Indonesia Expat - Issue 170

I S S U E N O . 17 0 | 2 7 J U L Y – 9 A U G U S T 2 0 1 6

J A K A R TA • J AVA • B A L I • L O M B O K • K A L I M A N TA N • S U M AT R A • S U L AW E S I • W E S T PA P U A

W W W. I N D O N E S I A E X PAT. B I Z

The Doomed British Fort of Bengkulu

Meet Asok Kumar of DB Schenker Kopi Luwak: The Evil Truth

Amazon’s Plans in Indonesia Mormon Missionaries

who is

ahok?

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Indonesia expat issue 170

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Letter from the Editor

Editor in Chief

Angela Richardson angela@indonesiaexpat.biz

Marketing Consultant

Dear Readers,

Edo Frese edo@indonesiaexpat.biz

Editorial Assistant

Caranissa Djatmiko letters@indonesiaexpat.biz

Sales & Advertising

Dian Mardianingsih (Jakarta) Ervina Tambun (Jakarta) Wahyu Atmaja (Bali) ads@indonesiaexpat.biz

Distribution & Admin

Juni Setiawan admin@indonesiaexpat.biz

Finance

Lini Verawaty finance@indonesiaexpat.biz

Indonesia’s e-commerce market and talks to some experts in this field. If Amazon does indeed set up shop in Indonesia, will they become the dominant player within five years?

We hope you’ve had some time to rest and recuperate over the Eid al-Fitr holidays!

We’ve got some great reads to land you softly back down to reality, starting with a feature story on Jakarta’s governor ‘Ahok’. Who is the man that’s been hitting the headlines on a daily basis? And why do people have such strong and oftentimes contrasting feelings towards him?

New contributor Tommy Prayoga explores.

Contributors

Karen Davis Tim Hannigan Mark Heyward Alice Jay Tommy Prayoga Hans Rooseboom Ani Suswantoro Ketut Krisna Wijaya Kenneth Yeung

Just before the holidays, we were hit with the news that American e-commerce giant Amazon plans to enter Indonesia with a hefty war chest of US$600 million. Ketut Krisna Wijaya asks what this will mean for existing players in

In Lifestyle, we take a closer look at the world’s most expensive coffee, Kopi Luwak. Alice Jay speaks to Bali Animal Welfare Association (BAWA) and learns the horrifying truth behind the production of these beans that due to growing demand has resulted in a cruel battery cage system for the poor, nocturnal civet cats.

located on the southwest coast of Sumatra.

This doomed station claimed the lives of many an expat at the time, including three of Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles’ four young children due to its harsh climate.

We also meet Mormon missionaries, the Bye Bye Plastic Bags girls, and the President Director of global logistics giant DB Schenker.

This and more, we do hope you enjoy this issue!

Tim Hannigan is back this issue with another fascinating history lesson, this time in the forgotten imperial outpost of Bengkulu,

Angela Richardson

Editorial Enquiries

letters@indonesiaexpat.biz

Subscriptions

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Events

events@indonesiaexpat.biz

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PT. Koleksi Klasik Indonesia Alamanda Tower 25th floor Jl. T.B Simatupang kav 23–24 Jakarta 12430 T: 021 2965 7821 F: 021 2965 7821 Office hours: 09.00–17.00 Monday–Friday Indonesia Expat is published bi-weekly by PT. Koleksi Klasik Indonesia. Opinions Expressed in this publication are those of the writers and the publisher does not accept any responsibility for any errors, ommisions, or complaints arising there from.

No parts of this publication can be reproduced in whole or in part, in print or electronically without permission of the publisher. All trademarks, logos, brands and designs are copyright and fully reserved by PT. Koleksi Klasik Indonesia.

Letters from the Readers

Can tobacco tax be used wisely?

The news that Indonesia is aiming to bring in almost Rp.140 trillion in tobacco tax (US$10 billion) in the current fiscal year could be said to be both encouraging and a concern. On the face of things such an amount, if put to the greater good of society, could prove to be very beneficial. Indonesia could, in theory at least, use large portions of this money in order to improve its infrastructure, provide education and healthcare for its citizens, feed and clothe the poor, and generally help to improve the lot of its citizens at large.

However, two major concerns spring to mind. Firstly, the fact that cigarettes are sold here for as little as US$1 per pack means an awful lot of ‘smoker coughing’ at the very least is likely to be prevalent.

The associated sicknesses and diseases that cigarettes and smoking

cause will invariably end up costing the country a large chunk of that envious-looking tax figure, and in real terms may even end up exceeding it when the accumulated costs of medical care and lost productivity are factored in.

The second cause for concern regarding the tobacco tax is trust in its fair distribution and allocation by the authorities. Rightly or wrongly, a feeling persists on some levels that Indonesian authorities cannot always be relied upon to be transparent and to act for the greater good. There is a widespread concern that although matters have improved over the past decade or so, corruption is still endemic within the archipelago and thus the majority of the tobacco tax won’t find its way to those who need it most.

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David Nesbit

On The Cover Basuki Tjahaja Purnama (Ahok)

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Issue 170

Contents 06 08 10 12 14 15 16 18 19 20 22 23 25 26 27 28

Feature Story Who is Ahok?

Expat Business Featured Will Amazon Create an E-commerce Apocalypse for Indonesia's Local Players?

Business Profile PT Schenker Petrolog Utama: Winning Hearts and Minds

Expat Lifestyle Meet the Expat Melati and Isabel Wijsen Food and Drink The Terrible Truth behind Your Cup of Cat Poo Coffee Travel Cangkuang Temple History British Bengkulu: A Forgotten Imperial Outpost

Expat Outreach Meet the Expat The Missionaries

Scams in the City Fashion Police Environment Deforestation: Loggers Not to Blame Worthy Causes Hub for Cyclist: Cycling for a Greener City Announcements Observations Writing the Indonesian Experience Events Business Directory Classifieds

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WHO IS

AHOK ?

SUPPORTERS AND PSYCH EXPERTS WEIGH IN ON JAKARTA’S CONTROVERSIAL GOVERNOR

BY TOMMY PR AYOGA

Critics call him impulsive and crass, while supporters think he’s a no-nonsense political saviour. Here’s everything you need to know about governor ‘Ahok’.

I

t’s not a particularly common thing for a ChineseChristian man – a double minority in Indonesia – to become famous in the world of local politics instead of business. Basuki Tjahaja ‘Ahok’ Purnama, the former regent of East Belitung, has come a long way as governor of Jakarta, bringing rapid change and unabashed political controversy to the capital.

In 2012, Joko ‘Jokowi’ Widodo paired up with Ahok as his deputy and won the gubernatorial election for the period lasting until 2017. Ahok stood as vice governor, until Jokowi took on Prabowo Subianto in the 2014 presidential race, soon becoming the leader of Indonesia. Ahok then became governor of Jakarta by default, and has since been shaking things up in the Big Durian.

When Jokowi took the helm as president, many believed all the progress he made in Jakarta would stagnate, as it was likely too soon for someone to replace him. This was particularly true for Ahok, a Chinese-Christian in the country with the world’s largest Muslim population. Many thought he was unfit for office. However, Ahok slowly gained momentum and a camp of support with his nontraditional stance on politics and governing. Ahok is both loved and hated by Indonesia’s political insiders. He is outspoken, to the point, and ruthlessly pragmatic, yet he is also one of the most popular officials in the archipelago.

Ahok frequently uses harsh language when speaking to reporters and his constituents alike. To be fair, the people he yells at often have it coming, but even when they don’t, the governor remains indifferent all the same. A good word might be ‘filterless’, as Ahok tends to speak his mind on everything from legal issues to controversial politics and even his own personal matters.

Ahok thinks the Indonesian government is slow and inefficient. During his first two months as governor, he fired half of the city’s civil servants and used the 6

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administration’s money to boost salaries of employees that were performing well. So why is this guy popular?

The answer is that he appears tough on corruption. One of Ahok’s daily routines is meeting up with citizens who have trouble dealing with unethical administration procedures. Unlike any politician before him, Ahok gave out his personal phone numbers as “hotlines” for ordinary citizens to send him complaints. After working hours on weekdays or on the weekend, Ahok claims to make time to read the messages himself.

One of his breakthrough initiatives is the concept of transforming Jakarta into a “Smart City” via technology and social media. The project would allow Jakartans to check transportation schedules online, find great places to have a meal, and even adopt a city orphan, among other digital overhauls. Critics say the Smart City initiative is unrealistic, but governor Ahok doesn’t seem affected by public opinion. One crucial element to the project is empowering locals to report illegal or unethical occurrences in Jakarta back to the governor’s office through the use of an app called Qlue. Essentially, Qlue turns anyone with a smartphone into a bona fide whistleblower in the nation’s capital.

Ahok bucked popular opinion again when he returned the option about whether to wear hijabs in school back to the female students themselves, saying schools should not force Muslim girls to wear them. This decision was met with a great deal of public outrage and anger by officials and conservative citizens alike.

In a separate but infamously colourful incident, Lulung Lunggana, deputy of the Regional People’s Representative Assembly, said he would cut off his own ear if governor Ahok made good on his threat to sue the nation’s Supreme Audit Agency over a report that suggested Ahok’s provincial government may have colluded to mark up the purchase of land from Sumber Waras private hospital.

On the other hand, he is also not without support.

Many Jakartans praise Ahok for his work as governor.

The voluntary organization known as Teman Ahok (Friends of Ahok) seeks to have him re-elected as governor in 2017. The group obtained over one million copies of locals’ identification cards to showcase how many citizens want Ahok to run as an independent candidate. Following the campaign’s success, political parties like Golkar, Nasdem, and Hanura have also raised their hands in support of re-electing him.

Ahok’s policies are as controversial as they are potentially disruptive. Turning the status quo on its head, Ahok chose to contain prostitution into certain areas of the city, instead of trying to completely eradicate the illegal trade, which the government has been fruitlessly attempting to do for years. Illegal red light districts inevitably relocate to other areas after each expensive shut down by law enforcement officials.

“One million IDs is just the beginning. We have fulfilled our promise as citizens who wanted Pak Ahok to manage Jakarta once again,” says founder and spokesperson of Teman Ahok Amalia Ayuningtyas in an interview with Indonesia Expat.

“Now, as many political parties start to move closer to the election, we are glad that Ahok only has to choose which way he wants to go.”

As quoted by Tempo in a statement to reporters outside City Hall in February, Ahok said, “I have no problem with prostitution, no one can get rid of prostitution. You think prostitutes in Dolly, Surabaya are gone? Many of them are [still operating] in the cemetery.”

There are large disparities between the perceptions and beliefs of Ahok supporters and the opposition. To this, Ayuningtyas explains, “It’s the nature of democracy.

There are pros and cons to every aspect, just like how Ahok’s policies have them too. People’s scepticism is a

Australian Ambassador Grigson with Governor Ahok at the TransJakarta headquarters. Photo: DFAT, Timothy Tobing

Abraham Lunggana. Photo: Celahkota

Amalia Ayuningtyas (the middle girl with glasses and hijab). Photo: Lontaranews

Sumber Waras private hospital. Photo: Metrotvnews

Tommy Prayoga is a full-time staff writer and editor at Content Collision, a media agency and technology firm in Southeast Asia. He covers issues related to political science, news, and business. For more information, visit www.ContentCollision.co

sign that they are observing. However, scepticism toward Ahok or the provincial government should take the form of responsible criticisms. This is especially true when done publicly or on social media.”

Even to the Teman Ahok organizers, the governor is not perfect. “Of course there are critiques from us regarding his policies. Internally, we use them as a discussion topics.

In public, we always try to give information about pros and cons of his policies in creative ways such as videos and graphic designs, based on research and discussion with experts,” adds Ayuningtyas.

Regarding factors that might affect Ahok’s re-election, Ayuningtyas says how the candidate chooses to run is important. If he chooses to nominate himself through one of the political parties, many independent supporters will be disappointed, and the public will view the move as inconsistent with Ahok’s politics to date. But regardless of whether he runs for re-election independently or under a party’s flag, Teman Ahok claims it will continue its support.

“We are not great at playing the ‘what if’ game. What is clear, however, is that Teman Ahok is prepared to make sure he can run Jakarta once again,” says Ayuningtyas.

To provide another interesting perspective on Jakarta’s love-hate relationship with its governor, Indonesia Expat interviewed Juneman Abraham, a social psychology professor from BINUS University, who in the past has been a member of the General Elections Commission selection team. Essentially, this means he has experience in choosing the folks who have final say in which candidates are allowed to run for governor in the capital.

“When it comes to Ahok, society could be split in terms of attitude. Constructive attitudes are shown through appreciation towards his performance that aligns with good governance,” says Abraham. “People with destructive attitudes often view his ideas cynically and negatively, with

“People with destructive attitudes often view his ideas cynically and negatively, with occasional attacks – directly or subtly – by his political opponents.” occasional attacks – directly or subtly – by his political opponents. From what I’ve observed, constructive supporters do not only come from his political allies (Teman Ahok, for example), but interestingly, also from the citizens whose daily activities are not connected to politics.”

From a psychological standpoint, Abraham claims people who are politically involved will always think constructively about the policies and candidates they like, while also trying to deconstruct those they fear.

According to him, Ahok is winning in terms of his “psychological distance” with the public.

Abraham explains, “Jakarta citizens have very small distance from Ahok because he is easy to meet in-person in front of City Hall every day. Additionally, he’s always present as his work and activities are often recorded in the media and aired on YouTube. Due to these presences, we can often observe him speaking based on concrete data and logic. This has resulted in the popular view of Ahok being clean and honest. His presence is also facilitated virtually by hotlines and the Qlue application, giving Jakartans the sense of his availability at every second.”

Abraham’s assessment seems to hold up. Ahok tries to reduce his distance with people via various social identities.

He built the first ever mosque in City Hall. He made City Hall open to the public, dismissing the restricted vibe given by most other government buildings in Indonesia. On several occasions, Ahok has identified himself as an independent by saddling up to his supporters rather than any one political party. He even asked for the blessing of his supporters when attempting to negotiate with various political parties.

However, Abraham claims some see Ahok as arrogant and arbitrary due to the way he delivers messages.

On the quickly obtained one-million-citizen identification cards, Abraham says, “It is a result of what we call a selfregulated society, which emerges from the urgency to save Jakarta. When supporters feel a politician is in danger, self-reflective discourse is easily developed, resulting in spontaneous yet tactical action plans to protect their candidate.” Ahok himself has also taken the position of ‘nothing-to-lose’ while often being put down in public.

This helps him pique the public’s curiosity, which can sometimes lead to support.

Critics say Ahok’s Achilles heel is his shoot-from-the-hip nature. “Ahok likes to hypothesize based on his own data, which sometimes is too early to be disclosed to the public,” says Abraham. “Some see him as impulsive and accusatory toward others.”

An interesting example of this comes back to Ahok threatening to sue the Supreme Audit Agency on charges of corruption. Although Lunggana (the man who made promises to Vincent Van Gotye) still opposes the governor, Ahok’s accusations were partially vindicated when one of the agency’s leaders, Muhammad Sanusi, was recently arrested by the Corruption Eradication Committee.

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EXPAT BUSINESS FEATURED

Will Amazon Create an E-commerce Apocalypse for Indonesia’s Local Players?

American e-commerce giant Amazon will enter Indonesia with US$600 million.

Local e-commerce competitors prepare for winter as Alibaba ramps up too.

BY KE TUT KRISNA WIJAYA

The archipelago's number of mobile users is also growing rapidly due to the market being flooded with affordable Android smartphones. Currently, Indonesians can buy a new smartphone for as little as US$80. Feature phones (a term used to describe mobile phones that don’t connect to the Internet) are still the most used in Indonesia, but this is set to change in coming years.

