INK Magazine March 2011 // The Youth Issue

THE

YOUTH ISSUE INK HOMME PLUS, A PREVIEW OF THE NEW

I N K M a g a z i n e p re s e nt s

march

//

2 011

v o l u m e 11 i , i s s u e i

youth in revolt by chris wilocki, boy blue by daniel gurton, structure and support by john troxel featuring wesley nault, peeps turns a chirp into a roar, the walkmen, baĂ?kal amour magistral + more interviews, fashion, and photography

featuring

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STAFF Editor in Chief Founders Creative Director INK Homme Creative Director Photography Editor Fashion Editor Styling Editor Music Editor Film Department Head European Director

John Troxel Aaliyeh Astar, John Troxel, Mike Bailey-Gates Promise Newell Adam Gallagher Joy Newell Matt Feniger Victoria McBride Katie Espinoza Nicholas Naveda Rinaldi

Australian Ambassador

Oliver Forbes

Graphic Designer

Chloe Scheffe

Fashion Writers

Alexandria Mangrum, Carolynn Williams, Jacobe Varela, Lindsay Lee, Liz Osban, Molly Bright Hughes, Monica Merel, Promise Newell, Taylor Bryant, Tracy Mathewson

Music Writers

Andrew Jillson, Becca Wilde, Kellie Ferguson, Skyler Madsen

Photographers

Alicia Vega, Chloe Scheffe, Chrissie White, Christopher Wilocki, Mike Bailey-Gates

Illustrator

Chelsey Scheffe

Stylist

Hannah Stack

It Girl

Molly Bright Hughes

CONTRIBUTORS Photographers

Becky Xue-Ying, Ben Sasso, Charlotte Lin, Christopher Wilocki, Daniel Arnold, Daniel Gurton, David Lichterman, Emma Lauren, Ennis Chung, Grant Heinlein, Halldora & Bryan, Jenny Woods, Jon Cancelino, Magnus Blikeng, Matthew Burditt, Micaela Hoo, Naomi Nishi, Petra Ford, Phen Mas, Rachel Hanel, Sarah Jane, Simon Grossi, Stefan Heinrichs, Valeria Cherchi

Directors, Assistants Stylists

Hannah Stack, Nicole Hughes Alix Jiang, Alleeveda Thammavong, Cat Wright, Charlie Bland, Christina Dietze, Dana Hanegraaf, Jess Wu, Kerry Gibbons, Krista Sung (for THEY Representation), Leanne Trig, Mary Wayman, Olivia Anderton, Xza Louis

Hair & Makeup

Abantu, Abby Thomley Searles, Alison Cornely, Bree Teranishi, Christina Artrip, De Carr, Enid Seymore, Etzel Ecleston, Jenna Baltes, Jess Wu, Joey Oso, Julia Rose, Katrina Molson (for THEY Representation), Leibi Caria, Mary Guthrie, Melissa NicholsonMesser, Monica Gingold, Norman Golchehreh, Robert Starks, Ryan Burrel, Sabrina Guzman, Sienree, Stephanie Park, Tracy Upson, Vanessa Mills, Win Liu

Models

Adam @ Oxygen, Alyssa @ Factor Model Management (Covergirl), Amelia Payne, Anna Gray, Bria Condon @ Factor Model Management, Brianna Peeples @ Factor Model Management, Chloe Condon @ Factor Management, Christina Dietza, Christine Popovich @ Richards International Model Management, Elliott

photograph by emma lauren

Mackie, Etienne @ Oxygen, Fedja @ Chosen, Haley Welsh, James Cox @ AMCK London, James G @ AMCK London, Jana Broughton @ Trump, John Lozowski, Jordan Marthynus @ AMCK London, Kelsey @ Ford, Maria Lozowski, Mike Rose @ Photogenics, Molly Bright Hughes (It Girl), Natalie Tusznio @ Mode, Nikki Bohn, Ollie @ AMCK London, Paul @ Chosen, Robb @ Je Model, Ruby Park @ Factor, Ryan @ Oxygen, Sean Robinson @ No Ties, Theodora Austin, Vaslev @ Oxygen, Veronica @ Fenton Moon Media Artists

Chris de la Rosa, David Proctor

FEATURED CONTRIBUTORS Ben Sasso is a self-taught 22-year-old photographer who has spent the majority of his time in Florida and California, giving him an appreciation

Nicholas Naveda is a filmmaker, screenwriter

for everything from high humidity to mountains to and cinephile from the Los Angeles area. His great food and full beards. He hopes to grow old

primary interest is to seek out underseen,

in a house with character while listening to

independent films and promote various

folk singers with unusual voices.

filmmakers living in obscurity.

More // bensasso.com

More // twitter.com/nicholasjnaveda

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ben sasso, photographer

nicholas naveda, writer Matthew is a Vancouver-based fashion and feature photographer with his roots in fashion design and music. He has worked with a wide variety of artists and talent to build a book which (he hopes) instills emotion through voyeuristic documentation of character. Highly narrative yet somber, his work can be found in the books of some of the more promising Canadian models and designers.

More // matthewburditt.org

"HE HOPES TO GROW OLD IN A HOUSE WITH CHARACTER WHILE LISTENING TO FOLK SINGERS WITH UNUSUAL VOICES"

matthew burditt, photographer Naomi is a Brooklyn-based portrait photographer, originally from Los Angeles. She is graduating from the School of Visual Arts this Spring.

More // dripbook.com/naominishi

— Ben Sasso naomi nishi, photographer

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CONTENTS

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86 BOY BLUE Boyish dressing is always in vogue.

40 EVERYTHING IS NEW Light up the day in a cacophony of bold prints and juicy brights.

82 ICEBERG

70 YOUTH IN REVOLT

Crisp, delicate white garments pair

This month model Alyssa, signed with

perfectly with well-loved denim.

Factor Model Management (Chicago), covers our Youth Issue with Chicagobased band Viva.City.Dance!

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DEAR READERS, Walking into a loft in Chicago on the morning of INK's March

vibe, with striking—yet youthful—features. And so, the INK

covershoot, carrying bags of fabric, streamers, and party-poppers,

March covergirl was chosen.

you might think I felt a bit unprepared for the huge task (directing,

Now, back to present—the shoot and the balloons and the

DJ-ing, and more) at hand. But Styling Editor Victoria McBride

rest of the party supplies. Tori and I were heading into photog-

and I were, after many hours of preperation, ready to go!

rapher Chris Wilocki's loft, and we were confident the shoot

Before I tell the whole story, though, let me take you back

would go well. Having worked with Chris before, and having

to the beginning. In the still biting cold months preceding the

seen much of his stellar photography, we had nothing to worry

holidays, I met INK Stylist Hannah Stack at a Starbucks out in

about. And what do you know? From the hair to the makeup,

the suburbs of Chicago. She said she had a couple of musi-

the wardrobe to the bespoke jewelry, it was totally fun. Only

cians I had to meet, and that they would be perfect for The

the best for our monthly debut!

Youth Issue. I was intrigued to learn that they're only seniors

We channel the jovial vibe of our cover throughout the

in high school, and agreed (of course ) that we meet up! From

issue, featuring colors, cuts, and patterns that radiate youth-

our very first meeting I could see that Viva.City.Dance!'s Izzy

ful energy. It's about the mixing of funk and minimalism. Fun

is very committed to and passionate about his music. He had

is thrust back into fashion this month, and we want you in on

ideas, and a strong vision of what his band's image is and how

it all too!

to blend it well with ours. Immediately I knew they belonged on our cover. Izzy's brother Angel, who is also in the band,

Keep Creating,

joined him. We then visited Factor Model Management here in Chicago and told them about the issue's theme and concept, introduced them to Viva.City.Dance!, and explained what kind of covergirl we were looking for. I was ecstatic when I saw Alyssa's comp card land in my inbox. She has a sort of rocker

John Troxel // Editor in Chief

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FROM THE EDITOR

CONTENTS

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ARTICLES

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004 // Masthead

EDITORIALS

006 // Featured Contributors

018 // The New Balance

009 // Letter from the Editor

020 // Bronzed

012 // Editor's Picks

022 // The Lioness

014 // Staff Picks

036 // Orange Cosmo

017 // Stripes are the Hype

040 // Everything is New

019 // From Bedwear to Streetwear

050 // Leopard Lull

024 // Backstage at New York Fashion Week

054 // Retro Revival

026 // Peeps Turns a Chirp into a Roar

058 // Structure and Support

028 // What Dreams May Come

066 // Sunrise Sunrise

030 // Put a Little Spring in Your Step

070 // Youth in Revolt

032 // Orphism Art Finds a Home in Fashion

082 // Iceberg

034 // Freedom of Expression

086 // Boy Blue

102 // The Walkmen

092 // Fabric Illusion

106 // Ba誰kal Amour Magistral 108 // Holiday Shores 110 // Sun Airway 113 // The Ones That Got Away 166 // Shop INK

ON THE COVER Photography by Chris Wilocki Modeled by Alyssa @ Factor Model Managment, with Angel and Izzy of Viva.City.Dance!

MOTHHOUSE. ETSY.COM inkm agonline.com

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By John Troxel

EDITOR'S PICKS necklace by moorea seal

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kristina @ factor wearing moorea seal

natural blue keratin

taylor stevens in pelican avenue

emily wright in leopard dress by john troxel

maria lozowski // me // john lozowski at shoot in philadelphia

frye engineer boots a classic white calvin klein tee

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wearing hand-dyed v-neck

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behind the scenes, paul & fedja @ chosen

hannah stack in marc by march jacobs for our new project. go to www.troxel.tk for more information

kristina @ factor wearing moorea seal

izzy and angel of viva. city.dance!, and ink stylist hannah at the youth issue covershoot in chicago

STAFF PICKS I can't get this stunning leather Proenza Schouler wallet out of my head. Crafted in This season, red is a thing of the past. Roll

Italy, bearing the signature front straps of

in the orange hues! With trends such as

the full-size PS1, and available in thirteen

Boho, Mod, and schoolboy-inspired Prep

colors (including "Smoke," above) this

resurfacing, pops of neon and burnt orange

beauty can be yours for only $165. That is,

add a refreshing tang to the collections. Marc

when design duo Jack McCollough and Laz-

Jacobs, Oscar de la Renta, Carolina Herrera,

aro Hernandez restock it (exclusively at pro-

and Prada all showcased the wonderfully

enzaschouler.com). Follow Proenza Schouler

vibrant color on their runways—they paved

on Facebook or Twitter for updates.

the way for a bold and outgoing Spring. And

— CHLOE SCHEFFE // Graphic Designer

collections that didn't include orange fabrics inkm agonline.com

incorporated the color via makeup and styling. Orange you happy to hear it? I know I am.

— ADAM GALLAGHER // Creative Director

The Drums have been the sublime remedy to any of my exigent days. This spunky

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quartet are a flashback to 80's surf pop and it's because of their originality that they instantly usher in smiles. Let's call them

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the cure to the common cold.

