History Talk: Master Meštrović

The Meštrović Gallery in Split offers a unique view of the sea and the central Dalmatian islands.

Photo by Ivan Meštrović Museums Archives

every country has its national treasures: people or institutions that define that nation; that make it proud or simply make its people a little gladder to be alive than they would have been otherwise. one of Croatia’s national treasures is undoubtedly the sculptor Ivan Meštrović. in his work you can clearly see the conflicts and passions that made him, like his statues, very much larger than life.

Many of Croatia’s major cities, as well as its small towns and hamlets, boast works that are profound expressions of Meštrović’s powerful and sometimes turbulent character. stand at the foot of the mighty statue of Bishop Gregory of nin in split and the most committed atheist can’t help being instilled with a sense of awe. Gaze at Meštrović’s studies of peasant women, and you can feel the essence of their culture, the artist’s reverence for his roots in the rocky Dalmatian hinterland.

Meštrović was not born in Dalmatia. Around the time of his birth in 1883, his parents moved to the village of Vrpolje in slavonia, eastern Croatia, in search of work. there, his father Mate, a literate man and a skilled mason, found work as a labourer on the new railway. the family moved back to their home village of otavice, just inland from Šibenik, when the young ivan was tiny. Meštrović was very much influenced by his childhood in the place where the Dinaric Alps plunge into the Adriatic sea. the terrain is harsh and rocky: there, working with stone is a natural reflection of people’s connection with their environment. the tough conditions contrast with an austere but starkly beautiful culture. the rhythms of life are expressed in song, dance and crafts and are framed by the forbidding backdrop of pale rock against the dazzling blue sea.

the young Meštrović tended sheep; he drank in the ballads of the villagers and the Bible stories and folk tales his family recited by heart. he tried to carve characters from the stories in wood and stone.

At the age of 17, Meštrović’s talent for carving was noticed by a number of people who raised the money to send him to work as an apprentice under a stonemason named Pavle Bilinić in split. split still today is a living museum with the large and well-preserved palace of the Roman emperor Diocletian forming its core, and a magical mixture of gothic, renaissance, baroque and later architectures. it’s easy to imagine the young Meštrović walking the polished stone flags of the street and gazing up in wonder: he would go on to design some equally splendid buildings himself.

Meštrović continued to show exceptional promise. his supporters from otavice brought his talent to the attention of an Austrian mine-owner in Drniš who helped them raised the money to send Meštrović to the Academy of Fine Arts in Vienna. Before that, however, a new challenge awaited the young sculptor: learning German. it’s worth remembering at this point that Meštrović had never had any formal schooling.

his first years in Vienna were hard since his benefactors reneged on their promises. Meštrović rebelled against some aspects of Academy life, but his years in Vienna were formative, opening his eyes to the intellectual and artistic currents of the time. it was here that he met his first wife Ruža. heeding the advice of Auguste Rodin (who had an enduring respect for the young sculptor), the couple embarked on a life of travel. A number of commissions, including the powerful fountain “the source of life” which today stands in front of the national theatre in Zagreb, enabled Meštrović to spend time in Austria, France, italy, serbia, switzerland, the united Kingdom and the united states.

Meštrović worked and exhibited profusely. in 1903 came the first of many exhibitions with the world-famous Vienna secession group. in 1911 he won the grand prize for sculpture at the international exhibition in Rome, where Gustav Klimt won the first prize for painting. his circle of friends comprised the most renowned artists of the day. he created works which still stand today in countries throughout europe and beyond. Perhaps his most famous works outside Croatia are the spearman and the Bowman (or the “indians”) in Grant Park (Michigan Ave), Chicago. he was among the first living artists to have a solo exhibition in the Victoria and Albert Museum in london (1915) and in the Metropolitan Museum of Art in new York (1947).

Meštrović left Croatia during the second World War after his imprisonment by the pro-nazi wartime regime. After the second World War he refused to live under Yugoslav communist regime so in 1947 he accepted a post at syracuse university, new York state, and in 1955 moved to notre Dame university, south Bend, indiana, where he died in 1962. he was buried in his parents’ village of otavice, Croatia.

During his lifetime, Meštrović became a member of the Croatian Academy of sciences and Arts, the American Academy of Arts and letters and the American institute of Architects, and an honorary member of the Academy of Fine Arts in Vienna. he became an American citizen in 1954. his legacy includes hundreds of sculptures, medals, monuments and public buildings all over the world.

ten years before he died, he made a gift of the bulk of his life’s work to the nation, including his family homes in split and Zagreb and chapels in split and otavice. these are now ivan Meštrović Museums and are open to the public.

The chocolaTe museum zagreb

The sweetest of Zagreb museums is a definite must for all chocolate lovers and for those who wish to explore the history of one of the most favourite tastes and flavours on Earth. The moment you step inside, you will be swept off your feet by the beautiful and creative interior that spreads through six historic zones. Each zone consists of unique scenery, musical background, historical artifacts, interactive educational spots and savouring stations.

A CHoColATE-TAsTINg box INsTEAD oF A TICKET instead of the usual entry ticket, you will be given a chocolate-tasting box with various types of chocolates, starting with a cacao bean, the most essential ingredient of chocolate. While following the circular layout of the museum, you will stop at special savouring stations to try a particular chocolate from your ‘entrance ticketBox’ and learn more about each sample’s history and production. the adventurous journey through time and space will thus engage all senses – sight, smell, touch, hearing and taste.

FroM MEsoAMErICA To THE EuropEAN CourTs the historical path at the Museum begins with the cocoa beans produced in Mesoamerica by the olmecs, Mayas and Aztecs thousands of years ago, followed by the story of the spanish conquistadors who brought chocolate to the european courts, and eventually brings us to the Belgian, swiss, Dutch and english chocolatiers who created the chocolate we treasure and love today. the latest invention in the ‘world of chocolate’ which you will also have a chance to try at the end of your journey, is Ruby Chocolate, becoming very popular worldwide. THE lAborATory Don’t be surprised when you come across the ‘laboratory’ – a special area of the Museum. here, one can learn about the production process, will be able to smell and touch ingredients and occasionally see a demonstration showing chocolate tempering and praline creation.

WIlly WoNKA the Museum also provides a chance for every visitor, regardless of age, to turn into Willy Wonka for a moment. As you probably know, Willy Wonka is a fictional character from Roald Dahl’s children’s book Charlie and the Chocolate Factory from 1964. his famous bike has been displayed at the Museum, and by sitting on it, you are guaranteed a big happy smile on your face that will rejuvenate you instantly! THE CHoColATE bouTIquE the interactive Chocolate Museum of Zagreb offers diverse, but also fun facts, history, hands-on chocolate experiences, workshops and finally, exceptional products displayed in a chic gift shop that takes pride in offering for purchase, a variety of assorted, handmade chocolates from distinguished Croatian and slovenian chocolatiers.

TuEsDAy WAlK WITH CurATors note that every tuesday at 6:45 pm you can join a ‘tuesday walk’ with expert guidance of the Museum’s curators. immerse into the World of Chocolate and engage all senses!

Ljelje are girls from the village of Gorjani near Đakovo, who in the spring, on the feast of Pentecost, dressed as queens, would visit the village and perform a ritual composed of special songs and sword dancing

Photo by International Folklore Festival Archives

Eastern Croatia

Rich agricultural plains and wooded hills combine to make eastern Croatia one of the best parts of the country for a relaxed touring holiday. Baroque cities, birdinfested wetlands and spectacular archeological finds ensure that there is plenty to discover.

Photo by Marin Topić, Osijek Tourist Board Archives

baranja

Some travellers frequently make the mistake of assuming that a predominantly flat landscape is a predominantly boring landscape. As if you need a horizon-splicing selection of hills and mountains in order to make a place worth visiting at all. The Croatian Baranja, which stretches to the north of Osijek, is the ideal place to come and challenge these prejudices. A green triangle of flatland set between the Danube, the Sava River, and the Hungarian border, Baranja is filled with unspoiled villages and natural charms, and when it comes to rural tourism, it is one of Croatia’s fastest-growing areas. As a treasure box of distinctive paprika-spiced recipes and increasingly excellent wines, the Baranja is also becoming a byword for gastronomic excellence.

Spread out across the Baranja plain is a sequence of characteristically long and straggling villages, consisting largely of one-storey houses with colonnaded porches garlanded with drying red peppers. There is a significant Hungarian minority in the villages north of Osijek, and most of the road signs are bilingual: Hungarian national poet Sándor Petőfi appears to have more streets named after him than anyone else here. Many of the villages of the Baranja have a Protestant as well as a Catholic church, a reminder of the time when Calvinism was strong among the Hungarian-speaking peasantry.

pAprIKA-bAsED CuIsINE Baranja is a major heartland of the paprika-laden cuisine that is common to eastern Croatia and neighbouring hungary, with dishes like čobanac, paprikaš and perkelt (hot red stews that in english-speaking countries might be grouped under the generic name of goulash) appearing on every menu, from fancy restaurants to roadside bistros. one of the region’s main sources of culinary wealth is the rich stock of freshwater fish provided by the Danube and Drava rivers, including catfish, pike perch and carp that form the ideal ingredients for fiš paprikaš, a local speciality. it is a soupy paprika-based stew featuring huge chunks of (usually deboned) fish cooked in a spicy red liquid. Dishes like fiš paprikaš and its slightly thicker cousin perkelt are usually served with flat pasta (tagliatelle), and most establishments provide diners with a bib to prevent the otherwise inevitable embarrassment of leaving the table with stains all over their attire.

