Issue no. 10

Page 1


Photograph Elmer Amurao Magallanes Jr.

Dear IN Crowd, Whilst bidding the excesses of summer farewell, we watch on as the Fall nods in cooler weather and with it a brand new season. Many of our readers located in the desert Gulf states will be relieved to finally see the back of the sweltering heat… and as for the rest of us, it’s a slap on the face. The Fall introduces shortened days, added difficulty waking up in the morning, and office hours ending in the dark of night.

EDITOR’S

LETTER

As the leaves in Europe fall and the Yanks give their annual thanks, the society types of the Middle East are doing what they do best. Getting out on scene with the singular aim of being seen… by the largest number of mortals humanly possible. Ah yes… along came Fall. Never a dull moment for the peeps whose name finds itself on a mailing list, along with those oh-so-fabulous darlings who attend the very opening of an envelope. You see, it’s a magical whirlwind affair, which throws one from art fair to fashion show, from store launch to charity gala. A riveting cycle comprised only of the ultimate expert… some of whom can be anything from gym-health-steroid freak, to art connoisseur and modelcum-designer, all in one! Wow. Whether it’s on home-turf or travel, life is good… always, and forever. When they do escape the Middle East-branded cocoon to experience something a little more ‘raw,’ our super-humans travel far and wide. If their base is not Lebanon and regional travel is the order of the day, Beirut is so the place to be. The shopping is ah-mazing, the clubs are outrageous and of course there is always time for quick filler. This summer the celebrated boys with washboard-abs in tow were seen gracing the beach parties of Ibiza, Mykonos and Oh EM GEE! … Not forgetting Barcelona. The girls, on the other hand tend to exercise a little more discretion, with only the occasional pouty mention of St. Tropez appearing on our news feed. Our sister has so made it. And with the chilly season now approaching, our peers will eagerly update us on the current status on the metropolises of New York, Milan, Paris and the lowdown on the obligatory visit to London’s Knightsbridge. These fabulous super-human species live only the most perfect of lives. Never a bad day in sight, for the general feel is that such days are practically politically incorrect… always happy, always on it, always IN - all the time. Whether it’s Facebook, the paparazzi pages of a glossy mag or Twitter – everyone is always trying to be everywhere and doing everything, all in an attempt to conform to society’s idea of perfection. Human nature dictates that at some stage we want it all. We just can’t miss out. The IN Magazine team members have joined forces to adopt take this state of being, define it and apply it to a variety of areas affecting our society at large. This issue delves into the ‘Fear of Missing Out’ and translates the theme throughout, with a number of pieces such as The Clone Zone and The Mating Game. A.K.A The #FOMO Issue. We kick off with everything that speaks contemporary fashion. Tamara Mellon talks to us about life after Jimmy Choo, legendary Dubai-based designer Essa Walla catches up for a quirky shoot and quick gossip, with Lebanon’s latest star couturier in the making Rami Kadi sitting down to tell us exactly how great heights are achieved. We explore Louis Vuitton’s collaboration with Yayoi Kusama and introduce fashion PR mogul Tara Sillery to our readers. Issue 10 gives us more photo stories than ever before; produced internationally they range from both fashion editorial with a twist, to fully embracing the art of conceptual photography. IN.Focus details the long-standing relationship between Jaeger LeCoultre and the cinema. IN.Arts takes you on a journey through everything from Lebanese film-making, to Beirut’s contemporary street art, and from London-based pop musician Jeyjon to Dubai’s popular Art Nights event. Last but not least is our sensual cover shoot, featuring girl-of-the-moment Maya Diab. In a frank interview the ex-FourCats singer and diva extraordinaire, IN Magazine discovers her passions, rise to fame and plans for the future. Bigger and better than ever, this issue seeks to feed your inner FOMO syndrome. From all of us, to all of you… presenting, the #FOMO Issue. Happy Tweeting.

Ahmed R. Abou Naja IN

10 |

FALL/WINTER 2012



IN.SIDE IN.NEWS

IN.SHOOTS

12 JUST IN BREAKING STORIES

86 IF MY QUEEN HAD A HEART 100 CLASH OF THE TITANS 112 SHADES OF BEAUTY 122 PRIVATE LAWNS 136 KALEIDOSCOPE 148 GLAMOUR SUPREME 154 PUPPET WARP

IN.FASHION 20 THOMAS PINK AUTUMN/WINTER 2012 28 RALPH RUCCI AMERICA’S BEST KEPT SECRET 34 ESSA WALLA ART FASHION AND UNNECESSARY TANTRUMS 48 THE INNOCENCE AND INSANITY OF POLKA-DOTS YAYOI KUSAMA AND LOUIS VUITTON COLLABORATE 50 ANNA PIAGGI THE EXUBERANT & ECLECTIC FLAIR OF A STYLE ICON 52 RAMI KADI GIVING FASHION A NEW FACE 58 TARA SILLERY THE REGION’S FASHION AND ART PR EMPRESS 68 CHANGING SHOES TAMARA MELLON LEAVES JIMMY CHOO 80 THE ARABIAN ALLURE

IN.FOCUS 166 THE FOMO SYNDROME 168 LOUIS VUITTON LOVES INDIA UPRISINGS & REVOLUTIONS 176 THE MATING GAME 178 EVERYBODY LOVES ELIZABETH 182 THE CLONE ZONE 184 JAEGER-LECOULTRE 186 A CAUSE PAINTED RED 188 KEEP CALM CAUSE YOLO

IN.FEATURE 190 MAYA DIAB LAID BARE

IN.ARTS 202 LIGHT FROM THE MIDDLE EAST NEW PHOTOGRAPHY AT THE V&A AND THE BRITISH MUSEUM

204 WHITE WALL BEIRUT AN ODE TO STREET ART AND GRAFFITI 206 FLAMBOYANCE IS AN UNDERSTATEMENT THE FLASHY MUSICAL EXUBERANCE OF JEYJON 210 STARRING JULIA A FOURTEEN-MINUTE MESSAGE TO THE SOUL 214 ART NIGHTS AT GATE VILLAGE

IN.DESIGN 216 BVLGARI INSTALLATION BY NANA DAZZLES AT ABU DHABI ART FAIR 218 RANA SALAM MARRYING MIDDLE EAST DESIGN AND CULTURE WITH THE WORLD

IN.LOCATION 220 CORINTHIA HOTEL LONDON HISTORIC ROMANCE AND CONTEMPORARY LUXURY

IN.TALKS 228 DD FOX THE HOUSE R&B SIREN 234 THE MANY FACES OF BAREFACE


154 48

228

112

20

216

86 148

100

204


IN.NEWS

YVES SAINT LAURENT THE STOLEN TREASURE Yves Saint Laurent’s former lover and business partner Pierre Bergé has claimed that a collection of about 290 sketches, a journal, and a portrait of Saint Laurent’s mother were all stolen from the Paris apartment he shared with Saint Laurent. Also involved in the mystery is Saint Laurent’s former lover Fabrice Thomas. Digital images of some of what appeared to be YSL-signed erotic sketches first appeared in New York in late August. Sascha Welchering, director of sales at the Wentrup gallery in Berlin, showed them to the media. At that time, there was talk of organizing a show at Chrystoph Marten’s salon and gallery. Marten served as editorial director at Vidal Sassoon in New York before he opened his own West 25th Street salon in the heart of West Chelsea’s art scene. Ludwig Geiger, a Swiss-based representative for the man who claims to be the collection’s current owner, declined to identify that individual. As a “trustee and friend” of the unnamed owner, Geiger said he not only knows all the background but has seen the “sworn and legalized documents” that transferred ownership from Thomas to the new owner. After Thomas and Saint Laurent split up in the early Nineties, this European businessman gave Thomas “a job, a car and a new life,” Geiger said. Thomas, in turn, gave the

IN

14 |

FALL/WINTER 2012

portfolio to his new friend “part gift, part sold,” though he declined to give the financial details of that exchange. Insisting that the exchange of ownership of the collection is legal, fully documented and notarized, Geiger said, “Nothing is stolen, as Mr. Bergé likes to say.” Bergé, not surprisingly, has a good deal to say about the matter. Bergé believes the sketches were stolen from the designer’s Paris apartment and that a police report has been filed. Bergé said it was out of the question that Saint Laurent would have given so many illustrations to one person. “Believe me, it would have been impossible for Yves to have given someone 300 sketches. Maybe one or two, but 300? Surely not,” Bergé said. “The point is, they were stolen.”


ESTÉE LAUDER BREAST CANCER RESEARCH FOUNDATION PARTNERS The Breast Cancer Research Foundation is teaming up with the Estée Lauder Cos. to commemmorate the corporation’s 20th annual Breast Cancer Awareness campaign. This also marks the one year anniversary of the passing of Evelyn H. Lauder, the company’s founder. The BCA has used social media this year to amp up its campaign, utilising outlets such as Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, Viddy, and Tumblr. Jim Nevins, senior vice president and global creative director for Clinique has developed a new brand visual, with an image by patrick Shaw. In a rare video that will be used at press events world wide, Lauder says, “[About] 44,000 women were dying from breast cancer every year, and no one was talking about it. Once you know something has to be done, you have to do it. If you don’t do it, it’s a sin.” Carrying on in her legacy is her son William Lauder, executive chairman of the Estée Lauder Cos., who said, “The BCA campaign is one of the most important things we do as a company that is not related to selling and marketing our product.” Over the years, the BCA has raised $35 million in North America through proceeds collected from the sale of merchandise, which was directly donated to the BCRF. Since its founding in 1993, the BCRF has raised $380 million for cancer research. This year, fifteen of the corporation’s brands are participating in the campaign with products like an Estée Lauder enameled compact with a blush shade dubbed Evelyn’s Dream; an Origins Make a Difference skin rejuvenating treatment; a bright pink Smashbox Be Legendary lipstick in Inspiration; a Clinique Pink With a Purpose Chubby Stick Moisturizing lip color, and a Bobbi Brown Pink Peony Set, with a Pink Peony Illuminating Bronzer and Mini Blender Brush.

TORY BURCH FIRES BACK Christopher Burch filed a lawsuit against his former wife, designer Tory Burch, in a battle over their businesses. Christopher had been attempting for a quite a while now to sell his stake in the company, but was stopped by Tory’s camp. Christopher is also suing his wife and her namesake company for interference with his business relationships with suppliers. The couple had been meeting with each other in a business setting in attempts to settle their differences before a deadline that would end the process of selling Tory Burch the company. “Mr. Burch’s efforts proved unsuccessful because the constantly evolving concessions demanded by Tory Burch were simply too outrageous and appeared designed to cripple C. Wonder’s business,” the lawsuit charged. At one point, Burch suggested a neutral mediator assist with the negotiations, but realized a lawsuit was required when Tory Burch the company “would not even commit to mediation,” court papers said. Tory Burch Files Counterclaims Against Chris Burch Suit. The designer is claiming breach of fiduciary duty, breach of contract, misappropriation of trade secrets and deceptive trade practices.


IN.NEWS

LEVEL SHOE DISTRICT A shoe-shopping addiction is a serious matter, not to be disregarded or taken lightly. The people at The Dubai Mall are well aware of that, and to encourage therapy through satisfying every possible shoe obsession, shoe dream, and shoe fetish, they have developed Level Shoe District, a unique concept store dedicated solely to shoes. A collection of international designers covers 96,000 square feet featuring the latest trends making it the world’s largest selection of women’s and men’s shoes under one roof. The ultimate in shoe therapy awaits customers at Level Shoe District. The store brings together four distinct multibrand areas: Women’s Designer, Women’s Contemporary, Men’s and Trends as well as 40 carefully selected designer boutiques with the main anchor being Louis Vuitton. Roger Vivier will also find a home at Level Shoe District and will open with its first boutique in the region. The exclusive luxury men’s designer brand Berluti anchors the men’s offering. Amongst the 40 designer boutiques, shoppers can look forward to the latest collections from Chanel, Dior, Dolce & Gabbana, Fendi, Gucci, Miu Miu, Prada, Paul Smith, Ralph Lauren, Saint Laurent, Sergio Rossi, Stuart Weitzman, Tod’s, Valentino, Giuseppe Zanotti and more. Working with SHED, a London-based interior architecture and design agency, whose former clients include luxury brands Vertu, Spencer Hart and Harrods of London, the concept-driven Level Shoe District pays homage to the design firm’s passion for delivering vibrant, progressive and, above all, unique retail experiences. Patrons of The Cobbler, situated beside level Shoe District’s VIP lounge for men, collect only the most beautifully made shoes. A purveyor of luxury men’s shoes from England, The Cobbler also offers traditional craftsmanship in the form of bespoke footwear, from dress shoes and oxfords to casual pairs. The Vogue brand is synonymous with cutting-edge fashion the world over, and as part of the brand expansion; Vogue Café has found its first home in the region within Level Shoe District and yet to be opened. Launching for the first time out of London and into Level Shoe District is the Sole Lounge by Margaret Dabbs. The celebrity favorite, renowned foot specialist is taking her expertise and bringing her professional podiatrists and nail technicians to offer first class sole therapies.

IN

16 |

FALL/WINTER 2012


KENNETH COLE

GOES PUBLIC Kenneth Cole took his company private in the American stock market, for $15.25 a share, giving the firm an enterprise value of about $245 million.“As a public company, you’re not encouraged to work on your Plan B scenario until that scenario comes to be,” Cole said of the move. “Everything you discuss is of public record. We’re going to work now to more clearly lay out and articulate what this company can look like and how we can be more efficient and productive as a private company.”

Cole is now focusing more on the digital market to expand his consumer base. Kenneth Cole Collection, a higher-end men’s

and women’s sportswear line launched this year, aiming to get his message across to the world. “It’s a new chapter, but it’s an exciting one and these are exciting times,” Cole said. “The whole world seems to be changing as we speak, and there are new ways of doing business and there are new ways to connect with audiences and consumers.” Cole, who owned 46% of his company was given total control of the company when shareholders signed off on a deal that gave him that authority. Although Cole has partners in the deal, he said that most of the money for the buyout was his own.

CHANEL NO. 5

BRAD PITT Brad Pitt is the first male celebrity to endorse a women’s fragrance, namely the legendary Chanel No.5. Pitt will be following in the female footsteps of previous faces of the fragrance like Ali MacGraw, Catherine Deneuve and Candice Bergen to Nicole Kidman, Audrey Tautou and Vanessa Paradis.

Andrea d’Avack, president, Chanel Fragrance & Beauty said, “It is the first time we’ve had a man speaking about a women’s fragrance. We think very much that the perfume is a seduction between a man, a woman and the perfume. No.5 is our leading fragrance, and we are willing to make the investment to keep it on that level.” The commercial was shot by Joe Wright, who has worked with Chanel since 2006 and has directed several Coco Mademoiselle commercials with Keira Knightley. The Pitt commercial is launched globally on October 15, while the print ad is expected to begin appearing in November fashion, beauty and lifestyle magazines.

