WINTER 2010
ink magazine staff & contributers winter 2010 fashion department
Department Head: Promise Newell -Interns: Monica Merel, Liz Osban, Tracey Mathewson, Taylor Bryant , Alex Taitague -Stylists: Tori McBride, Liz Cherkasova (of www.pocultureafternoon.blogspot.com), the Hahns, Chrissie White -Fashion Photography Editor: John Troxel Staff Fashion Photographers: Alicia Vega, Joy Newell, Ewa Kniaziak, Jake Sigl -Contributing Photographers: Maurice Sampson, -Contributing Designers: Tori McBride, Ann Yee, Amelia Lindquist (of Peeps), J. Alexander, Pipertree Leather, Via Spiga hair & make-up
Tori McBride, Lauren Szandzik photography department
Department Head: Joy Newell -Contributers: Katie Silvester, Crista Leonard, Joy Newell, Nikoline L. Rasmussen, Mary Robinson, Chloe Scheffe fine art department
Department Head: Mike Bailey-Gates music department
Department Head: Cody Bralts -Writers: Sterling Rose, Kenny Price, Ian O'Hare -Contributers: Mo & Joel graphic design department
Department Head: Chloe Scheffe -Filled & Open: Anika VanBoom, Jeff Stien, Aaliyeh Asfar models
Danielle Shue, Courtney Alexis M, Talisa Soto, Anna C, Fraser Grahm, Jaime Levick, Liz Cherkasova Alex Hahn, Rebecca Hahn, Catlin Hahn, Mo & Joel Nikoline L. Rasmussen, Andrea Lang, Cammie Norsworthy, Laura Sack, Ana Drobeniuc, Lisa Marie all contributers to ink magazine retain sole copyright to their work. please contact ink magazine with any questions. we would love hear from you! want to get involved with ink?
Write for us, photograph for us, style for us, draw for us! Contact us! We always reply, and love to get young and emerging artists involved! inkmagemail@gmail.com attention fashion designers!
We are always looking to collaborate with designers on shoots. If interesrted, please contact John Troxel. johntroxelphotography@gmail.com visit our blog!
http://inkmagazineblog.blogspot.com Our new website, designed by Jake of www.uniit.au, is launching soon. Stay tuned for the Spring 2010 one full year issue! This page: photographed by Chloe Scheffe | styled by Chrissie White | modeled by Lisa Marie
w w w. A N N Y E E c o l l e c t i o n . c o m
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contents all mixed up
| by Promise Newell
| by Jon McBride crimes of fashion | by Alex Taitague art basel miami | by Monica Merel dark matter | by Cammie Norsworthy different strokes | by Joy Newell mo & joel
looking inside out on street fashion in leeds, uk | by Tracy Mathewson
82 glamophonic, a history
features 18 22 30 36 46 56 72
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king of the manifestos j. alexander a pastel romance wanderlust vintage winter native instinct autumn’s innocence
| by Liz Osban
all mixed up when 80’s hard-edge meets the subtle femininity of the 70’s, where does one draw the line?
by Promise Newell
80’s hard-edge meets the subtle femininity of the 70’s, where does one draw the line? When the notorious Marc Jacobs debuted his Fall 2009 collection to rave reviews which evoked the late aughts with a sense of mashed up party-dom, it was official: the 80’s, in all their cataclysmic, shoulder-padded, hair sprayed glory, were officially back. After the endless monotony of season after season of an Olsen induced boho craze, finally, the fashion world had something ample to sink their claws into. Over this past 80’s crazed year, we have witnessed a dramatic shift from a waify, naturalistic image to an embossed, glorified dramatic persona. Ultimately, leather became the new denim. With intense backing from powerhouse corporations including team Vogue, as well as all of the Elle Magazine divisions, we rode this era through the new year, in sequined adorned party dresses and sparkling smoky winged eyes.
