood, look no further than the prime-rib, sliced to your liking. You can do this American style with mini baked potatoes and barbeque sauce, or full-on Brit with Yorkshire puds and gravy. No prizes for guessing which one I opted for. Though not quite my mum’s, the Yorkshires were a very welcome little taste of home, and the gravy well-flavoured. Also in the Western theme (via Mexico) were chicken tortillas and guacamole – another unusual find at hotel brunch buffets, which tasted authentic. There’s even pizza and pasta if that takes your fancy. The real clincher for Spectrum, though, is their chargrill station. Here, amongst an array of many other meats, fish and crustacea, you can have a beautiful, plump lobster expertly grilled to order and brought to your table. For a moment I thought my toes were in the sand on Jimbaran beach. This, for me, was one of the main things that sets Spectrum apart. The desserts were ever so slightly less impressive than I expected, consisting mostly of a range of mini cakes, jellies and mousses. But to their credit there’s a great selection of local sweets, including a little glass jar of bubur injin. The homemade ice creams and sorbets were also good; I tried the guava. So, after a mammoth feast lasting nearly three hours, we felt we had done Spectrum’s brunch offering justice. Whether it was for the good of humanity or not remains to be seen (my waistline thinks not) – but either way we ended the meal in agreement: brunch, especially in Jakarta, is a superb invention and should be indulged in as often as possible. Next time, give Spectrum a go. You won’t be disappointed.

issue 149 Indonesia expat

EXPAT LIFESTYLE

TRAVEL

Boys climbing Watu Palindo

Watu Baula

Bewa village roundabout

First Day Arca

Situs To Manuru

Bada Valley Arcas: Indonesia’s Easter Island

ada Valley is about a two-hour drive from Tentena, a small town by the shores of Lake Poso, Indonesia’s third-deepest lake. The air turned noticeably cooler as the shared car entered the highlands, only to break down midway. The rugged serpentine road made me nervous enough to reach for seat belts. Not long after we got help and the car’s engine started, we saw another car upside down in the deep ditch just off the road – the driver said it fell the night before while trying to navigate the dark. I was surprised that my smartphone had full mobile network coverage as we entered Bada. “We just got it last year,” said a local. I stayed at Losmen Immanuel in Gintu village, the administrative capital of Bada Valley. I walked with an American backpacker I met in Tentena, JK, to the neighbouring village of Bewa. “Hello, Mister,” the village kids would greet us. By the village roundabout decorated by a monolithic figure, we hired ojek to take us to the nearest arca. The hills the ojeks took us to flaunted a 180° view of Bada Valley, with green meadows and lush gardens framed by blue mountains. “Tell the ojek this has been one of the most beautiful views I’ve seen in Southeast Asia,” said JK. A smiling monolith with clenched fists looks out to the view. We then rode towards Bomba to see another small monolithic woman among abandoned traditional houses. Nobody knows much about the story behind these houses and its watchwoman of stone. As the sun set, JK told me his travel tales of getting high with indigenous community leaders at an ancient Mexican monument. We walked through rice fields and spotted each village’s stained glass churches, still ornate with Christmas decorations. “I’m amazed that in a place as remotely Eastern as this Bada Valley, people still have such a westernised image of Jesus,” remarked JK. The next morning, we followed local guide Sjuman to To-Manuru, a fenced, decapitated figure and another obscured arca that blends in with the fence. The monolith in the centre used to be the guardian of a banyan tree, but now a ketapang tree is in its place. To-Manuru was believed to be the

Indonesia expat issue 149

The Bada, Napu, and Doda Valleys of Central Sulawesi’s vast Lore Lindu National Park are perhaps most famous for the ancient monolithic human figures (arca) similar to the mo’ai of Easter Island. A visit to the valleys to see these changed my perspective on Indonesian history. Words & photos by Grace Susetyo

After lunch, we made it to Padang Sepe to see the iconic 4.5-metre Watu Palindo. Slanted like the Tower of Pisa, locals believe grazing cattle centuries ago enjoyed pushing against it. A group of teenage boys were climbing the gigantic arca and taking photos when we arrived.

ancestral god-incarnate from heaven. The arcas sit right by a village junction, and a nearby church was preparing the evening’s New Year’s Eve service. A stone on the ground had an eye on it. “Like most Bada arcas, this site is between 2,000-2,500 years old,” said Sjuman. “This commemorates the ancient village of Tinoi, which has now blended into the surrounding forests.” “Sounds sacred. How come we could just climb this fence and there’s much litter around?” I asked. “It is a sacred and historical place, but at the same time it’s also right here in the village where we carry about our day-today business,” Sjuman explained. “This used to be the war grounds of the Bada and Kulawi tribes. We fought wars just to show neighbouring tribes who was boss around here, until the Dutch came and shared the Gospel of Jesus Christ among us.” “Who are your best-remembered war heroes? Did any of them fight the Dutch for Indonesia’s independence?” I asked. “Nobody fought the Dutch. They came not with soldiers but missionaries, so they taught us how to love our neighbours and brought peace upon Lindu,” he replied. We spent midday walking some vast rice fields. Dodging hidden potholes on the barely-there paths, I wondered what was so special about this place. Sjuman then pointed to a large rock in the middle of the padi field. But it wasn’t just a rock – it had a prominent bug-eyed face sculpted on it. Locals call it Watu Baula, the 2,200-year-old buffalo rock.

took three days. My mother would prepare cooked food in hollow bamboo for us to carry, and at night we slept by the roadside,” Sjuman reminisced of his youth as we rested in a nearby gazebo.

Bada Valley

Bada Valley Country: Indonesia Province: Central Sulawesi Largest city: Poso Population: 209,252 (2010 estimate of Poso regency) Land area: Lore Lindu National Park (2179.912 km2) How to get there Wings Air flies to Poso from Makassar. 4 hours drive from Poso to Tentena, 2 hours drive from Tentena to Bada Valley What to bring Hat, sunglasses, sunscreen lotion, camera, raincoat, trekking shoes, a warm sweater for evenings

“That monolith will be so damaged after the thousandth climber. Why isn’t there anyone in charge here to keep them away from it? Why isn’t your government doing something about it?” asked JK, obviously irritated. Sjuman said something about the Government not having the money or proper manpower. I pondered over JK’s question in silence. I used to think I wanted to promote tourism in Indonesia so that the Government can raise funds and proper manpower to make nice museums, tourism facilities, and souvenir shops that empower locals with economic opportunities. But being in Bada Valley made me realise something more important – people here live among 2,500 years of history, right in their midst. They don’t have to dress up and buy tickets to some fancy museum and spend money on expensive coffee or souvenirs to have this experience – it’s right there in their backyards. And I’m beginning to wonder if “proper tourism” would take this away from the people of Bada. That night, being strangers in town with no one to visit, JK and I had the honour of visiting Sjuman in his family’s home for dinner. There, we watched the humble villages of Bada Valley light up with fireworks at midnight as we welcomed the New Year.

“When I was a teenager in the 1970s, I used to help my father sell fruits in Tentena. There were no cars so we walked and had a horse carry our load. A return journey

Slanted like the Tower of Pisa, locals believe grazing cattle centuries ago enjoyed pushing against it.

Grace is a freelance writer, former TV journalist, and aspiring documentarist with a passion for Indonesian history and culture. Contact her at g.c.susetyo@gmail.com

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issue 149 Indonesia expat

Kenneth Yeung is a Jakarta-based editor

You Say You Want a Revolution? Cybercrime is on the rise in Indonesia. Government critics claim the biggest online scam is an official website promoting President Joko ‘Jokowi’ Widodo’s “mental revolution” slogan. But did the Government really squander $10 million on a useless website? By Kenneth Yeung

In late August, it was widely reported that the Coordinating Minister for Human Development and Culture, Puan Maharani, had spent a staggering Rp.140 billion ($9.97 million) on setting up a failed website. Many people thought the figure must have been a typing error. And it was an error, of sorts. The ministry later clarified that revolusimental.go.id had cost “only” Rp.200 million ($14,250). This clarification was ignored by some sections of the media that had earlier lambasted Puan, whose chief political qualification is being the daughter of former president Megawati Soekarnoputri and the granddaughter of founding president Soekarno. Regardless of the amount spent, the website was a disaster. Launched on August 24, it went offline two days later, purportedly hacked. This was after netizens noticed some of the script code had been carelessly swiped from barackobama.com, a site operated by supporters of the US president. It was also noted that revolusimental.go.id was built on a theme from open-source website platform WordPress and hosted on a shared server. If the website really had been hacked, the ministry could have taken legal action. The Electronic Information and Transactions Law carries a maximum penalty of eight years in jail and/or a fine of Rp.800 million for hacking. The ministry’s secretary, Sugihartatmo, said he would not file a police report but would instead respond positively by improving the site’s security. The site was heavy on tiled visuals and light on written content. There was a photo of Puan and a photo of Soekarno. Visitors could enter their name and email address to receive updates on how the Government is revolutionizing the nation’s mental character. At the launch, Puan claimed the site would provide useful information promoting mental revolution programs in all ministries and state institutions. She said the public could use the site to provide suggestions and feedback. The ministry stopped short of providing explicit examples of how the mental revolution will be implemented. There are many vague "taglines" about developing morality, integrity, a strong work ethic and mutual cooperation. There are general calls for an end to corruption, better public services and business innovations. There’s nothing as explicit as “set a good example by jailing officials who seek bribes or misuse state funds”. 18