ROBERTO CAVALLI

SETS LAUNCH FOR SECOND FRAGRANCE Roberto Cavalli hopes to take a bite out of the prestige fragrance category this spring with his second fragrance with Coty, Just Cavalli. “Fragrance is important to me because it completes my fashion,” said Cavalli “Every woman should have my dress, and every woman needs a Cavalli perfume.” With a Facebook application dubbed “I Bite You” and plans to distribute temporary scented tattoos of a snake bite, the scent is obviously not tame. It will launch globally in February. The bottle is of pink glass and gold-toned metal with the juice showing through the Just Cavalli logo. A pink python-skin collar is wrapped around the top of the bottle, while the Just Cavalli bite logo is embossed on the top of the cap. The outer packaging is of pink python-textured paper with gold metallic accents. TV and print advertising are planned, featuring Georgia May Jagger. TV was directed by Jonas Akerlund, while print was done by Mario Sorrenti. “It’s a seduction from beginning to end,” said Jagger of the campaign, which was shot in Manhattan. “It’s a chase.”

FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

17


MICHAEL KORS

KIMBERLY MCDONALD

GUESS DIOR

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

TORY BURCH

YVES SAINT LAURENT VIKTOR & ROLF

VERA WANG

KENNETH COLE

REECE HUDSON

IN TRENDS Shell Check Fall 2012 Tortoiseshell effects are coming out of hiding for fall, cropping up on the requisite sunglasses, as well as shoes, bags and baubles. Tory Burch’s embossed leather and resin bag, Guess’ gold-hinged bangle with acrylic crystal accents, Viktor & Rolf’s patent leather boots, and Reece Hudson’s acrylic bag.

IN

18 |

FALL/WINTER 2012

DRIES VAN NOTEN


DOLCE & GABBANA

ORLA KIELY

DIANE VON FURSTENBERG

CREATURES OF THE WIND GREGORY PARKINSON

ALICE & OLIVIA

NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD

OSCAR DE LA RENTA

JASON WU

Brocade or Bust 2012 Collection Whoever said opulence is IN hasn’t seen the pileup of gleaming brocades for fall.

FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

19


PIERRE HARDY

RENE JIMMY CHOO

SERGIO ROSSI

ALESSANDRO OTERI

BURAK UYAN

Women’s Fur Boots Fur boots for fall feature lavish astrakhan and plenty of fox. One thing is for sure: These bold-colored boots are not for the faint of heart.

IN

20 |

FALL/WINTER 2012

APERLAI


Above Puffer Jacket by Emilio Pucci

FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

21


IN.FASHION

IN

22 |

FALL/WINTER 2012


THOMAS PINK

AUTUMN/WINTER 2012 IN TRUE BRITISH SPIRIT: ELEGANCE, ECCENTRICITY, AND EFFERVESCENCE

Thomas Pink is as quintessentially British as it gets. Ask any sartorial pundit or fashion enthusiast, and praise of Thomas Pink’s exceptional taste and tailoring will ensue. Thomas Pink’s latest advertising campaign for the Autumn/Winter 2012 collection takes British eccentricity and bravado to a quirky and whimsical place. A place conceived in the mind of Thomas Pink’s creative director extraordinaire Florence Torrens, and brought to life through the lens of photographer Matthew Brooks. “I had been looking at a location (Aynhoe Park) for about a year and the story evolved over that length of time. A magical theme took shape with card tricks and magical animals - think unicorns, white mice and time piece wearing stags - and finally a real live magician,” explains Torrens. She elaborates further and says, “Quirky British collectors and intrepid explorers of empire days were imagined to inspire the setting. Real magic was in the air and that’s what photographer Matthew Brooks managed to capture. We all felt a quite extraordinary sense of spell and elation.” The campaign was shot at Aynhoe Park, Oxfordshire, England. The 17th century palladian house sits on 250 acres of Capability Brown gardens and is the ultimate showcase of British heritage. True to its whimsical themes, the shoot features a cameo performance from one of the UK’s leading entertainers, magician Money Drummond Coutts, who has previously performed for the Queen. Mr Pink himself was an 18th century London tailor who designed the iconic hunting coat worn by Masters of Foxhounds, whippers-in, huntsmen and other hunt staff. The coat was made of scarlet cloth but was always referred to as PINK, in honor of its originator. Meticulous attention to detail, exclusive fabric and exquisite craftsmanship were the hallmarks of a PINK coat. IN

Photographer MATTHEW BROOKS Art Direction BRAND CREATIVE DIRECTOR – FLORENCE TORRENS Hair Stylist TERRY SAXON - JED ROOT Make-up KIM JACOBS - CSB MANAGEMENT Location AYNHOE PARK, OXFORDSHIRE, ENGLAND

FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

23


Shirt SOPHIA Skirt CEDAR (BLUE/PINK)


Tie BRITISH BULLDOG (PURPLE/PURPLE) Socks HARRISON (NAVY/TURQUOISE) Shirt SLIMFIT-IMPERIAL - EARNEST 200S IMPERIAL SHIRT - DOUBLE CUFF


Shirt SLIMFIT PRESTIGE – TORCH Bowtie HUDSON (NAVY/BROWN) Knitwear FENCHURCH (PURPLE)

IN

26 |

FALL/WINTER 2012


Shirt SLIMFIT POINTER Tie SKIPTON (RED) Jacket GREENE JACKET Coat ELLIOT (NAVY) Pocket Square RIDING (GREEN/NAVY) Socks HARRISON (NAVY/ORANGE)

FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

27


FROM LEFT TO RIGHT Shirt PLEAT EVENING SHIRT-DOUBLE CUFF Bowtie HUDSON (PINK/BLUE) Suit DICKENS Shirt DION Shirt MARCELLA EVENING SUPER SLIM FIT Bowtie SELF TIE (DEEP RED) Suit DICKENS Shirt KINGSLEY TWILL SHIRT BUTTON CUFF Bowtie BOWTIE (NAVY/GREEN) Suit DICKENS Shirt MARCELLA EVENING SUPER SLIM FIT Jacket GOWER Shirt SOPHIA-PRINT (PINK/BLACK)



IN.FASHION America’s Best Kept Secret

The Couturier and Artist Ralph Rucci Words by Alia Fawaz Rucci has received scores of prestigious awards over the years (too many to mention) has participated in numerous museum exhibitions and has had his work documented in books and films. An impressive career built by someone who clearly is a sartorial master with tremendous aptitude. He has a cult like following of elite customers that includes Lee Radziwill, philanthropist Deeda Blair among others. His clientele list reads like a who’s who roster of America’s most influential women. Philadelphia born Rucci is also an accomplished painter and collagist who has exhibited globally over the past five years. Inspired by artists Cy Twombly, Francis Bacon and Joseph Beuys, his work consists primarily of watercolors and acrylics. His awe-inspiring paintings and drawings reflect his deep interest in both expressionist and minimalist tendencies of modern art. Rucci’s artwork has been described as “Japanese inspired” and most of his art is large-scale canvases that are both imposing and understated, with exceptional attention to detail – much in the same way he approaches his fashion.

Unless you really know your fashion, you may have never heard of the designer Ralph Rucci. That could very well be because his line is mainly U.S. based and his designs are not normally found gracing the Fashion Magazines in sprawling advertising spreads either. However, bar none his incredible body of work and boundless talent Is truly the stuff of legends.

IN

30 |

FALL/WINTER 2012

Although Rucci has been creating both ready-to-wear and made-to-order clothing since 1981, it was in 1994 that he established the Chado Ralph Rucci label. His love of Japanese culture is apparent not only in his meticulously made ethereal clothes but also in the name of his label. The word “Chado” in his label is the name of an extremely ritualized Japanese tea ceremony of 331 steps. In 2002, two-time CFDA-nominee Rucci became the first American designer since Mainbocher in the 1930’s to be invited by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture to show in Paris. But this accolade is not a surprise as Rucci has always been drawn to luxurious textiles and labor intensive weaving techniques mainly associated with haute couture. His obsessive pursuit of perfection is relentless and clearly shows in his runway collection. His latest Fall 2012 line shows his exquisite artisanal techniques and intricate handwork backed by a loyal studio team in his New York city showroom that has been collectively referred to as “one of the finest in the world.” In 2007, the museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology staged an impressive retrospective of his work, with about 100 garments some suspended from the ceiling. He is the subject of Ralph Rucci: Autobiography of a Designer – a lavish coffee table book By Bauer and Dean Publishers, released in December 2011. Rucci is also the subject of a film by CS Leigh entitled A Quiet American: Ralph Rucci & Paris, which was released in March 2012.


FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

31


In October 2011, Rucci joined the likes of Ralph Lauren, Oscar de la Renta and 25 other designers when presented with a bronze plaque for the Fashion Walk of Fame, which stretches from 35th to 45th streets on Seventh Avenue, in New York City. It’s clear to see that Rucci’s clothes are a marvel of dress-making. In his collection you will find gorgeous rainwear, outerwear, furs, leathers, embroidery and elaborate hand techniques, cocktail dresses and dazzling evening gowns. Sometimes his artwork even paves its way onto the gowns. For his spring/summer 2006 Haute Couture collection, he embroidered Cy Twombly’s Quattro Stagioni into four dresses, creating a mesmerizing visual experience by combining fine art with fashion. In the United States today, his designs can be found at the finest department stores: Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue amongst a number of other select high end retailers. Rucci is clearly someone who approaches fashion with such an intellectual understanding of the craft.

IN

32 |

FALL/WINTER 2012


IN 2002, TWO-TIME CFDA-NOMINEE RUCCI BECAME THE FIRST AMERICAN DESIGNER SINCE MAINBOCHER IN THE 1930’S TO BE INVITED BY THE CHAMBRE SYNDICALE DE LA HAUTE COUTURE TO SHOW IN PARIS.

FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

33


HIS OBSESSIVE PURSUIT OF PERFECTION IS RELENTLESS AND CLEARLY SHOWS IN HIS RUNWAY COLLECTION. IN

34 |

FALL/WINTER 2012


Not bothered by passing trends or mass celebrity endorsements he continues to seek refinement, beauty and tranquility in the fickle and fast paced world of fashion. He is an artist of extraordinary modesty and humility and it is often the case that customers seek him and not the other way around. At a recent fashion forum in the U.S. a journalist asked if he would ever dress reality star Kim Kardashian? His answer was uncompromising and blunt: “No, I think that’s bastardizing yourself (as a designer).” On the other hand he once admitted to be keen to dress someone like gifted actress Tilda Swindon. Never selling himself short, Rucci has followed his own artistic vision spanning three decades. We may soon find that fashion’s best kept secret is a secret no more and the likes of Lady Gaga and other fashion savvy performers maybe turning to him before we know it. IN FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

35


IN.FASHION

The Innocence and Insanity of Polka-dots Yayoi Kusama and Louis Vuitton Collaborate

IN

50 |

FALL/WINTER 2012

In its second collaboration with Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama, Louis Vuitton has launched their dots collection to rave reviews. Louis vuitton’s creative mastermind designer marc jacobs is a personal fan of the artist’s work, and his admiration of her culminated at their first encounter in tokyo in 2006. A collector of Kusama’s paintings and sculptures, Jacobs says, “the obsessive character and the innocence of her artwork touch me. She succeeds in sharing her vision of the world with us.” The enigmatic Japanese artist continues to live in a mental institution in Japan. Unconfined by such a limited milieu, she is still producing both playful and painful polk-dot inspired art, and intense large scale environments as she has been since her childhood.


The second collaboration between Kusama and Louis Vuitton brings us some key pieces that were missing in the first collaboration. Covetable and collectible pieces have been added in the second round such as the Speedy 35, the Neverfull bag, and the smaller bags, and even key chains. But perhaps the most coveted of all is the stunning green Keepall 55 Bandouliere Monogram Pumpkin Dots bag. The garments in the collection draw inspiration first and foremost from Kusama’s view of the world, chaotic, playful, endless, and mysterious. But you can also see a nod to a mod aesthetic, a sort of ode to Kusama’s blossoming era of the 60s. Born in Japan in 1929, the artist moved to the U.S. in 1957 where she established herself as an avant-garde artist, and often rivaled Andy Warhol for the spotlight. Kusama moved back to her home country of Japan in 1973, where she has been working and living ever since. In an interview with Jacobs on this latest collection he says of Kusama, “Her energy is endless, I guess that is what I admire, that is what I love, and that is what I respond to in terms of feeling for her and for her work.” When the two met in 2006, they spent quite some time together in her atelier in Tokoyo, Kusama even showed Jacobs a Louis Vuitton Speedy bag that she had hand-painted over herself in signature Kusama polka-dots and other designs. Vigorous and hybrid colors, infinite polka-dots, serial patterns, organized chaos, and hallucinatory visuals all come together to express an infinite world of possibilities. A world where there is no beginning and no end. For the artist, who sees her life as “a dot lost among millions of other dots,” this collaboration will allow her to spread her polka dots infinitely across the world and convey her message: “Love Forever.” Louis Vuitton windows worldwide are decorated with emblematic motifs: biomorphic shaped “nerves” sculptures for windows titled “Beginning of the Universe,” flowers titled “Eternal Blooming Flowers in the Mind” and especially red polka dots on white background among which Kusama figures named “Self-Obliteration” can be spotted. The Whitney Museum of American Art in New York recently held a retrospective of Kusama’s work, supported by Louis Vuitton. IN

FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

51


IN.FASHION

IN

52 |

FALL/WINTER 2012


ANNA PIAGGI THE EXUBERANT & ECLECTIC FLAIR OF A STYLE ICON Words by Nahla Samaha

“[My clothes] are all things that have many lives. They have already lived.” – Anna Piaggi, 2004. Anna Piaggi was a fashion tour-de-force. An unconventional fashion maven who was a fixture of the front row at fashion shows. A fashion muse and a fashion icon inimitable in her distinctive and idiosyncratic style, such a style that could rock a 30-year-old Lagerfeld design as if it is from his latest collection. Every one of her improvised ensembles and outfits told a story. She was often quoted as saying that she never wore the same combination of garments twice in public. Piaggi kept Polaroid records, and often rearranged her wardrobe to ensure that every time she stepped out in public, it was a first. In an homage to Piaggi who passed away at her Milan apartment at the age of 81 on August 7th, 2012, writer Veronica Horewell of The Guardian wrote, “She became a spectacle, an entertainment, both a commentary on, and a rebuke to, what was on the catwalk – whatever it was, she had one already, and had been wearing it for years. Predicting what came next, through knowing what had come before, was her talent.” Perhaps Piaggi is best known for her innovative and intellectual Doppie Pagine (double pages/double page-spread), for Vogue Italia where she had been fashion contributor since 1988. Her double page spreads were a reflection of her flamboyant style and personality, a montage of image and text composed without restriction as Piaggi’s own comment on a trend or an event, an accessory, a garment, or even a personality. The Doppie Pagine soon became an industry standard, adopted as kind of a mood-board, but none as extravagant and explosive as Piaggi’s. Piaggi’s double page spreads were collected in a book titled Anna Piaggi: Fashion Algebra. Piaggi’s fun and fearless approach to life and fashion found her gallivanting all over Paris in the 70’s with Karl Lagerfeld, an icon unto himself, he drew inspiration from Piaggi and often sketched her when he met her to record the combination of clothes she wore that day. Lagerfeld’s sketches were then compounded into a book titled, Karl Lagerfeld: A Fashion Journal: A Visual Record of Anna Piaggi’s Creative Dressing and Self-Editing (1986). Lagerfeld saw Piaggi as an artist, a performer, “She is a great performer,” he said of Piaggi, “but she is also the author of the play.” Piaggi was born in Milan in 1931, and worked as a translator for the Italian publishing house Mandadori. In 1962 she married photographer Alfa Castaldi. Encouraged by Castaldi to work in

fashion, Piaggi began making regular trips to London where her fashion sense blossomed. She began writing for Vogue Italia in 1988, as well as the short-lived but highly influential fashion publication Vanity (1981-1983). It was actually in the 1950s that Piaggi began her career in Journalism. The fearless and unknown Piaggi boldly approached Elizabeth Taylor for an interview at La Scala, Taylor agreed, and Piaggi began making a name for herself. In 2006, the Victoria & Albert Museum in London held an exhibition titled, Anna Piaggi: Fahion-ology, which proved to be a great success drawing in a record 25, 000 visitors. The exhibition featured her vast clothing collection, which included unconventional items like aprons, 24 of them to be exact! Along with high-end fashion labels such as Balenciaga and Fendi. Piaggi wasn’t always a glutton for labels however, she was known to shop vintage, side-walks, markets, and even authentic opera and ballet costumes that she donned in public. The fashion bastion once said, “I have dresses that should be in museums that only cost me $50.” Once quoted by WWD as saying that she would have liked to be, “a new type of queen.” According to WWD, the fashion royal once said, “It’s the theory of queenship that I dream of. I love the atmosphere, the clothes... I never think of money, just style and power. My nature has always been to be superficial.” IN THE #FASHION INDUSTRY REACTS “23 years of working together, thousands of D.P. [Doppie Pagine - double-page spreads] realized together. You will always be remembered Anna,” Vogue Italia editor Franca Sozzani tweeted on August 7th, 2012. “RIP Anna Piaggi... :((((( ciao grande Anna!!!,” Tweeted Stefano Gabbana. “Very sad for the death of Anna Piaggi.” Tweeted Domenico Dolce. “I will miss forever Anna Piaggi!!!” Vogue Japan editor-at-large Anna Dello Russo tweet. “So sad to hear that Anna Piaggi, one of my last icons of beauty & fashion has passed, she was the height of glamorous eccentricity. X” Tweeted Dita Von Teese.

FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

53


IN.FASHION

RAMI KADI GIVING FASHION A NEW FACE

IN

54 |

FALL/WINTER 2012


Born in New Jersey and bred in Beirut, fashion designer Rami Kadi is a name to watch out for. Ever since opening his first flagship store in the Lebanese capital, the Rami Kadi label has fast become synonymous with all that speaks quality and unique style. IN Magazine sits down with the man himself to find out more. How old were you when you took your first steps towards becoming a designer?

I have been interested in fashion for as long as I remember. Since my very early childhood, I used to alter my mom’s clothes and help her pick her outfits, and by the time I graduated from high-school I had already decided that my vocation was to pursue a career in the fashion field. It was only natural that I enrol in fashion design school, Esmod Beirut in 2005, from which I graduated with honors and distinctions in 2008.

Do you have a muse?

if I had to choose just one, I would go for The queen of burlesque, Dita Von Teese, an artist who masters the art of seduction and whose fashionism and attitude captivated me long ago. There’s something about Dita that glows with elegance and captivates everyone around her. She is the kind of women who turns heads wherever she goes.

Which designer do you favor the most? Dior. Without a shadow of doubt.

What kind of support did you receive?

Throughout my academic curriculum I underwent several training and internship programs, gaining experience working with world renowned Lebanese designers Rabih Kayrouz and Georges Chakra. The first professional support was in 2008, when I was selected by the Starch Foundation, (founded by Rabih Kayrouz and Tala Hajjar), which promotes promising fresh fashion graduates to showcase my first two collections. My parents have also provided me with a great support for which I am very grateful.

What was the turning point of your career?

The inauguration of my first flagship boutique and atelier in Beirut in May 2011, for ready to wear, couture, accessories and bridal collections.

How would you describe the Rami Kadi brand?

The woman I design for is a woman living a normal life in today’s world, but who stands out with her elegance and grace. She has something about her that turns head wherever she goes, leaving a trail of seduction and mystery behind, she’s a woman who blows life into the garment she is wearing.

Tell us about your current collection.

My Latest collection Au Bal des Orchidées Noires is a collection inspired in baroque, dramatic style, with different volumes, lots of material works, bold and 3D embroideries. I would say they mix the lavish, the emotional and the grandiose in trompe l’oeil designs, playing on lights and shadows.

From who or where do you draw inspiration?

In terms of creativity and inspiration, the world around me has always been a rich source of inspiration; it provides me with flashes of creativity all day long, from the moment I wake until I go to bed, and sometimes even in my dreams. Anything can be inspiring, the music I listen to while I’m driving, interaction with people, when I’m relaxing at the beach, or reading magazines, watching other designers fashion shows and so on. Another major source of inspiration is obtained while travelling, visiting new countries and getting acquainted with new cultures and fashion salons. Inspiration is not only limited to my day to day activities, it is also found in my dreams! I always dream about dresses or shapes and I wake up in the middle of night to draw them, and go back to sleep.

How mature do you think the fashion world is in the Middle East region?

On the haute couture level we are doing very well, however, the prêt à porter sector still needs development.

Does the Arab woman like to take risks?

Oriental women are very concerned about their appearance, and make sure they are always well dressed and elegant, they keep up with the latest trends, and know what kind of fashion suits them.

You have worked with names like Haifa Wehbe, Myriam Fares and Nicole Saba. How does their style differ?

Each one of these stars has her own personality, style and artistic appearance and working with them was very inspiring and enriching since it has allowed me to take my creativity towards different directions.

If you could dress any given three women in the world, who would they be; And why? No one in particular, any one rich with elegance, style, glamour, etc.

In 2011, at the age of 24 you open your first atelier in Clemenceau, Beirut. How did that come about?

The decision to launch my first atelier was based on the will to establish an independent brand, as a stepping stone for the long term vision of my career. A lot of personal efforts were invested into making this project a success, and of course I was supported by my family, friends, and my partner Lama El Aridi.

What is the long term vision for the Rami Kadi brand?

While my dreams for the RK Brand are big, I am currently working on reaching new markets, mainly in the Middle East and Europe, where I am putting increased efforts on spreading the renown of my creations. At a later stage, I hope to be able to develop derivative products and departments, such as a baby clothing line for example, who knows, the sky is the limit to my imagination. IN

FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

55


IN OBSESSION Above Necklace by Dior Handbag by Dior

IN

56 |

FALL/WINTER 2012


Above Necklace by Dior Handbag by Dior

FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

57


Above Earrings by Dior Petrol Acrylic bag by Jimmy Choo

IN

58 |

FALL/WINTER 2012


Above Gloves by Tory Burch Handbag by Marni

FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

59


IN LOVES Clockwise from top left Black Ribbed Wallet by Alexander McQueen White Harness Shirt by Alexander McQueen Vacuum Calf Brogue Shoes by Alexander McQueen Stripe Band Wool Flannel Trousers by Alexander McQueen

IN

66 |

FALL/WINTER 2012


Clockwise from top left Daisy Flower Navy & Red by Pink Multi Grey Bag by Dsquared Bleecker Painted Stripe Billfold by Coach Cap Toe Lace-Ups with Discreet H Logo at the Side and Thick Sole by Hogan

FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

67


Above Unisex Aviator Plastic Frame Sun-Glasses by Dsquared2

IN

68 |

FALL/WINTER 2012


Above High Shine Reflective Silver Plexiglass Visor

FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

69


IN.FASHION

Changing Shoes

Tamara Mellon Leaves Jimmy Choo Words by Pratyush Sarup

A lot has changed in Tamara Mellon’s world since November 2011, when she left Jimmy Choo, the luxury shoe company she founded and guided to mega-watt success. In September 2010, amidst rumors that Jimmy Choo was up for sale, the stiletto Queen had then placated her followers in an interview to British Vogue, “I’m not going anywhere,” she had said at the time. “There is too much future growth in the business for me to leave now”. In May 2011, Mellon sold the A-list lifestyle brand to Labelux and in November of the same year, much to everyone’s shock, she announced she was standing down from her role at the helm of the label. “There is nothing more sexy than confidence,” she told me when I interviewed her in November 2011, days before her departure from Jimmy Choo. In hindsight that statement was foretelling. Undaunted, she is back to work, laying down the blueprint for her next venture: an eponymous lifestyle brand that will appeal to the globetrotting fashionistas every need, from ready-to-wear clothes to accessories, make-up and all else in between. That the lady in question is who singlehandedly (well, her father, Vidal Sasoon co-founder Tom Yeardye, did help out with the initial investment) took a little known cobbler from his grotty workshop in Hackney, East London and made him the ‘Jimmy Choo’ we all know, expect a sensational, high-powered comeback; one that is in perfect alignment with her personal style. “I have a very discerning and particular sense of style so this follows me wherever I go,” she says of her signature look that first caught the media’s eye in her early days as a London socialite. “It is something that is both modern

IN

70 |

FALL/WINTER 2012

and old and glamorous, a bit of ‘70s but also minimal.” Over the years, that distinct edge has refined, almost softened a bit to compliment her turn as a high-powered corporate name and a mother. Known for her chic, empowered sense of dress, Mellon is clearly inspired by the timeless greats, “Catherine Deuneuve, Anouk Aimee and Talitha Getty. I admire them all as much for their beauty and style as for their allure and innate sense of style. My own I would describe as English ladylike with a Californian laid back style.” Since her departure from Jimmy Choo, she has purposely kept away from the limelight. “I am enjoying my Upper East Side apartment with my daughter,” she says of her NYC high perch that has become a fortress for the entrepreneur, shielding her from pesky questions as she plots her big move. “It is a stone’s throw from Central Park which I love. It has such a calming influence on such a busy city and my life here.” The peace and quiet at her NYC pad seems far removed from the mad rush her life has been. “I love filling my home with loved ones. I imagine hosting great outdoor movie nights on the terrace, which will eventually be developed with an open-air fire, bar and lounge - the perfect entertaining area”, she says.


FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

71



“I LOVE FILLING MY HOME WITH LOVED ONES. I IMAGINE HOSTING GREAT OUTDOOR MOVIE NIGHTS ON THE TERRACE, WHICH WILL EVENTUALLY BE DEVELOPED WITH AN OPEN-AIR FIRE, BAR AND LOUNGE - THE PERFECT ENTERTAINING AREA.”

FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

73


One may mistake her being off the fashion radar as being forgotten, but do that at your own peril. With an appointment as Officer of the Order of the British Empire, (as part of The Queen of England’s 2010 Birthday Honors), firmly pinned on her on-trend lapel, and as the global trade envoy for Britain by the British Government, her stronghold in the business of fashion has not wavered. In fact, these endorsements have strengthened her individual brand value and keeps interest in her future venture burning bright. “Jimmy Choo customers feel a strong affinity with her,” said Emma Elwick-Bates, Vogue’s market editor of Mellon, probably the only chief executive of a company to have ever starred in their own perfume advert. “She’s incredibly glamorous, but also a successful business woman and single mother. She ticks a lot of boxes.” With the Mellon machinery fine-tuned, the designer re-ignited frenzy surrounding her new company. In a cameo on ABC Family’s Jane By Design, Mellon tried luring Andie Macdowell‘s character, “I want you to come work for my new company.” It is not to say leaving the company she birthed would have been easy, but in true Tamara Mellon style, she’s taken the plunge and embraced change. Now she wants everyone to know she has moved on from Choo, her sense of humor and knack for self-promotion intact. What she told me last November could not have a stronger resonance than right now. “Feel the fear and do it anyway”. IN

“SHE’S INCREDIBLY GLAMOROUS, BUT ALSO A SUCCESSFUL BUSINESS WOMAN AND SINGLE MOTHER. SHE TICKS A LOT OF BOXES.”

IN

74 |

FALL/WINTER 2012



IN.FASHION

MOSCHINO UOMO IN

76 |

FALL/WINTER 2012


ALEXANDER MCQUEEN FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

77


DOLCE & GABBANA IN

78 |

FALL/WINTER 2012


DOLCE & GABBANA FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

79


DSQUARED2 IN

80 |

FALL/WINTER 2012


JEAN PAUL GAULTIER FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

81


IF MY QUEEN HAD A HEART Photographer NIKOLAI DE VERA Stylist FRANCIS URRUTIA Make-up IMANE Hair STEFANIE ANNALIESE Model DIANDRA FORREST

THE CONFESSOR

Dress JASON CHRISTOPHER PETERS Metal Piece KELLY MICHAEL KOULTAK IN

88 |

FALL/WINTER 2012




THE LADY IN WAITING

Hat FINTHER COLEMANN PARIS Collar KRISTIN COSTA Top SAMANTHA SLEEPER Dress REDDOLL BY TATYANA MERENYUK

FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

93


THE QUEEN Armor KELLY MICHEAL KOLUTAK Blouse ROBERTO CAVALLI Dress REDDOLL BY TATYANA MERENYUK




THE JESTER Hat FINTHER COLEMANN PARIS Top REDDOLL BY TATYANA MERENYUK Dress SAMANTHA SLEEPER Shawl AUTUMNLIN ATELIE Skirt AUTUMNLIN ATELIER Armor & Bone Piece KELLY MICHEAL KOLUTAK Leggings LAURA SIEGEL Boots DEENA & OZZY

FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

99


IN

100 |

FALL/WINTER 2012


THE PAGE

Dress SAMANTHA SLEEPER Blouse LAURA SIEGEL Blouse SAMANTHA SLEEPER Fur Jacket DAVID LENIOFF Wrist Guards LAURA SIEGEL Tights SAMANTHA SLEEPER Boots DEENA & OZZY

FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

101


CLASH OFTHE TITANS Photographer KRIS MICALLEF krismicallef.com Art Direction SHIDEH OLAFSSON Stylist GERALD DERKSEN Assistant Stylist SALLY-ANN HALDER Hair & Make-up SUMEYA HAMIE feathersandlashes.nl Models STEPHANIE, MACRAM & HAMPUS - SO MANAGEMENT Location KLEINE GRACHTJE, MAASTRICHT, THE NETHERLANDS


Hair Top, Skirt, Bodice & Dress ALEK SANDRA LALIC


Coat Nawie Kuiper

IN

104 |

FALL/WINTER 2012


Bodysuit DE L’EEFSTIJL Shoes DANIELA BARROS


All Outfits DANIELA BARROS



Anorak & Trousers SASHA KANEVSKI Boots KONSTANTIN KOFTA Raincoat & Stockings SASHA KANEVSKI Boots ALI SAULIDI


Cape, Top, Shorts & Hand-Woven Slippers NIHAO-HAONI

FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

109


IN

110 |

FALL/WINTER 2012


Leggings Nawie Kuiper Poncho Marly van Lipzig FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

111


Top & Felt Hat DANIELA BARROS

IN

112 |

FALL/WINTER 2012


Dress & Accessories NIHAO-HAONI


SHADES OF BEAUTY Photographer SPECULAR specularworld.com Designer GARY WILSON Make-up CARLEY MUSLEH Hair & Props VICTORIA FORSHAW Models TARA NOWY - MODEL TEAM & LMM DUBAI Assistant MARIS HARKNESS

IN

114 |

FALL/WINTER 2012




FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

117


IN

118 |

FALL/WINTER 2012


FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

119


IN

120 |

FALL/WINTER 2012





PRIVATE LAWNS Photographer LARS WEBER tankmanagement.de Hair & Make-up EWA ISABELLA WENDT Stylist DIETMAR HERBERT Models LUKAS - THE SPECIAL & NIKLAS - M4 MODELS



Scarf-Quilt PENDLETON Cardigan STYLIST OWN Sweater WEEKDAY Shirt PAUL & JOE Pants PAUL & JOE Shoes N.D.C

