Indonesia Expat - issue 121

L AV E

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Formerly JAK ARTA EXPAT and BALI EXPAT

IS SUE NO. 121

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2 JULY – 15 JULY 2 014

JA K A R TA • JAVA • B A L I • LOMBOK • K A L IM A N TA N • SUM AT R A • SUL AW E SI • W E S T PA P UA

W W W.INDONE SI A E X PAT.BIZ

Rp. 25.000

ISEN MULANG DAYAK FESTIVAL THE JULY 9 ELECTION: A TOSS UP SAILING THE SPICE ISLANDS IN SEARCH OF THE SALVADOR DALI SPONGE IN GORONTALO SOUTH SOLOK: HOME OF 1,000 'RUMAH GADANG' MEET JULIA SIMENS, A BALIKPAPAN EXPAT

INDONESIA'S

Mountains of Fire

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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

The Heat is On

Indonesia's Largest Expatriate Readership

Editor in Chief Angela Richardson angela@indonesiaexpat.biz

however a reported 40% of the population is still undecided and their votes could go either way. To find out more, please turn to page 20 for renowned political writer, Taufik Darusman’s thoughts on the upcoming elections.

Editorial Assistant Gabriella Panjaitan gaby@indonesiaexpat.biz

Management Edo Frese edo@indonesiaexpat.biz

Sales & Distribution Dian Mardianingsih Betty de Haan ads@indonesiaexpat.biz

Graphics Frederick Ng fred@indonesiaexpat.biz

Finance & Admin Lini Verawaty

Contributors Ian Burnet Polly Christensen Taufik Darusman Gregg A. Hollomon David Metcalf Dan Quinn Eamonn Sadler Graeme Steel Donny Syofyan Intan Tanjung LL. Wing Kenneth Yeung

Editorial Enquiries letters@indonesiaexpat.biz

Circulation Enquiries

IT’S GETTING VERY CLOSE to the Presidential Elections on July 9th with Jokowi-Kalla and Prabowo-Hatta practically neck and neck in electability polls. In May, the pre-election surveys showed Jokowi-Kalla at 52.73% over Prabowo-Hatta at 47.27%. In June this changed to 48.82% for JokowiKalla and Prabowo-Hatta rising to 52.25%. Predictions for July say that Prabowo-Hatta will be even further ahead at 54.25% compared to only 45.75% for Jokowi-Kalla,

Last issue, our feature article delved into the relationship between Australia and Indonesia, and on the third presidential candidate debate, where the theme was international politics, this very same topic came up.

Prabowo said, “We need to convince Australia that we want to be a good neighbour and we’re not planning to do anything bad.” Jokowi’s thoughts were that there weren’t enough people-topeople relationships between both countries and that dialogue would help to solve any disputes.

I’m currently helping to arrange a cultural visit for students at Monash University in Melbourne, Australia, visiting Jogjakarta and

Jakarta this month. The students are coming here to learn about Indonesian culture, as well as meet and learn about organizations involved in environmental and social work in these two Java cities. It is these kinds of trips among the younger generation, the future generation, which will be most beneficial to strengthen the ties between our neighbouring countries and I relish the opportunity to be involved. As with most things in life, the key is knowledge and through travelling and experiencing things, we gain this wisdom.

This is a special issue themed ‘The Ring of Fire’, where we bring you travel stories from across this colourful archipelago that we call home. Our feature story is by Gunung Bagging website founder, Dan Quinn, and he takes you on a tour of some of his favourite volcanoes to hike in Indonesia, of which there are hundreds to choose from! Underwater photographer,

Gregg A. Holloman takes us in search of the mysterious Salvador Dali sponges in Gorontalo, North Sulawesi, to discover what all the fuss is about. David Metcalf aka ‘Dayak Dave’ brings the sights, sounds and glorious colours of the Isen Mulang Dayak festival to you through his words and renowned photography, and Donny Syofyan takes us on a tour of South Solok, a place with 1,000 rumah gadang, the beautiful spired-roof houses of the Minangkabau in Sumatra.

This and much more, we hope you enjoy travelling through our stunning archipelago with us this issue.

Please remember to take nothing but photos and leave nothing but footprints. Happy travels!

Angela Richardson Editor in Chief

info@indonesiaexpat.biz

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LETTER TO THE EDITOR

Events events@indonesiaexpat.biz

Published by

Hello Indonesia Expat,

Dear Alexandra,

PT. Koleksi Klasik Indonesia Jl. Kemang Raya No. 29A Kemang, Jakarta,Indonesia Phone: 021 7179 4550 Fax: 021 7179 4546 Office hours: 09.00 – 17.00 Monday – Friday

I’ve never really written a letter to a publication before, but I just had to comment on this. Your last couple of editions have had exceptional cover photos!

Thank you for writing and we’re so glad you have been enjoying our cover photos!

INDONESIA EXPAT IS PUBLISHED BI-WEEKLY BY PT. KOLEKSI KLASIK INDONESIA. OPINIONS EXPRESSED IN THIS PUBLICATION ARE THOSE OF THE WRITERS AND THE PUBLISHER DOES NOT ACCEPT ANY RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY ERRORS, OMMISIONS, OR COMPLAINTS ARISING THERE FROM. NO PARTS OF THIS PUBLICATION CAN BE REPRODUCED IN WHOLE OR IN PART, IN

I enjoy photography and I have to say that your cover photos have been a joy to look at, especially the one from an issue in June, ‘We Love Bali Safe’ by Orly Even and the OneWave cover from the issue after that

by Nick Geraldi — they’re ripe with bright and happy colours. It captures how vibrant Bali is and the spirit of the people, exactly why I moved to the island in the first place. Keep it going!

PRINT OR ELECTRONICALLY WITHOUT PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHER. ALL TRADEMARKS, LOGOS, BRANDS AND

All the best!

DESIGNS ARE COPYRIGHT AND FULLY RESERVED BY PT. KOLEKSI KLASIK

Alexandra K. Bali

INDONESIA.

The Cover Anak Krakatau erupting Pictured by Angela Richardson

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Orly Even is indeed a talented photographer and Nick Geraldi really did capture the mood of the OneWave Fluro Friday event at Canggu Beach. We hope you enjoy this issue’s cover photo, which we feel captures the essence of this issue’s theme of ‘The Ring of Fire’. This particular photo is of Anak Krakatau in the Sunda Strait, off the west coast of Java, and was captured by one of us, actually. We had just finished climbing up this growing volcano and were safely back on the liveaboard when the volcano suddenly, and quite violently, started to erupt! There was even an electrical storm happening in the ash cloud – it was an amazing sight and not

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one we will forget. This photo shows nature’s wrath and beauty at the same time, and is a reminder of how alive this archipelago really is. We hope you like it.

Enjoy this issue and thanks again for your kind words!

Indonesia Expat Editorial Team

Now available on

WHEN YOU HAVE FINISHED READING THIS MAGAZINE PLEASE RECYCLE IT.

Issue 121

Contents

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Featured Indonesia's Mountains of Fire

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Meet the Balikpapan Expat Julia Simens

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Meet the Bali Expat Michael Palmieri

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Travel: Sulawesi The Salvador Dali Quest

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Faces of Indonesia Rut Dini: The River Guardian

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Travel: Maluku Sailing the Spice Islands

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Travel: Borneo Isen Mulang — A Cultural Extravaganza

15

Food and Drink A Night at Charlie's

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Travel: Java Mount Bromo — Where Heaven and Hell Meet

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Travel: Sumatra South Solok — A Place with One Thousand Rumah Gadang

20

Politics The July 9 Election: A Toss-up

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Scams in the City Everything to Lose

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Worthy Causes Plastic is not Fantastic

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Light Entertainment Beer Goggle Bikers

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Announcements

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Movie Selamat Pagi, Malam —Good Morning, Night

Events

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Classifieds

30

Business Directory

15

I CAN’T BELIEVE YOU DON’T HAVE LIFE INSURANCE! FOR MORE INFORMATION AND QUOTATIONS PLEASE E-MAIL INFO@GMS-FINANCIAL.COM OR CALL (021) 520 3574

PT ARIPA MAKMUR PERSADA Graha Aktiva (American Express Building) 4 th Floor, Suite 405, Jl. H. R. Rasuna Said, Kuningan, Jakarta 12950 - Indonesia

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FEATURED

Indonesia’s Mountains of Fire Words and Photos By Dan Quinn

First light as seen from the summit of Gunung Tambora

Gunung Kaba

W

ith approximately 127 active volcanoes spread across the country, it can be difficult to know where to begin if you haven't climbed one before. Many great Indonesian volcanoes are actually not too far from provincial airports or major train stations in Java and southern Sumatra, and can therefore be explored in a single weekend. The more remote mountains, particularly those in the Moluccas, Sulawesi and Nusa Tenggara, are usually best enjoyed as the highlights of a week-long itinerary across a far-flung region. Individually, the following five hikes represent different volcanically-active regions of Indonesia. In all cases it is important to return the same way that you ascended unless other options are specified.

Although the behaviour of these gunung-gunung api (mountains of fire) can be predicted to a reasonable degree, it is vital to check with Indonesia's Volcanological Survey website (http://www.vsi.esdm.go.id/) for status updates and also to take heed of what local people in the village nearest to the volcanoes tell you. When East Java's Gunung Kelud erupted in February of this year, local people knew this was imminent as local animals began to flee the forest 48 hours in advance. If you follow advice, then generally speaking it is more dangerous to cross a road in Jakarta than to climb a volcano.

Gunung Kaba

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Gunung Papandayan

Sumatra (1,952m) Known to many locals as 'Bukit Kaba' (Kaba Hill) despite it being almost 2,000 metres high, this volcano attraction is one of Sumatra's most accessible. As is the case with mountain peaks in most parts of the archipelago, the best time to enjoy the views and take photographs from the crater rim is first light. From the entrance gates you can either spend two hours hiking on foot up to the rim or cheat by taking an ojek (motorcycle taxi)! The volcano actually consists of several craters, both active and inactive. A circuit of the largest craters takes about two and a half hours and is not technically difficult. One of the eastern craters is likely something out of Star Wars — a deep belching pit of smoke with a blue-green lake at the bottom of it. Plant lovers should be sure to ask about local Rafflesia blooming in the area because they can be found growing wild very close to the main road in this region.

GETTING THERE: Either fly into Bengkulu and take a seat in a 'travel' (shared cars) towards Lubuk Linggau or make your way up to Lubuk Linggau on the night train from Palembang before boarding a bus (or 'travel') onwards towards Curup. Ask for 'simpang Bukit Kaba' (the junction) or Villa Hijau which is one of the closest hotels on the main road.

Gunung Papandayan Java (2,675m) Despite the bumpy road leading up to the crater, Papandayan makes for one of the very best days out in the whole of Java.

If you live in Bandung you could do it as a day trip. There is a car-park, a guide’s post and several warungs (small shops) next to the main active crater and this parking area is somewhat bizarrely known as Camp David locally! The place can get quite busy during weekends. To what extent you explore the range is entirely up to you. You could take the family there for an hour's stroll around the main crater with many active fumaroles and hot bubbling mud, or make a whole day or weekend of it by continuing on to Pondok Salada and the many mysterious Edelweiss-covered meadows higher up. For the most adventurous hikers, it is possible to follow the wide cobbled track onto the saddle between the main range and the outlying Gunung Puntang, past the remains of the Ghober Hut (no longer standing on my last visit) right the way over the range and down the other side towards the vast and remote tea plantations near Cileuleuy.

GETTING THERE: From Jakarta, head towards Bandung and continue to the end of the toll road, following signs for Garut. The best place to stay is Cipanas ('hot water', not to be confused with the town of the same name in the Puncak area) just outside Garut itself and about 45 minutes away from the crater car-park above Cisurupan.

Dan Quinn is editor of Gunung Bagging and lives near Stornoway Airport.

Gunung Lewotolo

Gunung Gamkonora

East Nusa Tenggara (1,449m)

North Maluku (1,571m)

Known also as 'Ile Api' by local people, this continually steaming volcano sits on its very own peninsula on the island of Lembata. It is best done as a strenuous day-hike from Desa Lama above Desa Jontana, where you should try to find a guide as Desa Lama is often deserted. If you visit in October, you may witness the special pre-Christian Bean Festival in Desa Lama and surrounding villages, which honours the local bean that has been important as a source of protein in local cuisine for many centuries.

Gamkonora is the highest peak on the island of Halmahera, and is something of a hidden gem, being considerably less famous — and also less dangerous – than its fiery neighbour Gunung Gamalama on the island of Ternate.

Very few tourists make it out here. It can be climbed as a long day-hike if you are able to start the climb very early in the morning, which is also especially important for enjoying the views. Ask in nearby Desa Baru for a guide or two.

The climb is a steep ascent of around four hours up a vague and unsignposted trail and is only undertaken a handful of times per year. Suddenly, just as the climb seems to be getting too steep for comfort, you find yourself peering over the other side into the shallow crater, which is easily one of the most photogenic locations in eastern Indonesia. From the northern peak, on a particularly clear day, you should be able to see Ile Boleng on the island of Adonara, and the remote, smoking Batu Tara island volcano out in the ocean.

The higher, southern peak is so gassy and smoky that it would be very unwise to try to climb to the very top.

The trail starts near sea level — so you will need several extra bottles of drinking water — and leads up through coconut, nutmeg and clove plantations. A small collection of coins in an area of long cane grass marks the point as where the mountain becomes sacred in the eyes of the villagers, so your guide may wish to stop briefly and say a prayer here. Not long after this you will be above the vegetation line, wandering up over small rocks and admiring the stunning views over the U-shaped crater.

GETTING THERE: There is a daily direct flight into Lewoleba from Kupang, West Timor. Alternatively, take a boat to Lewoleba from Larantuka at the eastern tip of Flores. The foot of the volcano is about one hour from the town of Lewoleba where there are several basic hotels.

GETTING THERE: Fly in to Ternate and take a Jailolobound boat from the Dufa-dufa ferry terminal. Cars can be hired from the shop next door to Jailolo's Hotel Camar for the two-hour journey on to the trailhead, which is on the main road opposite the volcanology post.

“AS IS THE CASE WITH MOUNTAIN PEAKS IN MOST PARTS OF THE ARCHIPELAGO, THE BEST TIME TO ENJOY THE VIEWS AND TAKE PHOTOGRAPHS FROM THE CRATER RIM IS FIRST LIGHT.”

Gunung Lewotolo

Gunung Gamkonora

Gunung Tambora West Nusa Tenggara (2,722m)

This world-class volcano is a demanding proposition, both in terms of the hike itself and getting to the starting point on the island of Sumbawa. The crater is Indonesia's largest at around 7km diameter and several hundred metres deep, and was formed in April 1815 when 160 cubic kilometres of material were ejected into the atmosphere. This disrupted global temperatures and caused the significant crop failure of the 'Year without Summer' of 1816 in the northern hemisphere. The Tambora eruption was considerably more devastating both locally and globally than the more famous Krakatau (Krakatoa) eruption which came later the same century in 1883.

Thankfully, Tambora does not at present pose a serious threat, and interest in hiking to the rim is growing in the run-up to the bicentenary next year.

