Central Croatia zagreb
Zagreb in Transition
The old heart of Zagreb, Gornji grad, is a charming mix of historic buildings, churches and baroque palaces in the peaceful surrounding with almost no traffic. Don’t miss the landmark of the city - the colourful roof of St Mark’s Church framed by the Parliament and the Government buildings. Mind the midday cannon blast from the Lotrščak tower, a tradition that stretches back for over a century. A medieval Stone Gate, today a pilgrimage place, tells us a story of the raging fire and the Gate’s miraculous survival in the 18th century. It’s a short walk from here to the neighbouring hill of Kaptol and the soaring towers of the Zagreb Cathedral, and then onto Dolac farmers market with fresh produce from the surrounding villages. Nicknamed “the belly of Zagreb” this lively open-air market is dotted with red umbrellas protecting its vendors from the sun and rain all year round. Stroll down the steps and you’re on Trg bana Jelačića, Zagreb’s central square. For shopping, continue down Ilica street, a busy shopping mecca with artisan workshops and boutiques. Take a coffee break on Tkalčićeva street, also known as a street of cafes. Croatians are very big on coffee culture and Tkalčićeva street, lined up with outdoor terraces on both sides, is the perfect example. Downtown area boasts a Green Horseshoe – a line of eight landscaped parks-squares in the centre of Zagreb. Zrinjevac Park, being one of them, is flanked by the elegant buildings and 150-years old plane trees. The city’s largest park is Maksimir which is a 20 min tram ride from the Central square. Here you can enjoy many hiking paths and promenades, boat rides and a special attraction – a City Zoo. Top your city break with a tasty meal at one of city’s numerous restaurants varying from hearty continental to light Mediterranean dishes.
It has been something of an eventful year in the Croatian capital, what with pandemic lockdowns, earthquakes, and much talk about what the future holds for a changing city. Some things have changed in Zagreb, some things have kept on going: here are our reflections on five contemporary phenomena affecting the face of the city.
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Outdoor exhibitions Museum and gallery closures due to Covid-19 restrictions and earthquake damage meant that more art took place on the streets than behind closed doors. There has also been a renewed focus on outdoor exhibitions in general, and the way in which the city itself can function as a cultural space. Initiatives such as Street Triptych, which invites street artists to cover vacant spaces in the city centre, have signalled a new appreciation of street murals and the people who paint them. Among key cultural institutions, the Art Pavilion has responded to the need for post-earthquake repairs by organizing sculpture exhibitions outside the gallery. From April 2021 exhibitions have been taking place on the café-lined Cvijetni trg, right in the middle of the city-centre pedestrian precinct, thanks to solar-powered panels that are able to display work in a way that is far better than simply putting posters on open-air display boards. With initial exhibitions devoted to landscapes and cultures of particular regions or countries, it’s almost like an outdoor illustrated encyclopedia: a great place to enjoy great photography and learn something at the same time. Parks are the new promenades Zagrebians have always been fond of parklife – and there’s no doubt that the events of the last year have made the city’s green spaces more important. Not only were they a place to escape the physical restrictions of lockdowns or fears of tremors – they were also the perfect places in which to soothe way the stress of being an urban dweller in an age when urban life suddenly became more complicated. Maksimir, the vast expanse of landscaped lawns, lakes and woodland 3km east of the centre, is now more popular than ever. The same can be said of Bundek, the lakeside park south of the river; the walking and cycling tracks along the Sava river embankment; or the slopes of Medvednica, the mountain that looms above the city to the north. Indeed if someone without prior knowledge of Zagreb was to start writing a guidebook to the city from scratch in 2021, they would probably start with the parks rather than the museums and the churches; it’s in the parks that the life and soul of the city is to be found. May - November 2021
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