According to Standard Chartered, there were around 149 million middle-class Indonesians in early 2015. That number is predicted to soar to 171 million by 2020.

With this in mind, Indonesian consumers are becoming increasingly savvy when it comes to awareness about online shopping.

All of these conditions bundled together act as the main driver for Amazon and Alibaba to be taking Indonesia’s nascent e-commerce market deadly seriously.

A dominant player in five years?

Just three months after Chinese e-commerce giant Alibaba acquired Rocket Internet’s Lazada for US$1 billion, America's largest online retailer Amazon is now preparing to expand its business to Indonesia. The country is Lazada’s largest market, and home to more than 250 million people. Experts say Amazon is packing a hefty war chest of US$600 million.

Competition is sure to be fierce between the two firms, but also between the overseas juggernauts and their local incumbent counterparts. While anxiety spreads among the nation's tech stakeholders, from a consumer perspective, Amazon’s arrival will undoubtedly be well received.

This news first came from Daniel Tumiwa, chairman of the E-commerce Association of Indonesia. “Amazon has announced it will open up e-commerce in Indonesia. They are ready to invest US$600 million for the first year here in Indonesia,” said Tumiwa, as quoted by Kompas. But even though Tumiwa has spilled the beans, Amazon remains tight-lipped about its plans for Southeast Asia’s largest consumer market.

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Indonesia expat issue 170

Will Indonesia grow up like China or India?

If anyone’s word in Indonesia can be taken to the bank about what’s to come for local e-commerce, it’s Tumiwa’s. That said, he admits he merely heard the news through the grapevine. Tumiwa believes Amazon will follow the same pattern as its previous expansions in other emerging markets, such as India. Its took only two and a half years for Amazon to become the most visited e-commerce site in India, snapping up a more than 50 percent market share in a country with 1.25 billion consumers.

The firm left two major local e-commerce players Flipkart and Snapdeal in the dust.

But Indonesia has different demographics to India. Many tech experts believe Indonesia’s e-commerce space may morph into something resembling China’s within a decade. Currently, e-commerce accounts for less than one percent of all retail transactions in Indonesia. In China, that figure sits at around 13 percent.

With this in mind, there are a couple of different outcomes for the current online retail players in Indonesia: get outspent

Indonesia’s e-commerce industry has developed quickly in recent years. For those who are less familiar with tech terminology, there are two main ways to run an e-commerce operation. One can set up a marketplace or choose to run a classifieds site. Indonesia’s marketplace sites include Bukalapak, Tokopedia, Lazada, MatahariMall, and Bhinneka, all of which can be considered the big fish in the pond. These sites process payments and are accountable for making sure you get your goods. For classifieds, there are sites like Jualo and OLX Indonesia (formerly TokoBagus), which are essentially just people selling to each other without the site getting involved on a transactional level.

– like what we see happening to India’s incumbents – and sell your operation before it’s too late, or try find a way to outmanoeuvre Amazon and Alibaba in Jakarta.

One percent of the total retail sector sounds small, but the number is actually quite big.

SingPost projects Indonesians will spend US$543.07 billion on retail and US$4.49 billion on e-commerce in 2016. Other key factors include Internet penetration, the number of domestic mobile users, and Indonesia’s growing middle-class.

According to a recent survey from the Indonesia Internet Service Provider Association, in 2014 there were around 80 million people connected to the Internet. That number has grown rapidly in less than two years. Local Internet service providers like Telkom Indonesia, Biznet, Ooredoo, and others are getting more aggressive in promoting fibre optic broadband service to home users. This means a combination of faster internet at more affordable prices, and more people in the country connected to the web overall.

Each one of these local e-commerce sites serves hundreds of thousands of active users with millions of orders each month.

Bukalapak, for example, says it has 17 million registered users. On the other hand, the firm’s biggest competitor Tokopedia claimed to be facilitating 6 million transactions per month with only 300,000 active users as of 2015.

But firms like Amazon and Alibaba won’t be easily taken down. Both giants already became the winners in their home countries, while also expanding to new markets and rolling out new services.

In terms of market maturity, now is the perfect time for them to get into Indonesia, as the local players have already forged a path and educated the market.

To glean more perspective on the issue, Indonesia Expat interviewed Madeleine Ong de Guzman, chief marketing officer of Elevenia, a joint venture between XL Axiata and SK Telecom. Elevenia is yet another one of Indonesia’s e-commerce heavyweights.

Ketut Krisna Wijaya is a Bali-based journalist and full-time editor at Content Collision. He specializes in technology and business stories in Southeast Asia. For more information, visit www.ContentCollision.co

“There were around 149 million middle-class Indonesians in early 2015. That number is predicted to soar to 171 million by 2020.”

“If Amazon really does come to Indonesia, this will be good for the industry and a good opportunity also for everybody. We all know their expertise and what have they have done in the past. If it can be done in Indonesia this will raise everything that is being done in the country,” says de Guzman.

But with immense expertise in warehousing, logistics, and technology, the real question local stakeholders are surely asking each other is: Will Amazon end up dominating the market within a year or two, like what happened in India?

De Guzman gives a confident answer: “Indonesia is a very unique market and there is no dominant player at the moment.

In the next two to three years, I am expecting mergers and acquisitions, business model changes, adjustments of strategy [...] and a dominant player will probably be more evident in five years.”

Since its 2013 inception, Elevenia has arguably been one of the fastest growing e-commerce sites in Indonesia, with total funding of around US$110 million. As a business-to-consumer e-store, Elevenia currently claims around 300,000 sellers serving 3 million buyers, clocking around 30,000 transactions per day.

Madeleine adds, “Existing local and international players will definitely survive against Amazon [...] E-commerce is not just a platform or a brand game. It’s more of an experience and it comes down to customer satisfaction. For whoever can execute consistently and has more patience, these things will be key. Another thing,

if Amazon really does come, this will actually increase every [local e-commerce] company's level of competitiveness, and the sellers and the buyers will ultimately be the winners.”

It’s now or never for payments, logistics, and infrastructure Amazon will face the same problems that local e-commerce players are already grappling with in Indonesia. Logistics and payments remain the two biggest. The country has complicated geographic layout, with around 17,000 different islands spread across Southeast Asia. Shipping packages to different islands is expensive and takes time; sometimes packages don’t arrive at all. For example, if someone in Bali wants to buy something from Jakarta, it takes almost a week for the buyer to get his goods via the low-cost shipping option.

Indonesia has embraced a few concepts to help remedy logistics headaches. Some e-stores have launched their own delivery operations, while others place distribution centres in strategic locations around the archipelago to allow for online-to-offline pickup of goods purchased.

Amazon will also have to deal with the fact that credit cards may never be the preferred way of online payment. According to the Indonesian Credit Card Association, there are only around 8 million credit card holders in the nation, which is 3.2 percent of the entire population. This means – unlike developed markets in the West – Amazon will have to hit the ground running with payment methods like cash on delivery, and traditional bank transfers. issue 170 Indonesia expat

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EXPAT BUSINESS BUSINESS PROFILE

A S O K KUM A R O F P T SCH E N K E R PE TRO LO G UTA M A

Winning Hearts and Minds Asok is originally from Malaysia, although he has been an expat in Germany, the UK, Thailand and Japan before joining global logistics company DB Schenker in Singapore in 2006, where he headed up sales for the Asia Pacific region. The former marathon runner has been President Director of PT Schenker Petrolog Utama in Indonesia since April 2014, managing a staff of 506. He is known with admiration among his team for his meticulous attention to detail, as well as his humility and ability to lead.

We have seen that impact [of expats leaving Indonesia] very clearly. The numbers are not as good as we would like them to be.

BY ANGEL A RICHARDSON

Our local partner has been very helpful to direct us in the right way and open doors for opportunities; it’s a very good partnership.

What initially got you into the world of logistics?

I started my career out of university with the airlines – I had an interest in planes when I was young. I studied mechanical engineering but I never worked as an engineer! I started in the airline business on the passenger side, going into general management and the handling of passengers.

After eight years on the passenger side of the business, I then switched to cargo.

But after four years working in the airline cargo side it got a bit monotonous because it was just port to port. But in the process of doing that, I got to understand more about the total end-to-end supply chain business and I started to understand elements of logistics which I never dealt with as an airline employee. So when an opportunity came along to join the third party logistics (3PL) side of the business, I took it because I thought, “OK, now I can really become a logistics professional.”

You offer expatriate move services.

Are you seeing more expats leaving than coming?

Yes, we do! We offer international and domestic moves, which is our only B2C business and gives us a face to the consumer. Most of the people we move for compliment us for it.

What opportunities did DB Schenker see in Indonesia that led to the establishment of the business here?

Schenker first came to Indonesia in 1974, and in 1999 we made a joint venture with the Petrolog Indah Group and became PT Schenker Petrolog Utama. I wasn’t around that time (or I was but I was in diapers!), but back in 1974 Indonesia was an active economy with a lot of potential. Schenker has been around for over 100 years and is always looking at emerging markets and economies in which to grow. At that time Indonesia must have been an interesting market to have a footprint on and grow in.

Can you tell us what the mutual benefits of the joint venture have been?

It’s always useful to have a local partner, simply because navigating the political landscape is important. Politics is politics, business is business, but somehow they get interconnected. Understanding the business culture is very helpful. Some very German mentalities cannot be applied here!

Can you give us a general overview of the work DB Schenker does in Indonesia?

We interestingly enough are involved in all aspects of the business except courier services. We are not B2C (Business to Consumer), we are B2B (Business to Business). Besides offering standard air freight import-export, bulk importexport, bulk ocean import-export, customs clearance services, delivery to warehouses, delivery to sites, warehousing, and distribution services, we also offer services in oil and gas projects, where we deal with very large equipment, drills, and rigs.

We are also involved in coal and mining, however that industry has slowed down so we’re not currently seeing much movement there.

Recently, with Jokowi’s push on 35,000 Megawatts of power, a lot of power projects are ongoing and we are involved in some of them where we’ll be moving turbines and specialist equipment. We do route surveys, making an assessment and determining what needs to be done where, and then execute – sometimes this involves contracting people to build bridges!

We also do fairs and exhibitions – supporting the movements in and out of venues, setting up and dismantling displays, and bringing it back again. And we are involved in moving, storing and distributing for the healthcare industry, which is growing steadily in Indonesia, especially with the development of the BPJS system.

Can you tell us more about your rail services?

Rail has not been a primary means of moving things in the past, partly because maybe services were not so reliable, tracks may not have been so well developed, but Kereta Api in the last two years are a lot more keen to grow the business. We are now moving regular products from Jakarta to Surabaya and back.

Getting customers on board at the beginning was tough; they weren’t sure if this was going to work – they all used trucks. But once we got them on board, it picked up immediately. Last month we moved 300 containers from Jakarta to Surabaya.

What has the feedback been like from your rail customers?

Customers have realized it really works. It’s much faster than trucks, it’s safe, there’s no damage to the products, it’s reliable, cost efficient, green, and there are typically no delays – the customers see that and are happy! Transit time from Jakarta-Surabaya is 18–20 hours, but with a truck you’re looking at 48–72 hours.

A recently launched service we’re offering is Less than Container Load (LCL), which means you don’t need to fill a container via rail anymore. Just give me one palette and I’ll move it for you at the cost of just that.

This will make this rail service even more popular.

Rail takes trucks off the road, which means you can enjoy your drive. Those 300 containers we moved last month, they were all without a doubt previously moved by trucks congesting the roads.

BUSINESS SNIPPETS

British Petroleum invests in West Papua natural gas project SOURCE: INDONESIA- INVESTMENTS.COM

One of the world’s leading oil and gas companies, London-based British Petroleum (BP), submitted its final investment development decision to expand the Tangguh liquefied natural gas (LNG) facility (the Train 3 project) in West Papua. According to a statement from BP, this decision will create 10,000 new jobs, boost the local economy and will contribute to meeting Indonesia’s energy needs. Construction is scheduled to start in the fourth quarter of 2016 and is targeted to be completed by 2020.

The Tangguh expansion project involves the construction of an additional LNG 10

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process train (Train 3) and is designed to add 3.8 million tonnes per annum (mtpa) of production capacity to the existing facility.

After completion of Train 3, the total plant capacity at Tangguh will reach 11.4 mtpa.

The expansion project includes two offshore platforms, 13 new production wells, an expanded LNG loading facility as well as additional supporting infrastructure.

Construction of Train 3 is estimated to require some US$8 billion worth of funds.

Initially, the investment was estimated at US$12 billion but due to the decline in global oil prices, the company has adjusted its engineering, procurement and construction (EPC) services.

“Indonesia has a high logistics cost: 23 percent of GDP. This figure is improving, but the question is why so high?”

You actively measure CO2 output and energy usage in every DB Schenker affiliate around the world. Can you share with us your findings from Indonesia and what you’re doing to reduce these here?

There’s no measure as such but we say we are the most green logistics company in the industry – we even have a special logo, the ‘ecophant’, which is a symbol of our green initiatives. And yes, we do measure locally.

We have to report our electricity usage and CO2 emissions to our headquarters. We even look for airlines that have planes that are no older than six years old because they burn less fuel compared to the older ones.

And as much as possible we use rail.

We build green warehouses, which are facilities that try to use natural light, natural ventilation, and natural water using rainwater for bathrooms. Our global target is to reduce carbon dioxide emissions by 20 percent by 2020: on land by 26 percent, in the air by 25 percent, on the oceans by 33 percent and stationary by 18 percent. To further reduce emissions, this year we will use more LED lamps, add charger timers for forklifts which will automatically cut off electricity when fully charged, and train drivers in defensive driving, so that they drive more efficiently.

A significant share of your portfolio comes from the oil and gas industry. With the current challenges this particular industry is facing, is this having an effect on your business?

There’s no doubt that the industry is challenged. We’re seeing clients reduce their activity and a lot of expats have gone home.

The entire industry is at a standstill – some people think it will pick up this year, others next year. It has impacted our business, but in turn we try to help them; we sit with them and look at ways to reduce their costs.

The rail is one of the solutions we’ve given them.

What is the main challenge you face logistics-wise in Indonesia and how can this be improved?

Indonesia has a high logistics cost: 23 percent of GDP. This figure is improving,

Indonesia's state-owned electricity company Perusahaan Listrik Negara (PLN) is the largest buyer of the Tangguh expansion project's output. PLN will buy 75 percent of LNG produced by Train 3.

The remaining output of the additional facility will be sold to Japan-based Kansai Electric Power Company.

Indonesian authorities warmly welcomed the news that BP submitted its final investment development decision.

Indonesian Minister of Energy and Mineral Resources Sudirman Said said the expansion project (Train 3) is a key project for Indonesia, as the nation is in need of energy. Recently, the government announced its ambitious plans of adding 35,000 MW to the nation’s power capacity by 2020. Moreover, the government supports direct investment in eastern

but the question is why so high? There are multiple challenges, starting with the ports where the capacity is highly constrained and facilities need to be upgraded. The roads, bridges, and highways need to be improved too. Then there’s infrastructure in terms of warehousing, and of course traffic which affects logistics movement.

The ability to have an efficient supply chain and distribution is sometimes hampered by 17,000 islands, road infrastructure, ports, airports and, of course, regulations.

The good news is it’s very clear the government is trying to fix this. Jokowi is one president who talks logistics; he knows the complexities of the challenges we face and things are all moving in the right direction.

DB Schenker is proud of its customer service at every level – what kind of training do your staff undergo in order to meet desired expectations?

We invest heavily in training because we believe in it. Three levels: management training, people development, and skills training. We try to schedule our people every year to go for training on a rolling basis. We want to step it up even more.

