nov + dec 2023
Discovering DC Hotspots An Immigrant’s Golden Touch Food Favorites Party Season Returns Jim Crane’s Best Decision
November + December 2023 | Mv | 1
The True Art of Living Well – The Village of Tanglewood A Houston tradition in luxury senior living, The Village of Tanglewood offers discerning seniors an elegant lifestyle and maintenance-free living with a host of services and amenities, each designed to allow residents to Live Life Well®. The luxury senior living community allows residents to experience the best of all worlds, with the freedom to enjoy friends, community ties, and personal interests, along with superb dining and worry-free transportation—all included in your monthly lease. There is a lot of positive energy at The Village of Tanglewood! The community has a fully operational generator. With this full-building generator, there is no outlet that can hide. The entire building will be powered which will eliminate the need to evacuate residents, ensure power for necessary equipment, provide safety and security during inclement weather, prevent mold growth, and food from spoiling. The on-site generator will also ensure that systems such as refrigerators, stoves, and air-conditioning will be served without missing a beat. As sole owners of the latest, most advanced piece of equipment, The Village of Tanglewood has full rights of usage. This is advantageous compared to most communities leasing the equipment where they are at the mercy of others in when and how they are able to use the generator. The Village of Tanglewood prioritizes the safety and comfort of its residents to be able to have the freedom to utilize such an important piece of equipment without any potential obstacles. The Village of Tanglewood is located minutes from the Galleria, Theatre District, and the Texas Medical Center, allowing us to provide access to the best that Houston has to offer. The Village of Tanglewood believes that your apartment home should be as appealing as its premier location. With high-quality design details and finishes, such as nine-foot ceilings, crown molding, spacious walk-in closets, stainless steel appliances, washer & dryers, and balconies, our residents enjoy traditional, luxury living. Join The Village of Tanglewood for monthly events or visit for lunch to experience its excellent culture and a taste of tradition in luxury senior living. Visit our website, www.villageoftanglewood.com or call 346-800-5981 to schedule a tour and lunch.
We’ve Got the Power Powered by the latest generation, state-of-the-art generator, The Village of Tanglewood provides its residents the safety and security to weather whatever mother nature has in store. As the only senior living company in Houston with the newest 2 | Mv | November + December 2023 high-powered generators, residents are able to live with peace of mind knowing
Contact Us Today
November + December 2023 | Mv | 3
/ november + december 2023 Send comments, thoughts or ideas to intownmagazine@gmail.com Intown is Mailed USPS Exclusively to: Afton Oaks, Briargrove, Oak Estates, River Oaks Royden Oaks, Tanglewood, West University
contents 16 6
ON THE COVER 12 16
18
6
PUBLISHER’S LETTER
8-11
ARTS & EVENTS
12-14
BEST EATS OF 2023
16-17
TWO JEWELERS SIDE BY SIDE
18-21
TRAVEL: WHAT TO DO IN D.C.
22
BUZZ
PRODUCTION PUBLISHER
M. A. Haines EDITOR
Lisa June
memorialvillagesmagazine.com
Web Design CSS Art & Design Layout & Graphic Design CSS Art & Design Graphic Designer Cris Bell Photographer Wells Brown
CONTRIBUTORS
Lindsay Mowad William Hanover Marene Gustin Evans Attwell Philip Berquist Minnie Payne Virginia Billeaud Anderson
For advertising rates and information: 713.525.8607 intownmagazine@gmail.com Space reservation deadline is 15 days prior to publication.
Memorial Villages magazine is published bi-monthly by SNS Media. Articles are welcome and will be given careful consideration for possible publication. Memorial Villages magazine does not assume any responsibility for unsolicited materials. Materials submitted will be returned if accompanied by a stamped, self-addressed envelope to Box 980757 Houston, TX 77098. You can also e-mail intownmagazine@gmail.com. Copyright 2022 by Intown magazine. All rights reserved. Content may not be reprinted or reproduced without permission from Intown magazine.
4 | Mv | November + December 2023
LIVE IT O UT
in a space you’ll enjoy day after day for years to come. In Houston, a covered patio is the new must-have. We custom design and build them for your space to include elements like fire features for gathering and room for entertaining, escaping, and unwinding.
