THE
YOUTH ISSUE INK HOMME PLUS, A PREVIEW OF THE NEW
I N K M a g a z i n e p re s e nt s
march
//
2 011
v o l u m e 11 i , i s s u e i
youth in revolt by chris wilocki, boy blue by daniel gurton, structure and support by john troxel featuring wesley nault, peeps turns a chirp into a roar, the walkmen, baĂ?kal amour magistral + more interviews, fashion, and photography
featuring
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STAFF Editor in Chief Founders Creative Director INK Homme Creative Director Photography Editor Fashion Editor Styling Editor Music Editor Film Department Head European Director
John Troxel Aaliyeh Astar, John Troxel, Mike Bailey-Gates Promise Newell Adam Gallagher Joy Newell Matt Feniger Victoria McBride Katie Espinoza Nicholas Naveda Rinaldi
Australian Ambassador
Oliver Forbes
Graphic Designer
Chloe Scheffe
Fashion Writers
Alexandria Mangrum, Carolynn Williams, Jacobe Varela, Lindsay Lee, Liz Osban, Molly Bright Hughes, Monica Merel, Promise Newell, Taylor Bryant, Tracy Mathewson
Music Writers
Andrew Jillson, Becca Wilde, Kellie Ferguson, Skyler Madsen
Photographers
Alicia Vega, Chloe Scheffe, Chrissie White, Christopher Wilocki, Mike Bailey-Gates
Illustrator
Chelsey Scheffe
Stylist
Hannah Stack
It Girl
Molly Bright Hughes
CONTRIBUTORS Photographers
Becky Xue-Ying, Ben Sasso, Charlotte Lin, Christopher Wilocki, Daniel Arnold, Daniel Gurton, David Lichterman, Emma Lauren, Ennis Chung, Grant Heinlein, Halldora & Bryan, Jenny Woods, Jon Cancelino, Magnus Blikeng, Matthew Burditt, Micaela Hoo, Naomi Nishi, Petra Ford, Phen Mas, Rachel Hanel, Sarah Jane, Simon Grossi, Stefan Heinrichs, Valeria Cherchi
Directors, Assistants Stylists
Hannah Stack, Nicole Hughes Alix Jiang, Alleeveda Thammavong, Cat Wright, Charlie Bland, Christina Dietze, Dana Hanegraaf, Jess Wu, Kerry Gibbons, Krista Sung (for THEY Representation), Leanne Trig, Mary Wayman, Olivia Anderton, Xza Louis
Hair & Makeup
Abantu, Abby Thomley Searles, Alison Cornely, Bree Teranishi, Christina Artrip, De Carr, Enid Seymore, Etzel Ecleston, Jenna Baltes, Jess Wu, Joey Oso, Julia Rose, Katrina Molson (for THEY Representation), Leibi Caria, Mary Guthrie, Melissa NicholsonMesser, Monica Gingold, Norman Golchehreh, Robert Starks, Ryan Burrel, Sabrina Guzman, Sienree, Stephanie Park, Tracy Upson, Vanessa Mills, Win Liu
Models
Adam @ Oxygen, Alyssa @ Factor Model Management (Covergirl), Amelia Payne, Anna Gray, Bria Condon @ Factor Model Management, Brianna Peeples @ Factor Model Management, Chloe Condon @ Factor Management, Christina Dietza, Christine Popovich @ Richards International Model Management, Elliott
photograph by emma lauren
Mackie, Etienne @ Oxygen, Fedja @ Chosen, Haley Welsh, James Cox @ AMCK London, James G @ AMCK London, Jana Broughton @ Trump, John Lozowski, Jordan Marthynus @ AMCK London, Kelsey @ Ford, Maria Lozowski, Mike Rose @ Photogenics, Molly Bright Hughes (It Girl), Natalie Tusznio @ Mode, Nikki Bohn, Ollie @ AMCK London, Paul @ Chosen, Robb @ Je Model, Ruby Park @ Factor, Ryan @ Oxygen, Sean Robinson @ No Ties, Theodora Austin, Vaslev @ Oxygen, Veronica @ Fenton Moon Media Artists
Chris de la Rosa, David Proctor
FEATURED CONTRIBUTORS Ben Sasso is a self-taught 22-year-old photographer who has spent the majority of his time in Florida and California, giving him an appreciation
Nicholas Naveda is a filmmaker, screenwriter
for everything from high humidity to mountains to and cinephile from the Los Angeles area. His great food and full beards. He hopes to grow old
primary interest is to seek out underseen,
in a house with character while listening to
independent films and promote various
folk singers with unusual voices.
filmmakers living in obscurity.
More // bensasso.com
More // twitter.com/nicholasjnaveda
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ben sasso, photographer
nicholas naveda, writer Matthew is a Vancouver-based fashion and feature photographer with his roots in fashion design and music. He has worked with a wide variety of artists and talent to build a book which (he hopes) instills emotion through voyeuristic documentation of character. Highly narrative yet somber, his work can be found in the books of some of the more promising Canadian models and designers. More // matthewburditt.org
"HE HOPES TO GROW OLD IN A HOUSE WITH CHARACTER WHILE LISTENING TO FOLK SINGERS WITH UNUSUAL VOICES"
matthew burditt, photographer Naomi is a Brooklyn-based portrait photographer, originally from Los Angeles. She is graduating from the School of Visual Arts this Spring. More // dripbook.com/naominishi
— Ben Sasso naomi nishi, photographer
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CONTENTS
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86 BOY BLUE Boyish dressing is always in vogue.
40 EVERYTHING IS NEW Light up the day in a cacophony of bold prints and juicy brights.
82 ICEBERG
70 YOUTH IN REVOLT
Crisp, delicate white garments pair
This month model Alyssa, signed with
perfectly with well-loved denim.
Factor Model Management (Chicago), covers our Youth Issue with Chicagobased band Viva.City.Dance!
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DEAR READERS, Walking into a loft in Chicago on the morning of INK's March
vibe, with striking—yet youthful—features. And so, the INK
covershoot, carrying bags of fabric, streamers, and party-poppers,
March covergirl was chosen.
you might think I felt a bit unprepared for the huge task (directing,
Now, back to present—the shoot and the balloons and the
DJ-ing, and more) at hand. But Styling Editor Victoria McBride
rest of the party supplies. Tori and I were heading into photog-
and I were, after many hours of preperation, ready to go!
rapher Chris Wilocki's loft, and we were confident the shoot
Before I tell the whole story, though, let me take you back
would go well. Having worked with Chris before, and having
to the beginning. In the still biting cold months preceding the
seen much of his stellar photography, we had nothing to worry
holidays, I met INK Stylist Hannah Stack at a Starbucks out in
about. And what do you know? From the hair to the makeup,
the suburbs of Chicago. She said she had a couple of musi-
the wardrobe to the bespoke jewelry, it was totally fun. Only
cians I had to meet, and that they would be perfect for The
the best for our monthly debut!
Youth Issue. I was intrigued to learn that they're only seniors
We channel the jovial vibe of our cover throughout the
in high school, and agreed (of course ) that we meet up! From
issue, featuring colors, cuts, and patterns that radiate youth-
our very first meeting I could see that Viva.City.Dance!'s Izzy
ful energy. It's about the mixing of funk and minimalism. Fun
is very committed to and passionate about his music. He had
is thrust back into fashion this month, and we want you in on
ideas, and a strong vision of what his band's image is and how
it all too!
to blend it well with ours. Immediately I knew they belonged on our cover. Izzy's brother Angel, who is also in the band,
Keep Creating,
joined him. We then visited Factor Model Management here in Chicago and told them about the issue's theme and concept, introduced them to Viva.City.Dance!, and explained what kind of covergirl we were looking for. I was ecstatic when I saw Alyssa's comp card land in my inbox. She has a sort of rocker
John Troxel // Editor in Chief
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FROM THE EDITOR
CONTENTS
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ARTICLES
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004 // Masthead
EDITORIALS
006 // Featured Contributors
018 // The New Balance
009 // Letter from the Editor
020 // Bronzed
012 // Editor's Picks
022 // The Lioness
014 // Staff Picks
036 // Orange Cosmo
017 // Stripes are the Hype
040 // Everything is New
019 // From Bedwear to Streetwear
050 // Leopard Lull
024 // Backstage at New York Fashion Week
054 // Retro Revival
026 // Peeps Turns a Chirp into a Roar
058 // Structure and Support
028 // What Dreams May Come
066 // Sunrise Sunrise
030 // Put a Little Spring in Your Step
070 // Youth in Revolt
032 // Orphism Art Finds a Home in Fashion
082 // Iceberg
034 // Freedom of Expression
086 // Boy Blue
102 // The Walkmen
092 // Fabric Illusion
106 // Ba誰kal Amour Magistral 108 // Holiday Shores 110 // Sun Airway 113 // The Ones That Got Away 166 // Shop INK
ON THE COVER Photography by Chris Wilocki Modeled by Alyssa @ Factor Model Managment, with Angel and Izzy of Viva.City.Dance!
MOTHHOUSE. ETSY.COM inkm agonline.com
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By John Troxel
EDITOR'S PICKS necklace by moorea seal
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kristina @ factor wearing moorea seal
natural blue keratin
taylor stevens in pelican avenue
emily wright in leopard dress by john troxel
maria lozowski // me // john lozowski at shoot in philadelphia
frye engineer boots a classic white calvin klein tee
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wearing hand-dyed v-neck
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behind the scenes, paul & fedja @ chosen
hannah stack in marc by march jacobs for our new project. go to www.troxel.tk for more information
kristina @ factor wearing moorea seal
izzy and angel of viva. city.dance!, and ink stylist hannah at the youth issue covershoot in chicago
STAFF PICKS I can't get this stunning leather Proenza Schouler wallet out of my head. Crafted in This season, red is a thing of the past. Roll
Italy, bearing the signature front straps of
in the orange hues! With trends such as
the full-size PS1, and available in thirteen
Boho, Mod, and schoolboy-inspired Prep
colors (including "Smoke," above) this
resurfacing, pops of neon and burnt orange
beauty can be yours for only $165. That is,
add a refreshing tang to the collections. Marc
when design duo Jack McCollough and Laz-
Jacobs, Oscar de la Renta, Carolina Herrera,
aro Hernandez restock it (exclusively at pro-
and Prada all showcased the wonderfully
enzaschouler.com). Follow Proenza Schouler
vibrant color on their runways—they paved
on Facebook or Twitter for updates.
the way for a bold and outgoing Spring. And
— CHLOE SCHEFFE // Graphic Designer
collections that didn't include orange fabrics inkm agonline.com
incorporated the color via makeup and styling. Orange you happy to hear it? I know I am. — ADAM GALLAGHER // Creative Director
The Drums have been the sublime remedy to any of my exigent days. This spunky
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quartet are a flashback to 80's surf pop and it's because of their originality that they instantly usher in smiles. Let's call them
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the cure to the common cold. — KATIE ESPINOZA // Music Director
Artist Nick van Woert has a solo show coming up at New York's Yvon Lambert gallery. His mixed media manipulation of clas-
Only five years running and Little White
sic statues is compelling. I recently became
Lies has hit the mark with every issue. This
interested in the different perspectives on
magazine is stellar, covering most things
anatomy in both art and fashion, and van
film. With a brilliant design and illustra-
Woert truly has an original point of view.
tion staff, a healthy dose of cheekiness, and
The recent Thierry Mugler men's fashion
a miniscule price for all that, there's not
show and advertisements have been a cata-
much more your heart could desire. See it
lyst in thinking more about this influence.
all at www.littlewhitelies.co.uk.
