2021/1 January-February

2021 January-February

Volume 43 Issue 165

THROUGH THE PINE NEEDLES T here are several classifications of bonsai art. Although I understand

all forms of bonsai, I prefer to enjoy, appreciate and promote classical bonsai as established by the Japanese in 1829. This type of bonsai was fostered and practiced by my teacher’s father, Toshiji Yoshimura who helped establish what is currently known as classical bonsai as it is practiced in Japan. He taught his son, Yuji Yoshimura, who educated, instilled and shared his appreciation of the art with me.

Mr. Yoshimura illuminated and explained the essence of classical bonsai to me for 30 years and encouraged me to promote the art his family practiced for nearly

100 years. I carefully listened and watched his thought process on the design and art behind his bonsai and attentively practiced with him during the creation and display of classical bonsai. Teaching was of paramount importance to Mr. Yoshimura who showed and explained his style of presenting programs and workshops.

He encouraged me to continue in his father’s and his footsteps to teach, promote and share their expression of classical bonsai. Of course I absorbed nearly everything he shared with me and digested all the little-known information and combined it with my own two horticultural degrees, skill and taste

to promote the art.

For over 50 years I have demonstrated, conducted workshops and taught classical bonsai around the world.

I organized 31 symposia, six US National Bonsai Exhibitions and authored 11 books. Additionally, 164 printed issues of International BONSAI have been published during the past 42 years.

To continue the advancement of classical bonsai art to a broader world-wide audience I have decided to suspend the printed edition and to expand my educational offerings with the introduction of International Bonsai OnLine which is a FREE digital magazine.

This is the first issue of the publication which is similar in design to the prior 164 issues. New information, as well as unavailable valuable articles printed over 40 years ago will be updated for your education and appreciation.

I hope you enjoy our new International BONSAI OnLine magazine and will subscribe to the publication with your friends, club members and clients. When we can begin to travel again, I hope to greet you at bonsai gatherings. The 2021 7TH US National Bonsai Exhibition on September 11-12, 2021 is a perfect time to meet and share the art we all love.

Please be safe and continue to care, improve, expand and most importantly, enjoy your bonsai.

INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 3 2021/NO. 1

FEATURES 9 Mycorrhizae & Bonsai

By William N. Valavanis TM

14 Tropical Flowering & Fruiting Bonsai

By Carlos A. Morales

Volume 43 Number 1 Issue Number 165

2021/NO. 1 Publisher & Editor William N. Valavanis

20 Training Dwarf Kumquat Shohin Bonsai

By Kyosuke Gun, Bonsai World Magazine, Satomi Uchida, Peter Warren

Contributing Editor Julian R. Adams

21 Book Review– The Ultimate Bonsai Handbook

By William N. Valavanis

Contributors Jonas Dupuich Kyosuke Gun Carlos A. Morales Satomi Uchida Peter Warren

24 Repotting A Trident Maple Bonsai

By Jonas Dupuich

Staff Harvey B. Carapella, Art Director Joseph L. Noga, Image Director Alan Adair, Editorial Assistant Marc Arpag, Editorial Assistant

Published periodically (6 times a year) by THE INTERNATIONAL BONSAI ARBORETUM for the educational promotion and expansion of the artistic and horticultural expression of classical bonsai art on an international scale for English language bonsai fanciers.

International BONSAI— ISSN: 0198-9561

DEPARTMENTS 3 Through The Pine Needles 5 Gallery: International BONSAI Masterpieces 32 About The Cover– Crabapple 36 International BONSAI Digest – 22ND Hwa Fong National Bonsai Exhibition

The opinions expressed in International BONSAI are those of the authors and do not necessarily represent those of the International Bonsai Arboretum.

Manuscripts, art work and photos submitted for possible publication will be returned if accompanied by self addressed, stamped envelopes.

Address all correspondence regarding subscriptions, advertising and editorial matter to: THE INTERNATIONAL BONSAI ARBORETUM William N. Valavanis, Publisher & Editor P.O. Box 23894 Rochester, New York 14692-3894 Telephone (585) 334-2595 Fax (585) 334-6239

E-mail: WNV@internationalbonsai.com WWW.internationalbonsai.com Blog: valavanisbonsaiblog.com Designed by Harvey B. Carapella Color Separations by Joseph L. Noga

© Copyright 2021 by The International Bonsai Arboretum, World rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the written permission of the publisher.

4 INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 2021/NO. 1

G a

l

l

e r y

HIROSHI TAKEYAMA

INTERNATIONAL BONSAI MASTERPIECES

Satsuki azalea, Rhododendron indicum cv., trained in the informal upright style. There are several thousand of different cultivars of Satsuki azaleas selected for their flower color, form, size and growth habits. The flowers tend to be on the large size so bigger bonsai are usually trained so they will be in proportion to the

bonsai presentation. It was started from a cutting and grown in the field for decades to develop the trunk size, form and the well formed surface root area. The bonsai has been shaped by Hiroshi Takeyama, Fuyo-en Bonsai Garden in Omiya bonsai Village, Japan.

INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 5 2021/NO. 1

JOE NOGA PHOTOS

ade ood

Dwarf Alberta spruce, Picea glauca ‘Conica,’ trained in the formal upright style, the natural form for this tree. It native to North America and a popular dwarf conifer for landscapes. This bonsai was started from a cutting grown by Nick Lenz and has gone through many transformations. Branches tend to grow upright and

6 INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 2021/NO. 1

are difficult to maintain in horizontal positions which requires a tremendous amount of fine wiring. Nick Lenz also hand crafted the container for his bonsai which he donated to the Montreal Botanical Garden who displayed it in the 2012 3rd U.S. National Bonsai Exhibition.

