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the old heart of Zagreb, Gornji grad, is a charming mix of historic buildings, churches and baroque palaces in the peaceful surrounding with almost no traffic. Don’t miss the landmark of the city - the colourful roof of st Mark’s Church framed by the Parliament and the Government buildings. Mind the midday cannon blast from the lotrščak tower, a tradition that stretches back for over a century. A medieval Stone Gate, today a pilgrimage place, tells us a story of the raging fire and the Gate’s miraculous survival in the 18th century. it’s a short walk from here to the neighbouring hill of Kaptol and the soaring towers of the Zagreb Cathedral, and then onto Dolac farmers market with fresh produce from the surrounding villages. nicknamed “the belly of Zagreb” this lively open-air market is dotted with red umbrellas protecting its vendors from the sun and rain all year round. stroll down the steps and you’re on Trg bana Jelačića, Zagreb’s central square. For shopping, continue down ilica street, a busy shopping mecca with artisan workshops and boutiques. take a coffee break on tkalčićeva street, also known as a street of cafes. Croatians are very big on coffee culture and Tkalčićeva street, lined up with outdoor terraces on both sides, is the perfect example. Downtown area boasts a Green Horseshoe – a line of eight landscaped parks-squares in the centre of Zagreb. Zrinjevac Park, being one of them, is flanked by the elegant buildings and 150-years old plane trees. the city’s largest park is Maksimir which is a 20 min tram ride from the Central square. here you can enjoy many hiking paths and promenades, boat rides and a special attraction – a City Zoo. top your city break with a tasty meal at one of city’s numerous restaurants varying from hearty continental to light Mediterranean dishes.

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zagreb in TransiTion

It has been something of an eventful year in the Croatian capital, what with pandemic lockdowns, earthquakes, and much talk about what the future holds for a changing city. Some things have changed in Zagreb, some things have kept on going: here are our reflections on five contemporary phenomena affecting the face of the city.

ouTDoor ExHIbITIoNs Museum and gallery closures due to Covid-19 restrictions and earthquake damage meant that more art took place on the streets than behind closed doors. there has also been a renewed focus on outdoor exhibitions in general, and the way in which the city itself can function as a cultural space. initiatives such as Street Triptych, which invites street artists to cover vacant spaces in the city centre, have signalled a new appreciation of street murals and the people who paint them. Among key cultural institutions, the Art Pavilion has responded to the need for post-earthquake repairs by organizing sculpture exhibitions outside the gallery. From April 2021 exhibitions have been taking place on the café-lined Cvijetni trg, right in the middle of the city-centre pedestrian precinct, thanks to solar-powered panels that are able to display work in a way that is far better than simply putting posters on open-air display boards. With initial exhibitions devoted to landscapes and cultures of particular regions or countries, it’s almost like an outdoor illustrated encyclopedia: a great place to enjoy great photography and learn something at the same time.

pArKs ArE THE NEW proMENADEs Zagrebians have always been fond of parklife – and there’s no doubt that the events of the last year have made the city’s green spaces more important. not only were they a place to escape the physical restrictions of lockdowns or fears of tremors – they were also the perfect places in which to soothe way the stress of being an urban dweller in an age when urban life suddenly became more complicated. Maksimir, the vast expanse of landscaped lawns, lakes and woodland 3km east of the centre, is now more popular than ever. the same can be said of Bundek, the lakeside park south of the river; the walking and cycling tracks along the Sava river embankment; or the slopes of Medvednica, the mountain that looms above the city to the north. indeed if someone without prior knowledge of Zagreb was to start writing a guidebook to the city from scratch in 2021, they would probably start with the parks rather than the museums and the churches; it’s in the parks that the life and soul of the city is to be found.

Jarun Lake, Photo by Mateo Vrbnjak

ZAgrEb HAs A NEW-olD ArT MusEuM Despite being stacked full of nineteenth- and twentieth-century masterpieces, Zagreb’s Modern Gallery was always misunderstood, overshadowed in the public mind by other art collections in the city. People knew it was an art gallery, but didn’t realize how crucial a component of the nation’s artistic heritage it actually was. A subtle change of name and a significant rehang of the contents has sharpened the picture. now rebranded as the National Museum of Modern Art, it serves as the perfect showcase for Croatia’s emergence as a cultural power, and makes for essential viewing for anyone intending to visit the (somewhat better known) Museum of Contemporary Art on the south side of the river.

rElAx, THIs Is CroATIA Croatia’s much vaunted coffee-drinking culture has, in a way, come to the nation’s rescue. throughout much of the pandemic period café terraces have been open, even if the interiors have not. Morning coffees have become even more important daily rituals, to be appreciated and savoured in quiet defiance of bad news elsewhere. During strict lockdown periods residents bought takeaway coffees from vending machines or places that were permitted to sell hot drinks, and collected, discreetly, on the streets where they would normally sit at a café table. Zagreb was actually a comforting place to be throughout much of 2020, an outdoor city that took things in its stride.

