IN MODA
co-editor-in-chief co-editor-in-chief
gianna collier-pitts ‘13 sophie imamura ‘15
photography director victor yaw ‘13 cover art andrea wang ‘15 contributing editor panat taranat ‘13 fashion club co-president cindy lim ‘14 co-president aline mitsuzawa ‘14 secretary sophia ruth-gantenbein ‘14 web director carl dong ‘14 faculty advisor nicholas molnar contributing writers sherri afshani ‘14, gianna collier-pitts ‘13, hanna gebre-meskel ‘15, sophie imamura ‘15, katie lee ‘15, cindy lim ‘14, sophia ruth-gantenbein ‘14, elli sandberg ‘16, jamie trubowitsch ‘15 models madison erlandson ‘15, juliette kenn de balinthazy ‘15, ben daniels ‘13, colin lord
stylist
maria isabel alvarezdelugo ‘13
Volume II, Issue 1 Winter 2012-2013
www.choateinmoda.com In Moda is Choate Rosemary Hall’s fashion magazine.
table of contents
WINTER 2012-2013 01
contributors
03
ed letter
04
electric holiday
05
style profile: riccardo tisci
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style profile: stacey bendet
07
choate style photographed by victor yaw
09
back to school style
10
in season: winter coats
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choate profile: colin lord photographed by victor yaw
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printed pants
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baroque trend
17
the galliano scandal
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lace and layering photographed by rose ni, sophie imamura and katie lee
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ny fashion week winter 2013
letter from the editors As I walk around campus scanning the blur of bodies rushing from class to class, a single question comes to mind: “What is Choate fashion?” Taking into account the varied cultures and backgrounds of our students, it is sometimes difficult to distinguish a unique campus style. Underneath the sea of English Barbour jackets, Hunter rain boots, and Longchamp bags of every color and size, an individual student’s voice can be lost. However, even with these ever-popular pieces, Choaties always find a way to break through the mold—whether it is with a brightly colored scarf or an avant-garde jewelry piece. As for the boys, who knew that a slick sports jacket or nice pair of sneakers could turn the basic class dress look from “hey” to “hello”? Since our very first issue of In Moda last spring, a lot has changed within and outside of Choate. Trends have come and gone, and with the “end of the world” looming overhead in the coming week, there is no better time than the present to show off your true style, and co-editor Sophie Imamura ‘15 and I, through this magazine, hope to be your go-to guide. After all, this is not just a magazine for the fashion addicts and aspiring designers on campus. In Moda was created to shed light on current international fashion trends, as well as the students and faculty of Choate Rosemary Hall who transform these looks into their own. Whether you wear heels or flats, rock Sperry topsiders or live in your Nikes on and off the court, fashion is fashion, and Choate fashion has a place for them all. From special dress glamour and Brooks Brothers ties to track jackets and simple khakis, style is style, and In Moda intends to prove that. Keep reading and see for yourself. Gianna Collier-Pitts ’13 and Sophie Imamura ‘15 Co-Editors-in-Chief
03
electric holiday at barneys new york As a fervent follower of designers, department stores, and brands on Twitter and Instagram, I came across the note that Barney would be presenting “Electric Holiday” at its Madison Avenue flagship store. Two marketing geniuses, Barneys CEO Mark Lee and The Walt Disney Company Chairman and CEO Bob Iger, revealed the windows on November 14th with a preview of the styles, such as fashion icon Sarah Jessica Parker’s Minnie Mouse style, complete with gorgeous lighting, displays, and advertisements. Many are confused by this “Electric Holiday” event—I mean—what does Disney have to do with fashion? Disney’s characters are adored by the mass as cute, little, and lovable icons, but were they even put into attention by the fashion world? The focus of the Electric Holiday was to create a fun “moving-art-short” show with the Disney’s characters in various designer costumes. The centerpiece of the Disney+Barneys windows was Minnie Mouse, who first window-shops for a Lanvin dress and then daydreams her way to Paris Fashion Week, where she meets VIPs like Steven Meisel and Carine Roitfeld. At Paris Fashion Week, Minnie and her pals such as Goofy, Daisy, Mickey, Snow White, Tiana, and Cruella de Vil model and pose as ultra-skinny fashion models.