Indonesia expat issue 149

There was some sensible comment from Administrative and Bureaucratic Reform Minister Yuddy Chrisnandi. He said the mental revolution should not be viewed as a project under the domain of certain ministries, but instead must be a passion shared by all state agencies to develop clean governance and people of integrity. He said criticism of the bureaucracy is the cornerstone of a mental revolution. Let’s Do It After the website went down, it was replaced by the following message: “Thank you for the suggestions and input for the website revolusimental.go.id. From the outset, in carrying out every activity, we uphold the values of integrity, including in building the website revolusimental.go.id. We will work hard to fix it to make it better. Let's do it together.” More than a week later, the site remains dead and its sad, solitary block of text now reads: “Sorry. Because public enthusiasm is so high, we experienced a server overload. Therefore, we are currently in the process of upgrading the server. Thank you for your support and participation. Peace, Mental Revolution!” Puan seems to have lost her enthusiasm for the site. On August 28, inspecting preparations for a regional yachting rally, she insisted that reporters ask only about the maritime event. When they persisted, she eventually said “there’s my deputy, ask him,” and then entered her car. On August 31,

Regardless of the amount spent, the website was a disaster.

attending a book launch at a South Jakarta hotel, Puan told reporters that questions about “technical problems” should be directed to the ministry’s secretary. Sugihartatmo would not confirm or deny that revolusimental.go.id had swiped its source code from barackobama.com. He insisted the ministry is “forbidden to plagiarise” because the mental revolution’s principle is integrity. He said the website would be aborted and improved if an investigation finds there had been plagiarism. As for the $10 million figure, Sugihartatmo admitted the ministry has a budget of Rp.149 billion for “mental revolution” programs in 2015. How is that money being used? In March, he said about Rp.130 billion would be spent on formulating and promoting programs, while the remainder would be used for their development and evaluation. The manager of revolusimental.go.id, Achmad Gunawan, said the Rp.130 billion budget had not been used entirely for the development of the site but was also for television, newspaper and radio campaigns to promote the mental revolution. One of the site’s main critics is former youth affairs and sport minister Roy Suryo, who

branded the designer as incompetent. He also said the slogan “mental revolution” is false rhetoric and a dream that people should wake up from. While four senior ministers lost their jobs in a cabinet reshuffle last month, Puan is at no risk of being fired, no matter what blunders her ministry makes. She was foisted on Jokowi by his political patron Megawati, chief of the Indonesian Democratic Party of Struggle (PDIP). When PDIP won last year’s legislative election, the party planned to install Puan as speaker of the House of Representatives. Instead, losing presidential candidate Prabowo Subianto formed a majority coalition that changed the rules and appointed Golkar Party treasurer Setya Novanto as House speaker, despite his links to numerous corruption cases. This manoeuvre left Jokowi in a quandary. What to do with Puan? Give her a cabinet post, such as social affairs minister. But she required something more prestigious, despite her lack of experience. So she was placed at the helm of the Coordinating Ministry for Human Development and Culture, overseeing eight other ministries. If Puan truly wants a mental revolution, then perhaps she could set an example by showing that political appointments are based on merit, rather than nepotism. The Government could also develop a protocol for the design, funding and hosting of websites to minimise threats posed by hackers, scammers and embezzlers.

EXPAT LIFESTYLE

MEET THE EXPAT

A Sulawesi Story

Meet Horst Liebner Maritime expert, anthropologist, Malayologist and linguist Horst Liebner shares his deep knowledge of and love for the amazing cultures, language and history of Sulawesi, in which he has immersed himself for so many years. By Karen Davis

What brought you to Indonesia and the island of Sulawesi? Most of what I do has to do with the sea and the people living off it. I was raised in western Germany, quite far from the ocean. My grandfather lived in a north-German harbour town and wanted me to become a ship’s doctor so I could see the world, especially the southern seas. I decided to study Indonesian languages and culture plus social anthropology. When I learned that there were people building wooden ships in South Sulawesi, I applied for a scholarship in 1987 which concluded in building a traditional boat; the onemasted phinisi, without an engine, and sailed it around Sulawesi for a year. I got my M.A. for this in 1993. I next applied for a research grant to look into what one would call the mental concepts behind Sulawesi’s traditions of boat-building and navigation. To reach the many islands for that research, I used a smaller boat, a seagoing outrigger craft called sandeq. I then sailed her for a couple of thousand miles up and down southern Sulawesi, studying traditional navigation, indigenous stories and manuscripts on the history of the local Sea Gypsies; the Sama people. I decided to leave Germany for good, and became a research fellow at an organisation associated with Makassar’s University, teaching and researching. When the Government decided to start a ministry for marine affairs, I became involved providing expertise on what people call traditional fishermen, sailors, shipwrights and ships. In 2004 I was invited to visit the Cirebon wreck, a Malay trading vessel that sunk around 970 with a huge cargo of Chinese ceramics on board. In 2009 I had enough of treasure hunting. A professor at Leeds University offered to write up the Cirebon find for a PhD, and that’s what I did. Then I built a house in Sulawesi. Tell me about the history of the area and its maritime culture. South Sulawesi is a rather late player in the archipelago’s maritime scene. We first hear about Sulawesi sailors and traders in Portuguese records of the early 16th century, and in local historiographies. It began with the Portuguese conquest of Melaka in 1511, and ended with the Dutch conquest of the great city that developed there until the mid-17th century. Makassan and Bugis traders and their Malay associates were the last to stand against the Dutch attempts

that, under favourable conditions, can go up to 25-30 knots, faster than the navy patrol boats used to accompany the fleet. The race activities in 2014 prompted Indonesia’s Government to declare the sandeq a national heritage, the second maritime one after the phinisi.

to monopolise trade in cloves and nutmegs – and with the fall of Makassar many of them fled throughout the archipelago, and even to Southeast Asia, where they slowly rebuilt their trade networks. By the 18th and 19th century, it was mainly the descendants of those emigrants – be they from Mandar, Makassar or the Bugis lands – who became collectively known as ‘Bugis sailors’. Sailing trading boats or fishing is largely the job of the wong cilik, the famous ‘small people’ of Indonesia. Our neighbours all are Makassarese, not Bugis. That was one of the first surprises when researching Sulawesi’s maritime heritage in the late 1980s. When I visited to collect words related to the ship’s rigging and such, I was given Makassarese terms, a language as different from Bugis as French is from Italian. Then there are the famous boat builders of Tana Beru and Ara, where most of the so-called phinisi charter vessels are built – and they speak Konjo, a language related to Makassar, as do the sailors of Bira, who man those tourist ships. Another town famous for its sailors is Pallengu in Jeneponto. And the most courageous of all Sulawesi sailors possibly are the Mandar people who live in the north-western part of the peninsula. Another common misunderstanding surrounds the all-famous phinisi schooners. ‘Phinisi’ actually only denotes the schooner rig, those two masts with seven to eight sails on them. The phinisi rig itself is a rather late development. Despite early reports by English and Dutch captains going back to the early 19th century, the famed shipwrights of Ara in Sulawesi claim they built the first phinisi only in 1906. Today there are no true sailing phinisi left in Indonesia. All of the wooden cargo vessels now completely rely on their engines, and have at best only one short mast left. Even the last true bluewater sailing ships widely used in Sulawesi, the outrigger fishing craft sandeq, by now are mostly replaced by motor boats. What is the Sandeq Race Forum and what inspired its formation? When the sandeq I had built for my research on Sulawesi sailors was launched, we sat looking at her beautiful lines, and I asked the guys what we should do with her. They answered, “A race, from here to

