The Maker and the Muse
Bible
Supervisor’s
Francesca
Bush 2003566
Contents
Page 2: Contents
Page 3: Creative Team
Page 4: Dancers Photos
Page 5: Dancers Contacts Sheet
Page 6: Casting and Maker Allocations
Page 7: Cheat Sheet (Dancer’s Measurements)
Page 8: Schedules
Page 9: Production Schedule
Page 10: Fitting Schedule (Fitting 1: 21/10/22)
Page 11: Fitting Schedule (Fitting 2: 28/10/22)
Page 12: Fitting Schedule (Fitting 3: 2/11/22)
Page 13: Fitting Schedule (Fitting 4: 11/11/22)
Page 14: Pre-assessment Schedule 24/11/22
Page 15: Tech Week Schedule
Page 16: Designs
Page 17: In The Drapery
Page 18: Base Costumes
Page 19: Base Costume Example
Page 20: Highland Fling
Page 21: Ripper
Page 22: Wings
Page 23: Birds, Wings and Feathers
Page 24: Research
Page 25: Research: Birds, Wings and Feathers
Page 26: Research: Highland Fling
Page 27: Research: Alexander McQueen
Page 26: Research: Alexander McQueen, Isabella Blow
Page 29: Budget
Page 30: Estimated Budget
Page 31: Budget Tracker
Page 32-36: Sustainability Assessment
Page 37: Supplier Information
Page 38: Individual Dancer Breakdown
Page 39-47: Niamh Simmons
Page 48-58: Alexis Henry
Page 59-69: Rianna Corben
Page 70-80: Amy Docherty
Page 81-92: Charlotte Taylor
Page 93-104: Poppy Walker
Page 105-116: Sylvie Rouget
Page 117-128: Ellie Hulbert
Page 129-139: Tilly Skates
Page 140-149: Amber Collins
Page 150-159: Lucy-Jane Andrews
Page 160-169: Celeste-Estelle Patel
Page 170-180: Raisa Crabtree
Page 181-192: Cobie Cheeseman
Page 193-197: In The Drapery
Page 198: Running Wardrobe
Page 199: Costume Plot
Page 200: Laundry List
Page 201-202: Tech Week Notes
Page 203-207: Production Photos
Page 208: Bibliography
Page 209-211: List of Figures
Page 212-225: Appendix
Creative Team
Supervisor:
Francesca Bush
Supervisor Support:
Ellie Ray
Course Leader for Dance and Choreographer:
Jane White
Costume Coordinator:
Adele Keeley
Designers:
Olivia Hodgkinson
Abi Beaven
Lila Qiu
Makers:
Gaby Roberts
Phoebe Stevens
Vi Armstrong
Maeve Regan
Leah Sweeney
Niamh Simmons
Alexis Henry Rianna Corben Amy Docherty
Charlotte Taylor Poppy Walker
Sylvie Rouget
Ellie Hulbert
Tilly Skates
Amber Collins
Lucy-Jane Andrews
Raisa Crabtree Cobie Cheeseman
Dancers Contact Sheet
Amber Collins
Ellie Hulbert
Celeste-Estelle Patel
Poppy Walker
Cobie Cheeseman
Sylvie Rouget
Raisa (Rai) Crabtree
Tilly Skates
Amy Docherty
CharlotteTaylor
Niamh Simmons
Rianna Corben
Alexis Henry
Lucy-JaneAndrews
Pronouns EmailAddress Phone Number
Name
Casting and Maker Allocation
Funeral:
All Dancers
Makers: Abi Beaven, Annabelle Bryant
Highland Fling:
H1
Dancer: X
Maker: Phoebe Stevens (bodice), Leah (skirt)
H2
Dancer: X
Maker: Leah Sweeney
H3
Dancer: X
Maker: Vi Armstrong
H4
Dancer: X
Maker: Phoebe Stevens
Birds and Feathers:
B1
Dancer: X
Maker: Vi Armstrong
B2
Dancer: X
Maker: Gaby Roberts
B3
Dancer: X
Maker: Gaby Roberts
B4
Dancer: X
Maker: Maeve Regan
Ripper:
R1
Dancer: X
Maker: Phoebe Stevens
R2
Dancer: X
Maker: Gaby Roberts
R3
Dancer: X
Maker: Vi Armstrong
R4
Dancer: X
Maker: Maeve Regan
R5
Dancer: X
Maker: Leah Sweeney
McQueen
Dancer: X
Maker: Maeve Regan (Jacket) Gaby Roberts (Trousers)
In the Drapery:
Dancers: X
Maker: Leah Sweeney
Cheat Sheet (Dancer’s Measurements)
Schedules
Production Schedule
Main Dates:
21st October: 1st Fitting
28th October: 2nd Fitting
2nd November: 3rd Fitting
11th November: 4th Fitting
24th November: Pre-assessment
28th November - 1st December: Tech Week
30th November & 1st December: Show Days
1st December (Eve): Get Out
2nd December: Meeting the Van
Fitting Schedule
Fitting 1: 21/10/22
Fitting Schedule
Fitting 2: 28/10/22
Fitting Schedule
Fitting 3: 2/11/22
Fitting Schedule
Fitting 4: 11/11/22
Pre-assessment Schedule
24/11/22
Tech Week Schedule
Designs
Design: In The Drapery
Designer: Olivia Hodgkinson
Design: Base Costumes
Designer: Olivia Hodgkinson
Design: Base Costume Example
Designer: Olivia Hodgkinson
Design: Birds, Wings and Feathers
Designer: Abi Beaven
Research
Research: Birds, Wings and Feathers
Notes:
● McQueen used a lot of feathers and birds within his designs.
● Some designs were inspired by birds whilst others incorporated feathers and wings in more literal ways.
● Cream, white, navy.
● Generally designs were all one or similar colours.
Research: Highland Fling
Notes:
● All black and red, with some including some cream as contrast.
● All same or similar tartan pattern.
● Black lace details.
● Tight silhouettes.
● Either tight details around neck or very open necklines.
Research: Alexander McQueen
Notes:
● McQueen wore very casual clothing day to day. Not high fashion.
● Normally wore jeans/ trousers in a dark colour.
● Wore lots of shirts, particularly check shirts.
● Mainly wore shirts in shades of blue as well as red and white. Usually quite muted colours.
● Shirts mostly partly unbuttoned, sometimes with a t-shirt under.
● Navy shirts match the theme of the Birds, Wings and Feathers runway scene and are commonly worn by McQueen.
● Dark shirts and red shirts seem to be common as well as check, which matches the Highland Fling style, particularly a tartan style red check.
Research: Alexander McQueen, Isabella Blow
Formal or funeral wear worn by McQueen as well as funeral style headpieces worn by Blow is a good basis for the funeral scene.
● McQueen wore sharp silhouetted jackets, very clean lines.
● Hats and headpieces.
● Isabella Blow’s black headpieces look to be of a funeral style.
● Feathers often used in Blow’s headpieces, particularly those that were quite large and wide.
● Lots of black lace, especially falling in front of the eyes as a veil style headpiece.