At the end it’s investing in our people and our future.

What attributes do you believe a leader requires to run a business successfully in Indonesia?

You will find a lot of the basic management principles you learn at business school do not necessarily apply in Indonesia. I believe that the most successful style of leadership in Indonesia is to win hearts and minds; it’s not just about walking around with warning letters in your back pocket.

You have to try to get people to believe in what you’re trying to achieve, to respect you as a leader, and they will follow. To be a successful leader, it’s about being able to build that status with the people – a mix of humility, giving clear direction and also showing people you know what you’re talking about whilst being fair.

Indonesia in order to see a more evenly spread out economy.

The Tangguh LNG facility is located in Teluk Bintuni Regency, West Papua. It currently still consists of offshore gas production facilities that supply two 3.8 mtpa liquefaction trains. The project is operated by BP Berau Ltd. on behalf of the other production sharing contract partners.

BP Berau Ltd. and its affiliates in Indonesia hold a 37.16 percent stake in the project, followed by MI Berau B.V. (16.30 percent), CNOOC Muturi Ltd. (13.90 percent), Nippon Oil Exploration (Berau) Ltd. (12.23 percent), KG Berau Petroleum Ltd and KG Wiriagar Petroleum Ltd (10.00 percent), Indonesia Natural Gas Resources Muturi Inc. (7.35 percent), and Talisman Wiriagar Overseas Ltd. (3.06 percent). issue 170 Indonesia expat

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EXPAT LIFESTYLE MEET THE EXPAT Karen Davis is a NYC artist and writer.

M E L ATI A N D I SA B E L WI J S E N

From Bali to the World’s Stage Sisters and founders of Bye Bye Plastic Bags, a campaign to ban plastic bags in Bali, share how they are implementing their movement in Bali and beyond.

BY K AREN DAVIS

You were both born and raised in Bali; at what age did you start your project to ban plastic bags on the island?

Melati: I was 12 and Isabel was ten years old.

What made you decide to start this bold initiative at such young ages?

Isabel: The idea actually started one day with a lesson in causes at the Green School, where we learned about the positive changes created by leaders and individuals such as Mahatma Gandhi and Princess Diana. We learned how the small gestures of one person can turn into huge global social and economic movements.

Melati: We decided we did not want to wait until we got diplomas and went to university. We thought right now is the time to do something, as kids. We studied all the issues Bali is facing and chose garbage because that is what most impacted our daily lives. As we would play in the rice fields or walk on the beach we saw plastic bags clogging the gutters and piling up in the rivers, and on the side of the road. We saw this as a realistic problem we could tackle.

How did you get started?

Isabel: We realized through our research that this is not just a problem in Bali but throughout the entire world.

We saw how other places had tackled this issue and knew we could do this also!

Melati: With plastic bags the change comes through the power of the consumers. If we can get everyone to say no, they will not be handed out.

Isabel: We were invited by our teacher Kayti Denham to kick our initiative off at the Global Issues Network (GIN) conference here in Bali. After that we were invited to schools to do presentations and followed this up by attending festivals and markets to raise awareness of our endeavour.

Tell me about your village pilot programme here in Bali.

Melati: We realized early on that education is an integral part of creating the change we want to achieve.

We went to the local village of Pererenan and created a programme that can be implemented in other villages and communities. The amount of plastic has been decreased by 60 percent already!

Isabel: Pererenan is a small village in southwest Bali with 800 families. We go every weekend to increase awareness among the local Balinese who are ready for change and welcome it. They are traditionally all about connecting with nature and recognizing its role in their lives. Farming and ceremonies revolve around the phases of nature. However, they were never educated that plastic was bad, that it was toxic and affected their health negatively, especially when it was burned. When they were taught the truth about plastic they naturally began changing their behaviours.

What are some other ways you have been bringing awareness of your initiative to young people?

Isabel: We focus on youth and have created a 25-page book by young people for young people to understand the importance of action now and how they can be an important part of changing their environment and making a better future. It is in Bahasa Indonesia and we are working with the government to make it a part of the curriculum in schools.

Melati: On a global scale, we have reached 10,000 students in seven countries in three languages through our talks, seminars, and conferences! But we still were unable to get an audience with the governor of Bali, whom we wanted very much to get on board with our no more plastic bags initiative.

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“With plastic bags the change comes through the power of the consumers. If we can get everyone to say no, they will not be handed out.”

Is this what led to your petition?

Melati: Yes, we thought if we got a million signatures we could get the governor to pass a law. We went to petition sites and decided to go with Avaaz. It was the best decision because we got 6,000 signatures within an hour and Avaaz has been a great supporter of ours.

Isabel: We also went to the airport where we got 1,000 signatures in an hour and a half.

How did you finally reach the governor?

Isabel: After one and a half years of efforts to get to the governor and being told he was unavailable, we were invited to India for our first international talk at INK Talk.

Our parents took us to Mahatma Gandhi’s house, now a museum. He is one of the people we were inspired by. As our parents waited outside we went through the house to learn about his story and how he accomplished things.

Melati: We learned how he always did things in a nonviolent manner through hunger strikes and peaceful marches. So we went back to our parents and said, “Mum, Dad! We are going on a hunger strike!” This did not go over well with our friends, family or our teachers! So we met with a nutritionist and came up with a good alternative.

We would go on a hunger strike from sunrise to sunset. By day two there was a lot of attention and media coverage and it was pretty successful because we got a call from the governor’s office with the message that although he was off island he would love to meet with us!

Isabel: On the third day we went to the governor’s office and met the governor in a private room. He said he was very proud of his Indonesian girls and that we had his full support to reach the goal of making Bali free of plastic bags by the year 2018.

Melati: This was a huge step for us because we are now in direct contact with the Environmental Department of the Government. We exchange weekly updates and maintain a great relation with the government, sharing the same vision of a plastic bag-free Bali. Our persistence paid off and now we are taken seriously. After this we went to London for a TED Talk where our talk on youth empowerment had over one million views.

Melati and Isabel, you are now 15 and 13 years old, where do you see yourselves in the future personally?

Melati: Continue on the path of youth empowerment by expanding it through a strong worldwide network.

Isabel: I love the stage and all the performing arts! I see doing theatre for noble causes.

What is your vision for Bali in the years to come?

Melati and Isabel: Seeing Bali reconnect in a stronger way to its traditional ways and have a higher consciousness concerning environmental issues.

For more information, visit www.byebyeplasticbags.org

issue 170 Indonesia expat

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EXPAT LIFESTYLE FOOD AND DRINK When she isn't travelling around Asia, Alice enjoys spending time with her golden retriever, Gerard.

While most producers do not even try to hide the fact that their kopi luwak comes from caged civets, some claim that their coffee is made from beans sourced from civets in the wild while this in fact is far from reality. An investigation conducted by People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals revealed that many producers mislabel their coffee claiming that it is sourced from wild civets, while in fact it comes from incarcerated civets. Not only unethical, such mislabelling means that consumers are not getting the kind of product they are paying for.

In the past, the coffee luwak production process began with wild civets prowling the jungle to select the juiciest, ripest coffee cherries. This resulted in high quality coffee beans. Caged civets are forced to eat huge quantities of inferior quality beans, which in turn results in a product of inferior quality.

The Terrible Truth behind Your Cup of

Cat Poo Coffee

In Bali, the high demand for luwak coffee has created a ruthless industry built on immense animal suffering and an inferior product.

BY ALICE JAY

Kopi luwak, or coffee produced from beans that have passed through the digestive tract of Asian palm civets (luwak), has been a growing worldwide trend among coffee connoisseurs. Little do they know that most of the luwak coffee produced in Bali comes at a price, much higher than what coffee lovers fork out for a supposed quality product.

“We urge people not to purchase coffee luwak that is produced by civets in captivity. If there is no demand, then the production, and its associated cruelty, will come to a halt.”

Traditionally, luwak coffee beans were sourced from wild civets, with villagers harvesting them from the forest floor and selling them to producers. In fact, it was coffee plantation workers employed by the Dutch during Indonesia’s colonial era who first discovered the unique brew. Prohibited from picking coffee beans for their own consumption, the farmers resorted to collecting the beans contained in civet droppings. It soon became apparent that once cleaned and roasted, the fermented beans resulted in a smooth cup of coffee.

The kopi luwak industry in Indonesia is largely unregulated. The country’s animal protection laws are weak, largely irrelevant and rarely enforced. “There are many inhumane animal practices in Bali and Indonesia that should be regulated, including the cruel use of civet cats for profit,” Girardi says. “BAWA has studied the relevant laws with legal counsel and advocates stronger laws, better enforcement and tougher penalties for offences against animals. There is so much animal cruelty here that in most other environments would be criminal.”

BAWA has started a Responsible Tourism programme that urges tourists to research attractions and other facilities that rely on animals before they visit them in order to avoid supporting animal cruelty. “We urge people not to purchase coffee luwak that is produced by civets in captivity. If there is no demand, then the production, and its associated cruelty, will come to a halt,” Girardi says. “We work hard to educate school children and communities about the importance of respect for animals.

We also work to reform Indonesia’s animal protection laws. This is one of our biggest challenges and requires far more resources than we currently have.”

Change can start with all of us, and the average person can do a lot to stop the cruelty in the coffee luwak industry. Janice says that it is best to stay away from Bali’s luwak coffee as most of it comes from caged civets, even the coffee luwak promoted as 100 percent cagefree. “People should refrain from visiting farms that have captive civets and should not support operators who offer tours to such facilities,” Girardi says. “Also, anybody can write a letter to their local Indonesian Embassy calling for a ban on keeping and farming civets for coffee luwak, and the strengthening and enforcement of laws to protect the welfare of wild and domestic animals in Indonesia.”

Unfortunately, due to the growing demand for coffee luwak and producers trying to maximize profits, the traditional method of collecting civet droppings has given way to a battery cage system. Today most of Bali’s luwak coffee is produced from beans sourced from caged civets that often live in appalling conditions and are force fed coffee beans.

Janice Girardi, the founder of Bali Animal Welfare Association (BAWA), says that she has heard of only one kopi luwak plantation on the island that is trying to source its beans from wild civets. “Collecting the droppings is a very labour-intensive process and most producers choose the easy way out, which usually involves keeping civet cats in captivity and in inhumane conditions.”

Janice says that the future of the industry in Bali depends on the producers and the public. “If the producers who are sourcing humanely from wild civets promote that and are supported by consumers, it might encourage those who continue to use caged civets to change. If consumers and retailers refuse to buy from farms using captive civets, lack of demand for their products will force such producers to change their practices or to fold,” Girardi says. “This kind of change is not going to happen overnight. The real key to change is getting Indonesia’s animal protection laws improved and enforced with tough penalties for offenders. This is work in progress.”

During the peak tourist season, BAWA receives many complaints from distressed tourists who are distraught about the conditions in which the civets are kept at luwak coffee plantations. BAWA investigates many such complaints by paying visits to such producers. “BAWA’s findings have been shocking. The captive kopi luwak industry causes discomfort, pain and distress to civets.

Please report any cases of abuse to tour operators, retailers of coffee luwak, as well as to BAWA (preferably in writing and with photographic/video evidence). Also, BAWA is looking for anyone with legal expertise willing to donate a bit of time. Email: info@balianimalwelfare.com.

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Indonesia expat issue 170

The animals are shy and nocturnal yet often they are forced to live in glaring artificial light with other animals and tourists ‘gawking’ at them. People poke at them with their fingers, through their cages,” Girardi says.

EXPAT LIFESTYLE TRAVEL

W E S T J AVA’ S S M A L L A N D M Y S T I C A L H I N D U T E M P L E

Cangkuang

BY ANI SUSWANTORO

B an t

en

Java Sea

Jakarta Cirebon Bandung Garut Cangkuang Indian Ocean

Cangkuang Temple

Sitting in West Java, however, is a lesserknown temple known as Cangkuang. This candi, which was named after the tropical pandan tree, was built in the 8th century and sits 600 metres above sea level in a 16.5-hectare piece of land on the edge of a lake. The 8.5-metre-high ancient building is surrounded by four mountains, Haruman, Kaledong, Mandalawangi and Guntur, and is also situated near other interesting sites for visitors to explore: a museum and the Kampung Pulo traditional community.

The museum houses a collection of Islamic holy books. To be more specific, it keeps relics of Friday Prayer sermons, the Holy Qur’an book made of a goat’s hide, and Islamic contemporary law (Fikih) books made of old wood bark.

The temple is open daily from 7am - 5pm Ticket price: Rp.3,000 for (locals) and Rp.5,000 (foreigners).

Raft price: Rp.5,000 per person and Rp.100,000 to rent the entire raft.

Province: West Java

How to get there

The most convenient way is by car but Garut is also accessible by train from Jakarta to Bandung to be continued on by car, or by public bus from Kampung Rambutan bus terminal in Jakarta directly to Garut.

Cangkuang Temple

Where to stay

Kampung Sampireun Resort and Spa on Jl. Raya Samarang Kamojang km.4 is a nice option to stay in Garut. It is 20 kilometres south of Cangkuang Temple.

Other hotels are the Papandayan and Mulih ka Desa.

Where to eat

Rumah Makan Sari Cobek and Rumah Makan Asep Stroberi are Sundanese restaurants, two of the many choices available.

Kampung Pulo Community

Tour guides

www.buahbatutrans.com

Places of interest

Mount Cikuray, Mount Papandayan, Mount Guntur with Citiis Waterfall, Situhapa Rose Garden, Cipanas Hot Springs, Cimanuk River Rafting, and Orok Waterfall.

How to get there

The museum

Discovering one of the few Hindu-Buddhist relics ever to be discovered in West Java.

One Tuesday morning, a gang of youngsters got on a raft to cross a lake and visit a small temple located on a hill in Garut Regency, West Java. “We just finished our test, and we now want to picnic in this scenic place,” said 19-year-old Anita, a student of Pakuan University in Bogor.

“We heard about this forgotten temple and wanted to see it for ourselves. We prefer historical sites to malls; most of our friends want to go to the city, so here we are, just the four of us,” she said.

A temple, or candi in Indonesian, refers to a sacred, ancient stone building used for religious rituals like worshipping gods or for storing the ashes of cremated kings during Hindu and Buddhist eras. Sometimes the word candi also denotes ancient structures like pools or bathing places, as well as ruins of gates.

When we talk about temples in Indonesia, we mostly conjure up images of the grandiose Borobudur in Magelang or the

To get there by car from Jakarta or Bandung, simply exit the Cipularang toll road and head to Garut City. Using public transportation from Bandung to Garut, get off at Alun-alun Leles (Leles Square) and take an ojek or horse cart. And to finally reach the temple, you will have to cross a lake using a raft that can carry up to 20 passengers.

romantic Prambanan in Jogjakarta because apparently, the most well known Hindu and Buddhist temples are located in Central or East Java. Most of them were built during the classical Hindu-Buddhist eras of the 7th–15th century. Today there are more than 70 temples, ranging from small, rather insignificant ruins to those with grand structures. They can be found in Sumatra, Java and Kalimantan; East Java has the most temples (more than 20), while Central Java has 12.

As for the Kampung Pulo Community, in the village you will find a mosque and six houses, which are divided into two rows, with houses facing one another, since according to local tradition, the layout and number of houses must be arranged in order. Here, the locals – who are mostly farmers – have a unique tradition of giving their harvest away to their relatives instead of selling them. They are also forbidden to raise cows, goats or other four-legged animals, a practice also found in the Baduy tribe in Banten Province. You will only see chickens roaming in the yards of Kampung Pulo.