Indonesia’s sailors and shipwrights…succeeded in building leviathans of ships and navigating them over vast stretches of ocean at a time when European shipping was still clinging to shores. Makassar” – and so in 1995 the first Sandeq Race was born. The race became a true marathon regatta, running over more than 300 nautical miles along southern Sulawesi, advertised as ‘the longest, hardest, fastest sailing race for traditional fishermen’. At the time, in 1995, there still were many big seagoing sandeq around, and all boats following the race were true fishing vessels, only modified for racing by a taller mast and a longer boom. In 2000, the first purpose-built racing boat showed up, and by 2003 none of the participants still used sandeq for fishing – they all had motorboats. Participating in the race had become a major moment of pride for the owners of sandeq and their villages, and it kept the sandeq alive. It even triggered their development: the racing sandeq quickly changed from fairly sturdy seagoing working vessels to true racing machines

‘Save the sea, save the nation’ is a slogan of yours. When did we lose our connection with the great waters? It highlights the importance of the sea for an archipelagic country, which only in recent years has become a government agenda. Until the industrial revolution in the western world, maritime technology was one of man’s greatest technical achievements, triggering innovations such as the effective use of naval artillery that allowed western powers to conquer half of the world. Indonesia’s sailors and shipwrights had to tackle the same problems, and succeeded in building leviathans of ships and navigating them over vast stretches of ocean at a time when European shipping was still clinging to shores. The distinctive technical traditions they developed thousands of years ago are the basics of today’s ‘traditional’ shipbuilding. Do you believe we can become a more respectful and nurturing culture? There is this idealistic misunderstanding that only our modern civilisation endangers our natural environment. The ancients were possibly much worse: the hunters and gatherers of 10,000 years ago managed to exterminate various species of animals in the areas they settled, and throughout history most farming societies eventually ran into ecological problems caused by deforestation or overusing water resources. But with so many more people and such advances in technology, our impact on nature has become a problem. Increasing education creates more consciousness about our effects on the environment, and more people are developing technologies that reduce our impact. Thank You, Horst. To get in touch, e-mail khmail@ indosat.net.id

Karen Davis is a NYC artist and writer

issue 149 Indonesia expat

EXPAT OUTREACH SPORTS Antony is a freelance writer based in Jakarta. Please send comments and suggestions to antony@the-spiceislands.com

Indonesia’s Oldest Football Club

Their next game saw them take on Suwon and this time the fans didn’t have so long to wait; legendary striker Kurniawan Dwi Yulianto scoring on the 35th minute. Unfortunately its impact was the same as Suwandi’s; little more than consolation as the Koreans had raced into a five-goal lead in the opening 25 minutes! PSM went on to lose the game 8-1.

Persatuan Sepak Bola Makassar By Antony Sutton

This year Birmingham City celebrates their 140th anniversary as a professional football club. It hasn’t been much of a history with a second-tier playoff success, a couple of League Cups and a third-tier title taking pride of place in their trophy cabinet.

Sharing England’s second city with Aston Villa, Birmingham are still able to attract fans through the turnstiles with an average of 16,000 watching their home games at St. Andrews during the 2014-15 season. To commemorate their 140th year, the club has introduced a one-off badge, and along with it, a range of souvenir merchandise, all designed to encourage supporters to dig deep and hand over their money. Given how many football clubs there are in England, somewhere some club is celebrating something every year. Closer to home, one Indonesian football club is celebrating its centenary this year. Persatuan Sepak Bola Makassar (PSM) from Sulawesi boasts the distinction of being the oldest football club in the country and 2 November sees football enter unchartered territory when it comes to remembering its past. PSM were founded on 2 November 1915 as Macassaarsche Voetbal Bund (MVB) by a gentleman named M L Hartwing, an employee of the Dutch Government who, at the time, ruled the archipelago. The club attracted a smorgasbord of players with Dutch, Chinese and local players and they certainly had plenty of opponents, with the likes of Prosit (founded 1909) made up of colonial Dutch players, and Bintang Priajoe (1910) featuring local players. In 1914 the Chinese community formed their own club, Sportvereeniging Excelsior, which played at Lapangan Karebosi. Little is known of MVB’s early days, even though two names do live on – Sagi and Sangkala. On 2 July 1928, a touring Australian team preparing for the 1928 Olympics in Amsterdam stopped off in Makassar and earned themselves a moral-boosting 2-1 victory in unfamiliar territory. The Second World War saw Japan invade the Dutch Indies but there was still football, and amid the carnage a humble becak rider from Barru in South Sulawesi made the first tentative steps towards a career that led one pundit to describe him as the original ‘Special One’. 20

Indonesia expat issue 149

Jubilo Iwata coasted to a 3-0 win in the final game, leaving PSM bottom of the group, winless and pointless; a sourtasting lesson but a harsh reminder of the gap between the best Indonesian football and the rest of Asia. How sad the lessons are still yet to be learned.

Rusli Ramang grew up playing sepak takraw, a mix between volleyball and football known for its graceful and athletic movement getting a rattan ball over a net. He moved to Makassar after he married and soon came to the attention of PSM after scoring seven goals in one game for his then club Persis All Sulawesi. In 1952 he was called up by the national team on a tour around Asia, taking on the Philippines, Hong Kong and Thailand, where he netted an impressive 19 goals. The 1950s were a glorious time to be a PSM fan. With Ramang rattling in the goals for fun, they won the Perserikatan (the nearest thing Indonesia had for a national league in the years before and after independence) in 1957 and 1959 before adding back-to-back titles in 1965 and 1966 – and a final one in 1992.

They were back in 2004 and 2005, but in a much larger competition they continued to struggle and failed to get out of the group stages on both occasions, winning just three games out of 12 over the two years. And that has been pretty much it. Success has evaded PSM as the likes of Persipura and Sriwijaya Palembang have dominated the domestic scene and the Eastern Roosters have failed to keep up. In 2011, they backed the wrong horse when they opted to withdraw from the Indonesia Super League and join the breakaway Liga Premier Indonesia when football split into two opposing camps.

the 1950s were a glorious time to be a psm fan

When professional football was introduced in 1994, PSM had one more sniff of success when they were crowned champions in 1999/2000; their last piece of silverware. With the title in their pocket, PSM set about conquering Asia in the Asian Club Championship, later known as the AFC Asian Champions League. They started their campaign with a flourish, defeating Vietnamese side Song Lam Nghe An 4-1 on aggregate in the first round to earn a tie against the Royal Thai Airforce. The goals kept flowing as PSM battered the Thais home and away, winning 6-1 and 5-0 respectively. The goal glut ensured PSM’s place in the quarter finals, which they were chosen to host. Joining them were Japan’s Jubilo Iwata, South Korea’s Suwon Samsung Bluewings and Shandong Luneng Taishan. The goals continued to flow, but unfortunately for the home fans, known as the Macz Man, they were in the wrong goal. They lost their opening game 3-1 against Shandong with the fans waiting until the 90th minute before Suwandi Siswoyo gave them something to cheer about.

With the game reunified in 2014, PSM found themselves once more back in the ISL, forced to play their home games in Surabaya as the authorities deemed their Andi Mattalatta Stadium unworthy according to guidelines. Home games were thus played in a cavernous 60,000-seater bowl on the outskirts of Indonesia’s second city in front of crowds that rarely topped four figures. The 2015 season saw them return home with a good start defeating Persiba Balikpapan 4-0 and drawing 3-3 against widely-fancied Sriwijaya before the season was stopped due to infighting between the Government and the football association, where the Government refused to recognise the PSSI. Compromise may be in the air and the ISL are hoping to start a new league in October. Until then, Makassar is hosting Gresik United, Persipasi Bekasia Raya and Pusamania Borneo in the President Cup. The clock, however, is ticking towards their 100th anniversary and it doesn’t look like much, if indeed anything, is being planned to celebrate the occasion. When Indonesian football clubs are forever whining about the lack of cash they have, it does seem a bit remiss that nothing is being done to take advantage of this unique event. Surely having the oldest football club in the region is something to be proud of?

issue 149 Indonesia expat

EXPAT OUTREACH WORTHY CAUSES

Notebooks Shine a Light Revealing the End of the Tunnel By Angela Richardson

The Buku Kami Project empowers former sex workers in East Jakarta who have been forced into the illegal trade for many years by providing them employment making recycled notebooks. This innovative project founded and run by University students has positive social and environmental impacts.

ccording to UNICEF, over 100,000 children and women in Indonesia are trafficked each year. Child prostitution is on the rise, and one third of sex workers are under 18 years of age. Causes for human trafficking include poverty, lack of employment opportunities, and unequal gender roles to name a few. The cultural acceptance of marrying young often leads to failed marriages followed by forced prostitution for girls. East Jakarta is considered one of the poorest parts of Jakarta and is home to a red light district, with prostitution based around a park near the Jatinegara station. According to local residents, exchanges take place in a tent beside the railway line. For women living below the poverty line and tricked into a life of prostitution, there is no light at the end of the tunnel. One

such woman, who cannot be named, was promised a job as a waitress 30 years ago and ended up being sold into the sex trade. Today she travels to Jatinegara every time there is a production day at the Buku Kami Project (‘Our Book’). She says that she is now able to see the light at the end of the tunnel due to the work that she does there, and will travel the length it takes to make a change in her life. Buku Kami Project is a social enterprise offering creative cross-disciplinary solutions to sex workers in Jakarta. Founded through the Seeds for the Future grant from the Young Southeast Asia Leadership Initiative (YSEALI) – an initiative founded by US President Barack Obama – the Buku Kami Project offers skills-based training for former sex workers and victims of human trafficking in Indonesia. I meet External Vice President, Garreth Chan, to find out how they are empowering women.