IN

126 |

FALL/WINTER 2012


Shirt PAUL & JOE Sweater CHEAP MONDAY Shirt PENDLETON Cardigan CHEAP MONDAY Jeans CHEAP MONDAY Socks STYLISTS OWN Shoes CHEAP MONDAY


Cape HENRIK VIBSKOV Shirt PAUL & JOE Rolli ACNE Jeans DENHAM

IN

128 |

FALL/WINTER 2012


FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

129


Sweater F.C.U.K Shirt PAUL & JOE Bag & Quilt PENDLETON Hose SOULLAND Shoes N.D.C Polo-Neck JERSEY



IN

132 |

FALL/WINTER 2012


Shirt WEEKDAY Jacket PAUL & JOE Pants HENRIK VIBSKOV Shoes N.D.C

FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

133


Coat WEEKDAY Sweater WEEKDAY Shirt PAUL & JOE Jeans DENHAM

IN

134 |

FALL/WINTER 2012


Hat STYLIST ONE Sweater WEEKDAY Shirt PAUL & JOE


Pants WEEKDAY Shoes LARS’ OWN Shirt CHEAP MONDAY Cardigan PAUL & JOE


Sweater 5 PRE VIEW Jeans VEST ACNE Shirt CHEAP MONDAY Jeans DENHAM

FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

137


GLAMOUR SUPREME Photographer NEIL WALTON Stylist SLEIMAN DAYAA Accessories VINTAGE ACCESSORIES Hair & Make-up KATHARINA SHERMAN Model JOVANA HIESMAYR Location RARE THE LOUNGE CLUB, DUBAI


Red Velvet Dress ALBOT RUNHOF


Bag BLUMARINE Yellow Dress KUKSO KOO


Bag SANTI Fur ICEBERG Green Dress TALBOT RUNHOF


Dress ZINAS Shoes ZANOTI Fur BLUMARINE Bag BLUMARINE



Photographer MANNBUTTE (MANSOOR BHATTI) Creative Director MICHAEL DEL MAR Production Manager VING FAISAL FORTES Head Stylist USHI SATO AND MICHAEL DEL MAR Stylist LEVY PAMINTUAN, JOSE BALITIAN & JAIME BRAZIL IKON Make-up JESSIE TABLA IKON Hair JOJO DANTESPADUA IKON Hair & Make-up Assistant VALENTINO JASMIN Models ANDREA BROCCA, LOUISA NORTHCOTE & ULIANA EGOROVA

AN IKON PRODUCTION ikondubai.com

IN

156 |

FALL/WINTER 2012


FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

157


IN

158 |

FALL/WINTER 2012





IN

162 |

FALL/WINTER 2012




FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

165



FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

167


IN.FOCUS

Words by Suzanne El Wattar

IN

Illustration by Matias G Martinez

THE FOMO SYNDROME

168 |

FALL/WINTER 2012


Adam, the father of the almighty human race, ate that apple out of a fear of missing out on what would happen if he didn’t. Thousands of years later, we are eating that apple, while tweeting what it tastes like, and posting a photo of its striking color on Instagram. Some people define that as multi-tasking, while others believe that multi-tasking can be the simple task of chewing gum while crossing the street. Nonetheless, the questions here are: why are we so determined on doing, knowing, and sharing everything at the same time? What could we be possibly be missing out on? What are the symptoms of this phobia? How serious can it be? Is it our fault or the fault of those behind the new age phenomenon of social media? Let’s say you’re sitting at home, reading this article while your TV is on and your smart phone is lying next to you. No matter how compelling this article is, if your phone beeps or rings, or Lady Gaga’s new video comes on TV, you are more likely to check it out than to continue reading the article. The beep from your phone will most likely turn out to be a Facebook invitation to play Cityville, and realizing that Lady Gaga’s video will air again and is available for you to watch on Youtube at any time; you can’t help but take a look! You might call it curiosity, or interest in what else is going on; when it might just be your FOMO: fear of missing out. What could we possibly be missing out on? What would happen if we don’t check our phone and social media every few minutes? Is someone’s life depending on it? Let’s face it, the chances that our attention to certain media outlets could actually be life-saving are minimal. Unless you’re a president, your attention to every detail all the time, is not really required. Is your phone your companion 24/7? Do you check your social media profiles as soon as you wake up every morning? Do you freak out if you can’t log in to your Facebook, Twitter, or Tumblr accounts? Does your heart start racing whenever someone pulls a practical joke on you, and decides to hide your phone? Do you check other people’s vacation and party photos without commenting? Do you feel isolated and lonely if you don’t have an Internet connection? Did you answer yes to all of the above questions? Do I need to spell it out for you? Fine then, you have contracted a severe case of The Fear of Missing Out. Bette-known as: ‘The FOMO Syndrome’. Fear not my ailing friend, for you are not alone! On August 1st 2012, Mylife.com published the results of a survey conducted by Harris Interactive on 2,037 American online users between the ages of 18 and older. The research indicated that 62% of

adults who are currently a member of one or more than one social networking site, say that they keep an eye on their social media networks because they don’t want to miss out on something. The research also indicated that 54% of social media users (between the ages of 18 to 34) would rather do potentially irritating or painful activities than give up their social networking profiles. Such activities included: running a marathon, waiting in traffic for 4 hours while listening to Polka music, and spending a night in jail! During an interview published on MediaPost on August 7th 2012, Jeff Tinsley the CEO of MyLife pointed out that, “Consumers are bombarded with so much information online... (that) anxiety around missing out has shifted to digital lives (reliance on social networks)... many people would rather run a marathon or spend a night in jail than give up their Facebook or Twitter account.” The research also states that 38% of social media users (age 18-34) who have multiple profiles log onto their social networking profiles after they wake up before they check email. 57% wish there was a solution to help them use, monitor and protect their social networking profiles and emails at once, while 27% send messages from within their social network more than from their primary email account. The Internet may have been intended to shrink our world and bring people together by strengthening and speeding up communication, however, not all social networking users use their profiles for sharing or communicating. According to the research conducted by Mylife; 68% of online adults who are members of LinkedIn say they use the site mainly to consume content, 57% of Youtube users and 53% of twitter users, tend to primary view content without sharing, whereas 46% of Facebook users are most likely to equally consume and share content. Having a fear of missing out might not seem as dangerous, but it can be life threatening. The desire to legally spy on some people’s lives and check every event taking place miles away from you can be a bit distracting at times. Texting and driving is an example of how a simple glimpse at your phone for less than a second could potentially endanger your life and the lives of others. Not to mention the dangers of having a deteriorating social life that can easily affect your mental health and your wellbeing. Dr. Sherry Turkle, a professor and the author of Alone Together, says that, “Overtime, you almost start to feel phobic about conversation.” Make an effort to pick up the phone, better yet, meet up with a friend or take a walk. Social media might seem as a

network connecting people from all around the world, when in fact it is at the same time a network disconnecting close friends and families, and alienating you from your life. Social media deceives us with the illusion of multi-tasking, when in reality we are only switching tasks rapidly. This might be efficient or practical sometimes, but it does affect our mental health in the worse ways. Trying to focus on too many tasks at the same time will add stress and anxiety. You might think that checking Janet’s photos from her last vacation in Turkey is not really a task, but the brain sees it as one. Nonetheless, social media is a parallel reality of our own lives. Every picture we post must be acceptable according to pre-determined social standards, every comment we make must be the wittiest and smartest, and everything we share must stand for our idea of impressive. Our social media profiles are actually the lives we want to live, and not the lives we are actually living. This delusion itself could lead to a detachment from reality that might snowball into several other psychological syndromes. Scientists are not exactly looking for a cure for FOMO. The only way to stop yourself from having FOMO, is to practice some self-control. Social media can be crucial for communicating with long-distance friends, or advertising your latest professional achievements, or even searching for a job. However, you don’t need to be connected during every waking moment of your day. An easy way to practice that self-control is to set a clear schedule for every task (even social ones) during your day. Chose to turn off your phone during social encounters, try logging off your social media profiles while handling a work task, and choose to read instead of browsing online. These simple methods require minimum effort and have the potential to make your FOMO controllable. While disconnected from social media, and out there living in the real world, be careful of the choices you make! After all, indulging in a mouthwatering cheesy pizza might satisfy the foodgasm you’ve been yearning for all week while spending endless hours in front of your computer. But you know what they say, “A moment on the lips, a lifetime on the hips.” And a fat Facebook profile picture might send you spiraling down the abyss of despair. After all, doesn’t posting our photos and news online validate our existence? Without Internet social media, are we really here? Do we really exist? If you’re breaking out in hives at the thought, it’s time to disconnect. Validate your existence through real face-to-face connections; make social media a secondary addendum to your life. Not your entire life. IN

FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

169


IN.FOCUS

LOUIS VUITTON LOVES INDIA Words by Pratyush Sarup

Photographer CARTER SMITH Director of Photography DARREN LEW Hair KEN O’ROURKE Makeup POLLY OSMOND Stylist DARCY BACKLAR Prop Styling STEFAN BECKMAN - PROP STYLING Model MARINE VACTH AND RYAN BURNS

IN

170 |

FALL/WINTER 2012


FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

171


When Louis Vuitton tapped Delhi-based Meetu Booker-Soni, one of India’s best known fashion stylists and choreographers to collaborate on their India inspired campaign against the romantic, royal and robust backdrop of Rajasthan, fashion magic was inevitable! In an exclusive interview to IN Magazine, the creative genius talks about her unique experience working on what she calls a ‘dream project’!

The traditional Indian handbag, a ‘potli’ finds resonance in Louis Vuitton’s collection of clutches with gold and stone accents.

IN

172 |

FALL/WINTER 2012

How did the partnership between Louis Vuitton and you come to be? What was your reaction? I was brought into the project by Leonie Edward-Jones of Neem Tree. We had worked together on a fashion editorial for a Dutch magazine and she loved my work, so she asked me to work on this project with her. I was excited about the collaboration because Louis Vuitton has a strong connection with India and I personally love and use the brand!

monkeys! The famous Darren Lew from Paris was director of photography. UKbased Ken O’Rourke did hair and Polly Osmond did the makeup. France also has a strong representation in the form of stylist Darcy Backlar, and models Marine Vacth and Ryan Burns. Stefan Beckman from New York was the appointed prop stylist. Our truly an international fashion contingent had some amazing experiences only India can afford you!

How was an India centric campaign born? Louis Vuitton chose India as part of their global travel campaign because of the country’s long association with luxury and the exotic. Louis Vuitton has always had a deep connection with India. Kings and Queens from India’s royal past were amongst the top clients for the brand and Louis Vuitton wanted to honor that connection. It was our intention to capture the sheer timelessness of that relationship. And I wouldn’t be off-mark in saying that the luxuriously rustic colors of Royal Rajasthan are arguably one of the best backdrops for Louis Vuitton’s collections.

How did the shoot concept come about? The romance of Louis Vuitton was captured in a way that we hoped even a John Singer Sargent or Manet might have appreciated. The overall feel of the project naturally lent itself to the brand. We took real pleasure crafting picturesque and subtle frames for their much-coveted bags and exquisite evening-wear. The sheer luxury didn’t feel out of place in the regal settings of Rajvilas Palace and the Jal Mahal in Jaipur or Aman Bagh in Alwar. After all Rajasthan was the playground of the brand’s best ambassadors - our Maharajas! We were inspired by our Maharaja’s lavish safari parties, their valor and of course their romantic side any modern fairytale would pale against!

How did the creative team come about? As you can imagine and expect, the best of talents from around the world were poured into this project. In my opinion, the selection of the right photographer is key - you see everyone else’s hard work through his eyes. Louis Vuitton selected New York based Carter Smith to shoot the campaign. He’s worked all over and as is evident in the images, thrived in Rajasthan. I was equally impressed with his mindset. He was prepared for all the complexities India can throw at such a project - including handling a tenacious troupe of temple

How were the locations and themes shortlisted?
 Perhaps the architectural and majestic Panna Meena step-well, near Amber Fort, created the most arresting settings. We shot around Jaipur in Rajasthan. Our fifty strong team stayed in Aman Bagh, which also provides the backdrop for some of the scenes including the stunning shikhara boat shots on their pond. Other locations included the recently restored Jal Mahal water palace, a baoli step well, the mighty Amber Fort and mysterious Bangarh.


Our lead couple begins their journey, exploring the majestic state of Rajasthan. They travel day and night, absorbing the colours, sights and sounds of India. This day and night composition reflects that, and also LV’s effortless day chic and night time glam. Aman Bagh (pictured above)and the Rajvilas Palace (pictured below) compliment the story wonderfully.

FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

173


Travelling Chic - the underlying theme to the shoot comes to life with these montage shots showcasing India’s multi-faceted grandeur. Above A Parisian brand and our European heroine travel across time, right into the romantic lives of India’s royalty in the beautifully art directed ‘Love Boat’ sequence. On the right Our male protagonist explores the rugged beauty of a stepwall, or a ‘baloi’ as its called in Rajasthan. The feminine and masculine facets of Louis Vuitton are captured here effortlessly.

IN

174 |

FALL/WINTER 2012


FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

175


Travelling across the desert state, the lovers stay in a traditional India tent sourced from the same artists supplying the Maharaja of Jodhpur, while vintage suitcases brought over from the LV archives in London get some shade.

A well deserved break, at a ruin just outside Aman Bagh makes for a playful afternoon.

IN

176 |

FALL/WINTER 2012


Royal India’s valor, romance and colors are beautifully captured in this ‘Rangoli’. Indian Royalty’s favourite pet, the tiger is a well suited subject for this traditional Indian art made of dry pigments, lentil and flowers.

Louis Vuitton has a strong guideline when it comes to how their products are depicted and used in the shoots. How did you deal with that? As you would expect, extreme care and attention was placed on looking after the products Louis Vuitton brought to shoot. Many of the pieces came from museums as the collection represented the rich history of the brand. In fact, someone whose responsibility was just to handle the trunks and other rare pieces flew out from England. Having said that, we really pushed the boundaries and used the products in ways never seen before. Maybe it was the colors and life in India that just let everyone connect with the shoot at hand in a new way. There must be some interesting stories right there. Oh many. In one of the iconic shots created for the campaign, we could not resist using a snake charmer against their monogrammed scarf. The LV scarf was placed in a basket with a cobra inside. The snake charmer accidentally took it away and we had to track him down. We retrieved the scarf - sans snake! And then there is that rangoli tiger! At the Aman Bagh near Alwar, we found a rangoli (dry pigments) artist creating these fantastic artworks like the tiger out of flowers, rice and lentils, and the team decided it was the perfect representation of India.

From all these amazing pictures, can you choose a favorite? Though each shot came with its own demands and details, the most magical image must be the customdecorated love-boat we painstakingly created. It was shot at the beautiful Aman Bagh. The model dressed head-totoe in Louis Vuitton finery was a vision of Parisian chic. As soon as she sat on an Indian shikara (the original inspiration of Venetian gondolas), we witnessed an effortless transition. Sitting on a boat decorated with traditional Indian textiles and sumptuous tapestries, she just seemed to belong right there. To me, this shot will forever remain as a testament to the power of fashion and style - when done correctly they can transcend borders of time, cultures and generations! Working on this project has been a highlight in your career. What new can we expect from you? My company IndoGenius is currently working on a project with 16 London Universities and the Mayor of London’s office. I am really looking forward to working with London’s Mayor, Boris Johnson to showcase London as the international capital of higher education. Partner institutions in the project include Central St. Martins, London College of Fashion and the Royal College of Art.