when
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Yet, somewhere in between the notion of a much coveted return to the hard-edge glory days, rock inspired spiked Givenchy headbands, and motorcycle booties, a new, (or rather old) trend emerged: during the Spring 2010 Fashion Week frenzy, fashion celebrities, editors, and street style fanatics including Anna Della Russo and Carine Roitfield stepped out in flowy, earth-laden wear. Does this fashion flashback represent a glitch in our newness obsessed, consumeristic approach to fashion? Has our disposable society already hung the 80's out to dry? Judging from the Spring 2010 lines, it is clear that the 70's, in all of their soft, diffused glory are making a hopeful comeback. Again. Just when we thought it was time to pack away those high-waisted, wide legged jeans with the patent leather accessories of seasons past, there might be reason enough to bring them back. The lightweight pastel pallet at Alberta Ferretti, complex prints at Versace, and intense psychedelia at Rodarte proved to
be just enough to put this beloved time-warp en route to a flagship near you. However, cult houses from the likes of Lanvin and Ann Demuelemeester to Balmain clearly disagreed. Intense distressing, one-shouldered wonders, and sequins galore stated that the 80's have arrived, and they're "Stayin' Alive". The plight of this seasons 80's vs. 70's charade has ultimately divided the fashion world into two sections: those who wish stay in the past, and, well... those who stay in the past. So which decade can really be considered fashion forward? If the likes of the house of Chloe and Hannah MacGibbon can't even successfully coordinate this ever lingering transition (according to style.com), than how can we? It's in times like these that we must trust in our fashion fore-fathers, to guide us through our mixed up references. In this case, Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel. Peasanty, hippieish lace and ivory transparency were juxtaposed with tough
structuring, black, and rough textures. Ultimately- the perfect balance between the feminine and masculine that makes a supreme collection. It was a return to a time, a place, a belief that fashion can transcend a generation, and instead instill in us a era that is as much apart of regeneration, rebellion, and romance, than any decade ever was before.
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mo & joel interview by Tori McBride
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When did you start playing music together? In Mexico, sort of by accident. Mo was staffing for an organization, YWAM, which hosts teams to build houses for the poorest people of Tijuana. Joel was joining a team from Canada as a filmmaker to document their trip. Music and singing was a large part of the experience with the teams singing together for the mornings and evenings. We just sort of happened to sing a song together one night and that was it. What is your style? Who are your influences? Right now we are just running with an acoustic guitar and a our two voices - a very stripped down feel. We like the more intimate sounds and lyrics that are easy to listen to and engaging. The experience of writing or hearing a lyric that expands perspective and invokes feeling is like nothing else. Our influences include Over The Rhine, Feist, Beatles, Glen Hansard and MarkĂŠta IrglovĂĄ, Eva Cassidy, Radiohead, U2, Martin Sexton, Damien Rice, Leonard Cohen, the list goes on and on... Is there a message you want your music to get across? Ya, there is definitely a message, a point to what we do. Our hope is that people will hear in our music the presence of hope that is pulsing, often just under the surface, in this world. Its the kind of thing that we need to be more aware of in this world, and need more reminders of. The stuff dragging us down can become so overwhelming that we need new perspectives everyday. We want our music to be shining the diamond of Hope, but also we want to do that with our entire lives. What inspires your music? Many things bring inspiration, and what that is each and every time is pretty different. The earth that surrounds is filled with beauties and scraps
that get into the soul. We're inspired when we see our God living in the people around us when good things are happening and justice is being had for the underdogs of the world. Where have you played around Chicago? Any upcoming shows? We've played at Uncommon Ground, the Buzz Cafe, the Ignite Network, the Open Hearth Cafe (since closed down), Fitzgeralds, living rooms, fireplaces... Right now we are working on new songs so we don't have any shows planned for the foreseeable future. When we're ready with our songs, we'll be posting our shows on the website. Do you ever perform with other musicians? Mo has played with a friend and fellow singer/songwriter Sharon Dodgson for a number of years and quite often we all play together. Her music is fresh and honest and she is cool musician to jam with. You can check out her music at www.myspace. com/sharondodgson. What's your favorite part about performing? The community that live music creates is for us always the best part about playing live. When everyone starts bobbing their heads or tapping their foot it brings with it an awesome sense of unity. What do you hope to do in the future? To keep creating honest music from the heart and to have opportunities to play it to anyone who gets it. If we can do that more in the future than that is all we can ask for. How can people hear more from you? Go to myspace.com/mobellaandjoel or facebook.com and search "mobella + joel" for our music pages. We are currently working on fresh songs and will be posting them in the near future.