WElCoME To THE sWAMp All levels of Zagreb cultural life have suffered enormously as a result of covid-19 and the earthquake, however one alternative club has continued to provide its regular public with a cultural diet throughout all stages of the pandemic, while scrupulously adhering to any regulations imposed. Currently celebrating its 22nd year in operation, Močvara (the swamp) navigated the first lockdown by broadcasting (via its social media pages) concerts performed by the city’s indie musicians in their own homes. After the tentative re-openings of late spring 2020, the club organized concerts, film nights and other cultural events by strictly controlling numbers and insisting on advance reservations. the club kept going through the winter of 2020-21 by constantly revising its seating policies in line with the latest regulations. through improvisational agility and the understanding of its fans, Močvara ensured a measure of continuity in a sphere of culture that has always been in Zagreb’s blood.

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Photo by Mali Zagreb Archives

MAlI ZAgrEb Mali Zagreb is a series of miniature installations within the city of Zagreb. The author of the project is Filip Filković Philatz. Unexpected joy for big and small ‘people’

zagreb Top sighTs

MIrogoj CEMETEry situated on the slopes of the Medvednica mountain, it is one of the most beautiful cemeteries in europe. limegreen cupolas top the wall that surrounds the memorial park. Mirogoj is not only a burial place but also a beautiful park and open art gallery. not far from the present mortuary, in the period between 1852 and 1895 there stood the summer house of the illyrian leader, ljudevit Gaj. After his death the municipality bought the complete estate and constructed the central Zagreb cemetery upon it. the well-known architect herman Bollé designed the shape of the cemetery, applying a monumental composition of arcades, pavilions and domes, intermingled with rich vegetation, and adding a gallery of sculptures by Croatian sculptors. Getting there Bus n°106 from the Cathedral to Mirogoj takes 15min. You can also take tram n°14 from the main square heading east (to Mihaljevac) and get out at the fourth stop (Gupčeva zvijezda).

NIKolA ŠubIć ZrINsKI squArE the combination of the outdoor gazebo, expertly manicured lawn, flowers, enormous trees, fountains and statues make this sucker a brilliant place to take a load off. this is the park closest to trg bana Josipa Jelačića and you’ll be thrilled to see that its also a make-out point: local lovers show-off their most complex and passionate manoeuvres free of charge in this baby.

sT MArK’s CHurCH the spectrum of colours displayed on the roof beautifully depicts the Croatian, Dalmatian and slavonian coats-of-arms and also the Zagreb city emblem and provides for quite a lasting visual. Due to various natural disasters it has received a ton of reconstruction and not a whole lot remains of the original 14th century building. inside, highlights include two works by ivan Meštrović, Croatia’s most famous sculptor, and frescoes by artist Jozo Kljaković.

sToNE gATE this archway was one of the four original entries into the walled Gornji grad of the feudal period. in 1731 a terrible fire destroyed much of the town, and legend has it that a vision of the Virgin Mary could be seen in the burnt ash that remained in this entry. it was reconstructed in 1760 and hasn’t been touched since. today you’ll find ladies praying in the church pews, black-soot ceilings and candles glowing as a testament to a people and their faith. THE CATHEDrAl oF AssuMpTIoN oF THE blEssED VIrgIN MAry A wonder of neo-Gothic artistry, the impressive and sharp looking towers stand out from nearly anywhere you are in the entire city. though it’s in an evidently permanent state of reconstruction, it’s undeniably overwhelming and will push you to ponder those larger things we can see you’ve been avoiding. Go ahead and wander inside but don’t forget to turn the mobile off. A brief history: 1093 - founded; 1242 - the initial Romanesque construction is finished. in the next 21 years it’s heavily damaged in various sieges by the tatars; 1624 - a series of sweeping fires practically destroys it; 1645 - another wave of fires picks up where the last left off. it’s reconstructed; 1880 - sustains serious damage during an earthquake. A 12-year restoration takes place, at which time the neo-Gothic bell towers are raised skyward; 1990 - exterior renovations set in motion to battle against the effects of time. Zagreb Cathedral is currently closed due to damage caused by the earthquake which hit the Zagreb area on 22 March 2020. At the moment you can only view it from the outside.