You need at least one night of camping on the mountain, although most would be more comfortable spending two nights up there. All hikers are required to register near the trailhead in the village of Pancasila where local guides and porters can be found. It is a long eight or nine hours up to the crater rim, which might be best broken into two stages. Camping on the rim is a spectacular experience but not easy due to the black volcanic sand, which is difficult to keep tent pegs secured to. The view from the top is among Indonesia's very best, with the vast 'volcanic canyon' below you on one side and a sunset over Lombok's Rinjani on the other.

Gunung Tambora

GETTING THERE: Fly to Bima via Denpasar and then spend the best part of a day getting to Pancasila on the Tambora peninsula. Alternatively, larger groups could fly into Sumbawa Besar and charter a boat from the port of Badas to Calabai.

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MEET THE BALIKPAPAN EXPAT

Julia Simens Meet Julia Simens, an international relocation consultant with years of experience under her belt. She helps global families transition to new environments and new cultures.

By Gabriella Panjaitan

Julia Simens and family

The Simens family with grandpa Simens

letting it get swept under the rug. Any change is emotional, but that doesn’t mean it has to be negative.

Where are you from, Julia? Why did you decide to move to Balikpapan?

I’m from Kansas, USA. The reason for the move was to follow my heart. I returned to the USA to get my M.A. in Clinical Psychology when I met and fell in love with Kevin.

We enjoy the adventure of living and working abroad as an expat family. We have lived on five continents, both of us doing jobs we love. Kevin took a posting with his company to work in Balikpapan. We moved here in November 2012.

What are your daily activities in Balikpapan at the moment?

Living in Balikpapan, I love to work in my garden. I grow herbs for cooking and flowers to share with friends. I spend a lot of time working on the computer. I currently do speaking engagements around the world. I get hired by schools, PTAs and organizations to talk about transitions and what we can do to help our children in this global lifestyle and how to work within a school system to get the best for everyone.

What drove you into the cultural adjustment counselling world? Has this been a lifelong passion of yours?

I have always loved children. When I was in college I was awarded a scholarship to take a voyage around the world teaching children in 10 different countries. I fell in love with the art of working with young children and their families worldwide. As an increasing number of children are being raised in foreign countries, as their parents are being sent abroad by their businesses or government agencies or they are people who want to see the world, I felt there was a need to help these families in global transition.

What are the main issues to tackle when first moving to a new country?

To me, the biggest challenge always seems to be to give up the stereotypes that you already have about the new location and to be able to genuinely understand it for what it is. There are plenty of news and travel stories about destinations around the world, Indonesia included, but they typically focus on the best (ideal vacation spots, for example) or the worst (places to avoid because of high crime rates, etc.). There is seldom any reality check on what is normal for that area, most of which wouldn’t be very interesting to people watching from afar.

For a family who’s constantly on the move, what should be their main ‘tool’ to keep in mind?

Healthy connections. Parents can ensure social and emotional stability in their changing environment by blending past and present. You have to connect to both the new location and your past locations or home. If you understand how the relationships develop, then you’ll have more success as a global nomad. It’s important for a family to deal with the emotional side of relocating, rather than 8

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What is your philosophy in overcoming overwhelming stress when dealing with adaptation to a new place?

One key psychological issue everyone faces is the need to belong. After we cover the basics - food, water, shelter and security — we need to find ‘our people’. We need to connect.

We need to belong to a family, a community, a unit, a race of people, a tribe, a great school, a good job, etc. If we feel connected, we can feel happy and fulfilled.

How are these issues translated to adults? Do children who move a lot tend to keep the habit (or grow fond of it) as they become older?

The population I work with are called TCKs or Third Cultural Kids. TCK is a term used to refer to children who were raised in a culture outside of their parents’ culture for a significant part of their development years. Adult Third Culture Kids are a very interesting group. Many who have grown up in less developed countries will want to return to help others abroad. They pick a major at university that will allow them to return to that country to help their community. Then you have the complete opposite, the Adult TCKs who are eager to form roots. They might marry into a family that has been in one community forever. This gives them the ‘root-in-laws’ or connection that they feel they might have been missing.

Do you find children who were raised in Indonesia feel an emotional connection with this country and want to come back?

Children take on the roles and connections that their parents tend to value and care about. If an Indonesian family raises their child to feel an emotional connection to their homeland, that child will tend to return to Indonesia or seek out Indonesians around the world to help and support. This is why I encourage global families to make family traditions and rituals as they move around the world. This helps their child to have pride in their heritage and love of their culture.

Where have you lived before Balikpapan? Were you a travelling child as well?

I was a monocultural, non airplane-flying person until I hit the age of 19. After university, I taught in American Samoa and travelled around Oceania. Since then, I have lived and worked in the USA, Singapore, Australia, Indonesia, Nigeria, and Thailand. My speaking engagements and travel has now included too many locations to list.

Where have you travelled to in Indonesia?

In Indonesia, we have travelled to many locations in the Sumatran area. We loved the Thousand Islands outside of Jakarta with Kotok Island being one of my favourite locations. I really enjoyed my time in Darajat. Water sports in Sulawesi are real family fun. Ubud was a hit for our extended family as well as the temples and water activities

“After we cover the basics — food, water, shelter and security — we need to find ‘our people’. We need to connect.”

in Bali. Lombok and Gili islands are beautiful. We have done family outings on Java including Jogjakarta. Now we are seeing areas on Borneo and in Kalimantan.

Tell us a little bit of FIGT, an organization you’re involved in?

I sit on the board of directors for FIGT (Families in Global Transitions). FIGT is the only US-based conference where representatives of the corporate, diplomatic, academic, the arts, military and mission sectors come to share cross-cultural coping strategies. This unique forum allows everyone to recognize the universal challenges of relocation and strategize on new methods and research. http://figt.org Tell us also a little bit about your book, ‘Emotional Resilience and the Expat Child: Practical Storytelling Techniques that will Strengthen the Global Family’.

The book provides step-by-step guide designed to help a child become resilient and to increase a child’s emotional vocabulary and emotional intelligence. This workbook has been created for parents and children to use together and will provide the perfect place to connect. To illustrate this, I have taken stories from our own travels and connected an emotion to each event. It is available in paper or e-Book format on Amazon.com.

In your opinion, is Indonesia quite accommodating when it comes to expat families? Are there enough support systems/organizations that facilitate good transitional periods for them?

My own global family has lived in four locations in Indonesia (Batam, Jakarta, Duri and Balikpapan) and we have found all locations in Indonesia to be friendly and accommodating for the expat family. Many large corporations are very good with packages for their global employee, but seldom include support for the global family.

There is a huge difference between showing a family the available schools or homes to rent vs. actually supporting them as they transition into the new location.

What place/city do you consider your ‘home’?

I always say home is where my family is. My home now is Balikpapan; Mooreland, Oklahoma; Toronto, Canada and Golden, Colorado. I feel very comfortable and loved even if I am sleeping on a college futon or a living room couch while I visit family.

MEET THE BALI EXPAT

Adventures into the Heart of Borneo with

MICHAEL PALMIERI Borneo is the third largest island in the world, which is politically shared by three countries, Indonesia, Malaysia and Brunei. The island has over 250 indigenous tribes, which are commonly referred to as Dayaks. Since 1974 Michael has made over 150 expeditions into the heart of Borneo.

Words By LL. Wing / Photos By Michael Palmieri

Michael at Katibas River, West Borneo

What made you choose Borneo?

When I was a child I read about the Wild Man of Borneo, which captured my imagination. Then in 1974 we met a couple in Legian that had just returned from Borneo, John and Marie DeConey.

I asked how we could get there and within a few days we were off to Borneo for true adventure.

What about the headhunters?

One hears stories about the famous headhunters in Borneo, which are very true. Walking through the interior veranda of a longhouse one can see hundreds of trophy skulls suspended in clear view, proudly on display, taken by war and by daring challenges. When a warrior cuts off a head, he is awarded with a ring tattoo on his finger. I have met several elder men who proudly showed me their tattooed hands, completely full of trophy rings. One old warrior explained to me that he had no more room on his hands and began tattooing the rings on his feet. Pretty impressive stuff!

Bahau Women

Grand Bahau Chief and Wife

Michael with trophy skulls in Borneo, 1977

LL. Wing is a NYC artist and writer.

What were the dangers inherent in the river area of Borneo in that era?

Travelling in the jungles of the third largest island in the world comes with many dangers; malaria, dengue, poisonous snakes, insects and being injured without any medical support could be fatal. The rivers of Borneo are some of the most challenging and dangerous in the world.

Tell me about a dangerous event on the river.

On one occasion on the Mahakam river in East Borneo (Kalimantan), myself and three Dayak Bahaus were heading downstream in an eight metre dugout canoe when suddenly up ahead I saw that we were rapidly approaching a huge set of life threatening rapids. I suggested to my Dayak driver to pull over to the side of the river. Then I and two Dayaks could walk the cargo through by foot and the driver could dash through the rapids alone. But the driver assured me not to worry (the infamous last words). Just like that we entered the mouth of the dragon. Halfway through the rapids the canoe capsized,

throwing the cargo and the four of us into the raging river. We lost all the cargo plus one of my Dayak crew. His body popped up two days later way downstream. It was a truly scary experience!

They told me, "The girl will be waiting inside for you. It's the first mosquito net on the right-hand side of the balik. Just open the net and quietly slip inside. Go! She is waiting for you!"

I heard that you were the first person to introduce the Borneo baskets (anjat) to the outside world. Tell me about this.

Yes, we were the first people to introduce this incredibly beautiful woven rattan backpack to the outside world. The Borneo bag called anjat is indigenous to most Dayak tribes. We see it all over Bali today and it has become a symbol to travellers of having been to Bali. My ultimate goal was to get the people to begin a cottage industry for this beautiful backpack, and today this goal has been achieved.

Nervously I entered the balik. I found the first mosquito net on the right side and silently opened the curtains. A fear began racing through my head. What if I get caught? These people are headhunters! I laid down next to her, wrapped my arms around her and cuddled up gently to her warm body. Then BAM! I was struck in the head! All I could see was whirling stars! Then she let out a scream that woke up the whole longhouse. I had just been struck heavily in the face by the elbow of her old grandma. A wave of chatter rippled throughout the longhouse, which then turned into shrieks of laughter. That's when I realized that I had just been punked by a bunch of teenage Iban boys! I awoke the next morning with a swollen black eye and lots of laughs from my Iban friends. So much for adventures in paradise!

Tell me an intimate story, which occurred during your travels in Borneo.

After making many expeditions into the jungles of Borneo, I had heard about the liberal sexual traditions of the tribes in Sarawak. I was curious as hell to discover more about the Iban tribe and their liberal culture of promiscuity. Now that door of opportunity had finally presented itself.

I was young and my testosterones were bubbling over. Soon I was to discover if this was a true story or just a fable. I just had to find out!

One night while visiting a village on the upper Katibas River in Sarawak, I would find out if the stories I had heard were true.

When the evening's entertainment was over, all the elders and children retired to their baliks (apartments). I remained there with a small group of teenage boys, chatting about cultural differences, when suddenly one of the young boys asked me if I liked the girl with the red blouse, the one that had been flirting with me. Suddenly her exotic Gauguin-esque face smiled in my mind's eye. Wow! Yes, I do remember! So the boys told me that she was waiting for me in her family's balik. By now all the elders and children were fast asleep. They showed me the door to the balik, explaining to me that the room would be lit by a very dim palm oil lamp and inside there would be many beds with mosquito nets covering each of them.

Any suggestions for anyone wishing to visit Borneo and where to go?

The jungles of Borneo are only for the hardcore happy camper. The equatorial temperatures are sweltering hot and wet with lots of mosquitoes and other weird crawling creatures. No villas here, no Internet, no mobile phones, and comfort and privacy are rare commodities. Local village food is very exotic indeed. And if you really wish to see genuine authentic Dayak culture and people, you must travel deep into the interior, which can mean days by boat. There is one place that I do recommend that you visit and that is the Apo Kayan in the central highland mountains of Indonesian Borneo. There you will find the real deal. To get there you must charter, in advance, a plane (it's costly) operated by the missionary airlines. Good luck and happy trails!

Thank you, Michael!

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TRAVEL

Gregg Hollomon is a California native working as a professional geologist, residing in Jakarta. His first ‘overseas’ tenure (if you don’t count Miami) was in Jakarta back in 1991. 23 years later, Gregg still sees the joy of returning to Indonesia. If you ask him what has changed, he would comment that the bad is worse but the good is better. That’s Indonesia for you!

The Salvador Dali Quest Words and Photos By Gregg A. Hollomon

After living in Southeast Asia back and forth for over twenty years, I have come to realize that most of the expats living and enjoying this complication of life are just a little bit what you might say ‘off’. This is not to degrade or belittle, but rather reflects the persona of an individual who goes out of their way to leave their home country and live in a place where they never fully understand the host society or how things really work under the surface. These are people who embrace new cultures and difficult situations and most of all change.

In light of this situation, I also love change and new experiences. One of my lifelong passions includes that miraculous gas to liquid phase contact. As supposedly intelligent beings, we take for granted the significance of this phase change which places our planet into the ‘upper one percent’ category. The sport of experiencing this is just a means or carrier on the journey of fulfilment. You may say, well, what does this have to do with being a little ‘off’?

Just a few weeks ago after church, my wife introduced me to a young Indonesian lady

who had just returned from Gorontalo, Sulawesi. She had taken a long weekend for a short dive trip. At the time, I had heard of Gorontalo but was very ignorant of its offerings. Apparently, this young lady became sick on her trip but proceeded to do at least some of the dives. I later heard reports of her wrenching at depth into her regulator. Being simplistic minded, I got to thinking the area must offer something pretty unique if people are going out of their way to visit these sites even when sick.

I started to do a little Google search and found the answer to be the Salvador Dali sponge. Why would anyone in their right mind risk life and fly four hours out to a remote destination for a sponge? I went into action. The following Thursday was a work holiday, so planning initiated around a four day trip. My wife had just returned from a boondoggle to Singapore with girlfriends and our son was deep in the throngs of IB testing, so my opportunity materialized as family approvals were obtained for my oneperson trip. Arriving at Gorontalo airport on time and with no lost baggage was a

“THESE MONSTER SPONGES, AS FRAGILE AS THEY ARE, ADORN GORONTALO LIKE NOWHERE ELSE IN THE WORLD.” godsend. I was whisked to the ‘best place in town’ locally known as Grand Q Hotel. I can confidently recommend Grand Q Hotel for their fantastically soft pillows. They were just too good!

Gorontalo BORNEO

Location Gorontalo is located in the Northern Tomini Gulf of Sulawesi.

Population Gorontalo town is a mixture of around 300,000 but up to one million people live in Getting there Garuda Indonesia Airlines, Lion Air and Sriwijaya Air offer multiple daily flights with a normal one hour stopover in Makassar. From Jakarta, total door-to-door travel time is about five hours, not counting the possible horrendous drive out to Soekarno-Hatta International Airport. Upon arrival you can expect courteous pickup and no traffic jams. the surrounding area.

Local transportation The people are quite proud of their homemade vehicle of transport which consists of a motorcycle on a tricycle frame. I rode these contraptions all over town and the views were fantastic.

