2021/NO. 4 July-August
Volume 43 Issue 168
THROUGH THE PINE NEEDLES T hank you all for subscribing to my new FREE bimonthly International
BONSAI OnLine! I hope you have enjoyed the first three digital editions and have shared the link with your friends and bonsai organizations. This issue contains articles on flowering bonsai featuring bonsai for summer appreciation. In most of the temperate areas of the northern hemisphere, the months of July and August are the hottest. Even here in Rochester, New York we sometimes reach 90oF. Although bonsai hobbyists are busy watering their trees, there are not too many tasks to perform. This is the time to enjoy the beauty of your bonsai while trying to cool off. Water, whether it be a pond, stream, lake, river, ocean, suiseki in water basin and water container presents the perfect time to refresh yourself as you enjoy (and water) your bonsai. Weeping willows naturally grow along riverbanks and other bodies of water because they enjoy a large amount of water. Their elegant, slender, long branches, slightly moving in the wind and provide a bit of respite from the hot weather. Since most people don’t live near water, the large, and often small size containers for watering are often placed in the garden with water plants. Many bonsai gardens have large containers full of water for spot watering bonsai with a watering can. Water lilies and Lotus are also cultivated in the container to add splash of color in a mostly green atmosphere. To bring the feeling of coolness closer to indoors, Dwarf and Micro lotus
are often displayed with bonsai. And to refine the display the bonsai may be removed so the focal point are the water plants. Because of the Covid-19 pandemic, bonsai gatherings have provided bonsai instruction to clubs with Zoom presentations. Hands on bonsai workshops and classes were greatly limited. And, when available, many decided to avoid these opportunities to limit their exposure. I look forward to a busy teaching season in spring when students will bring pot bound trees for repotting. The very successful 7th US National Bonsai Exhibition did take place, where bonsai people enjoyed visiting friends and studying masterpiece bonsai. Each tree has a professional studio photo which will be used in the forthcoming Commemorative Album.
Personally, 2021 has been quite a challenge for my health. Fortunately, my wife Diane and my Monday Senior Crew stepped up and continued to water and care for the trees. Although exhausting for me, we were able to safely pull off the exhibition with dedicated friends. Unfortunately, I was unable to work on the magazine and even water. The last time I personally watered my bonsai was in early May. A complete report on the 7th US National Bonsai Exhibition with photos will be in the next issue of International BONSAI OnLine. Let’s all hope for a speedy Covid-19 recovery so we can safely return to our bonsai hobby
INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 3 2021/NO. 4
FEATURES 9 Beginning Bonsai Course- Pussy Willow By Kyosuke Gun TM Volume 43 Number 4 Issue Number 168
2021/NO. 4 July - August Publisher & Editor William N. Valavanis Contributing Editor Julian R. Adams
12 Weeping Willow Bonsai Care & Styling
By Hideo Kato, Craig W. Risser
18 Cultivating Water Plants For Bonsai Accessories
By Toshi Tanaka, Craig W. Risser
26 Masahiko Kimura’s Fun Bonsai Classroom Lesson 15 A Completely New Way Of Working Japanese Black Pine By Bonsai World Magazine, Peter Warren, Satomi Uchida
Contributors Kyosuke Gun Masahiko Kimura Kunio Kobayashi Makiko Kobayashi John Romano Satomi Uchida Peter Warren John Wiessinger
34 A little Magic With Maple Bonsai By John Romano
Staff Harvey B. Carapella, Art Director Joseph L. Noga, Image Director Alan Adair, Editorial Assistant Marc Arpag, Editorial Assistant
DEPARTMENTS 3 Through The Pine Needles
Published periodically (6 times a year) by THE INTERNATIONAL BONSAI ARBORETUM for the educational promotion and expansion of the artistic and horticultural expression of classical bonsai art on an international scale for English language bonsai fanciers. International BONSAI— ISSN: 0198-9561 The opinions expressed in International BONSAI OnLine are those of the authors and do not necessarily represent those of the International Bonsai Arboretum. Manuscripts, art work and photos submitted for possible publication will be returned if accompanied by self addressed, stamped envelopes. Address all correspondence regarding subscriptions, advertising and editorial matter to: THE INTERNATIONAL BONSAI ARBORETUM William N. Valavanis, Publisher & Editor 1070 Martin Road West Henrietta, NY 14586 Telephone (585) 334-2595
Fax (585) 334-6239
E-mail: WNV@internationalbonsai.com WWW.internationalbonsai.com Blog: valavanisbonsaiblog.com WWW.internationalbonsaionline.com Designed by Harvey B. Carapella Color Separations by Joseph L. Noga
© Copyright 2021 by The International Bonsai Arboretum, World rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the written permission of the publisher.
4 INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 2021/NO. 4
5 Gallery: International BONSAI Masterpieces 33 About The Cover– Golden Weeping Willow 36 International BONSAI Digest – 2021 Part 2 Kokufu Bonsai Exhibition
G a
l
l
e r y
SHUNKA-EN BONSAI MUSEUM PHOTOS
INTERNATIONAL BONSAI MASTERPIECES
Twisted trunk pomegranate, Punicia granatum ‘Nejikan,’ trained in the informal upright style from a cutting. The massive coiled trunk was trained in the ground and is nearly 100 years old. During the summer Pomegranates produce vivid orange flowers, and, if lucky, medium size fruit. This masterpiece bonsai has a
solid lower trunk and surface root system. It is amazing how the trunk swirls around and around, almost snake like. The antique Chinese Container harmonizes with the green foliage, orange flowers and reddish fruit. From Kunio Kobayashi’s Shunka-en Bonsai Museum in Tokyo, Japan.
INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 5 2021/NO. 4
ade ood
Potentilla, Potentilla fruitiosa, is also named shrubby cinquefolia is a common inexpensive landscape plant in the United States. It is indeed rare to see a large, single trunk specimen in Japan. This masterpiece bonsai has spent decades confined to a container and has been well trained by Kunio Kobayashi. Potentilla blossom
6 INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 2021/NO. 4
in summer until autumn. They require an abundance of water to maintain the numerous flowers and small foliage. There are over 50 different cultivars which vary in flower color and growth habit. They can also be appreciated in winter for the exfoliating bark. From Kunio Kobayashi’s Shunka-en Bonsai Museum in Tokyo,Japan.