Budget
Estimated Budget
Budget Tracker
Sustainability Assessment
Supplier Information (Compiled by Ellie Ray)
AUB Haberdashery
AUB Digital Print
Amazon
https://www.amazon.co.uk/ Asos
https://www.asos.com/
Basilica Dancewear
28 Strympole Way, Highfields Caldecote
Cambridge England
CB23 7ZJ United Kingdom
01223660946
retail@basilicadancewear.com
https://basilicadancewear.com/
Dalston Mill Fabrics
69-73 Ridley Rd, Dalston, London E8 2NP
0207 249 4129
info@dalstonmillfabrics.co.uk
https://www.dalstonmillfabrics.co.uk/ Depop
https://www.depop.com/
eBay
https://www.ebay.co.uk/
FabricLand
3 Dominion Road, West Howe Industrial estate, Bournemouth,
BH11 8LH
01202 580066
https://fabricland.co.uk/
Hobbycraft
Longham
Ferndown
Bournemouth
BH22 9DJ
03300 261020
https://www.hobbycraft.co.uk/
LightInTheBox
https://www.lightinthebox.com/
Move Dance
0333 880 2740
https://www.movedancewear.com/
Planet Dance
Planet Dance, Middle Mill, Carlinghow Mills, 501 Bradford Road, Batley, WestYorkshire, WF17 8LL
01924 471340
info@PlanetDance.com
https://www.planetdance.com/
Porselli
Unit 4, Frensham Road
Sweet Briar Industrial Estate
Norwich NR3 2BT
01603 406700
info@dancewear.co.uk
https://www.dancewear.co.uk/
Primark
48 - 54 Commercial Rd
Bournemouth
BH2 5LR
01202 589043
https://www.primark.com/en-gb
Sports Direct
1St Floor,TheAvenue Centre Commercial Rd, Bournemouth BH2 5RP 0344 332 5808
https://www.sportsdirect.com/
TK Maxx
The QuadrantArcade, 68 Old Christchurch Rd, Bournemouth BH1 1LL 01202 316367
https://www.tkmaxx.com/uk/en/ Uniprint
University, 7 Fern BarrowArts, Bournemouth, Poole BH12 5HH https://www.uniprintuk.com/
Whaleys
Whaleys (Bradford) LTD.
Harris Court, Great Horton, Bradford, WestYorkshire, BD7 4EQ, England
https://www.whaleys-bradford.ltd.uk/
W&S
W&S Shop, CotteesAuction House
Mannings Heath Road, BH12 4NQ 01202 675564
https://www.wsrecycling.co.uk/
Individual Dancer Breakdown
H1 Dancer
Design: Highland Fling Runway (H1)
Designer: Olivia Hodgkinson
Measurement Sheet
Full Body Photos: Front, Side, Back
Photos by: Annabel Brake
2nd Fitting: 2/11/22
Photos by: Maddie Powell
Note taker: Amber Zollo
● Base Costume - Black trousers, purply/grey leotard. Black waistband.
● Full costume – trousers and waistband stay on. Elastic coming out – needs to be tighter.Thicker elastic is better. For fabric - one layer for skirt (take off the second layer). Potential to swish up the fabric (from the slit opening) – decision will be made in the next fitting.
● Designer wants skirt to fall below the trousers – 1”? Decided lengths for skirt – Front: 89cm back: 99cm (Reference Pictures). Split edge raw, overlocked hem on the hem. (Samples need to be made).
● Jacket – armhole is tight.Too tight on the neck – line has been drawn on. Velcro on jacket (worried about poppers on the stretchy fabric). Front has been pinned for reference.
● Shoulders need resetting (has been pinned in place).
● Neckline and armholes have been marked.
● Jacket hem has been lifted – a boxier look (designer wants to see top of the waistband).
Costume Breakdown
The Maker and the Muse
Dancer: Niamh Simmons
Costumes: Funeral, Base Costume, Highland Fling (H1)
Scene Costume Items Buy, Make or Source
Supplier Photo
Funeral Long Gloves Hire AUB Costume Store
Base Costume Leotard Buy
Basilica
Dancewear
Culottes Buy InTheLightBox
Highland Fling (H1)
Belt Buy Amazon
Bodice Make Fabricland, W&S, AUB Fabric
Recycle Wall
Skirt Make AUB
Haberdashery, AUB Fabric
Recycle Wall
Cost Breakdown
Final Photos
H2 Dancer
Design: Highland Fling Runway (H2)
Designer: Olivia Hodgkinson
Measurement Sheet
Full Body Photos: Front, Side, Back
Photos by: Annabel Brake
2nd Fitting: 28/10/22
Photos by: Lila Qiu
Note taker: Abi Beavan
-Original leotard couldn’t be tried on as the lace had no stretch around the neckline.
-Culottes fitted fine.
3rd Fitting: 2/11/22
Photos by: Maddie Powell
Note taker: Amber Zollo
Pinned up the skirt in place – potential thicker waistband. Right side of skirt gathered/ruched up – can’t be too big/wide. Flatter on the hips. Bring some of the pleats to the front to flatten it out? Designer likes the pleats (in preference to the gathers).
Pleats going in the wrong direction? Unpick and machine in the front newly positioned pleats. 45-degree angle. 1.5 inch on elastic too big.
Top has been scrapped; the strap will act as the top. Attacked via black popper or Velcro.
Black mesh long sleeves leotard underneath (hasn’t arrived yet):
Strap needs pinning into the correct place.
Waistband made from the silica.Thick and gathered.A big buckle for the illusion of big belt?
● Hem: Longer part of the skirt needs to be shortened more (as pinned). Follow the distance of the last pleat.
● Hem choices - Rolled hem. (Maybe create a sample for a rolled overlocked hem)?
● Test the trousers under the light – could be a weird line?
Costume Breakdown
The Maker and the Muse
Dancer:Alexis Henry
Costume: Funeral, Base Costume, Highland Fling (H2)
Scene Costume Items Buy, Make or Source Supplier Photo
Funeral Flower Headpiece Make AUB Haberdashery, AUB Fabric
Recycle Wall
Base Costume Leotard Buy eBay
Culottes Buy InTheLightBox
Belt Buy Amazon
Highland Fling (H2) Dress Make
Cost Breakdown
Final Photos
H3 Dancer
Design: Highland Fling Runway (H3)
Designer: Olivia Hodgkinson
Measurement Sheet
Full Body Photos: Front, Side, Back
Photos by: Annabel Brake
2nd Fitting: 28/10/22
Photos by: Lila Qiu
-Looks nice and fits well
-Would feel more comfortable in a bra
-Liv to source a sports bra that will work with the open back
2nd Fitting: 2/11/22
Photos by: Maddie Powell
Note taker: Amber Zollo
Tuck stitch in the top of sports bra – same height as leotard neckline. Red quick tackline on neckline for future reference. Pin in style lines for future fittings to. For the back of the bodice, follow the line of the leotard (pinned in place during fitting).
Bodice needs strap – elastic 1inch strap (pinned in place). Bra Cups create a weird shape. Princess line on the bust. Check pins as new dart on bust line has been put into to smooth out the bust. Empire waistline. Waistband has been lifted as it was too far down low (pinned in place).
● Calico straps – gathered. Back it in tulle to make it stick up.
● Neckline pinned (check pictures and pinning).
● Hemming skirt – layered effect.