What is particularly interesting about Cangkuang is not only the 62-centimetretall statue of Shiva – a prominent Hindu god – that sits inside the temple’s main room, but also an Islamic tomb that sits just three metres to the south of the temple.

According to the locals, a community elder from the colonial period rests beneath the tombstone.

“It was Embah Dalem Arief Muhammad, also known as Maulana Ifdil Hanafi who was buried in the grave, believed to be an ancestor of the Cangkuang Village community. It was said that Embah Dalem Arief Muhammad came from the Mataram Kingdom in East Java. He came to attack the Dutch VOC Army in Batavia. Later he resided in Cangkuang, embraced Islam and spread the religion here. He used nonviolence in spreading the religion because he believed that Islam did not acknowledge coercion and violence,” Zaki, a local person, said.

Experts estimate, judging from the stone decay and the temple’s simplistic style, that the temple is dated circa early 8th-century, around the same period of the Dieng temples, and slightly older than temples of southern Central Java such as Prambanan.

While many beautiful historical sites can be found in Indonesia, the tourism department and local governments should provide better facilities and infrastructure, as well as easier access to attract more tourists. In this case, the existence of Cangkuang – a little Hindu temple standing next to the grave of a Muslim preacher in a community that embraces traditional values – is something that Indonesia must learn to cherish. issue 170 Indonesia expat

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EXPAT LIFESTYLE HISTORY

B R ITI S H B E N G KU LU

A Forgotten Imperial Outpost

BY TIM HANNIGAN

Bengkulu, October 1685: The fort stood atop a small hillock on the banks of a coffee-coloured creek. To the west the Indian Ocean stretched blank and white and empty. To the east the dark wall of the Bukit Barisan mountain range rose like a stalled tsunami, a grey curl of monsoon cloud spilling from its lip.

A European ship was moored offshore – the first of its kind to pass this way for many months. Inside the fort – little more than a few mouldering huts ringed by a wonky wooden palisade – two men were busy writing. Benjamin Bloome and Joshua Charlton, the English overseers of this sad little station, had been at their post since June 24, but the passing ship was only now providing them the chance to send a first message to their British East India Company overlords at Fort St. George at Madras in India. They filled 18 densely packed pages with restrained accounts of their frustrated attempts to establish an effective pepper trade before finally coming to the crux of the matter: We shall now give Your Honour an account of our woeful state and condition, which god grant better. We are by sickness all become incapable of helping one another and of the great number of people that came over not above thirty men [are] well … of the black workmen [there are] not above 15 that is capable of working; of them are dead about 40 and daily [more] die, for he that falls is hard for him to rise. All our servants are sick and dead, and at this minute [there is] not a cook to get victuals ready for those that sit at the Company’s table, and such have been our straits that we many times have fasted. The sick lies neglected, some cry for remedies but none [are] to be had: those that could eat have none to cook them victuals, so that we now have not living to bury the dead, and if one is sick the other will not watch, for he says that better one than two dies, so that people die and no notice [is] taken thereof…

For Bloome and Charlton, chiefs of what had been planned as a lucrative imperial outpost, Bengkulu was already proving to be hell on Earth.

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Indonesia expat issue 170

The British station at Bengkulu – or Bencoolen as it was known at the time – was one of saddest of all imperial follies. For much of the 17th century, British and Dutch traders had vied for control of the lucrative spice trade out of Indonesia. It was the Dutch who eventually got the upper hand, evicting their rivals from Java and Maluku. The ousted British then went looking for an alternative base in the region. They had the misfortune to choose Bengkulu, on the bony western seaboard of Sumatra.

The place had long come under the loose suzerainty of the Minangkabau sultanate of Inderapura, but it was a place of singular insignificance, even for the locals. It had no natural harbour, was far from any major population centre, and lay on completely the wrong side of Sumatra – miles away from the busy Straits of Melaka along which almost all shipping had passed since the dawn of human history.

It also had the most horrifically morbid of climates, swarming with malaria- and dengue-carrying mosquitos, and periodically swept by floodtides of cholera and smallpox. But for some reason the British believed it would become a successful pepper-growing plantation and a burgeoning way-station of international trade.

It never made a penny of profit, and for well over a century it sucked up endless lonely lives.

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The first challenge for the British was in getting anyone to go to Bengkulu – which was officially established on the basis of some slightly shaky treaty arrangements with both Inderapura and the local Rejang chiefs. From the outset they had to rely on slavery for manual labour. A number of African slaves had come out with Charlton and Bloome, but they were as susceptible to the noxious climate as the Europeans, so the Company took instead to buying large numbers of Southeast Asian slaves, particularly those kidnapped from Nias by local pirates.

When it came to European staff, meanwhile, anyone with the misfortune to pass by was in grave danger of being pressganged. That’s what happened, in 1690, to William

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Tim Hannigan hails from Cornwall in the far west of the United Kingdom. He first came to Indonesia to go surfing, but he soon got hooked on the country's potential for dry-land adventure. His most recent book is A Brief History of Indonesia.

01. Fort Marlborough, the main base for the British in Bengkulu, was completed in 1717. It was later used by the Dutch, and by the Japanese in World War II. Today it still dominates the old parts of Bengkulu.

02. The final resting place of Stokeham Donston.

03. British cannon still dot the ramparts and the courtyard of Fort Marlborough.

04. Bengkulu’s Pantai Panjang, a long strip of sand that flanks the western side of the town.

05. An image of Bengkulu in the eighteenth century.

Dampier, a gloriously disreputable globetrotting vagabond, who in the course of his seafaring career managed three complete circumnavigations of the Earth. During what was meant to be a brief stopover in Bengkulu, he found himself bullied into becoming chief gunner at the fort.

He was promised that it would only be for a short stint, but he quickly discovered that the new governor, James Sowdon, had absolutely no intention of ever releasing him from his post. Dampier was by no means impressed by his boss: “I soon grew weary of him, not thinking myself very safe indeed under a man whose humours were so brutish and barbarous.” When, in early 1691, one of the infrequent passing ships dropped anchor offshore, Dampier wriggled out of a window in the fort wall by moonlight and made his getaway.

Others sought escape not through the physical act of fleeing, but through alcohol. In 1712 Joseph Collett took charge as governor, overseeing the development of a somewhat more substantial British headquarters called Fort Marlborough. Like so many others, Collett had only come to Bengkulu under duress – he was bankrupt and deemed unemployable elsewhere. During a single month he and his 19 staff managed to get through 900 bottles of wine, 300 bottles of beer, and 200 gallons of other alcoholic beverages – prompting appalled East India Company directors back in Britain to wonder “that any of you live six months and that there are not more quarrellings and duellings amongst you”!

There were, however, some who went to Bengkulu by choice.

On 15 July 1756, a young man by the name of Stokeham Donston wrote a letter to his cousin George. He was 23 years old and he was planning to take a post in the service of the British East India Company. “The salary allowed… is about £80 or £90 p. year, but that is nothing in comparison to the advantage made by care and diligence” he wrote – and therein the motivation for so many similar young men of modest fortune throughout the 18th century is revealed. Slack management practices, irregular arrangements, and a whole host of blind eyes turned meant that Company staff in Asia could often accrue enormous fortunes – either through unofficial private enterprise on the side, or through outright corruption.

Young Donston was quite untroubled by horror stories of the Southeast Asian climate: “Some say the climate is unhealthful, and does not agree with the constitutions of the Europeans, but that I believe is in some measure owing to the irregularity of their living… and I fancy it might be avoided by resolution…”

The following year he arrived in Bengkulu, several worlds away from the English Midlands, and in no time at all he realised the full horror of his mistake. Throughout the coming years Stokeham Donston sent letters home by every passing ship, begging every friend and acquaintance to bring whatever influence they might have to bear to get him transferred to India or somewhere else less dreadful than Bengkulu. But to no avail. Sometimes he rallied and revealed his dreams of somehow still making a fortune and returning home to play at being a country gent. In 1765 he wrote again to his cousin in Nottinghamshire: I want devilishly to make up about £500 p. annum. The lord knows when that will be, it will satisfy my ambition and then you and I will join and keep a Pack of Beagles for the diversion of ourselves and the Worksop Gentry, do you think we can do it?

He never got his beagles, and he never got to go home. A full decade after that letter was mailed, the weary little British community made one of its depressingly regular trips from the fort up the road to the weed-clogged cemetery to inter yet another of their number. The gravestone they set in place is still there: “To the Memory of Stokeham Donston Esq. who departed this Life at Marlbro’ the 2nd April 1775. Aged 41”. *** By the beginning of the 19th century Bengkulu was costing the East India Company a guaranteed annual loss of £100,000 – a vast sum in today’s terms. The pepper trade was pathetic, and relations with the locals were always testy. On various occasions over the decades, the British had had to rely on mercenaries from the Bugis community settled in the area to save them from annihilation by putupon locals, who periodically got fed up with their practices of debt-slavery and forced pepper and coffee production.

At one point, in 1719, the British had to flee en masse in boats after angry locals stormed Fort Marlborough, while in 1805 a particularly heavy-handed official, Thomas Parr, was beheaded in his own bedroom by some thoroughly aggrieved Rejang chiefs.

The last but one British chief in Bengkulu was none other than Thomas Stamford Raffles, erstwhile lieutenantgovernor of British-ruled Java and future co-founder of the British settlement at Singapore (which he actually established while officially based in Bengkulu). On arrival he declared it “without exception the most wretched place I ever beheld”. During his tenure there, from 1818 to 1824, he made some efforts to knock the place into shape. He declared the remaining 200 African slaves (most of them Bengkulu-born by many generations at that stage) officially “emancipated” and gave them each a printed certificate to that effect. It was the classic grand but ultimately empty gesture: they could hardly go “home” and they remained as the lowliest labourers in government service, their circumstances essentially unchanged – though Raffles’ wife Sophia did pluck an eight-year-old girl from their ranks to serve as her personal household servant, “in order to set an example to the rest of the European community”.

Raffles lost three of his four young children to the Bengkulu climate, and by the time he left his own health was irrevocably broken too. The following year a treaty was signed between Britain and Holland. The former agreed to pull out of its territories in Sumatra, while the latter abandoned all claims on the eastern side of the Straits of Melaka. Colonial Bengkulu was, to all intents and purpose, abandoned. Some found themselves quietly wondering why it had taken 139 years since the receipt of that pitiful letter from Benjamin Bloome and Joshua Charlton for the British East India Company to come to such an eminently sensible decision. *** Today Bengkulu is one of the remotest of Indonesia’s provincial capitals; a small city where bougainvillea wells up out of the gardens and a hot breeze blows from the south. Here and there a mildewed monument to a forgotten British resident breaks the modest flow of motorbikes. There is a beach, broad and bright and empty, backed by whispering casuarinas and crooked palms. Fort Marlborough still stands, slices of heavy masonry ringing a sweltering inner compound where rusting cannon lie in the grass like beached seals. But of the older outpost, Fort York, nothing survives but a few indistinct traces of stonework in a tangle of mosquito-troubled vegetation north of town.

The cemetery, meanwhile, is a favourite hang-out for local youngsters, who use the cracked tombstones for goalposts.

In the evening, when the sun drops, Bukit Barisan still shows to the east like a black wave, and the pale sky overhead fills with thousands of flickering swiftlets. To the west the Indian Ocean melts into a pool of molten copper.

You can scan the salty distance until the last of the light is gone, greenish behind the horizon, but there are no ships. issue 170 Indonesia expat

17

EXPAT OUTREACH MEET THE EXPAT

The Missionaries

BY KENNE TH YEUNG

Imagine travelling halfway across the world at your own expense for a religious calling. A handful of Indonesians are doing just that to join the Islamic State, while a few Americans have been quietly coming to Indonesia to talk about the Mormon religion – if they are asked about it.

Mormons are not allowed to consume tea, coffee, alcohol or tobacco. Gus Dur’s curiosity was piqued. Always a moderate Muslim and a champion of inter-faith tolerance and learning, he struck up a friendship with Jensen. This culminated in Gus Dur in 1999 making two trips to the Moran Eye Center in Utah for treatment for his poor vision.

While there, he met with Mormon leaders. After being elected president in October 1999, he paved the way for more Mormon missionaries to visit Indonesia.

Elder Hayes at a Busway stop in Jakarta

Racing to beat Jakarta’s gridlock traffic a few weeks ago, I boarded a bus and noticed a couple of white faces. They didn’t look like tourists destined for the old city district.

Clean-cut and immaculately attired in black trousers, white shirts and ties, and clutching what appeared to be Bibles, these two young men stood out like what they were: Mormon missionaries in the world’s largest Muslimpopulated country.

“Even though there are differences, there are similarities between our two religions,” one of them cheerfully tells a local Muslim man seated beside him. The man politely concurs without great enthusiasm.

I had never seen a Mormon before, so I start talking to one of them. He is Elder Hayes. We swap phone numbers and arrange to meet later for an interview.

My knowledge of Mormons had hitherto come from an episode of the long-running American cartoon show South Park, which poked fun at the religion’s origins but made the point that Mormons are such nice people that they’re hard to criticize. The South Park creators later created a musical that elaborates on this theme.

For those unfamiliar with Mormonism, here’s a precis: In 1820, a man named Joseph Smith was grappling over which denomination of Christianity he should follow. He said God appeared to him in a vision and told him that all churches had “turned aside from the gospel”. Next, Smith said that in 1823, an angel appeared and told him about a book made from golden plates and some “seer stones” (for translating the book) – all hidden in a hill in New York. In 1827, he said he had retrieved the plates and stones, which he was initially not allowed to show to anyone. He later dictated from them (having concealed them in a hat) and The Book of Mormon was published in 1830.

So what is The Book of Mormon all about? In brief: A small group of Israelites left Jerusalem around 600 BC at God’s behest and went to America. They eventually split into two feuding factions: the Nephites (who followed the law of Moses) and Lamanites (who were wicked). God cursed the Lamanites by giving them dark skin. Then Jesus came to America and converted everyone to Christianity. Later, the feuding resumed and the Lamanites killed just about all of the Nephites (who became the Native American Indians).

All of this was forgotten until Joseph Smith came along to explain that mainstream Christianity had deviated from the true teachings of Jesus. The early Mormons were persecuted and Smith was murdered by an angry mob at age 38.

Mormon missionaries always travel in pairs – for reasons of safety and to provide moral support. I met with Elder Hayes and his partner Elder Tuttle at their unadorned church 18

Indonesia expat issue 170

concealed at the back of a block of nondescript shop-houses near the Harmoni busway hub in Central Jakarta.

We spend a couple of hours chatting about Mormonism and comparing experiences in Indonesia. They are such nice, upbeat guys that it’s easy to see why Mormonism appeals to those yearning to fill a yawning spiritual chasm.

Mormon men should perform two years of missionary service, usually after turning 18 and before commencing tertiary education. They can serve within America or abroad. Elders Hayes and Tuttle were selected to go to Indonesia. They first underwent about eight weeks of intensive Indonesian language study at the Missionary Training Center south of Salt Lake City, Utah.

In Indonesia, the missionaries are allowed to email their family only one day per week and have just two family Skype calls per year (usually Christmas Day and Mother’s Day). That may seem strict, but it’s still more communication than some expatriates in Indonesia bother to do.

Permission to Preach?

A group of Mormon officials visited Indonesia in 1969 and sent the first missionaries the following year. After complaints from Muslim groups that well-funded Christian missionaries were a threat to Islam, the government in 1978 banned proselytizing and decided that foreign missionaries should be replaced with locals.

By 1980, the Mormons had only about 500 active members in Indonesia. The Mormons have become more active in Indonesia since 2001 thanks to former president Abdurrahman ‘Gus Dur’ Wahid.

