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YACHTING: SUNREEF, A PRIVATE BEACH ON WAVES MONACO YACHT SHOW IS BACK! FASHION&DESIGN: 40 YEARS EMPORIO ARMANI NINA YASHAR DIOR CHAIRS&CAKES
Sunreef Yachts | Doki 1, 80-863 Gdansk, Poland | +48 797 842 754 | info@sunreef-yachts.com www.sunreef-yachts.com
FORCE ONE
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"YACHTING SPECIAL" As our loyal readers know, Force One’s editorials always start with a reference to the concept of "changing". Well, this time we don't want to change, this time we want to be as normal as possible, and celebrate the return to life, the most classic, normal and simple as possible. Obviously, our luck is to have a rather broad concept of "normal" ... ;-) In the normality of the Côte d'Azur there is the return of the Cannes and Monaco yacht shows, and for this reason we present many novelties from the most prestigious builders. We are also celebrating a very special birthday: the forty years of Emporio Armani. We celebrate the beauty of objects with an exclusive interview with the lady of design Nina Yashar. And we continue our journey into fashion with an exclusive editorial made for Force One by a photographer capable of combining light, architecture and fashion as few can do: Stefano Facca. This of course is not all ... but I will let you discover it for yourself ... Happy reading!
Special Thanks Truly heartfelt thanks to our stylist Fabio Pravato who keeps on imagining new stories and new scenarios. Fabio, for the maisons de mode is often a nightmare, but he's a real dream partner to us!
Luca Marotta
Publisher and Creative Director
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INDE X
08 - Yachting / READY, SET, MONA-GO! 12 - Yachting / SUNREEF - COCKTAILS AND DREAMS 18 - Yachting / LA BELLE CLASSE 21 - Yachting / NAUTOR'S SWAN - UNVEILING NEW BEAUTIES 23 - Yachting / FERRETTI - FIVE WONDERS 24 - Yachting / PRINCESS - REWRITING THE RULES 26 - Yachting / EVO YACHTS - MULTIDIMENSIONAL BOATS 28 - Fashion / 40 YEARS OF EMPORIO ARMANI 38 - Design / IN THE DREAM ROOM 45 - Desig/Interview / NINA YASHAR 48 - Art / PIETRO CONSAGRA 52 - Design / DIOR - THE MEDAILLON CHAIR 54 - Exhibition / THIERRY MUGLER 58 - Fashion / CHASING THE DREAM 74 - Art / MANOLO VALDÉS 76 - Delicacies / DIOR'S VANILLA DIORAMA 78 - Events / VIVID MONACO 80 - Mobility / STAJVELO 82 - Business / HOUSTON BUSINESS TALKS 83 - Mobility / NEOS AIR 84 - Business / NPD OPPORTUNITIES 87 - Business / MC-CH INVESTMENT FORUM 86 - Pleasure / SHOPPING
Cover Chasing the Dream Facca Photographer Stefano
ies PRADA and gloves, leather derb Superfine wool jumpsuit I LIN Brooch DONATELLA PEL
Creative Director Luca Marotta
Senior Contributor Alice Gardner
Resident Photographer Francesca Cari
Editorial Director Andrea Dini
Editorial Contributors Vicky Morris Manuela Schinaia Keith Francis
Photographers Philippe Fitte Francesco Ferri Stefano Gattini Eva-Stina Kjellman Carlo Borlenghi Alberto Cocchi Andrea Muscatello Francesco Rastrelli Mattia Lotti Mel Yates Enzo Sellerio
Fashion Editor Alberto Corrado Jewelry and Watches Editor Laura Canepa Layout Force One
Styling Fabio Pravato Translations Marsglobus Open to Translation Ltd
Alessandro Garofalo Ken Ngan Tanya Traboulsi Marion Berrin Dario Bologna Alessio Pizzicannella Advertising & Development contact@force-one.net +33 (0)6 40 61 02 05 Post Production Thomas Bourgoin Eric Meozzi
Force One is published by One Force Sarl Monte Carlo SSN 2271-4111 www.force-one.net
all images courtesy © Monaco Yacht Show
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READY, SET, MONA-GO
MONACO YACHT SHOW MAKES ITS RETURN. By Alice Gardner
Even the might of the Monaco Yacht Show couldn’t escape the cancellations of last year. But from global pandemic comes global premieres, as the 30th edition of MYS returns triumphant with a whole host of new superyachts to marvel at in the shimmering waters of Port Hercule. Two years in the making, MYS 2021 is - as ever smarter and better than the last. Rather remarkable after the disruptions of the past 18 months. Yet yachting is and always has been resilient; 2020 ended with 64 new superyacht sales compared to the 54 in the final quarter of 2019. So, what can we expect from this year’s edition of the world’s greatest yacht show?
The yachts For the statisticians: 80 super and megayachts are on show this year, ranging from 22-95 metres (average length: 54m) – including 32 new deliveries that are making their world debut, four of which are 70m+. One of the stars of the show will be Feadship’s 2021 launch, Viva. Coming in at 94m she is the largest new
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build on the MYS 2021 rosta, and one of the most environmentally friendly; engineering nerds will be able to glory at her hybrid propulsion system, a key element requested by her new owner. At an equally impressive 80m, Bilgin Yachts will debut the first in their triumvirate of superyachts - Tatiana - firmly cementing the Turkish builder’s ambitions of joining the world’s elite yacht builders. And Rossinavi will exhibit the largest construction in their history with the 70.2m ice explorer Polaris. Also brand new to Monaco this year is the Sailing Yacht Area on Quai l’Hirondelle, where yachts including Nautor’s Swan’s 36.4m Audry the First will be joined by SES Yacht’s latest launch, the magnificent 39.34m Grace III. The luxury motors The Car Deck makes a welcome return to MYS 2021, showcasing over thirty vintage, customised cars and
bespoke motorbikes, all of which are available to purchase and test-drive at the show. Exhibiting brands include Klassen, Mercedes-Benz Classic, Brabus and DAB Motors and can be found on Quai Antoine Ier by the luxury Tenders & Toys stand. The lifestyle Luxury tableware, furniture and all other objets d’art will be exhibited at the MYS Upper Deck Lounge. Meet the craftsmen and designers behind the luxury yachting lifestyle, and how they are now combining this with business and private aviation. Also exhibiting is the Only Watch collection, featuring watches that are for sale in their upcoming biennial auction on November 6th at Christie’s Monaco, under the patronage of Prince Albert II of Monaco. The sale and exhibition - include one-off luxury timepieces by the finest watch manufacturers, with all proceeds in aid of research into Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy.
10 The Upper Deck Lounge also features the official restaurant and lounge bar. The VIPs And if you’re lucky enough to have a VIP ticket as a member of the Sapphire Experience (or luckier still, as one of the yacht owners), you will gain priority access to car test drives as well as access to the MYS VIP lounge. The speakers The Monaco Yacht Summit is also returning, featuring a panel of experts in yacht building, design, management, charter and purchase. The event is exclusively dedicated to owners and participants with current or future yacht projects.
monacoyachtshow.com
Key talks will focus on new perspectives in yachting trends, the elements of a successful charter, practical steps in yacht building when you’re the owners and the design to delivery process. Hosted at the Yacht Club de Monaco, this year’s summit will be moderated by Martin Hager, editor-inchief of leading German superyacht magazine Boote Exclusiv, and a former naval architect. Speakers include Jonathan Beckett (CEO, Burgess), Rose Damen (MD, Damen/Amels), Charlie Birkett (CEO, Y.CO) and Tim Schommer (Partner, Clyde & Co.). Information and yacht participation correct as of July 2021
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sunreef-yachts.com
COCKTAILS AND DREAMS By Alice Gardner
all images courtesy © Sunreef
Bolstering the soundtrack to 80s hit Cocktail, starring a Hawaiian shirt-clad Tom Cruise, the Beach Boys’ utopic Kokomo island is the place “where you want to go to get away from it all.” Apt name then for Sunreef’s latest custom 80-footer, Kokomo.
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Sunreef describes the yacht as a “private beach”, and it’s not hard to see why. From its extensive deck lounging areas to its sandhued interiors, Kokomo is a floating tropical (not to mention hugely luxurious) beach. Powered by two 1200 HP engines, Sunreef has destined Kokomo to explore both the Mediterranean and Caribbean, hosting up to eight guests in four cabins split into: a master stateroom with king-size bed, sofa, dressing area and ensuite bathroom; one VIP; and two large guest cabins - all spread out over 340sqm of interior space. All four enjoy the same calming neutral décor, featuring linen upholstery and eucalyptus veneers that don’t distract from the ever-changing kaleidoscope of colours outside. This mastery of design was even recognised in the best design category at the DNA Paris Design Awards 2021. The rest of Kokomo’s interior follows suit, with luscious neutral shades creating a warm and welcoming retreat in the main deck saloon, seamlessly flowing from the exterior. Large windows bathe the interior lounging space in light, while the portside custom-made galley features a kitchen island and 55” TV that makes a perfect spot to serve drinks (or, watch them being served by your very own Tom Cruise). There are further interior lounging areas towards the bow, with a smaller saloon featuring a dining space that can seat eight, and a large L-shaped sofa to retire to after dinner.
