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Loveution 13
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SPRING/SUMMER AMATO EXCLUSIVE PHILIPP PLEIN ASSAAD AWAD RALPH & RUSSO RONALD ABDALA VLADIMÍR STANEK PAULA THOMAS ANAS YOUNIS SHANAAH NADINE KANSO BRITTANY WEISS SABINE GHANEM YOSH HAN ERIC PARNES MOSEQAR MALIKA OMAR ISSON EYEWEAR THE FOBE HOUSE
IN Magazine
EDITOR’S LETTER
IN 14 | SPRING/SUMMER 2014
© Image courtesy of Munsif Molu
How to Achieve Evolution while Remaining Fabulous! We do not stop evolving as human beings. If we didn’t evolve, we’d still have huge molars that could dig into raw meat. Instead, we have pristine dental caps that are sensitively coddled by gourmet food at five star restaurants. Or courtship and mating rituals would still involve clobbering over the head; instead we have texting and sexting! It’s inevitable. We are instinctually programmed to develop, to better ourselves, and to rise above our own capabilities. The idea of evolving and evolution was always somewhere in the back of my mind as I traversed through life, always poking at me and subconsciously egging me on. Until one day I came to the conscious realization that I have indeed been striving for greatness all my life because I am made to evolve! Some of us work hard to achieve higher levels of evolution, while others don’t help Mother Nature along at all, and so their evolution is slower… less accomplished. I am proud of my evolutionary journey. I have been in publishing for ten years, and not one to settle, I worked and strove for something greater. I wanted to be different, to do something that would challenge the norms that governed my immediate cultural and social milieu, something that would help me, and my environment EVOLVE! And so IN Magazine was born, and 4 years later, not only has the magazine itself evolved, but so have I along with many readers and believers who chose to take this journey of change and growth with me. What began as an attraction to a glamorous title of Publisher/Editor-In-Chief ended with hardcore work, sweat, and tears that have made me earn that title and truly feel like I achieved enough to claim it! Great things DON’T come to those who wait, great things happen to those who go out and seek greatness, claw and fight their way to it, and emerge as evolved higher beings! My evolutionary journey would not have been possible without LOVE. Love from friends, family, clients, readers, and supporters. One thing that can never top itself, or evolve beyond how powerful it already is, is love! It can grow and evolve within you – something I like to call Love-olution – but it is still the most potent human emotion one can feel or receive. And I thank everybody who directed their beams of love my way! Here’s to more growing, more searching, and more achieving! Here’s to EVOLUTION!
Ahmed R. Abou Naja
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IN.SIDE
IN.FASHION
IN.JEWELRY
24 PHILIPP PLEIN NOIR COWBOY 26 ASSAAD AWAD THE NON-CONVENTIONAL FASHION DESIGNER WHO DRESSES GAGA & REJECTS FASHION 30 RALPH & RUSSO THE REFINED PEAK OF HAUTE COUTURE 32 HOUSE OF RONALD: SOPHISTICATION, ELEGANCE, EDGE ONE ON ONE WITH RONALD ABDALA 34 VLADIMÍR STANEK ON THE DARK SIDE, FASHION AND DELICATE WOMEN 36 HERE COMES THE BRIT THE POWER OF PAULA THOMAS
58 WHITER SHADES OF PALE BY HERVÉ DUNOYER 68 NADINE KANSO ARABIC CALLIGRAPHY ON EXQUISITE JEWELRY 70 BRITTANY WEISS DESIGNING SOFT INDUSTRIAL FEMININE JEWELRY 72 EDGY MODERN VINTAGE SABINE GHANEM ON HER JEWELRY DESIGNS
IN.TRENDS 38 VISUAL DEPTH BY THOMAS BABEAU 52 ISSON EYEWEAR TEN YEARS OF SETTING TRENDS
IN.SHOES 54 ANAS YOUNIS SHANAAH SHOES WITH A CULTURAL HERITAGE 56 ALEJANDRA G. FOR THE DARING, BOLD, PLAYFUL & FUN!
IN.BEAUTY
122 ONE MINUTE TO MIDNIGHT BY BERNHARD MUSIL 128 NEO HIPSTER BY MUNSIF MOLU
IN.FOCUS 136 THE EVOLUTION OF LOVE ONE WOMAN’S STORY OF JOHNNY DEPP & DIRTY DIAPERS 138 THIS IS NOT A CLICHÉ ARTICLE!
IN.DESIGN
76 YOSH HAN SCENT OF A WOMAN
146 THE FOBE HOUSE LUNAR LANDSCAPE OR MARRAKESH MIRAGE?
IN.FEATURE
IN.ART
78 UNHOLY ONE AMATO COUTURE BY TINA PATNI
152 IRAN IN THE USA ERIC PARNES ON HIS IRANIAN HERITAGE, HIS AMERICAN UPBRINGING, AND HIS ART
IN.SHOOTS 88 WILD BEAUTY BY MICHEL BONINI 96 PRINTED EQUATION BY REBECCA SCHWEINS 106 CURIOSITY KILLS BY NIKOLAI DE VERA 112 HOW CAN I FORGET BY REBECCA SCHWEINS
IN.MUSIC 156 EGYPT’S ANSWER TO ‘BEDROOM’ WOES: MOSEQAR BEDROOM PRODUCER & INTERNATIONAL HIT MAKER 158 MALIKA OMAR A BEAUTIFUL MESSAGE OF UNIVERSALISM THROUGH MUSIC
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IN.FASHION
IN 18 | SPRING/SUMMER 2014
BRIGHT COLORS It was all about bright and bold colors for men’s footwear this runway season. Who said men’s shoes have to be boring? Redefining men’s footwear this season were designers like Tom Ford who infused his loafers with colorful patterns and tassles, while Calvin Klein and Christopher Kane took their inspiration from vibrant crayon hues in their sandals. 2
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1. TOM FORD | 2. VERSACE | 3.CHRISTOPHER KANE | 4. CALVIN KLEIN | 5. BURBERRY | 6. SAINT LAURENT
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SEE IT THROUGH When worked in inventive graphics, transparency makes for a range of provocative looks. From peekaboos, to perforated looks, romantic lace-like feels to edgy and futuristic takes on see-through patterns. Christopher Kane takes a playful approach with a graphic, youthful pattern on chiffon, while Milly goes sexy seductress in a perofrated pencil skirt. Calvin Klein and Mulberry take a minimalistic approach with sleek and symmetrical peekaboos, while Tom Ford goes all out in a glam rock nocturnal diva head to toe transparent black look. 2
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1. TOM FORD | 2. CHRISTOPHER KANE | 3. CALVIN KLEIN | 4. FENDI | 5. MULBERRY | 6. MILLY | 7. STELLA McCARTNEY
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PARIS RUNWAY STANDOUT SHOES Shoes made a grand impact at Paris Fashion Week with unconventional shapes and fashion-forward looks. Among the most stand-out styles were Laurence Dacade’s sockette cap-toe booties at Chanel, perfect for an edgy office look, and Christian Dior’s sexy and futuristic sharp mirrored pumps. Also turning heads were the chunky quirky panda flats from Comme des Garçons, and Balenciaga’s asymmetrical sleek sandals, guaranteed to be a hit this summer. Alexander Mcqueen did not fail to wow us as usual with his post apocalyptic glamorous tech-y stompers. Celine’s silver orbed heels were also ones to watch as this new trend will likely gain momentum with other shoe designers. 2
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1. CHANEL | 2. COMME DES GARÁONS | 3. CELINE | 4. BALENCIAGA | 5. ALEXANDER McQUEEN | 6. DIOR
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PHILIPP PLEIN
NOIR COWBOY Words by Nagmani German fashion designer Philipp Plein is being hailed as a daring designer. From the start of his career he has built a reputation as agent-provocateur. He sees what others can’t. In fact, he has very particular opinions about what constitutes “beauty” in women, thus presenting it in a non-conventional, almost ‘anti-beauty’ way that somehow results in real and sincere beauty.
“AS PART OF THIS COWBOY THEMED COLLECTION, PLEIN OFFERS CROSSED SIX SHOOTERS, BUFFALOSKULL THEMED NATIVE AMERICAN THROWS AND BELTS, AND MORE.” His men’s Fall/Winter 2014/15 collection, which is best titled Noir Cowboy has already made waves among fashion-conscious men. The collection is centered on the Wild West where only the strong survive. Even though danger and lawlessness are there at every corner, the cowboy cannot let them suppress his indulgences: parties, women and fashion! He is a fearless soul who is always on the lookout for new thrills. This is how he asserts his identity in an environment where he can’t give in to anyone at all. As part of this cowboy themed collection, Plein offers crossed six shooters, buffalo-skull themed Native American throws and belts, and more. Many of the jackets in the collection have been designed using exquisite materials like embellished leathers. He has experimented with crocodile scales on biker jackets, and prevalent throughout the collection is his signature laughing skull.
“PAIRED WITH HIS BIKER JACKETS AND BOMBER JACKETS ARE TEASOAKED JEANS WORN UNDER CLASSIC CHAPS THAT HOOK SO WELL ONTO A WESTERN CARTRIDGE BELT HANDCRAFTED IN CROCODILE WITH A SNAKE BUCKLE.” Paired with his biker jackets and bomber jackets are tea-soaked jeans worn under classic chaps that hook so well onto a western cartridge belt handcrafted in crocodile with a snake buckle. Then, long riding coats that virtually graze the ground make a great appearance for showdowns with pronounced shoulders and arrowshaped lapels. Moreover, the collection is influenced by the Texan lifestyle with the use of double yokes, long cuffs and tall collars. Irresistible accessories such as must-have boots in tumbled leather with crocodile patches; backpacks, rucksacks, bags and hold-alls in all shapes and sizes are a perfect complement to the overall image of the contemporary cowboy that Philipp Plein embraces. The collection simply rocks!
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ASSAAD AWAD
THE NON-CONVENTIONAL FASHION DESIGNER WHO DRESSES GAGA & REJECTS FASHION Words by Nagmani
The much sought-after Lebanese-born, Madrid-based Assaad Awad is a high profile individual who has carved out a niche for himself in the fashion world. He brings out unique yet amusingly wearable art like belts, corsets, spectacles, shoes and enchanting jewelry using a wide range of raw materials. But for someone who sees the fashion industry as nothing but a big marketing ploy just like Christmas and Valentine’s Day, he sure has made ripples in it! To him the stress of making and selling collections every six-months where the buyers, the sellers and the Easter bunny all coalesce into one commercial extravaganza is nonsensical… but a dress made out of wood isn’t. So how did his foray into the fashion world kick-start? “It wasn’t planned at all. One day I said goodbye to my job as a creative director in the advertising field after 14 years. I didn’t sit for a moment afterward but rather started to illustrate my passion into pieces of accessories.” From here on, it would have been nonsensical for Awad to imagine himself going to any prestigious fashion institute. He already had everything inside of him to make it big in the fashion industry. As he proclaims, “I am an autodidact. For me, it’s no fashion institute, no rules. I think this is the secret of the lines I create where there are no boundaries to worry about.” Being self-taught makes Awad proud, “No one ever taught me what I can do and what I can’t. I am here to break the rules. I feel good doing so.” Not surprisingly, his designs have some sort of a cult image which, in a way, justifies what he does; designing luxury leather goods handcrafted with love and exclusively made in Madrid, Spain.
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Asked why he is so keen about using leather as the base for his unique and intricate designs, he explains, “Leather and woods are the only two materials that are dead, yet alive. You can stretch them, wet them, mould them as you wish and yet they respond beautifully to your design. While you take care of your leather pants, you are getting something in return too. They are providing you with the unbelievable adaptation to your body curves.”
“LEATHER AND WOODS ARE THE ONLY TWO MATERIALS THAT ARE DEAD, YET ALIVE. YOU CAN STRETCH THEM, WET THEM, MOULD THEM AS YOU WISH AND YET THEY RESPOND BEAUTIFULLY TO YOUR DESIGN.” Because his work has an authentic element which is hard to find these days, he is being noticed everywhere. After all, it’s not easy to acquire fame, but with Pop divas like Lady Gaga and Madonna wearing your designs, it’s safe to say you are on the fast track to stardom, “Thanks to the power of the Internet, they (Gaga, Madonna) all contacted me after seeing my designs online. When you design with passion, your creation will never hide.”
Lady Gaga wearing "Yes, I wood" dress
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Assaad Awad working on "Yes, I wood" dress
What makes his collections unique, according to him, is the fact that “unique” is born when there is a strong concept and a good execution. More so, he tries to uphold these points on a very high standard. His latest collection titled Meteor was inspired by the inventive minds of Japan, the future, wood and leather, “The main concept was treating wood and implementing it in the bags and accessories category because in the future, wood will be as rare as diamonds. That’s how the idea of WonderWood Bags 2014 came about which will rule the roost as part of the 2014 best bag design book.”
“MY INSPIRATION COMES FROM ANYTHING AROUND ME; NATURE IN ITS DAZZLING FORM AS IT’S INCREDIBLE, A FRUIT SPLIT IN HALF CAN TRANSMIT A MILLION IDEAS AND PATTERNS, AN UGLY OUTFIT AS THE UGLY INSPIRES ME” To make the fashion aficionados start seeing wood as a luxury item as part of this collection, he turned it into a beautiful couture dress named Yes, I Wood dress which Lady Gaga paraded herself in on her trip to London late last year. The wooden wig accompanying this awesome dress was made by Awad and Florian Dovillez, Londonbased hairstylist and hat designer. It’s not the first time that Awad has collaborated with Gaga, they have worked together in the past collaborating on an entire collection for her concert tours. When asked where he gets his inspiration from he points out, “My inspiration comes from anything around me; nature in its dazzling form as it’s incredible, a fruit split in half can transmit a million ideas and patterns, an ugly outfit as the ugly inspires me. I always think how would I redesign that to make it look luxurious and cool? For me, design is a problem and it’s also a solution.” Although there are numerous things he feels fascinated by while working on his luxe designs, the czars of fashion especially Jean Paul Gaultier, Christian Lacroix and Christian Louboutin are the role models he looks up to.
“MY PRODUCT IS DEDICATED TO A WOMAN THAT WANTS TO PASS BY AND BE NOTICED. I ALWAYS WANT HER TO LEAVE A TRACE.” So who is the woman he designs for? “My product is dedicated to a woman that wants to pass by and be noticed. I always want her to leave a trace.” When it comes to dressing up other celebrities, Awad has an affinity for Shakira because she is half-Lebanese, “It would be fun working with her.”