FooDIE HoT spoTs indeed the Baranja’s goulash repertoire is so good nowadays that culinary tourists from hungary frequently cross the border to taste it. one of the prime gourmet destinations is Suza, east of Kneževi Vinogradi, a typical Baranja village in which locals sit on benches watching the world go by and gossiping in hungarian, occasionally uttering a friendly ‘dobar dan’ when a stranger walks by. At the western end of the village is an inn named Piroš Čizma (hungarian for “red boots”) run by Šimić family who bring to the table typical dishes of Baranja. At the eastern end of the village is Kovač Čarda (“Kovač’s tavern”), an increasingly popular destination for culinary pilgrims eager to try some of the highest-regarded fiš paprikaš in Croatia. the Šipec family who own the place are known for their fish specialities. Apart from fiš paprikaš, one can try the thicker variation, perkelt, or nibble on carp cracklings. Kovač Čarda’s dining room walls are covered with framed prize-winning diplomas from major paprika-cooking contests, notably from Kalocsa, the red-pepper capital of southern hungary.

FIŠ pAprIKAŠ the best fiš paprikaš is made with three types of freshwater fish (carp, catfish and pike) cooked together in a kettle over an open fire. Fiš, just like its meat cousin čobanac (paprika-based meat stew), contains high amounts of powdered paprika, both sweet and hot. it is served with wide tagliatelle-like pasta. Connoisseurs of fiš frequently treat the dish as a two-course meal: first, the red liquid is poured over the noodles and eaten as a soup; the chunks of fish are placed on a side plate to be eaten separately as the main course. the fish is cooked complete with bones, skin, fins and a bit of the head to ensure a full taste – using a mixture of knife, fork and fingers to get at the meat is a perfectly acceptable way to proceed. Fiš is usually cooked in portions for two or more because the ingredients demand it: those who are dining alone will just have to order a twoperson portion and eat as much as they can. there is a witty quote (for every foodie to learn) that says: “Fish swims three times: first in the water, then in the kettle, and eventually in wine.” bArANjA WINEs talking about wine, both suza and the neighbouring village of Zmajevac hug the southern slopes of the Banska Kosa, a long low ridge covered with some of the most productive vineyards in eastern Croatia. long famed for its dry white Graševina (known elsewhere as Welschriesling), the Banska Kosa is increasingly home to a new generation of boutique wineries eager to both introduce grape varieties new to the region and to increase the quality of what is already there.

bIggEsT WINE proDuCEr – bEljE the Baranja’s biggest wine producer is Belje, which produces over 4 million litres of wine in the good years. their wine cellars in Kneževi Vinogradi, complete with a large wine-tasting hall, are perfect for visits by groups. their twostorey wine cellar, dating from 1526, is one of the oldest surviving cellars in Croatia and Baranja’s largest gator (wine cellar typical of the Danube Basin). it spreads across three floors on an area that totals 1,200 sqm with wooden barrels made of slavonian oak from the forests of spačva. the cellars boast a rich wine archive with more than 20,000 representative samples. the cellars also feature a wine store and a wine tasting room for wines and traditionally cured meat products from Baranja. the standard tour includes a visit to the cellars + wine tasting (45 kn per person; 1 hour). shopping possibility at the adjacent wine shop.

Photo by Marin Topić, Osijek Tourist Board Archives

ExCITINg NEW WINE-MAKErs the new generation of Baranja wine producers is exemplified by the Josić winery in Zmajevac, founded by the osijek-based wine enthusiast Damir Josić. new technology made it possible for small wineries like Josić to focus on quality production in an economically viable way. Producing good-quality Graševina, the predominant local grape variety, was Josić’s main aim but today he also produces imported varieties such as Cabernet sauvignon, Merlot and shiraz. his cuvee Ciconia nigra (“Black stork”), blending Cabernet sauvignon, Pinot noir and Cabernet Franc, is one of his most popular labels. Josić was also far-sighted enough to combine his winemaking business with a cosy restaurant housed in one of the surduks, or wine-storing tunnels cut into the sandy soil of the Banska kosa ridge. thus he is bringing together the main elements that Baranja-bound tourists are here to sample – excellent wines and traditional mouthwatering local cuisine.

east of Zmajevac the Banska kosa ridge comes to an abrupt halt when it meets the river Danube, which today marks the border between Croatia and the serbian province of Vojvodina. the town of Batina on the Croatian bank of the Danube is dominated by a huge World War ii memorial. Batina is also the home town of the Kazalić winery, another quality producer known for both classic reds like Cabernet sauvignon and Pinot noir and traditional local whites such as Graševina and traminac.

KArANAC VIllAgE – TrADITIoN & CHArM Another of Baranja’s hit destinations is Karanac, a typical one-street village northwest of Kneževi Vinogradi with a more generous than usual sprinkling of traditional onestorey houses. one of Karanac’s traditional farmsteads was purchased by osijek-based tourism pioneer Denis sklepić in 2000, who renovated this charming 19th century rural homestead and transformed it into one of the first ruralstyle B&Bs in the region. You can also visit their living history house that will instantly transport you some hundred and fifty years back.

up the road from sklepić’s place, the Baranjska kuća restaurant doesn’t just serve up some of the best in east-Croatian cuisine, but also houses a private ethnographic collection, stuffed with domestic implements and craft tools assembled over the years by the restaurant’s owner. tuck into warm shepherd’s pie cooked in a clay oven, or if you are feeling brave, why not try snails cooked in nettle sauce?

KopačKi rit

Kopački rit is characterized by exceptional landscape beauty and great biodiversity.

NATurE rEsErVE sINCE 1976 Just 10 km northeast of Osijek, Kopački rit is one of the largest and best preserved river floodplains in europe. Placed in the corner formed by the river Danube and its tributary Drava, it is something of a paradise for wading birds and their admirers. Depending on the water level, the water of these two rivers constantly shapes and changes the look of Kopački Rit, creating a beautiful mosaic of lakes, canals, ponds, floodplain forests, reed beds and wet meadows. therefore, in 1976 this area was declared a nature Reserve (Park prirode) which makes it the first nature park in Croatia. the 23 000-hectare (232 km2) expanse of lakes, reeds, woodland and pasture is widely known as a habitat for numerous waterfowl birds and the most significant inhabitant – white tailed eagle, which is also a symbol of the Park. the whole Park is criss-crossed by dyke-top roads, making it easily accessible to the daytripper.

FlorA AND FAuNA there are two permanent lakes here, sakadaš and Kopačko, each surrounded by reedy vegetation. semi-sunken forests of white willow thrive in the low-lying parts of Kopački rit, while poplar, oak and elm cover the higher ground. Kopački rit is the largest spawning ground of fish native to this part of the Danube Basin. the Park’s fish fauna comprises more than 50 freshwater species, with european carp, northern pike, wels catfish and zander being the most common ones, alongside an abundance of frogs, snails and insects. During the course of the year Kopački rit might be visited by as many as 300 bird species. of these, 140 species nest here regularly, the rest are spring and summer migrants. it’s the fish-eating birds that flourish most, with herons, cormorants, white-tailed sea eagles and egrets congregating around lakes sakadaš and Kopačko. But it’s not only the birds and fish that abide here. According to currently-available research, mammal fauna of Kopački Rit comprises 55 species, which is more than a half of the total mammal species of Croatia. Reed beds stretching as far as the eye can see, ponds, flooded forests and wet meadows all provide optimal living conditions for many mammals, such as the red deer, roe deer, wild boar, wildcat, otter, beaver, badger and many more.

THE NAME oF THE pArK the name of the Park (Kopački rit) stems from two hungarian words: kapocs, which means link, and ret, which means meadow in hungarian. the role of today’s link between wetland meadows is played by wooden bridges that allow visitors to enter deep into the area of the Park, which is a natural phenomenon of biodiversity. gETTINg ArouND the park is easy to get to: if you’re driving, head north from osijek as far as the village of Bilje, turn right at the main crossroads, and follow the signs to “Park prirode Kopački rit”. there’s a cycle path running alongside the osijek-Bilje road, making it a pleasant two-wheel jaunt. those with no wheels whatsoever will need to grab a taxi (15 min ride) from the nearby city of osijek. the main entrance to the Reserve is at the Visitors’ Centre (Prijemni centar), a traditionalstyle thatched hut just north of the village of Kopačevo, where you pay an entrance fee and receive an englishlanguage information leaflet.