— KATIE ESPINOZA // Music Director

Artist Nick van Woert has a solo show coming up at New York's Yvon Lambert gallery. His mixed media manipulation of clas-

Only five years running and Little White

sic statues is compelling. I recently became

Lies has hit the mark with every issue. This

interested in the different perspectives on

magazine is stellar, covering most things

anatomy in both art and fashion, and van

film. With a brilliant design and illustra-

Woert truly has an original point of view.

tion staff, a healthy dose of cheekiness, and

The recent Thierry Mugler men's fashion

a miniscule price for all that, there's not

show and advertisements have been a cata-

much more your heart could desire. See it

lyst in thinking more about this influence.

all at www.littlewhitelies.co.uk.

— MATT FENIGER // Fashion Editor

— CHELSEY SCHEFFE // Staff Illustrator

Eleri Ward and her fantastic voice have captured my attention not only due to the fact that she is a junior in high school, but also because she writes almost all of the songs that she posts. I'm sure we'll see more of this young signer-songwriter soon! Find Eleri on YouTube at www.youtube.com/ user/xAimlessArtistx.

— JOHN TROXEL // Editor in Chief

runway images courtesy of style.com, wallet image courtesy of proenzaschouler.com, magazine cover courtesy of little white lies, eleri ward photographed by john troxel wearing ann yee, album art courtesy of the drums, sculpture image courtesy of nick van woert.

By INK Editors

By INK Editors

STAFF PICKS I took the chance to interview London-based photographer Laura Olivia Baker.

JOHN TROXEL: When and how did you start taking photographs?

LAURA OLIVIA BAKER: I saw a film called Morvern Callar a few years ago, and after something that was equally blunt, raw, dreamy and beautiful.

TROXEL: There's a certain spontaneity about your work. How to find that you get such candid captures?

BAKER: I only ever work with film and I inkm agonline.com

always use a point and shoot camera that I got off eBay for like £2 or something. I guess that by keeping things simple my captures feel more natural. Even if I plan a photoshoot I always keep things simple by using natural light and never having the models wear any makeup.

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TROXEL: Where do you hope to do with photography in the future?

BAKER: I like taking pictures and then

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making short films that stem from those photographs... I guess I'd love to make a proper film one day.

TROXEL: What is it that keeps you making photographs?

BAKER: Days filled with moments of fleeting beauty, exploring the world, and beautiful sunlight.

TROXEL: Where can we see more of you?

BAKER: lauraoliviabaker.com and vimeo. com/lauraoliviabaker.

— JOHN TROXEL // Editor in Chief

Mary Katrantzou's SS11 show was inspiring to say the least. The house interior prints in her collection were taken right out of Architectural Digest and World of Interiors, according to Style.com. Australian designer Karla Spetic's SS11 followed in a similar vein featuring photographic patterns of unique landscapes. I find these graphics so intriguing and definitely foresee a rise and experimentation with these types of prints.

— MATT FENIGER // Fashion Editor

top photographs courtesy of laura olivia baker, bottom photographs courtesy of mary katrantzou

watching it I remember wanting to create

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ON THE RUNWAY, A SINGLE LINE OF MODELS WAS INTERTWINED WITH HORIZONTAL, ZIGZAG, AND VERTICAL LINES

By Monica Merel // Photography John Troxel // Model John Lozowski

STRIPES ARE THE HYPE Sailor stripes have capsized and this spring—bold, bright and

bottom. Despite common myth, it will not give the illusion of

playful stripes are on board. It's about using stripes creatively

thick thighs.

in almost all categories: dresses, skirts and tops. For design-

Designer Junya Watanabe took a slightly different approach

ers like Prada bold and colorful stripes are moving in all kinds

with stripes. On the runway, a single line of models was inter-

of directions and in a variety of shades and widths, giving an

twined with horizontal, zigzag, and vertical lines. Mixed and

almost ‘70s aesthetic. Their palette consists of vibrant shades

meshed against one another, they created a wave-like move-

of red, hot pink, orange, and purple. The colors feel playful but

ment cross the runway. Illusionary stripes create a unique

the outfits look urban, which translates as a real head-turner.

look and will definitely make you stand out amongst all the

Flirty stripes are where youthfulness meets experimental.

Marc by Marc Jacobs and Jean Paul Gaultier exemplify the bright

bright this season.

Stripes went from jailbird to naval, to a bright and bold

striped-chic look. Their collections show that with the prop-

palette. They've finally broken free. You've earned your stripes,

erly done stripe any look can be put together. The way to

so wear ‘em!

achieve this is to make sure you keep in mind the golden rules of stripe selection. Keep it figure friendly. Stripes work best when they are fitted on top with a looser horizontal striped

Monica is a writer and art enthusiast based in Miami, FL.

Photography Ben Sasso // Hair Sabrina Guzman // Makeup Tracey Upson // Model Haley Welsh

THE NEW BALANCE

FOR A SWEETER DRAMA, MIX A MURMUR OF PASTEL WITH UTILITARIAN BOTTOMS

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By Stephanie Leke //

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FROM BEDWEAR TO STREETWEAR

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PAJAMA DRESSING HAS TAKEN THE RUNWAYS AND WALKWAYS BY STORM Most modern-day college students are guilty of doing the unthink-

ing this one simple item, the looks are completely transformed

able… wearing their pajamas beyond the confines of their dorm rooms

from nightwear into everyday wear. Add a basic top and an

and sporting them not only to classes, but social gatherings. What

unbuttoned, fitted blazer or trench and the look is complete.

may seem as a major fashion faux pas, however, has been

For those who are unwilling to part with prints like those

given a total revamp. Case in point—many of the women's

found in Max Osterweis and Erin Beatty’s collection for

Spring 2011 collections.

SUNO, go for patterns that aren’t too overwhelming and be

Designers including Alexander Wang, Francisco Costa, and

sure to mix and match shades and textures. Subtlety will

Karen Walker created looks reminiscent of sleepwear. Howev-

take a back seat resulting in looks that are bold, colorful, and

er, instead of plastering images of cute animals or superheroes

vibrant while feeling light and airy—with the warm weather

everywhere, they chose to use subtler colors and prints as well

approaching, it is the perfect combatant against those rising

as lighter, airier fabrics. Fusing them with streamlined cuts

temperatures during the transition from Spring to Summer.

and textures allows these looks to be worn both indoors and out, while easily being combined with wardrobe staples.

A prime example is prominent throughout the Michael Kors

As harem pants continue to solidify their place in the fashion world, pajama dressing serves as the perfect compliment in a lean towards more comfortable daywear. Who wouldn’t

collection. Utilizing more neutral tones, his looks capitalize on

enjoy spending their waking hours enjoying the same plea-

the idea of sleepwear as daywear.

sures felt while curled up in bed wearing a comfy set of PJs?

One would expect this to be somewhat of a difficult task,

Sounds like quite the dream… and an even better reality.

but the key elements to making this a wearable look are accessories and keeping things minimal. Taking a cue from Mr. Kors, this would include the addition of a belt. By incorporat-

Stephanie Leke is a writer.

this page, right: foundation makeup forever high definition cheeks mac luna cream color base bronzer nars bronzing powder in laguna brow anastasia perfect brow pencil in medium ash lashes mac lashes #36 lips nars multiple tint in turks & caicos that page: foundation makeup forever high definition cheeks mac luna cream color base bronzer nars bronzing powder in laguna eyeliner givenchy eye pencil in white brow anastasia perfect brow pencil in medium ash lips mac lipstick in snob

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY SARAH JANE. HAIR BY JULIA ROSE. MAKEUP BY ETZEL ECLESTON. MODELED BY JANA BROUGHTON @ TRUMP MODEL MANAGEMENT

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BRONZED BOLD PASTELS WORK THEIR MAGIC ON A CANVAS OF SUN-KISSED SKIN.

THE LIONESS PHOTOGRAPHY BY JENNY WOODS. HAIR AND MAKEUP BY ABBY THOMLEY SEARLES. MODELED

BY NIKKI BOHN

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4 2

5

3

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1

By Matt Feniger // Photography Matt Feniger

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BACKSTAGE AT NEW YORK FASHION WEEK NOMIA1

CFDA4 5 6

RAD HOURANI 10

Yara Flinn has to be one of the nicest (and most

This year during New York Fashion Week,

Rad Hourani is known for a dark color palette

beautiful!) designers I have ever met. This

Vogue organized a runway show with all the

and gothic-chic aesthetic; this season was no

season she was inspired by authentic

designers who have ever been nominated for a

different. Instead of succumbing to the

samurai costume, loosely referencing their

CFDA award. Pieces from Althuzarra, Michael

latest trends, Hourani sticks to what he

uniform through paneling and layering. I

Bastian, Marchesa, Pamela Love and Proenza

does best. A grey and black color scheme,

checked-in the guests who arrived for the

Schouler grazed the runway at Lincoln Cen-

mix of loose and tight silhouettes, and

presentation and as they left they could

ter. Backstage Senior Marketing Editor Mer-

asymmetrical lines comprised the Fall

not help but stop and mention their love

edith Burke helped editor Lawren Howell

2011 collection. Androgyny seems to be a

for the clothes. I could not take my eyes off

(head of the show) dress the models while

consistent theme throughout his designs

the shade of green she used throughout her

Andre Leon Tally, show speaker, watched

as both the male and female models wore

collection. Big things to come from Nomia!

the performance on screen. Although it

the same shoes, not to mention that most

wasn't a collection, since the looks were

pieces can be worn by both sexes.

all from different designers, the show was quite beautiful.

7

8 10

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6

FRANK TELL 7 8 9

BIJULES 2 3

What an absolutely incredible collection! The

For the Fall 2011 season, jewelry designer Jules

presentation opened with a short film of

Kim was inspired by the female genitalia. Jules

a girl with a geisha-like face wandering

explained that she loves to mix street and

around what seemed to be an Alaskan

high fashion. For her presentation she

landscape. There was only a bit of life with

used underground ultimate fighters (see

the green from surrounding trees peaking

Fight Club) to carry the trays of jewelry.

out of the snow as the girl, with her emo-

Pearls and diamonds adorned the uniquely

tionless painted white face, walks slowly in

shaped silver and gold earrings, rings and

a piece from the FW11 collection. I assisted

necklaces. Such exquisite pieces!

at Frank Tell's show two years ago and what an evolution since then! His use of yarn has always been interesting but mixing it

Matt Feniger is a fashion writer, editor and

with leather, lace, and fur this season cre-

creator from New York City.

ated such great texture contrasts.

By Matt Feniger // Photography Naomi Nishi

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PEEPS TURNS A CHIRP INTO A ROAR

on the cover page 26

I walk into Amelia Lindquist’s Brooklyn apartment where she is

12, Amelia began sewing her own clothes, cute girly dresses

cooking a cardamom cake in between shooting the Spring lookbook

that her friends envied. After taking a web design class she

for Peeps, her clothing brand. I sit at the kitchen table where the

finally decided to update her website and it slowly developed

jewelry is laid out for the shoot—her own turquoise and gold

into what Peeps is today.

necklaces dangle off the side while she points out certain

Amelia is currently a senior at the Parsons School of Design

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pieces an ex-boyfriend made. Amelia licks the spoon she is

and is working on her senior thesis—a collection completely

using to mix the cake batter and starts adding ingredients

embroidered in Scandinavian sweater patterns. An experience

as she sees fit. “Wait, vanilla extract isn’t on the recipe? I’ve

that motivated her as a designer was her internship two

been using it every time I make it!” she laughs. From creating

years ago at Jeremy Scott. “I got the position because of my

her own cake recipe to using her ex-boyfriend’s jewelry in the

website and because I knew how to sew. I was the youngest

lookbook, every choice Amelia makes seems to be personal,

one there, I was 19 and everyone else was 26,” Amelia said.

sewing herself into the seams. “When I make collections I

“That internship really got me going even more. Jeremy is the

think about things I would wear,” she explains. “My personal

most inspiring person; he’s so sweet and so fun.” In the fall of

style and Peeps collide, but I do tone it down a bit because I

2008, Amelia traveled with Scott to assist him at Paris Fashion

have to be practical with production costs.”