“one such woman, who cannot be named, was promised a job as a waitress 30 years ago and ended up being sold into the sex trade.”

Women involved in the programme design and produce high quality notebooks and agendas made of 100 percent recycled paper, which are sold online. Buku Kami Project purchases their paper from an internal supplier and receives the paper pre-cut. “What the women basically do is cut the covers out, piece the covers together, bind, align, hole and produce the notebooks,” explains Chan, who hails from Hong Kong. The notebooks have been on the market as of just over one month ago. “We partner with brands and organisations that do sustainability work based in US, Canada, Copenhagen, Sweden and India,” Chan continues. “We are hoping to have our own retail shop, but because we’re still a very new project, this will take us time to achieve.” The initiative was founded and is run by 14 University students based in Indonesia and the United Arab Emirates. Although young, the team members have experience working with non-governmental organizations, social enterprises, embassies and international organizations in Hong Kong, France, Belgium, Tanzania, Cambodia, Thailand, the United States and the United Arab Emirates. “Indonesia, just like any other Southeast Asian country, suffers from sex tourism. Its child sex tourism industry is slightly smaller than neighbouring countries such as Cambodia or Thailand, but it’s there. A lot of the recurring stories that we hear from the women we work with is that 20-30 years ago, they were promised a job and ended up being threatened to work in the sex industry.” The women working with Buku Kami Project are actively trying to escape the sex industry, looking for alternative work, and coming to training and production days. Buku Kami Project partners with a local organisation

Dua Tangan Cukup

with a shelter called Bandungwangi, where the production of the notebooks takes place. Currently 20 women are trained and Buku Kami Project hopes to expand in the very near future. The team are receiving requests from women who would like to join the training programme, which is very encouraging news. “Right now we are building a fund that goes back to empowering the women,” says Chan. “This will offer micro-finance, micro-business, leadership, human resource management, finance training for the women, and hopefully they will want to either receive vocational training from us as well so they can be placed into a job with one of our partners, or start their own business if they wish.” The Buku Kami Project team are trying to spread the message that it’s not so much about the recycled notebooks – although they are great – as it is about what the notebooks are investing in: the future welfare of former sex workers in Jakarta. Currently the payment model for the working women is per notebook, although Chan explains that they would like to change this model in the future, with enough support. “We want the women who work with us to have a regular salary and that this becomes a regular financial alternative for them.”

Buku Kami Project’s blank recycled paper notebooks retail at Rp.75,000-Rp.95,000 and can be purchased online. Please visit www.bukukamiproject.org or follow them on Instagram: buku.kami.project

Actions From Across The Archipelago

Clean Up Jakarta Day Calls on Members of the Public to Crowdfund for Gloves

Trash is a global problem and in Indonesia, the sight of litter-strewn streets, cities and beaches is all too familiar. In the capital of Jakarta, we produce a staggering 6,700 tonnes of trash a day, a large proportion of which ends up on the streets and in the rivers, which eventually leads to the oceans and into the food cycle. Whichever way you look at it, trash is a problem that belongs to the people who create it; i.e. everyone. To try and make people aware of how big the problem of littering and waste is here in Jakarta, Clean Up Jakarta Day was started in 2013 to gather together communities, schools and companies, all as volunteers through the Indonesian tradition of gotong royong. From the founding team’s own experiences running smaller clean-ups around Indonesia, making

people pick up trash and separate recyclables from non-recyclables will have a profound effect on the public’s understanding of the problem, as well as educate them on the solutions to these problems: separate your trash at home, reduce, reuse and recycle. This year, Clean Up Jakarta Day will be held on Sunday, Octover 18th, where an anticipated 15,000 volunteers will be picking up rubbish at many locations throughout Jakarta with one united voice. Recyclable and non-recyclable waste will be collected by Dinas Kebersihan DKI Jakarta, the city’s sanitation department, and the recyclable waste will be distributed to waste banks, where they will be further sorted, weighed and sold – funds going back into supporting the waste banks. The nonrecyclable waste collected on Clean Up Jakarta

Day will be taken to the nearest landfill. After the early morning’s cleaning up activities, there will be a Post Event at GBK Stadium for volunteers to share experiences, where influential figures will engage in a Q&A session to discuss how we can continue to make a lasting change. Although Clean Up Jakarta Day has the support of some very generous sponsors (Coca Cola Amatil, Kaercher, The Body Shop Indonesia and PT Adaro Energy) an additional 5,000 gloves still needs to be purchased to meet the high number of volunteers this year. Through local crowdfunding platform Kitabisa.com, Clean Up Jakarta Day hopes to be able to purchase the additional gloves needed, so that everyone will have a pair to help clean up Jakarta!

Every little counts. Please visit www.kitabisa.com/cleanupjktday to help make it possible. To volunteer on October 18 register at www.cleanupjakartaday.org 22

Indonesia expat issue 149

ANNOUNCEMENTS

New Jakarta One Stop Service Agency Will Help Manage Licensing and Permit Applications

Anantara Seminyak Hosts Fun Day Out with Solemen Indonesia for Disadvantaged Children through the Win-Win programme, which allows guests the chance to help children in need by giving Rp.15,000 donation per night’s stay, matching the guests’ donations to be given to Solemen Indonesia. In addition, the resort’s gift shop sells Solemen Indonesia merchandise with all profits going to the charitable organisation.

By Santa Fe Relocation Services The Provincial Governor of the Special Rules Jakarta, Capital Number 57 of 2014 issued on April 25th, 2014 states that Jakarta Central City Hall has issued a One Stop Service Agency (PTSP). This One Stop Service Agency (PTSP) will assist all the way to the sub district level in Jakarta and help manage licensing and permit applications including the renewal process of Expatriate Placement Plan (RPTKA) and Working Permit (IMTA).

The previous estimated completion date for Expatriate Placement Plan (RPTKA) was 15 business days and Working Permit (IMTA) was also 15 business days. Now each of the document can be completed within two to three business days.

Companies who would like to renew their licenses would not have to go to Ministry of Manpower anymore; instead they can do this via the PTSP online registration.

However, the PTSP is implementing a daily quota of up to 25 applications per day and each company is now required to apply for the queue number before proceeding with submission of the renewal applications. Based on our previous experience with the PTSP, we are foreseeing a likelihood of three to four weeks of wait time.

Effective 1 September, 2015, the said online registration will impact the time frame of license completion for the better.

Please note that these changes will only affect companies that are operating in the Jakarta area.

Indonesia Boasts Highest Foreign Investment in ASEAN

INDONESIA Investment Coordinating Board (BKPM) chief Franky Sibarani recently told Indonesian media that Indonesia has gained 31 percent or the highest in total foreign investment in ASEAN in the first semester of 2015. Sibarani said investment flow to Indonesia in the first semester of 2015 amounted to US$13.66 billion. “[The achievement] describes that even when the global economy is slowing down, Indonesia remains the main investment destination in ASEAN,” he said as quoted by tempo.co.

BALI Anantara Seminyak Resort & Spa, Bali proudly organised a fun day together with Solemen Indonesia, a non-profit organisation that helps the disadvantaged in Bali. The special charitable day, held on 14 August 2015, was part of the luxury resort’s sustainability programme to improve the wellbeing of the local community. During the event, Mr. Clinton Clovell, General Manager of Anantara Seminyak Resort & Spa, presented a donation of Rp.25,025,036 to Solemen Indonesia. Anantara Seminyak Resort & Spa is proud to support Solemen Indonesia

The fun day by the beach started as 15 disabled children and their parents arrived at the resort to enjoy creative activities such as sand carving and temporary tattoos. Anantara associates showed their full support by bringing gifts of Minion dolls for the children and the resort’s culinary team created lunch for everyone. The celebration ended with the children, Anantara management team and Soleman Indonesia Ambassador and Indonesia celebrity, Tamara Bleszynskie, releasing colourful balloons as a symbol of hope. “Solemen Indonesia has been involved with Anantara Seminyak Resort & Spa’s sustainability programme since it started in 2013. Demonstrating our commitment to improving the lives of children in need, it was an honour to organise this fun day out by the beach and welcome all of the volunteers and children, whom we proudly consider a part of our big family”, stated Mr. Clinton Clovell.