Trident maple, Acer buergerianum, is native to Japan and China.

This root-over-rock style bonsai suggests a tree growing over a stone, perhaps near a river bank or other body of water. This is one of the finest species for growing over rocks because the roots easily attach to stones and the species is vigorous. This

magnificent bonsai was originally imported from Japan many years ago by Kenji Miyata who trained it for 14 years. The stone is from the Ibi River in Japan. This Trident maple bonsai was displayed by Anthony Alario in the 2018 6th U.S. National Bonsai Exhibition.

INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 7 2021/NO. 1

Japanese black pine, Pinus thunbergii, trained in the informal upright style from field grown nursery stock. Japanese black pines are the “King” of bonsai because of their beauty, vigor and adaptation to bonsai training techniques. This bonsai was originally trained

by Boon Manakitivipart who used this tree to train his students

8 INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 2021/NO. 1

on basic pine techniques for over 15 years. He named his bonsai “Godzilla” because of the massive trunk and impression it presents. One of his students, John Kirby fell in love with the tree while training it and added it to his collection. He displayed it in the 2018 6th U.S. National Bonsai Exhibition.

Inotchose the story of this bonsai, because it’s the biggest, or old-

National Bonsai Exhibition.

It might sound strange, but I returned to the same Adirondack mountain location to share the news and my appreciation to the “elders” of the woods. Shortly after quietly

Mycorrhizae & Bonsai

est or rarest in my collection; it is none of those. It does however, have a fascinating story to tell and a very personal connection for me. We have traveled the country together and shared good times. We are truly family.

Our relationship began in the fall of 2010 collecting with my brotherin-law, Ray Zito at his camp in northern New York. Earlier in June of that year, an Eastern white cedar, Thuja occidentalis, I had collected from the same area and trained for over 20 years won the Best Native American Bonsai Award at the 2010 2ND US

M ycorrhiza means “fungus root,” which creates a symbiotic relationship

between roots and fungus. Once introduced to the root system of a plant, mycorrhizae create a microscopic network that acts as a living extension of the roots actively delivering nutrients and water to the plant.

Mycorrhizae work to increase the root mass by up to 50 times the original size. This helps to increase the water uptake of the plant.

The mycorrhizae form hyphae

By William N. Valavanis

expressing my respect, I almost tripped on a small tree, much smaller than the initial size of its “grandfather”.

It too was growing in a rock pocket and had amazing movement close to its base although the rest was a

which extends from the roots into the soil. In landscape situations they can reach 20 to 25 inches past the drip line of a tree. This network in containers will lead to less water running out of the pot and more used by the plant. It’s interesting that the hyphae can absorb water throughout their entire length, opposed to a root that can only absorb water at the tip. This happens without making the soil any wetter. Most people consider mycorrhizae essential for pines and other

evergreens. However, approximately 95% of plant species form a symbiotic relationship with the beneficial mycorrhizae.

Endomycorrhizae And Ectomycorrhizae There are two general classifications of mycorrhizae: endomycorrhizae and ectomycorrhizae.

Endomycorrhizae fungi live inside and outside the root, being dependent on the host plant to survive. They A deciduous bonsai with endomycorrhizae throughout the root ball.

WM. N. VALAVANIS PHOTOS

Pine bonsai root system showing ectomycorrhizae throughout the root ball. The white root tips indicate the ideal time for root pruning and transplanting.

INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 9 2021/NO. 1

represent approximately 85% of all mycorrhizae and are common to a great number of species.

Ectomycorrhizae can live without a plant host. Both types have multiple strains that favor certain plant species or different stages of plant growth.

Ectomycorrhizae are common to pine, Larch, spruce, beech and arborvitae among many more species.

Endomycorrhizae are common to boxwood, maple, elm, figs and cherry and many other species.

A complete listing and additional information can be found at: www.

Mycorrhizae.com

Importance For Bonsai Introducing mycorrhizae to the soil reduces plant stress which occurs during pruning branches and roots as well as shaping bonsai. Although mycorrhizae are usually present in the soil and root systems, they are not often visible. When transplanting healthy plants, such as pines, mycorrhizae are most visible. Usually I harvest sections of pruned roots and old soil which has a great number of mycorrhizae. When repotting other bonsai a bit of the inoculated soil with mycorrhizae is introduced into the new mix. I believe using fresh

Two large RAF Dwarf Scots pine bonsai are being transplanted. The bonsai on the left has been root pruned.

When root pruning bonsai, mycorrhizae are often harvested and cut into smaller pieces to inoculate other trees, especially those which are not in the best of health.

mycorrhizae may be better than old.

The importance of mycorrhizae has created an industry which supplies inoculants to greenhouse and nursery growers to improve their crops.

Mycorrhizal Applications (www. mycorrhizae.com) is a leader in that field and has a comprehensive web site with an abundance of information.

This article has been created with information from their website with their permission.

Jerald P. Stowell authored a detailed article in two parts: “Mycorrhizae- Nature’s Universal Health Plan For Plants,” which

A root hook or a bamboo chopstick is used to tease the root ball. Notice the mycorrhizae has grown through the drainage screen.

The bottom of the pine root ball shows the drainage holes and great colony of mycorrhizae. The root ball will be harvested and cut into smaller sections.