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crimes of fashion
how far will you go to get your hands on the goods?
by Alex Taitague
earlier this year i moved to berkeley, ca, far and away from the rich empty suburbs of the Inland Empire where the young people live with their parents from which I hail. Not that residential areas are a bad thing, but it must be understood the crippling effects it has on your wardrobe. Perhaps those of you who had parents so desperate to stay young that they indulged every vintage or designer fiber you laid eyes on should stop reading now. Naturally, because we “youngins” are of the generation of lazy jobless vain bohemians, consuming clothes at the dangerous rate we would all like to assume is not always possible. Let’s face it, we are not so hip that we would refuse clothes our parents bought us, but we are not all so financially welloff, no matter how good we look. But that never stopped any suburbanites from trying to fill up their walk-in closets with the trendiest threads as a means to stand out in such wholesomely bland wastelands. And now that I am cozily tucked away in one of the many pockets of the buzzing bay area, I find that not much has changed. Lazy jobless and vain bohemian college students swarm this city. The Buffalo Exchange is sucked dry, the vintage stores are over-priced, the men and women’s American Apparel line Telegraph Avenue, and Urban Outfitter is a block away. Fashion for the masses...those who can afford it. Yet everywhere I look there is some outrageous outfit that would surely offend the stagnant sensibilities of anyone over the age of forty. It occurs to me that none of my friends here can really afford the clothes they are wearing. Not that the clothes themselves are too particularly expensive, just the sheer volume of clothes is enough to see that something is not adding up. Bottom line: the fuckers are shoplifting. In this urban area, I began to wonder who among this crowd actually bought their clothes. I look for tears in the clothes that indicate an alarm ripped right through the fabric and discarded into some nook of a robbed stored. Even more so, I wonder who among the suburbs stole too? And the end-all question: why? We might all be willing to steal food for survival, but these kids are not exactly naked. In fact, they have plenty of clothes that should sate their vanity. The disconnection between our desires and our finances has reared its ugly consumerist head and gazed deeply into the face of legality. I could get all collegestudenty on you and talk about Nietzsche’s will to power to live dangerously, to be robbers and thieves if not rulers and conquerors, to live beyond morality, to be the Übermensch but I’ll spare you all that talk and say simply
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this: our beloved celebrities taught us all we know about shoplifting! Blame them! To add to the confusion, celebrities have been shoplifting for quite some time. It is not as if they do not have the money to buy the clothes they steal. To do a quick recap: Winona Ryder, Courtney Love, Farrah Fawcett Jennifer Capriati. This is to say nothing of the other nameless famed-filchers who have been allegedly stealing from the up-scale boutiques of Los Angeles for the past few decades. But all of the above have been charged with shoplifting, to their dismay, except perhaps for Courtney Love, who just used it to add to her badass image. Obviously, it is not purely financial need that drives this crime. In fact, it is one of the most common property crimes; yes, that is from wikipedia so it is legit. While this fact may be facilitated by poverty, a true genuine need for clothing, it cannot explain the vast decadence of theft by an affluent society. Could it simply be that cheap thrills cannot hold a candle to free thrills? The rush of stealing may just be another facet of humanity’s ability to quell the surfeit of our desire. It is an exemplary crime in regards to the network of laws and norms of society; they are all imagined up ideas that we conform to, and that they are only as real as much as they are enforced. But what is it about clothing that garners such thieves? There must be some deeper psychological issue here. The thrill of stealing can certainly make one feel like a different person, much like an actor, fulfilling a role meant for one to play (*Ahem*, most of the celebrity shoplifters are actors!). There may even be a link between that and the idea of clothing ourselves. What else are we doing when we put on clothes, other than putting on costumes; than obscuring ourselves in our most natural state? Wearing clothes is simply just a form of posturing. We pose, and pose, and pose in front of mirrors, cameras, and each other. Are thieves posing as burglars posing as robbers posing as thieves? If we think about everything we do in terms of fulfilling some self-decided role, shoplifting is not about the clothes, it is not about the thrill... it is about identity. The modern youthful bohemian are posing in a variety of ways: the ironic tourist look, the 40s starlet sophisticate, the relentlessly worn-out 80s junkie, the trust-fund gutter-punk who steals for fun, a myriad of amorphously modern blends of the pop culture we constantly consume. Perhaps ours is the first generation with such an identity crisis: growing up in a world so ripe with consumerism that we do not know who to be, nor can we afford it.