Costume Breakdown
The Maker and the Muse
Dancer: Rianna Corben
Costume: Funeral, Base Costume, Highland Fling (H3)
Scene Costume Items Buy, Make or Source
Supplier Photo
Funeral Headpiece Make AUB
Haberdashery
Base Costume Leotard Buy depop
Sports Bra Buy
Amazon
Shorts Hire
Dance Costume Store
Culottes Buy
InTheLightBox
Belt Buy
Amazon
Highland Fling (H3) Dress
Fabricland, AUB
Haberdashery, AUB Fabric
Recycle Wall
Cost Breakdown
Final Photos
H4 Dancer
Design: Highland Fling Runway (H4)
Designer: Olivia Hodgkinson
Measurement Sheet
Full Body Photos: Front, Side, Back
Photos by: Annabel Brake
2nd Fitting: 2/11/22
Photos by: Maddie Powell
Note taker: Amber Zollo
● Leotard doesn’t fit- dancer has 2 with black lace on both sleeves, one which has short sleeve and one which has long sleeves, dancer will bring to next fitting
● Culottes are perfect
2nd Fitting: 2/11/22
Photos by: Maddie Powell
Note taker: Amber Zollo
● Don’t alter leg length because Jane likes particular length – dancer has tattoo on ankle (5cm^2)
● Jacket is tight at the shouldersnew line is marked w/ safety pins
● Back will not have the darts shaped anymore as it will be shredded
● Dancer lifts person onto right hip at some point during dance – put skirt on dancer’s left hip instead of right (mirror whole design)
● Skirt will attach with thick elastic
● Shorten both layers of skirt – top layer 27cm, second layer 44cm
● Skirt is wrong fabric, needs to be nylon crin instead
● Buy back the 3 metres of bought black crin so as to save on budget
● Highest rip point has been marked so as to not shorten too much
● Dancer will wear black sports bra
Costume Breakdown
The Maker and the Muse
Dancer:Amy Docherty
Costume: Funeral, Base Costume, Highland Fling (H4)
Scene Costume Items Buy, Make or Source Supplier
Funeral Headpiece Make AUB
Haberdashery
Base Costume Leotard Sourced Donated by dancer
Highland Fling (H4)
Culottes Buy InTheLightBox
Belt Buy Amazon
Jackets Make Fabricland, Hobbycraft, AUB Fabric
Recycle Wall
Leggings Make Fabricland, AUB
Haberdashery
Half Skirt Source AUB Costume Store
Cost Breakdown
Final Photos
B1 Dancer
Design: Birds, Wings and Feathers Runway (B1)
Designer: Abi Beaven
Measurement Sheet
Full Body Photos: Front, Side, Back
Photos by: Annabel Brake
2nd Fitting: 28/10/22
Photos by: Lila Qiu
Note taker: Abi Beavan
Fits well Need to put bra pads in Will need elastic stitched across the back
Fitting 1 Notes: 21/10/22
Note taker: Ellie Ray
Photos by: Beth Lacey
Keep double breasted, but move buttons higher up Bringing up hem of jacket, at front to waist, back to “jacket length”
Take in side seam (dart from hip/pocket to armhole)
Might add piping to design lines
Armholes made higher at shoulder
Armholes could be binded
2nd Fitting: 2/11/22
Photos by: Maddie Powell
Note taker: Cara Finn
● Trousers have been tightened at waist making them shorter, for hem overlock and turn up
● Move dart at front sideways (about 1.5 inches) towards back and lengthen (1cm)
● Soften curve at CB so it’s not appointed edge
● 2 fastenings (poppers) at opening, double breasted
● Shorten jacket so it hits at waist
● Zip in trousers - ORDER
Costume Breakdown
The Maker and the Muse
Dancer: CharlotteTaylor
Costume: Funeral, Base Costume, Birds (B1)
Scene/ Costume Items Buy, Make or Source Supplier Photo
Funeral Lace up gloves Buy Hollywood
Fancy Dress
Base Costume Leotard Buy Move Dance
Culottes Buy InTheLightBox
Belt Buy Amazon
Flesh coloured shorts Buy TK Maxx
Birds (B1) Jacket Make AUB Fashion, AUB Fabric Recycle Wall, Haberdashery, Dye Room
Trousers Make AUB
Haberdashery, Fabric Recycle Wall, Dye Room, Handprinted
Cost Breakdown
Final Photos
B2 Dancer
Design: Birds, Wings and Feathers Runway (B2)
Designer: Abi Beaven
Measurement Sheet
Full Body Photos: Front, Side, Back
Photos by: Annabel Brake
2nd Fitting: 28/10/22
Photos by: Lila Qiu
Note taker: Abi Beavan
First leotard didn’t work - felt tight and was cautious of ripping
Second leotard much better, would need to fit bra pads in somehow
Fitting 1 Notes: 21/10/22
Note taker: Ellie Ray
Photo taker: Beth Lacey
● Jacket hem needs to be brought up to waist
● Bird motif needs to be reduced in size to fit jacket
● Sleeve hems made higher
● Take in sleeves under arm seam
● Shoulder pads added to jacket
● Side seams taken in
● Needs straight seams (not curved)
2nd Fitting: 2/11/22
Photos by: Maddie Powell
Note taker: Cara Finn
● Shorten braces of skirt, so it sits on ribs
● There is a tulle skirtAbi made safety-pinned in
● Take up at back so it doesn’t touch floor (there is safety pin) and at front (safety pin) –gradual curve rather than uneven hem
● Stitch a diamond on the cross of the elastic to secure for quick changes
● Shoulder pads inserted: Shorten hem of jacket (safety pin) and change lapels to match shortening (safety pin)
● Bird design has been attached to back – it is pinned on wings and tail, changing shape of original design
Costume Breakdown
The Maker and the Muse
Dancer: Poppy Walker
Costume: Funeral, Base Costume, Birds (B2)
Scene Costume Items Buy, Make or Source Supplier Photo
Funeral Long gloves Hire AUB Costume Store
Base Costume Leotard Buy Planet Dance
Culottes Buy InTheLightBox
Belt Buy Amazon
Birds (B2) Jacket Make AUB Fashion, Fabric Recycle Wall, Handprinted, Sneaker Science
Skirt Make Fabricland, AUB
Haberdashery, AUB Fabric
Recycle Wall, Dye Room
Shorts Make AUB Fashion, AUB Fabric Recycle Wall, Dye Room
Cost Breakdown
Final Photos
B3 Dancer
Design: Birds, Wings and Feathers Runway (B3)
Designer: Abi Beaven
Measurement Sheet
Full Body Photos: Front, Side, Back
Photos by: Annabel Brake
Fitting 2: 28/10/22
Photos by: Lila QiuNote taker: Abi Beavan
First leotard fit welldifferent fabric but could dye - bit of rolling and a bit of concern about the bust being secure
Second leotard - better fit - same fabric as others but not the best pink, would need bra cups added
Try to dye second leotard and if doesnt work, use the first leotard and alter
Fitting 1 Notes: 21/10/22
Note taker: Ellie Ray
Photo taker: Beth Lacey
● Darts on waist front, move up into the armhole (at front).
● Remove amount through centre back
● Darts along side-seam
● Darts on side back
● Arms to be taken up- cuff taken up, pin underside of arm
Hem up into V-shape on bottom – bring up to mid-thigh
2nd Fitting: 2/11/22
Photos by: Maddie Powell
Note taker: Cara Finn
● Take in at CB
● Take in sleeves
● Shoulder has been pinned to create small lip/tuck – topstitch
● Extend at cuff
● Smooth out darts at front by taking in from waist to hem
● Smooth out darts by taking out back darts and taking in side darts
● Extra thick shoulder pads!!
● Soften out curve of jacket at CF
● Hem leggings – safety pin
Costume Breakdown
The Maker and the Muse
Dancer: Sylvie Rouget
Costume: Funeral, Base Costume, Birds (B3)
Scene Costume Items Buy, Make or Source Supplier Photo
Funeral Short Lace Gloves Buy Hollywood Fancy Dress
Base Costume Leotard Buy eBay
Culottes Buy InTheLightBox
Belt Buy Amazon
Birds (B3) Jacket Make AUB Fashion course, Dye Room, Handprinted, AUB Fabric Recycle Wall
Leggings Make AUB Haberdashery, Fabricland
Cost Breakdown
Final Photos
B4 Dancer
Design: Birds, Wings and Feathers Runway (B4)
Designer: Abi Beaven
Measurement Sheet
Full Body Photos: Front, Side, Back
Photos by: Annabel Brake
Fitting 1 Notes: 21/10/22
Note taker: Ellie Ray
Photo taker: Beth Lacey
● Move hem to waistline- can move buttons up, remove pockets
● Back hem slightly lower than front
● Skirt might need braces to keep it up, as jacket is high and not fitted
● Might need tights, not just leotard under costume
● Top of collar needs to go up for feathers to be attached
● Feathers can go on back of collar and front of bottom collar
● Take lining out of sleeves and take up sleeve at top of armhole (sleeve at top of armhole unpicked and readjusted)
● Darts at side back
● Maeve taken measurements for model against jacket
● Trousers need to be double stitched on crotch
2nd Fitting: 2/11/22
Photos by: Maddie Powell
Note taker: Amber Zollo
● Base costume first: Grey leotard and pink trousers. Pink waistband (to be made). Bust cup into leotard. Band across the back (1/4” elastic – dye it grey).
