Indonesia Expat - Issue 155

FR EE !

I S S U E N O . 15 5 | 2 – 15 D E C E M B E R 2 015

INDONESIA TO BE MORE VIGILANT FOLLOWING ISIS ATTACKS

J A K A R TA • J AVA • B A L I • LO M B O K • K A L I M A N TA N • S U M AT R A • S U L AW E S I • W E S T PA P U A

KEEPING AN EYE ON THE FLUCTUATING RUPIAH

TRAVEL TO THE ACEH GAYO HIGHLANDS

JANICE GIRARDI OF BALI ANIMAL WELFARE ASSOCIATION

W W W . I N D O N E S I A E X PAT. B I Z

DOLPHINS HELD CAPTIVE IN BALI AND JAVA

issue 155 Indonesia expat

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Indonesia expat issue 155

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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

Dear Readers,

Editor in Chief

of establishing an independent republic in Ireland, and carrying out frequent acts of violence in Britain to achieve their aims through intimidation.

Angela Richardson angela@indonesiaexpat.biz

Management

Edo Frese edo@indonesiaexpat.biz

Editorial Assistant

Cararnissa Djatmiko letters@indonesiaexpat.biz

Sales

Dian Mardianingsih dian@indonesiaexpat.biz Felicitas Suwono felice@indonesiaexpat.biz

Distribution & Admin

Juni Setiawan admin@indonesiaexpat.biz

Graphics

Frederick Ng

Finance

Lini Verawaty finance@indonesiaexpat.biz

Contributors

Stephanie Brookes Josefhine Chitra Karen Davis Annali Hayward Alice Jay Simon Pitchforth Hans Rooseboom Eamonn Sadler Ardi Wirdana Kenneth Yeung

Terrorism is a much disputed term, and one that is thrown around and splashed across newspapers on a daily basis. It is easy to feel the threat of such inhumane acts in today’s modern age, especially as we have 24-hour news channels broadcasting information to all four corners of the globe instantaneously, making the world a smaller place. Although it may feel like the situation is getting worse, it’s important to remember that such acts of violence against opposing parties of different beliefs have been going on for centuries.

The first recorded ‘terrorist’ attack was as early as the 1st century AD by Sicarii Zealots, an extremist splinter group of the Jewish Zealots, who attempted to expel the Romans and their partisans from the Roman province of Judea.

According to contemporary historian Josephus, the Sicarii would hide daggers under their cloaks, mingle with crowds at large festivals, murder their victims, and then disappear into the panicked crowds.

An example of terrorism to oppress a race of people can be seen in the United States. After the American Civil War in 1865, Confederate veterans created the Ku Klux Klan (KKK). The

“Terrorism has become the systematic weapon of a war that knows no borders or seldom has a face.”

– Jacques Chirac

KKK used violence, lynching, murder and acts of intimidation to oppress African Americans, and created a sensation by covering their faces with long, pointed white masks.

One of the earliest groups to utilize modern terrorist techniques was arguably the Fenian Brotherhood and its offshoot the Irish Republican Brotherhood. They were both founded in 1858 as revolutionary and militant nationalist groups, both in Ireland and amongst the emigrant community in the United States. After centuries of continued British rule, and influenced from the devastating effects of the 1840s Irish potato famine, these revolutionary fraternal organizations were founded with the aim

With the recent spate of terrorist attacks across Paris, Beirut, Kenya, Nigeria and Syria, we deemed it necessary to run a story on the Islamic State in Iraq and Syria (ISIS), who claimed responsibility for the attacks.

The feature story by Ardi Wirdana discovers whether or not specialists on the subject think the threat of an attack on Indonesian soil is imminent, and delves into the reasons for why intelligent Muslims around the world are packing up and heading to Syria to join in this modern war. It’s interesting to note that Indonesia has yet to declare ISIS a terrorist organization, which is making it hard for local authorities to capture suspects involved.

What does the future hold for us? I don’t think anyone really knows. The most important thing is for all of us to stand in solidarity as citizens of the world against acts of inhumanity. We could take a leaf out of the Dalai Lama’s book, who once said, “My religion is simple. My religion is kindness.”

Angela Richardson Editor in Chief

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Dear editor,

Dear Frank,

I enjoy reading your magazine/paper.

Thanks for your letter.

I sometimes read the print version if I stop in at my daughter’s school to pick it up, but I usually read it online when you send the bi-weekly e-newsletter.

We are very happy to hear you are enjoying our new website. We like it, too!

I have to say your new website is much, much better! It loads really quickly and it’s clear and easy on the eyes, not like many other news and magazine’s websites – and some of these have only recently been launched, too! Talk about getting a headache when trying to navigate.

So, thanks for making your new site so sleek and easy to read.

The most important aspects for us while updating our site are that it is mobile-responsive, easy to read and navigate, and loads fast.

We are still working on making it much better and in the New Year we will be bringing you more regular online content, so keep your eyes peeled!

I’m also enjoying the more serious, newsworthy content you’ve been running, and especially the investigative stuff. Keep it up!

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Issue 155

Contents

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Feature Story Indonesia Urged to Be More Vigilant Following ISIS Attacks

Expat Business

Featured Central Bank and Government Watch Closely as Rupiah Continues to Fluctuate

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Business Profile Romie Johanes of Re.juve

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Meet the Expat Frank Findlow

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Expat Lifestyle Food & Drink Hujan Locale

History The Outdoor Museum of Taman Prasasti Travel Aceh Gayo: Exploring the Central Highlands

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Meet the Expat Janice Girardi of BAWA

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Scams in the City Mama Wants Credit, Papa Wants Shares

Expat Outreach

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Conservation Dying to Entertain

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Worthy Causes Paisley Things

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Announcements

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Light Entertainment He Who Laughs Last

25

Humorous Observations Damp Spirits

26

Events

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Business Directory

28

Classifieds

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FEATURE STORY

Indonesia Urged to Be More Vigilant Following ISIS Attacks Following ISIS terror attacks in Paris, Indonesian officials have been urged to step up the nation’s counter-terrorism measures, as the country remains at risk.

By Ardi Wirdana

T

he recent terrorist attacks on Paris, for which the Islamic State group in Iraq and Syria (ISIS) claimed responsibility, have put countries around the globe on high alert. The incidents underscore some all-too-real dangers the militant group poses, particularly for those not living in the Middle East.

With a number of Indonesian civil servants reportedly joining ISIS mere weeks before the Paris attacks, and a recent ISIS threat to neighbouring Singapore, the world’s most populous Muslim nation is seriously asking itself whether locals are safe from ISIS’s ideology and its brutal attacks.

It’s a harsh reality, but despite being generally regarded as a moderate Muslim nation, Indonesia can most certainly be considered fertile ground for the spread of ISIS ideology. Earlier this year, Indonesian police confirmed 159 local citizens left the country to join the group, also known as ISIL or IS. The real number could be much higher, with officials estimating that more than 500 Indonesians may have entered Syria to link up with ISIS. According to the Institute for Policy Analysis and Conflict (IPAC), the appeal of joining ISIS boils down to a few different factors.

In its September 2014 academic report titled Evolution of ISIS in Indonesia, IPAC writes: “The appeal of ISIS is different, [it’s] a combination of religious prophecies involving Syam (greater Syria); [a] string of victories in Iraq in June that gave a sense of backing a winner; the resonance of the concept of the Caliphate; and sophisticated use by ISIS of social media.”

For those who are less familiar, a Caliphate is a form of Islamic government led by a person considered a political and religious successor to the Islamic prophet, Muhammad.

ISLAMIC PROPHECIES AND THE DREAM OF CALIPHATE

Islamic prophecies related to Syria have been well documented. A number of ‘Hadiths’ (reports of deeds, teachings, and sayings of the Prophet Mohammed) warn of a war between an Islamic army and an “infidel horde” in Syria, which is said to be one of the signs of the end of the world. The battle, which is referred to as the “Malahim” – an equivalent to the Armageddon in Christian teachings –

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The Wreath Laid by Secretary Kerry and French Foreign Minister Fabius Is Pictured Outside the Hyper Cacher Kosher Market in Paris. © Wikimedia

will be won by Muslims, according to the Hadiths.

It’s the conviction for fulfilment of this prophecy that fuels Jihadis to take part in the war in Syria. For them, to be able to fight in the grand battle promised by the prophet some 1,300 years ago is a privilege and an honour.

IPAC reports that between July and August last year, allegiance ceremonies were held in a number of cities across Indonesia, in which an estimated total of 2,000 people swore oaths to support the concept of a Caliphate. Though the vast majority of those 2,000 will not have any interest in violence, the report explains the numbers “are an indication of the appeal that the

There is also the widespread longing by many Muslims to establish a true Islamic state, in which complete Islamic law is applied under the leadership of a Khalifah (the leader of a Caliphate). Indonesia is home to numerous Islamic groups and organisations that call for the unity of Muslims to form a Caliphate.

However, it’s important to note that not all of these organisations employ or tolerate violence in an effort to achieve their goal.

The Hizbut Tahrir organisation, which is arguably the loudest campaigner for a Caliphate in Indonesia, for example, focuses on creating mass community support and has never advocated violence.

Islamic State (IS) insurgents, Anbar Province, Iraq

idea of a Caliphate can generate in a devout public” like Indonesia.

EXTENSIVE BUT DISJOINTED JIHADI NETWORKS

In late January, the national police confirmed 16 Indonesians were arrested in Turkey for attempting to cross the border

Ardi Wirdana is a Jakarta-based journalist covering a variety of topics including business, policy, and news in Indonesia.

Jones told foreign journalists in Jakarta recently that a coordinated attack on the scale of the Paris strike is highly unlikely in Indonesia. into Syria. Director of IPAC, Sidney Jones, says the 16 Indonesians were linked to local terrorist groups. She adds that nearly all Indonesians who fly to Syria to support ISIS tend to be linked to existing Jihadi networks back home in Indonesia.

Jones specifically cites two out of the four Indonesian women detained in Turkey, who turned out to be sisters-in-law. Both of the women’s husbands are members of a Jihadi network. One was involved in plotting a Bali terrorist attack, while the other fought and was reportedly killed in Syria.

nations, which are not considered an enemy or threat to the Islamic State.

Earlier this year, however, ISIS named Singapore as a possible target for attack, according to a report by S. Rajaratnam School of International Studies. The report suggests the ISIS threat to Singapore and Southeast Asian countries in general is indeed set to grow, following the growth of the Katibah Nusantara, an ISIS combat unit consisting of Southeast Asian fighters who find it easier to communicate in Bahasa Indonesia and Malay, rather than Arabic.

The Jihadi networks, she adds, are extensive, stretching from the west to the east of Indonesia and have made their way into various Islamic groups and organizations. The pervasive nature of these networks makes it difficult for the police to track down and stop them.

Anti terrorist police in Indonesia, Den88 or Detachment88

One positive phenomenon, from the police’s point of view, is the fact that radical groups are divided in their stance towards ISIS, with some giving support and others not.

According to the police, this has in fact weakened local Jihadi groups.

Jihadi groups in Indonesia are split over the doctrinal issue of whether security forces of an idolatrous state could be condemned as “Kafir” (non-believers) institutionally, or whether they should be judged as individuals. Some groups believe all opposing forces should be considered nonbelievers, whose property should be seized or their blood shed, while others maintain the belief that this shouldn’t be applied to everyone.

Notorious extremist group Jamaah Ansharut Tauhid (JAT), led by firebrand cleric Abu Bakar Ba’asyir, was split internally because of this dispute. Ba’asyir reportedly pledged his allegiance to ISIS leader Al-Baghdadi, then instructed all JAT members to support his decision or leave the group. This prompted a number of JAT members, including Ba’asyir’s own son, Abdurrahim, to form a new organisation called Jamaah Ansyarusy Syariah.

COULD ISIS STRIKE IN INDONESIA?

While the ISIS teachings have been welcomed by some groups in Indonesia, Jones told foreign journalists in Jakarta recently that a coordinated attack on the scale of the Paris strike is highly unlikely in Indonesia. This is partly because ISIS central is not interested in Southeast Asian

Kapolda Papua Tito Karnavian

Taufik Andrie from the Institute for International Peace Building, an Indonesian counter-terrorism think tank, says that the region, including Indonesia, should not read too much into the threat, as the Katibah Nusantara unit is currently only focused on fighting battles in Syria and Iraq.

However, once the fighters return to their respective homelands, the situation could easily change. “If there is a wave of homecoming of ISIS-affiliated Katibah Nusantara [fighters], then Indonesia must be on alert, because they could carry out terror actions on home soil,” Andrie told local media outlet Republika.

Attacks on Indonesian soil could also be prompted by the issuance of certain regulations on Jihadis and radical groups.

The idea of imposing travel bans to conflict zones, for example, could prove to be a problem. Theoretically, this could prompt Jihadis, who set their sights on fighting in the Middle East to launch an attack locally out of frustration.

IT’S NOW OR NEVER FOR LOCAL AUTHORITIES

The government needs to be extremely careful in setting regulations on ISIS to avoid counter-productivity. That said, any realistic regulations on ISIS have been hard to come by, as its existence in Indonesia is merely in the form of ideology, which is naturally difficult to regulate and criminalize.

In August of last year, Indonesia declared it had officially banned ISIS in the country.

However, no further action has been taken by legislators as a result of this ban. “Our legislation today is not sufficient to cover, prevent, or investigate those supporting ISIS,” says Police Inspector General, Tito Karnavian.

Analysts say Indonesia needs a number of stronger laws to enforce its commitment to banning ISIS, as the existing laws make it hard for authorities to press criminal charges against Indonesian ISIS sympathisers.

Former chief security minister Tedjo Edhy Purdjiatno says the 16 Indonesians detained in Turkey would likely evade charges when they return home, as none of them are actually considered criminals in the eyes of the local law. The local antiterrorism law also cannot be applied to these people, as Indonesia hasn’t officially declared ISIS a terror organization.

Likewise, the five suspected ISIS militants arrested recently are likely to be charged for other crimes, but not for recruiting Indonesians to join ISIS, says Purdjiatno.

In order to fight the spread of ISIS in Indonesia, police say they will need the legal power to stop actions such as verbal support for ISIS, travelling overseas to support terrorist groups, and propagating terrorist ideology in the archipelago.

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EXPAT BUSINESS FEATURED

Central Bank and Government Watch Closely as Rupiah Continues to Fluctuate Analysts say Indonesia’s rupiah will further fluctuate. Meanwhile, the government and Central Bank experiment with stimulus packages and market intervention.

By Josefhine Chitra

I

n August, the rupiah touched a 17-year low of 14,800 against the US dollar.

Then, in October, it surged more than any other currency in Asia, hitting 13,400.

The government claims the stronger rupiah was the result of six stimulus packages and the Central Bank’s intervention that supposedly created market-calming circumstances.