— MATT FENIGER // Fashion Editor
— CHELSEY SCHEFFE // Staff Illustrator
Eleri Ward and her fantastic voice have captured my attention not only due to the fact that she is a junior in high school, but also because she writes almost all of the songs that she posts. I'm sure we'll see more of this young signer-songwriter soon! Find Eleri on YouTube at www.youtube.com/ user/xAimlessArtistx. — JOHN TROXEL // Editor in Chief
runway images courtesy of style.com, wallet image courtesy of proenzaschouler.com, magazine cover courtesy of little white lies, eleri ward photographed by john troxel wearing ann yee, album art courtesy of the drums, sculpture image courtesy of nick van woert.
By INK Editors
By INK Editors
STAFF PICKS I took the chance to interview London-based photographer Laura Olivia Baker. JOHN TROXEL: When and how did you start taking photographs? LAURA OLIVIA BAKER: I saw a film called Morvern Callar a few years ago, and after something that was equally blunt, raw, dreamy and beautiful. TROXEL: There's a certain spontaneity about your work. How to find that you get such candid captures? BAKER: I only ever work with film and I inkm agonline.com
always use a point and shoot camera that I got off eBay for like £2 or something. I guess that by keeping things simple my captures feel more natural. Even if I plan a photoshoot I always keep things simple by using natural light and never having the models wear any makeup.
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TROXEL: Where do you hope to do with photography in the future? BAKER: I like taking pictures and then
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making short films that stem from those photographs... I guess I'd love to make a proper film one day. TROXEL: What is it that keeps you making photographs? BAKER: Days filled with moments of fleeting beauty, exploring the world, and beautiful sunlight. TROXEL: Where can we see more of you? BAKER: lauraoliviabaker.com and vimeo. com/lauraoliviabaker. — JOHN TROXEL // Editor in Chief
Mary Katrantzou's SS11 show was inspiring to say the least. The house interior prints in her collection were taken right out of Architectural Digest and World of Interiors, according to Style.com. Australian designer Karla Spetic's SS11 followed in a similar vein featuring photographic patterns of unique landscapes. I find these graphics so intriguing and definitely foresee a rise and experimentation with these types of prints. — MATT FENIGER // Fashion Editor
top photographs courtesy of laura olivia baker, bottom photographs courtesy of mary katrantzou
watching it I remember wanting to create
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ON THE RUNWAY, A SINGLE LINE OF MODELS WAS INTERTWINED WITH HORIZONTAL, ZIGZAG, AND VERTICAL LINES
By Monica Merel // Photography John Troxel // Model John Lozowski
STRIPES ARE THE HYPE Sailor stripes have capsized and this spring—bold, bright and
bottom. Despite common myth, it will not give the illusion of
playful stripes are on board. It's about using stripes creatively
thick thighs.
in almost all categories: dresses, skirts and tops. For design-
Designer Junya Watanabe took a slightly different approach
ers like Prada bold and colorful stripes are moving in all kinds
with stripes. On the runway, a single line of models was inter-
of directions and in a variety of shades and widths, giving an
twined with horizontal, zigzag, and vertical lines. Mixed and
almost ‘70s aesthetic. Their palette consists of vibrant shades
meshed against one another, they created a wave-like move-
of red, hot pink, orange, and purple. The colors feel playful but
ment cross the runway. Illusionary stripes create a unique
the outfits look urban, which translates as a real head-turner.
look and will definitely make you stand out amongst all the
Flirty stripes are where youthfulness meets experimental. Marc by Marc Jacobs and Jean Paul Gaultier exemplify the bright
bright this season. Stripes went from jailbird to naval, to a bright and bold
striped-chic look. Their collections show that with the prop-
palette. They've finally broken free. You've earned your stripes,
erly done stripe any look can be put together. The way to
so wear ‘em!
achieve this is to make sure you keep in mind the golden rules of stripe selection. Keep it figure friendly. Stripes work best when they are fitted on top with a looser horizontal striped
Monica is a writer and art enthusiast based in Miami, FL.
Photography Ben Sasso // Hair Sabrina Guzman // Makeup Tracey Upson // Model Haley Welsh
THE NEW BALANCE
FOR A SWEETER DRAMA, MIX A MURMUR OF PASTEL WITH UTILITARIAN BOTTOMS
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By Stephanie Leke //
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FROM BEDWEAR TO STREETWEAR
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PAJAMA DRESSING HAS TAKEN THE RUNWAYS AND WALKWAYS BY STORM Most modern-day college students are guilty of doing the unthink-
ing this one simple item, the looks are completely transformed
able… wearing their pajamas beyond the confines of their dorm rooms
from nightwear into everyday wear. Add a basic top and an
and sporting them not only to classes, but social gatherings. What
unbuttoned, fitted blazer or trench and the look is complete.
may seem as a major fashion faux pas, however, has been
For those who are unwilling to part with prints like those
given a total revamp. Case in point—many of the women's
found in Max Osterweis and Erin Beatty’s collection for
Spring 2011 collections.
SUNO, go for patterns that aren’t too overwhelming and be
Designers including Alexander Wang, Francisco Costa, and
sure to mix and match shades and textures. Subtlety will
Karen Walker created looks reminiscent of sleepwear. Howev-
take a back seat resulting in looks that are bold, colorful, and
er, instead of plastering images of cute animals or superheroes
vibrant while feeling light and airy—with the warm weather
everywhere, they chose to use subtler colors and prints as well
approaching, it is the perfect combatant against those rising
as lighter, airier fabrics. Fusing them with streamlined cuts
temperatures during the transition from Spring to Summer.
and textures allows these looks to be worn both indoors and out, while easily being combined with wardrobe staples. A prime example is prominent throughout the Michael Kors
As harem pants continue to solidify their place in the fashion world, pajama dressing serves as the perfect compliment in a lean towards more comfortable daywear. Who wouldn’t
collection. Utilizing more neutral tones, his looks capitalize on
enjoy spending their waking hours enjoying the same plea-
the idea of sleepwear as daywear.
sures felt while curled up in bed wearing a comfy set of PJs?
One would expect this to be somewhat of a difficult task,
Sounds like quite the dream… and an even better reality.
but the key elements to making this a wearable look are accessories and keeping things minimal. Taking a cue from Mr. Kors, this would include the addition of a belt. By incorporat-
Stephanie Leke is a writer.
this page, right: foundation makeup forever high definition cheeks mac luna cream color base bronzer nars bronzing powder in laguna brow anastasia perfect brow pencil in medium ash lashes mac lashes #36 lips nars multiple tint in turks & caicos that page: foundation makeup forever high definition cheeks mac luna cream color base bronzer nars bronzing powder in laguna eyeliner givenchy eye pencil in white brow anastasia perfect brow pencil in medium ash lips mac lipstick in snob
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PHOTOGRAPHY BY SARAH JANE. HAIR BY JULIA ROSE. MAKEUP BY ETZEL ECLESTON. MODELED BY JANA BROUGHTON @ TRUMP MODEL MANAGEMENT
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BRONZED BOLD PASTELS WORK THEIR MAGIC ON A CANVAS OF SUN-KISSED SKIN.
THE LIONESS PHOTOGRAPHY BY JENNY WOODS. HAIR AND MAKEUP BY ABBY THOMLEY SEARLES. MODELED BY NIKKI BOHN
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4 2
5
3
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1 By Matt Feniger // Photography Matt Feniger
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BACKSTAGE AT NEW YORK FASHION WEEK NOMIA1
CFDA4 5 6
RAD HOURANI 10
Yara Flinn has to be one of the nicest (and most
This year during New York Fashion Week,
Rad Hourani is known for a dark color palette
beautiful!) designers I have ever met. This
Vogue organized a runway show with all the
and gothic-chic aesthetic; this season was no
season she was inspired by authentic
designers who have ever been nominated for a
different. Instead of succumbing to the
samurai costume, loosely referencing their
CFDA award. Pieces from Althuzarra, Michael
latest trends, Hourani sticks to what he
uniform through paneling and layering. I
Bastian, Marchesa, Pamela Love and Proenza
does best. A grey and black color scheme,
checked-in the guests who arrived for the
Schouler grazed the runway at Lincoln Cen-
mix of loose and tight silhouettes, and
presentation and as they left they could
ter. Backstage Senior Marketing Editor Mer-
asymmetrical lines comprised the Fall
not help but stop and mention their love
edith Burke helped editor Lawren Howell
2011 collection. Androgyny seems to be a
for the clothes. I could not take my eyes off
(head of the show) dress the models while
consistent theme throughout his designs
the shade of green she used throughout her
Andre Leon Tally, show speaker, watched
as both the male and female models wore
collection. Big things to come from Nomia!
the performance on screen. Although it
the same shoes, not to mention that most
wasn't a collection, since the looks were
pieces can be worn by both sexes.
all from different designers, the show was quite beautiful.
7
8 10
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6
FRANK TELL 7 8 9
BIJULES 2 3
What an absolutely incredible collection! The
For the Fall 2011 season, jewelry designer Jules
presentation opened with a short film of
Kim was inspired by the female genitalia. Jules
a girl with a geisha-like face wandering
explained that she loves to mix street and
around what seemed to be an Alaskan
high fashion. For her presentation she
landscape. There was only a bit of life with
used underground ultimate fighters (see
the green from surrounding trees peaking
Fight Club) to carry the trays of jewelry.
out of the snow as the girl, with her emo-
Pearls and diamonds adorned the uniquely
tionless painted white face, walks slowly in
shaped silver and gold earrings, rings and
a piece from the FW11 collection. I assisted
necklaces. Such exquisite pieces!
at Frank Tell's show two years ago and what an evolution since then! His use of yarn has always been interesting but mixing it
Matt Feniger is a fashion writer, editor and
with leather, lace, and fur this season cre-
creator from New York City.
ated such great texture contrasts.
By Matt Feniger // Photography Naomi Nishi
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PEEPS TURNS A CHIRP INTO A ROAR
on the cover page 26
I walk into Amelia Lindquist’s Brooklyn apartment where she is
12, Amelia began sewing her own clothes, cute girly dresses
cooking a cardamom cake in between shooting the Spring lookbook
that her friends envied. After taking a web design class she
for Peeps, her clothing brand. I sit at the kitchen table where the
finally decided to update her website and it slowly developed
jewelry is laid out for the shoot—her own turquoise and gold
into what Peeps is today.
necklaces dangle off the side while she points out certain
Amelia is currently a senior at the Parsons School of Design
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pieces an ex-boyfriend made. Amelia licks the spoon she is
and is working on her senior thesis—a collection completely
using to mix the cake batter and starts adding ingredients
embroidered in Scandinavian sweater patterns. An experience
as she sees fit. “Wait, vanilla extract isn’t on the recipe? I’ve
that motivated her as a designer was her internship two
been using it every time I make it!” she laughs. From creating
years ago at Jeremy Scott. “I got the position because of my
her own cake recipe to using her ex-boyfriend’s jewelry in the
website and because I knew how to sew. I was the youngest
lookbook, every choice Amelia makes seems to be personal,
one there, I was 19 and everyone else was 26,” Amelia said.
sewing herself into the seams. “When I make collections I
“That internship really got me going even more. Jeremy is the
think about things I would wear,” she explains. “My personal
most inspiring person; he’s so sweet and so fun.” In the fall of
style and Peeps collide, but I do tone it down a bit because I
2008, Amelia traveled with Scott to assist him at Paris Fashion
have to be practical with production costs.”