2nd Fitting: 2/11/22
Photos by: Maddie Powell
Note taker: Amber Zollo
● For Full Costume: waistband and trousers come off.
● Waistband elastic - pulled to be tighter. Braces on skirt (won’t be seen).
● Jacket –Too low at the back. Needs taking up – has already been marked and pinned.Two buttons/poppers at the front (where pinned).
● Collar – pin the collar in. Unpick collar – stitch the line together to make a nice smooth line – then feathers then sit under and up (refer to photos).
● Skirt – needs a stepper curve at the hem (pinned). Even flow - Mid-thigh to 1” above the ankle. Build up volume with tulle and feathers on top the overskirt.
Costume Breakdown
The Maker and the Muse
Dancer: Ellie Hulbert
Costumes: Funeral, Base Costume, Birds (B4)
Scene Costume Items Buy, Make or Source Supplier Photo
Funeral Lace up gloves Buy Hollywood Fancy Dress
Base Costume Leotard Buy eBay
Culottes Buy InTheLightBox
Belt Buy Amazon
Birds (B4) Jacket Make AUB Fashion, Fabric Recycle Wall, Handprinted, Sneaker Science
Skirt Make AUB Fabric Recycle Wall, Dye Room, Handprinted
Leggings Make Fabricland,AUB Haberdashery
Cost Breakdown
Final Photos
R1 Dancer
Design: Ripper Runway (R1)
Designer: Lila Qiu
Measurement Sheet
Full Body Photos: Front, Side, Back
Photos by: Annabel Brake
Fitting 1 Notes: 21/10/22
Note taker: Liv Hodgkinson
Photo taker: Amelie Scroggs
● Arm hole too tight
● Left sleeve too restrictive
● Let out shoulder
● Re-attach sleeves higher (dancers’sleeve)
● Hem bottom
● Boxy at sides- needs shaping (take it in slightly) and two darts at the back
● Ensure the dart follows up the sleeve
● Drop shoulder pattern
● Potential for shoulder pads
2nd Fitting: 2/11/22
Photos by: Maddie Powell
Note taker: Abi Beaven
● Pastel Pink Leotard and grey trousers. Waistband will also be grey. Leotard has lining already in it.
Costume Breakdown
The Maker and the Muse
Dancer:Tilly Skates
Costume: Funeral, Base Costume, Ripper (R1)
Scene Costume Items Buy, Make or Source Supplier Photo
Funeral Short Lace Gloves Buy Hollywood Fancy Dress
Base Costume Leotard Buy Planet Dance
Culottes Buy InTheLightBox
Belt Buy Amazon
Ripper (R1) Jacket Make
Whaley’s, AUB Digital Print Hub,AUB
Haberdashery, AUB Fabric Recycle Wall
Cost Breakdown
Final Photos
R2 Dancer
Design: Ripper Runway (R2)
Designer: Lila Qiu
Measurement Sheet
Full Body Photos: Front, Side, Back
Photos by: Annabel Brake
1st Fitting: 21/10/22
Note Taker: Olivia Hodgkinson
Photo Taker: Amelie Scroggs
● Collar sewn
● Hemmed up
● Take in inside seam
● Move sleeves up (dancers’ sleeve)
● Drop arm hole by 1cm
● Drop sleeve head
● Make hem mid-hip length
● Darts on the back no higher than arc of the back
● Ensure darts on jacket and sleeve line up (change pattern)
● Sleeve hole flattened
● Use full thread over-locker for sleeves
● Re-cut sleeve in calico for next fitting
● Add 2.5 cm to sleeve on bottom
● Pencil marks where it fits
2nd Fitting: 28/10/22
Photos by: Lila Qiu
Note taker: Abi Beavan
● First leotard was too tight - straps were rolling
● Second leotard was better but still too tight around the shoulders
● Third leotard was best - felt best
-might need a pleat in the shoulder to lift edges of armhole
-same leotard as Rai but in an xl
Costume Breakdown
The Maker and the Muse
Dancer:Amber Collins
Costume: Funeral, Base Costume, Ripper (R2)
Scene Costume Items Buy, Make or Source Supplier Photo
Funeral Short lace gloves Buy Hollywood
Fancy Dress
Base Costume Leotard Buy Basilica
Dancewear
Culottes Buy InTheLightBox
Belt Buy Amazon
Ripper (R2) Jacket Make Whaley’s, AUB Digital Print Hub, AUB Fabric Recycle Wall
Cost Breakdown
Final Photos
R3 Dancer
Design: Ripper Runway (R3)
Designer: Lila Qiu
Measurement Sheet
Full Body Photos: Front, Side, Back
Photos by: Annabel Brake
Fitting 1 Notes: 21/10/22
Note taker: Liv Hodgkinson
Photo taker: Amelie Scroggs
● Jacket too small- let out sides
● Take in back as pinned
● Re-take measurementsnew point to point measurement
● Shoulder seams to adjust
● Shorten bottom
● Change shape of seams at front
● Bring sleeves up and ensure seams line up between jacket and sleeves
● Add 8cm to sleeve pattern all around
● 4cm added to under arm split seam
● Extend pattern by 5cm
● Sleeve length needs to be 61cm
Costume Breakdown
The Maker and the Muse
Dancer: Lucy-JaneAndrews
Costume: Funeral, Base Costume, Ripper (R3)
Scene Costume Items Buy, Make or Source Supplier
Funeral Feather Headpiece Make AUB Haberdashery, AUB Fabric
Recycle Wall
Base Costume Leotard Buy Porselli Dancewear
Culottes Buy InTheLightBox
Belt Buy Amazon
Ripper (R3) Jacket Make Whaley’s, AUB Digital Print Hub, AUB Fabric
Recycle Wall
Cost Breakdown
Final Photos
R4 Dancer
Design: Ripper Runway (R4)
Designer: Lila Qiu
Measurement Sheet
Full Body Photos: Front, Side, Back
Photos by: Annabel Brake
Fitting 1 Notes: 21/10/22
Note taker: Liv Hodgkinson
Photo taker: Amelie Scroggs
● Shape sides of waistcoat
● Take hem up to mid hip
● Missing lapel
● Take back seam allowance on shoulders
● Drop darts on bust
● Create new armhole
Costume Breakdown
The Maker and the Muse
Dancer: Celeste-Estelle Patel
Costume: Funeral, Base Costume, Ripper (R4)
Scene Costume Items Buy, Make or Source
Supplier Photo
Funeral Long gloves Hire AUB Costume Store
Base Costume Leotard Buy
Planet Dance
Culottes Buy InTheLightBox
Belt Buy
Ripper (R4) Jacket Make
Whaley’s, AUB Digital Print Hub, AUB Fabric Recycle Wall
Cost Breakdown
Final Photos
R5 Dancer
Design: Ripper Runway (R5)
Designer: Lila Qiu
Measurement Sheet
Full Body Photos: Front, Side, Back
Photos by: Annabel Brake
Fitting 1 Notes: 21/10/22
Note taker: Liv Hodgkinson
Photo taker: Amelie Scroggs
● Darts no higher than shoulder blade
● Arm hole slightly lower
● Fabric caught where sleeve joins- missed a machine line
● Extend sleeve end by 1cm plus seam allowance
● Take in slightly at the sides- make waistline more fitted
● Drop bust darts by 2cm
● Bring collar down (neckline)
● 5CM add to hem line
2nd Fitting: 28/10/22
Photos by: Lila Qiu
Note taker: Abi Beavan
Felt secure and well fitted
Possible pleat over the shoulders to raise edges of armholes
Will most likely wear a bra with it
Costume Breakdown
The Maker and the Muse
Dancer: Raisa Crabtree
Costume: Funeral, Base Costume, Ripper (R5)
Scene Costume Items Buy, Make or Source Supplier Photo
Funeral Long Gloves Hire AUB Costume Store
Base Costume Leotard Buy Planet Dance
Culottes Buy InTheLightBox
Belt Buy Amazon
Ripper (R5) Jacket Make Whaley’s, AUB Digital Print Hub,AUB
Haberdashery, AUB Fabric Recycle Wall
Cost Breakdown
McQueen Dancer
Design: McQueen Ripper Design
Designer: Lila Qiu
Measurement Sheet
Full Body Photos: Front, Side, Back