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November + December 2023 | Mv | 5
Publisher’s Letter Jim Crane’s Best Decision
N
o one knows for sure if Dusty would have been allowed to come back for another season. We only know he wanted to go out on his terms and did precisely that. “I am excited to see what God has planned for the rest of my life,” Baker stated in his usual calm and cool Cali voice, announcing his retirement as the Astros manager. That forward-looking and optimistic view has served him well in his four-year tenure as the Astros beloved skipper. He was the right man at the right time for the Astros and left a legacy that we may never see again. We don’t and may never know the extent of what all happened in that infamous 2017 sign-stealing and trash-banging scheme. That resulted in the Astros being fined by MLB, losing draft picks, and suspensions to some managers and coaches, but no players. Who knew what would come next? Jim Crane knew he needed a veteran manager who could handle all the pressure of the job. It was the seasoned cool cat from California who was tough and smart enough to control a desperate situation. And he wanted a last shot at a Championship that had eluded him in his previous manager jobs. Baker and his Astros were two wins away from four consecutive pennants and trips to the World Series, having lost a game seven in 2020 and 2023. He was the best man for taking over an organization reeling after the 2017 cheating scandal came to light in late 2019. Baker left an indelible mark on his players and the city that respected him. He never shied away from controversy when he felt he was right. An example was his standing by his embattled field general and catcher, Martin Maldonado. Baker, drafted by the Atlanta Braves in 1967, was convinced by Henry Aaron to play in the South despite his hesitancy due to the civil unrest and his father trying to keep him from playing. He later went to the LA Dodgers, where he was a star and won a World Series. Now, as a winemaker, there is a dedicated Hammerin’ Hank Cabernet from his Baker Family Wine. He gets credit for the “high five’ celebratory hand slap but, in his typically humble manner, deferred to the guy who high-fived him as the creator. He thanked Houston for being ‘treated with truth and honesty’ since he arrived here. That Dusty is the least we could do.
6 | Mv | November + December 2023
THERE’S A
BETTER APPROACH
TO CANCER CARE in the Texas Medical Center At Houston Methodist Neal Cancer Center, we treat every aspect of your cancer. Leading oncologists work with our specialists across disciplines to minimize cancer’s effects on major organs. One comprehensive team — dedicated to your individual care — uses the latest research, treatments and technology to stop your cancer. From infusion and clinical trials to surgery and reconstruction, our innovative care is available in the Texas Medical Center.
The Woodlands
Willowbrook
Katy-West Houston Baytown
Texas Medical Center
That’s the difference between practicing medicine and leading it. Sugar Land
713.790.2700 houstonmethodist.org/cancer-tmc
Clear Lake
November + December 2023 | Mv | 7
Arts +
EVENTS
Artupdate houston published every two weeks by houstonintown. For updates and more go to houstonintown.com and sign up for free updates.