Spring/Summer 2014 - Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in Madrid
Now that Awad’s work is in the limelight, he surely has lucrative future plans for himself, which include, “Expanding to Lebanon and the Middle East as no one is a prophet in his own country,” he says. IN
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RALPH & RUSSO THE REFINED PEAK OF HAUTE COUTURE Words by Nagmani For the first time ever, since the inception of Paris Couture Week a century ago, something unprecedented has happened: a fashion house from the UK was granted the utmost privilege to showcase its couture there. Owned by London-based Australian couple Tamara Ralph and Michael Russo, the luxury couture brand name Ralph & Russo has made headway since its launch in 2007. International personalities like Beyonce, Angelina Jolie and the Queen of Qatar, Sheikha Mozah have donned the luxurious and rich creations of Ralph & Russo. IN Magazine explores the world of Ralph & Russo at Paris Couture Week to learn more about this house of glamour.
“INTERNATIONAL PERSONALITIES LIKE BEYONCE, ANGELINA JOLIE AND THE QUEEN OF QATAR, SHEIKHA MOZAH HAVE DONNED THE LUXURIOUS AND RICH CREATIONS OF RALPH & RUSSO.” The design duo behind Ralph & Russo focused on the 1940s and the 1950s because highly elegant fashion reigned supreme at that time. It was a time that world renowned fashion photographers like Walde Huth, Henry Clarke, Irvin Penn, Willy Maywald and Lillian Bassman immortalized. The Ralph & Russo Spring/Summer 2014 collection brought the golden era of the 1940s and 1950s to life. It was an ode to a soignée and confident woman who never compromises when it comes to dressing. Didier Grumbach, President of La Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture says of Ralph & Russo, “We were looking for savoir faire which unfortunately is missing or being forgotten. But Ralph & Russo didn’t lose touch with that a bit, instead keeping this aspect alive all along. Their dresses were fabulous.”
“THE CINCHED WAISTS AND GRAPHIC SILHOUETTES ADDED AN EDGE TO THE COLLECTION THEREBY UPDATING THE STYLE OF THE GOLDEN ERA.” With gorgeous couture gowns designed especially for this occasion, Ralph & Russo presented a chic and elegant collection with classic ball gowns in raspberry red, royal blue and white with overflowing volume in gazar and organza. The cinched waists and graphic silhouettes added an edge to the collection thereby updating the style of the golden era. There were chiffon neckties elegantly complementing razor-sharp tailored suits, plus 50s-shaped pencil skirts with bow-belts wrapped all around in petal-like peplums. Some of the pieces had structural floral corsages carved on shoulders giving them a refined look. Moreover, drapes of georgettes swirled organically into crisp roses, some bursting at the hips into cascading trains. Even embellishments such as ornate patterns, which were delicately hand-embroidered on silk crepe and Chantilly lace seemed to augment the glam factor of the dresses. Known for their brilliant craftsmanship, impeccable taste and overall grandeur, Ralph & Russo successfully captured the spirits of allure, romance and timelessness.
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Nieves Alvarez looked sensational on the red carpet at the 28th Goya Awards in Madrid wearing a breathtaking gown from the Spring/Summer 2014 Ralph & Russo Haute Couture collection. The nude silk georgette gown with rose gold embellishment and black velvet belt was inspired by the romance and glamour of the 1940s and 1950s and looked effortlessly stunning on the Spanish supermodel.
Suki Waterhouse looked effortlessly elegant at Charles Finch's annual pre-BAFTA dinner in a stunning tailored ensemble from the Ralph & Russo Spring/Summer 2014 Haute Couture collection. Wearing an elegant pale pink silk wool pencil dress and cape with rosette shoulder and matching leather bow gloves, the British model and actress radiated beauty.
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HOUSE OF RONALD: SOPHISTICATION, ELEGANCE, EDGE
ONE ON ONE WITH RONALD ABDALA London-born Lebanese designer Ronald Abdala made waves in the fashion industry with his now-iconic debut collection X-Ray back in 2004. The fashion-forward designer quickly assumed a position of promise on the steps of fashion’s rise to stardom, and he’s been ascending ever since. IN Magazine gets an exclusive one-on-one with the Abdala to learn more about his journey, and the future of his label House of Ronald. You were born in London and spent your life living in various places including London, Lagos, Paris, Beirut, and LA. How has this exposure to different locales and cultures contributed to your fashion design?
the right place for me. ESMOD Beirut has a very technically directed program, combined with an emphasis on trend, which is completely different to CSM’s program, which promotes individuality and negates the technical side of fashion.
I’ve had the chance to live in some of the most fashionable and influential cities in the world. The exposure to such rich and contrasting cultures and cities has had a tremendous impact on me as a person, as well as my approach to fashion and way I perceive and design. It influences my sources of inspiration and how I am able to fuse different elements from many aesthetic styles.
In 2004 you joined acclaimed Lebanese couture house Maison Rabih Kayrouz, what was that experience like?
Tell us about the renowned and prestigious fashion schools you’ve attended. I earned my fashion degree from ESMOD Beirut, and went to complete a short course at London’s renowned Central Saint Martins School of art and design. I had also completed a year at the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising in Los Angeles, prior to attending ESMOD, but opted to move back to Beirut to continue my studies. Although all three were fashion schools, they each had different programs. FIDM was, in my opinion, the least beneficial to me in terms of know-how and knowledge. Although the program was great, varied, and challenging, I felt that I wasn’t learning enough and that it wasn’t
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Working alongside Rabih completely shifted the way I viewed fashion. I had never witnessed anyone manipulate and sculpt fabric in the manner that he does. He remains one of the most influential individuals to have left an immense impact on my work and me as a designer. It opened my eyes to a whole new world of couture, draping, and fine craftsmanship, as well as learning how to receive and accommodate clients, even when they are unbearable! You learn to become their friend, their advisor, their listener, and then, their designer.
What other Lebanese fashion houses or fashion designers do you admire? Although I think we have a way to go before we can call ourselves influential designers, we do have some amazing talent, both new and old. Bird On A Wire is doing amazing things with her boundless label. Bashar Assaf and Hussein Bazaza, are also doing well, both of whom were part of last year’s STARCH foundation.
Where do you derive inspiration for a collection? Is there a specific woman you design for, or does she change from collection to collection? I always try to promote the empowerment of women through the themes I choose each season. Sometimes it comes across in a more aggressive tone, and at other times it is softer. I think my muse shifts from season to season, but she always has the same values and interests: confident, sexy, feminine, strong, daring, modern, and fashion conscious.
Tell us about your first ready-to-wear collection X-Ray. X-ray was my first step into the fashion industry. It was a daring and visually impactful collection that still, to this day, is recognized in the industry. When I first started working on it, I wanted it to pay homage to my father who is a doctor, and it was my way of combining both worlds. I still use elements from that collection in almost all of my collections. There is always a certain anatomical presence of sorts in my work, be it a spinal embellishment or an abstract x-ray-like print.
“X-RAY WAS MY FIRST STEP INTO THE FASHION INDUSTRY. IT WAS A DARING AND VISUALLY IMPACTFUL COLLECTION THAT STILL, TO THIS DAY, IS RECOGNIZED IN THE INDUSTRY.” How do you reconcile your Middle Eastern heritage with your Western upbringing in your designs?
Who would be your dream celebrity to dress and why? I actually don’t have a dream celebrity that I would like to dress. I am honored and flattered each and every time a celebrity, or a noncelebrity, chooses to wear one of my gowns for a special event.
“I AM A TRUE BELIEVER THAT HARD WORK PAYS OFF. I CANNOT EXPECT TO GET ANYWHERE IF I COMPLAIN AND DO NOTHING ABOUT IT. SO I WORK HARD, EVERYDAY.” Where do you see House of Ronald in the next ten years? Hopefully in good places! I’ve come a long way so far, and the trip, although bumpy and often strenuous, has been great. The undying support I get from my family and friends, both morally and physically has allowed me to get to where I am today. I am a true believer that hard work pays off. I cannot expect to get anywhere if I complain and do nothing about it. So I work hard, everyday, challenge myself, and everyone around me, on a daily basis in order to get to where I want to be.
What has been the most significant accolade or recognition your work has received so far? I think being credited as one of the most up and coming fashion designers around the world in the New On the Catwalk fashion anthology is probably the highlight of my career so far.
Whose fashion sensibility do you admire most?
I try to balance both worlds as best I can in my work, less so as of late however. It comes across more in my luxury evening gown collection than in my ready to wear collections. The evening gown collection is more embellished, more lavish, and far more luxurious, and allows me to create that balance between Orient and Occident more noticeably.
The House of Givenchy’s ability to deliver contemporary designs season after season that in turn, challenge the current trends, and bring a new flair to the scene.
Who are some regional and international celebrities you’ve dressed?
I was part of the STARCH foundation, which is an initiative by Rabih Kayrouz to help young designers build a name for their design label through a local storefront. I am not involved in any official program that supports young designers, however, my door is always open for advice and help to any local designer. IN
I’ve had the chance to dress some of the prettiest actresses in Hollywood including Bella Thorne, Kim Kardashian, Lislie Bibb, Laura Vandervoort, Kat Graham, Chelsea Staub and Jayma Mays.
Are you involved in any programs that support and promote young fashion designers emerging out of Lebanon?
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Vladimír StanEk
ON THE DARK SIDE, FASHION, AND DELICATE WOMEN Vladimír Stanek was a pioneer from a very young age, a small boy who swam against the current and wanted to break with tradition. Growing up in a humble Polish village called Planka nad Odra, Stanek was the first memeber of his family to display and explore artistic skills, and to pursue them further academicaly. Despite his family’s skepticism, Stanek attended art school. Years later, and much more art and design experience under his belt, Stanek is a successful designer, his pioneer spirit and unconventional aesthetic is more visible than ever in his designs, fashion, interior, product, and more! IN Magazine had an intimiate one-on-one with the designer to learn more about his journey, and his art. Was fashion design always a dream of yours? What made you want to pursue it? No it was not. My dream was to be a singer. Then I started studying industrial design and because of my drawings everybody told me that I have to try to do something with fashion. I was like, “that’s not a bad idea at all!“ So I decided to attend the University of Art Architecture and Design Prague. You studied fashion design at Academy of Art, Architecture and design in Prague. Was the city of Prague instrumental in the development of your design aesthetic? Prague is a very beautiful historic city. There is plenty of inspiration. We also have a beautiful countryside which has affected my work as well. However, the greatest experience and insight I gained was through studying in the UK and USA and also because of my frequent trips to Paris, Milan, Dubai, etc. It is very important to have an open mind. You’ve also studied in the US and UK, and studied industrial design at Art and Design School in Ostrava, Czech Republic. How has working and studying in such diverse countries with very different cultural and historical identities influenced you and your work? It is really indescribable how much it has affected me. I realized if you come from a different corner of the world, you can achieve a lot no matter what. People around the world are just people, and if a person is talented and brave enough to make it happen that means a lot. Your talents and interests are varied. You’ve designed men’s collections at Pietro Filipi, you’ve designed home interiors and TV show sets, just to name a few of your forays. Why do you continue to explore different design fields instead of sticking to just one? For me design is a discipline. It’s just all natural for me. I try to improve myself in everything that I can utilize in my work and take a notes for the future. My current job is a fashion design. But I like a challenges so let’s see what’s gonna happen in future. I’m open for everything.
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Tell us about the experience of designing the UNICEF doll for three consecutive years, 2012 and 2013. I was very pleased when the Unicef offer was made. Me and some czech celebrities created dolls and they were auctioned for a pretty good amount of money. The whole idea is very beautiful and noble. I was honored to help where it was needed. What was your inspiration behind your Men’s S/S 2014 collection? The inspiration was the dark side of the human being and its penetration through clothing. I can’t forgett about the better side that wins at the end. The collection evolves from black through gray to white.
THERE WERE DRAWINGS ON THE MODELS‘ BODIES AND ON THE GLASSES. THOSE SYMBOLS REPRESENTED THE DARK SIDE OF THE SOUL. There are many androgynous elements in your Men’s S/S 2014 collection, like lace shirts, long satin-y tunics, who is the man wearing your clothes? What is he like? What kind of life does he lead? The collection which we presented on the runway is obviously very stylized and it is mostly about transferring a feeling to the spectator. The collection for sale is not so bold and is adapted for the customer. My customer is someone who has his own style and wants to be different. What about those tribal-like markings on your models? There were drawings on the models‘ bodies and on the glasses. Those symbols represented the dark side of the soul. You may notice they changed from model to model and then disappeared completely.
In your Women’s Spring/Summer 2014 collection, there is a lot of fluidity and femininity in your silhouettes, what kind of woman are you designing for? I love it when a woman is a kind of a delicate, fragile entity. Like a romantic soul in the wind.
I LOVE IT WHEN A WOMAN IS A KIND OF A DELICATE, FRAGILE ENTITY. What inspired this romantic yet edgy and contemporary women’s collection? My inspiration was nature, unspoiled and raw and harsh and yet beautiful and romantic, blooming water surface, fairies and mythical creatures. Who are some of the celebrities you’ve dressed? My dresses are a hit with Czech singers and actresses, I’ve also dressed Lily Cole. Where can we buy an original Stinak design? You can buy it on my website.
MY INSPIRATION WAS NATURE, UNSPOILED AND RAW AND HARSH AND YET BEAUTIFUL AND ROMANTIC. What’s next for you? What are you working on now? I’m preparing a new men’s collection and I’m going to start my own brand abroad. I’m also working to develop my website and online store so that my customer can buy my designs from anywhere around the world. IN
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IN.FASHION
Here Comes The Brit THE POWER OF PAULA THOMAS Words by Nagmani sides of the fence that it seemed like an organic process for her to cross over from model to designer. Although she worked with Julien MacDonald, a renowned Welsh designer, in different roles, sometimes helping him in designing the collections and at other times helping him sell collections to international clients. She also collaborated with MacDonald on dressing celebrities and was once asked by him to join Givenchy, but she knew she wanted to do something of her own. Thomas Wylde is a luxury clothing and accessories brand, “When I first launched the brand, print played one of the biggest factors and still does to this day. Of course I use the skull but I find a way to use it that sets it apart from the rest —it seems refined and sophisticated with an edge.” And most importantly, the skull has played a key role in fashion trends as she points out, “I feel it’s one such iconic symbol that will always be present in fashion.”
“WHEN I FIRST LAUNCHED THE BRAND, PRINT PLAYED ONE OF THE BIGGEST FACTORS AND STILL DOES TO THIS DAY. OF COURSE I USE THE SKULL BUT I FIND A WAY TO USE IT THAT SETS IT APART FROM THE REST” Asked what she wanted her brand to look like when it was brought to life, she says, “At the launch of the brand in 2006, I wanted to offer the idea of this rock ‘n’ roll lifestyle but in the sophisticated manner that worked for all age groups and personalities. I feel I achieved just that as people from all walks of life were drawn to the original skull print that I showered my initial collection of scarves with and from there it just took off for me.”