Photos by: Annabel Brake
2nd Fitting: 28/10/22
Photos by: Lila Qiu
Note taker: Abi Beavan
Keeping grey shirt
Black looks too much like a sports shirt
Normally buys jeans from ASOS - length 34 waist 30
Jeans arent best fit
Prefers baggy jeans but doesnt mind as long as there is stretch
Grey top with black jeans is best
Sourcing new tartan shirt for highland and denim/off white/ white jacket to be dyed for feathers
-Keep grey shirt
-Not black shirt
-Black stretch jeans are good, need to be a bit longer
-L34 W30
-Find a shirt with more red check in it
3rd Fitting: 2/11/22
Photos by: Maddie Powell
Note taker: Liv Hodgkinson
3rd Fitting: 2/11/22
Photos by: Maddie Powell
Note taker: Liv Hodgkinson
Costume Breakdown
The Maker and the Muse
Dancer: Cobie Cheeseman
Costumes: Base Costume, Birds Shirt, Highland Fling Shirt, Ripper Suit
Scene Costume Items Buy, Make or Source Supplier Photo
Base Costume Grey long sleeve athletic shirt
Buy
Sports Direct
Black wide leg trousers Buy
Asos
Birds style Blue Shirt Buy Primark, Uniprint, Dye Room
Highland Fling style Red Check Shirt Buy Primark, Uniprint, Dye Room
Ripper Jacket Make Whaley, Uniprint, AUB Digital Print Hub, AUB Fabric Recycle Wall
Trousers Make Whaley, AUB Digital Print Hub, AUB Fabric Recycle Wall
Cost Breakdown
Final Photos
In The Drapery
Cost Breakdown
Final Photos
Running Wardrobe
Costume Plot
Original Costume Plot
Updated Costume Plot - Post Tech Week
Changes:
-Final few scenes changed from base costumes to everyone in their runway costumes. Some costumes needed to be adapted to be worn with their culottes as their costumes wouldn’t move well enough for Xs piece.
-X in Ripper full costume for last few scenes also.
-X quick changes - out of skirt with shorts underneath for solo and then back into skirt for final scene.
-Someone taking X’s jacket offstage at the end of Ripper Runway.
Laundry List
Tech Week Notes
Dress Run
-Steam X’s trousers/Iron
-Make X’s waistband bigger
-Secure Xs waistband at back
-X waistband
-X collar in pattern piece - show X how to do it
-Iron pattern fabric between shows
-X secure waistband
Ripper
-secure X jacket facing down
-Stitch down X sleeve pieces
-X taking off jacket onstage
-X trousers baggy
-X in blue shirt
-X blue shirt sleeves rolled up - stitch in place? -cut label out
Birds
-X collar up
-X collar up
-X skirt securing
X
-X culottes??
-X jacket came undone
-
Final
-X trousers tighter
-X lapel
-X not in gold leggings
Production Photos
Production Photos: Funeral
Production Photos: Highland Fling
Production Photos: Ripper
Production Photos: Birds, Wings and Feathers
Bibliography
Black Hex. (2015). Designer's Archive: Alexander McQueen's Bird. [online]. Available from:
https://blkhex.blogspot.com/2015/07/designers-archive-alexander-mcqueens-bird.h tml [Accessed 1 January 2023].
Hood Couture Magazine. (2018). McQueen and I. [Documentary]. Hood Couture Magazine. Available from: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MrfbKS-p7As&t=6s [Accessed 1 January 2023].
Met Museum. (2011). Alexander McQueen Savage Beauty May 4–August 7, 2011. [online] . Available from:
https://blog.metmuseum.org/alexandermcqueen/tag/widows-of-culloden/ [Accessed 1 January 2023].
Met Museum. (2011). Alexander McQueen Savage Beauty. [online]. Available from: https://blog.metmuseum.org/alexandermcqueen/tag/highland-rape/ [Accessed 22 December 2022]
Safecity. (2018). The politics of female representation: A sartorial exploration, Safecity. [online]. Available from: http://www.safecity.in/the-politics-of-female-representation-a-sartorial-exploration/ [Accessed 1 January 2023].
Vogue. (2014). Alexander McQueen’s Controversial “Highland Rape” Show. [online]. Available from:
https://www.vogue.com/video/watch/throwback-thursdays-with-tim-blanks-alexand er-mcqueen-s-controversial-highland-rape-show [Accessed 1 January 2023]
V&A. (n/a). ‘Bird’s Nest’ headdress. [online]. Available from:
https://www.vam.ac.uk/museumofsavagebeauty/mcq/birds-nest-headdress/ [Accessed 23 December 2022]
BBC. (2020). McQueen. [Television]. Available from: https://learningonscreen.ac.uk/ondemand/index.php/prog/1701D430?bcast=13288 6972 [Accessed 28 October 2022]
Knox, K. (2010). Alexander McQueen: genius of a generation. London, A. & C. Black
Watt, J. (2012). Alexander McQueen: fashion visionary. London, Goodman Books
List of Figures
Figure 1: redManhattan. (2022). Production Photograph. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 2-15: Brake, A. (2022). Full Body Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 16: Hodgkinson, O. (2022). In The Drapery. [image]. In possession of: the creator.
Figure 17: Hodgkinson, O. (2022). Base Costumes. [image]. In possession of: the creator.
Figure 18: Hodgkinson, O. (2022). Base Costume Example. [image]. In possession of: the creator.
Figure 19: Hodgkinson, O. (2022). Highland Fling. [image]. In possession of: the creator.
Figure 20: Qiu, L. (2022). Ripper. [image]. In possession of: the creator.
Figure 21: Beaven, A. (2022).Birds, Wings and Feathers. [image]. In possession of: the creator.
Figure 22-24: Beaven, A. (2022).Birds, Wings and Feathers. [image]. In possession of: the creator.
Figure 25-36: Black Hex. (2015). Designer’s Archive: Alexander McQueen’s Bird. [online image]. Available from https://blog.metmuseum.org/alexandermcqueen/tag/widows-of-culloden/ [Accessed 1 January 2023].
Figure 37-40: Met Museum. (2011). Alexander McQueen Savage Beauty May 4–August 7, 2011. [online image]. Available from https://blog.metmuseum.org/alexandermcqueen/tag/widows-of-culloden/ [Accessed 1 January 2023].
Figure 41-42: Safecity. (2018) The politics of female representation: A sartorial exploration. [online image]. Available from http://www.safecity.in/the-politics-of-female-representation-a-sartorial-exploration/ [Accessed 1 January 2023].
Figure 43-52: Hood Couture Magazine. (2018). McQueen and I. [screenshot]. Available from: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MrfbKS-p7As&t=6s [Accessed 1 January 2023].
Figure 53-60: Hood Couture Magazine. (2018). McQueen and I. [screenshot]. Available from: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MrfbKS-p7As&t=6s [Accessed 1 January 2023].
Figure 61: Hodgkinson, O. (2022). Highland Fling Runway (H1). [image]. In possession of: the creator.
Figure 62-64: Brake, A. (2022). Full Body Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 65-72: Powell, M. (2022). Fitting Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 73-76: Bush, F. (2022). Costume Breakdown. [photograph]. In possession of: the author.
Figure 77-82: Bush, F. (2022). Final Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the author.