10 INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 2021/NO. 1

appeared in the 1994/NO. 4 and 1995/NO. 4 issues of International BONSAI. I highly recommend these two articles for additional detailed comprehensive information on mycorrhizae.

A healthy colony of mycorrhizae growing in the root ball of a pine bonsai. This is an ideal condition for vigorous roots and the bonsai can easily withstand drastic root pruning with no problems because the roots are inoculated with mycorrhizae.

After the root ball is teased the roots on the bottom of the trunk are pruned.

The pine bonsai after root pruning and is ready for potting. Note the abundance of mycorrhizae.

These 2 back copies include the 2 part article

MycorrhizaeNature’s Universal Health Plan For Plants

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INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 13 2021/NO. 1

Tropical Flowering & Fruiting Bonsai

By Carlos A. Morales

B onsai art, during the 1990s, was dominated by pines, junipers and

other amazing trees with beautiful trunks and foliage. Outside the bonsai

world, flowering and fruiting bonsai tend to capture the public’s attention.

However, flowering bonsai exhibitions are rare, but this has been changing.

In Japan and Taiwan bonsai enthusiasts have specialized shows for flowering bonsai, especially azaleas.

A few exhibitions featuring

JOE NOGA

Shohin bonsai composition displayed by Carlos Morales and Jorge Suria at the 2018 6th US National Bonsai Exhibition. The top shohin bonsai, Nia, Neea buxifolia, and the lower shohin bonsai, Water jasmine, Wrightia regilosa, were combined for an excellent composition.

14 INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 2021/NO. 1

Ixora, Ixora coccinea, trained as a shohin bonsai by Carlos Morales. There are many cultivars with various flower colors and growth characteristics. The dwarf cultivars are often trained for bonsai.

There are other issues to take into consideration with large size bonsai.

Proportions are easier to obtain, but it is more difficult to get all the branches blooming at the same time for better presentation. Three important factors are needed to achieve this overall blooming: the plant health, pruning techniques and correct use of fertilizer.

Items To Consider When Preparing Flowering Bonsai For Exhibitions Flowering Seasons Each species has a specific blossoming period. Some species can bloom several times in one season, others during different seasons like Gardenias. The season will affect the exhibit time in which this bonsai can be presented with flower. You can try to force the plant outside of its blooming season,

AUTHOR PROVIDED PHOTOS

the design of the tree might initially be different. To achieve that, take in consideration the branch position and spacing between branches, especially for small and medium size bonsai. Normally we are focused on the foliage size and growth, but when you are expecting to display the tree, either with flower or fruit, you should pay attention to how it grows. In some species, the flower will appear on the tip of the branch after various internodes of growth such as Bougainvillea. Other species, will grow before or close to the new growth after pruning, such as Gardenia and Dwarf kumquat. Although rare, some trees will bloom on their trunk, like the Jaboticaba. The flower or fruit size will also directly affect the branch position, since larger flowers or fruit will require more spacing between branches. Spacing is very important for good aesthetics and better appreciation of the tree. The design will be influenced by the direction of the flower or fruit; whether it hangs down like Water jasmine or grows upward like Ixora. Sometimes you will see a mame size bonsai with a big flower. It will probably capture lots of attention, but I prefer a better size proportion.

Ixora, Ixora coccinea, trained as a shohin bonsai with light pink blossoms. It was trained and displayed by Jose “Kookie” Alvarez in a 2018 Bonsai Symposium in Puerto Rico.

Norm Nelson dwarf ixora, Ixora coccinea ‘Norm Nelson,’ trained and displayed by Robert Kempinski at the 2014 4th US National Bonsai Exhibitionn who also carved the display table from Black walnut.

JOE NOGA

flowering bonsai include: Koju Ten Exhibition in Kanuma, Japan, which specializes in Satsuki azalea bonsai. The Japan Satsuki Azalea Festival, held in Kanuma, Japan every May specializes in Satsuki azalea bonsai. The Taiwan Flower & Fruit Association Exhibition features Bougainvillea bonsai. Bougainvillea bonsai are the tropical equivalent of Satsuki azalea bonsai.

Bonsai artists are always trying to improve their tree designs in many ways. Bonsai practitioners mainly design their trees based on compact foliage and a nice trunk. They usually don’t take into consideration the fruit or flower when developing their design. However, to prepare this type of tree for an exhibition, professionals need to take into consideration if the tree will be exhibited in flower or fruit before determining the design.

Flowers are the reproductive part of the tree and, in some species, the most attractive part. Impressive and colorful flowers on a bonsai can be the focal point in a well balanced display. A bonsai with flower or fruit doesn’t need to have a massive character trunk to be effective. However, a great trunk will help the presentation.

To create a good flowering bonsai,

INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 15 2021NO. 1

but it is not an easy task. Nature is nature and difficult to control.

Pruning It is extremely important to know how much time is required for flowers to form after pruning, especially for display.

It is also crucial to know where the flowering will occur, in order to know where to prune. As mentioned earlier, some trees flower on the new shoots, while others will flower more to the inside of the branch. Other species require branches to grow longer for flowering. In these species, extra growth must be considered. The silhouette must be maintained after the new growth and flowers. The season and timing to prune is important because if the branch is pruned too close to flowering, blossoms might not form.

Fertilizer Understanding fertilizer is important as well as when to use it. Normally the best fertilizers for blooming are the ones that have more phosphorus

than nitrogen and potassium. The amount will be important, because too much fertilizer will kill the tree.