“There are two main factors [related to] the rising rupiah. The first is when Indonesia’s Central Bank releases policies, such as intervention to keep the rupiah’s volatility, liquid, and supply-demand [levels] manageable so as to reduce the risk of speculation,” says Head of the Economic Projection and Policy Simulation Division at Indonesia’s Central Bank IGP Wira Kusuma in an interview with Indonesia Expat. “Secondly, [in this case] the government’s six stimulus packages also sent positive sentiment to investors.”

The stronger rupiah was only short-lived, however, as it again weakened to 13,775 on November 20. Although it hasn’t gone completely back to its lowest rate, Divya Devesh, a strategist at British multinational banking and financial services company Standard Chartered, predicts the Indonesian rupiah will continue to fluctuate between 13,500 and 14,000 until the beginning of next year.

To better understand the rupiah’s future, one must first become familiar with the driving factor of its rise and decline. When the rupiah rose in October, apart from the Central Bank’s intervention, there were also external factors at play from two of the world’s economic powerhouses.

The first was uncertainty from the US Federal Reserve, which resulted in higher interest rates. The US also had a higher unemployment rate than originally forecasted, which indicated the nation’s economic recovery wasn’t as stellar as investors may have thought. Second, the European Central Bank also signalled it would inject more stimulus to boost emerging market currencies, like the rupiah.

Additionally, the decline of the rupiah is largely affected by investors who wait and speculate about the Federal Reserve’s interest rates. If the rate increases, investors will move their portfolios to the US and thereby cause a dip in the rupiah’s value.

Currently, about 60 percent of the nation’s stock market is owned by foreign investors, making Indonesia’s currency value heavily contingent on this group of investors’ decisions.

Within the country, there are yet more variables at play. An excessive amount of hot money investing [capital that’s

frequently transferred between financial institutions in an attempt to maximise interest or capital gains]; a small market for foreign currencies; the negative growth of exports; and a deficit in the country’s balance of payments also determine the rupiah’s future.

Given that the rupiah is largely driven by external factors, one should ask: why has the currency not yet gained a stronger foothold?

Enny Sri Hartati, macroeconomic researcher at the Institute for Development of Economics and Finance tells Indonesia Expat, “Indonesia’s trade performance, especially in the oil and gas sectors, has been in a deficit since 2011. Consequently, the trade deficit puts pressure on the rupiah and our exchange reserve is low.”

The rupiah’s weak and fluctuating nature implies several things, especially for the country’s overall economic health and level of attractiveness to foreign and local investors alike.

“The embattled rupiah will impede economic growth as we can see in 2015.

[This year’s] growth only ranges from 4.6 to 4.7 percent. The risk of default from private sectors is also higher because now the rupiah is getting weaker,” explains Hartati.

When a currency is weak, a country will usually try to take advantage of this by ramping up exports. For example, China sometimes devalues its currency intentionally to boost exports. The logical question is: can Indonesia do this, too?

Hartati answers, “Unfortunately the weak rupiah cannot act as momentum to push exports because more than 80 percent of our exports are commodities or raw materials, which experience the price decline. This directly affects the growth of regional economies, which rely on commodity exports, such as Kalimantan, Sulawesi, and Sumatra.”

Hartati adds, “At the same time, manufacturers cannot boost their exports because they are dependent on imported materials. Prices get more expensive due to the weak value of the rupiah.”

It’s important to remember that expensive imported items can also lead to inflation, which can make manufacturing industries worse off, even to the point of needing to lay employees off due to increased production costs.

Kusuma acknowledges that Indonesia’s exports in 2015 have slowed due to weakening global economic growth and falling commodity prices. However, he says in the third quarter of this year, economic growth increased slightly due to more public spending. In a media briefing, Kunta W.D. Nugraha, Director of Budget Formulation at the Finance Ministry, said the government is on track to pay out 85 to 90 percent of its capital spending plan in 2015.

“In the future, Indonesia’s domestic economy will be the motor of our growth due to high uncertainty of the global economy’s future,” adds Kusuma. Hartati further explains the fluctuation of Indonesia’s rupiah has potential to confuse investors while making business plans.

“Many business transactions depend on foreign exchange,” she says. “Therefore, when the foreign exchange is not stable, businesses will hesitate to decide about their plan ahead. It’s not impossible that the investors will move their capital inflow to countries with more stable currencies.”

In spite of it all, however, Hartati can still see a bright side to the weak rupiah. “If the hot money in Indonesia is moving to other countries, local investors can take the opportunity to buy affordable stocks.

Thus, the decline of rupiah can also invite optimism of local stock market players,” she suggests.

© thepresidentpost.com

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Josefhine Chitra is a former communications consultant and will soon enter a graduate programme at the London School of Economics & Political Science. For more information visit www.copycolision.com

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© businesstimes.com.sg

Aware of the costs and benefits of a weak rupiah, the government along with the Central Bank must continue their existing policies to bolster the currency’s foothold

Aware of the costs and benefits of a weak rupiah, the government along with the Central Bank must continue their existing policies to bolster the currency’s foothold.

Hartati makes a recommendation. “The Central Bank can reduce the use of dollars for domestic transactions and incentivise exporters through tax cuts to exchange their dollars for rupiah once they finalise transactions.”

The government should also mitigate bureaucracies associated with starting new businesses in the archipelago. This would serve as an incentive for investors who are looking to put their money into the country, long-term.

Kusuma, on behalf of the Central Bank, claims to be monitoring and evaluating the effectiveness of the nation's existing short-term measures. “In the long run, the government will do structural reformation, especially for anything related to building added value for our exported goods so we will not only rely on natural resources,” he explains. “We also will expand our market [activities] abroad, thus our supply of foreign exchanges will be bigger.”

Kusuma adds, “We are fully aware of how important stability is for foreign and local investors to predict their costs and benefits.

Therefore, the Central Bank along with the government will always pay attention to Indonesia’s macroeconomic stability to create a conducive climate for investment.”

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EXPAT BUSINESS BUSINESS PROFILE

Promoting Healthier and Happier Days with Re.juve Colourful Re.juve juice bars are popping up all over the capital, introducing healthy cold-pressed juices with no added sugar to the local market – and customers are lapping it up. We meet the brand business and development head Romie Johanes, who has been involved with Re.juve from the research and development phase to having opened 14 stores across Jakarta and Tangerang since launching in 2015.

By Angela Richardson

When was the Re.juve founded and how was the concept born?

Re.juve is part of the Gunung Sewu Group and was born as a sustainable company linked with Gunung Sewu’s fresh produce plantation. Gunung Sewu group owns the plantation, runs a chilled logistical operation, so we thought, why not launch a juicer?

We also started Re.juve as a genuine and honest juice brand for our customers. A lot of juices in Jakarta were questionable in terms of hygiene and quality and we want to serve Jakarta with 100 percent pure and fresh juices, where we add nothing to the ingredients besides freshly squeezed fruit and vegetables. This means we don’t add sugar, water, artificial sweeteners, preservatives and concentrate to our juices.

Tell us about your role in the company.

I am in charge of Re.juve’s expansion, store operations, branding and marketing, and I was assigned to the brand from scratch. My managing director, Richard Anthony, and I carried out extensive research for one year, visiting every single juicer in San Francisco, Los Angeles and New York. We then underwent concept development, business formats, recipe creation and everything else needed to create a premium juicer.

Tell us about cold pressed juices. What are the health benefits?

Cold-pressed juicers (the technology that we use) do not create oxidation and do not create heat during the process of juicing.

Because antioxidants, enzymes and nutrients are easily destroyed by heat and

oxidation, cold-pressed juicing makes sure of optimal nutrition in each bottle.

After the ‘fast food’ fad was seen to take over the country, Indonesia seems to be entering a health food revolution. Has it been easy entering the market when you did? What challenges did you face?

The ‘Indohealthvolution’ is definitely starting! Re.juve had been planned long before the trend started and Gunung Sewu had the vision that this health industry will be sustainable, feasible and promising. It aimed to launch Re.juve as a business that is meaningful through genuine products that promote health and wellness.

The challenge has been bringing customers to our stores; customers who have the option to spend their money on sugary treats or other indulgent beverages. We needed to convince them to spend their money at our stores on healthy options instead. Once they are in our stores, endless education is needed to convince first-timers that our cold-pressed juices are honest, genuine and worth their money.

We passionately spent endless hours on education about how premium our products are. We did this one customer, one community, one day at a time. It was, and still is, a challenge to get new customers to try our products, but it’s very satisfying to see new customers quickly turn into regulars.

Re.juve outlets seem to be located nearby or directly outside of gyms. Can you tell us more about your business strategy?

Romie Johanes, Brand Business and development head of re.juve

We have a lot of stores in malls, residential areas, at offices and close to gyms. We really like to be the destination and preferred brand for customers looking for healthier options. Our focus is on delivering ‘good for you F&B options’ and ‘convenience’. We aim to provide cold-pressed juices, nourishing smoothies and healthy bites for before and after the gym or work, during your afternoon break, before commuting home, and during leisure time.

What is Rejuve’s vision and mission?

I read this every morning and I see the passion in my managing director when he says this before every meeting: “To promote healthier and happier days through delicious and healthier food and beverage selections.”

I always tell my team that our vision in Re.juve is to passionately promote healthier and happier days to customers and communities. We are not in food and beverage industry; we are in the health and wellness industry, driven by passion.

Where do you source your ingredients from and how have you had to adapt to the local market taste?

We source our ingredients from local fresh produce vendors that work with local farmers. A few ingredients such as orange navel and apples are imported.

Our premium golden pineapples are sourced from Gunung Sewu plantations and are exclusively available for Re.juve.

We source the finest, grade 1 ingredients and ship back a lot of fresh produce that we think is not first grade. We have random lab tests of our fresh produce to make sure they are free from pesticides and wax, and hold regular QC and hygiene audits in-stores to make sure the ingredients are stored and processed properly. In terms of operational handling, fresh fruit and vegetables are definitely much more complicated – but it’s a good thing, as it keeps us very alert and with very high operational standards.

BUSINESS SNIPPETS

Cyber Attacks on Southeast Asian Organizations is on the Rise FireEye, Inc. (NASDAQ: FEYE) and Singapore Telecommunications Limited (Singtel) on 19 November released a new report on advanced cyber attacks against organizations in Southeast Asia. In the first half of the year, organizations observed in the region faced a 45 percent higher risk of dealing with a targeted cyber attack than the global average. In the prior six-month period, they faced only a 7 percent higher risk.

Across the region, 29 percent of observed organizations were targeted with advanced cyber attacks in the first half of 2015.

Thailand and the Philippines were hardest hit, with 40 percent and 39 percent of observed organizations exposed to these attacks, respectively.

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More than one-third of malware detections associated with advanced persistent threat (APT) groups originated within the entertainment, media and hospitality industries. By targeting media organizations, threat groups can gain access to news before it is published and potentially identify undisclosed sources.

FireEye observed at least 13 APT groups targeting national government organizations and at least four APT groups targeting regional or state governments around the world.

"Espionage isn't new but it is increasingly conducted online, and Southeast Asia is a hot spot," said Eric Hoh, president for Asia Pacific Japan at FireEye. "Geopolitics

can drive cyber attacks. As Southeast Asia becomes a larger economic player on the world stage and tensions flare in the South China Sea, organizations should be prepared for targeted attacks."

William Woo, Managing Director, Enterprise Data and Managed Services at Singtel said, "The report emphasizes the frequency and sophistication of cyber attacks against all types of industries and enterprises in the region. The risk of attack, faced by regional enterprises, is higher than the global average. Therefore these enterprises must prioritize reinforcing their cyber defences. Even though APT attacks can be discovered within a shorter timeframe than before, which is currently after 205 days, this still leaves enterprises

When we launched Re.juve, we invited Lora Krulak, a juice chef from the US, to help us with the recipes. From there and through a lot of customer insight sessions, we adapted to suit local tastes. Indonesians still prefer a sweeter fruit juice.

Can you share with us a lesser-known fact about Rejuve products?

The Classic line is our customers’ all time favourite. This best seller line is famous because it consists of more fruit and is therefore sweeter.

Little do customers know that our office team prefers our Signature line because it is more advanced, where the juice consists of more varieties of fruit, vegetables and spices. The Signature line doesn’t use pineapple and therefore is less sweet.

I think most advanced juicers would appreciate the Signature line, but this line is hardly known.

Do you have plans to expand further in 2016?

We recently just operated and launched the first cold-pressed juice factory in Asia! It’s such a milestone for Re.juve to be the authority of cold-pressed juices in Indonesia.

The factory boasts a digitally-controlled environment (including 10 Celsius temperature, 2 Celsius filtered water, etc.) to make sure the juices are produced in a hygienic environment. This also means more automation by machines, minimal human contact from product washing, drying, recipes weighing, juicing, bottling and labelling.

wide open to malicious activity within their breached environment."

Threat intelligence is an important tool for organizations seeking to stay ahead of attackers. The report contains insights into recent developments in Southeast Asia's cyber threat landscape, such as groups targeting prominent institutions to gather political and economic intelligence, the detection of a known cyber espionage campaign, and threat actors' evolving techniques to evade detection.

State-owned bank compromised FireEye observed malware beaconing from a state-owned bank in Southeast Asia. FireEye Threat Intelligence believes the malware, called CANNONFODDER, is most likely used by Asian cyber threat groups to collect political and economic intelligence. In late-2014, FireEye observed the malware beaconing from an Asian

In 2016, we plan to open 12 more stores in the Greater Jakarta area. A lot of our customers ask us to open closer to them and we like to listen. We already have a lot of requests to open in Bandung and Surabaya.

A lot of exciting projects in 2016, including our Re.juve reward programme, a mobile application, online orderings and many more.

Does Rejuve have any special events coming up?

If customers would like to hold a juice talk or juice school, please contact me. We open our doors to anyone who is passionate about juicing or health and wellness. Let me know and we could hold an a-z about juicing in one of our stores.

What aspect of your job do you enjoy most?

Firstly, I love and I enjoy our cold-pressed juices. The more we sell, the more I feel that I have been genuinely and honestly promoting health and wellness to customers. Our cold-pressed juices are that good! I’ve never been so proud or passionate about a product before.

Secondly, I love our customers. I have met hundreds of them through many events or during store visits. They are more passionate about Re.juve products than I am! They share the same value of health and wellness, of having happier and healthier days – healthy that is still enjoyable.

To get in touch, please e-mail: romie.johanes@rejuve.co.id

telecommunications company. In mid2014, the company observed threat actors sending spear phishing emails with malicious attachments to employees of an Asian government.

Decade-long cyber espionage campaign detected In April 2015, FireEye released a report documenting an advanced persistent threat group referred to as APT30, which conducted a cyber espionage operation against businesses, governments and journalists in Southeast Asia for 10 years.

This group's malware, called Lecna, comprised 7 percent of all detections at FireEye customers in Southeast Asia in the first half of 2015.

Source: FireEye Inc. (www.fireeye.com)

issue 155 Indonesia expat

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EXPAT BUSINESS MEET THE EXPAT

there is an opportunity to elevate many supply chains in Indonesia to reach this same standard.