This caused controversy in August, when there were campaign ads of the negative implications with the sizezero-ed Minnie Mouse. However, this “unhealthy” image was not present in November’s Electric Holiday festival, for Minnie went back to her perfectly cute and beautiful normal self as a shopper with the same admiration for the clothes. This festival was positive and upbeat, without any traces of the controversy. Products of this Electric Holiday event included limitededition holiday gift item such as Vinylmation figures designed by Paul Smith and Diane von Furstenberg, Mickey Mouse ears designed by Rag & Bone and L’Wren Scott, and holiday ornaments, edible sweets, toys for children, and much more. In capturing the essence of a high-fashion world, along with the electrically-charged and brilliant lights and colors of the magical world of Disney, this event was an overall success.
cindy lim ‘14 “Together with Barneys, we’ve created a one-of-a-kind experience that combines Disney’s great characters and storytelling with high fashion for a spectacular celebration of the season.” –Robert Iger, Disney CEO
04
style profile: riccardo tisci of givenchy Givenchy was founded in 1952 in the city of Fashion - Paris, France. The house was founded by Hubert de Givenchy at the age of 25. Givenchy dressed style goddesses like Audrey Hepburn and Jackie Kennedy, and he made the brand known for its serious and ladylike style. A new side was brought into Givenchy with Riccardo Tisci’s arrival: a slight gothic touch, giving the brand a fresh look. tisci and his muse, mariacarla boscono. 2011
audrey hepburn in givenchy. 1954
Riccardo Tisci was born on August 8, 1974 in Taranto, Italy. He graduated London’s Central Saint Martins Academy in 1999. He became the creative director of the Givenchy Haute Couture and Woman’s Department in February of 2005, and started designing menswear for Givenchy in 2008. Riccardo Tisci brought Givenchy to a new place. Unlike the designer before him, Riccardo had great success both financially and critically. His appeal to a gothic look and a very famous show called “space-age minimalism”, brought interest back to the Givenchy company. Much of Riccardo’s past has influenced his approach on design. His hometown is associated with mythilogical creatures such as mermaids and marines, a concept which is reflected in many of his collections. Not only has Tisci’s place of birth played a huge role in his work, his religion is also a great part. One of his collections, Fall/Winter 2011 menswear, especially reflects his catholic upbringing. His love for a dark touch fascinated the fashion scene and directed attention back to Givenchy. Though Tisci’s designs are elaborate and complex, they have a remarkable air of freshness and simplicity that continues to wow us and the rest of the world.
elli sandberg ‘16
05
givenchy fall 2011
style profile: stacey bendet of alice and olivia
It’s all about the pants. Started by a young UPenn graduate with an affinity towards brightly-hued bell-bottoms who was on a quest for the perfect pair of pants, Alice + Olivia by Stacey Bendet has grown tremendously throughout the past eleven years, from a small 2002 collection at Barneys New York to a 50 million dollar empire that dresses the likes of Blake Lively, Taylor Swift, Gwyneth Paltrow, and Dakota Fanning, to name just a few. Described by Bendet herself as a “sophisticated yet eclectic brand with a playful sensibility,” the designer loves to incorporate her love of vintage fashion, music, art, and culture into her designs. Alice + Olivia’s stylish retro vibe – and its subsequent international success – has spurred the label to launch a full women’s lifestyle collection, kid’s line, accessories and shoes collection, and even a menswear line, Anthony + Mo, dubbed in honor of the designer’s university friends. One cannot write about Bendet without mentioning the catalyst to her colossal success - the famous Alice + Olivia pant. My favorite from this collection was the designer’s namesake; the Stacey Slim Pant in the black and white floral lace print has already been a hit on the runway, and will undoubtedly also be making its way to the fashionable masses and style blogs as the trend for patterned pants continues. Alice + Olivia dresses are, in my opinion, the absolute best aspect of the label, and this season’s agglomeration of new designs and fabrics once again fails to disappoint. Whilst pining away at the pages of beautifully constructed dresses and gowns, I noticed two main trends, among others. First, peplum is making quite the wave this season, as countless designers have begun to incorporate it into their collections. I particularly loved the Shovan Lace Bodice Peplum Dress, with its clean lines and sharp detailing, but also a touch of femininity in the classic lace appliqué (not to mention a daring and wonderfully contradictory zipper in the back). Bendet reveals a perhaps younger, glamorous side, continuing the trend of sequins, glitter, and sparkles galore (odds are that the sequin enthusiast Taylor Swift will be donning one of these eye-catching ensembles in no time at all). With its absolutely stunning graphic chevron sequin print and asymmetrical design, And of course, no outfit can resist a perfectly structured blazer. Choose a classic, like the Elyse One Button Blazer, or be a bit more daring with my personal pick: A+O’s Ellie Open Front Box Jacket, a magnificent tapestry of tweed, embroidery, and sequins that puts a special twist to the classic Alice + Olivia jacket – and all the other blazers to shame. With such a stunning collection that manages to take a contemporary take on womenswear – without saying adieu to its femininity, I am now left with the urge to click “add to cart” for every single piece in the collection. I look forward to seeing what direction Stacey Bendet takes Alice + Olivia with the hopefully many, many seasons to come – futuristic galaxy pants, anyone?