The entrance ticket includes: • Visit to the interactive exhibition about the flora and fauna of the Park • Walk along the White Water-Lily boardwalk • Free parking • Free wi-fi • Usage of the restrooms • Usage of playground Entrance ticket: 10 kn Entrance ticket + 15-minute presentation of the Park: 20 kn per person (min. 10 pax). Working hours: Jan, Feb, Mar, nov, Dec: 8 a.m. – 4 p.m.; Apr - nov: 9 a.m. – 5 p.m.

WHITE WATEr-lIly boArDWAlK the best way to start your visit in Kopački rit is by walking along the White Water-lily boardwalk. the boardwalk leads you from the Visitors Centre to sakadaš lake, site of a partially sunken forest where you’re likely to spot cormorants and herons. this walk lasts for 20-30 min. Along the boardwalk there are educational signs with photographs and descriptions of plants, animals and other characteristics of this habitat, describing the rich eco system of the wetland. You can also choose a guided tour of the Park. “Bridges of Kopački rit” guided tour includes: visit to the interactive exhibition on flora and fauna of the Park, walk along the White Water-lily boardwalk, presentation of the Park and a local guide. Duration: about 1,5 hours; Price: 50 kn per person (minimum 10 pax)

boAT/CANoE Tours By far the best way to see the park is to take a boat trip with a local guide. it’s important to ring the visitor’s centre to enquire about these in advance rather than just turning up on spec – the boat trips in particular don’t depart at a regular time every day of the week. At the quay by sakadaš lake, you will set out on an exciting journey through the special Zoological Reserve. The boat tour lasts for approximately 1 hour. You will experience the wondrous world of the Danube’s floodplain accompanied by a professional guide. Price: 150 kn per person. The canoe tours also start at sakadaš quay and last for 1 or 2 hours. Visitors paddle on their own through the special Zoological Reserve, while a professional guide is ensured during the tour. Canoe tours can be organized from March 15 to october 31. Price: 100 or 200 kn depending on the duration of the tour (1-2 hrs).

rENT A bIKE Cycling enthusiasts can rent a bike in the Park and spend a thrilling and fun-packed day riding a bike along various bike routes that lead you through the beautiful nature of the Park. Price for bike renting: 1h – 30 kn, up to 3h – 60 kn, up to 6h – 80 kn.

bIrD WATCHINg Different bird watching tours can be organized within the Park by boat, on foot or with a terrain vehicle, depending on the season and water level. Among the most important ornithological values of Kopački rit that will be presented on the tour is the largest nesting area of the White-tailed eagle in this part of europe, the largest Cormorant and Grey heron colony in Croatia and other. Group size: maximum 10 pax. Duration: minimum one hour (for professionals, at least 3 hours recommended). the best period for bird watching tours is from April to June or from August to october and it is necessary to make a reservation in advance. pp-kopacki-rit.hr KopAčEVo VIllAgE A small village called Kopačevo is located southeast of the Visitor’s Centre and you will easily reach it after walking along the boardwalk. the settlement of Kopačevo is a fishing village located right next to the flood areas of Kopački rit, half immersed in water, half based on land, as has been the case since prehistoric times. it’s a wonderfully preserved example of a typical slavonian settlement, with neat rows of picturesque single-storey farmhouses, many with strings of red paprika hanging outside to dry. Ground paprika is the main ingredient of many dishes in this area. Given the fact that they were no longer able to engage in fishing, vegetable growing remained as the only branch of agriculture providing quality yields. the people of Kopačevo turned into masters of vegetable growing, and they remain masters of it until the present day. the Zelena Žaba restaurant in Kopačevo is one of the best places in the region to eat fiš perkelt, the dangerously spiced stew comprising huge chunks of catfish or pike-perch.

TIKVEŠ CAsTlE CoMplEx About 8km north of Lake Sakadaš are the oak forests of Tikveš, thronging with wild boar, deer, and secretive black storks. in the middle of the forest is the palatial, red-brick tikveš hunting lodge (Dvorac tikveš), built by the teschen line of the habsburg family, taken over by the serbian royal family after World War i, and subsequently used by the communist leader Josip Broz tito. Perhaps appropriately for a location long associated with spraying the local fauna with gunshot, tikveš now hosts conservation-oriented seminars organized by the european environmental Centre (europski centar za okoliš). Visits to tikveš Castle Complex are not possible at present due to construction works that will last until the end of the year 2021.

WINE AND DINE IN KopAčKI rIT Returning towards the Visitor’s Centre you’ll pass the Kormoran restaurant, set in a hunting lodge, surrounded by greenery and ponds. Decorated in a traditional style, with large oak tables and wooden chairs, like most restaurants in Baranja, the offer is based on freshwater fish dishes (perch, carp, pike and catfish) prepared in various ways (fish paprikash, a widely known carp on fork, catfish perkelt), venison and other local specialties, primarily cured meat products of pork (kulen). some dishes are prepared in the open hearths and in the kettles. Wine is dominated by those of Belje wineries.

oN THE WAy bACK The castle of Eugene Prince of Savoy if you are heading back to osijek via Bilje after the Park visit, you can’t fail to notice the handsome ochre castle at the eastern end of Bilje village. it was built at the beginning of the 18th century to serve as a hunting lodge for the greatest of the Austrian army’s commanders, Prince eugene of savoy. he allegedly used Johann lukas von hildebrandt as his architect, the same hildebrandt who built the famous Belvedere palace for eugene of savoy in Vienna. the castle is currently under renovation.

Photo by Dominik Lalić

osijek

on the banks of the River Drava, osijek is the largest city in slavonia, a region of rich agricultural land and vibrant gastronomic and cultural traditions. the name of the city comes from the Croatian word “oseka” which means “ebb tide” and is connected to the town’s position on an elevated ground which prevented the city from being flooded.

the city is defined by its city walls, co-cathedral of St Peter and St Paul, parks and fine art nouveau buildings lining the city’s main artery. The Osijek Citadel is the oldest part of the city; its baroque buildings are home to museums, galleries, churches, cafés, restaurants and nightclubs - and therefore osijek’s citizens of all ages.

the riverside café terraces are also perfect for relaxing after sightseeing: from here you have a view of the modern pedestrian suspension bridge. Cool off in hot weather at the Copacabana open air pools.

in the surrounding Baranja countryside, the Kopački rit Nature Park is a wetland area offering a wildlife paradise. its unique floodplain habitat interwoven with lakes and marshland provides optimal living conditions for numerous species and lots of cycling and walking trails for the visitors to explore.

in Baranja region you will find yourself amid some of the best vineyards in the country as well as some excellent restaurants and farmsteads that will surely tempt your palate.

osijek Top sighTs

Co-CATHEDrAl oF sT pETEr AND pAul the multi-tiered 90-metre spire of this red-brick neo-Gothic beast provides the city with its defining visual trade-mark. the church was built in the 1890s on the initiative of energetic Đakovo-based Bishop Josip Juraj strossmayer, who reckoned that a 3000-capacity parish church was just what a growing town like osijek needed. the church is entered via a small door to the right of the main portal, overlooked by a ferocious-looking trio of gargoyles. the interior is a treasure trove of neo-gothic ornamentation, with a succession of pinnacled altars overlooked by exuberant stained glass windows. the interior was finished off in 1938-42 when leading Croatian painter Mirko Rački covered the walls and ceilings with brightly coloured frescoes illustrating episodes from the old and new testaments - most of which will be easily identifiable to anyone who paid attention during Bible class.

THE DrAVA rIVErFroNT the River Drava is an essential part of osijek’s character and its difficult to see how the locals would survive without strolling along its southern bank at least a couple of times a week. Main focus of activity is the Zimska luka (“Winter harbour”), a row of boat moorings below the hotel osijek where you’ll find a handful of floating restaurants, and a row of cubby-hole cafés which explode out onto the pavement in spring and summer. From here, pedestrians and cyclists glide eastwards along Šetalište Franje Šepera, the riverside embankment that leads past a sequence of flowerbeds and grassy parks. At the eastern end of the embankment, the sight of the red-brick tvrđa fortress district rising out of the surrounding greenery is truly wondrous to behold.

TVrĐA An eighteenth-century complex of cobbled streets, grandiose buildings and open squares, tvrđa (“Citadel”) is the bestpreserved ensemble of Baroque buildings anywhere in Croatia. it began life in 1687, when habsburg armies kicked ottoman forces out of osijek and decided to turn the town into the military nerve-centre of eastern slavonia. Austrian engineers demolished most of the existing buildings, moved the city center westwards to today’s Gornji Grad, and spent the next 35 years building a planned settlement comprising barracks, staff headquarters, churches and monasteries, all surrounded by a state-of-the-art system of moats, bastions and gun positions. Most of the outer fortifications have long since been demolished, but the heart of the tvrđa still survives in its original form. At the centre of tvrđa is trg svetog trojstva (holy trinity square), a broad traffic-free expanse dominated on the northern side by a monumental threestorey building that once housed the habsburg high command. on the western side, the arcaded house with a spindly lookout tower originally accommodated osijek’s town guard. stretching either side of the square is a grid-plan of streets, each lined with elegant ochre-colored buildings where Austrian bureaucrats once toiled over their military plans. A zig-zagging stretch of the outer fortifications still survives on the northeastern edge of tvrđa. head down the street Fakultetska to find the Water Gate (Vodena vrata), one of the last surviving fortress gates, which leads through to the grass-fringed banks of the River Drava.