The most popular local dessert, Samoborska kremšnita, is now legally protected as an autochthonous Croatian brand. The original recipe was created in the 1920s by confectioner Đuro Lukačić. People are still waiting in line to try it

zagreb around

in the hills embracing Zagreb from the north and the gentler plains to the south, the city seems a world away. the picturesque town of Samobor, with its pretty square and a long history of craftsmanship, lures you with its famous samoborska kremšnita - the best custard cake in Croatia, accompanied with bermet - a sweet aperitif wine stemming from napoleon times. the samobor nature Park and the nearby Plešivica hills offer great wine routes to explore amid spectacular scenery covered in forest and vineyards. the region, including the nearby Žumberak hills is popular with the hikers. Also, west of Zagreb there’s some great fishing spots near the village of Sveta Nedelja. Crna Mlaka bird reserve is a stone throw from the town of Jastrebarsko. At Zaprešić you’ll enjoy the stroll around the typical 19th century feudal estate once owned by a famous Jelačić family that produced the most notable viceroy in the Croatian history. to the south of Zagreb lies Velika Gorica – the biggest city of the county with wooden manor houses and charming wooden churches scattered all around. Close-by are the remains of the Roman settlement - Andautonia. to the east, the hills around Sveti Ivan Zelina attract visitors with its scenic roads and the award-winning wines.

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Zagorje is a historic region of rolling hills dotted with castles and mansions, traditional rural architecture, spas and farmsteads serving delicious local food. its central town, Krapina, has a fine square and a highly significant finding of neanderthal remains. the award-winning Krapina Neanderthal Museum offers multimedia and interactive exhibits that gives us a vivid insight into the lives of our ancestors. Fast forward a few millennia and visit a mighty Veliki Tabor castle, the best example of medieval fortification in this part of Croatia. on a nearby hill visit a picturesque farmstead Grešna gorica and try some of the local specialties: Zagorje štrukli – a specialty of the region composed of dough and fresh cottage cheese which can be either boiled or baked, roasted duck with mlinci - a homemade pasta dish, rich Zagorje soup with mushrooms, bacon and potatoes. if you have some room left, try their delicious strudels made from cherries, plums or apples. Kumrovec open-air museum is only 20 minutes away and is a definite must. Beautifully restored village with traditional wooden houses show you what the life looked like 150 years ago. Kumrovec was also a birthplace of the controversial communist leader Josip Broz tito and his family house has been well preserved. At the nearby Klanjec there’s a gallery representing magnificent works by a Croatian sculptor Antun Augustinčić. Further east, a well-frequented pilgrimage spot, Marija Bistrica, boast a beautiful neo-gothic church and is the most important Marijan shrine in Croatia. Choose a spa resort to your taste: try Tuheljske Toplice, Krapinske Toplice or Stubičke Toplice. some of them stem from the Roman times.

zagorje eden desTinaTions

Biser Zagorja Archives

Just north of Zagreb, on the other side of the Medvednica mountain, lies a pristine green region with rich cultural and historical heritage. it is crisscrossed with rivers and streams, crowned by picturesque hills, and has many traditional wine cellars and beautiful vistas. here you can experience the authentic country life undisturbed by the usual city chaos, hustle and bustle. Zagorje region is the traditional part of Croatia where many of the customs are preserved; where the food is of superb quality and completely organic. it is a magical place that alleviates tension and stress, a place where one can relax and recharge batteries.

So, what is it that attracts us to Zagorje? Besides the highest concentration of castles in Croatia and a number of great wine cellars, Zagorje abounds in thermal spas and Wellness. some of these thermal springs have been in use since the Roman times. the healing powers of the spas are believed to cure or ameliorate the symptoms of many ailments, thanks to their unique mineral content. the three top ones listed below are proud owners of the european Destination of exellance title and are recognized as eDen destinations.

Terme tuhelj, Krapinske toplice or Stubičke toplice all provide wellness retreats with healing properties of their own springs. there are numerous accommodation options in the area, ranging from modern apartments or houses near the tourist centers, to households in secluded areas amidst the beautiful natural surroundings, serving as a perfect escape from the city hustle and bustle. You may also look up the exclusive terme tuhelj Glamping Village.

TuHEljsKE ToplICE (THErMAl spAs) the Water Planet of terme tuhelj is the largest swimming pool complex in Croatia with many water attractions. Accommodation is offered in a 4-star hotel Well that comprises spacious rooms, a sauna & jacuzzi and an amazing Aqua Park surrounded by a lush landscape of rolling hills.