art basel miami by Monica Merel
miami beach, florida
-- The first week of December consisted of monstrous, intriguing and exceedingly colorful people and art all around Miami. Art Basel is one of the most awaited events for the art crowd. This is an event that is in the sixth consecutive year and has been staged at the Miami Beach Convention Center. It is the sister to Switzerland’s Art Basel, its origin. If were rattling your brain wondering the meaning of what a Basel is, it is actually the city in Switzerland in which the original convention is held. It all began in 2002, when the most populated regions of Miami shut down and devoted themselves to a few warm days in December. The events that take place are all spread among Miami neighbors of Wynwood and the Miami Design District. Contributing areas include Bicentennial Park and Bayfront Park. The largest portion of the exhibit is held in South Beach with free, public exhibits along the beach and park. Music from around the world comes to perform every night. In 2008 M.I.A. took the stage in the MIA. But of course, the most private and popular event is the held in the Convention Center, which holds all types of art forms from every region of the world. Breath taking pieces fill the various sectors of the new layout while the aroma of acrylic and champagne fill the air. Art Basal is inarguably the United States largest gallery. It exhibits the most famous art from around the
world. You might recall some of the names, such as Pablo Picasso and Man Ray, but it goes way beyond, as the art showcased includes contemporary works. Some of the artists are traditional and keep their work to the typical canvas and oil, but at Art Basal, the kookier the art form, the more attractive the exhibit. Some were simply, alluring and left one wondering “How could they…? Why would they…?” For many, like myself, were left speechless. It is the place to go in the most eccentric piece you have in your wardrobe. The art enthusiast could go looking like a piece of work. When you look over the exhibit the people crowd the field of vision. This year’s Art Basel came with a new layout to fit the diverse mass it was attracting. It was divided into multiple mini sections to feed the fill of fellow art gazers. Piggybacking the main event include the Art Supernova, which has the feel of a fair-within-a-fair. It is a shared office space that is accompanied by a sales office of over twenty galleries. The Art Kabinett is the independent artist exhibition presented in separate booths within the fair. The Art Nova was the main attraction and centerpiece of the whole exhibit. The eclectic pieces surrounding the space of the place fills the void of anyone who has been deprived from the world of art a chance to explore their creative side. You will leave feeling a little more art-savvy.
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dark matter by Cammie Norsworthy
I. If I were to implode, I'd collapse into my own dense matter. Too careful, I wouldn't pull the others from their orbits. I'd let them spin while I turned molten and purple, then blackened into a glowing pool. II. I would explode. My skin would flake, break like glass, tiny, glimmering projectiles would fall and kiss each and every star. Every fragment would hit with a wind-chime's sound. Space would echo with my music. III. Sedated and solitary, I contemplate the smashing of my ceiling. The worth of watching the stars fall asleep as I drift off alone seems greater than any man-made drywall. I spill my own discordant melody, singing my body unconscious. I shut my eyes, plead to the stars, but they're humming their own song.
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King of the Manifestos
Modeled by Fraser Graham Photographed by Kaite Silvester
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J. ALEXANDER INK Magazine debuts Earl Grey featuring pieces by J. Alexander photographed by Mary Robinson | modeled by Cammie Norsworthy & Laura Sack | jewelry by J. Alexander
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Purchase pieces featured in this shoot at www.earlgrey.tk
A PASTEL ROMANCE
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A PREVIEW OF ANN YEE’S SPRING COLLECTION
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SEE ANN YEE'S FULL COLLECTION AT ANNYEECOLLECTION.COM PHOTOGRAPHED BY JOHN TROXEL MODELED BY COURTNEY ALEXIS STYLED BY ANN YEE JEWELRY BY PIPERTREE LEATHER 35 | winter 2010
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Modern looks with vintage pieces
PHOTOGRAPHED BY MAURICE SAMPSON | STYLED BY LIZ CHERKASOVA
popcultureafternoon.blogspot.com
DIFFERENT
ANNA C, INK MAGAZIN
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T STROKES
NE’S IT GIRL, TALKS ART interviewed & photographed by Joy Newell
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Tell us about your art. I’ve been drawing since I was young, I never drew stick figures, I always made little boxes for their bodies and their heads. My favorite medium to work with is watercolor by far. I like to make things look older but natural, real, but not too neat, I guess I just don’t like when things look perfect. How do you use a typical material to your advantage? I like to use a little bit of everything, charcoal, cardboard…fire..to burn the edges of some of my work. I even used some dead flowers once. If you could show your art or venue in the world, where would you show it? I don’t care where my art ends up;
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I just want people to have a reaction to it, to feel connected in some way or another. Who would your dream collaboration be with and why? Kris Lewis, he works with oil paints most of the time and acrylic. I love his distorted proportions Where is your art taking you? I don’t know. It depends what day it is. Where does your art take other people? When people look at my work I just want to make them think. I like confronting social and political issues through my work but in a subtle way. Hopefully it takes them to where they need to be.