It is a fantastic chance to work with incredibly creative and innovative people including some of London’s most successful Indian alumni. From fashion to academia, it’s an interesting change. My career as a stylist and choreographer continues, but I see it more as an expansion of my horizons rather than change. I focus on the creative aspects, on event production, on management and on clients with links to fashion and other creative arts. We just go to know about your whirlwind wedding. What was easier? Planning your wedding or this campaign? Whether styling shoots in rural Rajasthan or organizing international events in Delhi, everything seems easy by comparison to getting married. My husband and I had four weddings! My parents are Hindu and Sikh - we had both pheras and an Anand Karaj. My husband is British - so we also needed to have a court wedding in India - and then we had a wonderful white wedding in Somerset, England. Flying family and friends from one country to another and organizing the events to fit everyone’s schedules meant it took over two years to properly get married! IN

FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

177


IN.FOCUS THE MATING GAME THE CURIOUS DATING HABITS OF GLAMOROUS EXPATS

IN

178 |

FALL/WINTER 2012

Words by Danna

Molly Weiss Illustration by Matias G Martinez


The Middle East is arguably home to the some of the most trend-obsessed cities on Earth—the beautiful people are forever chasing the newest club, restaurant, or couture label. In a single day a girl can view the tallest building, binge on the world’s most expensive cupcake, coax her boyfriend into treating her to the latest Louboutins at the largest mall, and then show them off on the most exclusive dance floor around. Here today, gone tomorrow, these places will be out of style in a month or two, when it’s onto the next craze. This culture plays right into Dubai’s inherently transient nature. This city is populated by approximately 80% expatriates, magnetically attracted to the metropolis by the shimmering promise of cushy tax-free salaries. The UAE immigration policy of no job, no visa breeds an ambitious, high-earning market of people, a large percentage of whom are young and unattached, trying to make the most of an adventurous few years abroad. Many expats enjoy playing up their sophisticated, high-end lifestyle using social media, posting photos of themselves partying on a yacht with bubbly, much to the jealousy of their friends back home who react with envious comments. The expat is engaging in the process of acquiring social currency by building a jet-set image, a reputation which will ensure increased popularity upon returning to the home country with a bank account and closet happier than ever before. Jamal*, a Jordanian banker, explains the attraction of the dating environment as follows “I come from Amman where everyone knows everyone. The feeling of anonymity here, where no one knows my name and I can go out wearing whatever I want, reinventing my story however I please is addictive.” He and many of his friends enjoy going out to clubs on weekends and flirting with women from all over the world. However, he has never gotten pulled into a relationship. This habit can be called “conducting market research,” and is typical to a bunch of guys with money to spare enjoying their world tour of light-hearted dalliances with beautiful women. They are researching women and just having fun, all in preparation for “the one,” an inexperienced, more conservative girl whom they will place on a pedestal. Pippa*, a green-eyed Brit, and her leggy, Brazilian friend, Andrea* are wary. Both are professionals with advanced university degrees and solid incomes and buy their own Prada and aren’t looking for a guy to take care of them materially, but actually to connect on a deeper level. Sadly they’ve been in the game for too long and consequently have given up paying time of day to men while they are out. Andrea is convinced that fellows like Jamal are not looking for anything meaningful. “When they are ready to get married their families will find them someone back home in their country.” Pippa rolls her eyes and explains how some of her male colleagues frequently fly through GCC countries carrying a little black book filled with female flight attendants’ details, one per destination. “These guys are not ready to settle down. They don’t want to have an intellectual conversation. Their jobs provide them with that kind of stimulation. They just want to relax with these girls,” she says. As an expat, she’s given up on dating and when asked for her number gives out fake digits.

JoJo,* from Lebanon, isn’t afraid to tell it like it is; she readily explains the whole “gold digger” phenomenon. “I want a guy I can look up to. He will be older and able to take care of me. He’ll be a powerful and successful person and I will make him feel good about himself when we go out and his friends see us together.” When asked how physical attraction weighs in, JoJo admits that “it doesn’t really matter. If he’s not appealing in that way to me at first, he’ll grow on me.” This mentality is all too common, where many singles (consciously or not) are searching for just this kind of transactional relationship, a perfect partnership: a beautiful women and a rich, successful man. This type of couple is untouchable in popularity, photographed in all the society magazines, multiplying the popularity and party invites each would ever be able to score individually. In such a case, it’s hard to feel sorry for the man involved— he’s getting the company of a gorgeous woman. “But does he know she’s rented, and just expecting him to buy her off with things?” wonders Salem*, a Canadian publicist who regrets that he’s “wasted way too much cash on dating.” Salem has tried to treat a girl to dinner at a quirky place in old Dubai, only to be asked for a table at a popular lounge located in the trendy DIFC district. “There’s just this expectation that you will take a girl out to an expensive place and will reserve a table for the two of you and her girlfriends. There are a lot of broke people here pretending to have money.”

MANY EXPATS ENJOY PLAYING UP THEIR SOPHISTICATED, HIGH-END LIFESTYLE USING SOCIAL MEDIA, POSTING PHOTOS OF THEMSELVES PARTYING ON A YACHT WITH BUBBLY, MUCH TO THE JEALOUSY OF THEIR FRIENDS BACK HOME Several other men IN spoke with reinforced that the local expat community expects single professionals to lead a fast moving, high rolling lifestyle, and that women see this as prerequisite for a “dateable” gentleman. The manager* of an upscale club linked to an internationally recognized brand confirmed that “this environment tends to pressure men to fit into a certain desirable mould; they must...dress right [have] money in the bank, drive a prestigious car, live in a luxury apartment, and be surrounded by beautiful women.” It’s easy to lose sight of the ground in this kind of climate. This plays right into our issue theme of #FOMO with a word of caution for all you single boys and girls enjoying the bedazzled expat-life with one another, paying little attention to what is real. The danger in measuring oneself according to a baseline of beauty or wealth is that the rush of youth and popularity can’t last forever. There will always be a prettier woman or a richer man, and one day you too will begin to wrinkle and fade. Happy dating — may you go forth in beauty and success, remembering that everyone you meet is also just looking to be loved. IN

FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

179


IN.FOCUS

EVERYBODY LOVES ELIZABETH THE ORIGINAL HOLLYWOOD ICON’S UNIVERSAL APPEAL Words by Danna Molly Weiss

“Has Elizabeth Taylor died yet?” asked a friend when she heard I was writing this article. While one had to be living under a rock to not hear about her 2011 death (it made news headlines in all the world’s languages and millions of fans mourned), the question still made me reflect. The reason that my friend was unaware of her death is that Elizabeth lived her life with such fearlessness that her story is immortal, always in style, and never to be forgotten. Elizabeth Taylor was the original Hollywood icon. She set an example that generations of celebrities have since tried unsuccessfully to channel (note: I reserve my opinion about loveable train wreck Lindsay Lohan and her part in the upcoming biopic on Taylor’s life). Although her striking eyes, brown velvet hair and ability to melt to pieces on-screen are memorable, what we will always remember about Liz is that she just didn’t give a damn what other people thought.

IN

180 |

FALL/WINTER 2012


FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

181


Clockwise from top left Elizabeth starring in Cleopatra (1963) A legendary friendship; Michael Jackson & Elizabeth Taylor Elizabeth Taylor with Richard Burton, at the 42nd Academy Awards in April 1970

IN

182 |

FALL/WINTER 2012


Also notorious is the lifelong love that Elizabeth Taylor shared with her later ex-husband the actor Richard Burton, who gifted the actress with the 33.19-carat Asscher-cut Krupp Diamond ring in 1968. Nowadays every Kim and Kanye connection has a nickname, but this concept actually originated with Liz and Dick, the original World’s Cutest Couple nickname touted in the tabloids. One only has to curl up on the couch with a bowl of popcorn and screen Cleopatra (1963) to recognize the carbonated physical connection that the two shared. They lived their love and their arguments publicly, rarely alone, and often jealous of one another. Their fiery relationship has often been listed alongside Romeo and Juliet as one of the greatest loves of all time.

In 1985 she famously attended the Commitment to Life dinner, a benefit for AIDS Project LA. She was the first celebrity to speak about the disease in public, and in doing so she broke the stigma about an epidemic that was claiming more and more precious lives but was still socially taboo to discuss.Taylor’s close friend and co-star in Giant (1956), Rock Hudson, succumbed to AIDS and visiting him throughout his illness she discovered just how brutal the virus became. By calling attention to AIDS, she was able to generate a tremendous buzz with the paparazzi following in her undertow, grateful for a photo op with Elizabeth. She explained her cat and mouse game with the paparazzi and her decision to use her name to coax them to publicly mention the disease very bluntly, “I decided that with my name I could open certain doors, that I was a commodity in myself — and I’m not talking as an actress. I could take the fame I’d resented and tried to get away from for so many years—but you can never get away from it—and use it to do some good. I wanted to retire, but the tabloids wouldn’t let me. So I thought, if you’re going to screw me over, I’ll use you.” Over the years, Elizabeth returned again and again to The Abbey, a hole in the wall gay bar in New York City, where she would sip martinis with the regulars, her fluffy little dog nestled on her lap obediently. Her entourage, sometimes numbering up to 40 people, was diverse, and included several particularly flamboyant gay men. By appearing publicly at gay bars and with men who had bravely stepped out of the closet, Elizabeth made being homosexual socially acceptable and even trendy, paving the way for people of all sexual orientations to feel comfortable living their lives authentically and without embarrassment.

Fascination with Elizabeth Taylor transcends borders, religions, and genders. People everywhere recognize her face and name and think of her with a mixture of adoration and envy. Whether or not we admit it, each of us looks for public recognition, and sometimes lay in bed at night staring up at the ceiling wondering if we have succeeded or failed.

DESPITE THIS EXCESSIVELY GLAMOROUS LIFESTYLE, SHE WASN’T UNTOUCHABLE — HER LIFE WAS MESSY. IT INCLUDED AFFAIRS, EIGHT MARRIAGES, DIVORCES, AND HEALTH ISSUES, ALL OF WHICH SHE COURAGEOUSLY SHARED WITH HER FANS. Many of us have fantasized since childhood about becoming famous. Elizabeth lived the ultimate dream life, gorgeous and talented as anyone who had ever come before her, dripping in diamonds and interesting men, hopping from one capital city to another, always in a chauffeured car. But despite this excessively glamorous lifestyle, she wasn’t untouchable—her life was messy. It included affairs, eight marriages, divorces, and health issues, all of which she courageously shared with her fans. When she called someone her friend, as in the case of Michael Jackson, he was her brother for life, and she would stand by his side tenaciously come hell or high water, even if it was a potential threat to her own reputation. She was not cautious in giving away her heart; she leapt off the cliff of love time and again, crashed to the ground, dusted herself off and repeated the performance. A truly talented actress and a remarkably honest human being, Elizabeth Taylor believed that no matter what miracle or tragedy life brought, the show must go on. IN

FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

183


IN.FOCUS

THE CLONE ZONE FROM “IT GIRLS” TO FASHION VICTIMS AND EVERYTHING IN BETWEEN Words by Katie Clinton

IN

184 |

FALL/WINTER 2012


The world of fashion has never been so open. It’s now possible to get a better view of the shows from a computer than from the second row, we can intern in the offices of the taste-makers and, if we don’t get that far, we can still read every thought of every ‘someone’ out there. The wealth of inspiration and information at our fingertips has been heralded as the ultimate democratisation of an industry that has kept its door firmly shut for years. The once-outsiders can now infiltrate the sacred circle and revel in all its offerings. It’s fashion 2.0, and it should have led to the demolishing of all those old walls; we no longer need someone to tell us what to wear because we can see what’s on the runway and decide for ourselves. But somehow the opposite has happened. In a time when the style-conscious should feel more liberated than ever from the social pressure to ‘dress’, it seems that fashion FOMO (fear of missing out) is a growing condition. It’s fashionable to be ‘in fashion’ at the minute. Actresses are fronting the campaigns of major houses, singers are designing collections for the high street and the actual designers are busy working with everyone from car manufactures to Coca-Cola. Fashion has bypassed music as the number one path to fame, fortune and fantastic clothes; and everyone wants a slice. Somewhere along the line fashion and celebrity mixed and since then, have you noticed; everyone kind of looks the same? In an era of ‘it-bags’ and ‘it-girls’ a certain trend has emerged that has nothing to do with what’s on the runway. This is the formula for a socialite; that girl with the right look (skinny with a gold card) who’s at all the right parties, with all the right clothes and on all the right arms. You all know the type; slim and rich, she has it all. Who wouldn’t want to know what she’s up to and, more importantly, who wouldn’t want to recreate that ‘success’ for themselves? The notion of an it-girl is not a new one. There have always been those stars that have flashed particularly brightly before the eyes of the world but today there is one major difference; it’s almost impossible to avoid them. The advent of the allpervasive Internet has brought these people and their every thought into the palms of our hands. We know when they’re sitting frow, (industry speak for front row), as a friend of the designer, we know when they’ve bought a brand new, neon pink Birkin, we can literally follow their every move. And once again we become the outsider, looking in on a world we can only dream of being part of. These ‘people of the moment’ have come to have more of an influence on the world’s fashion choices than editors and critics. But the difference between these ‘socials’ and the true fashion elite is this; while a person may not have the

talent or determination to rise to the lofty heights of editor, they can always perfect their looks with a nip and tuck, and grab the latest must-have accessory from Milan. There is very little our world places more value on than beauty and money, and those who have it. And so the mystery of the suddenly similar crowds on every exclusive guest list is not so curious after all. But what comes of these fashion victims? Is it worth following them down the garden path if it means a life of such luxury and apparent glamour? The harsh reality of the situation is that after dedicating so much time to the pursuit of this ideal image, the definition of ‘it’ will change as quickly as the trends. They might experience that elusive 15 minutes of fame but once someone younger or cooler comes along the same media who flocked to them will not think twice about leaving our it-girl out in the cold. And of all those pinthin females, tottering in their Louboutins and clutching their 2.55s only a tiny fraction will even be lucky enough to be treated so harshly. But the fashion seasons are always a step ahead and so are those who steer them. It is a small group of people at the nucleus of the industry and now, for a time, they are surrounded by more buzzing electrons of glitz, perfect manicures and overwhelming desire than usual. The industry itself may have been exposed to the world but the world has not taken advantage of it. In truth, many have put themselves right back in gilded cages, always marching to someone else’s beat in a sea of regurgitated opinion that filters down from those with access to all things exclusive. But there are two reassuring points to remember about this theatre of fake smiles and fake noses; it actually has very little to do with the real fashion industry, it is merely the getfamous-quick flavour of the month. Designers will continue to show and the world will continue to turn. But more importantly, there are those who don’t buy (literally) into the hype. These are the ones who will do something new, who will push the boundaries of what we see as beautiful be it in art or music or fashion. Ironically, it is likely from this pool of talent that the next generation’s fashion nucleus will ascend. As so often is the case, it will be those who care little for fame that will have it pushed upon them as they do what they are passionate about. In this world of information overload, the ability to sift and curate our own experience is all-important. The camera flashes can blind and distract; for those who can look past them there is a real opportunity to do something different. But, alas, for those who get caught up in the most glamorous of rat-races it seems they will go on searching for the newest perception of ‘ideal’ as will so many after them. But hey, at least they look good doing it. IN

FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

185


IN.FOCUS

Words by Sherin Kermanshah A few years ago, I contracted a bad case of FOMO. I honestly can’t keep a count of how many quiet evenings have been interrupted by this disorder. A classic FOMO driven evening would look something like this; me curled up on my sofa with Pompom (my adorable and fluffy best friend), some spicy homemade edamame, and the latest episode of Revenge, ready to spend a peaceful night at home. Serene, while it lasted, I’d soon be distracted again by my iPhone’s pop ups and my Blackberry’s daunting red light, each flashing notifications from a handful of messaging services and social networking sites. All beacons of evidence of what my friends were School up to that evening.