British-born Los Angeles-based designer Paula Thomas is the creative force behind the luxury design label Thomas Wylde. Thomas is the sole architect of the increasingly popular trend of glam-chic-rock, which for women worldwide has become a strong catalyst to boldly assert their individuality. In an exclusive interview with IN Magazine, she opens up about her art and her journey. Through the film world, Thomas got to see and experience fashion at its best. She played a Bond girl in A View to a Kill, starring Roger Moore and Grace Jones, “After the completion of the movie, I moved to London where my modeling career began to take shape as I anticipated. I spent a good 20 years of mine doing modeling,” she recalls fondly. This taught Thomas all the insights of the fashion industry. “I have been in the fashion industry all my adult life so I have a love-hate sort of relationship with itas with all businesses there are things to love and then there are things that challenge you. But I can honestly say the world of fashion has been good to me. I have many great friends because of it.” She adds that she gets to create based on what she loves—so for her personally she enjoys fashion because she gets to create her way. “The best part, I feel, is that hopefully this resonates with other women out there. Let’s say so far so good and there is nothing to feel worried about,” she laughs. She was predestined to become a designer and run her own line. After all, she knew so much about both IN 36 | SPRING/SUMMER 2014
“AT THE LAUNCH OF THE BRAND IN 2006, I WANTED TO OFFER THE IDEA OF THIS ROCK ‘N’ ROLL LIFESTYLE BUT IN THE SOPHISTICATED MANNER THAT WORKED FOR ALL AGE GROUPS AND PERSONALITIES.” Thomas’s life in Los Angeles is a little more laid back compared to her gritty life in London. Entirely different, the two experiences helped her cultivate the idea of the brand, “It was a mix of fine silk skull printed kaftans and with studded leather pants etc that was the beginning of the brand,” she says. As a fashion designer, her life has changed dramatically. “For the first time in my life I am doing something for myself and not being dictated to by another person’s creativity and I now understand how difficult it is to keep the freshness and identity of my brand current and not just the new trendy thing,” she says. “Also, I have a greater appreciation for the brands that have stood the test of time and I am honored and proud when the woman who truly falls in love with Thomas Wylde wears and enjoys what I do. My life is about work most of the time which was a big change for me but I love it and I would not want it any other way.” Thomas’s British heritage is reflected in her designs, “It definitely influences me when I design as my English style and sensibility have never left me. I grew up in London in the early ‘80s surrounded by such designers like John Galliano, Pam Hogg, Katharine Hamnett,
and Vivienne Westwood,” explains Thomas. “It was a fun creative time and I think this left a big impression on me and helped mold my own sense of style.” For Thomas it was like winning a jackpot. Designing for Cameron Diaz’s character Malkina in the latest Ridley Scot film, The Counselor, proved to be an incredible experience for her. It was her first time designing for film and also for one character, which allowed her to focus on one person and their back-story. “The idea for it occurred to me when I turned to my archive for some of the pieces which already worked wonderfully after reading the script. I feel as if I had been designing for the super fun, dark, sexy, calculating and very dangerous Malkina all along with certain parts of my earlier collections.” She was upbeat about getting along with Diaz during the entire process, “I have known Cameron from my early modeling days and of course we had not seen each other in quite some time but honestly she hadn’t changed much as a person. She was still down to earth. We had a great time catching up. Most importantly, I really enjoyed working with her.”
“I AM VERY EXCITED TO COME AND PRESENT THE FULL WORLD OF MY BRAND IN THIS REGION. I HAVE A WONDERFUL PARTNERSHIP WITH BUYERS HERE AND THE PRODUCT IS DOING VERY WELL.” Thomas intends to expand her line worldwide and plans to open her second store in the Middle East in the not so distant future. “I am very excited to come and present the full world of my brand in this region. I have a wonderful partnership with buyers here and the product is doing very well,” she says. “Right now we are in the middle of developing our first denim line and will hit the stores soon.” Her 2014 Spring/Summer collection celebrates the duality of women who are ethereal and unencumbered yet sagacious and sophisticated. Overall, the elements that she has showcased in this collection are sexy, flirtatious and feminine. There is a strong St.Tropez feeling to the collection evoking images of sun-kissed skin, freshness and light. One can say that she has done a good job by taming the minimalist style of this collection.
“THOMAS WYLDE FOR ME STANDS FOR A UNIQUE PRODUCT THAT’S NOT OVER DISTRIBUTED.” Asked what her brand stands for as a fashion label, Thomas says, “Thomas Wylde for me stands for a unique product that’s not over distributed. Rather, it’s about creating a product that my followers feel good about purchasing and wearing season after season.” With her flagship store in LA now, she has achieved another milestone. It will bring to life a lifestyle concept where you can experience the full breadth of the world she lives; what she does from soft furnishings to fine jewelry, RTW and accessories. “I don’t want it to just be about fashion because there are far more important things to offer that all encompass the lives we live,” she says. IN SPRING/SUMMER 2014
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IN.TRENDS
VISUAL DEPTH
Photography THOMAS BABEAU Fashion Editor & Stylist MICKAEL CARPIN Make-up STÉPHANE DUSSART Hair YUMIKO HIKAGE Model LIA - SILENT MODELS PARIS
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Top JOHN GALLIANO Earrings THOMAS SABO Long Necklace THOMAS SABO Medium Necklace GERALDINE CARFIELD SPRING/SUMMER 2014
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Dress HERVÉ LÉGER Belt AZZEDINE ALAÏA Sunglasses LANVIN Earcuff JOANNA LAURA CONSTANTINE Necklace ETTIKA Cuff JEAN PAUL GAULTIER IN 40 | SPRING/SUMMER 2014
Dress ON AURA TOUT VU haute couture Visor HOUSE OF FLORA Earrings JOANNA LAURA CONSTANTINE Bracelets SAMANTHA WILLS Jacket CHIAOPANIC Cuff JOANNA LAURA DressCONSTANTINE ADAM ET ROPE
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Dress GIAMBATTISTA VALLI Swimsuit ERES Shoes WALTER STEIGER White Necklace GERALDINE CARFIELD Silver Necklace COURTNEY LEE COLLECTION Watch POIRAY Joaillerie Cuff & Ring GERALDINE CARFIELD IN 42 | SPRING/SUMMER 2014
Dress THAPELO Shoes CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN Necklace ETTIKA Left Hand Cuff ETTIKA Right Hand Cuff ISHARYA Right Hand Ring GAS SPRING/SUMMER 2014
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Shirt & Legging AZZEDINE ALAÏA Earrings JOANNA LAURA CONSTANTINE Necklace NACH Right Hand Cuff ISHARYA Right Hand Ring THOMAS V Left Hand Cuff JOANNA LAURA CONSTANTINE Left Hand Ring VIVEKA BERGSTROM IN 44 | SPRING/SUMMER 2014
Dress & Belt VERSACE Shoes AZZEDINE ALAÏA Earrings STELLA & DOT Tunic NOA Right Hand Cuff ISABELLE MICHEL Necklace NELLY Left Hand Cuff ETTIKA Shoes CALIGULA SPRING/SUMMER 2014
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Dress JEAN CLAUDE JITROIS Shoes JEAN PAUL GAULTIER Handbag COACH Necklace ISABELLE MICHEL Watch THOMAS SABO Handring GERALDINE CARFIELD Index Finger Ring THOMAS SABO Middle Finger Ring ISABELLE MICHEL Third Finger Ring THOMAS SABO IN 46 | SPRING/SUMMER 2014
Shirt AZZEDINE ALAÏA Earrings JOANNA LAURA CONSTANTINE Necklace NACH SPRING/SUMMER 2014
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Dress HERVÉ LÉGER Shoe AZZEDINE ALAÏA Sunglasses ROLAND MOURET Earrings JOANNA LAURA CONSTANTINE Ring SABRINA DEHOFF Bracelets SAMANTHA WILLS IN 48 | SPRING/SUMMER 2014
Top & Skirt JOHN GALLIANO Clutch CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN Earrings THOMAS SABO Long Necklace THOMAS SABO Medium Necklace GERALDINE CARFIELD Watch POIRAY Joaillerie Bracelets THOMAS SABO Ring ISABELLE MICHEL SPRING/SUMMER 2014
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Jacket & Short DSQUARED2 Shoes AZZEDINE ALAÏA Earrings JOANNA LAURA CONSTANTINE Right Hand Bracelets ETTIKA Right Hand Ring ISHARYA Left Hand Ring JOANNA LAURA CONSTANTINE Middle Finger Ring ISHARYA Third Finger Ring POIRAY Joaillerie IN 50 | SPRING/SUMMER 2014
Dress & Belt AZZEDINE ALAÏA Earrings COURTNEY LEE Collection Right Hand Ring VIVEKA BERGSTROM Left Hand Ring COURTNEY LEE Collection Shoes VERSACE SPRING/SUMMER 2014
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IN.TRENDS
ISSON Eyewear TEN YEARS OF SETTING TRENDS Words by Tosha Cole Clemens Emerging designers dream of one day having their designs grace the runway, to be on display in prestigious retail stores and acquire the admiration of customers worldwide. Being a designer is one small part of the puzzle to creating a successful brand. Most designers have a keen eye for fashion and the innovative process of conceiving a product. However, to obtain global success takes knowledge in the business side of the fashion industry. The industry is constantly evolving with new trends surfacing daily. It is fundamental that a designer establishes their own niche. ISSON Eyewear is a part of a distinct few that has accomplished just that. In 2003 Eye Candy Optics launched sunglass brand ISSON. Today the company celebrates its 10th anniversary, for which they created a collection that introduces fashion forward designs fitted with flat aspheric sun lenses. ISSON stands by the motto of creating excellent quality products with an unconventional approach to design. In addition to custom-made hinges, we can identify a unique selection of textures and patterns. Significant to note is the diverse collection of architecture-inspired frames. ISSON eyewear is able to appeal to a wide range of customers, offering a design for nearly every style imaginable. Due to this success, ISSON is available in over 26 countries. Catherine Federici, designer and company director takes us behind the scenes of creating ISSON.
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How did you start your company?
My husband Marco supported my idea and we started the business together in 2002. His involvement has been just as vital as mine, and equally instrumental in its success.
What is your company about?
To anyone who has ever made something from scratch, “Imagination Rules the World” means a lot. Every day my team and I are compelled to think in this way, to stay competitive, relevant and unique. When I loosely sketch ideas, they are raw, kooky, playful and in most cases, not manufacturable – it’s from this place that I start designing and most likely why Napoleon’s words “Imagination rules the world” resonate with me. I could be more constrained, but where’s the fun in that? So, I let my imagination rule, knowing that sometimes I’ll get it wrong, but it’s more rewarding and fun than being unoriginal and right all the time. I would describe my eyewear designs as left of centre, unpredictable yet wearable, intriguing, pieces that are fashion based but with a unique twist making them timeless, guaranteed to get a reaction and for people who are comfortable in their own skin and know who they are. To learn more about ISSON go to www.isson.com.au Overall, creating ISSON or any brand takes time and vision. Those designers that are determined and passionate will persevere.
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IN.SHOES
ANAS YOUNIS SHANAAH SHOES WITH A CULTURAL HERITAGE Words by Nagmani
Women’s relationship with shoes dates back to the prehistoric era when female Neanderthals competed over the sexiest leaf they could tie around their feet! The importance of a women’s shoes has since been conditioned into the psyche of young girls through stories like Cinderella and The Wizard of Oz, where the shoes save the girl and bring her love and happiness! Let’s not forget the queen of shoe obsession, Carrie, who starved herself skinny to spend her paychecks on Manolos and Choos! To learn more about the lure and appeal of shoes, we went to shoe-designer extraordinaire Anas Younis Shanaah who got us to the bottom of the shoe… so to speak! The famous Jordanian-born shoe designer Anas Younis Shanaah explicitly tells us what women look for in their shoes, “They want their shoes to look feminine and give them a nice sexy posture as well as a good feeling of power. Believe it or not, shoes can do that! At the same time, they have a high regard for the best quality and stability.” The exquisite incorporation of Arabic Calligraphy on striking pieces of shoes that he creates have set him apart from other designers, “I wanted to use this beautiful art form on a product in general. It was my conceptual thinking. And so be it! I then moved on to integrate it with shoes as an experiment,” he says. “I was quite elated when the experiment really paid off.” The idea of shoe design had always been lingering somewhere in his head. It was just waiting to happen in the right place at the right time. “It has always been something I considered since I had my boutique in New York City. I had a shoe and handbag store on the Upper East Side in Manhattan, and designing my own line has been a dream project since then,” says Shanaah. He really wanted to make it no matter what, working closely with factories and customizing the orders for his shop. While doing so, he realized he should start getting involved in the process as well. “I found myself guiding the design process while placing the orders. In fact, how I ended up with this particular flavor goes back to my deep roots of my culture, and the love I have for my background,” he says.
I COULDN’T BELIEVE WHAT HAD HAPPENED. ALL OF A SUDDEN AENNIS EUNIS BECAME A POPULAR BRAND. IN FACT, THE RESULTS WERE MUCH MORE ASTONISHING THAN I ANTICIPATED.” When asked why he was drawn to a career in fashion since he studied architecture, he simply said, “All by chance!” In the course of setting up his design company, he knew that it wasn’t based on fashion at all. The purpose of this enterprise was an industrial one making products and home accessories. “Switching to fashion followed an experiment which I really wanted to try and I did it on shoes given my connections in Italy and my background working in leather goods,” he recalls. “That’s when the thought of showcasing Arabic Calligraphy in a different format popped up in my head.” After Shanaah graduated with a degree in architecture, he left for Italy first and then headed to New York to pursue a career in Product Design and completed a Master’s degree in that discipline. This was the turning point in his life. Nonetheless, he still has a lot of respect for architecture, which he says,
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is a great profession and provides a great base for design in any field. “My attention to details, textures, finishing and perfection is part of being an architect.” In his case, there was a reason why he didn’t choose structural design as his career option, “For me, working in architecture meant a long and tedious process. It annoyed me. I prefer to see results of my creations within weeks or months,” he says. The Aennis Eunis brand was launched in 2009. Shanaah had no certain expectations as to how far it will go. But the turnaround that took place made it a familiar choice amongst women in a short span of time as he admits, “I couldn’t believe what had happened. All of a sudden Aennis Eunis became a popular brand. In fact, the results were much more astonishing than I anticipated.” His shoe designs created quite a stir for a reason, he explains, “My shoes – in concept – bridge between current trends you see in international markets, and a sense of cultural heritage that I add to my designs. Therefore, one can clearly trace a story behind the shoes.” There are many great designers out there, and each with their own design identity, and product quality. Shanaah wanted nothing but the best for his brand, and so, “The shoes are produced in Italy and in some of the factories that produce the best leather goods in the world,” he says. Not one for leaving any detail unchecked, Shanaah personally follows up on all stages of production to make sure that the final product is compatible with any luxury standard in the global market, “So in essence, one is getting a cross cultural product as per international luxury standards.” Another important thing that women expect their shoes to perform is to provide them with comfort, “I personally try to maintain comfort while working on aesthetics. I like when a customer says, they are comfortable.” However, what can’t be denied is that statistically, a woman buys shoes regardless of how comfortable they are.