15 Afternoon delight, cocktails and moonlit nights... Kokomo The Beach Boys (1988)
Feeling much larger than her 80-foot LOA, Kokomo’s exterior space is truly outstanding. The aft cockpit benefits from a generous beam that only a multihull can offer, where the large and centrally positioned sofa is ideal for watching the passing waves - until you’re ready to leap into them from the hydraulic swim platform. Beneath this is the garage and storage for Kokomo’s water toys, jet skis and refueling station. This area also boasts a large al fresco dining area, enticing daybed (not to be confused with the day head, also on this deck) and separate access to the crew quarters. Yet the ultimate beach club experience is felt up on the flybridge, Kokomo’s very own Nikki Beach. With its open layout and multiple seating and lounging areas there’s even a retractable glass sunroof for added pizzazz. The open layout of the flybridge also gives home to the wet bar, barbecue and secondary dining area, an idyllic spot for a few sundowners. A follow up to their hugely successful 80 Sail, Sunreef has really hit the luxury nail on the luxury head with this 80 Sunreef Power catamaran. Now if you want to go and get away from it all, go down to Kokomo.
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FERNANDO goes POWER ECO!
Alonso is not the first F1 Champion involved with Sunreef, Nico Rosberg is the brand ambassador.
Two-time Formula One World Champion Fernando Alonso commissions a custom 60 Sunreef Power Eco catamaran with Sunreef Yachts. The build contract was signed on September 1st at the Yacht Club de Monaco by Fernando Alonso and Sunreef Yachts’ Founder and President Francis Lapp. Combining avant-gardist green tech and sustainable design, the Sunreef Yachts Eco range offers the industry’s most advanced solutions for a responsible cruising experience, including ultramodern, energyefficient electric motoryachts.
Fernando is clearly excited by his choice: “Sunreef Yachts’ ability to combine quality and technology is impressive. I have been observing the evolution of this brand for a while and I appreciate their commitment to push innovation forward with the Sunreef Yachts Eco range. I’m excited to embark on this project as I know the 60 Sunreef Power Eco represents everything I am looking for: top engineering, amazing know-how and an amazing ecofriendly product.”
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LA BELLE CLASSE !
THE GOLDEN AGE OF YACHTING AT THE 15TH MONACO CLASSIC WEEK
Monaco Classic Week is not just a regatta. It’s a voyage through time and the history of yachting which combines sport and a certain ‘Art de Vivre’ common to classic sailing yachts, period motor-yachts and vintage motorboats. It combines races as a way to showcase the authenticity of sailing yachts along with the coveted "La Belle Classe" Restoration Prize.
After the rigours of Friday’s race to Cala del Forte marina and back, Saturday was about what inspires the yachting soul: The Elegance Contest again challenged an elitist jury called into judge the style, class and harmony of crews and their boats. Sailing yachts, motorboats and motoryachts paraded past the jury on Lucciana Jetty, the crews digging deep into their imaginations to harmonise their uniforms and gestures to suit their boat’s stature. On the Mediterranean classic yacht circuit, Monaco Classic Week stands out as the only one to bring together an exclusive range of classic sailing and motor yachts. Around 30 owners responded to the invitation, including three of the 15M IR yachts. In their wake, were a dozen period motor-yachts and some 30 vintage motorboats including ten Rivas, outdoing each other in finesse while seven others, including three American Chris Crafts vied for supremacy in the elegance of their lines.
© francesco Ferri
The La Belle Classe Restoration Prize recognises the quality of the restoration of boats that are often over a hundred years old. For this fifth edition, the Jury chaired by Sir Robin Knox-Johnston has spent the week inspecting all the boats. The scoring takes into account respect for the original plans, materials used in the construction and the expertise in restoration. The big winner this week is the Fife-design Bermudan yawl Mariella (1938) of Carlo Falcone. Also on the receiving end of awards for the quality of their restoration are Iran in the vintage motorboats, Blue Bird 1938 in the motor-yachts and the gaff cutter Olympian (Gardner 1913).
© Stefano Gattini
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Manufacture for Lifestyle
SHOWROOMS:
MUNICH · BREMEN · LORIENT · PALMA · ATHENS · VIAREGGIO · XIAMEN
SPIRIT OF THE OCEAN GMBH · +49-(0)89-8 99 61 90
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CREWWEAR@MARINEPOOL.COM
nautorswan.com
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BEAUTIES
© Eva-Stina Kjellman
UNVEILING NEW
Nautor’s Swan is confirming its leadership in the sailing yachts market from 10 to 40+ metres, with the launch of new products throughout its three divisions. Giovanni Pomati, Nautor Group CEO, is obviously very excited about the expansion of their range: “The continuous search for new and advanced solutions to build performance, elegant and comfortable yachts is influenced by the love for sailing and the sensations it gives”. The Swan line, the Maxi Swans and the ClubSwan racing yachts will now be joined by Swan Shadow motor yacht. The Shadow was born from the passion that Leonardo Ferragamo, the President of the group, has for the marine world: “For so many years we’ve been thinking about launching a power boat, but we always resisted this temptation until we really felt we had something really special and unique to present”. The Swan Shadow is broadening the range of vessels the Finnish yard offers to its customers, perfectly aligned with the core elements of its brand DNA: Performance, Quality, Elegance. The new 30-metre Swan 98 will redefine high performance cruising by delivering unrivalled comfort, safety, reliability and speed. Within its graceful hull is an interior designed by acclaimed Genovese architect Misa Poggi. There are two interior layouts available (Owner Aft and Owner Forward staterooms plus 3 guest cabins each with ensuite bathroom). The standard Swan 98 has a comprehensive specification but there is an extensive list of options that means no two Swan 98s will be the same, chief among these is the option of a telescopic keel, which, together with the standard twin rudders, reduces draught from 4.9 to 3.2 metres, opening up a world of shoal-draft lagoons, colourful harbours and remote, unspoiled anchorages. The Swan 98 is a 21st Century superyacht, representing the best in contemporary performance cruising yacht design.
© Carlo Borlenghi
Nautor’s Swan was very busy at this year’s Cannes Yacht Show as they unveiled not one, not two but three great new yachts: the Swan 58, Swan 98 and Swan Shadow. It’s a big step for the company as they are entering the world of power yachts for the first time.
BOUTIQUE: AVENIDA DA LIBERDADE, 247A, LISBON
WWW.TERZIHAN.COM
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CAIRO RING W/WHITE AGATE
ISTANBUL, 1974
© Alber to Cocchi
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THE FIVE WONDERS OF
ferrettigroup.com
FERRETTI GROUP In the enchanting setting of the Côte d'Azur, five fantastic boats from the Ferretti Group made their world debut, bringing together style and design, comfort and liveability, technological innovation and performance: the Riva 68' Diable, Riva 76' Perseo Super, Pershing 6X, the Wally WHY200 and the majestic Ferretti Yachts 1000, the largest model ever built by the Shipyard. The Riva 68' Diable is an open yacht with the highest concentration of sportiness, innovation and liveability, incorporating exciting technological and design innovations. The Riva 76 Perseo Super features over 40 square metres of glass surfaces on the hull and in the superstructure characterise her sleek profile, enhancing the sporty look of the exterior lines. The Pershing 6S is the new entry of the X generation and it expresses the boldest and most daring side of the brand. The Wally WHY200 is the first Wally Hybrid Yacht, optimised to sail in both displacement and semi-displacement trim. The Yachts 1000, the largest vessel ever built by the shipyard, is made of composite materials, with carbon parts that enhance the hi-tech content. The spaces have been remodelled and this has changed the way of living in the boat. There are new design solutions and an interior mood in a Classic style, with soft, harmonious tones and light contrasts, and in a Contemporary style, with fresh tones and bolder colours. Five world debuts at one show … Ferretti Group really is going strong.
princessyachts.com
REWRITING
THE RULES Proving that rules don’t apply to royalty, Princess has rewritten the rules of yacht design with the X95. Their latest yacht, the first of the brand’s new X class, is built for a life at sea. At the core of the X95 is a unique concept for the flybridge and main deck interior space, both of which cover almost the full length of the yacht, creating the Super Flybridge – the X Class’s defining characteristic. The layout provides 10% more outdoor space and 40% more indoor space than a traditional motor yacht. This leap forward in space and versatility mirrors recent innovations from luxury automotive brands that have developed crossover models. Life on an X95 is unlike that on any other boat its size. It is built for those who wish to spend significant time aboard to explore cruising grounds further afield. On boarding the boat via the large teak-laid transom deck platform at the stern, a pair of distinctive stairways immediately lead up to a huge cockpit, before the entrance to the main deck saloon begins the jaw-dropping experience of life aboard the first ever Princess X Class. Working together with Olesinski and Pininfarina, Princess has created a striking new design for the seas that embraces the revolutionary architecture of X95. Pooling such a rare depth and breadth of experience in design, Princess and its partners have delivered a unique yacht that is immediately identifiable as a Princess and yet is instantly appreciated as something ground-breaking on the water.
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biyacht.it
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MULTIDIMENTIONAL BOATS FOR UNEQUALLED YACHTING PLEASURE By Vicky McCreery Evo V8 has arrived! It’s the first in the shipyard’s new V line and its layout is fully customisable. It may have refined and understated lines but it hides a multitude of brilliant design solutions and advanced technology features on board.