It’s important to know your species, your fertilizers and how they interact with each other. Organic fertilizers are good for blooming, even if the analysis is low. The organic fertilizers are normally a good source of nitrogen, but still have a good response for blooming. However, they might require more time than chemical fertilizers.

What I normally do is start with organic fertilizer and as the blooming time nears I start chemical fertilizers as a booster.

this for the preservation of its species.

Containers Selecting containers for bonsai when in blossom is important. In the past containers for flowering bonsai were only glazed. However times have changed and now unglazed pots are also used for flowering bonsai. But it is important that a good pot matches as best as possible with the blossoms.

Glazed containers are still the most common pots, especially for tropical flowering trees.

Container colors often match or contrast with the flowers or fruit.

Pink flowers can be matched with blue glazed or unglazed brown pots.

Yellow flowers are matched with violet, green, black, orange or white containers. Red blossoming bonsai are often matched with green, blue, black or cream pots.

Watering Water is important for blooming and for maintaining a longer flowering period. In many species, flowering is promoted by a specific amount of watering. It is important not to let water flow over the blossoms or they may wilt or become discolored and deformed. Many species normally bloom after a dry season. I believe that most trees in nature bloom do

A Special Technique We know that flower size on a healthy tree can’t be reduced. But I

Nia, Neea buxifolia, trained and displayed by Hector Paheco at the 2016 5th US National Bonsai Exhibition. This is an old collected specimen with a powerful and interesting tapering trunk.

Nia, Neea buxifolia, trained and displayed

by Michael Sullivan at the 2014 4th US National Bonsai Exhibition.

JOE NOGA PHOTOS

Nia fruit, plump red with dark green foliage.

16 INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 2021/NO. 1

have encountered that the long flower stalk (peduncle) can be shortened in some species. Sometimes the peduncle is so long that will affect the esthetic of the tree. You can use the following technique to help maintain the flower near to the shape of the design.

The way this technique works is to cut the peduncle off before the buds of the flower open. Then the tree will try to flower again but this time the peduncle will be shorter. In some species if the flower is starting to open, you can do it anyway and it will work the same. I have used this technique with Crape myrtle, Fukien tea and Ixora but I am uncertain if it will work with other species.

Timing Some species have beautiful flowers but they will not last long enough to be presented in an exhibition. It is important to learn how to take photographs when your bonsai are in flower. So, have your camera ready.

This is the only way you can really show its flowers. Some tropical species which have this issue include: Jamacian ebony, Clerodendrum, Tabebuia and Calliandra.

For difficult to blossom bonsai they might better be displayed with fruit for an exhibition. Some examples are Jaboticaba, Eugenia and Malpighia.

and lower shelves, or on the side.

The shohin bonsai display can have more than one flower in the same display, but be careful not to have them next to each other. They are never placed on the top level of the box stand. The lower areas of the display represent the base of a mountain where most flowering species are native.

After the exhibition, it is important to remove all the flowers and allow the tree to rest. Just remove all the flowers and or fruit and reduce the fertilizer. Do not wait until the flowers naturally wilt or drop as this can weaken branches.

Nia, Neea buxifolia Nia is native to Puerto Rico and is a perfect example of how flowers can affect a bonsai in an exhibition. The flowers of the Nia are very tiny and that is good, but the yellow color will not help. Sometimes from distances a Nia can appear unhealthy because of its yellowish foliage but what is really happening is that the flower is mixed with the leaves.

You have to get very close to the tree to see the flowers and not the leaves. I would recommend to show the Nia bonsai with no flowers, only leaves or leaves and fruit. The fruit is really beautiful for bonsai.

Nia fruit is red and small in size making it perfect for shohin bonsai.

The fruit is not always easy to obtain.

I have encountered different varieties of Nia that have various fruit shapes and leaf sizes and shapes.

Water jasmine, Wrightia religiosa The Water jasmine is a nice tree to train as bonsai with white flowers which produce an amazing fragrance. There are many varieties of Wrightia, but my favorite for bonsai is the common species, Wrightia religiosa. For shohin bonsai lovers there is a dwarf variety that is really good. In the tropics Water jasmine can flower several times a year but the best time for amazing flowering is May. This tree can withstand drastic pruning or defoliation before display and will blossom between 30 to 40 days, depending on the season.

Water jasmine, Wrightia religiosa, trained and displayed by Michael Knowlton at the 2010 2nd US National Bonsai Exhibition. This species is easy to propagate from cuttings or seedlings and this specimen is approximately 35 years old.

Displaying Flowering Bonsai A bonsai with flowers or fruit on display creates a focal point. If displaying a bonsai with flowers is better that the kusamono accompanying does not have a flower so it does not compete for attention.

When displaying multiple shohin bonsai in a box stand the flowering and fruiting species are normally positioned in the middle

Fragrant white Water jasmine flowers.

INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 17 2021/NO. 1

Dwarf Kumquat, Fortunella hindsii This species has a most attractive small orange fruit and shiny dark green leaves. The Dwarf kumquat is a wonderful species to exhibit with fruit. Normally fruit matures during December, January and February.

They can take two or three months to mature and are so small that only one seed is inside. Do not allow the tree to display numerous fruit for a long period of time, as it may reduce plant vigor. Dwarf kumquat can be easily propagated by seed.

Dwarf kumquat, Fortunella hindsii, trained in the slanting style and displayed in the 2020 94th Kokufu Bonsai Exhibition.

Dwarf kumquat, Fortunella hindsii, trained in the exposed root cascade style by Carlos Morales.