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Nati
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ive Instinct
HN TROXEL // STYLED BY TORI MCBRIDE // MODELED BY DANIELLE SHUE 57 | winter 2010
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BLACK FEATHER & STUDS SHOULDERED MINI-DRESS BY TORI MCBRIDE // JEWELRY BY J.ALEXANDER
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SHOULDER SPATS AND ELEPHANT SHORTS BY PEEPS // SHOES BY VIA SPIGA
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DRESS BY ANN YEE // SHOES BY VIA SPIGA
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BLACK SEQUINED SHOULDER CHIFFON DRESS
FRINGE SKIRT BY PEEPS 67 | winter 2010
JEWELRY BY PIPERTREE LEATHER // ROPE LEGGINGS BY PEEPS
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ROPE DRESS BY PEEPS // ROPE BRACELET BY J. ALEXANDER
JEWELRY BY PIPERTREE LEATHER // GOWN BY TORI MCBRIDE 71 | winter 2010
Autumn’s Innocence photographed by Crista Leonard | styled by the Hahn Sisters | modeled by Alex Hahn, Rebecca Hahn & Catlin Hahn
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www.cristaleonard.com
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looking inside out s, uk on street fashion in leed by Tracy Mathewson
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edgy. stylish. young.
Being a town with 6 separate universities and colleges within a 15 mile radius, Leeds is home to a multiplicity of bustling minds from engineers to budding artists and musicians; each with a dress sense of unique inspiration: the perfect city catwalk. I took a walk about Leeds one blustery afternoon expecting almost to find the spur of some mounting trend—but after interviewing 15 fashionable individuals I came to the realization that the focus in street fashion has actually been pulled from the Worn to the Wearer. Where youths were once defined by their collective rebellion against the current or previous trends, we seem to be drawn backwards in our search for “new” styles. Instead of being influenced by a turbulent political or musical scene, our generation was born into a sense of complacency—an ambivalence for a world whose most pressing issues are short-term “human interest” pieces that still don’t seem to penetrate. As a whole, it appears that we still haven’t found that something capable of changing the way we view our present culture. For the time we are content with being pulled into vintage shops. We are content with picking and choosing what appeals to us from earlier decades and we are very content to assemble it according to our own tastes. So, in this era of pastiche where “new” styles are merely plucked from the past and reused or recycled, style here on the streets lies in our interpretation of the cultural ebb and flow as it is filtered through our character. Fashion is no longer a conquest for commodity but a venue for which to express out very diverse personalities—the one something that does seem to move us nowadays. Today we take pleasure in our
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differences; we are intrigued by each other’s influences and are especially impressed by one another’s ability to speak of ourselves through the way we dress. We can say what we listen to, what we like and who we watch: Kerry Griffiths shows her Sex Pistols shirt while Hollie Jones sports the latest celebrity looks. Joe dresses for comfort and utility, and Francis makes sure he can always skateboard. I imagined runways made of pavement as I walked through Leeds, but what was on display was essentially a visual representation of countless personalities—and for anything that wasn’t fabric-deep, I asked some questions about a few things I thought the clothes couldn’t say.
1) natalie If you could change your name, what would it be? Florence What are you doing today? Clothes shopping, when I should really have my nose buried in law books! Occupation: Student, studying law at the University of Leeds A goal, near or far: To qualify as a lawyer What are you wearing today? Dogtooth boyfriend blazer, leggings, studded belt, tan leather satchel and boots. What inspires your style? Mostly current and vintage/retro inspired fashion, such as 40’s style floral prints Where is your favorite place to be? South Cornwall or Paris because it’s so interesting. Favorite colour? Emerald green What music are you into most at the moment? Electro, Minimal Tech, Dub-step, Drum and bass Where do you shop for clothing? Mainly high street stores. I love Topshop and Urban
Outfitters! What’s your favorite quote? Pretty much anything from “The Mighty Boosh” Is the glass half full or half empty? Half Full What’s your favorite accessory? A long pendant or a vintage brooch What do you like? Music, fashion, theatre, cups of tea, clubbing, CSI, comedy, and reading. What would you do with £100? Do some more shopping! Tartan or Checkers? Tartan. Favorite Dream: My parents to buy me a horse…I’m still dreaming! 3 Words to describe you: Curly, Friendly, Amusing. Favorite Christmas present? The ones that are unexpected! Politics? Conservative Anything new in your wardrobe? A lace black dress and a black leather biker jacket. Your favorite word/phrase: “pootle” What do you think your style says to other people? What can I tell just by looking at you? An eclectic mix: That I have curly hair, that’s usually what people notice about me! I’d like to think that I have an on-trend look which is made a little bit different by mixing styles and adding unusual accessories. Where is fashion going next? Hopefully not towards a 90’s revival—hideous! Tell me anything: I can’t wait for my trip to NY this Christmas! 2) hollie If you could change your name, what would it be? Mildred What are you doing today? Shopping Occupation: Student A goal, near or far: Graduating What are you wearing today? Clothes! What inspires your style? Celebs. Where is your favorite place to be? My bed