The story goes that in the mid-1990s, when the near-blind Wahid headed the nation’s largest Muslim organisation, he received a visit from a Californian businessman, Hal Jensen, seeking advice on doing business in Indonesia.

When Jensen was offered a cup of tea, he responded, “I don't drink tea. I'm a Mormon.”

The missionaries are still not allowed to actively proselytize and cannot operate near mosques. All they can do is chat to people and offer English lessons. If asked about their faith, they are happy to answer questions. But they don’t push their faith on others. Their Sunday church services run for three hours, including an hour of recreation, such as music and games.

Elder Hayes has spent most of his two years in Indonesia in Jakarta, the Central Java city of Solo and the East Java capital of Surabaya. While some people may consider it daunting to talk to Muslims about a little-known Christian sect, Elder Hayes considers his work a “blessing”. He was also able to spend some time in the North Sulawesi capital of Manado, where the predominantly Christian people were more welcoming.

One of the more astonishing things that Elder Hayes tells me is that he paid his own way to come to Indonesia and supports himself with money he earned from part-time jobs in America. All Mormon missionaries should be supported by themselves and/or their families. They believe they are doing God’s will by travelling abroad to talk about the joy of their faith.

Also believing they are doing God’s will are young Indonesians who travel to Syria to join the fundamentalist militant group Daesh (also known as the Islamic State, ISIS), which is seeking to establish a global caliphate by killing people. Some of the Indonesian recruits, eager to fight the oppressive West and win plunder and sex slaves, are disillusioned to find they are supposed to kill fellow Muslims in a civil war.

It may seem absurd to compare Daesh and Mormonism, but just about all religions have some history of violence, sex crimes and racism. One of the stains on Mormon history is the Mountain Meadows massacre, in which a Mormon militia in 1857 killed about 120 men, women and children in a wagon train in Utah. More recently, a Mormon offshoot called the Fundamentalist Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints saw its polygamous leader Warren Jeffs receive a life sentence in 2008 for multiple counts of child rape.

The mainstream Mormon Church of Latter-Day Saints has excommunicated extremists like Jeffs. The Mormon religion is willing to adapt to become more progressive, and unlike radical Islam, there is no death penalty for those who quit the religion.

In 2015, the Mormons recorded having over 75,000 missionaries serving in 418 missions throughout the world.

More than double the estimated 30,000 foreign fighters who had joined Daesh.

The Book of Mormon

Point-scoring aside, there are always dangers in following orders from people claiming to be speaking on behalf of God. Religion may be beneficial when kept personal, but when people travel abroad to share their faith, it’s better when they are friendly, even in the face of rejection.

Kenneth Yeung is a Jakarta-based editor

Fashion Police

BY KENNE TH YEUNG

Indonesian police are seeking to improve their image by wearing navy blue shirts emblazoned with the slogan Turn Back Crime. Criminals are donning the same apparel to commit theft and extortion.

The Indonesian Police uniform, which started out as khaki in the 1940s and morphed into shades of brown by the 1970s, is unlikely to win any fashion awards. Nor should it. Provided that police are professional, their style of apparel is unimportant.

Anton’s downfall came when he started stealing from the women. On April 10, after finishing a liaison with one woman at Kalibata City, he gave her an ATM card and asked her to purchase some goods for him at the local Indomaret convenience store.

He persuaded her to leave her handbag and phone with him. When the woman tried to pay, she discovered the ATM card was invalid. When she exited the store, Anton had disappeared along with her bag.

But since late 2015, police have been cultivating a cooler look. When Jakarta Police confronted terrorists near the Sarinah shopping centre in January 2016, there was a new type of police outfit on show: navy blue polo shirts featuring the Turn Back Crime slogan, cargo pants and sports shoes.

Suspecting that a real police officer would not resort to such underhand theft, the woman contacted some of the other victims.

Together, they went to police. Anton was later arrested at his house in Pasar Minggu.

Police said he had been routinely conning at least 13 women. He is charged with fraud and embezzlement.

Turn Back Crime is not a locally devised motto. It’s the name of a campaign launched by the International Criminal Police Organization (Interpol) in June 2014 to raise awareness of transnational criminal networks, especially those involved in cybercrime, fake goods and fake medicine.

Road Rage Who hasn’t fantasized about being an Indonesian traffic cop in order to punish errant drivers, especially reckless bus drivers?

The slogan was subsequently adopted by the director general of the Jakarta Police’s criminal investigation unit, Senior Commissioner Krishna Murti. He believes the fashionable blue shirts can improve the image, character and authority of the police.

He said police receive daily media exposure, so they should look good in order to make the public feel proud of them. Krishna is active on social media, where he recently posed in a friendly manner alongside a man accused of the murder and mutilation of a pregnant woman. Krishna deleted the photo from his Instagram account after criticism.

The National Police has consistently been ranked among the country’s most corrupt institutions. Critics say bribery is common, whether paying for a traffic infringement, a theft report or even a job on the force.

Neta S. Pane, the head of an anti-corruption group called Indonesia Police Watch, says it can cost up to Rp.100 million to join the Jakarta Police.

Members of the public wishing to look as cool as police can purchase Turn Back Crime shirts, jackets, hats and even children’s garments from numerous markets, with prices ranging from Rp.30,000 to Rp.250,000. Police uniforms and accessories can also be purchased from Senen Market in Central Jakarta.

Motorcycle Theft Rino Saputra (24), a resident of Lampung province in Sumatra, bought a ‘Turn Back Crime’ shirt and posed as a member of the Mobile Brigade (Brimob) Police. He drove around the provincial capital Bandar Lampung, looking for children driving motorbikes – not hard to find in Indonesia.

He would stop the minors and ask them to produce their license and registration.

“His Turn Back Crime shirt, which he purchased for Rp.30,000, gave him a brief chance to live his dream of becoming a corrupt policeman.”

When they were unable to do so, he would ‘confiscate’ their bikes.

He stole at least three bikes before being arrested in May. He said he was just “playing around”, but police did not take kindly to the impostor and shot him in the left leg, apparently to prevent him from escaping. Rino could face seven years in jail for theft.

Free Sex Anton Chandra (27) posed as a policeman in order to have sex with more than a dozen prostitutes living in the Kalibata City apartments in Pancoran, South Jakarta.

He started out with a regular police shirt purchased from Senen Market, before buying a more stylish Turn Back Crime shirt for Rp.100,000. On Facebook, he befriended prostitutes and invited them to meet, whereupon he offered protection from arrest if they would sleep with him.

He claimed to be a superintendent in the narcotics division.

Angga Ardian Ola (21), who works as a driver for a ride-hailing application, was driving his Honda Mobilio in steady traffic on Jakarta’s Jalan Gatot Subroto on a Wednesday night in May when a MetroMini bus suddenly cut in front of him. Infuriated, Angga raced ahead of the bus and then stopped sideways in front of it, forcing it to stop, just outside Medistra Hospital.

Wearing his Turn Back Crime shirt, he got out and challenged the bus driver to a fight.

“Don’t you know who I am?” he shouted.

Afraid that Angga was a policeman, the driver refused to fight. Angga then took out a tyre iron and smashed the bus’ windscreen and side mirrors, before driving away.

The following day, police tracked down Angga at his house in Pancoran Barat in South Jakarta. The bus driver opted not to press charges after Angga agreed to pay compensation of Rp.950,000 for the damage.

Cable Guy In a disturbing video (http://bit.ly/29nrBtC) uploaded to YouTube, a corpulent thug in sunglasses and a Turn Back Crime jacket threatens to get violent if some workers continue to install fibre optic cable in a Jakarta street without paying him.

The thug initially claims to be from Pemuda Pancasila, then from the Betawi Communications Forum (Forkabi) – both of them notorious for alleged protection rackets.

Driving Licenses In the West Java towns of Ciamis and Tasikmalaya, a 34-year-old man wore a

Turn Back Crime shirt and pretended to be a brigadier. He visited shopping centres and public places, offering to provide driving licenses for Rp.100,000 each. His victims included sales promotion girls and at least one Muslim cleric, all of whom thought it was fine to pay a bribe for a license without undergoing requisite testing.

Starting in mid-May, the man had accumulated at least 40 orders by the time he was arrested in June. He said he had been obsessed with becoming a policeman since he was a boy, but he was rejected when he tried to join the force in 1998. His Turn Back Crime shirt, which he purchased for Rp.30,000, gave him a brief chance to live his dream of becoming a corrupt policeman.

Police Training School In Sukabumi, West Java, Erwin Surya Priyadi (44) posed as an official of the police’s Basic Officer Training College.

He convinced more than 20 people to pay bribes in return for admission to the college.

He conducted this scam for a year, telling people they should pay Rp.100 million to become non-commissioned officers.

Despite a slew of complaints, he was not arrested until May. Victims who were unable to pay the Rp.100 million up front were able to pay deposits ranging from Rp.4 million to Rp.20 million.

Some were also asked to provide ‘gifts’ in the form of motorbikes and smartphones.

They started to complain when they were never admitted to the college.

Rather than just rely on a police shirt, Erwin completed his look by carrying a toy gun in a holster. He also had a police ID card, which he had purchased from a police cooperative.

Carry On In late May, there were reports that members of the public could face three months in jail if they wore Turn Back Crime shirts.

National Police chief General Badrodin Haiti and Jakarta Police spokesman Awi Setiyono hurried to clarify that people were free to wear the clothing, provided they did not commit any crimes.

Badrodin said the popularity of Turn Back Crime clothing was a positive development, as it serves as a reminder to the public that crime must be eradicated.

If a police uniform inspires mistrust and fear of extortion, then it’s time to make changes beyond mere uniforms.

Professionalism is paramount.

issue 170 Indonesia expat

19

EXPAT OUTREACH ENVIRONMENT Hans Rooseboom is a long-term resident of Jakarta.

He now enjoys a leisurely life, playing tennis most mornings and writing his blogs and other articles.

DEFORESTATION

Loggers Not to Blame Loggers, the big logging companies that is, are no longer contributing to deforestation in Indonesia. The reason: the Decree of the Minister of Commerce No. 25 of 2016, which stipulates that all timber must meet the standards of the Timber Legality Assurance System (TLAS), or in Indonesian Sistem Verifikasi Legalitas Kayu (SVLK). And the decree is being followed.

BY HANS ROOSEBOOM

of hectares of clear-felled land? Legal and illegal land clearing for agricultural purposes is a major cause of deforestation. Both large estates and individual smallholders are the main perpetrators and the favoured crop is oil palm.

Before a tree can be cut and the log moved out of the concession area and onto the market, a number of stringent conditions have to be fulfilled. The most exacting of these is the logging plan. This plan needs to be submitted to the Ministry of the Environment and Forestry before logging can start. It contains a map (Peta Sebaran Pohon) of the blocks to be logged during a certain year, showing the location of the trees to be felled, coded with their latlong coordinates.

Apart from losing biodiversity and the habitat of protected species such as elephants, tigers and orangutans, the worst damage inflicted upon the environment by oil palm estates results from the slash-and-burn land-clearing method used to prepare the land for planting. Every year, hundreds of thousands of hectares go up in smoke and the negative effects are not only felt in the respective provinces, but also in Singapore and Malaysia. It would appear that incompetence or unwillingness of estate managers is to blame for this. Yields of oil palm estates and smallholders in Indonesia could be doubled from 30 to 60 tonnes per hectare if better agronomic practices were applied.

Trees to be preserved are mapped the same way. Their identification is done in cooperation with the communities of forest dwellers and villages bordering the forest. These communities act as guides, indicating which areas are of special social or cultural value, for instance, burial grounds or dwelling places of ancestors. Trees with economic value, for example where resin is tapped, or honey collected from the hives of wild bees, also enter the to-be-preserved list.

Increases in production could thus be achieved without burning and clearing more forestland.

The logging plan is in fact a geographic information system (GIS) and is the medium of control for sustainability. When a tree is felled it is recorded in the GIS and the log is marked with the appropriate code. Inputting this code into the GIS will reveal the date the tree was felled and its origin. Using the same code again is thus not possible.

The computer program makes use of high-resolution maps – scale 1:1,000 – that have been agreed upon by the stakeholders. This is of great importance, as inaccurate or disputed geo-spatial data would likely contain overlaps, thereby rendering the system null and void. Room for cheating is all but non-existent as both the suppliers and the consumers of logs are reluctant to use logs that lack certification.

It is said, however, that on a limited scale, illegal logging is still carried out, but only to supply small regional markets.

The success of this certification system is undoubtedly the main reason why on April 21 President Joko Widodo; the President of the European Commission, Jean-Claude Juncker; and the President of the European Union, Donald Tusk; issued a joint statement that the EU and Indonesia have agreed to implement the Forest Law Enforcement, Governance and Trade (FLEGT) licensing scheme to reduce illegal logging and promote the trade in legal timber. This licensing scheme was preceded by the Voluntary Partnership Agreement (VPA), which was signed by the same parties in 2013 and ratified in 2014. A FLEGT license is issued after complying with the TLAS/SVLK conditions.

will not be easy. It will require 1) a clear strategy agreed by all stakeholders; 2) effective monitoring; and 3) strict law enforcement by the government.

The outline of the strategy is known. But implementation is hampered by the complexities of the issues involved and the large number of stakeholders with widely differing and often irreconcilable ideas and objectives. How, for instance, can the needs of the forest dwelling communities for a sustainably managed natural forest be made compatible with an oil palm estate's requirements of tens of thousands

“Much remains to be done on the long road to ending deforestation and the degradation of forest resources and land.”

Although the European market takes less than 10 percent of Indonesia's timber exports, TLAS, VPA and FLEGT have indeed contributed to the gradual implementation of sustainable forest management practices, and consequently to a reduction of illegal logging. Unfortunately, however, this is a first step only.

Much remains to be done on the long road to ending deforestation and the degradation of forest resources and land. Large tracts of forests are still slashed and burned as an easy and cheap way to open land for oil palm and mining estates. Mitigating the effects of these activities

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Indonesia expat issue 170

Export flows

Similar to the case of timber certification, the initiation of sustainable production methods is also bringing change to the oil palm sector, albeit slowly. The drive to strengthen sustainability of production was initiated from inside the industry. The Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO) was established in 2004 in Malaysia. The organisation evolved from the initial 47 members, largely from the industry itself, to 1,346 voting members, including 33 environmental and social activist groups and 612 manufacturers of consumer goods. RSPO is based in Zurich, Switzerland, and Indonesian producers and groups are among its members.

During the 12 years since its creation, RSPO has initiated certification of environmentally sound behaviour, which several major food and candy makers in the US and Europe now demand from their palm oil suppliers. More will certainly follow, as pressure is mounting on the buyers to monitor whether their suppliers adhere to internationally recognised standards and certification systems for sustainable production.

Mining companies too need large tracts of land. As most mining in Indonesia involves open-pit mining, the environmental consequences are typically horrendous, as first the overburden has to be removed, vegetation and all.

And although the contract states that this has to be put back in place when the operations end, the reality is more difficult. Second, disposing of the mine tailings is a difficult and expensive process, and often causes environmental accidents resulting in toxic material spilling into the surroundings.

Whether the mining sector will eventually adhere to rules and regulations of environmental sustainability remains to be seen. The environmental management plans do outline and specify the various measures needed to safeguard the environment, but unfortunately examples of [accidental] environmental catastrophes, such as the discharge of toxic matter into the environment, are still far too common. Total avoidance of mining disasters would require the closure of the mines, which is not really a viable solution.

Dompetku Money Transfer Connected with TML in Malaysia

For those who have relatives overseas or are involved in business deals with people abroad should no longer worry about sending the money from overseas to Indonesia because now Indosat Ooredoo Dompetku Money Transfer provides remittances from abroad to Indonesia through Skrill.