The yacht is inspired by the challenge Blue Emme Yachts and designer Valerio Rivellini set themselves: to combine all the best from the worlds of both sailing and motor yachts in order to offer a brand new and unique on board experience, based on opportunities for socializing and relaxation, even when cruising at high speed. The chameleon-like design means the yacht can transform within moments to adapt to your lifestyle, and the innovative technology ensures the guests’ enjoyment and wellbeing. We spoke to Roberto Gremese from Biyacht, the official Evo dealer for NorthWestern Italy and Switzerlan, who is obviously very excited about this new model: “The arrival of the new Evo V8 is fantastic news for us as it completes our range which already features the R4 and R6 models. It comes at a perfect time, as our other big news is that we are now the exclusive dealer for the brand in the Balkans too. The Evos are ideal for Mediterranean and Adriatic yachting”. The Evo R4 and R6 are two highly popular Evo models: The R4 is a 13-metre walkaround with multiple innovative features including the standout custom platform in the bow that adds a metre to the boat’s length. The R6 is one of the few 18-metre models on the market that successfully combines spacious, liveable and fully appointed exteriors with generous
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© Andrea Muscatello
EVO YACHTS
and comfortable interiors. As with all Evo yachts the interior layout can be fully customised.
boat shows, a yachting firm that perfectly combines nautical engineering and smarts design.
BiYacht is the exclusive dealer of Evo Yachts for Piedmont, Liguria, Valle d’Aosta, Lombardy and Switzerland, based in the picturesque setting of Marina degli Aregai, near the Italian province of Imperia. Luxury, design and technology are the key words that guide their choices , together with the care and attention they provide to their customers to offer personalised solutions that will satisfy your every need. Evo is one of the most anticipated brands at
They base their designs on five pillars: dreams, geometry, brains, dust and balance... now you know what makes a unique, extraordinary and beautiful yacht! For more information: Biyacht - via Giovanni Cozzi, 1 Marina degli Aregai - Imperia (SV) - Italy g.roberto@biyacht.it - +39 335 617 0012
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No designer had ever thought of making jeans, and I was highly criticized for this choice. The public and the time, on the other hand, have proved me right."
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Giorgio Armani © Jean-Marie Périer for "Designers's World" in Elle Magazine n°2681 - May 1997
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EA Boarding 2018
EMPORIO ARMANI FORTY YEARS OF STYLE
FASHION DEMOCRACY By Alberto Corrado
Giorgio Armani celebrates the first forty years of the brand with an anthology manifesto exhibition at Armani /Silos, where that aesthetic language created in the 1980’s is always current. Traditional beauty analysed, questioned, inverted and subverted in an intentional act of estrangement that forces us to reconsider what we think we know. These words become the mantra of the exhibition “The Way We Are”, curated personally by Giorgio Armani on the occasion of the fortieth anniversary of Emporio Armani. Verbal compasses as a guide to a cultural aesthetic methodology that began in 1981 with a very specific program: fashion for all with the Armani imprint. "At the start of the 80’s I realized I could potentially address a very large audience, not like with my prêt-à-porter" Armani explains. "I had the idea of offering an easy, accessible product to a younger market. At the time, denim was the central theme of the offer. No designer had ever thought of making jeans. I was highly criticized for this choice, considered risky by some. The public and the time, on the other hand, have proved me right." Over the years it has evolved into a container brand, where everyone can find what they want and use it the way they want. It’s a sort of metropolitan version of a young line, young here being understood as in the mental sense rather than the physical. An underlying theme that has permeated Giorgio Armani's thoughts and career right from the word go, just like the eagle logo with body split into horizontal stripes containing the designer's initials. “It came about by chance. I still remember the moment I designed it, while I was on the phone responding to my partner Sergio Galeotti’s urgency to design a logo" explains Armani
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Spring Summer 1985 © Aldo Fallai
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Fall Winter 1985 © Aldo Fallai
Fall Winter 1990 © Aldo Fallai
“I did the sketch without thinking too much, but that symbol of unreachability took my name to the Olympus of the young market. I never thought that a sketch, so hurriedly done, could become such a powerful symbol." His was, and still is a vision that comprehends and surpasses not only different times and eras, but the concepts, judgments and prejudices fashion design is so often plagued with as well. In the ongoing re-creation of perfect tailoring or technical sportswear, Emporio has no boundaries in time and space, but rather contains everything, for everyone, for all times, without schemes. “Emporio has no schemes. Emporio is all this, in the name of the eagle. It’s here, now, immediate, today in every way" comments Armani "It’s me, you, all of you the same because you’re all different. Free. It’s concreteness and imagination. It's EA”. This kind of expression was a practice well ahead of its time, and developed into an experimental line, able to grasp new trends and propose fashion both attractive and seductive. Indeed, this practise, this method, can only reverberate in an across-the-board, dynamic declination of style, where research and freedom are elements of a wardrobe made up of garments, bags, eyewear, shoes and jewellery.
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Fall Winter 2018 © Solve Sundbo
Fall Winter 2021 © Brett Lloyd
Each of the above elements is a tile of a socio-artistic mosaic that, season after season, redesigns the figures of men and women in a representation of contemporaneity. And in the dialectic between form and function, Emporio Armani's research seeks to reconcile meaning and practicality. Just as in the new Fall Winter FW 2021-2022 collection aimed at subverting the grammar of fashion, the harmony of forms and casual elegance are declined in pop atmospheres, in an ongoing 80’s dialogue of mirrors and identical attitudes between man and woman. A perfect synthesis that’s developed from the spirit of what has been. The central element is precisely that, the spirit, and this celebratory exhibition renders it tangible, practicable, offering it in every sense, mixing meaningful garments and accessories with the unique imagery and iconography created over the years. The spaces of the Silos are invaded by gigantic blow-ups, because the monumental dimension has always been key to communication, the cells are lined with mood-boards, videos, clothes, and the visitors are part of it, crossing the space, exploring it, seeing it materialise through the objects, photos, videos and emotions in every room.
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Fall Winter 2021 © Aldo Fallai
...under my clothes there is a man who is not uncomfortable if he discovers a crease, an imperfection... my clothes do not require tests and measurements, they are just worn!
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Fall Winter 2021 © Max Vadukul
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All images Fall Winter 2021-2022
Emporio Armani Magazine Special Edition
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The Emporio Armani Magazine is directed by Rosanna Armani along with Christoph Radl as graphic designer, Kazunori Iwaka as editor at large, and Antonio Moscogiuri, editor and director of CAP 74024, as creative consultant. A special edition is planned for Emporio Armani’s fortieth anniversary, with a photo of the planet Mars on the cover, and the words, like the title of the exhibition “The Way We Are”, announcing the content. The central theme is living the moment, but to fully experience the moment, it’s essential to know what has been, where Giusi Ferrè's story becomes the cornerstone of the project of the six photographers, Aldo Fallai, Max Vadukul, Julia Hetta, Nico Bustos, Matthew Brookes and Brett Llyod, interpreting the Emporio F/W 2021-2022 collection. Six projects, in colour and in black and white, introduced by six short and effective stories by film critic Mariarosa Mancuso. The 40th anniversary Emporio Armani Magazine will be in English with translations into Italian and Chinese. Distributed in the best international news outlets, it will also be on sale at Armani/Silos and Armani/Books, as well as at Emporio Armani stores the world over and online at www.armani.com from September 21st. On the occasion of the magazine release, a book will also be published bringing together the photographs taken by Angelo Mereu: the black and white documentation of all the murals in via Broletto from 1984 to the present day. The book will be available exclusively from Armani/Silos and Armani/BooksLibri.
© Mattia Lotti
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NILUFAR DEPOT
IN THE DREAMROOM By Alberto Corrado
© Mel Yates
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When imagining the future, fantasy is more powerful than knowledge. Nina Yashar does it in the name of a chorus-line of excellent soloists. This year the research into the aesthetics of living pursued by Nilufar is like a process assimilated and matured in a period of resilience. Driving it is Nina Yashar, who founded the Nilufar Gallery in Milan in 1979. Fired by the passion and fascination for antique carpets inherited from her Iranian parents, she has staged pioneering exhibitions like "The rose in the carpet", an iconographic study of the rose motif, and at the same time brought international attention to carpets both oriental and European, like Kilim, Gabbeh and Aubusson, spent the nineties adventuring into the world of modern and contemporary furniture, and exhibiting the works of the Masters of almost half a century. Alongside unique rugs, avant-garde furniture and sculpture-pieces by emerging designers, she introduced the recurring theme of juxtaposition of furnishings and rugs, strengthening Nilufar's reputation as reference point for lovers of vintage and contemporary design. Her work and research have brought names like Gaetano Pesce to light, with his silicon carpets, enhanced the works of Paul Evans and the performances of Martino Gamper, not to mention the monographic catalogues she has produced that over the years have acquired cult status among collectors and design enthusiasts. This company philosophy has always reflected in her search for space to exhibit new projects, from the Depot Gallery to the Nilufar Gallery@Alcova. In 2015, Nina Yashar opened Nilufar Depot at 34, viale Lancetti, Milan, in a building that once housed a silverware factory: a
©
space of 1500 square meters over three levels with layout inspired on Milan’s celebrated Scala Theatre, hosting part of Yashar's vast design collection, in an atmosphere that finds a harmonious link between contemporary design and iconic pieces of historical design. Over the Milan Design Week 2018 Nina’s expansive nature led her to realise another dream she’d been nurturing for some time, inaugurating a social space on the first floor of the Gallery. With interior design by India Mahdavi, this launched the first episode of “Chez Nina”. Now after 42 years, the underlying theme characterising Nilufar's proposals known the world over is still the dream, allencompassing creative research, the desire to introduce experiment into serialization, and invest in new talents, solutions, technologies, and materials. With an eye not only to the best in Italian design, but open to discovering all kinds of other cultures, because eclecticism is the quintessence of Nina Yashar's philosophy, launched like a probe into the universe to record aesthetic movements, offering a rich palette of colours where everyone finds their perfect environment. Without ever neglecting the classics. As she says herself, “Design Week 2021 is very dear to me: it marks a new beginning, a way we can finally meet after all this time and talk about trends, new discoveries and new ways of working together. This whole time has given us space to reflect deeper on our work, researching projects along with the designers." Far from the mainstream of what isn’t really design but art in itself, the collections presented for this edition give Nilufar a central space able of represent and enhance the entirety of the expressions in a coordinated exhibition project. In short, building a network that systematizes the whole and gives everything adequate representation.