Crape myrtle, Lagerstroemia indica, colorful dainty flowers blossom for the three summer months, thus the common name ”Tree which flowers for 100 days.” Although this bonsai does not look great age, it does represent a very elegant and quiet feeling. It is planted into a shallow unglazed container which is perfect for
the literati style. The beautiful tall undulating trunk is visually well balanced with the lower trunk and surface root system. There are dozens of cultivars of Crape myrtle varying in color, flower, growth habitat and bark textures. From Kunio Kobayashi’s Shunka-en Bonsai Museum in Tokyo, Japan.
INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 7 2021/NO. 4
Kei Do Tokonoma Display Planting: Dwarf Lotus, Nelumbo nicifera Chawan Basu.’
Accessory: Bamboo root carving of a crab on a round laquered stand.
Container: Yellow glazed, round with rim design, Japanese Seto-ware. Display Table: Flat rectangular, rosewood.
8 INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 2021/NO. 4
Comments: The atmospher of this quiet display is suittale for summer enjoyment Display BY Uhaku Sudo
Beginning Today–
Small Bonsai Course Lesson 1: Pussy Willow Japanese Edition: Kyosuke Gun, Text & Illustrations Mayutaro, Coloring English Edition: Peter Warren & Satomi Uchida, Translators Wm. N. Valavanis, Editor
Editor’s Note: This article has been reprinted with permission of Hidenori Ebina, Publisher of Seibundo-Shinko Sha Publishing Company. The article first appeared in the August 2008 issue of Bonsai Sekai (Bonsai World) magazine published in Japanese. The article has been translated and edited for our readers.
INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 9 2021/NO. 4
Pussy Willow Salix gracilistyla
Height from base before shaping 13"
The trunk is quite monotonous and there are two options to make it more interesting: air layer or split the trunk to bend
Weak branches will be pruned
Wind plastic tape around the trunk after splitting
Trunk splitter
Air layer from this location would also be good
Splitting Technique Cut through 2/3 of the trunk
Area to split trunk with trunk slitter Use 3mm aluminum wire to shape trunk
Ye arly Sche dule For Growing And Training Sm all Pussy Willow Bonsai Jan. Feb. March April May Winter Winter Flowers Prune Transplant Bonsai appreciation appreciation Work Winter Winter Remove Fertilize Fertilize Care protection protection- from spray protection
Watering
Weekly
Every Every Every 1-2 Daily 4-5 Days 2-3 Days 2-3 Days
10 INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 2021/NO. 10
June
July
August
Sept.
Oct.
Trim-
Nov.
WireWater Water Water take air layer cuttings
Leaves
Spray
Spray
Daily
Put in
shadefertilize
Shadefertilize
Remove Fertilizefrom shade
drop
spray
Dec. Tie branches together Winter protection
fertilize
2-3 Daily 3-4 Daily 2-3 Daily 1-2 Daily
Daily
Weekly
After bending by hand use a guy wire for further shaping
Keep wire and tape on trunk for at least one year to ensure trunk remains in place
Styling Trunk & Branches Branches are soft and flexible so they can be easily styled with wire
After wiring the branches should sag down immediately from the base
Height from base after shaping 6"
Weeping branches present an elegant feeling of the wind blowing
INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 11 2021/NO. 4
The Cool Refreshing
WEEPING WILLOW Bonsai Care & Styling
By Hideo Kato Translated By Craig W. Risser
T here is probably little time or space for feelings like this in today’s hectic
world. Nonetheless, the image of the Weeping willow bending with the river breeze is something that lives in the hearts of people as an image of summer. A Willow branch with a swallow perched on it drooping over the water is an image often seen in advertisements trying to promote some product that coolly refreshes one from the heat of summer. That is because there is an association between “Willows” and “coolness” deeply rooted in the consciousness of the Japanese people for sumertime appreciation. There are many species of willow and when you simply say “Willow” it usually refers to Weeping willow, Salix babylonica. In the world of bonsai as well, Willow bonsai generally denotes bonsai that have been developed with Weeping willow. The cultivar ‘Rokkakudo’ is representative of the Weeping willow used for training bonsai. I raise many types of Weeping willows as well as the ‘Rokkakudo’ Weeping willow and dwarf varieties. In this article I would like to discuss the care and styling of the weeping willow. Hopefully, you will want to train a Willow as a bonsai evoking coolness. 12 INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 2021/NO. 4
The Progress Of Willow Bonsai In the old days there were some pretty good Weeping willow bonsai. That is probably because bonsai were different in those days. There was a certain luxury in interpreting taste and refinement and Weeping willow was a popular floral pattern of the season. A Weeping willow would grace a water basin with a miniature grass planted at the base and this would be a way of enjoying summer. Nowadays, when we think of summer we tend to think of the bother of watering and fertilizing and the summer doldrums in bonsai display, since is not a popular display period. However, when we have come this far with bonsai, we in the world of bonsai need to be able to relax enough to appreciate the pleasures of the season. In addition, bonsai is now not just something Japanese but has become international. In this sense, Willow are the most suitable species for expressing the coolness desired in the summer. The cultivar ‘Rokkakudo’ with its dwarf characteristics is suitable for both medium size and miniature bonsai. The chief Weeping willow used for bonsai training is the Rokkakudo willow, Salix babylonica ‘Rokkakudo’. While the branches of common Weeping willow droop, if the
umbrella canopy of the branches hang down too much it is not good. Rokkakudo Weeping willow is the best for producing height while giving character to the pendulous branches. I have a variety of this Weeping willow that has dwarf characteristics. The leaves are smaller than the usual variety and the small branches have a strong reddish cast. It is like a dwarf or “yatsubusa” cultivar. It is attractive even when grown small. There are other Willow varieties that can be used for either medium or large size bonsai as well. We have had a specimen tree that has these dwarf characteristics since I was a child. I remember my father, Tomekichi Kato, saying “Take good care of this one.” I do not know the exact origin of this specimen but I think it is a natural sport from ‘Rakkakudo’ Weeping willow. Since it was a sport that was good for use as bonsai, my father who discovered it took good care of it as a specimen. There may be some others that exist that are similar to it but I have not seen them. I have not taken any great pains to care for this Weeping willow with dwarf characteristics and have just somehow kept it going and fortunately managed to plant it in the garden. If I had kept it in a container it probably
would not have survived. Weeping willows like water and fertilizer and what is most difficult for them is to dry out during the summer. Although I planted it in the ground, it did not thicken like a normal tree would. Although the leaves are small, the bark is the same as on the common Weeping willow and does not thicken and become scaly. Those that have bark that thickens and becomes scaly
will sometimes die suddenly and are not long lived. The variety with dwarf characteristics does not have that problem and it is easy to grow. From Cuttings to Planting Into Containers All Willows are easy to propagate and the Weeping willow and its dwarf variety are not exceptions. Weeping willow may be propagated
by cutting and doing so is very simple. It is commonly known that branches placed in a container of water will form roots after some time passes. Of course you may use a cutting flat too, but if you do you must be especially careful to ensure that the rooting mix never dries out. That is because Weeping willows required more moisture than other species.