Week. Amelia is not attracted to specific designers, but rather
In the winter of 2008, Peeps started receiving recognition
to their different strengths. She finds Givenchy’s proportions
when it was featured on the Teen Vogue website and then
incredible and Alexander Wang’s ability to do details amazing.
trickled down into the blogosphere. “Susie Bubble wrote
“I mostly like independent brands,” she said. “There’s a
about me that Spring, which really got me a lot of customers,”
Brooklyn-based brand called Bodkin who has these weird
Amelia said. “I started making consistent collections, but
somewhat architectural silhouettes that are easy to wear.
because I started having too many orders, I couldn’t sew it all
They also focus on sustainability in fashion, which I think is
myself anymore.” However, this recognition was not instant,
really important.”
taking quite some time for Peeps to fully hatch. Amelia’s interest in fashion began when she was just a
This is what she pays attention to when designing Peeps. For her, fabric choice and details are what make a garment
chick. “When I was in third grade, I was really small and
and the spring collection has plenty of this. The line consists
could never fit into the clothes I wanted. I used to draw these
of looser dresses, skirts and blouses in rusty browns, beiges
horrible crop-top skirt dresses, sort of like the young sister’s
and blacks. With surprising cut outs, leather fringe and golden
prom dress in 10 Things I Hate About You,” she said. “That kind
clasped drawstrings, the details are what take the garments
of thing was amazing to me.” Her stepfather then bought her
to the next level. Peeps is very accessible with pieces people
the domain name peeps.org, her nickname at the time. At age
can style in their own unique way. The collection was inspired
can just throw on, because last summer I was in New York and you can’t wear anything else,” she explained. However, the main inspiration was New Mexico. “My uncle has a
page 27
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Mexican summer. “I was motivated to make dresses that you
on the cover
by one season in two locales—the New York City and the New
summers,” she said. “I’m obsessed with that whole style. It is all very Georgia O’ Keefe.” She reflects for a second and laughs. “I think even if I didn’t visit there I’d still be obsessed with it.” We finish our interview over a slice of her cardamom cake (which is quite amazing). The cake looks minimalist and simple, but the hint of vanilla and almond make it really delicious. Similarly, it is in the details of every Peeps piece that makes them so appetizing. With graduation soon approaching, I asked Amelia what is next for her. She responds, “I’m interested in textiles and texture and really executing collections so that’s what I’m going to play into. Peeps will always exist but I’m excited to start something else on the side.”
Matt Feniger is a fashion writer, editor and creator from New York City.
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vacation home in New Mexico and I grew up there during the
By Promise Newell // Photography Joy Newell
WHAT DREAMS MAY COME MEET INK HOMME'S NEW CREATIVE DIRECTOR, INTERNET IT BOY ADAM GALLAGHER
Rare, elusive, and exceedingly cunning when it comes to the art of personal flair, Adam Gallagher is the quixotic type of character you wish you could see on the streets every day. With a cult following boasting of more than 12,000 fans, it is no mystery how this fetching 19-year-old Pasadenian has climbed the ranks of lookbook.nu, to hold the coveted “Leader—All Time, Guys” spot on the online fashion blogger mecca. inkm agonline.com
In an age where posting quirky, conceptualized photographs on the web can grant instant access to free goods, front row tickets to the hottest fashion shows, and even stipends for product endorsement, Adam’s tendency to be slightly above the fray has certainly served him well—as he emerges a newfound style icon, he only further enhances his name brand. In our recent interview, Adam discusses his visually ec-
page 28
centric attire, analyses his marketing tactics, and strategizes future business plans. PROMISE NEWELL: How did you find out and get involved in
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contributing to Lookbook? ADAM GALLAGHER: I found out about Lookbook in 2009, when one of my friends turned me on to it. At first I was really skeptical—I didn’t even have a camera! But once I found out what it was, I was sold. It was really exclusive when it first came out, and you had to be invited to contribute, so I remembered waiting for like three weeks, and finally I got the invitation and started posting. It wasn’t until 2010 that I received any sort of reputation. Lookbook was really intriguing and intimidating because there were so many talented people all in the same place, and I knew I wanted to be one of them. NEWELL: Your look is obviously very diverse, and unconventional—how do you feel most people view your outfit choices? GALLAGHER: There are always going to be people who frown upon you, and I do get a lot of that. There’s constant hate in this society. Not everyone is going to understand how I dress, and why I do it. It’s about doing things for yourself, and ultimately, you have to live for yourself. The biggest thing people get on me for is why I do so many looks—"Why do you dress really boyish one day, and then really ethereal and feminine the next?" My answer to them is that you only live once. You’ve got to be open to a lot of different options in life. NEWELL: Let’s talk about some of your looks. What is your favorite look that you have pulled off so far? GALLAGHER: I don’t know! Everyone asks me that… I like them all for different reasons. But, recently I did a bohemian look with a lot of unconventional pieces that didn’t necessar-
site, I just want one look to get past 1,000 hypes.’ And that day
NEWELL: Do you have any regrets when it comes to past fash-
came, and then another look got hit up, and then they just
ion choices? Any unforgivable blunders?
kept coming. I’ve just gotten to a point to where I am so thank-
GALLAGHER: When it comes to fashion, I can honestly say that
ful that people are so appreciative. I get emails sometimes
I really do not have any regrets. You learn from everything.
from fans letting me know that they went out and bought
And if I wasn’t in a position before when I wore all neon one
some of the same pieces I own, and that is also benefiting
day to school, I would be in that position today! For instance,
other companies. It’s all an exchange.
I used to wear a lot of feminine clothes to school, and I really
NEWELL: So what are your plans for your business, consider-
thank my parents for turning their heads because I look back
ing your extensive fan base?
now and think, You know, I really shouldn’t have done that,
GALLAGHER: I’m really hoping that I will completely take off
but fashion evolves. If they would have stopped me when I was
by the end of the year. I’m giving myself two years to be
in high school, then I probably wouldn’t be doing what I am
financially stable, and just make a name for myself. I have
right now.
been investing so that I can ultimately invest in my own
NEWELL: Time for a cliché question. What inspires you?
company as a personal shopper and stylist. Right now it’s all
GALLAGHER: The biggest thing that inspires me is seeing
about putting together my portfolio, networking and making
somebody walk by in an outfit with their head held high,
relationships.
confidant, and owning what they are wearing.
NEWELL: If you were to succeed, and end up where you
NEWELL: What factors would you measure in to your success?
ultimately wanted to be, what would that look like?
GALLAGHER: When people ask why I am successful, I go ahead
GALLAGHER: I see myself being successful in the industry,
and factor in everything. I don’t want to go ahead and focus
having a lineup of a few celebrity clients that I could routinely
on any one thing and spread myself too thin. I dabble in a bit
style for editorials and red carpet events. I could also see
of everything so that I can be relatable and inspirational to my
myself styling for a high-end fashion magazine. What is really
readers. When it comes to fashion, you have to have a broad
important to me are making those relationships that help take
horizon when it comes to your motivation. And when people
you to that place—making sure that I am genuine and nice to
say that there are rules to fashion, I completely disagree with
everyone. To get anywhere in this industry, you can’t create
them. If you choose crazy colors, and you wear stripes with
bad connections. You have to be a happy-go-lucky person. It
polka dots, then that’s what you create. To me, that is high
will really get you places.
fashion.
Shooting Adam for this issue turned out to be no problem;
NEWELL: How frequently do you update new looks?
in front of the camera, he exudes an easy commanding
GALLAGHER: As often as I can. I have to keep updating,
confidence, which appears to be a honed talent. When asked
because my fans demand it. Especially living in LA, I have
if he would ever consider actual modeling, he relates the
gotten so many job offers just based off of people viewing my
pressures of the craft, and how hard it is to internally find
site. I have already represented ten businesses from ten
a happy medium. He changes the subject by motioning to his
different countries. I’m really thankful that I am in this
outfit, an amass of neon, plaid and solids, all tied together
position—it started out as fun, but now I am realizing that
with an olive blazer. “This is my favorite part of the outfit—it’s
I can do this in my real life! I can wake up and do something
a sock,” he says exuberantly, “I’m making it into an ascot.”
that I love every day.
With model good looks, unconventional ideas, and blatant
NEWEL: Considering the fact that super bloggers are now
determinedness when it comes to his business plans, there
designing their own capsule collections for H&M and posing in
appears to be no impending set backs on the horizon of Adam
ad campaigns that end up in Times Square, what do you think
Gallagher’s bustling future in the fashion industry.
being number one on Lookbook ultimately means for you? GALLAGHER: It’s really funny, because when I first started posting on the site, I remember sitting at my friends house
Promise Newell is a writer based in the Los Angeles area
page 29
one day thinking, ‘I don’t care what kind of status I am on this
the time.
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ily go together. I like how I don’t have to be matchy-matchy all
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TO SEE MORE OF ADAM'S LOOKS, CHECK OUT HIS PROFILE ON LOOKBOOK.NU OR HIS PERSONAL BLOG, WHATDREAMZ.BLOGSPOT.COM
By Molly Bright Hughes // Photography Joy Newell
PUT A LITTLE SPRING IN YOUR STEP inkm agonline.com
AN INTIMATE ADDRESS FROM IT GIRL MOLLY BRIGHT HUGHES
My wardrobe is currently in a 10-day rehabilitation program for page 30
neutral addiction. I took one look into my closet last week, a sea of vacantly colorless clothing staring back at me, and decided that it could not possibly be healthy to own so many achro-
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matic items. Now, while I admit that as I write this I am sporting an oatmeal tunic sweater with black leggings and beige socks, I am declaring a major boycott on palette-less purchases henceforth. In bloom this Spring are gorgeous arrays of color, mixed textures, and bold prints in brilliant combinations with one another. Life is bursting forth with the promise of a million new possibilities, and I want to be a part of that. There is something about color that awakens you even on the dreariest of days. It brings a dynamic energy to any ensemble. I’ve found incredible fondness with complementary color pairings— oranges with blues, greens and pinks together—each intensifying the other and radiating vitality. Prints and textures have become beautiful partners to such vibrant color ways, creating dimension in a surprising way. There has been an explosion of riotous hue on the runway, both for Spring and Fall, so don’t be wary of buying that electric blue top you’ve had your eye on. It will be relevant for quite some time. Invite some liveliness into your daily garb. Add a splash of color or an unusual new print, and see if that spark rubs off on your attitude a bit. And for goodness sake, give that sheer black blouse and clingy white tee a rest for a little while. Sure, they’re awesome, but they’re getting tired.
