Zen Nature Trips

Mala Paklenica, Photo by Damir Kovačić

plITVICE lAKEs A sultry oppression sat over the fields and mountains for months. People and animals, meadows and gardens yearned for refreshing, gentle rain. the Crna Rijeka river, ordinarily a cheerfully babbling stream, dried up. the people’s prayers and pleading were all in vain the skies showed no mercy on them. But then the Black Queen with her glittering entourage appeared in the valley. the people cried for help, asking for water, without which they would all perish. And the Queen took pity on them: with great thunder and lighting, heavy rain began to fall in an instant, bringing life to the people and animals, fields and meadows. the rain poured and poured, and the waters began to grow, until they formed the lakes as we see them today.

thus reads just one of the many legends that surrounds the forming of this series of sixteen lakes that step down hill, connecting to each other by waterfalls. Plitvice lakes really is the most unique natural sight in the country, having been formed, so an alternative and more coldly scientific theory reasons, by triffids! Well, not actually triffids if truth be told; the lakes are in fact formed by lumps of moss, but how else does one think of pleasure pool building plants?

in 1910, a student of the region wrote that the lakes are ‘… rather out of the way, remote from the lively and modern thoroughfares, out in the Croatian karst, some 9 – 10 hours by coach or nine–sitter public omnibus, with a change of horse’s at Jasenica’. Well you may not be depending on that type of horsepower to get here, but apart from that, should you trek down here in the summer then the experience is going to feel fairly similar – because Plitvice is now on the main thoroughfare from the north to the middle and southern parts of the coast, and believe us, this small road gets busy!

however, rest assured, the park is well worth the potentially nightmare journey. let’s get the technical bit out of the way shall we? it is entirely true that the lakes are built by plants. the warm, aerated water of the streams that permeate the park are ideal to promote the growth of mosses. the mosses sit in the water and catch in their roots the dissolved limestone that the rough water sweeps down. this material is then called travertine. over time this limestone hoard builds, new mosses jump on the top and round it all goes again. leave to stew for a few thousand years and hey presto, you have yourself a series of lakes consisting of waters trapped by the limestone barriers that the mosses have built.

Further than this, these mosses, perfectionists that they are, are not satisfied with their creation and continue to feverishly construct new barriers. Measurements of the depth of the water taken in 1855 were 3m lower than those recorded in 1958. these glistening blue and green lakes are linked by waterfalls as the water tumbles onwards down the staircase that the barriers create, the tumult ending 135m below the point at which it started, as the waters leave the final lake in the series and plunge in one last 72m dive to join numerous cascades racing to fuse with the Korana River.

Around the lakes stands dense forest with the occasional glade – mostly the result of human engineering for the sake of livestock. Many paths lead through the park and around the lakes providing you with a superb playground to wander about in, feeling insignificant in comparison to the majesty of nature; the power of the waters; the vigour of the forest; the achievements of moss.

VElEbIT the magnificent terrain of the Velebit, a breathtaking chain of craggy peaks that runs along the coast for some 145km is one of Croatia’s most important areas of surviving natural wilderness. the whole range falls under the protection of the Velebit Nature Park (Park Prirode Velebit). Within the Park are two areas of more strict conservation, the Northern Velebit National Park (nacionalni park sjeverni Velebit) and – right down at the southern end of the range – the Paklenica National Park. seen from the coast, the Velebit range appears to be a forbidding wall of arid rock, although there are plenty of forests, meadows and pastures hidden away in the highland troughs that run between the brittle grey ridges. the western flanks of the Velebit mark the transition from the Mediterranean to the Continental european climatic zones, and the prevailing type of vegetation can change in the space of a few kilometres. Covering the lower limbs of the mountain is the parched rocky scrub so typical of the Adriatic coast, while dense for-

ests of beech stretch across the slopes further up. spruce, fir and juniper characterize the higher altitudes, and a multitude of alpine flowers can be found above the tree-line – it is claimed that the Velebit as a whole contains 2.5 times more species of flora than the whole of Great Britain put together. the Velebit sustains a diverse animal population, including mountain goats, wild cats, wolves and bears.

in the past the coastal belt of the Velebit was intensively terracefarmed, as can be seen by the dry-stone balls that still cover the range’s lower slopes. the local inhabitants migrated up and down the mountain according to the season, staying near the coast in winter and taking their flocks to the high-mountain pastures in summer. Most of the olive groves, fruit orchards and sheep pastures that used to stretch along the hillsides have long ago reverted to scrub. logging remains an important local industry higher up the mountain, and with its wealth of unspoiled scenery and attractive scenery the region is becoming a muchfavoured destination for get-away-from-it-all travellers.

one thing the Velebit range is famous for is its unpredictable weather. storms can roll in with sudden ferocity and temperatures frequently plummet without warning. if you are planning any walking or mountain biking, always seek advice from the national Park offices before setting out into the wilds.