Skrill is a member of Paysafe Group that is also one of the e-money authorized issuers in Europe with about 40 million customers and 180,000 merchants, which has been processing transactions up to €16 billion per year. Today, Skrill has been operating in over 40 currencies in more than 200 countries, including Germany, France, Sweden, England, Russia, Australia, Singapore, USA, New Zealand and Slovenia.

Dompetku Money Transfer services – Skrill, which is accessible 24 hours a day, can be used to send money from all over the world to Indonesia using an online system. The

sender from abroad will only need to set up a Skrill account to be topped up using a credit card or bank transfer, and soon after the money is sent to the recipient’s Indosat mobile wallet. The funds will be transferred into the receiver’s Indosat Dompetku account within seconds (real time), In Malaysia, Dompetku Money Transfer is connected with TML outlets which can be found easily in the country. With TML, senders would need to visit the outlet to send the money to the beneficiary account, which is the recipient’s Indosat mobile wallet. The transfer fee is quite competitive; RM1 during the promo period until October 31st 2016.

These funds can be used immediately after cash withdrawals from Indosat’s partner locations, among them: Indosat outlets, Alfamart and Alfamidi. Alternatively, funds can be transferred into the bank account in Indonesia (members of ATM Bersama network) with normal transfer rates. If the funds are not withdrawn in cash, then they could be used to purchase phone credit (all carriers), game vouchers, TV vouchers, insurance policies; make donations; shop directly at the aforementioned minimarkets (Alfamart, Indomaret and Alfamidi); or be used to make bill payments such as telephone bills, pay TV, water, internet and many more.

In addition to international money transfer services, Dompetku Domestic Money Transfer is also available in Alfamart and partnered mini markets, Indosat outlets, *789# services or from your Dompetku application services for domestic remittance. These services allow customers to send and receive cash throughout Indonesia directly and within seconds.

Secure, fast, and easy - Dompetku Money Transfer.

issue 170 Indonesia expat

21

EXPAT OUTREACH WORTHY CAUSES

H U B FO R C YCLI ST

Cycling for a Greener City In Jogjakarta, bicycle community HUB For Cyclist aims to create a green environment through alternative ways.

BY CAR ANISSA DJATMIKO

For some of us, cycling is better known as a form of sport or a mere hobby. Founder of HUB (Hibah Untuk Berkelanjutan or Grants for Sustainability) For Cyclist Jamaludin Latif, however, finds the activity to be more than a means of transportation, but a way for people to channel their awareness for a much greater concern.

Since 2010, members of HUB For Cyclist, a group of cyclists who ride all types of bicycles like city bikes, low riders and even cruisers, have been active in cleaning up landfill areas around Java’s cultural hub of Jogjakarta. Working to provide solutions for environmental issues, Latif thinks that a devoted cycler should also take on the role of an environmental activist: “We [HUB For Cyclist] hold this view that cyclers should also have an awareness of their surroundings since bicycles run slowly. With this kind of speed, a cycler has the opportunity to observe the environment around him as he rides.”

As a community, HUB For Cyclist runs various kinds of campaigns, ranging from cleaning up the city; providing Ijolan Sampah, a market which applies the system of exchanging used materials with plastic waste; and also setting up Pitpaganda (bicycles for propaganda), an alternative media business that raises awareness of the city’s worsening environmental state.

Pitpaganda, which is their latest project, was established to promote important issues through cycling. Latif and about 15 members who work in the business are able to express their concerns for waste problems in Jogjakarta as they ride.

“Instead of constantly protesting, we should provide solutions, so we built this alternative media by using bicycles that go around the city promoting important messages and other related information to the public in ways that are ecofriendly, pollution-free, unique, interactive, cheap, and also safe for the city,” Latif describes.

Another big issue that Jogjakarta faces is none other than air pollution. Similar to other major cities across Indonesia, the city struggles with worsening traffic due to the increasing number of private vehicles on the roads. This, according to Latif, does not only threaten the environment, but also the public’s health and psychological wellbeing.

For one, polluted air can lead to an array of diseases such as cancer, asthma, stroke and heart disease. But even in smaller cases, high levels of air pollution can disrupt a person’s concentration which will eventually lead to stress while driving. “Polluted air means people can’t stand being on the road for too long. If they get stuck in traffic in hot weather, they get increasingly angry and frustrated,” Latif says. “The public will not enjoy the city; they will always be in a rush.”

The level of discipline among drivers adds to the problem when they oftentimes break traffic rules, leading to more accidents in Jogjakarta, the city that was once known as ‘the city of culture and bicycles’.

Latif recalls a time when Jogjakarta’s mayor used to apply Segosegawe (cycling to school and work), a rule which asked its citizens to cycle every Friday. But these days, the government has yet to show an interest in building proper infrastructure for cyclists like parking spots and laneways, as well as addressing the problem of pollution and high congestion.

“The streets can no longer be expanded. As long as the government sides with motor vehicles, then their policies will remain contrasted with the go-green spirit,” Latif says.

Despite the government’s lack of support, Latif urges the public to help alleviate worsening traffic by abandoning their private motorized vehicles and opting for public transportation instead. Alternatively, he believes that riding bicycles is important, especially when it can develop into a massive movement like HUB For Cyclist, which continues to criticize the government, reminding them to take charge in restoring the city back to its former glory.

Aside from Jogjakarta, Surabaya, Bandung and Jakarta are also seeing more and more people becoming cyclists. For Latif, this is a good start for Indonesia because there are many countries around the globe that have exchanged riding motor vehicles with bikes in order to build a healthier and more eco-friendly lifestyle.

As for his wishes for HUB For Cyclist, Latif hopes that the community can encourage the government to fulfil their responsibilities. “Hopefully our movement can be an inspiration for the government to immediately repair the city more seriously for the sake of the people as well as for future generations.”

So, citizens of Indonesia, are we ready to take up riding bicycles for a greener country?

For more information please visit www.pitpaganda.com

Dua Tangan Cukup

Actions From Across The Archipelago

Help Sumatran Tigers Leony and Eva Return to the Wild Indonesia faces the very serious issue of wildlife trafficking, which remains big business. Endangered animals are in fact still caught by poachers, sold in illegal markets, or even kept as pets.

This species is on the brink of extinction if their habitat is not immediately protected.

For that reason, ASTI considers Leony and Eva to be hope for the population of tigers and plans to provide them with the best care possible to prepare them for their journey ahead. ASTI is aiming to collect US$13,200 to cover the cost of food and medical attention for one full year so that both tigers can eventually be rereleased into the wild in good health.

Two Sumatran tigers, Leony and Eva, were victims of wildlife trafficking – one was kept in a private home in Jakarta and the other was living in an illegal zoo in West Java.

Luckily, both tigers were rescued by the West Java Department of Natural Resources Management (BKSDA) together with a number of groups including Animal Sanctuary Trust Indonesia (ASTI), a non-profit organization that rescues, rehabilitates and releases wild animals that have either been trafficked, are kept illegally as pets, or have been displaced, normally due to the destruction of their habitats.

ASTI is determined to make an effort to return Leony and Eva to the place they truly belong: the wild. Both majestic tigers, however, still require care and attention during their

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rehabilitation before they are ready to be released into the forests of Sumatra.

Returning these tigers to their natural habitat is extremely important as tigers are becoming increasingly endangered.

According to the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) in a report conducted in April 2016, the population of tigers in Indonesia is decreasing rapidly, with only about 400 Sumatran tigers left in the wild today, which renders them ‘critically endangered’.

If you’d like to help Leony and Eva be given a second chance to return home to the wild, please make a donation to: https://gogetfunding.com/second-chance-for-traffickedsumatran-tigers-leony-and-eva For more information about ASTI, please visit: www.animalsanctuarytrustindonesia.org

The St. Regis Bali Resort Ranks Number 35 on 100 Best Hotels in the World Eighteen die during Eid al-Fitr from fatigue and accidents on day-long ‘mudik’ traffic jam Central Java Police in the Brebes regency in Central Java have confirmed that as many as 18 people died during a “horror” traffic jam that lasted over 20 hours on the eve of Eid al-Fitr celebrations, July 5.

Road users travelling from Jakarta to Tegal on the East Brebes toll road had to endure hours in traffic jams. Reports varied on the amount of time people waited as traffic came to a standstill, with some saying the jam lasted for 35 hours.

Brebes chief medical officer Sri Gunadi Parwoko said that 12 of the victims died from fatigue, while five died during an

accident at a road crossing, and another of undisclosed reasons.

According to Lensa Indonesia, some of those who died from fatigue had congenital diseases made worse from the stress and heat of being stuck in traffic.

Parwoko also said that it was difficult to reach those who were suffering, as ambulances and motorbikes were impeded by the slow-moving vehicles and could not locate the victims in time.

Many, if not all, of those travelling were attempting to reach their hometowns in time to celebrate Eid, which marks the end of Ramadhan.

Bali The St. Regis Bali Resort is proud to announce that the resort has been recognized by Travel + Leisure as one of the “100 Best Hotels in the World”, ranked number 35 in July 2016. This beachfront resort was selected among numerous hotels and resorts in the world due to its prime location, bespoke service, luxurious rooms and amenities, exquisite food and beverage offerings, and the overall value mounting to a total score of 96.22 out of 100.

Travel + Leisure is a premium travel magazine based in New York, United States. It is a one-stop resource for sophisticated travellers who crave travel tips, news and information about the most exciting destinations in the world. Its travel guides, which are curated by Travel + Leisure editors and a network of local

correspondents, highlight the best hotels, restaurants, shops, bars, and things to do in the world’s most exciting destinations.

The suite and villa-only resort boasts 123 beautifully appointed accommodations that reflect luxurious Balinese-inspired living right on the white sand beach of Nusa Dua. Its signature St. Regis Butler Service promises bespoke service with personalized touches.

Since its opening in 2009, The St. Regis Bali Resort has been granted a number of prestigious awards and accolades such as the Condé Nast Traveler – Readers’ Choice Awards 2015, Condè Nast Traveler Gold List in 2016, and Condé Nast Johansens Awards of Excellence in 2016. As the first St. Regis hotel opened in Asia, the resort is devoted to continuing its distinctive legacy of its brand in Bali.

Arwana awarded an accolade at 2016 World Luxury Restaurant Awards Bali The Laguna Resort & Spa in Bali’s Nusa Dua has announced that its gourmet seafood restaurant, Arwana, has recently won ‘Indonesia’s Best Luxury Seafood Restaurant’ at the 2016 World Luxury Restaurant Awards™. The awards night was held at the Grand Hotel Kronenhof Pontresina, Switzerland in mid June.

Number of expat workers on the decline

World Luxury Restaurant Awards™ inspires excellence and ignites healthy competition in the Luxury Restaurant Industry. It also enables restaurants to compete in their chosen category, from a list of 78 categories. World Luxury Restaurant Awards™ selects its winner based on the category for which the restaurant should be renowned, further attracting more attention, not only from food experts, journalists and gourmands, but from a host of visitors from around the globe.

SOURCE: INDONESIA-INVESTMENTS.COM

Indonesia The number of expat workers in Indonesia is declining following persistently low commodity prices and stricter regulations regarding the hiring of expats from the government. In the first five months of 2016 a total of 72,399 temporary residential permits (including renewals) were issued to expats. In 2015, the number of expat workers in Indonesia reached 171,944 and has been on a steady decline since 2011 when the commodity slowdown re-emerged.

Low commodity prices is the main reason behind a decrease in exploration and production in the oil and gas sectors. Several big foreign players have announced plans to reduce or cease their activities altogether; Chevron Indonesia, a unit of the US-based Chevron Corporation, announced earlier this

year that it will return all its oil and gas assets in the East Kalimantan block back to the Indonesian government in October 2018. Meanwhile, France-based Total and Japan-based Inpex – each commanding a 50 percent stake in the Mahakam block – will see their production sharing contract with the Indonesian government expire in 2017 because the Indonesian government will not extend the contracts.

Instead, Indonesia's state-owned energy firm Pertamina and the regional East Kalimantan government will obtain a 70 percent stake in the block (after 2017), while the remaining 30 percent will be split between Total and Inpex. These developments are set to further curtail the number of foreign workers in Indonesia in the future.

The number of expats living and working in Indonesia does impact the local economy, as this group are ‘big spenders’ while also creating employment for many Indonesians from lower classes. An expat family living in a house will, for example, usually hire one or more housemaids or nannies, drivers, gardeners and guards. With the return of expats to their home countries, these Indonesian workers will be required to find new jobs elsewhere.

Indonesian property owners are facing challenges renting out their higher-class houses and apartments due to the decline in foreign workers. Meanwhile, it has also been reported in local media that enrolment in international schools has fallen over the past few years. issue 170 Indonesia expat

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* Answers in the next edition!

CROSSWORD Across

1. (New) office for the Met (8,4) 9. Name (5) 10. Judged over a long period to be of high quality (7) 11. Bracken (4) 12. 1952 Olympic Games venue (8) 14. Urge strongly (6) 15. Long John Silver, for instance (6) 18. Supersede and replace (8) 20. Help (in a crime?) (4) 22. Substance burning in a censer (7) 23. It’s bigger than a viola, but smaller than a double bass (5) 24. It features on the head of a cowboy (3-6,3)

DOWN

2. Inflammation of the nose and throat (7) 3. Plant with trunk (which families have) (4) 4. Sagittarius – bowman (6) 5. Car adapted for acceleration race (8) 6. Admiral and circumnavigator, 1697-1762 (5) 7. Chair once used to punish offenders (7,5) 8. Pompous person (7,5) 13. Country off the southeast coast of India (3,5) 16. Garden plant with five-lobed flowers (7) 17. Poorly (6) 19. Types of nut (5) 21. Image (4)

No riding for gangsters.

Spotted by Josef in Jakarta Send your funny pictures to letters@indonesiaexpat.biz

ANSWERS OF ISSUE 169 ACROSS—1. Toledo 4. Amends 8. Tamil 9. Pullman 10. His dark materials 11. Tudor 12. Materials 17. Heron 19. Austria 21. Luggage 22. Bleak 23. Parody 24. Crayon DOWN—1. Tetchy 2. Lump sum 3. Delta 5. Militia 6. Nomad 7. Sundry 9. Poker face 13. Tankard 14. Surgery 15. Phillip 15. Larkin 18. Roger 20. Sober

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Indonesia expat issue 170

OBSERVATIONS

Mark Heyward has lived and worked in Indonesia for over twenty years. His 2013 book, Crazy Little Heaven, an Indonesian Journey has become a best seller in this country.

Writing the

Indonesian Experience

BY MARK HE Y WARD

W

hen I first arrived in the early ‘90s, it was close to impossible to find any English language books about Indonesia. Things have changed.

The Internet was not yet available back then and there were no English language bookstores. In fact, there were few bookstores of any sort. Gramedia, of course, sold Indonesian books, focusing mainly on how to get better at business or in religion. But outside of Jakarta there was little. When I moved to Lombok in 1999 I could find no bookstores at all, bar a couple of dusty stalls selling pirated copies of school textbooks and technical manuals. The same was true for most of the country.

I used to buy my books in Singapore or Melbourne. I would drive to the outer suburbs where a small store specialized in books about Indonesia and Asia. I bought more or less everything I could find about Indonesia for a general readership. My early collection included Christopher Koch’s The Year of Living Dangerously and Pramoedya Ananta Toer’s Buru Quartet (published in English by Penguin), all of which were then banned in Indonesia. Then there were occasional copies of Inside Indonesia, the only independent source of information and analysis about Indonesian politics and society at the time.