As the messages pour in, I would be sucked into the social media vortex. I would get so wrapped up in the daily frenzy of messages and temptations that suddenly, my simple familial pleasures just dulled in comparison with the things I could be doing. My fear of missing out is a classic product of this era of social media we live in. Are we afraid that we’ve made the wrong decision about how to spend our time? Are others doing life better? The flurry of opportunities set off a rush of anxiety and uncertainty. I would abruptly be torn between relaxing in my snug set up and rallying for a spontaneous rendezvous, and I just did not know what to do.


Was there anyone in particular that I had missed or was really eager to meet? How unpredictable can an outing actually be? If I had decided to stay in on an evening like that, then there was always this sense of worry that would tug at the corners of my mind, basically set off by the fear of regret. I was afraid that I had made the wrong decision about how I would spend my time that evening. I start imagining how things could have been different, and that really motivates one to behave in strange ways. #FOMO. The fear of missing out is a phenomenon referring to the blend of anxiety, inadequacy and irritation that can flare up while skimming social media portals like Facebook, Twitter, Foursquare and Instagram. Billions of Twitter messages, status updates and photographs provide stimulating peeks into the daily lives and activities of friends, “frenemies,” family, and colleagues. The positive side to all this is immeasurable. Following friends’ and families postings that are all scattered around the world often makes one feel more connected to them, and not less. News updates and pictures of all the graduations, stepping stones, yacht parties, concerts, gala’s, dinners and nights out enjoyed by the people in our social circles are helpful. But, sometimes, there is a downside to all of this. Some creators of social applications say that they have fashioned their services to keep people coming back for more. Social software is the creator and the cure of FOMO - it is cyclical. The feedback we receive from our followers and friends can be slightly addictive. We are rewarded when someone likes a post and keep coming back for more. Whatever angst people may feel when they see someone else having a good time, is probably exaggerated by the overall effect of so many social data streams pouring into browsers and mobile phones at once. We aren’t used to seeing the world as it happens. We as humans can only process so much data. The fear of missing out is hardly a new phenomenon. It has always existed throughout history by such triggers as new gadgets, tabloid society pages, party pictures and receiving yearly holiday letters, and e-mail — depicting people at their best. But now, instead of receiving occasional polite updates, we get reminders around the clock, mainlined via the device of our choosing. Not only are we seeing those brag-tastic status updates, but also we encourage it by putting them up as well, which makes someone else, put another one up -- and the addictive cycle continues. Although, the immediate connection to friends and family all over the world is so ingenuous, I could totally deal with missing out on some FOMO.

“We forget about the delayed flights and jet- lag but remember that lush rainforest hike, or the fancy meal in Paris. The vacation might be long gone but it’s still making us happy.” We are the FOMO generation. I feel like since we are all so plugged in to Facebook, Twitter, G-chat, Instagram, texting, whatever - you always know what others are doing, and you constantly feel like your life just doesn’t match up. Even if you’re out doing everything you can, there is this endless stream of information about what other people are doing - and how good they look doing it! As technology becomes ever more widespread, our relationship to it becomes even more intimate, giving it the power to influence choices, moods and feelings. There is an immaturity to our relationship with technology. It is still evolving. We are struggling with the always-on feeling of association that the Internet can offer

and we still need to figure out how to limit its influence on our lives. And, ask any young professional pursuing a new business opportunity or entire career transformation -- in order to stay upto-date in today’s job market, social media connectedness is fundamental to success. We live in an age where everything is instantaneous and at the tip of our fingers. Magnify this same psychological phenomenon across a full range of consumer products – from clothes to cars, iPads to shoes – and you can begin to see the hedonic treadmill that distresses people in developed countries. Not only do our minds unconsciously adjust to the new state of wealth, but also we are continuously being bombarded with a new set of expensive expectations. Of course, not everybody can afford a Rolex or a Maserati, which means that we are constantly being disappointed to different degrees.

FOMO: “The fear of missing out is a phenomenon referring to the blend of anxiety, inadequacy and irritation that can flare up while skimming social media portals like Facebook, Twitter, Foursquare and Instagram.” Everyone’s life depends on some kind of material wealth. I think it’s hard not to depend on it - especially given the upper middle class lives or privileged backgrounds many of us reading this magazine have most probably come from. However, materialism was never my life; I never got pulled into it to pull myself out. I’ve always been super-grounded - mostly through family. I strongly believe it is whom you surround yourself with and I’d say your morals or even your religion might play a role as well. If you’re even a tad bit spiritual, you know life is temporary, and all it comes with. So you focus on other things like love, relationships, and happiness. Some advantages to streaming social media has an immediate proximity that is very different from, say, a tête-à-tête over lunch recounting the events of the previous weekend. Another advantage of these experiences is that, while material things get diminished over time (we habituate to the pleasure, and then have to deal with the inevitable repairs), pleasant memories tend to become more pleasant. We forget about the delayed flights and jet lag but remember that lush rainforest hike, or the fancy meal in Paris. The vacation might be long gone but it’s still making us happy. I look at my younger relatives and they are already so wrapped into the social media vortex. When we were young we would see two pictures of Disneyworld and sit and fantasize about it until our parents would finally take us there. Or if I had a new Sega game I would keep playing it until I beat the evil guy at the end – I wouldn’t get bored right away and demand or download another one. We had a world to sit and wander about. There was just so much room for imagination before. I don’t pity the children nowadays -I just feel like their experiences are going to be much more different than ours, the same way our parents’ generation was so different to ours. I just think that computers are just pushing all of us too fast. When both your Great Aunt and your family’s pet Pomeranian have their own Facebook pages; you know that connectivity has reached an all-time high. So, I recommend plugging out once in a while for a breather. It is so refreshing and grounding. Be picky as you guard your time — choosing to focus primarily on the stuff that allows us to give and grow. After all, you only live once. YOLO. IN FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

191


IN.FEATURE

MAYA DIAB LAID BARE Words by Nahla Samaha

Once a kitten, then a cat, and now a full-fledged tigress, Maya Diab is the epitome of a savvy business-minded beauty whose talents, looks, and sharp mind have made her an entertainment force to be reckoned with in the region and around the world. To delve deeper into the mind behind the gorgeous lioness tresses, IN Magazine put Maya Diab under a very hot spotlight... One that rarely comes without cutting-edge fashions and out of this world photography to boot.

Photographer & Art Director MSEIF
 Stylist MAYA HADDAD
 Make-Up MAYA YAMMINE
 Hair FADIA EL MENDLEK

IN

192 |

FALL/WINTER 2012




FOR AS LONG AS I CAN REMEMBER, I LOVED MUSIC AND I LOVED TO DANCE… IT’S MY LIFE


IN

196 |

FALL/WINTER 2012


After moving on from the band, Diab launched her solo career as a singer and TV Host, “I love performing,” she gushes, “as long as I’m enjoying myself I will continue to perform. Every time I perform, it’s an accomplishment,” Diab proudly proclaims.

Maya Diab was admittedly, “Lucky enough to be born and bred in the most beautiful country in the world, Lebanon” The eldest of four children, the starlet was endowed with responsibilities from a very young age, “My family life was pleasant but demanding,” she recalls. At age 13, the driven teenager landed her first modeling gig, and her career took off from then on, under the watchful eye of parents who were, according to Diab, “Somehow traditional, yet open minded at the same time.” But Diab had her heart set on a career far beyond the reaches of modeling, “For as long as I can remember, I loved music and I loved to dance,” she tells us, passionately adding, “it’s my life.” So Diab joined the Lebanese all-girl pop-group The 4 Cats in 1998. The group was formed by Lebanese music producer and singer Ghassan Rahbani. Although Diab does not get too much into the history of this period, she is aware that many fans first came to know her and love her as a member of The 4 Cats.

Not one to shy away from the spotlight, Diab has invited in public scrutiny and media obsession. “I know there is a positive and negative side to being a celebrity,” she wisely affirms, “and this is the price we pay for being in the spotlight.” Some regional entertainment news-sites and blogs had recently reported that Diab was criticized for the way she dressed on an Egyptian satellite TV channel where she hosts a TV show “Heik Menghanni”, which Diab quickly shoots down in a razor-blade tone, “I believe that may be a rumor.” She has had her fare share of rumors, and how she handles them is equal parts classy and smart, “I have two ears, sometimes I choose to play deaf.” Away from all the rumor-mill noise, Diab remains focused and hungry, “My singing career has progressed,” she tells us assertively, with an intense look in her eye that almost challenges us to waste any more valuable time on rumorrelated questions. The lady is no joke, she is confident, intelligent, and driven, “I am working very hard on further progression,” she says. Perhaps the great feedback to her song “It seems you don’t know who I am,” is pushing this songstress to aim for new entertainment heights, all while balancing a marriage as well as a TV career, in which her husband Abbass Naser plays a crucial role as TV producer. Diab has much to be grateful for, not the least of which is her team, “I have an amazing support team,” she says with love, “My husband and I have learned to manage and respect each other’s demanding careers. We totally adore, love and support each other and this is what gives me my strength and balance.” FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

197



“I KNOW THERE IS A POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE SIDE TO BEING A CELEBRITY… AND THIS IS THE PRICE WE PAY FOR BEING IN THE SPOTLIGHT”


The adoration of her husband Abbas Nasser doesn’t end there, Diab turns into a love-struck teen when she continues to swoon over thoughts of him, “My husband’s love lifts me to the utmost heights,” she says. We are guessing both emotionally and in business. After all, the siren admittedly tells us that smarts get her heart, “I totally love intelligence; I think that is the most powerful trait anyone can have.” Diab, who was recently chosen as an ambassador for Make-Up Forever, embraces the role with love and pride, “Being the ambassador for MAKE UP FOR EVER is a wonderful friendship; I’ve always been a big fan of MAKE UP FOR EVER. I love working with the product and the team; it’s a professional brand and one that I can rely on to get me through long demanding days on set,” she says. This summer she launched the Maya Diab Loves Aqua Range with Make-Up Forever, her particular favorite is the Aqua Black Eyeliner. Diab’s love for fashion began when she was five years old, attentively watching her mother getting dressed for special occasions, “I thought it was equal to something magical,” she recalls. “As I became a teenager, my mother continued the tradition of making stunning Voguepatterned party and prom dresses.” The starlet is no stranger to the runways of top designer fashion shows world-wide, the film The Devil Wears Prada, one that she loves, reminds Diab of her whirlwind rounds of the Beirut, Dubai, London and New York runways in pursuit of fashion for her appearances. This brings back to Diab the awe and wonderment she experienced watching her mother get ready to go out, she feels that same excitement and the same admiration for the runway fashions. On trend with her love of fashion is her love of travel. Diab’s favorite city to visit is Paris, the city of light. “I’ve been there several times,” she tells us, “and every time I visit I am amazed at the feeling that I get, like I just got IN

200 |

FALL/WINTER 2012

home,” she days. “Every trip to Paris is like visiting an old friend. I find the people and ambiance of Paris exhilarating! Each person I meet there has a clear purpose. They cherish every sip of wine they taste. The love of fashion is engrained in the French.It is not uncommon for men and women to be dressed to the nines simply walking to the boulangerie to purchase their daily baguette. Most French men and women are very mindful of Parisian fashion! I love this city so much that I visit as often as I am able.” Today, Diab is a young veteran of the entertainment industry, she has learned valuable lessons, some easily, and some the hard way. Perhaps her most valued lesson is, “That every day brings with it a new lesson. I love to learn.” Diab is also grateful for the number of fans she has acquired over the years, she cherishes them and credits them whenever she can, “My greatest award is the support and love of my fans – this is my accolade and honor.” She is aware she still has a long journey ahead of her, and for that she is prepared. But Diab remains humble, always referencing the powerhouse entertainment legends whom she admires like Fayrouz and Ziad El Rahbbani, hoping one day to follow in their footsteps. Her face lights up when asked what she likes to do on her time off, away from the public eye, “The sun brings be joy,” she says with a big grin, “I love the beach.” Sadly, Diab doesn’t have much time off recently, what with a busy groundbreaking career. We are just lucky we managed to snatch her away for a few hours to immortaize her on our pages, “The IN shoot was so much fun,” she says cordially, “I really enjoyed the professionalism and talent of the IN Magazine team, looking forward to our next project together.” As are we Ms. Diab, if we should be so lucky! IN




“AS I BECAME A TEENAGER, MY MOTHER CONTINUED THE TRADITION OF MAKING STUNNING VOGUEPATTERNED PARTY AND PROM DRESSES”


IN.ARTS Light from the Middle East New Photography AT The V&A and the British Museum Light from the Middle East: New Photography is the first major museum exhibition of contemporary photography from and about the Middle East. It features more than 90 works by some of the most exciting artists from the region, spanning North Africa toCentral Asia.

Iranian studio portraits, updating them with contemporary props such as sunglasses and Pepsi cans, while Taysr Batniji applies the modernist style of the German photographers Bernd and Hilla Becher to his series of photographs of Israeli watchtowers in the West Bank.

Running from November 13th of this year until the 7th of April, 2013, the exhibition features major works of contemporary photography focusing on the Middle East, part of a unique collaboration between the British Museum and the V&A and supported by the Art Fund. In development since 2009, the Collection was built in response to a surge of interest in the visual arts in the region, beginning to remedy the underrepresentation of Middle Eastern photography in UK collections.

The final section looks at practitioners who resist the authority of the photograph, questioning the medium’s ability to record factual information. Whether manipulating or digitally altering images, or physically attacking the print surface by scratching and burning, these artists demonstrate a desire to undermine the legibility and reliability of the photograph. In the intimate and poetic series Le Retour Imaginaire (2002), Afghan artist Atiq Rahimi rejects up-to-date technology, opting instead to photograph war-ravished Kabul with a primitive box camera. The recent series Uphekka by Nermine Hammam reworks photographs of Egyptian soldiers taken during the protests in Tahrir Square, Cairo in 2011 and transports them to multicolored fantasy settings that are far removed from the struggles of the Arab Spring.

The photographs on display show the creative responses to the social challenges and political upheavals that have shaped the Middle East over the past 20 years and include up-to-date work made following the recent revolution in Egypt. The photographs present multiple viewpoints of a region where collisions between personal, social, religious and political life can be emotive and complex. Curated by Marta Weiss, Curator of Photographs at the V&A, the exhibition showcases the work of 30 artists from 13 different countries including internationally established practitioners such as Youssef Nabil (Egypt) and Walid Raad (Lebanon) and emerging talents including Taysir Batniji (Palestine), Shadi Ghadirian (Iran) and Abdulnasser Gharem (Saudi Arabia). The work covers a wide range of techniques and subject matter, from photojournalism to staged and digitally manipulated imagery.