Dwarf kumquat, Fortunella hindsii, trained in the exposed root style and displayed in the 2020 Gafu Shohin Bonsai Exhibition.

Dwarf kumquat, Fortunella hindsii, trained as a shohin bonsai and displayed in the 2020 94th Kokufu Bonsai Exhibition.

WM. N. VALAVANIS PHOTOS

Dwarf kumquat fruit with dark green foliage.

18 INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 2021/NO. 1

About The Author CARLOS A. MORALES Carlos Morales is manager of JardĂ­n Selecto, one of the largest garden centers in Puerto Rico. He has been working with tropical bonsai for many years and has been teaching bonsai courses since 2007. He is president of Bonsai Shohin Of Puerto Rico and also works on @Bonsairadio, a bonsai podcast in Spanish, currently in its new season. Mr. Morales presents lecture/demonstrations as well as workshops around the country and in the United States.

He was featured at the 2019 2nd US National Shohin Exhibition in Kannapolis, North Carolina.

Dwarf kumquat, Fortunella hindsii, trained in the slanting style and displayed in the 2020 Gafu Shohin Bonsai Exhibition.

Dwarf kumquat, Fortunella hindsii, displayed in the 2019 93rd Kokufu Bonsai Exhibition.

Dwarf kumquat, Fortunella hindsii, trained in the informal upright style and displayed in the 2020 Gafu Shohin Bonsai Exhibition.

Dwarf kumquat, Fortunella hindsii, trained as a small bonsai and displayed in the 2019 93rd Kokufu Bonsai Exhibition.

The fruit of Dwarf kumquat is small.

Pre-bonsai in training growing in deep Japanese terra-cotta pots as well as plastic pots. These plants are well spaced on commercial plastic benches which allow for water drainage and aeration.

INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 19 2021/NO. 1

Training Dwarf Kumquat Shohin Bonsai

By Kyosuke Gun

The Dwarf kumquat, Fortunella hindsii, also named Hong Kong kumquat is ideally suited for smaller sizes and can be trained into a variety of different styles and shapes. It bears the smallest size Kumquat fruit which rarely exceeds 1/2 inch.

Before Shaping

After Pruning 6.5”

Yellow fruit remains on tree until May

Selected for slight trunk movement

Section to be wired, bent down to match the trunk and then shaped into branches Some branches have been created with movement

Top View Most of the branches originated in one area

Removed branches

Dealing With Problem Roots

5.5”

Removing soil reveals the roots were never worked and are a tangled mess Previous soil level burying the root problem

After Shaping

3 main thick heavy roots Trunk lowered using a guy wire

Thick and randomly oriented roots grouped together and made more interesting with wire

Editor’s Note: This article has been reprinted from the 2018/NO. 2 issue of International BONSAI. The article first appeared in the March 20 INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 2021/NO. 1

Top View Using wire, the branches can be separated into different directions

2016 issue of Bonsai Sekai (Bonsai World) magazine published in Japanese. The article has been translated and edited for our readers.

BOOK REVIEW

The Ultimate Bonsai Handbook

T he Ultimate Bonsai Handbook– The Complete Guide For Beginners

By Yukio Hirose Softcover 7.5” x 10”, 256 pages, heavy!

Over 1,000 photos & 70 types of bonsai Tuttle Publishing 2020 $25 The Ultimate Bonsai Handbook is the newest bonsai book published to date. Mr. Hirose is one of the top leaders in the Japanese shohin bonsai community and has a garden where he teaches, grows, sells and he also organizes exhibitions.

This book is great! Loads of high quality photos with step by step illustrated instructions covering the basics of bonsai and how to, create,

care for, train and display bonsai.

Over 70 different species are described with information on training, cultivating, varieties and maintenance.

Although the information and photos are appropriate for all sizes of bonsai, this book is really devoted to shohin bonsai and should have been promoted as such. For those who love and train shohin bonsai The Ultimate Bonsai Handbook is a valuable source for authoritative information as well as inspiration.

The main disappointment with this book is that all the plants are listed with their Japanese names which

makes it difficult for hobbyists to determine what species is discussed.

There is an “Alphabetical List of Plants” at the end of the book, but it too, is in Japanese. The “Terms Used in Bonsai” in English is excellent and quite comprehensive.

Although a bit frustrating to determine what species of tree is illustrated, most can figure out with the “Other Names” sentence in the beginning of each section. Generally the translation is good, but there are a few awkward sections. Taking everything into consideration this book is recommended if you enjoy the beauty, training and care of shohin bonsai.

William N. Valavanis

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INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 23 2021/NO. 1

Repotting A Trident Maple Bonsai

By Jonas Dupuich

H ere is a basic guideline for transplanting an established Trident maple, Acer buergerianum, bonsai.

The same techniques can be used for most bonsai.

How To Remove The Tree From The Pot The first step is to remove all wires that poke through the bottom of the pot. I usually begin with the tie-down wires and then remove the clips that hold the drainage screen in place.

Using a small sickle, I carve a narrow trough between the root ball and the sides of the pot. This is the most dangerous part of the process. While one hand holds the pot in place,the other works quickly with a sharp implement. Watch out for your fingers!

I’ve found that a smooth, scraping motion works better than vigorous jerking or saw-like motions. How much scraping you do depends on the tree and the pot. Since the idea is to

Fig. 1 Tie-downs cut.

Fig. 4 Separating the root ball from the sides of the pot with a sickle.

Fig. 2 Cutting the clips.

JONAS DUPUICH PHOTOS

Fig. 3 Wires removed – ready for the next step.