Molly Bright Hughes is a freelance writer and stylist living in Southern California.
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ONE PIECE IN HIS COLLECTION—A SKY BLUE, POPPY, AND SAFFRON HALF-SLEEVE COLOR-BLOCKED SWEATER DRESS—IS PERFECTLY REMINISCENT OF ORPHIC COLORING By Carolynn Williams // Illustrations David Procter
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ORPHISM ART FINDS A HOME IN FASHION
Color is an expected element of Spring fashion; after months of Winter
studio to close, Sonia continued to design for Heim, as well as
hibernation, added color in a wardrobe is a perfect post-Winter pick-
Metz & Co and private clients.
me-up. This Spring is no exception and has been noted for
Sonia Delaunay was the first living female artist to have
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the influx of surprising and intriguing color combinations
a retrospective exhibition at The Louvre in 1964. Opening
beyond our expectations. However, this season also seems
March 18 at the Smithsonian’s Cooper-Hewitt National Design
to be reminiscent of a small, yet influential art movement:
Museum in New York is an exhibition entitled “Color Moves:
Orphism.
Art and Fashion by Sonia Delaunay.” The exhibit will focus
Leonardo da Vinci is credited with being the first to
on Sonia Delaunay’s experiments with texture and color for
notice that, when observed adjacently, colors will influence
textiles and fashion from the 1920s to ‘40s. Of her husband,
each other. However, this idea wasn’t put into practice until
Sonia once said, “In Robert Delaunay I found a poet. A poet
1839, when chemist Michel Eugène Chevreul introduced a
who wrote not with words but with colors.” It is in this season’s
systematic approach to seeing color and contrasts and specific
designs by Marc Jacobs, Prada, Duro Olowu, and Tommy
method to draw attention to certain ones.
Hilfiger that we can see traces of the poetic color that set the
It was this work that explained a theory on contrasting
Orphic movement apart in a world of monochrome. Prabal
colors. Chevreul’s work showed that opposing complementary
Gurung provides a particularly good example for use of Orphic
colors will brighten while non-complementary colors will
coloring in his collection. One piece in his collection—a sky
appear "contaminated"—for example, a yellow next to a green
blue, poppy, and saffron half-sleeve color-blocked sweater
receives a violet tinge. Chevreul understood scientifically what
dress—is perfectly reminiscent of Orphic coloring. The
many artists knew instinctively. It is his work in color that led
contrast of bold blues with the cubes of orange displays the
to the Orphic art movement.
traditional Orphic method of using of using one color to draw
Orphism was aimed to appeal to the senses. This style employed overlapping planes of contrasting colors. French artists Sonia and Robert Delaunay co-founded the movement
attention to another. This technique can be seen throughout his S/S 2011 collection. Honeysuckle, coral rose, and orange can be paired with a
in 1910. Their work is defined by bright and simultaneous
cool, refreshing color-wheel opposite like regatta for a vibrant
contrasting colors, distinguishing the art from the popular
color combination to incorporate the poetry of color that Sonia
monochromatic Cubist movement of the time. This can be
spoke of. Lavenders contain a subtle hint of red undertone
seen in Robert’s "Eiffel Tower Series," where there's movement
when combined with beeswax yellow. Use the trans-seasonal
by using reds and pinks in addition to cooler colors throughout
neutrals that ground this season’s palette to stabilize some
the piece. Although the Orphist group ended at the onset of
colors and to emphasize others—be a piece of art!
World War I, it had significant influence on the development of later abstract art movements. Sonia continued her work with color and textiles and in 1924. She opened a fashion studio
Carolynn Williams is a cultural anthropology student in Northern
with Jacques Heim. Although The Great Depression caused the
California with a slight addiction to vintage hats.
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By Tracy Mathewson // Photography Stefan Heinrichs
FREEDOM OF EXPRESSION WHAT IT MEANS TO STUDENT DESIGNER JULIE EILENBERGER BE A YOUTH IN FASHION
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At least in the UK, being a youth is becoming more and more a
and “sucked into” my inspiration and the world I make up
tumultuous venture. Increasing tuition fees, the dropping of Arts
in my head. I like to be all alone for a couple of weeks just
and Design courses and funding cuts to nearly every artistic
digging into pictures, movies or music, letting myself fall in
organization means our road of opportunity is going to have
love. I never take direct inspiration from things. I like to mix
to be supremely self-built. Youthfulness can no longer just be
my emotions with random sources of inspiration and then
fresh as a daisy or playful and naïve—it needs to take its own
somehow put everything in order, like tidying up my room.
lead and right its own way. Luckily, some people are making
Then I understand where I’m going with things and I start the
names for themselves doing just that.
practical work. I don’t like planning or analyzing.
Maybe it was the stark contrast between a desert-dune
MATHEWSON: Does working internationally from Berlin to
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explorer in one collection and the shimmer of black Swarovski
London and everywhere else have an effect on your designs?
crystals in the next that showed a designer without a one-
Do you find inspiration from the cultures that surround you or
track mind. There is a hint of dare that comes along with such
is this more secondary?
a breadth of work, and with a current collection that draws as
EILENBERGER: Most definitely. Growing up near the ocean
much memory from the past as it does speculation into the
and forest in Denmark affects me just as much as the fast life
future of fashion, there’s plenty of things we want to know,
in London does. I like a variety of speed and surroundings;
because as of yet we can’t put a finger on what ties together a
it gives me perspective and lets me breathe. It also makes
shimmering galactic bodysuit to a bulbously yellow knitted
me look at myself differently. In Berlin everything is
sweater or its camouflaged precursors… except their designer.
really easygoing and slow, which makes me run faster. In
London-based fashion student Julie Eilenberger may be
London the constant movement and density makes me calm
more than difficult to catch up to, but amid trips back and
and sometimes longing for clean air and a simple life.
forth to the University of Arts in Berlin, this Danish-born
MATHEWSON: This is our youth issue, and you’re a student
designer managed to answer a few pressing questions.
en route to graduation; after you graduate, will you continue
TRACY MATHEWSON: Let’s start with a discussion on
this work, or what comes next? Also, (in context of the current
designer identity—as a student with a growing number of
artistic climate in the UK where jobs and financial support
collections, I’m curious as to what you see or find in your work
is dwindling for all things non-scientific) how can a growing
that makes it innately “you”. Transitively, what defines your
designer make work for herself and stay afloat at the same
creations from anyone else’s?
time?
JULIE EILENBERGER: As a student you have the freedom to
EILENBERGER: I am still a student planning my graduation
take chances and be free when you design. It’s important to
for this summer, which I am really looking forward to. I
explore and let everything out from within, to gain optimal
am currently interning with Christopher Kane, which I have
knowledge on what works and what doesn’t. Being in school
been doing since the beginning of October. It has been very
is a luxury; you don’t have a marketing team breathing down
inspiring to get an insight into such a fast growing and
your neck or the industry’s constant analysis of your work.
dynamic fashion company.
I would like to think that I can keep this liberating bubble
I am planning to start my own label after graduating
of freedom after graduating. It is this exact act of play that
and intend to do this from London. London is hard for small
defines every piece that I create.
businesses with many trying to make it here. In saying this,
MATHEWSON: There is an apparent connection between your
it is also the center of experimental fashion in Europe and
inspiration and the garments you’ve created in your previous
provides amazing opportunity if you can break through. It
collections; how do you go from sitting down in front of a sci-fi
is such an open-minded city with so many people passing
flick with a note pad to making a full collection? How do you
through, making it a very inspirational place.
translate raw inspiration into and onto a piece of fabric? EILENBERGER: This really depends on the collection and the specific inspiration. But I do tend to get very overwhelmed
Tracy Mathewson, a UK-based writer, has great balls.
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"I LIKE A VARIETY OF SPEED AND SURROUNDINGS; IT GIVES ME PERSPECTIVE AND LETS ME BREATHE"
ORANGE COSMO
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PHOTOGRAPHY BY CHARLOTTE LIN. STYLING BY KRISTA SUNG FOR THEY REPRESENTATION. HAIR BY KATRINA MOLSON FOR THEY REPRESENTATION USING TRESEMMÉ HAIR CARE PRODUCTS. MAKEUP BY VANESSA MILLS USING DIOR, MAC AND LIME CRIME. NAILS BY STEPHANIE PARK. MODELED BY CHRISTINE POPOVICH @ RICHARD'S INTERNATIONAL MODEL MANAGEMENT
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EVERYTHING IS NEW
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LIGHT UP THE DAY IN A CACOPHANY OF BOLD PRINTS AND JUICY BRIGHTS. PHOTOGRAPHY AND DESIGN BY MATTHEW BURDITT. STYLING BY Leanne Trigg, WITH ASSISTANCE FROM Candice Ho Lem. HAIR AND MAKEUP BY WIN LIU. MODELED BY NATALIE TUSZNIO @ MODE
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LEOPARD LULL TEMPER TIMELESS ANIMAL PRINTS WITH FRESH SPRING WHITES. PHOTOGRAPHY BY EMMA LAUREN. STYLING BY KERRY GIBBONS. HAIR JOEY OSO. MAKEUP BY ALISON CORNELY. MODELED BY VERONICA @ FENTON MOON MEDIA. jewelry by Lisa Freede
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m a rch 2011 page 53 inkm agonline.com photography by emma lauren, styling by kerry gibbons, hair by joey oso, makeup by alison cornely. modeled by veronica @ fenton moon media
Photography Rachel Hanel // Stylist Dana Hanegraaf // Hair & Makeup Jenna Baltes // Model Kelsey @ Ford Models
RETRO REVIVAL
MODERN DESIGNERS ENSURE THE FASHION OF DECADES PAST IS ALIVE AND WELL
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LET THE DARING SILHOUETTES AND GEOMETRIC ACCENTS BE THE BACKBONE TO YOUR SPRING WARDROBE. PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOHN TROXEL. MODELED BY MARIA LOZOWSKI
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STRUCTURE AND SUPPORT on the cover page 58
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SUNRISE SUNRISE
PHOTOGRAPHY BY NAOMI NISHI. STYLING BY MARY WAYMAN. MODELED BY ANNA GRAY
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VIVA.CITY.DANCE! IN
YOUTH IN
N REVOLT inkm agonline.com
on the cover
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PHOTOGRAPHY BY CHRIS WILOCKI. HAIR AND MAKEUP BY MARY GUTHRIE. MODELED BY ALYSSA @ FACTOR MODEL MANAGEMENT
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THIS MONTH MODEL ALYSSA, SIGNED WITH FACTOR MODEL MANAGEMENT (CHICAGO), COVERS OUR YOUTH ISSUE WITH CHICAGO-BASED BAND VIVA.CITY.DANCE!. THEY PERSONIFY THE LIVELY SPIRIT THIS ISSUE IS ALL ABOUT. SPUNK, ATTITUDE, AND A BIT OF SARCASM COMPACTED BURST IN THE FORM OF A MULTITUDE OF WHITE BALLOONS AND COLORED CONFETTI. ANGEL AND IZZY OF VIVA. CITY.DANCE! WERE PHOTOGRAPHED ALONGSIDE ALYSSA BY CHRIS WILOCKI—THEY SHOW US THEIR PERSONAL STYLE, INCLUDING BESPOKE JEWELRY. ALYSSA IS STYLED IN CUSTOM DESIGNS BY VICTORIA MCBRIDE. HANNAH STACK AND OUR OWN JOHN TROXEL DIRECTED THE SHOOT, DJ-ED THE SET, AND HELPED GATHER PROPS. FIND VIVA.CITY.DANCE!'S NEW SINGLE ON ITUNES. FOLLOW THEM ON MYSPACE AT MYSPACE.COM/VIVA.CITY.DANCE.