Figure 83-84: redManhattan. (2022). Production Photograph. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 85: Hodgkinson, O. (2022). Highland Fling Runway (H2). [image]. In possession of: the creator.
Figure 86-88: Brake, A. (2022). Full Body Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 89-91: Qiu, L. (2022). Fitting Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 92-97: Powell, M. (2022). Fitting Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 98-101: Bush, F. (2022). Costume Breakdown. [photograph]. In possession of: the author.
Figure 102-107: Bush, F. (2022). Final Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the author.
Figure 108-109: redManhattan. (2022). Production Photograph. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 110: redManhattan. (2022). Production Photograph. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 111: Figure 61: Hodgkinson, O. (2022). Highland Fling Runway (H3). [image]. In possession of: the creator.
Figure 112-114: Brake, A. (2022). Full Body Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 115-117: Qiu, L. (2022). Fitting Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 118-124: Powell, M. (2022). Fitting Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 125-130: Bush, F. (2022). Costume Breakdown. [photograph]. In possession of: the author.
Figure 131-136: Bush, F. (2022). Final Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the author.
Figure 137: redManhattan. (2022). Production Photograph. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 138-140: redManhattan. (2022). Production Photograph. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 141: Hodgkinson, O. (2022). Highland Fling Runway (H4). [image]. In possession of: the creator.
Figure 142-144: Brake, A. (2022). Full Body Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 145-146: Powell, M. (2022). Fitting Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 147-155: Powell, M. (2022). Fitting Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 156-159: Bush, F. (2022). Costume Breakdown. [photograph]. In possession of: the author.
Figure 160-165: Bush, F. (2022). Final Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the author.
Figure 166: redManhattan. (2022). Production Photograph. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 167-168: redManhattan. (2022). Production Photograph. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 169: Beaven, A. (2022). Birds, Wings and Feathers (B1). [image]. In possession of: the creator.
Figure 170-172: Brake, A. (2022). Full Body Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 173-175: Qiu, L. (2022). Fitting Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 176-181: Lacey, B. (2022). Fitting Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 182-187: Powell, M. (2022). Fitting Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 188-192: Bush, F. (2022). Costume Breakdown. [photograph]. In possession of: the author.
Figure 193-198: Bush, F. (2022). Final Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the author.
Figure 199-200: redManhattan. (2022). Production Photograph. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 201-203: redManhattan. (2022). Production Photograph. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 204: Beaven, A. (2022). Birds, Wings and Feathers (B2). [image]. In possession of: the creator.
Figure 205-207: Brake, A. (2022). Full Body Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 208-210: Qiu, L. (2022). Fitting Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
List of Figures
Figure 211-216: Lacey, B. (2022). Fitting Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 217-222: Powell, M. (2022). Fitting Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 223-226: Bush, F. (2022). Costume Breakdown. [photograph]. In possession of: the author.
Figure 227-232: Bush, F. (2022). Final Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the author.
Figure 233-236: redManhattan. (2022). Production Photograph. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 237-238: redManhattan. (2022). Production Photograph. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 239: Beaven, A. (2022). Birds, Wings and Feathers (B3). [image]. In possession of: the creator.
Figure 240-242: Brake, A. (2022). Full Body Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 243-249: Qiu, L. (2022). Fitting Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 250-255: Lacey, B. (2022). Fitting Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 256-261: Powell, M. (2022). Fitting Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 262-265: Bush, F. (2022). Costume Breakdown. [photograph]. In possession of: the author.
Figure 266-271: Bush, F. (2022). Final Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the author.
Figure 272-273: redManhattan. (2022). Production Photograph. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 274-275: redManhattan. (2022). Production Photograph. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 276: Beaven, A. (2022). Birds, Wings and Feathers (B4). [image]. In possession of: the creator.
Figure 277-279: Brake, A. (2022). Full Body Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 280-285: Lacey, B. (2022). Fitting Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 286-289: Powell, M. (2022). Fitting Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 290-296: Powell, M. (2022). Fitting Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 297-300: Bush, F. (2022). Costume Breakdown. [photograph]. In possession of: the author.
Figure 301-306: Bush, F. (2022). Final Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the author.
Figure 307-310: redManhattan. (2022). Production Photograph. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 311-312: redManhattan. (2022). Production Photograph. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 313: Qiu, L. (2022). Ripper (R1). [image]. In possession of: the creator.
Figure 314-316: Brake, A. (2022). Full Body Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 317-322: Scroggs, A. (2022). Fitting Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 323-325: Powell, M. (2022). Fitting Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 326-329: Bush, F. (2022). Costume Breakdown. [photograph]. In possession of: the author.
Figure 330-335: Bush, F. (2022). Final Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the author.
Figure 336-338: redManhattan. (2022). Production Photograph. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 339-341: redManhattan. (2022). Production Photograph. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 342: Qiu, L. (2022). Ripper (R2). [image]. In possession of: the creator.
Figure 343-345: Brake, A. (2022). Full Body Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 346-351: Scroggs, A. (2022). Fitting Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 352-354: Qiu, L. (2022). Fitting Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 355-358: Bush, F. (2022). Costume Breakdown. [photograph]. In possession of: the author.
Figure 359-364: Bush, F. (2022). Final Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the author.
Figure 365-366: redManhattan. (2022). Production Photograph. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 367: Qiu, L. (2022). Ripper (R3). [image]. In possession of: the creator.
Figure 368-370: Brake, A. (2022). Full Body Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 371-376: Scroggs, A. (2022). Fitting Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 377-380: Bush, F. (2022). Costume Breakdown. [photograph]. In possession of: the author.
Figure 381-386: Bush, F. (2022). Final Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the author.
Figure 387-388: redManhattan. (2022). Production Photograph. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 389-390: redManhattan. (2022). Production Photograph. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 391: Qiu, L. (2022). Ripper (R4). [image]. In possession of: the creator.
Figure 392-394: Brake, A. (2022). Full Body Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 395-400: Scroggs, A. (2022). Fitting Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 401-404: Bush, F. (2022). Costume Breakdown. [photograph]. In possession of: the author.
Figure 405-410: Bush, F. (2022). Final Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the author.
Figure 411-412: redManhattan. (2022). Production Photograph. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 413-415: redManhattan. (2022). Production Photograph. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 416: Qiu, L. (2022). Ripper (R5). [image]. In possession of: the creator.
Figure 417-419: Brake, A. (2022). Full Body Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 420-426: Scroggs, A. (2022). Fitting Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 427-429: Qiu, L. (2022). Fitting Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 430-433: Bush, F. (2022). Costume Breakdown. [photograph]. In possession of: the author.
Figure 434-439: Bush, F. (2022). Final Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the author.
Figure 440: redManhattan. (2022). Production Photograph. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 441-442: redManhattan. (2022). Production Photograph. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
List of Figures
Figure 443: Qiu, L. (2022). Ripper McQueen. [image]. In possession of: the creator.
Figure 444-446: Brake, A. (2022). Full Body Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 447-453: Qiu, L. (2022). Fitting Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 454-459: Powell, M. (2022). Fitting Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 460-465: Powell, M. (2022). Fitting Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 466-469: Bush, F. (2022). Costume Breakdown. [photograph]. In possession of: the author.
Figure 470- 475: Bush, F. (2022). Final Photos. [photograph]. In possession of: the author.
Figure 476-480: redManhattan. (2022). Production Photograph. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 481-483: redManhattan. (2022). Production Photograph. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 484: Hodgkinson,O. (2022). In The Drapery. [image]. In possession of: the creator.
Figure 485: Sweeney, L. (2022). Final Photo. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 486-489: redManhattan. (2022). Production Photograph. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 490-491: redManhattan. (2022). Production Photograph. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 492-493: redManhattan. (2022). Production Photograph. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 494: redManhattan. (2022). Production Photograph. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 495-496: redManhattan. (2022). Production Photograph. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Figure 497-498: redManhattan. (2022). Production Photograph. [photograph]. In possession of: the photographer.