“THE INSPIRATION IS ALWAYS THE WOMAN. WHEN THE CONCEPT OF A SHOE COMES TO LIFE, THE FIRST THING THAT COMES TO MIND IS HOW IT WOULD LOOK ON A WOMAN’S FOOT PLUS HOW IT ENHANCES THE LINES OF HER BODY.” So what inspires Shanaah’s creations? “The inspiration is always The Woman. When the concept of a shoe comes to life, the first thing that comes to mind is how it would look on a woman’s foot plus how it enhances the lines of her body.” He also adds that he even imagines the outfits she would wear with each style. If for any reason all of this isn’t clear in mind, he doesn’t take the style further. He only works on the ones he feels and believes in.
When it comes to what type of women wear his amazing creations, he knows exactly who they are. “The type of woman who appreciates my work and tries my designs is a woman who is independent, not driven by advertisements and fashion lists,” he says. “It’s even more flattering to me that a stylish woman would be wearing my shoes, because it was a decision that she made consciously.” It could be hard to pin down the secrets to creating stylish stilettos. Because it’s all about proportions, lines, relation with body posture, what you expose and how much…and how! As Shanaah says, “Good designs just happen. A good designer is the one who has that formula built in. That eye only comes with experience and time.” There is no dearth of inspiration in Shanaah’s work as what he gets inspired by is countless, “Inspiration can come from anywhere such as the old Bazaar, a novel or a poem. These inspirations come to dress up the collection so all styles have something in common,” he says. “The driver behind all my work is to create feminine lines that enhance a woman’s look and posture. In so doing, I am blessed with a rich pool of heritage background giving each collection a unique flavor.” Shanaah has been lucky enough to dress a few celebrities, but one remains to be his holy grail of shoe dressing, “I have only one in mind. And she is none other than Her Majesty Queen Rania of Jordan who is an icon of fashion and style. I chose her because she represents what my brand tries to achieve; the perfect balance between East and West.” Shanaah has many small steps planned for the future like adding new items, doing a men’s line, creating a perfume, and more, “I want my brand to be a force to reckon with internationally. I am sure I will get there soon,” he confidently proclaims. IN IN
IN.SHOES
Alejandra G. Shoe Collection FOR THE DARING, BOLD, PLAYFUL & FUN! Words by Tosha Cole Clemens
What we wear should represent who we are, what we stand for and how we want others to perceive us. Whether we realize it or not, we are judged within the first 5 seconds of meeting someone. If your personality is bold, fun, daring and adventurous, Alejandra G. is the perfect fit for you! Alejandra G. is a brand that seeks to empower the woman, for her to feel confident, and be the center of attention when she enters a room. The style is feminine with a sophisticated yet girlie feel. The colors are bold, designed to be the main accessory of your wardrobe. Alejandra G. has captured the attention of celebrity fans such as Raven-Symone, Taryn Manning, Tamera Mowry and Carly Rae Jepsen.
“ALEJANDRA IS BECOMING A NAME IN THE FASHION INDUSTRY, BEING KNOWN AS THE SHOE FOR THE FASHION FORWARD WOMAN.” So who is the girl behind this brand? Alejandra has always loved being creative. Her past experiences include being a part of a music group and being a TV producer. While she was producing, she had the opportunity of connecting with people in the fashion industry. That experience sparked the vision to pursue the dream of designing shoes. Alejandra’s first step in going after this dream was attending one of the top shoe design schools in the world, Ars Suttoria in Milan Italy. After graduating, she came back to Los Angeles and went full speed ahead creating Alejandra G. Today the company operates with a full sales team, a PR firm and assistants. Alejandra is becoming a name in the fashion industry, being known as THE shoe for the fashion forward woman. With styles ranging from studded sandals to platform pumps, this designer-to-watch has surely made a lasting impression with bold designs. By launching her first collection in 2011, Alejandra G has created attention-grabbing pieces that make an unforgettable statement when paired with any outfit. Alejandra tells IN Magazine more about the process of creating her wonderful designs.
“I DO LOVE FOLLOWING THE RUNWAY FASHION OUT OF EUROPE. I AM ALWAYS INSPIRED BY THE RUNWAY SHOWS.” What are some of your top sources of inspiration?
My inspiration is always eclectic. I can’t pinpoint anything specific. When I design, I get inspired by things I am feeling at that moment. I do love following the runway fashion out of Europe. I am always inspired by the runway shows.
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What is a typical day like?
Everyday I’m running my company. Returning emails, calling everyone from my Alejandra G team making sure everyone is handling their duties on time, I do business with my factory out of the country and I basically just think a lot. I plan and map out my next moves. I want my brand to be a household name and for every woman to own a pair of my shoes so I have to work hard and stay focused.
I LOVE ART AND ANYTHING YOU CAN BE CREATIVE WITH. I LOVE MY CUSTOMERS AND SEEING A WOMAN IN MY SHOES. What are the best and worst things about being a business owner?
It is very stressful and time consuming. My life is all about my company. I have to overlook every aspect of my company and make sure everyone is doing their job. The perk of being a business owner is that I can lay in bed all day with my laptop and do work if I want to. I am my own boss and sometimes that’s exactly what I want to do. Just lie in bed and do business from home.
What are the things you like most about your career?
Being able to express myself like an artist on a shoe. I love art and anything you can be creative with. I love my customers and seeing a woman in my shoes. It’s the most amazing feeling for people to be excited over what you created.
“I HOPE TO MAKE IT AN EMPIRE OF DIFFERENT THINGS FROM CLOTHES TO JEWELRY, HANDBAGS, PERFUME AND MEN’S SNEAKERS. ANYTHING I CAN GET CREATIVE WITH; I AM DOING IT.” What’s your philosophy of life?
Do what you love and what makes you happy so you never feel like you are actually working. And once you are doing what you love, go hard or go home. The outcome of what you receive determines how much you put into it.
What are some of your greatest accomplishments?
I would say starting my company. I jumped into this not knowing anything about running a company, especially a fashion company. I am very impressed with myself on how quickly I put it all together. I hope to make it an empire of different things from clothes to jewelry, handbags, perfume and men’s sneakers. Anything I can get creative with; I am doing it. IN
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IN.JEWELRY
WHITER SHADES OF PALE
Photography HERVÉ DUNOYER Art Direction MARIE OBERLIN Make-up CÉLINE CHARPENTIER Hair TAKAYUKI NUKUI Manucurist MISS MOJI Model QUINCY - WOMEN MANAGEMENT Model Hands SARAH - SPORTMODELS
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Necklace «COLLECTION MARIE DE MÉDICIS» MELLERIO DITS MELLER (White gold, diamonds, ruby & pearls baroque) SPRING/SUMMER 2014
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Necklace «COLLECTION MARIE DE MÉDICIS» MELLERIO DITS MELLER (White gold, diamonds, ruby & pearls baroque) Ring «LUXURIANTE COLLECTION» MÉDICIS MELLERIO DITS MELLER (White gold, diamonds & ruby) IN 60 | SPRING/SUMMER 2014
Necklace Convertible DIADEM MELLERIO DITS MELLER (White gold, diamonds, & pearls) Necklace «DIVA» BULGARI (White gold & diamond 14,70) Ring «SERPENT BOHÈME» BOUCHERON SPRING/SUMMER 2014
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Traîne De Corsage «COLLECTION MARIE DE MÉDICIS» MELLERIO DITS MELLER (White gold, pearls, emeralds & diamonds) Earring «SERPENT BOHÈME» BOUCHERON (White gold & diamonds) IN 62 | SPRING/SUMMER 2014
Necklace Convertible DIADEM MELLERIO DITS MELLER (White gold, diamonds & pearls) Earring «SERPENT BOHÈME» BOUCHERON (White gold & diamonds) Ring «LUXURIANTE COLLECTION» MELLERIO DITS MELLER (White gold, diamonds & ruby) SPRING/SUMMER 2014
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Earring «DIVA» BULGARI (Pink gold, amethyst, rubellites & diamonds 0,89 cts) Necklace «DIVA» BULGARI (Pink gold, amethyst, rubellites & diamonds 4,29 cts) Ring «DIVA» BULGARI (Pink gold & diamonds 3,15 cts) Bracelet «DIVA» BULGARI (Pink gold, améthyst, rubellites, peridots & diamonds 3,07 cts) IN 64 | SPRING/SUMMER 2014
Earring «DIVA» BULGARI (Pink gold, amethyst, rubellites & diamonds 0,89 cts) Ring ««DIVA» BULGARI (Pink gold & diamonds 3,15 cts) Bracelet «DIVA» BULGARI (Pink gold, améthyst, rubellites, peridots & diamonds 3,07 cts) Ring «SERPENT BOHÈME» BOUCHERON (White gold & diamonds) SPRING/SUMMER 2014
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Earring «DIVA» BULGARI (Pink gold, amethyst, rubellites & diamonds 0,89 cts) Necklace «DIVA» BULGARI (Pink gold, amethyst, rubellites & diamonds 4,29 cts) Ring «DIVA» BULGARI (Pink gold & diamonds 3,15 cts) Bracelet «DIVA» BULGARI (Pink gold, améthyst, rubellites, peridots & diamonds 3,07 cts) Ring «SERPENT BOHÈME» BOUCHERON (White gold & diamonds) Collier «DIVA» BULGARI (White gold & diamonds 14,70 cts)
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IN.JEWELRY
NADINE KANSO ARABIC CALLIGRAPHY ON EXQUISITE JEWELRY Words by Nagmani Arabic calligraphy has deep-rooted cultural and historical roots in Arab art, architecture, literature, design, and more. Now, Arab calligraphy has been catching on as an international trend as well. IN Magazine met with Lebanese-born jewelry designer Nadine Kanso to talk about her Arabic calligraphy-based jewelry line Bil Arabi. Currently based in Dubai, Kanso’s mind-blowing mastery over photography has been the major inspirational factor behind launching her jewelry label Bil Arabi, (which literally translates to ‘in Arabic’), in 2006. “It was my first solo show of photography that paved the way for me. My graphic designing skills and passion for calligraphy have helped me immensely in fulfilling my mission to create wondrous pieces of jewelry that people can wear and be proud of their identity at the same time,” she says.
“MY GRAPHIC DESIGNING SKILLS AND PASSION FOR CALLIGRAPHY HAVE HELPED ME IMMENSELY IN FULFILLING MY MISSION TO CREATE WONDROUS PIECES OF JEWELRY THAT PEOPLE CAN WEAR AND BE PROUD OF THEIR IDENTITY” This exhibition, she thinks, had a powerful message to send out to the outside world. As she explains, “Since it was titled Meen Ana meaning ‘Who I am’, I tried to diffuse the tension surrounding the issue of our identity and who we are post 9/11. I even raised the bar further by emphasizing that we are peace-loving people and do not in any way support sadistic ideology.” For any ordinary person, it won’t be too difficult to differentiate between jewelry and photography. But to her, these two mediums are inseparable and mean the same thing. In fact, the views that she harbors with respect to these two actually make her special, “Photography and jewelry are my means of expression and both have a signature that’s purely mine. It has that nostalgia combined with language plus it touches on sociopolitical and design aspects,” she says.
“PHOTOGRAPHY AND JEWELRY ARE MY MEANS OF EXPRESSION AND BOTH HAVE A SIGNATURE THAT’S PURELY MINE.” Kanso’s love for this art form is visible in her lovely jewelry designs, “It’s absolutely beautiful and is an art form by itself. I just love typography and Arabic gives me a chance to keep making strides in that direction. One’s intuitive potential never gets rusty if it’s put into practice time and time again,” she says. “This is how I do it.” When it comes to deciding which alphabets the shape of jewels should be shaped into, Kanso has a very clear idea, “Our brand Bil Arabi is pretty much custom made, so everyone can order their initial or name or initials of loved ones. However, I usually start with the letter Noon which is N since it’s my initial. This way I can try it and see how it fits and so on, and the best part is that I get to be the first one to wear it and keep it!”
It’s an arduous process at the end of the day; “I start by putting whatever ideas come to mind on paper first and then I sketch them in my studio. When I have the exact design in mind, I take it to the workshop where the craftsmen are eagerly waiting to see what I have got for them to work upon this time. That’s when the cutting procedure comes into play,” she says. “The next thing I do is I try it to see if it’s okay or if it needs certain changes.”
“WHEN WE TOOK PART IN F1 IN ABU DHABI AT THE VIP LOUNGE AS TO SHOWCASE OUR BRAND, MANY CELEBS LIKE EVA SIMONS, KYLIE MINOGUE, EVE, LUPE FIASCO AND MANY MORE WEARING BIL ARABI.” Asked how one’s jewelry collection helps reveal one’s true character she says, “Whatever one collects, it reflects his or her character and their liking to certain designs, patterns and colors. When you can see in a collection similarities or a point that sort of joins the pieces together, you can automatically know what those individuals like and are looking for, or what type they really are: strong, bold, romantic or simple.” Kanso has a crystal clear view of women wearing her rings, earrings, pendants and bracelets, “They are ambitious and confident for sure and love their language and culture.” Even celebs can’t resist donning her ornaments. “When we took part in F1 in Abu Dhabi at the VIP lounge as to showcase our brand, many celebs like Eva Simons, Kylie Minogue, Eve, Lupe Fiasco and many more wearing Bil Arabi,” she says. “It was absolutely incredible.” More so, her jewels strike a chord amongst her customers because of the combination of a historical yet contemporary edge. “I took the Arabic calligraphy a few steps further in terms of its use and design itself,” she says, “even then, there is more room to grow. What will remain unchanged is the vintage look of letters which you can’t beat.” When it came to sharing who her role models are in life, Kanso fondly says, “I am always touched by simple people who have seen the world yet are grounded; those who endured a lot and still have a certain faith and humility,” Kanso says.
Arab women’s fashion sensibilities are on the cutting edge according to Kanso, “They have always been fashion-savvy. We are free and we have a choice. Some of us just need to act on it and have the courage to stand and fight for what’s rightfully ours.”