MUSEUMS Asia Society Texas Center
Tsherin Sherpa: Spirits
Ongoing Through Jan 7
Rafael Domenechand Tomas Vu: Heat Silhouette Opens Nov 11
Museum Of Fine Arts Houston
Robert Frank and Todd Webb: Across America, 1955 Ongoing through Jan 7
Rembrandt to Van Gogh: Masterpieces from the Armand Hammer Collection Ongoing through Jan 21
MEMORIAL VILLAGES FARMERS MARKET
Kehinde Wiley: An Archaeology of Silence
Every Saturday, Rain or Shine
Nov 10 through May 27
Contemporary Arts Museum Houston
Jordan Stafer: Trilogy
Ongoing through Nov 26
Six Scenes from Our Future
Ongoing through Mar 17
This Way: A Houston Group Show Dec 8 through Mar 24
Holocaust Museum Houston
The Negro Motorist Green Book
Ongoing through Nov 26
9am - 1pm
RESILIENCE, Drawing the Line, 2023, by Marc Bauer, at the Menil Collection through Summer, 2024
HOPE: Stories of Houston Survivors Ongoing through Dec 3
Holodomor: The Famine-Genocide of Ukraine 1932-1933 Menil Collection Ongoing through Jan 21
The Iconic Portrait Strand by Nestor Topchy HanneDarboven-Writing Time Ongoing through Feb 11
8 | Mv | November + December 2023
Chryssa & New York
Ongoing through Mar 10
Houston Museum Of Natural Science
Permanent Exhibits Alfred C. Glassell, Jr. Hall Cullen Hall of Gems and Minerals Everyday Faberge Farish Hall of Texas Wildlife Frensley/Graham Hall of African Wildlife Hall Of Ancient Egypt
Hunters Creek Village at First Congregational Church 10840 Beinhorn Road Hamman Hall Of Texas Coastal Ecology Herzstein Foucault Pendulum John McGovern Hall of The Americas Lester & Sue Smith Gem Vault Morian Hall of Paleontology Starke Hall of Malacology Wiess Energy Hall Welch Hall of Chemistry
November + December 2023 | Mv | 9
Special Exhibitions Sharks! The Meg, The Monsters, & The Myths King Tut’s Tomb Discovery Experience MUSIC & DANCE HOUSTON SYMPHONY
See the classical music column Houston Ballet
The Nutcracker
Nov 24 through Dec 27
Houston Grand Opera
Falstaff
Ongoing through Nov 10
THEATER A.D. PLAYERS
A Texas Carol
Nov 22 through Dec 23
ALLEY THEATRE
A Christmas Carol
Nov 17 through Dec 30
Broadway Across America The Hobby Center
MJ
Nov 14-19
MILLER OUTDOOR THEATER
100-Year Celebration Comes to a Close Nov 11
Saturday, November 4 at 7:00 p.m.
Beijing Dance Theatre: Three Poems
November 11, 5:30-7:30 p.m.
Celebrate Miller 100! 18 Shields Ln | Montgomery
List Price $1,700,000 | MLS# 70381141
Spectacular custom built home in the prestigious Bentwater community on 1.07 acres with access to 3 golf courses. All living areas and bedrooms are downstairs with an exercise or game room up. The open living concept allows for classic entertaining with a spacious kitchen, bar area, and adjoining TV room. Beverly Smith | Coldwell Banker Realty | 713-569-2113
Ongoing through Dec.31
Panto Alicia On Wonderland Dec 1 through 31
7:30 p.m.
BELLA GAIA and William Close & The Earth Harp Collective STAGES REPERTORY THEATER
Switzerland
Always... Patsy Cline
Oct 6 through Nov 12
THE ENSEMBLE THEATER
Motown Christmas
Nov 17 through Dec 24
Theatre Under the Stars The Ugly Christmas Sweater Musical Nov 28 through Dec 24
2429 Southgate Blvd | Rice University Area
27774 Muckelroy Rd | Hempstead
A University area contemporary find, designed by prominent architect Christopher Robertson. Made of brick and wood; custom crafted with white oak hardwoods, porcelain block flooring and cantilevered walls. Includes elevator and summer kitchen. David M Young | Compass | 713-320-6453
MUST SELL! Discover this gorgeous 11.93+ acre UNRESTRICTED property. A Custom 5-bedroom home awaits, accompanied by a newer roof, 2022 AC units, and a chef-worthy remodeled kitchen with professional appliances. Wendy Cline | Wendy Cline Properties | 281-858-3451
List Price $2,500,000 | MLS# 20619739
10 | Mv | November + December 2023
List Price $1,250,000 | MLS# 8172118
Shell Energy Field
4722 Waring St | Afton Oaks
List Price $2,800,000 | MLS# 20619739
