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EXAMPLE PAGES
FROM OUR 2014/15 EDITION
S
ZERMATT
GET HIGH
went to press, the most expensive in
those who died on the descent from the
Europe. There is a flipside for parents –
original successful conquering of the
children are completely free until age 9,
peak, and the hundreds who have died
then pay half price to age 16, among the
on the mountain in the 150 years since.
most generous child pricing in Europe.
So if you’ve not made it to Zermatt yet,
Costs in resort aren’t cheap either,
what should you expect? Well, the first
although there is a Co-op.
thing to know is that you’re almost certain
So what is it that pops Zermatt over the
to arrive by rail. THE way to arrive is
finish line, to claim that “best in the world”
by train from Geneva Airport, with one
title? The Matterhorn. Quite simply this
change and you’re up on resort, but some
mountain is truly awesome and leaves all
package tour operators run a coach to the
other peaks in its shade (literally in a few
neighbouring village of Tasch from where
cases). When you’re in Zermatt it is simply
a very plush shuttle train trundles you the
”there”, always, dominating the skyline –
5 minutes on to Zermatt from a Eurostar-
somehow even managing to do so when
sized terminal (well, not quite, but it seems
ki resorts come in all shapes and sizes,
it is obscured by cloud.
big for a small village).
and there are several contenders for
Your eyes are constantly drawn to it, to
Zermatt has grown into a big resort
“world’s best resort” – depending on
see how the light is playing on it, from
and, attracting more than two million
what criteria you use or who’s voting –
the first time you look out of the window
visitors annually, it’s busy year round.
but one seems to have captured skiers’
in the morning, to sunset in the evening.
Electric taxis (built in the resort) and a
imaginations more than any other:
I first skied in Zermatt in the summer
Zermatt.
of 1982 when I was still at school, on
there are also horse-drawn sleighs, so
Why? The famous Swiss resort does
a budget Interrail trip. A friend and I
peaceful does not really sum it up, but
have a great ski area, extending to over
camped on the edge of the resort and
350km with runs down across the border
hit the slopes in T-shirt and jeans at 7am
place where vehicles powered by the
into Italy. It also has Europe’s highest
on a July morning, quickly realising how
internal combustion engine are allowed
ski runs, its top lift touching 3900m,
cold it was despite the sunshine, as the
on the roads.
meaning that in quite severe periods of
overnight freeze still had a hold. We
There are multiple access lifts from the
limited snowfall in the Alps it tends to
dived into the mountain restaurant to
valley to the slopes including cable cars,
when areas of quite high elevation are
corduroy once again and repeated the
normally walk from any property to a lift,
struggling. It also means the lift-served
process. By 10am the snow had softened
but it can be quite a walk if you’re at a
vertical is one of the world’s biggest, and
enough for perfect conditions … which
more distant outpost. The ski bus can get
even the bottom of those 2200 vertical
lasted about 90 minutes before the
crowded, too, so it’s best to check your
metres is at an altitude higher than the
surface had melted too much and the
accommodation is truly close to the lift or
top lifts at some low-lying areas. Plus,
snow was a sticky stodge.
organises electric transport to and from
thanks to its glacier, it’s one of only two
I’ve been lucky enough to go back
the base station.
resorts in the world that tries to open
half a dozen times over the past three
Once up on the slopes you’ll know
for snow sports 365 days a year, so it
decades, most recently earlier this very
you are indeed on one of the planet’s
should be open today. And it is chock-full
summer. The resort has grown a lot over
best ski regions, modestly but fairly
of comfortable accommodation, in an
the years, and new plush chalets and
accurately named ”Matterhorn Paradise”
atmospheric car-free village, rich in skiing
apartments had appeared since I was
by the lift company.
and climbing heritage and with a vibrant
last in town three years before that, but
There really are endless runs through
nightlife to boot.
as usual, these were all dwarfed, made
all kinds of terrain for all ability levels
All this definitely places Zermatt as a
to feel insignificant somehow, by that
here, and one of my favourites is to get
serious contender for that “best in the
eternal mountain presence towering
right to the top of the ski area on the
world” title, and it is the most highly
above. No other ski resort can really
Klein Matterhorn then ski down towards
rated ski area in the world if you count
compete with that, although some –
Cervinia in Italy on a glorious long
TripAdvisor reviews, up there with some of
Niseko, Lake Louise and Murren for
descent of more than 11km and nearly
the world’s best capital cities for popularity.
example – do come close.
1800m of vertical.
But in case the picture is just too rosy,
Zermatt is just completing a summer of
Known as the Pista Ventina, it’s a very long,
there is a downside to being very good,
celebrations of the 150th anniversary of
winding, rolling piste that just lasts forever,
very popular and in Switzerland: high
the first conquering of the Matterhorn,
with southwest exposure at high elevation,
prices. While holidays to Eurozone ski
by Brit Edward Whymper. The mountain
and it’s one of my all-time favourites.
ski bus buzz around the streets, and
MICHAEL PORTMANN
gondola and funicular railway, so you can
010 //
TM15 // INTHESNOW.COM
WORDS: PATRICK THORNE
@INTHESNOWMAG
Stopping for a proper espresso as you
areas are cheaper for 2015–16, a 6-day adult pass for Zermatt and Cervinia is
date in July, partly in recognition of his
cross the border at the first mountain hut
coming in at CHF435, or £295 as we
achievement but also in memory of
on the Italian side is just a bonus.