Indonesian Tourist Visa Exemption for 47 more countries, including Australia

©Coconuts Jakarta

The foreign investment figure was higher than those of Vietnam at $7.53 billion (17 percent) and Malaysia at $7.01 billion (16 percent). Sibarani continued by saying the fall of the Rupiah to US dollar, as well as the slowing of the Indonesian economy, did not affect foreign investment in the country. He added that globally investment flow has decreased, down to $311 billion in the first semester of 2015, from $369.5 billion registered in the same period of last year.

INDONESIA Australia is one of 47 countries being added to Indonesia’s visa-exempt list in October, according to Maritime Coordinating Minister Rizal Ramli. "There are a total of 92 countries given visa-free entry," Ramli recently told the press. Other countries added to the list include India, Taiwan, Vatican City and San Marino. Rizal said the addition of more countries to the visa-free list should further boost the number of foreign tourists coming to

Indonesia. He added that the Indonesian Government aims to attract 20 million tourists over the next five years in order to boost the economy and create new jobs. Rizal said the new visa exemptions would be effective starting October. He said that the Directorate General of Immigration would create special immigration counters at airports and ports specifically for visa-free visitors in order to streamline the process.

Jakarta Business Networkers Launch Special Networking Event in Jakarta JAKARTA On 2 September, the weekly business networking event Jakarta Business Networkers held the first of its series of Special Networking Morning events at the Kemang Icon in South Jakarta. Approximately 50 business men and women attended this referrals-based networking morning.

Keynote speaker Guillaume de Gantes, Partner at McKinsey & Co. Indonesia, spoke about the future of Indonesia. “Despite some turbulence, we believe by 2030, Indonesia could have the world’s 7th-largest economy, overtaking Germany and the United Kingdom, de Gantes said.

The Jakarta Business Networkers holds weekly breakfast networking events in South Jakarta and in the CBD, and businesses can gain referrals and expand their networks by becoming a member. Their next special networking event will be held in December.

issue 149 Indonesia expat

A Person, Another Person and a Third Person Walk into a Bar

* Answers in the next edition!

LIGHT ENTERTAINMENT

CROSSWORD

By Eamonn Sadler

olitical correctness has become part of everyone’s lives over the last couple of decades. Everyone now needs to be very careful not to offend anyone by anything they say or do, and this is becoming a real issue for people making a living in the very subjective comedy industry. Is everything fair game for a joke? Is it ever too soon to make light of a serious event? Is it therapeutic to laugh at the things that traumatise people the most? The debate is fierce among comedians and reached fever pitch during the Edinburgh Comedy Festival which finished on 31 August. For example, one comedian received a scathing review for a show that the reviewer found to be offensive in just about every way. The comedian proudly shared the review on Facebook, having received exactly the reaction he wanted from the press. Immediately comedians from all over the world jumped in expressing very strong and very differing opinions. About half were in support of the comedian, agreeing that making a joke about something serious doesn’t trivialise or make fun of it, it doesn’t mean that comedian supports or condones it, it just means that the comedian has found something funny in something serious and can make people laugh with it. Some pointed to jokes about the Holocaust and 9/11 and said that they believe comedians can joke about these things without suggesting they were not serious or traumatic for the people who were affected by them. These are of course historical events and, as we all know, time is a great healer. I don’t think many people would object to a joke about the sinking of the Titanic, for example. My good friend Jon Atherton, a fine Australian comedian who lives in Malaysia, hushed a crowd here in Jakarta just after 9/11 by saying with tears in his eyes, “I think it’s wrong to make jokes about what happened on 9/11. A lot of people died that day and I lost a good friend. I remember I called him the night before because I had an uneasy feeling. I said ‘Mohammed, don’t fly that plane.’” But racism and sexism and other forms of prejudice and bigotry are not the same. Our differences will never fade into the

past. Can we make jokes about racism and sexism without being prejudiced or bigoted? And are some forms of prejudice OK while others are not? On Facebook, in the wake of the story about the dentist who shot the famous lion, someone did a spoof and posted a picture of a smiling hunter with a rifle sitting on the back of a ginger guy he had supposedly just shot and pulling his head up by the hair to show his face. The accompanying text said this “animal” had spent 10 dollars just to kill this innocent and endangered species. Very funny everyone agreed; but what would the reaction have been if the spoofers had used a gay guy or a black woman instead of a ginger guy? Was the joke an example of “gingerism”? Was it offensive or just funny? If it was funny, is that because most ginger people laugh along with everyone else?

Can we make jokes about racism and sexism without being prejudiced or bigoted?

Across 1. "Slice" cut from centre of circle (6) 4. Chewy sweet (6) 9. Featherbrain (7) 10. Evade - escape (5) 11. Ape (abbr) (5) 12. Psychological speech problem (7) 13. Matthew, of tax collectors; Luke, of physicians, etc (6,5) 18. Straddling (horse) (7) 20. Involuntary contraction of muscles (5) 22. Yellow or red pigment (5) 23. Be worthy of (7) 24. Body of doctrine - method of procedure (6) 25. It could follow desert, coral, thousand or traffic (6)

ANSWERS OF ISSUE 148

ACROSS — 1. Outside chance 8. Stow 9. Pawnshop 10. Impresario 12. Utmost 14. Bodkin 15. Little John

19. Conquest 20. Moon 21. Play upon words DOWN — 2. Ultimate 3. Sewer 4. Deposit 5. Cower 7. Cook 11. Withhold 13. Obloquy 14. Balaton 16. Twerp 18. Boil

If black people were to laugh at racist jokes, would it stop the jokes being racist? Are black people offended by racist jokes, or is it other people getting offended on their behalf? What about bald jokes and old people jokes? Are they OK because baldness and age are not races, religions, genders or sexual preferences? If gingerism, baldism and oldism are OK, why aren’t the other “isms”? I am very sure many ginger people, bald people and old people have been deeply upset for centuries by jokes at their expense, but nobody seems to care. The fact is most jokes are at someone’s expense. Comedians these days usually make them at their own expense or at the expense of some imaginary character. Black English comedian Dane Baptiste said, “My skin is the biggest organ of my body, despite what stereotypes would lead you to believe.” If someone else told that joke about Dane, would it be racist? And finally, if a ginger goes bald at age 70, is he still ginger and if yes, should we make fun of him for being ginger, bald or old?

WANT FREE TICKETS TO THE COMEDY CLUB? Do not pop in here if you are some kind of rodent. Spotted by Franzi, the Dalams Send your funny pictures to: letters@indonesiaexpat.biz

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Eamonn has lived and worked in Indonesia for over 20 years but doesn’t understand the country at all and now realises that he never will. He is an entrepreneur, businessman and writer, lead singer with expat band Xhibit A and the owner and operator of The Jakarta Comedy Club and The Bali Comedy Club.

DOWN 1. Seize - fragment of verse (6) 2. Royal canine (5) 3. Scoring more bogeys than birdies? (4,3) 5. Nebraska city (5) 6. Underwater swimmer (7) 7. Tolerate (6) 8. Miscellaneous pieces (4,3,4) 14. They are regularly dropped in the East End (7) 15. Lends a hand (7) 16. Spoken regional dialect (6) 17. Threaten - be about to happen (6) 19. Goddess of peace (5) 21. Parts of the heart or of Roman houses (5)

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HUMOROUS OBSERVATIONS

Sulawesi – Don’t Wait A dry look at what’s left on Sulawesi By Simon Still

fter 12 years working in Makassar and Manado, I came to view Sulawesi as home. The port city of Makassar was my first job abroad after University and despite leaving after the first year; it lured me back repeatedly, until I left again.