Diving I can highly recommend Miguel's Diving. This operation is excellent in all aspects; booking communication, trip logistics, dive operation and arranging secondary lodging. I found Miguel's dive operation to be run in a very ecofriendly and safe manner. Miguel's diving staff have a real passion for preservation of their undersea treasures, as well as making sure their visitors get the most out of the experience. Diving in Gorontalo can be seasonal so please check local conditions prior to booking a trip. The prime dive season is November to April. Whale shark sightings are not particularly rare and can occur during any month of the year.

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One hour upon check-in, I was on my way down to the 30-metre mark. Where are those raved about sponges? Being a late afternoon dive, I had set up my DSLR camera unit with a macro lens, thinking the light conditions would be too dark for good wide angle shots. I am glad I had, as that was the only dive during the following two days for which the wide angle wasn’t a necessity. The region isn’t particularly known for macro critters but they were abundant on this initial dive. It was the first time I finally got a ‘decent’ shot of an Orangutan crab all haired out. The upper fore reef and top reef were teeming with life that evening.

The next morning I was promptly met at my Grand Q Hotel by no other than Rantje Allen, the owner of Miguel’s Diving. Rantje moved out to Indonesia around eleven years ago from Miami, Florida and is one of the most well-adjusted foreigners living in Indonesia I have ever met. Rantje is very unassuming but rest-assured he has hosted a number of world-known underwater photographers and organizations to Gorontalo over the years. He started off our day of diving by giving the dive briefing in Bahasa to three local Jakarta enthusiasts before switching to English for us handicapped folks.

The first day included Jinn Caves, which is a fantastic site of multiple vertical walls, caverns and look-through cubby holes.

This site, like many other wall dives in Gorontalo, can be initially intimidating due to their spellbinding grandness. Just relax your breathing and take in the sights. Black coral, white fans, gargantuan red sea fans, batfish and thousands of glass fish decorate the undulating walls, slope breaks and caverns. You don’t have to look long to find the mysterious Salvadoran Dali sponges.

I finally saw for myself what all the fuss is about. These monster sponges, as fragile as they are, adorn Gorontalo like nowhere else in the world. They are truly beautiful due to their unusual brain-like texture, colour and undulating shapes.

Day one led into day two quite rapidly; three more dives and tons of fun. The day started out with a serious wall dive full of beautiful barrel, vase and purple tube sponges. Of course my friends, the Salvador Dali, were all showing off. Many of these species looked oversized like they had too much to eat. I am sure the macro critters were there, but you can’t take in everything when so much marine life is fully packed together. The second dive at West Point was particularly interesting as the morning sun’s position was prime to stream sunburst rays over the top of the wall, which was additionally littered with overreaching hard corals. These views were spellbinding.

Altogether I took over 600 photos on this two-day dive trip. I would highly recommend a visit to Gorontalo if you are a little ‘off’ and love exciting, thriving undersea life coupled with original Indonesian culture.

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FACES OF INDONESIA

Rut Dini THE RIVER GUARDIAN Words and Photo By David Metcalf

Dini is a passionate defender of the rivers of Borneo, which is not surprising, as her memories of growing up in a small village on the Kahayan River in Central Kalimantan are very happy ones. She remembers with fondness, days out fishing with her father in his small canoe on the pristine rivers with dense forested areas coming down to the riverbank, not far from what is now the bustling city of Palangkaraya.

Dini explained to me, “We often used to see orangutans in the trees and were very wary of them as they were staunch defenders of their territory, but we managed to respect each other and back then there was plenty of pristine forest for the people of my village and the wild primates of the forest to share.”

Dini was born in 1988 in a small village in Muara Teweh district and both her parents are Dayaks; her father is Dayak Ma’anyan and mother is from the Dayak Lamandau tribe. Dini now lives in Palangkaraya but misses those days in the village surrounded by family, community and the daily traditional activities and ways of the Dayak people of the area.

Her parents sacrificed everything to ensure Dini had a good education and her mother instilled in Dini a good attitude to learning. She always had a desire to work on humanitarian and environmental issues but ended up going to university to earn a degree in agriculture science. During this time she taught herself English by learning 70 words a day and interacting with foreigners as much as she could to become competent in the language.

After graduating with her agricultural science degree in 2013, she started working for a local NGO called Yayasan Tambuhak Sinta, concentrating on the issue of mercury pollution in the area of artisanal and small-scale gold mining in Central Kalimantan and West Nusa Tenggara. She is working on providing the alternative technologies and increasing public awareness to eliminate and/or to reduce the usage of mercury as a source of environmental pollution. Mercury is highly

“NOW THE RIVERS ARE POLLUTED FROM THE RUNOFF OF PESTICIDES AND CHEMICAL FERTILISERS FROM PALM OIL PLANTATIONS.”

polluting and damaging to human health through bioaccumulation in the food chain.

Rut Dini is very passionate about saving the rivers and forests of her homeland.

“I can’t believe how quickly the rivers have become polluted and the forests have disappeared in the area in which I grew up. Back then there were no palm oil plantations and the rivers were clean and there were many species of fish. Now the rivers are polluted from the run-off of pesticides and chemical fertilisers from palm oil plantations. Also, mercury poisoning is going to be a big problem in the future. It is so important that young Dayak people become educated and join in the fight to save our forests and rivers or our children will inherit a wasteland.

But we cannot do this alone, we need help from the outside and a collaboration of expertise is required. I have learnt there are many alternatives to these destructive methods and I am determined to devote my life to this cause.”

This strong-minded 25-year-old plans to earn a scholarship, travel to Australia and gain a Master of Environment degree to help her in her quest to work with NGOs and local governments to provide viable solutions to the current destructive practises. I have no doubt she will be successful, as this softly spoken young Dayak woman presents a steely determination and will to succeed and the rivers of Central Kalimantan have an ally.

David Metcalf supports environmental and Dayak cultural programs in Kalimantan and can be contacted on davidmetcalf3@mac.com

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TRAVEL

Ian Burnet is author of the books Spice Islands and East Indies. You can find out more about him on http://www.ianburnetbooks.com/

Sailing the Spice Islands

By Ian Burnet

“EASTERN INDONESIA

Maluku Islands

REPRESENTS A UNIQUE PART OF THE EARTH’S SURFACE BECAUSE IT IS HERE THAT FOUR OF THE EARTH’S GREAT TECTONIC PLATES — THE INDIAN OCEAN, THE ASIAN CONTINENT, THE AUSTRALIAN CONTINENT AND THE PACIFIC OCEAN — ARE IN COLLISION WITH EACH OTHER.”

Location The Maluku Islands are on the Halmahera Plate. They are located east of Sulawesi, west of New Guinea and north and east of Timor. Major islands and island groups include Ambon, Aru, Halmahera, Ternate, Tidore and Seram.

Sailling on the Ombak Putih through the Spice Islands

Population The whole of Maluku Islands have a population of about 2 million people. It is the least populous province in Indonesia. AmboneseMalay is spoken in most parts of Maluku, with differing dialects and deep roots in Portuguese.

Getting there Ambon and Ternate are the region’s air hub. Sultan Babullah airport in Ternate and Ambon’s Pattimura airport are served

by Lion Air, Batavia Air, Garuda Indonesia Airlines and Sriwijaya Air daily.

Machian Island characterized by a central volcano, which has been breached by a large cleft on its northeast side

Things to do Banda islands is popular for its breathtaking views on snorkeling and diving excursions, as is the case for most Maluku islands.

Great beaches come in abundance in Maluku islands, and it is a mountainous region, therefore hiking is a great activity to enjoy.

Eat and drink well with an array of sea food in the islands, and try the famous rujak in Ambon.

Gunung Api in the Maluku Islands

Local transportation On the islands, transportation is provided by bus, minibuses (bemo), taxi or chartered cars. Bicycles and rickshaws are available for the smaller islands. For island hopping, ferries and boats are your best bets.

Clitoria Ternatea

The great arc of the Indonesian archipelago starts north of the island of Sumatra and curves south and east until it reaches the northern part of the Australian continent. This arc of islands is defined by a string of active volcanoes, in Sumatra, Java, Bali, Lombok, Sumbawa, Flores and Banda, which erupt as the Indian Ocean plate is subducted under the Asian continental plate. Further east, the island arc is pushed to the north by the Australian continent, which has been relentlessly marching northward since it separated from Antarctica 45 million years ago.

The continuing collision of the Australian continent and the Pacific Ocean plate has thrust the Papuan mountains up to a height of 5,000 metres above sea level, where a tropical glacier still exists only four degrees south of the equator. The huge Pacific Ocean plate is moving westward pushing the island arc back on itself and rafting segments of Papua hundreds of kilometres towards the west.

Our voyage on the Ombak Putih, a classical two masted Bugis Pinisi, starts in Ambon from where we sailed overnight to the nutmeg islands of Banda. Here we are at the easternmost extension of the island arc before it is cut off by the westward extension of Papua. The Banda islands represent a remnant volcanic crater with the newer volcano of Gunung Api formed in its centre.

Some tectonic shift in the continental and oceanic plates occurred in 1988, causing Gunung Api to erupt, sending huge clouds of volcanic ash high into the atmosphere and molten lava to flow down its flanks and into the sea. These black lava flows are still evident as we sail into the sheltered harbour town of Banda Neira.

Eastern Indonesia represents a unique part of the Earth’s surface because it is here that four of the earth’s great tectonic plates — the Indian Ocean, the Asian Continent, the Australian Continent and the Pacific Ocean — are in collision with each other.

Three million years ago in the Moluccan Sea, these powerful forces fused together volcanic island arcs, seafloor sediments and coral reefs to create new land, forming the unusually shaped island of Halmahera.

A subduction zone then formed along the western side of Halmahera causing a series of offshore volcanic eruptions.

Our voyage continues north and we are now sailing along the narrow Patinti Strait between the large four-fingered island of Halmahera and a chain of offshore volcanic peaks, which rise directly out of the sea before us. This voyage is one of the most beautiful in all of Indonesia and to make it

even more spectacular we are accompanied by a school of dolphins welcoming us by diving out of the crystal clear waters beside our vessel. By mid-morning, the large island of Bacan is receding in our wake and the island of Kayoa lies ahead. Here, we pause to do what few others have done and our group swims across the Equator. Soon the island of Machian is in view, with wisps of cloud starting to build up around its volcanic peak. Machian was once the most prolific producer of cloves in all the Spice Islands and sailors have described how, with the wind in their faces, they could smell its sweet spicy fragrance from far out at sea.

The island is characterized by a central volcano, which has been breached by a large cleft on its northeast side, which clearly shows the cleft caused by an earlier eruption. The same tectonic event that effected Banda in 1988 also caused the volcano on Machian to erupt explosively and 15,000 islanders were evacuated with some being permanently resettled on the main island of Halmahera.

The Ombak Putih lands our group and guides ashore at one village on Machian and we walk along a coastal path for an hour or so until the next village. Walking through plantations of cassava, corn, cloves, nutmeg and coconuts, a particular flower attracts my attention. In my online search to identify the flower, I discovered an unusually named plant called Clitoria ternatea. This generic name was given by the botanist Breyne in 1678 to describe an exotic plant found growing as a vine on the island of Ternate.

Owing to its similarity to a human body part, it was often used in traditional medicine to treat female sexual ailments and also as an aphrodisiac. The Portuguese, who were the first Europeans to reach Ternate, called it ‘fula criqua’ or the creative flower, as in human creation. Taken from the northern Moluccas, this exotic cultivar is now grown all over the tropical and subtropical world. Commonly called the bluepea, the butterfly-pea or the cordovan-pea, it is often grown as an ornamental plant — and you may have one in your own garden.

Our final destination is the twin islands of Ternate and Tidore, which for a millennia were the centre of the clove trade and from the harbour in Ternate we can look back at the volcanoes and our voyage along the Spice Islands.

The next voyage by the Ombak Putih to the Spice Islands is from October 8–19. Please contact Sea Trek Sailing Adventures for more details.

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TRAVEL

borneo David Metcalf supports environmental and Dayak cultural programs in Kalimantan and can be contacted on davidmetcalf3@mac.com

ISEN MULANG

A Cultural Extravaganza Words and Photos By David Metcalf

A very special event occurs in Central Borneo on May the 18th each year.

Thousands of Dayaks converge on the small city of Palangkaraya to join together in a spirit of dance, fun, joy and cultural expression. They come from the river village settlements, from the forests and inland villages, young and old and somewhat in between, representing their districts and hometowns, determined to compete against the best on offer in dance, song, beauty, sports and traditional games in the third largest province in Indonesia, Central Kalimantan.

BORNEO

Location Palangkaraya is the capital of the Indonesian province of Central Kalimantan, also known as Central Borneo. The town is situated between the Kahayan and Sabangau rivers.

Isen Mulang means ‘never give up and strive to achieve’, and this event has been celebrated for the past eight years, which seems to get bigger every year. It is one of the few opportunities in Kalimantan to watch a gathering of so many Dayak tribes together in one place.

Population According to the 2010 census, Central Kalimantan has a population of approximately 220,000 people, with an average population density of 92.1 per km2. The languages spoken are a mixture of Indonesian, English, Banjar and the local Dayak languages, such as the Dayak Ngaju language.

This fantastic event begins with a traditional parade, which involves not only Dayak people, but also many other Indonesian cultures that moved to Central Kalimantan under the migrant transmigration program of the Soeharto era. People from Java, Sumatra, Sulawesi, Papua, the Maluku Islands, Bali and Nusa Tenggara are all represented in a colourful parade which winds its way through the streets of Palangkaraya ending up in the centre of town, where many of the participants gather to dance, socialize and pose for cameras.

Palangkaraya, which celebrated its 57th year anniversary this year, means ‘a sacred, glorious and crowded place’, and this is certainly the case as most of the town shows up to watch the parade and join in the festivities.

The highlight of the first day of events is the vibrant and very loud dragon boat contest.

Much care and effort is put into decorating the boats in intricate Dayak motifs, which are then paraded up and down the river. Beautiful young Dayak women sing and dance, and young warriors dressed in feathers, their bodies adorned with (temporary) tattoos specially crafted for the occasion, chant ancient songs and swing their parang (machetes) in the air, as they challenge the other boats.

This event is taken very seriously, as there are points awarded for the best decorated boat, best costume, best dance, best singing and the level of enthusiasm displayed. The prize is not only monetary; each team vies for bragging rights as they stand proudly on the bow of the ship, sailing proudly up the river after the winner is announced.

When the boats come in to shore, the contestants turn on yet another display of singing and dancing and then mingle with their friends in the crowd. This is a great opportunity to talk to the very friendly people of Palangkaraya, who are very 14

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Palangkaraya

Getting there Daily flights are available from Jakarta and Surabaya (other cities will require a layover in Jakarta) to Palangkaraya’s Tjilik Riwut airport (formerly Panarung airport), with Lion Air, Sriwijaya Air or Garuda Indonesia.

Things to do

excited to meet foreigners, as very few tourists visit their town mainly due to ineffective publicity and marketing outside of Kalimantan, rather than lack of things to see.

Day three includes the fascinating but serious game of ‘fireball football’, which sees teams compete on a small sized football field with coconuts that are literally doused in petrol and set alight! I think the crowd gets just as much excitement as the players and when the fireball flies into the crowd due to a wayward kick, this is received with much humour and a mass nervous exit. It is hilarious to watch the large crowd scram in all directions when the ball of fire comes their way.