Week. Amelia is not attracted to specific designers, but rather

In the winter of 2008, Peeps started receiving recognition

to their different strengths. She finds Givenchy’s proportions

when it was featured on the Teen Vogue website and then

incredible and Alexander Wang’s ability to do details amazing.

trickled down into the blogosphere. “Susie Bubble wrote

“I mostly like independent brands,” she said. “There’s a

about me that Spring, which really got me a lot of customers,”

Brooklyn-based brand called Bodkin who has these weird

Amelia said. “I started making consistent collections, but

somewhat architectural silhouettes that are easy to wear.

because I started having too many orders, I couldn’t sew it all

They also focus on sustainability in fashion, which I think is

myself anymore.” However, this recognition was not instant,

really important.”

taking quite some time for Peeps to fully hatch.

Amelia’s interest in fashion began when she was just a

This is what she pays attention to when designing Peeps.

For her, fabric choice and details are what make a garment

chick. “When I was in third grade, I was really small and

and the spring collection has plenty of this. The line consists

could never fit into the clothes I wanted. I used to draw these

of looser dresses, skirts and blouses in rusty browns, beiges

horrible crop-top skirt dresses, sort of like the young sister’s

and blacks. With surprising cut outs, leather fringe and golden

prom dress in 10 Things I Hate About You,” she said. “That kind

clasped drawstrings, the details are what take the garments

of thing was amazing to me.” Her stepfather then bought her

to the next level. Peeps is very accessible with pieces people

the domain name peeps.org, her nickname at the time. At age

can style in their own unique way. The collection was inspired

can just throw on, because last summer I was in New York and you can’t wear anything else,” she explained. However, the main inspiration was New Mexico. “My uncle has a

page 27

m a rch 2011

Mexican summer. “I was motivated to make dresses that you

on the cover

by one season in two locales—the New York City and the New

summers,” she said. “I’m obsessed with that whole style. It is all very Georgia O’ Keefe.” She reflects for a second and laughs.

“I think even if I didn’t visit there I’d still be obsessed with it.”

We finish our interview over a slice of her cardamom cake (which is quite amazing). The cake looks minimalist and simple, but the hint of vanilla and almond make it really delicious. Similarly, it is in the details of every Peeps piece that makes them so appetizing. With graduation soon approaching, I asked Amelia what is next for her. She responds, “I’m interested in textiles and texture and really executing collections so that’s what I’m going to play into. Peeps will always exist but I’m excited to start something else on the side.”

Matt Feniger is a fashion writer, editor and creator from New York City.

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vacation home in New Mexico and I grew up there during the

By Promise Newell // Photography Joy Newell

WHAT DREAMS MAY COME MEET INK HOMME'S NEW CREATIVE DIRECTOR, INTERNET IT BOY ADAM GALLAGHER

Rare, elusive, and exceedingly cunning when it comes to the art of personal flair, Adam Gallagher is the quixotic type of character you wish you could see on the streets every day. With a cult following boasting of more than 12,000 fans, it is no mystery how this fetching 19-year-old Pasadenian has climbed the ranks of lookbook.nu, to hold the coveted “Leader—All Time, Guys” spot on the online fashion blogger mecca. inkm agonline.com

In an age where posting quirky, conceptualized photographs on the web can grant instant access to free goods, front row tickets to the hottest fashion shows, and even stipends for product endorsement, Adam’s tendency to be slightly above the fray has certainly served him well—as he emerges a newfound style icon, he only further enhances his name brand.

In our recent interview, Adam discusses his visually ec-

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centric attire, analyses his marketing tactics, and strategizes future business plans.

PROMISE NEWELL: How did you find out and get involved in

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contributing to Lookbook?

ADAM GALLAGHER: I found out about Lookbook in 2009, when one of my friends turned me on to it. At first I was really skeptical—I didn’t even have a camera! But once I found out what it was, I was sold. It was really exclusive when it first came out, and you had to be invited to contribute, so I remembered waiting for like three weeks, and finally I got the invitation and started posting. It wasn’t until 2010 that I received any sort of reputation. Lookbook was really intriguing and intimidating because there were so many talented people all in the same place, and I knew I wanted to be one of them.

NEWELL: Your look is obviously very diverse, and unconventional—how do you feel most people view your outfit choices?

GALLAGHER: There are always going to be people who frown upon you, and I do get a lot of that. There’s constant hate in this society. Not everyone is going to understand how I dress, and why I do it. It’s about doing things for yourself, and ultimately, you have to live for yourself. The biggest thing people get on me for is why I do so many looks—"Why do you dress really boyish one day, and then really ethereal and feminine the next?" My answer to them is that you only live once. You’ve got to be open to a lot of different options in life.

NEWELL: Let’s talk about some of your looks. What is your favorite look that you have pulled off so far?

GALLAGHER: I don’t know! Everyone asks me that… I like them all for different reasons. But, recently I did a bohemian look with a lot of unconventional pieces that didn’t necessar-

site, I just want one look to get past 1,000 hypes.’ And that day

NEWELL: Do you have any regrets when it comes to past fash-

came, and then another look got hit up, and then they just

ion choices? Any unforgivable blunders?

kept coming. I’ve just gotten to a point to where I am so thank-

GALLAGHER: When it comes to fashion, I can honestly say that

ful that people are so appreciative. I get emails sometimes

I really do not have any regrets. You learn from everything.

from fans letting me know that they went out and bought

And if I wasn’t in a position before when I wore all neon one

some of the same pieces I own, and that is also benefiting

day to school, I would be in that position today! For instance,

other companies. It’s all an exchange.

I used to wear a lot of feminine clothes to school, and I really

NEWELL: So what are your plans for your business, consider-

thank my parents for turning their heads because I look back

ing your extensive fan base?

now and think, You know, I really shouldn’t have done that,

GALLAGHER: I’m really hoping that I will completely take off

but fashion evolves. If they would have stopped me when I was

by the end of the year. I’m giving myself two years to be

in high school, then I probably wouldn’t be doing what I am

financially stable, and just make a name for myself. I have

right now.

been investing so that I can ultimately invest in my own

NEWELL: Time for a cliché question. What inspires you?

company as a personal shopper and stylist. Right now it’s all

GALLAGHER: The biggest thing that inspires me is seeing

about putting together my portfolio, networking and making

somebody walk by in an outfit with their head held high,

relationships.

confidant, and owning what they are wearing.

NEWELL: If you were to succeed, and end up where you

NEWELL: What factors would you measure in to your success?

ultimately wanted to be, what would that look like?

GALLAGHER: When people ask why I am successful, I go ahead

GALLAGHER: I see myself being successful in the industry,

and factor in everything. I don’t want to go ahead and focus

having a lineup of a few celebrity clients that I could routinely

on any one thing and spread myself too thin. I dabble in a bit

style for editorials and red carpet events. I could also see

of everything so that I can be relatable and inspirational to my

myself styling for a high-end fashion magazine. What is really

readers. When it comes to fashion, you have to have a broad

important to me are making those relationships that help take

horizon when it comes to your motivation. And when people

you to that place—making sure that I am genuine and nice to

say that there are rules to fashion, I completely disagree with

everyone. To get anywhere in this industry, you can’t create

them. If you choose crazy colors, and you wear stripes with

bad connections. You have to be a happy-go-lucky person. It

polka dots, then that’s what you create. To me, that is high

will really get you places.

fashion.

Shooting Adam for this issue turned out to be no problem;

NEWELL: How frequently do you update new looks?

in front of the camera, he exudes an easy commanding

GALLAGHER: As often as I can. I have to keep updating,

confidence, which appears to be a honed talent. When asked

because my fans demand it. Especially living in LA, I have

if he would ever consider actual modeling, he relates the

gotten so many job offers just based off of people viewing my

pressures of the craft, and how hard it is to internally find

site. I have already represented ten businesses from ten

a happy medium. He changes the subject by motioning to his

different countries. I’m really thankful that I am in this

outfit, an amass of neon, plaid and solids, all tied together

position—it started out as fun, but now I am realizing that

with an olive blazer. “This is my favorite part of the outfit—it’s

I can do this in my real life! I can wake up and do something

a sock,” he says exuberantly, “I’m making it into an ascot.”

that I love every day.

With model good looks, unconventional ideas, and blatant

NEWEL: Considering the fact that super bloggers are now

determinedness when it comes to his business plans, there

designing their own capsule collections for H&M and posing in

appears to be no impending set backs on the horizon of Adam

ad campaigns that end up in Times Square, what do you think

Gallagher’s bustling future in the fashion industry.

being number one on Lookbook ultimately means for you?

GALLAGHER: It’s really funny, because when I first started posting on the site, I remember sitting at my friends house

Promise Newell is a writer based in the Los Angeles area

page 29

one day thinking, ‘I don’t care what kind of status I am on this

the time.

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ily go together. I like how I don’t have to be matchy-matchy all

m a rch 2011

TO SEE MORE OF ADAM'S LOOKS, CHECK OUT HIS PROFILE ON LOOKBOOK.NU OR HIS PERSONAL BLOG, WHATDREAMZ.BLOGSPOT.COM

By Molly Bright Hughes // Photography Joy Newell

PUT A LITTLE SPRING IN YOUR STEP inkm agonline.com

AN INTIMATE ADDRESS FROM IT GIRL MOLLY BRIGHT HUGHES

My wardrobe is currently in a 10-day rehabilitation program for page 30

neutral addiction. I took one look into my closet last week, a sea of vacantly colorless clothing staring back at me, and decided that it could not possibly be healthy to own so many achro-

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matic items. Now, while I admit that as I write this I am sporting an oatmeal tunic sweater with black leggings and beige socks, I am declaring a major boycott on palette-less purchases henceforth.

In bloom this Spring are gorgeous arrays of color, mixed textures, and bold prints in brilliant combinations with one another. Life is bursting forth with the promise of a million new possibilities, and I want to be a part of that. There is something about color that awakens you even on the dreariest of days. It brings a dynamic energy to any ensemble. I’ve found incredible fondness with complementary color pairings— oranges with blues, greens and pinks together—each intensifying the other and radiating vitality. Prints and textures have become beautiful partners to such vibrant color ways, creating dimension in a surprising way.

There has been an explosion of riotous hue on the runway, both for Spring and Fall, so don’t be wary of buying that electric blue top you’ve had your eye on. It will be relevant for quite some time. Invite some liveliness into your daily garb.