▲ Bethan Laura Wood
▲ Analogia Project
▼ Khaled El Mays
▼ Federica Perazzoli
A space where new ideas on design and the most innovative languages are born and spread. With respect to most of the spaces dedicated to design scattered around the world, Nilufar's has one significant difference, which is also the mark of its specific identity: it doesn’t work on quantity, but on enhancing the individual design, as search, discovered and loved by Nina Yashar. With this in mind, visitors to the Nilufar Depot are transported through 30 installations, where classic design icons challenge each other in new creative territories: from Odyssey, the first solo exhibition by Andrés Reisinger in Italy, where the designer narrates the connection between the digital and real worlds through the dialogue between furniture and NFT, to Jungle, the solo exhibition by Khaled El Mays, with site-specific interventions by Federica Perazzoli; the unique Sun Ra lamps, the final project of the late designer Nanda Vigo realised in collaboration with JCP Universe and the selection of furnishings by Italian-born Brazilian designer Lina Bo Bardi, awarded the ‘Leone d’Oro’ at the Venice Biennale 17th International Architecture Exhibition. With its aura of uniqueness, the historic gallery in via della Spiga introduces visitors to a contemplative aesthetic fruition of objects: from the Ornate exhibition celebrating the first 10 years of collaboration between Nina Yashar and Bethan Laura Wood juxtaposing the new collection of mirrors, lights and cabinets with iconic pieces made exclusively for Nilufar over the years, to the Some Vibrant Things exhibition by Audrey Lange, curated by Studio Vedét, the new Arcoiris series by Project analogy and the first projects for Nilufar by Filippo Carandini.
▲ Nanda Vigo
▲ Filippo Carandini
▼ Andrés Reisinger
▼ Audrey Large
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Not least in order of importance, Nilufar Gallery@Alcova also hosted the exhibition section of the FAR project, curated by Studio Vedét, exhibiting unique pieces by international designers: from Objects of Common Interest by Simon Ballen, to Odd Matter by Older and Carlo Lorenzetti to name but a few. If it is true that space speaks directly from the threshold that separates and connects it with the world, Nilufar immediately speaks two words: relativity and vertigo, as it transports visitors to the suspended bridge connecting to the dream.
NINA YASHAR
THE REASON FOR A CHOICE All images © Mattia Lotti
By Alberto Corrado
Poised between art and design, but between different cultures as well, intersecting to breathe life into a new concept of style, Nina Yashar is a patron of beauty celebrating new talent on the international art scene. In Nina Yashar’s hands, the specific language of each individual object transforms into a blazing arrow in the firmament of design. Her mind confronts different personalities, creating synergies that wander between epochs and geographies, in works conceived to be unique on both the Italian and international scene. We met this priestess of beauty in her own space, the Nilufar Depot, to get an insight into a life dedicated to architecture and design. F1M From 1979 - 2020, almost five decades of research in the field of design. How do you see the balance now? NY The balance is certainly very positive. In the gallery we’ve worked with more than 50 different artists and designers, produced extraordinary exhibitions and found emerging artists who’ve since become established themselves on the market. It’s an ongoing process I hope will continue for a long time to come. F1M Various architects and designers came together for the first Nilufar exhibition dedicated to Pietro Consagra. Was this perhaps to do with the typological value of the architectural design, or a more specific choice for the exhibition. NY The architectural design of the Depot, by Massimiliano Locatelli, is strong and rigorous but flexible at the same time: it can accommodate different exhibitions and different types of objects, embracing the various languages of art and design and enhancing them. This is where precisely the strength of the space lies, expressive and welcoming at the same time, enhancing without imposing itself, and always managing to create a dialogue between the various objects on display. For the Matacubi exhibition in particular, created in collaboration with the Pietro Consagra Archive and installed by Ruggero Moncada di Paternò, the objects are arranged to create a nucleus of works with rounded, sensual forms, laid out so as to attract two or three people to sit and establish a playful, direct and immediate involvement with the exhibits. This is also why we left ample breathing space between the objects, so visitors can experience the fullness and emptiness freely within the space.
All images © Mattia Lotti
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F1M The concepts of history and memory make a decisive return in your choice of objects. How do these values become operational references for you in the design process? NY That’s an interesting question, I personally find that it’s impossible to create a project in the present without giving due consideration to the past and its references. I like to place objects and furnishings based on their aesthetic lines, I’m a scholar of beauty, so I give great credence to my design instinct. Then again, there are relations between certain production techniques and materials that can enhance furnishings extremely different to each other, in a totally spontaneous way. My choice of design path always comes from a researched analysis of extremes. The extremes can be different periods, past, present and future for example, and the result I look for is always close to timelessness. A great example of this is the Matacubi display at the entrance to the Depot, which is an expression of the past with a reference absolutely to the future in Odyssey by Andres Reisinger. I love taking seemingly impossible conversations to the extreme. F1M When it comes to architecture and design, we always stress that these disciplines are primarily at the service of man to better shape the spaces of our life. This humanistic and even psychological nature is also linked to our need for beauty. How do these elements become guiding factors in the development of a design for Nilufar? NY I think this question is very much linked with the previous one, in a certain sense I’m looking for the harmony between the objects able to satisfy the eye and make the space welcoming, but that completes the characteristics of certain objects at the same time. I like to relate furnishings, colours and materials from different worlds; like casual encounters that create unexpected surprises in the ongoing dialogue between beauty and function. F1M In the city of the new millennium, can the value of the home-as-refuge, from the world and in the world, and the quality of its furnishings and interiors, still be identified as values recording the changes in our continuity? NY I believe that now, even more than a few years ago, the value of home as a refuge has taken on a strong character. We’ve experienced the domestic space in a very intimate way, and demanded much more from that space, and that’s why we have to treat our environments with even more care and equip them with furnishings that make us feel safe and pampered in our world. This is always the case for a connoisseur of design, and I find it interesting how this need is shared by an increasingly wider public. Most people used to see design just as the final touch for a space, an embellishment, but now I’m seeing an increasing trend towards investigating its history and origins, as if people now want to go deeper and increase their knowledge of the design world.
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PIETRO CONSAGRA
THE FREE RAPPORT OF ART By Alberto Corrado Nina Yashar gives us a better insight into Pietro Consagra through his Matacubi, works that give sculpture a new twofold valence, removing it from convention and establishing a new rapport between ambient and vision of space. Like a guiding thread against the light, the clear reference to a solid tradition as traced by one of the most prestigious exponents of international abstractionism, Pietro Consagra (19202005), accompanies the first exhibition at the Nilufar Depot space in Viale Lancetti 34 in Milan, curated by Nina Yashar together with Luca Massimo Barbero in collaboration with the Pietro Consagra Archive, and with a display installation by Ruggero Moncada di Paternò. A vernissage open to interpretation in its various declinations, where the Matacubi, which in Sicilian dialect refers to very compact, often bulky objects, take on an extraordinary wealth of sophisticated contemporaneity in an almost secret, "hard" dialogue the artist himself defined "frontal and direct with the 'observer, both for how the forms develop and for their expressive interdependence”. A twofold soul that attracts on one hand for its sculptural form, and on the other, off the pedestal it becomes a seat, to touch and experience; an extraordinary dual function of sculpture and potentially usable object. To better understand this we have to understand the concept of frontality, one of the most radical linguistic and artistic innovations of the twentieth century, and characteristic of Consagra's entire artistic career. We have to start out from his visual language and his equally intense writing, through which the artist gave a significant turn both to his work and to the history of art. The programmatic terms of his work come from his roots in Mazara del Vallo, in a context of such poverty that lead him to start out as a portrait artist and work with clay.
Pietro Consagra at Sicilmarmi in Castellammare (1972) Photo © Enzo Sellerio
“Drawing forced me to see what state of attention and synthesis (…) what kind of judgment I get on things” he liked to say to his interviewers.