The players themselves cover their legs in toothpaste, preventing them from getting burnt, although it is not so good for the goalie, who often dives on the coconut to save a goal, risking setting his clothes on fire.

Also on this evening the Prince and Princess of Tourism Competition begins.

This event is held over three nights, involving 24 contestants performing in pairs, representing their regencies. There is a lot at stake for this event, as the winners get to represent Central Kalimantan in Jakarta at the National Tourism Competition later in the year.

There are three judges at each event and voting is based on eight categories including dress, appearance, confidence, cultural expression, English speaking ability, dancing, creativity and effectively promoting tourism for their regencies. The contestants are aged between 17 and 23 and are dressed in beautiful, native costumes, making a spectacular sight with flashes of vibrant colour filling the stage as they dance, sing and perform to impress the judges.

The fourth day of the festival includes wood chopping, blow dart shooting, in which the contestants aim at a round target, not another Dayak as they would have in the past! Other festivities include a grand food baking competition, traditional canoe races and fish-catching (with bare hands).

It is in the evening, though, that the magic of the festival really comes alive. The large stage fills with giant feathers, bear claws, pointed hornbill beaks, bells and chains.

The Dayaks, representing their many tribes including the Ngaju, Maanyan, Lawangan, Katingan, Barito and Ot Danum, host four hours of traditional dancing. The display of their unique traditional dance costumes and the spirit of the competition create a wonderful atmosphere of entertainment, as each tribe seeks to be crowned ‘the best dancers’ of Central Kalimantan. Some contestants use fire to attract the judge’s

Visit the orangutan conservation centre, witness the Dayak culture through Isen Mulang and other festivals alike, trekking in the rainforest, hiking, jungle river cruises, visit the Balanga museum and many more.

Local Transportation Plenty of taxi services from the airport, some hotels offer pickup/drop-off services. There are numerous transport companies or charter car companies throughout the town. Public transportation, such as minibuses or angkot are available.

attention, which seems to blends in perfect synchronicity with the beautiful flowing hand movements of the female and male dancers.

The following evening, many of the same dancers perform the coastal or Melayu dance, which is slower and quite a different dance performance, yet just as evocative.

The final day of this extraordinary festival involves the youth. Thousands of dancers from the age of six to young teens dance in a large field in front of the Governor, which is a great way to end the six days of excitement. Colour, joy, fun and ancient Dayak culture is still very much alive as it has been for thousands of years.

FOOD & DRINK

A Night at Charlie's

Intan Tanjung is a contributing writer for national and international publications on the Bali's lifestyle, culture and as a popular travel destination. She loves the beach culture and the fantastic tropical way of living as well as the amazing proliferation of art.

By Intan tanjung

RATING SUMMARY FOOD SERVICE VALUE ATMOSPHERE

But a new surprise is going to add another dimension here. A new prolific chef, Damien Le Bihan, partnered with the existing four owners, is ready to take helm as executive chef and revamp Charlie’s culinary performance. This French-born, Brittany origin chef, who is proud of his native blood, will showcase his signature, a classic French cooking style, to the newly opened bistro. The bistro is going to take pride of place on the first level of the building, splashing a whole new atmosphere with the nuance of a neoretro Parisian bistro, with vintage French prints on the walls, antique lamps and a mirror wall.

The Eurostar is actually not the fastest way to travel to Paris and London. In Bali, you can enjoy hopping into these two big European cities that are famous for their lifestyle, by taking just a few steps.

Charlie is a bar and bistro located in the heart of Seminyak. This classic Londonstyle pub with a large red circle window on the front is also known as Charlie’s Mansion, a home to a mythical character named Charlie whom nobody has met but knows very well. This Charlie man, I am told, is a well-travelled fella who enjoys living a great life. He knows how to eat and party well, and loves to host people in his mansion while he’s out for a walk.

A door boy’s smile greets me, and the voice of Amy Winehouse singing ‘Back to Black’, along with the lively buzz inside wipes the crowds of Seminyak goodbye. For me, stepping in this mansion is like entering a different dimension. Its dim eclectic atmosphere transports me into a realm of a romantic hedonistic fantasy in an unknown wonderland. My playful mood suddenly swings into wild imagination.

The place is full of mystery, a playground for people who want to enjoy serious pleasures and great epicurean treats.

Charlie's Bar and Bistro, which presents the glory of unique Baroque interiors similar to London’s gentlemen bars — with large hanging chandeliers and artisan furniture that fill up the room — has been famous for its parties. For almost a year, so much vivacious fun has taken place here, unleashing fantastic performances such as DJs, dances, cabarets and burlesques to Charlie's guests. The bar on the second level provides luscious selections of libation; the cigar and cocktail collections are the talk of the town. Charlie is a place where cupids, angels and sins have no boundaries.

Beef cheek

Le Bihan has years of extensive experience in working in Michelin-star restaurants.

After graduating from cooking school, his career started in a kitchen of a local restaurant in Brittany, before taking off to a more serious one at Michel Rostang, a 2-Michelin star restaurant. Not long after that, he stepped up to become a Sous Chef at Guy Savoy, a 3-Michelin Star restaurant in Paris.

His seriousness in cooking made Guy himself send Chef Damien overseas to his Las Vegas kitchen, and two years after that, Le Bihan began leading Guy Savoy Singapore as General Manager.

Before arriving in Bali, he was running ten kitchens in a group of restaurants in Singapore, which include L’Entrecote, Sabio, Forlino, The Vintage Room, and Le Petit Cancal.

Grilled sardines

“What I do now is the continuity of what I've started before,” he explained. “For me first is to give pleasure to myself then to the guests. I will serve the guests something that I would eat. If not [then] I won’t send.”

Taking this new experience seriously, Le Bihan says he will focus on presenting the true character of ingredients and creating a twist on the rustic style of French foods, altering the heavy characters to suit the warm tropical weather.

Clafoutis

“My style is respecting the product, and when you eat you know what you are eating.

You can taste everything; you don’t have too many flavours. It's the same style and idea what I've been doing for years,” Chef Damien continued.

The food, which holds light characters but are bold and lush at the same time, will be divided into tapas, entrées, mains and desserts, served from 6pm until late. The result is extraordinary. His ideas of tartine of grilled sardines on multi-cercal bread with homemade black olive tapenade and French rilettes are perfect to accompany your built & muddled, blended and shaken cocktails. The grilled sardines deliver a crisp and clean character of the fish, salted with fine salt brought over from France and balanced with the freshness of tomato dices.

I tried the refreshing juniper & cucumber martini for the drink of the night to pair with salmon rillettes, cutely placed in a glass jar. Le Bihan’s rillettes boost a light but rich taste and are perfected with a kick from sprinkled lemon zest.

The respect shown to the main ingredients, without adding a lot of fuss and flavours, is also shown on the main course. I sample the braised beef cheek, which is cooked in a bourguignon style with wine and spices for several hours, makes the beef really succulent and rich in flavours.

Size is a surprising factor that adds to the delight. Although Chef Damien says that he prefers not to serve oversized foods, his generosity appears when it comes to desserts. I am overwhelmed when a portion of crème brûlée arrives on my table. A bigger size of this creamy dessert may look intimidating, but as I scooped a spoon and tasted it, the freshness and light taste burst out and I easily finished it without problem.

I never had crème brûlée as good as this.

As the clock ticks by, the music gets louder and the crowds fill the building and the mezzanine; Charlie seems to know how to create a hell of a good time to entertain us all. I have enjoyed the best of France, now it’s time for London.

CHARLIE BAR & BISTRO Jl. Petitenget 5, Seminyak Bali, Indonesia 80361 Ph: 0821 474 17332 Hours: 6pm – 2am (Monday – Saturday) E-mail: mail@charliebali.com Web: www.charliebali.com

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TRAVEL

MOUNT BROMO

Where Heaven and Hell Meet Words and Photos By Graeme Steel

Mount Bromo (Gunung Bromo), an active volcano two hours’ drive east of Surabaya, East Java, is by far the most accessible volcano in the region. Still active and occasionally spewing ash and smoke over the area, it is set on an eerie plain known as the Sea of Sand, a caldera on which four volcanic cones have emerged. A protected nature reserve since 1919, this area is home to the Hindu Tengger people, who, the story has it, fled into the highlands to escape the encroachment of Islam in the 16th century.

Most visitors approach Bromo via Probolinggo to the east of Bromo, but we take a shorter route via Pasuruan, in part because it is closer, but also because it is more scenic and less touristic. The route takes us through highland Tengger villages with outstanding views down on the valleys that fall below the mountain slopes.

First stop is to an elaborate village market at Pasrepan.

Here, goods are brought in from the surrounding countryside, everything from vegetables, chickens and goats, to farm implements, fish and tobacco.

Few visitors come this way so we attract a good deal of attention, but certainly in a friendly way. The produce here is about the best there is: cabbages, cauliflowers, carrots, potatoes, tomatoes abound, all grown on the fertile slopes of this volcanic region, and they look amazingly fresh and worth buying. Buyers come in from far afield to purchase here, supplying restaurants and city markets in the area.

The road winds on up at a serious degree of incline, but the asphalt surface is good and it is only the twists and turns that may be hazardous. We stop at points along the way where we can gaze down into beautifully cultivated valleys, where terracing utilizes every possible inch for planting. The angle at which the farmers must work looks excruciating. The Tenggerese live in simple wooden dwellings that perch themselves on the mountainsides, sitting precariously above the road. These people are short, with ruddy complexions and sinewy limbs.

Sarongs are draped over their shoulders as a kind of shawl against the cold.

Eventually we reach the entrance to the Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park where we transfer to hardtop jeeps (all Toyota Land Cruisers from the 70s) for the drive up to Mount Penanjakan (2,770 m) which provides awesome views down onto the Sea of Sand. Our drivers are hardy folk and delight in driving on their wits around hairpin bends. It’s all we can do to hold on tight in the back, gripping anything we can find. Mist comes in and out quickly here, so sometimes it is necessary to linger to catch a glimpse of the view. This is where, at sunrise, hundreds of serious photographers jostle to catch National Geographic views, but by mid-morning we have it to ourselves. This is heaven.

Graeme has been writing on Indonesian travel destinations for 25 years including for the Rough Guide to Indonesia. He believes East Java and Madura have much to offer the visitor.

Contact him at Graeme@authenticjavatours.com

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JAVA

Mt. Bromo BALI

Province: East Java Elevation: 2,770 m How to get there Drive from Surabaya to Pasuruan.

Turn off on the road to Puspo and drive to Tosari. Take jeeps from there to the two views at Mount Penanjakan and then down to the Sea of Sand and to the foot of Mount Bromo. Garuda, Air Asia and Silk Air all fly into Surabaya.

Where to stay Java Banana, Jl. Raya Bromo, Wonotoro, Probolinggo Tel: (0335) 541 193 Web: www.java-banana.com Lava View Lodge, Cemorolawang, Probolinggo Tel (0335) 541 009.

What to bring Hat, sunscreen, sunglasses, jacket, scarf, gloves, face mask Costs Park entry: Rp.300,000 per person, Jeep (up to four people): Rp.500,000

The descent down to the Sea of Sand is a hairy drive. Loose gravel means that traction is poor and sometimes at speed we encounter jeeps coming up and only through the driver’s skill, avoid collision. The Sea of Sand stretches out before us — a dirty black plain of volcanic rock ground down over millennia. Horsemen, Tenggerese men, eager for our trade, suddenly appear from nowhere determined to reach us first for a booking. Ahead, dozens of horsemen are awaiting the tourists in packs. After a kafuffle we choose our guides and having mounted we set off on the 30-minute trek to the foot of Mount Bromo (2,329 m). This is the hell bit. This is an eerie landscape of nothing but sand, mists, whiffs of distant sulphurous fumes, and a light that waxes and wanes between piercingly bright to forebodingly gloomy. We pass by Mount Batok (2,470 m), an almost perfect cone with a cut-off top and neatly seamed sides down which molten lava carved its path, and the rather drab Hindu Poten Temple.

Our horses reach as far as they can go. Kids sell bouquets of dried Casuarina and Javanese Edelweiss. Dismounting, we climb the 250 concrete steps leading us up to the edge of the crater. It’s a hard climb in the rarefied air full of sulphurous fumes. On a weekend this can be packed with tourists, domestic and international, but today we have it to

ourselves. At last at the top! We grab handkerchiefs to gag our mouths and eyes from the fumes which are blowing up from the inner cauldron into our faces. A metre-wide ledge is all that guards us against tumbling down into the cauldron. Peering as best as we can the inner sides of the cone are of ash, but it’s further down that one can see the reddish embers of fire. A few minutes is all we can bear, so we descend as quickly as the steps down will allow. At halfway, the fumes begin to dissipate and we can breathe and see again. We take our breath and check to see that everyone in our party is with us. Being stuck at the top would mean quick asphyxiation and medical services are a world away.

Back on solid ground we mount our horses back to the main gathering point. Vendors offer welcome cups of tea and coffee, and steaming bowls of instant noodles. After a break we take the jeeps out of the area to the entrance point where our driver is waiting for us. The consensus among us is that Mount Bromo is really one of the world’s most awesome views, and weirdest of places, but highly recommended.

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TRAVEL

Donny Syofyan is a lecturer at the Faculty of Cultural Sciences at Andalas University. Despite majoring in English literature, his interests are wide and varied. He is a regular writer for The Jakarta Post and Republika.

Feel free to contact him at donny.syofyan@gmail.com

SOUTH SOLOK

A Place with One Thousand Rumah Gadang houses. Considering its distinctiveness, the government of the West Sumatra province proposes that the Nagari 1,000 Rumah Gadang in Koto Baru be a cultural heritage under UNESCO’s World Heritage. In 2013, thanks to Tour de Singkarak (TdS) across West Sumatra, the local government of South Solok has allocated as much as Rp.4.8 billion to renovate the traditional houses.

The budget, for instance, has been used to revamp the toilets that can be adapted to the habits of foreign tourists.

By Donny Syofyan

King Balun Palace

Nagari 1,000 Rumah Gadang

interesting, it is equipped with 24 pillars representing its clan names, Kampai nan Duo Puluah Ampek (Kampai of Twenty Four). Four of which are still original, wrapped in yellow cloth.

M

AL

AY S

IA

South Solok SU M AT RA

Getting there Daily flights from Jakarta to Padang are available with Garuda Indonesia, Sriwijaya Air and Lion.

Where to stay Hotels: Zam-Zam and Sulit Indah.

Both are in Jl. Kampung Parak No. 66 Homestays: Hilmalaya in Jl. Imam Bonjol No.34 A. Panjang Wisma Zam-zam Melati in Desa Pasar Muara Labuh Sungai Pagu Irwan Jaya in Desa Pdg Aro Kec. Sangir, Wisma Umi Kalsum in Jl. Bt. Laweh No. 21 Muara Labuh

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indonesia expat issue 121

South Solok, located along mountain ranges of Sumatra, has a cool climate.

While taking a trip from Padang city to this area, travellers will enjoy the beautiful hillside villages with a wide range of tropical forest plants. Things get more interesting as they also pass through the rivers on the sidelines.

Entering South Solok regency, travellers will be greeted by beautiful King Balun Palace, which is one of the palaces of Kings of Four (Raja nan Empat) in Alam Surambi, Sungai Pagi sub-district, Daulat yang Dipertuan Tuanku Rajo Bagindo Raja Adat Alam Surambi Sungai Pagu.