“I want to show companies here what good looks like and tell them how they can achieve the same results as their main competitors.”

Meet Frank Findlow

What Good Looks Like

After a long career working for major corporations around the world, Frank Findlow, as many successful businessmen do, came to the point in his life when he thought he’d achieved all he needed to and the time was right to retire. But it only took a few months of retirement for Findlow to realize his work was not finished yet.

W

hile living and working in Jakarta for logistics giant Linfox, Findlow began spending holidays in Bali with his wife, Elana. They soon realized how much they loved the island and decided to plan their retirement and build a house in Bali.

Frank and his wife Elana

But Frank Findlow is not most people. He had enjoyed his time climbing the ranks at companies like ICI, H. J. Heinz, and Linfox, and spent much of his career honing his skills and learning to recognize what he regularly refers to as ‘what good looks like’ in the world of international logistics.

His oversaw 8,500 employees, and among his achievements were negotiating a US$3.8M cost savings and efficiency, streamlining the manufacturing footprint in Australasia, and winning the Chairman’s Imperative Award.

But it only took a few months of retirement for him to realize his work-life ambitions hadn’t been fulfilled yet.

“I spent the first few months thinking I’d died and gone to heaven! But something was missing. I felt as though I hadn’t quite achieved everything I wanted to in my business career.

The pace and excitement of the changing economic landscape in Indonesia is one of the reasons Findlow feels drawn back to the world of business, and he says, “New opportunities in Indonesia mean that more businesses are looking at starting up or expanding their operations, and that makes it an exciting place to be.

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Indonesia expat issue 155

After a spell working in Libya’s oil industry, they settled in Canada and Frank was soon moving up through the ranks to become the supply chain director for H. J. Heinz in Asia Pacific.

Logistics costs in Indonesia are some of the highest in the ASEAN, and things need to change if the region wants to attract more investors.

“Bali is a beautiful place,” says Findlow, “with idyllic landscapes and interesting people. I guess most people would sit back and soak up the sun with a drink in their hand in such a relaxing atmosphere.”

“It took me a while, but it dawned on me.

Firstly, I’d never had the satisfaction of working for myself, and secondly, after years of working in Indonesia I just knew that I could make a difference in the evolution of the burgeoning logistics industry in the region.”

In the ‘60s, Findlow started out as an apprentice at chemical giant ICI in his hometown of Runcorn, in the north west of England, before deciding that he needed to broaden his career horizons. He and Elana decided to emigrate.

“I’ve worked in a lot of countries all over the world, and I can say that the people in Indonesia are some of the best I’ve worked with. But the quality of the logistics ‘offer’ in the region needs developing. That’s what makes it so exciting for me and why I’ve decided to get off my lounger and back into the business.

“Now I’m feeling really fired up to get out there again. Setting up my company Triple EFF Consulting allows me to work for myself and help build the logistics industry in Indonesia up to the same standard as its competitors in the region, particularly Vietnam and Singapore.

His tenure at Heinz sent him from Canada to New Zealand and Australia, to Singapore and across South East Asia, to China, Thailand and the Philippines. Once he had moved on from Heinz, Findlow’s work at Linfox Logistics further cemented his reputation as an expert in the field of supply chain management.

Findlow focused on implementing the largest warehouse in Asia, and improving efficiencies for clients in a number of countries, including Vietnam, China, India, and more recently, Indonesia.

“I’ve worked all over the world, and in a lot of these places I’ve seen what good looks like in the logistics industry: warehouses that run like well-oiled machines; supply chains that go from manufacturing to the consumer without a hitch; fleets of transport trucks getting to their destinations on time. And I think that

Findlow’s vision is that Triple EFF Consulting will provide assistance to both Indonesian local companies starting out and multinational firms hoping to expand into Indonesia. “I know my experience living and working in Indonesia gives me an advantage over many other firms offering consulting services,” he says.

Findlow has extensive leadership experience in a variety of industries, including mining, petrochemical, food, and logistics. He believes the breadth of his experience will be particularly helpful as he embarks on his consultancy career.

Findlow’s work in Indonesia has given him the chance to make many industry connections. Among them is Association of Logistics Indonesia (ALI) chairman Zaldy Ilham Masita, who recently urged the government to establish bonded logistics hubs connected to special economic zones (SEZs) in order to encourage more manufacturing investment in Indonesia.

Masita says, “Having worked with Frank over the past five years in many interesting countries on various projects, I can safely say we have learned together how to define what good looks like.

“Whether it’s a start up in India or a major implementation in China, I’ve seen firsthand how he can overcome the challenges and, by improving their ways of working, he’s definitely shown many enterprises ‘what good looks like’!”

ALI is working on continuing to improve Indonesia’s supply chains and logistics centres.

Findlow is blunt about the investment that’s needed to improve the region’s infrastructure, saying, “Logistics costs in Indonesia are some of the highest in the ASEAN, and things need to change if the region wants to attract more investors.”

Findlow agrees with ALI’s recommendations, and says he’s looking forward to working with businesses to offer solutions to deal with these logistics costs and navigate the changing economic landscape in the region.

After so many years working for big corporations, Findlow says he can’t wait to get started now that all the paperwork to set up Triple EFF is complete. “After having worked for so many large multinationals, starting up a business of my own is such a great feeling.

“I live and work in a place that I think is heaven on Earth and I’m my own boss doing what I do best. It doesn’t get any better than this!”

To get in touch, visit: www.tripleeffconsulting.com

issue 155 Indonesia expat

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EXPAT LIFESTYLE

FOOD AND DRINK

Right As

Rain HUJAN LOCALE

By Annalli Hayward

Will Meyrick’s name is now almost synonymous with the emergent Indonesian dining scene, with an evergrowing list of restaurants and accolades, from Sarong to MamaSan; Seminyak to Kuningan. He’s known for riffing on a Southeast Asian theme, but for me, the Meyrick hallmarks are simple: quality, flavour, and creativity.

S

afe to say, then, that Hujan Locale is the natural progression of the Street Food Chef’s restaurants.

For some time prior to this project, Meyrick had been making a point of sourcing his ingredients from local providers as much as possible. It follows then that Hujan Locale should pop up in Ubud, Indonesia’s spiritual zenith and health-food haven, where you can barely make it across a broken pavement without tripping over a raw-food, ethically-sourced vegan cafe. Reflecting this ethos, Meyrick helpfully points out the vegetarian, gluten- and nut-free dishes on his menu.

The restaurant is in an old, highceilinged house, overlooking a beautiful, typically Balinese courtyard next door.

Indochine-chic complements the coolgrey walls, and a lovely breeze passes through the windows of the top floor space.

As we sipped a few of the bartender’s more inventive cocktails – another Meyrick trademark – the man himself popped over to recommend a few dishes. Whereas MamaSan and E&O are unmistakeably pan-Asian, Hujan ‘Locale’ keeps it quite literal. “It’s different to our other restaurants,” Meyrick says, “in fact we’re changing the menu up to become even more Indonesian and Balinese.”

Indeed there are some real synergies between Balinese cuisine and that of Thailand and Vietnam, as Meyrick’s dishes often demonstrate. Lots of Indonesian food is fairly sweet and rich, but in the tropical paradise that is Bali, these flavours give way to salty, sour, and fragrant elements, courtesy of herbs, galangal and lemongrass – just as they do in the salads and soups of Indochina.

Exhibit A was some superb local squid, crispy with rice flour on the outside but soft in the middle, in a spicy salad of julienned ginger flower and crisp-fried Thai basil leaves. Herbs play a big role in Meyrick concoctions, and at Hujan Locale these are fresh from the kitchen garden. The ginger flower was refreshingly different, and overall this was a salad that packed a real punch, especially with its accompanying chilli jam. So too did the Tuna Tartare with watermelon and sliced banana flower.

Generous chunks of spankingly fresh fish were perfectly complemented by the sweet, juicy watermelon. Two delicious, light starters to begin with.

What, I ask you, is a meal in Bali without the wonder that is pork? Babi ‘genyol’ was Meyrick’s take on this classic: slices of pork belly stewed in a soup-like sauce fragrant with turmeric was the main attraction, but it was almost overshadowed by its accompaniments: great homemade Balinese ‘urutan’ sausage, and fantastic ‘krupuk’

made from farm-to-table pig’s ears. They boil the ears first, then dry and deep fry them really hot, to make a brilliantly crunchy and obsessively moreish snack: Bali’s answer to pork scratchings.

Next up was Sulawesi barramundi with sambal dabu dabu, which, I discovered, is also from Sulawesi and firmly my new favourite sambal; made with sour onions and green tomatoes. The fish was baked in a salt crust, a Mediterranean technique which locks the moisture in and results in soft, flaky flesh – a real star dish.

Finally, the Balinese speciality of ‘betutu’ – usually with duck – was given the Meyrick treatment. A generous portion of chicken was cooked in the traditional way: in lots of bumbu (a spice paste with kencur), underneath rice husks in the backyard overnight. The meat was very soft, and the dense, distinctly Balinese flavours danced around the palate.

It is imperative to leave room for something sweet at a Meyrick restaurant – his are some of the most innovative and straightup debauched desserts I’ve had in the archipelago. There’s also a whiff of nostalgia about them. Take the Ovaltine parfait for example – which managed to taste both exactly like Ovaltine and much, much better – or perhaps decadent chocolate cake with brilliant peanut butter ice cream. Finally, a real winner was the lemongrass panna cotta. I’ve had lots of interesting variations

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Indonesia expat issue 155

Annali Hayward is an expert eater, decisive drinker, fumbling fashionista and tasteful traveller, who writes to savour it all – preferably at once.

E-mail her at annali.s.hayward@gmail.com

on this creamy Italian dish in Indonesia from chefs who think they’re being clever.

But this one did not disappoint – refreshing, and just wobbly enough.

The wine list is out of the ordinary, and happily, some of the better bottles are offered by the glass, including a delicious, mineral-y Grüner Veltiner from Austria.

The restaurant is a great spot for a relaxed lunch. Hide here, out of the heat from the midday sun, and while away a few hours in between unbelievable Ubud shopping sprees. Equally, the well-stocked bar and cool atmosphere promises just as much fun for a night of cocktails, as you share a few dishes with friends and soak up the unmistakeable atmosphere of this unique town.

The clincher? I almost forgot all about the ‘conscious eating’ angle, embarrassingly enough. Hujan Locale is such a class act, it could have been peddled by the nefarious golden arches of McDonalds and I wouldn’t care. So by all means, choose this restaurant because it sources from local suppliers and treats them well – you’d be right to do so.

But I’m a simple soul. I’ll go back because it tastes so darn good.

Hujan Locale Jl. Sri Wedari No.5, Ubud, Gianyar, Bali 80571 Phone: +62(0)3618493092 Web: www.hujanlocale.com

EXPAT LAW & ORDER

Having visa nightmares, running the risk to be deported? No need...

NOW BE ALERT AND AWARE The Free Exemption Visa In early 2015, the Indonesian government, in an attempt to attract tourism, launched a marketing programme based on article 98 of the Immigration Regulation number 31 of 2013. Citizens of 75 countries can visit Indonesia for free, which means no fees are needed when entering Indonesia.

The visa confusion unraveled.

The visa is the most misunderstood document issued by Immigration.

Whether, a business, cultural, social, tourist, free or visa on arrival, it is the same visa. Legally correct named; the visit visa. Those different names cause many confusion, lead to many stories ending up as urban myths only. The Indonesian visa system is clear and transparent. This article unravels the visa and advises to use the right terminology.

In general only two visas are relevant for the average tourist or businessman visiting Indonesia; • the visit visa • the free exemption visa The Immigration Law in article 38 says: “‘a Visit Visa is granted to Foreigners, who will travel into the Indonesian Territory in order to perform government tasks, undertake educational, social or cultural activities, arrange tourism, handle business or family affairs or are on transit to another country’.

A general description leading to various interpretations. However, an elucidation of article 38 gives better insights into the possibilities: a Visit visa can be given to a visitor when he wants to be involved in the following activities: 1. Tourism; 2. Family visits; 3. Social; 4. Art and culture; 5. Government tasks; 6. Non-commercial sports; 7. Comparative study, short course, and short training; 8. Provide guidance, counseling and training in application and innovation of industrial technology in order to improve product quality and design of industry and collaboration in foreign marketing for Indonesia; 9. Emergency and urgent works; 10. Journalistic coverage, after a permit from the competent Ministry has been obtained; 11. Non-commercial film production, after a permit from the competent institute has been obtained; 12. Business negotiation, doing business talks; 13. Purchase of goods; 14. Provide speeches, giving lectures or participate in seminars; 15. Participate in international exhibitions or fairs; 16. Attend a conference held by head office or the representative office in Indonesia; 17. Auditing, production quality control, or inspection to subsidiaries in Indonesia up to one month; 18. Foreign labor (expats) candidates in a trial for their competence to work; 19. Proceed any travel to other countries; 20. Join the transport of tools that are present in the Indonesian Territory.

Sample of free exemption visa and countries list

VISA ON ARRIVAL (Countries/ Region) 7. Bahrain 8. Belgium 9. Netherlands 10. Brazil 11. Bulgary 12. Czech 13. Cyprus 14. Denmark 15. UAE 16. Estonia 17. Fiji 18. Finland 19. Hungary 20. India 21. England 22. Ireland 23. Iceland 24. Italy 25. Japan 26. Germany

27. Canada 28. South Korea 29. Kuwait 30. Latvia 31. Libya 32. Liechstenstein 33. Lithuania 34. Luxembourg 35. Maldives 36. Malta 37. Mexico 38. Egypt 39. Monaco 40. Norwegia 41. Oman 42. Panama 43. France 44. Poland 45. Portugal 46. Qatar

47. China 48. Romania 49. Russia 50. Saudi Arabia 51. New Zealand 52. Slovakia 53. Slovenia 54. Spain 55. Suriname 56. Sweden 57. Switzerland 58. Taiwan 59. Timor Leste 60. Tunisia 61. Turkey 62. Greece 63. Andorra 64. Belarusia 65. Croatia 66. Seychelles

VISA EXEMPTED COUNTRIES TO INDONESIA

For tourism purpose only*

BE AWARE; if your country is not mentioned on the above list you cannot get a visit visa on arrival for a business meeting at the airport!

You need to get a single or multiple visit visa at an Embassy!th

2. The Single Visit Visa If a visitor wants to stay longer in Indonesia, a Single Visit Visa should be applied for at an Indonesian Embassy or Consulate abroad. This single Visit Visa is 60 days valid and can be extended five times for 30 days at an Immigration Office in Indonesia. Be careful, it is a single entry visa so don’t leave Indonesia or it expires.

The passport must be 6 months valid and the visitor must submit an application form, a request annex sponsor letter, a return ticket and a passport photo.

This visit visa, as described, can be obtained in three different ways.

1. The Visit Visa on Arrival (VOA) A foreigner can apply for this visit visa upon arrival in Indonesia, if their nationality is included on the current visa on arrival countries list (see below). It is valid for 30 days and can be extended in Immigration Office for one time, for 30 days.