A truly unrivaled masterpiece built in 2006 and entirely modernized in 2023 with uncompromising quality and style. This amazing home boasts 6 spacious bedrooms, 5/2 baths, open living areas with soaring ceiling, an extraordinary island kitchen and amazing family gameroom with adjacent children’s playroom. The spacious backyard features a sparkling saltwater pool and spa and large covered patio. David M Young | Compass | 713-320-6453
Houston Dynamo host Salt Lake in First Round of MLS Playoffs
SPORTS Houston Dynamo Playoffs
Match 2 Salt Lake Nov 6
Match 3 Salt Lake
Nov 11 (if necessary)
Shell Energy Field
Houston Texans NRG Stadium Nov 5 19 26
Tampa Bay Arizona Jacksonville
Dec 3 24 21
Denver Cleveland Tennessee
17537 Seidel Cemetary Road | Tomball List Price $2,990,000 | MLS# 13855166
This Gorgeous Estate on 25 Acres is the Best of Both Worlds, Country Living with City Convenience! This Custom Home was Designed by Mark W. Todd Architects & Custom Built by Kerry Emmott Featuring 5 Spacious Bedrooms and 4 & a Half Bathrooms. Wendy Cline | Wendy Cline Properties | 281-858-3451
17408 Rachels Way | Tomball
1802 Potomac Dr | Westhaven Estates
Breathtaking four bdrm estate home w/ almost 4600 SF of living space, an impressive home theater, a spacious primary suite w/ a luxurious spa-like bath & HUGE walk-in closet, oversized three car garage w/ epoxy floors & more all on a .6+ acre lot! Wendy Cline | Wendy Cline Properties | 281-858-3451
Nestled in a highly sought-after neighborhood, this magnificent three story townhouse offers a blend of modern luxury and timeless elegance. Boasting 3 or 4 bedroom and three full baths, its a spacious and versatile home that caters to the most discerning of tastes. Marilyn Arendt | Marilyn Arendt Properties | 281-433-9113
List Price $ 1,750,000 | MLS# 52331210
List Price $540,000 | MLS# 66410589
November + December 2023 | Mv | 11
FOOD
Rajin’ Cajun new location on Wirt Rd.
Best Eats of
3 2 20
Some Old Friends, Some New Places, and Some Must Eat At Survivors
T
by Marene Gustin
he Houston restaurant scene certainly appears to have recovered from the days of the COVID lockdown, supple chain delays, and spiraling inflation. While things may not be all wine and roses, a glut of new eateries opened this year and several more have survived the trying times to become must-eat locales this year. Some fancy, some casual, some brand new, and some old favorites, here are a few of our recommendations. Enjoy. Ragin Cajun
1725 Wirt Rd. | 713.832.1399 | ragin-cajun.com/spring-branch/
L
ongtime Mandola family mainstay of mudbugs and shrimp po’boys, Ragin Cajun, at one time, had almost a half dozen outposts, but over the years they all closed, except for the 1974 original on Richmond Ave. Which we hope, much like the giant crawfish on the rooftop, will never die. But late this year a long-awaited Spring Branch location opened, thrilling fans of the low country boiled shellfish, red potatoes, and corn. After a lengthy remodeling, turning the former car dealership into a Cajun comfort eatery, the new Ragin Cajun arose and now serves up the goods for westside diners. Bring on the blacked catfish, boiled crawdads, and dirty rice, and let the good times roll! 12 | Mv | November + December 2023
November + December 2023 | Mv | 13
Squable
632 W. 19th | 832.834.7362 squabletime.com
H
aving survived opening during COVID, Squable in The Heights has some serious street cred. Created by James Beard Award-winning chef Justin Yu and bar tsar Bobby Heugel, Squable serves up bites with a European flair made with local ingredients. A sleek yet comfy interior with bar brick walls and lots of wood and clean line and light, whether it’s a date night or a solitary bite at OG puffy the bar, you can’t go wrong here.queso Known for the giant French cheeseburger —topped with no ordinary slices but a molten pile of raclette — this menu ranges from pate and caviar to a homey and succulent roast chicken. Of course, the cocktails are spot on, but so are the beer and cider offerings. A great addition to The Heights.