Add a splash of color or an unusual new print, and see if that spark rubs off on your attitude a bit. And for goodness sake, give that sheer black blouse and clingy white tee a rest for a little while. Sure, they’re awesome, but they’re getting tired.

Molly Bright Hughes is a freelance writer and stylist living in Southern California.

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ONE PIECE IN HIS COLLECTION—A SKY BLUE, POPPY, AND SAFFRON HALF-SLEEVE COLOR-BLOCKED SWEATER DRESS—IS PERFECTLY REMINISCENT OF ORPHIC COLORING

By Carolynn Williams // Illustrations David Procter

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ORPHISM ART FINDS A HOME IN FASHION

Color is an expected element of Spring fashion; after months of Winter

studio to close, Sonia continued to design for Heim, as well as

hibernation, added color in a wardrobe is a perfect post-Winter pick-

Metz & Co and private clients.

me-up. This Spring is no exception and has been noted for

Sonia Delaunay was the first living female artist to have

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the influx of surprising and intriguing color combinations

a retrospective exhibition at The Louvre in 1964. Opening

beyond our expectations. However, this season also seems

March 18 at the Smithsonian’s Cooper-Hewitt National Design

to be reminiscent of a small, yet influential art movement:

Museum in New York is an exhibition entitled “Color Moves:

Orphism.

Art and Fashion by Sonia Delaunay.” The exhibit will focus

Leonardo da Vinci is credited with being the first to

on Sonia Delaunay’s experiments with texture and color for

notice that, when observed adjacently, colors will influence

textiles and fashion from the 1920s to ‘40s. Of her husband,

each other. However, this idea wasn’t put into practice until

Sonia once said, “In Robert Delaunay I found a poet. A poet

1839, when chemist Michel Eugène Chevreul introduced a

who wrote not with words but with colors.” It is in this season’s

systematic approach to seeing color and contrasts and specific

designs by Marc Jacobs, Prada, Duro Olowu, and Tommy

method to draw attention to certain ones.

Hilfiger that we can see traces of the poetic color that set the

It was this work that explained a theory on contrasting

Orphic movement apart in a world of monochrome. Prabal

colors. Chevreul’s work showed that opposing complementary

Gurung provides a particularly good example for use of Orphic

colors will brighten while non-complementary colors will

coloring in his collection. One piece in his collection—a sky

appear "contaminated"—for example, a yellow next to a green

blue, poppy, and saffron half-sleeve color-blocked sweater

receives a violet tinge. Chevreul understood scientifically what

dress—is perfectly reminiscent of Orphic coloring. The

many artists knew instinctively. It is his work in color that led

contrast of bold blues with the cubes of orange displays the

to the Orphic art movement.

traditional Orphic method of using of using one color to draw

Orphism was aimed to appeal to the senses. This style employed overlapping planes of contrasting colors. French artists Sonia and Robert Delaunay co-founded the movement

attention to another. This technique can be seen throughout his S/S 2011 collection.

Honeysuckle, coral rose, and orange can be paired with a

in 1910. Their work is defined by bright and simultaneous

cool, refreshing color-wheel opposite like regatta for a vibrant

contrasting colors, distinguishing the art from the popular

color combination to incorporate the poetry of color that Sonia

monochromatic Cubist movement of the time. This can be

spoke of. Lavenders contain a subtle hint of red undertone

seen in Robert’s "Eiffel Tower Series," where there's movement

when combined with beeswax yellow. Use the trans-seasonal

by using reds and pinks in addition to cooler colors throughout

neutrals that ground this season’s palette to stabilize some

the piece. Although the Orphist group ended at the onset of

colors and to emphasize others—be a piece of art!

World War I, it had significant influence on the development of later abstract art movements. Sonia continued her work with color and textiles and in 1924. She opened a fashion studio

Carolynn Williams is a cultural anthropology student in Northern

with Jacques Heim. Although The Great Depression caused the

California with a slight addiction to vintage hats.

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By Tracy Mathewson // Photography Stefan Heinrichs

FREEDOM OF EXPRESSION WHAT IT MEANS TO STUDENT DESIGNER JULIE EILENBERGER BE A YOUTH IN FASHION

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At least in the UK, being a youth is becoming more and more a

and “sucked into” my inspiration and the world I make up

tumultuous venture. Increasing tuition fees, the dropping of Arts

in my head. I like to be all alone for a couple of weeks just

and Design courses and funding cuts to nearly every artistic

digging into pictures, movies or music, letting myself fall in

organization means our road of opportunity is going to have

love. I never take direct inspiration from things. I like to mix

to be supremely self-built. Youthfulness can no longer just be

my emotions with random sources of inspiration and then

fresh as a daisy or playful and naïve—it needs to take its own

somehow put everything in order, like tidying up my room.

lead and right its own way. Luckily, some people are making

Then I understand where I’m going with things and I start the

names for themselves doing just that.

practical work. I don’t like planning or analyzing.

Maybe it was the stark contrast between a desert-dune

MATHEWSON: Does working internationally from Berlin to

page 34 m a rch 2011

explorer in one collection and the shimmer of black Swarovski

London and everywhere else have an effect on your designs?

crystals in the next that showed a designer without a one-

Do you find inspiration from the cultures that surround you or

track mind. There is a hint of dare that comes along with such

is this more secondary?

a breadth of work, and with a current collection that draws as

EILENBERGER: Most definitely. Growing up near the ocean

much memory from the past as it does speculation into the

and forest in Denmark affects me just as much as the fast life

future of fashion, there’s plenty of things we want to know,

in London does. I like a variety of speed and surroundings;

because as of yet we can’t put a finger on what ties together a

it gives me perspective and lets me breathe. It also makes

shimmering galactic bodysuit to a bulbously yellow knitted

me look at myself differently. In Berlin everything is

sweater or its camouflaged precursors… except their designer.

really easygoing and slow, which makes me run faster. In

London-based fashion student Julie Eilenberger may be

London the constant movement and density makes me calm

more than difficult to catch up to, but amid trips back and

and sometimes longing for clean air and a simple life.

forth to the University of Arts in Berlin, this Danish-born

MATHEWSON: This is our youth issue, and you’re a student

designer managed to answer a few pressing questions.

en route to graduation; after you graduate, will you continue

TRACY MATHEWSON: Let’s start with a discussion on

this work, or what comes next? Also, (in context of the current

designer identity—as a student with a growing number of

artistic climate in the UK where jobs and financial support

collections, I’m curious as to what you see or find in your work

is dwindling for all things non-scientific) how can a growing

that makes it innately “you”. Transitively, what defines your

designer make work for herself and stay afloat at the same

creations from anyone else’s?

time?

JULIE EILENBERGER: As a student you have the freedom to

EILENBERGER: I am still a student planning my graduation

take chances and be free when you design. It’s important to

for this summer, which I am really looking forward to. I

explore and let everything out from within, to gain optimal

am currently interning with Christopher Kane, which I have

knowledge on what works and what doesn’t. Being in school

been doing since the beginning of October. It has been very

is a luxury; you don’t have a marketing team breathing down

inspiring to get an insight into such a fast growing and

your neck or the industry’s constant analysis of your work.

dynamic fashion company.

I would like to think that I can keep this liberating bubble

I am planning to start my own label after graduating

of freedom after graduating. It is this exact act of play that

and intend to do this from London. London is hard for small

defines every piece that I create.

businesses with many trying to make it here. In saying this,

MATHEWSON: There is an apparent connection between your

it is also the center of experimental fashion in Europe and

inspiration and the garments you’ve created in your previous

provides amazing opportunity if you can break through. It

collections; how do you go from sitting down in front of a sci-fi

is such an open-minded city with so many people passing

flick with a note pad to making a full collection? How do you

through, making it a very inspirational place.

translate raw inspiration into and onto a piece of fabric?

EILENBERGER: This really depends on the collection and the specific inspiration. But I do tend to get very overwhelmed

Tracy Mathewson, a UK-based writer, has great balls.

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"I LIKE A VARIETY OF SPEED AND SURROUNDINGS; IT GIVES ME PERSPECTIVE AND LETS ME BREATHE"

ORANGE COSMO

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY CHARLOTTE LIN. STYLING BY KRISTA SUNG FOR THEY REPRESENTATION. HAIR BY KATRINA MOLSON FOR THEY REPRESENTATION USING TRESEMMÉ HAIR CARE PRODUCTS. MAKEUP BY VANESSA MILLS USING DIOR, MAC AND LIME CRIME. NAILS BY STEPHANIE PARK. MODELED BY CHRISTINE POPOVICH @ RICHARD'S INTERNATIONAL MODEL MANAGEMENT

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EVERYTHING IS NEW

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LIGHT UP THE DAY IN A CACOPHANY

OF BOLD PRINTS AND JUICY BRIGHTS. PHOTOGRAPHY AND DESIGN BY MATTHEW BURDITT. STYLING BY Leanne Trigg, WITH ASSISTANCE FROM Candice Ho Lem. HAIR AND MAKEUP BY WIN LIU. MODELED BY NATALIE TUSZNIO @ MODE

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LEOPARD LULL TEMPER TIMELESS ANIMAL PRINTS WITH FRESH SPRING WHITES. PHOTOGRAPHY BY EMMA LAUREN. STYLING BY KERRY GIBBONS. HAIR JOEY OSO. MAKEUP BY ALISON CORNELY. MODELED BY VERONICA @ FENTON MOON MEDIA. jewelry by Lisa Freede

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m a rch 2011 page 53 inkm agonline.com photography by emma lauren, styling by kerry gibbons, hair by joey oso, makeup by alison cornely. modeled by veronica @ fenton moon media

Photography Rachel Hanel // Stylist Dana Hanegraaf // Hair & Makeup Jenna Baltes // Model Kelsey @ Ford Models

RETRO REVIVAL

MODERN DESIGNERS ENSURE THE FASHION OF DECADES PAST IS ALIVE AND WELL

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LET THE DARING SILHOUETTES AND GEOMETRIC ACCENTS BE THE BACKBONE TO YOUR SPRING WARDROBE. PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOHN TROXEL. MODELED BY MARIA LOZOWSKI

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STRUCTURE AND SUPPORT on the cover page 58

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SUNRISE SUNRISE

PHOTOGRAPHY BY NAOMI NISHI. STYLING BY MARY WAYMAN. MODELED BY ANNA GRAY

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VIVA.CITY.DANCE! IN

YOUTH IN

N REVOLT inkm agonline.com

on the cover

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY CHRIS WILOCKI. HAIR AND MAKEUP

BY MARY GUTHRIE. MODELED

BY ALYSSA @ FACTOR MODEL MANAGEMENT

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THIS MONTH MODEL ALYSSA, SIGNED WITH FACTOR MODEL MANAGEMENT (CHICAGO), COVERS OUR YOUTH ISSUE WITH CHICAGO-BASED BAND VIVA.CITY.DANCE!. THEY PERSONIFY THE LIVELY SPIRIT THIS ISSUE IS ALL ABOUT. SPUNK, ATTITUDE, AND A BIT OF SARCASM COMPACTED BURST IN THE FORM OF A MULTITUDE OF WHITE BALLOONS AND COLORED CONFETTI. ANGEL AND IZZY OF VIVA. CITY.DANCE! WERE PHOTOGRAPHED ALONGSIDE ALYSSA BY CHRIS WILOCKI—THEY SHOW US THEIR PERSONAL STYLE, INCLUDING BESPOKE JEWELRY. ALYSSA IS STYLED IN CUSTOM DESIGNS BY VICTORIA MCBRIDE. HANNAH STACK AND OUR OWN JOHN TROXEL DIRECTED THE SHOOT, DJ-ED THE SET, AND HELPED GATHER PROPS. FIND VIVA.CITY.DANCE!'S NEW SINGLE ON ITUNES. FOLLOW THEM ON MYSPACE AT MYSPACE.COM/VIVA.CITY.DANCE.