If anyone has the notion to visit this peculiar island, why should they make haste? Well, let’s start at its hub, Makassar. Factoids regarding this city are redundant. The census never changes and the temperature is always pounding except at Christmas when the streets try to impersonate Venice. For example, when I arrived, Makassar was a 2 millionstrong, low-rise hive of cheeky corruption and oozing an indescribable charm from all its ramshackle pores and sphincters covering some 70sq miles. Years on, it’s still a 2 million-strong eye-sore, but of myriad extraneous high-rise hotels and newfangled restaurants adopting the potted roads as parking areas. It also still covers 70sq miles – it’s just that other towns have grown to meet it. If it had open-top bus tours, they would rap: and on the left look out for another opening Alfa Mart and big hotel. They stand where someone of note used to live in an historical building. The seafront has fared no better. Once a strip of bars and warung beholding golden sunsets, now my local looks out over a narrow slit of sea between hotels. Indeed, if coming to Makassar, the best I can offer is to laugh at everyone stuck in traffic for a day and then go to see the highlights before the same happens to you. Highlights in order of near to far: 1. Bantimurung – 45mins from Makassar – where Alfred Russell Wallace once saw butterflies at a waterfall This is a stunning limestone cask area, and all the butterflies Alfred saw are still there – in display cases. There are virtually no other butterflies, however. In typical fashion, local authorities concreted over the heritage site. But, on the plus, it’s very wheelchair-friendly. There’s also rock art from long ago, which might also be graffiti. And guides will take you through caves if you’re interested in paying Rp.60,000 to have lewd rock formations pointed out. Golden rule: never go on a weekend or public holiday unless you relish throngs.

2. Bulukumba and Bira – 5hrs from Makassar – where the Bugis construct their hulls 10 years ago, this was where you came to escape the insanity of humanity, snorkel off white-sand beaches and see turtles. Luckily, you can still see turtles because they’ve all been put in a lagoon on Liukang Island (a 20-minute boat ride away) to be molested by local tourists inflicting deadly skin conditions and stress. On the plus the food is excellent, but the prime restaurant for sunsets has stopped selling beer. And, like Makassar, what was once a sleepy backwater is now heaving with accommodation, so same rule applies about weekends and holidays. It’s still a draw for divers and, more recently, bananaboatists who’ve caused fatalities and left nothing for honest snorkelers to see until the drop-off. I really hate banana boats...and jet boats.

“...exhibitions of culture you can expect to find run along the lines of mystic mind over matter, such as lifting extremely heavy rocks with twine around scrotum.” 3. The Kajang – 2hrs north of Bira – A sight of cultural interest where the Kajang folk blended their animist ways with Islam I never made it there, but friends report special exhibitions of culture for outsiders who ask permission. By all accounts, it’s a stunning area and exhibitions of culture you can expect to find run along the lines of mystic mind-overmatter, such as lifting extremely heavy rocks with twine around scrotum. If this list was in order of wow-factor, that would take top spot. 4. Sengkang and Lake Tempe – 5hrs north of Makassar This is the kind of place you go because it’s in Lonely Planet and, where once you felt you just had to tick it off to make yourself more interesting at dinner parties, now you can

do the same on Facebook. It has a floating village. I went there. It floats. Curiously the houses drift, so feuds with neighbours are rare. Other than that, there are no hotels or restaurants of note and the floating villagers do have cell phones which dampens the feeling of having discovered something timeless. 5. Toraja – 10 gruelling hours from Makassar but worth it Stunning limestone mountains and padi gone mad, this is the setting for the world-renowned funeral ritual where hundreds of buffalo end up regretting having no RSPCA in Indonesia (UK: Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals). It’s a blood- and viscera-fest unsuitable for vegans. I couldn’t watch...and what they did to the pigs! But even here time has taken its toll and the main town of Rantepao is a localised traffic jam and rubbish tip surrounded by empty, upper-end hotels. I stayed in one for my honeymoon and fully expected Jack Nicholson to be in the next room. Also, against prediction, the lavish funeral sacrifices have not bankrupted the region, quite the contrary. Where once stood quaint villages, there now sit tacky concrete houses with SUVs parked under big satellite dishes. The traditional look and feel is disappearing, so get there soon. But avoid holiday periods! 6. Manado – far north A small seaside city noted for cannibalising its offshore reefs to make lime for the grotesque strip malls. The surrounding area is an awe-inspiring patchwork of active volcanoes and jungle, most of which is inaccessible. The real draw here is diving, with Bunaken Island the popular base. It’s a featureless flat besieged by mangrove and litter and possibly the most poorly-managed marine park in the world due to recent offshore mining. And there’s more. Much, much more. Sulawesi’s national parks are stunning and if it’s an adventure you want, it’s still well off the beaten track. But if you want to see the hotspots, get there quick. Such charm as was and could yet be is not being developed, but sold off.

Simon J. Still is based in Makassar. Visit his websites: Indonesiatruly-easier.webnode.com and cptsjkirk.wordpress.com

Gunung manado tua, north sulawesi by angela r. issue 149 Indonesia expat

If you want your event to be posted here, please contact +62 (0) 21 719 5908 or e-mail: events@indonesiaexpat.biz

EVENTS

JAKARTA

after sunrise with a swim in the tranquil waters of Jimbaran Bay, followed by a bike sprint to Nusa Dua and finishing with a road race. Participants can now register online through the official race website. www.balitriathlon.com

Arts & Culture

Spesimen Sejarah Alam 16 August – 15 September 2015 This exhibition showcases art pieces relating to the sojourns of Alfred Russell Wallace (18231913). Presenting 24 artworks from local and international a r tist s, the ex hibition is in Salihara Community. Featured international artists include Fred Langford Edwards, Lucy Davis, Geraldie Juarez, Flora Lichtman & Sharon Shattuck, Shannon Lee Castleman, Ed Scholes & Tim Laman and Robert Zhao Renhui (Institute of Critical Zoologists). www.Salihara.org

2015, held at the grandkemang Hotel Jakarta. Open daily from 10am-8pm, this contemporary art exhibition is held annually to explore the richness of Indonesia’s local wisdom in a contemporary way. The exhibition lasts six weeks with various programmes mainly related with design and art. ICAD always introduces inspirational people with their brilliant and inspirational works to be shared and to be experienced by the public. More info: www. arturaicad.com Music

ONE Championship: Odyssey of Champions

Arts & Culture

27 September 2015 Asia’s hottest Mixed Martial Arts (MMA) event brings a dynamic roster of fighters from all across Asia at Jakarta’s Istora Senayan. Main card will be Mongolia’s Narantungalag Jadambaa, a national kickboxing champion versus Russia’s undefeated mixed martial artist, Marat “Cobra” G a f u r o v. O t he r h ig h l ig ht s includes three-time Brazilian Jiu Jitsu champion, Herbert “The Blaze” Burns who meets the hardhitting Timofey Nastyukhin, and Pakistan’s Bashir Ahmad who takes on Australian Martin Nguyen. Buy your tickets at www. kiostix.com or all 7-Eleven outlets. www.onefc.com

course dinner, free-flow beer and wine, and a charity auction! This is Red Nose Foundation’s biggest event of the year, where all their donors and supporters have the chance to join together for a good laugh, good food and lots of fun! Tickets are Rp.1,350,000/guest or you can reserve a table for 8 guests at Rp.10,000,000. For tickets and more info, please contact info@ rednosefoundation.org

Networking

BALI

Bali Bonn Dance Camp

Sports

Bon Jovi Live

Selamat Datang - Indonesian Heritage Society Event 17 September 2015 The Indonesian Heritage Society w ill be earnestly kicking off its new, exciting season at our ‘Selamat Datang’ gathering at Erasmushuis, 9:30am-12:00pm. All are welcome to come along and learn more about our interesting fun activities and events such as Explorer Tours around Jakarta, Study Groups, Film Screenings, Lecture Series, and Eye-Opening Heritage Tours throughout the archipelago. Great opportunity to join or renew membership, meet new and old friends, and find out what IHS is all about. Indonesian Contemporary Art & Design 2015 28 October- 30 November 2015 Artura Insanindo & grandkemang Hotel Jakarta presents Indonesian Contemporar y Art & Design

Indonesia expat issue 149

11 September 2015 This will be the second time Bon Jovi has performed in Indonesia, this time held at Gelora Bung Karno Stadium. Bon Jovi has released 12 studio albums, plus two compilations and two live albums, having sold more than 100 million records worldwide. Live Nation Indonesia expect over 40,000 fans of all ages to attend. Get your tickets at www. rajakarcis.com Sports

ANZA ‘Groovy Ball’ 11 September 2015 The annual September ANZA Ball is back! This year, the theme is ‘Groovy Ball’! Time to form a table with a group of friends or join a table and make new ones at this must-attend themed event. People, get your groove on and get ready! Purchase your tickets from ANZA House at Rp.1,600,000. Email anza2015@gmail.com for enquiries or call 021-71793042

Mandiri Jakarta Marathon

Charity

25 October 2015 The Mandiri Jakarta Marathon will start and finish at Jakarta’s Monas. 50 countries took part in the marathon last year, 1,200 out of 14,120 participants were f r om o t he r c ou nt r ie s . T he international event consists of three categories: full marathon (42,195km), half marathon (21, 10 and 5 km) and children’s sprint. www.thejakartamarathon.com