MaKiin
2651 Kipling St., Suite 101 832.695.999 | makiinthai.com
I
Los Tios
5192 Buffalo Speedway 713.432.7131 | lostiosrestaurant.com
H
omegrown Tex-Mex chain Los Tios opened its sixth spot in West University Place this past summer. Full of colorful tiles, tables topped with Mexican oilcloths, and greenery, stepping inside this Plaza in the Park shopping center dining option is like stepping into a Border town plaza. The margaritas are cold and the lunch specials are more than reasonable. Of course, there’s queso (get the Katie’s T-Sip Dip topped with taco meat and guacamole), tacos, and fajitas, but you can’t get the famous OG puffy queso, a puffed-up crispy shell smothered in Chile con Queso. Classic combo plates and some pretty good grilled plates round out the menu at this new edition to the venerable Adair family chain. 14 | Mv | November + December 2023
f you’re looking for upscale Thai, then this is what you have been waiting for. On the ground floor of the new Hanover River Oaks high rise, MaKiin builds itself as a place of traditional Thai plates with a modern twist. Co-owner of Kin Dee, Lukkaew Srasrisuwan added this new concept to her restaurant portfolio which currently includes the over two years and a half old Kin Dee in the Heights. Guests at Makiin can expect an elevated, unique, and memorable experience that showcases artfully designed dishes as an ode to the cuisines of Thailand and the royal family. Yes, it’s fancy, but whether it’s a special occasion or just because you need some really good Thai, Makiin (which means “come to eat”) will impress with curries, squid, fried rice, and noodle dishes that come in vessels almost more ornate than the food.
Co-owner Srasrisuwan
“With Kin Dee, we showed Houstonians Thai food can be fun and vibrant,” says Srasrisuwan.” MaKiin will deliver a more elevated experience that will celebrate the artistry of my homeland’s authentic flavors, ingredients, and techniques.”
November + December 2023 | Mv | 15
The Evolution of A Family Jewelry Business
H
By Virginia Billeaud Anderson
umberto Quintanilla Jr. remembers counting diamonds in his dad’s jewelry business at the age of twelve. He didn’t want to be there, but at twelve didn’t have much say in the matter. Although lunch could be fun. “At the time my dad had about 40 employees. Eating together felt like one big family. My dad acted more like a friend than a boss. Fridays were always stressful because they met quotas. Everyone was on edge and avoided my dad. At the end of the day though he’d treat them to beer. My dad worked 16 to 18 hour shifts. Work never ended.” But when it did, some poor jeweler could lose his shirt in a poker game. Junior enrolled in summer school to get out of jewelry work. The jewelry business wasn’t for him. He was going to college. “You haven’t visited in a while.” Humberto Quintanilla Sr. hollered at me from his pickup truck. I was on a walk. Later, I did visit with jewelry needing repair, and while there saw something that intrigued me. A prominent Houston jeweler who had a high-overhead upscale River Oaks area retail establishment that specialized in Rolexes and glitzy diamond settings carried in his store’s jewelry work. I watched him stroll past Quintanilla’s jewelry counter to the rear where Uncle Sergio Quintanilla was at his jewelry bench. Perhaps it was then that I first entertained the notion of learning the story behind Senior and Junior and their jewelry business, Quintanilla Jewelers, Inc. Recently, over the course of several visits I did learn their story. It turns out the company didn’t always do jewelry work for retail jewelers and the public. Senior began his business working for wholesale distributors who sold to retailers. Stuckey Diamonds was an example. Senior repeatedly hit them up for work, until they slammed him with a 2,000 piece order and an impossibly fast turnaround. “Dad had charisma. He charmed his guys into working all weekend. After several years of giving him jobs, Stuckey Diamonds handed over all 16 | Mv | November + December 2023
their work to my dad.” Senior moved his sions. “One company farmed out chamoperations into their space, then ultimately pionship rings to my dad and uncle. They brought their employees into his company. made Dallas Cowboys rings in 1995. In Art Berg spoke no Spanish and Senior 1994 and 1995 they made Houston Rockspoke no English when they met at Berg’s ets rings. They also made Stanley Cup rings.” Humberto Quintanilla, Sr. was born in jewelry manufacturing company Berg & Co. in 1970. Senior was sixteen. A fourth Monterrey Mexico in 1954. When he was generation jeweler from Poland, Berg two, his father left the family and went to hired Senior and taught him everything America. Senior dropped out of school in he knew about jewelry. With large retail the first grade to help his mother. At eight accounts, the two worked side by side late years old he sold bubble gum and polished into the night. A deep bond formed. Berg shoes. By ten, he raked in enough money was a father figure. “My dad stayed with to help his mother pay bills and feed his Mr. Berg until 1982. Berg said there was younger siblings. In her estimation, her nothing more he could teach him. It was son was out of control. He hung out with Humberto Quintanilla Sr. and Humberto Quintanilla Jr. in jewelry workshop time for dad to go on his own and spread older boys and drank beer. So she packed his wings.” After that Senior became shop him off to his father in Houston. Once foreman at Gold Imports. While there here, he discovered his father had anothhe worked after hours for the distributor er family. Senior was put to work in his Gemline. Gemline offered Senior use of father’s body shop, wet-sanding cars and their shop for his own jobs if he handled cleaning up. Not fun. Expenses were deall of their jewelry work. Just as he had at ducted from his pay. One advantage of Stuckey Diamonds, Senior brought some working in the body shop however was the Gemline employees into his business. availability of cars. Senior liked to dance “Back then things were booming. Quint- and drink. One needed wheels to raise hell anilla Jewelers was growing fast. My uncle in Houston. Fed up with painting cars, Senior got a tree cutting gig. “Easy and fun.” came to help.” Junior remembers “big time” commis- Then he met jeweler Art Berg.