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ICEBERG
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PHOTOGRAPHY BY ENNIS CHUNG. STYLING BY ALLEEVEDA THAMMAVONG. HAIR BY ABANTU. MAKEUP AND GROOMING BY BRE TERANISHI
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BOY BLUE
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FABRIC ILLUSION
PHOTOGRAPHY BY JON CANCELINO. STYLING BY Xza Louise Higgins, WITH ASSISTANCE FROM NICOLE HUGHES. HAIR BY MELISSA NICHOLSON-MESSER AND CHRISTINA ARTRIP. MAKEUP BY ENID SEYMORE AND DE CARR. MODELED BY RUBY PARK, CHLOE CONDON, BRIA CONDON AND BRIANNA PEEPLES, ALL @ FACTOR MODEL MANAGEMENT, BRIANNA PAYNE, AND THEODORA AUSTIN
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By Skyler Madsen // Photography Magnus Blikeng
THE WALKMEN
come up with something new that does seem like fun again, or
releases and rousing live performances have made them indie
does seem inspiring; things get further and farther between.
rock’s best sleeper success. The Walkmen are comprised of Matt
MADSEN: During the recording for Lisbon, you had over 30
Barrick (drums), Peter Bauer (bass/organ), Hamilton Leithauser
songs. I know two songs that did not make the cut of the
(vocals/guitar), Paul Maroon (guitar/piano), and Walter Martin
album were released on a seven inch. Will we ever see more of
(organ/bass). 2010 saw the release of their album, Lisbon. The
those unreleased songs surface?
band’s sixth album is a stunningly sparse and polished record
BAUER: A couple came out as like the iTunes-exclusive
met to great critical acclaim. I sat down to talk one early
situations, or, like Amazon. There’s a dozen of those websites,
morning with Peter Bauer, before the group embarked on their
and we put a couple out doing things like that. But since then,
latest continent-jumping tour, to discuss song writing, and
I feel we’ve put out most of the ones, if not all, that are worth
how to balance life in and outside of a band.
getting out there. There is probably like eighteen songs out
SKYLER MADSEN: Firstly, I’d like to say Lisbon sounds, to me,
right now.
like a band truly honing in on their craft. The tracks flow
MADSEN: Speaking of, you were already said to be working on
into one another effortlessly, and it seems to be the most
new recordings right after Lisbon’s release. Is another album in
consistent output yet. Your guys’ music has certainly grown
the pipeline?
up with you. Do you feel, as a group, you are more comfortable
BAUER: Yeah, I don’t really know what we are going to do. I
within your sound?
mean, I know we want to write some songs that we feel are
PETER BAUER: Thanks. I think we stumbled on a really good
singles, so it would be fun to put out just singles for a while.
way of playing together over the years. I think, I don’t know…
But then, at the same time, maybe if we have like six or
every time we start writing a record, you’ve always got to start
something, we’ll get greedy and try to write a record. [laughs]
over again. But, yeah, I think we are really comfortable playing
We are just starting to have things come together that are
with each other. Like, when we play live we are very much a
sounding like they should be recorded and finished; something
unit, and we’ve been doing this for a long time.
more than just ideas. So we have to leave it open until we
MADSEN: Over ten years now, right?
know what it’s going to be. It changes every day, so we’ll see.
BAUER: Over, yeah, over ten years. I mean some of the guys
But we will definitely have something out sooner than later.
have been playing together since fifth grade.
We always try to write something where we have a record
MADSEN: In those ten years, how do you see the process of
come out every year, but it always ends up taking two years.
creating an album having changed since the beginning? Has
MADSEN: It happens.
the process gotten easier?
BAUER: [laughs] But as of right now, the plan would be, it’ll be
BAUER: It gets easier and harder. When you first start playing
done in a year.
in a band, every little thing you do is a new thing, so it’s
MADSEN: I know song writing for The Walkmen is a
exciting. After ten years you’ve gone through and done a lot of
collaborative effort. What is your personal creative process
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anything anymore. It becomes more difficult in that sense, to
happen. Over the course of a decade, consistently impressive
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the things that were exciting, and they don’t even seem like
a boisterous, horn-laden, guitar hook-filled sing-along waiting to
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The Walkmen, New York’s most gracefully aged rock quintet, are
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BRILLIANCE IN SIMPLICITY
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"IT GETS EASIER AND HARDER. WHEN YOU FIRST START PLAYING IN A BAND, EVERY LITTLE THING YOU DO IS A NEW THING, SO IT'S EXCITING"
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think something’s heavy, but it’s actually really mellow, or
the most part, on the last record, Paul [Maroon] and Walter
vice-versa. You don’t really know what your getting until it
[Martin] would get together and have just a tidbit of music
happens, until it’s done.
from the two of them playing together. Then, its a matter of
MADSEN: It seems, at least for the last few albums, you’ve
if Hamilton [Leithauser] can sing on something or not, that
been continuously working on songs for the next project, even
makes it go any farther. And then, eventually, we will put it all
when supporting the current album. Is that a preference?
together as a group. We’ve gotten to the point now where we
BAUER: Yeah. I mean, we didn’t do that one time after the
don’t play them together all that often until they are recorded
Bows and Arrows record and it was just so horrible trying to
in the studio. A lot of things are going to have that sound to
figure out how to do it again. Your life shifts so much between.
them where they are brand new. We figure it out as we are
If you stop doing something, your life changes in all these
recording it, as to what its actually going to be sounding like.
different ways. When we did the Bows and Arrows record we all
MADSEN: You’ve been all over the globe touring, and are
lived within three blocks of each other, and by the time we did
just about to embark on a tour with The New Pornographers.
the next record, some guys lived in Philadelphia, some guys
Anywhere in particular that is your favorite city to play?
lived in New York. I had a kid. And now we all have kids. Those
BAUER: I’d say Lisbon is our favorite city to play. We just
kind of life changes, they make you want to keep writing so
played there recently; it was really fun.
that however you are living your life doesn’t affect it. You can
MADSEN: Speaking of, much of the writing for this album was
take things gradually as opposed to all at once.
done in the city of Lisbon, the album’s namesake. Does where
MADSEN: Well, that is everything for me. It was awesome
you write directly affect the songs themselves?
talking to you!
BAUER: Yeah, I think it definitely affects what you do. It’s more
BAUER: Alright man! Thanks a lot.
the way you are living your life, in general. What kind of a
The Walkmen have succeeded time and time again by
person you are and everything else, whatever you are doing—
staying true to the goal of keeping it new and exciting. This is
I mean, I hope it does. I would think it has a major affect. The
especially fantastic, not only for the band, but certainly the
place you are in is a big part of who you are at that moment.
fans. There is no reason not to hope for another ten years of
MADSEN: The Walkmen have gone from a band with a sense of
activity and exceptional, lush songs from the band. Catch The
urgency in its beginnings, to a mellower, reflective route. Is
Walkmen on tour this spring, including at Bonnaroo Music and
that the result of a different approach to the music, or do you
Arts Festival.
believe that is simply a natural maturity that comes with age? BAUER: No, no, I definitely think it’s a different approach to music. We definitely made that shift, one, because I think we like a lot of mellower music. You just try to find a way
Skyler Madsen is music writer based in Sacramento, CA.
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song, sometimes it’s a heavier song, and sometimes you
BAUER: It changes from every record and every song. For
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to make a song sound exciting; sometimes it’s a mellow
having multiple creative processes in the band work?
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when approaching a new song? How do the dynamics of
By Becca Wilde // Photography Simon Grossi
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THE FRANCE-BASED TRIO PREPARES TO RELEASE THEIR DEBUT ALBUM
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At first, the members of Baïkal Amour Magistral look like the
introduced himself to the members. “He told me he liked my
ultimate French cliché, as they smoke by the window of their Parisian
voice,” Pilorget recounts. “He took my guitar from my bag,
apartment, drink wine, and discuss their admiration for Belgian
played some songs, and I just thought, what a strange guy.”
singer, Jacques Brel. However, I am snapped back to reality when
It did not take long though for Pilorget’s skepticism to wear
they name the recently debuted album that has impressed
off. Baïkal Amour Magistrall went from a solo project to a full-
them the most: Kanye West’s My Beautiful Dark Twisted Fantasy.
fledged band. They have since released a self-titled demo that
It is such a surprisingly normal answer when you compare
concentrates on Pilorget’s vocals. Their debut album is in the
the album to their other musical influences, which include
works and they are looking into possibly touring France in the
everything from Fado, Russian Folk songs, and the trip-hop
near future.
group Archive.
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The band, which consists of singer Gwenaël Pilorget,
Together they have created a sound that is uniquely theirs. To describe their music as “pop” alone does not cut it. Track
multi-instrumentalist Simon Beaumont, and bassist Etienne
upon track is full of pounding piano keys, a melancholic
Le Pelley, learn from their diverse musical mentors to bring
accordion, and to tie it all together, a trumpet. The albums
to their audiences a distinctive sound they simply classify as
are a bit of Balkan, a touch of Folk, and a hint of Hip-Hop.
“pop.” I had the opportunity to interview the members of Baïkal
With such comprehensive taste, pinpointing where their
Amour Magistral in France, with the intent of finding out what
musical talent will lead becomes difficult. “We are influenced
inspired their music.
by everything. There’s not one person band we like more,”
Twenty-year-old Simon Beaumont initially began Baïkal
Etienne says nodding at Beaumont. “His inspiration doesn’t
Amour Magistral in the confines of his home studios to combat
just come from French music. He can be inspired by the wind
boredom and create a “sadness fanfare.” The result was
or someone’s voice.” Beaumont nods staring at the floor, “I’m
his first demo Livresse des Nuages, which has since gained a
just inspired by melodies. I hear a melody in my mind and I
large following of fans around the world through YouTube.
immediately want to play it on an instrument.” After careful
Beaumont penned the lyrics, created the melodies, and played
thought, Pilorget sums up the discussion, “You have to write
all 14 instruments that include: the accordion, euphonium,
something. I understand, but we are inspired by a lot of things.
harmonica, organ, and autoharp. His band mates call him an
It’s our education, it’s our culture, and the music we listen to.”
autodidact who dedicates himself to learning new instruments
The interview ends and I am still not exactly sure what to
in the span of weeks. Le Pelley explains as he takes a drag
call their sound or who to list as their favorite artists. What I
from his cigarette, “He lives in his tiny apartment, in his tiny
do know is that Baïkal Amour Magistral does not discriminate.
room, with the windows closed, and just plays and plays these
Be it rap, disco, world or mainstream music, the band
instruments.”
members have the ability to appreciate the musician’s craft.