Other early acquisitions included Franz Magnis-Suseno’s marvelous book, Javanese Ethics and World-View (The Javanese Idea of the Good Life), and Bill Dalton’s essential Indonesia Handbook. Conversely, I read Ratih Hardjono’s White Tribe of Asia, an Indonesian view of Australia. But to a book-hungry young man who had fallen in love with Indonesia, the country remained pretty much a mystery. Of course this was how President Suharto intended it.

Twenty-five years later and we are spoiled for choice. Bookshops like Kinokuniya, Books and Beyond, Aksara, and Ganesha cater to English language booklovers, Periplus stores can be found in airports and malls across the country and, every October, the Ubud Readers and Writers Festival celebrates literature from Indonesia and the region. Indonesian bookstores have appeared in malls in most cities, and the 2015 Frankfurt Book Fair featured Indonesia’s flourishing literature scene.

The number of books available, both in English and Indonesian, has exploded. Indonesia’s new breed of novelists is pushing the limits and, thanks to the efforts of the Lontar Foundation and others, many of their works are available in translation. The shelves are also full of books on Indonesia and the Indonesian experience written by sojourners and expatriates. Erudite analyses of Indonesian history, politics, society, environment and religion vie for space with titillating tales of Jakarta’s sex industry and sordid exposes of Bali’s drug scene. And, in between, there is everything from popular history and anthropology to novels and travel tales. The best of these provide new insights, getting under the skin of this diverse and dynamic country, while at the same time entertaining and amusing.

Notable reads in the last year or so include Tim Hannigan’s Raffles and the British Invasion of Java and A Brief History of Indonesia, Elizabeth Pisani’s Indonesia Etc., Andrew Beatty’s A Shadow Falls in the Heart of Java, and Nigel Barley’s In the Footsteps of Stamford Raffles, Toraja: Misadventures of an Anthropologist in Sulawesi, Indonesia, and Island of Demons.

While the market for personal memoirs is crowded, selfpublishing has democratized the industry. Everyone has a story to tell – and now they can tell it. Three books which have had less airtime than the above, but all of which shine a light on Indonesia and the expatriate experience, are Derek Pugh’s Tambora: Travels to Sumbawa and the Mountain that Changed the World, Stanley Harsha’s Like the Moon and the Sun, and Arlo Hennings’ Guitarlo.

Derek Pugh’s story of travel to Sumbawa, published in 2015 on the 200th anniversary of Tambora’s catastrophic eruption, takes the reader from the science of volcanology to history and personal travel narrative. By the end of the book I found myself considering a plan to climb Tambora, thinking very seriously about the risks of living on the Ring of Fire, and hankering for some more offbeat travel.

Tambora is full of stories and characters. We meet the ancient daughter of Bima’s sultan, the child jockeys of Sumbawa Besar, and the doped-out surfies of West Sumbawa. All set against the backdrop of that giant mountain and the havoc it wrought on the planet 200 years ago. Perhaps best of all, Pugh, an Australian expatriate, writes as if he is introducing these characters, telling these stories over a beer at the bar, or perhaps sitting by a campfire on a beach. Tambora is a great yarn.

Stanley Harsha’s Like the Moon and the Sun takes a very different tack. Harsha is a former American diplomat, who first came to Indonesia in the 1980s. Like Pugh and Hennings, he is married to an Indonesian woman and through that marriage has come to know Indonesia. The book tells the story of his marriage and much more; it follows Harsha as he discovers Indonesia and travels the archipelago describing the cultures and politics he encounters through his work.

The book is published by Gramedia, both in English and Indonesian. Through story and reflection, it is an appeal for Indonesians and Americans to get to know one another.

The title, Like the Moon and the Sun, is from an Indonesian proverb that describes a perfect match, the balance of two contrasting peoples and traditions, each enhancing the other. Harsha has a deep understanding of the country and describes Indonesia’s peaceful transition from a dictatorship to the world’s third largest democracy, critically analyzing religion, human rights and the war against terrorism with the perspective of an insider and the benefit of an outsider’s experience. This is a reflective tale written by a serious man, but that seriousness is never allowed to descend into

self-importance, tempered as it is by a sense of humour and a fondness – perhaps ‘love’ is not too strong a word – for Indonesia and its people.

Arlo Hennings’ memoir, Guitarlo, is a very different kind of book. Hennings is a colourful character and, unlike Harsha, that character is reflected in colourful writing. The style is pure rock and roll, over the top, at times fantastical, at times self-confessional, but never dull. At 15 he ran away from home in the US for a life on the streets, falling in with drug-crazed counter-culturalists, narrowly avoiding a lynching by redneck farmers, getting picked up by a busload of hippies and stumbling into the midst of three days of peace, love and music at Woodstock. Following attempts at a ‘normal’ life as a dental mechanic and a travelling salesman, he discovers a talent for music management, which takes him to the heart of the American music industry and subsequently to South Africa.

Hennings’ Indonesian experience contrasts with that of both Pugh and Harsha. His disappointments with Javanese builders and Balinese neighbours, his attempts to establish a homestay in Ubud, his wedding in East Java, his diversion into new-age spiritualism, becoming an unwitting witness in a murder case, and finding a new life in Jogja, all are the experiences of a newcomer, a man who is still coming to grips with his newly adopted home, its culture, language and legal system. But the writing shines with a raw honesty that endears us to the writer, allows us to forgive him his excesses and misadventures: by the end of the book, Arlo has become a friend, a likeable rogue.

English language bookshops in Indonesia: Aksara: www.aksara.com (stores in Kemang, Citos and Pacific Place, Jakarta) Books and Beyond: www.booksbeyond.co.id (40 stores, located in Jakarta, Tangerang, Cikarang, Bandung, Medan, Surabaya, Jogjakarta, Balikpapan, Bali, Manado, Makassar, and Palembang) Ganesha: www.ganeshabooksbali.com (Stores in Ubud and Sanur) Gramedia: www.gramedia.com (Indonesian and English books, stores in most cities) Kinokuniya: www.kinokuniya.co.id (stores in Plaza Senayan and Grand Indonesia) Lontar Foundation: www.lontar.org (Indonesian books in translation, Pejompongan, Jakarta) Periplus: www.periplus.com (40 stores, located in Jakarta, Bali, Jogjakarta, Bandung, Semarang, Surabaya, Lombok and Medan) Ubud Writers and Readers Festival: 26–30 October, 2016 The books reviewed in this article are available on Amazon, or direct from the authors: Derek Pugh: www.derekpugh.com.au Stanley Harsha: www.stanleyharsha.com Arlo Hennings: www.arlohennings.com

issue 170 Indonesia expat

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If you want your event to be posted here, please contact +62 (0) 21 2965 7821 or e-mail: events@indonesiaexpat.biz

EVENTS

Love. Gomez will greet fans in Indonesia Convention Exhibition (ICE), BSD, Tangerang. Tickets a r e now on s a le . For mor e information please visit http:// selenagomezjakarta.com

JAKARTA networking

Jakarta Business Networkers Every Tuesday and Thursday Make the right connections to help develop and grow your business over bre a k fa s t . At Ja k a r t a Business Networkers (JBN), all attendees are encouraged to help other attendees by exchanging referrals and introducing them to their target audience. JBN is all about helping you grow your business. Promote your business, personal brand or portfolio each week to the rest of the attendees and explain to the group the type of referrals you would like to receive. JBN professional networking sessions are from 7–8.30am every Tuesday at Sapori Deli, Fairmont Jakarta, and Thursday at Mercantile Athletic Club, WTC, Sudirman.

RSVP: info@jbnetworkers.com

Salihara International Performing Arts Festival 8 October–6 November 2016 Salihara International Performing Arts Festival is back to bring you more local and international arts groups form various areas including music, dance and theatre. This year, the festival will be showcasing 14-15 groups f rom t he nat ion, a s wel l a s Australia and the United States.

A mong the talents featured, three percussion groups will be highlighting the music section; Indonesian choreographers Eko Supriyanto and Fitri Setyaningsih will be taking the lead in the dance section; and the Kalanari Theatre Movement from Jogjakarta will be taking the theatre stage.

International groups include the dance group Benoît Lachambre & Montréal Danse from Canada, theatre group She She Pop from Germany, and composer Lukas Ligeti from Austria. For more information please visit www. salihara.org

We The Fest 2016 13–14 August 2016 The annual summer music festival We The Fest is back, bringing you bigger international talents. The festival, which also include arts, fashion and food, will entertain music fans with their most exciting line-up so far. Fans will be able to watch music sensations like Macklemore & Ryan Lewis, Mark Ronson, The Temper Trap, and the 1975. The two-day event will be held at Parkir Timur Senayan and is presented by Ismaya Live.

Tickets are available both online and off line, with price starting from Rp.720,000. For more information please visit http:// wethefest.com

arts & culture

of the world’s most inf luential leader experts by Business Insider and Inc. Magazine. In 2014, John C. Maxwell was named as the popular leadership and management expert in the world.

The seminar will take place at The Kasablanka Exhibition. For ticket purchase please visit www. kiostix.com

Young on Top National Conference 13 August 2016 This year, the Young on Top National Conference (YOTNC) will be held for its sixth time to celebrate the young generation of Indonesia. With the theme ‘It’s Millennials Time to Lead this Nation’, YOT NC hopes to inspire the youths of today to become f uture leaders of Indonesia. Commonly referred to as the Y Generation, young people are identified with their association with technology, the Internet and entertainment. To lead the discussions, a number of speakers, including Ben Soebiako (CMO of KapanLagi Network), Achmad Zaky (CEO of Bukalapak. com), and governor of Jakarta, Basuki Tjahaya Purnama. The conference will take place at Kartika Expo, Balai Kartini. For more information please visit www3.kiostix.com leisure

lifestyle. Founded in March 2011, the event invites people to join this paint race which so far has been hosted in over 200 cities and 40 countries every year all around the globe. Racers will get to experience running like never before with a dose of fun, interactivity, and also paint. For more information please visit http://stage.thecolorrun.co.id/

Tough Mudder Bali 1–2 October 2016 Prepare yourself and your team to be challenged by Tough Mudder, the world’s most recognized endurance series. With more than 200 events since 2010 spread across seven different countries globally, this year Tough Mudder will reach more ‘Mudders’ by expanding the series of events to Jimbaran, Bali on October 1-2. Tough Mudder is a 16-20 km obstacle course run designed by British Special Forces to test all round strength, stamina, mental grit, teamwork and camaraderie with the most innovative courses.

Teamwork is needed to complete this challenge with no time to race against. Bring your friends, family and colleagues to join this challenge! Visit www.facebook. com/ToughMudderIndonesia o r w w w. i n s t a g r a m . c o m / t oug h mudde r_ id f or mor e information.

SURABAYA & BANDUNG music

Alive Museum and Alive Star Ancol 25 May–30 July 2016 A s the f irst 3D museum in Indonesia, Alive Museum Ancol showcases artworks like you have never seen before, which include paintings, digital technology, and Alive Star: a collection of Indonesian public figures in wax.

The museum is originally from Korea, with branches in countries around A sia like Singapore, Thailand, Vietnam, China and Istanbul. For more information please visit www.rajakarcis.com

West Australian Ballet’s Once 6-7 August 2016 The West Australian Ballet will be visiting Jakarta for the first time in over 20 years. Presented by t he Austra lia n Emba ss y Jakarta and Ballet.id, the ballet performance ‘Once’ will be held in a two-day show at Teater Jakarta, Taman Ismail Marzuki. As the first ever ballet company to visit Indonesia in an international tour, the West Australian Ballet has decided to give the opportunity for 20 Indonesian dancers to experience what it’s like to be in a ballet company. These dancers, known as the Indonesian Youth Ensemble, will be joining West Australian Ballet in the August show. For more information please visit http://www.ballet.id music

Djakarta Warehouse Project 2016 9 –10 December 2016 One of the most anticipated electronic dance music (EDM) festivals, DWP, will be bringing the greatest party of the year to Jakarta with explosive sounds.

Recognized as the ‘Best EDM Festival of 2015’ according to a number of music publications and with the arrival of guests from more than 30 countries, DWP is looking to recreate the success it has had over the years.

The two-day festival will take place at Jakarta International Expo and Kemayoran (JI. Expo).

Please note that the event is valid for those who are at least 18 years of age. For more information please visit www.rajakarcis.com Conference

Annie the Musical 2–14 August 2016 One of the world’s most famous musicals, Annie, is coming to Jakarta! The musical, which is based on the book by Thomas Meehan, is known for songs like ‘Maybe’, ‘It’s the Hard Knock Life’, and the one that the kids love the most, ‘Tomorrow’. This August, fans can watch the live version of the film in Ciputra Artpreneur in a total of 16 performances.

For more information please v i s i t h t t p://a n n i e j a k a r t a . ciputraartpreneur.com

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Indonesia expat issue 170

Selena Gomez Revival Tour 23 July 2016 Singer and actress Selena Gomez will be in Jakarta this year to promote her second solo album Revival, which made it to the top of the Billboard 200 chart last year. This will mark Gomez’ f i r s t c onc er t i n Indone sia .

Gomez started her career in film, television and music at a young age. Fast forward to 2016, she has sold more than 45 million tracks with hit singles like Come & Get It, Good for You and Same Old

Grand Leadership Seminar with John Maxwell 22 July 2016 Join t he Gra nd L ea dership Seminar to discover new perspectives of learning leadership from John Maxwell. The speakercoach, who is also a New York bestselling author, is named one

The event features an array of exciting activities, including B a l i C a nt at , C hoi r C l i n ic s and Work shops, Eva luation Pe r f o r m a n c e s , F r i e n d s h ip Concerts, Choir Competition, Choir Championship, Grand Prix Championship and Meet the Juries. Members of the clinicians and juries comprise key speakers and choir experts hailing from various countries, among them: Dr. Brady Alfred (USA), Dr. Kinh T. Vu (USA), Eui-Joong Yoon (South Korea), Jean-Baptiste Bertrand (France) and Andreas Sugeng Budiraharjo (Indonesia).

For more information please visit http://bandungchoral.com

Ubud Village Jazz Festival 2016 12–13 August 2016 Ubud Village Jazz Festival is returning for its fourth year to bring you the best talents in jazz music. The festival joins together local and international jazz artists to promote ‘Jazz educ ation in Indonesia’. To raise awareness, Ubud Village Jazz Festival invites volunteers from various backgrounds in art, media, video, design, music and culinary. Indonesia’s top jazz musicians headlining this year include Margie Segers, Oele Pattiselano, Glen Dauna – with his sons Rega and Indra (The Daunas) – Jeffrey Tahalele, and Arief Setiadi. World class bass player Reuben Rogers will also be performing with jazz guitarist Peter Bernstein. For tickets and more information please visit www.ubudvillagejazzfestival.com

BANYUWANGI music

Bambino Preschool Summer Camp 27–29 July 2016 Parents, prepare your kids for a learning journey at Bambino International Preschool with numerous activities that will truly be memorable for your children. Through this year's theme, ‘Funtastic Future Me’ the summer school will give children a chance to think about what they might want to do when they grow up, which helps to motivate t he m a nd e nc ou r a g e t he i r imaginations. Even something as simple as a walk around school can open their eyes to all of the jobs there are in a school. The Summer Camp is only available at Patra Kuningan campus, Jl. Jaya Mandala No. 88, Patra Kuningan, South Jakarta. For reservations and inquiries call or email 021-837-83783 bambino@ bambinopreschool.com or visit www.bambinopreschool.com sports The Color Run by CIMB Niaga 7 August 2016 CIMB Niaga is holding The Color Run to promote a healthy

Boyz II Men Live Indonesia 17–18 August 2016 Indonesia fans of the vocal group Boyz II Men will rejoice as the trio will be visiting for their ‘Boyz II Men Indonesia Tour 2016’.