WILLI EVENPOLE
Weeping willow, Salix sp. grown and trained in Europe and displayed at the Noelanders Cup Show. Willow bonsai are also appreciated in winter with the long hanging branches.
INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 13 2021/NO. 4
In this respect placing the cutting in a container of water will eliminate the need to be concerned about drying out. Whether you try ten or 20, or whatever number, you should have a 100% success rate. The best time to root Willow cuttings is June, at the beginning of the rainy season in early summer. However, if you start earlier or later than this the cuttings will still root. Use second or third year growth for cuttings. Normally young branches are used for cuttings, but with Weeping willow older branches will root more quickly. Third year growth can be quite large and this provides a shortcut to developing a tree in a shorter period of time. You do not need to worry too much about the length of cuttings as comparatively long sections may be rooted. But rather than using a straight section, look for one that has some curves which will be useful in future styling of the tree. One of the basics for taking cuttings is to cut off one-half to twothirds of large leaves before planting. When rooting in a container of water remove one-third of the leaves if they plant is growing normally and onehalf of the foliage if they are large because of recent fertilizing. You do not need to cut off leaves of the variety with dwarf characteristics
since the leaves are small to begin with.
wise. Do not fertilize the planting for about a month after transplanting to a container. Give it fertilizer for the first time after observing and determining that the new shoots are growing vigorously.
Transplanting To A Container Roots will develop in a week or two. When propagating in a container of water, you will be able to see the root development. Transplant the cutting into a container when white roots appear (which look like vermicelli). Use a deep earthenware container for a training pot. One reason that you want a deep pot is that the tree needs lots of water. The other reason is that you need a container with height since the branches will hang down. The plan will begin to grow vigorously after potting. However, for the initial stages, cover the surface of the container and the base of the trunk with long-fibered sphagnum moss and the plant will thrive as a result of this extra consideration. The most important point during the first year after transplanting to a container is to allow the Weeping willow to develop strength and grow vigorously. To give the tree strength the branches should be allowed to grow without interruption and this will delay styling of the tree. Nonetheless, first allowing the tree to develop strength and then in the following year styling it carefully will complete the tree so that it can be enjoyed more rapidly than other-
Giving The Trunk Some Curves By Wiring Before fertilizing, give the trunk some curves by wiring. Weeping willows do not look good as formal uprights and exposed root and stump style are also not suitable. A Weeping willow normally has some curves in the trunks with its branches hanging pendulously. Give it some gentle curves, not abrupt or contorted shapes. The following is something that applies to the training of all trees, that is that training, specifically giving the trunk some curves, should be done as early as possible. If this is done the tree will be better in the future; that is probably because of the adaptability of the trees. Such operations cannot normally be done so early on other species, but with Weeping willow there is no problem. In a month or month and a half, the trunk form will become permanent and the wire can be removed.
NATURE & BONSAI PHOTOS
Rokakudo Weeping willow, Salix babylonica ‘Rokakudo, trained in the slanting style on a rock. Displayed with a glazed light colored water basin it provides both moisture to the bonsai and a suggestion of water to the viewer.
14 INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 2021/NO. 4
Line Flow – The Essence of Shaping Weeping Willow Line is what is unique to Weeping willow. Rather than strength, it is the appeal of the flow of fine lines that we notice. Keep this “essence of Willow” in mind when shaping them. When there are too many branches and they are fouled a Weepinng willow will not look right. When there are too few branches a Weepinng willow will look like a comb with missing teeth. The proper balance can be found in harmonizing the thickness of the trunk, the height of the tree and the branches. This is true not only of Weepinng willows but of bonsai in general. It is important to harmonize the number of branches and the placement of them with the present height of the tree. This is a matter of training the eye and is a matter of experience and sense. It is not a matter of a certain number of branches for every inch of height. For example, if there are too many branches for the height of the tree the crown will tend to stand out too much and will seem like a heavy cap on the tree. It will not have good
line but will look like a clump or cluster. Another important bonsai point is how far to go in removing what is not necessary. Branches are not left like wild plants growing in nature. One of the principles of bonsai is to remove what is not necessary. I think it is necessary in bonsai to know how to utilize the gaps between branches properly and how to bring out the individuality of each branch. You will probably think that this is something difficult but eliminating what is not necessary is most important for maintaining the health of a bonsai. If there are too many branches the inner recesses of the tree will be crowded and the branches will not be exposed to sunlight evenly. Insect infestations are more likely to occur. Remove Unnecessary Buds and Branches There are two ways to deal with unnecessary branches. One is to quickly remove them and this is good for the tree. When this is done, branches you need will grow at the base of the branch. Buds will form and also grow on the trunk. These should be removed as soon as they are noticed. There are also buds that form but that do not break or grow into shoots. These are just a bother, detract from the appearance of the bonsai and should also be removed. The other way to remove buds and branches is when you want the tree to develop vigor and want the unnecessary branch to grow to enhance the shape of the tree. When you do this you remove the branch after your goal has been achieved. Particularly when you are first determining the branching for a tree you need to allow branches to extend more than normally in order to allow the tree to develop strength. When you allow them to grow without restriction the branches and trunk will develop vigor and will mature into a desired shape to some degree. When you make certain of that and the tree is growing vigorously, remove the branch or cut back the new shoots that grew.