Photo by Marin Topić, Osijek Tourist Board Archives

Photo by Marin Topić, Osijek Tourist Board Archives

Photo by Damir Rajle Photo by Antonela Martinčević Photo by Osijek Tourist Board Archives

vukovar

on the very eastern tip of Croatia, situated on the banks of rivers Danube and Vuka, lies the city of Vukovar, a place that has always been a melting pot of different cultures, but also a battleground in wars. sadly, the war in the 1990s turned it into a symbol of devastation, but also a symbol of resistance and persistence. today, when the wounds have slowly healed, Vukovar is a symbol of peace and courage and a beautiful baroque town.

the most impressive baroque building is the Eltz palace housing the Municipal museum with a huge collection of art. Another landmark is the Water tower, a frequent target of the serb artillery, today a symbol of victory.

Five kilometres downstream on the Danube is the archaeological site of Vučedol with traces of a 5000-year-old civilisation. the iconic Vučedol dove found on site, is a symbol of the town and also a very popular Croatian souvenir. Vukovar’s murals and 3D street art are to the urban traveler what the baroque city center is to culture tourism buffs. Rather than being mutually exclusive, the two are perfectly complementary, weaving the most beautiful tale of the city lying on two rivers.

inside Tips

MusEuM oF VučEDol CulTurE A valuable and rich archeological digging place is situated on the coast of the Dunav, not far from Vukovar. Come visit the museum and get to learn of the culture of the civilization’s who once lived here, and see why it draws archeologists from all over the world. vucedol.hr

pArK ForEsT ADICA A favorite promenade of Vukovar residents; great for relaxation, enjoyment in nature, green scenery, activities on the walkways, obstacle courses, wooden exercise equipment, and here you can also find the eko etno Club with traditional craft collections. vukovarnadlanu.com

požEgA CATHEDrAl A magnificent late baroque sacral structure, dedicated to st. teresa of Avila, protector of Maria teresa, who herself sent the blueprint for its construction. pozeska-biskupija.hr

THE spAHIjA CEllAr the spahija, or spanish, cellar is one of the most impressive objects in Pakrac. Various myths and legends spoke of a secret passage from its underground that leads to the fort of Čaklovac, partially remodelled, but without a doubt extremely interesting. tz-pakrac.hr DAruVAr - THE CITy oF orCHIDs Fans of flora and fauna ought to visit Julijev Park which rejuvenates the city and is filled with vast types of orchids depending on the season. Do not miss the Castle of Count Jankovich located in the centre itself. visitdaruvar.hr

THErMAl WATEr pArK AquAE bAlIssAE if you are in the area this is a worthy escape from the summer heat! indoor and outdoor pools, thermal water, geysers, slides, spas, a restaurant, and a tropical bar. Made for a great family day out! aquae-balissae.hr

THE HoME oF IVANA brlIć MAžurANIć in the centre of the city you can find the home of ivana Brlić Mažuranić - where she lived after she married - the author of children’s books who is celebrated worldwide. her works are translated into many languages, such as the novel ‘the Adventures of the Apprentice lapitch’, which was later adapted as an animated film. tzgsb.hr

KAZAMATI - broD ForT in the western curtain wall of the Fort a few gun emplacements have been renovated such that when you enter you will feel a breath of history and get a clearer picture of one part of the lives of people from this region; not only soldiers, but those who worked in the baking trades, blacksmithing, and so on. tzbpz.hr

pETNjA lAKE An artificial lake, 7km northwest of slavonski Brod, enchants with its appearance, forest surrounding, walking trails, fishing opportunities, rowing and other water sports, and clear air. tzbpz.hr

olANoVIć sTAblEs A horse farm with some twenty horses of the lipik breed, located on an estate that sits 8,500m2 in area. in Poljanci, with a tour of the horse farm, horseback riding is also possible, as is riding on country wheels and a barouche (horse drawn carriage).

pApuK NATurE pArK this is a protected area which encompasses the mountains of Papuk and Krndija, providing enough terrain for an active vacation. the remains of old cities such as Ružica Grad, with its fascinating legend of disappearance, and the Arboretum lisičine prove most intriguing for the many who seek mystery. pp-papuk.hr

sTEppE VIŠNjICA the steppes are large agricultural lands that are traditionally used for pasture and the breeding of livestock. this one, dating from the 19th century, was reconstructed in 2005 and is now a beautiful estate with horses, mouflons, a garden of medicinal plants, and a home-style kitchen. the area is always being improved so its likely you’ll see new features year after year. visnjica.hr

ŠArAN u rAŠljAMA is a speciality of Slavonian Baranja cuisine and according to many the greatest gastronomic delicacy of this area.

Photo by Supetar Tourist Board Archives

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Photo by Supetar Tourist Board Archives

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Photo by Ravni Kotari Tourist Board Archives

10 auThenTic culTural Food experiences

1 KoMIŠKA or VIŠKA pogAčA if you keep out a sharp eye you might come across a pogača hailing from the island of Vis, a flattish breadcake containing a mixture of salted anchovies and onion, plus tomato, capers and herbs depending on the version

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prIsNAC Prisnac is the nemesis of anyone trying to stick to a low-cholesterol diet. A voluptuous mix of soft cheese, eggs, cream and a little sugar is enveloped in a bread base to create a golden, gently sweetish cake. it has been prepared in the hinterland region around Benkovac for centuries.

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VArENIK An unusual ingredient called Varenik is thought to have been made on Brač for 2000 years – it was mentioned during Roman times. it’s made by boiling red wine down to a concentrate, which is then stored in bottles and added to all sorts of foods, sweet and savoury, to impart a unique and rich flavour. During the time of the Varenik festival, dishes are prepared showcasing the use of this ingredient, and the island’s restaurants have a range of specials on the menu.

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VITAlAC Vitalac is listed as an item of nonmaterial cultural heritage in Croatia. A skewer is threaded with small pieces of kidney, lung or what have you, salted and wrapped in soft piece of muscle tissue, gently barbecued, then wrapped in a piece of intestine and roasted for a further hour until crispy on the outside. For best results, the victim should be a little baby lamb not even weaned from its mother’s milk… sniff! the resulting sausage-shaped delicacy is removed from the skewer, salted, sliced and served warm. the administration of lashings of extra virgin olive oil makes the ingestion of this almost bearable for those who are not fans of offal.

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sopArNIK soparnik is an old-fashioned Dalmatian dish dating back to the time before the turks invaded the region. it is a simple dish made by filling two layers of fillo dough with swiss chard, onions, parsley, garlic and olive oil. traditionally, it was prepared on round wooden plates over

Photo by Monika Vrgoč

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Photo by Roca Restaurant Archives

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Photo by Matko Petrić

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Photo by Višnja Arambašić

a stone hearth on days for fasting, such as Good Friday, Christmas eve or the Feast of All saints. soparnik comes from the former “Peasants’ Republic,” Poljica, which existed in the late Middle Ages, near modern-day omiš, and was prepared to treat guests and friends. over the years, it has become a symbol of old Poljica. once a meal for peasants, it is now a prestigious delicatessen and has been registered Protected Geographical indication (PGi) recently.

6 ArAMbAŠIćI Aramabašići a speciality originating in sinj, a little way inland. these are little soured cabbage parcels containing beef (and sometimes pork), cooked in a broth with smoked dried meats. these, or their cousins sarma, are a must at every special occasion, as is a spit-roast lamb.

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pEKA You might get a turkey (tuka) roasted peka style, under an iron lid heaped with embers. local turkeys are small and athletic, very different from the big white industrially-farmed birds. Roasted like this with potatoes they’re succulent and delicious.

8 ŠurlICE Šurlice, a speciality from the island of Krk which you’ll find throughout the region. this is a type of pasta made by wrapping the dough around a knitting needle. handmade pasta with a rich sauce is always a pleasure, and there are many different sauces to choose from, though we’d say goulash is probably a classic.

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KoNAVosKA ZElENA MENEsTrA A selection of cured meats (pork, mutton, sausage) is cooked up with winter greens and potato. When finished, the meat is served on a plate and the smokily scented veg dished up with a little of the soupy liquid and lashings of olive oil. this dish dates from the 16th century; for added historical effect substitute barley for potato. Fast forward to springtime when broad beans are ready for picking: try them cooked with smoked mutton, garlic, parsley and bacon fat.

10 FIŠ pAprIKAŠ Fiš paprikaš is a cooked stew thats combines chillis, onions, various spices and a diverse range of freshly caught river fish.