He had authority to handle indigenous and economical affairs and excelled in tambo (historical records). In the palace, visitors can not only find heritage objects relating to the origin of Sungai Pagu people, but they can also see elephant skeletons believed to have originated in ancient times.

The lineage house (rumah gadang) turns 600 years old and has been burned in the Dutch period. Under Japanese occupation, its rangkiangs (small hut to store harvested paddies) were ever burned. The house still has many ancient texts and well-preserved equipments for the coronation of the king. Equally

Moving further, visitors will arrive at Nagari 1,000 Rumah Gadang (One Thousand Rumah Gadang village). It is a traditional village located in Koto Baru village, Sungai Pagu sub-district, Solok Selatan regency, 141 km away from Padang City. Almost the entire dwelling places in the area are lineage houses. Natural beauty of the village was once used as the movie setting of Tenggelamnya Kapal Van der Wijck (The Sinking of Van der Wijck), an adaptation of a late 1930s Indonesian novel of the same title penned by Haji Abdul Malik Karim Amrullah, who is better known as Hamka.

The name of ‘One Thousand Rumah Gadang’ village is given by Meutia Hatta, Women's Empowerment Minister in Yudhoyono's first cabinet from 2004 to 2009, during her trip to the village. The name behind the village suggests assorted kinds of lineage houses based on clan names in the village such as Gajah Maharam, Bodi Chaniago, Koto Piliang and Surambi Aceh. While their buildings remain original thus far, the houses have their own uniqueness with or without stunning carvings on the walls.

Regular maintenance is entrusted to younger offspring of each clan staying in the village.

Most of the lineage houses in the village are estimated to have been 90 years old and still function well for various cultural festivities. It is important to note that all customs-related activities must be carried out at rumah gadang. As a consequence, the lineage house plays a momentous role in strengthening ties of clan members involving mamak (mothers' brothers), nephews, and urang sumando (in-marrying husbands). Some houses in the region are used as guest houses for tourists, so that they can enjoy the thrill of sleeping inside the

In South Solok particularly and West Sumatra in general, rumah gadang remains in existence to this day, but more as a symbol of tradition. Very few Minangkabau live in rumah gadang.

The men have developed the tradition of merantau (travelling) to make a living for their mothers, sisters and wives away from the scarcity of land in their hometowns.

Many Minangkabau women do the same for similar reasons, or simply because there are more opportunities in other provinces. They have outgrown the modesty and simplicity of the big house.

Travelling to the South, visitors will go through Sangir sub-district with Padang Aro as its capital. Visitors will see Mitra Kerinci tea gardens right at the foot of Mount Kerinci three kilometres prior to Padang Aro. Looking to the west side of the tea garden, they see how Mt. Kerinci stands firmly as the highest mountain in Sumatra. Furthermore, South Solok is also blessed with several waterfalls, like Ampek Tansi and Timbulun, as well as enticing Air Malanca River.

Another interesting tourist attraction in South Solok, counted as a historical site, is the office of the Emergency Government of the Republic of Indonesia (PDRI) in Bidar Alam. There are some historical sites yet to be identified and listed and are subject to development in the future. As for natural attractions, South Solok possesses potentials for tourism needed to be seriously managed, among others Lake Bontak at the foot of Mount Kerinci, hot springs in various places including Sapan hot spring near Pangkuo river, caves or grottos, river rafting and campgrounds in Batang Sangir river, Batang Bangko river and many others.

The tourism potential of South Solok may become an important sector in improving the economy of the community and increasing local government revenues (PAD). The development of the region calls for indispensable participation of all parties—government, perantau (wanderers), investors, and private sectors like tours and travel agencies.

The South Solok local government is right behind the promotion of Nagari 1,000 Rumah Gadang. Tourists can get there by renting a car at the airport in Padang and there are several hotels in South Solok areas.

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POLITICS

Taufik Darusman is a Jakarta-based journalist.

He can be contacted at darusmantaufik@gmail.com

THE JULY 9 ELECTION

A TOSS-UP

By Taufik Darusman

One month before the July 9 presidential election day, a poll held by Kompas showed that about 40% of voters remain undecided. Not surprisingly, as voters mull between a person perceived as the epitome of change (Joko Widodo) and a former army general from pre-reform days (Prabowo Subianto), whose public image is that of a no-nonsense leader, as the nation’s future leader.

While many see Joko Widodo (Jokowi), who is given to simplicity and frugality, as the right person to bring about change, they have second thoughts whether he can really deliver. Jokowi was personally handpicked

by Megawati Sukarnoputri, the chairperson of the Indonesian Democratic Party of Struggle (PDIP), as presidential candidate thanks to surveys showing his huge popularity as governor of Jakarta. However, the public harbours misgivings as Jokowi’s previous experience in governance is being mayor of Solo, a city no larger than South Jakarta, and a little over a year muddling through in cleaning up the capital city’s mess.

affair: both candidates are Javanese, who make up 42% of the population, and about 6% of the voters are on Java Island.

At the other end of the political spectrum are those who have had enough of ten years of non-assertive leadership, despite having a retired general at the helm: they welcome a leader like the suave and urbane Prabowo Subianto, who calls a spade a spade. Prabowo, a millionaire many times over and a charismatic figure who exudes unbridled confidence, also looks, well, very much presidential. Yet the public is also rather uneasy at the idea of having a cashiered military officer accused of being a serial human rights violator as president who might be tempted to reprise the New Order.

The irony of it all is that, in terms of their respective vision and mission, there is little that significantly distinguishes Jokowi from Prabowo. Both put the people’s welfare at the centre of their platform and vow to improve the country’s food, energy, education and infrastructure situation. Indeed, the only time they disagreed, during one of the nationwide televised debates, is whether or not the country needs ultraheavy 65-ton battle tanks the country’s urban terrains could not withstand in the first place.

Most surveys show that for all his hands-on management style of running Jakarta as governor, a trait that should appeal to urban, educated voters, it is mostly lower-class people who have made Jokowi their choice. In contrast, Prabowo, who has been touring remote areas long before the election process started, finds most of his supporters at the upper crust of society.

Interestingly, the election promises to be an all-Javanese

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“Interestingly, the election promises to be an all-Javanese affair: both candidates are Javanese, who make up 42% of the population, and about 6% of the voters are on Java Island.”

indonesia expat issue 121

The same Kompas poll shows Jokowi leading Prabowo by a mere 6%, down from a double-digit edge a few weeks ago. So what now stands between the candidates and the presidency are voters who are not sure if Jokowi is the face of a new Indonesia, and those who wonder if Prabowo is indeed the person who, as he says it, will be able to restore Indonesia’s international prestige as “an Asian tiger”.

To be sure, this is no contest between two candidates who differ on same sex marriage, development of stem cells, or universal healthcare. Or how to deal with Iran’s nuclear program and the pace of troop withdrawal from Iraq, for that matter. In fact, one knows very little how each candidate plans to raise the country’s tax base, currently at a dismal figure of 12%, or how they will address intolerance among religious groups that often leads to violent acts. In short, neither Jokowi nor Prabowo are game changers.

In any case, some countries already have an idea on what’s at work in the candidates’ minds. Jokowi, for example, made his opening statement on foreign policy by supporting the independence of Palestine, while Prabowo emphasized “good neighbour policy”. Both will not compromise on any attempt by any country that wishes to snatch away parts of the country, but are prepared to allow diplomacy run its course in a conflict involving Indonesia.

If most Indonesians failed to go through their detailed and elaborated vision and mission in order to know what the candidates’ future plans are for the nation, the three televised debates should be able do so albeit in a sweeping way. More importantly, perhaps is that the debates revealed their mannerism and gestures, both of which are often more meaningful — and enduring in the public’s mind — than the statements they make.

All eyes will be on Indonesia on July 9 as the world’s fourth largest nation (after China, India and the US), in terms of population (253 million), chooses a new leader.

Some 187 million people are eligible to vote amidst the fear that turnout may only reach around 70%, still a respectable figure by most standards. (In 2004 and 2009, respectively 23% and 28% decided to stay home.)

It is noteworthy that some 67 million Indonesians, or about one-third of total registered voters, are eligible to take part in the presidential election for the first time. If the election appears to be a toss-up between two formidable candidates running neck and neck and sharing what is virtually a common platform, it is also about Indonesians’ preference for the style with which the nation will be governed in the next five years.

Kenneth Yeung is a Jakarta-based editor

Everything to Lose

By Kenneth Yeung

Claim: Veteran singer Iwan Fals supports Prabowo and his running mate Hatta Rajasa.

Fact: Iwan Fals was furious after digitally modified photos, showing him wearing a Prabowo-Hatta t-shirt, were disseminated.

Claim: Jokowi was involved in corruption cases when mayor of the Central Java city of Solo.

Fact: No evidence has been produced to prove that Jokowi accepted bribes or embezzled funds.

As Indonesia’s most important presidential election ever nears its climax, there has been no end of deception aimed at swaying undecided voters. Much of the misinformation has been disseminated by the news media and social media.

Following is a look at the truth behind a few of the many claims being made about the two contenders: Joko ‘Jokowi’ Widodo and ex-general Prabowo Subianto.

Claim: Jokowi is a Catholic of Chinese descent.

Fact: Jokowi is Javanese and a Muslim. The allegations were made in a fake tabloid, which was published by supporters of Prabowo and sent to Islamic schools.

Claim: Prabowo’s father was a traitor because he tried to help America overthrow founding president Sukarno.

Fact: Prabowo’s father, economist Sumitro Djojohadikusumo, in the late 1950s supported a regional rebellion, in which parts of Sumatra and Sulawesi tried to break away, backed by the CIA. When the rebellion was crushed, Sumitro left Indonesia. He returned in 1967, after Suharto had ousted Sukarno, and then served as a minister in two cabinets.

Claim: Jokowi can’t speak English unless reading from a script.

Fact: Jokowi can speak sufficient English to handle interviews with foreign journalists.

Claim: Prabowo is violent and bad tempered.

Fact: He argues it is better for people to be led by a tiger than a goat. Former state intelligence chief Hendropriyono was reported to police for defamation after describing Prabowo as a psychopath.

Claim: Jokowi broke his promise to serve out his first term as governor of Jakarta from 2012–2017.

Fact: Jokowi has since May 14 been on temporary leave pending the presidential election campaign.

His supporters argue it is for the greater good of Indonesia if he becomes president.

Claim: Former president Abdurrahman ‘Gus Dur’ Wahid endorsed Prabowo’s presidential bid.

Fact: In March 2009, after losing control of his National Awakening Party, the near-blind Wahid advised his supporters to back Prabowo for the presidency. Gus Dur died nine months later.

Counter-Fact: American journalist Allan Nairn last week posted details of a 2001 interview in which Prabowo belittled Wahid, saying: “The military even obeys a blind president! Imagine!

Look at him, he's embarrassing…. Look at Tony Blair, Bush, Putin. Young, ganteng (handsome) — and we have a blind man!”

Claim: Jokowi is a failure because Jakarta’s traffic jams are worse and the city has become more prone to annual flooding.

Fact: Traffic has improved in some areas, including previously gridlocked Tanah Abang, after Jokowi convinced street traders to vacate the roads. Some vendors have returned to the roadside but the situation is still better than it was. As for floods, Jokowi has had little success in reducing their impact, but his empathy for flood victims has won support.

Claim: Prabowo suffered an injury while serving in East Timor.

Fact: The rumour should be irrelevant.

Claim: Jokowi is a puppet of ex-president Megawati Sukarnoputri and America.

Fact: Megawati has long had a stranglehold on her Indonesian Democratic Party of Struggle (PDIP). The death of her influential husband Taufik Kiemas last year means that Jokowi is less under Mega’s grip. Some Americans support Jokowi but they don’t control him.

Claim: Prabowo could be a threat to democracy and free speech.

Fact: Prabowo last year told Tempo magazine: “I have proven my commitment to the Constitution…. Physically, I was the strongest in Indonesia. I was accused of planning a coup, so I was fired by the president, but I obeyed him without protest.” In his 2001 interview with Alan Nairn, Prabowo is quoted as saying: “Indonesia is not ready for democracy. We still have cannibals, there are violent mobs… [Indonesia needs] a benign authoritarian regime… Do I have the guts, am I ready to be called a fascist dictator?”

Claim: Jokowi cannot be trusted because PDIP is the most corrupt political party in Indonesia.

Fact: Most of the parties are rotten and PDIP is no exception.

“Iwan Fals was furious after digitally modified photos, showing him wearing a Prabowo-Hatta t-shirt, were disseminated.”

Claim: Prabowo masterminded the deadly anti-Chinese riots of May 1998.

Fact: There was a power struggle in the Indonesian military in 1998 between Prabowo and his commander Wiranto.

Initially, Prabowo was blamed for the carnage, but after subsequent analysis, many people insinuated that Wiranto was responsible.

Both men deny being the mastermind.

Claim: Jokowi is supported by human rights abusers.

Fact: Among the many retired generals supporting Jokowi are several accused of failing to uphold human rights, including Wiranto, Hendropriyono and Ryamizard Ryacudu.

Claim: Prabowo was responsible for the abduction and torture of pro-democracy activists.

Fact: In an interview with Tempo magazine in October 2013, Prabowo said: “Sometimes, as the government's tool, we carry out missions which at the time were seen to be right. After the government changes, the new governments regard it as wrong. I was just an employee at the time, following orders… But I never went anywhere, I did not hide, I took responsibility for it. So where's the problem?”

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WORTHY CAUSES

Plastik Tidak Fantastik

British-born Polly Christensen is a documentary film maker, features writer and environmentalist. She can be contacted at www.madefromstardust.com

(PL A STIC IS NOT FANSTA STIC)

By Polly Christensen

the head of the village, the head of the banjar and the PKK (women’s collective). On a government level, the Camat supports Bye-Bye Plastic Bag. They are also supported by like-minded organizations such as the Green School, Jari Menari, Canggu Rotary, Tas Pasar, and Eco Bali.

Bye-Bye Plastic Bags is a well-known social initiative driven by a team of 25 volunteer children who attend local and international schools. These progressive and insightful environmentalists are in the process of banning the use, sale and production of plastic bags in Bali, by January 2015, with their campaign.

“We have known Paula and the service of Eco Bali for a long time so we contacted her for professional advice.

Then one thing led to another and we made the bags together. They even joined in with the banjar meetings and hopefully Eco Bali will be a part of our team in the next village.”

Inspired by a study about significant people and emulating their heroes, such as Nelson Mandela, Lady Diana and Martin Luther King, the young Wilsen sisters decided they wanted to become significant too. Melati, age13, and Isabel, age11, are both students at the Green School, where they became aware of the fact that mass consumption of plastic products has created a plastic wasteland on Bali.

Bye-Bye Plastic Bags present a multi-layer approach consisting of presentations at local and international schools, an online petition, general awareness for NO plastic with walks, talks, and clean ups. They are sure to inspire other schools and young people worldwide to start their own campaigns. BBPB have been on TV several times, and appeared in publications, in magazines and newspapers.

“Actually, we always saw more garbage than in other countries in the West, but the last few years it has become worse. Or maybe we are at an age where we feel we have to take care of our island. We have to take responsibility and cannot keep on standing by the sideline if the government will not seriously commit.”