down, the space between the branches and their directions must all be adjusted. If the branches hang down in a way that is suitable to the curve in the trunk then the tree will have overall balance. Nowadays aluminum wire which is easy to work with is available so use that for shaping. After the tree is planted in a container and new shoots elongate, apply the wire. The new shoots are slender and still soft and there will be no problem if the branch is bent before it matures. Though the wire will cut into the bark quickly (in less than a month) the shape will also harden quickly. Remove the wire immediately before it is about to cut into the bark. If there is a branch which destroys the balance of one or two branches rewire that branch after first removing the other wire. You may rewire in June and July. Be sure not to allow wire cuts to form since scars heal slowly on Weepinng willow. Watering Willow Bonsai The most important thing in caring for Weepinng willow is to not allow
them to dry out. Willows really like water. You must be especially vigilant when the pendulous branches begin to grow and the tree becomes active. You may prevent Weeping willows from drying out in the summer by placing the containers in a vessel that contains water (like a water basin) that will allow the tree to take up water from the bottom of the container which is immersed in the water. Though you do not need to worry that much about it in the winter they still should not be allowed to dry out. Fertilizer If sufficient fertilizer is given to a Willow along with water it will grow vigorously. The roots will literally come to the fertilizer and come up under the fertilizer ball just like fish being fed. Weeping willows have such an appetite for fertilizer. After the tree has been transplanted and you can tell that the tree has exhausted all the fertilizer that it was given in the first application, fertilize twice a month until summer. You may fertilize during the summer rainy season too. If you do this with other trees the roots will rot but it is okay
Rokakudo Weeping willow, Salix babylonica ‘Rokakudo, trained with three trunks and shown on a tall display table so the long delicate branches can be enjoyed.
Shaping With Wire Although the ‘Rokkakudo’ Weeping willow is a cultivar of Weeping willow, the angle that the branches hang INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 15 2021/NO. 4
with Weepinng willow because the roots are strong. After summer has passed (after August) the branches will no longer grow and the tree will slow down so fertilize once a month. Growing Location Although the most important things to keep in mind for Weeping willows are water and fertilizer, the growing location is also important. Often a tree that likes water will be found growing naturally in a place where there is shade for half of the day so when Weeping willow are grown as bonsai one would assume that they should be placed in a location where they also have shade for half the day. However Weeping willows grow well in sunny locations and may be left out on tables all summer long. In areas of mild winters, Weeping willows may also be left out during the winter but you will to protect them from the drying winds because they cannot take drying out. The variety with dwarf characteristics which has finer foliage and branch tips than the normal variety should be protected from the frost. It is said that trees with fine branch tips (Japanese gray-bark elm as well) “catch cold.” The fine branch tips do not develop and are damaged in winter. These trees should be placed in a cold frame. There is no need to heat them however.
Pests And Diseases Weeping willow become infested with ladybugs and aphids. Preventative spraying is common nowadays and Willows should also be sprayed in this way. Spray with Malathion the first time after the leaves have come out and spray twice a month from June through August. Transplanting Willow Bonsai The Weeping willow is a tree which grows vigorously and should be transplanted each year. The best time to transplant is around the time of the Vernal Equinox just prior to the appearance of new growth. If you cannot do it then you may also transplant at the beginning of the rainy season. The roots will completely fill a container in one year. They should be carefully untangled and at least one-third should be removed. Old branches should be trimmed back to two or three buds at the time of transplanting. When the new shoots have grown about seven inches after cutting back, unnecessary branches should be removed as explained before, and styling with wire should be done. Three years after propagating by cutting, Weeping willows will have a general shape and may be transplanted into a display container. The dwarf cultivars may require several more years to reach the desired trunk
diameter. Weeping willow bonsai are a variety with the added convenience of being quick to develop.
Editor’s Note: This article has been reprinted with the permission of Akira Shimizu, Editor of Nature And Bonsai (Shizen To Bonsai) magazine. It first appearred in the July 1980 issue in Japanese and in the1997/NO 2 issue. The author, Hideo Kato was the proprietor of Yagumo Mansei-en Bonsai Garden in Omiya Bonsai Vilage. Japan. He was a prolific writer and authored many artilcles on Trident maple and Horneam bonsai in past issues.
Rokakudo Weeping willow, Salix babylonica ‘Rokakudo, in the Montreal Botanic Bonsai Collection.
Rokakudo Weeping willow, Salix babylonica ‘Rokakudo, displayed with a grass planting of Hakonechloa and a viewing stone. This display is excellent for sumer enjomyent.
16 INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 2021/NO. 4
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B e
O
R
C a
W b
Cultivating Water Plants For Bonsai Accessories By Toshi Tanaka Translated By Craig W. Risser
B onsai fanciers often have containers of water in the garden for decorative
purpose as well as for watering individual specimens. Planting water plants in containers provides a colorful and cool feeling during the summer. Bonsai displays in summer often include a small container filled with water and perhaps a waterlily or dwarf lotus. Water Lily Waterlily, Nymphae sp. are perennial water plants that grow in ponds and swamps. There are numerous hybrid water waterlily of various colors and fragrances, winter hardiness and time of blossoming. Waterlily with small white flowers about two inches in diameter floating on the surface of water between small delicate leaves somehow evoke a
18 INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 2021/NO. 4
feeling of summer to viewers. There are several dwarf cultivars suitable for small containers or tub gardens. Miniature or Pygmy waterlily ’Helvoa’, also named ‘Yellow Pygmy’ is one of the finest cultivar for small containers. The yellow flowers are approximately one to two inches in diameter with mottled leaves. ‘Sioux’ is another good cultivar with unusual flowers opening pale yellow and turning deep orange when finished flowering. Although this cultivar has larger flowers than ‘Helvoa,’ it freely blossoms until late autumn. Obtaining Plants Waterlilies are primarily propagated by dividing rhizomes and are available in garden centers or specialized mail order nurseries. The bright red
and pink flowering types are not preferred by enthusiast in Japan, who preferred quiet colored blossoms such as white or yellow Waterlily stems that have grown closely together may be divided in spring when transplanting. Planting Plant the waterlily in spring as the new leaves appear. Use a small pot, about four to six inches in diameter, without drainage holes. They can also be planted directly in the bottom of water holding containers. They prefer a heavy garden soil containing some clay, but no peat moss. Fill the pot with some soil, place the water lily rhizome upright, and completely fill the pot with soil up to growth buds or small foliage. The length of the leaf stems will vary with the depth of the water so the leaves will appear on the water surface. Place a small layer of sand or small gravel on the soil surface to keep the water clean.