24 INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 2021/NO. 1

disturb the roots as little as possible at this point, it’s important to do no more scraping than necessary.

For square, rectangular and oval pots, work on the two short sides of the pot and one large side. Trees usually release from round pots after about half of the diameter has been cleared. In all cases, scrape to the very bottom of the pot. Because roots tend to circle at the bottom, stopping short of this can prevent the tree from coming out.

Once the soil has been cleared down to the bottom, it’s time to remove the tree from the pot. Keep the pot on the workspace while tipping the tree away from the pot by raising the end of the root ball that has been cleared with the sickle. Work with care to avoid crushing branches and flicking the pot to the floor.

Fig. 5 Soil cleared from the edges of the pot.

Fig. 6 Tilting the root ball away from the pot.

How To Clean The Pot

Fig. 7 Dirty and grimy pot.

Fig. 8 Scrubbing away soil residue.

The next step is to prepare the pot into which the bonsai will be planted.

This year I’m using the same pot for this Trident maple. I often change containers when I repot, but it’s OK to reuse the same container too.

It’s best to prepare the new

pot before working on the roots.

Preparing the pot involves scrubbing, covering the drainage holes with screen, and wiring the pot.

I like to use a natural-bristle brush, but plastic brushes work well too. What’s important is the extent to

which you clean.

I cannot overstate the importance of this next bit: do not be over zealous in your scrubbing! It’s easy to remove both grime and patina when scrubbing, though the goal is to remove the grime while preserving the patina.

How much to scrub? A good way to start is to scrub lightly. This will remove most of the crust or loose dirt that can cling to pots. Beyond that, proceed with care. Some white residue from hard water is acceptable, too much is not. Green colored build-up is rarely appropriate. If you ever have a question about cleaning a specific pot, don’t hesitate to take it to someone you trust to avoid removing patina that took years to develop.

How To Prepare The Pot Once the pot is relatively clean, it’s time to cover the drainage holes.

Here are the steps for preparing a “z-clip.” Measure a piece of wire about four times the diameter of the drainage hole. Bend the wire into a “z” shape with your hands and finish the bends with pliers. From there, bend down the ends so they just fit inside the drainage holes. A good fit will prevent the screen from moving around. This helps keep soil in and bugs out.

Fig. 9 Measuring wire for the clip.

Fig. 10 Starting a clip.

Fig. 11 Checking the size of the clip.

Fig. 12 A completed clip.

INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 25 2021/NO. 1

Fig. 14 View from above.

Fig. 13 Measuring the tie-down wire for anchoring the tree into the pot.

Fig. 15 View from below.

After the screen is in place, measure the tie-down wire. For rectangular and oval-shaped pots, get the length of the tie-down wire right by measuring two long sides and one short side of the pot as a guide. Differing shapes and drainage hole arrangements necessitate adjustments. Getting the

typically require more care. Holding the roots in place while they grow into their new environment minimizes the damage that can result from jostling a tree around and can keep tippy trees from falling over. It’s a sign that we really care about the well-being of our bonsai.

length right becomes easier with practice. Once the wires are in place, I bend them out of the way and set the pot aside until I’m ready to set the tree.

Why bother with wires at all? It’s a reflection of the difference between a nursery tree and bonsai. Bonsai

How To Work The Trident Maple Roots For Repotting

Fig. 16 Root ball – where the sickle passed.

Fig. 17 Root ball – the untouched side.

Fig. 18 Raking the base of the root ball.

Great bonsai work requires great tree health, and great tree health begins with the roots.

Cutting too many roots can weaken or kill a tree– not cutting enough can lead to root rot or dieback and prevent good surface roots from developing. When done well, repotting can invigorate bonsai and give them the strength to recover from the most intensive styling techniques.

Trident maple is best repotted in late winter or early spring. And while most deciduous trees are typically

repotted before they leaf out, Trident maples can be repotted as long as the new leaves are reddish in color.

Repotting this late can slow a tree down a bit, but if it’s in good health, it won’t skip a beat.

Root-work begins, in this case, with the bottom of the root ball.

After removing the tree from the pot, I can see that the roots are loose where the sickle passed, but nice and compact on the other side.

Tipping the tree onto the untouched side can protect the root ball while I work on the base.

I’m fairly picky about the tools I use when I repot. I’ve found that a rake is perfect for combing out the roots on the bottom of the root ball.

I work from the center and drag the rake outward while keeping it parallel with the base of the tree.

I try to keep the base as flat as possible when I work to avoid causing air pockets when I set the tree in the pot. Holding the rake at an angle or working for too long in a single area can quickly create pockets, and in some cases, this can weaken the entire root ball.

26 INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 2021/NO. 1

Fig. 21 Improper tweezer technique (angle too high).

Fig. 22 Better tweezer technique (appropriate angle).

Fig. 19 Working on small trees planted in good soil is fun work.

Fig. 20 Root work completed on the bottom of the root ball.

Fig. 23 Root work completed and ready for potting.

Cutting roots flush with the soil can make it hard for the roots to grow into new soil. Leaving a little root sticking out from the root ball when cutting can help the roots integrate into the new soil.

Once the base is done, set the tree down and work on the top and sides of the root ball. Bent nose tweezers

are great for this. I’m careful, however, not to hold the tweezers at too high of an angle. Holding tweezers at steep angles can snag roots, causing them to snap or tear. By holding tweezers at a lower angle, I can help the tips glide over roots without damaging them.