In August, Shawn Stockman, Nathan Morris and Wanya Morris will be taking over two stages in the country, one in Surabaya on August 17 and one the next day in Bandung. The four-time Grammy winning group has been known for making R&B music with hit singles like ‘I’ll Make Love to You’, ‘End of the Road’, and ‘One Sweet Day’. In Surabaya, the event will take place at Dyandra Convention Center, and the next day at Eldorado stage in Bandung.

T ic k e t s pr ic e r a ng e s f r om Rp.250,000 – Rp.2,000,000.

Tickets are available at http:// tiketapasaja.com/event/boyz-iimen-indonesian-tour-bandung

BALI arts & culture 5th Bali International Choir Festival 25–31 July 2016 Presented by Bandung Choral S oc ie t y, Ba l i Int er nat iona l Choir Festival will showcase both local and international talents, which include individual singers, conductors and choirs.

Ijen Summer Jazz 30 July–22 October 2016 Ja zz lovers w ill rejoice this summer with the rare opportunity to embrace their love for music in the beautiful resort of Jiwa Jawa, Ijen. Set in a beautiful mountainous area, about 300 attendees will be entertained by a number of musicians, whom they get to watch very closely, while also taking in the views of Mount Merapi, Raung, Ranti and Suket. When night falls, guests will be served dinner and have the chance to interact with fellow visitors and musicians.

Performers include local and international musicians: Jean Sebastien Simonviez (France), Pablo Calzado (Cuba) and Patric Lauwerends (The Netherlands).

For more information please visit www.jazzgunung.com

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27

HAVE SOMETHING TO SELL? Looking for something to buy? Looking for staff? Selling property?

Or need a place to live? Why not place your classified ad with Indonesia Expat! Your classified will be placed once for 2 weeks online and once in our printed version which has a circulation of 16.500 copies bi-weekly.

Next deadline: 3 August 2016 CONDITIONS Personal classifieds Commercial classifieds

Free of Charge (50 words max) Rp. 100,000 (0–50 words) Rp. 200,000 (50–100 words)

Property listings are considered as Commercial.

Adding an image incurs an extra charge of Rp.150,000. Business Listings can only be placed on the Business Listings page (p.30) Send in your classifieds to ads@indonesiaexpat.biz

JAKARTA Automotive

USED DUMP TRUCK CAT 777D Excellent Condition Off highway and Articulated Truck. Good D u m p B o d y a n d Ty r e . A l l s ub - a s s e m bl y c o mpl e t e No visible damages noticed.Major Component hours available on request. Reach us at meenakshi. khurana@quippoworld.com Price reduced! 2012 Kijang Innova reduced by $1,500 USD! This car has been outstanding. I really love it, only selling because I am moving. Here are the facts: - 2012, type E - 53K kilometers - black with chrome, - well-maintained, - garaged, - new tires in the front, - automatic transmission - gasoline - tax paid through June 2017 - link to photos: here - location: next to Gelora Bung Karno off of Jalan Sudirman (The Sultan Residence) - asking USD 12,500 or equivalent IDR. You can contact me at jbenjames@ gmail.com or +62(0)8118880194.

Diplomatic car for sale: looking for quick sale due to abrupt end of tenor. Toyota Avanza 2011. Black, manual transmission. 31,000 km Price US$6,500 OBO. Clean, w el l m a i nt a i ne d . Av a i l a ble immediately. Email for pictures sarhads@gmail.com. Call +62(0)81282196482 We are selling our Honda Brio Satya E 2014 Manual Transmission white color . Very fresh in and

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Indonesia expat issue 170

out. Lady driven. 14,000 km reading. First owner. Doubled in audio and airbags. Must see to appreciate. Reason for selling is that We are moving out of the country. Price: Rp. 110 million OBO. WA/ call/ iMessage/ SMS: +62(0)87882840044 Affordable rental car Toyota Avanza new and English speaking driver will be available from the end of July. Car owner is our recommended driver Mr. Wahyu who has worked for us during 3 years. You can contact Mr. Wahyu directly +62(0)81281819452 or email y udhy.wahy udhy@ yahoo.com or contact Tanaka shantishanti7575@gmail.com Jobs Available F u l l T i m e a n d Pa r t T i m e vacancies are now available for experienced English language instructors for corporate courses around Jakarta. Competitive rates and travel allowance are offered. Please send your CV to: recruitment.kpiconsultancy@ gmail.com Pa r t-time Pr ima r y Teacher Position (EXPAT) – Bintaro, Ta n g e r a n g . J o i n a w e l l established IB World School • Native speaker of English (UK, US, CDN, Aussie, NZ) preferred • 5 Years Teaching experience, IB PYP preferred • Team-player, flexible, creative • A deg ree in E duc at ion is required for a Work Permit Please send your application and updated resume with recent photo to hrd@globaljaya.com Services Spanish Tutor: Learn Spanish at your place with a DELE-certified examiner from Spain. Most of my students come from International Schools (JIS and BSJ). Please call me (Raúl) +62(0)82110502786 Email: unascartas@yahoo.com Bahasa Indonesia lessons for expats living in South Jakarta, Kuningan, Country Wood, BSD,

given by instructor with 20 years experience. Flexible schedule.

Plea se ca ll Pa k Chair uman +62(0)8121037466 or email chairuman1942@gmail.com Traditional dances teacher: Hi everyone. I’m Andrini . If there is anyone here who would like to learn Indonesian traditional dances, especially Bali dances, I can teach you in group or personal. Send me an email or contact me on this number +62(0)82111658892 Property For rent 300 houses at Kemang, Cipete, Cilandak, Jeruk Purut, Pondok Indah. Big gardens, swimming pools, USD2,000 5,000. Phone +62(0)816859551 or +62(0)8170093366

A Luxury House available for rent at Jl. Prapanca IV, Kebayoran Baru. Land area 500 sqm, 2 storey Building ± 500 sqm, including 4 Bedrooms, large Living rooms, Mini bar, Dining room, Pantry & Kitchen and medium size of pool with Gazebo. Service area include Servant and Guard rooms, Storage and Garage. Unfurnished condition. Electricity supply 33,000 VA. Located in a quiet residential area. Suitable for VVIP expatriate family and or Staff’s Embassy family. Asking Rent: USD. 5,500.00 per month.

Open house by appointment, call: Agus Djuarta ~ Padua Property Agency. Cell.: +62(0)811 961763 or +62(0)818131152, ema il: adjuarta@yahoo.com A Nice House available for rent at Jl. Duta Indah I, Pondok Indah.

Land area 450 sqm, 2 storey Building ± 400 sqm, including 4 Bedrooms, 1 Study room/Office, Living room and Family room, Dining room, Pantry & Kitchen.

Backyard include terrace and medium size of swimming pool.

Balcony and open terrace. Semi furnished condition. Located in a quiet residential area and close to the Jakarta International School.

A sk ing Rent: USD3,000.00 per mont h, rent payable in equivalent IDR currency. Open house by appointment, call: Agus Djuarta~Padua Property Agency. Cell.: +62(0)811961763 or +62(0)818131152 , ema i l: adjuarta@yahoo.com

A Luxury House available for rent at Jl. Alam Asri V, Pondok Indah.

Land area 280 sqm, 3 storey Building ± 500 sqm, including 5 Bed rooms, L iv ing rooms, Dining room, Pantry & Kitchen and Recreation room at the Attic.

Service area includes Servant and Driver rooms, Storage and Garage. Furnished condition.

Located in a quiet living area and close to the Raffles International School in Pondok Indah. Asking Rent: USD3,500.00 per month.

Rent payable in equivalent of IDR currency. Open house by appointment: Agus Djuarta ~ Padua Property Agency. Cell.: +62(0)811961763 or +62(0)818 131152. email: adjuarta@yahoo. com Nic e A pa r t ment s av a i lable for Rent at Hampton’s Park, Terogong, Jakarta Selatan.

1) Level 5th with city view, Unit size 79 sqm including 2 Bedrooms, 1 Bathroom, Study & Leisure room, Living room, Dining room, Pantry, Service area and balcony.

Service area includes Storage and Toilet. Fully furnished condition.

Asking Rent: USD1,650.00/ month.

2) Level 23rd with incredible golf view. Unit size 105 sqm including 3 Bedrooms, 2 Bathrooms, Living room, Dining room, Kitchen, Service area and balcony. Service area includes Laundry room and Toilet. Fully furnished condition.

Asking Rent: USD2,400.00/ month.

3) Level 3rd Unit size 127.8 Sqm., 3 Bedrooms + 2 Bathrooms, Living room and Dining room. Pantry and laundry room with toilet.

Fully furnished condition. Semi private elevator. Balcony with Golf view. Asking Rent: USD 2,400.00/month.

Ha mpt on’s Pa rk i s lo c at e d not too far from the Jakarta International School and very famous residential complex in South Jakarta for expatriates community. Facilities include Swimming pools, Tennis court, Gymnasium and Fitness center, Jogg ing track and Children Playground. All Rent inclusive of Service Charge and payable in IDR currency. Appointment for visiting unit, call: Agus Djuarta ~ Padua Property Agency +62(0)811 961763 or +62(0)818131152 FOR R E N T! C omf y Fu ll Furnished Apt in A spen Residences Fatmawati. Next to One Belpark Mall. Conveniently

located close to to Citos, Mayapada and Siloam Hospital, 1km to Toll JORR. 18th Floor, with City/Mall View. 102 sqm. 3 Bedrooms.2 Bat h room s. +1 st udy room.

All electronics and appliances incld . Just bring your luggage.

Rent U$1,350 per month (min 6 mths). Incl Svc Charge. Rented by Owner. Santi (+62(0)818874676) email:santimar747@gmail.com.

House for Rent at Jl. H. Junaedi, Cipete. Ver y close t o Lycèe Français Louis-Charles Damais Jakarta/ French International School, JIS terogong/Cilandak, AIS Pejaten/Kemang. The house is very comfortable to live in. The area free flood, secured and comfy.

Still occupied by French familly until June 2016. Rental price US$1,700 per month. Pictures request/viewing appointment Cindy +62(0)8119502075 (SMS/ WA). Email: c.virginia76@gmail. com.

Apartment Kemang Jaya, Ground Floor. The unit located on ground f loor. Size unit 257 sqm with huge terrace, 6 ft to the pool from balcony and tennis yard.

Big garden, indoor and outdoor play g rou nd . E xc el lent! 4+1 bedrooms, 3+1 bathrooms. CCTV every roms + alarms. TV cable + internet connection. Rental price US$3,000 per month-negotiable.

Pictures/viewing by SMS/WA +62(0)8119502075-Cindy. Email c.virginia76@gmail.com Apartment Senopati Suites Ready for Rent. Located at prime area in Senopati. Bussines a rea .

With 131 sqm, 2+1 bed rooms,

private lift, 26th f loor, view to city. FF. USD3,250 per month (negotiable). Pics on request: c.virginia76@gmail.com Viewing by appointment.

requires SoftBank SIM card to activate (or other method). iOS 9.3.2 - Unactivated. Comes with USB cord.

Pick up at Sudirman area. Please feel free to contact via WhatsApp: +62(0)81806912551.

Looking for Work Nanny available: Hello, I’m Vera.

I’m looking a job as a nanny.

Prefer full time but I’m quite f lexible. I do have references letter. I’m available ASAP. You can reach me here +62(0)82110 346643.

Others Still having trouble when topping up your Internet Package & Phone Credit? Ayopop provides a Top Up Solution for Expat. Available for iPhone & Android. · Easily top up internet package & phone credits to any number without *363*99*123... · Top up for other numbers & pay with credit card, deposits, or bank transfer · Chat with customer service 24hrs support via the app Free Dow nloa d. Sea rch for ‘Ayopop’ on AppStore or PlayStore.

For sa le a collec tion of old ceramic from China and Japan, and an old painting works of Hendra Gunawan, Manfong Lee and Lee Mayeur, special c ol le c t or s , i nt er e s t e d c a l l: +62(0)81287558607 We have a variety of rare cycads seeds with very good germination rates guaranteed. Below is a list of available species and we could help you get more email us at ( garypetter@gmail.com)

Cycas cairnsiana Cycas angulata.

Cycas couttsiana , Cycas panzhihuaens, Macrozamia f lexuosa, Macrozamia macdonellii, Macrozamia s t e nome r a , E nc e ph a l a r t o s ma nikensis. Encepha la r tos poggei, Encephalartos horridus and more.

Household Staff Available Looking for a job as driver.

My name is Sugiarto. I Iive in Mampang South Jakarta. I’m 37 years old with work experience at PT. British Petroleum, PT. Weatherford Oil Services. I’m looking for a job as office driver or personal driver. Contact me at +62(0)817129515.

For Sale iPhones for sale! iPhone 5s 32GB (black). Rp.3,000,000. Purchased in U.S. Carrier SIM free, iOS 9.3.2 - Unactivate. Comes with USB cord, plug, ear phones. iPhone 4 s 16GB ( bla ck), Rp 500,000. Purchased in Japan.

Carrier locked to SoftBank requires SoftBank SIM card to activate (or other method). iOS 9.3.2 - Unactivated. Comes with USB cord. iPhone 4 s 16GB (wh it e), Rp 500,000. Purchased in Japan.

Carrier locked to SoftBank -

BALI Jobs Available Sales Consultant Wanted in Bali.

Must have excellent written and spoken English. Sales experience a bonus – full training provided.

Very generous remuneration.

Send resume to ca reers@ aberdeenhouse.com.au L o ok i ng f or d o g lo v e r s: A beachfront resort in Gianyar is looking for a dog lover for our full breed Golden Retrievers. Mother, 8 years old and her two daughters (4 years old) need loving care. Can somebody take care for them, on daily basis, 3 hours daily. Reply (email) to mayahtliem@gmail. com Property

setting – in the rice fields. Sleeps 6 - ideal for family or couples Free daily breakfast. Driver avail on request. Your own personal villa cook. Yoga and meditation plat for m . C o c k t a i l s ser ve d poolside at sunset. Complimentary guided local village tour. Security 24 hrs. Read latest guest reviews on trip advisor. Villa Damee – a peaceful stay in Bali w w w. villadamee.com info@villadamee.com Brand new 2BR + pool villa with view for lease 45,000 USD for 10 yrs or sale 115,000 USD and 3BR 3FL simple house with AC/WH for lease 35,000 USD for 10 yrs.

Owner +62(0)81338549888.

Perfect for hostel and villas rental biz startup with only 120,000 USD. You can own and manage 10 beds small hostel, 2 storey 2 beds villa and 1 storey 2 beds villa. Total 120,000 USD for 10 yrs lease. +62(0)81338549888.

Looking for Household Staff Pemba nt u ne e de d , fem a le , experienced, English: info@ bungadesavillas.com

MEDAN Property Getaway to Ubud, Bali – Stay at Steph and Dave's Private Villa in Ubud, Bali. SPECIAL deal runs June 15 to July 31. Girls weekend away or Short Break in Bali . 3 Bedroom Private Pool Villa in rice fields. Authentic Balinese stay in a traditional village. 4.5 kms from Ubud. Quiet, peaceful

Emergency Sale: Land in Medan.

202.5m 2 Tanah milik - house with electricity. Rp.300 million or very near offer. Investment opportunity? Title deed here in Jakarta. No agents. Contact owner Ibu Lily: +62(0)81213995099 Email: terry@fullproofservices. net issue 170 Indonesia expat

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Indonesia expat issue 170

issue 170 Indonesia expat

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Indonesia expat issue 170