If possible, place the pot in the container of water about one to one and a half inches under the water surface. If the water is very deep, small leaves will still appear on the water surface, however the water temperature will not warm up well and flower production will suffer. If you to display the waterlily in a deep water containers, place bricks or empty pots under the pot to raise the level of the plant. Maintenance Mix some granular fertilizer into the soil mix in spring and approximately once a moth until the flowers have finished in autumn for best flower production. Keep the water containers in a good sunny location, the more sun the better. Winter hardy waterlilies can withstand light freezes in winter. In areas of severe winter weather, hardy waterlilies can be brought into a garage or an unheated greenhouse. Waterlilies are not subject to many diseases or pests, but sometimes become infested with aphids unless sprayed. Be careful when spraying if fish are in the same water container. It is a good idea to have fish in the water because they will eat mosquito larva. However do not spray the plant while it is in water if you find aphids. It is easier to get rid of the aphids by
putting the plant in another container when spraying. Return the plant to the original container after it has been thoroughly cleaned of all pests, spraying with clean water and immersing in another container to get rid of the pesticide residue and dead pests. Small Lotus The lotus, Nelumbo nuicifera, which are grown to produce lotus roots which are eaten have rather large
leaves. However, there are several, dwarf, miniature, micro or bowl lotus varieties which are suitable for small containers and tub gardens. Recently very small, beautiful bowl lotus are being imported from China. Chawan Basu The cultivar ‘Chawan Basu’, (also called “tea bowl lotus”) is one of the finest and most popular among bonsai hobbyists. This dwarf lotus can be raised in a small container and
Planting: Dwarf Lotus, Nelumbo nuicfrera ‘Chawan Basu.’ Container: Unglazed brown, round Nanban, antique Chinese. Display Table: Flat long rectangular rosewood. This Dwarf Lotus is displayed on a blue woolen cloth in front of a four panel folding screen. The photogapher has captured the quiet beauty of a special moment in time: an opening flower bud and a mature blossom, just preparing to drop a sinle petal. Keido displays often present the atmosphere of scenery, but here we can enjoy the begining and ending of flowers duting the hot summer, Perhaps a cool feeling will prevail to the visitors. Displayed by Uhaku Sudo.
Pre-bonsai in training growing in deep Japanese terra-cotta pots as well as plastic pots. These plants are well spaced on commercial plastic benches which allow for water drainage and aeration.
INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 19 2021/NO. 4
the stems are rather short at 16 inches and leaves at full maturity are only about four inches in diameter. ‘Chawan Basu’ is a free flowering dwarf lotus with white flowers edged with light pink Momo Botan The cultivar ‘Momo Botan’ grows a bit larger than ‘Chawan Basu’ with foliage about 12 to 18 inches in diameter. The foliage will, reduce in size, when container grown. ‘Momo Botan has double carmine red flowers with a bright yellow center. Obtaining Plants Dwarf lotus cannot be found growing naturally, so they must be purchased from a garden center or mail order specialist. The long rhizome of dwarf lotus is very fragile, so it is best to purchase potted specimens. Dwarf lotus a propagated by dividing the fragile rhizomes in spring before they begin to grow. They do not spread vigorously. With luck, one bud will produce three new flower buds.
Planting Plant the dwarf lotus in mid-April in containers eight to ten inches in diameter without drainage holes. Always plant dwarf lotus with two internodes. If there is only one, it will rot. A heavy garden soil with clay is best for dwarf lotus. Be sure the soil mix does not include peat moss or herbicides. Lay the rhizome horizontally on the soil surface and put the thickest part with two inches of soil. Be sure the tip is pointed up, perhaps one half inch above the soil level. It can also just be laid on the soil surface and as the rhizome roots it will become buried naturally. Place a small layer of sand or small gravel on the soil surface to keep the water clean. If the growing tip is broken, it should be kept out of the water. If this is not done the water will cause it to rot. Rub wood ash into the broken or cut portion. Maintenance Place the pot with the dwarf lotus in
a water container with about one half inch of water above the growing tip. Replenish the water daily so this level is maintained. Pond scum will always grow in the water. This should be removed as soon as it appears with chopsticks or tweezers. It is not necessary to fertilize dwarf lotus after potting, but after mature leaves appear you should begin fertilizing. Dwarf lotus should receive more fertilizer than other water plants; at least once a month. The water container should be kept in a location with good sun exposure. In winter protect the dwarf lotus using the technique used for hardy waterlilies.
Editor’s Note: This article has been reprinted with the permission of Akira Shimizu, Editor of Nature and Bonsai (Shizen To Bonsai) magazine. It first appearred in the August 1980 issue in Japanese and in the1996/NO 2 issue.
A summer display of a flowering Lavendar star flower, Grewia occidentis, displayed with a Micro lotus, Nelumbo nucifera ‘Luohan.’ The hanging scroll depicts a summer rainbow.
20 INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 2021/NO. 4
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Masahiko Kimura's Fun Bonsai Classroom Lesson 15:
Japanese Edition: Bonsai World Magazine English Edition: Peter Warren & Satomi Uchida, Translators
Fpartorofmedium sized bonsai, the early July is the ideal time to do this one time candle cutting technique. Please try it on the trees in your garden. With this medium size Japanese black pine, Pinus thunbergii, bonsai as an example we will look at cut-
Editor’s Note: This article has been reprinted with permission of S Press Media Publishing Company. The article first appeared in the August 2015 issue of Bonsai Sekai (Bonsai World) magazine published in Japanese. The article has been translated and edited for our readers. Masahiko Kimura is well known around the world for the dramatic, and often magical bonsai he creates. Beginning in 1986 we have featured the 50 part series "Magic Moments– The Artistry of Kimura" where he transformed some rather large and unusual material into spectacular bonsai masterpieces. The article first appeared in the 2015/4 issue. 26 INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 2021/NO. 4
ting every single candle: strong, weak and even sleeping buds to see how the tree reacts. In previous issues we have looked at candle cutting on Japanese black pine from the start of June onward. Here we look at the technique that involves cutting all of the new candles at the same time. The example tree we have is thick trunked informal upright Japanese black pine which is approximately forty five years old grown from seed. Traditionally the work involves needle and small branch reduction as well as the removal of the new growth. By doing all of this work in one sitting as opposed to stretching it out over two sessions, the potential for mistakes becomes less as the job becomes easier. If all of the buds including any dormant buds are also removed then the second flush of growth will be vigorous and full of life. By following this technique the mystery and difficult image of Japanese black pine will disappear for most bonsai enthusiasts. It is a
A Completely New Way Of Working Japanese Black Pine Bonsai
constant problem that we hear from our readers that it is too difficult. So please try this simplified technique. The normal time for doing candle cutting on medium size Japanese black pine bonsai starts from the first week of July. This will give the second flush of growth less time to extend and help to create a more appropriate needle length. Student: What we are looking at this time is the same technique you introduced last month on the bigger tree. I must admit it was a great shock to see that technique because it was so different from the techniques that I have heard so much about elsewhere. It has always been, “Candle cut the weak shoots first, then the medium strength and then the strong candles in that order over the course of a number of weeks. This is combined with leaving the weakest little buds untouched, however you are saying that we need to remove everything all at one time. This is a completely different idea.