You may have noticed that the soil is darkest near the surface of the roots. That’s evidence of the organic fertilizer I use, cottonseed meal, in this case. To improve the drainage, I scrape away as much of it as possible.

When this is done, I cut the roots just past where they emerge from the root ball.

How To Secure The Tree Into The Container

Fig. 24 Pumice drainage layer.

Fig. 25 Mound of bonsai soil.

Fig. 26 Setting the tree.

Once the tree and pot are ready, it’s time to put them together. For starters, the pot gets a drainage layer of pumice on the bottom. If the pot were much thinner or the climate warmer I might skip this step, but I’ve found my Trident maples do well with a pumice drainage layer.

After spreading out the drainage layer, I add my deciduous bonsai

mix– mostly akadama with pumice and lava. I form a mound in the center of the pot when I pour in the mix to prevent air pockets from forming when I set the tree. If the base of the root ball is concave, this is important.

Next comes one of the most important parts of the whole processsetting the tree. Although it’s not a

very technical maneuver, it requires care to make sure the tree ends up in the right spot.

After nestling the tree into place, check the location of the tree, the height of the root ball, the tilt of the tree and the front. Make any adjustments, if necessary, before securing the tree into place with wire.

INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 27 2021/NO. 1

Fig. 27 Adding a “tail” of wire.

Fig. 28 Securing the tree.

Fig. 29 Proper plier technique: pull.

Fig. 30 Proper plier technique: then twist to tighten.

Fig. 31 Tree secured into the pot after tying the wire.

There are many ways to secure a bonsai in a pot. The goal is to prevent the tree from moving to avoid damaging new roots.

Before I attach the first two wires to each other, I add a “tail” – an extra piece of wire that will help me make my final connection as I work my way around the root ball.

I then pull the first wire to a location above the spot where the second wire comes through the drainage hole. I make a few twists by hand and continue around the tree until it’s

time to connect the final wire with the tail I attached to the first wire.

This final connection requires pliers.

A subtle but important trick to using pliers: first pull, then twist.

The idea is to pull the wires taught and then slightly release the tension

as you twist. Doing this helps avoid breaking the wire. When done well, using the pliers for the final connection tightens all of the other wires. It’s a fast and effective way to secure a tree.

Before adding more soil, I trim any extraneous wire.

Finishing Touches

Fig. 32 Pouring soil into the pot with a scoop.

Fig. 33 Working soil between the roots with chopsticks.

Fig. 34 Bumping the pot to settle the soil.

The hard part is over. The next step is to add more soil to the pot.

When working the new soil into the roots, chopsticks come in handy.

I usually jab lightly at the soil with one hand while holding the pot and soil in place with the other. Skipping this step can result in air pockets that make it tough for the roots to take hold.

It’s fun, at this stage, to wiggle the chopsticks about. Wiggling really works the soil into place and is especially effective at filling pockets between large roots or cavities beneath the trunk. Over-wiggling, however, is counter-productive. Unless there is a big gap to fill, it doesn’t take much.

Before getting a final level on the amount of soil in the pot, a careful

bump can settle things a bit. When doing this, I very carefully hold the tree and pot in place with one hand while bumping, just once or twice, with the other.

Careless bumping can upset the soil and require a do over. If the soil drops dramatically, it’s a sign that I didn’t use chopsticks enough to work the soil into place.

28 INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 2021/NO. 1

Fig. 35 Leveling the soil in the pot – improper brush-technique.

Fig. 36 Proper brush-technique – the brush is nearly parallel with the surface of the soil.

Fig. 37 Tamping the soil with a trowel.

A small brush can help get the soil to the proper level. Holding the brush at a high angle makes it hard to level the surface and makes it easy to remove too much. Holding it close to parallel to the surface of the soil pulls the largest soil particles out of the mix and makes for a nice level.

A trowel can make the surface neat and tidy. I’ve seen long trowels and short trowels, custom trowels and mass productions. I have two, but I rarely use them. I like patting

the surface of the soil with my hands instead. It works almost as well and is much faster.

As soon as this is done I go outside and water the tree. The rule about watering until the water runs clear is sound. The more dust particles you can wash from the soil, the better the soil will drain. It’s at this point that I gauge the effectiveness of the work. If the drainage is poor after repotting, I need to start over.

Fig. 38 Watering the bonsai.

Fig. 39 Trident maple after repotting into the same pot.

About The Author JONAS DUPUICH Jonas Dupuich is an award winning professional bonsai artist from Alameda, California. His writing, photography and publishing activities have provided the perfect background for his blog, one of the top bonsai blogs in the world. Mr. Dupuich shares new techniques that are introduced and illustrated by excellent photographs of beautiful bonsai from around the world.

Mr. Dupuich is the proprietor of Bonsai Tonight where he offers a wide range of bonsai soils, tools, and supplies online, as well as in California.

He tours the United States giving bonsai classes, lectures and workshops. His new book, The Little Book of Bonsai, provides guidance on bonsai care, and shaping. Check out his website and blog: bonsaitonight.com

Editor’s Note: This article has been

compiled from three excellent blog entries by Jonas Dupuich from Bonsai Tonight. These well illustrated and written blogs are published several times a week and are highly recommended. https://bonsaitonight.com INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 29 2021/NO. 1

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INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 31 2021/NO. 1

ABOUT THE COVER Crabapple From The Collection of William N. Valavanis, Rochester, New York

C rabapples are a popular flowering and fruiting species for bonsai training

August 1993 – The prefered front featuring a muscular trunk.

August 1993– This side can also be enjoyed with the hollow trunk.