BBPB team members are avid surfers and they witness first-hand all types of marine life being harmed by discarded bags. Animals choke to death while consuming partially broken-down plastic pieces thinking it is plankton. The future is looking bad for Bali’s environment, because plastic bags remain in our landfills, oceans and beaches for thousands of years before degrading.

Being aware of the complex garbage problem that currently exists on the island, they decided to focus on a manageable and feasible issue, to reduce, and if possible, ban single-use plastic bags from Bali. Bye-Bye Plastic Bags was founded in October 2013, when the girls made a presentation at the GIN Conference.

Separately, an online petition initiative “Bye-Bye Plastic Bags on Bali”, at Avaaz.org, has managed to collect 60,000 of its targeted 1,000,000 signatures. The petition will be delivered to Bali Governor Made Mangku Pastika so its initiators can lobby the provincial administration to draft a preventative by-law.

“We would really, really like to meet Governor Pastika, but we have had no luck so far. We want to make him our hero.

We do not need or want anything from Bapak that he has not already stated or promised. A law to ban plastic bags is already in many other countries. It’s easy; just say NO to Plastic Bags!”

BBPB are essentially “warming up” those people who can implement a final solution to address Bali’s larger and significant garbage problem. Melati and Isabel consider ‘Saying NO to Plastic’ as the first step toward awareness, one that will encourage a positive attitude and willingness for change in the community.

“Our pilot village is called Pererenan. We chose this village in January and had three months worth of meetings. There is an organization called PGL (Pererenan Gumi Lestari) who were already active maintaining and improving shrimp in the river, trees, and birds. Say NO to Plastic fitted very well with their program. In addition, the village head, Bapak Ketut has been super supportive from the start.”

“We all love Bali as the island of temples, smiles and rice fields. But now it’s more famous as the island of garbage!

We are planning our next programs for a village close to Ubud and probably our own village Pantai Seseh. We want the government to support our campaign, so we can cover the whole of Bali.”

It took another three months of introducing ‘Say NO to Plastic’ to local schools and throughout every village organization or banjar. BBPB organized sports days, clean ups, and created a presentation team, media team, fundraising team and a bag team. The group handed out a set of three bags to every Indonesian family (KK) and handed out alternatives bags to all shops and warungs. It was felt that monitoring and follow up was the key issue to see if the pilot village really would become a ‘plastic bag free zone’ after nine months of efforts.

Realizing the importance of spreading awareness, BBPB have organised fun events, such as Flash Mobs and the recent Plastik Tidak Fantastik Festival, which was held in June at the Green School and raised almost 45 million Rupiah. The day included competitions to create art from plastic, a fashion show displaying clothes made from plastic, workshops, poetry, songs, and environmental movies. The Green School has since integrated BBPB as a part of their curriculum.

What a wonderful initiative! We must all support the BBPB team, with their never-ending positive energy, to preserve beautiful Bali for future generations.

“We handed out 800 bags for each family of the desa, a set of three washable bags, small, medium and large. Another 1,000 paper bags were handed out to warungs and shops and on June 21 another 600 reusable bags to the shops.”

BBPB soon learned that without the help and support of locals, changes would not occur. They made contact with

Sign the petition at www.avaaz.org and search for ‘Bye-Bye Plastic Bags on Bali’.

Website: www.bye-byeplasticbags.com

DUA TA NGA N CUKUP — ACT IONS F ROM ACROS S T HE A RCHIPEL AGO

#selfiesampah the Trash Selfie Social media is undeniably big business in Indonesia and selfies, or a photo of one’s self taken by one’s self, are so popular that a dance track has even been created in its name. In Tunisia, locals fed up of living among rubbish decided to do something about it by taking selfies showing rubbish in the background to upload to social media platforms in an effort to raise awareness about the situation in their country, calling for a cleaner Tunisia. These were aptly called ‘trash selfies’ and have taken the country by storm, calling on the government to do something about the rubbish problem.

The good people behind Clean Up Jakarta Day are asking the good people of Indonesia to join a similar campaign called ‘#selfiesampah’ by taking photos of

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themselves next to litter that they find around them and uploading them to their social media platforms with the hashtag ‘selfiesampah’ for the world to see. They encourage everyone to join and lock in the location of where the photo was taken so that it is clear where the main problems lie.

So, if you’ve ever felt frustrated when you see rubbish on the street, please get involved by snapping a trash selfie and sharing it with your friends! It’s as easy as that. This simple action can raise awareness and make an impact, calling on a cleaner Indonesia with tougher fines and laws for littering and cleaning up of certain areas. Who said narcissism wasn’t helpful? Grab your phone and start trash selfie-ing and make a change!

Upload your trash selfies to Facebook, Twitter or Instagram using the hashtag #selfiesampah. You can tag Clean Up Jakarta Day on Twitter (@CleanupJKTday) or Facebook (Clean Up Jakarta Day).

LIGHT ENTERTAINMENT

Beer Goggle Bikers

* Answers in the next edition!

FOR THE MACET MIND

By Eamonn Sadler (www.eamonnsadler.com)

I believe there is a strong argument for the ‘cooling off period’ law when people want to buy guns. Instead of flipping out completely and running to the nearest gun shop in order to buy the ultimate argument winner, people are forced to calm down and make rational decisions before they blow each other’s brains out. Of course, some people can stay angry for a very long time so this is not the perfect system of governance, but I’m sure it has prevented more than one ‘crime of passion’, and probably a ‘crime of parking place’ or two in the places where the law exists.

head was pounding, my vision was blurred and for a moment I thought he was sleepwalking, but my brain eventually started to extract a few words from the grunting noises he was making. “Truck… F***ing motorbikes…” I thought he was complaining about traffic noise. I concentrated on Tony’s face as hard as I could and tried to sharpen my focus. I tried hard to process what he was saying as he grunted louder and louder while pointing at the window, and after a while I realised with a start what he was actually saying. I jumped out of bed to look for myself, and sure enough, outside the house there was a truck

Across

DOWN

1. Making checks - reprimanding (7,3)

1. Larceny (5)

7. Harem (8)

2. Book division — assembly of canons (7)

8. "Terrible" Russian ruler (4)

3. Vain — lazy (4)

9. Carry — betting system (4)

4. Branch of mathematics (8)

10. Instruct — admonish (7)

5. Pale — pass out (5)

12. Position of acute difficulty — pop group (4,7)

6. Zodiac sign (6)

14. Interrupt — burglary (5,2)

11. Gauge — approximation (8)

16. Area — Israeli port — Brazilian state (4)

12. Immediate - aim (6)

19. Tax — Northerner (4)

13. Anger — holy smoke! (7)

20. Lent — brought forward (8)

15. Greek — garret (5)

21. Film audition (6,4)

17. Build — straight up (5) 18. Still — quits (4)

I believe there should also be a mandatory ‘sobering up period’ law before people clearly under the influence of alcohol can be allowed to buy anything (or go home with anyone). Case in point, one Friday afternoon in 1992, three friends of mine and I were walking through a mall in Jakarta when we happened upon a display of Yamaha motorcycles. It was pay day, we had a lot of cash in our pockets and we had just left the pub after an approximately ten-course liquid lunch, so the shiny new motorbikes caught our eyes. Long story short, 30 minutes later we had handed over the cash, signed some papers, agreed some kind of deal with a handshake and staggered away.

After we had waved bye-bye to the beaming salesman, we decided to stop at another bar and have another quick drink to celebrate our purchases. Of course, we were well past the point of no return by this time, so it was actually around 2am before we took the magic carpet ride home to the house we shared in Tomang. We all made it to our beds and fell into comatose sleep, taking comfort in the knowledge that the next day was Saturday so we didn’t need to get up for work.

At 9am the following morning, I woke up to see my housemate Tony standing at the end of my bed wearing nothing but his underpants. My

with four f***ing motorbikes on it. Memories of the previous day came flooding back. Oh sh*t. What had we done?

After we had signed for the delivery, we stood in the driveway in our dressing gowns staring silently at four brand new and identical black, yellow and orange Yamaha Y T115s. They were a hell of a lot smaller than they had appeared the day before in the mall, and they were not nearly as cool as they had seemed when we had sat on them, leaning left and right and making silly motorbike noises while enthusiastically planning motorbike camping trips across the archipelago. My friend Mark broke the silence. “Do you think I can ride here without a license?” The rest of us shrugged and muttered unintelligibly. Dave chipped in with a relevant question. “Which one is mine?” We all shrugged and muttered again. Tony then spoke very seriously, putting an immediate stop to all the shrugging and mumbling and inducing hysterical laughter. “How the f*** do you drive one of these f***ing things anyway?”

He’d never driven a motorbike before in his life.

A mandatory sobering up period of at least 24 hours would definitely have saved us two million Rupiah each — in those days about a thousand dollars and almost an entire month’s salary!

To read more by Eamonn Sadler, go to www.eamonnsadler.com to find out more about live Stand-Up Comedy in Indonesia please e-mail info@jakartacomedyclub.com text or call 0821 1194 3084 or register at www.jakartacomedyclub.com

Answers of issue 120 ACROSS — 1. Impeachment 7. Icon 8. December 9. Embargo 11. Unite 13. Heath 14. Cutlass 16. Seasonal 17. Wave 18. Transaction DOWN — 1. Open 2. Bandage 3. Shock 4. Terminal 5. Incompetent 6. Twenty-seven 10. Artesian 12. Bullock 15. Gnash 17. Whip

SPOTTED!

"Plastic bags are having babies." Spotted by Jason Agutter in Bali Send your funny pictures to letters@indonesiaexpat.biz

WANT FREE TICKETS TO THE COMEDY CLUB? SMS YOUR NAMES FOR A CHANCE TO WIN 2 TICKETS TO JAKARTA OR BALI COMEDY CLUB!

0821 1194 3084

Congratulations to DWI NUGRAHA in JAKARTA! You and a friend will be enjoying the next comedy cluB ON US!

IS MADE POSSIBLE BY:

issue 121 indonesia expat

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ANNOUNCEMENTS

Ascott secures its first franchise agreement in Bali BALI CapitaLand’s wholly-owned serviced residence business unit, The Ascott Limited (Ascott), has secured its first franchise agreement in Bali. The agreement is for an operating serviced residence, a 194-unit Citadines Kuta Beach Bali that is scheduled to open in August this year.

The franchise for Citadines Kuta Beach Bali was awarded to PT Menara Permata Propertindo. Ascott is also managing Somerset Kencana Jakarta for the company and the property is slated to open in 2015.

Mr. Kenneth Rogers, Ascott’s Regional General Manager for Indonesia and Australia, said “Ascott has built a strong presence in Indonesia since we opened our first property in Jakarta in 1995 and also has grown to be the world’s largest international serviced residence owneroperator since opening our first property in Singapore 30 years ago. Majority of our guests are expatriates on relocation and business travellers, leisure travellers are also choosing to stay at our serviced residences. With Citadines Kuta Beach Bali, our guests can now enjoy the familiar homely environment in a renowned resort destination.”

Origin Charity Night event, which was located at Next Door, by providing a giant screen so that the guests could watch the match together. This was not the first time Hotel Kristal and Rotary International hosted a Charity event with the intention of raising much needed funds to support and assist underprivileged children at the Rawinala facility with their health and education.

MesaStila Challenge Ultra 2014 announces its plans this year, with added 60K Ultra Run MAGELANG, CENTRAL JAVA MesaStila Challenge announces it will be running for its third year on October 11 and 12, 2014. This is a unique and extreme outdoor running race event that aims to challenge the inner spirit, the physical state and the spirit of Javanese culture. Three years of successfully holding the Rails to Trails (half marathon running race) this year MesaStila Challenge 2014 comes with Ultra Race 60K with more challenges and magnificent beautiful sceneries, climbing up and crossing over four mountains — Mt. Andong 1,767m, Mt. Merbabu 3,145m, Mt. Telomoyo 1,916m, Mt. Gilipetung 1,450m — more than 4,500m altitude gain and following disused train tracks, uncovered railway bridges, overgrown jungle trails, small village roads, paddy and coffee plantation tracks and paths, finishing at MesaStila, the enticing Wellness Retreat. Visit the website for information on how to join: www.mesahotelsandresorts.com

The inaugural State of Origin Charity event held at the Kristal Hotel raises over US$30,000 for Rawinala School through Rotary Cilandak JAKARTA State of Origin is the annual best-of-three series of rugby league football matches between the Blues and the Maroons, who represent the Australian states of New South Wales and Queensland, respectively. On June 18, together with Rotary International, Hotel Kristal hosted the State of

Thanks to the extraordinary generosity of sponsors such as Asiadrill, Britmindo, AIDT, PT Powertrain, and Technidrill, the first ever State of Origin Rugby League Event was able to be held. Further support came via Qantas Airlines, Australian Embassy Jakarta, Express Hydraulics Australia and Reichdrill. Former Australian rugby league international and origin players Greg Conescu, Peter Ryan, and Chris Johns generously donated their time to attend the function, and were at hand to offer commentary and assist with the auction and raffle. A total in excess of US$30,000 has been raised and distributed to Rotary International, a selected charity organisation with a proven record of great results.

Sweet Boutique opens its doors at Hotel Indonesia Kempinski Jakarta “These tempting creations are the ultimate luxury indulgence,” said General Manager Marc Guenther. “Our new boutique will satisfy the cravings of both hotel guests and visitors, providing them with irresistible take-home treats or simply satisfying their cravings for mouth-watering delights when they stop by the hotel.”

HARRIS Hotel Seminyak is now open BALI Located in Seminyak, only a few steps away to boutiques, art galleries, restaurants, bars and the beach, HARRIS Seminyak offers 231 rooms, meeting rooms, HARRIS Cafe, HARRISSIMO Pizza, juice bar, fitness centre and swimming pools, H'spa, Happy Feet reflexology, Dino Kid's Club and a boutique. Visit www.seminyak-bali.harrishotels.com to make a reservation.

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indonesia expat issue 121

JAKARTA Bringing together the finest ingredients from Indonesia and the rest of the world, Hotel Indonesia Kempinski has launched Sweet Boutique

by Kempinski, a confectionery shop catering to the city’s ever-increasing demand for elegant desserts and bespoke cakes. The Sweet Boutique is located in the hotel lobby, easily accessible to discerning Jakartans who can either take away their delicacies or consume them in luxury at the Nirwana Lounge next to the shop.

The delicacies on offer are made from ingredients sourced from Indonesia and around the world, such as milk chocolate from Java, sea salt from Bali, dark chocolate from Central America and Central Africa, green tea from Japan, hazelnuts from Piemonte, and almonds from California. These choice elements have been hand-picked by the hotel’s passionate Executive Pastry Chef Jacques Poulain, who has more than 20 years of experience under his belt.

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EVENTS If you want your event to be posted here, please contact (+62) 0 21 7179 4550 or e-mail: events@indonesiaexpat.biz

ALL OF INDONESIA Elections

cosplay competitions. Oneday and two-day tickets are available in VIP or general levels, at www.rajakarcis.com. For a more detailed event breakdown, email afa@sozo.sg or visit www. animefestival.asia/afaid2014.

JCC is located on Jl. Gatot Subroto, South Jakarta.