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Favorite colour? Purple What music are you into most at the moment? Electro. Where do you shop for clothing? High street shops Is the glass half full or half empty? Half Full What’s your favorite accessory? Hat What do you like? Dancing What would you do with £100? Fake tan!!! Tartan or Checkers? Checkers Favorite Dream: Sex Dream 3 Words to describe you: Outspoken, Fun, Tall Favorite Christmas present? Tan Anything new in your wardrobe? Jeans (cacio wa sh) What do you think your style says to other people? What can I tell just by looking at you? “Mediocre.” Tell me anything: I’m going to Paris! Where is fashion going next? I have no idea. 3) jamie tyler What are you doing today? Being Hung over. Occupation: Student A goal, near or far: pass University. What are you wearing today? Fred Perry Jacket, Levi’s, a vintage tee, a cardigan and Van’s shoes What inspires your style? Friends Favorite colour? Black What music are you into most at the moment? 90’s Emo Where do you shop for clothing? Everywhere. What’s your favorite quote? “Fuck my life” –me Is the glass half full or half empty? Full! What’s your favorite accessory? Nike Shoes What would you do with £100? Buy a jacket. Tartan or Checkers? Check! Politics? Liberal Anything new in your wardrobe? An Urban Outfitters Shirt Where is fashion going next? I don’t know. What do you think your style says to other people? What can I tell just by looking at you? “I’m cool”
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4) james hudson What are you doing today? Feeling terrible Occupation: Student A goal, near or far: Professional author What are you wearing today? Jeans, trainers and a t-shirt Favorite colour? Green What music are you into most at the moment? Four Tet Tartan or Checkers? Checkers Politics? Liberal Anything new in your wardrobe? Jacket Your favorite word/phrase: “superfluous” What’s your favorite accessory? A smile 5) alex thompson If you could change your name, what would it be? Elliott so my initials would be E.T. What are you doing today? Being hungover. Occupation: Student What are you wearing today? Tan brogues, jeans, vintage jumper Favorite colour? Purple What music are you into most at the moment? Lightning Bolt, Daedelus, The Mac Shi, The Microphones Where do you shop for clothing? Mostly online and from vintage shops. What’s your favorite quote? “I’d rather have both” Is the glass half full or half empty? Half Empty Tartan or Checkers? Checkers Favorite Dream: I was in a long supermarket aisle with and endless amount of giant knives and Mr. T had three arms and told me to “Stop spinning the knives too.” 6) josh johnson Occupation: Unemployed. Where is your favorite place to be? The Pub or in the studio What music are you into most at the moment? Mika
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Miko What would you do with £100? Develop some film. Tartan or Checkers? Tartan Politics? The Green Party Where is fashion going next? Home 7) ian jackson What are you doing today? Fine Art Symposium Occupation: Art Student A goal, near or far: Travel What are you wearing today? Trousers, a coat and leather shoes Where is your favorite place to be? With friends. Where do you shop for clothing? Vintage clothing shops. Is the glass half full or half empty? Full What would you do with £100? Travel/see friends. Tartan or Checkers? Checkers Anything new in your wardrobe? A jacket and a paisley tie. Your favorite word/phrase: “mildly moist” What’s your favorite quote? “It’s been emotional.” 8) francis lloyd-jones What are you doing today? Fine Art Symposium Occupation: Student What are you wearing today? A coat, it’s cold. What inspires your style? Skateboarding Where is your favorite place to be? Coonabarabran, Australia: Ultimate relaxation Where do you shop for clothing? Anywhere Is the glass half full or half empty? Half full, of course. What do you like? Anything that interests me Tartan or Checkers? Checkers Politics? Green Party 9) elinor maud cantrill What are you doing today? Going to lectures Occupation: unemployed