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Photo by Ana Marija Bujić

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Photo by Višnja Arambašić

oilY Fish

If you find yourself on a Friday at s fish market, you will surely notice the largest queue at the stands selling fresh sardines and anchovies. It is these types of oily fish that are sold the most, both because they are rather cheap, but more importantly, extremely healthy. In saying that, even if small oily fish such as sardines may catch the eye it is dentex, bream and bass that are highly sought after. So, it would seem that people survive on oily fish whilst dreaming of eating white fish, and for that matter, large tasty portions of it. To put it mildly, this is a somewhat unfair attitude towards a category of fish that has nurtured and raised generations along the entire coastline. It has high nutritional value, and historically it has fed many people in these parts because it is cheap and widely available.

Oily fish is not just to be thrown on the barbecue, but one can work hundreds of miracles with it. We suggest a simple dish, as prepared on the Adriatic islands, and it can stay in the fridge for a long time and be eaten as a cold appetizer.

Ingredients 500g sardines 250g purple onion 0.75l wine vinegar 150ml olive oil 3 bay leaves 1 sprig rosemary 1 teaspoon sugar parsley leaf sharp flour oil, salt, peppercorns

Preparation steps Clean the sardines (remove the head and flakes). Add salt, roll in flour and fry in oil. Place on kitchen paper to soak up excess fat. in another pan on olive oil, brown the onion chopped into crescents. season with salt, pepper, bay leaf and rosemary. Add raisins: and if you don’t like them, you can do without and the boiled savur. Make savur from olive oil, yeast, water, a little parsley, lemon zest, a little sugar, sprigs of rosemary, bay leaf and peppercorns. Place the roasted sardines in a bowl and pour the chilled savur over them. You can keep sardines prepared in this way for up to a week or two in the refrigerator

Serving serve cold and garnish with lemon slices.

Advice You can also prepare a larger blue fish in the same way, just cut it into smaller pieces.

Istra & Primorje

A unique concentration of riches is contained within this section of the country, with the historical treasures of the heart-shaped peninsula of istria, the beaches and islands of Primorje’s Kvarner Gulf, and the majestic peaks and forests of the Gorski kotar.

10 WaYs To discover The magic oF isTria

Despite its compact size, the Istrian peninsula is one of the most varied regions that Croatia has to offer, with a stunning variety of landscapes, cultures and attractions. Here are just ten of the destinations that make the region so special.

National Park Brijuni - Photo by Nenad Reberšak

THE lIM FjorD Cutting into the western coast of istria is a wondrously beautiful inlet known as the Limski kanal or Lim Channel. Popularly dubbed the lim Fjord due to its resemblance to the norwegian coast, it is in fact a 10km-long estuary of a local river, the Pazinčica. edged by steep greygreen slopes that in places reach a height of 150 metres, this stunning natural feature is a popular target for boat trips from the nearby resorts of Poreč and Rovinj. one historical personality who is rumored to have come here on a boat trip and stayed is seventeenth-century Welsh swashbuckler henry Morgan, whose alleged descendants live in the village of Mrgani above the fjord’s northern rim. the italian adventurer and teller of tall tales Giacomo Casanova briefly stayed at the nearby hillside town of Vrsar, noting the region’s “good wine and beautiful women’ in his memoirs. By way of tribute to the Venetian charmer, a popular biking trail from Vrsar to the lim Fjord is known as the “Casanova Way”. the Fjord is also famous for its oysters, which are served in a couple of renowned restaurants down by the shore. lim’s fjord-like features were put to good use in hollywood Viking movie the long ships (starring Richard Widmark and sidney Poitier), filmed here in 1963. pICTurEsquE ToWNs inland istria, with its green valleys overlooked by puddingshaped heights, is famous for its medieval hilltop towns, many of which preserve their narrow alleys and grizzled grey-brown defensive walls. Arguably the most dramatic of these is the summit-straddling town of Motovun, a perfectly preserved medieval townlet with a picturesque main square and gobsmacking views from its battlements. it is also the traditional home of the Motovun Film Festival, Croatia’s most prestigious international movie event. Motovun fills up quickly in summer and is full of shops and cafes serving trippers. equally ancient near-neighbours such as Grožnjan and Oprtalj are more laid back, but no less photogenic.

KoTlI Midway between Buzet and the tiny historic town of Hum, the river Mirna has carved its limestone bed into a sequence of bowls, cataracts and shallow pools. Known as Kotli (‘the cauldrons’), the locality is also home to a string of disused watermills and a half-abandoned village of cute stone houses and narrow alleys. the river, with its rock formations, is a cult place to watch the swirling waters, and the surrounding terrain is full of woodland trails. some of the stone houses have been converted into self-catering holiday apartments, and there are a couple of waterside café-restaurants open in summer. For a relaxing holiday in the wilds, there are few better places.

lAbIN Another old hilltop town with a tangle of evocative alleys, labin is also famous as the centre of one of Croatia’s most important coal-mining regions, although the exhausted mine workings were closed in 1988. Down in the valley beneath the Old Town, the former pithead still serves as an urban landmark, the name “tito” famously spelled out in steel bars at the summit of the winding tower. since the closure of the mines labin has reinvented itself as a centre of contemporary art, with a sprinkling of galleries in the old town and an arts festival that takes over the place in summer. A more recent innovation is the industrial Art Biennale, which explores the nature of culture in post-industrial spaces and has placed the town on the international culture map. lovers of beach life should not despair: the welcoming resort-settlement of Rabac lies just 3km downhill.

roMAN pAlACEs AT MEDulIN Primarily known for its long sandy beach and shallow paddler-friendly waters, the town of Medulin south of Pula has an important historical claim to fame. spread across the lush green peninsula of Vižula just north of the beach are the ruins of an ancient Roman palace complex, comprising seashore colonnades complete with ancillary buildings, and a small port where supplies of wine and victuals were unloaded. it’s an evocative spot, suggesting the admittedly rather enticing idea that Medulin was an elite resort a full 2000 years before the modern era of sun-loungers and suntan lotion. A path leads around the peninsula, passing several snazzily-designed wooden pavilions where visitors can rest, take snacks, or inspect fragments of floor mosaics. During the tourist season, virtual reality goggles can be hired from a kiosk at the entrance to the peninsula providing visitors with an enhanced idea of what the Roman-holiday experience might have been like. A short visit here and you’ll soon be measuring up material for your new toga.

brIjuNI Another place where wealthy Romans went on holiday is Brijuni, the offshore archipelago opposite the fishing port of Fažana whose main island boasts a handsome clutch of ancient villas and temples. Centuries after the Romans’ departure the islands were bought by Viennese industrialist Karl Kupelwieser, who turned main island Veli Brijun into a landscaped park complete with luxury hotel settlement, beachside pavilion, and wildlife reserve planned by zoo pioneer and exotic animal dealer Carl hagenbeck. top habsburg aristocracy and the artistic elite flocked to Brijuni before World War i, and it became a popular polo-playing and golfing resort during the inter-war years. Following World War ii Brijuni was reserved for fauna of a different kind: Yugoslav ruler Josip Broz tito built a summer house on the island of Vanga, while communist functionaries stayed in Kupelwieser’s former hotels. now a national park (you can stay on the island or enjoy a day-trip from Fažana), Brijuni remains a unique example of partly natural, partly man-made paradise, stocked with plants and animals from all over the world and offering a strong whiff of history at every turn. CApE KAMENjAK When people start asking bout Croatia’s best beaches they often entertain a mental picture of ribbons of sand, or sweeping crescents of pebble. however the true glory of the Croatian coast lies in its wealth of angular rocks and boulders, perfect perches for sizzling in the sun or leaping with abandon into the velvety Adriatic. Cape Kamenjak south of Pula embraces a dizzying mixture of rockscapes, with numerous spots for cliff-diving or simply laying your towel on a gently sloping slab. Covered in Mediterranean maquis, the whole peninsula is a protected nature park: visitors pay a symbolic fee to enter the area and park their car a short walk from the main shoreline spots.

VIŠNjAN Just northeast of Poreč the pretty town of Višnjan has become something of a global watchword for stargazing, thanks to the world-famous observatory built here in 1976. (A new building 2.5k out of town was opened in 2009 in order to escape light pollution.) led by teacher and amateur astronomer Korado Korlević, the observatory has conducted research resulting in the discovery of over 1000 minor planets, as well as organizing science camps for kids and adults. the new observatory is open to visitors in July and August and the site is extremely photogenic at all times of year, exuding tangible, galactical mystique.