Red Nose Festival of Laughs and Charity Auction 12 September 2015 At the Raff les Hotel, Jakarta, the Red Nose Foundation will host the Festival of Laughs and Charity Auction. The event is a fall comedy gala featuring a full line up of local and international comedians, musicians, the Red Nose performance troupe, a four

Music

Bali Illustration Workshop 11–22 November 2015 For the first time in Indonesia, Kekai Kotaki, Danny Luv isi and Dave Rapoza will present an international illustration w ork s hop i n B a l i . A g r e a t opportunity for artists to deeply immerse in the spirit and practical k n o w le d g e o f i l lu s t r a t ion . Beginner illustrators or working profe ssiona ls w i l l have t he opportunity of being mentored by these leading artists. The workshop will improve skills, build connections, which will enable the illustrators to take deeper steps into the industry. There will be two batches of workshops with 20 seats each. Send your application to application@ illustrationworkshopbali. c o m b e f o r e 3 1 st o f Ju l y. baliillustrationworkshop.com

31 August – 6 September 2015 World-renowned jazz guitarist John McLaughlin, supported by his long-time band The 4th Dimension, w ill hea d line a much-anticipated show to be held at the Agung Rai Museum of A r t (A R M A) i n Ubud. Opening for McLaughlin will be the influential Indonesian jazz guitarist, Dewa Budjana. Don’t miss the opportunity to witness Rolling Stone’s ‘One of the top 50 guitarists of all time’ in magical Ubud! Tickets for sale online at http://bit.ly/duajigurujitickets or purchase at Agung Rai Museum of Art.

BORNEO Photography

Festivals

Bali & Borneo Photography Adventure

Bali International Triathlon 25 October 2015 Nu s a D u a w i l l b e home of t he eig ht h ‘ Tr i at h lon w it h a Soul’, a race that has won numerous awards, including Best Destination Triathlon. The event comprises a full Olympic triathlon, a half-triathlon and a 5-kilometre fun run. It is expected to draw over 1,000 athletes from some 30 countries, including more than 500 Indonesian triathletes. The ra ce w ill beg in shor tly

Ubud Writers and Readers Festival 28 October- 1 November 2015 A Pulitzer Prize-w inner, an OBE, a 1m+ YouTube star, an O sc a r s c ont ender, a Nor t h Korea defector, a rebel, a yogi, an Italian blockbuster and a Reverand will all be descending on the Ubud Writers & Readers Festival, with many more of the world’s best writers, thinkers and artists. Purchase your 4-day pass and gain access to 85+ main programme sessions. More info at www.ubudwritersfestival.com

20–27 November 2015 Join experienced adventurous professional travel photographer Mark Rayner and Masterclass photographer David Metcalf on a photographic adventure of a lifetime. You will have the opportunity to photograph a variety of wildlife in the Borneo, including a visit to a private island to see the orangutans by special arrangement. There will also be a three-day houseboat trip and cruise up the river visiting Dayak villages. Enjoy a special performance of Dayak music a nd da nc e a nd phot og raph the stunning sunsets in the wetlands as the native hornbills s w e e p a c r o s s t h e s k y. Fo r more info, please visit w w w. davidmetcalfphotography.com

INDONESIA EXPAT DIRECTORY

INTERNATIONAL, DOMESTIC, LOCAL, OFFICE MOVING, STORAGE Call Francois 085 8838 98678 E-mail: francois@safeway.co.id or Firdaus: 0812 945 6005 E-mail: firdaus@safewayrelo.com Website: www.safewayrelo.com “RELOCATION MADE EASY’’

INDONESIA EXPAT DIRECTORY

Santa Fe provides moving services — International, domestic, local & office, document storage & management services, real estate, property management & maintenance, orientations, visa & immigration and home contents insurance. Call us Jakarta: +62 21 2961 2990 Balikpapan:+62 542 713 4334 Bali: +62 811 889 2445 Surabaya: +62 812 304 4775 or E-mail: indonesia@santaferelo.com and visit our website www.santaferelo.com for more information

INDONESIA EXPAT DIRECTORY

We Deliver Stroopwafels in Indonesia to your home or office 1 pack/ quantity of 8 pieces regular plain (9cm) for Rp. 60.000 1 pack/ quantity of 8 pieces regular choco (9cm) for Rp. 65.000 Call: 021 766 4465/ 081 114 90400 or e-mail: info@altjebakery.com

INDONESIA EXPAT DIRECTORY

Executive Search Recruitment Services Translations & Interpreting HR Consulting Payroll & Accounting Service For more information: www.jac-recruitment.co.id indoexpat@jac-recruitment.co.id Phone: 021-315-9504 / 9506 Mobile: 081-672-8653

Relax. We carry the load. #1 CUSTOMER CHOICE ASIA PACIFIC REGION

Jakarta: (021) 780 7851 Surabaya: (031) 749 8377 E-mail: info@alliedpickfords.co.id Web: www.alliedpickfords.co.id

INDONESIA EXPAT DIRECTORY

TO BOOK SPACE ON THIS DIRECTORY PAGE CALL: 021 719 5908

issue 149 Indonesia expat

Jakarta

HAVE SOMETHING TO SELL? Looking for something to buy? Looking for staff? Selling property? Or need a place to live? Why not place your classified ad with Indonesia Expat! Your classified will be placed once for 2 weeks online and once in our printed version which has a circulation of 16,500 copies bi-weekly. Next deadline: 15 September

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Looking for work

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I am Gunawan experienced driver for expats. I live in South Jakarta. I am trustworthy person, punctual, hard worker and of course friendly a s I have sp ent m a ny ye a r s working in hospitality business. I have worked for expat family for few years and they were all happy and satisfied when they left Jakarta. I speak few languages English of course, Italy, Spanish and France. If you need me just call 081806841154 or mail to gunawanhadi64@yahoo.co.id

Certified Clinical Hy pnotherapist. English & B a h a s a S p e a k i ng . H ig h l y conf identia l. Appointment based. 081286739918

Chauffeured driven by english speaking driver and have local knowledge, familiar w ith the best routes, automatic vehicles, defensive driving skill. Works w i t h h o n e s t y, r e s p o n s i b l e , polite, and good appearance too. Available soon. Please contact: 085714221679 /085945021377 or email at: budi1873@gmail.com My name is Deni Nugraha, I’m looking for a job as a driver, I have experience working for Taxi company. I know very well the street in Jakarta, I am available for an interview at any time. My phone number 0856 9736 2924 Jobs Available Indonesia Expat is hiring a Graphic Designer (local) to join the team! The ideal candidate could be a fresh grad majoring in design, with working experience in magazine layout, or other design. You w ill be working w ith the senior designer to create layouts for fortnightly deadlines, as well as creating artwork for Clean Up Jakarta Day and occasionally other creatives when needed. You will be an expert in Adobe InDesign and Photoshop, with basic knowledge of Wordpress. You will also be a team player and a fun person to be around. Please send your CV and portfolio to: info@indonesiaexpat. biz Due to the high number of applicants, not everyone will be contacted. Good luck!

ads@indonesiaexpat.biz for competitive advertising rates and get noticed through our printed publication, e-newsletter and on our website.

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Indonesia expat issue 149

A drummer is required for an Expat band of Australian and A mer ic a n musicia ns. Blues/ rock and Motown are the genres we will be playing. We are all within the North Jakarta area. If interested please email interest to: triplej4828@gmail.com Bartele Gallery Kemang is looking for an assistant to join their team, t o help w it h t he day-t o - day running of the gallery. Position: Antique Gallery Assistant, Female (Age: 18–25). Specif ic Ta sk s and duties: sales and customer services in the Gallery, artwork and giftware displays, sales and deliver y administration. The ideal candidate must have good command in English, creative, have good proactive communication skills (essential), self-motivated, able to work independently, and as part of a team, trustworthy, reliable. Bartele Gallery is the only dedicated gallery in Indonesia for original rare antiques maps from all parts of the world, some over 500 years old. Besides maps and prints, we also sell historic books, old photographs and antiques. Please send your CV to: sake@bartelegallery.com

Spanish/Indonesian translators: If you need experienced and native translators to translate in this language pair (both ways) please call us (FNA) +62 (0) 812 8821 5625 Email: elejakarta@ gmail.com A full time Bahasa Indonesia instructor has some openings for expats interested to have Bahasa Indonesia lessons. Please call +62 (0) 813 17914231

the expat website, come visit. S ept emb er 1 s t m a rke d ou r 18th year providing a wealth of practical information for newly arrived expatriates through our in-depth articles on medical, housing, schooling, social life and more. Living in Indonesia, A Site for Expatriates www.expat.or.id Property For rent 300 houses at Kemang, Cipete, Cilandak, Jeruk Purut, Pondok Indah. Big gardens, swimming pools, USD 2,000 5,000. Phone: +62 (0) 816 859 551 or +62 (0) 817 009 3366