pAKlENICA the impressive Paklenica national Park lies just north of Zadar within the Velebit mountain range. two gorgeous canyons named Velika and Mala Paklenica divide this mountainous region filled with gorges and cliffs that peak up to 400m in height. the views are breathtaking: the lush surroundings are the result of large quantities of pure spring water that envelop the area and allow for the trees and meadows to blossom. local two and four legged residents include sparrow hawks, chamois, wild boar, brown bears, wolves and lynx. Perfect for bird watching! such beauty cannot go to waste so we invite you to partake in the many adventure activities on offer. the magnificent canyon Velika Paklenica is home to natural mountain climbing and rock climbing spots; mountaineering and hiking are popular with over 150km of trails. White water rafting and canoeing from the highest point of the Zrmanja River will leave even the most experienced breathless. Become a speleologist for the day, admiring the deep caves and their rich rock formations. the incredible diversity of landscape in such a small space can be experienced by mountain bike or opt for an off-road excursion. local tourist authorities publish excellent maps. Guided tours and qualified instructors for adventure activities need to be reserved. if you crave some fresh alpine air, mountain hut accommodation is available. Be warned, book in advance. Karl May fans and nature lovers can visit the original screening locations of films dedicated to the legendary indian chief Winnetou. this includes a thematic exhibition in the old part of the Alan hotel where the film crew resided during the shooting of the motion picture in the 1960’s. the exhibition also includes authentic bedrooms, documented photos from the shooting and original objects used in the films. Besides visiting the various places in the Velika Paklenica canyon where the film was shot in motion, we strongly recommend the Velebit jeep safari and the visit to the beautiful surroundings of tulove Grede and the socalled Pueblo plato. For all essential information, visit www. rivijera-paklenica.hr

Senj, Photo by Zdenko Vukelić

Senj, Photo by Zdenko Vukelić

senj

senj is famed for fearsome pirates and north winds whipping down from the Velebit range. the symbol of senj is the 16th century Nehaj fortress, part of the hapsburg defences against the turks, while historical artefacts testify to a past going back to Roman times. Completely spared from mass development, this part of the coast has dramatic views of highlands and islands, and secluded pebbly coves where the sea is fed by mountain springs. tourism is on a low-key scale, with foreign visitors mainly coming for camping and adventure sports. You’re in easy reach of mountain peaks and meadows, including the Northern Velebit National Park, the picturesque village of Krasno (a Marian shrine), and the watermills of the Gacka valley. After a hard day’s exploring, watch the lights twinkling all over the Kvarner Bay as you feast on a plate of freshly-caught seafood or local lamb.

inside Tips

NEHAj ForTrEss IN sENj Dominating the horizon south of senj is the hilltop fortress of nehaj, a monumental sixteenth-century cube of grey-brown stone embellished by a bouquet of dramatically-sprouting corner towers. the fortress is a simple but effective construction consisting of a single keep-like tower with two storeys of gun positions and an open parapet at the top. the history display inside makes imaginative use of senj’s turbulent past. there is also a fascinating relief map of senj as it looked in the seventeenth century – which shows how little the town’s maze of narrow alleys has changed in the intervening centuries. look out for a real-size relief of ivan lenković (a copy of his tomb in the slovene town of novo Mesto), showing him in full body armour and wielding a mace to symbolize his authority. A tunnelled stairway leads to the second floor, where a pair of cannon point mutely out to sea. A further climb leads to the open parapet, with fantastic views of the coast and islands.

THE sENj ToWN MusEuM senj’s town Museum occupies the Gothic-Renaissance palace of the Vukasović family, a beautifully restored building with wooden-beamed ceilings and atmospherically creaky staircases. the museum’s pride and joy is the brand-new display of Roman-ea amphorae in the basement, where a recreated seabed scene shows how these shipwrecked ancient vessels looked when the marine archeologists first found them. three more floors of exhibits follow, showcasing senj’s importance as a spiritual centre from the Middle Ages onwards. occupying pride of place is the so-called senj tablet (senjska ploča), a fractured piece of stone bearing a twelfth-century inscription in the Glagolitic script. Built into a staircase in the nehaj fortress, the tablet probably originally belonged to a medieval monastery demolished to provide nehaj with construction materials. senj was a major centre of Galagolitic printing during the Renaissance, recalled here by a collection of old books and facsimiles. several rooms pay moving tribute to those senj citizens who served during the homeland War of 1991-1995. the display culminates with a room devoted to the Bunjevci, Croats who originally lived in the river Buna area (herzegovina) but were dispersed in the aftermath of the ottoman invasion. today, descendants of the Bunjevci live in three main locations: the senj region, the hinterland of Dalmatia, and the area around subotica in northern serbia. Characteristically colourful Bunjevci costumes are beautifully displayed here, alongside embroidery, tufted rugs and other traditional handicrafts.