sherri afshani ‘14
06
choate modeled by ben daniels ‘13
07
style photographed by victor yaw ‘13
08
back to school style School is well under way, with one term gone, the leaves have dropped, and the weather has become chilly. Basically, it’s the right time to whip out your Hunters and Frye boots. This year, backto-school trends have been varied and unique, incorporating the diversity of our student body. Oversized scarves are popular, especially in a color of contrast to the rest of the outfit. Combat boots, riding boots, Doc Martens, and booties are commonly worn, but oxford brogues have found their way back into the mix as well. Big, cozy sweaters look great when paired with slim pants or a figure-conscious skirt and boots or brogues. Plain dresses or skirts are made so much more fashionforward when worn with funky tights or leggings. As always, messenger and tote bags are a chic alternative to the average Jansport backpack. Choate fashionistas prove that you can still look fab while still following the dress code.
Jamie Trubowitsch ‘15
09
in season: winter coats With the changing of the season comes the changing of our dorm wardrobes, so it is time to put away the windbreakers and lose the little jean jackets. Winter is quickly approaching, so to combat the chilly temperatures, good as well as versatile winter coats are an essential for everyone (including the boys.) One of the most popular trends this season is the ever-classic winter trench, which can be seen in the Winter 2012/2013 collections of both Belstaff and Rodarte. With a trend so easily wearable, you will wonder why you have not already owned one. There is also the less common though more daring wool cape, with or without embellishments. For those craving a bolder take on the trend, look for styles similar to the baroque designs featured in this season’s collection for Dolce and Gabbana. If you are into structure rather than trimming, opt for a sleek silhouette in monochrome, which can be seen in Gucci’s Fall/Winter 2012 collection. For the boys looking for something that will keep them warm while also subtly enhancing their daily look, the timeless wool peacoat is crucial. Whether single- or double-breasted, this style can make even the least fashionable man seem well-versed. Look to the fashion house of Burberry for examples of this commonly appearing trend. If you seem to spend more time in the snow than in the classroom, or you simply love a nice puffy jacket, there are endless possibilities. A popular jacket on campus is the incredibly comfortable though expensive Moncler coat that is available in a wide range of colors and lengths. Not willing to make the pricey commitment? No a problem; there are plenty of other brands that will keep you just as warm without freezing your bank account. Marc New York and Calvin Klein also have gorgeous down feather coats this season that are more reasonably priced, which is always in-fashion. Just remember, no matter what look you choose to rock this term, stay warm and have confidence—the only accessory you will ever need.
Gianna Collier-Pitts ‘13
Burberry Menswear
Dolce & Gabbana
Moncler
10
choate profile:
11
colin lord
photographed by victor yaw ‘13
12
“TRUE STYLE is an outward reflection
of your
“
INNER BEING.
-colin lord on style
13
14
print pants
For the past few seasons, designers have been introducing something new and fresh: the printed pant. From high quality fabrics to basic denims, printed pants have become the new craze among the fashion world. Isabel Marant’s Fall 2011 collection that featured the Navajo skinny jeans in white and black are a prime example of this year’s trend seen last year on the runway. Prada’s heavily embellished Fall 2013 collection focused on cropped trousers with beautiful geometric prints. Now, we see the trend embraced in every variety, from Chanel to AG jeans and even Juicy Couture. The most popular prints include baroque patterns, camo, floral, plaid, and other psychedelic, water color-like explosions of color. Other fabrics than denim have also become popular for use in the skinny-jeans pattern, including velvet, leather or waxed cotton, and metallic fabrics. If you’re feeling confident in your pants, then a variety of bold choices are available for choosing from almost every retailer. More subtle choices are also widely available. No matter whether vivid or demure, adopting this trend will add something new to your look.