"Frontality grew in me as an alternative to the totem, that is, sculpture conceived as the centrepiece of an ideal space", he stated in 1952 explaining the theory behind this vision "I perceived frontality as a rescaling of the pretensions accumulated around sculpture: religious pretensions, social pretensions, both past and future; I wanted to release sculpture from all this symbolic pretence and create a more direct, frontal, face to face, relationship with the observer" His transition to architecture was initially inspired by his thoughts on ethics following his trip to America. It was natural, and in conceptual continuity with his previous works. His was already an architectonic sculpture, understood as construction in relation to people and space. This exhibition of the " Matacubi" really brings to light this inner voyage of the artist, where the development and enrichment of the vocabulary of form, continually putting the purposes and key concepts of his creative practise to the test, become the gestures of a creative act. Frontality, fearsome in our universe, transformed into a new rapport between object and space, between sculpture and ambient, involving the observer, is the fulcrum of Consagra's work and of a self-regulatory practice that comes only from authentic inner necessity, "the experience within oneself".
© all photos courtesy by Nilufar
His intelligence and poetic sensibility for life led him to travel first to Palermo, then to Rome, Paris, Venice, New York and even Milan. In this immersion into the contemporary cultural context he met Renato Guttuso, who introduced him to the intellectuals and artists of his time. In Paris he encountered the abstract sculpture of Brâncuși and the Cubism of Picasso. He discovered "sculpture as construction" (as Francesco Poli defined it) which, starting from the pictorial problems linked to the development of Cubist language, has a predilection for frontalism. His new idea of sculpture tended to abandon traditional materials for industrial, ‘poor’ ones. Consagra developed his own original language, affirming it through the frontal sculptures presented at the Venice Biennials, and “the Colloqui” that involves the observer in direct dialogue, both in the form and the title.
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DIOR MEDAILLON CHAIR THE ICON IS TRANSFORMED TO BECOME A WORK OF ART
© Alessandro Garofalo
By Alberto Corrado
Seventeen artists and designers reinterpret the medallion chair, emblem of the Maison, according to their own artistic vision and sensitivity. Seeing the design in that essential chair with its oval back surmounted by a frontage bow, you cannot but think of the sober, simple and above all classic Parisian style of Monsieur Christian Dior. The Medallion chair, a symbol of Louis XVI style, was chosen by Monsieur Dior to furnish his fashion house, and became one of the principal style codes of 30 avenue Montagne, and later of his stores, just like in the first boutique inaugurated in 1947 by the man himself. The medallion chairs elegantly clad in cannage and toile de jouy soon became a symbol of elegance associated with the Maison, to the point of punctuating the bottles and coffrets of his legendary perfumes in pink, gold or grey, from Diorama to Diorissimo. Now seventeen great artists and designers famous all over the world have reinterpreted the iconic chair according to their vision and artistic sensibility, exhibiting them in Palazzo Citterio in Milan, where the modern art collection of the Pinacoteca di Brera is soon to be installed.
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Ma Yansong ©Ken Ngan
An unprecedented, pluralist collaboration that brings together artists of the calibre of Sam Baron, Nacho Carbonell, Pierre Charpin, Dimorestudio, Khaled El Mays, Martino Gamper, Constance Guisset, India Mahdavi, a Nendo, Joy de Rohan Chabot, Linde Freya Tangelder, Atang Tshikare, Seungjin Yang, Ma Yansong, Jinyeong Yeon, Tokujin Yoshioka and Pierre Yovanovitch, to conceive this object of desire with their limitless creativity. Each one of them has redesigned the chair in their own particular way: Sam Baron imagined it as a crossroads of cultures by transposing its unmistakable oval silhouette into indoor and outdoor versions, including a swing and double rocking chair, while Ma Yansong shifts the iconic lines of the design into the future, in a 3D polyurethane version renamed “Meteora”, typical of Ma's artistic and architectural ethos.
Khaled El Mays ©Tanya Traboulsi
India Mahdavi, the Iranian-born French architect covered the chair with some of her famous crochet patterns, but didn’t move too far the original form, while the Japanese collective Nnendo made it minimal and that unmistakable oval inevitably became a transparent hole. Tokujin Yoshioka likewise played on transparency, while Constance Guisset made it foldable and Joy de Rohan made a sculpture out of it. An exhibition that leads us to reflect on and imagine even our own interpretation of the medallion chair, because we need to preserve the history of fashion, not relegate it just to museums or books.
India Mahdavi ©Marion
Berrin
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Yasmin Le Bon, London 1997 'La Chimère' collection Haute couture fall/winter 1997-1998
THIERRY MUGLER
COUTURISSIME An exhibition in Paris dedicated to this French designer and photographer offers an immersive insight that delves into our rapport with the primeval world of fashion and creativity.
© Alan Strutt
By Alberto Corrado
55 almost five decades, etymological and intertwining where couture silhouettes meet with stage costumes, called to compose the story of those fragments of fashion that go beyond the reductive and unfortunate definition of fashion, to become visual testimony of a visionary artist.
“Thierry Mugler, Couturissime” is the name of the exhibition dedicated to Monsieur Mugler, stylist, photographer and creator of the eponymous fashion house, which opened at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris on the 30th of September and scheduled to run until 24 April 2022.
As we can see in the unpublished films and archives from 1973 to 2014 accompanying the exhibition, Mugler gives the bold and innovative image back to fashion, where materials and colours create silhouettes of remarkable potency so often acclaimed as the embodiment of the 80’s through the primordial lens and solemnity of creativity. Staged over two floors of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, it opens on an aquatic theme evoking an eccentric fantasy-inspired world of nature where excesses abound,
Curated by Casey Cadwallader, Mugler's creative director, the exhibition immediately presents itself as space for meditation and ritual: an invitation, suggested by the exhibition’s very layout, to discover the fascinating universe of this creative and his many collaborations in the fields of music and cinema. A career made up of so many curious, unpublished and cultured micro-stories, rich in the historical references of
© Dominique Issermann
© Patrice Stable
ge Michael's video 'Too Funky' Emma Sjöberg, Paris 1992, during Geor g/summer 1997 sprin , ction Colle boys' Cow'Les
Jerry Hall - 'Les Insectes' Haute couture spring/summer 1997
e
© Patrice Stable
© The Helmut Newton Estat
© Patrice Stable
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▲ 'Les Insectes' Collection haute couture spring/summer 1997 Rubber suit, “tire” effect, Collaboration with Abel Villarreal
▲ 'Anniversaire des 20 ans' Collection Haute couture fall/winter 1995-1996
▲ Claudia Lynx, 1995 'Anniversaire des 20 ans' Collection Prêt-à-porter fall/winter 1995-1996 The Helmut Newton Foundation, Berlin
from the ocean’s surface to the depths of the sea, the theme of Science Fiction succeeds the animal and aquatic kingdoms as animated super heroines, industrial design and futuristic automobiles become the new sources of inspiration for the designer. The exhibition is an invitation to reflect on the importance of a dreamlike vision of fashion, centred on the rapport with spirituality and its synonymy with infinity and dream. A rehabilitation of fashion photography as an art form (as
it asserted itself from the late sixties’ onwards replacing the illustrations that once reigned supreme) that opens to the public on the second floor of the museum, where you can admire numerous rare prints signed by artists and the greats of photography including Bourdin, JeanPaul Goude, Karl Lagerfeld, Dominique Issermann, David Lachapelle, Luigi & Iango, Sarah Moon, Pierre et Gilles, Paolo Roversi, Herb Ritts and Ellen von Unwerth, and highlighting the timeless collaboration between Thierry Mugler and photographer Helmut Newton.