MouNT učKA Right on the border between istria and the neighbouring county of Primorsko-Goranska, the mountain ridge of učka is an enduringly popular target for hikers. the 1394m peak of Vojak offers absolutely stupendous views of both the istrian interior and the Bay of Kvarner which stretches out to the south. Just east of the summit, at Poklon, a brand-new Visitors’ Centre will offer tourists a multimedia display detailing the flora, fauna and geology of the učka nature Park, as well as information on how to explore.

pAZIN istria is a land of many literary associations but by far the most tantalizing is the Jules Verne 1885 adventure Mathias sandorf, in which the eponymous hero escapes from Pazin Castle by floating through an underground river en route to the Adriatic sea. somewhat disappointingly, Verne never set foot in Pazin and researched his story by reading contemporary travelogues and writing to Pazin’s mayor. however the locations referred to in the book are very much still here, and are if anything more amazing in real life than in the Frenchman’s fertile imagination. the town (istria’s administrative capital) is grouped around the so-called Pazin Gorge, a rocky defile fed by the River Fojba which emerges from a limestone cliff – the underground river of Verne’ story. A scenic trail winds down into the gorge from the town centre, and there’s a hair-raising zip-line running across the gorge for those who fancy a sandorf-style dose of adventure. hovering above the Gorge from its cliff-top perch, Pazin Castle looks every bit the prison-fortress from which escape is impossible – although today’s visitors are free to walk in and out the main gateway. the castle museum provides an atmospheric home to an outstanding collection devoted to istrian history and folklore.

Trsat, Photo by Rijeka Tourist Board Archives

Delta, Photo by Igor Crnković

Rijeka, Photo by Rijeka Tourist Board Archives

rijeka aFTer rijeka 2020

in Your Pocket looks at how the coastal city will fare in the aftermath of its stint as european Capital of Culture

it was supposed to be Rijeka’s biggest ever party. And when it opened early last year, it really looked as if the rest of europe was going to sit up and take notice. sadly, the onset of covid-19 took the shine off Rijeka’s reign as European Capital of Culture, which began so explosively with a night of outdoor music and spectacle on February 1 2020.

the pandemic played havoc with a painstakingly-prepared schedule of cultural happenings, and although the organizers worked wonders in securing a summer of sustainable exhibitions and outdoor events, many international guests could not travel, the influx of tourist was less than expected, and the global media were preoccupied with events elsewhere. Despite the raucous fun of the opening day, Rijeka’s year in the international limelight was cruelly taken away. taking stock of things in early 2021, however, it is clear that the whole 2020 project has exerted an enormous impact on the city, changing the long-term face of Rijeka for locals and visitors alike. the Capital of Culture enterprise inspired a host of transformational projects. Most important of these was the redevelopment of the Benčić factory complex into a post-industrial cultural quarter which promises to provide citizens with a brand new artsand-lifestyle focus.

The Benčić complex’s nineteenth-century factory halls have been either lovingly refurbished or creatively bashed into shape to make room for the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, a new municipal library, and a new and innovative Children’s House that offers community facilities to parents and their offspring. Most importantly, the Benčić complex’s Baroque administrative building (called the “sugar Palace” in recognition of the factory’s initial role as a sugar refinery) was assiduously restored and proudly reopened as the new seat of the Rijeka City Museum (Muzej grada Rijeke; www.muzej-rijeka.hr). offering a fascinating narrative that takes in Rijeka’s industrial past, political highs-and-lows and punk-rock heritage, the City Museum’s permanent exhibition offers visitors an all-embracing history of the city that was not available before for the simple reason that the museum did not have an adequate building in which to display it. Beautifully presented, featuring lots of artefacts that had previously spent years in storage, and accompanied by a fluent and flowing set of english-language explanations, it’s an essential museum not just for those interested in the history of Rijeka but also that of Croatia as a whole.

tucked in behind the city museum is the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art (Muzej moderne i suvremene umjetnosti or MMsu; mmsu.hr), this time occupying a nineteenth-century factory floor which has preserved a lot of its original wood and ironwork. it’s the perfect post-industrial space in which to show off what is arguably the richest collection of contemporary Croatian art outside Zagreb, and once again points up the city’s historic role as a brash and unapologetic herald of the global avant-garde. the museum’s revolving programme of temporary exhibitions brings together some of the most ambitious artists in the region.

however it is the so-called Children’s’ House (Dječja Kuća; www.djecjakuca.hr) that arguably represents the most innovative part of the whole Benčić transformation. opened in March 2021, in one of the former factory buildings, it includes the children’s section of the municipal library, areas where educational workshops and play can be organized, an auditorium for puppet shows and children’s theatre, and a full programme of events, festivals and language classes. it also includes an indoor play area where parents can take a breather while watching children lark about in a secure environment. By integrating all the facilities and services that a city’s young population needs, the Children’s house is an ambitious undertaking that can serve as a model for similar institutions elsewhere. With a playful approach to interior design and furnishings, the house also serves as a thrilling example of what today’s Croatian designers can do.

Another key plank of the Capital of Culture programme was the restoration of the Galeb (“seagull”), former yacht of Yugoslav strongman Josip Broz tito and future site of a floating museum. Built for the italian navy in Genoa in 1938 when it went under the name of Ramb iii, it was salvaged by the Yugoslav navy after being sunk in Rijeka harbour by the Allies in 1944. Reconstructed as a training ship, it became President tito’s official yacht in 1952 and was kitted out like a floating luxury hotel. tito sailed to london aboard the Galeb in 1953; it subsequently served not just for tito’s trips abroad but also as an ideal craft in which to host visiting heads of state – especially those of the non-Aligned Movement for which the good ship Galeb became something of a symbol. Fascinating both as a state yacht and as a place of political significance (just think of the celebrities and world leaders who once walked the decks), it’s the perfect place for a museum that brings the various threads of Croatia’s past together. needless to say the project is running behind schedule (the onset of covid-19 removed the need to put it on show so quickly), however it promises to be one of the most significant additions to the city to have come about in consequence of the 2020 project.

one blockbuster exhibition postponed from last year and now to be shown over the summer of 2021 is Unknown Klimt – Love, Death and Ecstasy, a look at the early years of the iconic Viennese painter of the Art-nouveau epoch. one of Gustav Klimt’s early works was a trio of ceiling paintings executed for Rijeka’s theatre (now the Croatian national theatre in Rijeka) in 1888. these recently-restored paintings will form the centerpiece of a show which reveals a great deal about Klimt’s formative years, a period when he was still searching for his own style. Also on display will be rarely seen works by Klimt’s brother ernst, and their colleague Franz Matsch.

Proof of Rijeka’s continuing cultural ambition will come with Fly off into the ether or stay on the earth, a retrospective devoted to the sculptor Ivan Kožarić (who died last year aged 99) which opens at the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art on April 23. Kožarić was the author of haystack, a self-explanatory installation placed on the streets of Rijeka immediately before the official opening of Rijeka 2020. Kozarić’s haystack was notoriously set alight by a disgruntled member of the public, and it is somehow fitting that the work of this artist should serve as a symbol of Rijeka’s robust determination to see things through.

rijeka

Rijeka, exposed to the wide world for so many years now, is cosmopolitan in outlook and young in spirit - you can feel it as you walk along the elegant Korzo, get to know the history of the city, the forward-looking people and their culture. And it’s capital of Kvarner, which truly has so much to discover. travel west, and see how the lush opatija Riviera, dotted with fairytale villas reminds you of the italian lakelands. Penetrate into the hinterland or head south along the coast road and see a chain of forts, the legacy of the local nobles. Discover the charms of the islands – each one so different, but all surrounded by sparkling sea and a climate that returns to you the life that the hectic pace we live by robs us of day by day.

rijeka Top sighTs

sT VITus CATHEDrAl Although there has been a church dedicated to the patron saint and protector of Rijeka since the Middle Ages the Cathedral as we see it today was founded in 1638 by the Jesuits, who were once an influential force in the europeanisation of Rijeka under the hapsburgs. it’s a rotunda, rather unusual in this part of europe, with elements of baroque and gothic, including fine baroque statuary inside. A gallery was built in the 18th century, apparently to insulate devout novice monks from the allure of girls in the congregation. there is also some unusual stained glass work, including an image of st Vitus, and a gothic crucifix. legend has it that a certain Petar lončarić was playing cards outside the church, and in a fit of pique at losing, threw a stone at the crucifix. to the amazement of onlookers, the figure of Christ started bleeding. the ground opened and swallowed up the blasphemous Mr lončarić, leaving just his arm waving gruesomely. it was cut off and burned in public. the cathedral has a separate belltower which once gave access from the gallery to a huge Jesuit college and seminary, which sadly are no more. By the main entrance you can see a cannonball embedded in the wall and a latin inscription referring to the napoleonic wars which translates as “this fruit was sent to us by england when it wanted to oust the Gauls from here”. st Vitus’ was promoted to Cathedral status in 1925.