A branch showing the luxuriant and vigorous growth since the spring.
Before candle cutting in order to create the energy required for vigorous budding, the tree must be heavily fertilized from the end of March until June. The organic fertilizer cakes shown here will be replaced four times during this period.
Before candle cutting, medium size Japanese black pine bonsai. Height eighteen Inches. Looking at the aged appearance of the bark the tree is at least thirty years old from seed. For a tree of this size, the ideal time to perform this work is at the start of July, around the 10th. If this is done then the needle length on the second flush of growth will be much more in keeping with the size of the tree. If done before this date, the needles will be longer, and if done later then the needles may not even reach completion. 1. Working from the tip of the branch
inward, each candle is cut off individually.
Master Kimura: I don’t know how that technique has been spread around so much. All of the people who have studied here don’t do such a troublesome technique. I have always just cut them all off at the same time.
2. Hold the shoot at the tip and then
3. In the internal part of the branch,
cut off square at the base with scissors.
find and cut off all of the small candles and buds.
Student: When I thought about it last time, if you remove all of the tiny and dormant buds at the same time as well, the tree just sends all of the energy into the second flush of growth and it does this without needing to separate it up in various stages.
Master Kimura: I think I used this analogy last time but imagine it as being like a water pipe with smaller sub pipes, each with a faucet. There is a certain water pressure in the pipe and if all of the faucets are closed, the pressure builds up equally and INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 27 2021/NO. 4
Don’t Become Confused By Trying To Determine If Buds Are Strong Or Weak, Just Cut Them All Off
4. Although we say “new shoot,” a
candle such as this, which just has one pair of new needles counts as a shoot and it should be cut off.
5. As it is being cut indiscriminately,
anywhere where there is new growth, get your scissors in and cut.
7. Before cutting off the terminal bud on this branch you
can see just how vigorous it has grown since the spring.
evenly across all of the pipes. If one faucet is open just slightly, then the water pressure will drop along that pipe and stay low. Student: So leaving on those weaker buds when candle cutting is like leaving the faucet open just a little bit on the pipe. This causes the pressure to drop. Master Kimura: Yes, it is. Japanese black pines are unlike Japanese five needle pines, they can survive without a terminal bud for two years and have a bud form in the third year without dying. Even if that bud forms you can cut it off, or rather crush it because it forms like a needle point, and it will still come back if the tree is vigorous. 28 INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 2021/NO. 4
6. Strong shoots, normal shoots, weak
shoots; don’t worry about deciding on the strength, just cut them off.
8. Every single shoot has been cut off, even those hiding at
the base of the branch. Light can now penetrate into the inside of the tree.
Basically if the tree is given the motivation to send out buds, then it will do so with great force. Student: So what you are saying is that we cut everything off all at the same time. This is a much easier to understand technique for the average bonsai enthusiast. Many people say, “Japanese black pines are so difficult,” but this seems relatively easy. Japanese black pines are a vigorous species by their nature and the hardest thing to do is to try and control that vigor. Using this technique I think I will have a lot more confidence to work on Japanese black pine. Master Kimura: That makes me happy to hear it. However you must remember that in order to guarantee
the effectiveness of this technique, the tree needs to have been well cared for and heavily fertilized before cutting the candles. I cannot stress that enough. Student: I understand. After the work is done today, what’s next? Master Kimura: Nothing much until autumn when the second flush of growth starts to harden up. After this, during the dormant period, excessive buds and needles can be thinned out to balance vigor across the bonsai. Student: Thank you very much.
Side Views Of Candle Cutting
9. Starting at the tip, working inward, all the shoots are cut.
10. Scissors are inserted at the base of the candle and the
11. Little by little progress is made into the branch.
12. Compared to the first image, all of this year’s growth has
cut made horizontally.
been removed entirely. Last year’s needles were quite short and so the thickness of the branch appears to have been halved.
13. Vigorous trees will always tend to grow upward and so
the branch is bent down a little bit using the copper wire that was applied last year.
14. The pot surface showing the removed cut shoots.
15. All of the new growth has been cut and fallen to the
16. There are a variety of sizes and strengths of shoots that
floor. As all of the new growth from the spring is being removed, this amount is only to be expected.
have been cut.
INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 29 2021/NO. 4
19. Up in the apex, the number of buds is getting a little too
dense and so at the same time as cutting the new growth it can be thinned out.
17. Halfway through the job and time to take a breather.
We didn’t find any on this tree, but often you will find tiny little buds starting to form from the spring. These will not develop into full buds for two or three years. Even these should be removed at this time by knocking them off with your scissors.
20. One final check over the entire tree to ensure all the
new growth has been removed. Even one small shoot being left on the tree can have a massive difference on the result.
The Apex Of The Tree Before Removing Shoots 18. The apex is full of lush and vigorous new growth. All of
this will be removed.
The apex of the tree after cutting. In the before picture we can barely see last year’s needles, a sign of how vigorous the new growth was.
Before removing all the new shoots. After removing all the new shoots.
30 INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 2021/NO. 4
Candle cutting has been completed on the medium size Japanese black pine, height 17 inches. After cutting, place the tree on a bench in a sunny spot and wait for the
second flush of growth. A great number of vigorous second flush shoots are just around the corner which will develop small needles and a compact shape. INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 31 2021/NO. 4
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ABOUT THE COVER Golden Weeping Willow From The Collection Of David Easterbrook Montreal, Quebec, Canada
W eeping willows are not commonly seen trained for bonsai. The long slender
Ironically, the mother tree in the garden succumbed to a fungal disease several years after the cuttings were taken but they are both alive and thriving to this day. This Golden weeping willow was displayed in the 2012 3rd U.S. National Bonsai Exhibition held in Rochester, New York. David Easterbrook Cover photo by Joe Noga
David Easterbrook displayed his Golden weeping willow in the bonsai exhibit at the September 2008 Deciduous Bonsai Symposium in Rochester, New York.