THIERRY MUGLER " COUTURISSIME" MAD - Musée des Arts décoratifs - Paris 30th September 2021 - 24th April 2022 madparis.fr
© Luigi & Iango
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▲ Gisele Bündchen, New York 2018 'Superstar Diana Ross' collection Prêt-à-porter spring/summer 1991
CHASING THE DREAM photographer stefano facca
Ostrich feather top STEPHAN JANSON Clutch with jewel closure GEDEBE "Sottosopra" and "Ziggurat" rings, "Four Seasons" rings and earrings AND – SWISS ARCHIJEWELS BY ELEONORA CASTAGNETTA Rare desk and chair C12, floor lamp by Gio Ponti
Pink satin and Marabout coat STEPHAN JANSON Camouflage printed organza dress DAVII Leaf pendant gold ADAIS Leather derbies PRADA Rare desk and chair C12 (on the wallpaper) Vase Metabowl#2 by Audrey Large - The Netherlands, 2019
Green / purple patchwork Mongolian fur coat Short jacket with asymmetrical zip Black techno cady trousers Mary Jane moccasin in black naplack EMPORIO ARMANI Brooch DEMALDÈ Ring SHARRA PAGANO Tridente armchair / P9 by Estúdio de Arte Palma - Brazil, 1948 Jacarandà wood, fabric upholstery by Janet Yonati Low table by Estúdio de Arte Palma - Brazil, 1949‐1951 ca. Bla Bardmattan carpet - Sweden, 1942
Coat in double layer of cavalry wool Belt in light nappa calf Sunglasses BOTTEGA VENETA Earrings "Jardin Secret" Collection FLORILÈGE DE VIE Mirror by Martino Gamper - UK, 2020
Wool sleeveless double breasted coat Nylon color-block hooded parka Silk blend bermuda Epi leather papillon trunk bag Plain calf leather silhouette high boots LOUIS VUITTON Ring and earrings "Pain De Sucre" Collection FLORILÈGE DE VIE Leather Collection, Wall of suitcases by Maarten de Ceulaer - Belgium, 2010
Long printed silk dress with asymmetries and crinoline support ROBERTO CAVALLI Tulle gloves with lace bows DUECCI GUANTI High military boots in calfskin BOTTEGA VENETA "Ellisse" Cuff and "Foglie" Brooch VENDORAFA Chair by Khaled El Mays - Lebanon, 2020 Wallpaper ‘Nel Giardino dell'Eden’ by Federica Perazzoli - Italy, 2021
Viscose dress with fringes Mono earring Beige flannel bag with embroidery FENDI "Paglia" Cuff VENDORAFA Curtain ‘Nel Giardino dell'Eden’ by Federica Perazzoli - Italy, 2021
Dress in plexiglass balls and chains Gold plated brass necklace and bracelets and plexiglass spheres Lace corsetry underwear DOLCE&GABBANA Vintage earrings DEMALDÈ Luminaria’ chandelier by Analogia Project - Italy, 2017 Mirror by Martino Gamper - UK, 2020
Inlaid wool coat Top in stretched viscose Shirt in cotton Wool vest Skirt in crepe couture VALENTINO Rockstud decolletè VALENTINO GARAVANI Necklace DONATELLA PELLINI Casa e Giardino armchair by Gio Ponti - Italy, 1950’s Delicato by Mimmo Rotella - Italy, 1975 Colata di fiori by Mimmo Rotella - Italy, 1975 III + I table (Table 02 ‐ Low, red plated) low table by Lukas Wegwerth - Germany, 2020 Navajo carpet - North America, 1950's
Wide brim hat in eco fur mongolia and eco-sustainable fur in vegetable-dyed Mongolia ALABAMA MUSE Holiday on ice embroidered silk dress DSQUARED2 Bracelets and rings DONATELLA PELLINI Patent leather decolletè with jewel anklets GEDEBE Large modular sofa by Uli Berger, Eleonore Peduzzi Riva e Klaus Vogt - Italy, 1972 Hand‐woven Wool Carpet - Persia, 1950's
Dress with poppy embroidery sequins GUCCI Ring and earring "Embrasse Moi" Collection FLORILÈGE DE VIE Suspension lamp by Analogia Project, Necklace Collection - Italy, 2018 Untitled by Mimmo Rotella - Italy, XX Century
Mermaid dress in black tulle with satin inlays and tulle petticoat ALBERTA FERRETTI Helm couture hat ALTALEN Vintage brooch DEMALDÈ Satin gloves with bows and jewel details DUECCI GUANTI Broche Vivier Chain Belt and Vivier Choc Booties Platform ROGER VIVIER Floor: Carpet Khorassan - Iran, 1960’s Wall: Carpet Khorassan - Iran, 1960’s
Coat in Melton wool and covered in sequins Long dress in golden crepe with hand-embroidered sequins MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION Rhomboid-shaped pochette AU DÉPART PARIS So Kate pump CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN Rings, Earrings and necklace "Lively & Lovely" Collection DREAMBOULE Totem bookshelf by Martino Gamper - Italy, 2007 (1999 project)
Chasing the Dream Photographer Stefano Facca Fashion Editor Alberto Corrado Stylist Fabio Pravato Stylist Assistant Ella Perrotta
Model Savanna Blade @ABC Models Milan Make up Chiara Cima @theagencyaldocoppola Hair Stefano Rolandi @T.W.A. Agency Video Antonio Caviraghi Production Force One Monte Carlo
Special Thanks Nilufar Depot Milano GS Genersis Security
Exploded trapeze-line dress Asymmetrical drop earring Stone emblem necklace Sculptural Mini Jewelled Satchel Wander Chelsea boots ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
princessyachts.com
© Philippe Fitte
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THE SECRET GARDEN
OF QUEENS AND BUTTERFLIES By Keith Francis “I love open air exhibitions because they offer a backdrop that is completely different from the museum or gallery…” says Spanish art giant Manolo Valdés. Well, he would be pleased by its exhibition, where the beauty of his artwork goes together with the beauty of the venues… I have always compared visiting an art gallery to a walk en plein air: it is regenerating, for the body and for the spirit. So imagine when the art gallery itself is en plein air! And imagine that this gallery is en plein air in places of exceptional beauty, such as the legendary Hotel du Cap-EdenRoc in Antibes, and the Château Saint-Martin & Spa in the hills of Vance … there is enough to stay inebriated, to have - as they say - butterflies in the stomach! So, while we’re at it, let’s keep imagining, and see the butterflies grow, become giants, spread their silver or blue wings like the southern French sky... We are in the middle of the artistic exhibition that the Oetker Group carries out every year in its two hotels on the Côte d’Azur, which, as happened once again in the past, is dedicated to the great Spanish sculptor Manolo Valdes. “La Rêverie”, we could translate it in “the daydream” is a collection of 13 monumental works, on view until October 17th. In the dreamy gardens of these two exceptional hotels, 13 monumental sculptures by Manolo Valdés are displayed for an exhibition like no other – a true dialogue between nature and art in spectacular surroundings. A major figure in contemporary art, Manolo Valdés has explored the works of the great masters for over 50 years, thereby adding his name to the list. His work is inspired by and pays tribute to classic artworks and prominent artists from history such as Velasquez, El Greco, Pablo Picasso, Henri Matisse and Constantin Brancusi. According to Valdés, “The art of every era adopts elements from what came before. Art is an infinite succession, always building on itself.” His undying passion for the masters has made Manolo Valdés an artist whose contemporary work serves as a bridge between past and present. From his iconic “Meninas”, a 3-dimensional adaptation of the famous Velasquez painting from 1656 interpreted in multicoloured resin, bronze and aluminium, to his feminine heads topped with extravagant headpieces composed of butterflies or leaves, Valdés work mirrors the singular Mediterranean beauty and lavish vegetation of the gardens at Château Saint-Martin & Spa and Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc. The reverie that his sculptures inspire isn’t merely due to their colour and shape, but also how they transform the landscape – like an eloquent ode to nature itself.
© Francesca Cari
homage to the three musketeers The amazing setting of the Manolo Valdès exhibition is one of the most iconic Hotels in the world. But for a hotel to become iconic it needs history and soul, that human touch that makes all the difference. The Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc has possibly the most faithful clientele, but maybe that is because it also has the most faithful staff. Meet the three humorously self-proclaimed dinosaurs, although we prefer to think of them as the three musketeers: Arnaud Poëtte - Executive Chef, 39 years of service Michel Babin de Lignac - Chef voiturier at the Eden-Roc pavilion, 46 years of service Giovanni Rizzi - who has been working at the cabanas for 45 years That's a whopping total of 130 years-experience in all! Hats off gentlemen!
© courtesy of Dior
© Grégory Lecoeur
Creating this dessert was the best experience of my professional life!
Julien Dugourd
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SWEET
& CHIC
@julien.dugourd
By Luca Marotta Meeting with Julien Dugourd, pastry chef of the two Michelin star restaurant of the Chêvre D'Or in Eze. The occasion is very special, both gourmet and elegant ... Indeed, Julien Dugourd has just presented the most chic dessert on the planet (!) at the request of the Maison Dior. F1M: Before discovering the “Vanilla Diorama”, a brief introduction on Julien Dugourd: how did you become a pastry chef? J.D. In fact I was supposed to be a chef ... but in the restaurant where I worked at the time there was no staff in the pastry department, and since I had undergone additional training as a chocolatier and pastry chef, I was asked to take care of it. I discovered an environment that I immediately loved and that I have never left! F1M: Is pastry a little less “creative” environment than cooking? J.D. In both fields there are constraints but, in my opinion, in pastry you can play more on the visual aspect, so there is more creativity. You can do many things... take my desserts for example, they have an almost architectural aspect. F1M: How did the project for the sweet Dior develop Did they contact you? J.D. Yes, it is a wonderful story. Last year I met a person from the Dior maison who, after tasting my desserts, proposed an original project: to give life, for the first time in history, to the dessert imagined by Monsieur Christian Dior. At that time, the Maison was launching the "Vanilla Diorama" perfume and they had the idea of also making a cake that had the same vanilla and orange notes as the perfume. Well, creating this gâteau was the best experience of my professional life! F1M: Did it take a lot of study to make this dessert? J.D. It took five months of research and development to achieve this, and everything was approved by Dior. It has been an exceptional adventure, ever since I met François Demachy, the creator of the maison's fragrances. An exceptional man, an encounter that left a deep mark on me. What really struck me about this experience is learning to discover Christian Dior as a man, someone with values I recognize myself in. If we look at what he did, Christian Dior was one of the people who greatly influenced the change in society! He started taking care of women in the postwar years, dressing them, making them beautiful ... everyone, and even a pastry chef like me can draw inspiration from Christian Dior.