FRANK GRILLO PHOTOS

in areas where they are able to enjoy a cool or frigid dormant season.

They are enjoyed for their lovely flowers and fruit which vary in color, size and shapes. Crabapples can be enjoyed primarily in three seasons, spring with flowers, autumn with fruit and in winter with their winter silhouette. Some Crabapples have fruit which persists through the winter and does not decay when cold weather arrives.

This Crabapple, Malus sp., a wild seedling was growing in an old nursery field across the street where I went to college on Long Island. The local bonsai society had permission to collect trees there. At that time I would take a buddy with me to do the digging. I would find the tree, drastically prune it and my friend would dig it. My friend was paid $5 for each stump he dug. This way many more specimens could be collected in a short time period.

Several Crabapples were collected

and this specimen was approximately ten feet tall. It was drastically pruned to about two feet in October 1969 when it was collected. Crabapples are a strong species and be successfully collected in autumn when others cannot. When I brought it home to Rochester all the field soil was removed and the stump was planted in a raised bed for a couple of years to develop a fibrous root system.

An abundance of adventitious new shoots grew and they were trained for the future branching. The stump was then planted into a wooden box where it could be easily trained and moved around. Finally, it was planted in a series of round containers to emphasize the long side branch.

The initial area of drastic pruning began to decay many years ago and the old soft wood was carved away.

In 1993 the back section showed an evidence of decay. This area now adds a special dimension and mystique to the bonsai design since the “old Apple tree” now has a hollowed out

32 INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 2021/NO. 1

trunk. When watering this bonsai, special care must be given not to allow water to sit in the hollowed out trunk.

This bonsai, like many other masterpieces has two presentable fronts which can be enjoyed. In order to use both sides for a viewing, the trunk was planted vertical, rather than leaning forward.

A long side branch was developed to be the focal point of this bonsai.

This directional branch is important for my design of the slanting style.

Unfortunately in 2005 a visitor in my garden bumped into the tree and broke the long side branch. Two years were necessary to allow a couple of shoots to grow to replace the important branch.

In 2006 this bonsai was the logo for the Blossoming Bonsai Symposium sponsored by International BONSAI. This Crabapple was also selected to be the logo for the 2020 7th US National Bonsai Exhibition planned to take place in September 2020. A good photo was necessary for the advertising so I took this large bonsai to the 2018 Winter Silhouette Expo in Kannapolis, North Carolina. It was quite large and heavy so Tyler Sherrod and Matt Reel took the tree out of the trailer and also returned it at the end of the expo. Joe Noga professionally photographed the tree. Unfortunately, two weeks prior to the expo, while I was in Japan, mice came and ate most of the fruit.

The tree was still outside, not under winter protection where I have electronic rodent repellers. The tree was photographed with not too many fruit and was used as the official logo for printed material.

In 2019 all the flowers were carefully removed leaving the small flowering and fruiting spurs so fruit

would not develop in autumn since heavy fruiting was desired for the September 2020 exhibition. Well, this technique worked and we enjoyed an abundance of small, fragrant white flowers in May. I was able to photograph the tree and it is now featured on the cover of this issue.

Autumn arrived with a huge amount of fruit which looked lovely.

It looked wonderful and became a focal point in my garden and would look great in a show. Unfortunately, the Exhibition was postponed because of the Covid-19 pandemic to September 2021. I was able to capture the beauty of the fruiting bonsai.

I doubt this bonsai will have a lot of fruit for next year’s Exhibition so the official logo for the 2021 7th US National Bonsai Exhibition was changed to the current photo of the Crabapple in full flower as featured on this cover. Everyone is invited to enjoy the beauty of this bonsai at the 2021 7th US National Bonsai Exhibition on September 11-12, 2021 in Rochester, New York.

April 2007– Two years were required to regrow the long lowest branch

October 2005– A bounty of fruit which were yellow rather than orange.

December 2018– Mice ate the fruit but did not get these.

JOE NOGA

William N. Valavanis

April 2005– A visitor broke the lowest focal point branch.

Cover photo by Wm. N. Valavanis

November 2020– Heavy fruit developed by not allowing the tree to flower in 2019.

April 2002– After an ice storm.

WM. N. VALAVANIS PHOTOS

May 2020– A bounty of blossoms.

INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 33 2021/NO. 1

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22TH Hwa Fong National Bonsai Exhibition Sponsor: National Bonsai Association

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November 4-26, 2017 Overall view of the main exhibition area.

Alcove display featuring large size bonsai.

Sectional view of the exhibition.

Taiwan five-needle pine, Pinus massoniana, trained from a collected tree.

WM. N. VALAVANIS PHOTOS

Dwarf hibiscus, Hibiscus tiliaceus, trained in the cascade style.

36 INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 2021/NO. 1

Taiwan box bark detail.

Taiwan box, Buxus harlandii, featuring fissured bark with excellent branching.

Sargent juniper, Juniperus chinensis var. Sargentii ‘Shimpaku,’ featuring dead wood and lush dark green foliage.

Twin trunk Sargent juniper, Juniperus chinensis var. Sargentii ‘Shimpaku.’

Japanese black pine, Pinus thunbergii, trained from an old tree.

INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 37 2021/NO. 1

This small Pemphis, Pemphis acidula, was part of a larger display of shohin bonsai.

Chinese hackberry, Celtis sinensis, featuring fine twig ramification after the bonsai was defoliatied for display.

38 INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 2021/NO. 1

Premna, Premna obtusifolia, developed from a collected tree.

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