Light from the Middle East: New Photography is drawn primarily from the Art Fund Collection of Middle Eastern Photography at the V&A and the British Museum, established in 2009. The exhibition is part of a series of geographically specific shows at the V&A exploring contemporary photography. IN

House of Strength © Mehraneh Atashi

Weiss says, “In the past few years contemporary photographic practice from and about the Middle East has been some of the most exciting, innovative and varied art anywhere in the world. The exhibition will celebrate the creative and sophisticated ways that contemporary artists use photography to respond to the complexities of the Middle East.” The exhibition is divided into three sections. The first one shows how photography can be used as a powerful tool for recording people, places and events. From Newsha Tavakolian’s series Mothers of Martyrs (2006) featuring elderly mothers holding framed pictures of their sons who were killed in the Iran-Iraq war during the 1980s, to Jananne Al-Ani’s disorienting aerial views of the desert in her video Shadow Sites II (2011), this section will demonstrate various ways in which the camera has been used to document and record. The work in the second section explores an interest in reframing and reworking preexisting photographs. Shadi Ghadirian’s series Qajar (1998) recreates 19th century

IN

204 |

FALL/WINTER 2012

Saida in Green © Hassan Hajjaj

Upekkha Series 2011 © Nermine Hammam


Mothers of Martyrs Series 2006 © Newsha Tavakolian

The Yemeni Sailors of South Shields Series 2006 © Youssef Nabil

Air Mail © Jowhara AlSaud

Wonder Beirut © Joanna Hadjithomas & Kalhil Joreige

The Qajar Series 1998 © Shadi Ghadirian

© Images courtesy of Victoria & Albert Museum and British Museum www.vam.ac.uk and www.britishmuseum.org

FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

205


IN.ARTS An Ode to Street Art and Graffiti

White Wall Beirut Graffiti and street art have captured a big and bright spotlight during the events of Arab Spring. With Arab youth utilizing public space to provide commentary on their respective political regimes and events. Politicized street art or the use of public space, as a means of artistic expression of socio-political views and grievances is not new to Lebanon. Public space provided a highly visible canvas for the people of Lebanon during the tumultuous civil war. Today, street art and graffiti are being celebrated in Lebanon as a grassroots movement that has recorded the contemporary history of the street and what it has witnessed. With artists from Egypt, France, Germany, Belgium, Spain, Chile, U.S and Lebanon, White Wall Beirut is injecting new energy and momentum into the organic art form in Beirut. White Wall Beirut is an exhibition organized at Beirut Art Center in association with Foundation Sardar, from September 6th until November 3rd. Curated by Charles Vallaud, aka ‘Prime,’ (France), Siska (Lebanon), and Don Karl, aka ‘Stone,’ (Germany), the show has also percolated into the city with art and graffiti in its natural setting of the street being part of the exhibition, thus taking us full circle and reminding us that although street art may have graduated to the exhibiton halls of the art world, it is still independently created, curated, and distributed. The dynamic mix of Western-style graffiti, caustic stencils, and Arab art and graffiti has given the region a unique identity in street art. This is represented through the selection of a diverse group of artists from all over the world who have been invited to participate. According to White Wall Beirut “One of the key issues raised by this event is to understand how it is possible to bring an inherently outdoor and accessible art to an indoor space like Beirut Art Center, without betraying the idiosyncrasy of

IN

206 |

FALL/WINTER 2012

this art. While the first graffiti exhibition was already held in 1976 in New York City, this remains a challenge until today. The title, WHITE WALL, confronts the white walls of the galleries with the streets of the city, a challenging prospect for a street artist. White Wall Beirut is more than just another passing art exhibit. It’s a city-wide ode to the street, a party celebrating all forms of art, and most of all, a show of appreciation to the people, their non-commercial self-expression, and their perseverance. The exhibition saw musical performances by RGB and Zeid Hamdan, a short stage play titled Karantina by Graffitimuseum (Berlin), who also led a walk through Beirut to explore the images and messages on the city’s walls. Another memorable and moving musical performance held on September 11th was Root, Rhythms, and Street Art, a live experience of African root rhythms and graffiti. The following night, TANC (France) painted a wall while Jebebara Unity Drum accompanied the artist with inspiring, throbbing music as onlookers danced and gyrated to the primal drum sounds. Aside form the lectures, workshops, and round-table discussions, a screening program at Beirut Art Center showed the legendary street art and graffiti films Wild Style as well as Style Wars, and also the cult hit Exit Through The Gift Shop by Banksy. White Wall Beirut may have attempted to do the impossible, bring the outdoors indoors, as well as take the indoor exhibition events outdoors to the streets. The attempts were far from an impossibility. The exhibition was a true infusion of life and energy into the street art and graffiti art forms because it took something created organically by the people, and brought it to more and more people. Giving the art form the street recognition and celebration it deserves. IN


FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

207


IN.ARTS

Starring Julia

A Fourteen-Minute Message to the Soul Words by Suzanne El Wattar A full time dreamer and a part time waiter, Elie Fahed, graduated from the Lebanese University with a TV and cinema direction degree. His graduation project became an award winning short film, and a sensation for the local media. He was standing one day on the terrace of the restaurant he worked in Ashrafieh, Beirut, when an old woman walked by dragging a chariot of groceries. A young girl rushed after her with some bags calling out “Madame! Madame!” Most people wouldn’t take note of this old woman, but for Fahed this was a defining moment when Starring Julia was born. The movie is about an old lady in her 70’s named Julia. She goes out grocery shopping, and drags her feet back home to her typical Lebanese husband Milad. Maybe she goes to bed early, maybe she watches old movies, or maybe she, like Fahed, is a dreamer too.

Writer and Director Elie Fahed

Starring Julia is a fourteen minute long rollercoaster of emotions. Julia (Julia El-Rami) doesn’t speak much; but her emotions speak to your soul. In the film, Julia dreams of becoming a famous actress. One day she finds an ad for a casting call for a feature movie. The dreamer inside of her tells her to give it a try, but the wrinkles on her face tell her you’re too old. Eventually the dreamer wins. Alas, the casting was not what she had imagined. She walks out in tears ashamed and hurt. A sad, yet expected ending. This is reality; the big screen belongs to young, hot women, while women like Julia belong in the grocery store. Then the unexpected happens, the sad ending becomes Julia’s beginning: one of the people from the casting chase after the tearful Julia suggesting a role for her in a short movie. Her tears become joy, and you find yourself genuinely rooting for this protagonist because at this point, despite how short the film is, you are truly emotionally invested. The happy ending was a pleasant surprise for me. “I know that it probably makes more sense and is more realistic if the happy ending wasn’t there,” says Fahed, “but this is a film, we live reality everyday and we watch movies to escape it.” Fahed’s reality became a dream come true when he made the decision to major in TV and cinema direction instead of bio-chemistry. “After I failed bio-chemistry, I applied for TV and cinema direction, I told myself I’ll go through it if I got accepted, and that’s exactly what happened. Three years later, I am exactly where I want to be.” His love for cinema started when he realized how powerful movies can be, “It’s a story told by complete strangers, it can make you cry or laugh, or even both! I found it magical,” says Fahed. The first movie that made Fahed cry was, surprisingly enough, Lord of The Rings. He explained that it was a scene where the main character Frodo leaves his best friend Sam that he found that very touching.

IN

212 |

FALL/WINTER 2012


FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

213


IN

214 |

FALL/WINTER 2012


One of the beautiful things in Starring Julia was the green dress that Julia bought from her carefully stashed savings. As I was watching her dance in it like a young, carefree ballerina, I kept thinking about the color of the dress. It reminded me of the dress that Keira Knightly’s character wore in the drama feature Atonement. The peculiar thing was that this is exactly what inspired Julia’s dress in Starring Julia, “I kept looking for this exact color, and I wouldn’t have it any other way,” says fahed, “actually, my mother hand-sewed the dress, for me that was even better. I had a dress that my mother made appear in my film and my main character wore the dress that I had dreamt of.” Most young filmmakers in Lebanon choose highexposure subjects for their films such as sex, drugs, or the civil war. Fahed’s storyline choice was far more understated, “I wanted something new, something different. The civil war, or sex, or such issues, are overused subjects. I didn’t want my movie to be about that.” Three days of shooring and $1,300 was enough for Fahed to make Starring Julia. “I was lucky enough to have so many great and talented people help me, everyone fell in love with the movie, and that’s why it was amazing.” Starring Julia won the Special Jury Prize at the Beirut International Film Festival of 2012 and has already participated in over 6 international film festivals. The film’s trailer received over a thousand views on Youtube as the media focused its spotlight on Fahed and his film. Going back to waiting tables will be no easy task for Fahed after the success of his film, “It is very hard actually! But the overwhelming success and the amazing feedback I received about the film, makes me proud beyond words.” But waiting tables is not the only thing that daunts the young filmmaker, Fahed also fears he may have set the bar too high for himself. “It is a very scary situation. I can’t go backwards anymore, the only way from her is upwards, and that is scary!” While still basking in the glory of the success of his first film, Fahed’s mind is busy thinking of his next project, “It’s all in my head for now, I plan on making a feature film next. No more short movies for me”. Fahed represents the spirit of young Lebanon. His film is about dreams, hopes, reality and humanity. Watching an old lady chase after her life-long dreams is something we can all relate to in one way or another. And that is what makes Starring Julia such a profound message sent directly to our soul.

FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

IN

215


IN.DESIGN BVLGARI INSTALLATION BY NANA

DAZZLES AT ABU DHABI ART FAIR

How did the relationship with Bvlgari begin?

Our first contact was with BVLGARI Dubai branch as we have been active for some time in the region. The BVLGARI Middle East & Africa marketing team came across our portfolio and we were invited for an interview. It all began on a beautiful sunny day in Dubai.

What were your initial thoughts upon first meeting with the Bvlgari team? It was more about feelings than thoughts. Awe sums it all up. You don’t come to meet a legend every day.

Were other directions, other than the final one, also explored for the installation?

NaNa, not a number architects, is a design firm founded in 2008 by Hermes Adamant and Dominil Dadatsi, and is based in Thessaloniki and London. NaNa has widely come to be known and admired for its unique style of fusing art and architecture with digital techniques in the production of meaningful and memorable spaces. This year, NaNa has been contracted by Bvlgari to create a one-of-a-kind design installation for Abu Dhabi Art. Abu Dhabi art is a meeting of artistic minds that brings together artists and art galleries from around the world for three days of intensive art viewings of museum pieces, art collectibles, as well as the work of up and coming artists. To get some insight into minds and the work behind the awe-inspiring Bvlgari installation created by NaNa, IN Magazine had the pleasure of meeting with the NaNa team for an intimate chat.

IN

218 |

FALL/WINTER 2012

Our design method can be paralleled to an in vitro natural selection – if that’s at all possible. Several ideas will compete in order to survive. Some of them might converge into a single concept, others will probably fade out and some others will mutate to such an extent where its initial conception is almost untraceable. It’s an evolution process on fast forward. In the end there will be ideas left on the shelf but some of them could be the starting point for a future project.

To you, what is Bvlgari synonymous with?

Design ingenuity, audacity and innovation. That is what we admire the most, as these are values that we also strive to follow as our design principles.

“OUR DESIGN METHOD CAN BE PARALLELED TO AN IN VITRO NATURAL SELECTION – IF THAT’S AT ALL POSSIBLE. SEVERAL IDEAS WILL COMPETE IN ORDER TO SURVIVE.” You derived inspiration for the installation from the beauty and shapes of gemstones; tell us about the process that led you to that theme?

We were fascinated by BVLGARI’s magnificent collection of cabochon jewels. We feel that these polished gemstones are closer to their original uncut form revealing nature’s raw beauty. If you go one step further, what is brought to mind are the complex natural forces responsible for an endless variety of formations, patterns and colors. This is what we tried to convey in our design through a spatial experience using pattern and light.


What were the most important elements/ notions you wanted to convey through the Bvlgari installation? The brief was clear, but at the same time, very ambitious: “Make an architectural installation that will convey the essence of BVLGARI.” But how do you translate one hundred years of myth and modernity, history and novelty, nature and geometry into space? We had to be selective. Finally, our design was focused on three main BVLGARI themes. First was the cabochon collection highlighting the design boldness of the brand through the years in their use of materials and colors. Second were the natural patterns and shapes as an endless source of design inspiration. Third was Rome and its unique architectural style symbolizing the place where the BVLGARI myth started.

“WE WERE FASCINATED BY BVLGARI’S MAGNIFICENT COLLECTION OF CABOCHON JEWELS. WE FEEL THAT THESE POLISHED GEMSTONES ARE CLOSER TO THEIR ORIGINAL UNCUT FORM REVEALING NATURE’S RAW BEAUTY.” The installation begins as a single volume, as pieces are carved out they reveal gem formations. There is both an element of nature as well as geometry in that process. Why was the process of excavation itself important to highlight, and not just the final sculpted shape?

The excavation process was actually part of our design process in order to reach the desired form for the BVLGARI pavilion. We were a kind of digital miners for some time, excavating cabochons in the virtual environment of our design software, trying to discover the best way to reveal the gem patterns out of a three dimensional volume. Our intention was also to convey the notion of craftsmanship in the final piece of architecture. Every BVLGARI jewel carries within a story of unrivalled craftsmanship starting from the earthly act of excavating tumbled stones and rough crystals through to the art of sculpting a unique piece of BVLGARI.

Does this installation have a universal message, or is it specific to the event and community in which the event is being held? One universal message could be that the basic material used is 100% recyclable.

What was the biggest challenge you faced in creating the Bvlgari installation?

If you consider the fact that the installation consists of more than two thousand acrylic rings of various sizes holding them together

with more than ten thousand connections covering all together an area of one hundred square meters then realizing the project itself has been our ultimate challenge.

NaNA is perhaps best known for unconventional designs that bridge functionality and art together. What are your most innovative designs in that regard?

Functionality can be sometimes the main concept for a building and ultimately its style. On the other hand an art installation can convey the idea for a new kind of functionality. We don’t tend to let one take over the other completely. One example among others is a study we did for a new business incubator outside Doha, a building with a very strict set of functional and programmatic requirements. Our plan was inspired by Arabic calligraphy. At first, this seems as a decision only on the aesthetic qualities of the overall design allowing for long curved volumes to interweave. But the same decision was used as an opportunity to develop more efficient connections among the different programs of the building and thus resulting into a new spatial quality.

Who are some of the artists/designers/ architects existing today whose work is innovative and pioneering?

The work of two of our former tutors in London is always on our radar. Theodore Spyropoulos with Minimaforms from Architectural Association for his research in architecture and Ruairi Glynn from the Bartlett for his interactive installations.

“FUNCTIONALITY CAN BE SOMETIMES THE MAIN CONCEPT FOR A BUILDING AND ULTIMATELY ITS STYLE. AN ART INSTALLATION CAN CONVEY THE IDEA FOR A NEW KIND OF FUNCTIONALITY.” Do you think that third world countries can afford to consider art when developing structures, or just functionality due to limited resources?

If you are referring to buildings then quality architecture does not always depend on budget. Junk-space is mostly found in the developed countries rather than anywhere else simply because they can build more. It is probably more a question about improving architectural education and how this could be made possible.