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on the cover

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ICEBERG

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PHOTOGRAPHY

BY ENNIS CHUNG. STYLING BY ALLEEVEDA THAMMAVONG. HAIR BY ABANTU. MAKEUP AND GROOMING BY BRE TERANISHI

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BOY BLUE

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FABRIC ILLUSION

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JON CANCELINO. STYLING BY Xza Louise

Higgins, WITH ASSISTANCE FROM NICOLE HUGHES. HAIR BY

MELISSA NICHOLSON-MESSER AND CHRISTINA

ARTRIP. MAKEUP BY ENID SEYMORE AND DE CARR. MODELED BY RUBY PARK, CHLOE CONDON, BRIA CONDON AND BRIANNA PEEPLES, ALL @ FACTOR MODEL MANAGEMENT, BRIANNA PAYNE, AND THEODORA AUSTIN

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on the cover

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By Skyler Madsen // Photography Magnus Blikeng

THE WALKMEN

come up with something new that does seem like fun again, or

releases and rousing live performances have made them indie

does seem inspiring; things get further and farther between.

rock’s best sleeper success. The Walkmen are comprised of Matt

MADSEN: During the recording for Lisbon, you had over 30

Barrick (drums), Peter Bauer (bass/organ), Hamilton Leithauser

songs. I know two songs that did not make the cut of the

(vocals/guitar), Paul Maroon (guitar/piano), and Walter Martin

album were released on a seven inch. Will we ever see more of

(organ/bass). 2010 saw the release of their album, Lisbon. The

those unreleased songs surface?

band’s sixth album is a stunningly sparse and polished record

BAUER: A couple came out as like the iTunes-exclusive

met to great critical acclaim. I sat down to talk one early

situations, or, like Amazon. There’s a dozen of those websites,

morning with Peter Bauer, before the group embarked on their

and we put a couple out doing things like that. But since then,

latest continent-jumping tour, to discuss song writing, and

I feel we’ve put out most of the ones, if not all, that are worth

how to balance life in and outside of a band.

getting out there. There is probably like eighteen songs out

SKYLER MADSEN: Firstly, I’d like to say Lisbon sounds, to me,

right now.

like a band truly honing in on their craft. The tracks flow

MADSEN: Speaking of, you were already said to be working on

into one another effortlessly, and it seems to be the most

new recordings right after Lisbon’s release. Is another album in

consistent output yet. Your guys’ music has certainly grown

the pipeline?

up with you. Do you feel, as a group, you are more comfortable

BAUER: Yeah, I don’t really know what we are going to do. I

within your sound?

mean, I know we want to write some songs that we feel are

PETER BAUER: Thanks. I think we stumbled on a really good

singles, so it would be fun to put out just singles for a while.

way of playing together over the years. I think, I don’t know…

But then, at the same time, maybe if we have like six or

every time we start writing a record, you’ve always got to start

something, we’ll get greedy and try to write a record. [laughs]

over again. But, yeah, I think we are really comfortable playing

We are just starting to have things come together that are

with each other. Like, when we play live we are very much a

sounding like they should be recorded and finished; something

unit, and we’ve been doing this for a long time.

more than just ideas. So we have to leave it open until we

MADSEN: Over ten years now, right?

know what it’s going to be. It changes every day, so we’ll see.

BAUER: Over, yeah, over ten years. I mean some of the guys

But we will definitely have something out sooner than later.

have been playing together since fifth grade.

We always try to write something where we have a record

MADSEN: In those ten years, how do you see the process of

come out every year, but it always ends up taking two years.

creating an album having changed since the beginning? Has

MADSEN: It happens.

the process gotten easier?

BAUER: [laughs] But as of right now, the plan would be, it’ll be

BAUER: It gets easier and harder. When you first start playing

done in a year.

in a band, every little thing you do is a new thing, so it’s

MADSEN: I know song writing for The Walkmen is a

exciting. After ten years you’ve gone through and done a lot of

collaborative effort. What is your personal creative process

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anything anymore. It becomes more difficult in that sense, to

happen. Over the course of a decade, consistently impressive

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the things that were exciting, and they don’t even seem like

a boisterous, horn-laden, guitar hook-filled sing-along waiting to

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The Walkmen, New York’s most gracefully aged rock quintet, are

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BRILLIANCE IN SIMPLICITY

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"IT GETS EASIER AND HARDER. WHEN YOU FIRST START PLAYING IN A BAND, EVERY LITTLE THING YOU DO IS A NEW THING, SO IT'S EXCITING"

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think something’s heavy, but it’s actually really mellow, or

the most part, on the last record, Paul [Maroon] and Walter

vice-versa. You don’t really know what your getting until it

[Martin] would get together and have just a tidbit of music

happens, until it’s done.

from the two of them playing together. Then, its a matter of

MADSEN: It seems, at least for the last few albums, you’ve

if Hamilton [Leithauser] can sing on something or not, that

been continuously working on songs for the next project, even

makes it go any farther. And then, eventually, we will put it all

when supporting the current album. Is that a preference?

together as a group. We’ve gotten to the point now where we

BAUER: Yeah. I mean, we didn’t do that one time after the

don’t play them together all that often until they are recorded

Bows and Arrows record and it was just so horrible trying to

in the studio. A lot of things are going to have that sound to

figure out how to do it again. Your life shifts so much between.

them where they are brand new. We figure it out as we are

If you stop doing something, your life changes in all these

recording it, as to what its actually going to be sounding like.

different ways. When we did the Bows and Arrows record we all

MADSEN: You’ve been all over the globe touring, and are

lived within three blocks of each other, and by the time we did

just about to embark on a tour with The New Pornographers.

the next record, some guys lived in Philadelphia, some guys

Anywhere in particular that is your favorite city to play?

lived in New York. I had a kid. And now we all have kids. Those

BAUER: I’d say Lisbon is our favorite city to play. We just

kind of life changes, they make you want to keep writing so

played there recently; it was really fun.

that however you are living your life doesn’t affect it. You can

MADSEN: Speaking of, much of the writing for this album was

take things gradually as opposed to all at once.

done in the city of Lisbon, the album’s namesake. Does where

MADSEN: Well, that is everything for me. It was awesome

you write directly affect the songs themselves?

talking to you!

BAUER: Yeah, I think it definitely affects what you do. It’s more

BAUER: Alright man! Thanks a lot.

the way you are living your life, in general. What kind of a

The Walkmen have succeeded time and time again by

person you are and everything else, whatever you are doing—

staying true to the goal of keeping it new and exciting. This is

I mean, I hope it does. I would think it has a major affect. The

especially fantastic, not only for the band, but certainly the

place you are in is a big part of who you are at that moment.

fans. There is no reason not to hope for another ten years of

MADSEN: The Walkmen have gone from a band with a sense of

activity and exceptional, lush songs from the band. Catch The

urgency in its beginnings, to a mellower, reflective route. Is

Walkmen on tour this spring, including at Bonnaroo Music and

that the result of a different approach to the music, or do you

Arts Festival.

believe that is simply a natural maturity that comes with age?

BAUER: No, no, I definitely think it’s a different approach to music. We definitely made that shift, one, because I think we like a lot of mellower music. You just try to find a way

Skyler Madsen is music writer based in Sacramento, CA.

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song, sometimes it’s a heavier song, and sometimes you

BAUER: It changes from every record and every song. For

on the cover

to make a song sound exciting; sometimes it’s a mellow

having multiple creative processes in the band work?

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when approaching a new song? How do the dynamics of

By Becca Wilde // Photography Simon Grossi

BAÏKAL AMOUR MAGISTRAL inkm agonline.com

THE FRANCE-BASED TRIO PREPARES TO RELEASE THEIR DEBUT ALBUM

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At first, the members of Baïkal Amour Magistral look like the

introduced himself to the members. “He told me he liked my

ultimate French cliché, as they smoke by the window of their Parisian

voice,” Pilorget recounts. “He took my guitar from my bag,

apartment, drink wine, and discuss their admiration for Belgian

played some songs, and I just thought, what a strange guy.”

singer, Jacques Brel. However, I am snapped back to reality when

It did not take long though for Pilorget’s skepticism to wear

they name the recently debuted album that has impressed

off. Baïkal Amour Magistrall went from a solo project to a full-

them the most: Kanye West’s My Beautiful Dark Twisted Fantasy.

fledged band. They have since released a self-titled demo that

It is such a surprisingly normal answer when you compare

concentrates on Pilorget’s vocals. Their debut album is in the

the album to their other musical influences, which include

works and they are looking into possibly touring France in the

everything from Fado, Russian Folk songs, and the trip-hop

near future.

group Archive.

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The band, which consists of singer Gwenaël Pilorget,

Together they have created a sound that is uniquely theirs.

To describe their music as “pop” alone does not cut it. Track

multi-instrumentalist Simon Beaumont, and bassist Etienne

upon track is full of pounding piano keys, a melancholic

Le Pelley, learn from their diverse musical mentors to bring

accordion, and to tie it all together, a trumpet. The albums

to their audiences a distinctive sound they simply classify as

are a bit of Balkan, a touch of Folk, and a hint of Hip-Hop.

“pop.” I had the opportunity to interview the members of Baïkal

With such comprehensive taste, pinpointing where their

Amour Magistral in France, with the intent of finding out what

musical talent will lead becomes difficult. “We are influenced

inspired their music.

by everything. There’s not one person band we like more,”

Twenty-year-old Simon Beaumont initially began Baïkal

Etienne says nodding at Beaumont. “His inspiration doesn’t

Amour Magistral in the confines of his home studios to combat

just come from French music. He can be inspired by the wind

boredom and create a “sadness fanfare.” The result was

or someone’s voice.” Beaumont nods staring at the floor, “I’m

his first demo Livresse des Nuages, which has since gained a

just inspired by melodies. I hear a melody in my mind and I

large following of fans around the world through YouTube.

immediately want to play it on an instrument.” After careful

Beaumont penned the lyrics, created the melodies, and played

thought, Pilorget sums up the discussion, “You have to write

all 14 instruments that include: the accordion, euphonium,

something. I understand, but we are inspired by a lot of things.

harmonica, organ, and autoharp. His band mates call him an

It’s our education, it’s our culture, and the music we listen to.”

autodidact who dedicates himself to learning new instruments

The interview ends and I am still not exactly sure what to

in the span of weeks. Le Pelley explains as he takes a drag

call their sound or who to list as their favorite artists. What I

from his cigarette, “He lives in his tiny apartment, in his tiny

do know is that Baïkal Amour Magistral does not discriminate.

room, with the windows closed, and just plays and plays these

Be it rap, disco, world or mainstream music, the band

instruments.”

members have the ability to appreciate the musician’s craft.