TrsAT Perched on a hill overlooking the harbour area and keeping watch over the hinterland is the fortress trsat, which has stood guard over the city since illyrian times. trsat is the site of the first settlement of Rijeka, inhabited since prehistoric times. it’s one of the best known symbols of the city. You may also notice from a distance the elegant spire of a white church. trsat is a complex comprising the fortress and church, a Franciscan monastery, a smaller church, a sports hall and exhibition centre (where many concerts are held), landscaped park gardens and a charming huddle of houses. it’s a serene place to linger over a coffee, and the ecclesiastical heart of Rijeka. the church, st Mary of trsat, has been a shrine to the Virgin Mary and a place of pilgrimage for hundreds of years. the story goes that when, at the end of the 13th century, the Crusaders were taking Mary’s house from nazareth to loretto, where they would set it up as a pilgrim shrine, they stopped and rested at trsat. A church was then built on the site by the Frankopans (who played a large role in the entire development of trsat), which became a place of pilgrimage. the church contains a great number of renowned religious paintings and a 14th century icon of our lady, reputed to be miraculous. it was presented to Croatian pilgrims in loretto, and is venerated to this day. For more on the church and its sacral art collection see below. the fort has had many facelifts over the centuries, notably by local influential families, the Frankopans of Krk, the Captains of Bakar and the hapsburgs. the last and most

romantic alterations were made by irish-born Count laval nugent, a commander of the Austro-hungarian empire, who eventually made his home here and established a museum. sadly, the museum no longer exists. there are attractive underground spaces (one of which once housed prison cells) which are now used as exhibition spaces, and apparently a secret passageway leads to the Rječina river. the Grecian style nugent family mausoleum is also now a gallery space. the fort is well worth visiting for its architectural beauty and the stunning views over Rijeka and the Kvarner Gulf. it’s part of a chain of defences across the mountains that protected the Roman empire from barbarian invasion. You can reach trsat using the 16th century stairs of Captain Petar Kružić – the traditional route for pilgrims. Before you start complaining, pilgrims often climb them on their knees as a mark of devotion. But if it’s hot or you’re feeling parky, you can also reach trsat by road from the east of the centre, or take bus no.2.

THE Corso the “Corso” is Rijeka’s main pedestrian street. lined by elegant period buildings, shops and cafés, interspersed with refreshing fountains, this is where the locals gather by day to catch up on the latest, and to enjoy a promenade. Just behind the seafront, Korzo is the very heart of the town, and there’s no way you should miss a stroll, an espresso and a spot of peoplewatching here.

Photo by Rijeka Tourist Board Archives

opaTija

With its elegant architecture, manicured parks and promenades, it’s easy to see why opatija is often called the Croatian nice. opatija grew into a favoured resort during the Austro-hungarian empire, and this history is evident in the wonderful old hotels and villas that line the shore. the climate here is mild throughout the year, and the coast is framed by a riot of vegetation where forested slopes plunge into the sea. You can visit at any time of the year and take the air on the 12 km coastal path or the hillside trails, then choose between hotel spas or treatments in the Thalassotherapy clinic. in the parks, among the wonderful planting you’ll spot camellias, the symbol of the opatija Riviera. look out for the opatija Camellia cake, the perfect treat for those back home. Be sure to visit Villa Angiolina where you’ll find the Museum of tourism: opatija was Croatia’s first tourist resort. You can drink coffee on the terrace of hotel Kvarner, the oldest hotel, and stroll along the Croatian street of Fame celebrating the achievements of people who have contributed to Croatia’s standing on the world stage. opatija has many public sculptures: famous folk in some way connected with the town (novelist Miroslav Krleža, dancer isadora Duncan, and violinist and composer Jan Kubelik); and local motifs like the opatija Boatman and the Girl with the Seagull.

Trips To gorski koTar

ZElENI VIr I VrAžjI prolAZ the Zeleni vir area is known for its unusual geological formations. the name means “Green Pool”, and refers to the emerald pool formed by a little waterfall gushing from an opening high up in a rock face. the second attraction in this area is Vražji prolaz – or the Devil’s Pass. this is an 800m long canyon carved out of the rock by a wild, foaming stream. You can walk along galleries and bridges the whole length of the canyon, and at the end you’ll come to a cave, “Muževa hiša”, with stalagmites, stalactites and a small underground lake. Zeleni vir is near the little town of skrad, just off the A6 motorway (Zagreb direction).

Np rIsNjAK Glowering above the city of Rijeka, in the densely forested Gorski Kotar region, are the primeval forests, mountain meadows and karst formed peaks of Risnjak national Park. this range of mountains, from which can be viewed the Julian Alps and the Adriatic is by far the wildest and most untouched in the country – mostly thanks to the somewhat inhospitable climate; it has an average temperature of 12.60 in July. the park is a haven for deer, bears, wildcats and lynx (ris) – from which the park takes its name. Wolves and wild boar also put in an occasional appearance. the information office for the park is in Crni Lug, a small village that perches at 724m above sea-level (no mean feat with the sea around 25km away) and 12km from Delnice – the main regional town. From the villages of Razloge or Kupari, small winding paths can be followed up to the source of the Kupa river. From the jagged karst the water wells up into a lake and then tumbles downwards through the ‘valley of the butterflies’. np-risnjak.hr

KAMAčNIK CANyoN Kamačnik is a river and a canyon in Gorski kotar region, in the Dinaric Alps. the river is only 3 km long, after which it discharges into a much larger Dobra river. the geomorphological features of karst in the area, along with the well-preserved watercourse and the surrounding flora and fauna make the Kamačnik canyon ecologically extremely important. A walking trail with wooden bridges and galleries runs along the crystal-clear river through a rich vegetation and wild life. there is a newly set educational-didactic trail, which explains the natural features of the protected area. You will also come across the Pan Trail, a series of five sound installations that will complement the unique experience of the pristine nature in the canyon. Gong, Bear’s marimba, Doormouse’s bells, Deer’s horn and Brook organ are set along the track for you to test your music skills and release an inner artist within. the path is very diverse, so no need to rush. take enough time to inhale the fresh air, clear the mind and let your eyes fill up with greenness. At the end of the path, you will reach the spring of Kamačnik. it is at least 95 meters deep which makes it one of the deepest water springs in Croatia. here, next to the spring, soak your feet in the cold stream water, it will serve as a perfect refreshment after the hike. on return, stop at the Kamačnik Bistro which offers homemade dishes in a beautiful setting above the river estuary.

golubINjAK pArK - ForEsT A perfect place for spending a day in nature with family and friends. Golubinjak is located near the main road so it is easy to find and surprisingly peaceful despite the proximity of the highway. Beautiful large meadow at the entrance to the Park-forest, surrounded by tall trees that rise high above the white cliffs will simply take your breath away. in 1955 the 51 hectare of Golubinjak area was declared a protected park-forest. the park-forests in this area emerged on the karst relief. Because of this, they feature not only forest vegetation, but also a variety of karst phenomena. Golubinjak Park-Forest with its caves, rocks, sinkholes, stone bridges and other interesting formations, is a typical example. there is a walking trail through the forest which will take you to the Dove Cave and the Ice Cave whose refreshing temperatures definitely justify its name. At the beginning of the trail, you will come across the Queen of the Forest – the largest fir tree of Gorski kotar which is over 200 years old, with the height reaching 37 m which truly deserves the crown. At the entrance to the park there is a multipurpose grassplayground which is ideal for the outdoor games. You can also rent out a bbq area and have a fun day in the wild. those who are not in the mood to do their own grilling may opt for specialties of the Gorski kotar cuisine served at the Park’s catering facility.

MusHrooM pArADIsE A variety of mushrooms can be found in Gorski kotar almost all year round, except in winter. some of the most sought after are morels, porcini mushrooms, milk caps, parasol mushrooms and chantarelles. there are many different mushroom species in Gorski kotar, but two definitely hold the royal title among the shroom hunters. if you have a chance, find an experienced mushroom hunter, grab a basket and set off to an exciting mushroom adventure. here is what you need to look for. Porcini Porcinis are the biggest stars on the Croatian mushroom market. Gorski kotar area is particularly known for some of the best Croatian porcinis. Many people here dry them as it intensifies its meaty flavor and mushrooms preserved this way can be served all year round. Porcinis are great when paired with meat and also delicious in soups and omelettes. Chantarelles Chantarelles are known for its delicate taste and rich, exotic aroma. these wild mushrooms grow in the deep treeshadows of Gorski kotar mostly in autumn. they have a nutritional value that will blow you away and are a great source of iron, vitamin D and potassium. Chantarelles are perfect in risotto, or briefly sauteed with onions and served with toasted bread. if you don’t feel like going mushroom hunting, Gorski kotar offers a handful of restaurants with delicious wild mushroom dishes some of which are served seasonally.