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A goal, near or far: To get into a good art college. What are you wearing today? Tartan trousers, a t-shirt, a big Cardi and a dog-tooth grey coat and tassley-boots. Favorite colour? Yellow Where do you shop for clothing? Everywhere Is the glass half full or half empty? Half full!!!! What’s your favorite accessory? Big Earrings What would you do with £100? Tartan or Checkers? Tartan Anything new in your wardrobe? A red Moschino dress Where is fashion going next? Leeds—In PVC What inspires your style? The great outdoors 10) benjamin edwin slinger If you could change your name, what would it be? Name. What are you doing today? Listening to a lecture, which unfortunately is all day. Occupation: Cookie Baker A goal, near or far: Going to University in London What are you wearing today? Barbour Quilted Jacket, a flannel shirt, suit trousers and Vans. What inspires your style? Prince Favorite colour? Turquoise What music are you into most at the moment? Piano-based Jazz Where do you shop for clothing? Vintage shops What’s your favorite quote? “I am sick of these mother fucking snakes on this mother fucking plane!” Tartan or Checkers? Tartan Your favorite word/phrase: “Penguin” Where is fashion going next? Tweed-clad gentlemen. Tell me anything: I love you. Yes, you. 11) matthew johnson If you could change your name, what would it be? I wouldn’t
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What are you doing today? Art Symposium Occupation: Kitchen Porter What are you wearing today? Suit trousers, a white shirt, a coat and Chelsea boots. What inspires your style? 60’s Culture Favorite colour: All of them. What is your favorite place to be? Anywhere, everywhere What music are you into most at the moment? 60’s underground and psych beat. Where do you shop for clothing? Vintage and charity shops What’s your favorite quote? Too many to choose from! Is the glass half full or half empty? Either What’s your favorite accessory? I have a nice belt. What do you like? Life-Living-Experiencing. What would you do with £100? Give it to my brother. Tartan or Checkers? There’s a place for both. Favorite Dream: a peaceful place. 3 words to describe you: Me, Him, That. Politics? Yes, it’s there. Anything new in your wardrobe? A velvet suit. Your favorite word/phrase: Don What do you think your style says to other people? What can I tell just by looking at you? Pretentiousness. (Not what I was going for.) Where is fashion going next? Wherever music goes. Tell me anything. 1+1=2, so if you’re one, find one. 12) joe hancock If you could change your name, what would it be? Josephine What are you doing today? Symposium of different practitioners from Art colleges in the UK Occupation: Student/Handyman A goal, near or far: to be a self-supported art practitioner What are you wearing today? Carhartt Jeans, black long-sleeve tee shirt, Brooklyn Indus-
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tries Hoody, Timberland Boots What inspires your style? Practicality, utility, and on a dull day I wear as much colour as possible. Where is your favorite place to be? Spurn Point (Humberside, UK), the most transcendental/transformative place I know. Favorite colour? Orange What music are you into most at the moment? Doom, Math Rock, Minimal Techno, Alternative-Folk, Modern Classical Where do you shop for clothing? Wherever I see the right things. What’s your favorite quote? “I was going to hesitate” –Kaz McKnight, 2009 Is the glass half full or half empty? Yes. What’s your favorite accessory? Swiss Army knife. What do you like? Systems, process, chaos, sincerity, depth, Lego and whiskey. What would you do with £100? Take myself out to dinner Tartan or Checkers? Checks Favorite Dream: About a baby pig which ate broken glass during the Spanish Civil war. 3 Words to describe you: Practical, Imaginative, Sensitive Favorite Christmas present? Lego Politics? Left Left Left Left Left Left. Anything new in your wardrobe? Carhartts Your favorite word/phrase: Concatenation What do you think your style says to other people? What can I tell just by looking at you? Hopefully no pretension—I am what I am (Also, my inspiration) Where is fashion going next? Same place it always has. Tell me anything: I’ve spent ten minutes, illegally, in China. 13) amy prendergast If you could change your name, what would it be? Lily What are you doing today? Working
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Occupation: student A goal, near or far: To be a curator What are you wearing today? Jeans and a coat. What inspires your style? The 60’s Where is your favorite place to be? Travelling—I want to see everything. Favorite colour? Grey What music are you into most at the moment? Reggae Where do you shop for clothing? Vintage anywhere What’s your favorite quote? “Kill 2 birds with 1 stone.” Is the glass half full or half empty? Half full What’s your favorite accessory? A ring What do you like? Art. What would you do with £100? Spend it. Tartan or Checkers? Tartan Favorite Christmas present? A dog. Your favorite word/phrase: “Dry” Tell me anything: It’s raining. 14) kerry griffiths What are you doing today? Essay on the efficacy of dramatherapy with offenders! Occupation: Student/Barmaid What are you wearing today? A Sex-Pistols top and a £5 skirt! Where do you shop for clothing? Ark, Topshop, H&M, on the High Street and I love vintage and Adidas sportswear What’s your favorite quote? ‘Only dull people are brilliant at breakfast’ – Oscar Wilde Is the glass half full or half empty? Half full. What’s your favorite accessory? Big earrings! What do you like? Real ale. And dancing. Tartan or Checkers? Tartan. Anything new in your wardrobe? A lovely soft scarf from Ark, and a big gold pocket watch necklace What do you think your style says to other people? What can I tell just by looking at you? “I am a weirdo,” I just got that one.