A year ago, Baïkal Amour Magistral could have correctly been labeled as a one-man band. Today, however, Beaumont

And with dedication, they have the ability to create something unique in the music world.

shares the song-writing process with Pilorget and Le Pelley— ex-members of the now defunct band Glass’n’T. They met after a performance one summer when Beaumont drunkenly

Becca Wilde is a student by day/writer by night from Providence, RI.

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"HE LIVES IN HIS TINY APARTMENT, IN HIS TINY ROOM, WITH THE WINDOWS CLOSED, AND JUST PLAYS AND PLAYS THESE INSTRUMENTS"

By Kellie Ferguson // Photography Daniel Arnold

HOLIDAY SHORES SUMMER LOVE

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Relaxed, joyful, warm and carefree are words that equate the

more like Georgia or South Carolina or something. It was never

quintessential feeling of Summer. These words also provide an

a factor. I grew up on the beach, but it was kind of just, weird

accurate description of the overwhelmingly sunny feeling that Holiday

timing I guess. You know, the album was recorded in winter,

Shores leaves listeners with. The band, named after their lead

and it wasn’t really something that was on our minds when we

singer’s Florida home, live up to their name with their first

worked on it.

full-length album, Columbus’d The Whim. The album playfully

FERGUSON: One of my personal favorites is the song “Edge Of

mixes an upbeat, surf-pop sound with soulful, poetic lyrics,

Our Lives.” The song is really upbeat, but behind the catchy

creating an interesting contrast that lends a haunting sound to

melody gives a haunting quality to the lyrics. What was the

the music. Holiday Shores began making a name for themselves

influence behind this song?

by touring with bands like The Morning Benders and Surfer Blood,

PEMBERTON: Yeah! It was probably one of the only songs that

and created quite a stir at CMJ in 2009. I recently had a chance

was truly about the beach. This song is kind of about like,

to discuss Holiday Shores with the lead vocalist and songwriter,

hurricanes. We had a lot of hurricanes where I grew up. We’d

Nathan Pemberton, who expresses his considerable musical

have to evacuate now and then. I have these images of driving

talent in every song with his reverberated flowing lyrics.

through really desolate towns, right before this big storm hits,

KELLIE FERGUSON: Your album Columbus’d The Whim has an

and there is this kind of creepy vibe to it. It’s really lonely and

interesting name. What exactly does it mean?

ominous. The song is just representative of that situation,.

NATHAN PEMBERTON: I guess what we were really thinking

FERGUSON: You’re about to go on tour with Tennis, right? Are

when we were putting the name together was kind of like a

you excited to be touring with them?

name about finding something, like searching for something.

PEMBERTON: Yeah, we’re getting ready to go on tour with

The name really represents pursuit, I guess. Just being in

Tennis in like, two weeks, and yeah! I think it’ll be really fun.

search of something.

I know that Tennis had come to one of our shows in Denver

FERGUSON: You’re band is comprised of roommates and

a long time ago, and we had met them there. I had kind of

friends of yours, correct? Does this create any obstacles or

forgotten about it. When they contacted us out of the blue

benefits?

and asked if we wanted to play some shows with them, and it

PEMBERTON: Yeah, it is. It’s fluctuated a lot over the last year

was totally an awesome reconnection. It was really awesome

or so, but it’s been a combination of friends and roommates

that a little shitty show in Denver had been seen by someone

and whoever can help out. Right now the lineup is pretty solid.

really cool. So I’m actually excited to be doing that. I think

It just makes it kind of a continual hangout session (laughs).

everyone is going to be expecting a really beach-pop-y show,

Which can be good and bad, I guess. But it makes for kind of

but our new record is really different versus our old one. So it’s

a good, continuous music discussion and at weird times and

going to be kind of a weird juxtaposition now between the two

different moments. It’s pretty good. We get sick of each other

bands. I think it’s going to be really fun.

after a while, but it’s not that bad.

FERGUSON: Was being in a band always a goal for you, or was

FERGUSON: Who inspires you?

this an unplanned opportunity?

PEMBERTON: I think we were, for this record we are working

PEMBERTON: It was a mixture of both. Making music is

on anyway, we were inspired a lot by probably more like 80’s

something I had done all throughout high school and college,

sounding bands, like 70’s sounding stuff. We were listening to

and then we did this record. It was kind of something we

a lot of, I don’t know, Tears For Fears. I guess Genesis—just a lot

were just going for, because, I don’t know, it’s a lot better than

of stuff like that. Yeah, so that’s inspiring, I guess.

the alternatives at the moment. It’s not like we’re just doing

FERGUSON: Your last album, Columbus’d The Whim was

this because we have no other options, it’s really just we all

compared to the lo-fi sounds of Waaves and Surfer Blood. I know

love music and we’d like to see that music become popular.

you’re originally from Florida, did that influence your beach-

So we’re trying to contribute our own touch of things to the

pop sound at all?

world, I guess.

PEMBERTON: Uh, not really, because we live on a part of

FERGUSON: How has your personal life changed since Holiday

Florida that’s not really near the beach. We live in Tallahassee,

Shores was created?

so we’re like an hour from the beach. Tallahassee is kind of

PEMBERTON: Actually, not much, at all. I get to travel a lot

chilly, and… [laughs] it’s not a typical Florida location. It feels

more, get out of the city a lot more. It’s really, that record

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didn’t change things too much, but having started working on

and rolling hills, or something we don’t really see in Florida.

another record, things have been a lot crazier lately—just a lot

It’s cool to just travel through regions, versus particular areas.

more hectic. We recorded it in Philadelphia, so now we have to

FERGUSON: Lastly, what can fans expect from Holiday Shores?

go out of town for like, two months and we went on tour with

PEMBERTON: Kind of weird pop music that will make them

The Morning Benders for a little bit, so it’s kind of been more

uncomfortable. [laughs] Ideally. I guess we changed things up a

hectic now, about a year and a half out from that last record.

little bit, so there’s a different vibe now.

It’s just picked up gradually, but no drastic changes, mostly

No matter what vibe Holiday Shores is going for, their

just normal life still.

creativity mixed with their knowledge and love of music

FERGUSON: You have toured quite a bit recently. Is there any

shines through every song they play. If their first album

place in particular that is memorable to you?

is any indication, they have a very bright future ahead of

PEMBERTON: I mean, there were tons of places that were

them. Although Holiday Shores are promising to change things

memorable on tour; they all kind of blend together, except the

up with the release of their new album, you can expect

big cities, or when you meet someone really cool in a small

something memorable. Check them out on tour with Tennis,

city. [laughs] But for the most part it’s all just billboards and

Idiot Glee, La Sera and more!

gas stations, and then spending four hours at the venue you’re playing at and it’s on to the next thing. We always love going to the Midwest, and driving through Wyoming, Montana or something where there are these gorgeous stretches, horizons

Kellie Ferguson is a student and music writer from San Diego, CA.

NOCTURNE OF EXPLODED CRYSTAL CHANDELIER SOUNDS JUST LIKE THE NAME WOULD SUGGEST: A DARK, CRASHING, GLASS SOUNDSCAPE

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By Andrew Jillson // Photography David Lichterman

SUN AIRWAY

AN EXPERIMENT IN EXPERIMENTATION

Sun Airway, a Philadelphia-based band, has a sound that mixes dark, psychedelic instrumentals with lofty pop vocals that creates wonderful synergy. The band is composed of Jon Barthmus on vocals and keys and Patrick Marsceill on the drums. Both Jon and Patrick break-up in 2008. That same year, the two teamed up to make music that departed from their usual rock music. I recently got the chance to have a conversation with Jon to talk about Sun Airway’s style and where they are heading with their sound.

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were once members of the indie band The A-Sides, before their

just experiment with that… and Sun Airway was born.” The band’s full-length debut, Nocturne of Exploded Crystal Chandelier, sounds just like the name would suggest: a dark, crashing, glass soundscape. In fact, that is almost entirely where the name of the album came from. “The name is partially taken from a piece by Ed Ruscha, called 'Exploded Crystal Chandelier Headache,'” says Barthmus. “I just really wanted something that I thought was equivalent to what the music sounds like.” Most of the tracks on Nocturne of Exploded Crystal Chandelier were demos that Barthmus had written for The A-Sides, but after they broke up, Barthmus and Marsceill used them for something far removed from the indie-rock they were intended for. Through the magic of modern technology, they took the old demos and made them sound right. Boy, did they make them sound right. From start to finish, Nocturne of Exploded Crystal Chandelier delivers such beautiful lush noise, with walls of ambient sounds that act as a backdrop for Jon’s perfect, poppy vocals.

The songs that would later become Nocturne of Exploded Crystal Chandelier were conceived with a bit more grandiosity than the colder, more electric feel heard on this album. “When I was first writing them, I was envisioning having a whole symphony in there,” said Barthmus, “but the presence of an orchestra can still be heard in Sun Airway.” The closer on of the LP, “Five Years,” is a perfect example of that idea. The final track fills all the spaces with chilled ambient droning and reverbed vocals that all coalesce into a giant wall of sound. “Five Years,” like the rest of Nocturne of Exploded Crystal

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with all this electronic stuff that I’d been discovering, and

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When asked about why he switched from guitar heavy rock to the sound of Sun Airway, Jon said, “I wanted to work

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Chandelier, progresses, climaxes, and leaves you at peace. “I want to go for a higher fidelity [with Sun Airway’s next release]; most of the lo-fi-ness was purely accidental,” says Barthmus.

Meaning the sound of Sun Airway isn’t fixed, and that's what

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is so enticing about having Jon Barthmus doing his own thing.

“Just like everything I’ve ever done, [the next record] will probably sound different from the last one,” says Barthmus. “I

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always like to keep changing.”

The sound of Nocturne of Exploded Crystal Chandelier was mostly created using Ableton Live, a highly modular sequencer that allows users to organize and access samples, effects, and virtual instruments on the fly—perfect not only for live shows, but for crafting all kinds of electronic music. Despite the fact that the album’s sound was shaped mostly through experimentation, it retains a cohesive and unified feel. Hard to believe such a unified album was not planned to sound like that from the start; every track feels so right.

When asked about the next album, Barthmus said, “we’re doing the songs and the recording at the same time.”

Using songs written for Sun Airway, instead of demos for The A-Sides, there should be an even greater unity of sound and spirit in the next release. One thing that can be said about Sun Airway, is that there is a definite feel to them. Even the remixes Barthmus puts out under Sun Airway’s name carry the same near-melancholy tone present in Nocturne of Exploded Crystal Chandelier. Knowing that he can imbue other musician’s works with his sound shows skill, and more importantly, style. Barthmus and Marsceill have a great way of approaching music production. With a penchant for growth, experimentation, and a style that is entirely their own, Sun Airway is definitely a fantastic new band to look out for.

Andrew Jillson is a DJ and music fanatic from Redlands, CA.