5. Australia 6. Austria

* Visa exempted only if entering Indonesia from designated international ports: • Airports — Batam, Surabaya, Medan, Bali, Jakarta • Seaports in Tanjung Uban — Bintan Telani Lagoi, Bandar Seri Udana Lobam • Seaports in Batam — Batam Center, Citra Tri Tunas, Marina Teluk Senimba, Nongsa Terminal Bahari, Sekupang • Tanjung Pinang — Sri Bintan Pura, Tanjung Balai Karimun Visa exempted will be given 30 (thirty) days of period stay, NOT EXTENDABLE

A foreigner who wants to travel frequently to Indonesia on a family or business matter are eligible to apply for a Multiple Visit Visa at an Indonesian Embassy or Consulate abroad. The sponsor (who needs to be a direct family member or a company) needs to apply for a telex approval with the Directorate General of Immigration in Jakarta first.

So, if a visitor arrives at the airport other than for tourism, he must ask for a Visit Visa on Arrival and refuse the issuance of a Free Exemption Visa. The visitor should tell he is coming for a business meeting, social activity or family meeting and request a visit visa on arrival. See requirements above.

A Multiple Visit Visa is valid for one year, to be used within three months after issuance. The visa allows the visitor to visit and leave Indonesia for a whole year as much as he wants, but each stay can last 60 days only.

Visitors of 15 countries can use the free exemption visa for business as well (see overview below).

The passport must be 18 months valid and the visitor must submit the telex approval, an application form, a request annex sponsor letter, a return ticket, copy of a bank account statement and a passport photo.

VISA EXEMPTED COUNTRIES TO INDONESIA

Allowed for tourism, business, government, or social cultural visits** 1. Thailand 2. Malaysia 3. Singapore 4. Brunei 5. Phillipines

VISA ON ARRIVAL (Countries/ Region) 3. USA 4. Argentina

52. Quwait 53. Romania 54. Russia 55. San Marino 56. Saudi Arabia 57. Seychelles 58. Slovakia 59. Slovenia 60. South Africa 61. South Korea 62. Spain 63. Suriname 64. Sweden 65. Switzerland 66. Taiwan 67. Tanzania 68. Timor Leste 69. Tunisia 70. Turkey 71. United Arab Emirates 72. United Kingdom 73. United States 74. Vatican 75. Venezuela

3. The Multiple Visit Visa

The passport must be six months valid and the visitor must possess a return or through ticket. For the visitor on a business trip it is advisable to possess an invitation letter from the company as well. So, a genuine business visa on arrival!

1. South Africa 2. Algeria

27. India 28. Ireland 29. Italy 30. Japan 31. Jordania 32. Kazakhstan 33. Kyrgistan 34. Latvia 35. Lebanon 36. Liechtenstein 37. Lithuania 38. Luxembourg 39. Maldives 40. Malta 41. Mexico 42. Monaco 43. Netherlands 44. New Zealand 45. Norwegia 46. Oman 47. Panama 48. Papua New Guinea 49. Poland 50. Portugal 51. Qatar

However, be very careful, this visa is only for tourist purposes! No family or social meetings and most of all; no business meetings or activities can be conducted whatsoever. When caught, an arrest and deportation will follow. Unfortunately, a number of business people have been arrested for being on a work site in the possession of a free exemption visa only. In some cases the visitor didn’t have a clue and genuinely thought the customs issued him a visa on arrival.

(Note: The Manpower department ruled on 23.10.2015 in Regulation no. 35 that work related to the installation of machinery, electrical, after-sales service, or a product in the future exploration efforts needs a temporary work permit)

On Indonesia’s Immigration website a useful brief explanation is found: www.imigrasi.go.id/index.php/layanan-publik/visa-kunjungan

1. Algeria 2. Angola 3. Argentina 4. Austria 5. Azerbaijan 6. Bahrain 7. Belarusia 8. Belgium 9. Bulgaria 10. Canada 11. Czech 12. China 13. Croatia 14. Cyprus 15. Denmark 16. Dominika 17. Egypt 18. Estonia 19. Fiji 20. Finland 21. France 22. Germany 23. Ghana 24. Greece 25. Hungary 26. Iceland

(Note: When sponsored by a company or direct family the single and multiple visit visa is also called business or social visa)

ABOUT THE PERMIT HOUSE The Permit House commenced operations providing the KITAP and has expanded into a full authorized formalities agency, handling all visas, permits and other documentation required by expats to stay, live and work in Indonesia. The Company founders are expats and have endured the processes first hand.

Graha Tunas Buidling Unit D, Floor 4, Jl. Warung Jati Barat 63 Jakarta 12740, Indonesia

6. Chile 7. Morocco 8. Peru 9. Vietnam 10. Equador

11. Cambodia 12. Lao PDR 13. Myanmar 14. Hong Kong 15. Macao

** May enter Indonesia from all international ports Visa exempted nationalities will be given 30 (thirty) days period of stay, NOT EXTENDABLE Visit the website mentioned above for the latest updates!

Phone : 021-79195805 / 7987589 Email : info@thepermithouse.com Website : www.thepermithouse.com

issue 155 Indonesia expat

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EXPAT LIFESTYLE

HISTORY Hans Rooseboom is a long term resident of Jakarta. He now enjoys a leisurely life, playing tennis most mornings and writing his blogs and other articles.

The Outdoor Museum of Taman Prasasti

A Window to the Past

By Hans Rooseboom

We take a trip to the Taman Prasasti cemetery in Jakarta, where Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles’ wife, along with many other famous or well-known historical figures, are laid to rest.

The grave of olivia Mariamne raffles

Among those who were buried here are Olivia Mariamne Raffles, the first wife of Thomas Stamford Raffles; the British Lieutenant-General of Java and its dependencies from 1811 to 1816; and Raffles' good friend, John Casper Leyden.

Other prominent figures include Soe Hok Gie, an Indonesian activist, and a number of generals and artists from the colonial era.

It's fascinating to observe these monuments in the context of the changing selective recollection of history. For instance, a replica of the commemorative tablet for Pieter Erberveld – accused, convicted, hanged, drawn-and-quartered, and decapitated for plotting a rebellion in 1722 – can also be found in the cemetery.

Atop the wall, his skull is impaled on a spike accompanied by a tablet with a grim warning to other potential traitors – something which certainly would not be displayed if not for the anti-colonial tie-in.

After Indonesia gained its independence, Pieter Erberveld was rehabilitated and upgraded to the status of ‘national freedom fighter’. The truth is more likely that – because of his dispute with the VOC rulers after they confiscated his land (probably illegally for personal gain) – he had become a mega nuisance. And so they got rid of him in an excessively heavy-handed way.

Don't forget that then, anyone not directly employed by the Company was viewed with suspicion and relegated to the lowest rung of the social ladder, and Pieter, though wealthy, was not a member of the club.

William Ramsey, and in return for taking her off his hands by marrying her, Raffles was rewarded with a raise and the post in Penang.

Fact or fiction, biographers make it clear that Raffles adored his first wife. And Olivia, as the Lady Governess of Java, was everpresent by his side at official occasions and gave much grace and dignity to the office.

She hosted social receptions and parties for people from all walks of life, and was never known to reject even the common man on the street – a far cry from the previous high-society-centric administration. She, however, strongly objected to chewing betel nut or smoking, a very common habit among ladies of the highest circles, and she ordered all paraphernalia of betelchewing to be banished from the palace at Buitenzorg, present day Bogor.

Olivia died on 25 November 1814 and was laid to rest in Batavia. The remains of her grave are rather unimpressive. Much more elegant and attractive is the memorial, commissioned by Sir Raffles, in the Botanical Gardens in Bogor.

John Casper Leyden, friend and mentor of Raffles, is best known for his translation into English of Sulalatus Salatin (Genealogy of Kings), more popularly known as the Malay Annals. They had met in Penang and immediately got on well. Leyden was the catalyst to Raffles' later scholarly pursuits of the history, culture and politics of the Malay world, and especially of Java.

The grave of John Casper Leyden

Among those who were buried here are Olivia Mariamne Raffles, the first wife of Thomas Stamford Raffles; the British Lieutenant-General of Java and its dependencies from 1811 to 1816; and Raffles' good friend, John Casper Leyden.

Olivia Mariamne Raffles, born Devenish, is certainly a noble (although not Dutch) occupant of the cemetery – or rather, was a noble occupant, as her original plot is now located under the offices of the mayor of Central Jakarta. Her vault was, however, moved to the park after her remains were taken to a mass grave in Tanah Kusir cemetery.

Activist Soe Hok Gie's gravestone at the Taman Prasasti Cemetery in Jakarta

T

his interesting outdoor museum houses the remains of the old cemetery built by the Dutch colonial government in 1795. The graveyards at the New Dutch Church, the inner city Portuguese Church, and the Sion Church were filling up rapidly, most likely due to yet another epidemic – and a new one was needed urgently.

The 5.9-hectare “resting place for noble Dutchmen”, a public cemetery, was established years before better-known ones in other countries; for instance, Père Lachaise, 1803 in Paris. This cemetery in Jakarta is located on the aptly named Kerkhoflaan (Graveyard Avenue), now Jl. Tanah Abang 1.

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Indonesia expat issue 155

Of the original size, 1.3 hectares remain.

In 1975, the largest part was used for the construction of the Central Jakarta Mayoralty offices; a fairly common procedure in Jakarta, it would seem, as the South Jakarta Mayoralty has also built its offices on a graveyard.

Nowadays, only 1,372 headstones and monuments remain of the original number of more than 4,000. Apart from looking at the historical stones, a walk in the park is most enjoyable. Trees provide shade and ensure that the stroll among the stones is pleasant and refreshing – walking among the memories of the deceased does indeed make one feel alive and well!

Her husband, Lieutenant-Governor Raffles, made quite a name for himself.

During the five years of his stewardship of Java, he not only changed a large number of aspects of daily life – driving on the left being one – but also abolished slave trading (not slavery itself however, as he himself had a slave he took with him on his return to England). When he met Olivia in the offices of the East India Company in London, he was a lowly clerk on a salary of £70 a year. Six days after marrying Olivia in 1805, he was appointed Assistant Secretary to the new Governor of Penang on a salary of £1,500. This spectacular ascent gave rise to rumours: Olivia, it was said, was the mistress of Raffles' superior,

The activist Soe Hok Gie had opposed the dictatorships of both Sukarno and Suharto.

He was a lecturer in sociology at the University of Indonesia and died because of the inhalation of poisonous gas hiking on Mount Semeru.

Taman Prasasti is likely under-budgeted and also rather neglected. Statues have been damaged, but luckily the broken-off pieces have been kept on or near their pedestal.

The history of Jakarta would become more vivid if the stones were arranged by specific periods, says Nirwono Joga, the writer of Museum Taman Prasasti: Metamorfosis Kerkhof Laan Menjadi Museum (Park of Memorial Stones: The Metamorphosis from Kerkhoflaan to Museum). And according to the brochure one receives at the entrance, this is being planned, together with a general drive to make the park more attractive.

Museum Tanah Prasasti Jl. Tanah Abang 1, Central Jakarta Phone: +62(0)213854060 Entrance fee: Rp.5,000

EXPAT LIFESTYLE

TRAVEL Stephanie Brookes is an Indonesian based freelance travel writer. www.travelwriter.ws

Aceh Gayo

Exploring the Central Highlands

By Stephanie Brookes | Photos by David Metcalf

Aceh is a beautiful place to explore and a trip to the Gayo highlands of central Aceh will delight you with pinestudded mountainsides, remote village life and a beautiful little town called Takengon, nestled beside a lake.

I

made my way to Lake Tawar just outside of Takengon and met a delightful man, Pak Syamsudin, who told me about his ancestral home. “I am fifth generation and a descendant of Raja Beluntara, the original king of this district.

This old house is over 150 years old,” he told me in a pensive tone. “The government did a deal with me a few years ago. They wanted my historic home and offered to move me to a nice, new modern house down the road for free if I would give them this original house, so I said why not?”

As I sat with him, I gazed up at the tall wooden beams, which were held together with five pegs and five posts. “The Dutch were here for a long time,” he said, “They built schools and gave us education. Take a look at this painting of Raja Beluntara.

The painting was actually made from a photo found in a museum in Amsterdam.”

Pak Syamsudin stood proudly next to the painting with his son and three grandchildren joining him for a photo opportunity.

A word-game challenge that continues through the night, a didong involves two rival villages and only finishes when the sun comes up. They tell jokes and challenge each other mentally, and this is reinforced by loud applause when questions are answered correctly, and even louder cheers when the answer involves a clever response.

I arrived at 10pm and left at midnight. I was told the didong would go without a break until 2am. From 2am to 6am, the verbal challenge would move to a new level and involve dancing combined with teasing and taunting. Now and again, a village elder would have to come to the rescue with an answer if the contestant was unsure. Through this rescue technique, both audience and participants engage in a deeper understanding of their history and culture. The elders, who are the judges, declare the winner based on two factors: knowledge and wisdom.

Pak Syamsudin is the keeper of the old house. He receives government funding every three months for upkeep. He told me, “No one from the government ever comes to visit. The house sits empty but I’m fine with that.” His look was one of reflection as he stared up at the vertical panels; a design feature of a King’s home. “But I do miss living here,” he added.

THE DANCE OF A THOUSAND HANDS

He told me about the good relationship his village had with the Dutch. He went on to explain that in the early 19th century, the Dutch made an agreement to honour the kingdom. Part of the deal was to provide education for the local people, which even to this day they have maintained. Many Gayo people are poets and love to compete in verbal challenges, which are held regularly in the form of competitions in the villages and neighbouring towns.

I was directed to sit on a beautiful handwoven green and white Gayo mat, as a line of thirteen very keen teenage boys shuffled into the tiny two-room house. The Saman dancers sat in a long row, excited to practice their age-old dance in front of a foreign guest. It was just a normal Monday night practice, but the room was packed family members. The boys practice three times a week and must synchronize their movements at a very fast pace, not missing a beat.

I was lucky to witness one of these wordslinging poetry competitions late one night. It was a poetry recital and part of a celebration of a local boy’s circumcision ceremony. I was told the boy’s family were

Matching the pace of the music, the dancers moved their bodies in quick succession, co-ordinating hands, arms, necks and upper bodies in time to the music while singing.

The dance reached a dramatic ending, where everyone burst into applause.

wealthy, so as part of the ceremony there was to be a didong; a poetry competition.

I was lucky enough to be invited to a Saman dance rehearsal one night in a tiny back lane in Blangkejren Village. I met Ali Muddin, a Saman dance teacher whose dance troop had toured the world and attended festivals in Kuala Lumpur, Melbourne, Berlin, Sydney and Thailand.

The dance was absolutely mesmerizing from beginning to end. It involves slapping the body and shuffling the head from side to side, as the dance gathered momentum.