WM. N. VALAVANIS
twigs suggest a tree growing near water and present a cool feeling so they are usually displayed in early summer where the fresh green leaves can be appreciated. This Golden weeping willow, Salix sepulcralis ‘Chrysocoma,’has an interesting story. The beauty of this bonsai is due more to a fortuitous set of circumstances than any artistic merit on the part of its owner. In 1989, a violent windstorm broke several thick branches from an immense Weeping willow overhanging the owner’s stone farmhouse built in 1800. I started a few two to three inch diameter cuttings which were stuck into a bucket of wet Turface handily laying nearby. They were well rooted within a couple of months and were subsequently potted up in plastic nursery containers. The trunks were crudely wired into sinuous shapes at that time. A few years later, one of the trees was planted on a large, imported Chinese tufa stone that was left over from the 1988 ABS Convention that was held in Montréal in 1988. It was donated to the Montréal Botanical Garden in 1997 where it still resides. In 1993, the Golden weeping willow featured on the cover was planted into a fine quality Ming Dynasty, pale blue glazed, semi cascade container given to me by Mr. Wu Yee Sun after a two week training session at his Hong Kong garden in 1984. In 2001, this tree was attacked by a fungal disease that left it almost completely dead. About to throw it out, I noticed a single, small, living branch on the back of the trunk. So it was replanted into a nursery pot
until it recovered its health. In 2006, the small dangling back branch was converted into the new trunk line. However, the dead half rotten stump which was the original trunk posed a real dilemma. It was resolved by carving it into an interesting shape, treating it with lime sulphur, and when dry preserving it with wood hardener. The newly rejuvenated bonsai was then planted into a fine quality Japanese Tokoname-ware container from the Reiho Kiln.
INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 33 2021/NO. 4
A Little Magic With Shohin Bonsai Magnificent Maples
By John Romano Left– Little Gem dwarf gardenia, Gardenia jasmoindes ‘Little Gem,’ trained from a cutting by William N. Valavanis
A mong deciduous trees trained for bonsai, the most beautiful is probably the Japanese maple, Acer palmatum, generally referred to as “momiji” in Japan. This species has been cultivated for over 400 years in Japan with hundreds of cultivars developed to showcase the beauty of the leaf, bark and tree form. Having some in your shohin bonsai collection will bring you great joy for their color, delicacy and graceful appearance.
Color The color and delicate form of the five lobed leaves of Japanese maple are what sets this species apart for bonsai. Some colors are vivid, subtle, even translucent. Some are noted for spring color, some for fall color and some for summer color. There are many suitable cultivars for shohin bonsai, too many to list here. The smaller leafed cultivars such as ‘Koto Hime’ and ‘Kiyo Hime’ are both often used for shohin and mame bonsai. The ‘Shin Deshojo’, variegated, are also popular cultivars. Wiring Although the cut and grow method can be used successfully for training Japanese maples, wiring is also used. 34
INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 2021/NO. 4
However, be careful of wire digging into bark. Maples swell when growing in the spring and wires can cause damage quickly. Wire before the buds are swelling in late winter and then watch carefully! You may only leave wires on for a month or so after growth starts. Mild wire impressions can heal over time so not to worry about them digging in slightly. Feeding For shohin Japanese maple bonsai, there are a few essential techniques to encourage the necessary short internodes between leaves. One technique is to withhold spring fertilization until the first set of leaves have hardened off, or even later. The plant has plenty of stored energy and doesn’t need any early boost, it will only encourage the spring surge of long internodal growth. During the summer semidormancy, fertilizing can also be reduced. Pruning The other spring technique practiced by shohin growers to reduce internodal growth in Japanese maples is to pull off the sheaths that are at the base of the emerging leaves in the spring. As the leaves emerge you will see them extend and start to
unravel. At the base of this first pair of leaves are two ‘sheaths’ or small pieces of tissue that extends out at the base. With tweezers pull them off completely. It will retard the growth a bit and lessen the extension of the internode. At Yorozu-en in Kawaguchi, Japan, the Fukano bonsai family spend two to three days every spring just doing this sheath removal on their shohin Japanese maple bonsai. The time spent on this technique is well worth the results as Japanese maples can have long internodes. Along with this technique you will also pull out the center leaf cluster that appears between these two leaves as is normally done with Japanese maples. Spring growth can be quite strong with Japanese maples so you have to keep up with your pruning to encourage good ramification and short internodal growth. Another pruning tip is if you are cutting back a thicker branch but still want to have budding in that area, leave a short stub and cover the wound with a tree wound sealant to prevent dessication. Buds are more likely to develop near the base of the stub than if you were to cut it flush to the trunk.
is by air layering from larger trees. This is not a difficult process with Japanese maples and offers a chance at creating a more mature shohin bonsai sooner. It is all in what you are trying to achieve. If you are trying to create a slender, elegant, feminine tree, then take the slow route and work with a seedling or from seed over some years. If you are trying to make a thicker trunk shohin bonsai, try to either air layer a part of a larger tree or plant a tree in the ground for a few years to get the girth you want.
In late winter and early spring before the buds swell, you will notice that often many new buds can form at the base or on the trunk near existing branches. You can easily remove any unwanted buds from the trunk using a small ‘Xacto’ craft knife. These have replaceable blades that are razor sharp. In late fall, you can also do a seasonal ‘cut back’ pruning. Reduce any longer internodes by trimming back to buds closer to the trunk, etc. This can also be done later in winter or very early spring.
Styles Japanese maples can be trained in many bonsai styles. The elegant gentle flow of an informal upright with well developed crown and ramified branches is probably closest to its natural form in nature. Other beautiful styles are group plantings and multiple trunk style. I will never forget seeing a fantastic group planting about ten years ago in a tokonoma display at Mr. Kato’s bonsai studio. It was in fall at the height of coloration and displayed a range of at least five colors, red, orange, yellow, green and
Defoliation Japanese maples are not as strong as Trident maples and usually do not always respond well to repeated defoliation. I have found that if I do it every other year and those years that I do not repot, it is alright. However, with Japanese maples in small pots, you may have to repot every year. I find this to be the case in most instances. Therefore, I do not always defoliate unless I can judge that: the tree is very healthy, or it may be needed to reduce leaf size for an exhibition, and if I did not do it the previous year. Also, I have found it less stressful to only do selective defoliation. Remove only the larger outer leaves and not all the leaves on the tree.