THE FINAL TRACK FILLS ALL THE SPACES WITH CHILLED AMBIENT DRONING AND REVERBED VOCALS THAT ALL COALESCE INTO A GIANT WALL OF SOUND

By Nicholas Naveda // Illustrations Chris de la Rosa

THE ONES THAT GOT AWAY FIVE NON-OSCAR NOMINATED FILMS TO SEEK OUT AND WATCH IMMEDIATELY

1. MONSTERS

It has never been cheaper to make a movie than it is right now, and the bar has certainly been raised for independent filmmakers looking to bring vast concepts to life. British filmmaker Gareth Edwards shot his science fiction

With the exception of the Sundance Film Festival, January and

monster film over the course of three weeks on location

February have been pretty unremarkable as far as movies go. With

in Mexico, Guatemala, Costa Rica and Texas with only

the first two months of the year serving more or less as a

seven crewmembers—all of whom traveled in a single van,

dumping grounds for studios, there hasn’t been much to see,

jumping out and shooting impromptu scenes with both

especially in the way of independent features.

cast members and non-actors of the various communities.

Financed independently and shot on a prosumer camera,

centered on the Oscars, which aired February 27th. While

the final product is a true beast of independent, grassroots

the Academy has nominated smaller films that deserve the

filmmaking. genre. We don’t see a crash landing, or mayhem unleashing

office successes like The King’s Speech and True Grit. Certainly,

on everyday civilians. We don’t get to see how our main

these are wonderfully crafted films and are deserving of

characters lived before the crash landing. It’s just not

the international notice, but the awards season fever has a

there. But we do know that something has happened. A

way of shutting out other films that are also deserving of the

NASA deep-space probe has crashed in Mexico and now the

attention.

entire northern region has become quarantined. Instead

Derek Cianfrance’s Blue Valentine, an unflinchingly honest

of spending the first twenty minutes showing us how this

and beautiful relationship drama, managed to get left out of

happened, Edwards throws us in the thick of things, a place

the Academy’s top ten list for Best Picture, despite the fact

where people are living with these creatures. The film is

that it was one of the year’s best. Michelle Williams garnered

centered on Andrew (Scoot McNairy of the amazing In Search

a nod in the Best Actress category, but Ryan Gosling was

of a Midnight Kiss), an American photojournalist, who is hired

oddly left out, even though he gave an equally unforgettable

by his boss to bring his daughter, Samantha (Whitney Able),

performance that can probably be considered a career best.

back to the United States where she is to be married to a

John Cameron Mitchell’s Rabbit Hole somehow got left out

man she seems to be having second thoughts about. Their

of the mix as well, even though it was easily one of the most

relationship forms from there and stays at the forefront as

unshakable and superbly made dramas of the year. Nicole

they travel across a quarantined northern Mexico.

Kidman also received the nod in the Best Actress category,

This is a huge monster film that exists on a very human

but the film as a whole deserves much more recognition. The

level. It’s been said that for a film with the title Monsters it

writing, directing and performances are all genuine, raw and

certainly doesn’t showcase much monster-ing or rapid-fire

netted perfectly into what was one of the best pictures of

destruction that is characteristic of the genre, which is

2010.

exactly what makes this film such a nuanced achievement.

Those films were lucky enough to get the Academy’s

It is through the eyes of Samantha and Andrew that we

recognition, but what about those that got completely

are able to see the destruction on an individual level, as

disregarded in all categories? Most of the films that get left

people struggling with life after monsters is commonplace

out are small and never get to enjoy a lengthy wide release.

in their environment. We rarely ever see the monsters,

They’re not huge money-makers and they don’t have the

but when we do it pays off in a big way. Edwards really

budgets to compete. And sadly, they get lost and left behind

shows us something fresh and exciting. Most of the tension

in the midst of media exclusion and extensive campaigning

comes from the incredible sound design and beautiful

by other pictures vying for the top prize. Want to learn more

cinematography. Surely monsters have a brooding presence,

about a few of the truly remarkable films that got overlooked

but they take backseat to a story that is more interested in

in 2010? Here are five must-see pictures that aren’t in the

exploring devastated humanity and a curiously interwoven

running for the elusive golden statue.

analysis of our view of outsiders. Gareth Edwards’ luminous achievement in guerilla filmmaking is profoundly moving and visually stunning, putting to shame most big-budget blockbusters that share its genre. Monsters is, in fact, a

Nicholas Naveda is a screenwriter, filmmaker and short nonfiction writer from the Los Angeles area.

m a rch 2011

Monsters doesn’t bother with the typical exposition of its

the majority of low-budget films get left in the cold by box

milestone for independent film of this generation.

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recognition, such as The Kids Are All Right and Winter’s Bone,

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As usual, the main focus of the last month or so has been

2. CYRUS

When I first caught Cyrus at the Los Angeles Film Festival last summer, I was completely enamored by independent filmmakers Mark and Jay Duplass’ third effort. The microbudgeted duo already boasts an impressive first two films, The Puffy Chair and Baghead, both of which were made with very little money and have been touted as landmarks within the Mumblecore movement of independent cinema, a name that the filmmakers have probably grown to resent. Call it

3. TINY FURNITURE

what you wish, but the Duplass Brothers make intelligent and

New York-based filmmaker Lena Dunham is a force to be

honest human comedies unlike anything else out there right

reckoned with. Her second feature film Tiny Furniture was

now. Cyrus was their first venture into studio territory after

impressively shot on the consumer-grade Canon 7D and in

having set the film up at the indie-friendly Fox Searchlight.

her own family’s New York loft. In fact, her real-life mother

Leading character John (John C. Reilly) is lonely, divorced,

and sister play her fictional mother and sister. The film

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aimless and in search of connection. His ex-wife (Catherine

earned her not only the Best Feature award at the South by

Keener) tries to be his biggest cheerleader by getting him out

Southwest Film Festival in 2010, but it earned her recognition

of his house and into the world. She convinces him to come

from comedy writer/director/producer-extraordinaire Judd

out to a party where he meets Molly (Marisa Tomei) and they

Apatow, who is currently producing a Showtime series that

immediately hit it off. For a few days everything seems to be

Dunham is going to write and direct. All in all, Lena Dunham

going well until John finds out that Molly has a twenty-two

owns an incredible low-budget success story that undeniably

year old son named Cyrus (Jonah Hill), who lives with her and

gives inspiration to all independent filmmakers living in

isn’t quite ready to let his mom date another man. Hilarity

obscurity.

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and awkwardness ensues.

Mark and Jay Duplass have an incredibly specific method.

Tiny Furniture tells the story of Aura, a character that seems to specifically mirror Dunham herself. She has

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They improvise every scene to not only land better laughs

recently graduated from a liberal arts college in the

that feel natural, but to achieve authenticity and depth on a

Midwest and returns to her mother’s Tribeca loft where

dramatic level. It’s been said that the filmmakers will shoot

she reconnects with old friends, engages in two dead-end

hours of improvised conversation, only to piece it together

relationships, and struggles to find direction in her life.

later in the editing room where the film really comes alive.

Thematically speaking, it’s like The Graduate for the YouTube

They’re completely fine with the story taking a different

generation. While this film won’t become an icon for this

direction, as long as they’re staying true to the characters.

generation as Nichols did for previous generations, Dunham

Surely, Fox Searchlight must have been made nervous by

has proven herself to be a unique and unflinchingly honest

their consistent close-ups, closed sets and improvised shoots,

new voice in film and television.

but it’s what they do. It’s their style, and it works. Cyrus is a

Dunham recently gave a Q&A after her film played at the

fine example of what a romantic comedy should do and this

Nuart Theater in Los Angeles. A lot of audience members

is because of the Duplass brother’s offbeat sensibilities as

were asking about the connection the film has to her real life.

filmmakers who continue writing even during the shoot.

Surely, her mother and sister were just playing characters,

It’s a curious love triangle of sorts about people who all

but the overall aimlessness and confusion in the face of

want to be loved and feel a sense of belonging, and how each

a “post-graduate delirium” came from a very real place.

of their needs get in the way of this being achieved. What’s

Without doubt, it’s a confessional piece of work. When

really remarkable about this film (and the filmmaker’s other

an audience member asked about the scene where Aura’s

films as well) is that the story relies heavily on fleshed out

character has cold, lifeless sex in an abandoned metal tube,

characters with real problems and a story that unfolds

she simply replied by saying that well, you hear things,

in ways that are true to life. The romance, frustration,

you do things. Dunham’s refreshing personal candidness

desperation and awkwardness feel authentic. Nothing is ever

materializes in her film through characters that are genuine

forced. As usual from the brothers, this film is a true slice of

and human. Tiny Furniture is a deftly written and visually

life that leads up to an honest and poignant climax. At one

impressive film of female empowerment that aims to capture

point, John vulnerably asks Molly, “is it weird for me to say

the multi-layered troubles of living in this generation by

that I just want things to work out?” No, John. It’s not. You’re

offering unique insight into the mind of an imperfect young

one of us, and we can feel it. The Duplass brothers are 3/3

woman who is just trying to find her way. This is a profound

and this was one of the best films of 2010.

documentation of the now and it needs to be seen, even if it didn’t receive wide distribution. Seek it out.

5. GREENBERG

Noah Baumbach is easily one of the most interesting—if not one of the best—filmmakers working today. After a few years of general obscurity, the director returned to the chair with the contemporary classic The Squid and the Whale. He then followed it up with the excellent and wildly underrated Margot at the Wedding. With these two films the writer/director solidified himself as a master analyst of American domestic life. While there were initially a lot of uncertainties regarding the casting of Ben Stiller, Greenberg is in fact another perfect entry to his astoundingly honest and perceptive filmography.

a second shot at who he could have been, he’s decided to

impressive body of work featuring performances that are

do nothing—which pretty much gets us up to speed with

equally hilarious and poignant, it is clear that Murray is one

Baumbach’s titled character. He’s house-sitting for his

of the great American actors living today. He’s notorious

brother’s family and has promised to build them a doghouse

for brilliant improvisation (which pretty much made Lost in

while they’re on vacation. When the dog falls ill Greenberg

Translation) and nuanced performances that often steal every

is forced to take care of him and follow a strict medication

single scene. Let’s face it, the man is a national treasure.

regiment. And despite not wanting to “do anything” he

However, for the first time in many, many years, Bill Murray

manages to form a somewhat romantic and emotionally

has been outshined in Aaron Schneider’s 2009 Toronto

abusive relationship with his brother’s assistant, Florence,

International Film Festival hit, Get Low.

played tenderly by the always-amazing Greta Gerwig.

Robert Duvall gives an Academy Award-worthy

Through his time spent doing “nothing” and reconnecting

performance as Felix Bush, a town hermit with an unsettling

with old friends, Greenberg is forced to see himself as he is –

secret. He lives alone in the woods and his life has becoming

the soul reason for everything that has gone wrong in his life.

nothing but a series of rumors passed down by townspeople.

“What do people say about me when I’m not around?”

Perhaps he’s killed a few, or runs with devil worshippers.