A year ago, Baïkal Amour Magistral could have correctly been labeled as a one-man band. Today, however, Beaumont
And with dedication, they have the ability to create something unique in the music world.
shares the song-writing process with Pilorget and Le Pelley— ex-members of the now defunct band Glass’n’T. They met after a performance one summer when Beaumont drunkenly
Becca Wilde is a student by day/writer by night from Providence, RI.
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"HE LIVES IN HIS TINY APARTMENT, IN HIS TINY ROOM, WITH THE WINDOWS CLOSED, AND JUST PLAYS AND PLAYS THESE INSTRUMENTS"
By Kellie Ferguson // Photography Daniel Arnold
HOLIDAY SHORES SUMMER LOVE
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Relaxed, joyful, warm and carefree are words that equate the
more like Georgia or South Carolina or something. It was never
quintessential feeling of Summer. These words also provide an
a factor. I grew up on the beach, but it was kind of just, weird
accurate description of the overwhelmingly sunny feeling that Holiday
timing I guess. You know, the album was recorded in winter,
Shores leaves listeners with. The band, named after their lead
and it wasn’t really something that was on our minds when we
singer’s Florida home, live up to their name with their first
worked on it.
full-length album, Columbus’d The Whim. The album playfully
FERGUSON: One of my personal favorites is the song “Edge Of
mixes an upbeat, surf-pop sound with soulful, poetic lyrics,
Our Lives.” The song is really upbeat, but behind the catchy
creating an interesting contrast that lends a haunting sound to
melody gives a haunting quality to the lyrics. What was the
the music. Holiday Shores began making a name for themselves
influence behind this song?
by touring with bands like The Morning Benders and Surfer Blood,
PEMBERTON: Yeah! It was probably one of the only songs that
and created quite a stir at CMJ in 2009. I recently had a chance
was truly about the beach. This song is kind of about like,
to discuss Holiday Shores with the lead vocalist and songwriter,
hurricanes. We had a lot of hurricanes where I grew up. We’d
Nathan Pemberton, who expresses his considerable musical
have to evacuate now and then. I have these images of driving
talent in every song with his reverberated flowing lyrics.
through really desolate towns, right before this big storm hits,
KELLIE FERGUSON: Your album Columbus’d The Whim has an
and there is this kind of creepy vibe to it. It’s really lonely and
interesting name. What exactly does it mean?
ominous. The song is just representative of that situation,.
NATHAN PEMBERTON: I guess what we were really thinking
FERGUSON: You’re about to go on tour with Tennis, right? Are
when we were putting the name together was kind of like a
you excited to be touring with them?
name about finding something, like searching for something.
PEMBERTON: Yeah, we’re getting ready to go on tour with
The name really represents pursuit, I guess. Just being in
Tennis in like, two weeks, and yeah! I think it’ll be really fun.
search of something.
I know that Tennis had come to one of our shows in Denver
FERGUSON: You’re band is comprised of roommates and
a long time ago, and we had met them there. I had kind of
friends of yours, correct? Does this create any obstacles or
forgotten about it. When they contacted us out of the blue
benefits?
and asked if we wanted to play some shows with them, and it
PEMBERTON: Yeah, it is. It’s fluctuated a lot over the last year
was totally an awesome reconnection. It was really awesome
or so, but it’s been a combination of friends and roommates
that a little shitty show in Denver had been seen by someone
and whoever can help out. Right now the lineup is pretty solid.
really cool. So I’m actually excited to be doing that. I think
It just makes it kind of a continual hangout session (laughs).
everyone is going to be expecting a really beach-pop-y show,
Which can be good and bad, I guess. But it makes for kind of
but our new record is really different versus our old one. So it’s
a good, continuous music discussion and at weird times and
going to be kind of a weird juxtaposition now between the two
different moments. It’s pretty good. We get sick of each other
bands. I think it’s going to be really fun.
after a while, but it’s not that bad.
FERGUSON: Was being in a band always a goal for you, or was
FERGUSON: Who inspires you?
this an unplanned opportunity?
PEMBERTON: I think we were, for this record we are working
PEMBERTON: It was a mixture of both. Making music is
on anyway, we were inspired a lot by probably more like 80’s
something I had done all throughout high school and college,
sounding bands, like 70’s sounding stuff. We were listening to
and then we did this record. It was kind of something we
a lot of, I don’t know, Tears For Fears. I guess Genesis—just a lot
were just going for, because, I don’t know, it’s a lot better than
of stuff like that. Yeah, so that’s inspiring, I guess.
the alternatives at the moment. It’s not like we’re just doing
FERGUSON: Your last album, Columbus’d The Whim was
this because we have no other options, it’s really just we all
compared to the lo-fi sounds of Waaves and Surfer Blood. I know
love music and we’d like to see that music become popular.
you’re originally from Florida, did that influence your beach-
So we’re trying to contribute our own touch of things to the
pop sound at all?
world, I guess.
PEMBERTON: Uh, not really, because we live on a part of
FERGUSON: How has your personal life changed since Holiday
Florida that’s not really near the beach. We live in Tallahassee,
Shores was created?
so we’re like an hour from the beach. Tallahassee is kind of
PEMBERTON: Actually, not much, at all. I get to travel a lot
chilly, and… [laughs] it’s not a typical Florida location. It feels
more, get out of the city a lot more. It’s really, that record
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didn’t change things too much, but having started working on
and rolling hills, or something we don’t really see in Florida.
another record, things have been a lot crazier lately—just a lot
It’s cool to just travel through regions, versus particular areas.
more hectic. We recorded it in Philadelphia, so now we have to
FERGUSON: Lastly, what can fans expect from Holiday Shores?
go out of town for like, two months and we went on tour with
PEMBERTON: Kind of weird pop music that will make them
The Morning Benders for a little bit, so it’s kind of been more
uncomfortable. [laughs] Ideally. I guess we changed things up a
hectic now, about a year and a half out from that last record.
little bit, so there’s a different vibe now.
It’s just picked up gradually, but no drastic changes, mostly
No matter what vibe Holiday Shores is going for, their
just normal life still.
creativity mixed with their knowledge and love of music
FERGUSON: You have toured quite a bit recently. Is there any
shines through every song they play. If their first album
place in particular that is memorable to you?
is any indication, they have a very bright future ahead of
PEMBERTON: I mean, there were tons of places that were
them. Although Holiday Shores are promising to change things
memorable on tour; they all kind of blend together, except the
up with the release of their new album, you can expect
big cities, or when you meet someone really cool in a small
something memorable. Check them out on tour with Tennis,
city. [laughs] But for the most part it’s all just billboards and
Idiot Glee, La Sera and more!
gas stations, and then spending four hours at the venue you’re playing at and it’s on to the next thing. We always love going to the Midwest, and driving through Wyoming, Montana or something where there are these gorgeous stretches, horizons
Kellie Ferguson is a student and music writer from San Diego, CA.
NOCTURNE OF EXPLODED CRYSTAL CHANDELIER SOUNDS JUST LIKE THE NAME WOULD SUGGEST: A DARK, CRASHING, GLASS SOUNDSCAPE
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By Andrew Jillson // Photography David Lichterman
SUN AIRWAY
AN EXPERIMENT IN EXPERIMENTATION
Sun Airway, a Philadelphia-based band, has a sound that mixes dark, psychedelic instrumentals with lofty pop vocals that creates wonderful synergy. The band is composed of Jon Barthmus on vocals and keys and Patrick Marsceill on the drums. Both Jon and Patrick break-up in 2008. That same year, the two teamed up to make music that departed from their usual rock music. I recently got the chance to have a conversation with Jon to talk about Sun Airway’s style and where they are heading with their sound.
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were once members of the indie band The A-Sides, before their
just experiment with that… and Sun Airway was born.” The band’s full-length debut, Nocturne of Exploded Crystal Chandelier, sounds just like the name would suggest: a dark, crashing, glass soundscape. In fact, that is almost entirely where the name of the album came from. “The name is partially taken from a piece by Ed Ruscha, called 'Exploded Crystal Chandelier Headache,'” says Barthmus. “I just really wanted something that I thought was equivalent to what the music sounds like.” Most of the tracks on Nocturne of Exploded Crystal Chandelier were demos that Barthmus had written for The A-Sides, but after they broke up, Barthmus and Marsceill used them for something far removed from the indie-rock they were intended for. Through the magic of modern technology, they took the old demos and made them sound right. Boy, did they make them sound right. From start to finish, Nocturne of Exploded Crystal Chandelier delivers such beautiful lush noise, with walls of ambient sounds that act as a backdrop for Jon’s perfect, poppy vocals. The songs that would later become Nocturne of Exploded Crystal Chandelier were conceived with a bit more grandiosity than the colder, more electric feel heard on this album. “When I was first writing them, I was envisioning having a whole symphony in there,” said Barthmus, “but the presence of an orchestra can still be heard in Sun Airway.” The closer on of the LP, “Five Years,” is a perfect example of that idea. The final track fills all the spaces with chilled ambient droning and reverbed vocals that all coalesce into a giant wall of sound. “Five Years,” like the rest of Nocturne of Exploded Crystal
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with all this electronic stuff that I’d been discovering, and
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When asked about why he switched from guitar heavy rock to the sound of Sun Airway, Jon said, “I wanted to work
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Chandelier, progresses, climaxes, and leaves you at peace. “I want to go for a higher fidelity [with Sun Airway’s next release]; most of the lo-fi-ness was purely accidental,” says Barthmus. Meaning the sound of Sun Airway isn’t fixed, and that's what
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is so enticing about having Jon Barthmus doing his own thing. “Just like everything I’ve ever done, [the next record] will probably sound different from the last one,” says Barthmus. “I
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always like to keep changing.” The sound of Nocturne of Exploded Crystal Chandelier was mostly created using Ableton Live, a highly modular sequencer that allows users to organize and access samples, effects, and virtual instruments on the fly—perfect not only for live shows, but for crafting all kinds of electronic music. Despite the fact that the album’s sound was shaped mostly through experimentation, it retains a cohesive and unified feel. Hard to believe such a unified album was not planned to sound like that from the start; every track feels so right. When asked about the next album, Barthmus said, “we’re doing the songs and the recording at the same time.” Using songs written for Sun Airway, instead of demos for The A-Sides, there should be an even greater unity of sound and spirit in the next release. One thing that can be said about Sun Airway, is that there is a definite feel to them. Even the remixes Barthmus puts out under Sun Airway’s name carry the same near-melancholy tone present in Nocturne of Exploded Crystal Chandelier. Knowing that he can imbue other musician’s works with his sound shows skill, and more importantly, style. Barthmus and Marsceill have a great way of approaching music production. With a penchant for growth, experimentation, and a style that is entirely their own, Sun Airway is definitely a fantastic new band to look out for.
Andrew Jillson is a DJ and music fanatic from Redlands, CA.