French and Bahasa lesson at your place for children until adult with qualified teacher. Contact Novi 0816704370 Bahasa Indonesia lessons for expats living in South Jakarta, Kuningan, Country Wood, BSD, given by instructor with 20 years experience. Flexible Schedule. Please call Pak Chair uman +62 (0) 812 103 7466 email chairuman1942@gmail.com Spanish Tutor: Learn Spanish at your place with a DELEcertified examiner from Spain. Most of my students come from International Schools (JIS and BSJ). Please call me (Raúl) +62 (0) 821 1050 2786 Email: unascartas@yahoo.com Is it all too much? I can help you organise your life so you have more time to enjoy it. I can arrange your receipts, do the books, manage house staff, find home and school, book travel. At local rates. Liswati: lismona33@ yahoo.com; 082123914687 call/ sms/whatsapp SILC seminars present. LOVE TALK event 27 September @ 5pm. For singles & Couples. The seminar have a s the main target to bring tips and instr uctions to better your relationship between you and your partner/family. Available seats: seminarcenterid@gmail. com

C&C Construction is a home builder and remodeling c o n s t r u c t i o n c o m p a n y. From concept to completion, we m a n a ge a l l t he ph a s e s throughout the entire design and build process. We are reliable and dedicated to fulfilling your dreams. For free consultation, please tel/sms Bill at 081 808 194 180 or email billthieroff@ gmail.com

Welcome to Jakarta! If you haven’t a lready discovered

House for Rent. One nice house 2 storey, one large joined pool, b e aut i f u l g a rden , 24Hou r s security compound, no cement wa ll bet ween houses in the c omp ou nd . A ppr ox i m a t e l y 500m2 house with 1,000m2 land, located at Jl. Margasatwa Raya, 10 Minutes to Cilandak Commercial Estate. USD3,000 per month with minimum one year lease. If interested (no Broker/Agent), call owner +62 (0) 811 180605. A new Apa r tment ava ilable for rent or sell including fully furnished 3 bedrooms 2 bathrooms 1 maidrooms + toilet Tv/dining room all 112 m2 at 29th Floor in St. Moritz Puri Indah in royal tower price can be discussion. Mobile 0818694139

SAHID SUDIRMAN RESIDENCE FOR LEASE. Min 1 year. 2 bedrooms. 2 bathrooms (1 with bathtub) 3 ACs. Fully furnished & modern interior design. Only need to bring luggage Gross area 90m2. Big balcony Pa r k i n g s p a c e . Fa c i l i t i e s: Gym, Swimming Pool, Bank, Restaurant, Laundry, Close to Hospital, next to Intercontinental Hot el a nd w it h i n 5 m i n t o Bunderan H.I. Heart of the CBD. Rental : USD $1,850/month Will be converted to Rupiah at deal of transaction. O.N.O (serious deals only) Maintenance Fee included. Contact: 0815 132 123 13 Sub-let a nice office while you get organised. Need to get moving on an office in South Jakarta? But it’s taking time to find the right one? We have one floor of Rukan 14 x 6 fully furnished own phone line available in Kemang Timur Raya. 3 month minimum at Rp10m per month (advance) or 6 mths at Rp 8m per month (advance). Ready for immediate use. Suit team of 3-6 people. Call David on 0816933261 or Yaya on 021 7192105. Denpasar Residence Apartment f o r r e nt @ K u n i ng a n C i t y, Fully Fur nished, 36 t h f loor,

2+1Bedroom, 2+1Bathroom, 93 sqm, maid room, mall access, pool, gym, playground, Balinese theme garden, 24 hours security & lobby, sauna, Jacuzzi, USD1,799 p er mont h N E G O T I A BL E , minimum 1 year lease. Contact + 6 2 81 31 5 0 01 18 8 (J i m m y) Whatsapp or email: jhandoko@ yahoo.com Personals

Do you need an impressive date for your next corporate event? Someone to share a genuine and interesting day or evening with? I am a graduate educated, wellspoken, attractive, healthy 30 year old caucasian female. Blonde hair, blue eyes, English (& Bahasa) speaking, slender build with a great sense of style. I can add class, intimacy, fun and interest to any situation. This is a non-sexual service, but I can pose as anyone you like. Please contact chelsea. arnold11@gmail.com Automotives 2011 Hyundai H1. Registered till December 2015. low mileage 39500 kilometres, second owner This car seats 9 and is comfortable roomy vehicle , great when you are spending a lot of time in the car. I has been regularly serviced at Hyundai and comes with manual and service book. Automatic transmission, 2.4l engine, 2 zone air conditioning (rear cabin controls), remote control DVD player, Sat Nav, seat armrests, walk through to rear seats. Plenty of storage in back. Asking USD 23,900, make an offer. Hyundai H1 for sale therese@theharpergroup.com.au

Ne at Gre y 2014 Merc e de s Benz ML350 RWD for sale its neat,accident free,executive,power steering,electric windows. its f a i rly u s e d a l mo s t ne w, s o comfortable, one of the best luxurious cars I have ever seen. Its simply magnificent. For more details contact me on my email ckingstonson@hotmail.com 2 Cars for Sale. 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee L imited 4.7L f ull time 4 wheel drive (Automatic Transmission) Forest Green with Leather interior Upgraded radio and video monitor headrests (we also have the original radio and seat headrests). Fully maintained and works great Shocks, AC system, and Battery were recently replaced. Rear lights have been replaced with LED rear lights. These new lights are brighter and function better. It also has high intensity low beam lights for better night driving. Comparable Jeeps are running about Rp.190,000,000 but asking Rp.170,000,000

2010 Toyot a In nova | 2.OL Model G - Luxury (Standard Transmission) Silver with Cloth Interior & Full Leather Seat Covers, Floor Mats & Cargo Mat No Mechanical Issues. Fully maintained. Upgraded Radio w it h DV D Pl ayer a nd r e a r passenger viewing screens. Asking price is Rp.170.000.000. Pictures available at Drop Shots - http:// www.dropshots.com/salesman Password: 321cba. Email Russell for more information/of fer: car4sale.jakarta@gmail.com

2010 Airstream Mercedes-Benz Sprinter for sale. This van is a full house in a van. It has everything, from comfortable sleeping facilities,kitchen facilities,toilet facilities. Ideal for camping long travelling or even living inside as a home. This is a house on wheels Condition:Used Clear Title. E n g i n e :3 . 0L V6 C y l i n d e r. Transmission:5 Spd Automatic. Mileage:6,704. Exterior Color: Si lver. Int er ior C olor: Ta n. Interior Surface: Leatherette Wa r ra nt:Ba la nc e of Factor y Warrant y. Contact: scardinstone@hotmail.com Others License available. Latest aesthetic Stem Cell & RNIR business. Regenerate, rejuvenate & anti

aging treatment. Price includes s e t up c o s t s , f i r s t mont h’s rent, equipment, starter kit, training, marketing package. Available: Indonesia, Myanmar, India . Contact: marcia@ mlw.enterprises, ann@mlw. enterprises or phone for appt to(+6221)72791968

Outdoor sy nthetic rat tan furniture set (6 single seats + 1 sofa/double seats + glass top table + large umbrella) – Rp.9 million

Experience our hospitality and the complete privacy of your own beach house. Villa Gamrang (Cisolok beach, 4 hours’ drive from Jakarta) is designed to offer guests a wonderful and luxurious holiday with beautiful and natural surroundings. Stylish interior, several outdoor terrace’s, sea view, spacious garden, swimming pool, 4 bedrooms and 3 bathrooms, complete kitchen, cable television, internet (WiFi). Idyllic place for couples or one or two families. Staf f and in house cater ing ava ilable. At tra c tive pr ices starting from Rp.1,800,000 per night. Most of our guests visit us again. Reservations: www. villagamrang.nl or just mail us at villagamrang@gmail.com

Flores Complete Tronic A lpha 300 studio flash lights – Rp.3 million. SMS at 0811 921 219. Will accept any reasonable offer.

Pelabuhan Ratu Property

Property Land for Sale. For sale only IDR 220M. Land/garden size of 350 square metres, located nearby Pasar Lama Perumnas Maumere, Flores, Certificated (SHM). For more information, please phone: +62 8124142356

Discover Villa Gamrang.

issue 149 Indonesia expat

Indonesia expat issue 149

issue 149 Indonesia expat

Indonesia expat issue 149