“I TOOK THE ARABIC CALLIGRAPHY A FEW STEPS FURTHER IN TERMS OF ITS USE AND DESIGN ITSELF.” Kanso follows her own heart in her design aesthetic, “Be different and be yourself. While traveling, I love to sport my big rings, pendants and earrings,” she says. “It’s the best way to promote my bling! I get stopped everywhere and asked about them. So the bigger the better, it’s undoubtedly eye-catching.” IN
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IN.JEWELRY
BRITTANY WEISS
DESIGNING SOFT INDUSTRIAL FEMININE JEWELRY Words by Nagmani
With her first collection, she paid respect to the process of creation in both a physical and conceptual sense. The collection was focused on showcasing a perfect balance between urban elements and the beauty of classical design. The mechanical aspect of her designs is what really identifies her design aesthetic, “I tend to be very detail and quality-oriented and precise with my designs.” So what are the inspirations in Weiss’s world? “There are plenty. Nonetheless, I’ve always been fascinated with how things work and fit together and the manufacturing process in general. The shapes and silhouettes that I draw from the urban landscape and incorporate into my designs are very thought-out, geometric and reductive,” she explains.
“THE SHAPES AND SILHOUETTES THAT I DRAW FROM THE URBAN LANDSCAPE AND INCORPORATE INTO MY DESIGNS ARE VERY THOUGHT-OUT, GEOMETRIC AND REDUCTIVE.”
Brittany Weiss, founder of contemporary luxury jewelry line W. Britt has made a name for herself as a designer of the unconventional. With her love for all things mechanical coming across loud and clear in her designs. “My love of jewelry goes back as far as I can remember! I was always playing with my grandmother’s jewelry and my love of crafting goes back to before high school. I really had a desire to put my heart & soul into discovering the opulence of sparkling metals. You will be surprised to know that I constantly have my hands in some sort of designing,” she says. In fact, she went on to study the art of jewelry design taking classes throughout her time in college, both at Shenkar in Ramat Gan and in New York at FIT (Fashion Institute of Technology). This driven designer always had a plan: to become a jewelry designer, just ask her what else she dreamed one day of becoming and she’ll tell you, “Nothing but a designer someday and it came true when I finally made my debut with Assembly Line in the fall of last year. The response that I got was amazing,” she happily remembers.
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Her major inspiration comes from travel. She is constantly inspired by architecture, the pace of city life, and all the unique contrasting elements in the cityscape that come together to create urban harmony. “I also enjoy studying art, photography, and industrial design,” she declares, “Taking all of the inspiration that surrounds me and refining it helps me to add my own perspective, especially after many, many rounds of revisions for the designs,” says Weiss. Weiss is admittedly good at developing a symbiotic relationship between the wearer and the jewelry itself, “The reason I work on creating this affiliation is to make each woman who wears W. Britt feel confident, powerful and individual,” she explains. Weiss takes inspiration from the woman she envisions wearing the pieces and what her personal complexities might be. Asked what type of woman her beautiful designs are designed for, she says, “The W. Britt girl is full of passion. She loves fashion and is constantly in touch with the trends, but isn’t ruled by them. She likes to give them her own flair and isn’t afraid to experiment.” Her spring 2014 collection titled Raising the Bar has evolved from her first two collections and makes a bold statement while maintaining a sense of refinement. “Through this collection, I have tried to analyze and study the technique of scaffolding, an idea that
I first explored in the Hinge Cuff. I’m fascinated by the utilitarian support in scaffolding that holds the bars of the construction together,” she says. “I played with this idea while interpreting it in different shapes and designs.” While developing Raising the Bar, the architectural inspiration that she referenced for it came from the design philosophy of Le Corbusier. Why did she choose him in particular? “He was the one who redefined architecture in urban environments by using highly constructed systematic elements while remaining aware of his surroundings and how his work would relate to nature.” Based on this, she incorporated strong lines in Raising the Bar that enhance the beauty and softness of the feminine form when worn. “I love the play of hard and soft and mixed materials, and I plan on developing that concept further in future collections,” she says. “It was a sublime effort of mine as part of my design to focus on more overtly feminine and delicate designs especially in color, choice and shape.” She added that it aligned well with her sentiments about spring & summer where she is drawn to the ease as well as the wearability factor in jewelry whereas all of the pieces in Assembly Line are season-less and can be worn together to create a new effect.
“I LOVE THE PLAY OF HARD AND SOFT AND MIXED MATERIALS, AND I PLAN ON DEVELOPING THAT CONCEPT FURTHER IN FUTURE COLLECTIONS.” Weiss makes her designs using a wide range of materials, “I utilize 18k yellow gold, rhodium, rose gold, and ruthenium plate on bronze, with semi-precious stones like black onyx, lapis, turquoise, howlite, carnelian, amazonite, and rose quartz. I also have branched out into more natural elements like bone.” So who does this innovative designer admire? Who are her role models? “I have many, but Miuccia Prada is probably the person I look up to the most.” Pretty clear about where she wants to see her brand in the years ahead, Weiss declares, “My main goal at the moment is to continue to develop my collections. I aim to expand and grow, branching out into other fashion accessories as well as industrial objects. I love the creative process and would love to delve into it as much as possible.” IN
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IN.JEWELRY
Edgy Modern Vintage SABINE GHANEM ON HER JEWELRY DESIGNS Words by Nagmani
Designing jewelry is an art that requires an in depth understanding of culture and history. Swiss-born Londonbased jewelry designer Sabine Ghanem’s pieces certainly convey a richness and depth. She balances an antique touch with young, playful and refined attributes giving her jewelry a singular identity. In an exclusive interview with IN Magazine, she talks about her love of jewelry and her art.
When did you realize your love for jewelry design? I always loved jewelry but I never imagined I would be doing it as a business! I am happy things have gone well for me. It’s just wonderful.
What do you love the most about it?
Jewelry is timeless. It stays forever and can be passed on through generations.
What inspires your ideas?
I come upon my ideas from the past, from people I admire, from various cultures and eras. There is a lot to be inspired by.
“JEWELRY IS TIMELESS. IT STAYS FOREVER AND CAN BE PASSED ON THROUGH GENERATIONS.” What are some of the things that provide instantaneous inspiration?
I would say people. It’s yes or no, it’s very simple. After that, it’s music. The effect of which is instantaneous. So I am very much a fan of opera music. It’s quite scintillating.
What makes your jewelry designs unique and different?
I hope they are unique and I know they are different because they are only my interpretation and no one else’s.
In what way has your upbringing given a vital touch to what you do?
I think my Middle Eastern origins have allowed me a certain generosity in my designs. More is more! And more is beautiful.
“I COME UPON MY IDEAS FROM THE PAST, FROM PEOPLE I ADMIRE, FROM VARIOUS CULTURES
AND ERAS.” How would you describe your jewels? Are they chic or vintage in style?
They do have a strong antique feel but they are also young, playful, elegant and refined. How do you decide which shapes are more perfect than others? It is something that the reason can’t explain. There is something in the eye. Your eye and then your feelings tell you if you have created a harmonious shape or not. It’s pretty much intuitive.
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What stones and materials do you use in the making of your treasured items?
I use gold. I used Rose gold for my first collection and for the second collection I went for gold without any Rhodium. I played with many stones for the Harlequin collection. I used diamonds, emeralds, and rubies, blue, yellow and pink sapphires.
Did you go to any jewelry design institute? If yes, what was your experience like and what did you learn there?
I went to GIA in New York. It was a great experience. I can’t tell you how useful it is to know how to grade a stone.
What do women look for in their jewelry?
From my perspective, women look for three important things: confidence, glamour, and elegance in their jewels. It’s believed to be an enhanced second skin.
“WOMEN LOOK FOR THREE IMPORTANT THINGS: CONFIDENCE, GLAMOUR, AND ELEGANCE IN THEIR JEWELS.” Who are these women wearing your designs?
They are certainly independent women who love to buy their own jewelry. Their attitude toward life is all about having fun, being extravagant, and hence it’s always classic mother or daughter.
What are the secrets to creating priceless jewels? I believe its timelessness. If you work on it with utter passion, it will never age.
What celebrities have donned your jewelry, and whom would you like to see in your jewelry?
I have been lucky enough to have Celine Dion, Daphne Guinness, and Emma Watson wear my pieces. However, my dream is to have my jewelry on Cate Blanchett. My dream changes every day but today that’s the only dream I have.
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Tell us about your latest collection Harlequin; what inspired it?
I wanted to have fun in this second collection and play with jewelry. It is inspired by the art deco era and also by women I admire such as Marisa Berenson and Catherine Deneuve. It also has a 60’s feel with bold colors and funny shapes.
CELINE DION, DAPHNE GUINNESS, AND EMMA WATSON WEAR MY PIECES. HOWEVER, MY DREAM IS TO HAVE MY JEWELRY ON CATE BLANCHETT. MY DREAM CHANGES EVERY DAY BUT TODAY THAT’S THE ONLY DREAM I HAVE. Where do your designs come to life?
Everything is done at the atelier in Florence, Italy. They only leave the atelier once they are fully completed.
What are your future goals?
Well, I look forward to bringing more creations and at the same time having more fun, and hopefully I will have my own store soon. IN
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IN.BEAUTY
YOSH HAN SCENT OF A WOMAN Words by Nagmani The perfume industry is a multi-billion dollar industry, and for good reason. Yosh Han, founder of Yosh Olfactory Sense, has a spiritual take on perfumery, and she has become one of the most influential players in the perfume market around San Francisco where she lives. There are certain qualities that her eau de parfum products are best known for, one of which are their healing powers. Celebrities like Nicole Kidman, Kate Hudson, Michelle Pfeiffer and Naomi Watts have adorned Han’s fragrances, so who is Han and how does it feel to have achieved such success? “It feels wonderful. I am a vibrational perfumer,” declares Han, “therefore, my fragrances do have an energetic component to them. They aren’t intended as aromatherapy but certainly, my perfumes resonate with people spiritually.”
“CELEBRITIES LIKE NICOLE KIDMAN, KATE HUDSON, MICHELLE PFEIFFER AND NAOMI WATTS HAVE ADORNED HAN’S FRAGRANCES.” Asked what makes her fragrances different from the French rivals that rule the roost with the big names like Chanel, Christian Dior and Guerlain, she says, “Classically trained French perfumers are focused on the olfactive structure of their creations. In my case, it’s a bit different. My philosophy takes into consideration the energetic resonance of each perfume.”
“CLASSICALLY TRAINED FRENCH PERFUMERS ARE FOCUSED ON THE OLFACTIVE STRUCTURE OF THEIR CREATIONS. IN MY CASE, IT’S A BIT DIFFERENT. MY PHILOSOPHY TAKES INTO CONSIDERATION THE ENERGETIC RESONANCE OF EACH PERFUME.” That she chose the path to become a perfumer was not a coincidence at all. Her mother is an expert in the field of Ikebana, the beautiful Japanese art of arranging flowers. Not surprisingly, Han grew up among flowers. “The desire to see myself as a perfumer struck me when I walked into a store in Aspen, Colorado in 1994 and saw a wall of bottles,” she says. “I didn’t know what kind of store it was, only that I was mesmerized and inspired. After that, I didn’t wait but just talked my way into a job even though they weren’t hiring.” Han uses both a range of natural and science based essences in the making of her perfumes. Nonetheless, there are some ingredients that she holds very dear to her heart.
For example, she prefers to use Ylang-Ylang (the most popular flower in perfumery) for her fragrances because it’s really bright and tropical. She also loves sandalwood because it has such richness and complexity. One more herb that she can’t miss is delightful ginger; “Ginger is a favorite of mine because of its exotic and stimulating properties. I source all of my ingredients globally.” One of her most popular signature scents is Ginger Ciao which women have embraced with a bang. This fragrance is geared towards independent, charismatic women with a vivacious attitude. But how does Han predict what scents will be a hit with her customer? “While developing my fragrances, I never think of them having a gender twist. So when I create a new perfume, I only hope people will be able to buy it no matter what.” As for naming her perfumes, Han puts a lot of creative flair, and deep thought into that process, “I think names have so much to do with a fragrance so giving a lot of thought to them as well has tremendous impact,” explains Han. “Sometimes the names come first and other times, the fragrances are created first and then named afterwards.” Take her Aromascapes collection as an example, it invokes a breezy California feel; or Angeleno, which illicits a glam Hollywood mood, or Zuma inspired by a laid back Malibu beach, there is also Monteleno conveying a relaxed Napa Valley sophistication, and Sea Ranch, which takes its wearer all the way to the Sonoma Coast.