Ramadhan Promo

Presidential Election 2014 9 July 2014 After an exciting round of debates for the past couple of Sundays, it is time for Indonesians to cast their votes on Wednesday, 9 July 2014 for the presidential elections. The nominees are Joko Widodo (with running mate Jusuf Kalla) and Prabowo Subianto (with running mate Hatta Rajasa). Exercise your voting rights!

JAKARTA Exhibition

Star Trek the Exhibition 31 May – 13 July 2014 The Star Trek E x hibition is open for public from 10am to 9pm daily at the Gandaria City Ground External, Jakarta. The exhibition, titled ‘ The Final Fr ont ier, i s a n i nt er a c t ive , museum-style event w ith all things Star Trek. For tickets, call (021) 5316 3240 or purchase them on www.kiostix.com. More information can be found on www.startrektheexhibition.com or www.panoramaliveintl.com.

Gandaria City is located on Jl. Sultan Iskandar Muda, Kebayoran Baru, South Jakarta.

Festival

Anime Festival Asia 2014 15 – 17 August 2014 Asia’s biggest Anime and Japanese pop culture festival returns to Indonesia. Hosted at the Jakarta Convention Centre (JCC), Anime Festival Asia 2014 will focus on popular content and the latest trends based on the interests of the Indonesian market. Guest singers and famous cosplayers will make appearances, among exciting daily events, like music concerts and

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indonesia expat issue 121

A Delightful Ramadhan at Park Lane Jakarta July 2014 For t he whole mont h of Ramadhan, you can break your fast at the Park Lane Hotel Ja k a r t a , w it h t heir specia l promotions. The hotel’s Cafe One serves Middle Eastern and Indonesian buffet for Rp.265K++ per person from Monday to Sunday. This includes free tajil, kurma, coffee and tea. Riva, another restaurant at the Park Lane Hotel also offers free tajil, kurma, coffee and tea before serving a la carte dinner menu, starting at 6pm. A corporate ‘buka puasa’ option is available at a promo price of Rp.250K++ per person (max. 100 pax) for a buffet dinner. The Park Lane Hotel is located on Jl. Casablanca Kav.18, Central Jakarta, and can be contacted on (021) 828-2000. www.parklanejakarta.com Theatre

L’Histoire du Soldat 11 – 12 July 2014 Teater Salihara will be host to a performance titled L’Histoire du Soldat, a story about a soldier based on the Russian folktale The Runaway Soldier and The Devil. Choreographer Gerard Mosterd is bringing the Javanese rendition with dancers as well as narrations by Rudy Wowor. The performance is set to start at 8pm on both days. To purchase tickets and for more information, contact 0817 077-1913 or email t i ket@sa li ha ra .org. Teat er Salihara is on Jl. Salihara No 16, Pasar Minggu, South Jakarta. www.salihara.org

Citywalk, Citragran, Cibubur. It will include Indonesian cultural carnival, traditional dances, band performances, games, a culinary festival, bazaar and lots more activities. For more information, call (021) 84300-818 or visit www. bazaarjakarta.com.

Gandaria City, Pacif ic Place, Pond ok I nd a h M a l l , Pl a z a Indonesia and Plaza Senayan, among many others (for a full list, refer to www.jakarta-greatsale.com). A city-wide spread, the Festival Jakarta Great Sale has been around since the 1980s to attract domestic tourists and to encourage locals to shop within the country. To know more about the promotions in each store, visit the participating malls or call (021) 2553-5002 and email secretariat.fjgs@yahoo.co.id. www.jakarta-great-sale.com Film

CIBUBUR Festival

7 June – 19 July 2014 This month-long shopping deal is valid throughout Jakarta, participating malls include FX,

Music Bali Ocean Swim No. 5

Ubud Village Jazz Festival 8 – 9 August 2014 The International Ubud Village Jazz Festival is coming back this year with the theme ‘Awakening Indonesia’. The festival w ill take place at the Agung Rai Museum Art (ARMA) on Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud. Gates will be open at 3pm on the first day of the festival. Tickets are Rp.350K for general daily entrance and Rp. 500K for 2 - d ay pa s se s.

Tickets may be purchased on www.rajakarcis.com or on www. ubudvillagejazzfestival.com.

Dreamfields Festival 16 August 2014 Experience the power of the mighty Garuda and electronic dance music, as the tagline for Dreamfields Festival suggests.

Dance to the music of international DJs from Holland, Australia and many more at Garuda Wisnu Kencana (GWK) Cultural Park.

Doors are open at 6pm and last exit is at 4am. This is an 18+ event.

For information on ticketing and accommodation near GWK, visit www.dreamfields.co.id. GWK is on Jl. Raya Uluwatu, Badung, Bali.

6 July 2014 Bali Ocean Swim offers race distances for experienced and recreational swimmers; 1.2K, 5K and 10K. The swim will start on Kuta Beach, and the 5K and 10K categories will go along the coast, weather permitting, to Seminyak and back. A ll sw immers are mon it or e d b y e x p e r ie nc e d lifeguards from Balawista Surf Lifesaving Club. All funds raised from the event will go toward providing swimming and water safety programs to children with disabilities. For more details about Bali Ocean Swim, email rodney@balisports.com or info@ balioceanswim.com. www.balioceanswim.com

Quiz night at Gracie Kelly’s

Cibubur Festival 30 – 31 August 2014 The second Cibubur Festival will take place along Jl. Raya

17 June – 17 July 2014 Tr y your tr iv ia a nd genera l knowledge skills on Tuesdays and Thursdays until 17 July 2014 at Gracie Kelly’s Irish Pub, located at the Bali Dynasty Resort, Jl. Kartika, Kuta. Starting at 7.30pm on Tuesdays, it is Family Charity Quiz night. Thursdays are general knowledge quiz night, starting at 8.30pm. To make reservations,

performance by the Whiffenpoofs.

A V IP buf fet dinner w ill be presented after the performance.

The August 1st event will be held at The Laguna Resort and the August 2nd event will be at St. Regis Bali. RSVP to (0361) 3005502 or send an email to secretary. thelagunabali@luxurycollection. com or secretary.stregisbali@ stregis.com. www.thelagunabali.com www.stregisbali.com

MANADO Festival

Tomohon International Flower Festival 8 – 12 August 2014 The town of Tomohon in North Sulawesi will be in full blossom as the Tomohon International Flower Festival star ts, w ith events such as Flower Beauty Queen Contest; Tourism, Trade and Floriculture Exhibition and Arts & Culture Festival. The biannual flower festival will also have flower floats from different countries going down Tomohon’s main avenues. Call 0853 40777575 or 0813 4127-8087 for more details on the festival. www.tomohonflowerfestival.com

Bali Paragames

ABROAD

23 – 27 July 2014 The second Bali Paragames is fast approaching w ith 12 events of competition, among which are sw imming, blind s o c c e r, b a d m i nt on , c he s s , power lif ting, wheelcha ir basketball, IPC shooting, blind judo and wheelchair archery.

To participate, be involved in, or for general inquiries, email info@balisports.com or visit www.baliparagames.com.

Photography

Charity

Hangout

Shopping Festival Jakarta Great Sale

Sports

BALI

Wes Anderson Film Festival 1 – 4 July 2014 The quirky American director, Wes Anderson, have made many movies with a distinguishing family theme that has gained him devoted fans all over the world. @America is showing Anderson’s films at 2pm-5pm every day of the showing. There will be discussions and prizes after the showing. The films to be viewed are Bottle Rocket and Rushmore (July 1), The Royal Tenenbaums (July 2), The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou (July 3) and Fantastic Mr. Fox (July 4). @America is located at the third level of Pacific Place Mall, Jakarta. For more information, call 0857 9650-2952 or visit www. atamerica.or.id.

or for general inquiries, call (0361) 752-403 or email events@ balidynasty.com. www.balidynasty.com

The Yale Whiffenpoofs for UNICEF 1 – 2 August 2014 St. Regis Bali Resort and The Laguna Bali have organized a charity night to benefit UNICEF. The night will be livened up with a performance by the legendary Ya le W h i f fenpoof s a c apel la group from Yale University. The charity evening includes a cocktail reception, followed by a special

Sri Lanka Photography Tour 4 – 15 August 2014 David Metcalf is offering you a chance for an odyssey you don’t want to miss; a photography tour to Sri Lanka. Amidst the architecture ruins, w ildlife, beautif ul tea pla nt ations, colourful ceremonies, rainforests and mountain peaks, capture some of the greatest images of your lifetime. ‘Sri Lanka — The Undiscovered C ountr y ’ w ill be g uided by sea soned photographers, David Metcalf and Mark Rayner. Photographers will start in Colombo with vibrant street photography to Balipitya with its extensive birdlife, then to Koggara where f ishermen balance themselves on stilts with the sunset on the background. To join this photography tour, send an e-mail to davidmetcalf3@ m a c . c o m o r v i s i t w w w. davidmetcalfphotography.com

MOVIE

SELAMAT PAGI, MALAM

GOOD MORNING, NIGHT

By Gabriella Panjaitan

Jakarta is so much more than meets the eye.

Behind all the night lights and afternoon smoke of pollution and crowds bustling, there is a different face of Jakarta. It seems that behind one mask, another reveals itself, like peeling an onion. To be frank, the Jakarta scene is more truthful and honest at night, when the underbelly society meets the darkness of the night, creating raw explosions only few creatures of the night would know.

This is when the whispers of passion and perhaps a dash of crime are brought to [dim] light. But above it all, Jakarta is a city that thrives and survives.

A new movie by newcomer director Lucky Kuswandi, depicts that kind of Jakarta, a city that was described by him as a “prostitute”, having its cracks and being far from perfect, but one that goes on living life as best as it knows how.

Selamat Pagi, Malam (In the Absence of the Sun) was premiered and opened for public viewing on 19 June, 2014. The 94-minute film is equipped with English subtitles, and casually slips in conversational English in to the dialogue. As one of the most creative young filmmakers of the era, Kuswandi has said that this film is a very personal one for him, taking scenes from different stages of his relationship with the city. The title is derived from the characters’ union with a night in Jakarta, where the line between morning and night is at times blurred together.

Taken from three angles, the film uses a parallel multi-perspective view of a night out in town. The main characters involved experience a different night compared to what they had imagined to have. Their paths cross during the course of the night, but never officially meet with each other, creating an impression of fleeting serendipity in the city’s urban life. With their unique intents of how to spend a night out in Jakarta, they end up with more than they bargained for, but ultimately reaches emotional resolution as the night comes to a close and it is time to say ‘good morning, night’, or ‘selamat pagi, malam’.

The film starts with a portrayal of Jakarta that is easily seen and experienced; the heat, the traffic jams, the public transportation and street food. Slowly but surely, different layers of the city are illustrated, including the underground night life, social disparities and prostitution. However, the film does not forget to include happier notes, like finding joy in eating street food, nostalgic elements when walking down a neighbourhood where one spends their childhood and hearing laughter of children, living carefree and cheerfully. Gia, played by actress Adinia Wirasti, is a 30-yearold Indonesian who spent the better part of the last decade in New York City, USA. Her return to Jakarta was welcomed by a nagging mother, self-absorbed peers and an uppity society; a complete 180 from the Jakarta she was used to. With a new view of this seemingly

odd Jakarta, Gia, feeling out of place, takes soul mate Naomi (Marissa Anita) on an adventure for the night, resulting in a sombre realization of Jakarta’s circumstances and having to come to terms with striving to find her ‘place’ in the city.

From another angle, Indri (Ina Panggabean) just wants to live a little in this city of possibilities. Through her love of online chatting, she sets up a date with a too-good -to-be-true man, and was disappointed upon meeting him. The excitement of a thriving night in Jakarta was finally had by Indri, with someone she meets at a random chance encounter. Such is the potential of an unpredictable big city.

Mrs. Surya, affectionately referred to as ‘Ci Surya’ for her Chinese heritage, is a mourning widow and the story’s third vantage point.

Having just lost respect for her deceased husband, Mr. Surya (who encountered proof of his cheating with a lady named Sophia), she sets out to find Sophia (played by singer Dira Sugandi), who works as a singer-cumprostitute at a dingy lounge of a dodgy love hotel. Ci Surya, never truly finding her ‘place’ outside of associations to her husband, experimented with what the night has to offer — booze, drugs, etc. — perhaps even picturing herself in her late husband’s position when he comes to these ‘nocturnal’ places. Eventually, Ci Surya finds peace in understanding the poignant nature of desire, the ephemeral essence of moments and ultimately knowing herself as simply Sara, instead of Mrs. Surya.

The dynamics of an urban life is cooked and presented well in this homage to Jakarta. It was purposefully premiered close to Jakarta’s 487th anniversary in celebration of the vibrant city. Newcomers, expats and tourists (even long-time residents of Jakarta) could take a pointer or two on how to familiarize themselves with Jakarta’s ways by viewing this film. You’d be surprised of how many clichés we commit just because we have grown accustomed to a certain lifestyle in Jakarta. This movie encourages its viewers to take a step back and review on the things we do in the name of being ‘accepted’ in this city. Selamat Pagi, Malam is a big ball of emotion and it will take you on a rollercoaster ride through it all; sadness, happiness, contentment, surprise and even remorse.

The Jakarta that continues to thrive despite its idiosyncrasies is reflected in the inhabitants of the city itself. Jakartans are survivors, they adapt well to changing environments, even if at times they feel like ‘there’s no place for us here’, as the tagline suggests. Settling in to this city is not without its challenges; even those who are return visitors face problems adjusting back to the lifestyle. Selamat Pagi, Malam offers a glimpse of the struggle and complications that make Jakarta a unique city to live in. Jakarta is pictured in this film as the true city that never sleeps.

All photos above courtesy of www.kepomponggendut.com

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HAVE SOMETHING TO SELL? Looking for something to buy? Looking for staff? Selling property? Or need a place to live? Why not place your classified ad with Indonesia Expat! Your classified will be placed once for 2 weeks online and once in our printed version which has a circulation of 15.000 copies bi-weekly. Next deadline: 9 July

CONDITIONS Personal classifieds Commercial classifieds

Free of Charge (50 words max) Rp. 100,000 (0–50 words) Rp. 200,000 (50–100 words)

Property listings are considered as Commercial.

Adding an image incurs an extra charge of Rp.150,000. Business Listings can only be placed on the Business Listings page (p.30) Send in your classifieds to ads@indonesiaexpat.biz

JAKARTA AUTOMOTIVE We a re mov ing out (end of contract) of Jakarta soon and would like to sell our Toyota Fortuner 2013, diesel with good price. Call me at: 08111-55-8590 for further details.

Honda CRV all-new 2.0. th. 2008, Silverstone, ex women, new taxes extended, leather seats, TV, 3 digit police number, well maintained, tires are still good, fast, can be helped to his credit with DP Rp. Jt-40', seriously contact : 081 318 747 770

For sale Mercy S280 Year.2001.

Black metallic, Great condition, A/T, ST N K Jun15 (recently renewed/extended), Original rims, Leather seats, Km.44000.

Price: 300million (Nego). Call 0811-9101020.

JOBS

Jobs available Indonesia Expat is recruiting!

Indonesia Expat is looking for a Graphic Designer (local) to join our team under the supervision of our Head Designer. The Ideal candidate should have two years experience in magazine design and layout, w ith experience in creative a dver tisement creation. Please send CV with prev ious work ex a mple s t o info@indonesiaexpat.biz Only successful candidates will be contacted for interview. Good luck!