What is the ultimate design project that you would love to get your hands on? Any project that gives us the freedom to realize our ideas on the world. IN

FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

219


IN.LOCATION

CORINTHIA HOTEL LONDON

HISTORIC ROMANCE AND CONTEMPORARY LUXURY From the Past to the Present Corinthia Hotel London, one of London’s finest 5-star luxury hotels, is housed within a building that has stood on Whitehall Place for over a century. Located in the heart of London, the building has once again become an epicenter for the worlds of art, culture, business and politics.

As the Métropole, the 600 room hotel was a hub for social occasions for high society, hosting exquisite balls, parties and the renowned ‘Midnight Follies’ cabaret evenings of banquets and performances. The hotel became a prominent feature in the debutante season in London with aristocrats and royalty arriving at Charing Cross Station from all over Europe.

The grand Victorian building has three distinct phases to its 125-year-old history. Dating from 1885, the building spent fifty years as the prestigious Hôtel Métropole before it was taken over by the Government in 1936 and used as Ministry of Defence offices.

After a brief requisitioning by the government during World War One, the hotel underwent some modernization in the twenties. In the 1930s the Government expressed interest in purchasing the building, particularly due to its size and proximity to Whitehall. The hotel was finally sold to the Government in 1936. For the next 70 years it housed administrative offices for the Ministry Of Defense, with many notable figures and events taking place within the building.

Since 2008 the building has undergone a meticulous restoration to return it to its original function and former glory, and to re-launch it as Corinthia Hotel London. Built by grand hotel developer of the time Frederick Gordon and designed by commissioned architects F. and H. Francis and J.E. Saunders, the unique exterior style was borrowed from Parisian apartment blocks with decorative swirls and motifs carved into its golden sand stone exterior. Inside, the opulent Victorian architecture of the time is highly evident through generous ornate detail and sumptuous materials.

IN

222 |

FALL/WINTER 2012

The building was finally decommissioned and put up for sale by the Crown Estate in 2007. Almost 30 bids were put to the Crown Estate, and in early 2008 Corinthia’s bid for development of the site as a hotel was accepted. Corinthia London’s plan for a considered restoration accommodating some of the hotel’s historic features was one of the most appealing features behind this coveted win.


THE DISTINCTIVE ART PIECES BRING THE HISTORIC BUILDING INTO THE 21ST CENTURY.

FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

223


CORINTHIA LONDON’S PLAN FOR A CONSIDERED RESTORATION ACCOMMODATING SOME OF THE HOTEL’S HISTORIC FEATURES WAS ONE OF THE MOST APPEALING FEATURES

IN

224 |

FALL/WINTER 2012


FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

225


Corinthia London has preserved and respected many of these original features including the window frames, columns, ceiling decoration and stair banisters. The team has been able to sustain these stunning features, whilst installing state of the art technology to ensure that all modern requirements are met and expectations surpassed. The grand Victorian exterior now houses fully-reconstructed elegant and contemporary interiors set around an inner foyer and garden, two restaurants, a luxury spa, a concept cocktail bar, boardroom meeting facilities and a beautifully refurbished grand ballroom. There are 294 intricately designed guest accommodations, including 45 luxurious suites – some of which are two-storey, inside historic turrets, and feature private lifts and terraces. The Royal Suite, at more than 470 square meters, and the largest two-bedroom suite in London, can be connected to adjacent rooms to provide additional accommodation. From these suites and their private terraces, Corinthia guests enjoy unmatched views across some of London’s most recognized landmarks, including the Thames, the London Eye, Trafalgar Square and Whitehall. Corinthia London’s individual bedrooms, averaging 45 square meters in size, are also amongst the largest in their category in London’s luxury hotel market. Specially Commissioned Art Ideally located in the heart of London, the luxuriously redesigned Victorian hotel is bedecked with a unique collection of specially commissioned artworks by predominantly British artists. Adorning the walls and public spaces throughout Corinthia Hotel London, the distinctive art pieces bring the historic building into the 21st century. With the guidance

IN

226 |

FALL/WINTER 2012

of specialist Art Consultant Minda Dowling, a native New Yorker, who has lived in London and has been sourcing and commissioning artwork for hotels since 1984, the hotel commissioned approximately 250 unique artworks. Claire Brewster’s ‘cut out’ birds beautifully enhance the Lobby Lounge. London-based Brewster relishes movement; exploring subjects commonly considered static that are actually constantly in motion. Brewster uses vintage maps and atlases as the fabric with which to create her intricate, delicate and detailed cutouts. The shadows cast when light is shone on them give the birds a three-dimensional quality and creates the feeling of movement. Modern British restaurant The Northall provides the backdrop to a fine selection of contemporary artworks, including oil paintings by talented artist Alan Macdonald. The Scottish artist creates portraits in the style of 17th Century Old Master paintings featuring cardinals, noblemen and classical beauties but with a modern, contemporary twist. Included in this collection is the painting of the stately looking cardinal zooming along on an Eco bike, which drives us to question the purpose of our modern lives and the void we are looking to fill with consumerism. Overlooking the picturesque, maple-lined courtyard, the courtroom proudly displays an illustration by award-winning artist Marcus James, named SW1A 2BD. The large graphite drawing depicts outlines of the surrounding buildings in Whitehall. Images are drawn with heavy graphite onto paper, which creates a maze of interlocking and overlapping outlines of prominent landmarks and notable buildings in the area.


A specially commissioned series of black and white photographs entitled “Bespoke Elegance,” which celebrate Britain’s heritage of handmade timeless craftsmanship, line the guestroom corridors and lift lobbies. Internationally acclaimed photographer Peter Defty’s approach to making images is to try and render a two- dimensional version from a three dimensional situation, in a way that leaves the viewer stimulated, challenged and moved emotionally. Eat, Drink, and be Merry! Bassoon, a musically inspired destination bar at Corinthia, designed by David Collins Studio, showcases an array of theatrically created cocktails using the finest quality ingredients and showcasing an exquisite spirits library. Bassoon will be a music bar for the next generation, highlighting the parallels between music and design. A seven-meter long piano forms the bar top, surrounded by a 1920’s inspired Art Deco music room, with smoky glass doors, sound waves on the ceiling and jazz inspired art by William H Johnson adorning the walls. The intimate bar houses an open fire, which flickers warmly in the background.

BASSOON WILL BE A MUSIC BAR FOR THE NEXT GENERATION, HIGHLIGHTING THE PARALLELS BETWEEN MUSIC AND DESIGN. A SEVENMETER LONG PIANO FORMS THE BAR TOP, SURROUNDED BY A 1920’S INSPIRED ART DECO MUSIC ROOM. Also at Corinthia, the Northall restaurant showcases the very best of British quality seasonal ingredients, culinary talent and outstanding service. The light and airy 185 cover restaurant is overseen by Executive Head Chef Garry Hollihead, the three-time Michelin starred chef formerly of L’Escargot, Les Saveurs, Grosvenor House in Dubai and Embassy. Designed by GA Design, The Northall is arranged across four stunning and distinct areas, offering two private dining spaces. It encapsulates quintessential British hospitality – both past and present – with a comfortable and relaxed eating environment, whilst offering views over Whitehall Gardens towards the River Thames. The all day menu incorporates modern British cuisine, including dishes such as mouthwatering roast corn fed Goosnargh duck served with creamy Dauphinoise and buttered broad beans and St Ives steamed lemon sole with a dressing of cockles and clams. The Northall also recreates the ambience of days gone by, serving High Tea every day between 5 pm and 7pm.

FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

227


ESPA LIFE AT CORINTHIA ALSO OFFERS REVOLUTIONARY LIFESTYLE PROGRAMS THAT FOCUS ON DETOXIFYING, SLEEP, WEIGHT-LOSS, PREGNANCY AND GENERAL VITALITY

IN

228 |

FALL/WINTER 2012

The ESPA Life ESPA Life at Corinthia offers, for the very first time, a fully integrated wellness approach alongside the luxury spa experience. With a focus on personalization, individualization and tailored experiences, ESPA Life at Corinthia is set to become the leading voice in the next generation of spa. An extensive repertoire of treatments for men and women is on offer, many of which have been specially developed for Corinthia Hotel London. The new agedefying facials and ‘Rush Hour Beauty’ treatments have been created for maximum results within an hour. Each treatment will use the highly efficacious and natural ESPA product range and will combine both new and indigenous techniques of the world’s most renowned therapies to deliver a unique treatment offering. ESPA Life at Corinthia also offers revolutionary lifestyle programs that focus on detoxifying, sleep, weight-loss, pregnancy and general vitality. Complementary and alternative medicine (CAM) and targeted fitness and

rehabilitation services have been designed to transform the way we counter-act the effects of the modern day lifestyle and optimiz e health. In addition to spa treatments and wellness, ESPA Life at Corinthia is a destination for grooming and fitness needs alike. Premier beauty treatments such as ShellacTM polish for manicures by Creative Nail Design, IPL by Palomar and Lycon Wax place ESPA Life at Corinthia at the forefront. The elegant and contemporary black granite manicure stations, dark stained oak and leather panels of The Nail Studio encase a social area with Champagne and freshly squeezed signature spa juices or tisanes on-hand, to ensure a thoroughly relaxing experience as hands and feet are treated. A state-of-the art gym is home to LifeFitness cardio-vascular equipment and strength machines for an unparalleled exercise and personal training experience, and to ensure wellness inside and out, The Spa Lounge serves delicious, nutritious cuisine and daily health shots. IN


FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

229


IN.TALKS


DD

F OX

X

TH E R&B HOU S S E I R EM E ER N G I NG EA

ST, OU L E AR E BAN T OF TH E ON T MID R&B H E H I TO G B DLE SO H-O ES UN 24P C ECI TAN DS YEA FIC E O R-O HO F , HAS D L U D D S TAK FOX E/ BE I NT EN A X U : TY A ER TH E T N H A STO RE TIO AT G IO NAL RM NAL . TH MU HAS I S AN D S IC S NO M U TS CO CE N U CC SICAL OKI EB PIO E-C U Y IND M N UTT BE E U ST E DT ER R RY. O AS “ H TH E SH AB I AH E B O H I ”M IN E U SE AS U NG T / R R &B AI LB SIC LIS DIV H. P ART ER LA Z R IST S ED O E APP V TAL S I N I N GT E EN GIN HAT TW G TH E AL CA ITH NC MID UN OM DE B DLE IVE EO RSA UT EAS U TO ALB RE L T F RE LEA UM G , WH ION SE D ON . HE I CH IN V SE P R H I RG T WR I N M AS B E ITTE E M B E EN EGA R1 NW PRO 5 ITH TH, STO D SO W RE YOR U CE R A SC KEV NGWR K). I ONM ITE IN B WIT R/ AGA H ASS ZIN E FOR TH E B TT EC U SY (N E AQ H ATT W ART LI FE U IC ED K IN IST’ AN D ST SIG WO IME H T R K. I NT OH ER FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

231


You seem to have a regional background being born in Saudi Arabia of Lebanese origin, and now being based in the UAE. How has your upbringing shaped your musical tastes and development?

Growing up in Riyadh city in Saudi Arabia I didn’t have the opportunity to express my music talent. This made me more eager and hungrier for it as I wasn’t exposed to a musical environment and there was no avenue through which I could listen to the music I had passion for. With that being said, moving to Dubai exposed me to all types of music of all genres, which helped broaden my horizon. That seemed to awaken my true inner spirit.

What about your family? Are they supportive of your music career?

Yes, they are fully supportive. My dad has even written some songs for me.

Is your brand of house/R&B music influenced at all by regional music? If so, how?

No, my brand of house/R&B music isn’t influenced by regional music. It is influenced by my dad giving me cassette tapes at a young age of various artists such as Whitney Houston, Madonna and TLC.

Who did you grow up listening to? Who are some of your all-time favorite artists? And why? I grew up listening to various artists and all types of music such as Bryan Adams, Air Supply and Madonna. My favorite artists are Mary J. Blige and Ray Charles. I love Mary’s soul. Ray Charles’s music, spirit and story inspire me a lot.

Your real name is Layal Halabi. Where did DD FOXX come from? You might find this funny! “DD” came from the cartoon character “Dee Dee” who is Dexter’s sister from Dexter’s Laboratory. I had an obsession with that cartoon character and imitated her a lot to tease my brother. So my parents always made fun and called me “DD”. FOXX comes from my character: unpredictable and mysterious.

Tell us about your first stage performance. When and where was it? How did you handle it? And how has it changed you?

My first stage performance was at School in grade 10. I was 14 years old. I sang for the senior’s graduation ceremony Whitney Houston’s song ‘One Moment In Time.’ It was the best feeling ever. All I remember were the intense lights; they were so bright that I couldn’t see the audience. I just saw a black hall. It felt like a dream. I remember I felt so much energy and so gave it all I’ve got. And hearing the audience cheering and clapping in the end was overwhelming. This song and that first performance have driven to follow my dream and never give up ever since.

IN

232 |

FALL/WINTER 2012


FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

233


The last music album I bought was Lady Gaga, Born This Way. My guilty pleasure is eating Thai food. What I find sexy in a man is his smile. My current celebrity crush is Chris Tucker. On my days off I like to go to the beach or just enjoy the outdoor nature. The most dialed number on my cell phone is my producer/ manager. One thing absolutely no one knows about me is I still bite my nails! (Trying to cut that habit though). There is nothing I hate more than arrogance and dishonesty. In ten years I want

Who are some of the artists, (regional/international), that you have performed with? And of those, what was your most memorable performance and why?

I haven’t performed with regional artists yet. I performed with international Artist Sean Kingston in Dubai. For me, each performance is memorable as it’s a different atmosphere and a different positive vibe. So that makes each performance memorable.

Who is your ultimate collaboration dream? In any genre of music? I’d like to do a House music collaboration with Pitbull, and another with David Guetta.

What about house and R&B are you most attracted to? Why not sing Arabic ballads like a lot of the talent in the region does?

What I like about house is the energy, upbeat tempo that keeps you energized and moving. What I like about R&B is the soul and groove. I do have some Arabic-Middle Eastern flavor that gives my songs a twist of its own.

Do you think that artists such as yourself emerging out of the Middle East region and singing in English, in a universal genre of music have an equal chance of “making it” in the Western markets as artists in the West? Anything is possible if you just believe in yourself and go for it.

What do you think is lacking in the regional music industry?

What’s lacking is a platform that would give young talent the opportunity to pursue their dreams. Also a venue where we can all get together, jam and share ideas.

Tell us about your “look”. How would you describe it first of all, and how did it develop? DD FOXX is all about diverse characters. So you will see her sometimes in a wild and crazy look, and other times in a mysterious look or even maybe the girl next door. So you never know what to expect.

Who are some of the music artists whose fashion aesthetic you admire? Grace Jones and Gwen Stefani

What is your ultimate career dream?

I would like to be the first female artist from the Middle East to garner international success in the music industry.

How has your debut album been received? It’s doing pretty well.

What is your favorite track on the album?

I love all my songs. But if I had to choose one it would be ‘Raise The Roof’ as far as a dance track, and ‘Who Do You Think You Are’ as a ballad.

What is the most valuable lesson you learned so far in the music industry?

Be true to yourself and be original. That’s the most valuable lesson. Also, you have to be careful who to trust in the industry. IN


FALL/WINTER 2012

|

IN

235


ISSUES OF IN MAGAZINE NOW ONLINE

ORDER ONLINE AND HAVE IN MAGAZINE DELIVERED TO YOUR DOOR STEP

www.inmagazine.bigcartel.com


Turn static files into dynamic content formats.

Create a flipbook
Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.