Ever been so afraid that you bargained with God? Junior had stuck to his plan. At 18 years old he was into his first week of college. Then Senior got knocked flat with pancreatitis and couldn’t work. Junior quit school. “The company came first. My uncle and I ran the shop. It took a year for my dad to recover and return to the business. I stuck around until I was 21.” After a “huge fallout” with his uncle, Junior returned to school. Two weeks after classes began Senior had a heart attack. “Back to square one. I looked up and said please don’t take him from me and I’ll never leave his side. This time I pledged to stick with my dad and the jewelry store 110%. Life is funny. Looking back, I wouldn’t change anything. I’ve been blessed with the chance to work alongside two great men, who are my best friends. Both taught me this business. Dad taught me bench work, customer service, paperwork, polishing, more. My uncle taught me technical and chemical processes like casting, plating, molds and enameling. Also enduring and overcoming obstacles.” By 1989 wholesale jewelry distributors were taking it on the chin because of changes in the industry and a tanking economy. Many moved overseas. In 1991, Senior returned to Berg’s shop to handle Berg’s work and his own accounts. He kept some of Berg’s best jewelers. “My dad welcomed the chance to hang out with Mr. Berg the last two years of his life. Mr. Berg passed away in 1993. By 2000, the distributors we worked for had gone overseas, forcing us to look elsewhere for new accounts. So we began working for retail jewelry stores and jewelry designers and opened to the public.” As I listened to Junior’s story, it struck me I would never have known Quintanilla Jewelry if they hadn’t shifted their focus from wholesale distributors to retail stores, jewelry designers and the public. And they probably wouldn’t have made the gold bezel for the ancient Greek coin Donnie bought me. Shift in direction landed them in new territory with a bunch of things to figure out. “We opened to the public, but didn’t have any clientele and truthfully didn’t know how to service them.” Junior made significant updates to the shop. He invested in a 3-D printer, laser engraver, laser welder, and a new platinum casting machine. He added employees, and created a website that lists services and describes steps in their custom design process, one being a three
dimensional model for approval before the finished product. They steered through “rough patches.” Today the shop at 2111 Richmond Avenue is a full service jewelry business that specializes in custom jewelry. Junior credits technology with enhancing their already excellent custom jewelry work. “We’ve always done good work, but with the new technology our custom pieces are more refined, in fact, on another level. Three years ago my dad completed treatment for stage three lung cancer that made him extremely weak and unable to
spend much time in the shop, but now he works everyday. My uncle recently retired. Sort of. He spends one week every month helping us. Bottom line, a kid from Mexico with a first grade education, no English, and very little reading skills accomplished all this. Just as important, he taught us parenting. My dad has six kids. I have three kids. My dad Humberto G. Quintanilla is my hero. Thank you for wanting to know his story. quintanillajewelers.com
OUR FRESH OYSTERS WILL PUT YOU IN THE MOOD.