“GINGER IS A FAVORITE OF MINE BECAUSE OF ITS EXOTIC AND STIMULATING PROPERTIES. I SOURCE ALL OF MY INGREDIENTS GLOBALLY.” As she looks forward to expanding her offerings globally, it couldn’t have been a better time for her to launch her brand in the Middle East, “To do so, I chose Dubai because it’s such a fabulous retail environment with a rich history and culture of fragrance. And I have really enjoyed growing my business in this region,” she says. “So far, the Middle East has been very receptive. It’s really exciting for me to be stocked in a market that appreciates perfume.” When she launched her perfumes in Dubai, Han was quite a busy woman; “I had 10 ten days of retail and press events last year in the spring time and it was a great success.” Han is also an aura reader, and she shares her gift with clients who make special appointments with her. During these sessions, Han custom-blends scents for her clients that reinvigorate their state of mind based on their energy fields. And she uses this insightful intuition when making her signature scents and blends, her secret? “Only passion. It’s a key ingredient in creating art. Without it, you can’t.” IN
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IN.FEATURE
UN HOLY ONE AMATO COUTURE
Photography TINA PATNI Hair JOJO DANTESPADUA Make-up GENE GINNO ALDUCENTE
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WILD BEAUTY
Photography MICHEL BONINI Creative Direction & Stylist MICKAEL CARPIN Make-up & Hair STÉPHANE DUSSART Model CINDY BRUNA - METROPOLITAN AGENCY PARIS
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Pull-over JEAN CHARLES DE CASTELBAJAC Cuff ALEXIS MABILLE
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Dress JEAN CHARLES DE CASTELBAJAC Boots ALAIN QUILICI FOR DAVID KOMA IN 90 | SPRING/SUMMER 2014
Dress CAROLINE SEIKALY Gloves Paul KA SPRING/SUMMER 2014
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Jacket & Pants JOSEPH FONT Harness ZANA BAYNE Shoes CINDY GLASS IN 92 | SPRING/SUMMER 2014
Pull-over JEAN CHARLES DE CASTELBAJAC Skirt JEAN CHARLES DE CASTELBAJAC Boots ALAIN QUILICI FOR DAVID KOMA SPRING/SUMMER 2014
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Harness ZANA BAYNE Cuff PHILIPPE FERRANDIS IN 94 | SPRING/SUMMER 2014
Jacket & Pants JOSEPH FONT Harness ZANA BAYNE SPRING/SUMMER 2014
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PRINTED EQUATION
Photography REBECCA SCHWEINS Creative Direction & Stylist MICKAEL CARPIN Make-Up STEPHANE DUSSART Models TERENCE TELLE - YOUR ANGEL MODEL/IMG NEW-YORK/SUCCESS PARIS
Headpiece PERLENSÄUE Leather Collar & Leather Top SCHWARZER REITER Capri Pants FIRMA BERLIN Shoes ZARA WOMAN
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Pants & Jacket KRIS VAN ASSCHE Shirt PAUL & JOE Snakers & Bag GUISEPPE ZANOTTI Watch & Socks DIESEL Bracelets DJULA Necklace ANNA PELLISSARI Hat CABLEAMI SPRING/SUMMER 2014
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Shirt VERSUS VERSACE Jacket DIRK BIKKEMBERGS Short BACKLASH Necklace BERNARD DELETTREZ Boots JEAN BAPTISTE RAUTUREAU Socks ETRO Glasses EMMANUELLE KHANH Bag SALVATORE FERRAGAMO Cuffs PHILIPPE FERRANDIS IN 98 | SPRING/SUMMER 2014
Jacket DSQUARED2 Shirt AGNÈS B Pants ISSEY MIYAKE MEN Belt GUISEPPE ZANOTTI Hat MAISON MICHEL Necklace PHILIPPE FERRANDIS Cuffs & Ring DINH VAN SPRING/SUMMER 2014
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Coat Y-3 Shirt VERSUS VERSACE Plastron Necklace MICHAEL KORS Cap NEW ERA IN 100 | SPRING/SUMMER 2014
Shirt & Hat ETRO Bolero MELINDA GLOSS Pants DIESEL Shoes JEAN BAPTISTE RAUTUREAU Bag DSQUARED2 Left Hand Cuff PHILIPPE FERRANDIS Left Hand Ring BERNARD DELETTREZ Right Hand Cuff MICHAEL KORS Right Hand Ring URSUL PARIS SPRING/SUMMER 2014
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Shirt APRIL77 T-shirt without Sleeves ALIBELLUS+ Pants BALLY Basket RAF SIMONS FOR ADIDAS Hat MAISON MICHEL Necklace PHILIPPE FERRANDIS Scarf ESSENTIEL Socks BURLINGTON SPRING/SUMMER 2014
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Shirt IKKS MEN Pants ALIBELLUS+ Sneakers GUISEPPE ZANOTTI Bag JEAN BAPTISTE RAUTUREAU Hat CABLEAMI Scarf MERMI Left Hand Bracelets LES PERLES DE NOAH Right Hand Bracelets DINH VAN SPRING/SUMMER 2014
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CURIOSITY KILLS
Photography NIKOLAI DE VERA Stylist FRANCIS URRUTIA Hair STEFANI ANNALIESE Make-up SHUHEI UCHIDA Model KRISTI - Q MODEL MANAGEMENT NY
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Hat OPI Blouse BDG Jacket CHEAY ROCHELL Vest MILANI SPRING/SUMMER 2014
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Hat OPI Blouse CACHE Dress EREMY SCOTT Belt OPI Jacket CHEAY ROCHELL Trousers FOREVER 21 Shoes JEFFREY CAMPBELL IN 108 | SPRING/SUMMER 2014
Blouse TOUST Jacket ECAILLE PARIS Vest OZZY BEAN Belt OPI Dress KRISTIN COSTA Trousers BUTCH DIVA Shoes JEFFREY CAMPBELL SPRING/SUMMER 2014
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Hat OPI Dress CHEAY ROCHELLE Jacket ANDREW TONY Vest MILANI Skirt MADE WITH LOVE Trousers BDG Shoes JEFFREY CAMPBELL
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Hat OPI Blouse VERSACE Tank MOSCHINO Jean Jacket ANNA SUI Jacket MILANI Belt OPI Skirt KRISTIN COSTA Trousers TRIPP NYC Shoes JEFFREY CAMPBELL
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HOW CAN I FORGET Photography REBECCA SCHWEINS Creative Direction & Stylist MICKAEL CARPIN Make-up STÉPHANE DUSSART Hair YUMIKO HIKAGE Manucurist BÉATRICE ÉNI Model JONATHAN JENVRIN Location 15 CLUB PARIS
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Jacket DIESEL BLACK GOLD Cap ON AURA TOUT VU Necklaces THOMAS SABO Earring NACH SPRING/SUMMER 2014
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Pants & Vest ISABEL BENENATO Shoes MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA Harness ZANA BAYNE Bibi Murmure SPIRIT Earring BERNARD DELETTREZ Right Hand Cuff ANNA PELLISSARI Left Hand Watch HUGO BOSS Left Hand Cuff ETTIKA Socks FALKE IN 114 | SPRING/SUMMER 2014
Harness ON AURA TOUT VU Shirt, pants & Belt DIRK BIKKEMBERGS Cap MURMURE BY SPIRIT Brooch ARGUMENT Ring THOMAS V SPRING/SUMMER 2014
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Jacket MICHAEL KORS Shirt ALIBELLUS+ Swim Trunk RON DORFF Shoes EMPORIO ARMANI Bag CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN Glasses G-STAR RAW Earcuff DSQUARED2 Necklace GILBERT GILBERT Watch HUGO BOSS Cuff & Rings:THOMAS V
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Shirt DSQUARED2 Jacket JEAN CLAUDE JITROIS Bermuda FENDI Bag ZILLI Earcuff DSQUARED2 Short Necklace NACH Medium Necklace ETTIKA Long Necklace SAMANTHA WILLS Right Hand Cuff ANNA PELLISSARI Right Hand Rings THOMAS V Left Hand Bangles SAMANTHA WILLS Left Hand Rings THOMAS SABO Socks FALKE Shoes JOHN GALLIANO
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Wet suit ON AURA TOUT VU Jacket JEAN CLAUDE JITROIS Sneakers CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN Cap TIQUETONNE Earcuff JOANNA LAURA CONSTANTINE Cuff link BULGARI Necklace NACH Right Hand Watch BULGARI Right Hand Ring JOANNA LAURA CONSTANTINE Left Hand Double Ring THOMAS V Left Hand Rings ISABELLE MICHEL IN 118 | SPRING/SUMMER 2014
Jacket KOMAKINO Sweat NACO PARIS Pants CHRISTIAN PELLIZZARI Sneakers & Bag CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN Plastron ISABELLE MICHEL Left Hand Cuff ISABELLE MICHEL Left Hand Ring BIJULES Right Hand Cuff ARGUMENT RightHand Double Ring BERNARD DELETTREZ SPRING/SUMMER 2014
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Jacket JEAN CLAUDE JITROIS Archive Shorts BRIONI Boots ON AURA TOUT VU Glasses ZILLI Earrings NACH Cuff PATRICK MOULIN IN 120 | SPRING/SUMMER 2014
Pants JOHN GALLIANO Harness ZANA BAYNE Belt & Sneakers: ZILLI Cap NEW ERA Earcuff JOANNA LAURA CONSTANTINE Sort Necklace THOMAS SABO Long Necklace THOMAS V Watch & Bracelets THOMAS SABO Ring NACH
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IN.SHOOTS
ONE MINUTE TO MIDNIGHT
Photography BERNHARD MUSIL www.be-musil.com Photography Assistant SALOME GHAZANFARI Stylist STEFANIE SCHWAIGER - LES ARTISTS Hair SACHA SCHUETTE - BIGOUDI Make-up CHRISSIE MOISSL - ACE FURY COLLECTIVE Models MANOUCHE BOUCHAIN - TUNE MODEL MANAGEMENT AND KIM ACKERMANN - THE SPECIAL
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Top CHEAP MONDAY Jacket ADIDAS SPRING/SUMMER 2014
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Hoodie BEASTIN Leggins AUGUSTIN TEBOUL IN 124 | SPRING/SUMMER 2014
Shirt NIKE Pants LAEND PHUENGKIT SPRING/SUMMER 2014
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Jacket LEVI’S Pants LEVI’S Bandeau KIDNEY KAREN
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Shirt JENNY GRETTVE Overall MTWTFSS/HE
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IN.SHOOTS
NEO HIPSTER
Photography MUNSIF MOLU Stylist SAM KIENTSCH Model DJORDJE PRELEVIC
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Denim Jacket RALPH LAUREN Jeans CHEAP MONDAY Sunglasses WEST LA High Top Leather Sneakers PUMA BY HUSSEIN CHALAYAN SPRING/SUMMER 2014
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T-shirt, Tank & Sunglasses WEST LA Jeans CHEAP MONDAY
Knit Top ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Pants WEST LA SPRING/SUMMER 2014
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T-shirt ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Metallic Loose Knit Top, Printed Shorts & Hat WEST LA IN 132 | SPRING/SUMMER 2014
Leather & Wool Coat BELSTAFF Knitted Kimono Sweater, Jeans, Sunglasses & Shoes WEST LA SPRING/SUMMER 2014
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Blazer ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Trousers ARMANI Vest WEST LA IN 134 | SPRING/SUMMER 2014
Jeans CHEAP MONDAY Loose Knit Top & Shoes WEST LA SPRING/SUMMER 2014
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THE EVOLUTION OF LOVE
IN.FOCUS
ONE WOMAN’S STORY OF JOHNNY DEPP & DIRTY DIAPERS Words by Nahla Samaha Different cultures across all historical eras have tried to capture the true essence of love through art, the written word, wild gestures-turned-legendary tales, and more. Often a notion associated with loss, sacrifice, and pain, love still remains THE most coveted and sought after experience in all of humanity and history in its entirety. Not too much of a grand claim if you think about it. Everything always boils down to love. What did many historians say about Hitler? “He was never loved enough.” About Cleopatra? “She had too many lovers.” About Romeo & Juliet? “The closest a literary work ever came to capturing love on paper.” Okay… so maybe no historians ever really said any of those things verbatim… not credible ones at least. But do you really see Hitler getting lots of hugs a child? There is a reason after all that all worldly religions promote the idea of love, unconditional love, because love truly and ultimately does indeed save lives. So let me tell you about my own evolution of love. It is one that began on 21 Jump Street, the original – and yes I am that old… and ended with a pile of dirty diapers. Not quite how evolution should work, or is it? Twelve year-old me fell in total desperate love with Johnny Depp’s nonchalant gaze and dark wild mane back when he was the Ryan Gosling of the late 80s and early 90s. (Mind you I’m a 30-something now - a hot one who looks 20 something – who’s transferred my fan-girl obsessions to Ryan Gosling… you’re never too old!). Depp had a careless attitude that made pre-pubescent girls swoon and fantasize. A Rebel Without A Clue immortalized in a Tom Petty music video. A James Dean of our time, who swam against the current, wore rebel-y outfits and would never get your parents approval… in other words, the perfect man. Love at the time was something I lived in my mind and in my imagination, and the beauty of youth was that nothing, literally nothing seemed impossible. Did I believe that Johnny Depp would find me and fall madly and deeply in love with me? Yes. Did it seem absurd and slightly psychotic? Not. One. Bit. The beauty of love, or the idea of love in my mind, was that it made the impossible possible. And that is not far removed from reality, in fact, that is the power of love. It is a transformative power that can bring about immense change. Whether you have so much love that you give to children, or so much love that drives you to campaign and raise funds for a charity, or so much love that you right the most epic love song that touches the hearts of many, or so much love that you fight for someone, or lots of someones. Of course back then I didn’t think about any of that, just my inevitable, and not at all ludicrously far-fetched, happy ending with Johnny Depp. As a matter of fact, in retrospect, back then love was an entirely selfish and self-centered
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thing. It never crossed my mind that Johnny Depp may or may not like me, or that he would actually have a say in whether we end up together or not. In my mind’s elaborate production of the romantic comedy we would live together, Johnny Depp was a prop, a non-talking part. As I got older, relationships got more real. In every sense of the word. Everything got more real. I guess that comes with age, “maturity”, experience, and so on. Slowly Johnny Depp started becoming an endearing childhood memory, gradually being replaced with harsher things like work and bills, and ticking biological clocks. As I sauntered, and sometimes staggered through life, I fell in love, got married, and eventually had a set of twin girls. And that was when everything, and I mean everything, I ever knew, or thought I knew about love was forever redefined. Turned upside down. Flipped inside out. Churned in a blender. Up until that point, I had never known love to be all-consuming, terrifying, and monumental. Of course it doesn’t hit you the second you see your newborn like they show you in the movies, it’s not a magical moment of falling in love. And I challenge any mother who says otherwise! The first few moments of seeing and holding your child are a muddle of emotions, mostly dominated by fear! The real grand unyielding, uncompromising, unworldly love you feel for your child develops slowly. And just when you think you will burst with love, it keeps getting more intense, and more powerful that you sometimes wish you could escape its shackles!! It is the most possessive thing to ever lay its hands on you. Your love for your child owns you… forever. The second my now 3-year-old girls go to bed, I start missing them with a chest ache so palpable and so determined. So I start flipping through my phone pictures and videos of them, and my husband and I lose ourselves in watching them on my small iPhone screen, our faces glued to each other’s, competing for the better view of the phone. It’s beautifully unhealthy. It’s a bizarrely sadomasochistic love because you’re literally and metaphorically tugged in every which way all day, the energy sucked out of you, your emotions running high, your body functioning on very little sleep… but you crave it and want it and are miserable without it. I would not trade this love for any other kind of love in the world. Not for Johnny Depp… or for Ryan Gosling (ok, maybe for Ryan Gosling, if he adopts my girls… sorry honey!), or for all the money in the world! I would take dirty diapers over Johnny Depp any day! (or Johnny Depp IN a dirty diaper? Hmmmm….) No, no, no, I would gladly take my girls’ poop over anything and anyone! Sorry Johnny, I will have to keep you safely tucked away with my 12 year-old self. And in the meantime, I will revel in this awesome and splendid love like no love I’ve ever known before. Thank you Johnny Depp. IN
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IN.FOCUS
THIS IS NOT A CLICHÉ ARTICLE! Words by Suzanne Al Wattar We all know that roses are an expression of love, but we don’t know how it all started. We know that the bigger the teddy bear the more he loves you, but do we know why we think that bears – extremely dangerous animals – are a “cute” symbol of love? Every girl dreams of the day her man gets on one knee and asks for her hand in marriage, but we wouldn’t we still say “I do” if he proposed standing up? Romeo climbed up Juliet’s balcony and eventually killed himself, to say I love you. Today a simple “I ♥ U” text is poetic enough for us. Love has evolved as humans did, but the things that used to matter to us are now cursed with practicality and the connotation of “cliché”! Google says that clichés are an opinion or a phrase that has been overused and betrays a lack of original thought. But, believe it or not, every cliché was once an original thought…
Back to 2014, the Teddy Bear is a star in every child’s imagination, and one of the highest selling items on Valentine’s Day! I do… Like You on One Knee! A lot of girls long for marriage, not just for the wedding, or the living together forever, or even the wedding dress…They actually long for that moment, where the prideful muscular man kneels before his lady to ask for her hand in marriage presenting a ring that blinds with sparkle. Not every girl gets to have that moment, but study suggests that a romantic proposal is more likely to guarantee an approval from the bride, rather than a simple “Hey lets get hitched!”