Appendix
Initial Meeting Notes: 3/10/22
-Adele - Costume Coordinator
-jane White - Course Leader for Dance and the Choreographer
-Performance Dates - 1&2 December
-Pavilion Dance South-West
-Set up as a catwalk - audience around three sides
-Research
-BA Dance website to see contemporary dance style
-McQueen Documentary
-Costumes must:
-fit the body well
-move easily
-sustainability
-Base costumes (13 dancers - 12 female 1 male)
-Neutral tones
-Leotard and long skirts
-Budget £2000
Key Scenes:
-Funeral (his funeral)
-Runway 1: Highland Fling
-In the Drapery (when he was putting clothes together - magnetised toile)
-Runway 2: Ripper (based on Jack the Ripper collection)
-Isabella Blow (Hats, shapes, silhouettes)
-Runway 3: Birds and Feathers
-Conclusion
Making: Runway pieces and some extras
Slightly less movement needed
Catwalk-esque
Highland Fling:
-Widows of Culloden
-Highland Rape
^combined
McQueen had Scottish heritage
Long floaty skirts
Black and red (black tulle)
Ripper:
-Based on the Jack the Ripper Collection and other collections
-JW liked the jacket silhouette and fabric printed
-Making 5
-Buy and adapt not make from scratch
-Lots of texture - dye room
Birds and Feathers:
-Based across several collections with wings and feathers. Also Madame Bleu
-Repurposed calico jacket toiles
-Ombre
-Printing
-Embroidery stitch and foiling
-Headdresses
Tomorrow: Looking at designs
-Who will be making which ones
-Could be makers assigned to a specific collection or everyone does a bit of everything
-Funeral, base costumes and McQueen will be sourced.
-Mondays - production meeting 1-2 Tuesday morning -Milena in
-Tuesdays are good time to grab a dancer
-Wednesday 3-4 meeting with Jane White
-Fridays will be together in studio 4 (this week is dye room instead)
-Can go to the dance rehearsal Wednesday.
-Tomorrow - measuring tips - Milena
-bring tape measure and notebooks
-designers at 9:30, everyone else at 10
-Makers in Tues, Wed, Fri
-Pull fabric - dye room
-tartans, calico, white, red ball of wool
Initial Meeting Notes: 4/10/22
-We have a box of fabric and a roll of calico
-See if you can go backstage at the Pavilion Dance to see facilities etc.
-Before Tech Week
-There should be info on the website on the facilities
-Funeral scene - base costumes and jacket (interesting silhouette) - look in costume store.
-Research McQueen’s funeral
-Abi is taking out £200 of the budget so we have money available for this week
-Who will be breaking down?
-Maddie, makers, me?
-Fitting at the same time as ‘As the Sun Goes Down’
-Find someone to help with fittings instead of Ellie
-For notes, photos etc.
-Feathers -2nd hand feather boas?
-scrap store?
-ebay?
-charity shop?
-Tech Week - know how you are getting home
Ripper
-entrails
-stitching over wool?
-dissolvable fabric?
-digital print?
5 Jackets (worn with sourced)
-every maker will make a jacket each
-stretch white denim
-flexibility
-no lining
-bias binding - white or red?
Highland Fling
-Jacket
-Elasticated waist
-magnet skirt
-draped dress
-pleated trousers
-draped dress is backed and magnetised
-tulle skirt
-top - fraying squares backed on mesh
-tulle skirt
-dress
-magnetised at the back
-black lace through skirt
-tartan bodice
-black lace, breaking down, what does beautiful breaking down look like?
Wings and Feathers
-based with calico toiles
-calico based, gold, blue
-Trouser Design
-gold thread stitched into the back
-blue mesh
-digital print?
-trousers are made and top is adapted
-Asymmetric Dress (½ size test)
-spray paint? Stitch, feathers
-gold thread couching
-foiling
-skirt - making
-feathers, scrap fabric?feather texture
-top adapted
-Jacket Design
-gold leggings
-jacket - dying printing
-Skirt design (½ size test)
Initial Meeting with Choreographer: 5/10/22
-Started seeing what develops with choreography
-JW has had a meeting with lighting director
-He has made a pinterest board
-Lighting colour palette is quite stark white - will find out if it is off white or stark white - will affect colours we choose (leotards)
-Projection at the back of the stage
-will find out if he will do black or grey floor
-measuring - pronouns, phone number, email address
-jackets
-making them out of stretch white denim
-dancers will be cast by monday (tell makers)
9-12 monday at pavilion dance - will cast the dancers after that - will email over
-week 3 friday 21st 10-12 - trying on the jackets - can be altered after that point (tell makers)
-funeral - couture - they have to be able to dance - black coats
-McQueen
-isn’t always McQueen - needs a base costume - match colour palette
-masculine enough base costume and same colour palette
-will only add jackets to the base costume
-he has a ripper jacket but he is more glamorous than the other five jackets
-the other scenes he should blend in with the others
-could have a red check shirt in the highland one, denim one in feathers
-he is wearing ‘normal clothes’
-could do the mcqueen skull on the back of the denim jacket
-McQueen’s outfit could wear the trousers as well - Tell maeve
-there is a jacket for that outfit - get a similar fabric for the trousers
-fascinators - funeral/ isabella blows section
-abi having a look for them
-others at the end might all have some part of blue or gold
-add to the base costume
-so everyone at the end all feels the same / togetherness
-funeral is silhouetted so coats dont have to be black
-making the blue feather collar a bit smaller
-Milena is looking to see if we can get the ripper fabric cheaper
Makers and Designers meeting
-5 ripper jackets and 1 jacket for McQueen - white denim jacket
-Put names of dancers on the measurement sheets
Meeting: 10/10/22
-Funeral jackets will be coats, black macs, leather jackets, tail coats, contemporary jackets, silhouette
-They will try out jackets to rehearse in - Wednesday
-fascinators for later - feather scene
-cut calico to magnetise - to rehearse the draping scene
-ripper jackets- white black and red
-starting pattern drafting tomorrow - jackets
-wed pattern adaptation
-need white stretch denim next week
-next week calico toile
-next tues or friday look at calico toile and decide if it looks good
-skull screen printed gold foiling on the back of McQueens ripper jacket
Meeting: 11/10/22
Measure Lucy Andrews and Alexis Henry
Lucy - Ripper
Alexis - Highland Fling
H1 - leah making the skirt
Find leggings for H4
Gaby - McQueen’s Trousers
Production Meeting with
Choreographer: 12/10/22
INTHE DRAPERY
-Pattern piece scene - duet (4-6 pieces max)
-taking jacket apart for practicing the in the drapery scene
-calico jacket might contrast better than the grey jacket
-will be putting it on a person - mannequin who comes to life
-starting with part of a jacket
-waist coat kinda thing and the sleeves and pockets go on
-likes the canvases and shoulder pads etc showing
-magnets in the jacket to attach to
-tweed deconstructed pieces in the dance costume store - brown rust colours etc
-could add
-two mirrored duets - not necessarily matching jackets but two of them
-find an extra jacket in the recycling store
BASE COSTUMES
-ombreing the culottes for negative/ positive impact - may depend on the floor colour and light colours
-mix and match leotard and culotte colours
-prefer culottes
-no white leotards - neutral flesh kind of colours -e.g antique rose leotard
-email Lightinthebox to chase up culottes
-talk toAlison about culottes
-potentially shein?
-need culottes asap
-something to connect the leotard to the culottes so they aren’t so starkly divided at the waistband
-maybe sash of the third colour in the middle
-1. Could sll have all three colours 2. Could have something in the middle
-long sleeve shirt for cobie
CPD hours
-hemming culottes and taking jackets apart
-headpieces that are more elaborate will be harder to choreograph
-might have to disregard the headpieces or put them on other people
5 or 6 whole group scenes with all the dancers in the scene together
Not runway scenes
No extra or minimal extra costume elements on top of the base costume
Meeting Notes: 17/10/22
Friday
-feathers jackets, ripper jackets
-toile ripper jackets - so can do top fabric
-base costumes next week
-look for cullotes - grey and black maybe?