The origins of this dance come from the Gayo ethnic group. It is only performed in this part of Aceh. Ali told me that once a father has taught his son the dance, he no longer performs. “They all want to learn to dance,” Ali said, “because the Saman dance is one of the most popular dances in Indonesia. Many of the boys are lured by the opportunity to travel to Jakarta and other places, and maybe like me, go overseas.”

Ali continued, “Every year a big dance competition is held in Jakarta. We keep winning the competition, and now they have banned us from competing. Can you believe it?”

M

AL

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Aceh

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Gayo Simeulue

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Malaysia

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Nias

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Aceh Gayo Province: Aceh Area: 58,376 km² Population: 4.732 million (2014) How to get there: Banda Aceh to Takengon, the central highland area of Aceh, is 314km. It's a slow and bumpy ride. The roads are in average to poor condition and the journey takes 6.5 hours.

Tour guide and driver: Miss Ferzya www.getaceh.com Accommodation: Linda’s Homestay (lindahomestay@yahoo.com)

Many grand festival events are held in the Gayo region. You can check with the tourism department and time your visit to coincide with one of these. On occasion, up to 5,000 dancers can perform the Saman dance.

I went to Aceh with a desire to travel from Banda Aceh in the North to Gunung Leuser National Park in the South. I spent one week traversing the countryside, much of it cloaked in coffee plantations, wide river systems, stunning scenery and touching encounters with the local culture.

From sitting in an old king’s house to discovering the Saman dance tradition in the small village of Blangkejren, Aceh was a trip of discovery, every day revealing a new wonder.

Travelling to lesser-known places in Indonesia with just a rough plan and an open mind will always bring a trail of surprises and delight.

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EXPAT LIFESTYLE MEET THE EXPAT Karen Davis is a NYC artist and writer

Meet Janice Girardi

Defender of the Bali Dog The Founder and Director of Bali Animal Welfare Association (BAWA) is dedicated to saving all animals in distress, especially the world’s oldest and most diverse breed of canine; the Bali dog.

By Karen Davis

according to genetic scientists. They were just the average village dogs that have been a part of Balinese life and lore for centuries.

More recently, we have seen a surge in popularity of imported breed dogs that has encouraged the establishment of cruel puppy mills and backyard breeders. Pit bull fighting is gaining in popularity, dog meat is a commodity, and the incidence of new infections and diseases like rabies is increasing. The culling of dogs through mass poisoning or worse is also taking a huge toll on the survival of the Bali dog. We are losing the pure breed.

Tell us about your background and what brought you to Bali.

I was born in Japan and was raised in the USA. I came to Bali in 1973 on my way to India. I credit most of my education to the experiences and lessons gained through travelling throughout Africa, Afghanistan, Pakistan, India and Southeast Asia, trading in handicrafts, gems, and jewellery. I spent 16 years practicing the silent, rigorous meditation of Vipassana in India, where we took vows to refrain from killing any living being, not to lie or steal. But it was the Bali dog that determined Bali was to be my home.

Have you always had a love of animals?

Yes! As a child I wanted to be a veterinarian but realize now I would not make a good vet as I hate to see animals suffering in any way.

In Africa, I studied the migration of animals.

I have always felt we have a lot to learn from all life forms, especially the animals we live amongst.

How was BAWA born?

I rescued a white Bali Kintamani dog 33 years ago, who was tied up and suffering.

I asked the owner how much to buy the dog to which he answered 100 dollars. I got him down to ten dollars and took the dog home. Over the following years I rescued many Bali dogs. In 2004, the law restricting importation of dogs to Indonesia was abolished, which led to many new problems.

With the foreign bred dogs came new diseases, and the pure strain of Bali dog, after thousands of years, was breeding with other species. The dog population grew and there were many more unwanted street dogs. There was much more traffic and less access to water. Dogs were bought and abandoned or left in cages and abused; we can see this every day in Bali. We started picking up these abused, hurt dogs and bringing them to Denpasar. People would call us when they found dogs at risk. We have seen horrible cases of abuse and neglect. BAWA was born out of need.

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Indonesia expat issue 155

In 2004 the law restricting importation of dogs to Indonesia was abolished. When that law was lifted, a lot of new problems arose.

Rabies became a new issue here in 2009.

How did BAWA deal with the problem then and what services are available now for rabies?

BAWA set up a rabies pilot programme in 2009 once dog vaccines became available on the island. Until then the government relied on killing dogs, but this did not work and rabies spread throughout the island.

Due to the success of the pilot programme, BAWA was able to work all over the island until May 2011 and managed to reduce canine rabies by 86 percent after the first programme compared to the prior year.

Vaccinating at least 70 percent of all dogs will establish the herd immunity needed to eliminate rabies. Vaccinated dogs actually can help eliminate the spread of rabies as these dogs are able to chase away an infected dog (once a dog is infected it always dies within 10 days). The answer is to continue vaccinating until rabies is eliminated.

BAWA has a 24/7 hotline for people that need help or have seen a sick or suspicious dog. BAWA trains personnel who will pick up sick animals and advise people on medical assistance and procedure.

What are the greatest challenges facing the Bali dogs?

Before 2004 we mostly had the pure Bali dogs, the oldest breed of dog in the world

We need to preserve and promote these indigenous dogs and it is achievable as long as urgent action is taken through a robust vaccination and education programme.

Our method of mass canine vaccination worked when BAWA managed the islandwide vaccination programme until mid2011; experience and expertise from around the world shows that culling is cruel and ineffective. We also need the right to export healthy Bali dogs to other countries to protect and conserve the pure Bali dog breed. It is illegal in Bali to do so at this time.

What other services does BAWA offer?

We have a 24-hour hotline for emergency rescue and treatment. We vaccinate, sterilize, rehabilitate, adopt, educate and advocate for animal welfare.

Tell me about your educational programmes.

We go into public schools as well as international schools and teach about being respectful and caring for dogs. We teach children the five freedom concepts for all animals: 1) Freedom from hunger and thirst – water and diet 2) Freedom from discomfort – proper shelter 3) Freedom from pain, injury and disease – medical prevention and treatment 4) Freedom to express normal behaviour – the setting to do so 5) Freedom from fear and distress – assessing conditions and treatment

We teach the children how to avoid being bitten. We tell them to avoid dogs they do not know, but to stay calm and still when a dog approaches. Dogs can feel our emotions and will react accordingly. There is a need to educate the youth about the value of dogs and to respect them. We also partner with the International Fund for Animal Welfare (IFAW) on a highly successful community participation-based programme working within villages.

You do all this while maintaining a full time job with your jewellery company, Janice Girardi Designs?

Yes, it’s all pretty full on! BAWA has 60 employees and the jewellery business has well over 100 staff, and many have worked for the company for over 20 years. Travelling the world, I was able to work with some of the finest stone cutters and jewellers. I love ancient Balinese techniques and although it is becoming a lost art, we still promote and encourage these designs. We now have a new line of ‘animal paw print’ jewellery sold in BAWA shops in Bali and worldwide to help raise funds and awareness. We have just opened a jewellery outlet in Centro Manado, where our shop will help promote animal welfare.

What is one of your favourite pastimes?

On weekends, I take all of my dogs to a river valley for a long hike – it is our quality family time! I also enjoy cooking for myself and my dogs. One dog likes surprising us all by jumping from outside the house in through the kitchen window and over the counter, often spilling chopped veggies all over the floor!

Thank you, Janice! To get in touch, e-mail: info@bawabali.com

If you see an injured animal in Bali, please call the hotline: 0811389004

T H E ROYA L P U R NA M A A RT SU I T E S & V I L L A S The Royal Purnama art suites and villas is a sumptuous sanctuary in the rural oceanfront setting of Purnama Beach. Recently opened, the unique location of this villa resort and its megalithic Standing Stones, slates it as the oceanfront “Stonehenge” of Bali.

Wrapped in classic contemporary architecture with effortlessly elegant interiors, this boutique art retreat rests beside the glittering black crystal sands of Pantai Purnama (Full Moon Beach) on Bali’s southeast coast, just 15km from Sanur and 16km from Ubud. The Royal Purnama is committed to serving the needs of discerning, sophisticated travellers by blending an over-12-years-of-age policy with exceptional hospitality, while expressing the philosophy of its concept through its dedicated support of the local Balinese culture and arts. Furthermore, the creators of this just-remote-enough beachside hideaway have carefully preserved the raw nature of the beautiful surroundings, offering guests a rare experience within a tranquil setting of lush plantations bordered by the Indian Ocean.

The luxurious accommodation comprises 49, stylish, one-two-&-four-bedroom villas and suites, all with their own private pools or balcony jacuzzi tubs, and a colourful décor enhanced with fine Balinese ceramics and local textiles, delicate detailing, handcrafted artistry, hi-tech functionality, and mood lighting to create the perfect ambience for a good night’s sleep.

Standing Stones restaurant, which is open to the public, offers exemplary service, semi-alfresco dining, magnificent sea views, and a gourmet menu of fresh home-style cooking, celebrating Bali’s bountiful harvest.

Other classic facilities at The Royal Purnama include the Beach Lounge, complete with its meandering swimming pool; a spa offering a range of ancient remedies dedicated to relaxation; and a wedding garden – sunrise weddings are the resort’s signature against the backdrop of the ocean waves and an ensemble of towering megalithic stones. Additionally, there is a gym, library, and boutique for the guests to immerse themselves into the Purnama experience.

The Royal Purnama art Suites and Villas offers fantastic weekend packages including Bali Marine and Safari Park tickets for Indonesian Nationals and KITAs holders. In addition, Standing Stones daily buy one get one free happy hour on Beer, Cocktails and Plaga wine make it an excellent stop to unwind in the afternoon.

The Royal Purnama, its location, design, and attention to details in décor and service is a property for guest who appreciate Bali, luxury and the beauty of natural surrounding says Melida Weber, General Manager.

“The Bali of yesterday just down the road from the Bali of today”.

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Kenneth Yeung is a Jakarta-based editor

Mama Wants Credit, Papa Wants Shares

Police have finally busted one of the most common text message scams in the book; meanwhile, the country’s biggest corruption scandal could just be swept under the carpet.

By Kenneth Yeung

with a mobile phone in Indonesia would have received a text message along the lines of: “Mama minta pulsa, tolong kirimkan pulsa Rp 50 ribu ke nomor baru 081212345678.” Which means: “Mama wants phone credit, please send Rp.50,000 to her new number, 081212345678.” Which means it’s a scam.

How do scammers make money after tricking people into transferring phone credit to their numbers? They re-sell it to vendors of electronic phone credit.

Veering off-topic here, the movie starred big-chested actress Shinta Bachir, who was named during the recent trial of Robby Abbas. Robby, you may recall from news earlier this year, ran a high-class prostitution ring that supplied models and actresses to big-spending government officials, legislators and tycoons.

When Robby was sentenced on October 26 to one year and four months in jail, the presiding judge mentioned that Shinta Bachir was on the pimp’s books for a tariff of Rp.40 million. Shinta, who did not have to attend the trial, separately denied being a prostitute but she has not attempted to sue the judge for slander.

Anyway, back to the short message service (SMS) scam. Police on November 3 arrested the alleged ringleader of a ‘mama minta pulsa’ syndicate, Effendi (36), while he was driving with his wife and son in his home province of South Sulawesi.

Effendi, who uses the aliases Lekeng and Kenz, was sent to Jakarta because most complaints about SMS scams had been filed in the national capital. Police seized the suspect’s 600-square-metre house, two cars and two motorbikes, claiming they were bought with his ill-gotten gain.

Effendi insisted the house was a gift from his wife’s parents.

Some local media reports painted a picture of Effendi as the mastermind of every single SMS scam, living a life of great riches and luxury. His minor affluence is peanuts compared to the vast wealth of politicians who embezzle and extort money, but more on them later.

Effendi said he had learned the scam from friends. He had been sending out fraudulent text messages for two years 20

Indonesia expat issue 155

Energy and Mineral Resources Minister Sudirman Said on November 16 filed a complaint against Setya to the House’s ethics council for misusing the names of the president and the vice president. Then a transcript of the meeting was released.

Setya responded by claiming he had been joking when asking for the shares. “It was just a joke, light conversation, but Maroef treated it seriously. Like when we spoke about private jets and being happy. We were just kidding around,” he told Tempo magazine.

In recent years, just about anyone

The scam has been around since at least 2010. It became so well known that in 2012 it spawned a comedy horror movie, Mama Minta Pulsa. Like most local films in this genre, it was utter garbage, although it could have been good if it had dropped the comedy and instead focused on people dying for forwarding or viewing text spam.

and fuel importing kingpin Muhammad Riza Chalid, a man who wields enormous influence among politicians. Maroef secretly recorded the meeting, which discussed Freeport’s desire to increase its contract to operate the massive Grasberg mine in Papua province from 2021 to 2041.

House of Representatives speaker Setya Novanto had requested shares from gold and copper mining giant Freeport Indonesia, ostensibly on behalf of President Joko Widodo and Vice President Jusuf Kalla.

The gang provided Effendi with daily earnings of Rp.3 million to Rp.7 million, of which he kept 75 percent and the rest was paid to his employees. and had five employees, who managed a syndicate of scammers based in the West Java capital of Bandung and the outlying town of Cianjur. In a single day, they could send about 6,000 messages, usually using spamming software called SMScaster. They had a success rate of about 1 percent.

The gang provided Effendi with daily earnings of Rp.3 million to Rp.7 million, of which he kept 75 percent and the rest was paid to his employees.

Effendi said the gang had stopped sending “mama minta pulsa” because the public had wised up to the scam. Instead, the crooks were sending messages that claimed the recipient had won a bank’s lucky draw or various prizes. Victims would be given instructions to redeem their prizes by transferring cash via ATM to false bank accounts operated by the gang. Other messages claimed “Grandma wants phone credit, she’s in hospital” or “Mum needs phone credit, she’s at the police station and using a borrowed phone.”

Police arrested more than a dozen SMS scammers in Bandung and Cianjur, and on November 21 raided Jakarta’s notorious Pasar Pramuka district, arresting 23 people who made fake identity cards and birth certificates that were used for opening bank accounts, which were sold to the syndicate.

A fake ID cost Rp.500,000, while a bank account in a fake name cost Rp.2.5 million.

The latest arrests prompted the creation of an internet meme ‘Mama Minta Pulsa, Papa Minta Saham’, the latter part (which means ‘Papa wants shares’) in reference to the mid-November revelation that House of Representatives Speaker Setya Novanto, had requested shares from gold and copper mining giant Freeport Indonesia, ostensibly on behalf of President Joko ‘Jokowi’ Widodo and Vice President Jusuf Kalla.

Setya, who has long been dogged by corruption scandals and is a Golkar Party executive, had on June 8 met at Jakarta’s Ritz-Cartlon Hotel with Freeport Indonesia's CEO Maroef Sjamsuddin

While a few people demanded Setya resign or be fired or arrested, numerous legislators and top politicians spoke out in his defence.