F1M: Is there the same perception about the cake from your foreign customers (American, Japanese, French, Italian, etc.)? J.D. No, it's always great! There are customers who have traveled thousands of kilometers, Americans who have come from Miami on purpose to be able to taste the Vanilla Diorama! We have had many Italians who have traveled three or four hours to come and taste the cake! F1M: Personally I find that this cake is part of this moment in which French pastry, which has always been characterized by a generous use of butter and sugar, is looking for a more modern, more sober way. J.D. In fact, this cake has no added sugars! Usually, when I imagine a new dessert, I do it using my head ... but the Vanilla Diorama, I made it with the heart! In my research I tried to understand what kind of person Christian Dior was and to get to know the brand values in depth. I wanted to make a small, very refined dessert, with the highest quality products: organic vanilla from Madagascar, organic Navel orange from our region, with no added sugar, no fat, no butter. Everything has been designed so that the cake is sweetened by the natural sugars of fruit and white chocolate. When Monsieur Dior described this cake, he was talking about vanilla, an orange insert, a thin sheet of white chocolate. So I followed everything to the letter, choosing a white chocolate that wasn't too sweet. Every aspect is taken into consideration, even the height of the cake (which is precisely 2.9 cm high), allows a lady to taste it without having to open her mouth too much. Everything is studied down to the smallest detail! In terms of appearance, the round shape matches both the 1950s desserts and the bottle shape of the Vanilla Diorama perfume. The velvety surface recalls the dusty look of the Dior house in Grandville, while the design on the surface winks at his first designs from 1947 which were reproduced on the cake to obtain a sort of signature. The whole concept of the dessert is inspired by the apparent external simplicity of the first dresses created by Monsieur Dior, which inside them had six or even seven layers of fabric. Even in the dessert the internal structure is very complex, but on the outside it is presented with sober elegance, embellished with a small gold leaf.
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vivid360events.com
EXCLUSIVITY BEYOND DREAMS By Manuela Schinaia
Too often we get promised "exclusivity", "luxury", "unique occasions"... it's getting easier and easier to be disappointed... But London luxury PR superstar Kimberley Williams is there to fix this, once and for all.
Treat yourself to dinner during Vivid Monaco, and at the same time discover a range of exclusive works from the world’s most discerning jewellery, watch and luxury brands. The Fairmont Monte-Carlo will play host to Vivid Monaco on this very special night. As you walk in to the Salle de la Mer, as you sip your cocktail, you’ll be able to visit each brand’s reserved area where you can admire their most stunning pieces. Once you’ve whetted your appetite, or maybe even chosen a piece, it’s time for the dinner designed by Chef Didier Anies, "Meilleur Ouvrier de France" served with international premium wines. But there is a twist here too, as each brand will be hosting a table and, once again, you’ll be able to view the pieces that particularly caught your attention, as well as speak to the people behind the object of your desire. Among the jewellers you’ll be able to dine with, you’ll find Chatila Jewellers, Pasquale Bruni, Terzihan, Dreamboule, Bee Goddess, Ortaea London, the watch makers Tribus Watches, as well as The London Watch Show that includes, Richard Mille, Rolex and Patek Philippe. And there’s art too, with The House of Fine Art, which includes Banksy, Bran Symondson, Damien Hirst and Zhuang Hong Yi among others contemporary art stars.
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VIVID MONACO
Kimberley Williams
A luxury lifestyle also includes yachting, and Vivid Monaco is not just about objects, it's also experiences: there will be a masterclass in the echelon of interior superyacht design from Njord, by Bergman Design House and guests will also have the opportunity to win a complimentary design consultation for a chosen space onboard their yacht or in their home.
Once dinner is over, the room will open for networking so you can talk to the various representatives of brands and peruse their collections once again. And for the perfect ending to the perfect night, a drink tasting experience will also be organised at each table during which you can experience a unique digestif.
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SPEED, EMOTIONS, AND YOUTH ON WHEELS Stajvelo, Monaco's exclusive E-Bike manufacturer keep on expanding their range of e-bikes and conquers a new generation. Thierry Manni, the founder and CEO told us about it. "After the RV01, a futuristic e-bike ideal for commuting, I wanted to create a road racing bicycle. This led me to the Beau Rivage. This efficient and comfortable road bike pays tribute to the Beau Rivage climb in Monaco. After hundreds of geometries set ups and far more test rides, we reached the best balance between comfort and performance. With a handcrafted Italian carbon composite frame, the Beau Rivage is the result of Stajvelo know-how that will delight passionate riders. Once this bike developed, we, along with my team, decided to create a new electric range for urban, road and gravel travels. This is how two new e-bikes, the Nomades and Nomades R, an aluminum and a carbon version were created, designed essentially for the city and to respect our environment. Then we thought of escape and created an e-bike offering the possibility of discovering new routes, new paths. Adding the MontAgel, an e-gravel bike, and the Mirabeau an e-road bike, to the range was therefore obvious."
© Philippe Fitte
As each bicycle has its own history and its own riders, Thierry often meets his clients, including his latest, Olga Danilova, who looks like she has a promising career as a professional tennis player. Monaco resident, member of the Cyprus national junior tennis team, and trained at the renowned Tennium in Spain, celebrated her 14th birthday at the Stajvelo headquarters. Not only did she get to choose her new E-bike but she also received a sign model car of her favourite F1 driver Charles Leclerc. Only at Stajvelo... ;-)
stajvelo.com
PARTNERSHIP
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BUSINESS TALKS Creating bridges in times of pandemic. Business Talks Pop Up @ Houston was a hybrid event with the aim to create a virtual bridge between the guests attending in person at The Houstonian Hotel Club & Spa and the wider virtual audience of qualified speakers, partners and guests connected online. The first edition of Business Talks Pop-Up@Houston was hosted on Thursday, 26th August 2021 at the prestigious Forest Ballroom, with full respect of Covid 19 guidelines. It started with a business networking breakfast followed by the hybrid event. It has been the second event of this new private and exclusive series, launched last 11th May 2021 with Business Talks Monaco.
A great location for this first POP UP in USA of the new Business Talks series for both Partners and Guests. Organized by Investor Media Monaco in close cooperation with the main partners GO-ON Group, leaders in international B2B sales, Sherbiny Holding from Saudi Arabia, Italvalv, Chero Piping, Breda Energia andFornovo Gas, Business Talks Pop Up @ Houston has been a success. Over 100 accomplished, open and dynamic Business Professionals, Business Owners and Experts in Industry get together to listen to senior lecturers as Andrew Newport for "Energy Transition from Hydrocarbons to Renewables - Outlook on offshore projects" and Martin A. Gramont Manzo for "Economic Outlook after Pandemic".
investormediamonaco.mc
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© Boeing
© Dario Bologna
neosair.it
GET BACK IN THE AIR
WITH NEOS AIR An airline that not only offers a tailor-made service, but also respects the environment and cultural promotion.
Neos Air, an Italian airline that was created twenty years ago, is well established in the international market with a fleet of aircraft and a range of destinations that rank among the most interesting in Italy and abroad. Departing from Milan Malpensa and other major Italian airports, Neos Air will whisk you off to Puglia, Sicily and Sardinia, but also to exotic destinations in Africa (such as Cape Verde, Kenya and Madagascar, ...) and Asia (China, the Maldives, United Arab Emirates, Thailand, ...) as well as to numerous European capitals. The airline caters specifically for the needs of business or leisure customers. The Neos Air philosophy is built on four fundamental foundations: ethics, safety, technology and environment. During the pandemic, NEOS AIR operated humanitarian flights to transport essential medical materials and to carry out repatriation flights. In terms of safety, the ground and on-board personnel are always up-to-date with the latest health procedures and
safety standards, taking into account the latest events, but also building on the regulations in force previously. Technology is a priority. Since April 2021, the company has been part of the IATA Travel Pass program - a digital passport that facilitates international travel through a mobile app, to manage travelling in an easy and safe way that meets the government requirements of each country. Attention to the environment, the enhancement of the Italian territory and a preference for “Made in Italy”, are all part of the DNA of Neos Air. True luxury is respect for nature: the company has decided to reduce the environmental impact of its flights, both through the recycling of food and drink packaging and the choice of being as plastic free as possible, and by careful selection of suppliers who are able to guarantee recycling and separate collection of waste on board. Finally, the long-term vision of Neos Air is the ambitious goal of reinvesting in renewable energy to reduce CO2 emissions.
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LUXURY & PROFIT, WHAT AN EXCITING COMBINATION!
The founder of NPD Luxury Lab, Marco Ramundo, talks about the opportunities that arise when combining passion and business, luxury and profit. Warren Buffet famously said “If you don’t understand it, don’t invest in it”. It’s good advice but it’s generally ignored, largely because many investments are difficult to understand. Investing in Luxury is very often an exception to this rule. In fact, many investors are probably already experienced users of many luxury products and services, they have a unique insight into them and have an opinion about them. This means that, in this case, the decision to invest is an informed one, and that gives you an advantage. Moreover, if you’re looking for a market that promises to be around for a long time, you’ll find luxury goods hard to beat. As a matter of fact, if you look at the S&P Global Luxury index over ten years, the total return (capital gains plus income) in US dollars is an outstanding 13.7% a year. That’s over 3% more than
the 10.4% of the S&P Global 1200, an index tracking the overall performance of stocks worldwide. Few professional fund managers have been able to beat markets as a whole so comprehensively and consistently over such a long time period. Looking at the shorter time periods of five and three years, the luxury goods sector’s performance is even stronger and this kind of trend can even be improved when luxury is combined with innovation and high tech. NPD has a wide range of experience in advising on and investing in successful luxury brands like Dynamiq Yachts, Mazzanti Automobili, Futur-e Foiling, Bellavista Wine, Versace and many others. Given the data above, they have taken the decision to launch a new initiative called NPD Luxury Lab which will invest in a richly diverse portfolio of some
85 of the highest potential businesses in the luxury sector like yachting, hyper cars, jewels, wine & spirits and more. The fund-raising phase will start in the 4th quarter of 2021 and we are sure it will be a great opportunity for investors who want to increase their involvement in the luxury sector. In fact, NPD Luxury Lab will have a highly innovative governance model in which investors will be protagonists. NPD, as the operator of the investment vehicle, w ill perform a detailed and investment-driven screening activity, submitting the potential targets to the “Investment Committee” in which investors will be involved. They will then have the opportunity to analyse and approve the investment. In short, the luxury sector is just so much more interesting than almost any other because you already know a lot about it. That’s why it offers some of the most fascinating and exciting investment opportunities in the world and, best of all, the results can be as attractive as the subject matter.