-link in supervision folder for cullotes
-Adele not in meeting next monday
Base costumes
-contact dance shops
-Jane doesn’t seem to want headpieces
-beginning definitely not?
-get jackets out and figure out what they will need to do
-look at sourcing the mcqueen stuff - base costumes and jackets etc
-screen printing -prep takes the most time
-digital printing -have to book a slot - doesnt take long at all
-screen printing back of mcqueen jackets
-screen print on white fabric, then applique onto the back
-
-book digital printing slot - next wednesday?
Fittings
-ripper people and feather people
v
-pop up fitting space
-make sure everything is happening
-liv making notes
-makers fitting - designers directing
-speak to kat about metreage for a suit (Tues)
-5 ripper jackets, mcqueen jacket and trousers
McQueen
-kat helping makers
-kat has a block for jacket and trousers
-will need digital printing stuff to make it
Production Meeting: 19/10/22
-fitting schedule
-order denim
-how much fabric? All denim?
-grey floor
-white can be very white
-pattern piece costumes - one sleeve, two lapels, two big pockets, one breast pocket, a belt, one cuff, buttons
-two or three tape measures as props
-wants them to have magnets in and then get them to figure out choreography
-start with sleeveless base then add sleeves etc
-cuff wraps round
-decorative pad stitching
-the dancers might write on it in the show
-make one first to choreograph with
-insdie magnets bigger
-order cullotes
-Funeral
-base costumes with black jackets
-low lights
-dont want pinker base costumes to stand out
-flatter fascinators with little veils?
-something matches first and last scene
-fascinators?
-could be preset
-hair probably flat to head maybe tied at nape?
-take black jackets back to costume store etc
-makers making ripper jackets with extra seam allowance down back
-different trousers for throughout - three different colours - black, cream and ripper trousers
-black trousers and neutral grey long sleeve top
-ripper mcqueen is whole different keep tshirt on
-puts wings and highland fling on over
-make mcqueen trousers bigger and with elastic
-ask cobie about long sleeve
-not a very tight underarmour shirt
-test digital printing
-take jersey lycra for around base costumes for fitting
Funeral
-stretch lace cumberbund?
-lace mourning band?
-gloves?
Meeting: 26/10/22
-chosen music for ripper and highland
-Designers making thumbnails to show makeup artists
-Abi leading makeup
-fitting tent
-bring box of bras to the fitting
-ask cobie to come at the end
-ask about the base costume
-10-1 3-5 next wednesday
-fitting highland and birds
-not fitting ripper
-send schedule of that to jane early so she can organise her schedule
-before 12 on monday?
-cobie base costume?
-do it in groups?
-book digital printing session next wednesday
-organise mcqueen dig printing
-no headdresses funeral
-headdress in feathers?
-headdresses or something, blue or gold element? Unify the base costume
wearers
-someone headdress, someone belt, someone etcetc. Accent feather additions. Gold or blue.
-same thing in funeral and birds in same person but in different colours, match funeral vs match birds - blue, gold
-base costumes waistbands
-waistband width
-waistband same colour as the culottes
-could do waistband a different texture - fake leather?, stretch crushed velvet?
-test does stretch fabric roll
-could try a rug non stick roll stuff
-fabricland might have something similar
-take stretch lycra to fitting to test
-Making waistbands - CPD hours
-no production meeting next week
-email Cobie
-where normally shops
-what size he normally wears
-want to get stuff for him to try on on friday
-can always take back
-have something for him to try on
Meeting: 21/10/22
- Alexis leotard get something to represent the sleeves
- Make sure everyone has leotards or something for fitting
- Get the pattern piece costume to Jane - leah - adele asked jane about latest needed
- Go around makers and see where they are at - let Adele know
- 12-12:30 meeting with makers and adele (adele checking with kat and milena)
- Contact cobie- want him to be comfortable so would he like to buy jeans - cc jane and adele in
- Would he like to have a chat about it
-ask alison how we would go about that
- Lila in rehearsal Wednesday morning - runway rehearsal?
- Primark receipt
-pay lila back
-CPD hours - make a list - friday morning in studio 4
-waistbands (sew on overlocker)
-ask milena about making waistbands - tues
-get fabric from fabricland
-make a prototype (friday)
-do cpd hours waistbands (next friday)
-funeral bits?
-altering leotards
-annabelle working with us next few fridays? Cpd
-ask maeve and gaby about mcqueen pieces size
-abi and lila in dye room on friday - abi dyeing and lila screen printing
-ripper jackets have extra seam allowance at centre back
-ask makers about ripper samples - ask tues 12 look -friday morning
-backstage team -
-designers sitting out front making notes at tech week
-tech week
-think about laundry for leotards
-preassessment - schedule a block of time
-get change in studio 2
-they dance around about 3 times and jane, designer nad adele will be looking at every costumes
-fast paced
-couplpe extra people in studio 3 being supervision assistants, keeping everything going
-monday - go backstage pavilion dance
-check out facilities
Production Meeting: 9/11/22
-fittings - skirts in floor work?
-send over photos from fittings
-abi doing poppys skirt for tomorrow for working on poppys solo
-sam in next week- something of each colour to look at under the lights
-next thursday 2-5 lighting fella in
-cobie trousers
-culottes
-jane having a look tonight for some culotte style - going to send link overe?
-cobie might wear the calico trousers during the birds scene
-dance store - shorts for under culottes - hiding bums - do for dress parade?
-can you fit the under shorts?
-check out on dress parade
-someone in the leotards and culottes - thursday
-velcro jackets?
-leaving collar nad pocket on
-putting writing and stitching on
-magnets
-put a fake needle tied on
-put lots of things to do on it
-basket prop thing to put the bits in to bring in
-put bits in - bit of fabric in
-rotary wheel
-fabric with bit of sharpie pattern pieces on calico fabric
-do it for wednesday
-two tape measures
-scissors
Wednesday
-two tape measures
-jacket
-fabric
-tools - tape measure
-shoulder pads - ask milena, etc. buy from morplan?
-birds, ripper, pattern piece
-go to pavilion on Monday - with milena? - talk to jane about venue booking
-Jane likes belts, wrist things, and headbands
-
Production Meeting: 14/11/22
-Cobie - Tues @ 3
-Have Cobie try on trousers in rehearsal
-Milena - shoulder pads
-Can we use the washing machine - ask milena
-Wash on wednesday night - dry by thursday afternoon
-can leotards tumble dry
-funeral - gloves from costume store, fascinators
-black lace cumberbunds
-starting wed afternoon - start with headbands
-waistbands- could use poppers to attach to waisband of culottes
-big poppers -
-cpd
-Rianna - needs shorts under the skirt
-look in dance costume store
-take skirt to rehearsal to test
-
Meeting: 22/11/22
-first time choreographer seeing costumes
-dancers need to be able to move
-costume going down on monday
-space booked from 12
-1st hour getting ready and makeup
-starting at 3
-either run of whole show
-stop at runway scenes will do line up
-then run the runway
-rest of the run - me liv milena adele
-makers in runways
-running order - all runways together or run through -
-fling quick change
-leah - get everyone into costumes and come through for runway scenes
-order safety pins
-one of each size
-phoebe every night? Amie every night? Amelie?
-amelie, maddie, amie?phoebe?,
-Studio 2, studio 3
-before 2 makeup going on
-2-3 sections stand up and look in rows and makeup check
-after - highland fling, ripper, wings, maybe at once - get all dressed together
-3 do a run
-adele managing makers coming in to see their part
-done by about 4:30
-tech week timetable coming up end of this week
-go to pav on monday to organise backstage
-costume ready by 4 friday
-anything else that needs to go down will be taken down
-accessories in run or in line up - either or
-label accessories - satin labels?
Pre-assessment Notes