TM15 // 011
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010 //
TM15 // INTHESNOW.COM
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WORDS: PATRICK THORNE
TM15 // 011
NOT WITHOUT A PADDLE
L
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convallis velit. Pellentesque vehicula tincidunt rhoncus. Cras eget mi dui. Nulla lacinia augue at dapibus vulputate. Duis in lacinia quam, nec semper metus. Aliquam erat volutpat. Sed fringilla odio libero. Nullam vel dolor a velit pulvinar vulputate. Donec ac magna eu lacus vestibulum venenatis eget vitae nibh. Suspendisse ullamcorper nec augue a lacinia. Proin accumsan congue nisl vel euismod. Suspendisse potenti. Cras tincidunt mi turpis, in tincidunt ante vestibulum eget. Ut iaculis lectus quis ex egestas, vel elementum lacus euismod. In eu facilisis velit, ut feugiat eros in tincidunt ante vestibulum eget. Ut iaculis.
“JUST HAVE TO KEEP PADDLING HARD”
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4
REASONS TO BIKE IN THE ALPS
1. The View
2. The Difficulty
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3. The People
4. The Reward
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Praesent condimentum interdum tristique. Maecenas nunc turpis, facilisis a turpis non, sollicitudin ultricies leo. et. Duis in tincidunt ligula, et convallis velit. Pellentesque vehicula tincidunt rhoncus. Cras eget mi dui. Nulla lacinia augue at dapibus vulputate.
Mattis. Nulla tristique nunc risus, in vulputate nisl fermentum a. Aenean at velit non lectus accumsan ornare vel eget mi. Pellentesque habitant morbi tristique senectus et netus et . TM15 // 011
TM15 // 011
“Engaging columns written by genuinely passionate and often resort based writers gives real credibility to the editorial used in Love The Mountains” PATRICK THORNE | EDITOR
CLIMBING
TIPS & TRICKS Etiam gravida nunc non libero faucibus vehicula. Nam non lacus id tortor sagittis tristique non finibus massa. Nunc justo ante, facilisis eu nisl ut, venenatis consequex bibendum
GRIP
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Duis in lacinia quam, nec semper metus. Aliquam erat volutpat. Sed fringilla odio libero. Nullam vel dolor a velit pulvinar vulputate. Donec ac magna eu lacus vestibulum venenatis eget vitae nibh. Suspendisse ullamcorper nec augue a lacinia. Proin accumsan congue nisl vel euismod. Suspendisse potenti. Cras tincidunt mi turpis, in tincidunt ante vestibulum eget. Ut iaculis lectus quis ex egestas, vel elementum lacus euismod. In eu facilisis velit, ut feugiat eros
Sed fringilla Charlotte van Gils is one of the
odio libero. Nullam vel dolor How did you get involved in a velit pulvinar vulputate. Donecyour ac magna eu lacus vestibulum world’s best snowboarders and a designing own signature venenatishelmet itae nibh. Suspendisse ullamcorper nec Sinner-sponsored athlete. Originally and goggles? augue a lacinia. i turpis, in tincidunt ante from the Netherlands, van Gils went CVG> I tried out some Sinner products vestibulum eget.
NEW SWISS LAW THWARTS BRITISH CHALET OPERATORS!
on her first winter sports holiday
to find my favourite designs; I’m really
when she was 11, unusually opting
picky about how helmets and goggles
to snowboard rather than ski. After
should fit. So I was stoked when I tried
taking a boarding trip and practising
the Galaxy goggles and Titan helmet. I
gymnastics through school, van Gils
like the Galaxy goggle because it’s like
got air and pulled her first tricks on
looking through a wide-angle lens. You
indoor slopes and now snowboarding
can see everything without having to turn
dominates her life.
your head. The helmet I love because it’s very light; I don’t notice having it on, and
Why did you decide to board on your
it has proven to do its job multiple times.
first holiday?
I have broken a couple of helmets by
CVG> It was pretty random. I was
slamming without having one concussion
at home, 11-years-old, and my dad
in the last 2 years. I love the design,
was filling out what ski classes my
based on the red rocks of Moab, Utah,
sisters and I would do on our annual
and Denver, Colorado. It’s where my
trip to Austria. There was a big air
friends and I cut loose after a fun season.
snowboard competition on TV and
We camp and party until the sun comes
seeing people flip and do tricks on
up. The views are pretty much like the
a snowboard made me want to ride,
goggle strap show!
so I asked my dad to enrol me onto a snowboard class.
What are your main ambitions for the coming season?
STRENGTH
CVG> I have some tricks in mind that
CVG> Breckenridge is home and I
I really want to learn. I won’t spoil the
love it because of the perfect jumps,
surprise, but keep checking the videos
and there is always something to ride
uploaded on my website! I’ve always
no matter what the weather is like.
wanted to hit a big powder jump, so that
Copper Mountain, also in Colorado,
one is on the bucket list for this season.
has good jumps, fun rails, and they
I don’t like to think in results but I
change the jibs weekly so there’s
hope to land some nice runs in the
always something new to ride. Its
competitions this season.
back bowls are a lot of fun on the
Beyond that, I don’t know, sometimes
powder days as well! I was in Perisher,
it’s better not to plan to far ahead but
Australia, last month and it has a
just enjoy the ride!
perfect park, jumps and jibs, with a
charlottevangils.com
little T-bar, allowing 100 runs a day!
sinner.eu
TRIPP FAY
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Which are your favourite mountains?
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OTM14 // 023
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