There are now growing calls for Jokowi to fire Sudirman because he dared to expose details of the meeting. Sudirman was quickly reported to the Corruption Eradication Commission (KPK) for allegedly inflicting losses on the state by allowing Freeport to export copper concentrate without first developing a smelter. Setya’s lawyer threatened to report the minister to police for damaging Setya’s “good” name.

Sudirman may well become a victim of the Freeport shakedown scandal, while Setya may be too influential to be brought down.

“If does go down,” says a senior newspaper editor, “he knows so many secrets of the top politicians that he could bring a lot of them down with him. So I don’t think he will be fired.”

Rather than demand immediate action, Jokowi was happy to joke about the ‘Papa Minta Saham’ meme with reporters.

Possibly he is just playing his cards close to his chest, biding his time to expose all the rotten elements of the legislature with hard evidence. Or perhaps he is powerless, fearful he may be impeached if he tries to eradicate corruption.

KPK chief Taufiequrachman Ruki, way back in 2005 when he first headed the commission, admitted that law enforcement in Indonesia can never be totally isolated from political interference. “We go after the big fish, but if the fish is too big, my commission could sink,” he said presciently.

The public will have to be satisfied with arrests of small-time crooks, such as SMS scammers, while the biggest criminals continue to laugh on golf courses and in their private jets. And our mobile phone operators will continue to send stupid spam. Get used to disappointment.

EXPAT OUTREACH CONSERVATION When she isn't travelling around Asia, Alice enjoys spending time with her golden retriever Gerard.

DY I N G T O E N T E R TA I N

By Alice Jay

Despite research that shows dolphins to be highly sensitive and intelligent, numerous facilities in Bali continue to hold the cetaceans captive for commercial gain.

W

ith India recently declaring dolphins to be ‘non-human’ persons, and banning all dolphin shows, it might come as a surprise that Indonesia is home to some of the last remaining travelling dolphin circuses in the world. Most notably, the Wersut Seguni Indonesia in Kendal, Central Java, reportedly loans and sells dolphins to entertainment facilities around the country, including Bali. In fact, besides Java, the holiday island takes an unsettlingly active role in the commercial exploitation of these highly intelligent mammals.

one of the dolphins went blind from the chlorine in the pool,” she says. “The dolphin was then taken back to Wersut Seguni Indonesia in Central Java, a 30-hour journey, and swapped for another one.”

the seapen in karimunjawa ready to receive captive dolphins for rehabilitation

The latest dolphin moneymaking enterprise to open in Bali has attracted a storm of criticism from civil society organizations, both in Indonesia and internationally. The Wake Bali Adventure Park in Keramas currently holds four dolphins in a 10 by 20-metre chlorinated pool; a practice many say could harm and eventually kill the mammals.

“Surprisingly, this complies with the highly criticized official standards created by the Ministry of Forestry in 2014, which state that captive dolphins only need a pool that is two metres deep and twice the dolphin’s length,” says Femke Den Haas, a wildlife rescue and rehabilitation coordinator, and founder of the Jakarta Animal Aid Network (JAAN).

Such substandard requirements are shocking, especially considering that dolphins are completely unsuited to life in captivity. “Dolphins are very social. In the ocean, they swim tens of miles per day with other dolphins. Inside pools, they can only swim in circles, reach no depth and can’t swim in straight lines,” Den Haas says. “They are also unable to use their sonar in pools, which is very important for communication and navigation in the ocean, as it bounces back at them from the concrete walls.”

Femke (jaan) and Lincoln O'Barry (Dolphin Project) check the dolphins held captive in Melka Hotel, Bali

“In the ocean, dolphins would be feeding on live fish, while in captivity they are fed only during work hours. They are rewarded with a piece of fish after each trick,” she continues. “This means that they are kept hungry so that they perform. The dolphin travel shows even make them jump through hoops of fire. A dolphin would only ever do this if really desperate for food.”

Den Haas visited the four dolphins just after their arrival at the Wake Bali Adventure Park last year and held a protest at the opening of the facility. “The dolphins were still very healthy at the time as they were just brought in, yet within one year

According to Den Haas, over 25 wildlife organizations have sent letters expressing their concern about the dolphins held at the Wake Bali Adventure Park to the Environment and Forestry Ministry (it is the Environment and Forestry Ministry, rather than the Ministry of Marine Affairs and Fisheries, that oversees dolphins in captivity in Indonesia) but with little success. Even a petition demanding the release of the four dolphins signed by 500,000 people failed to make any difference.

Unfortunately, this inaction is not unusual.

After the Minister of Environment and Forestry agreed to the release of the dolphins held at Bali’s Akame Dolphin Bay Restaurant in 2013, the dolphins simply ended up at the Wersut Seguni Indonesia captivity centre in Java. “The dolphins were supposed to be released, and the Minister had already agreed to their relocation to the JAAN Karimun Jawa Rehabilitation Centre,” says Den Haas. “Instead, they were taken by night to Wersut Seguni Indonesia.

To this day, nothing has been done about this.”

It is not just the Wake Bali Adventure Park that mistreats the cetacean for commercial gain. Den Haas says that aside from the numerous dolphin facilities in Java, dolphins are currently held at the Melka Hotel in Lovina and the Dolphin Lodge in

Serangan, Bali. “While the Melka Hotel keeps its dolphins inside chlorinated small pools, Serangan keeps them in the bay. The water there is dirty with a lot of rubbish and plastic, and the dolphins are confined to small cages.”

The practice of capturing and holding dolphins captive for the purpose of commercial exploitation is actually illegal under the Law on Biodiversity No. 5, 1990, which states that dolphins can only be held captive for the purpose of research or rescue. Unfortunately, many are using legal loopholes to continue the cruel practice of capturing, trafficking and exploiting the mammals.

“It’s easy to mislead the authorities as to whether the dolphins were captured or indeed rescued after they got entangled in fishermen’s nets,” Femke says. “Even if a dolphin somehow got caught in a net – which is unlikely – the Indonesian law states that they should be released back to the ocean immediately. Despite this, the Ministry of Environment and Forestry keeps allowing commercial institutions such as Wersut Seguni Indonesia to keep dolphins after reportedly being rescued.”

While the appropriate legislation and rehabilitation facilities for dolphins are more or less already in place, it seems that not many are taking notice. Let’s hope that the continued pressure from civil society organizations and more people refusing to see dolphins in captivity will encourage the government to take action and prove to the world that Bali, and Indonesia, stand against animal cruelty.

For more information about Jakarta Animal Aid Network, please visit www.jakartaanimalaid.com

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EXPAT OUTREACH WORTHY CAUSES

Paisley Things: A New Beginning and Hope for Local Artisans It’s about time to start your Christmas shopping, and you’re looking for one of a kind, local and handmade gifts, where the artisan is the winner – so where do you go? Paisley Things in Jakarta has the answer.

Story and photos by Angela Richardson

P

aisley Things was founded by pure mistake four years ago by Caroline Tobing, a French expat trained in interior design, who has been living in Indonesia for 10 years. Upon spotting a bamboo broom for sale, Tobing was immediately curious as to how the broom was made, given its complex rattan embroidery, and she purchased the item to learn more about the artisan behind for it.

Wanting to help the craftsman further by exposing his work to her community, she purchased some of his products and was surprised at how quickly she was able to sell them to friends and family members.

“I was given space in a mall for a week and sold everything again,” Tobing says about the second time she helped the artisan sell his products. As the founder of the Darius Tobing Foundation, a charity that helps improve the wellbeing of impoverished communities in Indonesia, Tobing felt the idea of creating a space to sell artisans’ work, thus keeping their art form alive, went hand-in-hand with everything her foundation stands for.

Aptly named after her husband’s late father, the Darius Tobing Foundation has opened two libraries: one in Bantul, south of Jogjakarta, and one in Cianjur, West Java. These libraries give children and their families access to books, providing them “a window to the world”, as Tobing says.

Scholarships are also provided for higher education, and the foundation supports elderly and the hard of hearing, to name but a few of their activities.

Paisley Things works alongside the Darius Tobing Foundation and helps local artisans remain in their villages, avoiding moving to big cities to make a living. More and more artisans have since come to Tobing and asked to join her initiative. Tobing looks at the skills of each artisan and the materials that they have available to work with, and then she comes up with a design.

A down payment is made for the artisan to be able to start work, and once the product is finished, Paisley things buys it and sells it to their customers in Jakarta. Artisans are now making good money with concrete work and constant orders.

Dua Tangan Cukup

"We tell our artisans to stay with their families and their land, and we allow them to keep their skills without having to move to a big city, thus keeping their heritage."

the kiln. This forced him to give up his family’s entire industry, but luckily he met Tobing. Today Asep works for Paisley Things, making beautiful engravings on olive oil bottles that are selling out fast, and he has become a manager in charge of recruiting, training and even taking on apprenticeships.

Caroline Tobing (bottom left) and some of the locally-made interior products on sale at Paisley Things

“We don’t want to compete with Indonesian handicrafts,” Tobing explains about her products, “because our items are completely different from traditional Indonesian things.”

And it’s clearly true – the interior decorating items for sale are unique, and can only be explained as Indonesia meets France, with a vintage twist. Items for sale range from jars and containers to lamps, pots, vases and brooms, birdcages, baskets, and even quilts. The store in Kebayoran Baru, South Jakarta, is immaculately decorated with exposed white brick walls, adding that certain je ne sais quoi feeling to the place.

One of the unique selling points of Paisley Things is that they do as much as they can to ensure they are reusing existing items, rather than creating more waste.

Glass bottles and jars are donated to be made into delightful and useful household trinkets like olive oil and vinegar bottles, cookie jars and vases, many of which are intricately engraved by the local artisans.

Even the shopping bags are made out of old newspapers and Tobing reassures me that they never cut trees, do not use plastic, and only use what is available. And because everything is handmade, each piece is a one of a kind.

The artisans working for Paisley Things come from all over Java. Understanding that too many villagers move to big cities in an attempt to find work, leaving behind their land and families, Tobing thinks it’s important for them to remain where they are.

“We go to them,” Tobing says. “We tell our artisans to stay with their families and their land and we allow them to keep their skills without having to move to a big city, thus keeping their heritage.”

One of Paisley Things’ artisans, Pak Asep, was born into a ceramics-making family creating earthenware the traditional way, using a kiln. Pak Asep was left with a huge problem when the government discontinued the subsidy for minyak tanah (kerosene), which Asep and his family used to power

This not-for-profit social enterprise has no plans to expand. Tobing wants to continue helping artisans without starting to push them too hard. “I don’t want to turn these people into an industry. I just want them to succeed, not to worry, and have the pride to say ‘I have a job’. They are very proud of their work.”

The beautifully-crafted household items are loved by people from all backgrounds.

During my visit to Paisley Things’ quaint shop, I met an Australian lady, Mara Soekarno, who was purchasing a gift for her son. When asked why she enjoyed shopping here, she answered, “I find the items unusual and make really nice little gifts.” Other customers include the wife of Jakarta Governor Basuki Tjahaja Purnama, Veronica Tan, to former president and still leader of the Indonesian Democratic Party of Struggle (PDI-P), Megawati Sukarnoputri.

For more information on the Darius Tobing Foundation, visit www.dtf-indonesia.com

Paisley Things Jl Bumi No 31A, Kebayoran Baru, Jakarta Phone: +62(0)2127510156 E-mail: paisley.things@gmail.com

Causes to Support from Across the Archipelago

Crowdfunding Campaign to Provide Education for 12 Students in Jatihuhu, East Bali Many of us have been fortunate enough to have received a decent education growing up, and been raised in an environment that supports self-expression and relationship-building. But for many children in East Bali, these opportunities are not accessible. For some of these kids, going to school is a serious effort, having to walk on foot for 1.5-2 hours just to reach the nearest school. With the importance of education to alleviate poverty and support social and economic development, a number of organizations and campaigns are working to address the issue.

images courtesy of global giving uk

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Indonesia expat issue 155

One of the campaigns contributing to this cause is ‘Educate 12 East Bali Village Children for a Year’, which aims to fulfil children’s rights to education. Founded in 1998, the East Bali Poverty Project (EBPP) has been working hard to improve the lives of impoverished, illiterate and isolated communities in East Bali. Since the charity was founded, they have succeeded in opening

five schools in Jatihuhu, which was the most isolated and impoverished community in Bali. Additionally, children have been teaching their illiterate parents health, hygiene, sanitation, organic farming and literacy.

The Jatihuhu Education Project Crowdfunding Campaign is now inviting people to help 12 children of Jatihuhu. Their goal is to guarantee these children, primarily girls, to not only graduate from high school, but also to prepare them to take on the role of building a healthy and sustainable community. The crowdfunding campaign requires US$540 for each student and a total of US$6,480 for all 12. The collected funds will cover all expenses, including operating costs and school facilities.

To support this campaign by making a donation, please visit www.globalgiving.co.uk/projects/support-our-educationtoday-for-a-brighter-future

ANNOUNCEMENTS

Hotel Kristal and Yayasan Harley Owners Group host charity golf tournament

Indonesia Announces Moratorium on Executions "We haven't thought about executing a death penalty with the economic conditions like this," Pandjaitan told reporters. Much needed foreign investment was still needed to help build up the country’s depleted infrastructure, he said.

Club. For the past 16 years, Hotel Kristal has hosted a charity golf tournament with the intention of raising much needed funds to support and assist the underprivileged with health and education.

The announcement was welcomed by those who had campaigned on behalf of Chan and Sukumaran to end the death penalty. In September, the lead lawyer for Chan and Sukumaran predicted the economic woes from the executions may lead Indonesia to introduce a moratorium.

INDONESIA Indonesian presidential chief of staff Luhut Panjaitan made the announcement that Indonesia would be putting a temporary ban on executions, saying the country needs to focus on fixing its economy.

The decision comes seven months after the execution of convicted Australian drug traffickers Andrew Chan and Myuran Sukumaran.

This year was no different, and 138 golfers turned up at Jagorawi Golf and Country Club in the morning to register, eat a leisurely brunch and tee off at 11.30am. The format was a six-man Texas scramble and proved ever popular, with fun novelty holes, refreshments and hot dogs available on the course.

Indonesia has executed 14 drug offenders this year, straining relations with Australia, Brazil, the Netherlands and Nigeria, which all had citizens among those shot by firing squad. In the wake of Chan and Sukumaran's execution, many Australians vowed to boycott Indonesia as a tourist destination.

Indonesia's economy expanded 4.73 per cent in the third quarter, slightly faster than the six-year low of 4.67 per cent reached in the previous quarter.

Pandjaitan didn't say when the next round of executions would take place.

Archipelago International partners with the Salam Standard to make travelling easier for Muslim guests

JAKARTA Hotel Kristal Jakarta and Yayasan Harley Owners Group have successfully hosted a joint golf tournament called the ‘Hotel Kristal and Yayasan Harley Owners Group 1st Annual Charity Golf Tournament’ on Friday, November 6, 2015 at Jagorawi Golf and Country

INDONESIA Dedicated to responding to current market trends, Archipelago International, Indonesia's fastest growing hotel management company, has recently partnered with Salam Standard, a new hospitality standard accommodating to the rise of global Muslim travellers.