sophie imamura ‘15
15
isabel marant navajo jeans
plaid on the street
seven for all mankind silver foil jeans
prada fall/winter 2013
j-brand gold velvet brocade jeans
gilded age: baroque
Talk about flashbacks. This fall’s richest flashback option isn’t from the 80’s or 60’s, the two decades that have created the popular vintage trends over this past year. It’s from an era as far back as the 16th century: brocade. But this fall, it’s fresher than ever. Welcome a brocade piece into your wardrobe this season! It doesn’t have to be big; luxury lies low-key classy in the details. Brocade was created by the Spanish -leave it to them to so masterfully craft the material of stunning drama and luxury- and quickly picked up by France and Italy to delight the highest paying medieval fashionistas. In the fashion world, it’s generally defined as any rich fabric that has been embellished with a raised pattern. As is evidenced in the items on the opposite page, this texture is frequently created by threads woven tightly into the fabric. After painstaking handiwork and some hearty investment in materials, the end result is truly one of the most spectacular fabrics on the market. True to its class of origin, brocade is used today for the work of the world’s most splendid designers.
sophia ruth-gantenbein ‘14
roberto cavalli fall/winter 2006
miu miu
balmain fall/winter 2012
dolce & gabbana fall/winter 2012
dolce & gabbana
16
galliano: the scandal and the aftermath John Galliano, graduate of the prestigious Central Saint Martin’s College of Art and Design, has been at the forefront of the fashion world since about 1996, when he became chief designer of Dior. He had directly launched a label not long after graduating with an honors degree in fashion design (1984), and was named British Designer of the Year in 1987, earning this title again in 1994 and 1995. His friends and supporters knew him as a very kind and humble man who celebrated diversity, and so when he was involved in a scandal that displayed him as the opposite, it came as a huge shock and was later seen as an even greater tragedy. On February 24, 2011, Galliano was briefly arrested for making racist and anti-Semitist remarks to a biracial couple at a Parisian café. Many witnesses claimed that he had cursed and slandered them lacking any alibi, saying to the Jewish woman “Dirty Jewish face, you should be dead” and dropping the F-bomb and threatening to kill her Asian boyfriend. He was also reported to have called the woman ugly and other various insults, and even to have exchanged slaps with the couple. He was later reported to have gotten “mildly violent.” Someone had recorded the event on his or her phone, the video of which was displayed in court as evidence. Almost immediately after, Galliano was suspended from Dior and later fired when a video was released of Galliano saying things like, “I love Hitler.” and glorifying the Holocaust. Natalie Portman, face of the Miss Dior Cherie fragrance, delivered a statement saying that she was “deeply shocked and disgusted” by Galliano’s behavior and that she “will not be associated with Galliano in any way.” This was a common reaction, especially by consumers, but Galliano’s friends and supporters were more forgiving of his actions. Since the death of his close friend and business partner, Steven Robinson, Galliano went through a downwards spiral that came coupled with a drug and alcohol addiction. Immediately after being fired by Dior, he checked into an Amazon clinic for treatment and proceeded to stay as off the radar as possible. His only public appearance for a while was his attendance to Kate Moss’s wedding, a good friend of his whose dress he designed. When Kate Moss’s father publicly thanked him for designing the dress, the audience stood up and applauded the designer, guests including major members of the fashion industry such as Naomi Campbell, Christian Louboutin, Daphne Guinness, etc. The fashion world seems to have forgiven him, but his reputation has been crushed. Industries are run by their consumers, and consumers are happy to see past Galliano’s brilliance as a designer and his private hell and view him as a foul, drunken racist. Galliano’s trial was on June 22, 2011, in which he claimed to be so drunk that he could not recollect most of anything that was occurring in the video he was shown of the night in the bar. His verdict was given September 8, 2011. He faced no jail time but did receive a suspended fine of 10,000 euros, which he only has to pay if he repeats this crime again within the next five years. Galliano’s lawyer has said that Galliano is going to continue seeking treatment for his drug and alcohol addictions, and that Galliano has “never made an anti-Semitic remark in [his] more than ten years at Dior.” Galliano has also issued a public apology, saying that he is sorry “for all the sadness this affair has caused.” He is thought to have gotten off easy with the verdict, but his punishment has already been dealt by the public. Most of the court agreed that Galliano was, at that point, “more deserving of pity than punishment.” However, there may be some hope for Galliano, as fashion writer Dana Thomas spotted him earlier this year having lunch with Grace Coddington, creative director of American Vogue magazine, saying that he was “thrilled” about something. Style Bistro suspects that he might earn a spot on America’s Next Top Model as a judge.
17
hanna gebre-meskel ‘15
fall fashion at choate modeled by madison erlandson and juliette kenn de balinthazy
photographed by rose ni sophie imamura and katie lee
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New York Fashion Week 2013 Highlights from February’s snowed-in collections.
Elegant, chic, and edgy pieces for powerful women.
Jason Wu
Oscar de le Renta
Jeremy Scott
A versatile collection with opulent, elaborate details.
A highly editorial and youthful collection full of energy.
(Don’t wear this to school.)
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