THE FINAL TRACK FILLS ALL THE SPACES WITH CHILLED AMBIENT DRONING AND REVERBED VOCALS THAT ALL COALESCE INTO A GIANT WALL OF SOUND
By Nicholas Naveda // Illustrations Chris de la Rosa
THE ONES THAT GOT AWAY FIVE NON-OSCAR NOMINATED FILMS TO SEEK OUT AND WATCH IMMEDIATELY
1. MONSTERS
It has never been cheaper to make a movie than it is right now, and the bar has certainly been raised for independent filmmakers looking to bring vast concepts to life. British filmmaker Gareth Edwards shot his science fiction
With the exception of the Sundance Film Festival, January and
monster film over the course of three weeks on location
February have been pretty unremarkable as far as movies go. With
in Mexico, Guatemala, Costa Rica and Texas with only
the first two months of the year serving more or less as a
seven crewmembers—all of whom traveled in a single van,
dumping grounds for studios, there hasn’t been much to see,
jumping out and shooting impromptu scenes with both
especially in the way of independent features.
cast members and non-actors of the various communities. Financed independently and shot on a prosumer camera,
centered on the Oscars, which aired February 27th. While
the final product is a true beast of independent, grassroots
the Academy has nominated smaller films that deserve the
filmmaking. genre. We don’t see a crash landing, or mayhem unleashing
office successes like The King’s Speech and True Grit. Certainly,
on everyday civilians. We don’t get to see how our main
these are wonderfully crafted films and are deserving of
characters lived before the crash landing. It’s just not
the international notice, but the awards season fever has a
there. But we do know that something has happened. A
way of shutting out other films that are also deserving of the
NASA deep-space probe has crashed in Mexico and now the
attention.
entire northern region has become quarantined. Instead
Derek Cianfrance’s Blue Valentine, an unflinchingly honest
of spending the first twenty minutes showing us how this
and beautiful relationship drama, managed to get left out of
happened, Edwards throws us in the thick of things, a place
the Academy’s top ten list for Best Picture, despite the fact
where people are living with these creatures. The film is
that it was one of the year’s best. Michelle Williams garnered
centered on Andrew (Scoot McNairy of the amazing In Search
a nod in the Best Actress category, but Ryan Gosling was
of a Midnight Kiss), an American photojournalist, who is hired
oddly left out, even though he gave an equally unforgettable
by his boss to bring his daughter, Samantha (Whitney Able),
performance that can probably be considered a career best.
back to the United States where she is to be married to a
John Cameron Mitchell’s Rabbit Hole somehow got left out
man she seems to be having second thoughts about. Their
of the mix as well, even though it was easily one of the most
relationship forms from there and stays at the forefront as
unshakable and superbly made dramas of the year. Nicole
they travel across a quarantined northern Mexico.
Kidman also received the nod in the Best Actress category,
This is a huge monster film that exists on a very human
but the film as a whole deserves much more recognition. The
level. It’s been said that for a film with the title Monsters it
writing, directing and performances are all genuine, raw and
certainly doesn’t showcase much monster-ing or rapid-fire
netted perfectly into what was one of the best pictures of
destruction that is characteristic of the genre, which is
2010.
exactly what makes this film such a nuanced achievement.
Those films were lucky enough to get the Academy’s
It is through the eyes of Samantha and Andrew that we
recognition, but what about those that got completely
are able to see the destruction on an individual level, as
disregarded in all categories? Most of the films that get left
people struggling with life after monsters is commonplace
out are small and never get to enjoy a lengthy wide release.
in their environment. We rarely ever see the monsters,
They’re not huge money-makers and they don’t have the
but when we do it pays off in a big way. Edwards really
budgets to compete. And sadly, they get lost and left behind
shows us something fresh and exciting. Most of the tension
in the midst of media exclusion and extensive campaigning
comes from the incredible sound design and beautiful
by other pictures vying for the top prize. Want to learn more
cinematography. Surely monsters have a brooding presence,
about a few of the truly remarkable films that got overlooked
but they take backseat to a story that is more interested in
in 2010? Here are five must-see pictures that aren’t in the
exploring devastated humanity and a curiously interwoven
running for the elusive golden statue.
analysis of our view of outsiders. Gareth Edwards’ luminous achievement in guerilla filmmaking is profoundly moving and visually stunning, putting to shame most big-budget blockbusters that share its genre. Monsters is, in fact, a
Nicholas Naveda is a screenwriter, filmmaker and short nonfiction writer from the Los Angeles area.
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Monsters doesn’t bother with the typical exposition of its
the majority of low-budget films get left in the cold by box
milestone for independent film of this generation.
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recognition, such as The Kids Are All Right and Winter’s Bone,
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As usual, the main focus of the last month or so has been
2. CYRUS
When I first caught Cyrus at the Los Angeles Film Festival last summer, I was completely enamored by independent filmmakers Mark and Jay Duplass’ third effort. The microbudgeted duo already boasts an impressive first two films, The Puffy Chair and Baghead, both of which were made with very little money and have been touted as landmarks within the Mumblecore movement of independent cinema, a name that the filmmakers have probably grown to resent. Call it
3. TINY FURNITURE
what you wish, but the Duplass Brothers make intelligent and
New York-based filmmaker Lena Dunham is a force to be
honest human comedies unlike anything else out there right
reckoned with. Her second feature film Tiny Furniture was
now. Cyrus was their first venture into studio territory after
impressively shot on the consumer-grade Canon 7D and in
having set the film up at the indie-friendly Fox Searchlight.
her own family’s New York loft. In fact, her real-life mother
Leading character John (John C. Reilly) is lonely, divorced,
and sister play her fictional mother and sister. The film
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aimless and in search of connection. His ex-wife (Catherine
earned her not only the Best Feature award at the South by
Keener) tries to be his biggest cheerleader by getting him out
Southwest Film Festival in 2010, but it earned her recognition
of his house and into the world. She convinces him to come
from comedy writer/director/producer-extraordinaire Judd
out to a party where he meets Molly (Marisa Tomei) and they
Apatow, who is currently producing a Showtime series that
immediately hit it off. For a few days everything seems to be
Dunham is going to write and direct. All in all, Lena Dunham
going well until John finds out that Molly has a twenty-two
owns an incredible low-budget success story that undeniably
year old son named Cyrus (Jonah Hill), who lives with her and
gives inspiration to all independent filmmakers living in
isn’t quite ready to let his mom date another man. Hilarity
obscurity.
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and awkwardness ensues. Mark and Jay Duplass have an incredibly specific method.
Tiny Furniture tells the story of Aura, a character that seems to specifically mirror Dunham herself. She has
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They improvise every scene to not only land better laughs
recently graduated from a liberal arts college in the
that feel natural, but to achieve authenticity and depth on a
Midwest and returns to her mother’s Tribeca loft where
dramatic level. It’s been said that the filmmakers will shoot
she reconnects with old friends, engages in two dead-end
hours of improvised conversation, only to piece it together
relationships, and struggles to find direction in her life.
later in the editing room where the film really comes alive.
Thematically speaking, it’s like The Graduate for the YouTube
They’re completely fine with the story taking a different
generation. While this film won’t become an icon for this
direction, as long as they’re staying true to the characters.
generation as Nichols did for previous generations, Dunham
Surely, Fox Searchlight must have been made nervous by
has proven herself to be a unique and unflinchingly honest
their consistent close-ups, closed sets and improvised shoots,
new voice in film and television.
but it’s what they do. It’s their style, and it works. Cyrus is a
Dunham recently gave a Q&A after her film played at the
fine example of what a romantic comedy should do and this
Nuart Theater in Los Angeles. A lot of audience members
is because of the Duplass brother’s offbeat sensibilities as
were asking about the connection the film has to her real life.
filmmakers who continue writing even during the shoot.
Surely, her mother and sister were just playing characters,
It’s a curious love triangle of sorts about people who all
but the overall aimlessness and confusion in the face of
want to be loved and feel a sense of belonging, and how each
a “post-graduate delirium” came from a very real place.
of their needs get in the way of this being achieved. What’s
Without doubt, it’s a confessional piece of work. When
really remarkable about this film (and the filmmaker’s other
an audience member asked about the scene where Aura’s
films as well) is that the story relies heavily on fleshed out
character has cold, lifeless sex in an abandoned metal tube,
characters with real problems and a story that unfolds
she simply replied by saying that well, you hear things,
in ways that are true to life. The romance, frustration,
you do things. Dunham’s refreshing personal candidness
desperation and awkwardness feel authentic. Nothing is ever
materializes in her film through characters that are genuine
forced. As usual from the brothers, this film is a true slice of
and human. Tiny Furniture is a deftly written and visually
life that leads up to an honest and poignant climax. At one
impressive film of female empowerment that aims to capture
point, John vulnerably asks Molly, “is it weird for me to say
the multi-layered troubles of living in this generation by
that I just want things to work out?” No, John. It’s not. You’re
offering unique insight into the mind of an imperfect young
one of us, and we can feel it. The Duplass brothers are 3/3
woman who is just trying to find her way. This is a profound
and this was one of the best films of 2010.
documentation of the now and it needs to be seen, even if it didn’t receive wide distribution. Seek it out.
5. GREENBERG
Noah Baumbach is easily one of the most interesting—if not one of the best—filmmakers working today. After a few years of general obscurity, the director returned to the chair with the contemporary classic The Squid and the Whale. He then followed it up with the excellent and wildly underrated Margot at the Wedding. With these two films the writer/director solidified himself as a master analyst of American domestic life. While there were initially a lot of uncertainties regarding the casting of Ben Stiller, Greenberg is in fact another perfect entry to his astoundingly honest and perceptive filmography.
a second shot at who he could have been, he’s decided to
impressive body of work featuring performances that are
do nothing—which pretty much gets us up to speed with
equally hilarious and poignant, it is clear that Murray is one
Baumbach’s titled character. He’s house-sitting for his
of the great American actors living today. He’s notorious
brother’s family and has promised to build them a doghouse
for brilliant improvisation (which pretty much made Lost in
while they’re on vacation. When the dog falls ill Greenberg
Translation) and nuanced performances that often steal every
is forced to take care of him and follow a strict medication
single scene. Let’s face it, the man is a national treasure.
regiment. And despite not wanting to “do anything” he
However, for the first time in many, many years, Bill Murray
manages to form a somewhat romantic and emotionally
has been outshined in Aaron Schneider’s 2009 Toronto
abusive relationship with his brother’s assistant, Florence,
International Film Festival hit, Get Low.
played tenderly by the always-amazing Greta Gerwig.
Robert Duvall gives an Academy Award-worthy
Through his time spent doing “nothing” and reconnecting
performance as Felix Bush, a town hermit with an unsettling
with old friends, Greenberg is forced to see himself as he is –
secret. He lives alone in the woods and his life has becoming
the soul reason for everything that has gone wrong in his life.
nothing but a series of rumors passed down by townspeople.
“What do people say about me when I’m not around?”
Perhaps he’s killed a few, or runs with devil worshippers.