Photos by Kvarner Tourist Board Archives

Photo by Simon Pallard

inside Tips

THE brIjuNI: A TrEAsury oF CulTurE, HIsTory, AND bEAuTy the Brijuni, consisting of 14 islands, is the only national park in istria. owing to its long-time residential status, the islands are excellently preserved and the Brijuni represent a treasury of cultural and historical heritage, but also flora and fauna. if you are not staying in one of the hotels on the Brijuni, you can visit the islands by ship from Fažana, sailing all day, and the ticket includes the boat ride and a tour of the Brijuni by train. on Great Brijun, you can see a Roman villa from the 1st century B.C., traces of dinosaurs, old Roman Castrum, as well as enjoy the view of numerous animals living freely on the island. there are a large number of does and deer, but there is also an elephant, zebras, camels, numerous birds, etc… there is a photograph exhibition “Josip Broz tito on the Brijuni” at the Museum on Great Brijun, covering the time since his first arrival in 1947 until the last day of his stay August 29, 1979. A long line of flags marks the 60 countries of the world, from which Presidents and Prime Ministers visited these islands. A monument laid in the memory of liberating the islands from malaria, dedicated to Robert Koch, the man who found the infective agent of tuberculosis and cholera and the winner of the nobel Prize award, was made in 1905, in one of the quarries of the Brijuni. np-brijuni.hr

sCulpTurE pArK IN VrsAr Art lovers may visit the unique sculpture Park, left as permanent legacy to Vrsar by the famous artist Dušan Džamonja. the park is located in Funtana. infovrsar.com

THE pulA FIlM FEsTIVAl owing to film shows in the historical spaces of the Kaštel and the antique Arena, the Film Festival in Pula is considered as one of the world attractive film festivals in the open. there are few festivals in the world that may brag with experiencing a film show in an area filled with centuries-old history. the Amphitheatre in Pula, the largest and well-preserved monument of antique construction in Croatia, was built in the middle of the 1st century B.C. pulafilmfestival.hr Pula, July 17 – July 25

THE pIT bArEDINE the most important speleological object in istria, the pit Baredine is only 6 kilometres away from Poreč and can be explored readily to a depth of 60 metres. it is rich with stalactites and stalagmites, dripstone posts, underground halls, and the presence of underground water enabled the survival of Proteus anguinus and other cave fauna. baredine.com

lAbIN AND rAŠA the old city on the hill – Labin, was once the centre of mining in istria, but with the closing of the mines, its significance was reduced, so today it is recognised as a city of artists, who revived this charming urbane with their ateliers and general presence. Raša, another mining city near Rabac, was built within a basin and is considered as a model of fascist urbanism, because it was built entirely in the 1930s.

CAsANoVA AND KoVErsADA Vrsar is a small but extremely charming city abundant in narrow winding alleys and small shops, which are mostly the same as they were in the past when the famous italian writer, adventurer, seducer and gourmet Giacomo Casanova came here and was thrilled with it. today Vrsar is famous for the largest nudist camp in this part of europe – Koversada.

THE EupHrAsIAN bAsIlICA IN porEč this world famous historical monument of culture was built in the middle of the 6th century, at the time of the bishop euphrasius, and it consists of an atrium, a baptistery, the bishop’s palace, mosaics and the remains of sacral objects from earlier periods, the 3rd and the 4th centuries. one can even climb the bell tower with its view of the city and its surroundings. the entire old city centre is a living monument of the rich history of Poreč.

Photo by Kvarner Tourist Board Archives

Photo by Selce Tourist Board Archives Photo by Dobrinj Tourist Board Archives

Lubenice, Photo by Renata Dossi

a hinT oF blue

A pHoTogrApHIC jourNEy

When the islands call! Feel the blue sea, the blue sky, the blue horizons …

Take a moment and go with us through this photographic journey to the corners of Croatia’s islands.

Photo by I.Trojanović, Orebić Tourist Board Archives

Adventures

the incredible range of landscapes in Croatia seems made for adventures, with hiking, cycling, rafting and scuba-diving among the most popular of a growing range of activities. of course the biggest adventure of all in this amazing country is to travel: keep your eyes wide open and let the scenery do the work.

FanTasTic journeYs

HIgHWAy To HEAVEN: CroATIA’s CoAsTAl MAgIsTrAlA the main road along the Croatian coast has always been considered one of europe’s great journeys. Winding its way tortuously along the heavily indented, mountain-fringed shore, the single-lane highway known as the Magistrala (literally ‘main road’ although the Croatian original sounds much more romantic) offers over 500km of astounding views, complex history and - not to be forgotten – an outstanding range of food to be eaten along the way.

in many ways Croatia is a country made for road trips. Whichever way you cross the country, you’ll be moving through a sequence of staggering, often very different landscapes. travelling from Zagreb to the coast, regardless of whether you take the A1 motorway or one of the many minor-road alternatives, involves an inspirational trip across rolling hills, dense forests, karst plateaus and Mediterranean maquis.

however it is the coast itself that provides most in terms of sheer wonder, with stark grey-brown mountains overlooking the verdant coastal strip and its scattering of islands. some of these islands are lush and green, others are as otherworldly as moon-rocks dropped randomly in the sea. in the olden days travellers could undertake this journey via a costal ferry that ran from Rijeka to Dubrovnik, stopping off at all ports inbetween. sadly this service is not currently in operation; the Magistrala, however, offers a driveable, stunning alternative.

it wasn’t until the 1960s that a modern asphalt road serving the whole coast came into being. Before then, drivers had to contend with gravel roads and clouds of dust, or simply take the ferry instead. indeed it wasn’t until the completion of the Magistrala that tourism in the southern parts of Dalmatia could fully blossom. the Magistrala quickly became so busy that it became a by-word for bad traffic, with columns of vehicles winding their way laboriously along a shore that drivers were too bad-tempered to enjoy.

in recent years the pressure has been taken off the coastal route with the extension of the Croatian motorway network – it is faster to get to Dubrovnik by zooming down the highway slightly inland rather than following the long and winding road that is the Magistrala. no longer the Adriatic’s main traffic artery, the Magistrala has gone back to being a great ride, an exhilarating experience that you will want to savour rather than rushing, foot pressed on the pedal, to your final destination. And spectacular it certainly is. indeed it’s one of the most dramatic road trips in Europe, and will never fail to take your breath away, however many times you might have done it. the fact that you will be passing many of the Adriatic’s most popular holiday resorts ensures that there is plenty of accommodation along the way. A profusion of shoreline campsites, especially in some of the smaller places along the road, is an important part of the route’s charm.

Photo by Dubrovnik Neretva County Archives

Photo by Hrvoje Serda

Photo by Konavle Touurist Board Archives

the route gets interesting as soon as you leave Rijeka, curving its way around deep sea inlets before winding along the foot of the mountains that hover above the coast. indeed winding along below mountains becomes something of a leitmotif for the whole trip. Progress is never going to be a quick on a road like this. Get stuck behind a truck or a caravan and you could be waiting quite a long time before you get to a stretch of road suitable for overtaking. Providing you take it easy and enjoy the views, however, this is not a journey you are going to tire of in a hurry.

things get really exciting after the cute port of Senj, with the rocky heights of the Velebit range glowering over the coast, and the road zipping its way between outcrops and ravines. over on the seaward side of the road you will see the bare ochre flanks of the islands of Krk, then Pag. once densely forested, these islands were denuded of trees in order to feed the shipyards of Venice, hence their stark beauty today.

By the time you get to Zadar, with its multi-layered Roman, medieval Croatian and Venetian heritage, you begin to appreciate that the Magistrala offers an educative voyage through the centuries as well as a mosaic of maritime landscapes. Also home to innovative sound-and-light installations such as the sea organ and the Greeting to the sun Zadar offers a crash course in where the Croatian Adriatic is going in the future as well as where it has been in the past. Further south, the history lesson goes on: there is Šibenik, with its Renaissance cathedral and Venetian fortresses; the Roman city of salona at Solin; and Split, home to Roman-emperor Diocletian’s Palace.

south of split, the road passes beneath the intimidating grey crags of the Biokovo range, another imposing mountain ridge that stretches for several kilometres along the coast. set below Biokovo’s western shoulder is Omiš, home to famously fine shingle beaches and starting point for boat trips up the Cetina river, a lush reedy wonderland flanked by tortured rocks. south of omiš, the road runs along the famed pebble beaches of the Makarska Riviera, any one of which would serve as a quick-dip journey-breaker. once beyond the Makarska Riviera the Magistrala crosses the neretva delta, whose bright green patchwork of fruit orchards and irrigation canals comes as something of a shock after all those stark coastal mountains.

it would be a shame to speed through Dalmatia without sampling the local idea of road-trip food. You will pass roadside restaurants roasting lambs over spits, hawkers selling cheeses and honeys, and in the Neretva delta region, stalls selling the mandarins for which the region is famed.

Many travellers will end their journey at Dubrovnik, the perfectly-proportioned Medieval-Baroque city encased within stout sea-splashed walls. however there are abundant reasons to carry on southeastwards towards the Montenegrin border, with the Magistrala carving its way across an inland plain characterized by stone-built villages and fertile green fields. For a final breather consider a side-trip to the seaside village of Molunat, home to a brace of fine pebble beaches and wonderful views of the open sea. lulled by the sight of crystal clear waters and the sound of crickets in the trees, it’s the perfect place to reflect on how far you have come.

Photo by Roberto Pavić Ondić

Lika

the river valleys, plateaus and mountains of the lika region contain some of the most starkly beautiful terrain that Croatia has to offer. the world-famous Plitvice lakes are a wonderland of frothing water and mystic forest; elsewhere, the Velebit mountain range offers exhilarating hiking terrain.