Searching for Houston’s freshest authentic Gulf Coast seafood? Look no further than Eugene’s. From signature seafood dishes, to impeccable select Angus Beef steak to the best burger in town, our magnificently prepared culinary options will keep you busy.
Open Monday thru Saturday : Lunch 11:00 to 2:30pm / Happy Hour 4:00 to 7:00pm Dinner 5:00 to 10:00pm / Open Saturday 11:00am to 10:00pm Saturday Brunch 11:00 to 3:00pm / Saturday Happy Hour 2:00 to 5:00pm / Closed Sunday
For reservations go to: EugenesHouston.com/reservations or call 713.807.8883 Eugene’s Gulf Coast Cuisine 1985 Welch Street Houston,Texas 77019 November + December 2023 | Mv | 17
D.C.
TRAVEL
What to do in Washington, D.C., when your flight home is cancelled?
The author enjoying pint at Shelly’s
By the Honorable Philip Berquist
Honorary Consul for the Republic of Croatia for Texas 18 | Mv | November + December 2023
I
n September, I was in Washington, DC, and I had a Sunday evening flight on Southwest Airlines back to Houston. I was packing my things at the hotel to check out at noon when my wife, Lisa, called to inform me that my flight had been cancelled. Luckily, she secured my same hotel room for another night. My flight had been rescheduled for the next day, Monday, to Atlanta with a connection to Houston. Now, what to do on a Sunday afternoon in our nation’s capital? One option was to see the Dodgers play the Nationals. It is always fun to see a ball park for the first time but the weather report was not very encouraging so I eliminated that. Having already visited most of the government buildings, concert halls, museums, etc., I suddenly felt an urge to find some bars that I had not been to and immediately got on the Internet and came up with a plan. I figured that each of these places had stories to tell, perhaps even lies, as can often be the case, especially in old bars in old cities. It was a free afternoon so what the heck! My first was going to be Martin’s Tavern in Georgetown. Written up as the “oldest bar in DC” it looked promising. Other places included The Dubliner on F Street, known for its immense selection of beers, a place named the Jack Rose on 18th Street, itself known for its considerable whiskey selections. These three establishments would be new to me. The last time I was in town I found an unusual place, Shelly’s Backroom, a smoking bar and restaurant near the White House. I decided to return. Another classic bar that I had been to some 40+ years ago was Clyde’s in Georgetown. This was to be for a cheeseburger dinner. So, “drop the red bandana and let the games begin!” It was just a little past noon as I entered Martin’s and had to go to the end of the extensive bar to find the only single seat available. There was a man on my right quietly drinking and two men on my left who were drinking but
far from quietly. The man immediately to my left was certainly in no condition to drive, much less keep his head above the bar (remember, it was just minutes past noon on a Sunday). Next to him was a man who I will simply refer to as Mr Brahms. Full head of grayish white hair and a huge white beard, the more gregarious of the two, actually not too difficult to accomplish since the man on my left was definitely in peril. Then the stories began. Mr Brahms explained that he had been assaulted in Los Angeles a couple of years ago and had survived a stabbing. He had particularly nasty cuts on his upper and lower lips that were now covered by his moustache and beard. Now that is a good opener. The man on my right asked for his check and proceeded to tell me in a somewhat hushed voice that Martin’s used to be a favorite drinking joint of both John F Kennedy and Richard Nixon in the 1950’s. He also, touching my arm and lowering his voice even more to a somewhat personal and, shall I say, reverent tone, said, “that booth over there was where JFK proposed to Jackie.” Now THAT was impressive. “Not necessarily so,” protested Mr Brahms. “Urban legend!” he barked. Wow, this was getting interesting. Mr Brahms then went on to tell me that his father had received his draft notice in 1954 right there at the bar! The tales were now in full force. I tend to believe people so it sounded genuine to me but I was left pondering the JFK/Jackie booth story. Upon later looking up Martin’s on the indisputably historical Internet site of authenticity, Wikipedia, I found that every president from Truman to W had been in Martin’s. It probably needs an update. It also stated that on June 24, 1953, one US Representative John Fitzgerald Kennedy proposed to one Jacqueline Lee Bouvier. So there, Mr Brahms! As to Martin’s Tavern being the oldest bar in DC, if you look at the small print, it is the oldest family-owned restaurant in DC, founded 90 years ago in 1933 by a former baseball player for the Boston Braves, William Gloyd Mar-