Salam Standard gives information about the facilities and ‘Muslim-friendly’ services available at hotels and resorts around the world, to serve the specific accommodation needs for Muslim tourists, who spent more than US$142 billion in the tourism sector in 2014 and are expected to represent 25 percent of global travel spending in 2020, according to research from Thomson Reuters. The standard is divided into three main categories: gold, silver and bronze.

More than 60 hotels under Archipelago International are registered to Salam Standard.

31 are classed as Bronze Standard, meaning

The evening at Jagorawi Clubhouse ended with a gala dinner, entertainment with an acoustic band, door prizes of hotel, restaurant, and golf vouchers. The major sponsors were Bintang Mandiri Perkasa Drill, KOJO, and Seascape Surveys, but many more contributed generously.

All money raised will be donated to the Harley Owners Group, Kampung Kids, Cheshire Homes, Yayasan Dwituna Rawinala, and Yayasan Damai Olahraga Bali.

they provide in-room Kiblat signs, Muslim prayer carpets and a Quran on request, whilst 21 hotels meet the Silver Standard requirements further offering information on Halal restaurants in the vicinity and no-alcohol protocols in the hotel rooms’ mini-bars. At the highest level, 16 of Archipelago International's hotels meet Gold Standards, including Quest Hotel Surabaya, Aston Anyer Beach Hotel and The Alana Solo, thus offering the most accommodating options for travelling Muslims.

“Indonesia has the highest Muslim population in the world, making them also our largest segment of customer to our hotels in Indonesia. We understand it can be cumbersome for travellers to hunt and filter through information to find the best hotel for them and their family and their religious needs. We hope this new standard will help to make the search easier,” said Tenaiya Brookfield, Archipelago International VP of Sales & Marketing.

issue 155 Indonesia expat

23

* Answers in the next edition!

LIGHT ENTERTAINMENT

CROSSWORD

He Who Laughs Last In the winter of 1990, I was working in real estate in London with my business partner, Steve Collins. One of our clients, a wealthy Indian named Jamal, entrusted us with the sale of nine houses in Hampstead, and over a few weeks we put a lot of effort into showing the properties. Eventually we sold the houses and after the transaction was complete we went to see Jamal in his office to arrange for our commission payment. Times were very hard for us then, and to say that we really needed the money would be a huge understatement.

We sat in front of Jamal’s desk and waited impatiently for him to arrive. He owed us the equivalent of about US$60,000 and all our problems were solved.

Eventually Jamal arrived, resplendent in silk suit and tie, and took his position in the huge chair behind his desk. We smiled at him, expecting him to pour praise upon us for selling his houses so quickly in very unfavourable economic conditions, but his opening words stunned us. “I’m not going to waste your time gentlemen,” he said. “I’m not going to pay you.”

Steve and I looked at each other. “Why not?”

Steve asked when he had recovered sufficiently from the shock.

“Because I don’t have to,” he said.

We looked at each other again. “But we have a contract...” I stuttered.

Jamal smiled smugly. “I know all about the contract. Get yourselves a good lawyer and sue me if you can afford it.”

Next thing I knew we were on the street outside in the freezing cold, without even enough money for a cab fare home. Many and varied expletives escaped our lips as we came to terms with what had just happened. We looked at Jamal’s Bentley parked across the street. I wanted to smash the windows and set fire to it but Steve calmed me down. “You’ll just get yourself arrested. Let’s make him pay some other way,” he said grimly, and produced a handful of letters from inside his jacket. “We know where he lives.” I grabbed the letters and looked at them. Somehow, at some point during our ejection from Jamal’s office, Steve had found the time and the presence of mind to grab the pile of letters that had been sitting on his desk. “We’ll have the last laugh,” he

By Eamonn Sadler

said. “I don’t know how, but we’ll get him in the end.” I took some solace in the thought of revenge as we bowed our heads into the howling wind and started the long cold walk to the tube station.

As a result of Jamal’s refusal to pay us, we were forced to leave our nice four bedroom rented house in Uxbridge in North London and prise the boards off the windows of Steve’s previously repossessed two bedroom townhouse in the East End. We moved in and officially became squatters, with no electricity, no gas, no phone and no hope. We had sold our cars many months before to buy food and pay bills and now we were stuck in a damp and neglected house, wrapped in blankets against the fierce cold and eating nothing but baked beans on toast cooked on a borrowed camping stove outside the back door.

One day we woke up about midday and Steve, the genius, had perfected a plan for revenge while he slept. Using the letters he had taken on impulse from Jamal’s desk as proof of ID, we would get all the utilities – electricity, gas, phone – switched on in his name and rack up some enormous bills for him until everything finally got cut off. It wouldn’t get us any of the money we were owed, but at least we would know that his cheating us had cost him a considerable amount of money, plus we would have a warm place to stay until we got back on our feet.

Everything went smoothly, and a few days later we had every light in the house on round the clock, an electric bar fire on full blast in the living room, the central heating on max, every burner on the gas stove burning brightly, plus gas oven on full and oven door open. It was like a sauna in that house for weeks. As planned, everything eventually got cut off for non-payment, and as the final coup de gras, every night for a week before we left the house we called gay sex chat lines in the US and left the phone of the hook all night. I don’t know if we cost him anywhere near US$60,000, but I bet it was close. I wish I could tell you I hope the ‘gay’ thing didn’t cost him his marriage, but I can’t. It’s Karma baby, and he deserved everything he got. He nearly cost us everything.

IS MADE POSSIBLE BY: Indonesia expat issue 155

DOWN 1. Tired and bored (5) 2. Girl’s name – thrush (5) 3. Hearty congratulation (5,4,4) 4. Have initial trouble (as a baby?) (6) 5. Testy (5-8) 6. In prison? (6) 7. Broken remains (4) 12. Repulsive (4) 14. Eject from mouth (4) 15. Scottish boy’s name (6) 16. Royal house (6) 17. Give – convey (6) 19. Remains of corn (5) 20. Poetically, for ever (5)

ANSWERS OF ISSUE 154

ACROSS — 1. Mad House 5. Hang 9. Lucid 10. Asinine 11. Indiscretion 13. Mayhem 14. Mumble 17. Richter Scale 20. Squalid 21. Actor 22. Apex 23. Rehearse DOWN — 1. Mole 2. Decency 3. Old Wives Tale 4. Snatch 8. Hire Purchase 6. Alibi 7. Green Tea 12. Ambrosia 18. Chute 16. Fridge 15. Bolster 19. True

Dear God, please kill anyone who throws their rubbish here

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Eamonn has lived and worked in Indonesia for over 20 years but doesn’t understand the country at all and now realises that he never will. He is an entrepreneur, businessman and writer, lead singer with expat band Xhibit A and the owner and operator of The Jakarta Comedy Club and The Bali Comedy Club.

24

Across 1. Vertical take-off aircraft (4,3) 8. Increase (7) 9. Transfer (to regions) (7) 10. Dog – old land register (7) 11. Nickname for Miller (5) 13. Some achieve it; it’s thrust upon others (9) 15. Practice of inducing sleep-like state (9) 18. Italian food (5) 21. Wimp (7) 22. Flying personnel (7) 23. Aid (7) 24. River channel at sea level (7)

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HUMOROUS OBSERVATIONS Simon lives vicariously through himself

A

nd so we find ourselves moving and gathering momentum towards the festive period. Indeed, no less an authority than the Pope himself has just chimed in on the subject of this year’s yuletide, the official papal verdict being that it's going to be a, “charade,” given recent world events. Certainly sounds like a few Christmases I’ve spent before. Well thanks for that, Francis my old mate. Why don't you just stick to your job, eh? Just wish everybody a Happy Christmas, instead of bequeathing us an atmosphere as noxious as that left by a fat uncle who has polished off too many Brussels sprouts at Christmas lunch.

DAMP SPIRITS

Thankfully though, here in Indonesia things are looking up somewhat as the daily likelihood of precipitation is finally above diddly-squat. Yes, the rains have arrived, and not a moment too soon, as the El Niño effect, coupled with unbridled avarice and stupidity, have conspired to ensure that a cloud of choking smoke the size of the former Soviet Union has been released over Southeast Asia.

Praise the Lord, for the rains have finally arrived.

By Simon Pitchforth

Apparently however, according to the current (and alas also a previous) vice president, only half the country being on fire doesn’t actually constitute a national disaster. The half that was on fire not being the half that he lives in may also have been a factor here. Although you would be a fool and a communist to point out that if imperial Java had been blanketed in smoke, then we may have seen rather less foot dragging on the issue.

Thankfully, the apocalyptic flames are now finally being quenched and the country can reflect on a truly appalling year, even by its own dismally low standards. Indeed, Indonesia’s fires have pushed atmospheric carbon to levels not seen on this planet for over 2 million years (400 ppm to be precise) and ended up releasing some 1 billion tonnes of the stuff over poor old Borneo and Sumatra. Some even claim that this may have actually pushed the entire planet over a runaway global-warming tipping point. In this context, I'm not sure that even January’s inevitable torrents will be able to wash away a sin so apocalyptically awful.

And so Indonesia's farmers try to pick up the pieces and tend to their cracked, blistered plots as the rain ramps up through the gears and the drought subsides. Here in the terminal urban terminus of the Indonesian capital, it's been a bit of a novelty to use one's umbrella again after nine long, hot months.

City dwellers generally have a somewhat ambivalent relationship with rain, and I'm sure that by the middle of January, the deluges will really start to grate once more.

We’ll soon be arriving at work looking like drowned baboons, while the country's notoriously porous ceilings spring leaks and turn to sodden cardboard, and clothes start smelling like an ojek driver's socks because it's taken three days for them to dry.

And that's without mentioning far more serious issues such as landslides and biblical flooding. God knows how the city's putative, currently-under-construction subway stations will cope with all of this. It'll be like SeaWorld down there.

One image from a previous year’s flooding is forever seared into my brain and involved the rather ludicrous tableau of a housemate and myself in our underpants at 3am frantically bailing rainwater out of our living room with empty Pizza Hut spaghetti trays. Indeed, previous wet seasons have seen my landlubber shipmates and our dodgy leaking ceilings recreating those scenes from World War II movies in which the German U-boat dives too

Indonesian progeny as a punishment for its rapaciously corrupt excesses and poor stewardship of its Edenic inheritance? Will we be able to pull together as a species and tackle these issues head-on? Or will the new Star Wars flick win out in the ongoing battle for hearts and minds?

deeply in order to escape the Allied depth charges and the rivets start popping out followed by jets of seawater and general Nazi sturm und drang.

In Jakarta, the rains can turn houses into sewage processing plants, half-hour journeys into Homerian odysseys and trips to the local market into mud-spattered trench warfare. Seasonal affective disorder may well be upon us folks, and that's sad.

Hopefully though, having just gone through an El Niño/ man-made environmental catastrophe, Indonesia will be spared serious flooding this year. Jakarta's preparedness for such an eventuality, while still sketchy, has hopefully been booted a few rungs up the mission-critical ladder from previous efforts. A few years back, I recall the city administration proudly boasting of having purchased a whopping 10 rubber dinghies.

Thankfully, 26,000 infiltration wells are currently being dug across the capital for run-off water to drain into.

Indeed it's a false economy not to invest in these kinds of measures, as during the previous rainy season, Rp.3 trillion in losses were inflicted in a single week in Jakarta.

Such losses, however, be they the result of forest fires or flooding, are to be born by the public, while investment designed to mitigate such disasters would have to come out of government budgets earmarked for palm grease and pied-à-terres.

Tsunamis, landslides, fires, haze, droughts, floods: has mother nature, so generous in blessing this country with so much bountiful fertility, now turned her back on her

As the writer Chris Isherwood once said, the rich world has “retired to live inside [its] own advertisements. Like hermits going into caves to contemplate.” And there's a sense in which environmental concerns are now the preserve of Facebook feeds that we lap up before signing an online petition with brows suitably furrowed and chowing down on another bowl of palm oil-laced noodles.

Clicktavism they call it.

So, will we be able to save Jakarta from being regularly waterboarded by the Almighty? Storming the ramparts of parliament in KPK-logoed combat fatigues and kicking the whole rotten bunch out on their exquisitely tailored arses would be a good start perhaps.

Maybe the future will look something like the one predicted by the late, legendary Kurt Vonnegut in the pages of his Darwinian prophecy of a novel Galapagos. In the book, the process of evolution by natural selection rounds decisively upon our capacious human brains. Brains which have brought so much suffering and environmental calamity to the world are depicted as having little intrinsic survival value, and are thus portrayed as an evolutionary deadend in the book. In Vonnegut's vision, homo-sapien grey matter thus starts to shrink and bodies begin to grow seal-like flippers as we return to the blissful ignorance of life's oceanic cradle.

A little far-fetched? Perhaps, although just maybe the seemingly diminishing cerebral capacities of many power wielders are an early embodiment of the truth of Vonnegut's thesis. Maybe their descendants will already be equipped with flippers during the Jakarta floods of the future. And there we were thinking that regional devolution referred to politics. Now pass me a bucket of fish please.

the wet season can turn houses into sewage processing plants, half-hour journeys into Homerian odysseys and trips to the local market into mud-spattered trench warfare. issue 155 Indonesia expat

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If you want your event to be posted here, please contact +62 (0) 21 719 5908 or e-mail: events@indonesiaexpat.biz

EVENTS

JAKARTA

of the attendees and explain to the group the type of referrals you would like to receive. JBN professional networking sessions are from 7-9am every Tuesday at Mamma Rosy, Kemang and every Thursday at Mercantile Athletic Club, WTC, Sudirman. RSVP: info@jbnetworkers.com

Arts & Culture

Landscape Anomaly: Eko Nugroho’s Solo Exhibition 22 November – 21 December 2015

One of the most renowned artists in Indonesia, Eko Nugroho will be showcasing his masterpieces in the form of murals, sculptures, and installations. What is even more interesting is that all of the murals and installations were created on-site to show his response towards the immediate space. His works are inspired by comic visuals/aesthetics and are rich with social critique. For more information, please visit www. salihara.org

Djakarta Warehouse Project 2015 11–12 December 2015 One of the most anticipated music festivals is finally arriving, as Djakarta Warehouse Project br i ng s some of t he big ge s t international names in dance music. The two-day event will feature artists such as Axwell & Ingrosso, DJ Snake, James Jones, Kaskade, Major Lazer, Oliver Heldens, Porter Robinson (Live), Rehab, and also Tiesto.

The event w ill take place at JIEXPO Kemayoran, Jakarta.

For more information visit www. djakartawarehouse.com/tickets Charity

Clean Bandit Live 8 December 2015 English electronic group Clean Bandit will be saying hello to Jakarta for the very first time this December. Known for their hit single ‘Rather Be’, the pop band will be taking over the stage at Gandaria City Mall. Originating from Cambridge, Grace Chatto, Milan Neil Amin-Smith, Jack Patterson, and Luke Patterson formed the band in 2009. In February they took home the prestigious Grammy award for Best Dance Record. This event is presented by Marygops Studios and 7K ings Enter tainment.