NPD s.r.l. is a management consulting firm founded in Brescia (Italy) in 2013 that advises luxury sector companies on strategic management.
npd-italy.com
86 T H I R T Y • N I N E M O N T E
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PARTNERSHIP
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© Marco Regalli
© Alessio Pizzicannella
MONACO ET SUISSE INVESTMENT FORUM The Monaco et Suisse Investment Forum is a new networking event. As the name suggests it involves two different countries, the Principality of Monaco and Switzerland. The first edition will be held on the 8th October at the iconic and prestigious Yacht Club of Monaco, where selected companies, entrepreneurs, investors and final clients will have the opportunity to gather together and share their knowledge, ideas and passions. On the same day a very niche group of people will end the event at the suggestive Horizon Deck, to enjoy an exclusive dinner while sipping champagne and looking at the enchanting landscape of Monaco.. a wonderful way to relax after an intense business day. Despite being the first edition, the organizers have already proven to be very ambitious. Indeed, the Monaco et Suisse Investment Forum will welcome the Monaco Economic Board and Swiss authorities representing the State Council of the canton of Ticino. F.1.M. : Where does the idea of “Monaco et Suisse Investment Forum” come from? M.S.I.F.: Connections are extremely important because you never know what or where they will take you. It could be an idea, a partner, an investment, or a particular skill, you never know.. it’s the beauty of the unknown. Generally, the success of a project mostly depends on the connections that one has and sometimes reaching the right contact at the right time is tricky. The Principality of Monaco is the land of encounters, a place where the most prestigious personalities of the world are settled. On the other hand, Switzerland is a country that has always been able to attract a large number of capitals, in fact many families and important entrepreneurs have established their business and residence there. For this reason, we decided to partner with the organizers of “Borsa Immobiliare Ticino” in order to build synergy between the two countries and promoting business exchanges also at an institutional level. F.1.M.: So, who’s behind the event? M.S.I.F.: Behind the event there are different personalities with complementary skills and core businesses: Raffaello and Tricia Cairoli (Co-Founder of CMLS Monaco), Trudy Berger (Founder of Brand Therapy), Alexander Kern (Founder of AKX Capital) are the Monegasque organizers,
while Paolo Caspani (Founder of Creart Communication and “Borsa Immobiliare Ticino”) and Sheila De Lucia (Founder of L-Evento) are mostly following the Switzerland companies being residents there. As you can see the team itself has been arranged with the aim of providing to the participants the widest range of connections and skills. F.1.M.: What makes your event different from the others? M.S.I.F.: Our real added value is the concept. Closing a deal in one day - the same day in which people get the chance to know each other - is almost impossible. Our idea is to see the event as a celebration, a moment to meet new people and share respective knowledge and skills in a fascinating environment. Following the event, the team will work closely with the companies for one year to achieve the agreed strategies and meet the clients’ need. By doing so participants can get rid of the weight on their shoulders, the stress of not signing contracts on the same day and simply enjoy the business day. Moreover, let’s not forget that we have been able to create a deeper relationship between these two countries also on an institutional level, aspect that we are really proud of. F.1.M.: Do you have any expectations? M.S.I.F.: Particularly after the pandemic, doing networking, speaking with people, exchanging insights and projects have become remarkably essential. All the team and participants are looking forward to finally be reunited, a glimpse of normality in full respect of the Government anti-pandemic rules. This is going to be the first edition but to be honest we are already thinking at the second one.
HIM / CLASSIC
PAL ZILERI Round-toe strapless Chelsea Boots, with elastic
palzileri.com
C AROLINA HERRERA BAD BOY is an aromatic oriental fragrance expressing opposing notes within each other: the brightness of Sage, Green Bergamot and Pepper blends with the sensual darkness of Tonka Bean, cocoa and amber wood.
carolinaherrera.com
MISSONI The Missoni Men's Fall Winter 21 collection draws inspiration from the metropolis and from the ineffable path everyone takes through its labyrinths
missoni.com
RRD Techno-stretch coated nylon Jacket with special waterproof and windproof breathable membrane
robertoriccidesigns.com
LOUIS VUITTON The FW 2021/22 Uniforms theme takes the pinstripe motif drawn from the suits of London’s eighteenth century bankers to identify their rank.
louisvuitton.com
SANTONI Monk Strap in high quality leather, with hand-applied antique finish actualised by premium Goodyear construction
santonishoes.com BIKKEMBERGS Nylon/neoprene quilted jacket on colour-wash denim, with crewneck wool sweater
bikkembergs.com
SEALUP The iconic Sealup peacoat in a new version with an exclusive water resistant outer fabric in micro-frosted cotton-nylon blend
sealup.net/
HIM / SPORT
STW Vintage-treated Top Sneakers with real leather lining
stwtheverticaline.com ICEBERG Sportswear with the brand new Iceberg metal label in black, white and yellow, colours borrowed from racing car style.
iceberg.com
TATRAS Gimi made in 100% nylon and luxuriously padded with a soft belnd of goose down and feathers.
tatras-official.com
PAUL&SHARK This high-quality outdoor collection is designed by young creative Yosuke Aizawa from White Mountaineering using technical fabrics like Typhoon 20000 and Primaloft with wool.
paulandshark.com
VALEXTRA A backpack model interpreted through the elegant use and clean lines of soft raw-cut calfskin, hand-polished profiles in keeping with historic Costa quality.
valextra.com
ELEVENTY ‘Simplicity’ captioned crewneck hoody with elastic waist Japanese fleece pants
eleventymilano.com
JAQUEMUS As the name itsef says, La Montaigne’s collection draws on the mountaineering world, with a range of garments and accessories that take us straight to the top.
jaquemus.com
CELINE CT-03 high-top sneaker with optical white and black calfskin strap
celine.com
PACO RABANNE Phantom is the addictive complex aromatic scent combining notes of lemon with ultra-creamy lavender chords.
MARVIS Marvis Aquatic Mint Toothpaste gives you the sensation of crystal clear water with the delicate freshness of cood mint.
marvis.co.uk
pacorabanne.com
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HER / CLASSIC
GUM Boston bag with heart-shaped shoulder strap
gum-design.com
ALTUZARRA French touch and New York attitude: a blend of cosmopolitan references
altuzarra.com
SERGIO ROSSI Contemporary allure for the Twenty tapered-toe décolleté with midi heel. This classic is rounded off by a band on the uppers, embellished with jewel buckle.
sergiorossi.com
PENHALIGON'S Two worlds touching and entwining in a woody aroma where Fir, Pink Pepper and Lavender together combine with, Geranium, Patchouli and Musk.
penhaligons.com
93 PESERICO Total look for a sophisticated woman with essential lines unfolding in tones of slate gray and Carrara beige.
peserico.it
LORENA ANTONIAZZI 12 gauge V-neck cardigan, Jacquard weave with a unique ethnic motif.
lorenaantoniazzi.com
RODO Soft leather ankle boots with fur inlaid buckle
rodo.it STEM AGE is the first line of anti-aging creams capable of reducing the sking ageing index by 40% in just one month, with visible, stable and lasting effect thanks to the action of precious extract of white caviar and Roe Extract.
stemage.it
SHOPPING
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HER / SPORT
BORSALINO The oldest of all Italian manufactures joins the legendary Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto for the Icaro capsule in felt. Limited edition.
borsalino.com
VALENTINO “Mastery Tales”: a narrative of beauty, creative fervour, passion and tradition that distinguishes the extraordinary savoir-faire of Italian craftsmanship and the techniques of the fashion house.
valentino.com
CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN
ALBINO TEODORO Purity and femininity for contemporary luxury where the essential nature of brutalist architecture is softened by typical sensuality typical of the 50’s and 70’s.
ateodoro.it
Kypipouch calfskin with silver zip sliders, adorned with the red Loubi capsule inscription, "Walk a mile in my shoes".
eu.christianlouboutin.com
HOGAN The new Hogan-3R environment-friendly collection made using regenerated leather and recycled plastics with innovative 3D designs
hogan.com
COURREGES Total super-minimalist look and ‘sixties retro references, monochrome pink with cuissardes boots.
courreges.com
PISA Earrings and ring in rose gold, diamonds and pink sapphires with a variety of cuts making a floral design of precious petals.
pisaorologeria.com
AGL
ROBERTO CAVALLI
SILVANA boots, inspired on technical trekking boots, whose traditional structure softly swathes the leg up to the knee. Maxi-laces give feminine allure to this creation with imposing volumes underscored by heavy lug soles.
The first Roberto Cavalli collection by Fausto Puglisi pays tribute to all the elements that made the Maison famous: audacity, extravagance, sex appeal and pop touches.
agl.com
robertocavalli.com
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