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Where is fashion going next? Back to the 80’s, hopefully. Minus the shoulder pads. 15) su If you could change your name, what would it be? No way! What are you doing today? Going to lectures. Occupation: Student A goal, near or far: To be a petroleum engineer What are you wearing today? Tights, boots and a wooly jumper. Favorite colour? Black, red, white and orange. Where do you shop for clothing? Not the high street Is the glass half full or half empty? Half full. What’s your favorite accessory? Shoes. What do you like? High heels. Tartan or Checkers? Both. Favorite Dream: To be an engineer after making my own fashion brand. Favorite Christmas present? Willy Boots What would you do with £100? Buy Burberry! 16) gimene If you could change your name, what would it be? I wouldn’t What are you doing today? Working. Occupation: Student A goal, near or far: go traveling. What are you wearing today? A coat and highwaisted trousers Favorite colour? Green What music are you into most at the moment? Reggae Where do you shop for clothing? Vintage anywhere. What’s your favorite quote? Carpe Diem Is the glass half full or half empty? Half full. What’s your favorite accessory? Hair clips Where is your favorite place to be? Barcelona 17) jennie spooner If you could change your name, what would it be?
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Anna What are you doing today? Uni lectures. Occupation: Student What are you wearing today? A big coat and a scarf. What inspires your style? High street stores and other students. Where is your favorite place to be? Copenhagen Favorite colour? Yellow What music are you into most at the moment? Electronica Where do you shop for clothing? H&M, Zara Is the glass half full or half empty? Half full. What’s your favorite accessory? A scarf. What do you like? Music. What would you do with £100? Buy clothes. Tartan or Checkers? Checkers. 3 Words to describe you: happy, fun, I don’t know. A goal, near or far: To be good at the Danish language. 18) jack fletcher If you could change your name, what would it be? I like my name, it was my grandfather’s name and I’ve been told he was a really great man. What are you doing today? I finally got to see my mum and dad today. I haven’t seen them in a long time, so that was sweet. A goal, near or far: too far. What are you wearing today? A hat and a jacket. What inspires your style? Comfort and warmth for this heinous weather. Favorite colour? Navy Blue What music are you into most at the moment? Postpunk, instrumental, hardcore, stoner metal; I can’t stop listening to Sleep’s Jerusalem. What would you do with £100? Invest in stock. Tartan or Checkers? Tartan. Where is fashion going next? The “I just made a cool million in stocks” Patrick Bateman look. What’s your favorite quote? “Whenever I’m sad, I stop being sad, and start being awesome.”
81 | winter 2010
glamophonic, a history by Liz Osban | modeled by Jaime Levick
like celine dion and all you can eat buffets, sequin is
yet another indulgence one took caution in before ever flaunting your admiration for it around. The brave from past decades marveled in elaborate yet obscure designs like Cher’s infamous Oscar outfit, Michael Jackson’s glove and even rapper Lil’ Kim’s lavender pasty at the VMA’s and yet although the design of sequin is very elegant, it can occasionally come off very tacky in main stream fashion. Which is why the general public has always been weary of the delicate fabric and it’s immediate attraction to the eye. Be that as it may, metallics, feathers and faux fur are being introduced again and in this family of intricate fabrics it was imminent for sequin to make its comeback. And while high fashion designers are the innovators (or resurrect-ers) of these trends, what’s more interesting is how these designs trickle their way into the majority of
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major retailers; sequin being one of the most versatile, fun and lovable fabrics, whether you ever realized it or not. Designers and retailers are getting more creative as the seasons pass and adding sequin pockets to basic t-shirts, sequin trims to skirts, sequin bows in hair and even sequin slip-on Converses. Even Max Azria and Miley Cyrus’ Wal-mart Fashion line donned tanks with sequin bows embellished onto affordable fashion for merely $10. Another thrilling aspect to sequin’s reappearance is the once pricey garment is retailers are making it somewhat affordable. If you aren’t able to afford Express’ $99 sequin leggings, Forever 21 offers the same design for $18. From glitz to casual, no longer will this shiny design only be associated with disco balls, dress’ or disco balls but maybe even that thick belt, shoe or beret.
CHLOE SCHEFFE PHOTOGRAPHY | CHLSCHEF@GMAIL.COM | FLICKR.COM/PHOTOS/CHLSCHEF
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