CATHEDrAl oF THE AsCENsIoN IN sENj senj’s principal place of worship is thought to date from the eleventh century, and fragments of Romanesque brickwork can still be seen on the lower parts of the west-facing façade. the Cathedral was severely damaged in the Allied bombing raids of september 1943, after which the exterior was reconstructed in a selection of different materials – thereby explaining the building’s current mix-and-match appearance.

inside, each row of pews is engraved with a character from the Glagolitic alphabet (those on the left-hand side spell out the words ‘Katedrala senj’, just in case you’re wondering). Decorating the pillars on either side of the nave is a series of wooden reliefs illustrating the stations of the Cross, carved in 1958. by ivan Kožarić. Main highlight on the left side of the nave is the baroque Altar of the Angels, with Raphael the healer in the centre, and st Michael spearing a frowny-faced demon to his right. the curtained glass cabinet beneath the altar contains the mummified remains of an early Christian martyr brought here from the catacombs in Rome. nearby, an ornate baroque pulpit dating from 1757 bulges from a pillar like a gilded fungus. over on the opposite side of the nave is a charming nineteenth-century effigy of the Virgin and Child mounted on a canopied trolley, traditionally paraded around town on the feast day of our lady of Mount Carmel (16 July). one of the cathedral’s most revered artefacts is the renaissance relief of the holy trinity immediately to the right of the main entrance as you face the altar. Dating from 1491, the relief bears a touching portrayal of the Crucified Christ alongside the earliest known stone-carved example of a šahovnica, the chequerboard pattern that appears on the Croatian coat of arms.

ZAVrATNICA two kilometres south of Jablanac, the fjord-like Zavratnica is one of the most beautiful coves on the Adriatic coast, and is the one destination south of senj that you should on no account leave off your itinerary. it is basically a sunken mountain ravine, with a shallow bay overlooked by sheer, rugged cliffs. You can walk there from Jablanac along a level and easily negotiable path that begins just below the Rapska plovidba ferry ticket kiosk. the path was built in the 1930s, when Zavratnica was a popular stop-off for Czech and Austrian tourists bound for the off-shore resort of Rab. once you get to the cove the path winds beneath bonewhite crags, eventually arriving at a pine-shaded bathing area at the cove’s eastern end. it’s the perfect place for contemplation, and even in summer when Zavratnica fills up with excursion boats, it’s a good spot to sunbathe and swim. A stony path heads uphill and inland from Zavratnica to the Vidikovac (‘viewpoint”; also accessible by car from the main coastal road), where you can enjoy superb views back across the cove.

KuTErEVo Continuing east from Krasno along the main road to Otočac soon brings you to the turn-off for Kuterevo, an engaging cluster of stone barns, potato patches, grazing sheep and strutting chickens that scatters itself across several lumpy hillocks. Kuterevo would be worth visiting simply as an outstanding example of a traditional village, although it’s the presence of the Kuterevo Bear Sanctuary at the south-eastern end of the village that pulls in most visitors. staffed by an enthusiastic bunch of international volunteers, the sanctuary provides a home for orphaned or abandoned bear cubs that would not have survived had they been left in the wild. Kuterevo lies at the centre of the Velebit’s brown-bear territory, and the locals are extraordinarily proud of these shaggy lumbering creatures. Young cubs are kept in an oval enclosure near the entrance to the sanctuary. Further down the hill is a much larger enclosure providing adult bears with the space they need to roam around. having grown up among humans, Kuterevo’s bears can’t be reintroduced into the wild, and the sanctuary is in many ways a compromise – providing a secure but notquite-natural life for animals that would have otherwise died in their cub-hood.

THE NIKolA TEslA MEMorIAl CENTrE IN sMIljAN situated in the village of smiljan near Gospić, the centre was opened in 2006 to commemorate the 150th anniversary of the birth of nikola tesla, the epoch-making inventor whose work on electric current, x-rays, light bulbs, radio transmissions and remote-control devices helped shape the world we live in today. the centre contains an accessible and entertaining audio-visual display that allows visitors to get up close to tesla’s unique gift for invention. the centre comprises several buildings, including the house in which tesla was born, a multimedia centre, a tesla-designed turbine and a recreation of the laboratory he built in Colorado springs in 1899. With a children’s playground on site too, it’s a great place for a family day out.

Mačkare, Photo by Milan Šabić, Sinj Tourist Board Archives

Southern Croatia

Many of the superlatives associated with Croatian tourism are reserved for the south, where sweeping beaches are overlooked by dramatic mountain peaks, and unspoiled coves. With fabled historic cities such as split and Dubrovnik there is an awful lot to savour.