Booth #3 ‘The Proposal Booth’
“After the senator proposed and she accepted the news ran through the restaurant …In hindsight it was great fun to witness a part of history.” — Ambassador Marion “Joe” Smoak, regarding Senator John F. Kennedy’s proposal to Miss Jacqueline Lee Bouvier on Wednesday, June 24, 1953 at Martin’s Tavern
Mr. Brahms November + December 2023 | Mv | 19
Old Ebbitt Grill’s urban legend has it that the animal heads above the bar were all shot by Teddy Roosevelt
Shelly’s Backroom At Clyde’s, Tom and his son, Joey
20 | Mv | November + December 2023
tin, “Billy” Martin, but not the Billy Martin that we are familiar with. I also did some modest research on Billy and found that he played one game on October 6, 1914, when he was 20 years old and was 0 for 3. That was his entire career. His great grandson, yet another Billy Martin, owns the place. Mr Brahms recommended that I should go next to The Old Ebbitt Grill. Lisa and I had been there several years ago and the place had not changed a bit. The bar napkins state “Since 1856” which naturally brings doubt in my mind as to any kind of historical accuracy in this town. There are several animal heads above the massive bar, deer, boars, elk, pheasants, exotic game from Africa, etc. Ebbitt’s own urban legend has it that they were all shot by Teddy Roosevelt - I wonder. The Uber driver who picked me up on my way to my next stop confided to me, again in that low, hushed, “I am telling you a secret” voice that ALL of the plans for the Iraq War were hatched right there at the Ebbitt. Hmmmm. It turns out that Oliver North had meetings there to discuss the Iran/Contra affair of the Reagan years in the 80’s. Who knows? Next was the smoking bar, Shelly’s Backroom. It is still beautifully run by a lovely Vietnamese family. I went to the bar and ordered an IPA and got out an old corn cob pipe and lit it to see if I could get a reaction. I asked the bartender, “I will bet that you don’t see too many corn cob pipes in here.” He blandly responded, “Actually, about twenty minutes ago!” As you can see in the photograph, it is adorned with American flag bunting. I just love such examples of successful immigration in our country. Then it was back to the hotel for some relaxing before Clyde’s for dinner. The Dubliner and Jack Rose would have to wait until the next visit. Arriving at Clyde’s I found a seat at the bar near the door. A couple of gents were next to me, Tom and his son, Joey. I will just say that Tom reminded me of the man next to Mr Brahms at Martin’s if you follow my drift. After sharing some jokes and lines unprintable here, I asked Tom about the oft-told rumor of Clyde’s being a hangout for Cold War and present-day intrigue, spies and, in general, serious espionage. He immediately appeared as sober as a judge, stood up and simply said, “I cannot talk about that!” Without hesitation, he asked for his check. As he and Joey were leaving, however, Tom turned back to me and said, “You should go to Martin’s Tavern - I don’t know if it is true or not, but I heard a rumor that that’s where JFK proposed to Jackie!” A final observation of Washington, D.C. As I entered Reagan National for my flights home, I observed some very loud commotion. There were scores of yellow-shirted folks and probably more wheel-
chairs than I have ever seen. A volunteer group that I had never heard of, Honor Flight Network, was escorting veterans of the Second World War and the Korean War from Minnesota. They arrived after having been flown, free of charge, to take a bus tour of Washington, D.C. including being taken to their respective war memorial sites. Later that afternoon they would be flown back to Minnesota. Honor Flight Network is represented in every state and does this all year long. The next day might be Texas or Michigan or any other state. The crowds in the airport were giving the vets cheers, salutes, high fives. In a word, wonderful. A final, final thought - there were no remarkable vodka martini’s in DC, alas. The search will continue. And to complete the final thought, some readers asked for specific information as to the hotel where I had the perfect vodka martini in Verona, Italy last summer. Here it is -
Honor Flight Network volunteers escort World War II and Korean War veterans
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