Greenberg asks at one point in the film. We’ve all wondered
Everyone has his or her theory. However, the town is taken
it. It’s in the back of our minds. But for Greenberg this is a
aback when Felix emerges from his secluded house to plan
gateway to understanding why he’s forty years old and still
his own funeral—an event he plans on personally attending
has not one meaningful relationship. He’s a vile human being
and utilizing to share why he has been so reclusive all of
for the most part and it’s hard to imagine why Florence would
these years. Quinn (Murray) owns the town funeral parlor
want to spend time with him. He does nothing but complain
and agrees to plan the unconventional funeral because his
about others and spends his time writing letters of criticism
business is in dire need of the money. As promised, the whole
to various companies such as Starbucks and Hollywood Pet Taxi.
event becomes a tragic spectacle.
No one would want to hang out with this guy, yet Baumbach
You won’t be able to shake this film. Robert Duvall’s
clearly has a sensitivity for this kind of deeply flawed person,
performance is a haunting transformation that stays with
as also shown in his previous films. It’s been said that a film
you. In fact, it’s one of his best, which is saying quite a bit
doesn’t work unless the writer gives the audience a reason
considering his impressive body of work. The back-and-forth
to root for the protagonist right off the bat, but Baumbach
between Felix and Quinn provides the film with a good deal
doesn’t follow this template. Stiller’s Greenberg is unbearable
of laughs. However, it’s all setup. Everything strange about
for most of the film, but as the story unfolds we are able to
this man and the relationships he has with the people of the
see why he is the way he is: a deceased mother, misguided
past ultimately sets up the climatic funeral scene, which is
youth, an insensitive and emotionally abusive brother, etc.
without a doubt one of the most powerful movie moments of
It’s these brief glimpses into his troubled life that allows
the year. For the first time Felix stands in front of his fellow
for the pathos to expand and subtly come to the forefront.
community members and expresses what he has kept hidden
It slowly creeps through and consumes. This bold writing
for far too long. The result is shocking, difficult to watch, and
choice throws convention to the wind and aims to paint
sweetly rewarding. This is one of the most moving films of
a portrait of someone we all know, or perhaps someone
the year, but it seems that no one saw it. In any case, while
lurking within us. Greenberg is certainly one of Baumbach’s
Murray offers another gem performance, this is Duvall’s
finest scripts and it confidently carries the weight of Stiller’s
film from beginning to end. Aaron Schneider, who wrote and
performance, which is a phenomenal career highlight for the
directed the picture, is unarguably a filmmaker on the rise.
well-known funnyman.
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and future success. Instead of rebuilding his life and taking
is born. That seems to be the trend lately. With such an
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somehow he managed to squander away all of his talents
Another year, another classic Bill Murray performance
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4. GET LOW
Roger Greenberg (Ben Stiller) is kind of like that one guy we’ve all known. At one time he had a lot going for him, but
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AND SO IT BEGINS.
HOMME I N K H o m m e p re s e nt s
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CONTENTS
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EDITORIALS 120 // Ignore My Disguise 123 // Murmur
126 AFTER THE LAST NIGHT OF WINTER
126 // After The Last Night of Winter
This Spring go light, or go home.
152 // It Takes Two
136 // Beach Blonde 142 // The Boys of London
158 // Je Suis Comme Je Suis
158 JE SUIS COMME JE SUIS
166 // Shop INK
ON THE COVER
Sophisticated suits and vintage shirts
Photography by Halldora and Bryan
on a quietly masculine model are the
Modeled by James Cox, Jordan Marthynus,
perfect closer for INK Homme Preview.
James G and Ollie, all @ AMCK Models, London
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DEAR READERS, It is with great excitement and pleasure that I announce the preview
We were also intrigued by the leopard prints we saw at
issue of the newest addition to the INK Magazine family, INK Homme!
Givenchy this season, and went with a similarly bold look for
This is INK's monthly supplement devoted entirely to all
the cover. It's a fresh look for a fresh new extension of INK
things menswear. Ours was a daring task when it came to
Magazine. We hope you're intrigued!
fabricating an entirely new publication, but it was clear long ago that we needed to open up and broaden our readership by
Keep Creating,
providing an outlet showcasing men's fashion. When it came to deciding if INK Magazine and INK Homme would be printed and displayed in two separate editions, the answer was an easy no. We know that there are many women who enjoy menswear, and vice-versa, and wanted to cater to both. We hope to provide a broader fashion experience to all of you, our valued readers. For March 2011, the official preview issue and the beginning of the S/S 2011 season, we simply wanted to give you a taste of what's to come with INK Homme. It's a work in progress, and we're excited about that! Starting next issue it will go full-fledged, with in-depth articles, interviews, and reviews of everything from menswear designers to cool kicks. For now, though, fashion editorials take center stage. We made sure our pages reflected the crisp white and minimal detailing of the runway. Clean cuts and a neutral color palette are king.
John Troxel // Editor in Chief
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FROM THE EDITOR
IGNORE MY DISGUISE AUTUMN'S ORANGE CARRIES INTO SPRING. PHOTOGRAPHY BY GRANT HEINLEIN. MODELED BY GRANT HEINLEIN
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LIGHT GREY AND WHITE LAYERS INSPIRE A NEW LOOK FOR SPRING: GO FRESH, CLEAN AND SIMPLE
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MURMUR
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Robert Starks // Models Paul and Fedja @ Chosen
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Photography Petra Ford // Hair Ryan Burrell // Makeup
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AFTER THE LAST NIGHT OF WINTER
PHOTGRAPHY BY BECKY XUE-YING. STYLING BY CHARLIE BLAND AND OLIVIA ANDERTON. MODELED BY ADAM, ETIENNE, RYAN AND VASLEV, ALL @ OXYGEN MODEL MANAGEMENT
m a rch 2011 page 127 inkm agonline.com this and that page: on adam, coat burton shirt topman on ryan, jumper beyond retro shirt american apparel belt burton jeans lee on etienne, coat forgotten future trousers merc
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m a rch 2011 page 129 inkm agonline.com this and that page: on ryan, shirt wrangler undershirt american apparel jeans lee shoes aldo on etienne, shirt oliver spencer undershirt merc jeans topman shoes aldo on vaslov, shirt american apparel trousers american apparel
inkm agonline.com page 130 m a rch 2011 this page: jacket forgotten future shirt american apparel jeans topman shoes skive that page, from left: on ryan, jumper beyond retro shirt american apparel jeans lee shoes aldo watch firetrap on vaslov, jumper beyond retro shirt lee jeans lee on etienne, coat forgotten future shirt topman trousers merc shoes lacoste on adam (crouching), coat burton shirt topman trousers topman shoes skive
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inkm agonline.com page 132 m a rch 2011 this and that page: on ryan, jacket firetrap cardigan burton shirt firetrap jeans lee on adam, jacket merc shirt beyond retro jeans topman on etienne, jacket beyond retro shirt oliver spencer trousers merc
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PHOTOGRAPHY BY VALERIA CHERCHI. STYLING AND MAKEUP BY JESS WU. MODELED BY ELLIOTT MACKIE
BEACH BLONDE
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THE BOYS OF LONDON
PHOTOGRAPHY BY HALLDORA AND BRYAN. MODELED BY JAMES COX, JORDAN MARTHYNUS, JAMES G AND OLLIE, ALL @ AMCK MODELS, LONDON
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inkm agonline.com page 150 m a rch 2011 ink does not endorse smoking. it is hazardous to health and illegal underage.
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IT TAKES TWO PHOTOGRAPHY BY PHEN MAS. STYLING BY CAT WRIGHT. HAIR BY SIENREE. MAKEUP BY Leibi Carias. MODELED BY SEAN ROBINSON @ NO TIES AND MIKE ROSE @ PHOTOGENICS
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button-up vintage yves saint laurent from haunter gatherer two-piece suit vintage from haunter gatherer pants vintage from haunter gatherer tie vintage from haunter gatherer shoes vintage from haunter gatherer
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PHOTOGRAPHY BY MICAELA HOO. STYLING BY ALIX JIANG. HAIR AND MAKEUP BY NORMAN GOLCHEHREH. MODELED BY ROBB @ JE MODEL
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JE SUIS COMME JE SUIS
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m a rch 2011 page 161 inkm agonline.com button-up vintage yves saint laurent from haunter gatherer two-piece suit vintage from haunter gatherer pants vintage from haunter gatherer tie vintage from haunter gatherer shoes vintage from haunter gatherer
inkm agonline.com page 162 m a rch 2011 this page: shirt mister, san francisco cardigan vintage from no, san francisco pants vintage naked & famous from no, san francisco belt marc jacobs shoes vintage from haunter gatherer that page: shirt vintage from malin landeaus, brooklyn, nyc coat vintage christian dior from no, san francisco pants vintage yves saint laurent from no, san francisco boots vintage from no, san francisco scarf oak nyc briefcase vintage from cobblestones, manhattan, nyc
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m a rch 2011 page 165 inkm agonline.com button-up vintage yves saint laurent from haunter gatherer two-piece suit vintage from haunter gatherer pants vintage from haunter gatherer tie vintage from haunter gatherer shoes vintage from haunter gatherer
Forgotten Future
Mister
6126
Friend of Mine
Misty Greer
A.P.C.
G-star
Monki
Acne
Gap
Motif 56 Naked & Famous
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Akira
Garner Grace
Akira Black Label
Gorman
Nathan Smith
Aldo
Gravity Pope Tailored Goods
Neuw Mustard
Alexis Bittar
Guess
NO (San Francisco)
Ali Ro
H&M
OAK, NYC
American Apparel
Halston
Obakki
Anastasia Chatzka
Haunter Gatherer
Oliver Spencer
Armani Exchange
Helmut Lang
Opening Ceremony
Betsey Johnson
Holt Renfrew
Peeps
Beyond Retro
House of Harlow
Pelican Avenue Peter Jensen
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Born
House of Harlow 1960
Burton
Isabel Marant
Phillip Lim
Calvin Klein
Jean Paul Gaultier
Poetic License
Carven
Jeffrey Campbell
Polli
Caterine Sanchez
Jenni Kayne
Quicksilver
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Chloe
Jil Kacic
Rag & Bone
Chloe Sevigny for Opening
John Troxel
Roberto Cavalli Sam Edelman
Ceremony
Journelle
Crystal Jin
Katrina Muller
See by Chloe
Cusp
La Rok
Spanish Moss Vintage
Dalina (dalina.etsy.com)
Lacoste
Topman
Diane von Furstenberg
Lee
Topshop
Doc Martin's
Levi's
Trunk Show by Misty Greer
Dollhouse
Lion in Love
Twinkle by Wenlen
Doma
Maison Martin Margiela
Victoria McBride
Down Yonder
Mango Tree Bangles
Walter Steiger
Eugenia Kim
Marc Andrew
Wesley Nault
Express
Marc Jacobs
Winter Kate
Ferragamo
Marc by Marc
Wrangler
Firetrap
Maurie & Eve
Yves St Laurent
Foley & Karina
Melissa
Zappos
Forever 21
Mintage
Zara
Please contact us with inquires about any of the clothing or designers featured in this issue // inkmagemail@gmail.com
photography by chloe scheffe. clothing by isaiah whitmore of house of isaac andrew. modeled by tiffany parente connors
SHOP MARCH 2011 3.1 Phillip Lim
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HOMME I N K H o m m e p re s e nt s
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