Greenberg asks at one point in the film. We’ve all wondered

Everyone has his or her theory. However, the town is taken

it. It’s in the back of our minds. But for Greenberg this is a

aback when Felix emerges from his secluded house to plan

gateway to understanding why he’s forty years old and still

his own funeral—an event he plans on personally attending

has not one meaningful relationship. He’s a vile human being

and utilizing to share why he has been so reclusive all of

for the most part and it’s hard to imagine why Florence would

these years. Quinn (Murray) owns the town funeral parlor

want to spend time with him. He does nothing but complain

and agrees to plan the unconventional funeral because his

about others and spends his time writing letters of criticism

business is in dire need of the money. As promised, the whole

to various companies such as Starbucks and Hollywood Pet Taxi.

event becomes a tragic spectacle.

No one would want to hang out with this guy, yet Baumbach

You won’t be able to shake this film. Robert Duvall’s

clearly has a sensitivity for this kind of deeply flawed person,

performance is a haunting transformation that stays with

as also shown in his previous films. It’s been said that a film

you. In fact, it’s one of his best, which is saying quite a bit

doesn’t work unless the writer gives the audience a reason

considering his impressive body of work. The back-and-forth

to root for the protagonist right off the bat, but Baumbach

between Felix and Quinn provides the film with a good deal

doesn’t follow this template. Stiller’s Greenberg is unbearable

of laughs. However, it’s all setup. Everything strange about

for most of the film, but as the story unfolds we are able to

this man and the relationships he has with the people of the

see why he is the way he is: a deceased mother, misguided

past ultimately sets up the climatic funeral scene, which is

youth, an insensitive and emotionally abusive brother, etc.

without a doubt one of the most powerful movie moments of

It’s these brief glimpses into his troubled life that allows

the year. For the first time Felix stands in front of his fellow

for the pathos to expand and subtly come to the forefront.

community members and expresses what he has kept hidden

It slowly creeps through and consumes. This bold writing

for far too long. The result is shocking, difficult to watch, and

choice throws convention to the wind and aims to paint

sweetly rewarding. This is one of the most moving films of

a portrait of someone we all know, or perhaps someone

the year, but it seems that no one saw it. In any case, while

lurking within us. Greenberg is certainly one of Baumbach’s

Murray offers another gem performance, this is Duvall’s

finest scripts and it confidently carries the weight of Stiller’s

film from beginning to end. Aaron Schneider, who wrote and

performance, which is a phenomenal career highlight for the

directed the picture, is unarguably a filmmaker on the rise.

well-known funnyman.

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and future success. Instead of rebuilding his life and taking

is born. That seems to be the trend lately. With such an

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somehow he managed to squander away all of his talents

Another year, another classic Bill Murray performance

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4. GET LOW

Roger Greenberg (Ben Stiller) is kind of like that one guy we’ve all known. At one time he had a lot going for him, but

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AND SO IT BEGINS.

HOMME I N K H o m m e p re s e nt s

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CONTENTS

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EDITORIALS 120 // Ignore My Disguise 123 // Murmur

126 AFTER THE LAST NIGHT OF WINTER

126 // After The Last Night of Winter

This Spring go light, or go home.

152 // It Takes Two

136 // Beach Blonde 142 // The Boys of London

158 // Je Suis Comme Je Suis

158 JE SUIS COMME JE SUIS

166 // Shop INK

ON THE COVER

Sophisticated suits and vintage shirts

Photography by Halldora and Bryan

on a quietly masculine model are the

Modeled by James Cox, Jordan Marthynus,

perfect closer for INK Homme Preview.

James G and Ollie, all @ AMCK Models, London

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DEAR READERS, It is with great excitement and pleasure that I announce the preview

We were also intrigued by the leopard prints we saw at

issue of the newest addition to the INK Magazine family, INK Homme!

Givenchy this season, and went with a similarly bold look for

This is INK's monthly supplement devoted entirely to all

the cover. It's a fresh look for a fresh new extension of INK

things menswear. Ours was a daring task when it came to

Magazine. We hope you're intrigued!

fabricating an entirely new publication, but it was clear long ago that we needed to open up and broaden our readership by

Keep Creating,

providing an outlet showcasing men's fashion. When it came to deciding if INK Magazine and INK Homme would be printed and displayed in two separate editions, the answer was an easy no. We know that there are many women who enjoy menswear, and vice-versa, and wanted to cater to both. We hope to provide a broader fashion experience to all of you, our valued readers.

For March 2011, the official preview issue and the beginning of the S/S 2011 season, we simply wanted to give you a taste of what's to come with INK Homme. It's a work in progress, and we're excited about that! Starting next issue it will go full-fledged, with in-depth articles, interviews, and reviews of everything from menswear designers to cool kicks. For now, though, fashion editorials take center stage. We made sure our pages reflected the crisp white and minimal detailing of the runway. Clean cuts and a neutral color palette are king.

John Troxel // Editor in Chief

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FROM THE EDITOR

IGNORE MY DISGUISE AUTUMN'S ORANGE CARRIES INTO SPRING. PHOTOGRAPHY BY GRANT HEINLEIN. MODELED BY GRANT HEINLEIN

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LIGHT GREY AND WHITE LAYERS INSPIRE A NEW LOOK FOR SPRING: GO FRESH, CLEAN AND SIMPLE

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MURMUR

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Robert Starks // Models Paul and Fedja @ Chosen

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Photography Petra Ford // Hair Ryan Burrell // Makeup

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AFTER THE LAST NIGHT OF WINTER

PHOTGRAPHY BY BECKY XUE-YING. STYLING BY CHARLIE BLAND AND OLIVIA ANDERTON. MODELED BY ADAM, ETIENNE, RYAN AND VASLEV, ALL @ OXYGEN MODEL MANAGEMENT

m a rch 2011 page 127 inkm agonline.com this and that page: on adam, coat burton shirt topman on ryan, jumper beyond retro shirt american apparel belt burton jeans lee on etienne, coat forgotten future trousers merc

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m a rch 2011 page 129 inkm agonline.com this and that page: on ryan, shirt wrangler undershirt american apparel jeans lee shoes aldo on etienne, shirt oliver spencer undershirt merc jeans topman shoes aldo on vaslov, shirt american apparel trousers american apparel

inkm agonline.com page 130 m a rch 2011 this page: jacket forgotten future shirt american apparel jeans topman shoes skive that page, from left: on ryan, jumper beyond retro shirt american apparel jeans lee shoes aldo watch firetrap on vaslov, jumper beyond retro shirt lee jeans lee on etienne, coat forgotten future shirt topman trousers merc shoes lacoste on adam (crouching), coat burton shirt topman trousers topman shoes skive

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inkm agonline.com page 132 m a rch 2011 this and that page: on ryan, jacket firetrap cardigan burton shirt firetrap jeans lee on adam, jacket merc shirt beyond retro jeans topman on etienne, jacket beyond retro shirt oliver spencer trousers merc

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m a rch 2011 page 135 inkm agonline.com this page: jacket firetrap cardigan burton shirt firetrap that page: jacket beyond retro shirt oliver spencer

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY VALERIA CHERCHI.

STYLING AND MAKEUP BY JESS

WU. MODELED BY ELLIOTT MACKIE

BEACH BLONDE

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THE BOYS OF LONDON

PHOTOGRAPHY BY HALLDORA AND BRYAN. MODELED BY JAMES COX, JORDAN MARTHYNUS, JAMES G AND OLLIE, ALL @ AMCK MODELS, LONDON

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inkm agonline.com page 150 m a rch 2011 ink does not endorse smoking. it is hazardous to health and illegal underage.

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IT TAKES TWO PHOTOGRAPHY BY PHEN MAS. STYLING BY CAT WRIGHT. HAIR BY SIENREE. MAKEUP BY Leibi Carias. MODELED BY SEAN ROBINSON @ NO TIES AND MIKE ROSE @ PHOTOGENICS

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button-up vintage yves saint laurent from haunter gatherer two-piece suit vintage from haunter gatherer pants vintage from haunter gatherer tie vintage from haunter gatherer shoes vintage from haunter gatherer

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY MICAELA HOO. STYLING BY ALIX JIANG. HAIR AND MAKEUP BY NORMAN GOLCHEHREH. MODELED BY ROBB @ JE MODEL

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JE SUIS COMME JE SUIS

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m a rch 2011 page 161 inkm agonline.com button-up vintage yves saint laurent from haunter gatherer two-piece suit vintage from haunter gatherer pants vintage from haunter gatherer tie vintage from haunter gatherer shoes vintage from haunter gatherer

inkm agonline.com page 162 m a rch 2011 this page: shirt mister, san francisco cardigan vintage from no, san francisco pants vintage naked & famous from no, san francisco belt marc jacobs shoes vintage from haunter gatherer that page: shirt vintage from malin landeaus, brooklyn, nyc coat vintage christian dior from no, san francisco pants vintage yves saint laurent from no, san francisco boots vintage from no, san francisco scarf oak nyc briefcase vintage from cobblestones, manhattan, nyc

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m a rch 2011 page 165 inkm agonline.com button-up vintage yves saint laurent from haunter gatherer two-piece suit vintage from haunter gatherer pants vintage from haunter gatherer tie vintage from haunter gatherer shoes vintage from haunter gatherer

Forgotten Future

Mister

6126

Friend of Mine

Misty Greer

A.P.C.

G-star

Monki

Acne

Gap

Motif 56 Naked & Famous

inkm agonline.com

Akira

Garner Grace

Akira Black Label

Gorman

Nathan Smith

Aldo

Gravity Pope Tailored Goods

Neuw Mustard

Alexis Bittar

Guess

NO (San Francisco)

Ali Ro

H&M

OAK, NYC

American Apparel

Halston

Obakki

Anastasia Chatzka

Haunter Gatherer

Oliver Spencer

Armani Exchange

Helmut Lang

Opening Ceremony

Betsey Johnson

Holt Renfrew

Peeps

Beyond Retro

House of Harlow

Pelican Avenue Peter Jensen

page 166

Born

House of Harlow 1960

Burton

Isabel Marant

Phillip Lim

Calvin Klein

Jean Paul Gaultier

Poetic License

Carven

Jeffrey Campbell

Polli

Caterine Sanchez

Jenni Kayne

Quicksilver

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Chloe

Jil Kacic

Rag & Bone

Chloe Sevigny for Opening

John Troxel

Roberto Cavalli Sam Edelman

Ceremony

Journelle

Crystal Jin

Katrina Muller

See by Chloe

Cusp

La Rok

Spanish Moss Vintage

Dalina (dalina.etsy.com)

Lacoste

Topman

Diane von Furstenberg

Lee

Topshop

Doc Martin's

Levi's

Trunk Show by Misty Greer

Dollhouse

Lion in Love

Twinkle by Wenlen

Doma

Maison Martin Margiela

Victoria McBride

Down Yonder

Mango Tree Bangles

Walter Steiger

Eugenia Kim

Marc Andrew

Wesley Nault

Express

Marc Jacobs

Winter Kate

Ferragamo

Marc by Marc

Wrangler

Firetrap

Maurie & Eve

Yves St Laurent

Foley & Karina

Melissa

Zappos

Forever 21

Mintage

Zara

Please contact us with inquires about any of the clothing or designers featured in this issue // inkmagemail@gmail.com

photography by chloe scheffe. clothing by isaiah whitmore of house of isaac andrew. modeled by tiffany parente connors

SHOP MARCH 2011 3.1 Phillip Lim

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HOMME I N K H o m m e p re s e nt s

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