About The Author JOHN ROMANO John Romano lives with his shohin bonsai collection (and the rest of his family) in West Kingston and also works at New England Bonsai Gardens in Massachusetts where he teaches bonsai classes and has private students. Mr. Romano’s shohin bonsai have been displayed in several U.S. National Bonsai Exhibitions. One of his shohin bonsai compositions won the Excellence in Design Award by the Rosade Bonsai Studio at the 2000 International Bonsai Symposium. He spent five years studying bonsai with Kenji Miyata and also studied shohin bonsai at the Taisho-en Bonsai Garden in Shizuoka, Japan.
A shohin bonsai Japanese maple, Acer palmatum, displayed at the 2009 Bay Island Bonsai Society Exhibition.
ERIC SCHRADER PHOTOS
Propagation Like Trident maples, Japanese maples can be started by seed, cuttings and air layering for shohin bonsai. Unlike Trident maple, it is not as easy to start from cuttings and, when grown from seed, will not always develop true to the parent tree. From seed, the advantage is that you can develop very nice surface roots right from the start by trimming downward growing roots and enhancing the surface roots. You can also plant a seedling on a tile or other material to force roots to grow laterally. Another advantage of starting from seed or seedling is that you can trim unwanted branches when they are small and create a tree that has an almost flawless bark. You can achieve this if you take your time and work the tree slowly over many years. Letting them grow out and cutting off the top to create a thicker shohin bonsai can also work but may not look as elegant and delicate later in its development. One great way to get a thicker trunk
gold. Fantastic! And of course, there are those who have the cultivars ‘Deshojo’ or ‘Shin Deshojo’ and will tell you there is nothing like the red colors that erupt in spring. It is brilliantly fluorescent in appearance.
INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 35 2021/NO. 4
INTERNATIONAL BONSAI
95th 2021- Part 2 Kokufu Bonsai Exhibition Sponsor: Nippon Bonsai Association Japan Cultural Department
Location: Tokyo Metropolitian Art
Dates:
Museum, Tokyo, Japan
Part 2 - February 13-17, 2021
This year’s Kokfu Bonsai Exhibiton took place with COVID precautions for visitors. Fewer bonsai were displayed and the aisles were wider to allow for social distancing. The following statistics were compiled from the exhibition guide: Kokufu Bonsai Exhibition- Part 2
Gardenia, Grardenia jasmonides. The white fragrant flowers of summer are often followed with interesting orange fruit.
Displays: 131 (usually 151) Kokufu Prizes Awarded: 3 Important Masterpieces Displayed: 8 Medium Size Bonsai: 31 Shohin Bonsai Compositions: (9) (53 individual specimens) Special Exhibits: 2 Suiseki Displayed: 4
This Oriental photina, Pourthiaea villosa, received a Kokufu Prize.
© 2021 MAKIKO KOBAYASHI PHOTOS
Bougainvillea, Bougainvillea glabra, trained as a medium size bonsai. Perhaps it was grown and trained in Okinawa.
36 INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 2021/NO. 4
Silverberry, Elaegnus pungens, developed into a shohin bonsai. Right– Japanese flowering apricot, Prunus mume, trained from an old gnarled tree. Below– Japanese black pine, Pinus thunbergii, trained from an old tree with short needles, interesting rough bark and trunk.
INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 37 2021/NO. 4
Winter flowering cherry, Prunus capanulata, trained from an old gnarled tree.
Chojubai dwarf Japanese flowering quince, Chaenomeles japonica ‘Chojubai.’ This cultivar is popular for the tiny red flowers.
Chinese quince, Pseudocydonia sinensis showing the colorful muscular bark.
38 INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 2021/NO. 4
Japanese maple, Acer palmatum, trained in the informal upright style. The focal point of this bonsai is the flat surface root region. There are several different techniques for developing such a heavy surface root region which presents a stable footing for the unscared trunk.
Left– Toyo Nishiki Japanese flowering quince, Chaenomeles speciosa ‘Toyo Nishiki.’ This cultivar is popular for bonsai because it has white, pink and red blossoms. The multiple trunks of this bonsai have excellent movement and taper.
Below– Twisted trunk pomegranate, Punica granatum ‘Nejikan,’ trained from a cutting for many decades. The small silver tag hanging on the lowest branch denotes this is an Important Bonsai Masterpiece.
INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 39 2021/NO. 4
A large size collected Sargent juniper, Juniperus chinensis, var. Sargenti ‘Shimpaku.’
Zuisho Japanese five-needle pine, Pinus parviflora ‘Zuisho,’ completely container grown.
Left & Above– Japanese camellia, Camellia japonica, displaying small size flowers.
Accessory planting for the award winning Burning bush on right.
40 INTERNATIONAL BONSAI 2021/NO. 4
An accessory planting of Golden fern planted on a stone.
Rough bark Japanese maple, Acer palmatum ‘Arakawa,’, trained in twin trunk style. This bonsai has fine delicate twigs which is unusual for this cultivar.
Burning bush, Euonymus alatus, trained in the multiple trunk style. The many trunks have grown together, which is the natural form for this species. This bonsai received one of three Kokufu prizes.
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Above & Below– Japanese red pine, Pinus densiflora, trained from an old collected specimen or from a field grown plant.
Right– Satsuki azalea, Rhodendron indicum cv., trained fromr field grown plant for several decades.
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Left– Shishigashira Japanese maple, Acer palmatum ‘Shishigashira trained in the twin trunk style from an airlayer. This choice cultivar has small crinkled leaves and is usually orange/yellow in autumn.
Below– Shohin bonsai composition featuring: Japanese black pine, Pinus thunbergii, Japanese maple, Acer palmatum, Silverberry, Elaegnus pungens, Chojubai dwarf Japanese flowering quince, Chaenomeles japonica ‘Chojubai,’ and Sargent juniper, Juniperus chinensis var. Sargentii ‘Shimpaku.’
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Top– Cork bark Japanese black pine, Pinus thunbergii ‘Corticosa,’ is cultivated for the thick corky bark which develop in wing like structures adding drama to the bonsai. This masterpiece bonsai is especially prized because of the excellent lower trunk and surface root region which hides the graft.
Right– A large size collected Sargent juniper, Juniperus chinensis, var. Sargenti ‘Shimpaku,’ has beautiful dead wood and dynamic branching.
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Fall Open House & Sale Saturday, Oct. 9, 2021 from 8:00am - 4:30pm
20% Off All Merchandise www.BrusselsBonsai.com/calendar-of-events/ 8125 Center Hill Road, Olive Branch, MS 38654 | 800-582-2593