Ticket price: Rp.785,000. www. marygops.com

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Indonesia expat issue 155

18–20 December 2015 Sma r t K id s A sia Indonesia br ings fa m i lies t oget her t o gain more k nowledge about education, including institutions, insurance and banks supporting education, as well as technology and innovations in the field of education. The exhibition will see a series of exciting events, including smart health, where parents and children are encouraged to build a healthy foundation for their wellbeing; sma r t edu, which promotes innovative education systems and resources; and smart family, which cares for the development of children and their futures. Guests also get free entry, ice cream and can explore the mini 4-D cinema.

The exhibition will take place in Jakarta Convention Center. For more information please visit http://smartkidsasia.co.id

Dine a la Sultan Charity 9 December 2015 Sezai Zorlu and Wisma Chesire Charity Wine Dinner is supporting people with disabilities by holding a charity dinner. With a touch of turkey as the dress code, guests will be welcomed by a cocktail reception, which will be followed by a charity wine dinner. The event will be accompanied by Turkish Tabla and Oud. For more information please contact the following: E-mail charity. turkuaz@gmail.com. Phone: +62(0)217279 5846/53

Wedding Celebration Festival

11 December 2015 Reminisce the ‘60s to the ‘90s in the most spectacular conclusion to our year. Through this year’s theme of ‘Exclusive Concert: From the Old Time Best’, Jakarta Dekade 2015 will feature local musicians and artists such as Vina Pnaduwinata, Titi DJ, Koes Plus, Harvey Malaihollo, Reza Artamevia, and Rick Price. The event will take place at Kartika Expo, Balai Kartini. For more information visit http://jakarta. dekadeconcert.com/2015

Asia’s Largest Educational Kids Fair

Christmas & New Year

Exhibitions

Jakarta Dekade

Silver Christmas

4–6 December 2015 This festival is for those of you who will soon be saying “I do”. More than 300 wedding organizers from Jakarta and Bali will try to help you visualize your dream wedding. The exhibition will also expose a number of bridal gown designers, photographers, catering companies and other wedd i ng vendor s. Wedd i ng packages, wedding venues and also honeymoon packages will also be made available at this event which will take place at Jakarta Convention Center. For more information please visit www.weddingcelebrationfestival. com

White Glam Festive Season 24–31 December 2015 This December, Grand Kemang Hotel Jakarta presents ‘White Glam’, which celebrates the Christmas. On Christmas Eve, guests can join in a five-course set menu dinner, which includes Gluehwein as a welcome drink, after-dinner coffee or tea and chocolate souvenirs. The next day, the culinary journey continues as guests are welcomed to join in a Christmas Day brunch, where they will be ser ved a variety of Eu r op e a n c old c ut s a nd cheese, roast turkey and prime beef, including free flow juices, iced lemon tea and coffee/tea.

Children can also have some fun by watching movies and gaining free access to the swimming pool.

On New Year’s Eve, the hotel invites guests to say farewell to 2015 with special performances

by Ba r r y L i k u m a huw a a nd friends. For further information a nd reser vat ions, plea se t o c o n t a c t + 6 2 (0) 2 1 7 1 9 4 1 2 1 ext. 8012 or e-mail intouch@ gk.mesahotelsandresorts.com

1–31 December 2015 The Park Lane Jakarta is bringing the festive spirit this December with a memorable Christmas dinner and brunch. At RIVA Grill Bar & Terrace, guests can bring their family and loved ones to enjoy a four-course set dinner menu. On Christmas, they can also have brunch and enjoy an international buffet, including turkey, smoked ham, pr ime beef and delicious desserts. To welcome 2016, guests get to join the midnight countdown at Riva by the Pool. For more information please contact reservations: +62 (0)218282000 ext. 2113

Bake Your Own Cookies at Pullman Jakarta Indonesia 21 November–12 December 2015 This holiday season, Pullman Jakarta Hotel is incorporating the joyful spirit of Christmas into an ultimate baking experience. For those of you who are planning to make the most of their upcoming Christmas celebration, then take this opportunity to learn how to bake cookies, from chocolate, vanilla, blueberr y and other delicious f lavours. Participants joining this class will also get the chance to learn from experts, as the Executive Pastry Chef will personally be taking over the class to show everyone how it is done.

For more information please visit www.pullmanjakartaindonesia. com Networking

Jakarta Business Networkers Make the right connections to help develop and grow your business over bre a k fa s t . At Ja k a r t a Business Networkers (JBN), all attendees are encouraged to help other attendees by exchanging referrals and introducing them to their target audience. JBN is all about helping you grow your business. Promote your business, personal brand or portfolio each week to the rest

BALI Music

DJ Yella N.W.A (Straight Outta Compton) 3 December 2015 Ba li is introducing a new entertainment space, S.K.A.I Beach Club (Padma Resort) and what better way to celebrate the event than with DJ Yella of N.W.A. Born and raised in California, USA, DJ Yella has embarked on a long journey throughout his music career. After retiring from the music industry to pursue a career in directing, he returns to music by releasing a new album, ‘West Coastin’. This December, the DJ will be taking over Bali and you will not want to miss it. For more information, please visit: www. cybergroove.biz

and Industry (IFCCI), the ‘Human Roots’ exhibition will feature 15 magnificent organic sculptures made from 200-year-old teak tree roots from Java by the French contemporary artist, Mickael Obrenovitch. The exhibition, which also supports and raises awareness of the importance of preser v ing Indonesian ra inforest s, w ill spread the message of the relationship between nature and civilization.

The exhibition will take place at Sofitel Nusa Dua Beach Resort.

For more information, visit www. obrenovitch.com

BORNEO Photography

Borneo Adventure Photo Tour

Bali World Music Festival 1–6 December 2015 Set to take place at Arma Museum Ubud Bali, this music festival aims to bring an array of ethnic music straight to the hear ts and souls of its festival-goers.

Renowned musicians such as guitarist Dewa Budjana, Nicolas Meier & Gamelan Jegog, and the World Peace Trio will be entertaining audiences with an eclectic mix of ethnic music. For more information call +62(0)361 285196.

Arts & Culture Human Roots Exhibition by Mickael Obrenovitch 4 September–4 December 2015 Presented by the Indonesian French Chamber of Commerce

15–22 March 2016 Wa nt t o l e a r n m o r e a b o u t p h o t o g r a p h y? Wa nt t o s e e orangutans in Borneo? Join us for Borneo Adventure Photo Tour March 15-22, 2016. You will have the opportunity to photograph a variety of wildlife in the Borneo jungle, including a visit to an island to see the orangutans by private invitation. We cruise up the river visiting Dayak villages, enjoy a special performance of Dayak music and dance and photograph the stunning sunset s in the wetlands as the native hornbills sweep across the sky. Read what others have to say and book now at www.davidmetcalfphotography. com

Ubud, Bali – A new photo gallery has opened in Ubud, Bali. Come and see a pictorial wonderland of Indonesian images. Open 7 days week. David Metcalf Photography – www.taksuphotogallery.com

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INDONESIA EXPAT DIRECTORY

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issue 155 Indonesia expat

27

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L o ok i ng t o r ent b e d r o om .

30-year-old petroleum engineer, American male, looking to lease single room for cheap and maybe some roommates would be good too. In Jakarta. Am flexible with location. Please email me any leads tmathe2@gmail.com

Jakarta Property

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House for Lease. Jl.Cendrawasih 2 Komplek Deplu Ga nd a r ia Selatan (near ITC Fatmawati) Jkt Sel. 200m2 land, 1-1/2 story, Half furnished, 3 bedroom, 2 extra/studio room, nice garden, large deck space, 24hrs security, Rp.200 Million/year, Min. 1 yr .

Text : +62(0)8111770721 (Anton) or e-mail: suriantohari@gmail. com for more info.

Beautiful house for REN T in Kemang. Available now. Four large bedrooms two with ensuite, large study room, four bathrooms, large kitchen, brand new fridge, bar in living/dining area. Large spacious liv ing and dining areas w ith high ceilings. Swimming pool.

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Servant's quarters: 2 bedrooms with furniture. New washing machine, iron and ironing board.

Garage and carport for up to four vehicles. Brand new security lighting and electricity. Some of the cleanest water standards in Jakarta. Good quiet street, away from areas which regularly flood.

Price: USD $2,900 per calendar month. NEGO. Rental term: NEGO. Optional staf f. K IM: +62(0)81238759351/ BRANDON: +62(0)811 1002940. E -ma il: thekenangahouse@gmail.com.

Web: www.kimberlydhyani.wix. com/kenanga House at Jl. Kemang Utara IV. Land 800 sqm. Build abt 500 sqm.

Pool. 3 bedroom. 1 studyroom.

Big dinning room. Big garden.

Garage and carpark abt 10 cars.

Nice, quiet and safe area. Contact +62(0)8161813804.

For rent 300 houses at Kemang, Cipete, Cilandak, Jeruk Purut, Pondok Inda h. Big ga rdens, swimming pools, USD 2,000 5,000. Phone: +62(0)816859551 or +62(0)8170093366

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Expat looking for someone to share house. Upper f loor of town house, Jl. Kemang Utara.

2 bedrooms with big wardrobes Own bathroom. Housekeeping 6 days a week. Shared living room (shared with one person).

24 hours security at the entrance Extra room for guests. Big garden, lot's of green, big swimming pool.

All for IDR 7 million per month.

Available from January. E-mail: sakesantema@gmail.com

Semi-furnished House for rent.

The house is located at Jl Jati Padang Poncol V III, Pasar M i ng g u . It i s a t wo s t or y house and has 4 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, clean kitchen, staff kitchen, staff living area, security living area, space to easily park two cars, pool, garden, terrace, covered bbq area, etc. Must visit to appreciate this beautiful newly renovated property, asking price USD2,300/month direct from owner call +62(0)8111632682 2 f loor house for rent.

Specifications: 3 bedroom (1 large / 2 regular size), 1 extra bedroom for maid, 4 bathroom 1 living room, kitchen + hot water for dishes and laundry, 24 hours security guard, nice compound and great neighbourhood, easy a cces 10 minutes f rom TB Simatupang Toll Gate. Very close to High Scope / Pejaten Village Mall. The house is behind Antam Building. Asking price $1,100/month (negotiable).

For pictures please contact my number : +62(0)85697385398 or +62(0)81380422022 (call/ SMS/Whatsapp)

Cluster for sale in Joglo - Jakarta Barat​, land 82 sqm, building 68 sqm. Price 1,4 Billion Rupiah.

Contact: +62(0)8111881214 Services Spanish Tutor: Learn Spanish at your place with a DELEcertified examiner from Spain.

Most of my students come from International Schools (JIS and BSJ). Please call me (Raúl) +62(0)82110502786 E-mail: unascartas@yahoo.com Bahasa Destination – Provides the Indonesian language course programmes for expats (private).

Free Tr ia l. Ava ilable f rom Monday-Sunday. Please call/ text/whatsapp : 0812-1011-2322 (Puspita) or visit the website: www.bahasadestination.com

For sale collection gemstone blue sapphire srilanka 7,46 crt NH and zambrut columbia 9,36 crt.

Gold diamond ring certificate.

And jade burma stone. Serius b u y e r. C o n t a c t b y o w n e r : +62(0)81318747770 For sale a collection of ceramics china. urn white and blue plate, Imari Japanese and Chinese painting and Indonesian painting.

Contact: +62(0)81905234734

3 8 ' Un i f l i t e .C u r r e nt l e g a l papers. Upper lower steering.

Cockpit. Screened Fly-bridge.

3 cabins. Shower/head. Hull professionally re-glassed below waterline. Overhauled DDs. 6/71TI 350HP . Onan. Michigan wheels. Solid sea boat. Most electronics, radar, depth/fish sounder. knots 18 cruise WOT 21. Lying Marunda. Price IDR 1 Billion. +62(0)81314002059. kunang2000@gmail.com For Sale: Decathlon Inesis golf kit in (graphite) with original driver replaced by a Taylor Made driver, barely used, good as new condition, perfect for beginners!

The set includes: 2 woods (one driver Taylor Made r5 XL and one wood 3), 1 Hybrid, 5 iron 5, 6,7,8,9, 1 pitching wedge, 1 sand-wedge, 1 putter, 1 golf bag, 1 travel bag. The set was originally purchased at 300 Euros in France, and for sale at only 180 Euros (IDR 2,600,000). Pick up at 1Park Residences, Gandaria 1, Jakarta Selatan. If interested, you may contact Pascal via SMS/ Whatsapp: +62(0)8111932159 or e-mail: bourcher@gmail.com Ikea Children’s bed for sale.

Model : KRITTER. bed frame with slatted bed base. Mattress for junior bed VYSSA VIBKA. Pillow + quilt. 2 sets of bedlinen (quilt cover and pillowcase) Rp. 2,000,000. Contact : 0821 1045 9450 (sms or whats’App) or dcullerier@hotmail.com For Sale. A top quality 2 bedroom + Study Balinese contemporer style villa in Jimbaran with 180 degree view of the harbour and

the mountain. Lush tropical garden, sw imming pool, outdoor dining and lounge.

Louisa +62(0)81238966795/ WA +61432653591/louisa2912@ yahoo.com

Unique present: the kapal tuktuk modernized. A steamboat running on a tealight. See our website for more info www.waxinebootje.com Selling per 10 pieces.

Looking for work My name is Ibu Djiawaliyah, I’m looking for a job as a housekeeping, I have experience to work with British Family. Please contact me +62(0)85782235729 Jobs Available Science Tutor needed for year 10 student at the British School of Jakarta! If you are interested ple a se do c ont a c t u s at M. +62(0)82112108694 Automotives Car for Sale: Almost new TOYOTA RUSH TRD SPORTIO, Manual Colour: white Year: Oct 2013 Condition: Excellent. Expat single owner. Toyota official service record Mileage: only 11,000 KM Tax: Paid till Oct 2016 Expected Price : IDR 180 million Contact: +62(0)81314962860. meharwal@gmail.com

Bali

Automotives Suzuki Grand Vitara Jeep 2000cc automatic. Grey colour. Built in 2010 but only 52,000km and in very good condition. Serviced only at Suzuki dealerships. IDR 180,000,000. Call +62(0)813 39158852

Pelabuhan Ratu Property

Discover Vi l la Gamrang.

Experience our hospitality and the complete privacy of your own beach house. Villa Gamrang (Cisolok beach, 4 hours’ drive from Jakarta) is designed to offer guests a wonderful and luxurious holiday with beautiful and natural surroundings. Stylish interior, several outdoor terrace’s, sea view, spacious garden, swimming pool, 4 bedrooms and 3 bathrooms, complete kitchen, cable television, internet (WiFi). Idyllic place for couples or one or two families.

Staff and in house catering avai lable. At tractive prices starting from IDR1,800,000 per night. Most of our guests visit us again. Reservations www. villagamrang.nl or just mail us at villagamrang@gmail.com

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