Photoshop Assistant required We seek a talented, creative assistant on occasional weekends to help with the Photoshop aspects of our Visual Art projects. This person needs good English and advanced Photoshop knowledge.

If this sounds like you, be in contact! E-mail: terese_storey@ yahoo.co.nz

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indonesia expat issue 121

Want to volunteer with a young social enterprise? At ‘Ffrash’ we offer a challenging volunteering opportunity for a target-driven, experienced sales professional (f lexible hours, 3 days a week).

‘Ffrash’ is a recently introduced interior design brand, with a social and sustainable character. ‘Ffrash’ produces high-quality sustainable design furniture and home interior products from Indonesian trash.

The products are designed on a pro bono basis by internationally renowned Dutch designers and created by former Indonesian street children from the ages 17 to 19. We have recently started selling our products in Indonesia.

The proceeds benefit the further development of the ‘Ffrash’ young adults, production, and training.

Remaining revenues will be put aside to finance the start-up costs of their own enterprise in the near future. The higher the sales, the more will be saved for the ‘Ffrash’ artisans for their future plans and the more street children will be able to join the project. Therefore, we are currently looking for a Sales Volunteer for Jakarta. For more information, please contact Gina Provó Kluit at 0811-9107399 or gina@ffrash.com. For more information about ‘Ffrash’, please visit our website www.ffrash.com Full Time and Part Time vacancies are now available for experienced English language instructors for corporate courses around Jakarta. Competitive rates and travel allowance are offered. Please send your CV to recruitment@ kpiconsultancy.com Looking for Work Looking for a job as a maid, part-time. I’m 37 years old, I have some references from my experiences. I speak English, live out, Monday-Saturday. Please call me at 0817763990.

SERVICES PRIVATE BAKING LESSONS Private Baking lessons. 2 days course at your place (required to have an oven); utensils and ingredients provided. Price : 1.000k/ person for basic cake course . 2 person at a time. By a n ex per ienced ba ker. Ca ll: Niko.082123542829 Spanish Tutor — Learn Spanish at your place with a DELE Certified Examiner from Spain. Most of my students come from International

Schools (JIS and BIS). Please call me (Raúl) +6282110502786 Email: unascartas@yahoo.com Hello, I am Herry professional greeting ser vice at Soekarno Hatta airport Jakarta. Need Fast Track Immigration upon arrival and departure including check in assistance and porterage e t c . , pl e a s e c o nt a c t m e a t 081317927009, 087808522300, pin 7a4da199. Thanks.

Hi....I am a male singer. can sing any kind of songs. I usually sing on parties,such as wedding or birthday party.i'd love to if there is any chance for me to be join any kind of band.email me at mjazzmark@gmail.com French tutor: Learn french at your place with a native with university and french institute teaching ex per ience. C ont a c t ez moi: 081296710232 or aheilliette@ gmail.com Want to learn batik making process at your place with your friends or family? Please call me at 0812 1010 9792 (only for South Jakarta) Hi! I am Dyah. If you need to learn bahasa Indonesia, I would like to give you a lesson. I have experience in giving bahasa Indonesia lessons for foreign speaker (kids and adults). So, if you have interest to learn bahasa Indonesia, don't hesitate to contact me at my email address tedy.aries@gmail.com or my cell phone #082111005582# JCC W IN ES A N D SPIR ITS COLLECTIVE. A wide range of great wines and spirits delivered to your door free of charge! Email: info@jccwinesandspirits.com.

See www.jccwinesandspirits.com PERSONAL INVESTIGATION AND SECURITY SERVICES. Full service for all your personal and commercial needs. Intelligence g at her i ng a nd ba c k g r ou nd investigation. Partner, spouse.

Discreet service. Text only to 0816 1716 1686.

JCC VISA SERVICE. All kinds of Indonesian visas available, visa problems solved. No problem too large or too small. We’ve been doing visas since 2001 so we have friends in all the right places!

Email info@jakartacomedyclub. com. Text 0821 1194 3084.

L I V E I N T ER NAT IONA L S TA N D -U P C OME DY I N INDONESIA. Jakarta and Bali Comedy Clubs bring international comedians to Jakarta and Bali every month for LIVE shows. If you would like to join the club in Jakarta or Bali please text your name and email address to 0821 1194 3084 or send your name and mobile number by email to info@ jakartacomedyclub.com and tell us which club you would like to join. We will do the rest!

Tutoring services throughout i nt er n at ion a l s t udent s. We prov ide tutor in all subjects including Mathematics, Physics, Chemistry, Biology, Economics, Accounting,Bussiness, English, Chinese, French, Bahasa Indonesia, etc. For Primar y, Secondary (IGCSE/MYP), Senior High, IB (SL/HL), A/AS Level, SAT and also for students who want to apply for SIMAK UI. - Tutor comes to your house - Tutorial is explained in English - We make sure we match you with the right tutor Promo May & June 2014 : Free of Registration Fee (Save up to Rp 500.000,-). Discrete Private G D C , M e l a t i , C 3 - 2 5 . H P. 0821 3600 8800 (Mr. Asep).

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Rella's Kitchen provides Catering with your Choice of difference cuisines. L et us k now what you want and we w ill create the food experience to fill your needs Intimate gatherings, big parties, or office functions - Rella's Kitchen is at your services Email : rellaskitchen@gmail.com PROPERTY

interested, please contact S. P Singh: 0816 1880-360 or 0816 174-15535.

UNIQUE APARTMENT FOR A BACHELOR !

- on f loor 25, with a stunning view to the south through a 7x8m window - one spa c e , 7m h ig h, w it h mezzanine - can be used as off ice or as residence - swimming pool on floor 7 - next to the Intercontinental Hotel - mall with restaurants, café’s and convenience stores on the ground floor - rented out furnished - available end of june 2014 price: US $ 1,750 / month period: minimum 1 year contact: HANS VAN OS / 0811 993 4659 / essenburg.hans@ gmail.com

Simprug Indah Apt for rent. 3 bed 2 bath + maid quarter. Fully furnished. USD 1000/month.

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Penthouse for sale!!! For sale penthouse at Apar tment A m b a s s a d o r (3 1 6 m 2 ) . I f

For Rent a bra nd new u n it apartment at 1Park Residences Gandaria Kebayoran Baru Unit size 94 sqm, 2 Bedrooms Corner, 2 Bathrooms, Living r o om , D i n i ng r o om . S em i private elevator. Furnished condition. Service area include ser vant room+bathroom and laundr y room. Ser v ice area with separate access to service elevator. Very nice view to Jl. Radio Dalam and Blok M area.

24 hours security with access card to entrance area. Facilities include Parking Access for 1 car, Swimming pool, Gymnasium, Tennis court, Jogging track and Children Playground. Rent: USD. 1,800.00/month. Inquiry and appointment, call: Padua Property Agency – Cell: +62811 961 763 Nice House for Rent in Bintaro Sector 1: Jl.Bintaro Raya Tengah H3/9. Land : 180 sqm; Building : 150 sqm, 1 living, 1 dining, kitchen, 2 bedroom,1 bathrooms, ser va nt s qtrs,unf ur nished., carport, individual well ,electricity 4.400W , 2 A/C , 1 water heater.

Price: IDR 75.000.000,-/ 2 years Call: Arya 082112367888 OTHER For sale fast collection diamondshaped ruby belt ​​ necklace Koye + certificate and antiques such as old rags Limar songket, bronze statues, ceramic china and old paintings Indonesia, serious buyers contact +6281318747770

Available for rent mi 1 year, exclusive 1 BR 77m2 apartment fully furnish, @ senayan residence apartemen pls call 08111908856 - owner FOR R E N T 350 Hou se s at Kemang, Cipete, Cilandak, Jeruk purut, Pondok Indah, Big Garden, Swimming Pool, U$ 2000 - U$ 7000. Phone: 0816859551 or 08170093366

e a c h a p p r o x 5 0 0M 2 h o u s e with 1,000 M2 land, located at Jl.Margasatwa Raya, 10 Minutes to Cilandak Commercial Estate, @ USD 2,500,- to USD 3,000,per month with min one year lease. If interested (no Broker/ Agent), call owner 0811180605

Houses for Rent: 2 nice houses 2 storey, one large join pool, beautiful garden, 24 security c ompou nd , no c ement wa l l between houses in the compound,

Blackberry Bellagio 9790 for Sale — slim and sleek, perfect for any age. Black touchscreen phone with an optical trackpad. Designed for anyone—from businessmen to the sociable younger generation.

Camera produces high-quality photos and high-definition videos.

Two FREE dashing phone covers are also included in the sale!

More details: beatricelyt@gmail. com

A DIDA S TAY L OR M A DE GOLF CLUB SET FOR SALE – elegant and chic. This set of irons significantly enhances quality of the ball f light and promotes dramatic improvement in iron play. Lightweight carry-bag with generous pockets and comfortable strap. Great option for a very reasonable price. More details: beatricelyt@gmail.com Hurry while stock lasts!

Wanted: a kitchen with electricity, sinks, bench tops and space to include a table and fridges.

Wanted for food preparation and storage. Please contact me to discuss prices. beckyduffield@ gmail.com

BALI PROPERTY VILLA FOR RENT - GUNUNG S A L A K : C om for t able t wo bedroom villa for short term rent. Two hours dr ive f rom Jakarta. Great views, peaceful rural environment, cool weather (@700 metres). One km from P ura Pa ra hya nga n ( la rgest Balinese temple in Java), National Park and Highland Park Resort.

For more information, email: gunungsalakvilla@gmail.com

tropic a l sur round ings. The property comprises 3 bedrooms, elegant en-suite bathrooms with mosaic tiles, custom made porcelain bathtubs, complete with a rain head showers and decorated and furnished in a Moroccan style. Contact Annie Dean Mobile: +62 (0)81 3394 55009 Office: +62 (361) 737 357

Zen Villa 2 bdrms 2 ensuites plunge pool bale bengong air cond ceiling fans fully furnished 2 TV's Printer/copier/scanner WiFi parking 24/7 security. Available now US $20000 pa. Apply to allan.liene@gmail.com

JOGJAKARTA OTHER

SUKABUMI SERVICES For Jawa Barat area, especially Sukabumi Area. When you Need for car and driver with english language I am more than happy to serve you. +6281380191913, yahya.al.jari@tri.blackberry.com

PELABUHAN RATU PROPERTY

Tr o p i c a l , L u x u r y V i l l a i n Jimbaran With 44 Years Lease — This stunning tropical luxury property benefits from a prime location in Jimbaran, in southern Bali, set amongst the best 5 star hotels; The Four Seasons Hotel and Intercontinental Resort and is only a short walk to the beach and Bali’s famous beachfront seafood cafes. This surprising property is set on 38.6 are. The villa enjoys a secluded large pr ivat e ga rden a nd pr ivate swimming pool, which views directly out onto the verdant,

outdoor terrace, sea view, spacious garden, swimming pool, 4 bedrooms and 3 bathrooms, complete kitchen, TV and Wi fi. Idyllic place for couples or families. Separate guesthouse with 1 bathroom and 2 bedrooms.

Friendly staff and female cook.

In house catering. Prices starting from IDR 1,499,000 per night for the main villa and IDR 800,000 for our Guesthouse, Villa Gamrang is highly appreciated by expat s and Indonesian families. Reservations. www. villa-gamrang.nl or just mail us directly at villagamrang@ gmail.com

Di scover Vi l la Gamrang.

Experience our hospitality and stay in your own beach house.

Vi l la Gamrang (Cisolok, 4 hours ‘drive from Jakarta and 50 minutes from Sawarna beach ) is designed to offer guests a beautiful nature, complete privacy and luxury. Recently listed (Jan 9, 2014) in the "Top 100 Holiday Beach Houses around the world", Guardian Newspaper. Stylish interior,

Experience staying at a beautiful, original antique Javanese Joglo house in the foothills of Mount Merapi. Joglo Ago is a three double be d ro om v i l la w it h gardens, perfect for a weekend retreat from the hustle and bustle of city life. In close proximity to Mount Merapi and Borobudur Temple. Visit www.jogloago.com for more information or call Indah 08123563626 or 0811268445.

SURABAYA PROPERTY

DO YOU HAVE AN EXISTING PENSION IN THE UK? REGAIN CONTROL WITH A QROPS. House for sale in a quiet residential estate. Land size 600m2, building size 250m2, 1 floor. The property includes a beautiful front and back tropical garden, 3 bedrooms (1 ensuite), 2 bathrooms, a large living area and a small front room. The back garden includes a pavillion which can be used as an extra room or storage. The property includes 1 maid room and 1 maid bathroom. For sale unfurnished, certif icate ‘hak milik’. Only serious candidates please. Deal directly with the owner, Ibu Indah. Please call 0811268445 or 08123563626.

KEY ADVANTAGES OF A QUALIFIED RECOGNISED OVERSEAS PENSION SCHEME: • FLEXIBLE BENEFITS – UP TO 30% OPTIONAL LUMP SUM AND/ OR INCOME FROM AGE 55 • SUCCESSION PLANNING – PENSION NOT SURRENDERED ON DEATH, BENEFITS PASS TO NOMINATED BENEFICIARIES • TAX EFFICIENCY – BENEFITS FALL OUTSIDE UK INCOME AND INHERITANCE TAX REGIMES • INVESTMENT CHOICE – NO OBLIGATION TO PURCHASE AN ANNUITY. CHOOSE FROM A WIDE RANGE OF ASSET CLASSES

FOR MORE INFORMATION ON QROPS PLEASE E-MAIL INFO@GMS-FINANCIAL.COM OR CALL (021) 520 3574

PT ARIPA MAKMUR PERSADA Graha Aktiva (American Express Building) 4 th Floor, Suite 405, Jl. H. R. Rasuna Said, Kuningan, Jakarta 12950 - Indonesia

KOMODO Land for sale in Seraya Island, Labuan Bajo, Komodo,with an area of 25 hectare..minimum pur cha s e of l and i s 12 hectares. Only 10 minutes from mainland. You can send email to: chandrahary07@yahoo.com or call me at 082110118173 or 085736602000.. haryanto.asking price Rp. 300.000/m2

Contact us for competitive advertising rates and get noticed through our printed publication, e-newsletter and on our website. ads@indonesiaexpat.biz

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INDONESIA EXPAT DIRECTORY

INDONESIA EXPAT DIRECTORY

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Safe Stories Counselling Service for Children and Young People Offering Play, Art and Drama Therapy Global Doctor Indonesia Jalan Kemang Raya 87 12730, Jakarta Selatan, Indonesia Phone: +62 (0) 21 719 4565 E-mail: tessa@globaldoctor.co.id

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Contact: Paul Beale Mobile: +62 816 137 0663 Office: +62 21 522 0990 E-mail: paulbeale@gms-financial.com

Bartele Gallery is the only dedicated shop in Indonesia which focuses on antique maps, prints, photographs, books and antiquities, ideal for a unique gift for that special someone. Come and browse through hundreds of old and original maps and prints from all across the globe!

Call us +62 (0) 21 719 0087 or E-mail: bartele.santema@gmail.com and visit our Facebook: facebook.com/ bartelegallery for more information.

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indonesia expat issue 121