KrApINsKE ToplICE (THErMAl spAs) Krapinske toplice with its wellknown thermal spas is nestled in a beautiful valley, close to the slovenian border. it is popular because of its numerous health care facilities with water rich in calcium and magnesium content, that treats everything from spine conditions to diabetes and heart disease. it has a new Aquae Vivae water park, a spa centre with saunas, and a restaurant. You can stay at the hotel Villa Magdalena, the first exclusive, small four-star hotel boasting luxury units in Zagorje.

sTubIčKE ToplICE (THErMAl spAs) the first spa resort dates back to 1811 when the Bishop of Zagreb, Maksimilian Vrhovac, financed the construction of the building in stubičke toplice with an indoor swimming pool which was later named after him, “Maksimilianeum”. today it is a prominent spa and rehabilitation centre, equipped with modern medical equipment for providing quality physiotherapy services and medical rehabilitation. the accommodation facilities include the special hospital with three interconnected facilities and a capacity of 267 beds and the hotel Matija Gubec 2* with an indoor pool and a restaurant serving local specialties.

MeđiMurje

Međimurje is Croatia’s northernmost county, the mystic ‘island’ between the rivers Mura and Drava. its capital, Čakovec, once the seat of the Zrinski counts, today is a town of parks and flowers exploding in May with a colourful carpet of peonies. Don’t miss out on Čakovec Castle and the Međimurje Museum housed in the Zrinski Palace. out of town, seek out the last surviving mill from 1902, visit the nearby Miller’s house converted into a museum and walk down the educational Miller’s path that meanders a couple of kilometers along another of the Mura’s striking creations - an oxbow lake. the Međimurje region is known for excellent wines, and there are ample wine routes to explore. look out for pušipel, a noted local wine only made in Međimurje. there’s also a route showcasing traditional crafts. After exploring, take a break at sveti Martin spa Resort by the river Mura. Međimurje cuisine is a world unto itself. Made with local, fresh-off-the-farm ingredients, Međimurje most renowned dishes date back to the 17th century. Definitely try turoš – a cheese with paprika, pretepena juha – thick cream soup, meso z tiblice – cooked cured meat from the wooden barrel, ćurke – white and black sausages. For dessert, dig into the mouth-watering međimurska gibanica, a layer cake made from apples, poppy seeds, walnuts and cream cheese.

varaždin

Varaždin, dating back to the 12th century, was once home to the region’s wealthiest nobles, landowners and artisans, especially in the late 1700s when the city flourished and served as the capital of Croatia. Within and outside Croatia’s borders, Varaždin is well known for its beautifully preserved baroque historic core which hosts the Baroque evenings - a popular annual event. it is a city rich in monuments and art heritage - churches, museums and monasteries… plenty for the avid culture vulture. A walk down the City’s streets will further reveal numerous palaces, villas and one of the oldest city halls in europe. the gothic-renaissance fortress of the Old Town of Varaždin dominates the center, while on the outskirts you’ll find the Varaždin Cemetery with fantastic landscape architecture that counts among the nicest in europe. Don’t miss out on the Museum of Bugs – a great fun for the little ones too. Varaždin’s everyday life is best experienced at the City market, known as ‘Varaždinski plac’. out of town, Lepoglava is known for its beautiful church and delicate bobbin lace; Ludbreg, with its shrine of the holy Blood of Christ is a major pilgrimage place, while the fairy-tale Trakošćan castle with its forest-park and a lake is one of the most romantic places in Croatia. Round up your day with traditional local comforts such as sauerkraut, game dishes, cottage cheese with sour cream, pumpkin seed oil, buckwheat mash and žganica – fiery plum brandy.

karlovac

All major roads in Croatia pass through Karlovac, especially if you’re on your way to the coast. We warmly recommend to make a stop here and explore the city and its surroundings. Karlovac was founded in 1579 as Karlstadt, an important fortress protecting the Austrian empire against the ottoman attacks. the fortress was built in a defensive star shape and the oldest parts of the city lie within. on the old main square, you’ll find the Church of the holy trinity, a Franciscan monastery and the Municipal museum. Karlovac lies on four beautiful rivers, popular for swimming, rafting, canoeing and fishing, and one of Croatia’s best beers, Karlovačko pivo, is brewed here. As of 2016 Karlovac has a unique Freshwater Aquarium situated on the right bank of the Korana river. The Aquatika represents flora and fauna of Croatia’s rivers and lakes with around hundred freshwater fish species, including twenty endemic ones. only 4 km from the centre of Karlovac, in turanj, there is another place of interest – the Museum of the Homeland War. turanj was a strategically important point in the city’s defence and today it serves as a permanent memorial to the War in the 90s. the Museum’s display is presented in a modern and interactive way, with 350 original artifacts, more than three hours of multimedia content, video presentations, animations and films. there is plenty to see in Karlovac’s surrounding – don’t miss the hilltop castle at Ozalj, and Rastoke, a charming traditional village dominated by watermills and waterfalls, a fantastic natural spa that will delight every visitor.

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