I♥U Unfortunately a heart is just an organ inside a human body that pumps blood and beats until you no longer breathe. It looks like a bloody pear with pipes hanging out. It doesn’t break, it doesn’t feel anything, it just sits there all day pumping blood and beating fast. The heart shape known today is a symbol of intense emotions. We often hear the phrases, “broken heart,” and “big heart” referring to the emotions of an individual rather than the organ it-self.
Why is this moment so special? Who was the first man to kneel before the love of his life? And most importantly, why do girls love it so much? It’s the cliché that no one minds; it’s a symbol of submission and respect. No evidence in history proves who and why the first man knelt before a woman to ask for her hand in marriage. There are three different interpretations behind kneeling. In religion, kneeling is often used in form of prayer in several religious practices. In battles and wars of the old centuries, bowing or kneeling is understood as a form of surrender to the victorious enemy. As for royalty, knights would kneel before their kings while being awarded with honors.
The first known depiction of a heart as a symbol of romantic love dates to the 1250s. It occurs in a miniature decorating a capital S in a manuscript of the French Roman de la poire (National Library FR MS. 2086, plate 12). In the miniature, a kneeling lover (or more precisely, an allegory of the lover’s “sweet gaze” or douz regart) offers his heart to a damsel. The heart here resembles a pine-cone (held “upside-down”, the point facing downward), in accord with medieval anatomical descriptions.
While today, more than 40% of all proposals are made on bended knee, admittedly, most women prefer a kneeling proposal. This puts the woman in an exalted position, creating the feeling of respect and gratitude for her honor. Whether it’s a proposal on bended knee, or in a more creative, unique fashion, the meaning is the symbolism of respect, commitment and honor for both people. Expected or surprised, the proposal is a revered event in marriage and life.
The “wounded heart” indicating love sickness came to be depicted as a heart symbol pierced with an arrow (Cupid’s), or a heart symbol “broken” in two or more pieces. The use of the heart symbol as a logograph for the English verb “to love” derives from the use in “I ♥ NY”, introduced in 1977.
Roses are Love … Violets are Enchantment We all know that red roses are given to express love and passion, in fact red is the international color of Valentine’s Day during which roses are unavoidable. This is nothing new; in fact roses are an ancient symbol of love and beauty. The rose was sacred to a number of goddesses including Isis, whose rose appears in the late classical allegorical novel The Golden Ass as, “The sweet Rose of reason and virtue,” that saves the hero from his bewitched life in the form of a donkey. The ancient Greeks and Romans identified the rose with the goddess of love, Aphrodite (Greek name) and Venus (Roman name).
Teddy’s Dead Bear! One must wonder how such a dangerous animal as the bear became a symbol of love and affection throughout the years. In fact the Teddy Bear, single handedly introduced stuffed animals to the toy industry. However, bears weren’t always cute and stuffed. Theodore Roosevelt served as the 26th president of the United States of America from 1901 till 1909. He was known for his radical ideologies and his famous phrase “Speak softly and carry a big stick,” which eventually earned him a Nobel Peace Prize. Better yet, Theodore Roosevelt was known as “Teddy”! In November 1902, “Teddy” was invited to a bear-hunting trip by Mississippi governor Andrew H. Longino. The trip was more like a competition, where men competed in hunting the most number of animals. Teddy the president was accompanied by his usual entourage that made sure he looked his best at all time. So when almost every other man on the tip had already killed an animal or two, the president’s entourage cornered, clubbed, and tied an American Black bear to a willow tree, so that Teddy can kill it. However, Teddy refused to killing the poor animal deeming this unsportsmanlike, but he did order his men to kill it and “Put it out of its’ misery.” Soon enough the story became a topic for political cartoon, which in turn inspired Morris Michtom (a toymaker and founder of Ideal Novelty and Toy Co.), to make a stuffed bear and call it “Teddy’s bear”. IN 138 | SPRING/SUMMER 2014
In Rome a wild rose would be placed on the door of a room where secret or confidential matters were discussed. The phrase sub rosa, or “under the rose”, means to keep a secret — derived from this ancient Roman practice.Soon enough roses developed their own language. Each color came to represent a different emotion. Red is Love, white is purity, yellow is friendship, pink is gratitude, orange is desire, lavender in enchantment…and so on. Like it or not, roses will always be here, decorating our homes and lives. Roses evolved from being an expression of emotion into a full-blown industry. From weddings to funerals, roses speak a thousand emotions. Love is not earned nor learned, but instinctively felt. We ache for love like we do shelter, it’s the heart’s utmost desired sensation, its humanity’s most valuable victory, and god’s gift to nature. Some people might claim that “True Love” vanished along with those who wrote their stories, but forever love stays, connecting people and giving meaning to life. No matter cliché or what the story behind it is, love will always be fueling us with life. IN
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IN.DESIGN
THE FOBE HOUSE
Lunar Landscape or Marrakesh Mirage? Words by Rosemary Ricchio
Architect Guilhem Eustache walked into his first meeting with client Dimitri de Clercq and his family, tossed a handful of threedimensional geometric figures on the table and said, “Here’s your house. Play with it!” Expecting traditional blueprints and drawings, de Clercq was, admittedly, at first baffled. But his father immediately got into it. Soon they were all merrily pushing those squareand rectangular-shaped blocks around the table and letting their imaginations soar.
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Indeed, for all the stark, minimal formality of Eustache’s ultimate design, there is something wonderfully playful about the Fobe House. Almost magical. It was subsequently built on the outskirts of Marrakesh, Morocco, set against the spectacular backdrop of the Atlas Mountains. Dozens of magazine articles heralding the architect’s inventiveness have likened the compound to Stonehenge; Giorgio de Chirico’s surrealist paintings; the gigantic sundials at the Jantar Mantar observatory in India; the Casa Malaparte on the isle of Capri (the centerpiece of Jean-Luc Godard’s film Contempt); Donald Judd’s land art sculptures; Berber villages; and the Apollo 11 moon-landing crater. Quite a range of references… So we can agree that the house is evocative. And it’s well on its way to becoming iconic. Yet what I find most fascinating about the structure is the way it plays with illusion and perception, and the way its treasures unfold gradually, revealing themselves one by one, on a temporal journey. While the space can certainly be observed and appreciated from a distance, as a formal arrangement of stark shapes on a vast, spare landscape, the beauty of the architecture itself has to be experienced. Like a mythological siren or the femme fatale in a film noir, the Fobe House almost teases you, seduces you, gradually reeling you in. Eustache has retained his initial building-block modules, constructing them out of locally sourced materials. Even here he plays with our perceptions. While the structures look austere, white and ultramodern, they actually incorporate clay and tadelakt (a waterproof lime plaster long used in Moroccan palaces and hammams). He wanted, “To establish a close dialogue with the land, the vegetation and the mountains,” which eventually included planting more than 500 eucalyptus, olive and fruit trees. The architect also employed traditional building techniques that adapt to the particular climatic concerns of the region. In fact, the house is so well acclimatized that the owner only needs to heat the house about ten days every year, on the coldest winter nights. More astonishingly, he only switches on the air conditioning ten to fifteen days per year, in the summer. And that’s in the heat of the Sahara Desert. The house is approached from a narrow dirt road that runs along the edge of the property. Then you drive past three stelae structures, serving as a kind of “gate” to the premises, and three smaller structures — two intersecting cubes, the guard house; a long, narrow cuboid, a combination 2-car garage/carport; and an extremely tall, totem-like outdoor fireplace. Here we are definitely in lunar landscape territory… yet in the middle of the desert, and with every element serving a supremely functional purpose. Approaching the house itself is even more of a trip. From a distance, the façade looks like a flat white wall — like an incongruous drive-in screen in the middle of this arid no-man’s-land. De Clercq, the owner, who is a film producer and director, has actually had fantasies about projecting movies on it.
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Main House, Longitudinal Section Š Guilhem Eustache
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Main House, Tranverse section Š Guilhem Eustache
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But as you move closer, that wall literally “opens up” and you find that, like a kaleidoscope, what you thought was a single wall is actually three staggered walls — or “sails,” as one writer put it — one slightly taller than the next, with narrow openings between them. While the first wall is solid, the second is striated with seven vertical cutout shapes. As you move around the corner, the walls continue to unfold and you discover a cutout grid of tiny windows tucked deeper into the third wall. Solids, lines, grids… the geometric forms evolve before your very eyes. Edging your way around the corner of the house, and the left edge of the façade, you find yourself facing the main entrance to the Fobe House. Which brings yet another revelation — those narrow openings between the walls are, in fact, secret passages to its hidden gems. A slender stairway sandwiched between the first and second walls leads to the roof and a view overlooking the entire property. The front door stands between the second and third walls. And at the foot of the entire entrance, completing the outline of the dwelling’s rectangular shape, is a pool of turquoise water — complete with suspended “moat” — leading to the entrance. If you are lucky enough to ring the bell (or cry, “Open Sesame”) and have that door swing open to you, you would instantly have a view clear across the length of the entire house — through the winter living room, sliding glass doors and a small terrace built around a stately palm — and out the opposite end of that long cuboid. And like any femme fatale worth her salt, while the exterior presents a cool aloof side, luring you in, the interior coaxes you back out, toward the desert sun… and a veritable oasis. Going back to my building-block theory, the principal Fobe House is basically comprised of two rectangular forms, perpendicular to one another, creating an overall T-shape. The first is the house itself, which contains two living rooms, a kitchen, two bedrooms and two full baths. The second rectangle, almost equal in size to the house, is the swimming pool. And the back of the house presents a very different face indeed. The summer living room, the largest room in the house, sits at its very center and is lined with glass doors to the long terrace that stretches across the back of the house. While the façade to the northwest is practically devoid of windows, the southeast wall embraces the blazing
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desert sun with open arms. And the summer living room is blessed with an expansive view of cool-blue water in that seemingly endless swimming pool. The pool itself is quite striking, its water like a sheet of glass absolutely parallel to the cut stone that lines its edges and flows seamlessly into the terrace pavement. Those stone walkways that wrap around the pool and the entire back of the house are actually cantilevered out and hover 50 centimeters above the ground, creating yet another illusion — that the house and pool, like a mirage or a flying carpet, are floating above the desert earth. But the ultimate illusion stands proudly at the opposite end of the swimming pool. There, rising right out of the water, Eustache built a stairway… to nowhere. Or to paradise. It’s very odd. The bleacher-like structure is certainly functional. It’s a wonderful spot for drying off or sunning yourself after a leisurely swim. And it conceals the small pool house hidden behind it. But from June to September, the staircase rises up starkly against the ochre earth, a distant row of olive trees and the blue sky. However, between the months of October and May, when the days are clear, Mother Nature lends her own slight of hand. That’s when the snow-capped Atlas Mountains magically emerge on the horizon, directly behind that stepped wall, creating a dramatic backdrop to the entire scene. And suddenly those steps make perfect sense. Bewitched by the ethereal beauty of those majestic mountains, you are suddenly overcome with an overwhelming desire to scale that staircase… to rise up higher and higher, stepping beyond those seven steps, right into the mountains themselves. Maybe even into the clouds. Abracadabra, indeed! IN © All Images Courtesy of Jean-Marie Monthiers www.jm-monthiers.fr SPRING/SUMMER 2014
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IN.ART
IRAN IN THE USA ERIC PARNES ON HIS IRANIAN HERITAGE, HIS AMERICAN UPBRINGING, AND HIS ART Words by Joel A. Ney IN 152 | SPRING/SUMMER 2014
America’s most controversial contemporary Iranian artist talks to IN Magazine about his recent Dubai exhibition at Ayyam Gallery, and about his ongoing search for identity, as well as his plans for his next endeavor. Where did you grow up? How has your childhood and family influenced your journey as an artist? I was the first in my immediate Middle Eastern family to be born in the United States. I was brought up in Maryland in the outskirts of the nation’s capital, Washington DC; and, later, but more importantly, in New York City. In retrospect, I realize it has been the encircling circumstances of my early childhood that has primarily shaped my current sense of perspective regarding how as a contemporary artist I see the West, the Middle East, and understand my ever-developing identity as a product of both worlds. A cornucopia of languages filled my family’s home: Farsi, Arabic, English, and French (and even some Russian). Meanwhile, outside the home, there was one particular question that universally permeated throughout my youth: “Where are you from?”
MEANWHILE, OUTSIDE THE HOME, THERE WAS ONE PARTICULAR QUESTION THAT UNIVERSALLY PERMEATED THROUGHOUT MY YOUTH: “WHERE ARE YOU FROM?” It was this seemingly simple inquiry that caused me to introspectively wonder and investigate my background, and even journey further into the distant past as well as take a genuine personal interest in world history. It’s rather elementary if you think about it, yet in a child’s mind such a question pulls at the fabric of one’s being.
very prevalent in daily life at home. But looking back, I can see how extreme my personal experience of childhood was, in regards to being exposed to what are commonly considered the norms of popular American Culture. I’ll give you an example: my aunt, who hardly spoke any English, would bring me on what seemed like a special pilgrimage to McDonald’s, with the heightened aura as if the institution was the essence, heart, and ultimate symbol of the USA. These stirring excursions were complimented with frequent immersions in excessive shopping sprees at the local toy store giants. This was apparently all with my aunt’s underlying “good wishes” to transmit to me what makes an American, “truly American.” I mention this because the sense of multicultural identity in an ever-changing world is central to my conceptual work as an artist. Drawing cartoon characters atop a silk antique Tabriz rug was perhaps my first foray into art (I can tell you, that didn’t go over very well at home). As an adult, these conceptual ideas followed me, and it was instinctive to grasp as many multidisciplinary forms of artistic expression that I could grasp: this involves not only the utilization of photography, but expands to painting, sculpture, works in mixed media as well as the implementation of any other methods necessary to properly express the concept at hand.
Tell us about your recent exhibition of the former Embassy of Iran of Washington DC, that took place at Ayyam Gallery in Dubai, your reflection on the strong history of Iran and the USA and how were you able to depict that artistically? Iran has a massive historical legacy that is almost intimidating in terms of its grand influence on the world, both past and present. From the decorative arts to poetry to literature and beyond, there is a vast array of material found in Persia and its neighboring regions in all their times. But at the moment it is the contemporary rapports of Iran and the United States that is fascinating, in terms of both its history of maintaining a longtime close friendship and its current “rocky” relationship. Now, looking through the specific lens of approach that I have trademarked “Neo Orientalism™,” I am genuinely captivated in observing how the East and the West have continued to interact with one another, but not with a personal political interest, but on a much more human and real level.
Although I work and travel internationally and now increasingly to the Middle Eastern regions, I primarily base my artist’s studio in New York City. The city, often described as a “melting pot” of housing every known ethnicity and culture, offers a drawing board, that I as of yet haven’t found elsewhere. The multicultural hub forces me to continually challenge myself as a contemporary artist with questions of what really is important to us today.
Tell us about how it all started. There are two parts to this: and it begins with family. My father, in particular, cultivated within me as a child a value towards learning, with relevance to history, science, and religion. Middle Eastern cultures and traditions were also
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The foundation of this recent exhibition is based on examining the literal vacancy of Iranian culture and a misconception of its peoples and traditions within the United States. However, I must clarify: the former Iranian Embassy in the United States speaks for all of the Middle East, in that the ME is still viewed through the fuzzy Western monocle of mysticism, exoticism, and misunderstanding.
IRAN HAS A MASSIVE HISTORICAL LEGACY THAT IS ALMOST INTIMIDATING IN TERMS OF ITS GRAND INFLUENCE ON THE WORLD, BOTH PAST AND PRESENT. This exhibition served, as much of my current work does, as a metaphor for identity, as the people of the Middle East are no longer isolated from the West. It’s a way to step back and examine how the historical bedrocks of the ME and the West are now being rewritten. The ideas of Edward Said’s “Orientalism” which placed the outward view of the ME in a pejorative context - is rapidly changing. The virtual historical ghosts of the Iranian Embassy, once filled with US stars such as Elizabeth Taylor, Andy Warhol, and Frank Sinatra, take a backseat as we consider the daily cultural interactions from people across the world who use the Internet to continuously forge new identities.
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Some will likely also recognize the historical importance of the release of these photographs of the former Iranian Embassy in Washington DC, at the present time when there are glimmers of possible new exchanges and dialogues between Iran and the USA. A month or two ago, the last US Ambassador to Iran, William H. Sullivan, passed away; there are also reports of the UK reestablishing diplomatic ties. Meanwhile, the impressive building that housed the Iranian Embassy here stands alone.
Tell us about the most interesting aspect of the shoot at the embassy? The former Embassy is located in one of the most prestigious sections of Washington DC, yet it has remained closed, something akin to a contemporary tomb or ruin. All of the previous points I mentioned regarding Orientalism, Middle Eastern identity, and even current politics and historical events came to a critical focal point once inside the space. Think about it: an Iranian-American, standing inside of what is still technically considered Iran, looking outside a window at the capital of the United States. The space, once filled with energy and alive with laughter, now evokes a symbolic silence. The Embassy also serves as a time portal in that it seems to preserve the air of mid-century IranianAmerican political life. It was impossible not to be overwhelmed with emotion.
Tell us about your creative process. History is perhaps the most vital part of my creative approach. As a collector, I am interested in artifacts and relics from ancient times as well as modern-day objects that seem to represent the changing times. When working on the current project, I also acquired quite a number of historical images of the Iranian Embassy during its heyday, to immerse myself in the ambience of what the rooms used to be like during its zenith as a major political and cultural magnet of the 1960s and 1970s. All these items serve as tools in my studio that assist me in my development and artistic process.
AN IRANIAN-AMERICAN, STANDING INSIDE OF WHAT IS STILL TECHNICALLY CONSIDERED IRAN, LOOKING OUTSIDE A WINDOW AT THE CAPITAL OF THE UNITED STATES. The Middle East is not an isolated part of the world; its foundations, originating in ancient Sumeria in Iraq, have shaped our civilization and the essence is carried on through religion. Working with that as the basic infrastructure, I find myself as an observer, constantly looking for connections.
From researching antiquarian books to browsing particular subjects on the Internet, to traveling and listening to people; these are my main instruments as a contemporary artist.
How do you keep up with the constantly evolving landscape of globalization through your work? The evolution of globalization and its ongoing metamorphosis is something that can be found in everyday life and is precisely what I look for. As I mentioned, it’s a constant balance between looking back into our shared past and realizing how it is relevant in various reincarnations on multiple layers.If I had my way, I would set out on a tour starting in the United States, and following the ancient trade paths, and journey through the Middle East.
Tell us about a current project in development. I have already begun designing a project that would recreate the mythical gates of Babylon in Iraq. Ideally, I would love to have the concept executed directly on this historically important site.
What is your dream as an artist? Dreams are the inevitable foundations of a reality. Give me any challenge to take on, a topic I am unfamiliar with, and let me create. I don’t want to be comfortable. My dream is to keep it going. IN
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IN.MUSIC Egypt’s Answer to ‘Bedroom’ Woes:
MOSEQAR Bedroom Producer & International Hit Maker Words by Nahla Samaha
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He’s not your typical young producer taken by the (now) mainstream lure of tech-house beats and club anthems. He’s a regular kid from the chaotic and eclectic city of Cairo who’s carved his very own niche in music with a special brand of remixes that is more orchestral than clubby, more slowly-seductive than in-your-face sexy. He is Moseqar, which in English literally translates to ‘Musician’.
Have you been approached by other artists to produce or remix their work? Can you give us examples?
His remixes of international chart toppers like Adele’s Chasing Pavements and John Legend’s All Of Me have captured the ear-drums of the international music blogosphere, and his talents have not only garnered him recognition by the international music industry, but with over 10,500 Likes on his Facebook page, this king of ambient riffs is going places…
What are some collaborations you have worked on? And with whom?
Yes, I’ve been approached by several artists. Most recently I worked on a remix of Ghosts by Emily Underhill and I was also approached by Zoë Phillips to work on an original which became Nobody Knows.
I’ve collaborated on some of my originals like Moments with Emily Underhill, and Nobody Knows with Zoë Phillips. I produced for both local and foreign artists, some unheard material should be on the lookout pretty soon.
A self-proclaimed ‘Bedroom Producer’, Moseqar’s silky and soulful remixes will most likely keep you in the bedroom, if you catch the not-so-subtle drift. As one music blogger so aptly describes his music, “His chill/trap edits have a signature style, ambient yet uplifting, giving a chill and refreshing rework of some real noteworthy songs.”
Who would be your ultimate dream collaboration?
IN Magazine braved the bustling and anarchic Cairo traffic to meet with Moseqar to really get to the bottom of his music, and what does it have to do with the bedroom!
Why do you refer to yourself as “Bedroom producer”?
For those of us who don’t know your music, how would you describe it to us without having to play it for us? I would probably tell you that you were going to be starring in your own cinematic movie and that my music will be the soundtrack to your imagination.
What do you think makes your sound special? I think my sound is very dreamy and cinematic I guess, a mix of classical and electronic music. I love messing around with vocals; I think it’s noticeable in many of my tracks. The majority of my music contains sections of instrumentation, which I think gives it more emotion and makes you think and reflect upon life. The small details are also something I care about it’s what makes the music come to life.
There are so many talented artists and producers out there that I would like to work with but, if I could go back in time it would definitely be the king of pop, Michael Jackson.
I refer to myself as a “Bedroom Producer” because basically every piece of music or remix I produced was made in my bedroom. All the ideas that come to me end up being executed in the same room I wake up in.
“ALL THE IDEAS THAT COME TO ME END UP BEING EXECUTED IN THE SAME ROOM I WAKE UP IN.” Your remix of Adele’s Chasing Pavements has also received the attention of the music blogosphere; that must feel good? Does that validate what you do? It’s always a great feeling to see my music being listened to and shared from various places around the world. The support I get is always a plus for me as an artist, the more people listen to it the more attention I receive.
What musical influences did you grow up with?
What are you working on now?
Growing up Pop music, Hip-hop and R&B definitely played a huge role. Of course my parents used to play old Egyptian and Middle Eastern songs all the time so it was just natural for me to be influenced by that.
Right now I’m working on original material and most probably on my first EP… shhh it’s a secret.
“I THINK MY SOUND IS VERY DREAMY AND CINEMATIC I GUESS, A MIX OF CLASSICAL AND ELECTRONIC MUSIC.” How involved or supportive is your family of your musical career? Well, in the beginning it was more of a, “Go study, you’re wasting your time!” But, after they started to witness me develop as an artist and saw how passionate I was, they were very supportive.
You recently remixed John Legend’s All Of Me, what do you look for in the songs you remix? What attracts you to them?
What producers do you most admire and why? Ryan Leslie, Pharrell, Timbaland, Mark Ronson, Dr Dre, Rick Rubin, Kanye west, Noah “40” Shebib. I admire any producer that is versatile and original with his sound in a way that when you listen to his music you can tell that it’s produced by this person.
How does your Egyptian heritage inspire your music? Just hanging around in Cairo gives me a sense of inspiration. My music does contain elements inspired from Egyptian music and the songs I used to hear growing up, I guess that’s where my idea of “Cafe’ Sessions” came from, placing an artist like Adele accompanied by Egyptian instrumentation singing live in a crowded street café’ where people are sipping tea and discussing life.
It really depends on the song itself, sometimes I might listen to a song and a certain part might hit me with an idea for a remix, other times I can really relate to a song and feel like I can add more to it from my perspective.
What are some accolades you have garnered?
Your “chilltrap” remix of HAIM’s Falling has garnered international attention, did you expect that?
I’ve received attention for my remixes from the likes of Banks, Toby Lightman, Ok Go, Dan Black... I also won 1st place in the “Egyptian Electronic Producer Contest” Hosted by Laboratorium back in 2012 but, most of all my greatest accomplishment is my fans and seeing them grow with me.
No, not at all. When I first read about HAIM they were up and coming as a group. I really loved their sound so I decided to remix Falling next thing you know it was receiving positive reviews from several blogs.
Get an earful of Moseqar here:
www.soundcloud.com/moseqar and www.facebook.com/MoseqarZ.
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MALIKA OMAR A BEAUTIFUL MESSAGE OF UNIVERSALISM THROUGH MUSIC Words by Nagmani Malika Omar, South African-born Dubai-based pianist and music composer, is someone endowed with the ability to spread love through music. Love for music inescapably rests in her heart & soul, which has been touched by her parents’ passion for the same. “Our house always echoed with euphonic sounds like old contemporary jazz, classical music and Sufi songs (qawwali) while I was growing up,” she says. Besides, there is an interesting angle as to this largely musical history of hers as she puts it happily, “When my mother was pregnant with me, she would listen to a lot of melodious Quranic recitation as well as Mozart. So I’m pretty sure I started enjoying music as a little seedling.” On the other hand, her dad’s role is no less paramount. He stood by his daughter and often boosted her morale in a fun and exciting way, “My father would take us on road trips and I remember bobbing on the back seat to old Bollywood melodies; pillow against my cheek and a cup of Coco Pops in hand,” recalls Omar. “They were always very supportive of my career,” she says of her parents.
“OUR HOUSE ALWAYS ECHOED WITH EUPHONIC SOUNDS LIKE OLD CONTEMPORARY JAZZ, CLASSICAL MUSIC AND SUFI SONGS (QAWWALI) WHILE I WAS GROWING UP.” The musical instrument she had envisioned herself playing up on a stage was piano. Interestingly, she was aged 3 when this vision sank in. But she started her formal piano lessons once she turned 9. She attended the Associated Board of the Royal Schools of Music and Trinity College of Music in London and UNISA. Asked about the message of her compositions, she replies explicitly, “They are derived from personal experiences or observations on either a topic or story I have heard. People who overcome adversities to reach their goals such as the late Nelson Mandela have always motivated me. It’s because of him that I grew up in a free South Africa and could learn music.”The Palestinian Children’s Relief Fund (PCRF) and the work they do to assist children in need inspired her charity single, ‘New Hope’. On the other end of the spectrum, she sometimes delves into her own life and comes up with something evocative. “I wrote ‘Thoughts of You’, (the theme track for ZEE TV culinary show called Served), when I was young and thought I was in love,” she says. “I want my compositions to inspire others and I love the idea of a track making someone recall a fond memory or life experience.” As she is classically trained in piano, all her pieces have got elements from what she learned in her studies. Yet, the music that she brings to life in the end sounds both contemporary and vintage. “I have always been a free spirit and I am termed a classical/fusion pianist as I merge music from different genres, i.e. contemporary with Arabic or Bollywood and classical,” says Omar. “I do it all to make my music more unique.” IN 158 | SPRING/SUMMER 2014
She mixes the influences of world music by interpreting them in her own style. Off her album Sand Star the title track is Arab-inspired and a tribute to Dubai. Likewise, her other track ‘Fuji Blossom’ is a Japanese-inspired lullaby whereas ‘Tango with Alejandro’ is her spin on a red-hot tango. There are other musicians who admire what she does. Shelley Frost, award-winning harpist and director of The Fridge Dubai, is one of them: “Malika is a unique pianist with her own take on the wonderfully diverse umbrella that encompasses ‘World Music’,” she says. “The way she weaves together the melodies of contemporary classical music with those of the Middle & Far East into a lush, sonically pleasing tapestry is what makes her stand above her contemporaries.” In this glam list of people is a renowned Colombian singing starlet Fatiniza who appreciates Omar as the colorful diva living between that black and white worlds. “Her music is honest, transparent and inspirational,” she says. “I love listening to her creations andI feel truly flattered that I got to be part of one of her songs. She is a musician that can fit her melodies into any genre.” Since she was also brought up in the shadow of Indian traditions as one of her roots, it’s no wonder Bollywood is her another terrain of interest. So what does she like the most about Bollywood? She points out, “I love Bollywood for the sense of escapism its movies and music bring. After all, I grew up watching Indian films and would imagine myself as one of the willowy, graceful heroines.”
“I HAVE ALWAYS BEEN A FREE SPIRIT AND I AM TERMED A CLASSICAL/ FUSION PIANIST AS I MERGE MUSIC FROM DIFFERENT GENRES.” Asked what music means to her as an artist, she puts it this way, “I believe the most beautiful form of music is our heartbeat. Without it, there would be no life! You can hear a rhythm in the cacophony of construction sounds; the rustling of leaves or even in silence. Music is all around us.” There is another extraordinary side to her that few people know about. Omar wants to use music to cure people with both physiological and psychological ailments. “Even in our own lives, we always have that one piece of music that makes us feel better or a composer whose melodies can ease away our stresses,” she says. “It’s extremely important that more research and funding needs to be invested into making music therapy more well-known. There is enough proof already that music really helps.” Being in Dubai, Omar feels connected with her roots as it strikes the perfect balance between East and West. “Dubai has so much talent rising from the sands. Look out world, because the newest superstars are right behind the next desert sand dunes,” she says.
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